Must See
12
Types of wood were
used to make and
repair the Ancient
Galilee Boat.
Benedictines, is an austere
sanctuary built in 1982 on
the ruins (and mosaics) of
a Byzantine-era church. A
few hundred metres to the
southeast is the lakeshore
Church of the Primacy of The remains of the Displays surrounding the
St Peter, built in 1933. Run 1st-century AD vessel explain how the
by Franciscans, it was also Ancient Galilee Boat ancient, waterlogged wood –
constructed on the site of described by one observer as
a former Byzantine church. having the consistency of a
this Roman-era boat has coffee-soaked biscuit – was
been radiocarbon dated to carefully preserved before
sometime between 50 BC and it was placed on permanent
3 " AD 70 so it may very well have display in 2000.
Ancient Galilee Boat plied the waters of the Sea of
Galilee in the time of Jesus.
⌂ Yigal Alon Center,
Kibbutz Ginosar # 8am– Built – and later repaired – THE GALILEE IN
JEWISH HISTORY
5pm daily (to 4pm Fri) using a variety of different
∑ yigal-allon-centre.org.il types of wood, the so-called In the Hebrew Bible,
“Jesus Boat” was made with the Galilee (Al-Jalīl
Discovered in 1986 on the mortice and tenon joints in Arabic) is first men-
bottom of the Sea of Galilee, and had a shallow draft tioned by name in
encased in protective mud, to enable inshore fishing. Joshua 20: 7. In the
generations following
King Solomon, the
0 km 4 N region was home to
Korazim the Kingdom of Israel
National Park 0 miles 4
(Northern Kingdom),
Korazim which was ultimately
wiped off the map by
Mount of the
Beatitudes Capernaum Ma’ale the Assyrians around
Tabgha Gamla 720 BC. By the Second
Temple period, however,
Ramot Galilean Jewish life was
Ginosar Ancient Galilee Boat flourishing. Following
the destruction of the
Migdal Kursi Temple and the Bar
Magdala National Park
Sea of Kochba Revolt in the
Galilee 1st and 2nd centuries
AD respectively, the
Galilee became the
Tiberias Bne
Ein Gev Yehuda centre of Jewish schol-
arship and renewal.
Dozens of synagogues
from the Byzantine
Kfar period, some adorned
Haruv
Poriya with lovely mosaics,
Ha-on' have been found
Kinneret around the region.
Yardenit Deganya
Baptism Site Alef
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4 GREAT VIEW there are surviving houses
from the period, as well as a
Mount of the Sea Views church, built over the ruins of
Beatitudes For an awe-inspiring what is said to have been
⌂ Off Route 90 § (04) 671 view of the Sea of Simon Peter’s house. There
1223 # 8–11:45am & Galilee, with flowers are also the remains of a
2–4:45pm and an Italianate chapel synagogue that has been
in the foreground and dated to the 4th century AD.
Jesus’s Sermon on the Mount
intensely blue water
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee is believed to have been 5 " ⌂ Route 8277 # 8am–5pm
in the distance below,
(Matthew 5: 7), source of the
head to the Mount of
Lord’s Prayer and the eight
6 "
the Beatitudes.
Beatitudes (“Blessed are…”),
Korazim National Park
delivered at this hillside site,
3.5 km (2 miles) north of
Sat–Thu, 8am–4pm Fri
Tabgha. A Byzantine church
(closes 1 hr earlier in
Capernaum
was constructed here in the
winter) ∑ parks.org.il
4th century, but today’s
⌂ Route 87 § (04) 672
According to Matthew 11: 20–
Italian-style Franciscan chapel
1059 # 8am–4:30pm daily
dates from the late 1930s.
24, Jesus was so unhappy with
Capernaum, on the northern
Built with financial support
the people of Korazim (and
with their counterparts in
from Mussolini, it boasts
shoreline of the Sea of Galilee,
Bethsaida and Capernaum)
charming gardens with
was an important Roman
town on the trade route
excellent views.
between Damascus and
that he cursed them. These
Egypt. It was also a focal
days, the excavated ruins
of the once-wealthy hillside
points of Christ’s teachings in
Galilee, and was home to a for not changing their ways
town include a beautiful
number of his Disciples, synagogue constructed out
including Simon Peter. of local black basalt around
In Capernaum’s AD 400. It is decorated with a
fascinating archae- mix of Jewish and Hellenistic
ological precinct, designs, including plants,
geometric shapes, animals
and even human forms.
7 "
Kursi National Park
⌂ Route 92 # 8am–5pm
Sat–Thu, 8am–4pm Fri
(closes 1 hr earlier in
winter) ∑ parks.org.il
Situated on the eastern shore
of the Sea of Galilee, Kursi
is believed to be where the
Miracle of the Swine (Matthew
8: 28-32) took place, in which
Jesus exor cised demons
by casting them into a herd
of pigs. Excavations have
uncovered a mosaic-adorned
church and an extensive
Byzantine monastery complex
from the mid-5th century AD.
Church of the Beatitudes,
decorated with colourful
floor mosaics (inset)
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Must See
Christians undergoing a
baptism ceremony at the
Yardenit Baptismal Site
Both were destroyed by the
invading Sassanians (Persians) THE FIRST KIBBUTZ: DEGANIA ALEF
in 614 and again by the great In 1910, a group of Zionist pioneers arrived in the
earthquake of 749. southwest corner of the Sea of Galilee to farm land that
had been purchased five years earlier. They were deeply
committed socialists and sought to build a cooperative
8 agricultural community based on socialist principles –
Yardenit Baptism Site although some of the traditional hallmarks of kibbutz life,
such as the community dining hall and “children’s houses”,
⌂ Kibbutz Kinneret were a pragmatic response to practical challenges rather
# 8am–5pm or 6pm Sat–Thu than an outgrowth of ideology. The early kibbutzniks
(to 4pm Fri) ∑ yardenit.com believed in equality between men and women, but
women nonetheless often ended up in the kitchen.
No one knows exactly where
Jesus was baptized, but it
could have been at Yardenit,
situated about 700 m (2,300 ft)
from where the Jordan River
flows out of the Sea of Galilee.
The hugely popular site has
facilities for baptism, including
changing rooms (US$2), as
well as a restaurant and a
shop selling Christian sou
venirs. If you don’t have the
required white baptismal
gown (under which you must
wear a bathing suit), you can
rent or purchase one. Around
the site, Mark 1: 911 appears
on Armenian tile panels in
over 100 languages.
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6 "
BEIT SHE’AN
C2 ⌂ Beit She’an @ From Tiberiasa # 8am–5pm Sat–Thu,
8am–4pm Fri (closes 1 hour earlier in winter) ∑ parks.org.il
The best-preserved and most evocative Roman city in Israel,
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee First inhabited over 6,000 years ago, Beit Byzantine era, pagan structures were converted
Beit She’an is renowned for its colonnaded thoroughfares and
semicircular 7,000-seat theatre. Flattened by an earthquake
in 749, some of the stones still lie in a jumble right where they fell.
She’an became an Egyptian administrative
to Christian uses, though the city was also
home to Jews and Samaritans. From mid-
centre in the 15th century BC, a Canaanite
March to October, a multimedia pageant
town around the 12th century BC and then,
called She’an Nights is held after nightfall.
an Israelite city. But it was as a Hellenistic and
then Roman city known as Scythopolis that
the city reached its zenith. A member of the
Decapolis (a group of 10 Levantine city-states
dependent on Rome), it was endowed with
impressive public amenities, including temples,
bathhouses and public toilets. During the
Visitors examining the remains
of the public bathhouse
The remarkably well-preserved
ruins of this major Roman city
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Must See
The impressive Roman
amphitheatre, once used
for gladiatorial contests
HIDDEN GEM
Ancient Toilets
One of the more
unusual structures
at Beit She’an is the
multiseat public toilet.
It features 57 marble
seats, under which ran
an open sewer that
connected to the city’s A ruined colonnade lining one of the
drainage system. city’s ancient streets, which would
once have housed an array of shops
Did You Know?
Beit She’an was home
to between 30,000
and 40,000 Roman
citizens.
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EXPERIENCE MORE
7 "
Megiddo Did You Know?
! B2 ⌂ Route 66, 35 km “Armageddon” derives
The Biblical name
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee closes 1 hour earlier on Fri 8
(22 miles) SE of Haifa
§ (04) 659 0316 @ From
from “Har Megedon”,
Haifa & Tiberias # 8am–
or mountain
5pm daily (to 4pm winter);
of Megiddo.
This ancient town at the
head of the Jezreel Valley was
the scene of so many battles
that the Book of Revelation
Safed
in the New Testament says
that this is where the final
! C2 ⌂ 120 km (75 miles) NE
battle between Good and
from Tel Aviv @ n 100 Ha-
Evil will take place at the end
Palmach St; www.safed.co.il
of the world.
The settlement controlled
renowned Kabbalists and
the main communication
foremost centre of Kabbalah
routes between the East
scholars are buried in a Jewish
(Jewish mysticism) ever since
cemetery downhill from the
and the Mediterranean, and
Jews fleeing the Spanish
Inquisition found refuge here.
in the 3rd millennium BC it Safed (Tzfat) has been the of Kabbalah here. Many
Synagogue Quarter.
was already a fortified city. In One of Judaism’s “four holy Galleries selling ritual
1468 BC, its Canaanite fortress cities” (with Jerusalem, Tiberias objects and Jewishthemed
was destroyed by the troops and Hebron), it is home to art line Alkabetz Street and
of the Egyptian pharaoh several historic synagogues. its continuation, Beit Yosef
Thutmose III and it became an These include the Ashkenazi Ari Street (Yosef Caro Street).
Egyptian stronghold. Megiddo Synagogue, on the site where The Artists’ Quarter, an Arab
was subsequently conquered the famed Kabbalist Isaac Luria neighbourhood before 1948,
and again fortified, possibly (the Ari; 1534–72) is said to is home to many artists whose
by Solomon, and in the 8th have welcomed the Sabbath; studios can be visited.
century BC it came under and the Caro Synagogue, Above the centre of town,
Assyrian rule, after which it fell named for Joseph Caro (1488– remnants of the biggest
slowly into decline. Extensive 1575), who wrote the Shulchan Crusader fortress in the
excavation of the spectacular Aruch (the most important Middle East form part
mound (or “tel”) has revealed compendium of Jewish law), of Citadel Park, which is
20 successive settlements. to whom an angel is said particularly peaceful on
Visible remains include defen to have revealed the secrets Shabbat and Jewish holidays.
sive walls, a temple, a huge
grain silo and the foundations
of many buildings. On the
eastern side of the “tel” is an
old reservoir, with a tunnel
that visitors can walk through,
leading to a spring outside
the city wall.
In 2005, the site joined
UNESCO’s World Heritage
list, reflecting its historical
importance and powerful
influence on later civilizations.
One of the galleries
selling Jewish art in
the town of Safed
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The ruins of the Nimrod
Fortress, in a commanding
position on the Golan Heights
9 of Majdal Shams and the
mighty Nimrod Fortress, a
Golan Heights ridgetop citadel. It was built
by the Muslims in the 13th
! C2 ⌂ 135 km (85 miles) EAT
NE of Tel Aviv @ To Katsrin century to defend the road to
Damascus from the Crusaders.
n (04) 685 0208
Magdalena
The strategic Golan plateau Superior Galilean-style
was captured by Israel from 10 Arab cuisine in one of
Syria in the 1967 war. Except Israel’s most talked-
during the 1973 Yom Kippur Tiberias about restaurants.
War (p54), the area – which ! C2 ⌂ 110 km (70 ⌂ Migdal Junction,
was ann exed unilaterally by miles) NE of Tel Aviv Rte 90 # Noon–5pm &
Israel in 1981 – has since been @ n Archaeological 7–11pm daily
remarkably quiet. Garden, Rehov ha-Banim; ∑ magdalena.co.il
Streams that drain into the (04) 672 5666 ÒÒÒ
Jordan River offer great hiking
trails; some of the best are in On the Sea of Galilee’s western
the Yehudiya Nature Reserve. shore, Tiberias was founded Baladna
Family-friendly Banias Nature around AD 20. A major centre Excellent Galilean Arab
Reserve has water falls, rich of Jewish scholarship in the 2nd cuisine with vegan and
vegetation and a Roman-era and 3rd centuries AD, elements pork options, plus a
palace, while Gamla Nature of written Hebrew were devised good selection of beer.
Reserve houses the ruins of a here over a millennium ago. It ⌂ Jish § (54) 768 7773
hilltop Jewish village besieged has remained holy to Jews and # 3pm–2am Wed–Sat,
by the Romans. The area’s today, Jewish pilgrims come 4–11pm Tue & Sun
largest Israeli settlement, to visit the tombs of famous ÒÒÒ
Katzrin, offers accommodation, scholars such as the Rambam
supermarkets, restaurants, (Maimonides), Yohanan ben Mis’edet HaArazim
a brew-pub and wineries. It Zakai, Rabbi Meir Ba’al HaNess Informal place widely
is also home to the superb and, up the hill, Rabbi Akiva. known for delicious
Golan Archaeological Museum South of the centre, Hamat Lebanese cuisine.
and Ancient Katzrin Park, Tveriya National Park has a
where excavations have 4th-century synagogue with a ⌂ Just off Rte 89, Jish
# 10am–10pm daily
uncovered a Byzantine-era beautiful Zodiac wheel mosaic. ∑ 2eat.co.il/haarazim
Jewish village with an Christian pilgrims are drawn
impressive basalt synagogue. to Tiberias by St Peter’s Church ÒÒÒ
Further north, under the and the Monastery of the
towering slopes of Mount Apostles (Greek Orthodox).
Hermon, is the Druze town Both are on the lakefront.
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500 million
Birds migrate through
Israel and the Palestine from around the world. Trails, a its defenders in recognition of
Territories twice floating bridge and a lookout their great courage. Belvoir
a year. tower provide observation was destroyed by troops from
points to view birds, water Damascus in the 13th century.
buffaloes, fallow deer and
otters. The nearby Agamon
HaHula is a great place to see
flocks of cranes and storks. 13 "
11 "'= Beit Alpha
Hula Nature Reserve
! C2 ⌂ Off Route 71, 11 km
! C1 ⌂ Hula Valley, 12 " (7 miles) W of Beth Shean
Galilee Panhandle Belvoir Castle § (04) 653 2004 @ # 8am–
@ 541, 840 # 8am–5pm 5pm daily (to 4pm Fri); closes
daily (to 4pm Fri); closes ! C2 ⌂ Off Route 90, 27 km 1 hour earlier in winter
1 hour earlier in winter (17 miles) S of Tiberias
∑ parks.org.il § (04) 658 1766 @ To The remnants of this 6th
century synagogue were found
Beth Shean, then taxi
The wetlands of the Hula Valley # 8am–5pm daily (to 4pm by chance in 1928 by people
were drained in the 1950s to Fri); closes 1 hour earlier from the nearby HefziBah
fight malaria and create farm in winter kibbutz. The ruined walls give
land, resulting in unintended an idea of the original building,
ecological consequences. This ruined Crusader fortress but the main interest is the
These have been mitigated by offers incomparable views of magnificent mosaic floor.
the 1964 founding of this the Jordan Valley. Surrounded It depicts the Ark of the
nature reserve – Israel’s first – by two huge walls, it was built Covenant, with cherubs, lions
and, in more recent decades, by the Knights Hospitallers in and religious symbols, while
by swamp and lake restoration. 1168, and besieged many the central patterns adopt
Today, birds that are migrating times by Saladin. It capitulated Roman themes and imagery.
between Europe and Africa only in 1189 after a yearlong The lower part tells the story
have a safe spot to rest and siege, with the Muslim leader of Abraham and the sacrifice
feed, attracting birdwatchers sparing both the fortress and of his son Isaac.
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spy ring based here during
The Hula Nature Reserve, World War I. HaMeyasdim 16 "'=
Dan Nature Reserve
rich in birdlife and a magnet Street, lined with 19thcentury
for bird-watchers worldwide stone buildings, has boutiques, ! C1 ⌂ Rte 99 @ 36, 58
artists’ studios and cafés.
# 8am–5pm daily (to 4pm
Fri); closes 1 hour earlier in
14 - winter ∑ parks.org.il
Zichron Ya’akov 15 Fed by a gushing spring
Mount Tabor that feeds the Dan River, a
! B2 ⌂ 30 km (19 miles) S
of Haifa @ 202 (Haifa) ! C2 ⌂ 92 km (57 miles) NE tributary of the Jordan, this
of Tel Aviv lush area can be explored
The town of Zichron Ya’akov on foot via three trails.
was estab lished by Jews Rising above the hills between The excavated ruins of
from Romania in the 1880s, the Sea of Galilee and Jezreel the ancient city of Dan,
under the patronage of Baron Valley, perfectly symmetrical mentioned repeatedly in the
Edmond James de Rothschild. Mount Tabor (400 m/1,312 ft) Old Testament, are nearby. In
Carmel Winery was founded has long been an important 1979, archaeologists found a
there in 1882 and is still pro Christian pilgrimage site for mudbrick Canaanite gate
ducing, with tours available. In its association with Jesus’s (18th century BC) – the oldest
the town centre, the First Aliya Transfiguration. It also appears of its kind in the world – and a
Museum and the NILI Museum in the Old Testament as the stone gate from the Israelite
recount Zichron’s history; the place, according to Judges period (9th century BC). The
latter focuses on a proBritish (chapters 4 and 5), where the basalt Tel Dan Stele, found
Prophet Deborah defeated the here in fragments in 1993–4,
Canaanite commander Sisera. includes the earliest known
At the summit, reached along nonbiblical mention of
a narrow road with 16 dizzying David as the founder of the
STAY curves, is a monastery and Israelite dynasty; it can be
seen at the Israel Museum
the majestic Church of the
Transfiguration, built in 1924. in Jerusalem (p156).
Lishansky
Since 1936
Bauhaus-style hotel
built by the family of an
(in)famous British spy.
⌂ 42 HaRishonim St,
Metula § (04) 699 7184
ÒÒÒ
Villa Tehila
Atmospheric boutique
hotel in four late 19th-
century houses.
⌂ 7 HaHalut zim St,
Old Town, Rosh Pina
∑ villa-tehila.co.il
ÒÒÒ
Safed Inn
Sitting atop Mount
Canaan this is a
friendly, quirky place.
⌂ HaGdud HaShlishi St,
corner of Merom
Kna’an St, Safed
∑ safedinn.com
ÒÒÒ
The lofty Church of the
Transfiguration atop
Mount Tabor
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A group of young people
enjoying the hot springs
at Hammat Gader
3rdcentury Jews, unable to
access Jerusalem’s Mount of
Olives, to choose this as their
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee 17 " USSR – flock here, especially are beautifully decorated.
final resting place. Carved into
the limestone hills, many of
the Jewish catacombs, and
the sarcophagi inside them,
They bear inscriptions in
Greek, Aramaic, Hebrew and
Palmyrene, reflecting the
encounter and exchange of
influences that took place
between the Jewish and
on chilly winter days. In addi
Hamat Gader
tion to soaking away stress,
GraecoRoman civilizations.
aches and pains in soothing
! C2 ⌂ 105 km (65 miles)
hot mineral water, both adults
NE of Tel Aviv @ # Hours
vary, check website
play in a water park. At the far
∑ hamat-gader.com
Tzipori
end of the resort is a crocodile
farm, the only one of its kind
The Romans loved bathing
! B2 ⌂ Off Route 79,
in the Middle East, and there
in these hot springs on the and children can swim and o "-=
Lower Galilee @ # 8am–
northern bank of the Yarmuk are ruins of a Roman bath 5pm daily (to 4pm Fri);
River, which today forms the and amphitheatre that can closes 1 hour earlier in
border between Israel and be explored. winter ∑ parks.org.il
Jordan. All sorts of Israelis –
particularly those who have Welloff Tzipori (Zippori), also
immigrated from the former known as Sepphoris, sat out
i " the Great Jewish Revolt, which
Beit She’arim ended in the destruction of
TOP GALILEE SITES the Second Temple (AD 70),
5 ASSOCIATED ! B2 ⌂ Off Rte 75, 6 km as well as the Bar Kochba
WITH JESUS (4 miles) E of Kiryat Tiv’on Revolt (AD 132–35), so it was
@ 301, 826 # Hours vary
Nazareth by season, check website
Much of his youth spent ∑ parks.org.il
here; also believed site A UNESCO World Heritage
of Annunciation (p198). Site since 2015, Beit She’arim
served as a Jewish political
Kafr Cana and religious centre and
Near Nazareth, this as a seat of Torah study in
is where water was the generations after the
changed to wine. catastrophic Bar Kochba
Revolt against the Romans
Mount of the (AD 132–135). The Sanhedrin
Beatitudes
Site of the Sermon on (supreme council of rabbis)
was based here for a while,
the Mount (p202).
and Rabbi Yehuda HaNasi, the
Sea of Galilee main editor of the Mishnah,
Preached at Capernaum lived and was buried here,
and Kursi (p202). prompting other 2nd to
Mount Tabor
Associated with the
Transfiguration (p209). Pale rocks contrasting with
the blue Mediterranean
Sea at Rosh HaNikra
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well-placed to become a Beirut ran by here. A railway
centre of Jewish learning tunnel excavated during PAGAN MOTIFS
and spirituality after the World War II by British army The Zodiac Wheel, with
devastation of Judea. Today, units from South Africa and the sun god Helios in
the site is best known for New Zealand is now used to the middle, is instantly
its Roman and Byzantine- screen videos about its history. recognizable from
era mosaics, including a Roman paganism – so
breathtaking portrait of why has it been found
a woman nicknamed “the depicted on 4th- to 6th-
Mona Lisa of the Galilee”, a "' century mosaic floors
and an extraordinary, late- Upper Galilee Museum in synagogues at places
Byzantine-era synagogue of Prehistory such as Beit Alpha and
floor depicting both a Zodiac ! C1 ⌂ Kibbutz Ma’ayan Tzippori? It would seem
wheel and the Ark of the Baruch @ 36 # 10am– that even as Jews
Covenant. Visitors can walk 1:30pm daily; longer hours strove to preserve their
through an ancient water Aug and during Passover faith and civilization
reservoir, 260 m (850 ft) long, ∑ ugmp.co.il by building beautiful
carved deep into the rock. houses of worship,
About 12,000 years ago in their intense encounter
the Hula Valley, a Natufian- with Graeco-Roman
era woman was buried along beliefs brought about
p "- with her dog. Today, their the adoption, and, most
Rosh HaNikra skeletons – the earliest likely, the redefinition,
archaeological evidence ever of certain pagan sym-
! B1 ⌂ Northern terminus found of the domestication of bols, perhaps by groups
of Rte 4, Western Galilee that tended towards a
@ 31 # 9am–6pm daily canines – can be seen in this Hellenized, mystical
(to 4pm Fri) ∑ rosh- superb little museum, which form of Judaism. It’s
hanikra.com also features an extraordinary worth noting that on
collection of hand axes and
Just down the cliff (by cable other tools made by our the synagogue floors,
car) from the UN “Blue Line” ancestors of up to 780,000 archetypical Jewish
border between Israel and years ago. symbols, such as
Lebanon, the wave-battered All the artifacts that are Menorahs, are also
sea grottoes of Rosh HaNikra on display here were found depicted nearby. They
radiate every shade of blue, in the Upper Galilee region. are often accompanied
by inscriptions in
from turquoise to ultramarine, Engaging and informative, Aramaic and/or Hebrew
and the scene is given added the museum provides a (as well as Greek).
brilliance by the bright white captivating insight into
of the surrounding limestone. prehistoric life.
A path leads through the
cave network, past heaving
seas, affording views out to
the Mediterranean.
From 1942 to 1948, the rail
line from the Suez Canal to
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Looking out over the Judaean Desert from Masada
DEAD SEA AND
NEGEV DESERT
The chemical properties of the Dead Sea have
been utilized since Ancient Egyptian times, when
the natural asphalt that rises to its surface was
used to embalm mummies. There was little human
settlement in this inhospitable area, but in the
1st century BC, Herod the Great built Masada, a
mountaintop fortress that in AD 73 was the scene
of a desperate last stand by anti-Roman Jewish
rebels. Around the same time, a dissenting Jewish
sect – possibly the Essenes – found refuge at
Qumran, leaving behind a collection of Hebrew
manuscripts. Discovered in 1947, they are now
known as the Dead Sea Scrolls.
The mountainous, rocky Negev Desert covers
about 60 percent of Israel. The Egyptians began
mining copper at Timna around 1400 BC, and
according to the Bible both Abraham and Isaac dug
wells at Be’er Sheva, which by the 10th century BC
was a thriving Israelite city. In the 3rd century BC,
the Nabateans established a trans-Negev Incense
Route to bring frankincense and myrrh from
southern Arabia to the Mediterranean, but their
control of the region was ended by the Romans
in the 1st century AD. Left largely uninhabited for
centuries, the Negev was developed in the 20th
century with the establishment of desert kibbutzim
(collective settlements). Today, the population of
the region includes about 250,000 Bedouin Arabs,
some of whom still live in desert encampments.
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TEL AVIVTEL AVIV WEST BANK Wadi as SirWadi as Sir Amman Amman
WEST BANK
DEAD SEA AND p168 p168 RamallahRamallah Na‘ur Na‘ur Saiab Saiab
NEGEV DESERT JERUSALEMJERUSALEM Jericho Jericho Hisban Hisban Al MuwaqqarAl Muwaqqar
Medit err aneanMedit err anean Ashdod Ashdod p64 p64
Must Sees Beit Beit Jerusalem Jerusalem Queen AliaQueen Alia
1 Masada Sea Sea ShemeshShemesh International AirportInternational Airport
2 Dead Sea Ashklelon Ashklelon BethlehemBethlehem
3 Eilat Efrata Efrata
Qiryat Qiryat
Beit
Beit
Experience More Sderot Sderot Gat Gat Guvrin Guvrin Dead Dead Al 'ÁmiriyahAl 'Ámiriyah
Sea
4 Tel Be’er Sheva Gaza Gaza Ein Gedi Ein Gedi Sea
5 Avdat National Park GAZA GAZA WEST BANKWEST BANK Dhiban Dhiban
Nature ReserveNature Reserve
6 Sde Boker Netivot Netivot p226 p226
7 Mitzpe Ramon Re'im Re'im Rahat Rahat
8 Makhtesh Ramon Khan Yunis Khan Yunis DEAD DEAD
SEA
SEA
9 Hai Bar Yotvata Wildlife Reserve Rafah Rafah Ofakim Ofakim Hura Hura MASADAMASADA Rabba Rabba
10 Kibbutz Lotan TEL BE'ER SHEVATEL BE'ER SHEVA Arad Arad Al QatranahAl Qatranah
11 Timna Park Kerem Kerem Nevatim Nevatim Ein BokekEin Bokek
Shalom' Shalom'
Tse'elim Tse'elim
El Kharuba El Kharuba Kerak Kerak
Neve ZoharNeve Zohar
Dimona Dimona Sodom Sodom
El Mazar El Mazar Mash'abeiMash'abei
Bir el 'Abd Bir el 'Abd
Sade Sade
Muhayy Muhayy
Yeroham Yeroham Ne'ot Ne'ot
ha-Kikar ha-Kikar
Nitzana Nitzana
SDE BOKERSDE BOKER
Abu 'Aweigila At TafilahAt Tafilah
Abu 'Aweigila
Midreshet Ben-GurionMidreshet Ben-Gurion
Ein Hatseva Ein Hatseva Al Hisa Al Hisa
AVDAT AVDAT
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
MAKHTESHMAKHTESH Jurf ad Jurf ad
El Quseima El Quseima Darawish Darawish
RAMONRAMON Sapir
Sapir
MITZPEMITZPE PETRA ANDPETRA AND
RAMONRAMON Tsofar Tsofar WESTERN JORDANWESTERN JORDAN JORD ANJORD AN
p240 p240
Bir Hasana Bir Hasana
Neg e vNeg e v 'Unayzah 'Unayzah
Bir Gifgafa Bir Gifgafa
Deser tDeser t
Be'er Be'er Wadi Musa Wadi Musa
E G YPT YPT Menukha Menukha
E G
Abu Jurdhan
Abu Jurdhan
Al Jafr Al Jafr
Ma‘an Ma‘an
Dilaghah Dilaghah
Bir el Thamada
Bir el Thamada
GharandalGharandal
Al Murayghah
Al Murayghah
Ne'ot Smadar
Ne'ot Smadar
KIBBUTZKIBBUTZ
LOTAN LOTAN
Nakhl Nakhl Ovda AirportOvda Airport
HAI BAR YOTVATAHAI BAR YOTVATA
DEAD SEA ANDDEAD SEA AND WILDLIFE RESERVEWILDLIFE RESERVE
NEGEV DESERTNEGEV DESERT
TIMNA PARKTIMNA PARK
Ramon Ramon
GebelGebel El Thamad El Thamad International AirportInternational Airport
el T ihel T ih King HusseinKing Hussein
EILAT EILAT International AirportInternational Airport Wadi RumWadi Rum 0 kilometres0 kilometres 30 30 N N
Aqaba Aqaba
Taba Taba
Re d Re d 0 miles 0 miles 30 30
Sea Sea
214-215_EW_Jerusalem.indd 214 23/11/2018 10:57
TEL AVIVTEL AVIV WEST BANK Wadi as SirWadi as Sir Amman Amman
WEST BANK
p168 p168
RamallahRamallah Na‘ur Na‘ur Saiab Saiab
JERUSALEMJERUSALEM Jericho Jericho Hisban Hisban Al MuwaqqarAl Muwaqqar
Medit err aneanMedit err anean Ashdod Ashdod Beit Beit p64 p64
Sea Sea ShemeshShemesh Jerusalem Jerusalem Queen AliaQueen Alia
International AirportInternational Airport
BethlehemBethlehem
Ashklelon Ashklelon
Efrata Efrata
Qiryat Qiryat
Sderot Sderot Gat Gat Beit Beit Al 'ÁmiriyahAl 'Ámiriyah
Guvrin Guvrin Dead Dead
Sea
Gaza Gaza Ein Gedi Ein Gedi Sea
WEST BANKWEST BANK Dhiban Dhiban
Nature ReserveNature Reserve
GAZA GAZA p226 p226
Netivot Netivot
Re'im Re'im
Rahat Rahat
Khan Yunis Khan Yunis DEAD DEAD
MASADAMASADA SEA SEA Rabba Rabba
Rafah Rafah Ofakim Ofakim Hura Hura
TEL BE'ER SHEVATEL BE'ER SHEVA Arad Arad
Kerem Kerem Al QatranahAl Qatranah
Shalom' Shalom' Nevatim Nevatim Ein BokekEin Bokek
Tse'elim Tse'elim
El Kharuba El Kharuba Kerak Kerak
Neve ZoharNeve Zohar
Dimona Dimona Sodom Sodom
El Mazar El Mazar Mash'abeiMash'abei
Bir el 'Abd Bir el 'Abd
Sade Sade
Muhayy Muhayy
Yeroham Yeroham Ne'ot Ne'ot
ha-Kikar ha-Kikar
Nitzana Nitzana
SDE BOKERSDE BOKER
Abu 'Aweigila
Abu 'Aweigila At TafilahAt Tafilah
Midreshet Ben-GurionMidreshet Ben-Gurion
Ein Hatseva Ein Hatseva Al Hisa Al Hisa
AVDAT AVDAT
NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK
MAKHTESHMAKHTESH Jurf ad Jurf ad
El Quseima El Quseima Darawish Darawish
RAMONRAMON Sapir
Sapir
MITZPEMITZPE PETRA ANDPETRA AND
RAMONRAMON Tsofar Tsofar WESTERN JORDANWESTERN JORDAN JORD ANJORD AN
p240 p240
Bir Hasana Bir Hasana
Neg e vNeg e v 'Unayzah 'Unayzah
Bir Gifgafa Bir Gifgafa
Deser tDeser t
Be'er Be'er Wadi Musa Wadi Musa
E G
E G YPT YPT Menukha Menukha
Abu Jurdhan
Abu Jurdhan
Al Jafr Al Jafr
Ma‘an Ma‘an
Dilaghah Dilaghah
Bir el Thamada
Bir el Thamada
GharandalGharandal
Al Murayghah
Al Murayghah
Ne'ot Smadar
Ne'ot Smadar
KIBBUTZKIBBUTZ
LOTAN LOTAN
Nakhl Nakhl Ovda AirportOvda Airport
HAI BAR YOTVATAHAI BAR YOTVATA
DEAD SEA ANDDEAD SEA AND WILDLIFE RESERVEWILDLIFE RESERVE
NEGEV DESERTNEGEV DESERT
TIMNA PARKTIMNA PARK
Ramon Ramon
GebelGebel El Thamad El Thamad International AirportInternational Airport
el T ihel T ih King HusseinKing Hussein
EILAT EILAT International AirportInternational Airport Wadi RumWadi Rum 0 kilometres0 kilometres 30 30 N N
Aqaba Aqaba
Taba Taba
Re d Re d 0 miles 0 miles 30 30
Sea Sea
214-215_EW_Jerusalem.indd 215 23/11/2018 10:57
1 "
MASADA
C4 ⌂ Off Route 90, 18 km (11 miles) S of Ein Gedi @ From Jerusalem or Eilat
# 8am–5pm Sat–Thu, 8am–4pm Fri & hols (closes 1 hr earlier in winter)
Perched atop a plateau that towers over the western edge of the Dead Sea, this
EXPERIENCE Dead Sea and Negev Desert park, the site contains some fascinating ruins and offers stunning views that
isolated fortress is where, in the 1st century AD, 967 Jewish rebels chose mass
suicide over submission to Rome. Today a World Heritage Site and a national
stretch all the way to the Jordanian mountains.
Masada was fortified as early as the 1st or
2nd century BC and then enlarged and rein
forced by Herod the Great, who added two
luxurious palace complexes. On Herod’s death
the fortress passed into Roman hands, but it
was captured in AD 66 during the First Revolt
by Jews of the Zealot sect. After the Romans
had crushed the rebels in Jerusalem, Masada
remained the last Jewish stronghold. It was
under Roman siege for over two years before
the walls were breached in AD 73.
After the Romans left, the site appears to
have been deserted for 200 years, until, in the
5th century, Christian hermits established a
monastery here. The remains of a Byzantine The Columbarium, which once
church can still be seen. housed funerary urns
The cable car runs
daily; otherwise it is
8 Masada’s Calidarium 60-minute climb.
a strenuous 45- to
(hot baths) are one of
the best-preserved
Roman military camps parts of the fortress.
were positioned
around the base
of Masada. Snake Path
Upper terrace
Middle terrace
Lower terrace
Part of the Northern Palace
complex, the Hanging Palace
was Herod’s private residence.
The Water Gate is at the head
of a narrow, winding path to
the reservoirs below.
The ruins of the This synagogue is
ancient mountaintop thought to be the
fortress of Masada oldest in the world.
216
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Must See
The beautiful view from
Masada over the Judaean
Desert at sunrise
The Columbarium
housed niches for
Used for funerary urns.
entertaining,
the Western The cable car that transports
Palace was Water was carried by visitors to the top of the mountain
richly decorated. donkey to cisterns
on top of the rock,
such as this one.
Southern Citadel
Western Wall
THE ROMAN SIEGE
OF MASADA
The Roman legions
laying siege to Masada
numbered about 10,000
men. They surrounded
the mountain with a
ring of camps and built
a huge earthen ramp up
the mountainside. A
tower was then constr
ucted, from which the
Romans set to work
with a battering ram.
An inner defensive wall
proved little obstacle
and Masada soon fell.
The Roman ramp
is now the western
entrance to the site.
217
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EXPERIENCE Dead Sea and Negev Desert Did You Know?
The salinity of the
2
ten times that of
DEAD SEA Dead Sea is around
ocean water.
! C3–5 @ From Jerusalem
the community before being
The Dead Sea (which is actually a lake, not a sea) lies directed to the archaeological
half in Israel, half in Jordan. It is 76 km (47 miles) from site at the foot of the cliffs.
north to south and less than 16 km (10 miles) across. The trail through the site is
At 411 m (1,348 ft) below sea level, it is also the lowest wheelchair accessible and has
point on earth. The water is so mineral-laden that it is special signage for the visually
impaired. From the site you
around 26 per cent solid. The therapeutic qualities of can see the caves above
the water and its mud have been touted since ancient where the scrolls were found.
times, and spas are dotted along its shores.
2
through ritual ablutions.
1 " These activities were rudely Ein Bokek
Qumran brought to a halt through
conflict with the Romans. ⌂ Route 90, 116 km
C3 ⌂ Route 90, 20 km (72 miles) SE of Jerusalem
(12 miles) S of Jericho The Essenes largely vanished
§ (02) 994 2235 # 8am– from history until 1947, when The largest tourism zone on
5pm Sat–Thu, 8am–4pm Fri a Bedouin shepherd boy who the Israeli shore of the Dead
was looking for a lost goat
Sea, Ein Bokek’s glittering
(closes 1 hr earlier in winter)
happened upon a cave full of coastal strip boasts a dozen
Qumran is known chiefly as jars. These jars were found to luxurious hotels, several
the place where the Dead Sea contain a precious hoard of restaurants (most hotel
Scrolls were discovered. From 190 linenwrapped scrolls that guests take halfboard),
150 BC to AD 68, this remote had been preserved for 2,000 shops, and a glorious, sandy
site was the home of a radi years. Following much study public beach, completely
cally ascetic and reclusive by academics, some of the redeveloped in 2017. Under
community, often identified scrolls are now on view in Israeli law, all waterfront
with the Essenes. According to a purposebuilt hall at the land is public so the beach
their school of thought, the Israel Museum (p156). promenade and its pergolas,
arrival of the Jewish Messiah Visitors to Qumran watch showers, changing rooms
was imminent, and they a short film on the Essenes, and bathrooms are all free.
prepared for this event with with audio in eight languages, Lifeguards are on duty
fasting and purification and view a small exhibition on during the day.
218
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Must See
Protected as Ein Gedi Nature
Salt deposits in the Dead Reserve, the oasis is a haven
Sea, with the resort of Ein for desert wildlife such as
Bokek in the background ibexes and rock hyraxes,
which look like large rodents,
while the more remote areas
are the abode of the desert
3 " leopard. Two gorges are at the
Ein Gedi Nature core of the reserve; these are
Reserve crossed by a network of paths.
The shortest walking tour
C4 ⌂ Highway 90,
Dead Sea § (08) 658 4285 takes about an hour and ends
at the spectacular Shulamit
# 8am–5pm Sat–Thu, 8am–
4pm Fri (closes 1 hr earlier Falls. Near the reserve’s
in winter) entrance are the ruins of a
5th-century-BC synagogue Cooling down under
Ein Gedi is famous as a lush with mosaics and inscriptions a waterfall in Ein Gedi
oasis in an otherwise barren in Hebrew and Aramaic. Nature Reserve
landscape. Several springs
provide plentiful water to a
luxuriant mix of tropical and 4 as the likely site, but the name
desert vegetation. The site is Sodom remains attached to a
mentioned in the Bible for its Sodom spot on the Israeli side of the
beauty (Song of Songs 1:14) C4 ⌂ Route 90, 130 km Dead Sea. There is nothing to
and as a refuge of David who (81 miles) SE of Jerusalem visit, but nearby are the two
was fleeing from King Saul spas of Ein Bokek and Neve
(I Samuel 24). Biblical tradition holds that Zohar, famous for their thera-
the city of Sodom lay on the peutic centres, and a public
southern shore of the Dead beach with freshwater
Sea (Genesis 19). Its sinful showers. Inland and 9 km
inhabitants, along with those (6 miles) south of Neve Zohar
STAY of neighbouring Gomorrah, is Mount Sodom, a mountain
angered God, and he destroyed composed largely of rock salt,
the cities with “brimstone boasting incomparable views
Ein Gedi and fire”. Archaeologists now of the Dead Sea and the Moab
Kibbutz Hotel favour Bab ed-Dhra in Jordan mountains in Jordan.
This relaxing hotel
boasts lovely gardens,
com fortable rooms and Jericho
great views. Hisban
⌂ Kibbutz Ein Gedi Jerusalem Suwaymah
∑ ein-gedi.co.il Qumran
Bethlehem Ma’daba
ÒÒÒ Avnat
Herodion
Masada Guest House Mitspe Malih
This guesthouse has Shalem
simple, clean rooms and Hebron WEST Dhiban
a warm-season pool. BANK Dead
⌂ Masada ∑ iyha.org.il Sea
Ein Gedi
ÒÒÒ Nature Reserve JORDAN
Shkedi’s Camplodge Masada
A well-equipped desert Al Qasr
encampment with a Arad
mellow vibe.
⌂ Ne’ot HaKikar # Jul– Ein Bokek
mid-Sep ∑ shkedig.com ISRAEL Kerak
ÒÒÒ Neve Zohar
Dimona Sodom
0 km 15 N
Ne'ot ha-Kikar Fifah 0 miles 15
218-219_EW_Jerusalem.indd 219 23/11/2018 10:57
EXPERIENCE Dead Sea and Negev Desert
3
the underwater observatory
EILAT main spectacle, though, is at
itself, which is 6 m (20 ft)
under water and gives a
local marine life through
! B7 ⌂ 320 km (200 miles) S of Jerusalem k @ spectacular live view of the
n Beit ha-Gesher St; (08) 630 9111 its large glass windows.
Lying at the end of the Gulf of Aqaba, on a stretch of
Israel’s 12-km- (7-mile-) long southern coast, Eilat is
the only Israeli town on the Red Sea. This small stretch 3 "
Coral Beach
of coastline was ceded to Israel with the United Nations Nature Reserve
partition of Palestine in 1947, and Eilat has since devel-
oped rapidly, both as a port and as a popular holiday ⌂ Coral Beach # 8am–6pm NEVE International
resort. Today, it is filled with hotels and tourist villages, Sat–Thu, 8am–5pm Fri MIDBBAR Birding and
Research
and is a centre for diving and trips into the desert. (closes 1 hr earlier in Center Eilat
winter) ∑ parks.org.il ARAVA YE’ELM
This small marine nature ZEELIM EILAT Eilat Airport
1 2 " reserve protects some of MITSPE Central
Bus Station
Eilat’s most robust and
North Beach Underwater vibrant coral reefs. The best YAM Ice Mall
Eilat
Lined with the city’s most Observatory way to experience the Red Museum MARINA
luxurious hotels and numerous Marine Park Sea’s undersea diversity is SHAHAMON
North
buzzing cafés and restaurants, ⌂ Coral Beach § (08) 636 Beach
North Beach Promenade is 4200 # 8:30am–4pm
the premier place in Eilat to daily ∑ coralworld.co.il INSIDER TIP Dekel Beach
strut your stuff and people- Glass-Bottom Mosh Beach
watch. The narrow, coarse- The large Coral World Boat Trip
sand beach is well geared Underwater Observatory is If you want to visit
to lounging, with free public an oceanographic complex the depths of the reef
showers, changing booths and where you can get a close-up without diving, you can Dolphin Reef
bathrooms, while the more view of the marvellous marine take a trip on Coral 2000.
energetic can try an array of life here. It contains 25 tanks Run by the Underwater
water sports such as banana with more than 500 species Observatory Marine R ed Sea
boats, flyboards, jet skis and of fish, sponges, corals and Park, this glass-bottom
glass-bottom boat rides. For invertebrates. The most boat offers a dry tour Village
Beach
more places to eat and drink interesting displays are those of the corals from 1.5 m
and less-pricey hotels, walk with the larger creatures such (5 ft) below sea level . Coral Beach
inland along the lagoon. as sharks and sea turtles. The Nature Reserve 0 km 1 N
Underwater Observatory
220 Marine Park 0 miles 1
220-221_EW_Jerusalem.indd 220 23/11/2018 10:57
Must See
Eilat’s stunning coastline,
with its golden sands and
brilliant azure sea
observe the marine life from
above. Near the shore are
shallow wading pools in which
children can play.
DIVING AND
SNORKELLING
IN EILAT
4 "
Dolphin Reef The Red Sea is home
to some of the world’s
⌂ Southern Beach § (08) most astonishing
630 0111 # 9am–5pm coral reefs that, so
daily ∑ dolphinreef.co.il far, are unaffected by
climate change-caused
Did You Know? This privately run stretch bleaching. South of
of Red Sea beachfront, 4 km
Eilat’s city centre,
(2 miles) southwest of the city a dozen world-class
Eilat is a popular centre, offers a quiet, verdant dive centres offer
shopping destination, place to sunbathe, swim and PADI scuba courses
as the city is exempt relax, but the main attraction and rent out diving
from VAT. here is a group of semi-wild equipment. The best
bottlenose dolphins. Curious spot for snorkeling is
creatures, they often approach the Coral Reef Nature
snorkel lers to check them out, Reserve (masks are
to rent snorkelling gear and offering an opportunity for available for rent).
plunge in with the fish, but if anyone over age ten to see
you’d rather stay dry it is also these highly intelligent sea
possible to walk out over the mammals up close (touching
reefs on footbridges and is not allowed). 5 '
International
Birding and Research
Center Eilat
NEVE International
MIDBBAR Birding and ⌂ Kibbutz Eilot, 2 km
Research (1 mile) N of Eilat # 8am–
Center Eilat
ARAVA YE’ELM 4pm daily ∑ eilatbirds.com
ZEELIM Eilat Airport The salt marshes just north of
EILAT
Central Eilat are the feeding grounds
MITSPE Bus Station of hundreds of millions of
YAM Ice Mall migratory birds that travel
Eilat MARINA
Museum between Africa and Eurasia
every spring and autumn.
SHAHAMON North
Beach The last feeding stop before
crossing the Saharan Desert,
Dekel Beach this important habitat has
Mosh Beach been greatly reduced as
a consequence of human
development. The International
Birdwatching Centre, which
Dolphin Reef seeks to protect what is left of
the salt marshes, has an inter-
pretation centre and organizes
R ed Sea guided birdwatching tours.
In season, the skies are filled
Village with thousands of storks,
Beach
flamingos and herons. The
Coral Beach area is also home to eagles,
Nature Reserve
0 km 1 N hawks and buzzards.
Underwater Observatory
Marine Park 0 miles 1 221
220-221_EW_Jerusalem.indd 221 23/11/2018 10:57
The evocative ruins at
Tel Be’er Sheva, site of the
eponymous Biblical city
modern attempts to replicate
their irrigation technology,
can be seen around Avdat.
EXPERIENCE Dead Sea and Negev Desert 6 "=
Sde Boker
! B5 ⌂ Negev Highlands
@ 60, 64 ∑ bgh.org.il
David BenGurion (1886–1973),
Israel’s first prime minister, was
so inspired by the socialist
pioneers he met in 1952 at
Kibbutz Sde Boker, 50 km
(30 miles) south of Be’er Sheva,
that he chose to live there for
much of the last 20 years of his
EXPERIENCE MORE life. He was laid to rest 6 km
(4 miles) to the south in the
grounds of Midreshet Ben
Gurion, a regional academic
and research centre with a field
4 " 5 " school (guesthouse), bedand
Tel Be’er Sheva Avdat National Park breakfasts, a supermarket and
restaurants. BenGurion is
! B4 ⌂ 6 km (4 miles) ! B5 ⌂ Negev Highlands
NE of Be'er Sheva @ 10, 15 @ # 8am–5pm daily (4pm buried next to his wife Paula
# 8am–5pm daily (to 4pm Fri); closes 1 hour earlier in at the edge of a cliff with
Fri); closes 1 hour earlier in winter ∑ parks.org.il
winter ∑ parks.org.il
Between the 3rd century BC
This UNESCO World Heritage and the 2nd century AD, the
Site, rising from the desert desertdwelling Nabateans
5 km (3 miles) east of central controlled the lucrative
Be’er Sheva, has been iden “Spice Route” that brought
tified by archaeologists as frankincense and myrrh from
the biblical city of Be’er Sheva. Yemen and Oman to the
Excavations have shown that it Mediterranean world of the
was an important walled city Romans. One of four ancient
during the Israelite (Iron Age) Nabatean cities in the Negev,
period of the 9th and 8th Avdat’s ruins are remarkably
centuries BC. Water was well preserved. The city’s
supplied yearround by a well prosperity peaked during the
69 m (226 ft) deep and by an Byzantine period and so, in
underground reservoir. A First addition to a Roman burial
Templeperiod sacrificial altar cave and a bathhouse, the
with “horns” at each corner, the site is graced by two churches.
first ever found in Israel, was Thanks to a sophisticated
discovered here in pieces; the system for storing the raging
original is now in the Israel waters of rare desert down
Museum in Jerusalem (p156). pours, the Nabateans were
During World War I, in 1917, able to sustain vineyards and
Anzac units captured the site orchards in the wadis around
during the British campaign to their cities. Remnants of their
take Be’er Sheva from the Turks. dams and channels, and
222
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magnificent views of En Avdat this high desert town, with
National Park, beloved by a population of more than
Israelis for its year-round 5,000, was founded in the
spring, cool pools (swimming 1950s. It is about 82 km DRINK
prohibited), brookside (50 miles) south of Be’er
vegetation (rare in the arid Sheva and 150 km (93 miles)
Negev), chalky cliffs and north of Eilat. The Makhtesh Inspired in part by the
ancient irrigation
roaming ibexes. The reserve’s Ramon Visitors’ Center on technology of the
northern entrance is just Ma’ale Ben Tur Street can Nabateans, a number
outside the gate to Midreshet provide information on walks of innovative Israeli
Sde Boker; trails begin at a and hikes; nearby, a Lookout vintners have been
parking area 3 km (2 miles) Platform offers breathtaking planting vines and
south of there. views of the canyon. opening up wineries
At Bio Ramon, a small between Mitzpe Ramon
En Avdat National Park wildlife park, you can see and Sde Boker (along
# 8am–5pm daily (to 4pm small desert animals (owls, Route 40). Many places
Fri); closes 1 hour earlier in lizards, snakes, scorpions) that offer relaxing, rustic
winter ∑ parks.org.il have been nursed back to bed-and-breakfast
health but cannot be returned accommodation; here
to the wild. are two of the best.
7 The workaday warehouses Boker Valley
of the old industrial zone have
Mitzpe Ramon been revitalized as the Spice Vineyards
Route Quarter, where a ∑ bokerfarm.com
! B5 ⌂ Rte 40, Negev community of creative and
Highlands @ 60, 64, 65,
392 ∑ parks.org.il dynamic young Israelis has Desert Estate
opened up boutique hotels, Carmey Avdat
Perched on the rim of vast restaurants and art studios. ∑ carmeyavdat.com
Makhtesh Ramon (p224), at Because of its isolation and
an altitude of 900 m (2,952 ft), freedom from light pollution,
Mitzpe is one of the best
places in Israel for stargazing,
but the high desert gets chilly
Did You Know? at night – in winter the town The spectacular canyon
sometimes gets snow – so in En Avdat National
The ancient Nabatean bring warm clothing. Park, near Sde Boker
people harnessed the
rare waters of Ein
Avdat to maintain
agriculture.
223
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EXPERIENCE Dead Sea and Negev Desert Looking out over the Makhtesh Ramon is the largest of three
massive crater of
Makhtesh Ramon
8 "
Makhtesh Ramon
scientists believe were formed more
! B5 ⌂ Route 40, 80 km
than half a million years ago.
(50 miles) S of Be’er Sheva craters in the Negev Desert, which
§ (08) 658 8691 @ From
Be’er Sheva visitors’ centre
# 8am–5pm daily (to 4pm part of the desert. The town’s receive biblical mention)
visitors’ centre has exhibits
include scimitar-horned
Fri) ; closes 1 hour earlier
in winter on the geology of the great oryxes, wild Somali donkeys,
crater and its flora and fauna. ostriches and the addax
Makhtesh Ramon is Israel’s It also has hiking maps – but antelope with their curved
most dramatic natural make sure to take plenty of horns. A Predator Centre
phenom enon: a crater some water if you go trekking here. houses wildcats, caracals
40 km (25 miles) long, 9 km In Mitzpe Ramon you can also (desert lynxes), foxes,
(5 miles) wide, with a depth arrange to take a tour of the leopards and hyenas in
of 300 m (1,300 ft). It is the crater by jeep. spacious enclosures.
largest of three craters in the
Negev Desert, which scientists
believe were formed more
than half a million years ago 9 "' 10 '-
by a combination of tectonic Hai Bar Yotvata Kibbutz Lotan
movement and erosion. Wildlife Reserve ! B6 ⌂ Southern
Nabataean caravans travelled ! B6 ⌂ Route 90, 35 km Arava @ 20 from Eilat
this way between Petra and (22 miles) N of Eilat @ From ∑ kibbutzlotan.com
Ovdat, and the ruins of an Eilat § (08) 637 6018
ancient caravanserai stand at # 8am–5pm daily (to 4pm Situated 55 km (34 miles)
the centre of the depression. Fri); closes 1 hour earlier north of Eilat, this small
On the crater’s rim is the in winter kibbutz, surrounded by the
town of Mitzpe Ramon, the glorious scenery of the
main base for exploring this Hai Bar was founded with the southern Arava, is known for
aim of reintroducing some of its Center for Creative Ecology,
the creatures named in the which specializes in hands-on
Bible, which have since experimentation with low-
Did You Know? vanished from the Negev. impact desert living, including
permaculture. Tours take
Most of the animals roam
freely, safari-park style, in a you to the Eco-Park, where
In spite of the rumours, 40-sq-km (15-sq-mile) innovative technologies
the Makhtesh Ramon territory in the Arava Valley. are given a trial run, and
was not the result of Visits can be made only by the EcoCampus, where
an asteroid collision. jeep in the company of a international participants in
ranger guide. Native species the Eco-Experience stay in
in the reserve (not all of which mud huts while studying
224
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the Egyptians were mining
copper here around 1500 BC.
They left behind two temples
dedicated to the goddess STAY
Hathor, protectress of mines.
A hieroglyphic inscription
in one of them mentions Khan Be’erotayim
pharaoh Rameses III offering Far, far from the urban
a sacrifice to Hathor. The rat race, this isolated
mines continued to be desert encampment has
worked under the Nabataeans eco-friendly mud huts,
and Romans before even- communal bathrooms
tually being abandoned. and meals from locally
With the added attraction sourced ingredients.
of some curious mushroom- ⌂ Ezuz
shaped rock formations ∑ beerotayim.co.il
created by wind erosion, ÒÒÒ
and the distinctive sandstone
cliffs known as Solomon’s Nabato
Pillars, the area has been
desert sustainability, including preserved as a nature reserve. Next to the gloriously
remote ruins of the
doing laundry with a pedal- An under ground passage Nabatean city of Shivta,
powered washing machine. gives access to the ancient this stone lodging was
The Solar Tea House serves mines, and you can see constructed in the 1930s
vegetarian and vegan food. Egyptian graffiti representing by an Anglo-American
Visitors can stay in the guest ibexes and hunters armed archaeological team
house or rent a mud hut, and with bows and arrows. and has three rooms
volunteers are welcome. Timna’s bluffs, valleys and with private bathrooms.
rock formations, coloured red,
⌂ Shivta
orange and purple by metals ∑ nabato.co.il
and minerals, offer some of
11 "'-= the best short desert hikes ÒÒÒ
Timna Park anywhere in Israel. There are
more than 20 trails of varying Silent Arrow
! B6 ⌂ Off Route 90,
Southern Arava @ From lengths and difficulty to Dome-roofed tents with
Eilat # 8am–4pm Sat–Thu, choose from. Visitors can solar lighting are amid
also cycle on 14 km ( 9 miles)
8am–3pm Fri (to 1pm Jul & the stony expanse of
Aug) ∑ parktimna.co.il of single-track bike paths; the Negev Highlands.
bicycles can be rented at the Guided activities
Ancient remains indicate that visitors’ centre, about 30 km include desert archery
there were working mines at (19 miles) north of Eilat. and stargazing.
Timna as far back as 3000 BC, ⌂ 1.5 km (1 mile) W of
and there is evidence that Mitzpe Ramon
∑ silentarrow.com
ÒÒÒ
Shkedi’s Camplodge
Just south of the Dead
Sea, this hippy-style,
Sinai-inspired
compound has a mellow
desert vibe and offers
basic dorm beds,
communal bathrooms,
a chill-out bar and
nightly campfires.
⌂ Ne’ot HaKikar
∑ shkedig.com
ÒÒÒ
Inspecting the effects of
millennia of wind erosion
on the rocks in Timna Park
225
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The Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem
WEST BANK
The 5,628-sq-km (2,173-sq-mile) West Bank
consists of the areas of Mandatory Palestine
that ended up under Jordanian control at the end
of the 1948 Arab-Israeli war. Shortly after Israel
captured the area in 1967, right-wing Israelis
began establishing settlements on land that
they referred to by its biblical names: Judea, south
of Jerusalem; and Samaria, one-time heartland
of the Samaritans, north of Jerusalem. In 1988,
Jordan renounced its territorial claims to the West
Bank and stripped West Bankers of their right to
Jordanian citizenship. Opposition to Israeli military
rule sparked the First Intifada (1987–91), a popular
rebellion that helped pave the way for the Oslo
Accords (1993) and the establishment of the
interim Palestinian National Authority, based in
Ramallah. Over 130 Palestinian suicide bombings
during the Second Intifada (2000–05) led to
Israeli raids on West Bank towns and Israel’s
construction of a “separation barrier” – about
6 percent of it a concrete wall – and checkpoints to
prevent infiltration by Palestinian militants. Today,
although the quest for peace seems moribund and
the per capita GDP of West Bank Palestinians is
just US$3,700 (compared to US$42,000 in Israel),
Palestinians continue to build museums, cultural
institutions and even wineries – and to welcome
both tourists and pilgrims.
227
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Fureidis Fureidis
MEDITERRANEAN COASTMEDITERRANEAN COAST Gid'ona Gid'ona
Beit ha-Shita
MediterraneanMediterranean AND GALILEEAND GALILEE Zububa Zububa Beit ha-Shita
p186
p186
Sea Sea Beth Shean Beth Shean Dayr Abu Sa’idDayr Abu Sa’id
Sdot YamSdot Yam
Jenin Jenin
Ya'bad Ya'bad Sdei Trumot
Sdei Trumot
KhaderaKhadera
Qabatiya Qabatiya
MikhmoretMikhmoret Nazlat IsaNazlat Isa
Halawah Halawah
Raba Raba
Sanur Sanur
Kafr Ra'i' Kafr Ra'i' Mekhola Mekhola
NetanyaNetanya Sam ar ia n Sam ar ia n ‘Ajlun ‘Ajlun
Hills
Hills
Tul KaremTul Karem Tubas Tubas
Nitsanei OzNitsanei Oz KurayyimahKurayyimah
Deir Sharaf Deir Sharaf
Kur Kur ShkhemShkhem
Kalkilya Kalkilya (Nablus)(Nablus)
Ra'ananaRa'anana (Qalqilya)(Qalqilya) Imatin Imatin
Herzliya Herzliya Beit Beit
Furik Furik J o rd a n River J o rd a n River
Yarkhiv Yarkhiv WES T B ANKWES T B ANK
Mas'ha Mas'ha Damiya Damiya
TEL AVIVTEL AVIV Qabalan Qabalan
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv p168 p168 Salfit Salfit
Ramat Ramat Az-ZarqaAz-Zarqa
Old JaffaOld Jaffa Gan Gan Duma Duma
Sinjil Sinjil As-Salt As-Salt
Ben Gurion Ben Gurion Rantis Rantis Suwaylih Suwaylih
InternationalInternational RussayfahRussayfah
Airport Airport
Rishon Rishon Wadi as Sir Wadi as Sir
le-Tsiyonle-Tsiyon Al Karamah Al Karamah Amman Amman
Beitin
Ramla Ramla KharbataKharbata El-Bira El-Bira Beitin
PALESTINIANTINIAN RAMALLAH
PALES
RAMALLAH
RekhovotRekhovot MUSEUM PETRA ANDPETRA AND Na‘ur Na‘ur
MUSEUM
WESTERNWESTERN
JERICHO JERICHO JORDANJORDAN
ST. GEORGE’SST. GEORGE’S p240 p240
Gedera Gedera MONASTERYMONASTERY
Ashdod Ashdod
Tal Shakhar Tal Shakhar
NEBI MUSA
JerusalemJerusalem NEBI MUSA Suwaymah Suwaymah
Beit Beit p64 p64 Kalya’ Kalya’ Ma’in Ma’in
ShemeshShemesh MAR SABAMAR SABA
Kiryat Mal’akhiKiryat Mal’akhi MONASTERYMONASTERY Ma’daba Ma’daba Queen Alia Queen Alia
BETHLEHEM International Airport
International Airport
BETHLEHEM
HERODION Netil Netil
HERODION
AshkelonAshkelon
Revakha Revakha
Kiryat GatKiryat Gat Kharas Kharas Efrat Efrat Tuqu Tuqu DeadDead JORD ANJORD AN
TarqumiyaTarqumiya Sea Sea Malih Malih
J u d a e a n H i l l s
Halhul Halhul
DEAD SEA ANDDEAD SEA AND Mukawir Mukawir
Sderot Sderot NEGEV DESERTNEGEV DESERT HEBRON HEBRON
Bani Na’imBani Na’im
p212 p212 J u d a e a n H i l l s Wadi al Hidan Wadi al Hidan Dhiban Dhiban
Dora Dora
Beit KamaBeit Kama Karmel’ Karmel’ WEST WEST
Netivot Netivot Yata Yata BANK BANK
Ariha Ariha
Wadi al Mujib Wadi al Mujib
Sharsheret Sharsheret Samu’a Samu’a
Lehavim Lehavim
Har Amasa’ Har Amasa’
Al Qasr Al Qasr
0 kilometres0 kilometres 15 15 N N Al Al Wadi al Karak Ar Rabbah Ar Rabbah
Wadi al Karak
0 miles 0 miles 15 15 Hura Hura Mazra‘ah Mazra‘ah
228-229_EW_Jerusalem.indd 228 23/11/2018 10:58
Fureidis Fureidis
MEDITERRANEAN COASTMEDITERRANEAN COAST Gid'ona Gid'ona
Beit ha-Shita
MediterraneanMediterranean AND GALILEEAND GALILEE Zububa Zububa Beit ha-Shita WEST BANK
p186
p186
Sea Sea Beth Shean Beth Shean Dayr Abu Sa’idDayr Abu Sa’id Must See
Sdot YamSdot Yam 1 Bethlehem
Jenin Jenin
Ya'bad Ya'bad Sdei Trumot
Sdei Trumot
KhaderaKhadera Experience More
2 St George’s Monastery
Qabatiya Qabatiya
MikhmoretMikhmoret Nazlat IsaNazlat Isa 3 Jericho
Halawah Halawah
Raba Raba
Sanur Sanur 4 Nebi Musa
Kafr Ra'i' Kafr Ra'i' Mekhola Mekhola 5 Mar Saba Monastery
NetanyaNetanya Sam ar ia n Sam ar ia n ‘Ajlun ‘Ajlun 6 Ramallah
Hills
Hills
Tul KaremTul Karem Tubas Tubas 7 Palestinian Museum
Nitsanei OzNitsanei Oz KurayyimahKurayyimah
8 Herodion
Deir Sharaf Deir Sharaf
9 Hebron
Kur Kur ShkhemShkhem
Kalkilya Kalkilya (Nablus)(Nablus)
Ra'ananaRa'anana (Qalqilya)(Qalqilya) Imatin Imatin
Herzliya Herzliya Beit Beit
Furik Furik J o rd a n River J o rd a n River
Yarkhiv Yarkhiv WES T B ANKWES T B ANK
Mas'ha Mas'ha Damiya Damiya
TEL AVIVTEL AVIV Qabalan Qabalan
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv p168 p168 Salfit Salfit
Ramat Ramat Az-ZarqaAz-Zarqa
Old JaffaOld Jaffa Gan Gan Duma Duma
Sinjil Sinjil As-Salt As-Salt
Ben Gurion Ben Gurion Rantis Rantis Suwaylih Suwaylih
InternationalInternational RussayfahRussayfah
Airport Airport
Rishon Rishon Wadi as Sir Wadi as Sir
le-Tsiyonle-Tsiyon Al Karamah Al Karamah Amman Amman
Beitin
Ramla Ramla KharbataKharbata El-Bira El-Bira Beitin
PALESTINIANTINIAN RAMALLAH
PALES
RAMALLAH
RekhovotRekhovot MUSEUM PETRA ANDPETRA AND Na‘ur Na‘ur
MUSEUM
WESTERNWESTERN
JERICHO JERICHO JORDANJORDAN
ST. GEORGE’SST. GEORGE’S p240 p240
Gedera Gedera MONASTERYMONASTERY
Ashdod Ashdod
Tal Shakhar Tal Shakhar
NEBI MUSA
JerusalemJerusalem NEBI MUSA Suwaymah Suwaymah
Beit Beit p64 p64 Kalya’ Kalya’ Ma’in Ma’in
ShemeshShemesh MAR SABAMAR SABA
Kiryat Mal’akhiKiryat Mal’akhi MONASTERYMONASTERY Ma’daba Ma’daba Queen Alia Queen Alia
International Airport
BETHLEHEM International Airport
BETHLEHEM
HERODION Netil Netil
HERODION
AshkelonAshkelon
Revakha Revakha
Kiryat GatKiryat Gat Kharas Kharas Efrat Efrat Tuqu Tuqu DeadDead JORD ANJORD AN
TarqumiyaTarqumiya Sea Sea Malih Malih
J u d a e a n H i l l s
Halhul Halhul
DEAD SEA ANDDEAD SEA AND Mukawir Mukawir
Sderot Sderot NEGEV DESERTNEGEV DESERT HEBRON HEBRON
p212 p212 J u d a e a n H i l l s Wadi al Hidan Wadi al Hidan Dhiban Dhiban
Bani Na’imBani Na’im
Dora Dora
Beit KamaBeit Kama Karmel’ Karmel’ WEST WEST
Netivot Netivot Yata Yata BANK BANK
Wadi al Mujib Wadi al Mujib
Ariha Ariha
Sharsheret Sharsheret Samu’a Samu’a
Lehavim Lehavim
Har Amasa’ Har Amasa’
Al Qasr Al Qasr
0 kilometres0 kilometres 15 15 N N Al Al Wadi al Karak Ar Rabbah Ar Rabbah
Wadi al Karak
0 miles 0 miles 15 15 Hura Hura Mazra‘ah Mazra‘ah
228-229_EW_Jerusalem.indd 229 23/11/2018 10:58
EXPERIENCE West Bank
A night-time panorama
of Bethlehem's sacred
historic centre
1 3
BETHLEHEM Milk Grotto
⌂ Milk Grotto St § (02)
274 3867 # 8am–noon
! B3 ⌂ 7 km (4 miles) S of Jerusalem @ Hebron Road & 2–5pm daily
n Manger Sq; www.vicbethlehem.wordpress.com
This grotto is considered
Perched on a hill at the edge of the Judaean Desert, sacred because tradition
Bethlehem is in biblical tradition the childhood home has it that the Holy Family
of David, who was named king here as he tended his took refuge here during the
father’s sheep. It is also the birthplace of Jesus Christ Massacre of the Innocents.
and a major site of pilgrimage since the construction While Mary was suckling Jesus,
so the story goes, a drop of
of the Church of the Nativity in the 4th century AD. milk fell to the ground, turning
it white. Both Christians and
1 2 Muslims believe that scrapings
from the stones in the grotto
St Catherine’s Church Mosque of Omar help to boost the quantity
of a mother’s milk and also
⌂ Manger Square § (02) ⌂ Manger Square
274 2425 # Summer: # 4:30am–9:30pm, to enhance fertility.
6:30am–7:30pm daily; except during prayers
winter: 5am–5pm daily
¢ Sun am for services Built in 1860 on land donated
by the Greek Orthodox
Joined to the Church of the Church, this mosque is the
Nativity (p232), St Catherine’s only Islamic place of worship
Church was built by Franciscans in the city centre (despite the
in the 1880s on the site of a fact that Muslim residents
12th-century Augustinian mon- now outnumber Christians
astery, which had repla ced in Bethlehem). It is named
a 5th-century monastery after Caliph Omar (Umar) ibn
associated with St Jerome. The al-Khattab, the 7th-century
grottoes of the Holy Innocents, Muslim conqueror of Jerusalem,
St Joseph and St Jerome, were who guaranteed Christian
used by Christians as burial religious rights in Bethlehem.
places from as early as the Women must be modestly
1st century AD and contain dressed and cover their A sculpture of Mary,
within them the tombs of heads; the women’s prayer Joseph and the baby
St Jerome and St Paula. area is upstairs. Jesus in the Milk Grotto
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Must See
5
Rachel’s Tomb
TRAVEL IN THE
⌂ Hebron Rd # 1:30am– WEST BANK
10:30pm Sun–Thu
¢ Fri & festivals In order to get to the
∑ keverrachel.com West Bank, you have
to travel through Israel
On the road to Jerusalem is or Israeli-controlled
the tomb of Rachel, wife of territory. Visitors and
Jacob and mother of two of locals alike must pass
his 12 sons. The tomb is cut through Israeli military
off from Bethlehem by the checkpoints such
separation wall and can be as Checkpoint 300
accessed only from the Israeli (between Jerusalem
side. It is the third most holy and Bethlehem) and
site in Judaism and is also Qalandia (between
sacred to Muslims. Jerusalem and
The actual “tomb” consists Ramallah). Tourists
of a rock covered by a velvet usually have few
drape with 11 stones on it, problems but you
one for each of Jacob’s sons may be searched, and
who were alive when Rachel if authorities think
died in child birth. The structure you’re a political acti-
INSIDER TIP around the tomb was built vist they may want
Banksy in in the 1100s by the Crusaders to ask some questions.
Bethlehem and later altered many times. Make sure you have
Many artworks by The site is visited by Jewish your passport and
famed UK street artist women who come to pray Israeli visa slip.
Banksy can be seen in for fertility.
Bethlehem. In 2017, he
also opened the Walled
Off hotel in the city, over Rachel's 0 metres 400 N
looking the separation Tomb KARITAS ST
barrier (p227). 0 yards 400
Palestinian Heritage
4 "\= H E B R O N R O A D Museum of
Museum of
Palestinian Heritage
⌂ Jerusalem-Hebron St M A N G E R S T R E E T
¢ 8am–6pm daily
∑ bethlehemmuseum.com/
museum-sections
This fascinating modern S O S R O A D
museum showcases the
contributions of Christians JO HN PAUL II STREET
to the heritage of Palestine. Bethlehem M A N G E R S T R E ET
University
Exhibits feature Palestinian
embroidery, mother-of-pearl K ING D AVID STREET
and olive wood carvings, and H E B R O N R O A D FRERES STREET
Roman remains, and look at POPE PAUL VI STREET STAR STREET David’s
Well
life in 19th-century Bethlehem
and the contributions of S O S RO A D
Diaspora Palestinians to the
countries in which they live. MANGE R ST
The Al-Karmeh Restaurant J A M A L A B D E L N A S S E R S T STA R STR EET Mosque
Lutheran
inside the museum serves Christmas Church BEIT SAHOUR ST St Catherine's
authentic Palestinian cuisine, POPE PAUL VI STREET of Omar Church
while the gift shop sells locally FA RAHIYA ST Church of
made crafts. K A N A H S T R E E T Market MANGER MILK GROTTO STREET
the Nativity
SQUARE
Milk Grotto
230-231_EW_Jerusalem.indd 231 23/11/2018 10:58
6
CHURCH OF
THE NATIVITY
EXPERIENCE West Bank winter: 5am–5pm daily (grottoes closed Sun morning)
⌂ Manger Square # Summer: 6:30am–7:30pm daily;
∑ travelpalestine.ps
The traditional site of Jesus’ birth has been commemorated by
a church since the early 3rd century. Deep inside this important
structure, in the Grotto of the Nativity, the precise spot is marked
by a 14-pointed silver star.
The first evidence of a cave here being The first evidence of a cave
venerated as Christ’s birthplace is in the here being venerated as
writings of St Justin Martyr around AD 160. In
326, the Roman emperor Constantine ordered Christ’s birthplace is in the
a church to be built, and in about 530 it was writings of St Justin Martyr.
rebuilt by Justinian. The Crusaders redecorated
the interior, but much of the marble was looted
in Ottoman times. In 1852, shared custody of
the church was granted to the Roman Catholic,
Armenian and Greek Orthodox churches, the
Greeks caring for the Grotto of the Nativity.
St Catherine’s
Church (p230)
The Grotto of the Nativity
is the church’s focal point.
Stairs to main
church
Did You Know?
St Jerome’s study is
traditionally believed
to have been next
to the Grotto of
the Nativity.
Altar of the
Adoration of the
Magi (Manger Altar)
Other grottoes, reached
by these steps, contain the
supposed tomb and study Statue of
of St Jerome (p230). St Jerome
The Church of the The attractive cloister of
Nativity, marking St Catherine’s Church was
the site of Jesus’s birth rebuilt in Crusader style in 1948.
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Must See
1 2
1 A silver star in the floor
marks the spot in the Grotto
of the Nativity where Jesus is
said to have been born.
2 Most of the pink limestone
columns in the nave were
reused from the original
4th-century basilica.
3 The cloister of St Catherine’s
Church features a statue
of St Jerome.
The wide nave survives
intact from Justinian’s
time, although the roof
is 15th-century. 3
Thirty of the nave’s 44 columns
carry Crusader paintings of
saints and the Virgin and Child. The narthex was originally
a single, long porch, with
three large doors leading
Wall mosaics once
decorated the church. into the church and three
onto the street.
THE CRIMEAN WAR
AND BETHLEHEM
In the 18th century,
France installed a silver
star in the Grotto of the
Nativity to mark the
spot of Jesus’s birth –
and to stake Catholic
claims to the site. In
1847 it was stolen, and
the Catholics blamed
their long-time rivals,
the Greek Orthodox.
The battle over the
The Door of star’s replacement
Humility was ratcheted up tensions
reduced in size between Catholic
to prevent carts France and Russia,
being driven in historic protector of
by looters. Orthodox Christianity,
and directly contributed
Trap doors in the present to the outbreak of the
floor reveal sections of
mosaic floor surviving Crimean War in 1853.
from the 4th-century.
233
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EXPERIENCE West Bank
EXPERIENCE MORE
2 The monastery can be
reached in 20 minutes on foot
St George’s Monastery via a signposted track off the
old Jerusalem–Jericho road.
! C3 ⌂ Route 1, 27 km
(17 miles) E of Jerusalem From the modern road, hikers
§ (054) 730 6557 @ From can take a more scenic path
Jerusalem # 9am–noon along the full length of the order to possess the land
Wadi Qelt gorge.
daily
promised to them by God, the
The hike from Wadi Qelt to St Israelites brought down the city
George’s Monastery is one of walls with a tremendous shout
the finest in the region, and is 3 "' and a trumpet blast (Joshua 6).
rewarded by the spectacle of Jericho During Roman times, Mark
the abbey, hollowed out of the ! C3 ⌂ 25 km (15 miles) Antony gave it to Cleopatra of
sheer rock wall of a deep and E of Jerusalem @ Bus or Egypt, who, in turn, leased the
narrow gorge. The monastery taxi from Jerusalem town to Herod the Great. At a
was founded in AD 480 around lower altitude than Jerusalem,
a cluster of caves where St Claimed to be the world’s Jericho is notably warmer, and
Joachim is said to have learned oldest city and with rich biblical Herod wintered in a palace
that Anne, his sterile wife and associations, Jericho is a little here, as had the Hasmonean
mother-to-be of the Virgin way north of the Dead Sea, rulers before him.
Mary, had conceived. in the middle of the Judaean The Bible’s New Testament
In AD 614, invading Persians Desert. It owes its existence to mentions several visits to
massacred the monks and the Ain es-Sultan Spring (the Jericho by Jesus, who healed
destroyed the monastery. It biblical Elisha’s Spring), the two blind men and lodged at
was partially reoccupied by the same one that, 10,000 years the home of the tax collector
Crusaders in the Middle Ages, ago in the late Mesolithic Zacchaeus (Luke 19: 1–10).
but only fully restored at the period, attracted a semi- Near the centre of town is a
end of the 19th century. Some nomadic population of hunter-
attractive 6th-century mosaics gatherers to first settle here.
can still be seen, and there is According to the Bible, this
a Crusader-era church with a was the first town captured by The remarkable floor
shrine containing the skulls of the Israelites, led by Joshua. mosaic amid the ruins of
the martyred monks. The Book of Joshua tells how, in Hisham’s Palace at Jericho
234
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St George’s Monastery, ISRAELI SETTLEMENTS IN THE WEST BANK
cut into the rock face, with Since Israel captured the 5,628-sq-km (2,173-sq-mile)
visiting nuns at prayer (inset) West Bank (Palestinian Territories) from Jordan in
the 1967 War, successive Israeli governments have
established 130 Israeli settlements that now have more
centuries-old sycamore tree than 380,000 residents. The ideological hard-core of the
up which Zacchaeus was said mostly Orthodox Jewish settlement movement believes
to have climbed to see Jesus. that settling Jews in all parts of the historic Land of Israel,
Repeated Bedouin raids led including the West Bank (which they refer to by the
to decline around the 12th biblical names Judea and Samaria), is part of the Messianic
century, and it wasn’t until the process, foretold in the Bible. Radical groups have, without
1920s that the town’s irrigation Israeli government authorization, set up another 100
network was restored and the small settlements, many of them on remote hilltops. The
area bloomed again. In 1948, international community considers it illegal to establish
the town took in more than civilian communities on occupied land and, like many
70,000 Palestinian refugees. Israelis, sees this as a serious obstacle to a peaceful,
Most of the camps have since two-state solution to the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
gone, but the Aqbat Jaber
camp remains, in the form
of a somewhat run-down A cable car connects Tell es- Hisham’s Palace (Qasr Hisham)
neighbourhood. Jericho is Sultan with the 12th-century is an early Islamic hunting
now run by the Palestinian Greek Orthodox Monastery lodge built in AD 724 for the
National Authority. of the Temptation to the Omayyad caliph Hisham.
Other attractions include north. Like St George’s in Wadi Destroyed centuries ago by an
Tel Jericho (also known as Qelt, this holy retreat has a earthquake, the ruins are worth
Tell es-Sultan), the sun-baked spectacular location, perched a visit if only to see a gorgeous
earthen mound that repre- high up on a cliff face. The floor mosaic of a lion hunting.
sents something like 10,000 views from its terraces are On the banks of the Jordan
years of continuous settle- breathtaking. It is supposedly River, the Qasr el-Yehud
ment. Most striking of all is a built around the grotto where baptismal site is popular
large stone tower with great the Devil appeared to tempt with fervent pilgrims keen to
thick walls that dates back as Jesus away from his 40-day immerse themselves in the
far as 7000 BC. fast (Matthew 4: 1–11). historic waters.
Tel Jericho
'" ⌂ 2 km (1 mile) N of
centre # Daily
Monastery of
the Temptation
⌂ 2 km (1 mile) N of Jericho
# 8am–4pm Mon–Sat
Hisham’s Palace
" ⌂ 5 km (3 miles) N of
Jericho # 8am–5pm daily
Qasr el-Yehud
' ⌂ 10 km (6 miles) E of
Jericho ∑ parks.org.il
10,000 BC
Hunter-gatherers
settle in what is
now Jericho.
235
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Nebi Musa Monastery,
surrounded by desert
on all sides
monastery survived to bloom
in the 8th and 9th centuries,
when its thick defensive walls
EXPERIENCE West Bank Although only around 20
housed up to 200 devotees.
monks now live in Mar Saba, it
remains a functioning desert
monastery. As seen today,
topped by bright blue domes,
the complex largely dates to
1834, when it was rebuilt
following a major earthquake.
An ornate canopy in the
4 built in this area from the 5th monastery’s main church
century on by hermits seeking
supposedly shelters the
Nebi Musa an austere life of solitude and remains of St Saba, which
prayer. This monastery was were returned to the Holy
! C4 ⌂ Route 1, 10 km
(6 miles) S of Jericho founded in AD 482 by St Saba, Land only in 1965, having
a monk born in Cappadocia,
being carried off by the
@ To Jericho, then taxi
Turkey, whose preachings Crusaders and kept in Venice
Although the claim is heavily were said to have impressed for seven centuries. The
disputed, Muslims revere this the Byzantine emperor church walls are hung with
desert monastery as the Justinian. Despite a massacre icons and a lurid fresco
burial place of Moses. There of the monks by the Persians depicting Judgment Day.
has been a mosque on the site in the 7th century (the skulls Women are not allowed
since 1269, built under the are preserved in a chapel), the to enter the monastery,
patronage of the Mameluke but the views of Mar Saba
emir Baybars. In 1470–80, a from a neigh bouring tower
hospice was added for visiting (which women are permitted
pilgrims. The attractive white Did You Know? to climb) are alone worth
washed structures of the the visit.
present day date from around
1820. The disputed cenotaph Mar Saba is one of the
of Moses, with a traditional oldest inhabited
monasteries in
Islamic green drape, occupies
the spartan, domed tomb the world.
chamber of the mosque.
5
Mar Saba Monastery
! C4 ⌂ Off Route 398,
17 km (11 miles) E of
Bethlehem § (02) 276 2915
@ To Bethlehem, then taxi
# 8am–5pm daily (ring bell)
Out in the wilds of the
Judaean Desert, Mar Saba is
one of the dozens of retreats
Ancient Mar Saba
Monastery, blending
into the landscape
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Displays at Ramallah's Yasser
Arafat Museum, near his
former headquarters
AlManara Square, a short walk Charting the history of his
6 -= from the bus station. In 2018, life, the museum sits on the
Ramallah the A M Qattan Foundation, grounds of the Muquata’a,
which focuses on education Arafat's onetime presidential
! B3 ⌂ 20 km (13 miles)
N of Jerusalem @ 18, and culture, inaugurated a office and military head
19, 218, 219 from near US$21 million arts centre in quarters (bring ID).
Damascus Gate, Jerusalem the city. Designed by Seville Getting through Israel’s
based Donaire Arquitectos, Qalandia checkpoint is not
The West Bank's most secular the striking modern building usually a problem for Western
and cosmopolitan city, his houses a gallery space, a passport holders but bring your
torically Christian Ramallah 120seat theatre and a library. passport and Israeli visa slip.
(it now has a Muslim majority) The foundation also runs
enjoys an active cultural life educational outreach A M Qattan Foundation
and is renowned for its lively programmes that focus ⌂ 22 Al-Jihad Street
nightlife, with plenty of trendy on the arts and science. ∑ qattanfoundation.org
pubs that serve alcohol. Ramallah is the de facto
The centre has a selection capital of the Palestinian Yasser Arafat Museum
of internationalstandard Authority, which is why Yasser " -= ⌂ Muqata'a
hotels and some of the best Arafat’s Tomb and the Yasser # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to
restaurants in the Palestinian Arafat Museum are here. 6pm during Daylight Saving
Territories; for local cuisine, Time) ∑ yam.ps
head to the area around
236-237_EW_Jerusalem.indd 237 19/12/2018 10:25
Around the 5th century, the
7 - 8 "' site became a monastery with
Palestinian Museum Herodion cells and a chapel, where you
can still see carved Christian
! B3 ⌂ Birzeit, 14 km ! B4 ⌂ Route 356, 12 km symbols. Also identifiable are
(9 miles) N of Ramallah (7 miles) SE of Bethlehem
@ # 10am–6pm daily § (057) 595 3591 @ To a massive round tower and
∑ palmuseum.org Bethlehem, then taxi three semi circular ones, ruins
# 8am–5pm daily (to 4pm of the palace baths, the
triclinium (dining room) and
Along with the A M Qattan
EXPERIENCE West Bank museum is one of two Dominating the land scape At the foot of the mound
Fri); closes 1 hour earlier
fragments of mosaics, all
Foundation in Ramallah
in winter
(p237), this independent
dating from Herod’s time.
modern Palestinian cultural
are the remains of the Lower
south of Bethlehem is the
volcano-like mound of the
institutions with a mission to
Herodion, with the dry
imprint of a large pool that,
Herodion, named for Herod
celebrate Palestinian culture.
Located next to the Birzeit
in Herod’s day, served as a
the Great. His circular fortified
University (BZU) campus,
not far from Ramallah, the
ornamental gardens.
for entertaining, and to mark
the defeat of Antigonus, his
museum is housed in a world- palace was built in 24–15 BC reservoir and centrepiece for
class building designed by a rival. It was long thought
Dublin firm of architects and this might also have been 9
is surrounded by lovely Herod’s mausoleum and,
terraced gardens. after extensive excavations, a Hebron
Although the Palestinian tomb believed to be his was ! B4 ⌂ 40 km (25 miles)
Museum has yet to fully grow discovered in 2007, though
into its spectacular, angular this has been disputed. S of Jerusalem @
campus, a number of small, During the Second Revolt in Nestled among hills south of
temporary exhibitions, hailed AD 132–5, the site became the Jerusalem, Hebron is one of
as being of international headquarters of the Jewish the most densely populated
standard, have already been leader Bar-Kokhba. In expec- towns in the West Bank. It is
curated, including one focus- tation of a Roman attack, the famous for its glassmaking,
ing on beautiful embroidered rebels turned its cisterns into which began in the Middle
Jellayeh coats. a network of escape tunnels. Ages and has always been
managed by one single family.
This coloured glassware can
Dominating the landscape south be found for sale in another of
of Bethlehem is the volcano-like Hebron’s major attractions, its
mound of the Herodian, named for medieval Arab souk, which has
some imposing Crusader-era
Herod the Great. vaulted passageways.
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A Hebron glass blower
shaping a fine piece
of coloured glass
However, Hebron is a town
undermined by troublesome
political tensions. It is divided
into two zones: the greater
area is governed by the
Palestinian Authority, but the
town centre is occupied by
Jewish settlers (p235). Large
numbers of Israeli soldiers
maintain a constant peace-
keeping presence. Friction
between the two communities
dates back to a 1929 pogrom
in which the Arabs massacred Around 20 BC, Herod the
Hebron’s centuries-old Jewish Great sealed the cave and
community. After the Six-Day built a great hall over it. Under
War of 1967, militant Jews Byzantine rule the structure DRINK
resettled the centre of town. was turned into a church
Tension continues to erupt and then, after the Arab
into occasional violence. For conquest of 638, a mosque. Taybeh Brewing
your personal safety, ask The Crusaders attempted to Company
about the situation before reclaim the site for Christianity Palestine’s oldest and
making a trip to Hebron. and built much of the present- largest brewery gets
Hebron is regarded as a day structure, but it was rave reviews for its
sacred place by the Jewish, completed by Saladin in the crisp, German-style
Christian and Muslim religions 12th century as a mosque. beers and Oktoberfest.
alike; it was here, they believe, In the 13th century, the ⌂ Taybeh # Brewery:
that Abraham buried his Mameluke ruler Baybars 8am–4pm Mon–Sat;
wife Sarah, in the Cave of forbade non-Muslims from tours: 9am–2:30pm
Machpelah, purchased from entering the building. ∑ taybehbeer.com
the Hittite Ephron. The Following the 1967 War,
cave then became his own the mosque remained Muslim, Birzeit Brewery
tomb and later that of his but access was granted to Amber ale, blonde
descendants Isaac and Jacob. Jews. Today, the complex, pilsner, stout and
known as the Tomb of the seasonal beers under
Patriarchs (Haram al-Khalil the Shepherds label are
in Arabic), is divided into a the specialities of this
synagogue and a mosque, family-run brewery.
each with its own entrance. ⌂ Birzeit # Noon–6pm
The site remains a subject Mon, Wed & Sat
of contention between the ∑ shepherds.ps
faiths; in 1994, Jewish colonist
Baruch Goldstein entered Snowbar
the mosque and killed 29 Long the hippest chill-
Muslim worshippers. out place in the West
Bank’s most secular
Tomb of the Patriarchs city, this bar and
§ (02) 996 5333 # 4am– nightspot attracts well-
10pm daily (except some off hipsters, creative
religious holidays and folk and families.
during prayer times)
⌂ Ein Sama’an,
Ramallah § (02)
296 5571 # 11am–
midnight daily
Sunrise illuminating the
ancient remains beneath
the mound of Herodion
239
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Walking through Petra’s spectacular Siq
PETRA AND
WESTERN JORDAN
Western Jordan was first inhabited in prehistoric
times, and by the 1st century BC had become
part of a major trading empire established by the
Nabateans, who constructed Petra as their central
base. Following the decline of the Nabateans,
the region came under the rule of the Romans,
followed in later centuries by the Byzantines
and the Crusaders.
This ancient bedrock that the country sits upon
belies the fact that modern Jordan itself is barely a
century old. Its land was only partitioned off from
Palestine in 1923, and became fully independent
in 1946, when the Hashemite kingdom of Jordan
was proclaimed. King Abdullah, the grandfather
and namesake of the current king, was Jordan’s
first ruler. It was the vision of the late King
Hussein, however, that saw the country truly
establish itself on the international scene. His
work to establish and maintain peace in the
region contributed greatly to Jordan’s reputation
as an anchor in the often-turbulent sea of Middle
Eastern politics. Despite the successive challenges
of the crises across the border in Iraq and then
Syria, it’s a reputation that still holds today.
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Nakhsholim
Nakhsholim
PETRA AND UMM QAISUMM QAIS As Suwayda'As Suwayda'
WESTERN JORDAN MegiddoMegiddo Merkhavya Merkhavya Irbid Irbid Dar'a Dar'a
Must Sees Khayim Khayim Al Husn Al Husn Salkhad Salkhad
Ma'oz
Ma'oz
1 Petra Pella Pella
2 Wadi Rum AJLUN AJLUN Al MafraqAl Mafraq
3 Amman NetanyaNetanya Tul Karem Tul Karem KurayyimahKurayyimah JERASHJERASH As SaliiiyahAs Saliiiyah
4 Jerash WES TWES T Sakib Sakib Bal'ama Bal'ama
5 Madaba Mosaics B ANKB ANK
Al HashimiyahAl Hashimiyah
Rosh Rosh
Experience More Tel Aviv Tel Aviv Ha-ayin Ha-ayin Qabalan Qabalan Marhab Marhab Qasr al HallabatQasr al Hallabat
Damiya Damiya
6 Umm Qais Ben GurionBen Gurion WEST BANKWEST BANK Az Zarqa’Az Zarqa’
7 Ajlun InternationalInternational p226 p226 Wadi as SirWadi as Sir AMMANAMMAN
Airport
Airport
8 Mount Nebo
9 Kerak RekhovotRekhovot RamallahRamallah Na‘ur Na‘ur Saiab Saiab
Jericho Jericho
10 Shobak Gedera Gedera Hisban Hisban Al MuwaqqarAl Muwaqqar
MOUNTMOUNT
11 Aqaba Beit Beit Jerusalem Jerusalem Queen AliaQueen Alia
International AirportInternational Airport
ShemeshShemesh NEBO NEBO
Efrata Efrata MADABAMADABA
MOSAICSMOSAICS
Qiryat Qiryat
Gat Gat Beit Beit Al 'ÁmiriyahAl 'Ámiriyah
Guvrin
Guvrin
Gaza Gaza
Dead Dead Dhiban Dhiban
Sea Sea
GAZA GAZA Netivot Netivot Karmel Karmel Ariha Ariha
Medit err aneanMedit err anean
Rahat
Rahat
Re'im
Re'im
Har Amasa Har Amasa Al Qasr Al Qasr
Sea Sea
Arad Arad
Be'er Be'er Al QatranahAl Qatranah
El Kharuba El Kharuba
Tse'elim Tse'elim Sheva Sheva Nevatim Nevatim KERAKKERAK
Neve ZoharNeve Zohar
El 'Arish El 'Arish ISR AELISR AEL
Bir el 'Abd Bir el 'Abd Dimona Dimona Al Mazar Al Mazar
El Mazar El Mazar
Muhayy Muhayy
Yeroham Yeroham Fifah Fifah
Sde
Sde
E G YPTE G YPT Nitzana Nitzana Boker Boker
Abu 'Aweigila
Abu 'Aweigila DEAD SEA ANDDEAD SEA AND At TafilahAt Tafilah
NEGEV DESERTNEGEV DESERT
p212 p212
Ar RashadiyahAr Rashadiyah
El Quseima El Quseima Mitzpe Mitzpe Jurf ad Jurf ad
Ramon Ramon Sapir Sapir Darawish Darawish
JORD ANJORD AN
Tsofar Tsofar
SHOBAKSHOBAK
Bir Hasana Bir Hasana
Bir Gifgafa Bir Gifgafa
Be'er Be'er
Menukha Menukha
PETRA PETRA Abu Jurdhan
Abu Jurdhan
Wadi MusaWadi Musa
Al Jafr Al Jafr
Ma‘an Ma‘an
Bir el Thamada
Bir el Thamada Dilaghah Dilaghah
GharandalGharandal
Al Murayghah
Ne'ot Smadar Al Murayghah
Ne'ot Smadar
Nakhl Nakhl
Yotvata Yotvata Jibal al Batra'
PETRA PETRA
AND AND
Jibal al Batra'
WESTERNWESTERN
JORDAN JORDAN Ramon InternationalRamon International
Airport
Airport
El Thamad El Thamad King HusseinKing Hussein
International AirportInternational Airport
30
Eilat Eilat Rum Rum 0 kilometres0 kilometres 30 N N
AQABAAQABA 0 miles 0 miles 30 30
WADI RUMWADI RUM
242-243_EW_Jerusalem.indd 242 23/11/2018 10:58
Nakhsholim
Nakhsholim
As Suwayda'As Suwayda'
UMM QAISUMM QAIS
Merkhavya Merkhavya Dar'a Dar'a
MegiddoMegiddo Irbid Irbid
Al Husn Al Husn
Ma'oz Ma'oz Salkhad Salkhad
Khayim Khayim Pella Pella
AJLUN AJLUN Al MafraqAl Mafraq
NetanyaNetanya Tul Karem Tul Karem
KurayyimahKurayyimah JERASHJERASH As SaliiiyahAs Saliiiyah
Sakib Sakib
WES TWES T Bal'ama Bal'ama
B ANKB ANK
Al HashimiyahAl Hashimiyah
Rosh Rosh Qabalan Qabalan
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv Ha-ayin Ha-ayin Damiya Damiya Marhab Marhab Qasr al HallabatQasr al Hallabat
WEST BANKWEST BANK Az Zarqa’Az Zarqa’
Ben GurionBen Gurion
InternationalInternational p226 p226
Airport Airport Wadi as SirWadi as Sir AMMANAMMAN
RekhovotRekhovot RamallahRamallah Na‘ur Na‘ur Saiab Saiab
Jericho Jericho Hisban Hisban Al MuwaqqarAl Muwaqqar
Gedera Gedera
MOUNTMOUNT
Jerusalem Jerusalem Queen AliaQueen Alia
Beit Beit NEBO NEBO International AirportInternational Airport
ShemeshShemesh
Efrata Efrata MADABAMADABA
MOSAICSMOSAICS
Qiryat Qiryat
Gat Gat Beit Beit Al 'ÁmiriyahAl 'Ámiriyah
Guvrin
Guvrin
Gaza Gaza
Dead Dead Dhiban Dhiban
Sea Sea
GAZA GAZA Netivot Netivot Karmel Karmel Ariha Ariha
Medit err aneanMedit err anean
Rahat
Rahat
Re'im
Re'im
Har Amasa Har Amasa Al Qasr Al Qasr
Sea Sea
Arad Arad
Be'er Be'er Al QatranahAl Qatranah
El Kharuba El Kharuba
Tse'elim Tse'elim Sheva Sheva Nevatim Nevatim KERAKKERAK
Neve ZoharNeve Zohar
El 'Arish El 'Arish ISR AELISR AEL
Bir el 'Abd Bir el 'Abd Dimona Dimona Al Mazar Al Mazar
El Mazar El Mazar
Muhayy Muhayy
Yeroham Yeroham Fifah Fifah
Sde
Sde
E G YPTE G YPT Nitzana Nitzana Boker Boker
Abu 'Aweigila DEAD SEA ANDDEAD SEA AND At TafilahAt Tafilah
Abu 'Aweigila
NEGEV DESERTNEGEV DESERT
p212 p212
Ar RashadiyahAr Rashadiyah
El Quseima El Quseima Mitzpe Mitzpe Jurf ad Jurf ad
Ramon Ramon Sapir Sapir Darawish Darawish
JORD ANJORD AN
Tsofar Tsofar
SHOBAKSHOBAK
Bir Hasana Bir Hasana
Bir Gifgafa Bir Gifgafa
Be'er Be'er
Menukha Menukha
Abu Jurdhan
PETRA PETRA Abu Jurdhan
Wadi MusaWadi Musa
Al Jafr Al Jafr
Ma‘an Ma‘an
Bir el Thamada Dilaghah Dilaghah
Bir el Thamada
GharandalGharandal
Al Murayghah
Ne'ot Smadar Al Murayghah
Ne'ot Smadar
Nakhl Nakhl
Yotvata Yotvata Jibal al Batra'
PETRA PETRA
AND AND
Jibal al Batra'
WESTERNWESTERN
JORDAN JORDAN Ramon InternationalRamon International
Airport
Airport
El Thamad El Thamad King HusseinKing Hussein
International AirportInternational Airport
30
Eilat Eilat Rum Rum 0 kilometres0 kilometres 30 N N
AQABAAQABA 0 miles 0 miles 30 30
WADI RUMWADI RUM
242-243_EW_Jerusalem.indd 243 23/11/2018 10:58
1 "'\-
PETRA
C5 ⌂ Wadi Musa, 260 km (160 miles) S of Amman
@ To Wadi Musa from Amman & Aqaba # Site: 6am–6pm
daily (to 4pm winter); museum: 9am–4:30pm daily
EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan Known as the “rose-red city”, its monumental façades reflect the
(to 5:30pm summer) ∑ visitpetra.jo
Hewn out of rocky mountains and sandstone gorges, this spectacular
Nabatean city is one of the world’s most atmospheric ancient sites.
swirls of colour that pattern the surrounding hills and valleys.
Petra’s marvellously preserved rock-hewn tombs and temples once encircled
a thriving metropolis. There has been human settlement here since prehistoric
times, but Petra was just another desert watering hole until the Nabataeans
(p251) arrived. Between the 3rd century BC and the 1st century AD, they built
a superb city and made it the centre of a vast trading empire. In AD 106, Petra
was annexed by Rome. Christianity arrived in the 4th century, the Muslims in
the 7th and the Crusaders passed through briefly in the 12th. Thereafter Petra
lay largely forgotten until 1812, when it was rediscovered by JL Burckhardt
(p249). The hiking here is excellent, and it is worth spending more than a day
at the site to fully appreciate all that Petra has to offer.
The City of Petra’s main street, with
the remains of the Temenos Gate
EXPLORING PETRA
It is about 1.5 km (1 mile) to Petra from the Visitor
Center at the site’s entrance, passing across the Bab
el-Siq valley and through the narrow Siq gorge to the
Treasury. From there the path leads into the Outer
Siq, which continues through the canyon and steadily
widens out before opening onto the large plain that
houses the City of Petra. Further monuments, including
the Monastery, sit atop the surrounding mountains.
You can wander the site of your own accord or arrange
a guide at the Visitor Center. It is worth investing in a
Jordan Pass (p276) before you travel, which includes up to
three days access to Petra, as well as your Jordanian visa.
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Must See
Did You Know?
Petra was the setting
for the final scenes of
Indiana Jones and the
Last Crusade (1989).
The breathtaking view
of the Treasury, as glimpsed
from the end of the Siq
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The Roman-style theatre,
carved into the mountainside
around the 1st century AD
FROM THE TREASURY TOP
TO THE THEATRE 3 TREASURY
TO THEATRE
FEATURES
Set deep in the rock and the Hellenistic Near East were
protected by the valley brought in to create it. A colos- Treasury Tholos
walls, the magnificent 1st- sol doorway dominates the The central figure on
century-BC Treasury creates outer court and leads to an the façade may be the
a formidable first impression inner chamber, at the back of Petran fertility goddess
of Petra. As its design had which is a sanctuary with an El-Uzza. Bullet marks
no precedent in the city, it is ablution basin – suggesting in the tholos and urn
thought that architects from that the treasury was in fact have been made over
a temple. the years by Bedouin
From the Treasury, the path attempting to release
leads into the Outer Siq, lined hidden treasure.
on both sides with tombs
of all sizes, some half buried Streets of Façades
by risen ground levels. The Carved on four levels,
these tightly packed
tombs display a range of
“intermediate” design styles, tombs may include
some of Petra’s
featuring a huge single-divide oldest façades. Most
crowstep (a set of steps on are crowned with
the top of a gable ), Hellenistic multiple crowsteps.
doorways and Classical pillars
and cornices. Theatre Vaults
At the end of the Outer To access the theatre,
Siq, in the midst of this great there were tunnels
necropolis, is the Classical either side of the stage.
Theatre. Started by the Inside, these were
Nabataeans and possibly dressed with painted
Walking through added to by the Romans, plaster or marble.
the Siq towards it was a project requiring
the Treasury advanced engineering skills.
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Must See
THE ROYAL
TOMBS
Carved into the base of
El-Khubtha mountain, a
short detour to the right at
the point where the Outer
Siq opens out on to Petra’s
central plain, are the Urn,
Corinthian and Palace Tombs.
They are collectively known
as the Royal Tombs, their
monumental size suggesting
they were built for wealthy or
important people, possibly
Petran kings or queens.
These tombs and their neigh-
bours are also remarkable The exteriors of
for the vivid striations of the Palace and
colour rippling through their Corininthian tombs
sandstone walls, an effect
heightened in the warm glow
of the late afternoon sun. its lack of symmetry, which
First in the sequence is the is particularly evident in
towering Urn Tomb, reached the different styles of the
by a stairway. Its name refers doorways. Beyond that sits
to a relatively tiny urn on top. the Palace Tomb, thought
Further along is the badly to be based on Nero’s
eroded Corinthian Tomb, Golden House in Rome. It
which seems to be modelled had a grandiose façade on
largely on the Treasury. five levels, which was taller The atmospheric
Its design has long baffled than the rock into which it interior of the large
archaeologists because of was carved. Palace Tomb
The striking façades
of the monumental
Royal Tombs
Three burial
Each doorway of the chambers are
Corinthian Tomb is in The central carved high
a different style. aperture contains in the façade.
The Palace Tomb is a statue of a man
the largest of all the wearing a toga.
Royal Tombs.
The Silk Tomb is In AD 447, the Urn
named for its walls, Tomb was turned Two levels of
Of the four inner streaked like shot silk. into a church. arches support
chambers, only the the Urn Tomb’s
middle two connect. large terrace.
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THE CITY
OF PETRA
Just past the Theatre, the
Outer Siq opens out into a
wide plain. The ruins of the
city of Petra are in the middle
of this vast basin, and the
EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan of the main street and a few The grand Roman-style The Temenos Gate,
path alongside the Wadi
Musa leads down to the site.
Today, fragmented remains
nearby buildings are almost
all that is left of the great city
that once filled the valley.
Cardo would have been
with the Royal Tombs
Petra’s main thoroughfare,
in the background
fringed with markets and
leading to the city’s most
sacred temple, the Qasr el-
of ornate plasterwork and
Bint. This building, like all the
marble veneer can still be
important structures around
seen on its walls and steps.
the Cardo, would have been lavishly decorated. Traces
The colonnaded Cardo,
which runs through
the centre of the city
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Must See
JOHANN LUDWIG BURCKHARDT Modern Museum
In 1812, after lying hidden for more than Among the exhibits are a marble basin with
500 years to all except local Arabs, Petra lioness handles found in Petra Church and a small
was rediscovered by an explorer called carved plaque of the Nabataean goddess al-Uzza
Johann Ludwig Burckhardt. The son of a City of Petra Highlights found in the Great Temple.
Swiss colonel in the French army, he was
an outstanding student with a thirst for Qasr el-Bint el-Faroun
adventure. In 1809, he was contracted ▶ The name “Palace of the Pharaoh’s
by a London-based association to Daughter” was a colourful
explore the “interior parts of Africa”. invention of Bedouin
Three years later, after intense study of mythology. The 1st-
Islam and Arabic, he disguised himself century-BC building was
as a Muslim scholar, took the name probably Petra’s main
Ibrahim ibn Abdullah and set out for temple, the huge slab
Egypt. On his way through Jordan, of stone at the foot
however, he was lured by tales of a lost of the steps being an
city in the mountains. To get there, he altar to the sun god
had to persuade a guide to take him. Dushara, chief deity of
Using the pretence that he wanted to the Nabataean pantheon.
offer a sacrifice to the Prophet Aaron,
he became the first modern Westerner Temenos Gate
to enter Petra. The site has sparked
travellers’ imaginations ever since. The imposing entrance to the sacred
precinct of Qasr el-Bint had freestanding columns
in front of its three massive, possibly metal-clad
wooden doors. It probably dates from after the
Roman annexation. The carvings of animal
deities on its capitals are a Nabataean slant
on an otherwise Classical design.
Temple of the
Winged Lions
The name refers to the winged lions on the column
capitals. It is also known as the Temple of al-Uzza
as it may have been dedicated to this deity. The
temple’s monumental entrance was reached by a
bridge across the Wadi Musa. Fragments of plaster
painted with dolphins and floral garlands suggest
rich interior decoration.
Petra Church
Superbly detailed 6th-century-AD mosaics adorn
the aisles of this once large Byzantine basilica.
A cache of 152 scrolls found here revealed details
of daily life in Byzantine Petra.
The Roman Cardo
The colonnades give the city’s main street a
Roman feel. They are thought to have been added
after the Romans annexed Petra in AD 106. The
street has been partly restored by Jordan’s
Department of Antiquities.
Great Temple
◀ The grand entrance to this
1st-century-BC site led into a
colonnaded lower precinct laid
with hexagonal paving stones.
Under the floor were extensive
water ducts and great stairways
swept up to a 600-seat auditorium.
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OTHER SITES AROUND PETRA
Many of Petra’s most famous The path winding down the other
sights can be visited in half side of Jebel Attuf into the Wadi Farasa
a day. However, having come
so far, it would be a pity not valley is a spectacular stepped descent,
sometimes with sheer drops.
to take the time to explore monuments along the way. Walk to the High
more of this unique capital
EXPERIENCE Petra and Western Jordan The climb to the Monastery – rock-cut terrace. Immediately Midway between the Treasury
of a vanished civilization.
Place of Sacrifice
Walk to the Monastery
Eventually you reach a wide,
and the Theatre, a rock-cut
one of Petra’s best preserved
to the right is the Monastery,
and most awe-inspiring
stairway leads to the top of
Petra’s most colossal temple,
monuments – is arduous, but
Jebel Attuf mountain. It is
dedicated to the deified king,
here, at 1,035 m (3,000 ft),
thoroughly worthwhile. The
Obodas I, who died in 86 BC.
Its powerful architecture is
path, which cuts through the
that one of the best-preserved
wadi, is paved in parts and
thought to date from the
of Petra’s many places of sac-
1st century AD. The interior
rifice is located. The gradual
features more than 800 rock-
cut steps. Do the walk in the
good head for heights, and is
afternoon, when the sun is
an arch-topped niche where
best attempted in the early
the altar stood. It came to
not directly in front.
A short detour off the main
be known as the Monastery
morning. The first part of
route, indicated by a signpost, has one large chamber with ascent requires stamina and a
because of the many Christian the summit is a large terrace
leads to the Lion Triclinium, crosses carved on its walls. with two 6-m (20-ft) stone
which has blurred leonine obelisks, possibly fertility
representations of the symbols, and the second is
goddess al-Uzza guarding the High Place of Sacrifice.
its entrance. After this, the Steps at the far end lead up to
path rises steeply; there are Did You Know? the main altar. The adjacent
occasional flights of steps and The imposing façade round altar has a basin with
several interesting carved a carved channel, which was
of the Monastery is possibly used for draining
47 m (154 ft) wide and the blood of animal and
40 m (131 ft) high.
human sacrifices.
The path winding down the
other side of Jebel Attuf into
the Wadi Farasa valley is a
spectacular stepped descent,
sometimes with sheer drops.
The first thing you see, carved
into the rock face, is the Lion
Monument, representing the
goddess al-Uzza. The path
then leads to the delightfully
secluded Garden Triclinium,
followed by the relatively
plain Broken Pediment Tomb,
named after its most striking
feature. Nearby is the elegant
Renaissance Tomb, with the
three urns above its entrance.
Past this point the Wadi Farasa
widens and the descent ends
in the main valley, not far
from the Qasr el-Bint.
The façade of the Monastery,
framed through a sandstone
rock formation
250
244-251_EW_Jerusalem.indd 250 23/11/2018 15:46
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and comprehensive maps for exploring this evocative region.
Tour the fascinating sites of Jerusalem's Old City, sample eclectic Israeli cuisine in vibrant Tel Aviv, or soak in the salty waters of the Dead Sea: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within color-coded chapters. Discover the best of the Holy Land with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Jerusalem, Israel, Petra & Sinai:
• Over 25 color maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of Jerusalem, help you navigate with ease
• Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
• Comprehensive tours and itineraries of the Holy Land designed for every interest and budget
• Illustrations and floor plans show in detail the Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem Archaeological Park, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Mount of Olives, the Israel Museum, Church of the Nativity, the astounding tombs and temples at Petra, and more
• Color photographs of ancient archaeological sites, religious buildings, cliff-hugging monasteries, beauty spots, picturesque vistas, and more
• Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Jerusalem (the Muslim Quarter, the Jewish Quarter, the Christian and Armenian Quarters, the Mount of Olives, the Mount of Zion, and Modern Jerusalem), the Coast and Galilee, the Dead Sea and Negev Desert, Petra and Western Jordan, and the Red Sea and Sinai
• Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the complex history of the region, religions and religious sites, celebrated visitors to the Holy Land, the landscape and wildlife, and festivals and events
• Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop, and sightsee, plus useful Hebrew phrases and transportation, visa, and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Jerusalem, Israel, Petra & Sinai is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to the Holy Land.
DK Eyewitness: Silver award winner in the Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards for Guidebook Series 2018.
"No other guide whets your appetite quite like this one." --The Independent
Planning a shorter break? Try our DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 Israel and Petra guide.
About DK Eyewitness Travel: DK's highly visual Eyewitness guides show you what others only tell you, with easy-to-read maps, tips, and tours to inform and enrich your journey. DK is the world's leading illustrated reference publisher, producing beautifully designed books for adults and children in more than 120 countries.
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