(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Switzerland

NORTHERN Wattwil Wattwil
NORTHERN
Zofingen Zofingen
SWITZERLAND Rüti
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 15 15 N N SWITZERLAND Rüti
p172
p172
0 miles 0 miles 15 15 Dagmersell Pfäffikon Pfäffikon Uznach Uznach
Dagmersellenen
Cham Cham Baar Lachen Lachen
Baar
Sursee Sursee Hochdorf Hochdorf ZUG ZUG
Biel (Bienne)
Biel (Bienne)
Sempacher Sempacher Rotkreuz Rotkreuz ZUG ZUG Sihlsee Sihlsee
Zuger
Zuger
See See See See
Huttwil Huttwil Willisau Willisau Ägerisee Ägerisee KLOSTER
KLOSTER
EINSIEDELN Näfels
KÜSSNACHT
LUZERN
Lyss Lyss LUZERN KÜSSNACHT Arth Arth EINSIEDELN Wägitaler Wägitaler Näfels CENTRAL CENTRAL
Burgdorf Burgdorf AM RIGI AM RIGI Goldau Goldau See See SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SCHW YZYZ
Wolhusen Wolhusen SCHW
AND TICINO
LUCERNE
LUCERNE RIGI RIGI AND TICINO
SCHWYZ
Zollikofen Zollikofen Vierwald- Vierwald- SCHWYZ Glarus Glarus
Horw
VITZNAU
Entlebuch Entlebuch Horw stättersee stättersee VITZNAU
Hergiswil Hergiswil
Schüpfheim
Bern Bern Schüpfheim PILATUS PILATUS Brunnen Brunnen Muotathal Muotathal
Köniz Köniz Alpnach Alpnach URNERSEE
URNERSEE
Bern Bern Worb Worb STANS STANS
International
International Sarnen Sarnen Flüelen Flüelen Linthal Linthal
Airport Airport ALTDORF
ALTDORF
Münsingen UNTER UNTERWALDENWALDEN BÜRGLEN
Münsingen
BÜRGLEN
Sarner See
Sarner See Klausen Klausen
Schwarzenbur Giswil Giswil URI URI Pass Pass Rhein Rhein Chur Chur
Schwarzenburgg
Gross Scharhorn
ENGELBERG
3,295 m (10,810 ft)
MITTELLAND, Sörenberg Sörenberg ENGELBERG Erstfeld Erstfeld Gross Scharhorn Flims Flims
MITTELLAND,
3,295 m (10,810 ft)
BERNESE OBERLAND Lungern Lungern Gross-Spannort Breil Breil
BERNESE OBERLAND
Gross-Spannort
Titlis
AND VALAIS
AND VALAIS 3,240 m (10,6730 ft) Titlis 3,198 m (10,492 ft) Ilanz Ilanz
3,198 m (10,492 ft)
3,240 m (10,6730 ft)
p80 p80
Gotthard Base
Brienzersee
Brienzersee Gotthard Base Lenzerheide
Lenzerheide
Tunnel
Tunnel
Susten Susten
Interlaken Interlaken Innertkirchen Pass Pass Wassen Wassen Disentis Disentis
Innertkirchen
Sustenhorn Sustenhorn Thusis Thusis
EASTERN
3,503 m (11,492 ft)
3,503 m (11,492 ft) Göschenen Göschenen EASTERN
Sedrun Sedrun
SWITZERLAND AND
Grindelwal Grindelwaldd SWITZERLAND AND
Andermatt
GRAUBÜNDEN
Wengen Wengen Andermatt GRAUBÜNDEN Zillis Zillis Savognin Savognin
Gotthard Tunnel
Furka Furka Gotthard Tunnel p238 p238
Pass Pass
MUSEO SASSO SAN GOTTARDO
Grimsel Grimsel Realp Realp MUSEO SASSO SAN GOTTARDO
Pass Pass
ST GOTTHARD PASS Olivone Olivone
ST GOTTHARD PASS
Splügen Splügen
Quinto Quinto
AIROLO AIROLO
Münster Münster
Chiggiogna VALLE D VALLE DII San Bernar San Bernardinodino
Chiggiogna
Fusio Valle Leventina BLENIO BLENIO Madesimo Madesimo
Fusio
VAL BAVONA
Riale Riale VAL BAVONA
Fiesch Fiesch
Valle Leventina
Mesocco
TICINO
TICINO Malvaglia Malvaglia Mesocco
Maggia
Maggia Sonogno Sonogno Giornico
Giornico
Brig Brig Bignasco Bignasco Biasca Biasca Soazza Soazza
Stampa Stampa
Cevio Cevio Brione Brione Chiavenna Chiavenna
Premia Premia VALLE VALLE
VALLE MAGGIA
VERZASCA
Simplon Simplon VALLE MAGGIA VERZASCA San San
Pass Pass Maggia Maggia Vittore Vittore
Novate Mezzola
Vogorno Vogorno Novate Mezzola
Simplon Simplon
BELLINZ BELLINZONAONA
IT AL Y
Crevoladossola CENTOVALLI
Crevoladossola CENTOVALLI LOCARN LOCARNOO Ticino Ticino IT AL Y
ASCONA ASCONA Domaso Domaso
Palagnedr Palagnedraa
Domodossola
Domodossola Brissago Brissago Vira Vira Piantedo Piantedo Morbegno Morbegno
Mezzovico Mezzovico
Lago Lago Fraccia Fraccia
Bioggio Bioggio Lugano di Como di Como
Lugano
IT AL YY
IT AL Lago Lago Luino
Luino
Staffa Staffa Maggior Maggioree
LAKE LAKE
Gravellona T Verbania Verbania LUGANO LUGANO Monte Gener Monte Generosooso
Gravellona Toceoce
1,704 m (5,590 ft)
1,704 m (5,590 ft)
Stresa Stresa
Alagna Valsesia
Alagna Valsesia Mendrisio Mendrisio
Chiasso Chiasso Lecco Lecco San Pellegrino
San Pellegrino
Varese Varese Terme Terme
Orta San Giulio Como Como
Orta San Giulio
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EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino


















1 2 \-=
LUCERNE KKL
⌂ Europaplatz 1 ∑ kkl-
luzern.ch
 D3 ⌂ 40 km (25 miles) SW of Zurich n Zentralstrasse 5;
www.luzern.com With its cantilevered roof, the
Kultur- und Kongresszentrum
Central Switzerland’s largest town, Lucerne (Luzern in Luzern (Luzern Culture and
German) lies on the western shore of Lake Lucerne. Convention Centre), or the
From its origins as a small fishing village, it grew into KKL, is a strikingly modernist
an important staging point when the St Gotthard Pass glass-and-steel building that 0 metres 300 N Gletschergarten
was opened in 1220. Easily explored on foot, the medi­ juts out over Lake Lucerne. It 0 yards 300 BERGSTRASS E Löwendenkmal A B E N D W E G
was designed by the French
eval Old Town lies on the north bank of the River Reuss architect Jean Nouvel and was H I N TERB R A M BE RG FL UHM AT T STR AS SE ZÜR I C H ST R ASS E Alpineum FELSBE R GSTRASSE
and can be reached by crossing over the Chapel Bridge. opened in 1998. The building ALLENWINDENST R . LÖWEN- DREILINDENSTRASSE
PLATZ
The best view of Lucerne is from the towers in the contains both intimate and B R AM BE RGST R A SS E Bourbaki Alter
forti fications that encircle the Old Town to the north. capacious theatres, concert B R A M B E RGSTRASS E Panorama WEYSTRASSE Friedhof ABEN DWEG
and conference halls, and the Wettstein- B E RG STR AS SE DREILINDE NS T R A S SE
Kunstmuseum, displaying M Ü H L E MATTSTRASSE park LÖW EN STR A S S E ADL IGE N SWILERSTRASSE
1 the bridge’s roof panels contemporary art. Lounge GE I S S M AT T ST R. SCHIRMERSTR. BRAM BERG S T R ASS E Hofkirche
were painted with scenes
areas, a range of restaurants
Chapel Bridge from the history of Lucerne and bars, and a seasonal ice SCH ILLINGSTR. MU SEG GST R A SS E ALPENSTRASSE H A L D E N S T R A S S E
This 14th-century covered and episodes in the lives of rink also add to the appeal. ST. KARLISTR. Museggmauer M US EGG STR ASSE HE RT EN ST E I N ST R A S S E Verkehrshaus der Schweiz
TÖPFERSTR.
footbridge spanning the the martyrs St Leodegar and Luegisland MARIAHILFGASSE SCHWEIZERHOFQUAI 1.5 km (1 mile)
Reuss at an angle formed St Mauritius, who became
part of the town’s early for- the town’s patron saints. Geissmatt- MU SEG GSTRAS SE GRABENSTR. GRENDELSTR. SCHWANEN-
brücke
tifications, protecting its The oldest wooden bridge ST KARLI-QUAI CYSATSTRASSE WEGGISGASSE Kapellplatz PLATZ Lake
citizens against attack from in Europe, Chapel Bridge Did You Know? Reuss LÖWE NG RA BE N KAPELLGASSE St Peterskapelle Lucerne
the direction of the lake. (Kapellbrücke) has become Spreuerbrücke Weinmarkt
Near the centre of the river, the symbol of Lucerne. In The town hosts the Naturmuseum MÜHLEN- KRONG. RATHAUSQUAI Chapel Seebrücke
PLATZ
the bridge joins the iconic 1993 the bridge was partly Lucerne Festival of Historisches Museum Rathaus Bridge Luz
Rathaus-
Reussbrücke
Wasserturm, an octagonal destroyed by a fire but it has Classical Music with REUSSSTEG brücke Wasserturm EUROPA-
tower that has served as a since been rebuilt and most three annual events. PFISTERGASSE Taube JESUITEN- BAHNHOFSTRASSE BAHNHOF- PLATZ
PL ATZ
PLATZ
lighthouse, a prison and a of its historic paintings have B R U C H S T R A S S E HIRSCHENGRABEN Jesuit STRASSE SEIDENHOF- Lucerne Kunstmuseum
HIRSCHENGRABEN Church
treasury. In the 17th century, been restored. GI BR A LTA RS T R A SS E FRANZISKANER- Rosengart Station KKL
PLATZ
Park
202 Franziskanerkirche Collection P I LATUS ST R. Richard Wagner Museum Inseli
2 km (1.5 miles)
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Must See
























Picturesque Chapel
Bridge over the
River Reuss

displayed in about 20 rooms contemporary artists. On the
3 "-= on the topmost floor of the same floor, and accessible
Kunstmuseum KKL building. The gallery to the general public, is the
has a fascinating permanent Kunstmuseum’s Art Library
⌂ KKL # 10am–5pm Tue–
Sun, 10am–8pm Wed col lection of 18th- and early which has an interesting
collection of various art
20th-century Swiss painting,
∑ kunstmuseumluzern.ch
and presents a rotating pro- books and magazines as
The fascinating collections gramme of exhibitions of well as an archive of previous
of the Kunstmuseum are the work of international exhibition catalogues.
0 metres 300 N Gletschergarten
Löwendenkmal A B E N D W E G
0 yards 300 BERGSTRASS E FL UHM AT T STR AS SE ZÜR I C H ST R ASS E
H I N TERB R A M BE RG Alpineum FELSBE R GSTRASSE
B R AM BE RGST R A SS E ALLENWINDENST R . LÖWEN- DREILINDENSTRASSE
PLATZ
Alter
Bourbaki
Panorama WEYSTRASSE Friedhof ABEN DWEG
B E RG STR AS SE
Wettstein- DREILINDE NS T R A S SE
park BRAM BERG S T R ASS E LÖW EN ST R A S SE ADL IGE N SWILERSTRASSE
B R A M B E RGSTRASS E
M Ü H L E MATTSTRASSE
SCH ILLINGSTR. MU SEG GSTR A SS E ALPENSTRASSE H A L D E N S T R A S S E
SCHIRMERSTR.
Hofkirche
GE I S S M AT T ST R.
Museggmauer
SCHWEIZERHOFQUAI
TÖPFERSTR.
MARIAHILFGASSE
ST. KARLISTR.
Luegisland M US EGG STR ASSE HE RT EN ST E I N ST R A S S E Verkehrshaus der Schweiz
1.5 km (1 mile)
GRABENSTR.
Geissmatt- MU SEG GSTRAS SE GRENDELSTR.
brücke CYSATSTRASSE WEGGISGASSE Kapellplatz SCHWANEN-
PLATZ
Lake
LÖWE NG RA BE N St Peterskapelle Lucerne
Reuss
ST KARLI-QUAI
Spreuerbrücke Weinmarkt KAPELLGASSE
MÜHLEN- RATHAUSQUAI Seebrücke
Naturmuseum PLATZ KRONG. Rathaus Chapel
Historisches Museum Rathaus- Bridge Luz
Reussbrücke brücke Wasserturm EUROPA-
REUSSSTEG
JESUITEN- BAHNHOFSTRASSE BAHNHOF- PLATZ
Taube PLATZ Jesuit PL ATZ Kunstmuseum
HIRSCHENGRABEN Church P I LATUS ST R. Inseli
PFISTERGASSE
Station
FRANZISKANER- STRASSE SEIDENHOF- Lucerne KKL
PLATZ Rosengart
B R U C H S T R A S S E
Collection
GI BR A LTA RS T R A SS E
HIRSCHENGRABEN
Franziskanerkirche Richard Wagner Museum Park
2 km (1.5 miles)
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4 5 7 "
Spreuerbrücke Franziskanerkirche Historisches Museum
This wooden covered bridge ⌂ Franziskanerplatz ⌂ Pfistergasse 24 # 10am–
spans the Reuss at the 5pm Tue–Sun ∑ historis
western edge of the Old This Franciscan church was chesmuseum.lu.ch
Town. It was built in 1408 built in the Gothic style, but
and incorporates a small over the centuries has been Lucerne’s history museum
transformed with ornate
chapel. The bridge’s roof is
occupies the former arsenal,
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino Dance of Death, they run in 6 been brought up to date with
a Renaissance building dating
lined with panels painted
Renaissance choir stalls and
from 1597. Also named the
by Kaspar Meglinger in
Baroque ceiling paintings.
Depot, the museum has
1626–35. Depicting the
interactive displays, barcodes
sequence from the north
and hand-held scanners in
bank and culminate with
Jesuit Church
place of traditional information
Christ’s triumph over Death
at the south bank.
boards and audio guides.
⌂ Bahnhofstrasse 11
The Nadelwerk, a device
Thousands of fascinating
historical objects on display
A major landmark on the
that controls floods, stands
south bank of the Reuss,
downstream of the bridge.
include weaponry, costumes,
the great Jesuitenkirche,
and folk art and crafts, as well
the Jesuit church of St Francis
as early advertising material
Did You Know?
however, its onion-domed
and tourism industries. Actors
in period costume dramatize
twin towers were not com-
scenes from history in daily
pleted until the 19th century.
Of the original
The Baroque interior is richly
performances at the museum.
67 paintings in the Xavier, was built in 1666–73, from the Swiss manufacturing
Spreuerbrücke Dance and colourfully decorated In the adjacent building is
of Death, 45 are with intricate stuccowork and the Naturmuseum. Its displays
preserved on beautiful ceiling paintings focus on various aspects of
the bridge. depicting the apotheosis of natural history, in particular
St Francis Xavier. zoology and geology.






Lucerne’s leafy riverside,
a relaxing place to walk
with stunning views
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Must See


0
Rathaus
⌂ Kornmarkt 3 § 041 227
17 17 # By arrangement
The present town hall, built
in a grand Renaissance style,
was completed in 1606. Of the
14th-century town hall that
stood on the same site, only
The mournful Lion Monument, carved into a tower remains. The council
the wall of a former sandstone quarry chamber inside is lined with
finely carved wood panelling.
8 arrested and guillotined on
the night of 2–3 September.
Löwendenkmal The Löwendenkmal, or Lion q
Monument, was designed Kapellplatz
⌂ Denkmalstrasse
by the Danish sculptor Bertel # St Peterskapelle:
This massive figure of a dying Thorwaldsen, and carved out 7:30am–6:15pm Mon–
lion pierced by a spear is a of the sandstone cliff face by Wed & Fri, 7:30am–9pm
startling monument to the Lukas Ahorn. The sculpture Thu, 7:30am–5pm Sat,
Swiss Guards of Louis XVI of was unveileved in 1821 and 8:30am–8pm Sun
France. On 10 August 1792, is 10 m (33 ft) long and 6 m
the guards defended the (20 ft) high. Reflected in the This square buzzes with life,
Palais des Tuileries, in Paris, waters of a small pond, the particularly on market days.
when it was stormed by monu ment has great drama In the centre lies the Fritschi
revolutionaries. Those who and pathos. Fountain, adorned with alle-
survived the attack were gorical figures depicting
Brother Fritschi, a figure of
Swiss legend who features in
9 " Lucerne’s Carnival tradition.
Naturmuseum Kapellplatz takes its name
from the 18th-century chapel,
⌂ Kasernenplatz 6
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun St Peterskapelle, which stands
∑ naturmuseum.ch on the site of a 12th-century
church, the earliest to be built
The Natural History Museum in Luzern. The chapel contains
is an easy ten-minute stroll a 14th-century Gothic crucifix.
from the Old Town, southwest
across the Spreuerbrücke.
With a variety of live animals INSIDER TIP
and interactive displays, this Lucerne's
is a popular choice with Markets
children and is one of the Although a relatively
country’s most family-friendly compact town, the
museums. Hallways are lined markets in Lucerne are
with stuffed animals, and dazzling in their array
there is a full-time guide on of goods. Small farmers
hand to explain the exhibits markets generally occur
in detail. There is plenty to on Tuesdays whereas
keep adults engaged, too, on weekends you'll find
such as the topographical a selection of unique
repre sentation of the Alps handicrafts, locally
in prehistoric times. Various produced food and
flora and fauna from central vintage gems. The
Switzerland, including a squares of Weinmarkt
brightly coloured exhibit and Kapellplatz are two
of butterflies, are displayed of the key hotspots.
on rotating panels.
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EAT

Luz
A perfect pit-stop, this Admiring a rich selection of Picasso’s work
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino delicious local Lucerne e " by research to date from the
tiny coffee joint serves
delicious snacks and
fabulous lake views.
⌂ Landungsbrücke 1
∑ luzseebistro.ch
in the private Rosengart Collection

Taube
Ice Age. The garden was made
The go-to place for
Rosengart Collection
to conserve this geological fea-
dishes, cooked just like
ture, which is protected by a
⌂ Pilatusstrasse 10
your grandmother
tent-roof that allows visitors to
# Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
would do.
view the rock from the sides.
daily; Nov–Mar: 11am–5pm
⌂ Burgerstrasse 3
daily ∑ rosengart.ch
an exhibition on the geological
∑ taube-luzern.ch
The Rosengart Collection
processes involved in creating

(Sammlung Rosengart) is a
private collection of over 300 The site includes a museum,
modernist paintings that was
formed over several decades
by the art dealers Siegfried
Rosengart and his daughter,
w "\ Angela. As well as 125 works
Bourbaki Panorama by Paul Klee, the museum also
has a fabulous collection of
⌂ Löwenplatz 11 # Apr–
Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Nov– watercolours and sculptures
Mar: 10am–5pm daily by Pablo Picasso, many of
them from the former Picasso
∑ bourbakipanorama.ch
Museum. The collection also
One of the world’s few includes Impressionist paint-
surviving panoramas, this ings, with canvases by Cézanne
giant circular mural depicts and Monet, as well as art
the march of the French works by Chagall, Matisse
army through Switzerland and Kandinsky.
under General Bourbaki,
during the Franco-Prussian
War (1870–71). In a stone
building now housed in a r "
glass shell, it is 112 m (370 ft) Gletschergarten
long and 10 m (33 ft) high, ⌂ Denkmalstrasse 4
and was painted by Edouard # Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily;
Castres. Sound effects, a Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm daily
spoken narrative (in several ∑ gletschergarten.ch
languages) and a smartphone
app help bring the characters This attractive garden is an
depicted to life and turn this oasis of tranquillity, as well
early form of storytelling into as being the setting for a
an incredibly immersive expe- fascinating natural phe-
rience with a digital narrative. nomenon. In 1872 an
The building hosts a variety of enormous rock, complete
cultural events and contains with 32 potholes and well-
a museum, a cinema and a sized holes, was excavated
small art gallery, as well as here. Formed by glacial
bars and a restaurant. abrasion, the rock was shown
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Must See
the holes and the fascinating
Mirror Maze of more than 90 PICTURE PERFECT
mirrors in the royal style of Fancy Frescoes a regular visitor to Lucerne.
Granada’s Alhambra fortress. Each building lining the It was here that he wrote the
Weinmarkt is uniquely third act of his opera Tristan
and intricately painted. und Isolde. Two complete
t Pay attention to the operas, Die Meistersinger von
details of these beau­
Nürnberg and Siegfried, date
Weinmarkt tiful frescoes that often from this period, and Wagner
Lined with historic houses, tell a story and be sure also started work here
this square is one of the most to take a snapshot of on Götterdämmerung.
attractive features of the Old the square. The tranquil Villa Tribschen,
Town. In the centre stands the where Wagner and his wife
Weinmarktbrunnen, a Gothic and son lived from 1866 to
fountain which is a close copy 1872, is devoted to this par­
of the original that now stands y "- ticularly happy period. Its
in the quiet courtyard of the Richard Wagner rooms, with original furniture,
Ritterscher Palast, on pretty Museum are filled with memorabilia of
Bahnhofstrasse. The houses ⌂ Richard-Wagner-Weg 27 the composer’s life, including
around both this square and #Apr–Nov: 10am–5pm paintings, letters and musical
the adjacent Hirschenplatz Tue–Sun ∑ richard- instruments. Overlooking the
have painted façades, ornate wagner-museum.ch lake, the museum’s setting is
doorways and oriel windows. very tranquil and there is also
Many of these buildings were The German Romantic a little café outside in the
once guild houses, and Passion composer Richard Wagner was summer months.
Plays enacting Christ’s last
days were performed in this
iconic location in the late
Middle Ages. These plays grew
famous across Europe.
































The brightly coloured
frescoes decorating
Weinmarkt's buildings

207



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u "'\=
VERKEHRSHAUS


DER SCHWEIZ


EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino The Swiss Museum of Transport celebrates one of humankind’s most
⌂ Lidostrasse 5 # Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–5pm
daily ∑ verkehrshaus.ch
fundamental longings: the urge to travel across our planet and beyond
it. Planes and spacecraft hang overhead in its lofty galleries while the
floors are filled with more earthbound means of transport.
Almost every mode of mechanized transport, from the earliest
bicycle to the latest spacecraft, is displayed at Lucerne’s Swiss
Museum of Transport, Switzerland’s most visited museum.
Vintage cars and steam locomotives are part of the exhibitions
Did You Know?
on road and rail transport, while the tourism section highlights
the ingenuity of rack railways and cable cars. Water transport,
The first Swiss railway
aviation and space travel are also showcased. Among the muse­
company was called
um’s interactive features are three flight simulators, as well as a
Spanisch Brötli Bahn,
range of activ ities for young visi tors. The museum also boasts
the country’s largest planetarium and the Swiss Chocolate literally “Spanish bread
roll railway”.
Adventure, which immerses visitors in the delicious world
of one of Switzerland’s principal exports.











GALLERY GUIDE A hands-on exhibit that allows families to
The rooms to the left of play a game involving Geneva Airport
the main entrance are
devoted to rail trans-
port. Opposite the main
entrance is the Road
Transport Hall. The
other main rooms con-
tain aviation and space
travel exhibits. The
museum’s Filmtheatre
has the largest screen
in the country, while
the planetarium and
the Swiss Chocolate
Adventure are fun as
well as edu cational.
Eye-catching transport signs covering
the exterior of the museum
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Must See

































































Exhibits, including a colourful
paraglider, on display at the
Swiss Transport Museum
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A SHORT WALK
OLD TOWN Did You Know?

The Chapel Bridge
(Kapellbrücke) is the
Distance 1 km (0.5 miles) Nearest bus stop oldest covered wooden
Hirschengraben Time 20 minutes bridge in Europe.
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino Ages the town was defended by ramparts on its Many of the paintings on the
Lucerne’s historic Old Town (Altstadt) is set on a
shallow bend of the Reuss at the point where
the river turns from Lake Lucerne. From the Middle
northern side and by Chapel Bridge, which spans
the river on its eastern side. The Old Town’s ancient
layout survives, and the façades of its fine historic
houses, particularly around Hirschenplatz and
along Weinmarktgasse, are painted with frescoes
façades of the houses in
or covered with sgraffito decoration. This historic
Lucerne’s Old Town are full
district of Lucerne is also a bustling urban centre,
of symbolism and allusions.
with plenty of shops, restaurants and cafés.


The central square of Weinmarkt
(p207), where wine was once sold, W E G G I S G A S S E
has several fine houses, many of
which were guildhalls. E I S E N G A S S E

K A P E L LG A S S E


R O S S L I G A S S E


K ORNMARK T–
PL ATZ
W E I N M A R K T




U N T E R D E R E G G







The narrow alleys off
Weinmarkt are lined with tall
houses, some with colourfully
painted shutters. Many of
these houses have been START
converted into hotels, or
contain boutiques
and restaurants. Completed in 1606, the late
Renaissance Rathaus (p205)
has an ornate façade.
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The elaborate façades of Lucerne’s
medieval buildings on Weinmarkt
The fountain in Kapellplatz (p205) is crowned
by a figure of Fritschi, a legendary character
associated with spring and joy. He is celebrated
at Fasnacht, Lucerne’s great spring festival.

A relief showing Christ
FINISH and his disciples in the
Garden of Gethsemane,
W E G G I S G A S S E S TERNEN– St Peterskapelle’s
is set into the chapel of
PL ATZ
south wall.


The covered Chapel Bridge
K APELL–
PL ATZ (p202) has become the
symbol of Lucerne.
E I S E N G A S S E
K A P E L LG A S S E Originally built in the 14th
century, the footbridge
was partly destroyed by
fire in 1993 and has
been reconstructed.
F U R R E N G A S S E
0 metres 30 N
R AT H A U S Q U A I 0 yards 30



















Pretty Chapel
Bridge, stretching
over the Reuss
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2
PILATUS



! D3 ⌂ 45 km (28 miles) SW of Zürich
The rugged outlines of Pilatus, whose highest peak reaches an altitude of 2,132 m
(7,000 ft), rise on the southwestern side of Lake Lucerne. Various legends shroud
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino The massif has plenty to entertain Walking up
the mountain, including claims that it is both home to a dragon and that its
heights are haunted by Pontius Pilate, who unleashes violent storms.


visitors, including walking trails to
its various peaks, a rope park
and paragliding, as well as
plenty of restaurants and
a signposted
two hotels. Getting to the
trail to the
summit is an adventure
marker on
in itself. The first stage is
Oberhaupt
a boat or train ride from
Lucerne to Alpnachstad,
near the foot of Pilatus,
from where you can
either take the cogwheel
railway, a gondola or a peak
cable car called the “Dragon
Ride” (www.pilatus.ch) from
Schlossweg 1 to Pilatus Kulm,
the upper station. The mag nificent
views from Pilatus’ summit reward
the journey.















COGWHEEL RAILWAY
Completed in 1889, the cog railway that
climbs from Alpnachstad to Pilatus Kulm
is, at an average gradient of 48 per cent,
the steepest in the world. Designed by
engineer Eduard Locher, the railway is
almost 5 km (3 miles) long, and the jour­
ney takes 30 minutes. Originally driven
by steam locomotives, the railway was
electrified in 1937. One of the original
steam railcars can be seen at the Swiss
Museum of Transport in Lucerne (p208).


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Must See
1 Gondolas take visitors over
the lush forest from Kriens to
the top of Pilatus, offering
panoramic views.
2 A variety of restaurants are
found at Pilatus’s summit.
3 Built in 1890, Hotel Pilatus­
Kulm is a luxurious lodge with
a beautiful restaurant.
1
INSIDER TIP
Flora Path
Follow the easy, well­
marked flower trail at
the top of Pilatus for an
insight into the many
colourful flowers that
dot the hillside; some,
like the Alpine dwarf
orchid, can only be
found at this altitude.
2 3








































A cable car descending from
the Pilatus terminal, pass­
ing breath taking scenery
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3 "
KLOSTER


EINSIEDELN Did You Know?


EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino Completed in 1735, the Benedictine abbey at Einsiedeln In the abbey's library is
 D2 ⌂ Hauptstrasse 85 # Church: 6am–8:30pm daily
(to 9pm Easter–Nov); Grosser Saal: 1:30–6pm daily; library:
2pm daily or by appointment ∑ kloster-einsiedeln.ch
is one of the finest examples of Baroque architecture
Versus de scachis, with
in the world. The abbey has been a place of pilgrimage
the earliest known
since 948 when, according to legend, a miracle occured
mention of chess in
during the consecration of the church, and now more
Western literature.
than one million pilgrims come here each year.
The history of the abbey goes back to 835, when Meinrad, a
monk, chose the spot for his hermitage. In 934 a monastery
was founded on the site, and it soon flourished as a place of
learning, printing and music. Its library became renowned for
its extensive collection of manuscripts. In the 13th century the
a fine example of
pilgrimage to the abbey became known as the “Einsiedeln The abbey library is
tradition”. The abbey was remarkably left alone during the Baroque style.
the Refor mation in the 16th century, despite the fact
Protesant Reformist Ulrich Zwingli preached The confessional is
located in the
here during this time. The church and monas­ north transcept.
tery were rebuilt in the 18th century,
to a grand Baroque design. Most of
the paintings, gilding and stucco work
are by the Bavarian brothers Cosmas
Damian and Egid Quirin Asam.
Today 60 monks continue
to work and follow the
Benedictine tradition.




The statue of
the Virgin
crowning the
Well of Our
Lady











As they arrive, pilgrims
drink the water from
the Well of Our Lady.

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Must See
1 The Benedictine abbey
glistens under a layer of
snow, flanked by the
Mythen mountains.
2 The 15th-century
wooden figure of the
Madonna, reputed to have
miraculous powers, stands
in gilt surroundings.
3 An intricately carved
statue stands guard
in front of the abbey.
1

The walls, ceiling
and domes of the
church are covered
with frescoes and
gilt stuccowork.


2 3



The 18th-century abbey
complex, built in typically
opulent Baroque style















The lavishly decorated
Grosser Saal, or Great
Hall, is still used for
official ceremonies.

INSIDER TIP
Christmas Time
The organ is bedecked Every December a
with figures of putti Christmas market
playing instruments. sets up along the town's
main street and on the
The spacious nave abbey square. With more
is decorated with than 150 stalls, it is one
Baroque frescoes. of the country's largest.
Be sure to sample the
gingerbread (it’s a tasty
Figures of angels and the
symbols of the Four Evangelists local speciality).
decorate the gilt pulpit.
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4 \-=
LAKE LUGANO



! E6 ⌂ 158 km (98 miles) S of Zürich n Lugano train station,
Riva Giocondo Albertolli; 091 913 32 32
Nestling between steep Alpine slopes, this sheltered, glacial lake is
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino A gateway to the Alps, Lake Lugano (Lago di Ceresio in Italian) Fossils dating from the
one of Ticino’s most beautiful natural features. Although most of it
lies in Swiss territory, the southwestern shore, northeastern branch
and a small central enclave belong to Italy.


endured a medieval tug-of-war between different Italian, and
Did You Know?
later, Swiss factions. It was only in 1752, when the Italian-Swiss
border was fixed, that control of the lake was settled, and it
re mains largely unchanged to this day.
mid-Triassic (around
A road bridge crosses the lake at Melide, leading up to the
220 million years ago)
St Gotthard Tunnel, but the best way of exploring it is by boat,
have been found
from the town of Lugano or several other points along the lake-
shore. The lake’s shape is unusual, twisting into branches dotted
with villages and semitropical parks which cling to its rugged
shoreline, and is best understood from above. Fortu nately, a
funicular from Lugano up Monte Brè and a cog wheel railway
from Capolago up Monte Generoso allow just that, carrying around the lake.
passengers into the mountains that flank the lake.
1 The restaurant atop Monte
Generoso, designed by Mario
Botta, commands stunning
views of the southern shores
of the lake.
2 Swissminiatur, the main
attraction of Melide, displays
1:25 scale models of the
country’s landmarks.
3 The panorama of Lake
Lugano and the mountains
in the distance spills away
from Monte Brè, which lies
north of the lake.
1 2



















3
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Must See

PICTURE PERFECT
The Pearl
of Ceresio
Set sail towards pretty
Morcote, dubbed the
Pearl of Ceresio. The
postcard-ready terrac ed
vineyards, with the
domed Captain’s Tower
clinging to the slopes,
are best viewed from
the water.


















































The small church of Santa
Maria del Sasso overlooking
the lakeside hamlet of Morcote
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A SHORT WALK
LUGANO 17


The number of
heritage sites of
Distance 1 km (0.5 miles) Nearest funicular Lugano national significance
Città Time 20 minutes in Lugano.
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino of finance and banking. With piazzas, stepped streets The 18th-century
Lying in a shallow inlet on the north shore of Lake
Lugano, this is the largest town in Ticino and one of the
canton’s great lakeside resorts. Lugano is also a centre
and narrow, winding alleys, the Old Town (Centro Storico)
has an Italianate character. Its hub is Piazza della Riforma,
Palazzo Riva has
a square lined with tall shuttered buildings
decorated windows
and filled with busy pavement cafés. Palm-
with wrought-iron
fringed promenades line the quays, and
START
balconies.
the distinctive sugar-loaf outlines of
Monte Brè and Monte San Salvatore
rise to the east and south.
The Renaissance façade of
Cattedrale San Lorenzo
contains a rose window
depicting the Madonna V I A S A N LO R E N Z O V I A P E S S I N A
and Child.
V I A M O T TA V I A M A G AT T I





PIAZZA DELL A
RIF ORMA













Palazzo Civico, the R I VA G I O C O N D O A L B E R T O L L I
Neo-Classical town
hall built in 1844–5,
features a statue of
the architect Domenico Filled with pavement
Fontana from Melide. cafés, Piazza della
Riforma is the social
and geographical
hub of Lugano’s
historic centre.
A pastel-coloured
restaurant on the
Piazza della Riforma
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The luxuriously decorated nave of Cattedrale
San Lorenzo in Lugano, with intricate frescos


Replacing an earlier Gothic church, San
Rocco, with its Baroque high altar, was
V I A M A G AT T I built after the plague that swept through
the city in 1528.


V I A V E G E Z Z I
Palazzo dei Congressi
conference centre, built
in 1975, is set in a park
with fountains and
modern statuary.






V I A E LV E Z I A FINISH
R I VA G I O C O N D O A L B E R T O L L I


R I VA G I O C O N D O
A L B E R T O L L I


Built in the 17th
century and
remodelled in the
0 metres 30 N mid-19th, Villa Ciani
is a focal point for
0 yards 30 special events.



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EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino A quiet sunny day in









Piazza Grande, the core
of the town of Locarno


5 \-=
The interior decoration dates
LOCARNO
mainly from the 18th century.
3
! E5 ⌂ 136 km (85 miles) S of Zürich n Piazza Stazione; country-dwellers respectively.
www.ascona-locarno.com
Castello Visconteo
With an enchanting setting at the northern tip of Lake
Maggiore, Locarno lies in a wide bay in the shelter of ⌂ Piazza Castello 2 # Apr–
Oct: 10am–noon & 2–5pm
the Lepontine Alps. It is often said to be the sunniest Tue–Sun ∑ locarno.ch
of all Swiss towns, and date palm, fig, pomegranate
and bougainvillea thrive in its mild climate. During The origins of this cas tle go
back to the 12th century, when
the Middle Ages, Locarno was the centre of a dispute it was built for the Orelli family.
be tween the bishops of Como and the dukes of Milan, In 1342 owner ship fell into the
until the Swiss Confederates gained control in 1512. hands of the Milanese Visconti
The capital of Ticino from 1803 to 1878, today Locarno family. The dove tailed crenel-
is a resort that attracts visitors from north of the Alps lation of the walls and the
who come to enjoy its Mediterranean climate. towers dates from a series of
15th-century expansions, as
does the ravelin for tifica tion,
be lieved to be the work of
becomes an open-air cinema, Leonardo da Vinci. The sur-
1 \-= lined with rows of seats and viving wing now houses an
Piazza Grande a huge screen. archaeology museum, which
This rectangular paved square, has a partic ularly good col-
one of Switzerland’s biggest, lection of Roman artifacts.
is the focus of life in Locarno. 2
Along its north side are 19th-
century buildings with arcades Chiesa San Francesco
of shops, cafés and restau- ⌂ Via Cittadella 20
rants. There is a weekly market 2,155
here selling handicrafts and Completed in 1572, the church
local produce on Thursdays, of St Francis stands on the site
concerts are held in July, and of a 13th-century Franciscan The average hours of
during the well-renowned monastery. The eagle, ox and sunshine Locarno
International Film Festival, lamb on its Renaissance façade enjoys every year.
a ten-day extravaganza held represent Locarno’s aris to-
in early August, the square crats, ordinary citizens and
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Orselina Must See
Funicolare Madonna del Sasso
4 \-= Santuario
Promenade VIA ALLA BA S I L I CA della Madonna
Lungolago Giuseppe del Sasso V I A D E L S O L E
Motta V. MARIANI
Lined with trees, plants and VIA AI MONTI Muralto VIA SAN GOTTARDO
Belvedere
VIA
shrubs from around the world, V I A S EMP I O N E STAZIONE MURALTO
this lakeshore promenade VIA A I MONTI V I A AL SASSO Locarno
VIA COLLEGIATA
r esem bles the seafront boule­ VIA AI MONT I Locarno Station Chiesa di
PIAZZA
vards of the French Riviera. Chiesa VIA C APPUCCINI FLMS V. SAN GOTTARDO STAZIONE San Vittore
Sant’Antonio
The prom enade leads north­ Abate VIA BORGHESE Chiesa V. D. MONACHE Parco Lungolago
VIALE VERBANO
wards to the end of the lake, Nuova Locarno
where the Ghisla Art Collection, VIA CITTADELLA LARGO FRANCESCO ZORZI
Casa
Parco
a small gallery, hangs an Rusca Piazza del Toro
eclectic array of abstract art. Castello Grande V. DELLA PACE Ghisla
VIA ANTONIO CISERI
Art Collection
To the south, the prom enade Visconteo Promenade
VIA BERNARDINO LUINI
leads towards the marina, Chiesa San Lungolago
Francesco
beyond which is a sandy beach PIAZZA VIA GIOVANNI ORELLI Giuseppe Motta
Palazzo della
and an im pres sive public pool. CASTELLO Conferenza V. S. DA LOCARNO Lake
0 metres 300 N VIA STEFANO FRANSCINI GIUSEPPE MOTTA Maggiore
0 yards 300 VIA FRANCESCO BALLERINI
LUNGOLAGO
Parco Isolino
5
Chiesa di San Vittore
⌂ Via Collegiata, Muralto 7 "'-
Built in the 12th­century, the Casa Rusca
Romanesque basilica of San ⌂ Piazza Sant’ Antonio
Vittore stands on the site of a § 091 756 31 85 # 10am–
10th­century church in Muralto, 12pm & 2–5pm Tue–Sun
east of the train station. The
basilica’s belfry, begun in the This elegant 18th­century
16th century but only com­ residence, with an arcaded
pleted in 1932, has a charming courtyard, houses Locarno’s
Renaissance relief of St Victor. art gallery. Fully refurbished in
The austere inter ior bears 2018, the museum focuses on
traces of medieval frescoes, the work of modern and con­ Detail of the exquisite
and below, the crypt contains temporary artists, many of ceiling of Santuario della
columns with carved capitals. whom have donated pieces Madonna del Sasso
of their work to the gallery.
A highlight of the permanent where legend claims the
6 collection is a display of work Madonna appeared before
by Hans Arp (1886–1966), the
Bartolomeo da Ivrea, a monk
Chiesa Nuova Dadaist artist who spent his in the Franciscan order. The
final years in Locarno. present church is decorated
⌂ Via Cittadella
with frescoes and oil paintings,
This church, also known as including an altarpiece with
Chiesa Santa Maria Assunta, 8 the Flight into Egypt painted
was completed in 1636. Its by Bramantino in 1522.
construction was funded Santuario della
by the architect Cristoforo Madonna del Sasso
Orelli. It has a splendid pastel­ ⌂ Via Santuario 2, Orselina 9
painted Baroque inte rior with # 7am–6pm daily
sumptuous stucco work and ∑ madonnadelsasso.org Palazzo della
paintings depic ting scenes Conferenza
from the life of the Virgin. The pilgrimage church of the ⌂ Via della Pace
Gracing the west front is a Madonna of the Rock (Santa
large statue of St Christopher Maria Assunta) overlooks the It was in this palazzo that the
with unusually tiny feet for a town from the summit of a Treaty of Locarno, drawn up
statue of its size. The Palazzo wooded spur. Dating from between Germany and other
Cristoforo Orelli, next to the 1596, the church stands on European countries in the
church, now serves as the the site of a chapel that was aftermath of World War I,
canon’s office. built in 1487 to mark the spot was ratified in 1925.
221
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EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino long suspension bridge








The 270-m- (885-ft-)

above Bellinzona town


6 \-=
BELLINZONA
Did You Know?
Carnevale Rabadan
! E5 ⌂ 136 km (85 miles) S of Zürich n Palazzo Civico; Bellinzona’s annual
www.bellinzonaturismo.ch (meaning “noise
carnival”) is over
Due to its strategic location between the great Alpine 150 years old.
passes, Bellinzona was a fortress town from Roman
times. During the Middle Ages, the dukes of Milan built
the three castles here that now form a UNESCO World
Heritage Site. The town was taken over by the Swiss an arcaded courtyard, and
the Chiesa Santa Maria delle
Confederates in the 16th century, and became the Grazie, a church with 15th­ Bellinzona
capital of Ticino in 1803. century frescoes. On Saturday MARZIO VELA Station VIA PEDEMONTE
mornings the Old Town fills D'ALBERTI VIALE PORTO N E V. CANCELLIERE MOLO
VIA CAMPO
VIA VINCENZO
joined by crenellated walls that with colourful market stalls Monte Carasso funicular VIALE STAZIONE
VIA VINCENZO
1 "'\ form inner baileys. In the south heaped with fresh produce 2 km (1.2 miles) PIAZZA
Castelgrande wing, the museum documents such as cheeses and bread, Castelgrande DEL SOLE V. AI RO NCHI
VIALE STAZIONE
Bellinzona’s history, displaying plus wines and local crafts. Lift V. CODEBORGO VIA PIAN L ORENZO
⌂ Salita Castelgrande a set of 15th­century painted
# Hours vary check SALITA AL CA STE L G R A N D E PIAZZA Chiesa Collegiata
COLLE-
website ∑ bellinzonese- panels from the walls and ceil­ PIAZZA GIATA dei Pietro e Stefano
Old
altoticino.ch ing of a villa from the town. 3 Palazzo Civico Town Castello di
GOVERNO
Set on a high plateau on the Chiesa Collegiata dei V. CANONICO GHIRINGHELLI VIA DOGANA Montebello V IA A R TOR E
west side of the Old Town, this Pietro e Stefano VIALE S. FRANSCINI PIAZZA Chiesa di San Rocco V I A A R T O R E
is the oldest and most impres­ 2 \-= ⌂ Piazza Collegiata INDIPEN- VIA BEN E DETT O F ERRINI
DENZA
sive of Bellinzona’s three cas­ Old Town V. GIOVANNI NIZZOLA VIA F. BONZANIGO
tles. In the 12th century, the Bellinzona’s Old Town nestles This Renaissance monastery Sasso Corbaro
Castello di
VIA NOCCA
Roman fortress that already in the wide Ticino valley, in the church stands at the foot of
stood on the site was rebuilt shadow of its great medieval the ramparts of Castelgrande. V. BRENNO BERTONI V I A L U G A N O VIA SASSO CO R B ARO
and enlarged by the bishops castles. With Italianate squares, The interior retains an earlier VICOLO CRACCO
of Como. The fortress was Renaissance buildings and red set of Gothic arches, and is VIA F. PEDO TTI
extended on several occa sions cobblestones peppering its sublimely dec orated with Chiesa VIA OSPEDALE VIA OSPEDALE V. S AS S O CORBARO
until the late 15th century. winding alleys, it is a typical elaborate stucco work and Santa Maria San Biagio
Chiesa di
delle Grazie
Today Castelgrande’s main Lombard town. Among the lavish frescoes. Over the VIA RAVECCHIA
features are the Torre Bianca town’s many fine buildings high altar is a depic tion of VIA S. BIAGIO VIA BELSOGGIORNO
(White Tower) and the Torre are the Palazzo Civico, an the Crucifixion, painted by Villa dei
Cedri
Nera (Black Tower), which are elegant town hall with Simone Peterzano in 1658. VIA ROMPEDA VIA PEDEVILLA C A R RALE BACILIERI 0 metres 300 N
222 VIA LUGANO 0 yards 300
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Must See



INSIDER TIP
The Tibetan
Bridge
From the Bellinzona
suburbs, a funicular
will carry you through
chestnut woods up into
Monte Carasso. A pleas­
ant circular hike leads to
the spectacular Carasc
wooden Tibetan bridge,
anchored with flex ible
cables. It hangs above
the Sementina Valley,
and offers sweep ing
views over the treetops
to the town.



castles. The crenellated walls
4 "' linking Castello di Montebello, 5 "'\
Castello di Montebello to the east of the town, and Castello di Sasso
Castelgrande, to the west, Corbaro
⌂ Via Artore 4 # Hours
vary, check website created a formidable defence ⌂ Via Sasso Corbaro 44
sys tem across the valley. The
∑ bellinzonese-altoticino.ch # Hours vary, check
views from the castle are website ∑ bellinzonese-
Consisting of a 13th-century spectacular; on a clear day altoticino.ch
keep and a 15th-century resi- you can see as far as Lake
dential palace surrounded by Maggiore (p234). A museum, in Castello di Sasso Corbaro is the
walls, this fortress is the most the keep, contains archaeolo- youngest of the town’s three
complex of Bellinzona’s three gical artifacts from the vicinity. fortresses. It was built in 1479
to the design of Benedetto
Ferrini, after the Swiss had
Bellinzona defeated the Milanese at the
VIALE PORTO N E V. CANCELLIERE MOLO VIA PEDEMONTE Battle of Giornico, thus increas-
Station
VELA
ing the threat to Ticino. The
MARZIO
VIA CAMPO
VIA VINCENZO
D'ALBERTI
VIA VINCENZO
Monte Carasso funicular VIALE STAZIONE fortress, a tall quad rilateral
2 km (1.2 miles) PIAZZA res idential tower and square
DEL SOLE
Castelgrande V. AI RO NCHI ram parts, is set on an elevated
V. CODEBORGO VIA PIAN L ORENZO headland on the east side of
VIALE STAZIONE
Lift
PIAZZA Chiesa Collegiata the town, and com mands wide
COLLE- dei Pietro e Stefano views across the Ticino valley
SALITA AL CA STE L G R A N D E
GIATA all the way to Lake Maggiore.
V. CANONICO GHIRINGHELLI Palazzo Civico INDIPEN- Chiesa di San Rocco V IA A R TOR E 6 "
PIAZZA
Old
GOVERNO
Town
Castello di
Montebello
V I A A R T O R E
VIA BEN E DETT O F ERRINI
VIA DOGANA
PIAZZA
NIZZOLA
DENZA
VIALE S. FRANSCINI
Villa dei Cedri
V. GIOVANNI
Castello di
V I A L U G A N O VIA F. BONZANIGO VICOLO CRACCO VIA SASSO CO R B ARO ⌂ Piazza San Biagio 9
VIA NOCCA
Sasso Corbaro
# 2–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–
6pm Sat & Sun ∑ villa
V. BRENNO BERTONI
cedri.ch
Chiesa VIA F. PEDO TTI V. S AS S O CORBARO Overlooking a vineyard, this
Santa Maria Chiesa di Neo-Renaissance villa is the
delle Grazie San Biagio VIA RAVECCHIA town’s art gallery. On display
VIA OSPEDALE VIA OSPEDALE
Villa dei VIA S. BIAGIO VIA BELSOGGIORNO are 19th- and 20th-century
Cedri C A R RALE BACILIERI paintings and prints, including
works by Giovanni Segantini.
VIA LUGANO VIA ROMPEDA VIA PEDEVILLA 0 metres 300 300 N 223
0 yards
222-223_EW_Switzerland.indd 223 29/11/2018 13:08

8
Küssnacht am Rigi
! D3 @ g n Unterdorf 15;
www.hohlgassland.ch
The small town of Küssnacht
am Rigi lies at the foot of the
Rigi. This massif rises to the
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino The town is a good base for
east of the Küssnachtersee,
which extends as the northern
arm of Lake Lucerne.
hiking and other activities in
the mountains and for explor-
ing Lake Lucerne.
Buildings of interest in
Küssnacht’s historic district
include the Baroque town hall
and the Kirche St Peter und St
Paul. Another is the Engel
Hotel, a half-timbered building
been an inn for over 400 years.
A fountain standing
in Zug’s picturesque
medieval Old Town that dates from 1552 and has
9
Rigi and Vitznau
EXPERIENCE MORE ! D3 £ @
n Bahnhofstrasse 7,
Vitznau; www.rigi.ch
7 Zug, with small permanent The Rigi massif, with views
collections of local history,
of 13 lakes and hundreds of
Zug as well as special exhibitions. peaks, is one of Switzerland’s
Nearby is a 16th-century most popular holiday destin-
! E3 £ @ g granary now converted into ations. Instead of glaciers and
n Bahnhofstrasse;
www. zug-tourismus.ch the Kunsthaus, a gallery with crevasses, there are lavish
an important collection of resort hotels and hiking paths
Zug is set on the northeastern Viennese modern art. The through woods and open
shore of the Zugersee, in Museum für Urgeschichte(n) pastures with more than 1,000
the wooded foothills of the concentrates both on species of flora. The highest of
Zugerberg. It is the capital prehistory and antiquity.
of its namesake, Zug, the Cruises on the Zugersee
smallest but also the rich- depart from the harbour jetty. INSIDER TIP
est of all the Swiss cantons. Trotti Bike
Having the lowest taxation in Museum Burg Zug Ride down prepared
Switzerland, Zug has become " ⌂ Kirchenstrasse 11 forest trails on these
the headquarters of many # 2–5pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm stand-up scooter-like
multinational companies. Sun ∑ burgzug.ch bikes with fat tyres and
Substantial parts of the no seat. They are
walls, set with towers, still Kunsthaus suitable for anyone
encircle Zug’s medieval Old " ⌂ Dorfstrasse 27 aged ten and up and can
Town. The main hub of the # Noon–6pm Tue–Fri, be rented in Engelberg
Old Town is Kolinplatz, which 10am–5pm Sat & Sun (www.titlis.ch).
features a fountain with a ∑ kunsthauszug.ch
statue of Wolfgang Kolin, a
standard-bearer of the Swiss Museum für
army. Nearby stands the Urgeschichte(n)
Gothic Rathaus, built in 1509. " ⌂ Hofstrasse 15 The thrilling Titlis Cliff
The former bailiff’s castle # 2–5pm Tue–Sun Walk, Europe’s highest
houses the Museum Burg ∑ urgeschichte-zug.ch suspension bridge
224



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the summits is called Rigi- the Winkelriedhaus, a late
Kulm (1,798 m/5,900 ft), less Gothic building that houses
than half the height of the a museum of local folk crafts
Matterhorn, but a lot easier STAY and traditions.
to climb with children.
A popular base is Vitznau,
which lies in a sheltered bay Rigi Kaltbad 11
on the north shore of Lake Spa Hotel
Lucerne. Vitznau is also the A designer retreat Engelberg
base station of the oldest high on Mount Rigi ! D4 £ @ n Klosterstrasse
rack railway in Europe, with epic views. 3, www.engelberg.ch
opened in 1871. It leads up ! D3 ⌂ Zentum 4,
to just below the summit Rigi Kaltbad Within easy reach of both
of Rigi-Kulm, offering ∑ hotelrigikaltbad.ch Lucerne and Zürich, Engelberg
breathtaking views. is one of central Switzerland’s
 main moun tain resorts. It lies
at an altitude of 1,000 m
Hotel & Spa
10 Internazionale (3,280 ft), at the foot of Titlis,
whose rocky peak reaches
Stans A powder pink 3,239 m (10,627 ft) to a glacier.
! D4 £ @ n Bahnhofplatz confection with The village nestles around
4; www.tourismusstans.ch pleasant rooms in the Kloster, a Benedictine
the town centre. monastery. Founded in the
Stans is a town on the banks ! E5 ⌂ Viale Stazione 12th century and rebuilt in
of the River Engel berger Aa. 35, Bellinzona ∑ hotel- the mid-18th, it has an exqui-
Above the small town rises internazionale.ch site Rococo church, built in
the Stanserhorn (1,900 m/ 1735–40. The monastery,
6,234 ft), the summit of which  and its working cheese dairy,
can be reached from Stans by are open to visitors.
funicular and the world’s first Engelberg has about 80 km
double-decker cable car with (50 miles) of skiing pistes. It
an open top. also offers tobogganing and
The town’s charming monument to Arnold von ice-skating facilities. Marked
historic district revolves Winkelried who sacrificed his trails in the vicinity lead up to
around Dorfplatz. This square life to help his Confederate the summits of Schlossberg
is dominated by a Baroque comrades defeat the Austrians Titlis, Urirotstock and Hutstock.
parish church, Pfarrkirche St at the Battle of Sempach There are also many cycling
Peter und St Paul, with a in 1386. routes. The Rotair cable car,
Romanesque tower, the Also noteworthy in the which rotates as it travels to
remains of an earlier church. town are the Höfli, a medieval give passengers an all-round
In the centre of Dorfplatz turreted house that contains a view, runs from Stand, above
stands a 19th-century museum of local history, and Engelberg, over the Titlis
glacier. Those with a head for
heights can also inch across
the Titlis Cliff Walk, Europe’s
highest suspension bridge,
at 3,040 m (9,980 ft).























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12
Schwyz
! E3 @ £ n Zeughaus
strasse 10; www.schwyz-
tourismus.ch
This quiet town, capital of the
canton of the same name, lies
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino and culture. steep-sided mountains the Urnersee resembles
at the foot of the twin peaks
of the Mythen. It has immense
importance in Swiss history
The canton of Schwyz gave
Switzerland both its name and
its flag. Having sworn their
mutual allegiance in 1291, the
The calm waters of
joint forces of Schwyz, Uri and
a Norwegian fjord. On an
Unterwalden united to defeat
Urnersee, backed by
elevated promontory below
the Habsburgs at the Battle
of Morgarten (1315). There after
Seelisberg, on the west side
of the lake, is Rütli Meadow
they were known as Schwyzers,
and by the late 1400s, the
al liance between the cantons
1711 houses the Forum der
Swiss had adopted the
name Schwyzerland.
of Schwyz, Unterwalden and
Schweizer Geschichte, a
The Bundesbriefmuseum
museum of daily life.
Uri was sworn in 1291 (p57).
(Museum of the Swiss A former granary dating from (Bergwiese Rütli), where the
The village of Seedorf, at
Charters) in Schwyz preserves Bundesbriefmuseum the southern extremity of the
a num-ber of important " ⌂ Bahnhofstrasse 20 Urnersee, has a picturesque
historical documents. The # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun Gothic-Renaissance castle. It
most highly prized exhibit is ∑ bundesbrief.ch was built in 1556–60 and now
the Charter of Confederation, houses a small geological
written on parchment and Ital-Reding-Haus museum. Flüelen, nearby, is
stamped with the seals of the " ⌂ Rickenbachstrasse 14 the furthest port of call for
three Forest Cantons in 1291. # May–Oct: 2–5pm Tue–Fri, any boats that sail across
Schwyz’s Old Town contains 10am–4pm Sat & Sun the lake from Lucerne.
many 17th- and 18th-century ∑ irh.ch
buildings. Hauptplatz, the
central square, is dominated Forum der Schweizer
by the Baroque Pfarrkirche St Geschichte
Martin and the Rathaus, the ⌂ Zeughausstrasse 5
17th-century town hall whose § 058 466 80 11 # 10am–
façade features a depiction of 5pm Tue–Sun
the Battle of Morgarten paint-
ed in 1891. The Ital-Reding-
Haus, a mansion built in 1609, 13
contains a suite of rooms with
17th- and 18th-century Urnersee
furnishings and decoration. ! E4 @ £ n Brunnen,
Nearby is Haus Bethlehem, a Bahnhofstrasse 15; www.
wooden house built in 1287.
brunnentourismus.ch
The stunningly beautiful
Urnersee forms the south-
eastern arm of Lake Lucerne.
Did You Know? Surrounded on all sides by
high, steep-sided mountains,
Oscar-winning
filmmaker Xavier
Koller was born
in Schwyz. Rathausplatz in the
centre of Altdorf, in which
stands the Telldenkmal
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About 3 km (2 miles) north of
Flüelen is the Tellsplate, a flat WILLIAM TELL
rock. According to legend, this Switzerland’s national hero, or perhaps
is where William Tell made his just a myth? Revisionist historians say
leap to freedom during his William Tell (right) was invented more
journey across Lake Lucerne, than a century after he allegedly freed
on his way to impris on ment his son, and his emerging country,
at Küssnacht. Near the rock from Habsburg feudal lords
stands the Tellska pelle, a 16th- by shooting the evil bailiff
century chapel remodelled in Hermann Gessler in 1307.
the 19th century. This emblem atic act
of courage and
resistance has
14 echoed down the ages
and across the globe, thanks in
Bürglen part to Hollywood, Friedreich von
Schiller’s play and Gioachino Rossini’s
! E4 @ ∑ uri.info opera. If, as now suggested, it was all
This small town at the mouth a ploy designed to forge a sense of
of the Schächen valley is national unity, it worked.
reputed to be the birthplace
of William Tell, hero of Swiss
legend. The sup posed site chron icles at the fascinating 15
of his house is marked by Tell Museum. Also of interest
a chapel, built in 1582. It is in Bürglen are a 17th-century Altdorf
decorated with frescoes illus- wooden tavern, the Adler Inn, ! E4 @ £ n Tellspielhaus;
trating how Tell killed a which serves local beers, and www.uri.info
Habsburg duke, an early Baroque church with
triggering confederacy. a Romanesque tower. Altdorf is reputed to be the
The legend of William town where William Tell shot
Tell and the place it Tell Museum an apple from his son’s head.
occupies in Swiss "' ⌂ Postplatz # May, The Telldenkmal, a 19th-
culture are illustrated Jun, Sep & Oct: 10–11:30am & century statue of Tell and his
through over 600 1:30–5pm daily; Jul & Aug: son, stands on Rathausplatz,
years’ worth of 9:30am–5pm daily and plays of the story are
paintings and ∑ tellmuseum.ch regularly performed.



































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16 Locarno, there is a performing line Contrada Mag giore. Piazza
arts school, founded by the
San Pietro is dominated by the
Centovalli famous Swiss clown Dimitri. 16th-century Chiesa dei Santi
Nearby Intragna has a Baroque Pietro e Paolo, which has an
! E5 n Intragna; 091 780 church. Palagnedra has a small altar piece painted by Giovanni
75 00
Gothic church decorated with Serodine, a pupil of Caravaggio.
The stunning Centovalli 15th-century frescoes. Also notable are the Collegio
(Hundred Valleys) is so named Centovalli Railway Papio, which has a pretty
for the many side valleys that
Renaissance arcaded court-
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino a spectacularly scenic route 17 The Museo Comunale d’Arte
yard, and Santa Maria della
⌂ Via Franzoni 1, Locarno
cut into it. The Centovalli
∑ centovalli.ch
Misericordia, a church with col-
Railway, from Locarno to
ourful 15th-century frescoes.
Domodossola in Italy, takes
up the Centovalli. On this
Moderna, in a 16th-century
palazzo, contains work by
journey of about 40 km
Ascona
(25 miles), the train crosses
artists who flocked to the
79 bridges or viaducts over
town, including Paul Klee.
! E6 n Via B Papio 5, www.
Piazza Motta, a ped estrianized
deep canyons and passes
ascona-locarno.com
lakefront promen ade, is home
through 24 tunnels. The
A small fishing village for
to cafés and restaurants.
first part of the journey leads
many centuries, Ascona
along the vineyard-covered
developed in the early 20th
Val Pedemonte and then
wends its way through rugged
fashionable health resort,
country side and deep forests
Valle Verzasca
attracting writers, painters
full of chestnut trees.
The train stops at several
and composers. Nearby Monte
! E5 n Via ai Giardini,
villages along the route. At century, when it became a 18
Verita (Hill of Truth) was
Tenero; www.ascona-
Verscio, 4 km (2.5 miles) from established as a progressive locarno.com
colony around the same time,
attracting some of Europe’s Washed by the emerald
leading thinkers, artists, waters of the River Verzasca,
1995 revolutionaries and writers. this is an excep tion ally scenic
Ascona’s exquisite Old Town
valley lying north of Locarno.
(Centro Storico) is a maze of A gigantic dam, the Contra
The year Swiss clown narrow cobbled streets, with Dam, near the mouth of the
Dimitri was inducted small craft shops and art valley has created the Lago di
into the International galleries. Many of the most Vogorno, a large artificial lake.
Clown Hall of Fame. picturesque of Ascona’s histor ic The valley is lined with
buildings, the oldest of which villages, whose stone houses
date from the 14th century, cling to the mountainsides.
Vogorno has a small church
decorated with Byzantine
frescoes. Near Lavertezzo,
the river is spanned by the
INSIDER TIP
Bungee Jump
James Bond did it, so
they call the 220 m-
(722 ft-) bungee jump
from the Contra Dam
“the 007”. The tallest
bungee in the world,
you can jump at night,
or even go backwards.
The handsome Italian-style
buildings and cobbled streets
of Ascona’s Old Town
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EAT
The Ponte dei Salti, the buildings and churches, and
medieval double-arched rugged stone houses. At
bridge near Lavertezzo Maggia, the largest village Grottos are shady,
in the valley, you’ll find the secluded outdoor
15th-century Chiesa Santa restaurants with stone
Ponte dei Salti, a medieval Maria delle Grazie. The exte- tables, typical of Ticino.
double-arched bridge. A rior is unremarkable but the
modern art trail, running interior is decorated with
for 4 km (2.5 miles) between dazzling 16th- and 17th- Grotto San Michele
Brione and Lavertezzo, is century frescoes. A wide choice, handy
lined with works by 34 Italian, Past Giumaglio, where there for the castle.
Swiss and German sculptors. are dramatic waterfalls, the ! E5 ⌂ Salita al
At Brione-Verzasca is a road leads further up the valley Castell, Bellinzona
church with origins that go to Cevio. A notable feature of ∑  castelgrande.ch
back to the 13th century. Its this village is the 17th-century 
façade is decorated with a Palazzo Pretorio, its façade
painting of St Christopher, featuring the coats of arms of Grotto Canvett
and the interior features the bailiffs who successively
15th-century frescoes. occupied the building. Nearby The epitome of
stands the Palazzo Franzoni tradition.
(1630), which houses a ! E5 ⌂ Cà d’Varénzin 6,
Semione
19 museum of regional history. §  91 870 21 21
The hamlet of Mogno
Valle Maggia contains the serenely beauti- 
ful Chiesa di San Giovanni
! E5 n www.valle Battista. Designed by the
maggia.ch Grotto Cavicc
Ticinese architect Mario Botta Beloved of writer
This deep valley runs for and completed in 1996, this Hermann Hesse.
about 50 km (30 miles) extraordinary church is built of
northwest of Ascona up to local stone. The interior is lined ! E5 ⌂ Via Canvetti,
Cevio. At its lower levels, the with white marble and grey Montagnola
valley is wide, though as it granite arranged in stripes ∑  grottocavicc.ch
ascends it becomes increas- and chequer patterns. The 
ingly rugged, with forests of light pouring in through the
pine and larch. The valley is translucent ceiling only
also dotted with historical enhances the effect.
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under a huge hydroelectric church with Gothic frescoes.
plant. All the houses are made Just north of Biasca lies
of grey stone, and massive Malvaglia. The 16th- to 17th-
boulders have been adapted century church here has a
into shel ters for animals and Romanesque tower and
humans alike. These structures, its façade features a large
which are sometimes built into painting of St Christopher.
the rock, are called sprügh. Negrentino is notable for its
In such precipitous terrain,
early Romanesque church of
EXPERIENCE Central Switzerland and Ticino 20 The village of Foroglio, 111 m (365 ft). The waterfall is is decorated with stunning
water falls abound. The most
St Ambrose, whose tall square
impressive in all Ticino is the
belfry tower can be seen from
afar. The interior of the church
Cascata di Foroglio which falls
an easy walk from the hamlet
frescoes dating from the 11th
to the 16th centuries. Lottigna
of Foroglio, which is on the
has an interesting museum of
Swiss postal bus route.
regional history (the Museo
Storico della Valle di Blenio).
Val Bavona, a popular
The villages higher up the
21
base for hiking
valley, such as Olivone, are
Valle di Blenio
good bases for mountain
excursions and hikes.
! E5 n Via Lavorceno,
Val Bavona
www.blenio.com
! E5 @ n Centro
This broad scenic valley,
Commerciale, Maggia; 91
Airolo
washed by the River Brenno,
753 18 85; www.ascona- Olivone; 91 872 14 87; 22
locarno.com leads up to the Lucomagno ! E5 n Casella Postale 145,
Pass (1,916 m/6,286 ft). The Airolo; 091 869 15 33;
Said to be the steepest and road up the valley and over www.airolo.ch
rockiest valley anywhere in the pass leads into the canton
the Alps, the beautiful Val of Graubünden. Val di Blenio Located just below the St
Bavona is very wild – almost lies in the heart of rural Ticino. Gotthard Pass, Airolo lies at
a world apart from the lush One of the sunniest spots in the point where the motorway
meadows and hills found the country, it has magnificent and railway line through the
elsewhere in the country. It scenery and is dotted with St Gotthard Tunnel emerge.
is deserted in winter and still picturesque villages. As it is bypassed by these
not connected to the Swiss Biasca, at the foot of the major routes, Airolo is a quiet
electricity grid, despite being valley, has a Romanesque town. With several hotels, it










Negrentino’s church with its
beautiful Romanesque and
late-Gothic frescoes
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Did You Know?

The old road up to the
St Gottard Pass has 37
bends, each with its
own name.



is a convenient base for
exploring the valley that
stretches out below. A plaque
in the town commemorates
the 177 people who died
during the tunnel’s construc­
tion in the 1880s.
Valle Leventina, below
Airolo, carries the motorway The old cobblestoned former secret military bunker
and main railway line that run Tremola road, leading up buried deep in the mountains.
from Zürich to Bellinzona and to the St Gotthard pass Two museums in one, it is
Lugano. The valley is dotted in part a natural history
with small towns and villages, museum and in part a military
worth exploring for their allowing for speeds of up to museum. Visitors delve
interesting historic churches. 200 km/h (124 mph) and hundreds of metres into the
Chiggiogna has a church with reducing the journey time mountains before taking the
15th­century frescoes, while from Zürich to Milan to two “Metro del Sasso”, an under­
Chironico has a 10th­century hours and 40 minutes. ground cable car to the
church with 14th­century The 19th­century hospice fortress. Inside, it is as if the
frescoes. The 12th­century on the St Gotthard pass houses 420 soldiers that once occu­
church in Giornico is one the Museo Nazionale del San pied it have only just left:
of the finest in Ticino. The Gottardo. The museum docu­ din ing hall, cannons, hospital,
interior is decorated with ments the history of the pass com munications and map
frescoes dating from 1478. and describes the flora and rooms are all as they were. The
fauna of this high Alpine region. bunker was fully operational
Marked trails lead up to from 1943 to 1998, as dozens
23 the summit of many of the of Swiss mountain redoubts
still are. In the natural history
surrounding peaks, including
St Gotthard Pass Pizzo Lucendro, and to moun­ part of the museum is an
tain terraces from which there ex hibi tion on climate, ecology
! E5 ∑ passosan
gottardo.ch are splendid views. and the min erals that make
up the Alps. Displays include
With the Reuss valley in the Museo Nazionale del enormous crystals – weighing
canton of Uri to the north, and San Gottardo over 1.5 tons – found near the
the Ticino valley to the south, " § 091 869 15 25 # Jun– St Gotthard Pass. Together,
the St Gotthard Pass lies at an Oct: 9am–6pm daily these two museums provide
altitude of 2,108 m (6,916 ft). It fascinating insight into the
is on the principal route from Swiss military mentality.
northern Europe to Italy and
has been used as a major 24 "
Alpine pass for over 700 years. Museo Sasso San INSIDER TIP
The pass is crossed by three Gottardo Wrap Up at
tunnels. In 1882 the Gotthard ! E4 ⌂ Passo del S the Museum
Rail Tunnel opened, but it was Gottardo, Airolo # Jun– Visiting the Museo
not until almost a century later Oct: 10:30am–3pm daily Sasso San Gottardo?
that a road tunnel followed, ∑ sasso-sangottardo.ch Then dress warmly.
in 1980. In 2016, Switzerland Even during summer,
inaugurated the world’s Located on the historic the under ground
longest rail tunnel here, mountain pass of the same tunnels and caverns
the 57­km­ (35­mile­) long name, the Museo Sasso are cold and damp.
Gotthard Base Tunnel, San Gottardo is set in a
233



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A DRIVING TOUR
LAKE SWITZERLAND
CENTRAL
AND TICINO
MAGGIORE Maggiore
Lake

CENTRAL SWITZERLAND AND TICINO A Driving Tour
Length 40 km (25 miles) Stopping-off points Ascona
and Locarno for a wide choice of restaurants Locator Map
For more detail see p200
Only the northern tip of this long, slender pre-alpine lake lies in
Switzerland, with the remaining portion curving southwards
into Italian territory. Some 60 km (40 miles) long and 6 km
(4 miles) wide, Lake Maggiore is hemmed in by mountains to
the north, south and west. Follow this route through beachy
resort towns, mountainside vineyards and terraced villages
that boast jaw-dropping views. Boats and hydrofoils cross the
lake from Ascona, Locarno and Brissago, carrying passengers
down to the resorts in its Italian section.

0 kilometres 5 N
Did You Know? 0 miles 5

According to legend,
Napoleon Bonaparte With its balmy climate
declared the lake and beautiful setting, Towering over Locarno,
a “wellspring of palm-fringed Ascona Santuario della Madonna
happiness”. (p230) is a Swiss slice del Sasso (p221) can be
climbed on foot or by funicular.
of la dolce vita.
The mountainside Cimetta Lago di
town of Ronco has 1,672 m (5,485 ) Vogorno Monti di Motti
stunning views
of the lake below. Tegna Gordola
Riazzino
Tenero
Intragna Minusio
Losone Locarno Cugnasco
Arcegno
Verdasio
Ascona Cadenazzo
Vira Quartino
L a ke San Magadino
Nazzaro
Ronco Maggior e FINISH
Isole di Piazzogna
Brissago
Brissago
START Gerra Rivera
Piodina
Caviano Monte Tamaro
1,960 m (6,430 )
Indemini Mezzovico
Subtropical
Brissago is gardens flourish
renowned for its on the Isole di Tenero, at the
botanical gardens. Brissago, once A labyrinth of northern tip of the
Pagliacci composer a bohemian narrow alleys, the lake, has good
Ruggero haven. picturesque village camping grounds
Leoncavallo of Vira is one of the and a positively
(1857–1919) was ports of call for Caribbean beach.
buried here. boats cruising
around the lake.
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0 kilometres 5 N
0 miles 5









Cimetta Lago di
1,672 m (5,485 ) Vogorno Monti di Motti
Tegna Gordola
Riazzino
Tenero
Intragna Minusio
Losone Locarno Cugnasco
Arcegno
Verdasio
Ascona Cadenazzo
Vira Quartino
L a ke San Magadino
Nazzaro
Ronco Maggior e
Isole di Piazzogna
Brissago
Brissago
Gerra Rivera
Piodina
Caviano Monte Tamaro
1,960 m (6,430 )
Indemini Mezzovico




The lofty Santuario della
Madonna del Sasso rising
from the town of Locarno
235



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Amsteg
Gadmen
BERN
Fuhren Susten Meien Gurtnellen
Geissholz Pass
Hopflauenen Meienreuss
Innertkirchen Schneestock Pass Wassen
3,503 m (11,493 ft)
Steingletscher
Tierbeg
3,445 m (11,302 ft) URI
Göschenen
Guttannen Triftgletscher
Schneestock
3,608 m (11,837 ft)
Göscheneralpsee
Rhone- Andermatt
gletscher
Hospental
Handeggfall
Hühnertal- Gotthard
gletscher Realp Tunnel
Grimsel
Pass
Grimselsee Furka
Pass
Oberwald
V AL AIS





The town of Hospental 0 kilometres 6 N
dwarfed by snowcapped 0 miles 6
peaks in the distance
236



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A DRIVING TOUR
THREE PASSES SWITZERLAND
CENTRAL
AND TICINO
Three Passes
Length 120 km (75 miles) Stopping-off points Andermatt
and Göschenen for small hotels and restaurants

The circular route over the Uri Alps traverses some of the most Locator Map
spectacular alpine scenery in Switzerland. On the route are three For more detail see p200
mountain passes – the Susten Pass, Grimsel Pass and Furka Pass –
each of which marks cantonal borders. A feat of 19th-century
engineering, the road twists and turns, makes tightly winding
ascents and descents, crosses bridges over dramatically plunging
valleys, and passes through tunnels cut into the rock. All along the
route are spectacular views of snow-capped mountains, majestic
glaciers and beautiful mountain lakes.
A skiing resort in
winter and hiking
centre in summer,
The Susten Pass A bridge on the Andermatt lies in
lies on the border Meienreuss Pass the heart of the St
between the spans a deep Gotthard massif.
cantons of Bern gorge in the
and Uri. Meien valley.
Amsteg
Gadmen
BERN
Fuhren Susten Meien Gurtnellen
Geissholz Pass
Hopflauenen Meienreuss
Innertkirchen Schneestock Pass Wassen
3,503 m (11,493 ft)
Steingletscher
Tierbeg
3,445 m (11,302 ft) URI
Göschenen
Guttannen Triftgletscher
Schneestock
3,608 m (11,837 ft)
Göscheneralpsee
Rhone- START Andermatt
gletscher
FINISH Hospental
Handeggfall
Hühnertal- Gotthard
gletscher Realp Tunnel
Grimsel
Pass
Grimselsee Furka
Pass
Innertkirchen Hospental lies at the
joins routes down convergence of roads
from the passes Oberwald from the north, south
with the road V AL AIS and west.
heading north.
At an altitude of 2,165 m
(7,103 ft), Grimsel Pass Did You Know?
marks the border Furka Pass lies
between the cantons of between the Built in the 1860s, At Hospental stand the
Bern and Valais. Bernese and the hairpin turns of
Pennine Alps. Furkastrasse offer ruins of the 13th-
spectacular views century castle that
once guarded the
0 kilometres 6 N round each corner. cross roads.
0 miles 6
237

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The verdant rolling hills of Appenzell





















EASTERN

SWITZERLAND
AND GRAUBÜNDEN




Traversed by the Rhine, which flows through the
Bodensee, eastern Switzerland is a relatively low-
lying region of lush pastures and rural outposts,
rising up into the high Alps at its most southerly
extent. Known as Rhaetia in medieval times, much
of the eastern part of Switzerland evolved strong
German connections, in both trade and culture,
while to the south, the rugged terrain increasingly
cut communities off from would-be invaders.
As the Swiss Confederation spread its reach,
most of the cantons to the east were partial
members or subject territories, but following
the defeat of Napoleon in 1815, two cantons
were given full status: St Gallen and Graubünden.
A university town, St Gallen has been a seat of
learning since 747 when a Benedictine monastery
was founded, requiring the contemplative study of
books and the presence of a library. That library is
now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, housing some
170,000 documents. Graubünden joined the Swiss
Confederate in 1803, but it was in 1864 that it
really came into its own – a hotelier in St Moritz
lured summer residents back to stay for free that
winter, and with this gesture, Swiss Alpine tourism
was born. Home to some of the country’s best ski
slopes and greatest resorts, Graubünden is now
a major centre for winter sports, and half of its
population is involved in the tourist industry.
239



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Stockach Stockach
Bonndorf Bonndorf Tengen Tengen
Ravensburg
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 15 15 N N Ravensburg
Uberlingen Uberlingen
0 miles 0 miles 15 15 Stuhlingen Stuhlingen Singen Singen Radolfzell Radolfzell
SCHAFFHA
SCHAFFHAUSENUSEN
GERMAN
Markdorf Markdorf GERMAN YY Wangen im
Wangen im
RHEINFALL Rhein Konstanz Konstanz Allgäu Allgäu
RHEINFALL Rhein
Friedrichshafen
Friedrichshafen
Kreuzlingen
Waldshut Waldshut STEIN AM Kreuzlingen
STEIN AM
BODENSEE
RHEIN
Rheinfelden
Rheinfelden RHEIN THURGAU BODENSEE
THURGAU
EASTERN EASTERN
SWITZERLAND
Thur Thur Weinfelden Romanshorn Lindau Lindau SWITZERLAND
Weinfelden Romanshorn
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
FRAUENFELD AND GRAUBÜNDEN
FRAUENFELD
Arbon Arbon Bregenz Bregenz
Winterthur
Sissach Sissach Baden Baden Winterthur Wil Wil Rorschach Rorschach St Gallen-Alt St Gallen-Altenrheinenrhein
Airport
Airport
Zürich Zürich
ST GALLEN
International Airport NORTHERN
International Airport NORTHERN Gossau Gossau ST GALLEN
SWITZERLAND
Aarau Aarau SWITZERLAND Dornbirn Dornbirn
TOGGENBURG
Zürich Zürich p172 p172 TOGGENBURG Herisau Herisau Altstatten Altstatten
Gais Gais
Lichtensteig Riezlern Riezlern
Lichtensteig
APPENZELL
Olten Olten APPENZELL Au Au
Urnäsch Urnäsch Rhein Rhein
Zurichsee Zurichsee Wattwil Wattwil Damüls Damüls
Rankweil Rankweil
EASTERN RAPPERSWIL Uznach Uznach Säntis Säntis Feldkirch Warth Warth
2,504 m (8,215 ft)
2,504 m (8,215 ft) Feldkirch
RAPPERSWIL
Nesslau
SWITZERLAND S ANK T Nesslau Wildhaus
Wildhaus
S ANK T
AND GRAUBÜNDEN Zug Zug GALLEN Buchs Vaduz Vaduz Bludenz Bludenz
GALLEN Buchs
Einsiedeln Einsiedeln Weesen Weesen Walenstadt Walenstadt Landeck Landeck
LIECHTEN-
Must Sees LIECHTEN-
WALENSEE
Näfels Näfels WALENSEE STEIN STEIN AUS AUS TRIATRIA
1 Schaffhausen
2 St Gallen GLARUS GLARUS Sargans Sargans
CENTRAL
CENTRAL
MAIENFELD
3 Chur SWITZERLAND MAIENFELD Garfrescha Garfrescha
SWITZERLAND
BAD RAGAZ
4 Swiss National Park AND TICINO BAD RAGAZ
AND TICINO
GLARUS
Experience More p198 p198 GLARUS Piz Sardona Piz Sardona Tamina Tamina Jenaz Jenaz
3,057 m (10,030 ft)
5 Rheinfall Altdorf Altdorf Linthal Linthal 3,057 m (10,030 ft) Martina Martina
2,845 m (9,334 ft) r e t t a g r u p p e
KLOSTERS
6 Frauenfeld KLOSTERS S i l v r e t t a g r u p p e
7 Bodensee Rhein Rhein CHUR CHUR Weissfluhgip Weissfluhgipfelfel S i l v Scuol Scuol
2,845 m (9,334 ft)
8 Stein am Rhein Piz Russein Piz Russein Flims Flims DAVOS DAVOS
3,611 m (11,847 ft)
Weisshorn
9 Appenzell 3,611 m (11,847 ft) Breil Breil Ilanz 2,650 m (8,694 ft) Weisshorn Ardez Ardez
2,650 m (8,694 ft)
Ilanz
10 Toggenburg AROSA AROSA Susch Susch ENGADINE
ENGADINE
11 Rapperswil Disentis Disentis Vorderrhein Lenzerheide VALLEY VALLEY
Vorderrhein
Lenzerheide
12 Walensee Thusis Thusis GR AUBÜNDEN Zernez Zernez
GR AUBÜNDEN
13 Bad Ragaz Sedrun Sedrun MÜSTAIR MÜSTAIR
14 Maienfeld Vals-Platz Vals-Platz ZILLIS ZILLIS Zuoz Zuoz SWISS SWISS
NATIONAL PARK
15 Davos Andermatt Andermatt Savognin Savognin Bergün NATIONAL PARK Valchava Valchava
Bergün
16 Arosa Hinterrhein Hinterrhein Inn Inn
17 Engadine Valley Airolo Airolo Splügen Splügen Samedan Samedan Livigno Livigno
18 Müstair SAN BERNARDINO ST MORITZ Bormio Bormio
SAN BERNARDINO
ST MORITZ PONTRESINA
19 Pontresina PASS PASS Auererrhein Auererrhein Silvaplana Silvaplana PONTRESINA
San
San
20 Bernina Pass Bernardino Bernardino SILS SILS
BERNINA PASS
21 Val Bregaglia Malvaglia Malvaglia MESOCCO Maloja Pass Maloja Pass BERNINA PASS
MESOCCO
22 St Moritz VAL BREGAGLIA Vicosoprano Piz Bernina Piz Bernina
VAL BREGAGLIA
4,049 m (13,284 ft)
4,049 m (13,284 ft)
Vicosoprano
23 Sils Biasca Biasca Soazza Soazza Frontale Frontale
POSCHIAVO
24 Zillis Cevio Cevio Chiavenna Chiavenna Stampa POSCHIAVO
Stampa
25 San Bernardino Pass Someo Someo Ponte di Legno
Ponte di Legno
26 Glarus IT AL IT AL YY Brusio Brusio
27 Klosters Bellinzona Bellinzona San Vittore San Vittore Tirano Tirano
28 Poschiavo Sondrio Sondrio
29 Mesocco Locarno Locarno Ticino Ticino Edolo Edolo

Marbegno Marbegno
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Stockach Stockach
Bonndorf Bonndorf Tengen Tengen
Ravensburg
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 15 15 N N Ravensburg
Uberlingen
Uberlingen
0 miles 0 miles 15 15 Stuhlingen Stuhlingen Singen Singen Radolfzell Radolfzell
SCHAFFHA
SCHAFFHAUSENUSEN
GERMAN
Markdorf Markdorf GERMAN YY Wangen im
Wangen im
RHEINFALL Rhein Konstanz Konstanz Allgäu Allgäu
RHEINFALL Rhein
Friedrichshafen
Friedrichshafen
Kreuzlingen
Waldshut Waldshut STEIN AM Kreuzlingen
STEIN AM
BODENSEE
RHEIN
Rheinfelden Rheinfelden RHEIN THURGAU BODENSEE
THURGAU
EASTERN EASTERN
SWITZERLAND
Thur Thur Weinfelden Romanshorn Lindau Lindau SWITZERLAND
Weinfelden Romanshorn
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
FRAUENFELD AND GRAUBÜNDEN
FRAUENFELD
Arbon Arbon Bregenz Bregenz
Winterthur
Sissach Sissach Baden Baden Winterthur Wil Wil Rorschach Rorschach St Gallen-Alt St Gallen-Altenrheinenrhein
Airport
Airport
Zürich Zürich
International Airport NORTHERN
ST GALLEN
International Airport NORTHERN Gossau Gossau ST GALLEN
SWITZERLAND
Aarau Aarau SWITZERLAND Dornbirn Dornbirn
TOGGENBURG
Zürich Zürich p172 p172 TOGGENBURG Herisau Herisau Altstatten Altstatten
Gais Gais
Lichtensteig
Lichtensteig Riezlern Riezlern
APPENZELL
Olten Olten APPENZELL Au Au
Urnäsch Urnäsch Rhein Rhein
Zurichsee Zurichsee Wattwil Wattwil Damüls Damüls
Rankweil Rankweil
Säntis Säntis Warth Warth
2,504 m (8,215 ft)
RAPPERSWIL
RAPPERSWIL Uznach Uznach Nesslau Nesslau 2,504 m (8,215 ft) Feldkirch Feldkirch
Wildhaus Wildhaus
S ANK T
Zug Zug S ANK T
GALLEN Buchs Vaduz Vaduz Bludenz Bludenz
GALLEN Buchs
Einsiedeln Einsiedeln Weesen Weesen Walenstadt Walenstadt LIECHTEN- Landeck Landeck
LIECHTEN-
WALENSEE
Näfels Näfels WALENSEE STEIN STEIN AUS AUS TRIATRIA
Sargans Sargans
CENTRAL
CENTRAL GLARUS GLARUS MAIENFELD Garfrescha Garfrescha
MAIENFELD
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND BAD RAGAZ
BAD RAGAZ
AND TICINO
AND TICINO
GLARUS
p198 p198 GLARUS
Piz Sardona Piz Sardona Tamina Tamina Jenaz Jenaz
3,057 m (10,030 ft)
Linthal Linthal 3,057 m (10,030 ft) Martina Martina
S i l v r e t t a g r u p p e
KLOSTERS
Altdorf Altdorf KLOSTERS
Rhein Rhein CHUR Weissfluhgip 2,845 m (9,334 ft) r e t t a g r u p p e Scuol Scuol
Weissfluhgipfelfel
CHUR
S i l v
2,845 m (9,334 ft)
Piz Russein Piz Russein Flims Flims DAVOS DAVOS
3,611 m (11,847 ft) Weisshorn Weisshorn Ardez Ardez
3,611 m (11,847 ft)
Breil Breil 2,650 m (8,694 ft)
2,650 m (8,694 ft)
Ilanz Ilanz AROSA AROSA
ENGADINE
Susch Susch ENGADINE
VALLEY
VALLEY
Vorderrhein Vorderrhein
Lenzerheide
Disentis Disentis Lenzerheide
Thusis
Thusis
GR AUBÜNDEN Zernez Zernez
GR AUBÜNDEN
Sedrun Sedrun MÜSTAIR MÜSTAIR
ZILLIS ZILLIS SWISS SWISS
Vals-Platz Vals-Platz
NATIONAL PARK
Zuoz
Andermatt Andermatt Savognin Savognin Bergün Zuoz NATIONAL PARK Valchava
Bergün
Valchava
Hinterrhein Hinterrhein Inn Inn
Airolo Airolo Splügen Splügen Samedan Samedan Livigno Livigno
SAN BERNARDINO ST MORITZ Bormio Bormio
SAN BERNARDINO
ST MORITZ PONTRESINA
PASS PASS Auererrhein Auererrhein PONTRESINA
San San Silvaplana Silvaplana
Bernardino Bernardino SILS SILS
BERNINA PASS
Malvaglia Malvaglia BERNINA PASS
MESOCCO
MESOCCO Maloja Pass Maloja Pass Piz Bernina Piz Bernina
VAL BREGAGLIA
VAL BREGAGLIA 4,049 m (13,284 ft)
4,049 m (13,284 ft)
Vicosoprano
Biasca Biasca Soazza Soazza Vicosoprano Frontale Frontale
Cevio Cevio Stampa Stampa POSCHIAVO
POSCHIAVO
Chiavenna Chiavenna
Someo Someo
Ponte di Legno
Ponte di Legno
IT AL IT AL YY Brusio Brusio
San Vittore San Vittore
Bellinzona Bellinzona Tirano Tirano
Ticino Ticino Sondrio Sondrio Edolo Edolo
Locarno Locarno
Marbegno Marbegno
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1
SCHAFFHAUSEN



! E2 ⌂ 46 km (29 miles) N of Zurich £ @ n Herrenacker 15;
schaffhauserland.ch
Capital of the canton of the same name, the picturesque medieval
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
town of Schaffhausen is set on the north bank of the Rhine, upriver
from the spectacular cataracts known as the Rheinfall.

Thanks to its location at the point where the Mohrenbrunnen, with a statue of a Moorish
falls forced ships to unload their cargoes, the king. A short walk to the southeast stands
town was an important centre of trade from the austere Romanesque Münster, part of an
the early Middle Ages. The streets of its Altstadt 11th-century Benedictine abbey. The adjoining
(Old Town) are lined with Gothic, Renaissance, mon astery is now home to a museum with
Baroque and Rococo buildings, such as the pre his toric finds and Swiss art. The abbey
Haus zum Ritter, boasting frescoed façades clois ters hold the Schillerglocke, whose sound
and oriel windows. At the centre of its his toric inspired German poet Friedrich Schiller to write
core lies Fronwagplatz, a square with two the “Song of the Bell”. Above the town to the
16th-century fountains, the Metzgerbrunnen, east lies the Munot, whose keep offers fine
topped by a statue of a mercenary, and the views of the town, the river and the countryside.



Statue
depicting a
soldier at
the Platz











The circular keep of the 16th-century
Munot, now the symbol of Schaffhausen

















The Haus zum Ritter, with a façade covered in
Renaissance frescoes dating from 1568–70
242



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Must See


Did You Know?
Schaffhausen has 171
oriel windows – more
than any other Swiss
town – built as
status symbols.






















































The town and the
11th-century Kirche
St Johann, seen from
the Munot fortress
243



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EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden











The beautiful Rococco
reading hall of St Gallen
Abbey’s Stiftsbibliothek

library, the Stiftsbibliothek,
2 \-= was spared. The main room,
ST GALLEN designed by Peter Thumb in
1758–67, is a stunning Baroque
Rococo touches. The wood en
! F3 ⌂ 63 km (39 miles) E of Zürich n Bankgasse 9; www. master piece, with elaborate
stgallen-bodensee.ch floor was intricately inlaid by
Gabriel Loser, and the ceiling
The origins of St Gallen, Eastern Switzerland’s largest is decorated with stucco work
town, go back to 612, when Gallus, an Irish monk, by Johann Georg and Mathias
chose the spot for his hermitage. A Benedictine abbey Gigl and trompe l’oeil paint-
was founded here in 747 and soon became a centre of ings by Josef Wannenmacher. Universität St. Gallen Bierflaschen Museum
learning and culture; today, the abbey is a UNESCO The library contains more 750 m (800 yd) BÖCKLINSTR. S T. JAKOBSTR. 250 m (270 yd) Historisches und
than 170,000 books and docu-
World Heritage Site. By the 19th century, St Gallen ments, including an important NOTKERSTR. Völkerkundemuseum
was renowned for its textile industry. While the city’s collec tion of Irish manuscripts HÖH E N W E G TIGERBERGSTR. BLUMENAUSTRASSE Stadtpark
focal point is its magnificent cathedral, built in 1847, dating from the 8th to the TIGERBERGSTR. MÜLLER-FR I EDB E R G S T R ASSE M U S E U M S T R A S S E Natur-und
it also has a beautiful medieval centre. 11th cen turies, and rare works U N T E R E R G R A B E N Kunstmuseum
dating from the 8th century. D U F O U R S T R A S S E REDINGSTRASSE G OL IATHGA S S E SCHWERTGASSE T O R S T R A S S E
R O R S C H A C H E R S T R A S S E
history with the art of weaving, W I N K E L R I E D S T R A S S E METZGERGASSE KATHARINENG. Stadttheater
1 "' as well as intri cate embroidery HIDDEN GEM ENGELGAS S E BOHL Waaghaus
Textilmuseum and exquisite hand made lace. Bierflaschen Z W I N G L I S T R A S S E Kantonsschul- STERNACKERSTR.
Local patterns and prod ucts, Museum Marktplatz park
⌂ Vadianstrasse 2 SPITALG. K A NT I W EG SÄGEGÄSSLE
HINTERE BAHNHOFSTRASSE
# 10am–5pm daily and the imple ments that were A must-visit for any GASSE MARKT- KUGELGASSE BRÜHLGA SSE L Ä M M L I S B R U N N E N S T R A S S E
∑ textilmuseum.ch devised to produce them, are beer lover, Switzerland’s B A H N H O F S T R A S S E KONKOR D IASTR. IN
also shown. first beer bottle museum R O S E N B E R G S T R A S S E N E UG A S S E FEUERG. BAREN-
B U R G G R A B E N
POSTSTRASSE
Reflecting St Gallen’s role as a (www. schuetzen T E LL ST R AS SE HINTERE POSTSTRASSE PLATZ SPISERGASSE
S P E IC HERSTR.
centre of the European textiles garten.ch) features OBERER G R ABEN St Laurenzenkirche L I N S HAFNERST R . E B Ü H L S T R A S S E
industry, this museum is filled more than 2,000 bottles BRUNNEGG- M U LTE RG AS SE ZEUGHAUSG.
STR.
with a com prehensive array of 2 " from over 260 Swiss SCHÜTZENGASSE SCHMIEDGASSE R OTACHSTR .
pieces from Switzerland and Stiftsbibliothek breweries – all empty. Textilmuseum GALLUSSTR. Klosterhof
abroad, including antique ⌂ Klosterhof 6d # 10am– The well-curated St Gallen MERKURSTR. BANKG. St Gallen M OO S B R U G G S T R A SSE W I L D E G G S T R A S S E
fabrics from Coptic graves in 5pm daily ∑ stibi.ch exhibits are arranged Station BAHNHOF W E B E R G A S S E Abbey OBERE WILDEGGST RASSE
Egypt. The well-presented by region forming an PLATZ S T. L E O N H A R D - S T R A S S E V A D I A N S T R A S S E ST. GEORG E NSTRASSE
displays examine social ques- Although most of the abbey impressive display of O B E RE R GR A B E N GALLUS- Stiftsbibliothek SCHÄFLISBERGSTR.
tions through design and was destroyed during the Swiss beer history. FR O NGARTENSTR. PLATZ Mühlegg
fashion, connecting Swiss Reformation, its important K O R N H A U S S T R . RAIFFEISEN- WALLSTRAS S E Talstation ST. GEORGENSTR. 0 metres 200 N
PLATZ
F EL S EN ST R A SS E
WASSERGASSE
244 Kunst Halle Sankt Gallen G A R T E N S T R A S S E BE R N EG G STR. 0 yards 200
400 m (440 yd)
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Must See
Books printed after 1900 may long-standing watch maker’s
be bor rowed, but anything shop with a fascinating col-
older can only be read onsite lection of musi cal boxes.
in the reading rooms and region of St Gallen. As well
as ar chae ological pieces, there
4 are documents, memen tos
3 St Laurenzenkirche and reconstructions of domes-
tic life from various periods,
Marktplatz going back as far as prehistory.
Once the town’s main market ⌂ Marktgasse § 071 222 67 High lights include a scale
92 # 9:30–11:30am &
square, Marktplatz lies on the 2–4pm Mon, 9:30am–4pm recon struction of St Gallen’s
northern side of the old town. Tue–Sat (to 6pm Tue–Fri abbey and a model of the city
The square is surrounded by in summer) as it was in the 17th century.
fine 17th- and 18th-century The ethno graphic collection
houses with intricately painted This church was originally part also has Asian, African and
façades or decorated with of the abbey complex. During South American artifacts.
delicate relief carving. Many the 16th century it became a
also have attractive oriel centre of the Reformation in
windows, a feature typical of St Gallen. The building’s pres-
St Gallen’s architecture. ent Neo-Gothic façade is the 6 "'-
On Marktgasse, the street result of remodel ling carried Kunst Halle Sankt
leading off the southern side out in the mid-19th century. Gallen
of Marktplatz, Labhart is a
⌂ Davidstrasse 40 # Noon–
6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat
5 "' & Sun ∑ kunsthallesankt
Did You Know? Historisches und gallen.ch
Völkerkundemuseum
This contemporary art hall
St Gallen’s university ⌂ Museumstrasse 50 sees itself as “a large small
was decorated by some # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun exhibitor”, and an experimental
of the most innovative ∑ hvmsg.ch space for artists to express
artists of the themselves freely. The exhib-
20th century. The mu seum of history and its change regularly, keeping
ethnology focuses on the pace with developments in the
people and past of the town world of contemporary art.

Universität St. Gallen Bierflaschen Museum
750 m (800 yd) BÖCKLINSTR. S T. JAKOBSTR. 250 m (270 yd) Historisches und
NOTKERSTR.
HÖH E N W E G TIGERBERGSTR. MÜLLER-FR I EDB E R G S T R ASSE BLUMENAUSTRASSE Völkerkundemuseum
TIGERBERGSTR.
M U S E U M S T R A S S E
Stadtpark
Natur-und
W I N K E L R I E D S T R A S S E
Kunstmuseum
D U F O U R S T R A S S E REDINGSTRASSE U N T E R E R G R A B E N G OL IATHGA S S E KATHARINENG. SCHWERTGASSE T O R S T R A S S E Kantonsschul- R O R S C H A C H E R S T R A S S E
Stadttheater
Waaghaus
Z W I N G L I S T R A S S E
METZGERGASSE
BOHL
ENGELGAS S E
STERNACKERSTR.
B A H N H O F S T R A S S E
R O S E N B E R G S T R A S S E Marktplatz MARKT- SPITALG. KUGELGASSE BRÜHLGA SSE park K A NT I W EG L Ä M M L I S B R U N N E N S T R A S S E SÄGEGÄSSLE
HINTERE BAHNHOFSTRASSE
KONKOR D IASTR. IN
GASSE
B U R G G R A B E N
T E LL ST R AS SE HINTERE POSTSTRASSE OBERER G R ABEN N E UG A S S E FEUERG. PLATZ ZEUGHAUSG. L I N S HAFNERST R . E B Ü H L S T R A S S E
BAREN-
POSTSTRASSE
SPISERGASSE
S P E IC HERSTR.
M U LTE RG AS SE
St Laurenzenkirche
BRUNNEGG-
SCHMIEDGASSE
STR.
W I L D E G G S T R A S S E
SCHÜTZENGASSE
St Gallen MERKURSTR. Textilmuseum BANKG. GALLUSSTR. Klosterhof M OO S B R U G G S T R A SSE R OTACHSTR .
S T. L E O N H A R D - S T R A S S E FR O NGARTENSTR. O B E RE R GR A B E N GALLUS- Stiftsbibliothek ST. GEORG E NSTRASSE
Station St Gallen OBERE WILDEGGST RASSE
BAHNHOF W E B E R G A S S E Abbey
PLATZ V A D I A N S T R A S S E
SCHÄFLISBERGSTR.
PLATZ
Mühlegg
Talstation ST. GEORGENSTR. 0 metres 200 N
G A R T E N S T R A S S E WALLSTRAS S E
RAIFFEISEN-
PLATZ
BE R N EG G STR.
Kunst Halle Sankt Gallen WASSERGASSE F EL S EN ST R A SS E 0 yards 200
K O R N H A U S S T R .
400 m (440 yd)
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7 "'
ST GALLEN 170,000


ABBEY documents in the
The number of
Abbey Library.
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
⌂ Klosterhof 6a # Abbey: 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm
Sat, 12:15–6:30pm Sun; Stiftsbibliothek: 10am–5pm daily;
lapidarium: Jun–Oct: 2–4pm Wed & Sat ∑ stibi.ch
Nestled in the centre of the historic town, this abbey
is one of the most spectacular examples of Baroque
architecture in Switzerland. As well as containing the
elegant cathedral, there is a fascinating lapidarium
with archaeological displays, as well as the magnificently
decorated Stiftsbibliothek (abbey library), the oldest The twin Baroque
bell towers
library in Switzerland.
The Benedictine abbey was established in 747 and was at the
height of its importance from the 9th to the 11th centuries.
The Romanesque church and monastery, built during that
period, have not survived, their only remains being the crypt
containing the tombs of the abbots. The present Baroque
cathedral and monastery, designed by master architect
Johann Michael Beer von Bildstein, were
completed in 1767. The interior dec­
oration was executed by the
foremost artists of the day.
Such is the impor tance of
this sight, with its works
of art and its renowned
library (p244), that it was
made a World Heritage
Site in 1983.

St Gallen Cathedral,
with its Baroque
architecture
















High altar
Frescoes by Josef
Wannenmacher adorning
the cathedral ceiling
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Must See















The twin bell towers
of St Gallen Cathedral
on a sunny day

The 16 Baroque
Josef Wannenmacher confessionals are
ceiling frescoes crowned with
medallions.




















The late Baroque
pulpit is decorated
with figures of
the Evangelists
and angels.
Main entrance
to the stunning
Stiftsbibliothek

The Baroque INSIDER TIP
stalls, made of Look Up
walnut, are by Ornate stuccowork is
Joseph Anton
Two thrones, Feuchtmayer. everywhere you look
decorated by the in the cathedral, but
Dirr brothers, don’t neglect to cast
stand among the your gaze upwards:
choir stalls. the ceiling is decorated
with dramatic and
colourful frescoes by
Josef Wannenmacher.

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including medieval reliquaries,
3 -= are also showcased. Other
CHUR exhib its include rooms of
17th-century furnish ings and
other domestic ob jects. The
culture and folk arts of the
! F4 ⌂ 95 km (59 miles) SE of Zürich n Bahnhofplatz 3;
www.churtourismus.ch Graubünden region from
the 19th century through
Located at the head of the Rhine valley, Chur lies at to the present day are also
the crossroads of ancient trade routes that linked the attractively documented.
Al pine passes to the south and the Bodensee to the
north. Settled for over 5,000 years, today Chur calls
itself “the oldest Swiss city”. The city prospered under 2
the rule of prince-bishops from the 12th to the 16th Bischöflicher Hof
centuries. Following the Reformation, Chur passed
into secular rule, becoming the capital of the canton ⌂ Hofplatz
of Graubünden in 1803. The narrow streets and squares The complex of buildings set
of the Old Town are quiet and pleasant to explore. on the terrace that rises to the
east of the Old Town make up
the oldest seated bishopric
the information available in north of the Alps. Standing
1 "'= English is some times lacking, next to the cathedral, the bish-
Rätisches Museum the dis plays at this museum op’s palace was founded in
neatly illustrate the history of the 6th century on the site
⌂ Haus Buol, Hofstrasse 1 Chur and its environs, with of a Roman fort. The palace
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
∑ raetischesmuseum.gr.ch artifacts from pre historic was extended on sev eral
times to the 19th century. occa sions, and its thick walls
Built in 1675 by patrician Among the exhibits are reflect the ruling bishops’ need
Baron von Buol Strassberg archaeological finds from the for defence. The palace’s
und Rieyberg, this Baroque time of the Rhaetians – Alpine present appearance is mainly
patrician house in a quiet tribes who colonized the region the result of remod el ling in
courtyard behind Kirche in around 3000 BC –and items the 18th and 19th centuries.
St Martin is now home to from Graubünden’s Roman Since it is still the residence
this compre hensive local period. Precious pieces from of the bishops of Chur, it is
history museum. Although the cathedral treasury, not open to visitors.
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Must See











UNDERGROUND
CHUR
Subterranean remains
of the city’s 5th-century
Kirche St Stephen were
first dis covered during
the con struc tion of a
school in 1850. Once the
cemetery church for the
bish ops of Chur, it lies
next to Kirche St Luzi,
which has a ring crypt.
Sunlight bathing the Both can be visited on
vineyards on the hills a guided tour.
outside the city of Chur

3 4 town. Built in the 12th century
as the church of a monastery,
Kirche St Martin Kirche St Luzi the building overlies the crypt
of an 8th­century structure,
⌂ St Martinsplatz § 081 ⌂ Alte Schanfiggerstrasse 9
252 22 92 # 8:30–11:30am This massive church, which is including a ring crypt, where
the relics of Saint Lucius were
& 2–5pm Mon–Fri
dedicated to the missionary once dis played. Amid the
Since at least AD 769 there who is said to have brought church’s soaring Carolingian
has been a church dedicated Christianity to the region, sits arches and grand capi tals,
to St Martin on this spot. The atop a vineyard­covered hill Romanesque carvings are
late Goth ic church that stands on the east side of the old visible. A seminary is on site.
here today was com pleted in
1491, replacing the earlier
Bündner
church that was de stroyed Naturmuseum 0 metres 200 N
Chur
by fire in 1464. The steepled Station O T T O S T R A S S E
tower, which domin ates the BAH NHO F P LAT Z A LE X A N D E R STRASSE 200
city’s land scape, was com­ HARTBERTSTR. CA LVENWEG
pleted in 1534, and re mained
QUADERSTRASSE
unaltered until 1917 when it STEINBOCKSTRASSE M A S A N S E R S T R A S S E 0 yards
was re placed by the tower B A H N H O F S T R A S S E QUADERSTRASSE
seen today. According to local ENGA D I N ST R . THEATERWEG ST EI NB R U C HSTRASSE
tradi tion, Protestant reformer ZEUGHAUSSTR.
Bündner
Martin Luther him self de liv­ Kunstmuseum
ered a sermon in the mid­ GÄU G GE LI ST R A S S E GRABENSTR. Bündner
1520s, which prompted the Calanda REICHSG. Stube
congrega tion’s conversion. POST- STORCHENGASSE
PLATZ
Regierungsplatz
Among the most no table Graues
G R A B E N S T R A S S E
fea tures of its interior are the E N G A D I N S T R A S S E Fontana- P OSTSTR A S S E VAZEROLGAS SE Haus
carved stalls and the stained­ FONTANASTR. park REICHSG. KARLIHOF- PLANATERRASTRASSE
PLATZ
Stadt-
glass win dows, on the right AQUA SANASTRASSE garten KLOSTERGASSE
OLD TOWN
of the main doors, cre ated by SENNHOFSTR. AROSASTRASSE AROSAS T R A S S E
Augusto Giacometti in 1917–19, KORN- Rathaus R EIC HS G . SÜSSWINKELG.
PLATZ
which depict the Nativity UNTERE GASSE HE R R E N G A SS E RABENG. Rätisches
story. In the north and south Plessur Obertor KUPFERGASSE MARTINS- Museum HOFSTRASSE Bischöflicher Hof
ST.
GOLDGASSE
façades is some of the orig inal OBERE GASSE PLATZ
Kirche
HOF-
Carolingian masonry. Obere ARCAS St Martin PLATZ
Zum Alten Gasse ST. LUZIE N STR. Kirche
Zollhaus Chur St Luzi
Cathedral
L I ND E N Q U A I
P L E S S U R Q U A I
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Middle Eastern character of
HIDDEN GEM the buil ding’s interior decora-
Alien Barscape tion. The exterior also reflects Did You Know?
On the unassuming an affinity for Middle Eastern
Comercialstrasse, lurks culture, with two sphinxes Chur-born painter
the Giger Bar (www. that greet visitors, flanking Angelica Kauffmann
hrgiger.com). The bar is both sides of the front steps, was a well-known
themed on the most and a golden dome designed portraitist by the
fa mous (and Oscar- in the Byzantine style. The age of 12.
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
win ning) work of Swiss pinnacle of this style takes
artist H R Giger – the the shape of the crescent
surrealistic crea tures moon that crowns the top
and nightmare land- of the dome. Next to the villa
scapes of Hollywood stands the award-winning 6 '
blockbuster Alien. The annexe, de signed by the Rathaus
entire bar, from the fit- Barcelona-based architect
tings to the roofs, are all Barozzi Veiga. On the upper ⌂ Poststrasse # By prior
designed in his iconic floors are airy public spaces, arrangement § 081 252
bio mechanical style. 18 18
while the exhi bitions are laid
out on the lower floors under- Built in 1465, the Gothic town
ground. A pedestrian zone hall stands on the site of an
links the two buildings. earlier building that was
5 "'-= Most of the paintings and destroyed by fire. At ground
Bündner sculptures that fill the rooms level is a handsome arcaded
Kunstmuseum of the two spaces are by artists area that was once used as a
who either were born or lived market place. The upper floors
⌂ Postplatz § 081 257
28 68 # 10am–5pm and worked in Graubünden of the town hall contain two
Tue–Sun ∑ buendner- be tween the 18th and 20th finely decorated council
centuries. The impressive roster chambers, one with a wooden
kunstmuseum.ch
includes Angelica Kauffmann, ceiling and the other with
Chur’s museum of fine arts is Giovanni Segantini, Ferdinand Renaissance panelling. Both
spread across two buildings. Hodler, Giovanni and Alberto chambers have 17th-century
One is a large, hand some Neo- Giacometti, and Ernst Ludwig tiled stoves.
Renaissance villa dating from Kirchner, as well as members The house that stands at
1874–5, built for Jacques of the Basel group of artists Reichsgasse 57, nearby, is
Ambrosius von Planta, a mer- Rot-Blau (Red-Blue). the birthplace of the Swiss
chant who traded in Egypt. painter Angelica Kauffmann.
This heritage accounts for the Born in 1741, she later moved
to London, where she became
a well-known portraitist and
painter of mythological
themes, such as Cupid.

7
Regierungsplatz
Lining this square, on the
north side of the Old Town,
are several historic buildings,
which now serve as the seat
of the cantonal authorities.
One of the finest is Graues
Haus (Grey House), a stately
three-storey residence dating
from 1752. It is also known as
the New Building, to distin-


The gridded cube-
shaped annexe of the
Bündner Kunstmuseum
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