The Ottoman-era Dung
Gate, the main entrance
into the Jewish Quarter
15 1244 when Jerusalem once The gate’s name is probably
derived from the ash that
more came under Christian
St Mary of the Crusader rule. used to be taken from the
Germans Today the church is roofless. Temple to be deposited
However, the walls survive to outside the city walls. The
R4 ⌂ Misgav la-Dakh St a considerable height, showing Arab name is Bab Silwan,
# Daily
clearly the three apses of the because this is the gate
Lying immediately below typical basilica plan that was that leads to the Arab village
the terrace of Tiferet Yisrael’s so widely used in the Holy of Silwan.
Quarter Café are the original Land from early Byzantine The gate was enlarged
walls of the early 12th-century times. Beside the church is by the Jordanians in 1952
St Mary of the Germans. This a flight of steps down to the to allow vehicles to pass
Crusader church was part Western Wall Plaza. These through. It is now the main
of a complex that included provide wonderful views of entrance and exit for the
a pilgrims’ hospice ( which is the Western Wall, the Dome Jewish Quarter, but it
no longer in existence) and of the Rock and the Mount of nonetheless remains the
a hospital. It was built by the Olives beyond. smallest of all the Old City
Knights Hospitallers and run gates. It still retains its old
by their German members. Ottoman carved arch with
This was in response to the 16 a stone flower above.
influx of German-speaking
pilgrims who were unfamiliar Dung Gate
with French, the lingua franca, S4
or Latin, which was the official
language, of the new Latin In photographs from the early Did You Know?
Kingdom of Jerusalem. 20th century, the Dung Gate is
Activity ceased when no larger than a door way in The Old City walls are
Jerusalem was taken by the the average domestic house. about 12 m (40 ft) tall
Muslims in 1187, but the Its name in Hebrew is Shaar and 2.5 m (8 ft) thick.
church and the hospital were ha-Ashpot, and it is mentioned
again used during the brief in the Book of Nehemiah
period between 1229 and (2: 13) in the Old Testament.
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A LONG WALK
OLD CITY WALLS
Distance Jaffa Gate to Lions’ Gate 2.5 km (1.5 miles); Jaffa
Gate to Dung Gate 1.5 km (1 mile) Walking time 60 minutes
Nearest station City Hall Light Rail Difficulty Many steep
EXPERIENCE Jewish Quarter The Old City of Jerusalem may occupy a relatively small area Damascus Gate SULTAN SULTAN Herod’s Herod’s S U L E Y M A N Storks’ Storks’
flights of steps
geographically, but its compactness and uneven topography
Tower
Tower
make it a frequently confusing place to explore. One good way
S U L E Y M A N
to gain an overview is to take to the ramparts and view the
(p82) features a
crush of alleys, domes and towers from the top of the walls
defensive dogleg
Old City
Old City
that enclose them. Visitors can walk along two sections of
entrance tunnel.
Walls
Walls
Gate
Gate
wall: from Jaffa Gate clockwise to Lions’ Gate, and from Jaffa
Indian
Indian
Gate anti-clockwise to the Dung Gate. The section between
Lions’ Gate and the Dung Gate is closed to the public. There
is an admission fee to access the ramparts, which are open Damascus Damascus Hospice Hospice QADISIEH QADISIEH St Anne’s St Anne’s
Gate
Gate
daily from 9am to 5pm in summer, and from 9am to EL-MATHANA EL-MATHANA Church Church
4pm (to 2pm Friday) in winter.
SHADAD SHADAD Lions’ Lions’
Monastery of
Monastery of Gate Gate
the Flagellation
the Flagellation EL-GHAZALI
SHAAR HA-ARAYOT EL-GHAZALI
HA-TSANKHANIM
New Gate was added in 1889 EL-WAD EL-WAD SHAAR HA-ARAYOT SQUARE SQUARE
to allow pilgrims in compounds HA-TSANKHANIM SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA
outside the walls direct access
MUSLIM
CHRISTIAN
to the Christian Quarter. New New CHRISTIAN MUSLIM
QUARTER
QUARTER
Gate Gate QUARTER VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA QUARTER
Terra Santa
Terra Santa
Monastery Monastery EL-KHANQA EL-KHANQA ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN
ST FRANCIS ST FRANCIS
College College Church of Church of Lady Lady Iron Iron
des Frères des Frères Casa Nova Casa Nova the Holy the Holy Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s Gate Temple Temple
Gate
Monastery Monastery Sepulchre Sepulchre Palace Palace Mount Mount
Start the walk by climbing CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD Alexander Alexander Cotton Cotton
Hospice
Hospice
Merchants’
the steps inside the Jaffa Merchants’
Dome of
Gate (p116) to the top of Muristan Muristan Gate Gate Dome of the Rock
the Rock
the gatehouse and heading St John St John
north to the first of the the Baptist
the Baptist
CHAIN STREET
walls’ 35 watchtowers. DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR) CHAIN STREET Western Western 0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N
DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR)
Jaffa Gate Jaffa Gate JEWISH Wall Wall El-Aqsa El-Aqsa
JEWISH
Mosque
START The The KHABAD KHABAD QUARTER WESTERN Museum of Museum of Mosque 0 yards 0 yards 300 300
QUARTER WESTERN
WALL Islamic Art
WALL
This section of the ramparts Citadel Citadel St Mark’s St Mark’s PLAZA PLAZA Islamic Art
is accessed from outside the Church Church Hurva Hurva Hulda Hulda
Gates
Gates
Synagogue
city walls, just south of the Synagogue Jerusalem Jerusalem
Archaeological
Citadel (p112). The initial ARMENIAN HURVA St Mary of Archaeological Park
ARMENIAN HURVA
Park
St Mary of
Dung
Dung
stretch is like a trench, with a QUARTER SQUARE SQUARE the Germans Gate
QUARTER
Gate
the Germans
ARMENIAN PATRIARCHATE
ARMENIAN PATRIARCHATE St James’s St James’s Synagogues SQUARE SQUARE
high stone wall on either side. Armenian Armenian BATEI ASE
BATEI MAKHASE
Garden Garden Sephardic Sephardic MAKHASE
BATEI
BATEI MAKH
MAKHASE
Synagogues
Cathedral
Cathedral
Zion Zion
Gate Gate
Zion Gate
(p125) is riddled
with bullet holes
from the fighting
in 1948.
Damascus Gate,
the grandest of all
the Old City gates
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Gothic Pro, Soho Pro
It was the north wall, just east
of Herod’s Gate (p82), that
the Crusader army breached JEWISH
on 15 July 1099 to capture QUARTER
Jerusalem from the Muslims.
From here there are views down
Salah al-Din, the main street of
Arab East Jerusalem. Locator Map
For more detail see p88
Storks’ Storks’
Tower Tower
S U L E Y M A N
S U L E Y M A N
At Storks’ Tower, the wall
SULTAN SULTAN Herod’s Herod’s Old City Old City swings through 90° to run due
south. From the ramparts here,
Walls
Walls
Gate
Gate
you overlook the tombs that
Indian Indian cover the Kidron Valley (p134)
Hospice Hospice and the Mount of Olives (p128).
Damascus Damascus
Gate Gate QADISIEH QADISIEH St Anne’s St Anne’s
Church Church
SHADAD SHADAD Lions’ Lions’ FINISH
EL-MATHANA
EL-MATHANA
Monastery of Gate Gate
Monastery of
the Flagellation EL-GHAZALI
the Flagellation
SHAAR HA-ARAYOT EL-GHAZALI
HA-TSANKHANIM SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA SHAAR HA-ARAYOT SQUARE SQUARE This walk ends at Lions’ Gate
HA-TSANKHANIM
EL-WAD
EL-WAD
MUSLIM
CHRISTIAN
Magnificent, where you descend
New New CHRISTIAN MUSLIM (p83), built by Suleyman the
QUARTER
QUARTER
Gate Gate QUARTER VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA QUARTER to street level. The beginning
Terra Santa
Terra Santa of the Via Dolorosa (p76) is
Monastery Monastery EL-KHANQA EL-KHANQA ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN just ahead, which, if followed,
ST FRANCIS ST FRANCIS
College College Church of Church of Lady Lady Iron Iron leads back towards the Jaffa
des Frères des Frères Casa Nova Casa Nova the Holy the Holy Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s Gate Temple Temple Gate area.
Gate
Monastery Monastery Sepulchre Sepulchre Palace Palace Mount Mount
Alexander Alexander Cotton Cotton
Hospice Hospice Merchants’ Merchants’
Muristan Muristan Gate Gate Dome of Dome of
the Rock the Rock
St John St John
CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD
the Baptist the Baptist
CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD
CHAIN STREET
DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR) CHAIN STREET Western Western 0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N
DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR)
Jaffa Gate Jaffa Gate JEWISH JEWISH Wall El-Aqsa El-Aqsa
Wall
Museum of
Mosque
QUARTER WESTERN
The The KHABAD KHABAD QUARTER WESTERN WALL Islamic Art Museum of Mosque 0 yards 0 yards 300 300
Islamic Art
WALL
Citadel Citadel St Mark’s St Mark’s PLAZA PLAZA
Church Church Hurva Hurva Hulda Hulda
Gates
Gates
Synagogue
Synagogue Jerusalem Jerusalem
Archaeological
ARMENIAN SQUARE SQUARE St Mary of Archaeological Park
HURVA
Park
ARMENIAN HURVA
Dung
Dung
St Mary of
QUARTER
QUARTER the Germans Gate Gate
the Germans
ARMENIAN PATRIARCHATE
Armenian Armenian
ARMENIAN PATRIARCHATE St James’s St James’s Synagogues SQUARE BATEI MAKH
BATEI MAKHASE
BATEI ASE
Garden Garden Sephardic Sephardic MAKHASE FINISH
BATEI
MAKHASE
SQUARE
Synagogues
Cathedral
Cathedral
Zion Zion The final stretch of the walk
affords wonderful views of
Gate Gate the Arab village of Silwan,
before ending at the Dung
Gate (p101), the smallest of
the city gates.
Zion Gate, with
the Church of the
Dormition behind
103
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4th July 2018
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Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro
Frescoes on the ceiling in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre
CHRISTIAN QUARTER
Lying north of Jaffa Gate and the Citadel,
the Christian Quarter occupies the Old City’s
northwest corner. Its spiritual heart is the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre, identified since at least
the 4th century as the site of Jesus’s Crucifixion,
burial and Resurrection. Over the centuries,
the neighbourhood was steadily built up with
patriarchates, hospices, churches and other
religious institutions, established by a wide variety
of Christian denominations. Some of these were
built in the late 1800s by European powers such
as Austria-Hungary and Germany.
The Old City’s most recent gate, New Gate,
was created by the Ottomans in 1889 to link
the Christian Quarter with Christian institutions
located outside the city walls, especially the
French-run Notre Dame hospice and the Russian
Compound. On the front line after 1948, New
Gate was sealed by the Jordanians and reopened
by Israel in 1967 following its seizure during
the Six-Day War.
105
104-105_EW_Jerusalem.indd 105 23/11/2018 10:18
CHRISTIAN QUARTER 0 metres 0 metres 100 N 100 N
Must Sees 7 Museum of the Greek 0 yards 0 yards 100 100
1 Church of the Holy Sepulchre Orthodox Patriarchate
2 The Citadel 8 Jaffa Gate I B N J A R A H I B N J A R A H
9 Omar ibn al-Khattab Square
Experience More Damascus Damascus E L - M A W L A W I Y A EL - MATHANA EL - HAMRA EL - MATHANA EL - HAMRA
E L - M A W L A W I Y A
Gate
Gate
3 Alexander Hospice
4 Lutheran Church R I S A S R I S A S MUSLIM
MUSLIM
of the Redeemer QUARTER
QUARTER
5 Christian Quarter Road Old City Old City
Walls
Walls
6 Church of St John the Baptist S H E I K H R E I H A N Sheikh Sheikh
S H E I K H R E I H A N Reihan
Reihan
EL-J ABSH A EL-J ABSH A
H A - R A M A K H I M
H A - R A M A K H I M
SAFRA SAFRA Convent of the
Convent of the
SQUARE SQUARE Mishol Mishol E L - W A D E L - W A D Sisters of Zion
Sisters of Zion
JERUSALEM S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T
JERUSALEM
E L - K A N A Y I S
E L - K A N A Y I S
Ha-Pninim
CITY CENTRE Ha-Pninim V I A D O L O R O S A Ecce Ecce
V I A D O L O R O S A
CITY CENTRE
Notre Dam Notre Dame dee de Homo Homo
France Hospice pice
France Hos p138 p138 Garden Garden Arch Arch
City City S H I V T E I Y I S R A E L S H I V T E I Y I S R A E L GHAWANIMA GHAWANIMA
MUSLIM
MUSLIM
Hall Hall E L - J A B S H A E L - J A B S H A QUARTER
EL-B AT T I KH
QUARTER
H A - T S A N K H A N I M
H A - T S A N K H A N I M St Salvad St Salvadoror CHRIS E L - R U S U L E L - R U S U L EL-B AT T I KH p66 p66 BARQUQ BARQUQ
CHRISTIANTIAN
QUARTERTER
VIA DOLOROSA
Former Former QUAR VIA DOLOROSA
Ribat
Ribat
Barclays Barclays New New el-Basir el-Basir
Bank Bank Gate Gate Terra San Terra Santata
E L - K H A N Q A
Monaster Monasteryy Khanqa Khanqa H A N Q A
E L - K
Salahiyya Salahiyya ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN
Ha-Leumi Coptic Coptic
Ha-Leumi
S T F R A N C I S
Patriarchate
Garden Garden B A B E L - J A D I D B A B E L - J A D I D S T F R A N C I S Patriarchate E L-TA K I YA E L-TA K I YA Ribat Ribat
el-Mansuri
Museum o Museum of thef the Church of Church of Lady Lady E L - W A D el-Mansuri
the Holy
the Holy
Greek Orthodoxodox
E L - W A D
Palace
College College F R E R E S C A S A N O V A Greek Orth Patriarchate Sepulchre Sepulchre Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s
Palace
Patriarchate
GRE E K O RT HOD OX PAT RI ARCHAT E
des Frères des Frères F R E R E S C A S A N O V A Casa Nov Casa Novaa Monasteryy
Monaster
Casa Nov Casa Novaa BAB EL- HADID
BAB EL- HADID
Hospice Hospice GRE E K O RT HOD OX PAT RI ARCHAT E Christian Christian Alexander Alexander EL-SARAYA EL-SARAYA
Quarter
Quarter
Road
Road
KHAWALIDA
KHAWALIDA
Hospice
SOUK EL-DABBAGHA Hospice El-Qirami’s AQBAT E-SARAYA AQBAT E-SARAYA
SOUK EL-DABBAGHA
El-Qirami’s
HA HA Omar Omar Tomb Tomb
KOPTIM KOPTIM Mosque Mosque Lutheran Lutheran
DIMITRIOS
DIMITRIOS
Church of thee
Latin Seminarynary
Latin Semi ST PETER ST PETER Church of th
E L - K H A L I D I Y A
Museum of the
& Patriarchateate
& Patriarch GREEK Museum of the C H R I S T I A N C H R I S T I A N Redeemer Redeemer E L - K H A L I D I Y A
Greek Catholic
MAMILL ST PETER ST PETER Greek Catholic Muristan Muristan SOU K E L-AT TA R I N SOU K E L-AT TA R I N
MAMILLAA
GREEK
Patriarchate
Patriarchate
G EORGE G EORGE Khan Khan Church of Church of OLD CITY
OLD CITY
JAFFA ROAD (DEREKH YAFO)
JAFFA ROAD (DEREKH YAFO)
ST ST Coptic Q U A R T E R R O A D St John the Baptistst M U R I S T A N R O A D SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN
M U R I S T A N
the Bapti
Coptic Q U A R T E R R O A D OS
L A T I N P AT R I A R C H AT E
L A T I N P AT R I A R C H AT E
Old City Old City AVTIM OS
St John R O A D
Walls Walls AVTIM C H A I N S T R E E T
C H A I N S T R E E T
CATHOLIC PATRIARCHATE
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R )
CATHOLIC PATRIARCHATE
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R )
OMAR IBN OMAR IBN
Jaffa Jaffa EL-KHATTAB EL-KHATTAB
HA-EMEK
HA-EMEK
Gate Gate SQUARE SQUARE ST MARK ST MARK
JEWISH
DAVID’ Mission Mission ARARAT KHABAD JEWISH
DAVID’SS
QUARTER
QUARTER
VILLA The The Hospital Hospital KHABAD p86 p86
VILLAGEGE
ARARAT
CHRISTIAN
Citadel Citadel CHRISTIAN
QUARTER
QUARTER
Omar ibn Omar ibn
ARMENIAN
al-Khattab
al-Khattab ARMENIAN
Square Square QUARTER AND St Mark’s St Mark’s
QUARTER AND
MOUNT ZION
MOUNT ZION Church Church
S H A M A
S H A M A
p120 p120 ARMENIAN
ARMENIAN
P A U L E M I L E B O T T A
P A U L E M I L E B O T T A Ha-Yotser QUARTER
Khutsot
Khutsot
QUARTER
Ha-Yotser
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Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro
0 metres 0 metres 100 N 100 N
0 yards 0 yards 100 100
Damascus Damascus I B N J A R A H I B N J A R A H
E L - M A W L A W I Y A
Gate Gate E L - M A W L A W I Y A EL - MATHANA EL - HAMRA EL - MATHANA EL - HAMRA
R I S A S R I S A S MUSLIM
MUSLIM
QUARTER
QUARTER
Old City Old City
Walls Walls
Sheikh Sheikh
S H E I K H R E I H A N Reihan
Reihan
S H E I K H R E I H A N
EL-J ABSH A EL-J ABSH A
H A - R A M A K H I M
H A - R A M A K H I M
Convent of the
SAFRA SAFRA Convent of the
SQUARE SQUARE Mishol Mishol E L - W A D E L - W A D Sisters of Zion
Sisters of Zion
E L - K A N A Y I S
JERUSALEM
JERUSALEM S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T S O U K K H A N E L - Z E I T
E L - K A N A Y I S
Ha-Pninim
V I A D O L O R O S A
CITY CENTRE Ha-Pninim V I A D O L O R O S A Ecce Ecce
CITY CENTRE
Notre Dame dee de
Notre Dam Homo Homo
France Hos p138 p138 Garden Garden Arch Arch
France Hospice pice
City City S H I V T E I Y I S R A E L S H I V T E I Y I S R A E L GHAWANIMA GHAWANIMA
MUSLIM
MUSLIM
Hall Hall E L - J A B S H A E L - J A B S H A QUARTER
EL-B AT T I KH
QUARTER
H A - T S A N K H A N I M St Salvad St Salvadoror CHRIS E L - R U S U L E L - R U S U L EL-B AT T I KH p66 p66 BARQUQ BARQUQ
H A - T S A N K H A N I M
CHRISTIANTIAN
QUARTERTER
VIA DOLOROSA
Former Former QUAR VIA DOLOROSA
Ribat
Ribat
Barclays Barclays New New el-Basir el-Basir
Bank Bank Gate Gate Terra San Terra Santata
Monaster Monasteryy Khanqa Khanqa H A N Q A
E L - K H A N Q A
E L - K
Salahiyya Salahiyya ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN
Ha-Leumi
Ha-Leumi Coptic Coptic
S T F R A N C I S
Patriarchate
Garden Garden B A B E L - J A D I D B A B E L - J A D I D S T F R A N C I S Patriarchate E L-TA K I YA E L-TA K I YA Ribat Ribat
el-Mansuri
Museum o Museum of thef the Church of Church of Lady Lady E L - W A D el-Mansuri
the Holy
the Holy
Greek Orthodoxodox
E L - W A D
College College F R E R E S C A S A N O V A Greek Orth Patriarchate Sepulchre Sepulchre Tunshuq’s Tunshuq’s
Palace
Palace
Patriarchate
GRE E K O RT HOD OX PAT RI ARCHAT E
des Frères des Frères F R E R E S C A S A N O V A Casa Nov Casa Novaa Monasteryy
Monaster
Casa Nov Casa Novaa BAB EL- HADID
BAB EL- HADID
Hospice Hospice GRE E K O RT HOD OX PAT RI ARCHAT E Christian Christian Alexander Alexander EL-SARAYA EL-SARAYA
Quarter
Quarter
Road
Road
KHAWALIDA
KHAWALIDA
Hospice
Hospice
SOUK EL-DABBAGHA El-Qirami’s AQBAT E-SARAYA AQBAT E-SARAYA
SOUK EL-DABBAGHA
El-Qirami’s
HA HA Omar Omar Tomb Tomb
DIMITRIOS
DIMITRIOS
KOPTIM KOPTIM Mosque Mosque Lutheran Lutheran
Church of thee
Latin Semi Latin Seminarynary ST PETER ST PETER Church of th
E L - K H A L I D I Y A
Museum of the
& Patriarchateate
& Patriarch GREEK Museum of the C H R I S T I A N C H R I S T I A N Redeemer Redeemer E L - K H A L I D I Y A
Greek Catholic
MAMILL ST PETER ST PETER Greek Catholic Muristan Muristan SOU K E L-AT TA R I N SOU K E L-AT TA R I N
MAMILLAA
GREEK
Patriarchate
Patriarchate
G EORGE G EORGE Khan Khan Church of Church of OLD CITY
OLD CITY
JAFFA ROAD (DEREKH YAFO)
JAFFA ROAD (DEREKH YAFO)
ST ST Coptic Q U A R T E R R O A D St John the Baptistst M U R I S T A N R O A D SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN SOUK EL-LAKHAMIN
M U R I S T A N
the Bapti
Coptic Q U A R T E R R O A D OS
L A T I N P AT R I A R C H AT E
L A T I N P AT R I A R C H AT E
Old City Old City AVTIM OS
St John R O A D
Walls Walls AVTIM C H A I N S T R E E T
C H A I N S T R E E T
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R )
CATHOLIC PATRIARCHATE
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R )
CATHOLIC PATRIARCHATE
OMAR IBN OMAR IBN
Jaffa Jaffa EL-KHATTAB EL-KHATTAB
HA-EMEK
HA-EMEK
Gate Gate SQUARE SQUARE ST MARK ST MARK
JEWISH
DAVID’ Mission Mission ARARAT KHABAD JEWISH
DAVID’SS
QUARTER
QUARTER
VILLA The The Hospital Hospital KHABAD p86 p86
VILLAGEGE
ARARAT
CHRISTIAN
Citadel Citadel CHRISTIAN QUARTER
QUARTER
Omar ibn Omar ibn
ARMENIAN
al-Khattab
al-Khattab ARMENIAN
Square Square QUARTER AND St Mark’s St Mark’s
QUARTER AND
MOUNT ZION
MOUNT ZION Church Church
S H A M A
S H A M A
p120 p120 ARMENIAN
ARMENIAN
P A U L E M I L E B O T T A Ha-Yotser QUARTER
P A U L E M I L E B O T T A
Khutsot
Khutsot
QUARTER
Ha-Yotser
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1
CHURCH OF THE
HOLY SEPULCHRE
EXPERIENCE Christian Quarter Built around what is believed to be the site of Christ’s crucifixion,
Q2 ⌂ Entrance from Souk el-Dabbagha § (02) 626 7011
# Summer: 5am–9pm daily; winter: 4am–7pm daily
burial and Resurrection, this complex church is the most important
in Christendom. Tucked away amid a warren of shops, the simple
exterior belies the atmospheric chapels within. At the heart of the
church, a marble shrine known as the Aedicule encloses the place
where Jesus’ body is believed to have been laid after his death.
The first basilica here was built by Roman
emperor Constantine between AD 326 and
335 at the suggestion of his mother, St Helena.
It was rebuilt on a smaller scale by Byzantine
emperor Constantine Monomachus in the
1040s following its destruction by Fatimid
sultan Hakim in 1009, but was much enlarged
again by the Crusaders between 1114 and
1170. A disastrous fire in 1808 and an earth
quake in 1927 necessitated extensive repairs.
Today, the building is administered by six
Christian denominations.
Archaeological evidence that the church
rests on a possible site of the Crucifixion is
scant, but positive. Excavations show that the
site lay outside the city walls until new ones
encompassed it in AD 43; that in the early 1st
century it was a disused quarry in which an
area of cracked rock had been left untouched;
and that rockhewn tombs were in use here in
The Stone of Unction, commemorating the the 1st centuries BC and AD. This all tallies with
anointing and wrapping of Christ’s body Gospel accounts of the Crucifixion.
1009 2017
The Fatimid sultan Christ’s Tomb
▼
Hakim orders the is reopened after a
destruction of the US$4 million restoration
Church of the Holy project, in which a
Sepulchre, razing the conservation team lifted
original 4th-century the covering limestone
shrine around the slab for the first time
tomb of Christ. in almost 500 years.
Timeline AD 326 1555 1808
▲ Constantine’s builders
A marble slab
▲ A devastating fire
dig away the hillside to
is installed over
destroys the Stone of
create enough space to
damages the Rotunda.
It is purposely
build a church around Christ’s Tomb. Unction and heavily
the presumed rock-hewn cracked to deter
tomb of Christ. Ottoman looters.
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Must See
Did You Know?
Author Herman
Melville described the
Church of the Holy
Sepulchre as “a
sickening cheat”.
The exterior of the church,
crowned by the grey dome
over the central nave
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Exploring the Church
of the Holy Sepulchre The Rotunda, heavily Rebuilt after the
The reconstructions and additions that have rebuilt after the 1808 1927 earthquake,
shaped this church over the centuries make it fire, is the most majestic the Catholikon
a complex building to explore. Its division into part of the church. Dome is decorated
chapels and spaces allotted to six different with an image
denominations adds a further sense of of Christ.
confusion. The interior is dimly lit, and queues
EXPERIENCE Christian Quarter minutes. Nonetheless, the experience
often form at Christ’s Tomb, so that the
time each person can spend inside the
shrine may be limited to just a few
of standing on Christianity’s most
hallowed ground inspires
many visitors with a deep
sense of awe.
The Crusader bell
tower was reduced by
two storeys in 1719.
For Christians, Christ’s
Tomb is the most
sacred site of all.
The main
entrance is early
12th century.
Rock of
Golgotha
A Stone of Unction Chapel of
has been here since the Franks Golgotha houses
medieval times. The the rock venerated
THE STATUS QUO present stone dates Chapel of Adam as the site of the
from 1810. Crucifixion.
Fierce disputes, lasting
centuries, between
Christian creeds (p115)
over ownership of the
church were largely
resolved by an Ottoman
decree issued in 1852.
Still in force and known
as the Status Quo, it
divides custody among
Armenians, Greeks,
Copts, Roman Catholics,
Ethiopians and Syrians.
Every day, the church is
unlocked by a Muslim
keyholder acting as a
“neutral” intermediary,
a task that has been
performed by a member
of the same family for
several generations. Clergy of the Armenian Apostolic Church
celebrating mass in the Chapel of St Helena
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Must See
Golgotha
Did You Know? Highlights ▶ On the left of Golgotha is the Greek
Orthodox chapel, with its altar over
The crack in the Rock of the so-called Rock of Golgotha
on which the cross of Christ’s
Golgotha is believed to crucifixion is believed to have
have been caused by stood. To the right is the
an earthquake after Roman Catholic chapel, and
the crucifixion. between them is the Altar
of the Stabat Mater,
commemorating Mary’s
sorrow as she stood at
the foot of the cross.
A cluster of small Chapel of Adam
buildings on the roof of ▼ Built against the Rock of Golgotha, this
the Chapel of St Helena is chapel is the medi eval replacement of a previous Chapel
inhabited by a community of Adam that was part of Constantine’s
of Ethiopian monks.
4th-century basilica. It was so called
because tradition told that Christ
was crucified over the burial
place of Adam’s skull.
Christ’s Tomb
The present-day shrine
around the tomb of Christ
was built in 1809–10, after
the fire of 1808. The outer
Chapel of the Angel has a low
pilaster using a piece of the stone
said to have been rolled from the
mouth of Christ’s Tomb by angels. A
low door leads to the inner Chapel of the Holy
Sepulchre, in which a marble slab covers the place where
Christ’s body was supposedly laid.
Rotunda and Syrian Chapel
▶ The Rotunda is built in classical Roman style.
The 11th-century dome was replaced
after the 1808 fire, as was the
colonnade. In the back wall is the
chapel used by the Syrians,
which contains Jewish rock
tombs (c 100 BC–AD 100).
Chapels of
St Helena and
the Finding
The Chapel of St
Helena is now Stairs to of the Cross
dedicated to St the Inventio
Gregory the Crucis Chapel The side walls of St Helena’s
Illuminator, patron Chapel are foundations of the 4th-
of the Armenians. century basilica. Below is the Finding of
the Cross Chapel, a former cistern in which
St Helena is said to have found the True Cross.
The Church of the Holy Ethiopian Monastery
Sepulchre, with its
numerous chapels This simple monastery occupies a series of small buildings
on the roof of St Helena’s Chapel. The Ethiopians of
Jerusalem were forced here in the 17th century, when,
unable to pay Ottoman taxes, they lost ownership of
their chapels in the main church to other communities.
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2 "'-=
THE CITADEL
P1 ⌂ Jaffa Gate # Sep–Jul: 9am–4pm Sat–Thu (to 2pm Fri);
Aug: 9am–5pm Sat–Thu (to 4pm Fri) ∑ tod.org.il
This imposing fortress, also known as the Tower of David, dominates
EXPERIENCE Christian Quarter ramparts offers spectacular views over the city. The name “Tower of David”
Jaffa Gate. Inside, the Tower of David Museum uses multimedia to
present 4,000 years of Jerusalem’s history, while a walk around the
The present-day structure of the Citadel dates mainly from the
Middle Ages and includes additions made in 1532 by Suleyman
the Magnificent. However, excavations have revealed remains
dating back to the 2nd century BC, and indicate that there
were fortifications here from Herodian times. Some believe
minaret, added in 1655.
this supports the view that this is the most likely site of Christ’s
trial and condemnation. On certain evenings (check website for
The mosque
details), the Citadel is illuminated with the Night Spectacular. is also applied to this
was built by the
This sound-and-light show allows spectators to immerse Mamelukes above
themselves in the history of Jerusalem as the streets come a Crusader hall.
alive with images and music.
Spectators can immerse
themselves in the history of
Jerusalem as the streets come
alive with images and music.
Southeast
Tower
Verrochio’s David,
a gift to Jerusalem
from the city of
Florence in Italy
Base of
an early
Islamic tower
INSIDER TIP
Herodian Stone
To identify limestone
blocks carved in the
1st century BC by the
masons of Herod the
Great, look for large
square-cut stones with
indented borders like
those at the base of
A view across the attractive courtyard the Western Wall.
towards the 17th-century minaret
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Must See
EXPLORING THE TOWER OF DAVID MUSEUM
There is a lot to see in the Citadel’s Tower of David
Museum. To help the visitor, there are three well-
signposted routes: the Observation Route runs along
the ramparts for the best panoramic views of the city,
both Old and New; the Excavation Route concentrates
on the archaeological remains in the courtyard; and the
Exhibition Route takes visitors through a series of rooms
tracing the history of the city. This takes the form of
displays, dioramas and models, rather than a collection
of historical artifacts. Visitors can join a free English
tour of the route departing at 11am Sunday to Friday,
and lasting 90 minutes.
This small cupola is
An 1873 model of Jerusalem
is on display in an part of the Mameluke
underground cistern. rebuilding that took
place around 1310.
It is possible to walk
almost the full circuit
of the ramparts. The courtyard
was built above Entrance to café
The Hasmonean a Crusader hall.
city wall is one of
the oldest finds.
Open-air Moat
mosque The entrance
has an L-shaped Traces of the
East Tower In 1917, the capture of hallway to impede Byzantine city
wall can be seen
attackers.
Jerusalem by British at the base of
forces was proclaimed this section
The ramparts in front of this gate. Phasael’s Tower was of wall.
built by Herod the
and courtyard Great and named
of the Citadel after his brother.
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EXPERIENCE MORE
triumphal arch from Hadrian’s
3 " forum, begun in AD 135. The
Alexander Hospice excavations are open to the 1889
public, but only parts of the
Q3 ⌂ Souk el- church can be visited. of the Old City’s gates,
EXPERIENCE Christian Quarter Home to St Alexander’s 4 " symbols of the months, is
Dabbagha § (02) 627
The year the newest
4952 # Excavations:
9am–6pm daily
New Gate, was created
by the Ottomans.
Lutheran Church
Church, the central place
of the Redeemer
of worship for Jerusalem’s
Russian Orthodox community,
Q3 ⌂ 24 Muristan Rd
the Alexander Hospice also
§ (02) 626 6800 # 10am–
largely original. The attractive
houses some important
5pm Mon–Sat (to 4pm
excavations. When founded
in 1859, the site was already
Lutheran hospice, has two
tiers of galleries and dates
This Neo-Romanesque
known to contain ruins of the
original church of the Holy winter) ∑ elcjhl.org cloister, inside the adjacent
church was built for the
from the 13th–14th centuries.
Sepulchre, built in AD 335. German Kaiser Wilhelm II, Perhaps the most interesting
However, in 1882, excava tions and completed in 1898. part of the church, though, is
revealed remains of a Herodian Renewed interest in the Holy the bell tower. After climbing
city wall, proving that the site Land by Europe during the the 177 steps, visitors are
of the Holy Sepulchre church late 19th century had ushered rewarded with some great
was outside the ancient city in a period of restoration and views over the Old City.
walls and adding credence to church building, with many
the claim that it was on the nations wanting to establish
true site of Christ’s crucifixion a religious presence in 5
(p108). Also preserved here Jerusalem. The Lutheran
are remnants of a colonnaded Church of the Redeemer Christian
street and, in was constructed over the Quarter Road
the church, remains of the 11th-century Q3
part of a church of St Mary of the
Latins, built by wealthy Together with David Street,
merchants from Amalfi in which runs from Jaffa Gate
Italy. An even earlier church towards the Muristan,
is thought to have existed Christian Quarter Road is one
on the site from the 5th of the main thoroughfares
century. Many details from in the Christian Quarter.
the medieval church have Marking off the Muristan
been incorporated into the zone, it passes the western
new building, and the side of the Holy Sepulchre,
entrance way, decorated and runs parallel to Souk
with the signs of the Khan el-Zeit. It is
zodiac and lined with shops
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Religious items, crafts,
and antiques for sale along
Christian Quarter Road
selling antiques, Palestinian the old Crusader Patriarchate of Jerusalem were taken
handicrafts (embroidery, of Jerusalem. It is not open care of in this church. After
leather goods and Hebron to non-Muslims. Along the their recovery they decided
glass) and religious articles north side of the mosque to dedicate themselves
(icons, carved olive-wood is El-Khanqa Street, an to helping the sick and
crucifixes and rosaries). attractive, old, stepped street protecting pilgrims visiting
Midway up the road on the with interesting shops. Jerusalem. Founding the
right, down an alley signposted Knights of the Hospital of
for the Holy Sepulchre, a short St John, they later developed
stairway descends to the 6 into the military order of
modest Omar Mosque, with the Hospitallers and played
a distinctive square minaret. Church of St John a key role in the defence
Its name commemorates the Baptist of the Holy Land during
the caliph Omar, the person Q3 ⌂ Christian the Crusades.
generally credited with saving Quarter Rd
the Holy Sepulchre from
Muslim control after Jerusalem The silvery dome of the CHRISTIANITY IN
came under Muslim dominion Church of St John the Baptist THE HOLY LAND
in 638. Asked to go and pray is clearly visible above the Jerusalem is the only
in the church, which would rooftops of the Muristan, but place in the world
almost certainly have led the entrance is harder to spot where most Christian
to it being converted into a among the hordes of people denominations main
mosque, he instead prayed along busy Christian Quarter tain a presence. The
on the steps outside, ensuring Road. A small doorway leads largest are the Melchite
it remained a Christian site. into a courtyard, which in Greek Catholic and the
The Omar mosque was built in turn gives access to the Greek Orthodox. The
1193, by Saladin’s son Aphdal neighbouring Greek Orthodox Russian Orthodox
Ali, beside the old Hospital of monastery and the church Church also has an
the Knights of St John. (which is closed to the public). important presence.
The unassuming Khanqa Founded in the 5th century, Oriental Orthodox
Salahiyya is at the top of this is one of the most ancient churches include the
Christian Quarter Road. Built churches in Jerusalem. Armenian, Ethiopian,
by Saladin between 1187 and After falling into ruin, it was Coptic and Syriac. The
1189 as a monastery for Sufi extensively rebuilt in the Holy Land’s oldest
mystics, it is on the site of 11th century, and apart from Protestant denomi
the two bell towers which are nation is the Anglican
a later addition, the modern Church. About 2 per
church is little changed. cent of the population
The Lutheran Church of the In 1099, many Christian of Israel and the West
Redeemer, retaining some knights who had been Bank is Christian.
medieval elements wounded during the siege
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some of the finest Herodian-
7 " era funerary art ever found.
Museum of the The museum also displays
Greek Orthodox Crusader objects, including a
Patriarchate 12th-century carved capital
from Nazareth, and artifacts
P2 ⌂ Greek Orthodox
Patriarchate Rd § (02) found in the tomb of Baldwin I
627 4941 (king of Jerusalem, 1100–18)
in the Church of the Holy
EXPERIENCE Christian Quarter museum (currently closed carved from rock crystal, with
Tucked away in the back alleys
Sepulchre. Other treasures
include a 12th-century mitre
of the Christian Quarter, this
bands of copper around the
for restoration) houses a
base and set with gems, which
collection of ecclesiastical
may once have contained relics
items that includes icons,
of the Holy Cross. Among a
embroidered vestments,
collection of historical firmans
mitres, chalices and filigree
(imperial edicts), is one that
objects. It also has a fine array
of archaeological finds.
The most interesting
by the caliph Omar in AD 638,
granting the Greek Orthodox
relics are two white-stone
Church custody of Jerusalem’s
sarcophagi found at the purports to have been issued
end of the 19th century in a holy places.
tomb near the present-day
King David Hotel (p142). They
are considered to belong 8
to the family of Herod the
Great, and are covered in Jaffa Gate Mamilla. Despite the great
wonderfully elaborate floral P3 size of the gate, the entrance
decoration, which represents tunnel is narrow; it is also
This is the busiest of the L-shaped – both of these
seven Old City gates. It is measures were designed
Local vendor offering the main gate for traffic and to thwart the advance of
bread for sale outside pedestrians coming from attackers. It was constructed
the historic Jaffa Gate modern West Jerusalem via during the reign of Suleyman
the Magnificent – an exact
date of 1538 is given in a
dedication within the arch on
the outside of the gate. The
breach in the wall through
which cars now pass was
CHRISTIAN
INFORMATION
CENTER
Run by the Franciscans,
this information centre
facing the Citadel
(Tower of David) can
provide details on
Christian communities,
worship services,
churches, holy places
and shrines all over the
Holy Land. Its website
(www.cicts.org) has
useful contacts. From
1859 to 1917, the CIC’s
building served as
Jerusalem’s Austrian
Imperial Post Office.
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Bustling Omar ibn al-
Khattab Square, leading
to the Jaffa Gate
as Bab el-Khalil, from the In the late 19th century, the
Did You Know? Arabic name for Hebron Patriarchate built the hotels
(El-Khalil), after the old road
and shops on the north side,
to the town that started here. including the Neo-Classical
The earliest Christians New Imperial Hotel.
met together in their At a street junction behind
homes; churches did the hotel is a Roman column,
not appear in the Holy 9 erected around AD 200 in
Land until c AD 200. Omar ibn al-Khattab honour of the prefect of
Square Judaea and commander of the
10th Legion. This was one of
P4
made in 1898, in order to the legions that participated
allow the visiting Kaiser Not so much a square as a in the recapture of Jerusalem
Wilhelm II of Germany to widening of the road as it and destruction of the Second
enter the city in his carriage. passes around the Citadel, Temple in AD 70 (p48), and was
Immediately inside the this bustling area just inside subsequently quartered in
gate, set into the wall behind Jaffa Gate is a focal point of the city. The column now
some railings on the left, are Old City life. Located at the supports a street light.
two graves. Tour guides like junction of the Christian, Several cafés with
to tell how these belong Muslim and Armenian pavement tables fringe the
to Suleyman’s architects, quarters, the square takes its east side of the square. Next
executed because they failed name from the caliph Omar, to the cafés is the Christian
to incorporate Mount Zion who captured Jerusalem Information Centre, and,
within the city walls. An for Islam in AD 638. The opposite the entrance to the
alternative legend has it that Muslim name for the plaza Citadel, the Anglican Christ
they were killed to prevent is somewhat misleading, Church compound. Its Neo-
them ever building such as most of the surrounding Gothic church (1849) was the
grand walls for anyone else. property is owned by the first Protestant building in
In actual fact, they are the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate. the Holy Land.
graves of a prominent citizen
and his wife.
Jaffa Gate is one of the Located at the junction of the Christian,
places where visitors can Muslim and Armenian quarters, the
access the ramparts to walk
along the city walls (p102). To square takes its name from the caliph
the Arabs this gate is known Omar who captured Jerusalem for Islam.
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A SHORT WALK
THE CHRISTIAN Did You Know?
QUARTER Zalatimo’s houses the
remains of the door
way of the original
EXPERIENCE Christian Quarter The most visited part of the Old City, the Christian Quarter is a
4thcentury Holy
Distance 500 m (1,650 ft) Nearest bus stop
Sepulchre church.
HaKishle/Armenian Patriarchy Time 15 minutes
head-on collision between commerce and spirituality. At its
heart is the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the most sacred of all
Christian sites. It is surrounded by such a clutter of churches and
hospices that all one can see of its exterior are the domes and
entrance façade. The nearby streets are filled with shops and
stalls that thrive on the pilgrim trade. Respite from the crowds
can be found in the cafés of Muristan Road.
Omar Mosque
Along with David Street,
Christian Quarter Road
(p114) is the area’s main
shopping thoroughfare.
The founding of the
Crusader Knights
C H R I S T I A N Q U A R T E R R O A D
Hospitallers is connected
with the small Church of
St John the Baptist (p115).
START
From the Jaffa Gate
area, David Street is
the main route down
through the Old City.
This cramped, stepped M U R I S TA N R O A D
alley doubles as a busy
tourist bazaar. DAV I D S T R E E T
The intersecting avenues of the
Muristan were created when
the Greek Orthodox Church
redeveloped the area in 1903.
0 metres 30
N
0 yards 30
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The Stabat Mater Altar is
one of numerous chapels and CHRISTIAN
shrines that fill the Church QUARTER
of the Holy Sepulchre (p108),
which commemorates the
Crucifixion and burial of Christ.
Locator Map
For more detail see p106
Khanqa Salahiyya
The entrance gate
to one of the avenues
of the Muristan
FINISH Ethiopian
Monastery (p111)
Zalatimo’s is a famed
confectionery shop.
Pillars of original
Byzantine Holy
Sepulchre church (p108)
The Alexander Hospice (p114)
S O U K E L- D A B B A G H A
early Holy Sepulchre church.
M U R I S TA N R O A D S O U K K H A N E L- Z E I T is built over the ruins of the
The shops in the
Souk el-Dabbagha
sell an array of
religious souvenirs.
The Lutheran Church
of the Redeemer
(p114) has a lovely
medieval cloister. View from the tower
of the Lutheran Church
of the Redeemer
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Hundreds of oil lamps inside St James’s Cathedral
ARMENIAN QUARTER
AND MOUNT ZION
Armenian Christians have lived in Jerusalem since
shortly after AD 301, when their country became
the world’s first Christian state. The Cathedral of
St James was constructed during Crusader rule
on the site of a 5th-century Armenian church,
and became the focal point around which the
neighbourhood evolved over the subsequent
centuries. It still serves as the spiritual centre
of Jerusalem’s Armenian community.
Accessed from the Armenian Quarter through
the Zion Gate, Mount Zion is identified in Jewish
tradition as the site of King David’s tomb. It is also
associated with Jesus’s Last Supper by Christians,
who began worshipping here after Christ’s death.
Originally located inside the Old City, Mount Zion
was left on Jerusalem’s outskirts when the city
walls were rebuilt by Suleyman the Magnificent in
the 1530s – legend has it that this was a mistake
on the part of his engineers. Following the division
of Jerusalem after the 1948 war, Mount Zion was
the closest Jews could get to the Jordanian-
controlled Western Wall. This lasted until 1967,
when the city was reunified after the Six-Day War.
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C H A I N S T R E E T
C H A I N S T R E E T
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R ) L - B A Z A R )
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E
OMAR IBN OMAR IBN
EL-KHA EL-KHA
Jaffa Jaffa TAB SQUARE TAB SQUARE S T M A R K K H A B A D K H A B A D
S T M A R K
Gate Gate
P L U G A T H A - K O T E L
The The A R A R A T A R A R A T JEWISH QUARTER ROAD (HA-YEHUDI M) JEWISH QUARTER ROAD (HA-YEHUDI M)
Citadel Citadel Christ Christ P L U G A T H A - K O T E L
Church Church M I S G A V L A - D A K H M I S G A V L A - D A K H
DAVID’SDAVID’S St Mark’sSt Mark’s
VILLAGEVILLAGE Church Church
A R A R A T A R A R A T JEWISHJEWISH
ARMENIANARMENIAN p86 p86
K H A B A D K H A B A D QUARTERQUARTER
M M City City
I I QUARTERQUARTER HURVA HURVA
KhutsotKhutsot Y Y Walls Walls SQUARE SQUARE
Ha-YotserHa-Yotser A A O R H A - K H A Y I M A - K H A Y I M K H AY E I O L A M K H AY E I O L A M
O R H
L
A A S T J A M E S S T J A M E S
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D
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U U A R A R A T A R A R A T H A - M A L A K H M A L A K H
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R K H A T I V A T E T S Y O N I L R K H A T I V A T E T S Y O N I H A -
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St James’s St James’s
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T T Cathedral Cathedral HA-TUPIM HA-TUPIM
A A A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H A T E R O A D A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H A T E R O A D
L
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T T HA-MALAKH HA-MALAKH
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H H MonasteryMonastery
M A A L E H A - S H A L O M
K K A R A R A T A R A R A T E K E K
KIKAR
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GulbenkianGulbenkian
TIFERET
TIFERET
Library Library YERUSHALAYIMYERUSHALAYIM City M A A L E H A - S H A L O M M A L K I T S E D M A L K I T S E D M A A L O T I R D A V I D M A A L O T I R D A V I D
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YerushalayimYerushalayim MardigianMardigian
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Garden Garden SHAAR TSIYON
M A A L E H A - S H A L O M
Zion Zion
Gate Gate
JERUSALEMJERUSALEM MOUNT OF OLIVESMOUNT OF OLIVES
CITY CENTRECITY CENTRE M A A L E H A - S H A L O M AND CITY OF DAVIDAND CITY OF DAVID
p138 p138 p128 p128
H A R-T Z I O N H A R-T Z I O N St FrancisSt Francis M A L K I T S E D E K M A L K I T S E D E K M A A L O T I R D A V I D M A A L O T I R D A V I D
A R V A N A H AY E V U S I
Church ofChurch of
the Dormitionthe Dormition
K H A T I V A T Y E R U S H A L A Y I M
K H A T I V A T Y E R U S H A L A Y I M A R V A N A H AY E V U S I ArmenianArmenian Last SupperLast Supper Tomb Convent Convent M A L K I T S E M A L K I T S E D W A D I H I L W A S T
Hall of the Hall of the
King David'sKing David's
Tomb
CemeteryCemetery
W A D I H I L W A S T
D
MOUNTMOUNT E K E K
ZIONZION St Peter in St Peter in
Gallicantu Gallicantu
ARMENIANARMENIAN
QUARTER ANDQUARTER AND
MOUNT ZIONMOUNT ZION
Mount ZionMount Zion
Schindler'sSchindler's
Tomb Tomb CemeteryCemetery
0 metres 0 metres 100 N 100 N
0 yards 0 yards 100 100
M A A L E H A - S H A L O M
M A A L E H A - S H A L O M
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C H A I N S T R E E T
C H A I N S T R E E T
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E L - B A Z A R ) L - B A Z A R )
D A V I D S T R E E T ( E
OMAR IBN OMAR IBN ARMENIAN QUARTER
EL-KHA EL-KHA
Jaffa Jaffa TAB SQUARE TAB SQUARE S T M A R K K H A B A D K H A B A D
S T M A R K
Gate Gate AND MOUNT ZION
P L U G A T H A - K O T E L
1 St James’s Cathedral
The The A R A R A T A R A R A T JEWISH QUARTER ROAD (HA-YEHUDI M) JEWISH QUARTER ROAD (HA-YEHUDI M) Experience
Citadel Citadel Christ Christ P L U G A T H A - K O T E L
Church Church M I S G A V L A - D A K H M I S G A V L A - D A K H 2 Gulbenkian Library
DAVID’SDAVID’S St Mark’sSt Mark’s 3 Zion Gate
VILLAGEVILLAGE Church Church 4 St Peter in Gallicantu
A R A R A T A R A R A T JEWISHJEWISH 5 Church of the Dormition
6 Schindler’s Tomb
ARMENIANARMENIAN p86 p86
K H A B A D K H A B A D QUARTERQUARTER 7 St Mark’s Church
M M City City
I I QUARTERQUARTER HURVA HURVA 8 Hall of the Last Supper
KhutsotKhutsot Y Y Walls Walls SQUARE SQUARE
O R H
Ha-YotserHa-Yotser A A O R H A - K H A Y I M A - K H A Y I M K H AY E I O L A M K H AY E I O L A M 9 King David’s Tomb
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A A S T J A M E S S T J A M E S
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M A A L E H A - S H A L O M
K K A R A R A T A R A R A T E K E K
KIKAR
KIKAR
GulbenkianGulbenkian
TIFERET
TIFERET
Library Library YERUSHALAYIMYERUSHALAYIM City M A A L E H A - S H A L O M M A L K I T S E D M A L K I T S E D M A A L O T I R D A V I D M A A L O T I R D A V I D
City
Bonei Bonei Walls Walls
YerushalayimYerushalayim MardigianMardigian
Garden Garden ArmenianArmenian KIKAR
KIKAR
Mitchel Mitchel MuseumMuseum SHAAR SHAAR
TSIYON
TSIYON
SHAAR TSIYON
Garden Garden SHAAR TSIYON
M A A L E H A - S H A L O M
Zion Zion
Gate Gate
JERUSALEMJERUSALEM MOUNT OF OLIVESMOUNT OF OLIVES
CITY CENTRECITY CENTRE M A A L E H A - S H A L O M AND CITY OF DAVIDAND CITY OF DAVID
p138 p138 p128 p128
H A R-T Z I O N H A R-T Z I O N St FrancisSt Francis M A L K I T S E D E K M A L K I T S E D E K M A A L O T I R D A V I D M A A L O T I R D A V I D
A R V A N A H AY E V U S I
Church ofChurch of
the Dormitionthe Dormition
K H A T I V A T Y E R U S H A L A Y I M A R V A N A H AY E V U S I ArmenianArmenian Last SupperLast Supper Tomb Convent Convent M A L K I T S E M A L K I T S E D W A D I H I L W A S T
K H A T I V A T Y E R U S H A L A Y I M
Hall of the Hall of the
King David'sKing David's
Tomb
CemeteryCemetery
W A D I H I L W A S T
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MOUNTMOUNT E K E K
ZIONZION St Peter in St Peter in
Gallicantu Gallicantu
ARMENIANARMENIAN
QUARTER ANDQUARTER AND
MOUNT ZIONMOUNT ZION
Mount ZionMount Zion
Schindler'sSchindler's
Tomb Tomb
CemeteryCemetery
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M A A L E H A - S H A L O M
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EXPERIENCE Armenian Quarter and Mount Zion St James’s Cathedral, the focal
point of Jerusalem’s Armenian
Christian community
EXPERIENCE
1 18th century, when much of traditionally held to have
been a step-brother of
the decoration we see today
St James’s Cathedral was added. Christ and the first bishop
Entrance to the cathedral of Jerusalem. It is used only
Q5 ⌂ Armenian is via a small courtyard with a once a year, in January, on the
Patriarchate Rd § (02)
628 2331 # 6–7:30am & 19th-century fountain. On the occasion of his feast day. The
3–3:30pm daily western wall of the courtyard other throne is the one nor-
are inscriptions in Armenian, mally used by the patriarch.
The Armenian Cathedral is one of which dates from The cathedral contains
one of the most beautiful 1151. Hanging in the vaulted many small shrines and
of all Jerusalem’s sacred porch are wooden bars. Each chapels. The third on the
buildings. It was originally afternoon a priest strikes left as you enter is the most
constructed in the 11th and these with a wooden mallet important: it supposedly
12th centuries over the known as a nakus, to signal holds the head of St James
reputed tomb of St James the start of the service. the Great. Off to the right, the
the Great, the Apostle The cathedral interior is Etchmiadzin Chapel has some
executed by Herod Agrippa I enchanting. It is only dimly beautiful tiling.
(AD 37–44). Many alterations illuminated by a forest of oil When planning a visit,
and additions have subse- lamps hung from the ceiling. bear in mind the very limited
quently been made to the There are no seats; instead opening hours.
building, most notably in the the floors are thickly laid with
Oriental rugs. Four great
square piers divide the main
INSIDER TIP space into three aisles. These 2 "'
Armenian piers, along with the walls, Gulbenkian Library
Ceramics are covered in blue-and-white
Lovely Armenian-style tiles with floral and abstract Q5 ⌂ Armenian
Patriarchate Rd § (02)
ceramics are made at patterns. In the apses at the 628 2331 @ 38 # 2–6pm
several workshops end of each of the three aisles Mon–Fri ∑ armenian-
around Jerusalem's are altars, separated from patriarchate.com/
Old City, including Garo the rest of the church by
Sandrouni (www.garo the iconostasis screen. Two gulbenkian
sandrouni.com) in the thrones stand in the choir; the Located within the complex
Armenian Quarter. one nearest the pier is said to of St James’s Cathedral, the
be that of St James the Less, Gulbenkian Library is one
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3 THE ARMENIANS
Zion Gate IN JERUSALEM
Did You Know?
Q5 In AD 301, Armenia
Philanthropist Zion Gate was constructed by became the world's
Calouste Gulbenkian Suleyman the Magnificent’s first country to adopt
Christianity as its state
made his fortune out of engineers in 1540. It allowed religion and Armenian
Middle Eastern oil. direct access from the city to pilgrims began visiting
the holy sites on Mount Zion. the Holy Land. After
Fighting was particularly World War I, Armenian
fierce here in 1948, when ceramicists from Turkey
of the largest and most Israeli soldiers were desperate were invited by the
important resource centres to breach the walls to relieve British military gover
dedicated to the history the Jewish Quarter, under nor to repair tiles on
and culture of the Armenian siege by the Jordanians. The the Dome of the Rock.
people. It first opened in gate’s exterior is terribly pock Unable to return to
1932 and has a growing marked by bullet holes. A Turkey because of the
collection of more than short distance to the west genocide there, they
100,000 works, both historical there is conspicuous damage settled in Jerusalem.
and contemporary, a large to the base of the wall where
number of which are in soldiers tried to blast their
Armenian. The library also way through with explosives. traditional site of St Peter’s
contains the third largest In Arabic, the gate is known reported denial of Christ,
collection of Armenian as Bab elNabi Daud (Gate of fulfilling the prophecy,
newspapers, along with an the Prophet David), because “Before the cock crows twice,
extensive stock of periodicals of its proximity to the place thou shalt deny me thrice”
and magazines. traditionally known as King (Mark 14: 72). Built in 1931, the
A separate room houses David’s Tomb (p127). church looks modern, but in
rare and early imprints. the crypt are ancient caves
Significant among these is where, it is said, Christ spent
a copy of the inaugural issue the night before being taken
of the official publication of 4 " to Pontius Pilate. Herodian
the Armenian Patriarchate. St Peter in Gallicantu remains have been found
Other interesting objects R6 ⌂ Malki Tsedek Rd under the church and the
are examples of the first § (02) 673 1739 @ 38 garden contains part of a
books printed in the first # 9am– 5pm Mon–Sat Hasmonean stairway, in use
print shop in Jerusalem, in Christ’s time. Mosaics from
which has been active since To the east of Mount Zion, on a previous 5th to 6th
1833 and is located inside the slopes overlooking the century Byzantine church
the Armenian monastery. City of David (p132) and the and monastery
The Patriarchate also Kidron Valley, this church have also been
curates an extraordinary commem orates the unearthed here.
collection of 4,000 ancient
manuscripts, housed in the
Church of St Toros, close
to the library.
St Peter in Gallicantu
looks modern, but in
the crypt are ancient
caves where, it is said,
Christ spent the night
before being taken to
Pontius Pilate.
The church of St Peter in
Gallicantu, on the reputed
site of Peter’s denial of Christ
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5 During the 1948 and 1967 VALLEY OF HINNOM
wars, the church was a strategic
Church of the outpost of Israeli soldiers
Dormition and was damaged in several The valley below Mount
Zion has been associ
battles. The main part of the
Q6 ⌂ Mount Zion ated with fire and death
§ (02) 565 5330 @ 38, 20 church boasts a fine mosaic since at least the time of
# 8:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, floor featuring zodiac symbols the Prophet Jeremiah
11:30am–5pm Sun (closed and the names of saints and (late 7th century BC),
prophets. In the crypt is a
who railed against the
EXPERIENCE Armenian Quarter and Mount Zion Romanesque Benedictine including Eve, Judith, Ruth and and asked to be buried in
noon–1pm for prayer)
wood and ivory sculpture of
sacrifice of children
the “sleeping” Virgin, while the
Crowned by a tall bell tower
here by the pagan cult
of Moloch. In the New
and a dome with four small
walls are adorned with images
corner turrets, the Neo-
of Old Testament women,
Testament, the valley is
portrayed as a place of
Church of the Dormition
“unquenchable fire” in
Esther. On the mezzanine are
which unbelievers will
remains of previous churches.
dominates the Mount Zion
hilltop. The large, airy, white-
suffer for eternity. Thus
it is the source of many
stone church stands on the
Jewish and Christian
site where the Virgin Mary is
6
concepts of hell.
said to have fallen into an
Schindler’s Tomb
“eternal sleep”. After Christ’s
death, according to Christian
P6 ⌂ Mount Zion @ 1, 2
tradition, his mother lived on
Mount Zion until she died.
courageous stand against the
The hill soon became a holy
the path forks left past the
site, and there may have been
Nazis was retold in Steven
Chamber of the Holocaust, a
small museum remembering
Spielberg’s Oscar-winning
a church here as early as the
4th century AD. It is certain Downhill from Zion Gate, Jerusalem. He died in 1974. His
the thousands of Jewish
1993 film, Schindler’s List.
that around the 6th century a communities wiped out by
large basilica was built on the the Nazis. Across the road
site, which later fell into ruins. at the end of the path is a
When the Crusaders came, Christian cemetery, where 7 "
they too erected a church with the grave of German-born St Mark’s Church
chapels to the Dormition of Oskar Schindler is located. Q4 ⌂ 5 Ararat St § (02)
the Virgin and the Last Supper. During World War II, this 628 3304 # 9am–1pm &
Today’s church includes the industrialist went out of his 3–5pm Mon–Sat (to 4pm
Chapel of the Dormition and way to use Jewish prisoners winter)
Dormition Abbey, built in the as labourers in his factory,
early 20th century for Kaiser thus saving over 1,000 This small church is the centre
Wilhelm II and inspired people from the death of the Syrian
by the cathedral camps. He became a Orthodox
in Aachen, symbol of the fight
Germany. against the Holocaust
Church of the Dormition,
bathed in the golden
glow of sunset
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community in Jerusalem and
is rich in biblical associations,
albeit of suspect authenticity.
According to tradition, the
church was built on the site
of the house of Mary, mother
of St Mark the Evangelist. A
stone font in the church is
supposedly that in which the
Virgin Mary was baptized, and
the church also has a painting
on parchment of the Virgin
and Child often attributed to
St Luke. Historians identify it
as dating from a much later
period. Some scholars do
believe, however, that a small
cellar room here was the true
site of the Last Supper, not
Mount Zion.
Franciscan monastery, while The Islamic Mihrab
8 in the 15th century it was inside the Hall of the
Last Supper
turned into a mosque by the
Hall of the Last Supper Turks, who added a mihrab
and some stained-glass. when the Old City was under
Q6 ⌂ Mount Zion
# 8am–6pm daily Jordanian control and the
Western Wall was inaccessible
Located on Mount Zion, 9 to Jews, so they came here to
the Hall of the Last Supper pray. Today, the entrance hall
is on the first floor of a King David’s Tomb is still used as a synagogue,
Gothic building that is all Q6 ⌂ Mount Zion § (02) with separate seating for men
that remains of the large 581 1911 @ 1, 3 # 8am– and women. From the 4th to
church built by the Crusaders 9pm Sat–Thu & hols, 8am– the 15th centuries, the tomb
to commemorate Mary’s 2pm Fri (to 1pm winter) was associated with Pentecost
Dormition. Christian tradition and the death of the Virgin,
maintains that it is on the Beneath the Hall of the Last and, according to tradition, it
site of Christ’s last meal with Supper, on the lower floor, are was here that Christ washed
his Disciples. The room is small chambers venerated as his Disciples’ feet after the
unadorned apart from the King David’s Tomb. The main Last Supper (John 13: 1–17).
Gothic arches dividing it. chamber is bare apart from a
In the Middle Ages the hall cenotaph covered by a drape.
became part of the adjacent The site was first identified
as David’s tomb in the
11th century AD, and
in the 15th century
was incorporated
into a mosque by
the Muslims, who
consider David a true
prophet. In spite of
doubts about the
tomb’s authenticity,
it is one of the most
revered Jewish holy sites.
It was particularly so
between 1948 and 1967,
Statue of King David playing
the harp, at the entrance
to King David’s Tomb
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The Jewish cemetery on the Mount of Olives
MOUNT OF OLIVES
AND CITY OF DAVID
According to the Bible, King David conquered
Jerusalem from the Jebusites around 1000 BC.
During the First Temple period, the core of the
Israelite capital of Jerusalem was situated south
of Mount Moriah (the Temple Mount) on a sloping
ridge now known as the City of David. The city was
captured by the Babylonians in 586 BC and has lain
in ruins ever since. Today, the site is excavated by
archaeologists seeking to determine whether it
was the fortified capital of a strong, centralized
kingdom, as described in the Bible, or a small
mountain town ruled by a local chieftain whose
authority was embellished by the biblical text.
Across the Kidron Valley, the ridge known as
the Mount of Olives (Olivet) has served as a Jewish
burial site since biblical times, in part because
an ancient rabbinic tradition holds that in the
Messianic Era the resurrection of the dead will
start here. According to the New Testament, Jesus
visited the Mount of Olives three times during the
week before his Crucifixion. In AD 70, the Romans’
infamous Legio X Fretensis (10th Legion) camped
here during the bloody siege of Jerusalem.
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MOUNT OF EL-AKHTAL EL-AKHTAL 0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N
OLIVES AND S H M U E L B E N A D A Y A 0 yards 0 yards 300 300
CITY OF DAVID E L- M U Q D A S I E L- M U Q D A S I
S H M U E L B E N A D A Y A
Must See
1 City of David S H E I K H A N B A R S T N B A R S T
S H E I K H A
RockefellerRockefeller
EL-SAWANA
Experience More MuseumMuseum EL-SAWANA
2 Kidron Valley A L - S U A L - S U
A L - S U WA A N A
3 Garden of Gethsemane A L - S U WA A N A
4 Church of All Nations J E R I C H O R O A D W AAN A W AAN A
5 Dominus Flevit Sanctuary ( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O )
6 Church of St Mary Magdalene A L J A D I D S T A L J A D I D S T
J E R I C H O R O A D
7 Tomb of the Virgin Mary R U B A E L - A D A W I Y A R U B A E L - A D A W I Y A
( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O )
8 Jewish Cemeteries YusefiyaYusefiya
9 Mosque of the Ascension St Anne’s St Anne’s CemeteryCemetery E L- K I L A E L- K I L A
Church Church
10 Russian Church of the Ascension
11 Church of the Pater Noster
Tomb of the
Tomb of the Gethsemane E L - M A N S U R I Y A S U R I Y A
E L - M A N
Gethsemane
VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA Virgin Marygin Mary Grotto Grotto Newell Newell A L - H A R D U B S T D U B S T
Vir
S U LEIMAN E L- F A R S I E L- F A R S I
A L - H A R
MUSLIMMUSLIM Garden of Garden of MOUNT OFMOUNT OF Garden Garden S U LEIMAN
QUARTERQUARTER Gethsemane Church of Church of OLIVESOLIVES
Gethsemane
St Mary Magdalene
EL-KHANQA EL-KHANQA ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN p66 p66 St Mary Magdalene
Russian Church
Church of Church of RUB’A EL-ADAWIYA RUB’A EL-ADAWIYA Russian Church
of the A
All Nations All Nations Mosque of Mosque of of the Ascensionscension
the A
Temple Temple the Ascensionscension
Church of Church of Mount Mount
D E R E K H H A - O F E L
the Holythe Holy Kidron Kidron
Sepulchre Sepulchre Valley Valley Dominus Flevit
Dominus Flevit
OLD CITYOLD CITY D E R E K H H A - O F E L Absalom’sAbsalom’s Sanctuary Sanctuary Church of thech of the E - S H E I K H - S H E I K H
Chur
Pater Noster
Pater Noster
E
CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD
CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD
DAVID STREET (EL-BAZAR) CHAIN STREET CHAIN STREET El-Aqsa El-Aqsa Tomb Tomb Tombs of thebs of the
DAVID STREET (EL-BAZAR)
Tom
Mosque Mosque ProphetsProphets
The The WESTERN WESTERN Museum of
Museum of
WALL
Citadel Citadel PLAZA WALL Tomb of Tomb of W A D I A B D A L L A H S T W A D I A B D A L L A H S T
Islamic Art Islamic Art
PLAZA
ZechariahZechariah E - S H E I E - S H E I
JEWISHJEWISH
HURVA
HURVA SQUARE p86 p86 Nakhal Kidron Nakhal Kidron J E R I C H O R O A D ( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O ) K H K H
QUARTERQUARTER
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H AT E
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H AT E St James’sSt James’s M A A L E H A - S H A L O M Hezekiah’sHezekiah’s DEREKH HA-SHILOAKH DEREKH HA-SHILOAKH Cemeteriesmeteries
SQUARE
BATEI
BATEI
MALKI TS EDEK H A - S H A L O M
MAKHASE
MAKHASE
SQUARE
SQUARE
Jewish Jewish
Tunnel Tunnel
CathedralCathedral
Gihon SpringGihon Spring
Ce
David
David
MA’A L O T I R DAV I D
E - S H E I K H
D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
KHATIVAT ETSYONI ETSYONI M A A L E MALKI TS EDEK City of City of JERICHO ROAD JERICHO ROAD E - S H E I K H
J E R I C H O R O A D ( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O )
KHATIVAT
RAS EL-AMUD
DAVIDDAVID
ARMENIANARMENIAN MA’A L O T I R DAV I D CITY OFCITY OF RAS EL-AMUD
QUARTER ANDQUARTER AND
SILWAN
MOUNTMOUNT SILWAN
ZIONZION MOUNT ZIONMOUNT ZION
p120
p120
Pool of Pool of MOUNT OFMOUNT OF
Siloam Siloam
K HATIVAT YERUSHALAYIM CITY OF DAVIDCITY OF DAVID
K HATIVAT YERUSHALAYIM
OLIVES ANDOLIVES AND
Kidron Valley Kidron Valley
G E ’A
G E ’A B E N H I N O M B E N H I N O M
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EL-AKHTAL EL-AKHTAL E L- M U Q D A S I E L- M U Q D A S I S H M U E L B E N A D A Y A 0 metres 0 metres 300 300 300 N
N 300
0 yards 0 yards
S H M U E L B E N A D A Y A
S H E I K H A
S H E I K H A N B A R S T N B A R S T
RockefellerRockefeller
EL-SAWANA
MuseumMuseum EL-SAWANA
A L - S U WA A N A
A L - S U WA A N A
A L - S U
A L - S U
R U B A E L - A D A W I Y A R U B A E L - A D A W I Y A A L J A D I D S T A L J A D I D S T
W AAN A
W AAN A
J E R I C H O R O A D
J E R I C H O R O A D
( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O )
( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O )
YusefiyaYusefiya
St Anne’s St Anne’s CemeteryCemetery E L- K I L A E L- K I L A
Church Church
Tomb of the
Tomb of the Gethsemane E L - M A N S U R I Y A S U R I Y A
E L - M A N
Gethsemane
Vir
VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA Virgin Marygin Mary Grotto Grotto Newell Newell A L - H A R D U B S T D U B S T
S U LEIMAN E L- F A R S I E L- F A R S I
A L - H A R
MUSLIMMUSLIM Garden of Garden of MOUNT OFMOUNT OF Garden Garden S U LEIMAN
QUARTERQUARTER Gethsemane Church of Church of OLIVESOLIVES
Gethsemane
St Mary Magdalene
EL-KHANQA EL-KHANQA ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN p66 p66 St Mary Magdalene
Russian Church
Church of Church of RUB’A EL-ADAWIYA RUB’A EL-ADAWIYA Russian Church
of the A
All Nations All Nations Mosque of Mosque of of the Ascensionscension
the A
Temple Temple the Ascensionscension
Church of Church of Mount Mount
D E R E K H H A - O F E L
the Holythe Holy Kidron Kidron
Sepulchre Sepulchre Valley Valley Dominus Flevit
Dominus Flevit
OLD CITYOLD CITY D E R E K H H A - O F E L Absalom’sAbsalom’s Sanctuary Sanctuary Church of thech of the E - S H E I K H - S H E I K H
Chur
Pater Noster
Pater Noster
E
CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD
CHRISTIAN QUARTER ROAD
DAVID STREET (EL-BAZAR)
DAVID STREET (EL-BAZAR) CHAIN STREET CHAIN STREET El-Aqsa El-Aqsa Tomb Tomb Tombs of thebs of the
Tom
Mosque Mosque ProphetsProphets
The The WESTERN WESTERN Museum of
Museum of
WALL
Citadel Citadel WALL PLAZA Tomb of Tomb of W A D I A B D A L L A H S T W A D I A B D A L L A H S T
Islamic Art Islamic Art
PLAZA
ZechariahZechariah E - S H E I E - S H E I
JEWISHJEWISH
HURVA SQUARE p86 p86 Nakhal Kidron Nakhal Kidron J E R I C H O R O A D ( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O ) K H K H
HURVA
QUARTERQUARTER
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H AT E
A R M E N I A N P A T R I A R C H AT E St James’sSt James’s M A A L E H A - S H A L O M Hezekiah’sHezekiah’s DEREKH HA-SHILOAKH DEREKH HA-SHILOAKH Cemeteriesmeteries
SQUARE
BATEI
BATEI
MALKI TS EDEK H A - S H A L O M
MAKHASE
MAKHASE
SQUARE
SQUARE
Jewish Jewish
Tunnel Tunnel
CathedralCathedral
Gihon SpringGihon Spring
Ce
David
David
MA’A L O T I R DAV I D
E - S H E I K H
D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
D E R E K H H A - S H I L O A K H
KHATIVAT ETSYONI ETSYONI M A A L E MALKI TS EDEK City of City of JERICHO ROAD JERICHO ROAD E - S H E I K H
J E R I C H O R O A D ( D E R E K H Y E R I K H O )
KHATIVAT
RAS EL-AMUD
DAVIDDAVID
ARMENIANARMENIAN MA’A L O T I R DAV I D CITY OFCITY OF RAS EL-AMUD
QUARTER ANDQUARTER AND
MOUNTMOUNT SILWAN
SILWAN
ZIONZION MOUNT ZIONMOUNT ZION
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Pool of Pool of MOUNT OFMOUNT OF
Siloam Siloam
K HATIVAT YERUSHALAYIM CITY OF DAVIDCITY OF DAVID
K HATIVAT YERUSHALAYIM
OLIVES ANDOLIVES AND
Kidron Valley Kidron Valley
G E ’A B E N H I N O M B E N H I N O M
G E ’A
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1 "'
CITY OF DAVID
J8 ⌂ Maalot Ir David # Winter: 8am–5pm Sun–Thu, 8am–2pm Fri &
holiday eves; summer: 8am–7pm Sun–Thu, 8am–4pm Fri & holiday eves
∑ cityofdavid.org.il
EXPERIENCE Mount of Olives and City of David of water supply channels – the exciting walk in thigh-deep water
Believed by archaeologists to be the location of King David’s capital,
this site has turned up finds that include houses from as far back
as the 10th century BC. Underneath the city lies a fascinating system
through Hezekiah’s Tunnel is not to be missed.
South of the Temple Mount, or Haram ash-
Sharif (p70), a rocky ridge runs beside the
Kidron Valley. Its summit was already settled
by the Jebusites, a Canaanite people, in the
20th century BC, making this the oldest part
of Jerusalem. It was from them that David
supposedly took the city for his capital in
about 1000 BC (2 Samuel 5: 6–17). On the
site are remains of buildings up to the city’s
capture by the Babylonians in 586 BC. They
include 13th-century-BC walls belonging to
the Jebusite acropolis, fragments of a palace
attributed to David and houses burned in
the Baby lonian attack. Excavations have also
revealed an impressive water supply system
carved into the rock beneath the city, designed
to ensure that the population could withstand Exploring the underground
sieges during times of war. excavations at the ancient city
The northern part of the
City of David, lying to the
south of Temple Mount
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Must See
Hezekiah’s
City of David Highlights ▶ In the 10th century BC,
Tunnel and
Pool of Siloam
a tunnel, later attributed
to Solomon, was dug to
take water from the
Gihon Spring to fields
in the Kidron Valley.
Assyrian invasion in
about 700 BC, King
THE HISTORIC CITY OF KING DAVID In the face of
Hezekiah had a new
Archaeologists have long debated tunnel built to bring the
whether a United Monarchy under spring water right into the
Kings David and Solomon, described city, so concealing the source of
in the Bible, is a historical fact or a folk the supply. Hezekiah’s Tunnel ran 533 m
tale. Was King David’s Jerusalem a (1,750 ft) from the spring to a large, new storage
resplendent, fortified capital governed pool – the Pool of Siloam – in the south of the city.
by a powerful king, or was it a back The pool is now smaller than it was originally and
water village ruled by a local chieftain? was rebuilt after the Romans sacked Jerusalem
Sceptics argue that no monumental in AD 70. Visitors can wade through the tunnel
fortifications from the 10th century BC from the Gihon Spring – wear shoes and bring
have been found in Jerusalem, but in a flashlight with you.
2018 archaeologists announced that
excavations and carbondating at Warren’s Shaft
Tel ‘Eton in the Hebron Hills indicate a
high degree of social complexity and ▼ Warren’s Shaft is named after Charles Warren,
sophistication, thereby bolstering the its 19th-century English discoverer. At the bottom
United Monarchy thesis. of the vertical shaft is a pool fed by the Gihon
Spring. Nearby is the Jebusites’ 18th-century-BC
city wall, identified by the large, uncut
stone blocks used in its construc-
tion. It was sited to bring
the entrance to Warren’s
Shaft within the confines
of the city.
Royal
Quarter
Archaeologists digging
in the Royal Quarter found
51 First Temple-era bullae
(seal impressions on clay).
One bears the name of Gemaryahu
ben Shafan, mentioned in the biblical
Book of Jeremiah as a scribe of Yehoyakim
(Jehoiakim), King of Judah.
Cistern
Discovered in 1998, this 15-m- (50-ft-) wide
underground reservoir from the First Temple era
could store 250,000 litres (5,500 gal) of water. It
is lined with waterproof plaster, on which the
handprints of the builders can still be seen.
Canaanite Tunnel
Apparently excavated around 1800 BC by the
Canaanites, this now-dry tunnel once transported
water for use in agriculture. Exploring it is a good
option if you’d prefer not to get your feet wet in
nearby Hezekiah’s Tunnel.
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EXPERIENCE Mount of Olives and City of David EXPERIENCE MORE Ancient rockcut tombs in the
Kidron Valley, dating from the
Jewish Second Temple period
2
Period. Absalom’s Tomb, its
Kidron Valley during the Second Temple
roof like an inverted funnel,
was ascribed in medieval times Did You Know?
K6
to King David’s rebellious son,
The Kidron Valley is between Absalom. Behind it, the so- The Mount of Olives is
the Old City and the Mount called Tomb of Jehoshaphat home to more than
of Olives. According to the (the 9th century BC king of 150,000 Jewish graves.
Hebrew prophet Joel, its Judah) features a carved frieze.
middle section – the Valley The pyramid-topped Tomb
of Jehoshaphat (“God shall of Zechariah is actually the
judge”) – is where the nations monument of the adjacent
will be tried on the Day of mausoleum of the priestly B’nei to the 12th century, and DNA
Judgement (Joel 3: 2-3). The area Hezir family. It is also known as tests have revealed that eight
has several impressive tombs the Grotto of St James because of them grew from cuttings
hewn out of solid bedrock St James supposedly hid here from the same mother tree –
while Jesus was arrested. perhaps taken by Christians
who believed the tree to have
MOUNT SCOPUS witnessed Jesus’s agony.
On the next hill north 3
of the Mount of Olives, Garden of
the main campus of the Gethsemane 4
Hebrew University of Church of All Nations
Jerusalem (new.huji. K6 ⌂ Church of All
ac.il) was inaugurated Nations, Mount of Olives K6 ⌂ Jericho Rd
in 1925. Members of @ 236, 257 # 8:30am– §(02) 626 6444 @ 99
its first board of direc noon & 12:30–4pm # 8am–noon & 2–5pm daily
tors included Martin ∑ gethsemane-en. (to 6pm in summer)
Buber, Sigmund Freud custodia.org
and Albert Einstein. The Church of All Nations is
Nearby, the Jerusalem On the grounds of the also known as the Basilica of
War Cemetery (www. Church of All Nations, this quiet the Agony, for the rock in the
cwgc.org) contains the grove of ancient olive trees
graves of 2,515 British, is where Jesus is believed to
Australian and New have prayed on the night of
Zealand forces killed his betrayal and arrest (Mark The beautiful ceiling
in World War II. 14: 32–50). Some of the largest and façade (inset) of the
trees have been carbon-dated Church of All Nations
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Garden of Gethsemane on 5 6
which it is believed Christ
prayed the night before he Dominus Flevit Church of St Mary
was arrested. A 4th-century Sanctuary Magdalene
church here was destroyed L6 ⌂ Mount of K6 ⌂ Mount of Olives
in an earthquake in 747. Olives § (02) 626 6450 § (02) 628 4371 @ 99
The Crusaders built a new # 8–11:45am & 2:30– # 10am–noon Tue & Thu
one, aligned to cover three 5pm daily
outcrops of rock, recalling In 1885, Tsar Alexander III had
Christ’s three prayers during This chapel stands where this Russian Orthodox church
the night. It was consecrated medieval pilgrims identified built in memory of his mother,
in 1170, but fell into disuse a rock as the one on which Maria Alexandrovna. Set amid
after 1345. Jesus sat when he wept over trees, its seven gilded onion
After excavations in the the fate of Jerusalem – the domes are among the most
early 20th century, the present name of the chapel means striking features of the sky-
church was designed by “The Lord Wept”. line seen from the Old City.
Antonio Barluzzi and built in Designed in the shape of a These and other architectural
1924 with funds contri buted teardrop by Italian architect features are in 16th- to 17th-
by 12 nations, hence the Antonio Barluzzi, it was built century Muscovite style.
name and the 12 domes in 1955 over a 7th-century It was consecrated in 1888
bearing national coats of chapel, with part of the in the presence of Grand Duke
arms. In the centre of the original apse preserved. The Sergei Alexandrovich (Tsar
nave, ringed by a wrought- view of the Dome of the Rock Alexander III’s brother) and
iron crown of thorns, is the from the altar window is his wife, Grand Duchess
rock of the Byzantine church. justly famous. Elizabeth Feodorovna, who
The mosaic in the apse A mosaic floor, which was is buried here.
represents Christ’s Agony, preserved in situ outside,
while others depicting his is from a 5th-century
arrest and Judas’s kiss are monastery. The graves
at the sides. The plan of the on view nearby show
Byzantine church is traced the types found
in black marble on the floor, in the 1950s in a
and sections of Byzantine vast cemetery here,
mosaic pavement can in use periodically
also be seen. Outside, the from 1600 BC to AD
gilded mosaic scene on 70. Also on show
the pediment also depicts are some carved
the Agony. stone ossuaries.
134-135_EW_Jerusalem.indd 135 23/11/2018 12:56
EXPERIENCE Mount of Olives and City of David the Virgin Mary, decorated
The interior of the Tomb of
with icons and ornaments
7
Days, when the Messiah comes, the
Tomb of the
Resurrection of the Dead will begin
Virgin Mary
on the Mount of Olives.
K6 ⌂ Jericho Rd @ 99 Some Jews believe that in the End of
§ (02) 628 4054 # 6am–
12:30pm & 2:30–6pm daily
much of it cut into solid rock, cemetery in the world. The
Believed to be where the is Byzantine. The Tomb of first burials took place here in
Disciples entombed the Virgin Mary stands in the eastern caves about 3,000 years ago,
Mary, this underground branch of the crypt, which during the time of the First
sanctuary in the Valley of is decorated with icons and Temple. Some Jews believe
Jehoshaphat is one of the sacred ornaments. Religious that in the End of Days, when
most intimate and mystical services are held here by the Messiah comes, the
holy places in Jerusalem. The Greek, Armenian, Coptic and Resurrection of the Dead will
façade, the impressive flight of Syrian Christians. The place begin on the Mount of Olives –
47 steps and the royal Christian was sanctified by Muslims a big upside, say the mystics,
tombs in side niches halfway because, according to the of being buried here. Famous
down, all date from the 12th 15th-century scholar Mujir graves include those of Eliezer
century. The tomb on the right, al-Din, Muhammad saw a light ben Yehuda, the “Father of
going down, is venerated as over the tomb of his “sister Modern Hebrew”; S Y Agnon,
that of St Anne and St Joachim, Mary” during his Night Journey winner of the Nobel Prize for
Mary’s parents. The first tomb to Jerusalem. Outside, to the Literature; and Israeli Prime
was cut in the hillside here right of the façade, is the Cave Minister Menahem Begin.
in the 1st century AD. The of Gethsemane, or Cave of the
cruciform crypt as seen today, Betrayal, the traditional place
of Judas’s betrayal.
9 "
GREAT VIEW Mosque of
Old City the Ascension
Standing just over 8 " L6 ⌂ Off Ruba el-
800 m (2,625 ft) tall, Jewish Cemeteries Adawiya St, Mount of
the Mount of Olives
is famed for its views L7 ⌂ 52 Jericho Rd, Olives # 8am–5pm daily
Mount of Olives @ 236
(to 2:30pm in winter);
of the Old City, which
encompass the Church § (02) 627 5050 if closed, ring bell
of the Holy Sepulchre, ∑ mountofolives.co.il A Christian noble woman built
the Dome of the Rock and The western slopes of the the first chapel here around
the Hurva Synagogue. Mount of Olives are home to AD 380 to com memorate
the oldest and largest Jewish Christ’s Ascension. It had
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10 11 "'
Russian Church Church of the
of the Ascension Pater Noster
M6 ⌂ Off Ruba el- L6 ⌂ Mount of Olives
Adawiya St, Mount of § (02) 626 4904 # 8:30am–
Olives § (02) 628 4373 noon & 2:30–5pm Mon–Sat
# Summer: 9am–noon Tue This church stands next to the
& Thu; winter: 10am–1pm
Tue & Thu partly restored ruins of one
commissioned by the emperor
This church of a still active Constantine, who sent his
Russian Orthodox convent was mother, St Helena, to supervise
built between 1870 and 1887. construction in AD 326. It was
The bell tower, a prominent above a grotto where the
landmark, was built high Ascension was commem-
enough for pilgrims too infirm orated. By Crusader times, the
to walk to the River Jordan to grotto was known as the place
see it from afar. The 8,000-kg where Christ had taught the
(8-tonne) bell was hauled Disciples the Pater Noster
from Jaffa by Russian pilgrims. (meaning “Our Father”), or
Two 5th-century Armenian Lord’s Prayer (Matthew 6:9).
mosaics were found during The present church and a
construction. A small museum Carmelite monastery were
THE RUSSIANS was built over one, which is built between 1868 and 1872
IN JERUSALEM fragmentary; the other is in by the French Princesse de la
In the 19th century, the Chapel of the Head of John Tour d’Auvergne. Today, the
Europe competed for a the Baptist, inside the church. church and its cloister are
stake in the Holy Land, An iron cage on the floor shows famous for the tiled panels
which was then ruled by where John’s decapitated inscribed with the Pater
the Ottoman Empire. head was supposedly found. Noster in over 100 languages.
The Russian Orthodox
Church, seeing itself
as the successor to
the Byzantine Empire,
bought Jerusalem land
on a grand scale, and
some 200,000 Russian
pilgrims a year visited
the city. In World War I,
the Turks expelled
Russians and seized
their holdings.
three porticoes around an
uncovered space, where dust
miraculously formed the
image of Christ’s footprints.
The Crusaders rebuilt the
chapel as an octagon and
the column bases of their
portico are still visible.
The chapel became a
Muslim shrine after Saladin’s
conquest in 1187. The minaret
and mosque are 17th century.
The peaceful cloister
of the Church of the
Pater Noster
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Colourful umbrellas suspended above a street in Nakhalat Shiv’a
JERUSALEM
CITY CENTRE
By the 1860s, Jerusalem’s Old City was not only
bursting at the seams but was also critically
unhygienic, giving rise to the establishment
of extra-muros Jewish neighbourhoods like
Mishkenot Sha’ananim, Yemin Moshe, Nakhalat
Shiv’a and Mea She’arim. Around the same time,
European national churches constructed a number
of Christian institutions outside the city walls,
intended to cater to pilgrims. They each brought
with them their own architectural styles: the
buildings of the Russian Compound, for instance,
have a distinctly Muscovite spirit. At first, living
outside the Old City – whose gates were locked
tight each night – was seen as recklessly dangerous,
but because of population pressures the New City
continued to grow. During the British Mandate,
construction of new areas, including the city centre
around Ben Yehuda Street, continued apace. Today,
over 95 per cent of Jerusalem’s population lives
outside the Old City and downtown commerce
is concentrated on and around Jaffa Street,
between Zion Square and the bustling Mahane
Yehuda food market.
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F R I E D M A N A B U D AMERICAN
F R I E D M A N A B U D
R E I C H M A N
AMERICAN
M A L’A K H I M A L’A K H I GEULA GEULA Y O E L S O N N E N F EL D KHAYIM OZER BEIT YISRAEL BEIT YISRAEL SACHS SACHS VAN PAASSEN American IBN JUBAIR IBN JUBAIR COLONY 0 metres 0 metres 300 300 N 300 300 N
American
VAN PAASSEN
NABLUS ROAD (DEREKH SHKH E M )
COLONY
Y O E L
0 yards
Colony Hoteltel
Colony Ho
R E I C H M A N
0 yards
M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A E L
M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A E L
KHAYIM OZER S
YOS E F B E N M AT T I T YA H U YOS E F B E N M AT T I T YA H U YA’AKOV ME’IR YA’AKOV ME’IR KAPAKH KAPAKH RAPAPORTHM UE L HA- N AV I ABU TALEB ABU TALEB
BEIT
H A T U R I M H A T U R I M T A K H E M O N I T A K H E M O N I K H A G A I Y O E L K H A G A I Y O E L BLEZER LEIB DAYAN BLEZER RAPAPORT S HM UE L HA- N AV I BEIT ABU UBAIDA EL-SALAH EL-TAWI EL-TAWI K H A L E D I
YISRAEL
Kings’
Kings’
YISRAEL
HATEM
Tombs
Tombs
HATEM
ABU UBAIDA EL-SALAH
S O N N E N F EL D
MUHAMMAD
MUHAMMAD
K H A L E D I B N E L - W A L I D
LEIB DAYAN
St George’s
R A S H I
R A S H I MEA SHEARIM EDELMAN HA-NAGAR HA-NAGAR ST GEORGE ST GEORGE NABLUS ROAD (DEREKH SHKH E M ) St George’s I B N K H A L D U N B AT U TA E L -YA ’A Q U B I L- H A R
A K H W A N E
Cathedral
Cathedral
P I N E S
P I N E S
EDELMAN
A V O D A T Y I S RA’ E L
Y E SH A AY A H U
Y E SH A AY A H U
PRI KHADASH
Shivtei
E L- H A R I R I L- S A F A
PRI KHADASH
MEA
A V O D A T Y I S RA’ E L
Israel
Israel
SHEARIM
D A V I D Y E L L I N
BAB EL-
D A V I D Y E L L I N
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S H O M R E I E M U N I M
Palestinian
KHAGIZ KHAGIZ SHEARIM MEA BAHARAN EIN YA’AKOV EIN YA’AKOV S H O M R E I E M U N I M Shivtei Palestinian S A L A H A I B N K H A L D U N E BAB EL- ZAHRA HTAL
ZAHRA
Mahane Mahane Museum on I B N I B N B AT U TA
Pottery
Yehuda Yehuda Y E H U D I T Y E H U D I T P I N E S DAVID YELLIN BLILIUS K HAY EI A DAM K HAY EI A DAM AVRAHAM MI-SLONIM KHEVRAT SHAS RIM the Seam the Seam HEIL HA-MERKAZ IBN EL-AAS IBN EL-AAS E L- Z A H R A E L- Z A H R A E L - H A R
BLILIUS
P I N E S
MEA SHEARIM MEA SHEARIMI YISRAEL
SHIVTEI YISRAEL
DAVID YELLIN
Museum on PIKUD
PIKUD
SHMUE L BEN ADAYA
Mea She’ari
Mea She’arimm
KHEVRAT SHAS
BAHARAN MEA SHEA
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HA-MERKAZ
ARBA’AT HAMINIM
ARBA’AT HAMINIM MAHANE Davidka Davidka H A - N E V I I M WALLENBERG STRA U S S BNAI BRITH H A - R A V S H M U ’ E L S A L A N T KHANAN HA-SHLISHIT HA-KHOMA NO’OMI KISS St Etienn St Etiennee H A R U N E L- RASH I D NUR EL-DIN
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S A L A H A L - D I N
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MAHANE
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AVRAHAM MI-SLONIM
YEHUDA
YEHUDA
KHANAN
H A - N E V I I M
E L- M U Q D A S I
HA-KHOMA
HA-SHLISHIT
Monastery
Ethiopian
Ethiopian
E L- I S F A H A N I
Church
Church
KI’AKH Square KI’AKH Square BARUKHOF WALLENBERG Thabor House E T Y O PYA Ha-Nevii Ha-Neviim m Hospital Hospital IDO HA-NAVI IDO HA-NAVI CONRAD CONRAD Monastery E L- I S F A H A N I Rockefell Rockefellerer Museum EL-SAWANA
Italian
Italian
IBN SINA
EL-SAWANA
IBN SINA
HA RAV SHMUEL
K A T Z HA-HANDASA
HA RAV SHMUEL
K A T Z HA-HANDASA
BARUKH
BARUKH
BNAI BRITH
Museum
Thabor House
BARUKHOF
SCHICK
SCHICK
E T Y O PYA
Muslim
Muslim
Street - N E V I I M
H A - N E V I I M
Garden
Street
Garden
Ticho
S ULTA N S U L E Y M A N
Ticho
SHOMRON S
Tomb
Tomb
House
SHOMRON A G R I P P A A G R I P P A S House HA- RAV KOOK HA- RAV KOOK MONBAZ H A MONBAZ HA- NEVIIM HA- NEVIIM Solomon’s Qu Cemetery Cemetery S ULTA N S U L E Y M A N MOUNT OF
NISIM BAKHAR
NISIM BAKHAR
MOUNT OF
JAFFA ROAD
JAFFA ROAD
Solomon’s Quarriesarries
S H I L O S H I L O NAKHLA’OT YESHARIM King George (D (Zedekiah’s C OLIVES AND
HELENI HA MALKA
(Zedekiah’s Cave)ave)
OLIVES AND
YA’AVE TS
YA’AVE TS
TAVOR
TAVOR
CITY OF DAVID
MORASHA
LUNZ
LUNZ
Russian
Russian
MUSLIM
Gate
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Gate
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NAKHLA’OT A L I A S H MESILAT YESHARIM A L I A S H King George (DEREKH YAFO) HELENI HA MALKA SHIVTEI YISR AEL DANIEL SHIVTEI YISR AEL MORASHA Damascus Damascus MUSLIM CITY OF DAVID
DANIEL
ZION Compound
Compound
B E T S A L’ E L
B E T S A L’ E L
MESILAT K IN G G E O R G E V BEN YEHUDA BEN HILLEL SQUARE SQUARE Underground Prisoners HA-AYIN KHET HA-AYIN KHET Damascus Damascus QUARTER
ZION
QUARTER
Underground
BEN YEHUDA
Gate
Prisoners
Gate
Museum
BEN HILLEL
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B E N Y E H UDA
S H A M A I
S H A M A I
Ben Yehuda
Ben Yehuda
Tomb of the
and Nakhalat City Hall City Hall EL-W AD EL-W AD Tomb of the
and Nakhalat
SHAAR HA-ARAYOT
Virgin Mary
HA-HISTADRUT
Shiv’a
HA-TSANKHANIM
HILLEL HILLEL Italian Italian Shiv’a JAFFA ROAD JAFFA ROAD SAFRA SHAAR HA-ARAYOT Virgin Mary
SAFRA
RABI AKIVA RABI AKIVA HILLEL HILLEL SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA City Hall City Hall CHRISTIAN
L O D
E V E N S A
SHATZ SHATZ Synagogu Synagoguee SQUARE SQUARE HA-TSANKHANIM SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA
CHRISTIAN
L O D P I R
Jerusalem Time
VIA
VIA
QUARTER
HAMA’ALOT Jerusalem Time DOLOROSA DOLOROSA Church of Church of
All Nations
TRUMPELDOR HAMA’ALOT
TRUMPELDOR
Terra San
ME’IR SHAKHAM
ME’IR SHAKHAM Elevator Elevator Ha-leumi Ha-leumi Terra Santata QUARTER ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN All Nations
Monaster
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Meir Meir BEN SIRA BEN SIRA I YANAI Garden Garden Monasteryy p104 p104 Temple Temple
SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA
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Monastery Garden Garden Cemetery Cemetery Monaster Monasteryy Church of Church of Palace Palace DEREKH HA-OFEL DEREKH HA-OFEL
M O RDEKHAI NARKIS SHMUEL HA N AG
M O RDEKHAI NARKIS SHMUEL HA N AGID
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the Holy
the Holy
AVIDA AVIDA Ha-Atsmaut Ha-Atsmaut HA-EMEK HA-EMEK Sepulchre Sepulchre OLD CITY Absalom’s Absalom’s
OLD CITY
SHDE ROT B E N T SV I
SHDE ROT B E N T SV I
H A K E R E N H A K AY E M E T L E Y I S R A ’ E L Garden Garden MAARAVIM MAARAVIM MAMILLA Mamilla Mamilla DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR) CHAIN STREET CHAIN STREET Tomb Tomb
H A K E R E N H A K AY E M E T L E Y I S R A ’ E L
HA- MAMILLA
DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR)
HA-
A G R O N A G R O N KING D AV I D ST ( DA KING D AV I D ST ( DA I L E B O T T A Quarter Quarter Jaffa
Jaf
Alrovfa
Alrov
Gate
Gate
H E S S H E S S S H A M A S H A M A DAVID’S
DAVID’S
K I N G G E O R G E V
VILLAGE DROR ELIEL SH A L AY I M
K I N G G E O R G E V
VILLAGE
GEORGE ELIOT
GEORGE ELIOT
E M
E M I L E B O T T A
A N T O K O L S K I D I S K I N
A N T O K O L S K I D I S K I N
REHAVIA
REHAVIA L I N COLN YMCA King Davi King Davidd DROR ELIEL
I B N G A B IR O L
I B N G A B IR O L
I B N E Z R A
I B N E Z R A
PELE YOETS
YMCA
L I
R A M B A N R A M B A N BEN M AIMON BEN M AIMON N COLN W A S H I LI N C OLN V I D H A- M E L E Hotel YEMIN YEMIN PELE YOETS KHATIVAT ETSYONI KHATIVAT ETSYONI
Hotel
U S I S H K I N U S I S H K I N
E V E N S A P I R U S I S H K I N U S I S H K I N
DEREKH RUPPIN
DEREKH RUPPIN
D Y A G A ’ O N D Y A G A ’ O N S H D E R O T B E N M A I M O N A R L O Z O R O V A R L O Z O R O V B A L F O U R K E R E N H A -Y E S O D W A S H I N G T O N
S H D E R O T B E N M A I M O N
ELIMELEKH
ELIMELEKH
ADMONI
ADMONI
HA- TIKVA
LI N C OLN V I D H A- M E L E K H) Herod’s
K E R E N H A -Y E S O D
M A P U
Family Tomb
Family Tomb
RA B I S E ’A RA B I S E ’A A K H A D B A L F O U R H A - A M A K H A D H A - A M N G T O N M A P U SHALOM Montefiore’s Windmill Sultan’s Sultan’s
Pool
Pool
TALBIYA
TALBIYA
ALEIKHEM
Montefiore’s
Mitchel
Mitchel
YEMIN MOSHE
Windmill
YEMIN MOSHE
Garden
Garden
NAKHON
Gardens
Gardens
J A B O T I N S K I SHALOM ALEIKHEM Train Bloomfield HA-TSAYA R NAKHON HE B RON R O A D HE B RON R O A D
J A B O T I N S K I
Train
D A V I D M A R C U S D A V I D M A R C U S
Bloomfield HA-TSAYA R
Lion Fountain
Lion Fountain
Cinemath
Cinemathequeeque
Jerusalem Jerusalem YITZHAK ELKHAN A N Theatre Theatre Jerusalem Jerusalem
JERUSALEM Theatre Theatre Liberty Bell
JERUSALEM
Liberty Bell
CITY CENTRE
CITY CENTRE P I N S K E R P I N S K E R Gardens Gardens DAVID REMEZ DAVID REMEZ
YITZHAK ELKHAN A N
Khan DE R EKH K H EVR ON Khan DE R EKH K H EVR ON
Theatre Theatre
D U B N O V D U B N O V
The First The First
Station Station
H A G D U D H A I V R I DOR DOR VE DORSHAN
H A G D U D H A I V R I
DOR DOR VE DORSHAN
MARTIN LUTHER KING
MARTIN LUTHER KING
T S V I G R A E T Z
T S V I G R A E T Z
140-141_EW_Jerusalem.indd 140 23/11/2018 10:18
EW Map template v1 – 24th April 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro
F R I E D M A N A B U D AMERICAN
F R I E D M A N A B U D
R E I C H M A N
AMERICAN
M A L’A K H I M A L’A K H I GEULA GEULA Y O E L S O N N E N F EL D KHAYIM OZER BEIT YISRAEL BEIT YISRAEL SACHS SACHS VAN PAASSEN American IBN JUBAIR IBN JUBAIR COLONY 0 metres 0 metres 300 300 N 300 N
VAN PAASSEN
American
NABLUS ROAD (DEREKH SHKH E M )
Y O E L
COLONY
0 yards
Colony Ho
Colony Hoteltel
R E I C H M A N
0 yards
300
M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A E L
M A L K H E I Y I S R ’A E L
KHAYIM OZER S
YOS E F B E N M AT T I T YA H U YOS E F B E N M AT T I T YA H U YA’AKOV ME’IR YA’AKOV ME’IR KAPAKH KAPAKH RAPAPORTHM UE L HA- N AV I ABU TALEB ABU TALEB
BEIT
H A T U R I M H A T U R I M T A K H E M O N I T A K H E M O N I K H A G A I Y O E L K H A G A I Y O E L BLEZER LEIB DAYAN BLEZER RAPAPORT S HM UE L HA- N AV I BEIT ABU UBAIDA EL-SALAH EL-TAWI EL-TAWI K H A L E D I B N E L
YISRAEL
YISRAEL
Kings’
Kings’
Tombs
HATEM
HATEM
Tombs
ABU UBAIDA EL-SALAH
S O N N E N F EL D
MUHAMMAD
MUHAMMAD
K H A L E D I B N E L - W A L I D
LEIB DAYAN
HA-NAGAR
St George’s
R A S H I
R A S H I MEA SHEARIM EDELMAN EDELMAN HA-NAGAR ST GEORGE ST GEORGE NABLUS ROAD (DEREKH SHKH E M ) St George’s I B N K H A L D U N B AT U TA E L -YA ’A Q U B I L- H A R I R
Cathedral
Cathedral
A K H W A N E
P I N E S
P I N E S
A V O D A T Y I S RA’ E L
Y E SH A AY A H U
Y E SH A AY A H U
PRI KHADASH
E L- H A R I R I L- S A F A
Shivtei
PRI KHADASH
MEA
A V O D A T Y I S RA’ E L
Israel
Israel
SHEARIM
BAB EL-
D A V I D Y E L L I N
D A V I D Y E L L I N
E L -YA ’A Q U B I
S H O M R E I E M U N I M
Palestinian
KHAGIZ KHAGIZ SHEARIM MEA BAHARAN EIN YA’AKOV EIN YA’AKOV S H O M R E I E M U N I M Shivtei Palestinian I B N K H A L D U N E BAB EL- ZAHRA HTAL
ZAHRA
Mahane Mahane Museum on I B N I B N B AT U TA
Pottery
S A L A H A
Yehuda Yehuda Y E H U D I T Y E H U D I T P I N E S DAVID YELLIN BLILIUS K HAY EI A DAM K HAY EI A DAM AVRAHAM MI-SLONIM KHEVRAT SHAS RIM the Seam the Seam HEIL HA-MERKAZ IBN EL-AAS IBN EL-AAS E L- Z A H R A E L- Z A H R A E L - H A R I R I EL-AK E
BLILIUS
P I N E S
SHIVTEI YISRAEL
MEA SHEARIM MEA SHEARIMI YISRAEL
DAVID YELLIN
PIKUD
Museum on PIKUD
SHMUE L BEN ADAYA
Mea She’arimm
Mea She’ari
E L - H A R I R I
BAHARAN MEA SHEA
KHEVRAT SHAS
HEIL
ARBA’AT HAMINIM
HA-MERKAZ
ARBA’AT HAMINIM MAHANE Davidka Davidka H A - N E V I I M WALLENBERG STRA U S S BNAI BRITH H A - R A V S H M U ’ E L S A L A N T KHANAN HA-SHLISHIT HA-KHOMA NO’OMI KISS St Etienn St Etiennee H A R U N E L- RASH I D NUR EL-DIN NUR EL-DIN
STRA U S S
S A L A H A L - D I N
Pottery L - D I N
MAHANE
H A R U N E L- RASH I D
SHIVTE
H A - R A V S H M U ’ E L S A L A N T
NO’OMI KISS
YEHUDA
AVRAHAM MI-SLONIM
YEHUDA
KHANAN
H A - N E V I I M
E L- M U Q D A S I
HA-KHOMA
HA-SHLISHIT
Monastery
Ethiopian
Ethiopian
E L- I S F A H A N I
KI’AKH Square KI’AKH Square BARUKHOF WALLENBERG Thabor House E T Y O PYA Ha-Nevii Church Italian Hospital IDO HA-NAVI IDO HA-NAVI CONRAD CONRAD Monastery E L- I S F A H A N I Rockefell Rockefellerer Museum EL-SAWANA
Church
Italian
IBN SINA
IBN SINA
EL-SAWANA
K A T Z HA-HANDASA
HA RAV SHMUEL
HA RAV SHMUEL
K A T Z HA-HANDASA
BARUKH
BARUKH
Hospital
BNAI BRITH
Museum
Thabor House
BARUKHOF
SCHICK
Ha-Neviim m
E T Y O PYA
SCHICK
Muslim
Muslim
Street - N E V I I M
H A - N E V I I M
Street
Garden
Garden
S ULTA N S U L E Y M A N
Ticho
Cemetery
Ticho
SHOMRON S
Tomb
Tomb
SHOMRON A G R I P P A A G R I P P A S House HA- RAV KOOK HA- RAV KOOK MONBAZ H A MONBAZ HA- NEVIIM HA- NEVIIM Solomon’s Qu Cemetery S ULTA N S U L E Y M A N MOUNT OF
House
NISIM BAKHAR
NISIM BAKHAR
MOUNT OF
JAFFA ROAD
JAFFA ROAD
Solomon’s Quarriesarries
S H I L O S H I L O NAKHLA’OT YESHARIM King George (D (Zedekiah’s C OLIVES AND
HELENI HA MALKA
OLIVES AND
(Zedekiah’s Cave)ave)
YA’AVE TS
YA’AVE TS
TAVOR
TAVOR
CITY OF DAVID
MORASHA
LUNZ
LUNZ
Russian
Russian
NAKHLA’OT A L I A S H MESILAT YESHARIM A L I A S H King George (DEREKH YAFO) HELENI HA MALKA SHIVTEI YISR AEL DANIEL SHIVTEI YISR AEL MORASHA Damascus Damascus MUSLIM CITY OF DAVID
Gate
MUSLIM
p128
Gate
p128
DANIEL
Compound
ZION Compound
ZION
B E T S A L’ E L
B E T S A L’ E L
MESILAT K IN G G E O R G E V BEN YEHUDA BEN HILLEL SQUARE SQUARE Underground Prisoners HA-AYIN KHET HA-AYIN KHET Damascus Damascus QUARTER
QUARTER
Underground
BEN YEHUDA
Gate
Gate
Prisoners
B E N Y E H UDA HA-HISTADRUT K IN G G E O R G E V EREKH YAFO) KHESHIN KHESHIN Museum ELISHA ELISHA p66 p66
B E N Y E H UDA
Museum
BEN HILLEL
S H A M A I
S H A M A I
Ben Yehuda
Ben Yehuda
Tomb of the
and Nakhalat
and Nakhalat City Hall City Hall EL-W AD EL-W AD Tomb of the
SHAAR HA-ARAYOT
Virgin Mary
HA-HISTADRUT
Shiv’a
HILLEL HILLEL Italian Italian Shiv’a JAFFA ROAD JAFFA ROAD SAFRA SHAAR HA-ARAYOT Virgin Mary
HA-TSANKHANIM
SAFRA
RABI AKIVA RABI AKIVA HILLEL HILLEL SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA City Hall City Hall CHRISTIAN
L O D
E V E N S A
SHATZ SHATZ Synagogu Synagoguee SQUARE SQUARE HA-TSANKHANIM SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT SOUK KHAN EL-ZEIT VIA DOLOROSA VIA DOLOROSA
L O D P I R
CHRISTIAN
Jerusalem Time
VIA
VIA
QUARTER
TRUMPELDOR HAMA’ALOT
HAMA’ALOT Jerusalem Time DOLOROSA DOLOROSA Church of Church of
All Nations
TRUMPELDOR
Terra San
ME’IR SHAKHAM Elevator Elevator Ha-leumi Ha-leumi Terra Santata QUARTER ALA ED-DIN ALA ED-DIN All Nations
ME’IR SHAKHAM
Monaster
SHLOMO HA-
SHLOMO HA-
YANA
Meir Meir BEN SIRA BEN SIRA I YANAI Garden Garden Monasteryy p104 p104 Temple Temple
SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA
Lady Tunshuq’s
Ratisbonne
Ratisbonne Sherman Sherman MENASHE BEN YISRA’EL Mamilla MENASHE BEN YISRA’EL Mamilla MELEKH MELEKH Casa Nov Casa Novaa Lady Tunshuq’s Mount Mount
Monastery Garden Garden Cemetery Cemetery Monaster Monasteryy Church of Church of Palace Palace DEREKH HA-OFEL DEREKH HA-OFEL
M O RDEKHAI NARKIS SHMUEL HA N AG
MonasteryID
M O RDEKHAI NARKIS SHMUEL HA N AGID
the Holy
the Holy
AVIDA AVIDA Ha-Atsmaut Ha-Atsmaut HA-EMEK HA-EMEK Sepulchre Sepulchre OLD CITY Absalom’s Absalom’s
OLD CITY
SHDE ROT B E N T SV I
SHDE ROT B E N T SV I
H A K E R E N H A K AY E M E T L E Y I S R A ’ E L Garden Garden MAARAVIM MAARAVIM MAMILLA Mamilla Mamilla DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR) CHAIN STREET CHAIN STREET Tomb Tomb
H A K E R E N H A K AY E M E T L E Y I S R A ’ E L
HA- MAMILLA
DAVID ST (EL-BAZAR)
HA-
A G R O N A G R O N KING D AV I D ST ( DA KING D AV I D ST ( DA I L E B O T T A Quarter Quarter Jaffa
Jaf
Alrovfa
Alrov
Gate
Gate
H E S S H E S S S H A M A S H A M A DAVID’S JERUSALEM CITY CENTRE
DAVID’S
VILLAGE
VILLAGE DROR ELIEL SH A L AY I M
K I N G G E O R G E V
K I N G G E O R G E V
GEORGE ELIOT
GEORGE ELIOT
E M
E M I L E B O T T A
A N T O K O L S K I D I S K I N
A N T O K O L S K I D I S K I N
REHAVIA
REHAVIA L I N COLN YMCA YMCA King Davi King Davidd DROR ELIEL Experience 16 The First Station
I B N G A B IR O L
I B N G A B IR O L
I B N E Z R A
I B N E Z R A
PELE YOETS
L I
R A M B A N R A M B A N BEN M AIMON BEN M AIMON N COLN W A S H I LI N C OLN V I D H A- M E L E Hotel YEMIN YEMIN PELE YOETS KHATIVAT ETSYONI KHATIVAT ETSYONI 1 YMCA 17 St George’s Cathedral
Hotel
E V E N S A P I R U S I S H K I N U S I S H K I N
U S I S H K I N U S I S H K I N
DEREKH RUPPIN
DEREKH RUPPIN
2 King David Hotel
D Y A G A ’ O N D Y A G A ’ O N S H D E R O T B E N M A I M O N A R L O Z O R O V A R L O Z O R O V B A L F O U R K E R E N H A -Y E S O D W A S H I N G T O N K H)
S H D E R O T B E N M A I M O N
ELIMELEKH
ELIMELEKH
ADMONI
1 Chakra
ADMONI
Nakhalat Shiv’a
HA- TIKVA
LI N C OLN V I D H A- M E L E K H) Herod’s
K E R E N H A -Y E S O D
M A P U
Family Tomb
Family Tomb
RA B I S E ’A RA B I S E ’A A K H A D B A L F O U R H A - A M A K H A D H A - A M N G T O N M A P U SHALOM Montefiore’s Windmill Sultan’s Sultan’s 4 Italian Synagogue 2 The Eucalyptus
3 Mona
5 Ticho House
Pool
Pool
TALBIYA
TALBIYA
ALEIKHEM
Montefiore’s
Mitchel
6 Ha-Neviim Street
Mitchel
Stay
YEMIN MOSHE
Windmill
YEMIN MOSHE
Garden
Garden
NAKHON
8 St Etienne Monastery
Gardens
Gardens
5 YMCA Three Arches Hotel
J A B O T I N S K I SHALOM ALEIKHEM Train Bloomfield HA-TSAYA R NAKHON HE B RON R O A D HE B RON R O A D 7 Russian Compound 4 American Colony Hotel
J A B O T I N S K I
9 Solomon’s Quarries
6 Abraham Hostel
Train
D A V I D M A R C U S D A V I D M A R C U S
Bloomfield HA-TSAYA R
Lion Fountain
Lion Fountain
Cinemath
Cinemathequeeque
10 Mea She’arim
Jerusalem Jerusalem YITZHAK ELKHAN A N Theatre Theatre Jerusalem Jerusalem (Zedekiah’s Cave) Shop
DE R EKH K H EVR ON
JERUSALEM Theatre Theatre Liberty Bell 11 Garden Tomb 7 Azoulay Art
JERUSALEM
Liberty Bell
CITY CENTRE
CITY CENTRE P I N S K E R P I N S K E R Gardens Gardens DAVID REMEZ DAVID REMEZ 12 Museum on the Seam 8 Cadim Ceramics Gallery
YITZHAK ELKHAN A N
Khan Khan DE R EKH K H EVR ON 13 Kings’ Tombs 9 Baltinester Brothers
Theatre Theatre 14 American Colony Hotel
D U B N O V D U B N O V
The First The First 15 Rockefeller Museum
Station Station
H A G D U D H A I V R I DOR DOR VE DORSHAN
H A G D U D H A I V R I
DOR DOR VE DORSHAN
MARTIN LUTHER KING
MARTIN LUTHER KING
T S V I G R A E T Z
T S V I G R A E T Z
140-141_EW_Jerusalem.indd 141 23/11/2018 10:18
EXPERIENCE
the dome’s 12 windows
1 " represent the 12 Tribes of
YMCA Israel, the 12 Disciples of Did You Know?
Christ and the 12 Followers
F7 ⌂ 26 King of Muhammad, while depicted described his travels in
Mark Twain visited
EXPERIENCE Jerusalem City Centre Built in 1926–33 by Arthur kind of Art Deco gloss, while architecture. In 1946, the
David St @ 7, 30, 38
Jerusalem in 1867. He
on the chandelier are the
# Tower: 8am–8pm daily
Cross, Crescent and Star of
∑ ymca.org.il
David. The entire decor has a
the best-selling The
Innocents Abroad.
Loomis Harmon, who also
the ethos of its eclectic design
is one of peace and tolerance
created New York’s Empire
between faiths and cultures.
State Building, Jerusalem’s
YMCA is one of the city’s best-
known land marks. It has three
Irgun (Etzel), a right-wing
Zionist paramilitary group
sections: the central body,
2
with a bell tower offering
blew up the hotel’s southern
extraordinary views (for
wing, housing the civilian and
a fee), and two side wings.
F7 ⌂ 23 King David St
The decorative elements King David Hotel led by Menahem Begin,
military headquarters of the
@ 13, 18 ∑ danhotels.com
on the exterior – including British administration, killing
the 5-m (16.5-ft) bas-relief This legendary hotel, hosting 91. The damage wasn’t
of one of the six-winged prime ministers, presidents repaired until 1961; more
seraphim described in the and kings, was built by a floors were added in 1969.
Old Testament (Isaiah 6: 2–3) – consortium of Egyptian- Famous guest have included
reflect a stylized form of Jewish businessmen and Winston Churchill, Eleanor
Oriental Byzantine design, opened in 1930, from when Roosevelt, Ethiopian Emperor
combined with elements of provisions were brought daily Haile Selasie, Anwar Sadat
Romanesque and Islamic art. from Cairo by train. A gem (during his landmark 1977
Yet the exterior, splendid of Mandate-era architecture, visit to Israel), Jordan’s King
as it is, does not prepare its spacious lobbies and Hussein, Britian's Prince
the visitor for the fabulously luxurious public areas were Charles and seven serving
elaborate decor on the inside. designed to resemble US presidents.
Here, design elements palaces of the Biblical
from three different Kings David and
cultures are woven Solomon – look for
through with symbols decorative elements 3 \-=
from the three main inspired by Assyrian, Ben Yehuda and
monotheistic religions. Hittite, Phoenician Nakhalat Shiv'a
In the concert hall, and ancient Greek
E5 @ 20, 23, 27
£ Jaffa Centre
At the heart of western
Jerusalem is the triangle
formed by Jaffa Road, King
George V Street and traffic-
free Ben Yehuda Street. This
area was long a stronghold
of secular Jewish culture and
nightlife, in marked contrast
to the ultra-Orthodox neigh-
bourhoods to the north,
though this is changing as the
city becomes more religious.
The YMCA building,
dominated by its central
tower observation point
142
142-143_EW_Jerusalem.indd 142 23/11/2018 16:24
EW Must-see / Catalogue template v1.1 – 18th May 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
Lively, pedestrianized
Ben Yehuda Street, with
shops and street vendors
Built in the early 1920s, Ben 18th-century synagogue
Yehuda Street, known as the from Conegliano Veneto, near
Midrachov ( “pedestrian Venice in Italy. By the early
mall”), is lined with eateries, 20th century, the synagogue STAY
cafés, souvenir shops and had fallen into disuse, and
street musicians, and stays in 1952 it was decided to
animated until very late. At dismantle the interior and American Colony
the end is Zion Square, from bring it to Jerusalem. It is Hotel
which the stone houses of arguably the most beautiful A favourite of foreign
Nahalat Shiv’a, connected by synagogue in Israel, and correspondents, this
hidden courtyards, stretch on Saturdays and Jewish elegant, luxurious hotel
southward. The name, which holidays the Italian-Jewish has a rich history.
means “Estate of the Seven”, community worships here. H2 ⌂ 1 Louis
refers to the seven Jewish The building also houses Vincent St,
families who established the Museum of Italian- Sheikh Jarrah
the neighbourhood in the Jewish Art, which has some ∑ american colony.com
1860s. Today, it is known for fascinating items, such as ÒÒÒ
boutiques with top-quality medieval ritual objects.
Judaica, jewellery and art. On the lower floor is the
Centre of Studies on Italian YMCA Three
Judaism and a library on Arches Hotel
the same subject. Iconic hotel and
4 "' interfaith centre,
Italian Synagogue known as "Yimca".
F7 ⌂ 26 King
E5 ⌂ 27 Hillel St @ 18, David St ∑ ymca
21, 22, 30 # 10:30am– 3arches.com
4:30pm Sun–Wed,
noon–7pm Thu ÒÒÒ
∑ ijamuseum.org
Abraham Hostel
Originally a German A model hostel with
college constructed in dorm beds, private
the late 19th century, this rooms and city tours.
building now houses an
D4 ⌂ 67 Hanevi’im St
# abrahamhostels.com
ÒÒÒ
An exhibit in the Museum
of Italian Jewish Art in
the Italian Synagogue
143
142-143_EW_Jerusalem.indd 143 23/11/2018 16:24
A collection of historic
Hanukkah menorah
lamps in the Ticho House
gate. Someone will usually
answer the bell and admit the
curious into the courtyard to
EXPERIENCE Jerusalem City Centre archaeological finds.
admire the building’s façade,
complete with embedded
A couple of minutes’ walk
to the north, along narrow,
leafy Etyopya Street, is Ben
Yehuda House, named after
the man responsible for
reviving popular usage of
the Hebrew language. This
was his residence in the early
years of the 20th century.
6
5 "
A little further up the lane
Ticho House
Ha-Neviim Street
is the striking, round form
of the Ethiopian Church,
E4 ⌂ 9 Ha-Rav Kook St F4 @ 1 which sits in beautifully
§ (02) 624 4186 @ 13, 18,
20 # 10am–5pm Sun, One of the oldest streets tended gardens. It was built
Mon, Wed & Thu, 10am– found outside the Old City, between 1873 and 1911 and
10pm Tue, 10am–2pm Fri HaNeviim (Street of the is modelled after churches in
Prophets) marks the dividing
Ethiopia, with its sanctuary
¢ Jewish hols
line between the religious clearly separated from the
Built in the 19th century as and secular halves of modern main body of the church. Just
the luxurious residence of a Jerusalem (ultraOrthodox five minutes’ walk away, back
wealthy Jerusalem family, Mea Shearim lies just to on HaNeviim Street, the
this is one of the city’s the north; the drinking and Ethiopians also have their
loveliest examples of an dining scene of the Russian consulate. It is notable for a
Arab mansion. Its large Compound is to the south). vivid blue and gold mosaic
central drawing room is the Once a prestigious address, on the façade depicting the
focal point of both the HaNeviim is lined with some Lion of Judah.
architecture and the social grand buildings. At No 58
life of the building. In the is Thabor House, the self
early 20th century, it was designed home of Conrad
bought by Dr Abraham Ticho, Schick, a German who arrived 7 "
a famous Jewish ophthalmo in the Holy Land a Protestant Russian Compound
logist who gave the poor missionary and became F5 ⌂ 1 Mishol Hagevura
free treatment, irrespective the city’s most renowned St @ 13, 18, 20
of their ethnic origin or architect of the late 19th
religion. Dr Ticho’s wife, century. The house now The Russians were among
Anna, who grew up and belongs to the Swedish the first people to settle
studied in Vienna, was an Theological Institute, but outside the Old City in the
artist. By day the house was visitors can admire the 19th century (p137). The
a clinic and by night it was eccentric fortresslike main process began around
the centre of Jerusalem’s 1860 when a few acres of
social and intellectual life. land were acquired a short
Nowadays the house is distance outside the city
administered by the Israel Did You Know? walls. The Russians built a
Museum (p156), to which selfcontained compound
Anna Ticho left more than The Pre-Raphaelite to provide lodgings for the
2,000 watercolours and painter William city’s growing number of
drawings. Some of these Holman Hunt once Russian pilgrims, and also
are exhibited here. The lived at 64 Ha-Neviim erected a cathedral for
house also has a charming Street. services. Consecrated in
restaurant overlooking a 1864, the Cathedral of the
lovely garden. Holy Trinity is fashioned in
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The Cathedral of These days the Russians some members of which
the Holy Trinity own only the cathedral, as were jailed here during
many of the other buildings
the British Mandate (p51).
is fashioned in a belonging to the compound
distinctly Muscovite were sold to the Israeli gov- Cathedral of the
style, with eight ernment by the Soviet Union Holy Trinity
drums topped by in 1964, in exchange for ship- # 9am–1pm Tue–Fri, 9am–
noon Sat & Sun
ments of Israeli oranges.
green domes. The building with the
crenellated tower – the Underground Prisoners’
grandest of the former Museum 1917–48
a distinctly Muscovite style, pilgrims’ hostels – is now § (02) 623 3166 # 9am–5pm
with eight drums topped home to the Agriculture Sun–Thu
by green domes. Across the Ministry. The street on which
plaza, under a pavement it stands, Heleni ha-Malka,
grille, is what is known as is one of the city’s nightlife
Herod’s Column, a 12-m centres, filled with bars and
(40-ft) stone pillar, which cafés. The former women’s EAT
historians believe is from hostel, behind the cathedral,
the Byzantine period or was now houses the Underground
intended for the Second Prisoners’ Museum 1917–48, Chakra
Temple before it cracked which is dedicated to Jewish Renowned for creative
and was abandoned. underground movements, Israeli cuisine, including
vegetarian dishes,
made with the finest
ingredients. It also
boasts classy décor and
a fabulous patio.
E6 ⌂ 41 King George
St # 6pm–1am Sun–Fri,
12:30pm–1am Sat
∑ chakra-rest.com
ÒÒÒ
The Eucalyptus
On a beautiful stone
courtyard, this place
serves food inspired by
scenes from the Bible.
G7 ⌂ 14 Khativat
Yerushalayim St, Hutzot
HaYotzer # 5–11pm
Sun–Thu, 8:15–11pm Sat
∑ the-eucalyptus.com
ÒÒÒ
Mona
Outstanding French-
style food, beautifully
and professionally
presented. A great place
for a romantic evening.
D6 ⌂ Artists’ House,
12 Shmuel Ha-nagid St
# 6:30pm–1am Sun–Thu,
12:30–4:30pm &
6pm–1am Fri,
12:30pm–1am Sat
∑ monarest.co.il
Mass at the beautiful ÒÒÒ
Holy Trinity Cathedral in
the Russian Compound
145
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EXPERIENCE Jerusalem City Centre Solomon’s Quarries
The atmospheric
(Zedekiah’s Cave)
8
The present monastery was
Solomon, but it is likely that
St Etienne Monastery base for assaults on the city. has any connection with
Herod took stone from here
built between 1891 and 1901
by the French Dominicans. Its for his many building projects,
H4 ⌂ Nablus Rd § (02)
626 4468 @ 17 # 8am– eclectic design includes an including his modi fication
noon & 12:30–6pm Mon–Sat Oriental tower, Romanesque of the Second Temple. The
walls and Neo-Gothic flying quarry is also known as
The name of this site relates buttresses. Within are remains Zedekiah’s Cave, after the last
to the belief that in AD 439 of the mosaic floor of the king of Judaea who, legend
Cyril of Alexandria interred original Byzantine church, has it, hid here during the
the remains of St Stephen as well as the Ecole Biblique, Babylonian conquest of
(St Etienne in French), the the Holy Land’s first school Jerusalem in 586 BC.
first Christian martyr, in a of biblical archaeology.
basilica built on this spot.
The basilica was destroyed 10
by the Persians in AD 614,
and a subsequent 7th-century 9 " Mea She’arim
chapel on the same site was Solomon’s Quarries F4 @ 1, 9, 13, 34
also destroyed, this time (Zedekiah’s Cave)
by the Crusaders holding H5 ⌂ Sultan Suleyman The heart of ultra-Orthodox
Jerusalem, who feared St § (02) 627 7550 @ 1 (Haredi) Jerusalem, Mea
Saladin would use it as a She’arim, founded in 1874,
# 9am–5pm Sat–Thu
(to 4pm winter) ¢ Fri is home to some of the most
conservative and insular
This is an enormous empty Jewish communities in the
cave stretching under the world. The stone-built
Old City, with its entrance at alleyways, communal
the foot of the wall between courtyards and dwellings –
Damascus and Herod’s gates. both low-rise and high-
Carved out by labourers over density – provide a refuge
thousands of years, it was for Hasidic and Lithuanian
rediscovered in 1854 by (Misnaged) traditionalists,
American missionary James who seek to keep contact
Turner Barclay. Despite the with modern ideas and the
popular name, historians are outside world to an absolute
not convinced that the cave minimum. Dress is traditional
in the extreme, and married
women keep their hair (or,
for the especially modest,
The soaring interior of the their shaved heads) covered
19th-century basilica in beneath a snood (wigs are
St Etienne Monastery considered immodest here).
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Visitors should dress very different configur ation from and economic fault lines.
modestly, too, with women those in use in Christ’s time. The building that it occupies
in skirts that reach below the Today, the tomb is run by a was owned by a Christian
knee and men in long trousers nondenominational NGO, and Arab family before the 1948
and shirts with long sleeves. is popular with Protestants, War (p53); during the con flict
The locals here do not like particularly Anglicans. it served as a front-line IDF
being stared at, so be very position and sustained serious
respectful of local customs damage to the exterior that
and avoid taking photographs. is still visible.
12 "
Museum on the Seam
5
11 G3 ⌂ 4 Chel Ha-Handasa TOP JERUSALEM
FOR CHILDREN
Garden Tomb St v Shivtei Israel
# 10am–5pm Mon, Wed Jerusalem Biblical Zoo
H4 ⌂ Conrad Schick St & Thu, 2–8pm Tue, 10am– Houses a collection of
§ (02) 539 8100 @ 1, 3 2pm Fri ¢Sat & Sun animals mentioned in
# 8am–6pm Mon–Sat ∑ mots.org.il the Bible (p162).
∑ gardentomb.org
This museum is situated
Towards the end of the 19th right on Jerusalem’s “seam” – Israel Museum
century, the British general the heavily fortified dividing Hands-on exhibits and
Charles Gordon, of Khartoum line between the Israeli- and activities (p156).
fame, was visiting Jerusalem Jordanian-controlled parts
and started a dispute among of the city from 1948 to Bloomfield Science
archaeologists. He argued 1967. The unique institution Museum
that this skull-shaped hill was describes itself as a “socio- Kid-oriented exhibits
the Golgotha referred to in political museum of contem- (www.mada.org.il).
the New Testament (Mark 15: porary art”, with the explicit Hezekiah’s Tunnel
22) and that the real burial goal of “raising controversial
site of Jesus Christ was here social issues for public dis- Youngsters love to slosh
through this ancient
and not at the Holy Sepulchre cussion”. The museum hosts water tunnel (p133).
(p108). Excavations carried out temporary exhibitions by
in 1883 did in fact unearth artists from around the Train Theater
some ancient tombs, but world, which unflinchingly Puppet theatre (www.
further study found them to explore both the local and traintheater.co.uk).
date back only to the 9th–7th universal implications of
century BC, with an entirely national, ethnic
The Museum on the
Seam, a unique socio-
political art gallery
146-147_EW_Jerusalem.indd 147 06/12/2018 16:47
It was once one of
13 "
Kings’ Tombs the most important
museums in the
SHOP H3 ⌂ Salah al-Din St @ 23 Middle East and
Despite the name, this single the first to make a
Azoulay Art but elaborate tomb is thought systematic collection
Specializes in delicate, to have been that of Queen of finds from the
Helena of Adiabene. In the
colourful ketubahs
EXPERIENCE Jerusalem City Centre Salomon St ∑ ketubah in Mesopotamia. The tomb the home of a rich Turkish
Holy Land.
1st century AD, she converted
(marriage contracts)
to Judaism and moved to
made using traditional
Jerusalem from her kingdom
paper-cutting
techniques, plus
was named by early explorers
merchant. The name
beautiful Judaica.
American Colony came about
who believed that it housed
E5 ⌂ 4 Yoel Moshe
in the late 19th century, when
members of the dynasty of
David. A small entrance, an
Anna and Horatio Spafford of
azoulayart.com
easily missed plain door in a
Chicago bought the building
wall, leads down into a dimly
and made it the centre of an
Cadim Ceramics
Gallery
stone doors.
dedi cated to good works.
Cooperative gallery
The tomb is currently
When the community broke
showcasing the work of
up in the early 20th century,
closed to the public.
about a dozen virtuoso lit maze of chambers with American religious community
ceramists using various Baron Ustinov, related to the
techniques and styles. actor Peter Ustinov, suggested
E5 ⌂ 4 Yoel Moshe 14 converting the building to
Salomon St § (02) 623 American Colony accommodate pilgrims to the
4869 Hotel Holy Land. Soon after, it was
turned into a beautiful hotel,
which it remains today.
Baltinester Brothers H2 ⌂ 23 Nablus Rd If the cost of staying here
Made-to-order silver § (02) 627 9777 @ 17 overnight proves to be
and gold jewellery with This elegant hotel, built in prohibitive, it is definitely
your name in Hebrew 1865–76, has long been a worth coming for lunch, which
letters; also carries
decorated Kiddish cups. favourite of diplomats and can be taken out in the lovely
journalists. It started life as tree-shaded courtyard.
F5 ⌂ 31 Jaffa St
∑ baltinester
jewelry.com
The flower-decked
courtyard of the
American Colony Hotel
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Part of the fascinating
historic collection housed
in the Rockefeller Museum
cucumber sandwiches, stands
15 '\- 16 -= in startling contrast to the
Rockefeller Museum The First Station chaotic Arab streets of its East
Jerusalem neighbourhood.
J4 ⌂ 27 Sultan Suleyman G9 ⌂ David Remez St
St @ 1, 3, 51 # 10am–3pm @ 7, 38, 74, 75 # Daily The cathedral dates from
Mon, Wed, Thu & Sun, ∑ firststation.co.il 1910 and is named for the
10am–2pm Sat ∑ imj.org.il/ Inaugurated in 1892, the train patron saint of England, who
was actually a Palestinian
en/wings/archaeology/
rockefeller-archaeological- line from Jaffa to the holy city conscript in the Roman army
museum of Jerusalem ended at this occupying Britain. He was
Ottoman-era station, about executed in AD 303 for tearing
This museum was made 1 km (0.6 miles) south of Jaffa up a copy of the emperor
possible by a substantial Gate. Rail service stopped in Diocletian’s decree forbidding
financial gift made in 1927 1998 but the complex has Christianity. He is supposedly
by the American oil magnate found new life as a bustling buried at Lod (ancient Lydda),
John D Rockefeller. British and atmospheric dining, now better known as the site
architect Austin Harrison shopping, entertainment of Ben Gurion airport.
designed the white-stone and cultural centre. A dozen During World War I, the
building along Neo-Gothic restaurants serve hummus, cathedral was the local
lines, with Byzantine- and sandwiches, crêpes, pasta, headquarters of the Turkish
Islamic-style decorative motifs meat, fish and ice cream, with army, and the 1917 truce
and a central courtyard. It snacks and meals suitable for sanctioning British presence
was once one of the most all budgets. Cultural events in Palestine was signed in
important museums in the range from chess marathons the bishop’s quarters. The
Middle East and the first to to salsa nights to qigong. cathedral is not usally open
make a systematic collection Kids are well catered for, with for visitors so it is best to
of finds from the Holy Land. activities galore. call ahead.
These days, it is a branch of
the Israel Museum (p156), with
an impressive collection. 17
Among many remarkable
objects are the stuccowork St George’s Cathedral
from Hisham’s Palace in H3 ⌂ 30 Nablus Rd
Jericho, beams from the Holy § (02) 627 1670 @ 17
Sepulchre church and wooden
panels from El-Aqsa mosque. This archetypal Middle
Other exhibits worth seeing England-style cathedral,
include a fascinating portrait with its pretty, cloistered
modelled on an 8,000-year- courtyard and connotations
old cranium discovered in of vicars, tweeds and
Jericho; a lovely Bronze Age
bull’s head; a Canaanite vase
in the shape of a human head;
sculptures from the time of The Anglican St George’s
the Crusades; and finds from Cathedral, seat of the
Judaean Desert caves. Bishop of Jerusalem
149
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A LONG WALK
WEST JERUSALEM
Distance 4 km (2.5 miles) Walking time 60 minutes Nearest
Station City Hall Light Rail Difficulty Mostly flat
EXPERIENCE Jerusalem City Centre So, while it is nowhere near as ancient as the Old City, it does a weapon that played
The heart of West Jerusalem, centred on Jaffa Road, was largely
developed during the years of the British Mandate (1917–48).
carry a weight of modern history related to the founding of
the Jewish state of Israel. Aside from the scattering of historic
buildings and monuments, this is also the heart of the modern
The small monument
city, with pedestrianized streets of cafés, restaurants and
here of a mortar on a
shops, cultural centres and busy markets. The food stalls
plinth is a Davidka,
around Mahane Yehuda Market make an excellent place
for a refreshment break, as do the cafés at the junction
of Heleni-Ha-Malka and Jaffa Road, and the many more
1948 War.
food and drink establishments in Nakhalat
Shiva. It is a highly rewarding area
to explore, but avoid doing this a large role in the
walk on Friday afternoon or VITAL DINOVICH N A V O N VITAL DINOVICH D A V I D Y E L L I N
Saturday as everything is closed. MEYUKHAS A V O N N
D A V I D Y E L L I N
VALERO VALERO SCHWARZ MEYUKHAS YOSEF BEN MATITYAHU RZ SCHWA YOSEF BEN
P I N E S
Mahane Mahane Y E H U D I T MATITYAHU Y E H U D I T P I N E S DAVID YELLIN
ELIYAHU MANI HA DEKEL ELIYAHU MANI HA DEKEL ETS KHAYIM ETS KHAYIM HA - NEVIIM
DAVID YELLIN
Yehuda
Yehuda
BET YA’AKOV
BET YA’AKOV
MAHANE YEHUDA
HA - NEVIIM
Mahane Yehuda Market MAHANE YEHUDA MAHANEMAHANE Davidka Davidka PRAGUE STRAU S S PRAGUE STRAU S S
(p163) is the city’s prime source YEHUDAYEHUDA BNAI B RITH BNAI B RITH
of fresh produce, from fruit and A G R I P P A S A G R I P P A S Davidka Davidka EthiopianEthiopian
Square
Square
K I ’A K H K I ’A K H JAFFA ROAD EZRAT YISRA’EL YISRA’EL Thabor Thabor ETYOPYA DEVORA HA-NEVI’A DEVORA HA-NEVI’A
vegetables to fish and meat. HA TUT HA TUT WALLENBERG WALLENBERG Church Church
KING GEORGE V EZRAT
House
House
ETYOPYA
JAFFA ROAD
E I L A T NISIM BAKHAR OVADIA SOMEKH E I L A T OVADIA SOMEKH HA KARMEL A G R I P P A S A G R I P P A S BARUKHOF BARUKHOF EVEN KING GEORGE V Ticho House H A - N E V I I M
Ticho
H A - N E V I I M
House
NISIM BAKHAR
0 metres 0 metres 300 N 300 N S H I L O S H I L O EZRA REFA’EL S H I L O S H I L O EZRA REFA’EL YISRA’EL YISRA’EL Kikar Kikar
Efrayim
Efrayim
G I V ’ O N G I V ’ O N MAZKERET MOSHE HA KARMEL MAZKERET MOSHE SHOMRON EVEN di Zahav di Zahav
0 yards 0 yards 300 300 RABI ARYE RABI ARYE
HELENI HA MALKA
HELENI HA MALKA
SHOMRON
HA-RAV AGAN
RAMA George
HA- KHAVATSELET MONBAZ
TAVOR
R AMA R AMA TAVOR MESILAT YESHARIM A L I A S H YESHARIM YA’AVETS George HA- KHAVATSELET MONBAZ
BE’ER SHEVA
RAMA BE’ER SHEVA
MESILAT
GEVA GEVA NAKHLA’OTNAKHLA’OT SHOMRON MAZYA A L I A S H DOROTRI S HONIM YA’AVETS LUNZ S DOROTRIHONIM HA- RAV KOOK TIKHO HORKANOS ELYASHAR Russian Russian G R UZENBERG G R UZENBERG
ELYASHAR
HA- RAV KOOK TIKHO HORKANOS
SQUARE LUNZ
ZION
ZION
SQUARE
CompoundCompound
HA LEVANON
B E T S A L’ E L
B E T S A L’ E L
BEN YEHUDA
SHOMRON MAZYA
YIZRE’E L HA LEVANON YIZRE’E L BEN HILLEL BEN HILLEL BEN YEHUDA FeingoldFeingold Cathedral ofCathedral of
the Holy Trinitythe Holy Trinity
HA-RAV AGAN King ( D E R EKH YAFO)
King ( D E R EKH YAFO)
RIVLIN
House
B E N Y E H U D A
B E N Y E H U D A HA-HISTADRUT HA-HISTADRUT S H A M A I S H A M A I RIVLIN SALOMON House KHESHIN KHESHIN
Italian Italian NAKHALAT SHIV’A NAKHALAT SHIV’A
SALOMON
SynagogueSynagogue
HILLEL HILLEL City HallCity Hall S HIVTEI YISRAEL S HIVTEI YISRAEL
SAFRA
SAFRA
Agrippas Street has HILLEL HILLEL JAFFA ROAD JAFFA ROAD SQUARE SQUARE
traditionally been a poor City City
Hall
Hall
YEDIDYA
area with cheap rents that SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA YEDIDYA SHUSHAN SHUSHAN
have proved attractive to
immigrants, hence all the K O R E S H K O R E S H Former Barclays BankFormer Barclays Bank
signs in Cyrillic. BEN SIRA BEN SIRA
SHLOMO HA-MELEKH
SHLOMO HA-MELEKH
SHLOMTSIYON HA-MALKA
YANAI YANAI
A stall selling fresh fruit and vegetables
at Mahane Yehuda Market
150
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and comprehensive maps for exploring this evocative region.
Tour the fascinating sites of Jerusalem's Old City, sample eclectic Israeli cuisine in vibrant Tel Aviv, or soak in the salty waters of the Dead Sea: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within color-coded chapters. Discover the best of the Holy Land with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Jerusalem, Israel, Petra & Sinai:
• Over 25 color maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of Jerusalem, help you navigate with ease
• Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
• Comprehensive tours and itineraries of the Holy Land designed for every interest and budget
• Illustrations and floor plans show in detail the Dome of the Rock, Jerusalem Archaeological Park, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Mount of Olives, the Israel Museum, Church of the Nativity, the astounding tombs and temples at Petra, and more
• Color photographs of ancient archaeological sites, religious buildings, cliff-hugging monasteries, beauty spots, picturesque vistas, and more
• Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Jerusalem (the Muslim Quarter, the Jewish Quarter, the Christian and Armenian Quarters, the Mount of Olives, the Mount of Zion, and Modern Jerusalem), the Coast and Galilee, the Dead Sea and Negev Desert, Petra and Western Jordan, and the Red Sea and Sinai
• Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the complex history of the region, religions and religious sites, celebrated visitors to the Holy Land, the landscape and wildlife, and festivals and events
• Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop, and sightsee, plus useful Hebrew phrases and transportation, visa, and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Jerusalem, Israel, Petra & Sinai is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to the Holy Land.
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