SWITZERLAND
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SWITZERLAND
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E YE WITNESS
CONTENTS
SWITZERLAND
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CONTENTS
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DISCOVER
DISCOVER SWITZERLAND 6
Welcome to Switzerland ........................... 8 Switzerland Itineraries ..............................22
Reasons to Love Switzerland ..............10 Switzerland Your Way ..............................30
Explore Switzerland ....................................14 A Year in Switzerland ................................54
Getting to Know Switzerland ................16 A Brief History ...............................................56
EXPERIENCE SWITZERLAND 60
Bern ..............................................................62 Zürich ........................................................154
Mittelland, Bernese
Oberland and Valais ..........................80 Northern Switzerland ..................... 172
Central Switzerland
Geneva ......................................................110 and Ticino ...............................................198
Eastern Switzerland
Western Switzerland .......................126 and Graubünden ...............................238
NEED TO KNOW 268
Before You Go ...........................................270 Index .................................................................278
Getting Around .......................................... 272 Phrasebook .................................................285
Practical Information .............................. 276 Acknowledgments ................................... 287
The crystalline River Limmat bisecting Zürich
Left: Decorative elements adorning Basel’s Rathaus
Previous page: A hiker overlooking Lake Lugano
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DISCOVER
The crystalline River Limmat bisecting Zürich
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WELCOME TO
Welcome to Switzerland .............................8 SWITZERLAND
Reasons to Love Switzerland ................10
Forget yodelling, cheese, cuckoo clocks and chocolate, this country has so
Explore Switzerland .....................................14 much more to offer. Magnificent natural beauty, charming medieval villages,
cosmopolitan cities and a healthy dose of alpine air – Switzerland’s small
Getting to Know Switzerland .................16 size belies its beguiling charms. The varied scene is coloured by a fascinating
history and the unique mix of four official languages only add to the appeal.
DISCOVER Welcome to Switzerland Whatever your dream trip to Switzerland includes, this DK Eyewitness
Switzerland Itineraries ...............................22 Travel Guide is your perfect companion.
Switzerland Your Way ............................... 30
A Year in Switzerland .................................54
A Brief History ................................................56
1
2
3
1 A warmly lit train passing
the iconic Matterhorn.
2 Charlie Chaplin statue,
overlooking Lake Geneva.
3 Evening in buzzy
Zürich West.
4 Edelweiss blooming
across Les Pléiades, Vaud.
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WELCOME TO
SWITZERLAND
DISCOVER Welcome to Switzerland Travel Guide is your perfect companion.
Forget yodelling, cheese, cuckoo clocks and chocolate, this country has so
much more to offer. Magnificent natural beauty, charming medieval villages,
cosmopolitan cities and a healthy dose of alpine air – Switzerland’s small
size belies its beguiling charms. The varied scene is coloured by a fascinating
history and the unique mix of four official languages only add to the appeal.
Whatever your dream trip to Switzerland includes, this DK Eyewitness
1
2
3
1 A warmly lit train passing
the iconic Matterhorn.
2 Charlie Chaplin statue,
overlooking Lake Geneva.
3 Evening in buzzy
Zürich West.
4 Edelweiss blooming
across Les Pléiades, Vaud.
8
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Once a group of independent cantons, the Away from its buzzing cities, Switzerland is
Swiss Confederation has come along way since a land of the great outdoors, and the country’s REASONS TO LOVE
its foundation in 1291. Today’s federal state network of hiking, biking and skiing trails is as
is an intriguing blend of different customs, well organized as its public transport system.
languages and dialects, lending the country In a single day, you can encounter breathtaking SWITZERLAND
a rich heritage. The year’s myriad traditional glaciers, high altitude lakes and iconic mountains,
festivals, where alphorn players and Swiss and be back in time for fondue and schnapps.
wrestlers take centre stage, are woven into With so many different things to experience,
the country’s cultural tapestry. And there are Switzerland can seem overwhelming. We’ve Small in size but big on experiences, Switzerland is awash with fascinating
stunning historic land marks to explore across broken the country down into easily navigable sights, exhilarating activities and intriguing traditions, presented in one
the land, from the castles of Bellinzona in the chapters, with detailed itineraries, expert local
south to St Gallen’s abbey quarter in the north. knowledge and colourful, comprehensive maps remarkably beautiful package. Here, we pick some of our favourites.
As much as it is rooted in the past, Switzerland to help you plan the perfect visit. Whether you’re
looks to the future, with cutting-edge nightlife staying for a weekend, a week or longer, this
in Zürich, world-class art galleries in Basel and Eyewitness guide will ensure that you see the 1 BERN’S OLD TOWN
superb fine dining across the country from very best Switzerland has to offer. Enjoy the DISCOVER Reasons to Love Switzerland A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
Geneva to St Moritz. book, and enjoy Switzerland the Swiss capital’s medieval Old
Town is a real beauty. Its charming
lauben (covered walkways) shelter
independent boutiques, little cafés
and buzzing bars hidden beneath
cellar doors (p62).
JOURNEYS2
SCENIC RAIL
Part of the fun of travelling
around Switzerland is the
journey itself. The country’s rail
routes are truly extraordinary,
both as feats of engineering
and for the incredible scenery
they pass through (p40).
3 RURAL TRADITIONS
From Schwingen (wrestling) to
Hornussen (a combination of
golf and baseball), via cowbell
ringing and alphorn playing, the
past is still very much a part of
modern Swiss life (p32).
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REASONS TO LOVE
SWITZERLAND
DISCOVER Reasons to Love Switzerland sights, exhilarating activities and intriguing traditions, presented in one
Small in size but big on experiences, Switzerland is awash with fascinating
remarkably beautiful package. Here, we pick some of our favourites.
1
BERN’S OLD TOWN
A UNESCO World Heritage Site,
the Swiss capital’s medieval Old
Town is a real beauty. Its charming
lauben (covered walkways) shelter
independent boutiques, little cafés
and buzzing bars hidden beneath
cellar doors (p62).
JOURNEYS2
SCENIC RAIL
Part of the fun of travelling
around Switzerland is the
journey itself. The country’s rail
routes are truly extraordinary,
both as feats of engineering
and for the incredible scenery
they pass through (p40).
3 RURAL TRADITIONS
From Schwingen (wrestling) to
Hornussen (a combination of
golf and baseball), via cowbell
ringing and alphorn playing, the
past is still very much a part of
modern Swiss life (p32).
10
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4 LAKE LIFE HISTORIC TREASURES7
Despite being a landlocked country, Whether St Gallen Abbey,
Switzerland’s myriad lakes mean Bellinzona’s castles or the
getting near the water is always fairytale Château de Chillon in
easy. Lakeside beaches throng all Montreux, Switzerland’s rugged
summer with sunbathers and terrain is littered with history-
swimmers, while quiet hiking trails laden sights that rival its natural
lead to remote alpine lagoons (p30). wonders for your attention (p46).
DISCOVER Reasons to Love Switzerland
JUNGFRAU5
SLEDGING IN THE
Take an exhilarating toboggan ride
in this stunning mountainous region.
Top of the list is the longest run in
Europe – the epic 15-km (9-mile)
descent from the top of the Faulhorn
to the village of Grindelwald (p44).
ART IN BASEL8
Art enthusiasts flock to
Switzerland’s cultural
capital for its annual
artistic showpiece Art
Basel, but its world-class
galleries and museums are
a joy all year round (p176).
FONDUE6
Breathe in the irresistible 9 WORLD-CLASS SKIING
aroma of molten cheese. The From the epic powder runs of
moitié-moitié – half Gruyère, Zermatt – the highest resort in
half Vacherin Fribourgeois – is Europe – to tiny, family-friendly
best washed down with a glass slopes, Switzerland offers a
of local Chasselas wine (p36). remarkable choice for skiers,
freeriders and snowboarders
on and off-piste (p86).
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HISTORIC TREASURES7
Whether St Gallen Abbey,
Bellinzona’s castles or the
fairytale Château de Chillon in
Montreux, Switzerland’s rugged
terrain is littered with history-
laden sights that rival its natural
wonders for your attention (p46).
DISCOVER Reasons to Love Switzerland
ART IN BASEL8
Art enthusiasts flock to
Switzerland’s cultural
capital for its annual
artistic showpiece Art
Basel, but its world-class
galleries and museums are
a joy all year round (p176).
9 WORLD-CLASS SKIING
From the epic powder runs of
Zermatt – the highest resort in
Europe – to tiny, family-friendly
slopes, Switzerland offers a
remarkable choice for skiers,
freeriders and snowboarders
on and off-piste (p86).
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10 HUT TO HUT HIKING Ehingen Ehingen
Join the Swiss in their national EXPLORE
pastime – hiking to cosy cabins Rottweil Rottweil GERMAN
GERMAN YY
across the Alps. Whether run
by the Swiss Alpine Club or SWITZERLAND
Freiburg im
privately owned, each offer Freiburg im Memming Memmingenen
the camaraderie of spending Bresigau Bresigau
the night in the mountains. Stockach Stockach
This guide divides Switzerland into Mulhouse Mulhouse Ravensburg
Ravensburg
eight colour-coded sightseeing Kempten Kempten
Schaffhausen
areas, as shown on the map below. Schaffhausen
Find out more about each area on Kreuzlingen
Kreuzlingen
the following pages. Basel Basel Eglisau Eglisau Frauenfeld Frauenfeld Bodensee Bodensee Lindau
Lindau
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
Liestal Liestal SWITZERLAND Winterthur Arbon Arbon
SWITZERLAND
Winterthur
p172 p172 ZÜRICH ZÜRICH
Delémont Delémont p154 p154 Bregenz Bregenz
Olten Olten Dübendorf Dübendorf St Gallen St Gallen
Besançon Besançon Lenzburg Lenzburg
Watwil Watwil
Solothurn Solothurn Zurichsee Zurichsee
Langenthal Langenthal Muri Muri Rapperswil Rapperswil
ZÜRICH’S NIGHTLIFE11 FR ANCE La Chaux- La Chaux- Biel Biel Sursee Sursee Cham Cham Pfäffikon Pfäffikon Walensee Walensee Buchs LIECHTEN- Landeck Landeck
FR ANCE
de-Fonds
de-Fonds
Buchs
LIECHTEN-
The largest city in Switzerland, Bielersee Bielersee Lucerne Lucerne STEIN STEIN Bludenz Bludenz AUS TRIA
AUS TRIA
Zürich is a go-to place for Neuchâtel Neuchâtel Schwyz Schwyz Glarus Glarus
night owls. Head to dynamic Pontarlier Pontarlier Lake Lake Bad Ragaz Bad Ragaz
Langstrasse (p166), a reformed Neuchâtel Neuchâtel Murten Langnau Langnau Stans Stans Urnersee
Urnersee
Murten
red-light district, for pubs, BERN BERN Sarnen Sarnen
clubs and cocktail bars. Yverdon- Yverdon- Fribourg Fribourg p62 p62 Altdorf Altdorf Chur Chur Klosters Klosters
les-Bains les-Bains Scuol Scuol
WESTERN
WESTERN Thun Thun Brienz Brienz Ilanz Ilanz Davos Davos
Brienzersee
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND Thunersee Thunersee Brienzersee EASTERN SWITZERLAND Susch Susch
EASTERN SWITZERLAND
p126 p126 Spiez Spiez
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
Bulle Bulle Interlaken Interlaken AND GRAUBÜNDEN
p238 p238
Lausanne Lausanne Andermatt Andermatt Zillis Zillis Silandro Silandro
MITTELLAND,
MITTELLAND,
BERNESE OBERLAND
Lake Lake Vevey Vevey BERNESE OBERLAND Airolo Airolo
AND VALAIS
Geneva Geneva AND VALAIS St Moritz St Moritz
Nyon Nyon Montreux Montreux
p80 p80 CENTRAL
CENTRAL
SWITZERLAND Mesocco
SWITZERLAND Mesocco
Aigle Aigle Bregaglia Bregaglia
AND TICINO
Sierre Sierre Brig Brig AND TICINO IT AL Y IT AL Y
Monthey Monthey p198 p198
Sion Sion
GENEVA GENEVA
p110 p110
Locarno Locarno Bellinzona Bellinzona
Martigny Martigny Lake Lake
Maggiore Maggiore
Zermatt Zermatt
Annecy Annecy Sallanches Sallanches Lugano Lugano
Lake Lake
Lugano Lugano
THE LAVAUX12 Bourg Bourg
WINE TASTING IN Albertville Albertville Aosta Aosta Varese Varese
Blanketing the hillside above St-Maurice St-Maurice
Lake Geneva (p138), the terraced Chamber Chamberyy IT AL Y IT AL Y
vineyards of the Lavaux are a
fine place for a Swiss wine
initiation. Take a stroll along Ivrea Ivrea
FR ANCE
the myriad wine trails, where FR ANCE Novara Novara MIlan MIlan
vignerons (winegrowers) lure
visitors with tastings.
Vercelli Vercelli
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Ehingen Ehingen
EXPLORE Rottweil Rottweil GERMAN
GERMAN YY
SWITZERLAND Freiburg im Memming Memmingenen
Freiburg im
Bresigau
Bresigau
Stockach Stockach
This guide divides Switzerland into Mulhouse Mulhouse Ravensburg
Ravensburg
eight colour-coded sightseeing Kempten Kempten
Schaffhausen
areas, as shown on the map below. Schaffhausen
Find out more about each area on Kreuzlingen
Kreuzlingen
the following pages. Basel Basel Eglisau Eglisau Frauenfeld Frauenfeld Bodensee Bodensee Lindau
Lindau
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
Liestal Liestal SWITZERLAND Winterthur Arbon Arbon
SWITZERLAND
Winterthur
p172 p172 ZÜRICH ZÜRICH
Delémont Delémont p154 p154 Bregenz Bregenz
Olten Olten Dübendorf Dübendorf St Gallen St Gallen
Besançon Besançon Lenzburg Lenzburg
Watwil Watwil
Solothurn Solothurn Zurichsee Zurichsee
Langenthal
Langenthal Muri Muri Rapperswil Rapperswil
FR ANCE
FR ANCE La Chaux- La Chaux- Sursee Sursee Cham Cham
de-Fonds de-Fonds Biel Biel Pfäffikon Pfäffikon Buchs Buchs LIECHTEN-
LIECHTEN-
Walensee Walensee Bludenz Landeck Landeck
Bielersee Bielersee STEIN STEIN Bludenz
AUS TRIA
Lucerne Lucerne AUS TRIA
Neuchâtel Neuchâtel
Schwyz Schwyz Glarus Glarus
Pontarlier Pontarlier Lake Lake Bad Ragaz Bad Ragaz
Neuchâtel Neuchâtel Langnau Langnau Stans Stans Urnersee
Urnersee
Murten Murten
BERN BERN Sarnen Sarnen
p62 p62
Yverdon- Yverdon- Fribourg Fribourg Altdorf Altdorf Chur Chur Klosters Klosters
les-Bains les-Bains Scuol Scuol
WESTERN Thun Thun Brienz Brienz Ilanz Ilanz Davos Davos
WESTERN
Brienzersee
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND Thunersee Thunersee Brienzersee EASTERN SWITZERLAND Susch Susch
EASTERN SWITZERLAND
p126 p126 Spiez Spiez
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
Bulle Bulle Interlaken Interlaken AND GRAUBÜNDEN
p238 p238
Lausanne Lausanne Andermatt Andermatt Zillis Zillis Silandro Silandro
MITTELLAND,
MITTELLAND,
BERNESE OBERLAND
Lake Lake Vevey Vevey BERNESE OBERLAND Airolo Airolo
Geneva Geneva AND VALAIS St Moritz St Moritz
AND VALAIS
Nyon Nyon Montreux Montreux
p80 p80 CENTRAL
CENTRAL
SWITZERLAND Mesocco
SWITZERLAND Mesocco
Aigle Aigle Bregaglia Bregaglia
AND TICINO
Sierre Sierre Brig Brig AND TICINO IT AL Y IT AL Y
Monthey Monthey p198 p198
Sion Sion
GENEVA GENEVA
p110 p110
Bellinzona
Locarno Locarno Bellinzona
Martigny Martigny Lake Lake
Maggiore Maggiore
Zermatt Zermatt
Annecy Annecy Sallanches Sallanches Lugano Lugano
Lake Lake
Lugano Lugano
Varese Varese
Aosta Aosta
Albertville Albertville
Bourg Bourg
St-Maurice St-Maurice
Chamber Chamberyy IT AL Y IT AL Y
Ivrea Ivrea
FR ANCE
FR ANCE Novara Novara MIlan MIlan
Vercelli Vercelli
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Ehingen Ehingen
GETTING TO KNOW
GERMAN YY
Rottweil Rottweil GERMAN
SWITZERLAND
Freiburg im Memming Memmingenen
Freiburg im
Bresigau Bresigau
Stockach Stockach
Ravensburg
Mulhouse Mulhouse Ravensburg Cradled by Europe’s highest peaks, Switzerland is the capital of alpine
Schaffhausen
Schaffhausen Kempten Kempten drama, and rich in world-class art, culinary adventures and fascinating
folklore. Outside the cities, Switzerland is a land of mesmerising natural
Kreuzlingen beauty with twisting valleys, dizzying mountains and shim mering lakes.
Kreuzlingen
Basel Basel Eglisau Eglisau Frauenfeld Frauenfeld Bodensee Bodensee Lindau
Lindau
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
Liestal Liestal SWITZERLAND Winterthur Arbon Arbon DISCOVER Getting to Know Switzerland
SWITZERLAND
Winterthur
p172 p172 ZÜRICH ZÜRICH
Delémont Delémont p154 p154 Bregenz Bregenz
Olten Olten Dübendorf Dübendorf St Gallen St Gallen
Besançon Besançon Lenzburg Lenzburg
Watwil Watwil
Solothurn Solothurn Zurichsee Zurichsee
Langenthal Langenthal Muri Muri Rapperswil Rapperswil
FR ANCE La Chaux- La Chaux- Sursee Sursee Cham Cham
FR ANCE
de-Fonds de-Fonds Biel Biel Pfäffikon Pfäffikon Buchs Buchs LIECHTEN-
LIECHTEN-
Walensee Walensee Bludenz Landeck Landeck
Bielersee Bielersee STEIN STEIN Bludenz
AUS TRIA
Lucerne Lucerne AUS TRIA
Neuchâtel Neuchâtel
Schwyz Schwyz Glarus Glarus
Pontarlier Pontarlier Lake Lake Bad Ragaz Bad Ragaz
Neuchâtel Neuchâtel Langnau Langnau Stans Stans Urnersee
Urnersee
Murten Murten
BERN BERN Sarnen Sarnen
p62 p62
Yverdon- Yverdon- Fribourg Fribourg Altdorf Altdorf Chur Chur Klosters Klosters
les-Bains les-Bains Scuol Scuol
WESTERN Thun Thun Brienz Brienz Ilanz Ilanz Davos Davos
WESTERN
Brienzersee
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND Thunersee Thunersee Brienzersee EASTERN SWITZERLAND Susch Susch
EASTERN SWITZERLAND
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
p126 p126 Spiez Spiez
Bulle Bulle Interlaken Interlaken AND GRAUBÜNDEN
p238 p238
Lausanne Lausanne Andermatt Andermatt Zillis Zillis Silandro Silandro
MITTELLAND,
MITTELLAND,
BERNESE OBERLAND
Lake Lake Vevey Vevey BERNESE OBERLAND Airolo Airolo
AND VALAIS
Geneva Geneva AND VALAIS St Moritz St Moritz
Nyon Nyon Montreux Montreux
p80 p80 CENTRAL
CENTRAL
SWITZERLAND Mesocco
SWITZERLAND Mesocco
Aigle Aigle Bregaglia Bregaglia
AND TICINO
Sierre Sierre Brig Brig AND TICINO IT AL Y IT AL Y
Monthey Monthey p198 p198
Sion Sion
GENEVA GENEVA
p110 p110
Locarno Locarno Bellinzona
Bellinzona
Martigny Martigny Lake Lake
Maggiore Maggiore
Zermatt Zermatt WESTERN EUROPE
Annecy Annecy Sallanches Sallanches Lugano Lugano BERN Best for
Lake Lake UNITED NETHER- A magnificent Old Town
Lugano Lugano POLAND
KINGDOM LANDS The gateway to the Alps, Switzerland’s oft-overlooked Home to
GERMANY PAGE 62 capital has a wealth of attractions – from its medieval Old
BELGIUM Zytglogge, Kunstmuseum
Varese Varese CZECH Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) to urban swim- Experience
Aosta Aosta
Albertville Albertville REPUBLIC ming in the clean waters of the Aare River. The city is also The boutiques, cafés and
Bourg Bourg the seat of Switzerland’s government and the Houses restaurants hidden under the
St-Maurice St-Maurice of Parliament are often open to the public. Always at
AUSTRIA lauben, covered walkways that
Chamber Chamberyy IT AL Y IT AL Y SWITZERLAND the heart of the country’s intellectual culture, Bern is a line the Old Town streets
laid-back place for serious thinkers. The former haunt
Bay of SLOVENIA
Biscay FRANCE of Albert Einstein has plenty of café-lined squares and
Ivrea Ivrea ITALY CROATIA pretty gardens to chew over the day’s politics, ponder
FR ANCE Novara Novara MIlan MIlan Modern Masters and debate matters of time and space.
FR ANCE
SPAIN Mediterranean
Vercelli Vercelli Sea
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GETTING TO KNOW
SWITZERLAND
DISCOVER Getting to Know Switzerland drama, and rich in world-class art, culinary adventures and fascinating
Cradled by Europe’s highest peaks, Switzerland is the capital of alpine
folklore. Outside the cities, Switzerland is a land of mesmerising natural
beauty with twisting valleys, dizzying mountains and shim mering lakes.
BERN Best for
A magnificent Old Town
PAGE 62 The gateway to the Alps, Switzerland’s oft-overlooked Home to
capital has a wealth of attractions – from its medieval Old
Zytglogge, Kunstmuseum
Town (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) to urban swim-
ming in the clean waters of the Aare River. The city is also Experience
the seat of Switzerland’s government and the Houses The boutiques, cafés and
restaurants hidden under the
of Parliament are often open to the public. Always at lauben, covered walkways that
the heart of the country’s intellectual culture, Bern is a line the Old Town streets
laid-back place for serious thinkers. The former haunt
of Albert Einstein has plenty of café-lined squares and
pretty gardens to chew over the day’s politics, ponder
Modern Masters and debate matters of time and space.
16
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WESTERN
PAGE 126 SWITZERLAND
Stretching from the Jura mountains
and Vaud Alps to the shores of Lakes
Geneva and Neuchâtel, this is one of
the most densely inhabited parts of
the country. City-breakers flock to
buzzing university city Lausanne
and the hip-shaking jazz bars of
iconic cheese of Gruyères, fondue-
friendly Fribourg and the Lavaux’s
wine-growing nirvana. In between
MITTELLAND, Best for DISCOVER Getting to Know Switzerland Montreux, while foodies relish the
all this let time slow down in the
Breathtaking panoramas from
historical watchmaking hubs of
PAGE 80 BERNESE OBERLAND top-of-Europe summits Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds.
AND VALAIS
Home to
One of the most beautiful areas in the country, this is Zermatt and the Matterhorn, Best for
Aletsch Glacier
Jazz, wine and watches
the place to tick off half your bucket list. Mountain lovers Experience Home to
should make a beeline to Interlaken to soak up the Hiking along the incomparable
sky-high vistas and climb the Jungfraujoch or the Eiger. Aletsch Glacier Lake Geneva, Château de Chillon
To the south, in the canton of Valais, looms the country’s Experience
most famous peak: the Matterhorn. For the ultimate Taking the scenic Golden Pass train line
journey, catch the train to see hanging valleys and from Montreux to Château d’Oex
leviathan-sized glaciers from the comfort of a carriage.
GENEVA ZÜRICH
PAGE 110 The capital of the French-speaking PAGE 154 Often ranked as one of the world’s most
part of the country is the jewel of the
liveable cities, there’s more to Zürich
Swiss Lake District. Pocket-sized and
largest city punches above its weight
impeccably clean, it offers timely than a love for money. Switzerland’s
distractions for clock-watchers and as a 21st-century design hub without
more casual travellers. The pedes- losing its medieval mojo. Just take a
trianized Old Town, a mini-maze of stroll through the zigzagging lanes
bijou squares and neo-classical of the Old Town Niederdorf to the
cathedrals, is a delight to get lost in. Limmat River, and you’ll wend a path
Beyond the city limits, you’ll find the past weathered churches, candy-box
famous CERN, the world’s largest clock towers, avant-garde galleries,
particle physics laboratory, the traditional chocolatiers and high-end
creased hills of Saint-Cergue, and boutiques. Most visitors use it as a
enough lakeside vineyards and castles jumping off point, but the city’s mix of
to keep you here longer than planned. culture and cuisine demands attention.
Best for Best for
Museums, culture and lakeside excursions A city buzz
Home to Home to
Musee d’Art et d’Histoire Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum
Experience Experience
Taking a tram to the lovely Italianate Swimming in a badi, an outdoor pool
district of Carouge, with its independent on the lake or river
shops and Saturday market
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WESTERN
PAGE 126 SWITZERLAND
Stretching from the Jura mountains
and Vaud Alps to the shores of Lakes
Geneva and Neuchâtel, this is one of
the most densely inhabited parts of
DISCOVER Getting to Know Switzerland iconic cheese of Gruyères, fondue-
the country. City-breakers flock to
buzzing university city Lausanne
and the hip-shaking jazz bars of
Montreux, while foodies relish the
friendly Fribourg and the Lavaux’s
wine-growing nirvana. In between
all this let time slow down in the
historical watchmaking hubs of
Le Locle and La Chaux-de-Fonds.
Best for
Jazz, wine and watches
Home to
Lake Geneva, Château de Chillon
Experience
Taking the scenic Golden Pass train line
from Montreux to Château d’Oex
ZÜRICH
PAGE 154 Often ranked as one of the world’s most
liveable cities, there’s more to Zürich
than a love for money. Switzerland’s
largest city punches above its weight
as a 21st-century design hub without
losing its medieval mojo. Just take a
stroll through the zigzagging lanes
of the Old Town Niederdorf to the
Limmat River, and you’ll wend a path
past weathered churches, candy-box
clock towers, avant-garde galleries,
traditional chocolatiers and high-end
boutiques. Most visitors use it as a
jumping off point, but the city’s mix of
culture and cuisine demands attention.
Best for
A city buzz
Home to
Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum
Experience
Swimming in a badi, an outdoor pool
on the lake or river
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DISCOVER Getting to Know Switzerland
NORTHERN Best for CENTRAL Best for
World-renowned art,
Superlative scenery and
PAGE 172 SWITZERLAND thermal springs PAGE 198 SWITZERLAND tasty Italian food
AND TICINO
Home to
Home to
Encompassing the river lands of the Rhine, which winds
from Basel’s Old Town to Lake Constance (Bodensee) in
Experience
Experience
the east, this region is full of contrasts. Basel is well Basel Kunstmuseum, Baden Most journeys through this alluring region begin in Kloster Einsiedln, Bellinzona
Lucerne, where a boat trip on the Vierwaldstattersee
known for its ambitious skyline – shaped by architects The huge annual expo Art Basel Riding up – and up – the
such as Mario Botta and Zaha Hadid – and few cities drifts past jaw-dropping cliffs. To the south is the town Burgenstock mountain’s
of Andermatt, with five-star hotels and golf courses.
are so defined by their relationship with art. Elsewhere, On the other side of the Gotthard Tunnel spills Italian- spine-tingling outdoor elevator
hot springs have been attracting visitors to Baden speaking Switzerland, home to the lakeside towns of
since the Romans. To the east, the rolling vineyards
of Regensberg yield some of the prettiest landscapes. Locarno and Ascona, clifftop monasteries, crystal-clear
swimming spots, and belly-hugging pizza and pasta.
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DISCOVER Getting to Know Switzerland
CENTRAL Best for
Superlative scenery and
PAGE 198 SWITZERLAND tasty Italian food
AND TICINO
Home to
Most journeys through this alluring region begin in Kloster Einsiedln, Bellinzona
Experience
Lucerne, where a boat trip on the Vierwaldstattersee Riding up – and up – the
drifts past jaw-dropping cliffs. To the south is the town Burgenstock mountain’s
of Andermatt, with five-star hotels and golf courses. spine-tingling outdoor elevator
On the other side of the Gotthard Tunnel spills Italian-
speaking Switzerland, home to the lakeside towns of
Locarno and Ascona, clifftop monasteries, crystal-clear
swimming spots, and belly-hugging pizza and pasta.
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DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries
1
2
EASTERN Best for
Outdoor thrills, folk singing
PAGE 238 SWITZERLAND and traditional life 3
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
Home to
The Switzerland of storybooks is alive in the east. Dairy UNESCO-protected St Gallen
Abbey, Swiss National Park
farmers and cheese-makers get to work in postcard- Experience
ready mountain huts and picturesque farmsteads, Participating in local celebrations
while sawtooth peaks rise above turquoise lakes. The
region is known for outdoor adventures and its famous 1 Bern’s monumental
15th-century Münster.
“champagne powder” surrounding the ski towns of Arosa
and Davos. Beyond the mountain resorts lie tranquil 2 A ski resort in the
Lake Constance and historic St Gallen to the north. beautiful Bernese Oberland.
3 Boats on Oeschinsee.
4 4 Interlaken’s Old Town.
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DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries
1
2
3
1 Bern’s monumental
15th-century Münster.
2 A ski resort in the
beautiful Bernese Oberland.
3 Boats on Oeschinsee.
4 4 Interlaken’s Old Town.
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Switzerland’s diverse regions are bursting with historic towns,
breathtaking natural scenery and myriad activities. These
itineraries will help you make the most of your visit to this
beautiful country.
4 DAYS
in Bern and the Bernese Oberland DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries
Day 1
film, On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Dine
Morning Start the day with a stroll round on one of the legendary 007 burgers,
the arcades and boutiques of Bern’s Old then head down to the car-free village of
City (p62). Swing past the 15th-century Mürren (p98) for a night at the Alpenruh
Münster to marvel at its intricate hotel (p95), near the cable terminus.
tympanum before heading to the
Zytglogge clock tower (p70). Day 3 1
Afternoon After lunch in the atmospheric
Kornhauskeller (p73), take bus 12 to the Morning Hike or snowboard along some
wave-like Zentrum Paul Klee (p77) and of Mürren’s 51.5 km (32 miles) of trails,
immerse yourself in modern art. then take the train to have coffee at the
Evening Head to the Altes Tramdepot historic Bellevue des Alpes hotel (p99).
(p75) for a great view of the Old City and Afternoon A short walk from the hotel
enjoy traditional Bernese cuisine with a yields fabulous views to the Männlichen,
stein of house beer, brewed in copper and deposits walkers at Eigergletscher
vats right in the centre of the restaurant. train station. The train tunnels up through
the moun tains to Jungfraujoch (p97) for
Day 2 incredible glacial vistas. It’s a 3-hour hike 2 3
on the Eiger Ultra Trail (or a quick cable
Morning Take the train to the town of car ride) back down to Grindelwald (p96).
Interlaken (p84), which sits between Evening Ease those tired muscles in the
the lakes Thun and Brienz. Explore sauna and spa rooms of Grindelwald’s
Jungfrau Park (p97), then head to the luxurious Grand Hotel Regina (p99).
pretty village of Lauterbrunnen (p96).
Afternoon Dine on a traditional Swiss Day 4
lunch of Flammenkuchen (flambéed tarts) 5
and fondue. The 141 bus will take you Morning Ride the cable car to Pfingstegg
through lush countryside to the breath- for a walk through Gletscherschlucht, a
taking Trümmelbach Falls, Europe’s spectacular canyon of rock and ice with
largest subterranean waterfall, and one great views over the Bernese Oberland 1 People entering the sobering
of many that surround the village. From mountains. For a speedy return, head International Museum of the
here you can hike into the “Black Monk” back to Pfingstegg and zoom down the Red Cross and Red Crescent.
mountain to experience the full majesty summer toboggan run to Grindelwald.
of the ten glacier falls. Afternoon Enjoy a light lunch at C und M 2 The audience mingling at the
iconic Montreux Jazz Festival.
Evening Take the 141 onwards to the café (p96), then take the train back to
village of Stechelberg, where you can Interlaken West for a leisurely steamer 3 Rolling hills leading to Lutry.
ascend the 2,970-m (9,744-ft) Schilthorn ride over Thunersee to the town that 4 Charlie Chaplin standing on
via a four-stage cable car. Its solar-powered gave the lake its name. The pier is a few the banks of Lake Geneva.
revolving restaurant, Piz Gloria (p96), fea- minutes’ walk from the railway station 5 A visitor exploring a display
tured as Blofeld’s lair in the 1969 Bond for a train back to Bern. 4 at the Olympic Museum.
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DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries
1
2 3
5
1 People entering the sobering
International Museum of the
Red Cross and Red Crescent.
2 The audience mingling at the
iconic Montreux Jazz Festival.
3 Rolling hills leading to Lutry.
4 Charlie Chaplin standing on
the banks of Lake Geneva.
5 A visitor exploring a display
4 at the Olympic Museum.
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5 DAYS 1
in Western Switzerland DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries 4
Day 1 Afternoon From St-Saphorin, it’s a three-
Morning Starting at Geneva’s Jet d’Eau minute train ride to Vevey (p144) and
(p120), stroll north into the Old Town for Chaplin’s World, where re-created film
coffee in the main square. Around the sets and curated displays of personal 2 3
corner is Cathédrale Saint-Pierre (p116), items reveal the man behind the “Little
where far-reaching views reward those Tramp”. A ferry will get you there from
who climb the north tower. Lutry in all of 30 minutes.
Afternoon After a spot of lunch at Café Evening Dine overlooking the water at 8 DAYS
Papon (www.cafepapon.ch), catch the tram Vevey’s KJU (p151), which turns into a club
to visit the International Museum of the as the night wears on.
Red Cross and Red Crescent (p122).
Evening Feast on contemporary Swiss Day 4 in Central Switzerland 5
cuisine at Chez Grégoire (www.chez-
gregoire.ch) and test the mixologist’s Morning It’s only five minutes by train
skills at Atelier Cocktail Club (p121). from Vevey to Montreux (p145), where you
can follow the lakefront to Château de Day 1 Day 3
Chillon (p140). Spend an hour or two
Day 2 exploring the medieval island and the Hop on a train at Basel (p176) and speed Catch the train to Lucerne (p202), and
13th-century chapel of St-George. past country side to Schwyz (p226), the get carried away in the Swiss Transport
Morning Take the train to Lausanne birthplace of modern Switzerland, Museum (p208). Take a picnic aboard a
(p130) and explore the market (Wed and Afternoon Catch a boat back to Montreux stopping in Zug for lunch. Once in Schwyz, boat from the adjacent pier across to
Sat, weekly). Climb the medieval mar ket in time for lunch, then head to the sum- check into Wysses Rössli (wysses-roessli- Alpnachstad for the world’s steepest rack
steps to visit the beautiful cathe dral mit of Rochers-de-Naye via a 55-minute schwyz.ch), a traditionally furnished railway to wander Mount Pilatus (p212).
(p136). Break for lunch at L’Eveché (www. cogwheel railway ride with stunning views 17th-century hotel overlooking the main Then descend from Alpnachstad by the
leveche.ch). over Lake Geneva (p138). square. Then find a café for a forti fying cable car to Fräkmüntegg, where there is
Afternoon Take the M2 metro down to Evening Enjoy dinner and drinks at the Kirsch (cherry schnapps); the area is a hair-raising toboggan run, and arrive in
Ouchy (p135) and the absorbing displays legendary Montreux Jazz Café. famous for it. Later, enjoy seasonal, Lucerne’s city centre in time for dinner.
of the Olympic Museum (p134). From here, modern dishes at family-run restaurant
it’s an easy stroll to seasonal bar La Jetée Day 5 Schwyzer-Stübli (www.schwyzer-stubli.ch). Day 4
de la Compagnie (p135) for an apéro. Start the day with a rendezvous with
Evening Book ahead for a table at live Morning Take the train to the cheese- Day 2 Modernist Masters at Lucerne’s Rosengart
jazz club Chorus (p132) and enjoy dinner making town of Gruyères (p146). Sample Spend a couple of hours at the Museum Collection. Cross the Seebrücke to the
and drinks before the show starts. its famous cheese and learn how it’s of the Swiss Charters, where the earliest Bourbaki Panorama to see the world’s
made at La Maison du Gruyère. Then
head up the hill into the medieval centre. documents of the Swiss Confederation largest round mural, a visual history of
Day 3 Afternoon Tuck into a Le Gruyère fondue are kept. Round the corner is the the 19th century. Fill up on a hearty lunch
Schweizeriches Nationalmuseum, which
at family-friendly Hofgarten, round the
Morning Travel out to the medieval for lunch, and round things off with fresh has interesting multimedia displays on corner. Then catch a train to Stans (p225),
village of Lutry where the local market meringues and cream, a local speciality. life in Schwyz from 1300 to 1600. Take the where you can board the funicular to
offers everything you need for a picnic Explore the surreal world of H R Giger Rolenflue-Mythenregion cable car up (and Kälti, and transfer onto the double-decker
in the terraced vineyards of Lavaux (p139). at the museum dedicated to his works. up) for pleasant mountain strolls. Return open-top cable car up to the Stanserhorn
If you’re feeling energetic, you can hike Evening Journey back to Geneva, and to town for a dinner of Älplermagronen summit. On your way back to Lucerne stop
the 11-km (7-mile) trail through the vines enjoy a light dinner at buzzy open-plan (macaroni and cheese) made with Sbrinz, at Cubasia (041 619 71 71) in Stans for a
to the pretty town of St-Saphorin. restaurant L’Adresse (www.ladress.ch). the quintes sential cheese of the region. spicy mix of Chinese and Cuban cuisine.
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DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries 1 4
2 3
8 DAYS
in Central Switzerland 5
Day 1 Day 3
Hop on a train at Basel (p176) and speed Catch the train to Lucerne (p202), and
past country side to Schwyz (p226), the get carried away in the Swiss Transport
birthplace of modern Switzerland, Museum (p208). Take a picnic aboard a
stopping in Zug for lunch. Once in Schwyz, boat from the adjacent pier across to
check into Wysses Rössli (wysses-roessli- Alpnachstad for the world’s steepest rack
schwyz.ch), a traditionally furnished railway to wander Mount Pilatus (p212).
17th-century hotel overlooking the main Then descend from Alpnachstad by the
square. Then find a café for a forti fying cable car to Fräkmüntegg, where there is
Kirsch (cherry schnapps); the area is a hair-raising toboggan run, and arrive in
famous for it. Later, enjoy seasonal, Lucerne’s city centre in time for dinner.
modern dishes at family-run restaurant
Schwyzer-Stübli (www.schwyzer-stubli.ch).
Day 4
Start the day with a rendezvous with
Day 2 Modernist Masters at Lucerne’s Rosengart
Spend a couple of hours at the Museum Collection. Cross the Seebrücke to the
of the Swiss Charters, where the earliest Bourbaki Panorama to see the world’s
documents of the Swiss Confederation largest round mural, a visual history of
are kept. Round the corner is the the 19th century. Fill up on a hearty lunch
Schweizeriches Nationalmuseum, which at family-friendly Hofgarten, round the
has interesting multimedia displays on corner. Then catch a train to Stans (p225),
life in Schwyz from 1300 to 1600. Take the where you can board the funicular to
Rolenflue-Mythenregion cable car up (and Kälti, and transfer onto the double-decker
up) for pleasant mountain strolls. Return open-top cable car up to the Stanserhorn
to town for a dinner of Älplermagronen summit. On your way back to Lucerne stop
(macaroni and cheese) made with Sbrinz, at Cubasia (041 619 71 71) in Stans for a
the quintes sential cheese of the region. spicy mix of Chinese and Cuban cuisine.
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DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries 1 3
6 2
1 Pretty houses lining Basel streets.
2 Schwyz’s church piercing the sky. A WEEK
3 A bridge crossing the Reuss.
4 Amazing vistas at Pilatus.
5 Views from the Gotthard train. in Valais
6 A funicular climbing Monte Brè. 4
Day 5 up to Monte Brè for long views of Lake Day 1
Take a steam-powered paddle boat to Lugano (p216) and the snow-capped From Geneva, take the train to the Rhône east along the Rhône Valley to Leuk. From
here the postbus will take you up the
Vitznau for a trip up to Mont Rigi (p224) mountains in the distance. Find a res- Valley beside Lake Geneva, which affords twisty mountain road to one of the spas
on Europe’s first rack railway. Pause for taurant with a terrace for lunch, whatever fabu lous views of the French Alps and the of Leukerbad (p106), such as Les Sources
time of year – cosy lap blankets are avail-
lunch at Rigi Kulm-Hotel (www.rigikulm.ch), able when temperatures plum met. Return Lavaux vineyard terraces. The train skirts des Alpes (www.sourcesdesalpes.ch).
Switzerland’s first mountain inn, and the castle at Chillon (p140), the back drop
enjoy one of many walks in the area. to the city centre and hail a cab to the of Lord Byron’s poem, The Prisoner of
Descend the mountain via Arth-Goldau small town of Montanola for a dinner Chillon. Dis embark at Martigny (p102) Day 3
for the train back to Lucerne. of dry-rubbed pork and a bowl of wine
at Grotto del Cavicc (p231) – a favourite to visit the impressive Fondation Pierre Spend a lazy morning recuperating in a
haunt of Swiss author Hermann Hesse. Gianadda, which hosts changing world- thermal spa, followed by a wander round
Day 6 class art exhibitions. Come evening, watch the historic village. Fuel up on some fine
char cuterie in the brasserie, before test-
the sun set over the ruins of the Roman
Take the Gotthard Panorama Express to Day 8 amphithe atre, then dine on traditional ing your fitness on the former trading
Flüelen and then a train to Bellinzona wood-fired raclettes. route to the Gemmipass, which zigzags
(p222) to visit Castelgrande, Sasso Fuel up on Italian pastries and neat shots up the mountain, offering ever-wider
Corbaro and Montebello. When hunger of espresso, at Café a Porter (www.cafe-a- views. At the top is the historic Berghotel
porter.ch), then enjoy a morning visiting
strikes at Montebello, sample some the Piazza Castello museum in the former Day 2 Schwarzenbach (www.schwarenbach.ch),
salame – a local specialty. Explore the After breakfast, take the branch railway which inspired Guy Maupassant’s short
pleasant historic town before taking the medieval palace of the Visconti family. from Martigny to Le Châble for the cable story L’Auberge. Head back to your hotel
short trip to Locarno to watch the sunset Take one of Switzerland’s most scenic car to the famous ski resort of Verbier and go for a quick plunge in the pool
railway journeys, the Centovalli. The
over Lake Maggiore. Stay at the gorgeous (p102). For even more dramatic views, back at the spa before dinner.
Belvedere (www.belvedere-locarno.com). narrow-gauge line to Domodóssola brave Europe’s largest cable car to Mont
crosses numerous valleys over hair-
raising bridges and viaducts, weaving Fort. In the winter test your mettle on Day 4
Day 7 through woods with views over the bunny slopes and monster moguls,
Take the south train to Lugano (p218) for river hundreds of feet below. Change at breaking for steaming mugs of hot choco- Continue east to Visp and take the handy
late. When it’s warmer the region is famed
narrow-gauge railway up to the car-free
a meander through its pretty cobbled Domodóssola, to return to Zürich or Basel. for equally good hik ing trails and bike resort of Zermatt (p86) and its iconic
streets. At Cassarete, catch the funicular paths. Return to Martigny and continue mountain, the Matterhorn. The facinating
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DISCOVER Switzerland Itineraries 1 3
2
A WEEK
in Valais 4
Day 1 east along the Rhône Valley to Leuk. From
From Geneva, take the train to the Rhône here the postbus will take you up the
Valley beside Lake Geneva, which affords twisty mountain road to one of the spas
fabu lous views of the French Alps and the of Leukerbad (p106), such as Les Sources
Lavaux vineyard terraces. The train skirts des Alpes (www.sourcesdesalpes.ch).
the castle at Chillon (p140), the back drop
of Lord Byron’s poem, The Prisoner of Day 3
Chillon. Dis embark at Martigny (p102)
to visit the impressive Fondation Pierre Spend a lazy morning recuperating in a
Gianadda, which hosts changing world- thermal spa, followed by a wander round
class art exhibitions. Come evening, watch the historic village. Fuel up on some fine
the sun set over the ruins of the Roman char cuterie in the brasserie, before test-
amphithe atre, then dine on traditional ing your fitness on the former trading
wood-fired raclettes. route to the Gemmipass, which zigzags
up the mountain, offering ever-wider
Day 2 views. At the top is the historic Berghotel
Schwarzenbach (www.schwarenbach.ch),
After breakfast, take the branch railway which inspired Guy Maupassant’s short
from Martigny to Le Châble for the cable story L’Auberge. Head back to your hotel
car to the famous ski resort of Verbier and go for a quick plunge in the pool
(p102). For even more dramatic views, back at the spa before dinner.
brave Europe’s largest cable car to Mont
Fort. In the winter test your mettle on Day 4
bunny slopes and monster moguls,
breaking for steaming mugs of hot choco- Continue east to Visp and take the handy
late. When it’s warmer the region is famed narrow-gauge railway up to the car-free
for equally good hik ing trails and bike resort of Zermatt (p86) and its iconic
paths. Return to Martigny and continue mountain, the Matterhorn. The facinating
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Monumental Peaks
A fundamental part of Swiss
life, the Alps are a playground
for hikers, bikers and rock
climbers – and the ingenuity
of Swiss engineering has
made many peaks accessible
to the less active visitor, too.
Perhaps the most majestic of
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way village of Zermatt (p86). Still a
all is the iconic Matterhorn
(p86); this pyramid-shaped
behemouth looms over the
challenge for even the most
seasoned mountaineers, it’s
best admired from afar – take
the train to the rocky ridge of
Gornergrat for a stunning
5 view of the majestic summit.
Two hikers walking over
an icy path, with the
1 Visitors admiring art at Fondation Matterhorn in the distance
Pierre Gianadda.
2 A panorama pointing out landmarks
at the resort town of Verbier. SWITZERLAND FOR
3 The iconic Matterhorn reflected
in a clear mountain lake.
4 Walkers viewing the Aletsch Glacier. NATURAL
5 Wooden chalets lining Zermatt.
WONDERS
Day 6
Matterhorn Museum tells the story of the
drama surrounding the first ascent in After breakfast, take the cable car to
1865 and describes how the mountain’s Moosfluh for the start of the spectacular Switzerland brims with sublime natural beauty that has inspired painters,
distinctive silhouette has come to be so Aletsch Panoramaweg, a 12km (7mile) writers and photographers for centuries. But little can truly do justice to
well known. One of the best walks from walk beside the 23km (14mile) Aletsch the immensity of its mountains, the sparkle of its alpine lakes and the
the town of Zermatt is the Matterhorn Glacier, the centrepiece of the Aletsch
Trail to Schwarzee and its tiny chapel, Arena World Heritage Site. Stop for a sheer might of its glaciers. Prepare to bow down to Mother Nature.
passing through the hamlet of Zmutt reviving afternoon tea at Villa Cassel
where res taurants serve Valasian speci in Riederfurka, just above Riederalp;
alities. Have a drink (or stay) at the Monte Sir Winston Churchill was a regular guest Geological Marvels
Rosa hotel (p99) where famed mountain at Sir Ernest Cassel’s holiday home here. Geological features carved
eer Edward Whymper stayed before his Back in Riederalp, tuck into tasty locally out over millennia add their
fate ful ascent of the Matterhorn. sourced chinoise (hot pot) and raclettes own unique beauty to this
at Derby restaurant and bar (www.derby- fascinating landscape, from
Day 5 riederalp.ch), then rock out to live music, Europe’s largest waterfall to
deep gorges. In western
performed here through out the ski
Rise early to take the Gornergratbahn season. Stay overnight in one of the Swiss Switzerland, the one to see is
train to watch dawn break over one of the Alpine Club (www.sac-cas.ch) huts that can the Creux du Van (p152). A
finest viewpoints of the Matterhorn, and be found dotted around the area. range of hiking trails, from a
grab a quick breakfast at the Kulmhotel saunter to challenging treks,
Gornergrat (www.gornergrat-kulm.ch). Take Day 7 lead to breathtaking views
to the 360 Trail for great views of the Monte across the amphitheatre of
Rosa massif (p108) and a panorama of Make your way to Morel for the train back this grand canyon.
29 peaks, or, if you’re feeling energetic, to Geneva. Alternatively spend a leisurely
try the longer Five Lakes Walk. Later, day taking the scenic route to Zürich via
catch the train from Zermatt to Morel for Andermatt and the train through the Sunlight curving along
the cable car up to Riederalp, gateway to scenic Schöllenen Gorge to Göschenen the towering walls of
the Aletsch Glacier (p88). on the old Gotthard main line. the Creux de Van
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Monumental Peaks
A fundamental part of Swiss
life, the Alps are a playground
for hikers, bikers and rock
climbers – and the ingenuity
of Swiss engineering has
made many peaks accessible
to the less active visitor, too.
Perhaps the most majestic of
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way village of Zermatt (p86). Still a
all is the iconic Matterhorn
(p86); this pyramid-shaped
behemouth looms over the
challenge for even the most
seasoned mountaineers, it’s
best admired from afar – take
the train to the rocky ridge of
Gornergrat for a stunning
view of the majestic summit.
Two hikers walking over
an icy path, with the
Matterhorn in the distance
SWITZERLAND FOR
NATURAL
WONDERS
Switzerland brims with sublime natural beauty that has inspired painters,
writers and photographers for centuries. But little can truly do justice to
the immensity of its mountains, the sparkle of its alpine lakes and the
sheer might of its glaciers. Prepare to bow down to Mother Nature.
Geological Marvels
Geological features carved
out over millennia add their
own unique beauty to this
fascinating landscape, from
Europe’s largest waterfall to
deep gorges. In western
Switzerland, the one to see is
the Creux du Van (p152). A
range of hiking trails, from a
saunter to challenging treks,
lead to breathtaking views
across the amphitheatre of
this grand canyon.
Sunlight curving along
the towering walls of
the Creux de Van
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Blowing the Alphorn
TOP MAJESTIC A Swiss version of the didgeridoo, the
5 MOUNTAINS alphorn was traditionally used by
farmers to call their cows in for milking.
Pilatus In the 19th century alphorns became
Paraglide on thermals popular as musical instruments and there
around the mountain. are now alphorn groups all over
the country. Each year the Nendaz
Rigi Alphorn Festival gathers many of these
Ride Europe’s first moun- musicians together for a competitive
tain railway to the top. three-day event where visitors can
Rochers-de-Naye hear them play and join an alphorn-
making workshop. The organizers
Spot marmots and alpine also hold alphorn initiation courses.
flowers on hiking paths. DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
Monte Generoso Musicians in
Catch the rack railway to traditional dress at
Ticino’s most scenic spot. the Alphorn Festival
Mont Fort
At the summit watch the
sunrise over the valley. SWITZERLAND FOR
TRADITIONS
Aletsch Glacier
Though many are shrinking at an alarming
rate, Switzerland’s enthralling glaciers A forward-looking country in many ways, Switzerland is nonetheless rooted
remain an unforgettable experience. Among in tradition. While not everyone can yodel, there’s a sense of pride around
the most impressive is the 23-km (14-mile) these customs and people flock to festivals that celebrate them. For
Aletsch Glacier (p88). It is particularly
stunning when the glistening ice-river visitors, they offer a fascinating glimpse into Switzerland’s rural heart.
contrasts with the autumn forests around it.
Wrestle With It
A visitor getting up close to the A sport dating back centuries,
thick wall of ice on the underside Schwingen (Swiss wrestling)
of the immense Aletsch Glacier pits two opponents against
each other in a circle filled
with saw dust. It has been a
Enchanting key feature of many rural
Mountain Lakes festivals but the biggest
Landlocked Switzerland may event is Schwingfest, held
be, but you’re never far from every three years in front
water. Head into the moun- of thousands of people.
tains to seek out the popular
Oeschinensee (p90), a swatch
of turquoise surrounded by Two Schwingen competitors
dramatic cliffs, or south to the in the village of Boltigen
sunny Mediterranean-esque
Lake Lugano (p216), a star t ing
point for wonderful hikes.
Cows grazing in front
of the placid expanse
of Oeschinensee
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Blowing the Alphorn
A Swiss version of the didgeridoo, the
alphorn was traditionally used by
farmers to call their cows in for milking.
In the 19th century alphorns became
popular as musical instruments and there
are now alphorn groups all over
the country. Each year the Nendaz
Alphorn Festival gathers many of these
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way also hold alphorn initiation courses.
musicians together for a competitive
three-day event where visitors can
hear them play and join an alphorn-
making workshop. The organizers
Musicians in
traditional dress at
the Alphorn Festival
SWITZERLAND FOR
TRADITIONS
A forward-looking country in many ways, Switzerland is nonetheless rooted
in tradition. While not everyone can yodel, there’s a sense of pride around
these customs and people flock to festivals that celebrate them. For
visitors, they offer a fascinating glimpse into Switzerland’s rural heart.
Wrestle With It
A sport dating back centuries,
Schwingen (Swiss wrestling)
pits two opponents against
each other in a circle filled
with saw dust. It has been a
key feature of many rural
festivals but the biggest
event is Schwingfest, held
every three years in front
of thousands of people.
Two Schwingen competitors
in the village of Boltigen
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Yodel-Ay-Ee-Oooo
Originally a way for farmers TOP TRADITIONAL
4
in remote regions to call COSTUME
to each other, yodelling
developed into song in the Schwingerhosen
19th century and is still Worn over trousers,
going strong in Switzerland these sackcloth shorts
today; it also frequently form a handle which a
features in contemporary competitor may grab
folk music. The Älpli bar in during a wrestling bout.
Zürich is a good spot to watch
live yodelling year-round, Edelweiss Shirt
while each summer the This pale blue shirt is
national yodelling festival, embroidered with a
Jodlerfest, attracts pattern of Switzerland’s DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
thousands of spec- national flower.
tators. You can
take yod elling Bredzon
lessons, and Typical of the Fribourg
region, this dark-blue
even take a short jacket with puffed
degree at the sleeves is still worn by
University working dairy farmers.
ofLucerne.
Bredzo
This ornate overdress is
A yodelling worn by the women of
group singing the small Appenzell
at a festival in Innerrhoden canton.
traditional regalia
Children in an
aquarium tunnel
at Aquatis
SWITZERLAND FOR
FAMILIES
With rope parks, toboggan runs, water parks and forests to high-tail it
through, Switzerland has it sorted. In winter, the snow-dusted peaks
become Narnia for children, while the summer thaw brings dozens of
water-based attractions to life.
Into the Wild
Switzerland’s great outdoors is
a wonderland for children of all
Farmers driving their ages. In the winter, hit the bunny
herds through the streets slopes in family-friendly resorts
of Charmey, Fribourg towns, such as Wengen (p98) and
Kanddersteg (p99). When the
Till the Cows Come Home 270,000 weather warms, heed the call of
Once the summer ends and the cheese is made, alpine farmers cool mountain lakes and myriad
bring their cows back down to the valley for the winter. To The estimated number hiking and cycling trails through
celebrate, many villages stage a festival – Désalpage – with of cows grazing the Switzerland’s natural wonders.
traditional music, food and drink stands, and cheese-making hills and meadows
demonstrations. The cows sport large ceremonial bells and of Switzerland.
floral headdresses, while the farmers wear the traditional Walkers on the 5-Seenweg (Five
dress of their region. Lakes Walk), near Zermatt
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DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
Children in an
aquarium tunnel
at Aquatis
SWITZERLAND FOR
FAMILIES
With rope parks, toboggan runs, water parks and forests to high-tail it
through, Switzerland has it sorted. In winter, the snow-dusted peaks
become Narnia for children, while the summer thaw brings dozens of
water-based attractions to life.
Into the Wild
Switzerland’s great outdoors is
a wonderland for children of all
ages. In the winter, hit the bunny
slopes in family-friendly resorts
towns, such as Wengen (p98) and
Kanddersteg (p99). When the
weather warms, heed the call of
cool mountain lakes and myriad
hiking and cycling trails through
Switzerland’s natural wonders.
Walkers on the 5-Seenweg (Five
Lakes Walk), near Zermatt
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Rainy Days Indoors Death by Chocolate
Child-friendly museums are the perfect place to The Swiss won’t let you forget that milk
be when it’s too rainy (or snowy) to be outside. chocolate was invented in Switzerland in
Opened in 2017, Aquatis in Lausanne is the the 1880s, and it’s possible to visit dozens of
largest freshwater aquarium in Europe, offering factories and artisan chocolatiers across the
a journey through aquatic ecosystems, as well country to find out how they did it. Unearth
as the home of 10,000 fish, reptiles and amphib- the sweet history at Maison Cailler’s historic
ians. Over in Baden, “children’s culture” is Broc chocolate factory near Gruyères (www.
revealed at the Swiss Children’s Museum (p191), cailler.ch), or visit the Chocolarium of Maestrani
in Flawil (www.chocolarium.ch); it’s the only
where the whole family can play together. chocolate factory in Switzerland that lets you
INSIDER TIP onto the production floor.
Young visitors Babies at
High Altitude
getting up close Chocolate workshop
to the fishes It’s easier than you DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way at Maison Cailler’s
at Aquatis might think to travel famous factory
with youngsters in
Switzerland. Kids under
six travel free on trains,
and there is often space
for prams. Resort town
tourist offices have Did You Know?
information on buggy-
friendly walking trails, Chocolate is a primary
if baby-wearing is out of source of wealth for the
the question. Nappy- Swiss; famous brands
changing facilities are include Nestlé, Lindt
common, and some and Toblerone.
restaurants provide
high chairs.
SWITZERLAND FOR
FOODIES
Flanked by the powerhouses of France and Italy, Switzerland’s culinary
scene can get overlooked. Yet, its talented chefs and food fairs are quickly
turning its cities into foodie destinations. Across the Alps you’ll find age-old
traditions and belly-hugging experiences that’ll stay with you forever.
Regional Varieties
For Little Explorers At the vanguard of the Swiss food revival is
With such large-scale landscapes on offer, traditional go-to comfort food, and each region
Switzerland can appear daunting for little ones. has its own classic dishes. In Graubünden, that’s
They’ll have no problem at Swissminiatur, an a tasty version of Älplermagronen (macaroni
open-air park on the shores of Lake Lugano cheese elevated with speck), while in Zürich
(p216) with pocket-sized models of monuments you’ll find Zürcher
and national icons, plus kid-sized trains choo- geschnet zeltes
chooing between the knee-high sights. In the Hearty Zürcher, a dish mit rösti served
canton of Graubünden, children can step back Families enjoying the with veal, onions, in five-star
in time and re-create the adventures of Heidi, Swissminiatur park mushroom and a hash restaurants and
Switzerland’s littlest explorer, at Heididorf. in Lake Lugano brown in a creamy sauce cosy taverns alike.
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Death by Chocolate
The Swiss won’t let you forget that milk
chocolate was invented in Switzerland in
the 1880s, and it’s possible to visit dozens of
factories and artisan chocolatiers across the
country to find out how they did it. Unearth
the sweet history at Maison Cailler’s historic
Broc chocolate factory near Gruyères (www.
cailler.ch), or visit the Chocolarium of Maestrani
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way Chocolate workshop
in Flawil (www.chocolarium.ch); it’s the only
chocolate factory in Switzerland that lets you
onto the production floor.
at Maison Cailler’s
famous factory
Did You Know?
Chocolate is a primary
source of wealth for the
Swiss; famous brands
include Nestlé, Lindt
and Toblerone.
SWITZERLAND FOR
FOODIES
Flanked by the powerhouses of France and Italy, Switzerland’s culinary
scene can get overlooked. Yet, its talented chefs and food fairs are quickly
turning its cities into foodie destinations. Across the Alps you’ll find age-old
traditions and belly-hugging experiences that’ll stay with you forever.
Regional Varieties
At the vanguard of the Swiss food revival is
traditional go-to comfort food, and each region
has its own classic dishes. In Graubünden, that’s
a tasty version of Älplermagronen (macaroni
cheese elevated with speck), while in Zürich
you’ll find Zürcher
geschnet zeltes
Hearty Zürcher, a dish mit rösti served
with veal, onions, in five-star
mushroom and a hash restaurants and
brown in a creamy sauce cosy taverns alike.
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All Eyes on Basel
Basel is first and foremost a city of
art and culture. There are more
museums here than anywhere in
Switzerland; it’s the home of Art Basel
Common ingredients (Europe’s premier art show) and the
in Birchermuesli, term Art Brut (Raw Art) was coined
the classic Swiss here. Start at the Kunstmuseum
breakfast dish (p185), the world’s oldest public fine art
gallery, then pay homage to local hero
and kinetic sculptor Jean Tinguely at
TOP FOOD Museum Tinguely (p181) on the banks
of the Rhine. For 21st-century art,
4 FESTIVALS finish up at the Kunsthalle (p179).
St Moritz Gourmet DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
Festival, January Visitors admiring works
A Hosanna to Nine days of culinary by Fernand Leger in
Healthy Living highs in the mountains. the Kunstmuseum
Created by the famous Swiss
physician Dr Bircher-Benner, Food Zürich, May
Birchermuesli has rapidly Ten days with more SWITZERLAND FOR
changed the way the world than 150 dining
eats breakfast. The simple events, from sizzling
meal is made from grated street food to five- ART LOVERS
apple, cinnamon, rolled oats, star banquets.
seeds, nuts and dollops of
yogurt – with the intention of Risotto Gran Prix,
combatting the ill effects of Locarno, September Switzerland’s artistic heritage is second-to-none, with a succession of
tuberculosis through better Chefs go head-to-head world-class galleries, museums and renowned art fairs. National treasures
diet – and can be found at in an open-air cook-off include Alberto Giacometti, Ferdinand Hodler, Jean Tinguely and Paul Klee,
every hotel buffet. Strangely, on the spectacular
it was actually never intended Piazza Grande. but there are countless collections of Masters from around the world too.
for breakfast, but as a starter
to every meal. Zibelemärit, Bern,
November
This centuries-old
A World of Cheese festival celebrates
From Appenzeller to Sbinz, the humble onion.
the Swiss love cheese and
there is plenty of it to enjoy.
Build an appetite on the
Emmen Valley Cheese
Trail, starting in Burgdorf,
then tuck into some of the
country’s world-famous
dishes, such as fondue
(bubbling melted cheese Hats Off to Paul Klee
for bread dipping) and Call it Expressionism, Cubism or Surrealism,
raclette (grilled cheese for but one thing’s clear: Paul Klee is one of
coating potatoes) – the Switzerland’s greatest artists. He called
subjects of lifelong Bern home and it is there that you’ll find
obsessions for cheese- the Zentrum Paul Klee (p77), a wave-shaped
lovers everywhere. Cheesy museum designed by architect Renzo
festivals and artisanal Piano, dedicated to his life’s work. The vast
markets can be relished collection show cases the versatility of his
across the country all year. art, balancing masterpieces alongside
lesser-known pieces of art.
Dipping potatoes and Combining history and
bread into a bubbling high spirits in Uebermut
cheese fondue (1939) by Paul Klee
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All Eyes on Basel
Basel is first and foremost a city of
art and culture. There are more
museums here than anywhere in
Switzerland; it’s the home of Art Basel
(Europe’s premier art show) and the
term Art Brut (Raw Art) was coined
here. Start at the Kunstmuseum
(p185), the world’s oldest public fine art
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way of the Rhine. For 21st-century art,
gallery, then pay homage to local hero
and kinetic sculptor Jean Tinguely at
Museum Tinguely (p181) on the banks
finish up at the Kunsthalle (p179).
Visitors admiring works
by Fernand Leger in
the Kunstmuseum
SWITZERLAND FOR
ART LOVERS
Switzerland’s artistic heritage is second-to-none, with a succession of
world-class galleries, museums and renowned art fairs. National treasures
include Alberto Giacometti, Ferdinand Hodler, Jean Tinguely and Paul Klee,
but there are countless collections of Masters from around the world too.
Hats Off to Paul Klee
Call it Expressionism, Cubism or Surrealism,
but one thing’s clear: Paul Klee is one of
Switzerland’s greatest artists. He called
Bern home and it is there that you’ll find
the Zentrum Paul Klee (p77), a wave-shaped
museum designed by architect Renzo
Piano, dedicated to his life’s work. The vast
collection show cases the versatility of his
art, balancing masterpieces alongside
lesser-known pieces of art.
Combining history and
high spirits in Uebermut
(1939) by Paul Klee
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Bridging the Gap
TOP BEST ART
4 MUSEUMS Built in 2017 to connect two
sections of the Europaweg,
a summer hiking trail with Did You Know?
Kunstmuseum Bern stunning views, the Charles It takes the average
Opened in 1879, this is Kuonen Suspension Bridge is hiker 10 minutes to cross
one of Switzerland’s the longest in the world. The the Charles Kuonen
oldest art museums. daring walk across its 500-m Suspension Bridge.
(1,640-ft) length, swaying
Kunsthaus Zürich 85 m (280 ft) above the valley
A modern art home floor, is a real buzz. Once
to international stars you’ve got a taste for it, try
and homegrown heroes Glacier 3000’s Peak Walk,
such as Giacometti which stretches between
and Hodler. DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way two mountain summits, or
Lowenbrau cross above the tongue of a
glacier on the Trift bridge.
Complex, Zürich
Once a brewery,
now an unmissable Charles Kuonen Suspension
cultural centre. Bridge, with sweeping
views of the peaks
Musee d’Art et
A visitor perusing d’Histoire, Geneva
Stone Line (1977) An impressive gallery in SWITZERLAND FOR
by Richard Long, at the west of the country.
Basel’s Kunstmuseum ENGINEERING
Birthplace of Dadaism
Zürich’s most famous art Switzerland’s dramatic mountainscape has long been conquered by
moment came during World
War I when a counter-culture mountaineers – and by engineers. Whether you’re an engineer or not,
movement emerged focusing you can’t fail to be impressed by these incredible pioneering feats,
on anti-war politics and anti- old and new.
bourgeois ethic. It was called
Dadaism and its ground zero
today is Cabaret Voltaire Dam High
(p169), one of Switzerland’s Switzerland’s abundance
most vibrant avant garde of water means hydro-
art spaces and jazz bars. electricity is its primary
power source, evidenced
by numerous dams dotted
Performance art at throughout the mountains.
Zürich’s artistic nightclub, King of them all is the
the Cabaret Voltaire 285-m- (930-ft-) high
Grande Dixence (p105 ), the
tallest gravity dam in the
INSIDER TIP world. Take a guided tour
Comic Collection inside the dam and walk
Basel’s Cartoon Museum across its scenic top.
(www.cartoonmuseum.
ch) celebrates narrative
drawing, with one of The Grande Dixence
Europe’s most kaleido- set deep within
scopic collec tions of the mountains
caricature, comics and
graphic novels. In 2005,
the quirky museum was
extended and restyled
by Swiss archi tects
Herzog & de Meuron.
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Bridging the Gap
Built in 2017 to connect two
sections of the Europaweg, Did You Know?
a summer hiking trail with
stunning views, the Charles It takes the average
Kuonen Suspension Bridge is hiker 10 minutes to cross
the longest in the world. The the Charles Kuonen
daring walk across its 500-m Suspension Bridge.
(1,640-ft) length, swaying
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way cross above the tongue of a
85 m (280 ft) above the valley
floor, is a real buzz. Once
you’ve got a taste for it, try
Glacier 3000’s Peak Walk,
which stretches between
two mountain summits, or
glacier on the Trift bridge.
Charles Kuonen Suspension
Bridge, with sweeping
views of the peaks
SWITZERLAND FOR
ENGINEERING
Switzerland’s dramatic mountainscape has long been conquered by
mountaineers – and by engineers. Whether you’re an engineer or not,
you can’t fail to be impressed by these incredible pioneering feats,
old and new.
Dam High
Switzerland’s abundance
of water means hydro-
electricity is its primary
power source, evidenced
by numerous dams dotted
throughout the mountains.
King of them all is the
285-m- (930-ft-) high
Grande Dixence (p105 ), the
tallest gravity dam in the
world. Take a guided tour
inside the dam and walk
across its scenic top.
The Grande Dixence
set deep within
the mountains
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On the Slopes
Switzerland’s peaks have always presented a
welcome challenge to engineers. Europe’s first Did You Know?
ever cogwheel mountain railway opened on
Rigi mountain in 1871, while the Pilatusbahn, White Turf,
built in 1889, is still the steepest cogwheel in the horse racing event
the world. Switzerland hasn’t stopped leading on Lake St Moritz,
the way ever since. The new Matterhorn has been held
Glacier Ride cableway was named the world’s since 1907.
highest when it opened in October 2018, and
the Stoosbahn in Schwyz (p226) became the
world’s steepest classic funicular
when it opened in 2017. As it
climbs, the cylindrical
carriages rotate, DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
keep ing its riders
upright as it
reveals the
spectacular
views below.
The Stoosbahn
funicular railway
on the way up to
the village of Stoos
Skaters spilling out on
frozen Lake St Moritz,
TOP ALPINE a natural, public ice rink
3 ARCHITECTS
Herzog & de Meuron SWITZERLAND
The work of this
renowned Swiss duo
can be seen all over ON THE WATER
their home city of
Basel, but they also
designed the summit
restaurant and cable car In a country of around 7,000 lakes, a shortcut to blending in with the locals
station at Chäserrugg. begins with heading to the water. Although landlocked, Switzerland offers
riverside beaches, glistening lakes, frozen lagoons and mile-high waterfalls.
Mario Botta
The Ticino-born Whether you hop on a boat or strap on your skates, the water’s fine.
architect has tackled
Switzerland’s challeng- Top of the Lake
ing landscape several Paddle steamers cruise crescent-
times, including shaped Lake Geneva (p138) and
designing the three- Lake Lucerne daily, in season,
storey building at the while on Lake Maggiore (p234)
top of Glacier 3000.
speedboats ping-pong between
Locarno and lakefront stunner
On the Rails The Rhaetian Bearth & Deplazes Ascona. For wild swimming at its
In Switzerland, obstacles only make Railway route (1915–1959) best, follow the scenic 90-minute
your train journey more interesting. passing the In an extraordinarily hiking trail into the Santis massif
The UNESCO World Heritage Rhaetian Bernina range isolated location, the to the unforget table Seealpsee.
Railway takes passengers through Monte Rosa hut was
55 tunnels and over nearly 200 viaducts and bridges, while desig ned by this firm
the Jungfraubahn burrows through the infamous north face from Chur as a contem-
of the Eiger (p97). No less impressive is the 57-km- (34-mile-) porary version of a A boat cruising along the
long Gotthard tunnel (p233) under the Saint Gotthard massif, medieval donjon. picturesque Lake Lucerne
which is the world’s longest and deepest rail tunnel. in Central Switzerland
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Did You Know?
White Turf,
the horse racing event
on Lake St Moritz,
has been held
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
since 1907.
Skaters spilling out on
frozen Lake St Moritz,
a natural, public ice rink
SWITZERLAND
ON THE WATER
In a country of around 7,000 lakes, a shortcut to blending in with the locals
begins with heading to the water. Although landlocked, Switzerland offers
riverside beaches, glistening lakes, frozen lagoons and mile-high waterfalls.
Whether you hop on a boat or strap on your skates, the water’s fine.
Top of the Lake
Paddle steamers cruise crescent-
shaped Lake Geneva (p138) and
Lake Lucerne daily, in season,
while on Lake Maggiore (p234)
speedboats ping-pong between
Locarno and lakefront stunner
Ascona. For wild swimming at its
best, follow the scenic 90-minute
hiking trail into the Santis massif
to the unforget table Seealpsee.
A boat cruising along the
picturesque Lake Lucerne
in Central Switzerland
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Skater Secrets Up, Up and Away
Nearly everyone can skate in Switzerland, The glacially carved Swiss
and the most beautiful place to get on the ice peaks are not only a play Did You Know?
come winter is the lake at St Moritz (p264). It’s ground for rock climbers,
easy enough to hire a pair of skates for a quick mountain bikers, skiers and Paragliders use rising
slide, or to plan a trip to watch White Turf, the snowboarders. Verbier air created by solar
jaw-dropping horse race, and polo or cricket contains some of the most radiation to get into
matches that take place on the frozen wellreputed paragliding the air, in a technque
surface. There’s always a fantastic atmo- schools in Europe, while called thermalling.
sphere at Lac de Joux (p150) in the heart of Appenzell’s Ebenalp cable car
Vaud, too. Here, in deep midwinter, the affords access to consistent
canton’s largest lake is reborn as a com- thermals for experienced
flyers. For those who don’t
petitive ice-skating rink. want to soar too high, airborne
INSIDER TIP freedom can also be found on
Waterways DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way Grindelwald’s First Flyer, a
Starting in the sun- zipline with a onetwo punch
of Jungfraujoch’s and
drenched village of Eiger’s summit views.
Nendaz, plot a course
from pastures and
meadows to vineyards
and fruit orchards on A paraglider taking off
in the breathtaking
hiking trips along the
restored Bisses, a series Bernese Highlands
of historic irrigation
channels in Valais.
SWITZERLAND FOR
Horseracing in White THRILL-SEEKERS
Turf at Lake St Moritz
With an enviable backdrop of sawtooth peaks, sheer canyon drops and
hairline ridges, it’s no surprise the Swiss have a love affair with white-
ON THE WATER knuckle adventures. Weekends see the cities empty out as locals
embrace the elements, and there’s ample opportunity to join them, too.
Record-breaker
With two runners, three
The Largest Waterfall wooden slats and a rope
Schaffhausen, a town near the German handle, the Davos sledge is
the world’s favourite tobog
border, provides a thrilling marriage of
man-made and natural creation: the gan. The first toboggan race in
1883 in Davos saw daredevil
medi eval, fortress-dominated old town riders career through the
and the nearby Rhine Falls, the largest city’s snowcovered streets
cascade in Europe. Plummeting 23 m
(75 ft), at a width of 150 m (490 ft), it is all the way into neighbouring
Klosters. You can try it too, on
an incomparable force of nature by the world’s longest purpose
European standards, and beguiling
enough to inspire Romantic painter J M W built sledge run, which sends
Turner. Another inspiring cascade can be riders spiraling down from
the Faulhorn summit at
found in the Staubbach Falls, just above 2,681 m (8,796 ft) back
Lauterbrunnen (p97), where spectacular into Grindelwald village
views await behind the water.
above Interlaken.
The Rhine Falls rushing Tobogganing down the powder
down the cliff face to white slopes in Graubünden,
the medieval town East Switzerland
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Up, Up and Away
The glacially carved Swiss
peaks are not only a play Did You Know?
ground for rock climbers,
mountain bikers, skiers and Paragliders use rising
snowboarders. Verbier air created by solar
contains some of the most radiation to get into
wellreputed paragliding the air, in a technque
schools in Europe, while called thermalling.
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way want to soar too high, airborne
Appenzell’s Ebenalp cable car
affords access to consistent
thermals for experienced
flyers. For those who don’t
freedom can also be found on
Grindelwald’s First Flyer, a
zipline with a onetwo punch
of Jungfraujoch’s and
Eiger’s summit views.
A paraglider taking off
in the breathtaking
Bernese Highlands
SWITZERLAND FOR
THRILL-SEEKERS
With an enviable backdrop of sawtooth peaks, sheer canyon drops and
hairline ridges, it’s no surprise the Swiss have a love affair with white-
knuckle adventures. Weekends see the cities empty out as locals
embrace the elements, and there’s ample opportunity to join them, too.
Record-breaker
With two runners, three
wooden slats and a rope
handle, the Davos sledge is
the world’s favourite tobog
gan. The first toboggan race in
1883 in Davos saw daredevil
riders career through the
city’s snowcovered streets
all the way into neighbouring
Klosters. You can try it too, on
the world’s longest purpose
built sledge run, which sends
riders spiraling down from
the Faulhorn summit at
2,681 m (8,796 ft) back
into Grindelwald village
above Interlaken.
Tobogganing down the powder
white slopes in Graubünden,
East Switzerland
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Museums and More
TOP MORE GREAT The Swiss National Museum
5 ADVENTURES (p162) in Zürich is the grand
dame of Switzerland’s cul tural
Olympia Bob Run, trove. Venture deeper into
St Moritz the galleries and you’ll find
The oldest bobsleigh some of the museum’s best
track in the world. kept secrets, including
sledges. The Swiss Open-Air
Via Ferrata, Aletsch Museum (p95) at Ballenberg
Climb above the largest has a hundred old buildings
glacier in the Alps. and actors to bring it to life.
Whitewater Rafting,
Lower Engadine DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way A traditional building
Thrills and spills on the on display at the Swiss
river En. Open Air Museum
Canyoning, Ticino
Raging rivers and
soul-stirring gorges in SWITZERLAND FOR
the Maggia Valley.
Mountain Biking, HISTORY BUFFS
Lenzerheide
Home to a 6-km (3-mile)
Follow 007 downhill run. With so many breathtaking natural attractions, it can be easy to overlook
Adrenaline junkies can take to the air à la James
Bond at sites all across the country. The most Switzerland’s historical past. But the chance to observe Roman ruins, stout
famous is the jump off the side of the 220-m- viscount castles and timeless UNESCO heritage sites shouldn’t be passed
(720-ft-) high Contra Dam, where Pierce Brosnan’s up. Be sure to fit these unmissable national treasures into your schedule.
007 bungee jumps in the famous opening scene of
GoldenEye (1995). Night jumps and foot-first
“ultimo” jumps can be arranged. The Most Visited Castle
TOP HISTORICAL Discover a perfect marriage of history
4 SITES and locale at Château de Chillon (p140),
The steep walls of the an island castle located south of
Contra Dam, once used for a Avenches Roman Veytaux on Lake Geneva. The
Bond stunt in GoldenEye Amphitheatre intriguing stories of the Counts of
This amphitheatre Savoy who controlled the fort, and its
hosts an opera festival role as arsenal and prison, are rivalled
and regular concerts. only by the extraordinary natural
drama that surrounds it.
Augusta Raurica,
Basel
A Roman archaeological The covered bridge leading
site on the south bank of to the popular, imposing
the Rhine (p194). Château de Chillon
Rutli Meadow,
Lucerne
The spot on the shores
of Lake Lucerne where
modern Switzerland
was founded.
Sasso San Gottardo,
Gotthard Pass
A former secret military
bunker built in WW2,
now a museum (p232).
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Museums and More
The Swiss National Museum
(p162) in Zürich is the grand
dame of Switzerland’s cul tural
trove. Venture deeper into
the galleries and you’ll find
some of the museum’s best
kept secrets, including
sledges. The Swiss Open-Air
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way and actors to bring it to life.
Museum (p95) at Ballenberg
has a hundred old buildings
A traditional building
on display at the Swiss
Open Air Museum
SWITZERLAND FOR
HISTORY BUFFS
With so many breathtaking natural attractions, it can be easy to overlook
Switzerland’s historical past. But the chance to observe Roman ruins, stout
viscount castles and timeless UNESCO heritage sites shouldn’t be passed
up. Be sure to fit these unmissable national treasures into your schedule.
The Most Visited Castle
TOP HISTORICAL Discover a perfect marriage of history
4 SITES and locale at Château de Chillon (p140),
an island castle located south of
Avenches Roman Veytaux on Lake Geneva. The
Amphitheatre intriguing stories of the Counts of
This amphitheatre Savoy who controlled the fort, and its
hosts an opera festival role as arsenal and prison, are rivalled
and regular concerts. only by the extraordinary natural
drama that surrounds it.
Augusta Raurica,
Basel
A Roman archaeological The covered bridge leading
site on the south bank of to the popular, imposing
the Rhine (p194). Château de Chillon
Rutli Meadow,
Lucerne
The spot on the shores
of Lake Lucerne where
modern Switzerland
was founded.
Sasso San Gottardo,
Gotthard Pass
A former secret military
bunker built in WW2,
now a museum (p232).
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UNESCO World
Heritage Sites
In a country rich in UNESCO
sights, it’s hard to pick a
favourite. Belinzona’s
magnificent castles (p223)
and Bern’s Zytglogge clock
tower (p70) are among the
best. The abbey at St Gallen
(p244) is a perfect example of
living history: its library has
one of the world’s most
stunning book collections.
Celestial beings adorn DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
the domed ceiling of
St Gallen’s abbey
A snowboarder and a skier
carving a path over the
powdery slopes of Valais
SWITZERLAND FOR
The ornate façade and
soaring twin towers of SPORTS FANS
the abbey at St Gallen
Switzerland offers a wealth of variety for sports fans, from archair
pundits to anyone ready to play. The country is renowned for its
world-class winter sports, down the slopes and on the ice, and as
the summer heats up, so too do the tennis courts and biking trails.
Anyone for Tennis?
Switzerland may have its
medal-winning skiers and
figure skaters, but tennis has
become the de facto national
sport thanks to a string of
star play ers, such as Roger
Federer and Belinda Bencic.
The good news is there are
plenty of places to practise, as
well as a number of ATP World
Tour champion ships at which
to spectate. Consider the
Geneva Open (May), Gstaad
Open (July) or, the big one on
Federer’s home patch, the
Swiss Indoors tournament
in Basel (October).
Swiss tennis player Belinda
Bencic in action at the
women’s Fed Cup in Geneva
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DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
A snowboarder and a skier
carving a path over the
powdery slopes of Valais
SWITZERLAND FOR
SPORTS FANS
Switzerland offers a wealth of variety for sports fans, from archair
pundits to anyone ready to play. The country is renowned for its
world-class winter sports, down the slopes and on the ice, and as
the summer heats up, so too do the tennis courts and biking trails.
Anyone for Tennis?
Switzerland may have its
medal-winning skiers and
figure skaters, but tennis has
become the de facto national
sport thanks to a string of
star play ers, such as Roger
Federer and Belinda Bencic.
The good news is there are
plenty of places to practise, as
well as a number of ATP World
Tour champion ships at which
to spectate. Consider the
Geneva Open (May), Gstaad
Open (July) or, the big one on
Federer’s home patch, the
Swiss Indoors tournament
in Basel (October).
Swiss tennis player Belinda
Bencic in action at the
women’s Fed Cup in Geneva
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Hit the Slopes Heidi and Graubünden
With scores of ski resorts and thousands of kilometers TOP SPECTATOR Johanna Spyri’s novel Heidi
4
of pistes and Nordic tracks to test yourself on, it’s little SPORTS tells the story of an orphan
wonder the Swiss Alps are a year-round training ground girl who is taken to live with
for the best winter sports athletes. For big mountain Ice Hockey, Davos her grandfather high up in the
alpine skiing and snowboarding choose from the mega Catch the world’s oldest Swiss Alps near Chur. The
resorts of Verbier (p102) or Davos (p261), or for glitz and ice hockey tournament. most popular work of Swiss
glamour check-out Zermatt (p86) or Gstaad (p102). St fiction has been translated
Moritz (p264) is a favourite for cross-country skiers. Sailing, Geneva into 50 languages, and cap-
Watch the Bol d’Or tured the imagi nation of
Mirabaud, the world’s children the world over. Kids
largest inland regatta. can re-create her adven tures
at Heididorf, a village above
Tour de Suisse Maienfeld (p261) .
Cycling, Various
Cheer on cyclists on DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way
this proving ground Children reenacting
for the Tour de France. characters Heidi and Clara
walking across a meadow
Schwingen, Various
Pick your favourite at
traditional Swiss folk SWITZERLAND IN
wrestling bouts.
BOOKS AND FILM
Switzerland’s jaw-dropping landscapes have inspired some of the most-
read classics in English literature, and can often be seen as the backdrop to
Hollywood blockbusters.There are museums, festivals and reenactments
held across the country to honour Switzerland’s affect on the imagination.
Sculpture of cyclists in
the Olympic Museum’s
expansive grounds
Active History
A meditative walk around the Olympic Museum
in Ouchy (p135) is the perfect introduction to
Switzerland’s sport obsession. The International J R R Tolkien and Lauterbrunnen
Olympic Committee is based in the city, but it’s For most Lord of the Rings fans, Middle Earth
the museum where you can enjoy a compre- means New Zealand, yet it was the sheer
hensive look into the history of the movement, cliffs, fairy tale grottoes and deep, dark
including halls dedicated to Olympic torches, forests of the rugged Bernese Oberland (p80)
sports memorabilia and medals. Zürich (p154), that inspired J R R Tolkien’s elvish valleys,
meanwhile, is home to the FIFA World Football troll-filled woods and craggy fortresses.
Museum, which charts the highs and
lows of the world’s most popular
sport. Understandably, the most A child at the The view of the Bernese
famous attraction is a selfie with FIFA World mountains that surround
the original World Cup trophy. Football Museum turquoise Oscheninsee
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Heidi and Graubünden
Johanna Spyri’s novel Heidi
tells the story of an orphan
girl who is taken to live with
her grandfather high up in the
Swiss Alps near Chur. The
most popular work of Swiss
fiction has been translated
into 50 languages, and cap-
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way at Heididorf, a village above
tured the imagi nation of
children the world over. Kids
can re-create her adven tures
Maienfeld (p261) .
Children reenacting
characters Heidi and Clara
walking across a meadow
SWITZERLAND IN
BOOKS AND FILM
Switzerland’s jaw-dropping landscapes have inspired some of the most-
read classics in English literature, and can often be seen as the backdrop to
Hollywood blockbusters.There are museums, festivals and reenactments
held across the country to honour Switzerland’s affect on the imagination.
J R R Tolkien and Lauterbrunnen
For most Lord of the Rings fans, Middle Earth
means New Zealand, yet it was the sheer
cliffs, fairy tale grottoes and deep, dark
forests of the rugged Bernese Oberland (p80)
that inspired J R R Tolkien’s elvish valleys,
troll-filled woods and craggy fortresses.
The view of the Bernese
mountains that surround
turquoise Oscheninsee
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