Bustling Ben
JERUSALEM Yehuda Street,
CITY CENTRE
a popular spot
for shopping
Locator Map
For more detail see p140
Historic Ha-Neviim
Street (p144)
was one of the
main avenues in No 58 Ha-Neviim Street,
Jerusalem during Thabor House, was
N A V O N VITAL DINOVICH MEYUKHAS A V O N N D A V I D Y E L L I N the 19th century. designed by the German The Ethiopian Church,
a modest basilica with an
Conrad Schick, one of the
D A V I D Y E L L I N
and pinks, is filled with
VITAL DINOVICH
VALERO VALERO SCHWARZ MEYUKHAS YOSEF BEN MATITYAHU RZ SCHWA YOSEF BEN city’s early architects. interior painted in blues
P I N E S
Mahane Mahane Y E H U D I T MATITYAHU Y E H U D I T P I N E S DAVID YELLIN glittery, golden icons.
ELIYAHU MANI HA DEKEL ELIYAHU MANI HA DEKEL ETS KHAYIM ETS KHAYIM HA - NEVIIM
Yehuda
Yehuda
DAVID YELLIN
BET YA’AKOV
BET YA’AKOV
MAHANE YEHUDA MAHANEMAHANE Davidka Davidka PRAGUE STRAU S S PRAGUE STRAU S S BNAI B RITH BNAI B RITH Ticho House (p144) is
MAHANE YEHUDA
HA - NEVIIM
a historic Arab residence
YEHUDAYEHUDA
that has been turned into
Davidka Davidka
Church Church
K I ’A K H K I ’A K H JAFFA ROAD EZRAT YISRA’EL YISRA’EL Thabor Thabor ETYOPYA ETYOPYA DEVORA HA-NEVI’A DEVORA HA-NEVI’A
A G R I P P A S
HA TUT HA TUT Square Square WALLENBERG WALLENBERG EthiopianEthiopian a lively cultural centre.
A G R I P P A S
KING GEORGE V EZRAT
House
House
JAFFA ROAD
E I L A T NISIM BAKHAR OVADIA SOMEKH E I L A T OVADIA SOMEKH HA KARMEL A G R I P P A S A G R I P P A S BARUKHOF BARUKHOF EVEN KING GEORGE V Ticho House H A - N E V I I M The end point of the walk is
Ticho
visible in the form of the three
H A - N E V I I M
House
NISIM BAKHAR
0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N S H I L O S H I L O EZRA REFA’EL S H I L O S H I L O EZRA REFA’EL YISRA’EL YISRA’EL Kikar Kikar Muscovite-styled domes of the
Cathedral of the Holy Trinity
Efrayim
Efrayim
G I V ’ O N G I V ’ O N MAZKERET MOSHE HA KARMEL MAZKERET MOSHE SHOMRON EVEN di Zahav di Zahav
0 yards 0 yards 300 300 RABI ARYE RABI ARYE (p144). Consecrated in 1872, the
HELENI HA MALKA
SHOMRON
HA-RAV AGAN
RAMA George church was built to cater to
HA- KHAVATSELET MONBAZ
TAVOR
R AMA R AMA TAVOR MESILAT YESHARIM A L I A S H YESHARIM YA’AVETS George HA- KHAVATSELET MONBAZ Russian pilgrims.
BE’ER SHEVA
RAMA BE’ER SHEVA
G R UZENBERG
MESILAT
GEVA GEVA NAKHLA’OTNAKHLA’OT SHOMRON MAZYA A L I A S H DOROTRI S HONIM YA’AVETS LUNZ S DOROTRIHONIM HA- RAV KOOK TIKHO HORKANOS HELENI HA MALKA G R UZENBERG
ELYASHAR
ELYASHAR
HA- RAV KOOK TIKHO HORKANOS
SQUARE LUNZ
Russian Russian
ZION
ZION
SQUARE
CompoundCompound
HA LEVANON
B E T S A L’ E L
B E T S A L’ E L
SHOMRON MAZYA
BEN YEHUDA
YIZRE’E L HA LEVANON YIZRE’E L BEN HILLEL BEN HILLEL BEN YEHUDA FeingoldFeingold Cathedral ofCathedral of The palm-filled Safra
the Holy Trinitythe Holy Trinity
King ( D E R EKH YAFO)
HA-RAV AGAN King ( D E R EKH YAFO)
Square is the forecourt to
RIVLIN
House
B E N Y E H U D A
B E N Y E H U D A HA-HISTADRUT HA-HISTADRUT S H A M A I S H A M A I RIVLIN SALOMON House KHESHIN KHESHIN FINISH the City Hall complex, also
Italian Italian NAKHALAT SHIV’A NAKHALAT SHIV’A home to the main tourist
SALOMON
SynagogueSynagogue information office.
HILLEL HILLEL City HallCity Hall S HIVTEI YISRAEL S HIVTEI YISRAEL
SAFRA SAFRA
JAFFA ROAD
SQUARE SQUARE
JAFFA ROAD
HILLEL
HILLEL
City City
Hall
Hall
YEDIDYA
YEDIDYA SHUSHAN SHUSHAN
Ben Yehuda Street START
(p142) is one of the city’s K O R E S H K O R E S H Former Barclays BankFormer Barclays Bank
main shopping streets. BEN SIRA BEN SIRA
SHLOMO HA-MELEKH The walk begins at the
SHLOMO HA-MELEKH
SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA
SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA
YANAI YANAI
Lively Nakhalat Shiv’a Feingold House was built Former Barclays Bank,
(p142) is one of the oldest in 1895 and features a series which was on the line that
parts of the modern city, of arched shop fronts. divided Arabs and Jews
founded in 1869. between 1948 and 1967.
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A LONG WALK
EAST JERUSALEM
Distance 2.5 km (1.5 miles) Walking time 45 minutes Orient House, an
Nearest station Damascus Gate Light Rail stop was the headquarters
elegant 1897 villa,
Difficulty Mostly flat
EXPERIENCE Jerusalem City Centre north of the Old City and east of the main north–south road government in 2001. SHKHEM DEREKH
of the Palestinian
East Jerusalem is the Palestinian Arab part of the city. It lies
Authority in Jerusalem
until it was shut
Derekh Ha-Shalom, swelling over the Mount of Olives and
down by the Israeli
down the other side. The main street is Salah al-Din Street,
which is visited as part of this walk. High-profile tourist sights
are few, but it is a vibrant area with many points of interest,
DALMAN
DALMAN
including Christian pilgrimage sights. It is also home to the
Holy Land’s most atmospheric old hotel, the American Colony
Hotel, whose beautiful courtyard café and welcoming cellar
DEREKH
SHKHEM
bar make excellent refreshment stops.
American
I B N
Colony Ho
VAN
VAN
The American Colony Hotel (p148) PAASSEN PAASSEN Colony Hoteltel American J UB A I R
I B N J UB A I R
was originally built as a home for a
wealthy 19th-century Arab merchant,
S T G E O R G E S T G E O R G E House House HATEM EL-TAWI HATEM EL-TAWI
but was subsequently sold to pilgrims ABU UBAIDA ABU UBAIDA
from Chicago, hence the name. Orient Orient MUHAMMAD
MUHAMMAD
EL-SALAH
EL-SALAH
Kings’
Tombs Kings’
Tombs
The admirably restrained interior of
St George’s Cathedral (p149) contains the St George’s ABU TALEB ABU TALEB
St George’s
royal arms formerly displayed in Government Cathedral S A L A K H W A N E L- S A F A
House during the time of British rule. I B N K H A L D U N I B N K H A L D U N
A K H W A N E L- S A F A
Shivtei Shivtei
Israel Israel
BAB EL-ZAHRA
Palestinian Pottery was founded back in 1922 BAB EL-ZAHRA
by the Balians, one of three Armenian families NABLUS ROAD NABLUS ROAD
I B N B AT U TA
brought over by the British authorities from Turkey Palestini Palestinianan I B N B AT U TA
to renovate the tiles on the Dome of the Rock (p74). Pottery Pottery S A L A H A L- D I N S A L A H A L - D I N - I S F A H A N I EL-AKH TA L EL-AKH TA L
IBN EL-AAS IBN EL-AAS E L- Z A H R A E L- Z A H R A E L - H A R I R I E L - H A R I R I
Claims for the Garden Tomb K H E I L H A - H A N D A S A K H E I L H A - H A N D A S A
(p147) as the burial place of St Etienn St Etiennee NUR EL-DIN NUR EL-DIN
Jesus have been dismissed NO’OMI KISS NO’OMI KISS Monaster Monasteryy
by archaeologists, but it still H A R U N E L - RASH I D H A R U N E L - RASH I D E L - M U Q D A S I E L - M U Q D A S I
attracts numerous pilgrims. PIKUD HA-MERKAZ (DER E KH SHKHEM) E L E L- I S F A H A N I
Cathedral A H A L- D I N S A L A H A L - D I N
IBN SINA IBN SINA Rockefell Rockefellerer Museum
Museum
Garden Garden
Schmidt’s Girls’ College Tomb Tomb
SULTAN SULEYMAN
is designed in fine Germanic Muslim Muslim SULTAN SULEYMAN
style by the same architect Cemeter Cemeteryy
behind Mount Zion’s Church HA-NEVIIM HA-NEVIIM Schmidt’s Schmidt’s
SULTAN SULE Y M A N
Girls’ College E Y M A N
of the Dormition (p126). Girls’ College
SULTAN SUL Herod’s Ga
PIKUD HA-MERKAZ (DER E KH SHKHEM)
Herod’s Gatete
Damascus Damascus
MUSLIM
Gate Gate MUSLIM AL-UMARI AL-UMARI
QUARTER
QUARTER
Damascu Damascuss
EL-BUSTAMI
The walk starts Gate Gate EL-MAWLAWIYA EL-MAWLAWIYA EL-BUSTAMI
at Damascus Gate START
(p82), the largest and
one of the busiest of
A mosaic in St George’s the Old City gates. 0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N
Cathedral showing the
Resurrection of Jesus 0 yards 0 yards 300 300
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JERUSALEM
CITY CENTRE
Locator Map
For more detail see p140
DALMAN DALMAN
The attractive courtyard
of the Rockefeller Museum
DEREKH
DEREKH
SHKHEM
SHKHEM
American I B N
Colony Hotel
Colony Hotel
VAN VAN American J UB A I R
PAASSEN PAASSEN
South of the cathedral, Salah
I B N J UB A I R
al-Din becomes a busy high
street with a clutter of low-
ABU UBAIDA
ABU UBAIDA
S T G E O R G E S T G E O R G E Orient Orient EL-SALAH HATEM EL-TAWI pharmacies and snack joints. Did You Know?
rise shops, moneychangers,
House
House
MUHAMMAD
MUHAMMAD
EL-SALAH
Kings’
HATEM EL-TAWI
Tombs
Tombs Kings’ In 1917, an American
ABU TALEB ABU TALEB Colony Hotel sheet was
St George’s
St George’s
Cathedral S A L A K H W A N E L- S A F A used as a white flag by
the Ottomans to surren-
der to the British.
A K H W A N E L- S A F A
Shivtei Shivtei
Israel Israel
I B N K H A L D U N
I B N K H A L D U N
BAB EL-ZAHRA
BAB EL-ZAHRA
I B N B AT U TA
Palestinian I B N B AT U TA
Palestinian
Pottery Pottery S A L A H A L- D I N S A L A H A L - D I N - I S F A H A N I EL-AKH TA L EL-AKH TA L
IBN EL-AAS IBN EL-AAS E L- Z A H R A E L- Z A H R A E L - H A R I R I E L - H A R I R I
NABLUS ROAD
NABLUS ROAD
H A R U N E L - RASH I D
NO’OMI KISS NO’OMI KISS St Etienne NUR EL-DIN NUR EL-DIN
St Etienne
Monastery
Monastery
E L E L- I S F A H A N I H A R U N E L - RASH I D FINISH E L - M U Q D A S I
K H E I L H A - H A N D A S A
K H E I L H A - H A N D A S A
Cathedral A H A L- D I N S A L A H A L - D I N
Rockefeller
IBN SINA IBN SINA Rockefeller Museum
E L - M U Q D A S I
Museum
Garden Garden End the walk at the
Tomb Tomb
SULTAN SULEYMAN
Muslim Muslim SULTAN SULEYMAN Rockefeller Museum
Cemeter Cemeteryy (p149), which is worth
a visit for its fascinating
Schmidt’s Schmidt’s collection of archaeological
SULTAN SULE Y M A N
Girls’ College E Y M A N
HA-NEVIIM
HA-NEVIIM
Girls’ College finds from the Holy Land.
PIKUD HA-MERKAZ (DER E KH SHKHEM)
SULTAN SUL Herod’s Gate
PIKUD HA-MERKAZ (DER E KH SHKHEM)
Herod’s Gate
Damascus Damascus
MUSLIM
Gate Gate MUSLIM AL-UMARI AL-UMARI
QUARTER
QUARTER
Damascus Damascus
Gate Gate EL-BUSTAMI EL-BUSTAMI
EL-MAWLAWIYA EL-MAWLAWIYA
START Herod’s Gate is known to the
Arabs as the far more poetic
Bab el-Zahra, or “Flower Gate”.
0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N
0 yards 0 yards 300 300
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Mahane Yehuda food market
Must See
1 Israel Museum BEYOND
Experience More
2 LA Mayer Museum THE CENTRE
of Islamic Art
3 Monastery of the Cross
4 Bible Lands Museum Since the creation of the state of Israel in
5 Knesset 1948, the boundaries of Jerusalem have greatly
6 Biblical Zoo expanded in all directions, with what were not
7 Yad Vashem too long ago small isolated villages evolving into
8 Supreme Court suburbs of the city. They have not, however, lost
9 Mahane Yehuda their character. Places such as Ein Kerem, nestled
and Nakhla’ot in the valley below Mount Herzl, and Abu Ghosh,
0 Mount Herzl and further to the northwest, have a great deal of
Herzl Museum rural charm, as well as several attractive religious
q Ein Kerem buildings linked with biblical events. The city has
w Chagall Stained Glass also been endowed with many significant modern
at Hadassah Hospital buildings, including the Israel Museum and the
e Abu Ghosh Knesset, both of which were built in the 1960s.
Abu RAMOT SHUAFAT
Ghosh ALLON
BET
NAKOFA MEVASERET Nakhal Tsofim
ZION
MOUNT
SCOPUS
EIN MOTSA ROMEMA
RAFA
Mahane Yehuda
BEIT and Nakhla'ot
ZAYIT
ZOVA
MOUNT
Mount Herzl and Supreme Court OF OLIVES
Herzl Museum OLD
Bible Lands Knesset CITY
Yad Vashem Museum
Israel Museum
Chagall Stained Glass Monastery of LA Mayer Museum
at Hadassah Hospital RAMAT of Islamic Art
Ein Kerem DENYA the Cross
EVEN GONEN
SAPIR
IR GANNIM
BEIT
0 km 2 N SAFAFA TALPIYOT
Biblical Zoo
0 miles 2
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1 "'\-=
ISRAEL MUSEUM
⌂ 11 Ruppin Rd, Givat Ram @ 7, 9, 14, 35 # 10am–5pm
Sat–Mon, Wed, Thu & hols, 4–9pm Tue, 10am–2pm Fri &
holiday eves ¢ Yom Kippur ∑ imjnet.org.il
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre material culture from prehistory to 21st-century Israeli artworks.
One of the world’s leading museums of art and archaeology, the
Israel Museum has a breathtaking collection representing human
Highlights include the Dead Sea Scrolls, artifacts found at Masada,
centuries-old synagogues and superb European paintings.
Built in 1965 on a ridge overlooking West Jerusalem, the Israel
Museum was designed by Israeli architects Alfred Mansfeld and
Dora Gad as a modernist reference to traditional Arab hilltop
villages. Thanks to its wide variety of sources, the collection is
extraordinarily eclectic. Its core was inherited from the Bezalel
School and Museum (Israel’s first arts academy) and the Israel
Antiquities Authority, and this has been supplemented by gifts,
loans and acquisitions from around the globe. The Jewish
Art and Life Wing presents the culture and art of the Jewish
diaspora, the Archaeology Wing provides a chronological
journey through the Holy Land and the Fine Arts Wing features
masterpieces from some of art’s most famous names. The
biggest draw for most visitors, however, is the Shrine of the
Book, which houses some of the world-famous Dead Sea
Scrolls (p159). The museum is also home to the Ruth Youth
Wing for Art Education, dedicated to interactive art activities,
and the Billy Rose Art Garden, which blends Western sculpture
with elements from Japanese zen gardens.
Admiring some of the works on
display in the Fine Arts Wing
Anish Kapoor’s Turning the
World Upside Down (2010) in
the Billy Rose Art Garden
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Must See
Must See
500,000
Objects are contained
within the Israel
Museum’s collection.
The Shrine of the Book, with
its contrasting white dome
and black basalt wall
The biggest
draw for most DESIGN OF THE SHRINE OF THE BOOK
visitors, however, Inspired by the lids of the jars in which the scrolls
is the Shrine of were found, the Shrine of the Book is a landmark
in design. The white dome and black basalt wall
the Book, which reference the battle between the Sons of Darkness
houses some of and the Sons of Light described in the War Scroll,
the world-famous while jets of water symbolize the ritual purity of
the community that wrote the scrolls.
Dead Sea Scrolls.
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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre JEWISH ART AND LIFE WING Examining Judaica from
around the world in the
Jewish Art and Life Wing
The museum’s collection
of Jewish Ethnography and Miscellany, a 15th-century repre sented in textiles,
jewellery, reconstructions
collection of biblical, legal
Judaica spans the period and other pieces. Elaborate of rooms and ritual articles
from the Middle Ages to the silverwork includes hadassim connected with life events
present, and has exhibits (spiceboxes used during the such as birth and marriage.
from as far afield as Spain ceremony of separation
and China. Five main sections between the Sabbath and the
integrate the sacred and start of the week) and the HIDDEN GEM
secular dimensions of Jewish rimonim (pomegranates that The Nuremberg
life from different cultures. decorate Torah scrolls in the Mahzor
Among the most precious synagogue). Another high- This large, illuminated
objects are the medieval light is the large collection Hebrew prayer book
illuminated manuscripts. of Hannukkiot – the oil lamps contains the Ashkenazi
These include a 14th-century that are lit for Hanukkah. yearly cycle of prayers,
German Haggadah (the story There are also four beau tiful, with commentaries,
read at Passover of the complete synagogue interiors. and a rare collection
Israelites’ liberation from The daily life of Jewish comm- of liturgical poems.
Egypt) and the Rothschild unities around the world is
FINE ARTS WING
The museum’s art collections produced in the 19th century,
cover a wide range of periods at the beginning of Jewish
and artistic disciplines. The resettlement. The 1920s
modern art collection has and 30s are represented by
international works from the figurative pieces by artists
1890s to the 1960s, including such as Reuven Rubin and
paintings by Gauguin, Chagall Yitzhak Danziger.
and Modigliani. Other rooms Other rooms are devoted
are devo ted to design, archi- to prints and drawings, Old
tecture and contemporary art. Master paintings, Islamic
The large collection of and East Asian art, and the
Israeli art begins with art of Africa, the Americas
paintings and drawings and Oceania. Pieces from
the Levine Photography
Collection are incorporated
into the other exhibitions in
Portrait of Jeanne this wing and build on the
Hebuterne, Seated (1918) museum’s long history of
by Amedeo Modigliani collecting photographs.
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Must See
Must See
ARCHAEOLOGY WING
The Archaeology Wing is the are the sophisticated gold
largest section of the museum. jewellery and the anthropoid
Most pieces are on loan from sarco phagi found at Deir el-
the Israel Antiquities Authority Balah in the Gaza Strip.
and come from excavations The Israelite Period (1200–
carried out all over the country. 586 BC) spans the rise of the
The digs cover a vast period Israelites to the destruction of
of history – from as far back Solomon’s Temple. Look out
as 1.5 million BC – and have for the ivory pomegranate
revealed artifacts from an inscribed with ancient Hebrew
impressive number of civili- and the priestly benediction
zations. Visitors will require written on a tiny silver amulet –
at least two hours to fully the earliest known fragment
explore the exhibits. of biblical text. A selection of ancient
The artifacts are arranged Finds from the next 300 artifacts on display in
chronologically. Objects to years are relatively scarce but the Archaeology Wing
look out for in the Dawn of the Hellenistic, Roman and
Civilization section include Byzantine periods (332 BC–AD
the jewellery and sculpted 636) offer fascinating objects, “Neighbouring Cultures”, with
figures of the Natufian culture such as the sarcophagi and artifacts from Egypt, Assyria,
and the elegant copperware ossuaries from Jewish cata- Babylonia, Greece and Rome.
of the so-called Judaean combs and beautiful mosaics. This wing also houses exhi-
Desert Treasure. Highlights The last room focuses on bitions on glass, early Hebrew
from the Canaanite Period “Muslims and Crusaders” and writing and coins.
SHRINE OF THE BOOK
DEAD SEA SCROLLS
In 1947, a Bedouin Built to house the Dead Sea that survived in its entirety.
shepherd discovered Scrolls and other important Its 66 chapters were written
jars containing seven artifacts, the intriguingly on strips of parchment, which
ancient scrolls. Over shaped Shrine of the Book were then sewn together to
the next two decades, has become a symbol of the a length of more than 7 m
fragments of some 800 whole museum. Inside, a long (23 ft). One of the surrounding
more were found in 11 passageway – designed to display cases contains part of
caves, and the nearby evoke the catacomb-like the real scroll.
settlement of Qumran environment in which the On the Shrine’s lower level
(p218) was uncovered. scrolls were found – has a are 2nd-century-AD articles,
The scrolls date to permanent exhibition on life such as keys and baskets.
between the 3rd in Qumran at the time the Also on display here is the
century BC and AD 68, scrolls were written. It leads 10th-century Aleppo Codex –
and some contain the into the main chamber under not one of the Dead Sea
oldest existing versions the dome, which contains a Scrolls, but the oldest
of biblical scriptures.
facsimile of the Great Isaiah complete Bible in Hebrew.
Scroll, the only biblical book Adjacent to the Shrine of
the Book is a Second Temple-
era model of Jerusalem. This
large-scale model offers
visitors a three-dimensional
view of the topography and
architecture of Jerusalem
during the 1st century.
The facsimile of the Great
Isaiah Scroll at the heart
of the Shrine of the Book
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EXPERIENCE MORE
made by Abraham-Louis
2 "' Breguet for an admirer of
LA Mayer Museum Marie Antoinette. Known Did You Know?
of Islamic Art as the Queen, it was stolen members elected in a
The Knesset, Israel’s
in 1983 in a mysterious
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre Wed, 10am–7pm Thu, 3 " but part of its mosaic floor
⌂ 2 Ha-Palmakh St
parliament, has 30
break-in and eventually
@ 13 # 10am–3pm Mon–
recovered in 2006.
districtless nation-
10am–2pm Fri & Sat
wide ballot.
∑ islamicart.co.il
This gem of a museum
Monastery
presents the artistic brilliance
of the Cross
of Islamic civilization with
illuminated manuscripts,
can be seen on one side of
⌂ Hayim Hazaz Ave
ceramics, metalwork and
The present-day complex
jewellery from the Arab
Mon–Sat (to 6pm in
world, Moorish Spain, Turkey,
was built in the 11th century
summer) ∑ jerusalem-
Iran and India. Another @ 32 # 10am–4pm the church’s main altar.
by Georgian monks; it was
patriarchate.info
highlight, if an incongruous later ransacked several times
one, is one of the world’s Surrounded by high stone but never destroyed. During
premier collections of clocks walls supported by massive Crusader rule, the monastery
and watches, including an buttresses, this fortified flourished and Georgia’s
extraordinary timepiece monastery spent the first national poet, Shota Rustaveli,
few centuries of its existence lived here, but by 1685 the
dangerously far from the Georgians’ fortunes had
Another highlight walls of the city (today it’s declined and the complex was
of the LA Mayer just a stone’s throw from sold to the Greek Orthodox
Museum of Islamic the Knesset). The complex Patriarchate. Today, the
is believed to stand on the
monastery’s frescoes show
Art, if an incongruous spot where the tree used by an unusual combination of
one, is one of the the Romans to make Jesus’s Christian, pagan and worldly
world’s premier cross grew. A Byzantine images. Particularly evocative
collections of clocks church that stood here in the of monastic life are the refec-
6th century was destroyed
tory on the upper floor and
and watches. by the Persians in AD 614, the kitchen.
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Exhibits in the Bible Lands
Museum illustrating the
contexts of Bible stories
features many finely crafted eternal flame commemorates
4 "'=- objects from ancient Egypt, the dead of the Holocaust and
Bible Lands Museum Syria, Anatolia, Mesopotamia Israel’s wars. The Knesset’s
and Persia. A great number of reception area was designed
⌂ 25 Avraham Granot the artifacts shed light on the by Russian-Jewish artist Marc
St, Givat Ram @ 9, 17, 24,
99 # 9:30am–5:30pm culture of the Mesopotamian Chagall. It is adorned with his
Sun–Tue & Thu, 9:30am– region in the millennia before mosaics and a triple tapestry
9:30pm Wed, 10am–2pm the Christian era. They include of the creation, the exodus of
the Israelites from Egypt and
ancient inscriptions, jewellery,
Fri, Sat & eves of Jewish
hols ¢ Jewish hols mosaics, seals, ivory carvings the city of Jerusalem. The
∑ blmj.org and scarabs. main chamber ends in a stone
wall – a very clear reference to
The exhibits in this rather the Western Wall (p90).
unremarkable building Tours are compulsory for
opposite the Israel Museum 5 ' visitors: call or email (tours@
(p156) are displayed in a way Knesset knesset.gov.il) in advance to
that enables the visitor to ⌂ 1 Kaplan, Givat book. Bring your passport
build a clear and illuminating Ram § (02) 675 3333 and dress modestly.
picture of the cultural context @ 14, 66, 99 # 8:30am–
in which the biblical texts 2pm Sun & Thu
were written. The items are
arranged according to both The seat of the Israeli
chronology and region. The Parliament takes its name
result is a clear illustration from the Knesset ha-Gedola
of the way in which different (Great Assembly) of 120 men
cultures influenced each other that governed the poli tical
and new societies evolved. and civic life of Jews in the
The outstanding collection Second Temple period. The
of archaeological finds building, opened in 1966,
reflects the cultures of the was designed by Joseph
Holy Land region in biblical Klarwin and inspired by the
times. The museum was Parthenon in Athens and
inaugurated in 1992 with reconstructions of the Temple.
the private collection of Elie Opposite the entrance is a
Borowski, a passionate scholar large menorah (candelabrum),
of ancient Middle Eastern symbol of the State of Israel.
civilizations. The collection It is the work of British sculptor
Benno Elkan and was a gift
from the British parliament.
The relief work depicts crucial
Interior of the Monastery of moments in Jewish history, The Knesset Menorah,
the Cross, with sturdy stone with biblical quotations. A in front of the Knesset
walls and sacred art nearby monu ment with an in the Park of Roses
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The intensely moving
Yad Vashem Holocaust
memorial and museum
6 "
Biblical Zoo
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre (to 7pm Jun–Aug), 9am–
⌂ Manahat @ 26A, 33, 99
# 9am–5pm Sun–Thu
4:30pm Fri, 10am–5pm
Sat (to 6pm Jun–Aug)
∑ jerusalemzoo.org.il
The Jerusalem Biblical Zoo,
also known as the Tisch
Family Zoological Gardens,
is famous for its collection of
wildlife featured in the Bible,
many of which are no longer
naturally present in the Holy
Land. There are bears, lions,
Nile crocodiles and Arabian
oryx, plus other endang ered and, above all, a monument by Jewish architect Moshe
species from around the world. to perpetuate the memory Safdie. The museum is one
The attractive site is in the of the more than six million long corridor, carved into the
southwestern suburbs. Jews who were killed in the mountain, with ten exhibition
Holocaust. More than 20 halls. Exhibits include some
moving monuments occupy 2,500 personal items donated
this hillside site. by survivors, adding a harrow
7 '\ Entrance to Yad Vashem ing firstperson dimension
Yad Vashem is along the Avenue of the to the horrors that began
Righteous Among Nations, with the rise of the Nazis in
⌂ Mount Herzl @ 10, 16,
20, 23, 27 # 8:30am–5pm which is lined with plaques 1933 and culminated in the
death camps.
bearing the names of Gentiles
Sun–Wed, 8:30am–8pm
Thu, 8:30am–2pm Fri & hols who helped Jews and, in doing The Hall of Remembrance
∑ yadvashem.org so, put their own lives at risk. beside the museum is a stark,
Some 23,000 people are tomblike chamber that bears
Yad Vashem, meaning “a recognized, including Oskar the names of 21 of the main
memorial and a name” (from Schindler (p126). The avenue camps on flat, black basalt
Isaiah 56: 5), is an archive, leads down to the Historical slabs. At its centre is a casket
research institute, museum Museum, which was designed of ashes from the cremation
ovens; above it is an eternal
flame. The Hall of Names
inside the Historical Museum
records the names of all those
Jews who perished, along with
as much biographical detail
as possible. Yad Vashem also
has a museum of Jewish art
and a visual centre where
films related to the Holocaust
may be viewed. Visitors must
dress appropriately – no
shorts or miniskirts.
Young visitors come
face to face with the
lemurs at the Biblical Zoo
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5,000
Jewish communities
destroyed in the
the lives of ordinary citizens. Holocaust are listed in
8 ' Its significance is reflected
Supreme Court in the building’s design, Yad Vashem’s Valley of
the Communities.
which manages to depict the
⌂ Shaarei Mishpat St,
Givat Ram § (02) 675 9612 concept of justice. The two
@ 14, 66 # 8:30am–2:30pm copper pyramids on the roof
Sun–Thu are powerful symbols of the Jerusalem’s main food, fruit
immutable nature of the and vegetable bazaar. It is a
In the absence of a formal principles of law. The long maze of covered alleyways
constitution, Israel’s Supreme sweeping stairway seems to lined with tables piled high
Court plays a pivotal role in represent the accessibility of with fresh produce, pungent
the law to ordinary people, spices and local delicacies,
and at the top it offers an all- where stall owners call out
embracing view of Jerusalem. to passers-by in sing-song
Motifs from the past, such as cadences. Top-quality eateries
SHOP Islamic elements in the inner have also moved into the
courtyard and a Byzantine-era
area, as have coffee shops,
mosaic by the entrance, recall bars and music venues.
Mamlechet HaHalva Israel’s cultural and historical To the south, across
Over 100 varieties of influences. They are given a Agripas Street, lies the
sweet crumbly halva. modern context to link the past neighbourhood of Nachla’ot,
⌂ A12 Etz Chaim St with the present and reflect where two-storey stone
the universality of justice. buildings, built around
Maerkaz Ha- courtyards, are linked by
Hamutzim Shimshon narrow lanes. Established
Olives, pickles, salads 9 in the late 1800s (around
and goat cheese. Mahane Yehuda the same time as Mahane
Yehuda), the area has long
⌂ 17 Mahane Yuhuda St and Nakhla’ot been home to Jews of North
African and Middle Eastern
Uzi Eli ⌂ Between Jaffa Rd origin. Nachla’ot is famous for
Juice Stand and Betzalel St @ 6, 7, its scores of small synagogues,
Fresh-squeezed 8, 13, 14, 18, 21, 74, 75 each following liturgical and
vitamin-packed elixirs. v Mahane Yehuda musical traditions brought
∑ machne.co.il
⌂ 10 HaEgoz St from places such as the Greek
Lying northwest of the city island of Ioannina, Melilla
centre triangle, Mahane (Spanish Morocco), Aleppo
Yehuda, or “the shuk”, is (Syria) and Shiraz (Iran).
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q It commemorates the Virgin
Mary’s visit to Elizabeth,
Did You Know? Ein Kerem mother of John the Baptist,
⌂ 7 km (4 miles) W who was then pregnant, an
Ein Kerem’s Spring of of central Jerusalem episode depicted in mosaic
the Virgin is named for @ 28, 184 on the church’s façade. Within
Mary, mother of Jesus, is a natural grotto, in front
who reputedly once John the Baptist, according of which are the remains of
to Christian tradition, was
Romanera houses. According
EXPERIENCE Beyond the Centre 0 "' picturesque village contains infant son to escape from the
drank from it.
born and lived in Ein Kerem
to tradition, the grotto is
where Elizabeth hid with her
(“the vineyard spring”). The
several fine churches and
Massacre of the Innocents
monasteries connected with
(the killing of all firstborn
Mount Herzl and
sons, ordered by King Herod).
his life. Recognizable by its
Herzl Museum
The courtyard walls are lined
tall, thin tower, the Franciscan
with tiled panels inscribed
Church of St John the Baptist
⌂ Mount Herzl @ 10, 16,
with the Magnificat (Luke 1:
dates from the 17th century,
20, 23, 27 # 8:30am–
but is built over the ruins
6pm Sun–Wed (to 7pm
of earlier Byzantine and
thanks, in 42 languages.
Thu, to 1pm Fri); call
Crusader structures. Steps
At the bottom of the hill
ahead ∑ herzl.org.il
inside the church lead down 46–55), Mary’s hymn of
below the church is a small,
Mount Herzl (in Hebrew Har into a natural cave, the Grotto abandoned mosque. Beside it
Hertzel) is a high hill north of the Nativity of St John, surfaces the spring (popularly
of central Jerusalem, named which tradition connects known as the Spring of the
after Theodor Herzl, the man with the birth of the Baptist. Virgin) from which the village
considered to be the founder The other church of note takes its name.
of Zionism (p51). The slopes is the twotiered Church of One of the other pleasures
serve as a large cemetery, the Visitation, completed in of Ein Kerem is its tranquil,
with Herzl’s tomb at the top 1955 to a design by Antonio wooded, valley setting. This is
of the hill. The site is the Barluzzi, architect of the best appreciated on a scenic
burial place of Israel’s presi Dominus Flevit Sanctuary walk that starts beside the
dents and three of its prime (p135) and the Chapel of sculpture at the beginning of
ministers, and also houses the Flagellation (p78). the access road to Yad Vashem.
the country’s main military
cemetery. The Herzl Museum,
at the site entrance, offers The picturesque village of Ein Kerem
a crash course in Zionist contains several fine churches and
history, with audiovisuals monasteries connected with the life
and recreations of Herzl’s
study and library. of John the Baptist.
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EAT
Mahneyuda
A magnet for foodies
from all over Israel,
drawn by the virtuoso
dishes and raucous
market atmosphere.
C4 ⌂ 10 Beit
Ya’akov St # 12:30–4pm
& 6:30–midnight daily
∑ machneyuda.co.il
ÒÒÒ
Nagy (Naji)
Renowned for its
kebabs, this place also
serves excellent
hummus, salads and
labneh, with plenty of
choice for vegetarians.
⌂ 4 Mahmou
Marc Chagall’s colourful Rashid St § (02)
stained-glass windows 533 6520 # 8am–
at the Hadassah Hospital midnight daily
ÒÒÒ
w "' e Sultan Sweets
Chagall Stained Glass Abu Ghosh and Café
at Hadassah Hospital This little coffee shop
⌂ 13 km (8 miles) W has first-rate kunafeh
⌂ Ein Kerem § (02) 677 of central Jerusalem (a sweet, gooey cheese
6271 @ 19, 27 # 8:30am– @ 185, 195, 387 pastry), baklava, home-
3:30pm Sun–Thu (call ahead made halva and strong
to arrange a visit) This Arab town, in the Judean Arab coffee.
Hills just north of the main
A splendid cycle of 12 stained- Jerusalem–Tel Aviv road, has ⌂ 29 HaShalom St
glass windows decorates the long maintained friendly §(02) 579 7044 # 9am–
synagogue at the otherwise relations with its Jewish 8pm Mon–Sat
unremarkable Hadassah neighbours. Named after ÒÒÒ
Hospital. They were created in a family from the Caucasus
1960–61 by the Russian-Jewish that settled here in the 16th
artist Marc Chagall, and then century, it is famed for its rival
installed the following year for hummus restaurants and its
the building’s inauguration. biannual vocal music festival. 5th-century church; some of
Each window represents The Crusaders believed the original church’s mosaics
one of the 12 tribes of Israel. this to be the site of Emmaus, can still be seen. The site is
Tradition associates each of where Jesus appeared to two said to be the location of the
the tribes with a symbol, a of His disciples in the days house of Avinadav, where the
precious stone and a social after the Resurrection. The Ark of the Covenant was kept
role, and these elements are beautiful, Romanesque-style after being liberated from
all represented in Chagall’s Church of the Resurrection, Philistine captivity before it
imagery and choice of colour. built in the mid-1100s by was taken to Jerusalem by
the Knights Hospitallers, is David (1 Samuel 7: 1–2).
remarkably well preserved. The town’s huge, Caucasian-
On the hill above the village style mosque, inaugurated
Statue of Our Lady meeting stands Our Lady of the Ark in 2014, was funded by the
Elizabeth at Ein Kerem’s of the Covenant Church, built government of the Russian
Church of the Visitation in 1924 over the remains of a republic of Chechnya.
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EXPERIENCE
ISRAEL AND THE
PALESTINIAN TERRITORIES
Salt crystals floating on the Dead Sea
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Tel Aviv .......................................................168
Mediterranean Coast
and Galilee ...............................................186
Dead Sea and
Negev Desert .........................................212
West Bank ...............................................226
Petra and Western Jordan .............240
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168-169_EW_Jerusalem.indd 168 23/11/2018 10:57
Watching the sunset from Tel Aviv’s shoreline
TEL AVIV
The port city of Jaffa (Joppa) was mentioned
in Egyptian documents as early as the 15th
century BC. According to the Hebrew Bible, the
cedars of Lebanon used to build the First Temple
were brought ashore here, and it was from Jaffa
that Jonah set sail shortly before being swallowed
by the whale. The New Testament tells of St Peter’s
sojourn in the city, which later in the 1st century AD
was destroyed by the Romans after it served as a
centre of Jewish resistance during the Great Revolt
(AD 66–70). The Crusaders conquered Jaffa in 1099
and, except for a brief interlude, ruled it for the
next 169 years. The city returned to Muslim rule,
although Napoleon made a brief appearance in
1799, when his soldiers destroyed the city and
massacred its Ottoman garrison. A short-lived
“American Colony” was founded in 1865 by
American Christians, who were followed by the
Templers, German Christians who established the
settlements of Valhalla (1869) and Sarona (1871).
The “garden city” of Tel Aviv was founded on the
dunes north of Jaffa in 1909, and its population
quickly swelled with Jews fleeing persecution in
both Palestine and Europe. Over the 20th century,
it became established as a vibrant, cosmopolitan
city, and today is home to the most dynamic
start-up ecosystem outside of the United States.
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MetzitzimMetzitzim
Beach
Beach
TEL AVIV 0 metres 0 metres 500 N500 N JABOTINSKY JABOTINSKY 0 km 10 km N 1 N North of the CentreNorth of the Centre
SDEROT LEVI ESHKOL
0 yards 0 yards 500 500 H A Y A R K O N H A Y A R K O N N A H U M S O K O L O W N A H U M S O K O L O W 0 miles 0 miles 1 1
Must Sees D I Z E N G O F F M A H A R A L D I Z E N G O F F M A H A R A L JABOTINSKY JABOTINSKY Beit Beit
1 Tel Aviv Museum of Art A R L O Z O R O F F I B N G A B I R O L I B N G A B I R O L SDEROT LEVI ESHKOL HatfutsotHatfutsot
Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv
2 Rothschild Boulevard YEHOSHUA BIN NUN YEHOSHUA BIN NUN UniversityUniversity
A R L O Z O R O F F
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv Ben-GurionBen-Gurion
Experience More Marina Marina House House A R L O Z O R O F F Eretz IsraelEretz Israel
MESADA
A R L O Z O R O F F
3 Rabin Square Ben-GurionBen-Gurion N A M I R MuseumMuseum
KING SOLOMON
BoulevardBoulevard
N A M I R
4 Dizengoff Street Medit err aneanMedit err anean ADAM HACOHEN W IE SE L MESADA ADAM HACOHEN KING SOLOMON Tel Aviv Tel Aviv
Port
Port
EMILE ZOLA
5 Dubnov Garden Sea Sea Gordon Gordon RUPPIN RUPPIN EMILE ZOLA B E N B E N HAKALIR E SE L W I HAKALIR area of main maparea of main map ROK ACH
I B N G A B I R O L
6 Tel Aviv Performing Arts Center Beach Beach GOTTLIEB G U R I O N GOTTLIEB G U R I O N HA DA SSA HA DA SSA ST RU CK I B N G A B I R O L ST RU CK ABA HILLEL ABA HILLEL
ROK ACH
7 Ben-Gurion Boulevard G O R D O N G O R D O N SHPINOZA SHPINOZA
H A Y A R K O N
8 Tel Aviv Port D I
F RUG
9 Charles Clore Park H A Y A R K O N B E N Y E H U D A MAPU B E N Y E H DOV HOZ U D A MAPU D I Z E N G O F F DOV HOZ F RUG HERMAN COHEN E S R EI N G O R D O N G MALKEI O R D O N MALKEI
HERMAN
COHEN
ISRAEL
Rabin
10 Tel Aviv Beachfront F R I S H M A N F R I S H M A N R EI NE S Z E N G O F F ISRAEL Rabin SDEROT DAVID HAMELECH W E I Z M A N N W E I Z M A N N
Square Square
SDEROT DAVID HAMELECH
11 Tel Aviv Marina Frishman Frishman RUTH F R I S H M A N F R I S H M A N DUBNOV ZE IT LI N NOV ZE IT LI N
Beach
RUTH
Beach
S HAUL HAM ELE K H
12 Metzitzim Beach H E R B E R T S A M U E L SIRK IN FRU G FRU G YAEL YAEL MANE Dubnov DUB Dubnov
Garden Garden
MANE
BERKOVICH
HOVEVEI TSIYON
13 Neve Tzedek SHALOM ALEICHEM SI SHALOM ALEICHEM DIZENGOFF DIZENGOFF S H TA N D S HAUL HAM ELE K H S H TA N D BERKOVICH Tel Aviv Museum
Tel Aviv Museum
SQUARE
S H A U L H A M E L E
A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y B E G I N
of Art
14 Sheinkin Street B E N Y E H U D A E R B E R T S A M U E L HOVEVEI TSIYON RK IN L UR IA L UR IA SQUARE BAR GIYORA E K H G E O R G E of Art S H A U L H A M E L E C H
S D E R O T H E N
S D E R O T H E N
TEL HAI
TEL HAI
15 Bialik Street TrumpeldorTrumpeldor H Dizengoff Dizengoff HA M E L BAR GIYORA E K H G E O R G E Tel Aviv Performing
Tel Aviv Performing
S H LO M O LAHAT P ROM EN A D E
Street
Street
Arts Center
Arts Center
Beach
Beach
16 Carmel Market B E N Y E H U D A HA NEVI' I M HA NEVI' I M NAHALAT YITSHAK
NAHALAT YITSHAK
17 Beit Hatfutsot B O G R A S H O V HA M E L I B N G A B I R O L Tzavta Tzavta
P IN SKE R
B O G R A S H O V
TCHERNICHOVSKY
18 Meir Garden JerusalemJerusalem S H LO M O LAHAT P ROM EN A D E P IN SKE R TRUMPLEDOR TRUMPLEDOR D I Z E N G O F F DUBNOV DUBNOV D E R E C H M E N A H E M B E G I N C H
Beach
Beach
Beit
Beit
19 Eretz Israel Museum Ha’ir TCHERNICHOVSKY Meir Meir Charles Bronfmanronfman L EO N AR DO D Y I G A L A L O N I G H W A Y
D I Z E N G O F F
Ha’ir
I B N G A B I R O L
SDEROT
Charles B
TARSAT
TARSAT
20 Nachalat Binyamin A L L E N B Y A L L E N B Y Garden Garden SDEROT BEN TSIYON SDEROT Auditorium L EO N AR DO DA VINC I K A P L A N K A P L A N D E R E C H M E N A H E M
Auditorium
Bialik Street
RAV ALUF DAVID ELAZAR A LDO AR AN H A
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv YONA HANAVI YONA HANAVI Bialik Street HaBima HaBima Sarona Sarona Y I G A L A L O N
SDEROT BEN TSIYON
Beachfront
Eat Beachfront KEREM KEREM Reuven Reuven PERETS HAYUT PERETS HAYUT Theatre Theatre Market Market RAV ALUF DAVID ELAZAR A Y A L O N H
L A SKOV
1 Pastel Ge’ula Ge’ula HATAYMANIMHATAYMANIM HAM E LE KH G EO RGE R A S H I G EO RGE R A S H MARMOREK MARMOREK L A SKOV
Rubin
Rubin
OSVA LDO AR AN H A A VINC I
HAM E LE KH
MELCHETT
2 Alena Beach Beach MuseumMuseum MELCHETT I HAHASHMONA'IM BILU BILU HA AARBA HA AARBA
HAHASHMONA'IM
House R O T H S C H I L D
3 Kitchen Market H E R B E R T S A M U E L H E R B E R T S A M U E L H A KOSH EV I M H A KOSH EV I M RABI MEIR MERKAZ BA'ALEI MELAHA OSV SDEROT YEHUDIT TUVAL ST TUVAL ST
SDEROT YEHUDIT
MERKAZ BA'ALEI MELAHA
S H E I N K I N
S H E I N K I N
H A HA
4 HaAchim DolphinariumDolphinarium H A Y A R K O N H A Y A R K O N Carmel Carmel AHAD HA'AM STREET R O T H S C H I L D AHAD HA'AM STREET HA HA SHMO NA' I M SHMO NA' I M
HASANDLAR
HASANDLAR
Beach
Beach
YOHANAN
RABI MEIR
YOHANAN
5 HaBasta YEMENITEYEMENITE Market Market SheinkinSheinkin Rabinsky Rabinsky C A R L E B A C H GERS HO N S HATS
GERS HO N S HATS
House
QUARTERQUARTER
HACARMEL
Street
Street
HaKovshim HAKOSHEVIM
Chelouch
Stay HAKOSHEVIM DAN IE L C ARMELIT HACARMEL A LL E NBY Chelouche Gallerye Gallery L I NC ALEVI S E A DIA GAON L I NC S E A DIA GAON H A M A S G E R H A M A S G E R
YEHUDA HALEVI
C A R L E B A C H
for Contemporary Art
for Contemporary Art
DAN IE L
Ha
D E R E C H M E N A H E M B E G I N
6 Hotel Montefiore Hassan Bekssan Bek C ARMELIT HaKovshim KALISCHER BALFOUR ZEH BALFOUR HAMELACHA B E G I N S ON CI NO S ON CI NO KREMENETSKI KREMENETSKI
GRUZENBERG
Mosque Mosque
A LL E NBY
M A
7 Arbel Suites Hotel YA'AVETS YA'AVETS GRUZENBERG YA V N E NACHMANI E NACHMANI YEHUDA H WILSON OL N WILSON OL N HAMELACHA B EIT AL FA
DAV D E R E C H M E N A H E M
M AZEH
KALISCHER
YA V N
B EIT AL FA
8 Tal by the Beach Clore LOMO LAH A T PROMENADE YOSEF LEVI YOSEF LEVI MAZE H MAZE H Y I T S H A K S A D E H
MONTEFIORE
Y I T S H A K S A D E H
9 Abraham Hostel SHLOMO LAH A T PROMENADE YITS H AK ELHANAN MONTEFIORE Binyamin Binyamin Rothschild Rothschild NACHMANI B E I T OVE D B E I T OVE D Y I G A L A L O N Y I G A L A L O N
Boulevard Boulevard
NachalatNachalat
H A M E R E D
YITS H AK ELHANAN
Charles Charles
A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y
NACHMANI
YITSHAK SADEH
Shop Park SH K A U F M A N Clore K A U F M A N H A M E R E D EIN YA'AKO V P IN ES EIN YA'AKO V P IN ES HERZL HERZL ROTHSCHILD ROTHSCHILD DAV YITSHAK SADEH
Park
NAHALAT BINYAMIN
NAHALAT BINYAMIN
RIVAL SHBERG ID H A HAM I
0 Nachalat Binyamin SHABAZI SHABAZI Independence HARAKKEVET HARAKKEVET ELI A SHBERG ID H A HAM I RIVAL H A M A S G E R HO M A U M IG DA L H A M A S G E R HO M A U M IG DA L
SHADAL
SHADAL
Independence
Arts and Crafts Fair Alma Alma Hall Hall MIKVEH ISRAEL MIKVEH ISRAEL GAN ELI A A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y
GAN
Beach Beach NEVE TZEDEKNEVE TZEDEK LILIENBLUM LILIENBLUM YEHUDA HALEVI H A H A S H M A L H A H A S H M A L HAHASHMAL YA D H A RU TSIM YAD YAD
HAHASHMAL
YEHUDA HALEVI
YA D H A RU TSIM
BARZILAI
BARZILAI
SDEROT YAD LABANIM
Etzel Etzel Suzanne Dellal PI NE S PI NE S H AT SF I R A H AT SF I R A ELIYAHUELIYAHU SDEROT YAD LABANIM
Suzanne Dellal
Nev
MuseumMuseum HaTachanaHaTachana AMZ A LEG Neve Tzedeke Tzedek H E RZ L HAS HU K J A F F A J A F F A H A S H O M RON AG D U D H A I V R I H A R A K K E V E T HAGRA
Centre
Centre
H A S H O M RON
SIMTAT SHLUSH AMZ A LEG
H
J A F F A
J A F F A
H A R A K K E V E T
BNEI BRAK
HOMAT H AYAM P RO M EN A D E HOMAT H AYAM P RO M EN SIMTAT SHLUSH HARAV YITSHAK YED IDYA FRENKEL T B I N YA M I N HAHALUTZIM L E V I N S K I L MATALO N BNEI BRAK EIGER L EVAN DA R O S H P I
DAVID RAZIEL E R U S H A L A Y I M A D E
Y L
H E RZ L
R O S H P I N A
MATALON
N A H AL A T B I N YA M I N
MATALON
H A A L I Y A
H A A L I Y A
HAHALUTZIMHAS HU K
EIGER
H AG D U D H A I V R I PE RE T S
G O L D M A N
G O L D M A N
House ARABI MIBACHRACH
Y L PE RE T S E V I N S K I
WOLFSON
WOLFSON
SDEROT HAR TSIYON
SDEROT HAR TSIYON
E I L A T
Maine
MATALO N
Maine
H A M EHOGA A M EHOGA
Andromeda’sAndromeda’s DAVID RAZIEL E R U S H A L A Y I M E I L A T HARABI MIBACHRACH H ABARBA NE L HARAV YITSHAK YED IDYA FRENKEL HAGDUD HAIVRI HAGDUD HAIVRI NAVE SHA'ANAN H A M A S G E R L EVAN DA H A M
EmanuelEmanuel
Friendship Friendship
Rock Rock Church Church House ABARBA NE L ELI FELE T FLORENTIN FLORENTIN CH LENOV WOLFSON ENOV WOLFSON LE VI N LE VI N
HAGRA YESOD HAMA'AL A
CH L
NAVE SHA'ANAN
YESOD HAMA'AL A
Y E R U S H A L A Y I M Y
Y E R U S H A L A Y I M Y
Central
Central
Monastery Monastery Jaffa Jaffa POR I Y A POR I Y A H ELI FELE T HAKISHON HAKISHON N A H AL A Bus StationBus Station TEL AVIVTEL AVIV
Mamoudiyya
Slope Park Slope Park
of St. Peter of St. Peter Summit Mamoudiyya Flea S H HA SHA H HA SHA H TSEMACH DAVID S K I TSEMACH DAVID S K I
Mosque Mosque
S H L O M O S H L O M O
KEDUMIMHNIYA
RETSIF HAALIYA HASHNIYA SQUARE RETSIF HAALIYA HAS Garden Y E F E T Garden Y E F E T OL E I ZI O N OL E I ZI O N SHE'ERIT ISRAEL A M ETS HANANEL HANANEL HER Z L HER SC H OCK E N Z L BAR YOHAI BAR
ETSYON GEVER L O M O S H L O M O
Summit
Flea
ETSYON GEVER
H A TSORFIM
KEDUMIM
H A TSORFIM
SQUARE
Market Market
A M ETS
HIZKIYAHU HAMELECH
HIZKIYAHU HAMELECH
RABENU
RABENU
SC H OCK E N
Artists’
Artists’
IS R AE L MI SALANT
Quarter
Quarter
YE HUDA MERAGUSA
SHE'ERIT ISR
SH LA BIM
HATKUMA
Stadium
Stadium
Jaffa Jaffa JAFFA JAFFA YE HUDA MERAGUSA HATKUMA Bloomfield Bloomfield SH LA BIM AEL K I B B U T Z G A L U Y O T SDEROT HAR TSIYON HOVOT HALEVAVOT SDEROT HAR TSIYON M ESI L AT Y ESH ARI M HOVOT HALEVAVOT M E K O
Groningen Groningen
Port Port Garden Garden
K I B B U T Z G A L U Y O T
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MetzitzimMetzitzim
N A H U M S O K O L O W
Beach Beach
0 metres 0 metres 500 N500 N JABOTINSKY JABOTINSKY 0 km 10 km N 1 N North of the CentreNorth of the Centre
H A Y A R K O N H A Y A R K O N D I Z E N G O F F M A H A R A L D I Z E N G O F F N A H U M S O K O L O W M A H A R A L JABOTINSKY JABOTINSKY SDEROT LEVI ESHKOL HatfutsotHatfutsot
SDEROT LEVI ESHKOL
0 yards 0 yards 500 500 0 miles 0 miles 1 1
Beit
Beit
Tel Aviv
Tel Aviv
A R L O Z O R O F F
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv A R L O Z O R O F F YEHOSHUA BIN NUN YEHOSHUA BIN NUN I B N G A B I R O L I B N G A B I R O L UniversityUniversity
Marina Marina Ben-GurionBen-Gurion
House House A R L O Z O R O F F Eretz IsraelEretz Israel
MESADA
Ben-GurionBen-Gurion N A M I R MuseumMuseum
A R L O Z O R O F F
ADAM HACOHEN
N A M I R
Medit err aneanMedit err anean BoulevardBoulevard W IE SE L MESADA ADAM HACOHEN Tel Aviv Tel Aviv
Port
Port
Sea Sea B E N B E N KING SOLOMON HAKALIR E SE L W I KING SOLOMON ROK ACH
I B N G A B I R O L
Gordon Gordon RUPPIN RUPPIN EMILE ZOLA EMILE ZOLA HAKALIR area of main maparea of main map
Beach Beach G O R D O N G O R D O N GOTTLIEB G U R I O N GOTTLIEB G U R I O N HA DA SSA HADA SSA ST RU CK I B N G A B I R O L ST RU CK ABA HILLEL ABA HILLEL
SHPINOZA
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SHPINOZA
H A Y A R K O N B E N Y E H U D A MAPU B E N Y E H DOV HOZ U D A MAPU D I Z E N G O F F DOV HOZ F RUG D I HERMAN COHEN E S R EI N G O R D O N G MALKEI O R D O N MALKEI
H A Y A R K O N
F RUG
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H E R B E R T S A M U E L SIRK IN SHALOM ALEICHEM SI SHALOM ALEICHEM FRU G DIZENGOFF DIZENGOFF S HAUL HAM ELE K H S H TA N D YAEL S HAUL HAM ELE K H S H TA N D MANE MANE Dubnov Tel Aviv Museum
COHEN
ISRAEL
Rabin
Square Square
SDEROT DAVID HAMELECH
Frishman Frishman F R I S H M A N F R I S H M A N R EI NE S Z E N G O F F F R I S H M A N F R I S H M A N Rabin ISRAEL SDEROT DAVID HAMELECH W E I Z M A N N W E I Z M A N N
Beach Beach RUTH RUTH DUBNOV ZE I T LI N NOV ZE I T LI N
Dubnov DUB
Garden Garden
YAEL
BERKOVICH
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Tel Aviv Museum
BAR GIYORA E K H G E O R G E
HA M E L BAR GIYORA E K H G E O R G E
L UR IA
SQUARE
A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y B E G I N
S H A U L H A M E L E
of Art
of Art
S D E R O T H E N
TEL HAI
Tel Aviv Performing
TrumpeldorTrumpeldor H B E N Y E H U D A E R B E R T S A M U E L HOVEVEI TSIYON RK IN L UR IA Dizengoff Dizengoff SQUARE TEL HAI Tel Aviv Performing BERKOVICH S H A U L H A M E L E C H
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Street
Arts Center
Beach Beach B E N Y E H U D A B O G R A S H O V Street HA M E L HA NEVI' I M S D E R O T H E N Arts Center NAHALAT YITSHAK
HA NEVI' I M
NAHALAT YITSHAK
B O G R A S H O V
TCHERNICHOVSKY
JerusalemJerusalem TRUMPLEDOR TRUMPLEDOR D E R E C H M E N A H E M B E G I N C H
Beach Beach Ha’ir TCHERNICHOVSKY Meir Meir D I Z E N G O F F Charles Bronfmanronfman L EO N AR DO D K A P L A N K A P L A N D E R E C H M E N A H E M Y I G A L A L O N I G H W A Y
Beit
Beit
D I Z E N G O F F
Ha’ir
DUBNOV
SDEROT
I B N G A B I R O L
DUBNOV
Charles B
TARSAT
TARSAT
Auditorium
A L L E N B Y
A L L E N B Y
HaBima HaBima
Bialik Street
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv YONA HANAVI YONA HANAVI Bialik Street Garden Garden SDEROT BEN TSIYON SDEROT Auditorium L EO N AR DO DA VINC I RAV ALUF DAVID ELAZAR A LDO AR AN H A Y I G A L A L O N
SDEROT BEN TSIYON
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Beachfront KEREM KEREM Reuven Reuven PERETS HAYUT PERETS HAYUT Theatre Theatre Sarona Sarona RAV ALUF DAVID ELAZAR A Y A L O N H
Market Market
L A SKOV
H E R B E R T S A M U E L H E R B E R T S A M U E L MERKAZ BA'ALEI MELAHA MELCHETT HA AARBA HA AARBA OSV SDEROT YEHUDIT TU VA L ST TU VA L ST
Rubin
Rubin
Ge’ula Ge’ula HATAYMANIMHATAYMANIM HAM E LE KH G EO RGE R A S H I G EO RGE R A S H MARMOREK MARMOREK L A SKOV
HAM E LE KH
Beach Beach MuseumMuseum MELCHETT I HAHASHMONA'IM BILU BILU OSVA LDO AR AN H A A VINC I
HAHASHMONA'IM
AHAD HA'AM STREET
H A Y A R K O N
SDEROT YEHUDIT
MERKAZ BA'ALEI MELAHA
DolphinariumDolphinarium H A Y A R K O N H A KOSH EV I M H A KOSH EV I M RABI MEIR S H E I N K I N S H E I N K I N House R O T H S C H I L D HA HA SHMO NA' I M SHMO NA' I M
H A HA
HASANDLAR
HASANDLAR
Beach Beach YEMENITEYEMENITE Carmel Carmel SheinkinSheinkin R O T H S C H I L D AHAD HA'AM STREET House C A R L E B A C H C A R L E B A C H GERSH ON SHATS
YOHANAN
YOHANAN
RABI MEIR
Rabinsky Rabinsky
Market Market
GERSH O N S H AT S
QUARTERQUARTER
Street
Street
HACARMEL
HAKOSHEVIM DAN IE L C ARMELIT HACARMEL A LL E NBY Chelouche Gallerye Gallery L I NC ALEVI S E A DIA GAON L I NC S E A DIA GAON H A M A S G E R H A M A S G E R
HaKovshim HAKOSHEVIM
Chelouch
YEHUDA HALEVI
S ON CI NO
for Contemporary Art
for Contemporary Art
DAN IE L
Ha
D E R E C H M E N A H E M B E G I N
Hassan Bekssan Bek C ARMELIT HaKovshim KALISCHER GRUZENBERG YA V N E NACHMANI E NACHMANI BALFOUR ZEH BALFOUR YEHUDA H WILSON OL N WILSON OL N HAMELACHA B E G I N HAMELACHA S ON CI NO KREMENETSKI KREMENETSKI
GRUZENBERG
Mosque Mosque
A LL E NBY
SHLOMO LAH A T PROMENADE Clore YOSEF LEVI YOSEF LEVI EIN YA'AKO V YITS H AK ELHANAN MONTEFIORE HERZL Binyamin Binyamin Rothschild Rothschild NACHMANI DAV Y I T S H A K S A D E H B EIT AL FA Y I G A L A L O N YITSHAK SADEH
Clore LOMO LAH A T PROMENADE
M A
DAV D E R E C H M E N A H E M
M AZEH
KALISCHER
YA V N
Y I G A L A L O N
B EIT AL FA
YA'AVETS
YA'AVETS
MONTEFIORE
MAZE H
MAZE H
Y I T S H A K S A D E H
Boulevard Boulevard
NachalatNachalat
H A M E R E D
H A M E R E D
ROTHSCHILD
YITS H AK ELHANAN
ROTHSCHILD
EIN YA'AKO V
Charles Charles
A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y
NACHMANI
B E I T OVE D
B E I T OVE D
YITSHAK SADEH
HO M A U M IG DA L
HO M A U M IG DA L
H A M A S G E R
H A M A S G E R
Park SH
NAHALAT BINYAMIN
NAHALAT BINYAMIN
P IN ES
HERZL
P IN ES
ELI A SHBERG ID H A HAM I
HARAKKEVET HARAKKEVET
Independence
RIVAL
MIKVEH ISRAEL
Hall
Hall
ELI A
GAN
Alma Alma K A U F M A N Park K A U F M A N SHABAZI SHABAZI Independence SHADAL BARZILAI SHADAL BARZILAI MIKVEH ISRAEL GAN RIVAL SHBERG ID H A HAM I A Y A L O N H I G H W A Y
Beach Beach NEVE TZEDEKNEVE TZEDEK LILIENBLUM LILIENBLUM YEHUDA HALEVI H A H A S H M A L H A H A S H M A L HAHASHMAL YA D HA RU TSIM YAD YAD
YEHUDA HALEVI
HAHASHMAL
YA D HA RU TSIM
Etzel Etzel Suzanne Dellal PI NE S PI NE S H AT SF I R A H AT SF I R A ELIYAHUELIYAHU SDEROT YAD LABANIM
SDEROT YAD LABANIM
Suzanne Dellal
Nev
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Centre
Centre
H A S H O M RON
SIMTAT SHLUSH AMZ A LEG
H
J A F F A
J A F F A
HAHALUTZIM
H A R A K K E V E T
BNEI BRAK
HOMAT H AYAM P RO M EN A D E HOMAT H AYAM P RO M EN SIMTAT SHLUSH HARAV YITSHAK YED IDYA FRENKEL T B I N YA M I N L E V I N S K I L MATALO N BNEI BRAK EIGER L EVAN DA R O S H P I N A LA GUARDIA LA GUARDIA
DAVID RAZIEL E R U S H A L A Y I M A D E
Y L
H E RZ L
R O S H P I N A
MATALON
N A H AL A T B I N YA M I N
MATALON
H A A L I Y A
H A A L I Y A
HAHALUTZIMHAS HU K
H AG D U D H A I V R I PE RE T S
EIGER
G O L D M A N
G O L D M A N
Y L PE RE T S E V I N S K I
House ARABI MIBACHRACH
WOLFSON
WOLFSON
SDEROT HAR TSIYON
SDEROT HAR TSIYON
E I L A T
Maine
MATALO N
Maine
H A M EHOGA A M EHOGA
Andromeda’sAndromeda’s DAVID RAZIEL E R U S H A L A Y I M E I L A T HARABI MIBACHRACH H ABARBA NE L HARAV YITSHAK YED IDYA FRENKEL HAGDUD HAIVRI NAVE SHA'ANAN HAGDUD HAIVRI NAVE SHA'ANAN H A M A S G E R L EVAN DA H A M A S G E
EmanuelEmanuel
Friendship Friendship
Rock Rock Church Church House ABARBA NE L ELI FELE T FLORENTIN FLORENTIN CH LENOV WOLFSON ENOV WOLFSON LE VI N LE VI N
CH L
Y E R U S H A L A Y I M Y
Y E R U S H A L A Y I M Y
YESOD HAMA'AL A
HAGRA YESOD HAMA'AL A
Central
Central
Monastery Monastery Jaffa Jaffa POR I Y A POR I Y A H ELI FELE T HAKISHON HAKISHON N A H AL A Bus StationBus Station TEL AVIVTEL AVIV
Mamoudiyya
Slope Park Slope Park
of St. Peter of St. Peter Summit Mamoudiyya Flea S H HASH AH H ASH AH TSEMACH DAVID S K I TSEMACH DAVID S K I
Mosque Mosque
S H L O M O S H L O M O
RETSIF HAALIYA HASHNIYA SQUARE RETSIF HAALIYA HAS Garden Y E F E T Garden Y E F E T OL E I ZI O N OL E I ZI O N SHE'ERIT ISRAEL A M ETS HANANEL HANANEL HER Z L HER SC H OCK E N Z L BAR YOHAI BAR YOHAI S H L O M O M
KEDUMIMHNIYA
ETSYON GEVER L O M O S H L O M O
Summit
Flea
ETSYON GEVER
KEDUMIM
H A TSORFIM
H A TSORFIM
SQUARE
Market Market
A M ETS
RABENU
HIZKIYAHU HAMELECH
RABENU
HIZKIYAHU HAMELECH
Artists’
Artists’
SC H OCK E N
IS R AE L MI SALANT
Quarter
Quarter
YE HUDA MERAGUSA
HATKUMA
SHE'ERIT ISR
SH LA BIM
Stadium
Stadium
Jaffa Jaffa JAFFA JAFFA YE HUDA MERAGUSA HATKUMA Bloomfield Bloomfield SH LA BIM AEL K I B B U T Z G A L U Y O T SDEROT HAR TSIYON HOVOT HALEVAVOT SDEROT HAR TSIYON M ESI L AT Y ESH ARI M HOVOT HALEVAVOT M E K O R H A I M B A'AL
Groningen Groningen
Port Port Garden Garden
K I B B U T Z G A L U Y O T
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1 "=
TEL AVIV MUSEUM
OF ART
EXPERIENCE Tel Aviv 10am–9pm Tue & Thu, 10am–2pm Fri ∑ tamuseum.org.il
E2 ⌂ 27 Ha-Melekh Shaul Blvd # 10am–6pm Mon, Wed & Sat,
Israel’s premier museum of modern and contemporary art brings
together works by international superstars such as Van Gogh
and Picasso, with outstanding exhibitions featuring thought-
provoking – and often provocative – Israeli art.
The museum was founded in 1932 by as Monet, Degas, Rothko and Pollock. The
Meir Dizengoff, the first mayor of Tel Aviv. collection is split between the Brutalist main
Beginning with just a few dozen works, the building, which opened in 1971, and the newer
collection has steadily grown to become the Herta and Paul Amir Building, an arresting,
finest in Israel. The pieces on display span the angular structure that was inaugurated in
17th century to the present day, and cover 2011. There is also a lovely sculpture garden
the major movements in late 19th- and and performance spaces. Temporary
20th-century European and American art – exhibitions can be seen in the Helena
from Impressionism and Cubism to Abstract Rubenstein Pavilion, a striking modernist
Expressionism and Pop Art – with works pavilion opened in 1959 that’s 1 km (half
by numerous world-famous names such a mile) southwest of the main building.
A mural by Roy
Lichtenstein in
the museum lobby
172
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Must See
1
3
1 The eye-catching Herta and Paul Amir
Building opened in 2011 and houses five
floors of galleries.
2 Sculptures of birds and human figures
by Israeli artist Zadok Ben Daviv are on
display in front of the museum.
3 The Shepherdess (1889) by Vincent
van Gogh was painted during the artist’s
2 voluntary hospitalization in an asylum.
ISRAELI ART
The Tel Aviv Museum
of Art is known for
its pioneering solo
exhibitions featuring
Israeli artists. Modern
Israeli art has often
focused on issues of
identity and conflict,
as well as the complex
relationships between
the local and the uni-
versal, the periphery
versus the centre, and
east versus west.
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Did You Know?
Tel Aviv’s collection
of Bauhaus buildings
is known as the
White City.
Enjoying a coffee break at
one of the kiosks that line
the delightful thoroughfare
174
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Must See
2
ROTHSCHILD
BOULEVARD
D4
Walkers and cyclists flock to this elegant thoroughfare, which lies
at the heart of Bauhaus Tel Aviv. Its ficus-shaded central strip shelters
an appealing array of drink and food kiosks and environmental
sculptures, with plenty of benches for people watching.
Lined with palm trees and Eclectic- and
Bauhaus-style buildings from the 1920s and
1930s, as well as the modern skyscrapers
of Tel Aviv’s financial district, Rothschild
Boulevard stretches for 1.5 km (1 mile)
from flowery HaBima Square – home of
the world-class HaBima Theater and the
Charles Bronfman Auditorium concert hall –
southwest of Neve Tzedek. The Haganah
Museum at No 23 tells the history of the
clandestine pre-state military organization
that later became the Israel Defense Forces,
while across the street, at No 16, stands
Independence Hall (undergoing renovations
in 2019). It was here, on 14 May 1948, where
Israel’s Declaration of Independence was
made. Nearby real estate, among the city’s
priciest, is home to top restaurants and
classy boutique hotels.
Nearby real estate, among
the city’s priciest, is home to
Patrons relaxing at one of the many top restaurants and classy
restaurants that line the boulevard boutique hotels.
TEL AVIV’S BAUHAUS
ARCHITECTURE
The world’s largest assemblage of
buildings in the International Modern
style, also known as Bauhaus, is in
Tel Aviv. Altogether there are some
4,000 examples within the city.
These buildings, largely erected in
the 1930s and 1940s, were designed
by immigrant architects trained in
Europe, particularly in Germany, home
of the modernist Bauhaus School.
The simplicity and functionality of
the style, which aimed to unify art
with technology, was considered
highly appropriate to the socialist
ideals of Zionism that under pinned
the founding of the new city.
175
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EXPERIENCE MORE TOP TEL AVIV FOR
6 CHILDREN
3 first (and still-flourishing) Tel Aviv Port
Creative play areas, a
shopping centre, with the
Rabin Square Tel Aviv Port, a distance of zipline and roundabout.
3 km (2 miles).
E2 @ 10, 12, 24, 25 Two blocks north of the Sarona
EXPERIENCE Tel Aviv is often the venue for large- Square. It was named in an indoor market are a
Outdoor play areas and
Tel Aviv’s largest public square
Dizengoff Center is Dizengoff
huge hit with kids.
scale political, cultural and
honour not of Meir Dizengoff,
the city’s first mayor, but
sporting events.
Israel Children’s
rather his wife, Tzina. At the
On 4 November 1995, at
Museum
time of writing, it was being
the end of a huge peace rally,
Prime Minister Yizhak Rabin
fun in the Holon suburb.
was assassinated here by a
1930s layout, with a street-
right-wing Jew; a memorial, returned to its original, mid- Innovative interactive
level fountain roundabout
Yarkon Park
situated on Ibn Gabirol Street, in the middle. Play areas, a climbing
between the 14-storey city The square is surrounded wall, boats, mini-zoo
hall and Gan HaIr shopping by Bauhaus-style buildings, and a water park.
mall, marks the spot. including the Cinema Hotel.
The massive, rust-coloured Built as a movie theatre in Gan Ha’ir
sculpture, shaped like a Star 1939, it has ribbons of hori- Play areas for kids aged
of David when seen from zontal windows, overhanging two to eight in a classy
above, is a memorial for ledges and curved balconies; shopping centre.
the victims of the Holocaust; take the elevator up to the
it was designed by Yigal roof terrace for some fine city Dizengoff Centre
Tumarkin. Nearby is an views. The city’s Bauhaus Shopping centre with
ecological pool with lily heritage is celebrated at the play areas and a cinema.
pads, koi and, often, a Bauhaus Center, which
hungry heron or two. hosts exhibitions, offers
architectural walking tours
and sells Bauhaus-themed 5
4 books and souvenirs. Dubnov Garden
Dizengoff Street Bauhaus Center E2 ⌂ Dubnov St
D2 @ 5, 22, 72 "'- = ⌂ 77 Dizengoff St @ 9, 18
# 10am–7pm Sun–Thu, 10am–
Tel Aviv’s most stylish 2:30pm Fri, 10am–7:30pm Sat Situated behind the Tel Aviv
shopping area back in the ∑ bauhaus-center.com Peforming Arts Center, a
1960s, Dizengoff Street block east of Ibn Gabirol
runs north to south and links Street, this island of green is
the Dizengoff Center, Israel’s one of dozens of small parks
176-177_EW_Jerusalem.indd 176 23/11/2018 10:57
scattered around the city’s
residential areas. It has two
play areas for children, one of
them shaded, as well as grass,
benches and a water fountain
designed to refresh both
humans and dogs.
6 -
Tel Aviv Performing
Arts Center
E2 ⌂ 19 Shaul HaMelech
Blvd @ 9, 14 # For perfor
mances ∑ Israeli Opera:
israelopera.co.il; Cameri
Theater: cameri.co.il
Part of a cultural campus that Fresh juice for sale
includes the Tel Aviv Museum along bustling Ben-
of Art and Beit Ariela (the Gurion Boulevard
city’s central public library),
the Tel Aviv Performing Arts STAY
Center is home to several arts running down the middle,
organizations and venues. links Rabin Square with the
The Israeli Opera has a home beach, a distance of 1.3 km Hotel Montefiore
here, and their performance (0.8 mile). Locals come here Eclectic-style 1920s
spaces also host international to stroll with their pushchairs hotel with very
dance troupes. or dogs (or both) and to sip high standards.
The Cameri Theater is freshly squeezed juices or D4 ⌂ 36 Montefiore St
Tel Aviv’s municipal theatre coffee, purchased from little ∑ hotelmontefiore.co.il
company, which features kiosks. It is named for David ÒÒÒ
works by Israeli playwrights. Ben-Gurion (1886–1973),
The two institutions share a Israel’s first prime minister,
long, glass-enclosed lobby. who lived at No 17 for much Arbel Suites Hotel
Opened in 1994, the of the time between 1931 Spotless modern suites
complex is architecturally and 1973. His home is now with kitchenettes;
interesting too. Postmodern a museum, the Ben-Gurion some have a balcony.
in inspiration, it combines House, whose exhibits and D1 ⌂ 11 Hulda St
curved and angular elements décor – virtually unchanged ∑ arbelhotel.com
that create an asymmetrical in half-a-century – offer ÒÒÒ
façade and skyline; patrons fascinating insights into
arriving on foot enter from his life and times.
Shaul HaMelech Boulevard, Tal by the Beach
passing through a towering Ben-Gurion House Stylish boutique hotel
modern arch. ⌂ 17 Ben-Gurion Blvd near Metzitzim Beach.
# 8am–3pm Sun & Tue– F1 ⌂ 287 HaYarkon St
Thu, 8am–5pm Mon, 8am– ∑ atlas.co.il
7 1pm Fri, 11am–2pm Sat ÒÒÒ
∑ bg-house.org
Ben-Gurion Boulevard
Abraham Hostel
D1 @ 4, 10, 13 Dorm beds and private
This animated boulevard, Did You Know? rooms, plus rootop patio.
with a tree-shaded pedestrian D4 ⌂ 21 Levontin St
∑ abraham
promenade and a bicycle path David Ben-Gurion left hostels.com
his house to the State
of Israel, to be used ÒÒÒ
for “reading, study
The Holocaust Memorial, and research”.
by Yigal Tumarkin, on Tel
Aviv’s Rabin Square
177
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Yachts and rowing boats
berthed at the watersports
hub of Tel Aviv Marina
Across the street from the
park stands Hassan Bek
Mosque, built – using forced
EXPERIENCE Tel Aviv eponymous Ottoman military
labour – in 1916 by the
governor of Jaffa. During the
1948 War, Arab soldiers used
the mosque’s minaret as a
firing position. Manshiye was
severely damaged during the
fighting and was demolished
in the 1960s – a fate that was
also planned for Neve Tzedek
(p180). Charles Clore Park
stands on the rubble that
demolition contractors
bulldozed into the sea.
The park hosts major
outdoor events such as Gay
8 \-= 9 Pride (the parade ends here)
and the Tel Aviv EAT food
Tel Aviv Port Charles Clore Park festival. The shell of the old
F1 @ 4, 6, 9, 11, 72 C4 ⌂ Kaufmann St Dophinarium complex, site
∑ yarid-hamizrach.co.il of a horrific suicide bombing
A few hundred metres north in 2001, was demolished in
Tel Aviv’s cargo port, which of Old Jaffa, grassy Charles 2018 and is scheduled to be
was established in 1936 Clore Park – named for a replaced by an uninterrupted
and closed in 1965, was British businessman and seafront promenade.
transformed into the city’s philanthropist – stretches
favourite strolling, shopping, along the waterfront. Within
dining, drinking and clubbing the park sits a black glass
precinct in the early 2000s cube, constructed inside the 10 -
after decades of dereliction. ruins of the only remaining Tel Aviv Beachfront
Old warehouses became building from the pre-1948, C4 ⌂ HaYarkon St
industrial-chic commercial majority-Arab neighbourhood @ 11
spaces, restaurants, bars and of Manshiye. It houses the
cafés, and an undulating Etzel 1948 Museum, which Tel Aviv’s seafront stretches
wooden boardwalk – lashed looks at the battle fought for 13.5 km (9 miles) from
by waves when the surf’s up – here in April 1948 from a Herzliya to Bat Yam. The 13
was constructed along the right-wing Israeli perspective. official swimming beaches
waterfront. The romantic
Mandate-era Wauchope
Bridge across the Yarkon River
estuary was rebuilt, creative
play areas for children were
added, and on the water-cargo
ships were replaced by yachts
and other pleasure craft.
On Shabbat, some of the
only shopping in town can
be found here.
A Woman Against the
Wind (1972) by Ilana
Goor, in Charles Clore Park
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changing rooms and, of Between the square and the
TOP TEL AVIV course, lifeguards on duty marina sits the Olympic-sized
5 BEACHES (mid-April to early October). Gordon Pool, founded in 1956.
A delightful seafront An institution among local
Metzitzim promenade, for walkers and swimmers, it is famously filled
Shallow water and ice cyclists, links Reading Park – with crystal-clear, mineral-rich
cream nearby draw just north of the Yarkon River, saline ground water that’s
families here. near Reading power station changed daily, pumped
and Sde Dov airport – to up from a depth of 150 m
Hilton Beach Jaffa’s port, passing through (nearly 500 ft). There are
Part unofficial gay the Tel Aviv Port. It parallels separate pools for children
beach; part good for kilometres of glorious, fine- and toddlers, and sunbeds,
surfing; part for dogs. grained sand, washed onto chairs and parasols for
these shores by sea currents lounging between laps.
Gordon Beach from the Nile River.
A popular spot with Even in winter it’s often
European tourists. warm enough to sunbathe
here, and all the beaches face 12 -
Frishman Beach west so this is a good place Metzitzim Beach
A family favourite,
with a statue of David to be at sunset, with lovely, D1 ⌂ Havakuk HaNavi St
romantic views.
Ben-Gurion doing a @ 11, 55, 100
headstand (he used
to do yoga here). The iconic Israeli film Metzitzim
11 was shot on location here
Jerusalem Beach Tel Aviv Marina in 1972, giving this family-
Be prepared for friendly beach its name. Its
energetic games C1 ⌂ Shlomo Lahat facilities include changing
of matkot (beach Promenade @ 4, 10, 13, rooms, shade-giving pergolas,
raquetball) here. 100 ∑ telaviv-marina.com dry-land access to the seawall
and close proximity to the
Picturesque Tel Aviv Marina snacks, drinks and food
houses 320 yacht berths available at the Tel Aviv Port.
offer all the delights of the for yachts up to 20 m (66 ft) Except on Shabbat,
Mediterranean – warm water long and is encircled by a adjacent Nordau Beach is
(31° C/88° F in August), gentle seawall that’s accessible to gender-segregated (Sunday,
waves (usually) – along with pedestrians. Unfortunately, Tuesday and Thursday for
pergolas, open-air showers, the approach to the marina women; Monday, Wednesday
deckchairs and parasols for from Ben Gurion Boulevard is and Friday for men).
rent, fitness and exercise obscured by Atarim Square,
equipment, cafés, toilets, an early-70s, Brutalist mon-
strosity that blocks sight lines
and access to the beach. The 1909
city has been trying to replace
the complex for decades, but
the situation is complicated The year that Tel Aviv
as the land is privately owned. was founded on the
sand dunes north
of Jaffa.
178-179_EW_Jerusalem.indd 179 23/11/2018 10:57
EXPERIENCE Tel Aviv
An open-air-café in
the lively shopping area
of Sheinkin Street
13 to one of Israel’s most famous 14
artists. Born in Russia in 1898,
Neve Tzedek Gutman is best known for Sheinkin Street
his painting, but he is also
C4 D3
admired for his drawings and
Jaffa’s first Jewish suburb, children’s books. Once the ultimate symbol
Neve Tzedek (“abode of A short walk away is the of Tel Aviv’s counterculture,
justice”) was founded in 1887 Jaffa terminus of the rail with cheap flats, independent
by well-off families seeking line from Jaffa to Jerusalem, boutiques and hip cafés, chic-
fresh air and an escape from which opened in 1892. Nearby shabby Sheinkin Street has
the overcrowding of Jaffa’s buildings have been turned moved decidedly upmarket.
Old City. It found itself on into HaTachana, a hugely Although it now costs a
the front line in 1948 and popular complex with fortune to live here and
subsequently became a slum, restaurants, boutiques most of the shops are high-
housing Jewish immigrants and cultural events. end, young Tel Avivians still
and refugees from the Middle flock to the area to stroll and
East and North Africa. The Suzanne Dellal Center sit in cafés, especially on
area’s low-rise houses and ⌂ 6 Yehieli St ∑ suzanne Friday afternoons.
narrow lanes began to be dellal.org.il
gentrified during the 1980s,
and today it is one of the Rokach House Museum
most expensive parts of " ⌂ 36 Shimon Rokach St
the city, with a number of # 10am–2pm Thu–Sat
classy boutiques. ∑ rokach-house.co.il
Located at the heart of
the neighbourhood is the Nahum Gutman Museum
Suzanne Dellal Center, one " ⌂ 21 Shimon Rokach St
of the world’s most important # 10am–4pm Mon–Thu,
institutions dedicated to 10am–2pm Fri, 10am–3pm Sat
modern dance. Its delightful ∑ gutmanmuseum. co.il
courtyard, peppered with
orange trees, is a popular HaTachana
place for people to meet \-= ⌂ HaMered St, on
and relax. the corner of Kaufmann St
The small Rokach House # 10am–9pm Sun–Thu,
Museum occupies the one- 10am–3pm Fri, 10am–
time home of Shimon Rokach, 10pm Sat ∑ hatachana.co.il
one of the founders of Neveh
Tzedek. Displays in the house
illustrate daily life here at the
end of the 19th century. A few Colourful decorations
doors along is the Nahum at the Suzanne Dellal
Gutman Museum, dedicated Center in Neveh Tzedek
180
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The street is named after one historical themes, and people.
of the founders of Tel Aviv, The third floor has the artist’s
Menahem Sheinkin (1871– preserved studio and a
1924), who was killed in documentary film, and there EAT
Chicago in the United States, is also a historical archive of
when the tram he was riding his life. Changing exhibits
in was hit by a train. feature the work of other Pastel
Israeli artists. Modern brasserie in the
A few doors along, Bialik Tel Aviv Museum of Art.
15 House (Beit Bialik) is the E2 ⌂ A27 Sha’ul
former home of Haim
Bialik Street Nahman Bialik (1873–1934), Hamelech Blvd # Noon–
midnight daily
Israel’s national poet. The ∑ pastel-tlv.com
D3
house has been kept as it ÒÒÒ
Bialik Street is one of Tel Aviv’s was during Bialik’s time,
most historic thoroughfares. and includes a library and
At No 14 is the Rubin Museum, paintings by some of Israel’s Alena
the former residence of one of bestknown artists. Elegant place, with
Israel’s most famous painters, A little south of Bialik dishes inspired by
Reuven Rubin (1893–1974), Street, Bezalel Street is home Greece and the Levant.
who also became a diplomat to a colourful and popular D4 ⌂ Norman Hotel,
in 1948, representing Israel street market renowned for 23–25 Nachmani St
in Romania. The house now its cutprice fashions. There # 7–11am, 12:30–
contains a permanent collec are also numerous food stalls 2:30/3pm & 6–10pm
tion of his works, including that offer local cuisine. daily ∑ thenorman.com
local landscapes, Biblical and ÒÒÒ
Rubin Museum
" ⌂ 14 Bialik St Kitchen Market
# 10am–3pm Mon–Fri
1799 (to 8pm Tue), 11am– Contemporary gourmet
Mediterranean cuisine
2pm Sat & public hols
∑ rubinmuseum.org.il overlooking the sea.
Napoleon captures F1 ⌂ 1st Floor,
Jaffa, destroying the Bialik House Hangar 12, Tel Aviv Port
city and slaughtering " ⌂ 22 Bialik St § (03) # Noon–4pm & 6:30–
11pm Mon–Sat,
the Ottoman 525 4530 # 9am–5pm Mon– 6–11:30pm Sun
garrison. Thu, 10am–2pm Fri & Sat ∑ kitchen-market.co.il
(book ahead)
ÒÒÒ
HaAchim
Creative grilled meats
and vegetarian dishes.
E3 ⌂ 12 Ibn
Gabirol St # Noon–
midnight Sun–Thu,
9am–midnight Fri & Sat
∑ haachim.co.il
ÒÒÒ
HaBasta
Intimate bistro in
grungy Carmel Market.
D3 ⌂ 4 HaShomer St
§ (03) 516 9234
# Noon–midnight Sun–
Thu, 8:30–midnight Fri,
noon–5pm Sat
ÒÒÒ
181
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17 '
Beit Hatfutsot
Did You Know?
F1 ⌂ University Campus,
Tel Aviv was originally Gate 2, Klausner St, Ramat
called Ahuzat Bayit Aviv # 10am–7pm Sun–
when the city was Wed, 10am–10:30pm Thu,
founded in 1909. 9am–2pm Fri, 10am–3pm
EXPERIENCE Tel Aviv 16 When it opened in 1978,
Sat ∑ bh.org.il
this was regarded as one
of the world’s most innovative
museums, using thematically
Carmel Market
arranged dioramas, inter-
D3 ⌂ HaCarmel St
strolling and relaxing
videos to illustrate aspects
# 9am–6pm Sun–Thu, active displays and short Locals and visitors
9am–3pm Fri of life in the Jewish diaspora. in Meir Garden
The core exhibition is currently
Shuk Hacarmel, as it’s known closed, but is scheduled to
locally, is the city’s largest reopen in 2019 with enhanced 18
and busiest open-air market, use of technological means
a lively place full of the sights to showcase the Jewish past Meir Garden
and sounds of everyday life and present the influence of D3 ⌂ King George V St
and the aromas of fresh food. Jewish achievement on other @ 14, 18, 24, 25
In operation since 1920, cultures up to the present day.
the market begins near the In the meantime, two Tel Aviv’s first public park –
junction with Allenby Street, other permanent exhibitions laid out in the 1930s in honour
with stalls selling cheap remain open to visitors. One of Tel Aviv’s first mayor, Meir
clothing, household items and celebrates Jewish heroes, while Dizengoff (1861-1936) – is
electronics, before switching the other features a beautiful a fine, shady spot to relax
to fresh fish, meat, fruit and collection of scale models of or have a picnic lunch. The
vegetables, spices and herbs, synagogues. A newly built park is fairly small, but there
breads and biscuits, and nuts wing shows an array of are plenty of benches, a
and seeds. Bargains can often temporary exhibitions. shaded playground for
be had at the end of the day. Beit Hatfutsot also houses children and an attractive
Many of the side-streets a genealogy centre, where large koi pond dappled
off HaCarmel specialize in Jews from around the world with lily pads. At the park’s
different food produce. can trace their lineage. western corner stands a
182
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dynamic, city-run LGBTQ
community centre, which
runs a wide variety of
services and events.
Across King George V St
is 16-storey Metzudat Ze’ev,
named after Ze’ev Jabotinsky
(1880–1940), the Russian-
born founder of right-wing
Revisionist Zionism. It serves
as the administrative head-
quarters of the Likud party
and also houses the small
Jabotinsky Museum. The
museum’s exhibits present
the life and world view of
the fascinating founder of
right-wing Zionism, whose
ideology combined free
market economics, liberal An art installation of ceramic
democracy and nationalism. flowers in the grounds of the
Eretz Israel Museum
Metzudat Ze’ev
⌂ 38 King George Street
∑ jabotinsky.org opened at the museum, creative arts and crafts fair
consisting of some 10,000 is held here every Tuesday
ceramic flowers that had and Friday.
19 been made by hundreds of Next to Nachalat Binyamin
Israeli senior citizens from
is the Yemenite Quarter
Eretz Israel Museum all over the country. They are (Kerem HaTeymanim), home
set out as a colourful garden to Carmel Market. Its maze
F1 ⌂ 2 Haim Levanon,
Ramat Aviv # 10am–4pm among trees and bushes in of small streets – and those
of Nachalat Binyamin –
the museum grounds.
Mon, Wed & Sat, 10am–8pm
Tue & Thu, 10am–2pm Fri Additionally there’s a predate Tel Aviv’s expansive
∑ eretzmuseum.org.il square with a collection of masterplan, which was drawn
beautiful mosaic floors from up by Scottish urban planner
Built around the site of Tel early synagogues, churches Sir Patrick Geddes at the
Qasile, where excavations and mosques; an old olive oil request of Mayor Meir
have revealed layers of press; a reconstructed flour Dizengoff in 1925.
human habitation that mill; and a 1925 fire engine
date back to 1200 BC, this given by the city of New York
excellent museum depicts to Tel Aviv’s volunteer fire
the history and culture of brigade in 1947.
the land of Israel. SHOP
It comprises a number
of themed pavilions, all of 20
which contain permanent Nachalat Binyamin
exhibitions. One has a very Nachalat Binyamin Arts and Crafts Fair
fine collection of ancient and D4 This twice-a-week arts
Islamic-era glass, and others and crafts fair, with
are devoted to coins, ancient The second neighbour hood tables staffed by the
pottery, Judaica, the copper in Tel Aviv (the first was artists themselves, is a
great place to pick up
mining industry, postal along nearby Herzl Street),
creative gifts and
history and philately, and Nachalat Binyamin was Jewish ritual objects.
ancient crafts. In October established in late 1909. It
2014, an art installation titled is now a pedestrian mall D3 ⌂ Nachalat
“Blossoming with Age” lined with Eclectic-style Binyamin St # 10am–
buildings from the 1920s 4:30 or 5pm Tue & Fri (to
featuring Classical, Moorish 5 or 6pm in summer)
∑ nachlat-
and Art Nouveau elements. binyamin.com
Engaging exhibits on Jewish There is a plentiful selection
history and culture in the of restaurants, bars and
Beit Hatfutsot museum shops, and a colourful,
183
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A SHORT WALK
OLD JAFFA
Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest bus stop
Flea Market/Yefet Time 25 minutes
EXPERIENCE Tel Aviv in the wake of the great flood by Noah’s son Japheth. Ha-Pisga garden
According to the Bible, Jaffa (then called Joppa) was founded
Archaeologists have unearthed remains dating back to the
20th century BC, establishing Jaffa as one of the world’s oldest
ports. However, with the growth of Tel Aviv, Jaffa, which had
lies on top of
flourished under the Ottomans, went into decline. Following
the ancient “tel”
Jewish victory in the 1948 War, it was absorbed into the new
city to the north. The core of the old town has since been
revived as an attractive arts, crafts and dining centre. (mound) of Jaffa. M A Z A L D A G I M
Ha-Pisga open-air
amphitheatre is
used for concerts
during the summer.
START
FINISH
The Mahmoudiya M I F R A Z S H LO M O
Mosque dates
from 1812 and is
still in use today.
A 19th-century
sabil (fountain)
H A - A L I YA H H A - S H N I YA
Napoleonic
cannons The Sea Mosque
was the mosque
of local fishermen.
The decorative façade
of the 19th-century
Mahmoudiya Mosque
184
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EW Stroll template v1.3 – 13th August 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
The Artists’
Quarter, which
houses studios,
galleries and TEL AVIV
residences
Old Jaffa
Locator Map
For more detail see p170
This compact area of old Arab
houses and narrow stone
alleys has been transformed
into the Artists’ Quarter.
Did You Know?
Ha-Simta Roman columns from
Theatre Caesarea (p190) were
M A Z A L D A G I M
used to build the
Mahmoudiya
Ilana Goor
Museum of Ethnic Mosque.
and Applied Art
Synagogue
The House of
Simon the Tanner is
traditionally held to be
where the apostle Peter
once stayed (Acts 9: 43).
NATIV HA-MAZALOT Underneath the
picturesque Kedumim
Square is the Visitors’
The small, Greek Centre, with exposed
Roman-era exhibits.
Orthodox St Michael’s
Church dates from the
19th century.
The Monastery
of St Peter is built
in Latin American
Baroque style.
The Monastery of St
Nicholas, built around
1667, still serves Jaffa’s
The Wishing Bridge Armenian community.
is said to bring true the
wish of anyone crossing
it if they touch the statue
of their zodiac sign.
An arched alley leading
0 metres 50
to the Greek Orthodox
0 yards 50 N St Michael’s Church
185
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Haifa’s Baha’i Gardens, cascading down the slopes of Mount Carmel
MEDITERRANEAN
COAST AND GALILEE
Human life in this region began more than
500,000 years ago, as evidenced by the discovery
of numerous prehistoric artifacts on the western
slopes of Mount Carmel. By the time of the
Pharaohs and the Phoenicians, the area was part
of a major trade network: Mediterranean coastal
ports connected the Holy Land with empires across
the sea, and caravans followed the Via Maris south
to Egypt and northeast to Damascus and beyond.
In around 720 BC, the Galilee-based Kingdom of
Israel was destroyed by the Assyrians, but Jewish
life thrived in the region during the Second Temple
period (538 BC–AD 70). Jesus of Nazareth grew up
here at the start of the 1st century AD, and later
preached in Jewish villages around the Sea of
Galilee. Following the destruction of the Second
Temple by the Romans in AD 70, the Galilee
provided refuge to Jews – including sages and
scholars – driven out of Judaea. During the
Byzantine era, Christians gradually became
the majority, and in the Middle Ages the region
became part of the Crusader kingdom, with Akko
as its capital, before returning to Muslim Arab rule.
The fertile coastal plains and rolling hills in Galilee
attracted Jewish immigrants in the 19th century,
and today the region has a mixed population of
Jews, Muslim and Christian Arabs, and Druze.
187
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MEDITERRANEAN Jazireh Jazireh LEB ANONLEB ANON Qlayaa Qlayaa
COAST AND Tyre Tyre DAN NATURE
DAN NATURE
RESERVE RESERVE
GALILEE UPPER GALILEE Nimrud CastleNimrud Castle
UPPER GALILEE
MUSEUM OF PREHISTORY
Jouaiya Jouaiya MUSEUM OF PREHISTORY Banias Banias
Must Sees Kiryat Kiryat Sasa Sasa
1 Caesarea Shmona Shmona
2 Haifa and Mount Carmel Lehavot Lehavot S YRIAS YRIA
Khula Valley
Khula Valley
3 Akko Bent JbaïlBent Jbaïl Ramot Ramot ha-Bashan ha-Bashan Al QunaytirahAl Qunaytirah
GOLAN GOLAN
4 Nazareth En NaqouraEn Naqoura Naftali Naftali HEIGHTS HEIGHTS
5 Sea of Galilee
ROSH HANIKRA
HULA NATURE
6 Beit She’an ROSH HANIKRA Avivim Avivim HULA NATURE Al HarrahAl Harrah
RESERVE RESERVE
Experience More Nahariyya Nahariyya Ma'a lot- Ma'a lot- Jish Jish Khulata Khulata
Tarshiha Tarshiha
7 Megiddo Meron Meron
Shavei Tsiyon
8 Safed Shavei Tsiyon Hills Hills Kfar Ha- Kfar Ha- Katsrin Katsrin
Nasi
Nasi
9 Golan Heights Shomrat Shomrat Abu Sinan Abu Sinan Sajur SAFED SAFED Rosh Rosh
Sajur
10 Tiberias Pina Pina YehudiyaYehudiya
Reserve Reserve
11 Hula Nature Reserve AKKO AKKO Karmi'el Karmi'el Farod Farod
12 Belvoir Castle Bay of Bay of Kfar CapernaumCapernaum Nawa Nawa
Kfar
Masaryk Masaryk
13 Beit Alpha Haifa Haifa
14 Zichron Ya’akov Kiryat YamKiryat Yam Arraba Arraba Ilabun Ginosar Ginosar Kursi Kursi
SEA OFSEA OF
Ilabun
National ParkNational Park
15 Mount Tabor HAIFA HAIFA Shfar'amShfar'am GALILEE GALILEE Tasil Tasil
Kafr Manda Kafr Manda
16 Dan Nature Reserve Kiryat AtaKiryat Ata Rumane Rumane TIBERIAS TIBERIAS Ein Gev Ein Gev
17 Hamat Gader Tirat CarmelTirat Carmel Nesher Nesher
18 Beit She’arim MOUNT CARMEL Kiryat Kiryat TZIPORITZIPORI Kafr Kafr
MOUNT CARMEL
Ha-Zore'im' Ha-Zore'im'
Kana
Kana
19 Tzipori Tiv'on Tiv'on Kinneret Kinneret Ha-on' Ha-on'
BEIT SHE'ARIM
20 Rosh HaNikra BEIT SHE'ARIM NAZARETH HAMATHAMAT
NAZARETH
21 Upper Galilee Museum of Prehistory Neve YamNeve Yam Daliyat Daliyat MOUNTMOUNT GADER GADER At TurrahAt Turrah
TABOR TABOR
el-Carmelel-Carmel Tel Adashim
Tel Adashim
Geva Karmel Yokne'amYokne'am Dovrat Dovrat
Geva Karmel
Mishmar Mishmar Gesher Gesher
'Afula
ha-Emek ha-Emek 'Afula
Nakhsholim Fureidis Fureidis Merkhavya Merkhavya
Nakhsholim
BELVOIR BELVOIR
CASTLE CASTLE
Bat Bat MEGIDDO MEGIDDO
ZICHRON YA'AKOVA'AKOV Shlomo Shlomo Gid'ona Gid'ona Ar RamthaAr Ramtha
ZICHRON Y
Beit ha-Shita
Musmus Musmus Beit ha-Shita Irbid Irbid
BinyaminaBinyamina
BEIT ALPHA BEIT BEIT Dayr Abu Sa’idDayr Abu Sa’id
BEIT ALPHA
CAESAREA SHE'ANSHE'AN Al Husn Al Husn
CAESAREA
Pardes Pardes Ma'ale Ma'ale
Khana-Karkur
Sdot YamSdot Yam Khana-Karkur Gilbo'a Gilbo'a
Medit err aneanMedit err anean WEST WEST Jenin Jenin Sdei Trumot JORD ANJORD AN
Sdei Trumot
KhaderaKhadera BANK BANK PETRA ANDPETRA AND
SeaSea Mikhmoret Mikhmoret Baqa el- Baqa el- p226 p226 Tirat Tsvi Tirat Tsvi WESTERN JORDANWESTERN JORDAN
Qabatiya Qabatiya
Gharbiya Gharbiya p240 p240
Yama
Yama Nazlat Nazlat Sanur Sanur Raba Raba
Isa
Isa
Ma'abarotMa'abarot Kafr Ra'i' Kafr Ra'i' Mekhola Mekhola
NetanyaNetanya ‘Ajlun ‘Ajlun
Tubas
Kfar YonaKfar Yona Tul Karem Tul Karem Samarian Hills Samarian Hills Tubas Suf Suf
Nitsanei Oz Nitsanei Oz KurayyimahKurayyimah
Udim Udim
Deir Sharaf Deir Sharaf
WES T B ANKWES T B ANK
Kur Kur
Shkhem (Nablus)
Kalkilya Kalkilya Shkhem (Nablus)
Ra'ananaRa'anana (Qalqilya)(Qalqilya) Imatin
Imatin
Herzliya Herzliya Beit FurikBeit Furik MEDITERRANEANMEDITERRANEAN
Kfar Saba Kfar Saba COAST ANDCOAST AND
Ramat ha-Sharon
Ramat ha-Sharon Jordan River Jordan River GALILEEGALILEE
Yarkhiv Yarkhiv
Yanun Yanun
Damiya Damiya
Mas'ha Mas'ha Salfit Salfit
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv
0 kilometres0 kilometres 15 15 N N TEL AVIVTEL AVIV
Jaffa Jaffa p168 p168 Sinjil Sinjil Duma Duma
0 miles 0 miles 15 15
Kholon Kholon Ben Gurion Ben Gurion Rantis Rantis
International AirportInternational Airport
188-189_EW_Jerusalem.indd 188 23/11/2018 10:57
Jazireh Jazireh
LEB ANONLEB ANON Qlayaa Qlayaa
DAN NATURE
DAN NATURE
Tyre Tyre RESERVE RESERVE
UPPER GALILEE
UPPER GALILEE Nimrud CastleNimrud Castle
MUSEUM OF PREHISTORY
MUSEUM OF PREHISTORY
Jouaiya Jouaiya Banias Banias
Sasa Sasa
Kiryat Kiryat
Shmona Shmona S YRIAS YRIA
Khula Valley
Khula Valley Lehavot Lehavot
ha-Bashan ha-Bashan
Bent JbaïlBent Jbaïl Ramot Ramot Al QunaytirahAl Qunaytirah
En NaqouraEn Naqoura GOLAN GOLAN
Naftali Naftali HEIGHTS HEIGHTS
ROSH HANIKRA Avivim Avivim HULA NATURE Al HarrahAl Harrah
HULA NATURE
ROSH HANIKRA
RESERVE RESERVE
Nahariyya Nahariyya Ma'a lot- Ma'a lot- Jish Jish Khulata Khulata
Tarshiha Tarshiha
Meron
Meron
Shavei Tsiyon Hills Hills Kfar Ha- Kfar Ha- Katsrin Katsrin
Shavei Tsiyon
Nasi Nasi
Abu Sinan Abu Sinan SAFED SAFED
Shomrat Shomrat Sajur Sajur Rosh Rosh
Pina Pina YehudiyaYehudiya
AKKO AKKO Farod Farod Reserve Reserve
Karmi'el Karmi'el
Bay of Bay of Kfar CapernaumCapernaum Nawa Nawa
Kfar
Masaryk Masaryk
Haifa Haifa
Kiryat YamKiryat Yam Arraba Arraba Ginosar Ginosar
Ilabun Ilabun SEA OFSEA OF Kursi Kursi
National ParkNational Park
HAIFA HAIFA Shfar'amShfar'am GALILEE GALILEE Tasil Tasil
Kafr Manda Kafr Manda
Kiryat AtaKiryat Ata
Rumane Rumane TIBERIAS TIBERIAS Ein Gev Ein Gev
Tirat CarmelTirat Carmel
Nesher Nesher
MOUNT CARMEL Kiryat Kiryat TZIPORITZIPORI Kafr Kafr
MOUNT CARMEL
Ha-Zore'im' Ha-Zore'im'
Kana
Kana
Tiv'on Tiv'on Kinneret Kinneret Ha-on' Ha-on'
BEIT SHE'ARIM HAMATHAMAT
BEIT SHE'ARIM
NAZARETH
Neve YamNeve Yam Daliyat Daliyat NAZARETH MOUNTMOUNT GADER GADER At TurrahAt Turrah
Tel Adashim
el-Carmelel-Carmel Tel Adashim TABOR TABOR
Geva Karmel
Geva Karmel Yokne'amYokne'am Dovrat Dovrat
Mishmar Mishmar Gesher Gesher
'Afula
ha-Emek ha-Emek 'Afula
Nakhsholim Fureidis Fureidis Merkhavya Merkhavya
Nakhsholim
BELVOIR BELVOIR
CASTLE CASTLE
Bat Bat MEGIDDO MEGIDDO
ZICHRON YA'AKOVA'AKOV Shlomo Shlomo Gid'ona Gid'ona Ar RamthaAr Ramtha
ZICHRON Y
Beit ha-Shita
Musmus Musmus Beit ha-Shita Irbid Irbid
BinyaminaBinyamina
BEIT ALPHA BEIT BEIT Dayr Abu Sa’idDayr Abu Sa’id
BEIT ALPHA
CAESAREA SHE'ANSHE'AN Al Husn Al Husn
CAESAREA
Pardes Pardes Ma'ale Ma'ale
Khana-Karkur
Sdot YamSdot Yam Khana-Karkur Gilbo'a Gilbo'a
Medit err aneanMedit err anean WEST WEST Jenin Jenin Sdei Trumot JORD ANJORD AN
Sdei Trumot
KhaderaKhadera BANK BANK PETRA ANDPETRA AND
SeaSea Mikhmoret Mikhmoret Baqa el- Baqa el- p226 p226 Tirat Tsvi Tirat Tsvi WESTERN JORDANWESTERN JORDAN
Qabatiya Qabatiya
Gharbiya Gharbiya p240 p240
Yama Nazlat Nazlat Sanur Sanur Raba Raba
Yama
Isa
Isa
Ma'abarotMa'abarot Kafr Ra'i' Kafr Ra'i' Mekhola Mekhola
NetanyaNetanya ‘Ajlun ‘Ajlun
Tubas
Kfar YonaKfar Yona Tul Karem Tul Karem Samarian Hills Samarian Hills Tubas Suf Suf
Nitsanei Oz Nitsanei Oz KurayyimahKurayyimah
Udim Udim
Deir Sharaf Deir Sharaf
WES T B ANKWES T B ANK
Kur Kur
Shkhem (Nablus)
Kalkilya Kalkilya Shkhem (Nablus)
Ra'ananaRa'anana (Qalqilya)(Qalqilya) Imatin
Imatin
Herzliya Herzliya Beit FurikBeit Furik MEDITERRANEANMEDITERRANEAN
Kfar Saba Kfar Saba COAST ANDCOAST AND
Ramat ha-Sharon Jordan River Jordan River GALILEEGALILEE
Ramat ha-Sharon
Yarkhiv Yarkhiv
Yanun Yanun
Damiya Damiya
Mas'ha Mas'ha Salfit Salfit
Tel Aviv Tel Aviv
0 kilometres0 kilometres 15 15 N N TEL AVIVTEL AVIV
Jaffa Jaffa p168 p168 Sinjil Sinjil Duma Duma
0 miles 0 miles 15 15
Kholon Kholon Ben Gurion Ben Gurion Rantis Rantis
International AirportInternational Airport
188-189_EW_Jerusalem.indd 189 23/11/2018 10:57
Did You Know?
Pontius Pilate (who
ordered the crucifixion
of Jesus) served as
prefect in Caesarea in
the 1st century AD.
1 "
CAESAREA
B2 ⌂ Off Rd 2, 55 km (34 miles) N of Tel Aviv @ 76 and 77 from Khadera
# Hours vary, check website ∑ parks.org.il
Founded by Herod the Great and named for Augustus Caesar, this
grand port city is one of Israel’s major archaeological sites. The
extensive – and fascinating – Roman ruins include a spectacular
theatre and the attractive port itself.
At the height of his power, in 29 –22 BC, Herod site of Herod’s palace. Further inland are the
the Great built a splendid city over the site of ruins of one of the largest hippodromes in
an ancient Phoenician port. Its prosperity the Roman Empire. On the coast by the inner
lasted until AD 614, after which its history harbour is the Crusader citadel, surrounded by
became more unstable. During the early 12th walls dating back to around AD 1250. Enclosing
century and the Crusades, Caesarea again this whole area are the ruins of the much
became an important port city, but by the late larger Crusader city walls, within which lies
13th century it had been destroyed by the the unique Underwater Archaeological Park.
Mamelukes and was left to be reclaimed by the The four complexes at this park enable divers
sand, with only a small Arab village remaining. to see the techniques used to build the ancient
The importance of these great hidden ruins port, as well as remnants of wrecked ships.
was not realized until the 1940s. North of the ancient city is a Roman
Most of the main sights lie in the Caesarea aqueduct dating from the Herodian period.
National Park. If entering from the south, Extending for 17 km (11 miles), it carried
you will first see the huge restored Roman water from the foothills of Mount Carmel to
theatre, with seats for 4,000 spectators. A short Caesarea. A short way to the south of the site,
distance to the west, on a small promontory, the Caesarea Museum has interesting artifacts
a group of half-submerged walls indicate the from the Roman city.
190
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Must See
INSIDER TIP
Concerts
In Roman times, locals
and visiting mariners
flocked to Caesarea’s
semi-circular theatre
to enjoy dramas and
comedies. Today, the
ancient performance
space (often referred
to, incorrectly, as the
Caesarea Amphitheatre)
is a popular and pres-
tigious venue for pop
and rock concerts
by major Israeli and
international artists.
It also hosts the annual
Caesarea Jazz Festival.
The picturesque ruins
of the Roman aqueduct
on Caesarea Beach
2
1
1 The ancient harbour now houses
cafés and restaurants, and makes an
excellent spot to watch the sunset.
2 The Underwater Archaeological
Park features sunken ships and
cargo, as well as ancient anchors.
3 The eastern gatehouse of the
Crusader city is built in the Gothic
architectural style, with features
including a ribbed vault ceiling. 3
191
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EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee The terraces of the Baha’i
Gardens, with views over
the city and Haifa Bay
2
GREAT VIEW
HAIFA AND For breathtaking
Haifa Bay
views of Haifa Bay,
MOUNT stroll north along Yefe
Nof Street from Gan
Ha’Em park in Carmel
CARMEL Center, to the Baha’i
Gardens’ viewing
platform (at No 61).
! B2 ⌂ 95 km (59 miles) N of Tel Aviv ~ £ @ Bat Galim 0 metres 800 N
n 48 Ben Gurion St; www.visit-haifa.org are not necessary but it’s a BAT GALIM 0 yards 800
Israel’s third-largest city, Haifa is built around and on good idea to arrive half an Elijah's Clandestine Immigration
H A H AGAN A AV E N U E
Cave
hour before the start time.
Mount Carmel. A small village for most of its history, Dress modestly (shoulders and Naval Museum JAFFA RD Haifa Bay
things changed in 1868 with the arrival of German and knees must be covered). Stella KIRYAT ELI’EZER
Haifa
Christians known as Templers, who brought with them Maris T S A HA L S T R E E T TEL AVIV STREET ANTON Harbour
modern European technology. Today, Haifa is a proud A L L E N B Y LA-BANIM SCHMIDT
YAD
SQUARE
model for Jewish-Arab coexistence and is home to a 2 S T E L LA M A R I S R O A D SQUARE
prestigious science and technology research university. Haifa Center-
HaShmona
Carmel Center T C H E RNIKHOV S K I S T R E E T HAMOSHAVA BEN GURION D E R E C H H A A T S M A ’ U T
The lively area around the HAGERMANIT
D E R E K H YA F O
Báb (executed in Iran in 1850), upper station of Haifa’s Shtroudl Rola
KARMEL
S D E R O T H A M E G I N I M
1 " were interred here. Today, his six-station Carmelit metro TSARFATI A L L E N B Y
HATZIONUT AVENUE
Baha’i Gardens and tomb is marked by the gold- (actually a funicular railway) BAIT LEKHEM STREET ABBAS STREET HAGEFEN ST Downtown Lux
Beit
Shrine of the Bab domed Shrine of the Báb is known as Carmel Center. Shrine of HaGefen WADI ST K H U R I S T
(1953), which stands at the The neighbourhood is the Bab
⌂ Ha-Ziyonut St # Daily H AT S LY O N U T AVENU E Hadar-City Hall
RAMAT
(shrine: morning only) bottom of the magnificent populated with cafés and HATISHBI Wadi
Baha'i
¢ Shrine: one month in Baha’i Gardens, famed for restaurants, and offers HANASSI BOULEVARD Gardens Nisnas
their dazzling views of Haifa
breathtaking Mediterranean
summer; see website for HATAMAR ST HERZLIYA HaNevi’im BIALIK ST
Y EF E N O F S T R E E T
details ∑ ganbahai.org.il Bay. Tours of the, flower-filled panoramas from Yefe Nof HAYAM RD Madatech WADI
terraces of the gardens begin Street. Nearby attractions MT. KARMEL SALIB
Haifa has been a holy site for 1 km (half a mile) north of include Gan Ha’Em (a public WEST Tikotin Museum Masada BALFOUR ST
of Japanese Art
followers of the Baha’i Faith Carmel Center, along gorgeous garden) and the adjacent zoo, I L A N O T S T Mané-Katz H E RZL STRE ET IBN GA B IRO L ST
Museum
Hadar
since 1909, when the remains Yefe Nof Street, and last and two excellent museums: SHOSHANAT HA’K ARMEL ST Haifa Golomb HaCarmel
of the religion’s founder, the 45 minutes. Reservations the Tikotin Museum of HAYA M R O A D Zoo Gan Carmel Center Daliyat al-Karmal
Ha’Em 19 km (12 miles)
Park Hecht Museum Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah
ARLOZOROV STREET
192 R A’ANAN ST Carmel Center 7 km (4 miles) 22 km (14 miles)
K A B I R I M ST R E E T
192-195_EW_Jerusalem.indd 192 23/11/2018 10:57
Must See
Japanese Art, which houses spiritual father, so it is no
a fascinating collection of coincidence that the Stella
Japanese artifacts; and the Maris (“Star of the Sea”)
Mané-Katz Museum, which Carmelite Monastery, on BAUHAUS IN HAIFA
holds exhibitions of works the northern tip of Mount The British Mandate
by Emmanuel Mané-Katz, a Carmel, is a short, steep walk authorities envisioned
Russian-born painter affiliated up the slope from Elijah’s Cave Haifa’s port serving the
with the École de Paris. (p195). The monastery is also entire Levant, and the
accessible by cable car from area around it was
Tikotin Museum the Bat Galim coast, and developed in the 1930s
of Japanese Art houses a beautiful church with these big dreams
" ⌂ 89 HaNasi Ave that dates from 1836. in mind. Although
# 10am–7pm Sat–Thu, much of the architec
10am–1pm Fri ∑ tmja.org.il ture is today run down,
Mané-Katz Museum 4 it is impressive in its
modernism. Lots of
" ⌂ 89 Yefe Nof St Wadi Nisnas Bauhaus buildings can
# 10am–4pm Sun–Wed, While much of Haifa has be found on and near
4–7pm Thu, 10am–1pm Fri, changed greatly since the Herzl Street in Hadar
10am–3pm Sat ∑ mkm.org.il Mandate period, the mostly- HaCarmel, and also
Christian Arab neigh bourhood around Carmel Center.
of Wadi Nisnas looks very
3 much as it did before 1948, dialogue and Arab cultural
with low-rise stone houses on
Stella Maris narrow lanes, small shops and expression through art
a fruit-and-vegetable market. exhibits and Arabic-language
⌂ Stella Maris St # 6:30am–
12:30pm & 3–6pm daily On HaWadi Street, two rival children’s theatre. It also runs
∑ carmelholylanddco.org falafel restau rants – HaZ’kenim engaging experiential tours of
(No 18) and Michelle (No 21) – the city (book in advance).
It was on Mount Carmel, sell some of the city’s best
back in Crusader times, that all-in-a-pita meals. A little Beit HaGefen
the Catholic religious order to the west is Beit HaGefen, " ' ⌂ 2 HaGefen St
known as the Carmelites was an Arab-Jewish cultural # 10am–3pm Sun–Thu,
founded. The order considers centre that works to foster 10am–2pm Fri & Sat
the Prophet Elijah to be their interreligious and intercultural ∑ beithagefen.com
Bat Galim 0 metres 800 N
BAT GALIM 0 yards 800
Elijah's Clandestine Immigration
H A H AGAN A AV E N U E
Cave and Naval Museum
Haifa Bay
JAFFA RD
KIRYAT ELI’EZER
Stella Haifa
Maris T S A HA L S T R E E T TEL AVIV STREET
ANTON Harbour
YAD SCHMIDT
LA-BANIM SQUARE
A L L E N B Y
SQUARE Haifa Center-
BEN GURION D E R E C H H A A T S M A ’ U T
HaShmona
HAMOSHAVA
S T E L LA M A R I S R O A D
HAGERMANIT
D E R E K H YA F O
Shtroudl
KARMEL A L L E N B Y Rola
S D E R O T H A M E G I N I M
HATZIONUT AVENUE
TSARFATI ABBAS STREET HAGEFEN ST Lux
T C H E RNIKHOV S K I S T R E E T
BAIT LEKHEM STREET Beit Downtown
Shrine of HaGefen WADI ST K H U R I S T
the Bab
RAMAT Hadar-City Hall
Wadi
H AT S LY O N U T AVENU E
HATISHBI Y EF E N O F S T R E E T Baha'i Nisnas
Gardens
HERZLIYA HaNevi’im BIALIK ST
HATAMAR ST
Madatech WADI
HANASSI BOULEVARD
HAYAM RD
MT. KARMEL Tikotin Museum SALIB
WEST of Japanese Art Masada BALFOUR ST
Mané-Katz IBN GA B IRO L ST
Museum Hadar H E RZL STRE ET
I L A N O T S T
Haifa Golomb HaCarmel
Zoo Gan Carmel Center Daliyat al-Karmal
Ha’Em 19 km (12 miles)
SHOSHANAT HA’K ARMEL ST
HAYA M R O A D
Park Hecht Museum Carmelite Monastery of St Elijah
ARLOZOROV STREET
Carmel Center 7 km (4 miles) 22 km (14 miles)
R A’ANAN ST
K A B I R I M ST R E E T
192-195_EW_Jerusalem.indd 193 23/11/2018 10:57
5 some believe to have been the Israeli Navy – highlights
site of the epic confrontation
include an exhibit on the
Hecht Museum between the Prophet Elijah capture of the Egyptian
and the pagan prophets of destroyer Ibrahim Al-Awal
⌂ 199 Abba Hushi Blvd, Ba’al (1 Kings 18). Like Haifa’s in 1956; the conning tower
Haifa University # 10am–
4pm Sun–Thu (to 7pm Tue), Stella Maris Monastery (p193), of the INS Dakar, an Israeli
10am–1pm Fri, 10am–2pm it is run by the Carmelite submarine purchased from
Sat ∑ mushecht.haifa.ac.il Order. Visitors to the complex the UK that disappeared in
1968; and the submarine INS
can tour a small chapel, com-
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee long, that sank near Kibbutz 7 " COEXISTENCE
Gal, commissioned in 1976.
At this gem of an archaeology
pleted in 1883, and enjoy fine
views in all directions.
museum, the prize exhibit is
the hull of a wooden trading
ship, originally 13.5 m (44 ft)
MODEL OF
Ma’agan Micha’el about 2,400
Haifa is proud that its
Clandestine
years ago. Another highlight
diverse communities –
Immigration and
is a collection of inscribed
which include Jewish
Naval Museum
seals and Jewish coins from
refugees and their des
the time of the Bible. The
cendants, Christian and
⌂ 204 Allenby Rd
permanent exhibition offers
Muslim Palestinians,
# 10am–4pm Sun–Thu
an excellent insight into the
Jews from the former
civilization of the seafaring
The centerpiece here is the
USSR, Ahmadi Muslims,
Af Al Pi Chen (“Nevertheless”),
Phoenicians, while exhibits in
Druze and Baha’i vol
the Art Wing include the Ghez
landing craft that was used for
unteers – have long
Collection, which consists
clandestine immigration
managed to get along
of works by 18 Paris-based
with each other. The
operations during the British
Jewish artists who perished
annual Holiday of
in the Holocaust. a converted Canadian Navy ultraOrthodox Jews,
Mandate (p52). It was cap tured
by the UK’s Royal Navy in 1947 Holidays, held each
as it tried to smuggle 435 December, is a shared
6 Jewish refugees from Europe celebration of the sea
son’s Jewish, Muslim
into British-ruled Palestine.
Carmelite Monastery The museum also presents and Christian festivals.
of St Elijah the fascinating history of the
⌂ 22 km (14 miles) SE of
Haifa # 9am–5pm daily
∑ muhraqa.org
Known in Arabic as Al-
Mukhraka (“the place of the
fire”), this hilltop Catholic
monastery stands on what
Views over over the Jezreel
Valley from the Carmelite
Monastery of St Elijah
194
192-195_EW_Jerusalem.indd 194 23/11/2018 10:57
Must See
EAT
Rola
Situated down in the
gritty port area, Rola is
renowned for serving
refined, flavourful
versions of traditional
dishes from Syria and
Lebanon, including
some prepared in
a taboon (traditional
clay oven).
⌂ 33 HaNamal St
# Noon–midnight Mon–
Sat ∑ rola.rest.co.il
8 Praying inside Elijah’s ÒÒÒ
Cave, at the top of
Elijah’s Cave Mount Carmel Shtroudl
Despite its Viennese-
⌂ 201 Allenby St § (04)
sounding name,
852 7430 # Summer: 8am– Shtroudl – in the heart
6pm Sun–Fri (to 1pm Fri); Arabs (24 per cent), Hasidic of the German Colony
winter: 8am–5pm Sun–Fri Jews and Filipino eldercare dining strip – serves up
workers. A construction boom
(to 1pm Fri)
in the 1930s left the area with light, delectable
Situated at the very northern a wealth of Bauhaus-style versions of traditional
tip of Mount Carmel, this cave – buildings. The old campus Arab fare and Italian
sacred to Jews, Christians, of the Technion, built in favourites such as
Muslims and Druze – is where 1925, is now home to the focaccia and pasta,
popular tradition holds that impressive Madatech, Israel’s as well as delicious
the Prophet Elijah hid while National Museum of Science, fresh breakfasts.
fleeing Ahab, King of Israel, in Technology, and Space. ⌂ 39 Ben-Gurion Blvd
the 9th century BC. The 14-m- # 8am–1am daily
(45-ft-) long cave is divided ∑ shtroudl.rest.co.il
down the middle into sections 0 ÒÒÒ
for women and men, and Jews
(especially Sephardim) come Daliyat al-Karmal Lux
here to place petitions in the ⌂ Route 672, 19 km Chef Allaa Moussa uses
walls and to pray for the sick (12 miles) SE of Haifa European techniques
(especially the mentally ill), for that she picked up while
success in finding a partner The largest Druze village in working in Michelin-
and for children. Israel, Daliya (as the locals starred restaurants in
refer to it) sits atop Mount Sweden to transform
Carmel. Beit Oliphant, built top-quality local
9 in the late 19th century as the ingredients (including
summer home of Sir Lawrence
Hadar HaCarmel Oliphant (an early Christian fresh fish and seafood
from Akko) into bold,
Known as Hadar to locals, this Zionist), now serves as Israel’s modern versions of
neighbourhood – Haifa’s main national memorial to Druze traditional Arab dishes.
commercial district from the soldiers who fell while serving ⌂ 13 HaNamal St
1930s to the 1960s – was in the Israel Defense Forces. # 6pm–2am daily, also
established by middle class Nearby, the Shrine of Abu 12:30–5:30pm Sat
Jews in the 1920s. These days Ibrahim honours an 11th- ∑ lux13.rest.co.il
it has inexpensive shopping century founder of the Druze ÒÒÒ
and a remarkably mixed faith. Daliya’s main street has
population that includes several Middle Eastern-style
immigrants from the former restaurants and shops selling
Soviet Union (36 percent), Druze textiles.
195
192-195_EW_Jerusalem.indd 195 23/11/2018 10:57
Akko’s picturesque Old
City port, evocatively
lit at evening time
3 bathing) retains most of its
beautiful majolica decoration.
AKKO A sound-and-light show intro-
duces visitors to the history of
Akko and the life of a typical
bathhouse attendant.
B1 ⌂ 100 km (60 miles) N of Tel Aviv £ David Remez St
@ Ha-Arbaa St n El-Jazzar St; www.akko.org.il
Outside of Jerusalem, Akko (the historic Acre) has the
most complete and charming old town in all of the 3 "
Holy Land. Its origins date back to the Hellenistic Templars’ Tunnel
period, but its layout was set by the Arabs and their ⌂ Entrances at Khan al-
Crusader foes. What can be seen today is largely an Umdan and the lighthouse
18th-century Ottoman town built on the site of the old. # Summer: 8:30am–5pm
daily; winter: 8:30am–4pm
daily (closes 1 hr earlier
1 " 2 " Fri) ∑ akko.org.il
Knights Halls Hammam al-Pasha The Knights Templar were
a Crusader Catholic military
⌂ 1 Weizmann St ⌂ Off El-Jazzar St § (04) 995
# Summer: 8:30am–5pm 1088 # Summer: 8:30am– order based at Jerusalem’s
Temple Mount (from which
daily; winter: 8:30am–4pm 5pm daily; winter: 8:30am–
daily (closes 1 hr earlier 4pm daily (closes 1 hr they got their name). After
Fri) ∑ akko.org.il earlier Fri)
Following the Crusaders’ This is not a museum as such, AKKO’S BAHA’I
reconquest of Akko in 1191, but a former Turkish bathhouse GARDENS
the Knights Hospitaller (a dating to 1780 and the rule of Bahá’u’lláh (1817–92),
medieval Catholic military Ottoman governor Ahmed founder of the Baha’i
order that also cared for the Pasha El-Jazzar (hence the Faith, spent the last
sick) built this vast complex as name of Hammam el-Pasha, years of his life in the
its headquarters. It’s easy to meaning “Bathhouse of the Mansion of Bahjí, 4 km
imagine the clank of knights’ Governor”). It was in use until (2 miles) northeast of
armour and the clamour of the 1940s and remains in an Akko’s Old City. He was
pilgrims as you walk through excellent state of repair. The buried nearby, and
its superbly preserved halls. floors and walls are composed today his house is a
These include the vaulted of panels of different coloured shrine, surrounded by
Refectorium (dining hall), with marble, and the fountain in serene formal gardens
an arched ceiling held aloft by the “cold room” (where (www.ganbahai.org.il).
four massive columns. patrons would relax after
196
196-197_EW_Jerusalem.indd 196 23/11/2018 10:57
Must See
Railway and Bus Station
1.5 km (1 mile)
EAT El-Jazzar’s el-Kommander
NAPO LEON BONAPARTE ST
Burj
Citadel
(Underground Wall Daher el-
Uri Buri Prisoners Museum) Omar’s Wall
Chef Uri Jeramias, aka Knights
Uri Buri, is renowned for Hall WEIZMANN STREET He-Hafir
Sea
his minimalistic cooking Wall Garden
style, which emphasizes Majadla EL-JAZZAR ST Souq
the inherent flavours of Mosque el-Abyad
his fresh seafood. Don’t Hammam Mosque of SA L A H AL-D I N ST R E E T
El-Jazzar
al-Pasha
miss the wasabi sorbet. H A - H A G A N N A H S T R E E T Ramal Mosque
⌂ HaHagana St St. George’s
§ (04) 955 2212 Church Souk Khan Babal-Ard
# Noon–11pm daily Bahai al-Shawarda (Land Gate)
ÒÒÒ House Khan
Maronite Mu’allek el-Faranj
Church Mosque
Elmārsā Elmārsā
Based on Galilean-style Uri Buri VENEZIAN Sinan Basha Acre
SQUARE
Arab recipes, chef Allaa el-Shuna Mosque Bay
Khan
Moussa’s dishes come Templars' Khan
with a modern European Tunnel al-Umdan
twist. The dining room Church of Marina 0 metres 200 N
St. John
affords romantic views Lighthouse
of the fishing port. 0 yards 200
⌂ 13 Nemal HaDayagim
# Noon–midnight daily
∑ elmarsa.co.il.
in particular, was a prolific Zionist militias were held
ÒÒÒ builder. Among his legacy is here; nine of them were
the Turkishstyle mosque (built executed by hanging. Run
1781) that bears his name and by the Ministry of Defense
continues to dominate the old (bring your passport to get in),
town skyline. Its courtyard the Underground Prisoners
Saladin expelled them from contains recycled columns Museum inside the Citadel
the Temple area in 1187, they from the Roman ruins of has exhibits on the prisoners,
reestablished their head Caesarea and, at the centre, a the cause they fought for,
quarters in Akko and built this small, elegant fountain used their life in prison and a
350m (1,150ft) long tunnel for ritual ablutions. By the daring prison break in 1947.
to link their fortress (on the mosque are the sarcophagi
west side of the city) with of ElJazzar and his son, while
the harbour (to the east). underneath are the remains
of a Crusader church that 6 "
ElJazzar had transformed into Souk and Khans
a cistern to collect rainwater.
4 " ⌂ Old City # Souk: 7am–
Mosque of El-Jazzar 6pm daily
The alleys of Akko’s bustling,
⌂ El-Jazzar St § (04) 991 5 "
3039 # Daily ¢ Closed Citadel (Underground oldstyle souk (market) are
during prayers Prisoners Museum) where locals come to buy
fresh fruit, vegetables and
Akko lay semiderelict for ⌂ Off Ha-Hagannah St locally caught fish, as well as
more than 400 years after its § (04) 991 1375 # 8:30am– Middle Eastern spices and
destruction in 1291. Its rebirth 4:30pm Sun–Thu sweets. A stroll around the
came with the rule of the emir neighbouring streets will take
Dahr elAmr and his successor, Built by the Ottomans as an you past several Ottoman
Ahmed Pasha ElJazzar (“the administrative headquarters, era khans (merchants’ inns).
Butcher”), both of whom the Citadel later served as Khan alUmdan is easy to spot
governed the city for the a Turkish and then a British thanks to its clock tower, while
Ottomans in the second half prison. During the Mandate Khan alShawarda now houses
of the 18th century. ElJazzar, era, members of prestate cafés and restaurants.
197
196-197_EW_Jerusalem.indd 197 23/11/2018 10:57
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee The Catholic Basilica of
its bold, modern design
4 the Annunciation, with
NAZARETH EAT
! B2 ⌂ 102 km (63 miles) NE of Tel Aviv @ Abu Ashraf
n Casa Nova St; www.nazarethinfo.org
A traditional Arab café,
Israel’s largest Arab city is best known as the site of renowned for its katayif
the Annunciation and Jesus’s childhood home, and (cinnamon-walnut or
cheese pancakes),
is today a popular pilgrimage site. Most of the major cardamom coffee and
Christian churches are in the Old City, amid a maze vegetable salads. Basilica of Jesus Greek Orthodox Church
of the Annunciation
of alleyways that also houses the bustling souk. the Adolescent 6070 STREET CHURCH
⌂ Diwan al-Saraya, Old 6071 STREET SQUARE
City § (04) 657 8697 S A L E Z I A N S T 6077 STREET
¢ Sun 6089 STREET Ancient
1 "' 2 ÒÒÒ 6102 ST 6087 ST 6074 STREET THE LATIN MARY’S WELL Bathhouse
QUARTER
SQUARE
Ancient Bathhouse Greek Orthodox 6122 ST 6079 STREET HAGALIL STREET
Church of the 6075 STREET 6083 STREET
⌂ Mary’s Well Square Annunciation A L- B I S H A R A S T R E E T
# 9am–7pm Mon–Sat 6104 STREET 6087 ST 6083 STREET 6091 ST
∑ nazarethbathhouse.org ⌂ Church Square # 7am– 6087 ST
noon & 1–6pm Mon–Sat, 3 6005 ST 6094 ST
Discovered by chance in the 7am–1pm Sun Mensa
1990s, this ancient Roman Basilica of the Christi Church 6114 ST 6007 ST 6112 STREET
bathhouse complex includes According to Greek Orthodox Annunciation 6130 ST 6089 STREET 6101 ST
a caldarium (hot water bath), tradition, the spring beneath ⌂ Al-Bishara St 6126 STREET 6 1 13 STRE E T 6128 ST 6132 ST DERECH E-SALAM
hypocaust (heating tunnels) this church was the site of # Basilica: 8am–6pm daily; OLD CITY A L- B I S H A R A S T R E E T P A U L U S H A - S H I S H I S T R E E T
and praefurnarium (furnace). the Annunciation (the Angel grotto: 5:45am–9pm the Great 6127 ST Abu 4011 STREET
Church
It was most likely fed by water Gabriel’s announcement to daily ∑ nazareth-en. St Antonius 6143 STREET 6120 ST 6129 ST MARKET Ashraf
SQUARE
from nearby Mary’s Well. Tours the Virgin Mary that she would custodia.org 6150 ST Souk
of the bathhouse end with be the mother of Jesus Christ; 6141 ST Greek Catholic 6133 ST White
Mosque
light refreshments, and above Luke 1:27-35). The current Catholic tradition places the 6154 ST Church 6185 ST St. Joseph's 4084 STREET
6093 STREET
the remains is the Cactus stone structure dates from the Annunciation at the site of this 6158 ST Centre International Church DERECH E-SALAM YAWM EL-ARD STREET
Marie de Nazareth
Gallery, a boutique that sells 1760s but there has probably vast, strikingly modern shrine, EASTERN
high-quality Palestinian crafts been a church on this site built atop what is believed to Christ Museum of QUARTER
and artworks. since the Byzantine era. have been the childhood 6 1 5 0 STR E E T 6 1 5 3 STREET 6167 ST AL-BISHARA STREET Ancient Nazareth 0 metres 200 N
Church
198 6164 STREET Basilica of the 0 yards 200
Annunciation
198-199_EW_Jerusalem.indd 198 23/11/2018 10:57
Must See
4
White Mosque
⌂ Souk, Old City # 9am–
about 7pm ¢ Sun morning
The city’s oldest mosque has a
long tradition of working for
interfaith coexistence. Built
between 1785 and 1812, its
white colour symbolizes
purity, light and interreligious
harmony. Visitors are welcome
to drop by outside of prayer
time; the office, across the Olives for sale in the
courtyard from the street souk, Nazareth’s lively
entrance, has head-coverings central market
for women.
6
5 Centre International
Souk Marie de Nazareth
⌂ Market Square # 8am– ⌂ 15 Al-Bishara St
about 3pm Mon–Sat # 9am–noon & 2:30–5pm
Mon–Sat ∑ cimdn.orgv
The Old City’s souk (market)
home of the Virgin Mary. is the local residents’ primary Opened in 2012, this complex
Consecrated in 1969, the source of fresh vegetables was founded to foster recon-
basilica is decor ated with and fruits, spices and cheap ciliation among Christian
images associated with Mary housewares. Its winding alleys denominations. Visitors can
and her life. In the grotto, on are lined with tables piled tour the site’s archaeological
the lower level, excavations high with produce, and also excavations, watch a multi-
have revealed the remains house craftsmen’s shops and media show on Mary and
of Byzantine- and Crusader- a few eateries – one sells Jesus, and enjoy the views
era churches. inexpensive pita pizzas. from the rooftop gardens.
Basilica of Jesus Greek Orthodox Church
of the Annunciation
the Adolescent 6070 STREET CHURCH
SQUARE
S A L E Z I A N S T 6071 STREET 6077 STREET 6089 STREET
6102 ST 6087 ST 6074 STREET THE LATIN MARY’S WELL Ancient
Bathhouse
QUARTER
SQUARE
A L- B I S H A R A S T R E E T
6075 STREET
6122 ST 6079 STREET 6083 STREET HAGALIL STREET
6087 ST 6083 STREET 6091 ST
6087 ST
6104 STREET
Mensa 6005 ST 6094 ST
Christi Church 6114 ST 6007 ST 6112 STREET
6130 ST 6132 ST 6089 STREET 6101 ST DERECH E-SALAM
6128 ST A L- B I S H A R A S T R E E T
6 1 13 STRE E T
6126 STREET
OLD CITY P A U L U S H A - S H I S H I S T R E E T
the Great Abu 4011 STREET
Church 6127 ST MARKET Ashraf
6150 ST 6120 ST 6129 ST SQUARE
Souk
St Antonius 6143 STREET
Greek Catholic 6133 ST White
6141 ST 6154 ST Church 6185 ST Mosque St. Joseph's 4084 STREET
6093 STREET
6158 ST Centre International Church DERECH E-SALAM EASTERN
Marie de Nazareth
6 1 5 0 STR E E T 6 1 5 3 STREET 6167 ST AL-BISHARA STREET Ancient Nazareth 0 metres 200 200 N
QUARTER
YAWM EL-ARD STREET
Museum of
Christ
Church
Basilica of the
0 yards
Annunciation
6164 STREET
198-199_EW_Jerusalem.indd 199 23/11/2018 10:57
EXPERIENCE Mediterranean Coast and Galilee
Sunrise over the
serene waters of
5 the Sea of Galilee carved by someone who had
visited the Temple when it
SEA OF was still standing.
The excavation forms part
of the site of a spiritual retreat
GALILEE centre, run by the Mexico
based Legion of Christ. Its
centerpiece is Duc In Altum,
a striking, modern hall of
C1–2 ⌂ 135 km (85 miles) NE of Tel Aviv @ From Tel Aviv worship that houses six richly
and Jerusalem g For groups only from Tiberias to Kibbutz Ein decorated chapels. 0 km 4 N
Gev; (04) 665 8008 (phone for times) 4 Jesus Boats, Tiberias, Korazim
www.jesusboats.com; Lido Kinneret Sailing Co, Tiberias, National Park 0 miles 4
(04) 672 3006 n 19 Habanim St, Tiberias; (04) 672 5666 Korazim
Famous for its abundance of fish since biblical 2 Mount of the
Tabgha
times, the Sea of Galilee is where Jesus did much of Beatitudes Capernaum Ma’ale
his preaching. Today, this beautiful area is a popular ⌂ Route 87 Tabgha Gamla
tourist centre, with fascinating historical and religious Situated in the beautiful Ramot
sites and a varied selection of outdoor activities. northwestern corner of the Ginosar Ancient Galilee Boat
Sea of Galilee, a little way Kursi
Excavations have uncovered north of Tiberias, Tabgha Migdal Magdala National Park
1 " a rare synagogue that was in is traditionally accepted as Sea of
Magdala use here during the time of the place where the New
Jesus, which was dated in part Testament’s Miracle of the Galilee
⌂ Midgal Junction,
Bne
Route 90 # 8am–6pm thanks to the discovery of a Multiplication of the Loaves Tiberias Yehuda
daily ∑ magdala.org coin minted in 29 AD. Inside and Fish (Feeding of the Ein Gev
the synagogue, archaeologists 5,000) took place, in which
This fishing village was the unearthed the extraordinary Jesus fed the multitude with
hometown of Mary Magdalene, Magdala Stone (a replica is just five barley loaves and Kfar
and was the most important on display here), decorated two small fish. Today, the Haruv
settlement on the Sea of with depictions of the Second site is home to two Catholic Poriya
Galilee’s western shore until Temple in Jerusalem – among churches that commemorate Ha-on'
Tiberias (p207) was estab them a sevenbranched this event. The Church of the Kinneret
Yardenit
lished in the 1st century AD. menorah – that were likely Multiplication, run by German Baptism Site Deganya
Alef
200
200-203_EW_Jerusalem.indd 200 23/11/2018 15:46
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and comprehensive maps for exploring this evocative region.
Tour the fascinating sites of Jerusalem's Old City, sample eclectic Israeli cuisine in vibrant Tel Aviv, or soak in the salty waters of the Dead Sea: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within color-coded chapters. Discover the best of the Holy Land with this indispensable travel guide.
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DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Jerusalem, Israel, Petra & Sinai is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to the Holy Land.
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