Swiss watch making, and has
been awarded World Heritage
status by UNESCO. In 1705
the young watchmaker Daniel
Jeanrichard arrived from
Neuchâtel to settle in Le Locle,
where he set up a workshop.
The apprentices that he
trained then established
workshops of their own in
La ChauxdeFonds, thus
launching the nowfamous
Swiss watchmaking industry.
The Musée d’Horlogerie,
which occupies a stately
18thcentury mansion (the
elegant Château des Monts),
presents a large collection of
timepieces from around the
The Fête des Vendanges world, as well as several
(Grape Harvest Festival), elaborate automata.
in late September, Neuchâtel
modern museum complex up Mont Tendre – at 1,679 m
illustrating the history of (5,500 ft) it’s the highest peak EAT
human activity and the set in the region, but a mere
tlement around the lake. Once hillock compared to the Alps.
a year the town’s centuryold When snow descends, the Ananda Café-
Grape Harvest Festival cele trails on the gentle slopes Boutique
brates the bounty from the around the lake provide some Himalayan food
region’s vineyards. wonderful crosscountry in a vintage setting.
skiing. At 1,004 m (3,300 ft) ⌂ Fbg de l’Hôpital 31,
altitude, the lake sometimes Neuchâtel § 032 721
21 freezes over in the coldest 34 44
weeks, creating the largest
Vallée de Joux natural ice rink in Europe.
! A4 £ @ KJU
Mediterranean dishes
The Jura may not be as 22
dramatic as the Alps, but its served with a twist.
moderate peaks and valleys Le Locle ⌂ Quai Perdonnet 22,
offer a more accessible, ! B3 £ @ ∑ lelocle.ch Vevey ∑ q-vevey.ch
familyfriendly way to
make the most of the great The town of Le Locle is
outdoors. One of the loveliest renowned the world over
places in the Swiss Jura is the as being the birthplace of
Vallée de Joux and its centre
piece, the sprawling Lac de
Joux, the largest lake in the
Jura. In summer, the lake is
a playground for swimmers,
boaters and windsurfers,
while hikers and cyclists
take to the surrounding
trails. Many are suitable for
all abilities, including the hike
Highly decorated
clocks in the Musée
de l’Horlogerie
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Ornate clocks at the Musée
International d’Horlogerie
at La Chaux-de-Fonds
24
Franches-Montagnes
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland 23 some 3,000 pieces from juratourisme.ch
! B3 £ @ n Saignelégier,
6 Place du 23 Juin; www.
The part of the Jura moun-
tains that lies within the
canton of Jura itself are known
as the Franches-Montagnes.
The area received its name in
around the world illustrates
La Chaux-de-Fonds
the 14th century, when the
the history of timekeeping
! B3 £ @ n 1 Rue Espacité;
owned the territory that now
antiquity to state-of-the-art
032 889 68 95
instruments able to record
constitutes the canton of Jura,
If Le Locle is the birthplace from its beginnings in prince-bishop of Basel, who
granted its inhabitants a
time lapses of infinitesimal
of the Swiss watchmaking fractions of a second. Many of franchise, or exemption from
industry, La Chaux-de-Fonds the most impressive-looking taxation, in order to encourage
may be regarded as its cradle. pieces on display were made migration to this sparsely
The largest town in the in La Chaux-de-Fonds during populated region.
canton of Neuchâtel, La the town’s apogee. Musical, The Franches-Montagnes
Chaux-de-Fonds lies in the astrononomical, atomic and lie at an altitude of 1,000–
Jura at an altitude of 1,000 m quartz clocks are also on 1,100 m (3,300–3,600 ft). With
(3,280 ft). Introduced to the display. The museum has spruce and fir forests, undu-
town in the early 18th audiovisual facilities, a library lating pastures and prettily
century, watchmaking was and a restoration workshop picturesque low houses, this
initially a cottage industry. In for antique clocks and outstandingly beautiful
time it was industrialized, and watches. At the entrance is a plateau has extensive hiking
La Chaux-de-Fonds became tubular steel carillon that trails, and cycling and cross-
the leading centre of Swiss sounds every 15 minutes. country skiing routes. It is
watchmaking. The industry La Chaux-de-Fonds is also also famous for its sturdy
reached its peak in the late the birthplace of the modern- breed of horses.
18th and 19th centuries. ist architect Charles-Édouard The region’s principal town
After it was destroyed by Jeanneret (1887–1965), known is Saignelégier. Every year, in
a fire in 1794, the town was as Le Corbusier, from the
rebuilt to a grid pattern, French word “le corbeau” or
with long, wide avenues. It “the raven”. Before he moved
is now dotted with a number to Paris in 1917, Le Corbusier
of modernist buildings. built several houses here, and
The illustrious past of La an itinerary taking in buildings
Chaux-de-Fonds is celebrated that he designed and places
in the magnificent Musée associated with him is
International d’Horlogerie. available from the town’s
The museum’s collection of tourist office.
Musée International
d’Horlogerie
Did You Know? " ⌂ 29 Rue des Musées
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
La Brevine has the ∑ mih.ch
record for the coldest
temperature on the
lowlands(-41.5° C/
-42.7° F) The Creux de Van,
Western Switzerland’s
“Grand Canyon”
152
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the second week of August,
it hosts the Marché Concours ABSINTHE
National des Chevaux, a Absinthe may be the preferred tipple of
showpiece for the area’s anguished poets and painters in Paris,
unique breed of Franches- but the Green Fairy (left) actually
Montagnes horses. comes from the canton of Neuchâtel
(p150). The spirit was banned for a
century, though many continued to
25 distil it in secret, creating colourful
Creux de Van anecdotes of clandestine activity that
are told in the Maison de l’Absinthe in
Môtiers (www.maison-absinthe.ch).
! B4
Walk or cycle the Absinthe Trail, which
This horseshoe-shaped rock connects dis tilleries, restaurants
formation in the Jura is and even a choc olate shop that uses
sometimes nicknamed absinthe in its products.
Western Switzerland’s “Grand
Canyon” (the Rhine gorge
stakes its claim for the east
of the country). That may be isolated spot with a mythical Doubs. The town grew up
a bit of a stretch, but still, the status – during the century around the hermitage that
160-m- (525-ft-) high cliffs that absinthe was banned in Ursicinus, a disciple of
are impressive and offer far- Switzerland, covert drinkers St Columba, established
reaching views of the Jura would come here to enjoy it here in the early 7th century.
mountains and the lush valley in secret, preparing it in the The focal point of the town
below – if you dare look over traditional way, by slowly is its beautiful Romanesque
the vertigo-inducing edge. adding water, a process and Gothic church. It has a
The easiest way to access it known as “troubling”. fine Romanesque portal, with
is to drive up the road to the statues of the Virgin and
restaurant near the top, though St Ursicinus. There are many
it’s much more satisfying to 26 fine old medieval houses, as
earn the views by hiking up well as a graceful arched stone
the steep path through the St-Ursanne bridge, built in 1728 across
woods from the village of ! B3 @ n Place Roger the River Doubs on the south
Noiraigue. To descend, take an Schaffter; www. side of St-Ursanne, which
alternative path down through juratourisme.ch provides a good view of the
the centre of the horseshoe. town and its setting. The
You’ll pass by the fontaine A charming medieval walled bridge features a statue of St
froide, a natural spring where town with fortified gates, John Nepomucene, who is
the water is a chilly 4° C (39° F) St-Ursanne is set in a deep often considered the patron
year-round. It’s a peaceful, canyon washed by the River saint of bridges.
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A rooftop bar at sunset overlooking Zürich’s Old Town
ZÜRICH
Capital of the densely populated canton of the same
name, the city of Zürich lies on the north shore of
the Zürichsee at the point where the River Limmat
flows north out of the lake. By the 1st century BC,
a Celtic settlement, Turicum, had been established
on the Lindenhof. A Carolingian palace was built on
this hill, now in the heart of the old city, in the 9th
century, and a trading settlement developed at its
base. Briefly under the control of the Zähringen
dynasty, Zürich passed to the Holy Roman Empire
in 1218 and joined the Swiss Confederation in 1351.
By the early Middle Ages, the silk, wool, linen
and leather trades had already brought Zürich’s
merchants great wealth. This merchant class was
overthrown and replaced by disgruntled guilds,
who in turn held power until the late 18th century.
In the 16th century, Zürich embraced the
Reformation, thanks to Ulrich Zwingli, who
preached from the Grossmünster, the city’s great
cathedral. The city then fell into a period of relative
obscurity until the 19th century, when Zürich
underwent rapid industrial growth. As a result
of Switzerland’s neutrality, the city emerged from
the aftermath of both world wars as a major centre
of finance, which it continues to be to this day.
155
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Migros Museum fürür
Migros Museum f Museum Museum HO C
Gegenwartsk fur Gestaltung HO CHSTRASSE
Gegenwartskunstunst
fur Gestaltung
1 km (0.6 mile) OBERSTRASS TOBLERSTRASSE
1 km (0.6 mile)
OBERSTRASS E
ZOLLSTRASSE
ZOLLSTRASSE
CL AUSTIUSSTR ASSE V E R S I T Ä T S T R A S S HUT T E NSTR ASSE GLADBACHSTRASSE F REUDENB ERG ST R ASSE F REUDENB ERG ST R ASSE
TOBLERSTRASSE
U N I V E R S I T Ä T S T R A S S E HSTRASSE TOBLERSTR. TOBLERSTR.
STAMPFENBACHSTR.
STAMPFENBACHSTR.
Limmat
Limmat
LIMMATSTR.
NEUMÜHLE QUAI
NEUMÜHLE QUAI
LIMMATSTR.
S I H LQ U A I
S I H LQ U A I
GLADBACHSTRASSE
ZOLLSTRASSE
KONRADSTR
KONRADSTR.
ZOLLSTRASSE .
HUT T E NSTR ASSE
SCHÖNEGGSTR.
SCHÖNEGGSTR.
BOLLEYSTR ASSE
BOLLEYSTR ASSE
Schweizeriches
CL AUSTIUSSTR A
WEINBERGSTRASSE
GUSTAV-GULL GUSTAV-GULL-- Schweizeriches SONNEGGSTR ASSE D L I STRASSE HOCHSTRASSE TOBLER- TOBLER-
SPÖ N
S C H M E L Z B E R G S T R A S S E
Nationalmuseum
PLATZ PLATZ Nationalmuseum PLATZ PLATZ
SONNEGGSTR ASSE
WEINBERGSTRASSE SSE
Langstrasse EUROPAALLEE EUROPAALLEE MUSEUMSTR. MUSEUMSTR. U N I SPÖ N D L I STRASSE
Langstrasse
HOCHSTRASSE
L A N G S T R A S S E L A N G S T R A S S E MILITÄRSTRASSE MILITÄRSTRASSE BAHNHOF- BAHNHOF-
Hauptbahnhof
BR AUERSTR.
BR AUERSTR.
Bäckeranlag Bäckeranlagee KANONENGASSE KANONENGASSE LAGERSTRASSE Hauptbahnhof LEONHARDSTRA. LEONHARDSTRA. S C H M E L Z B E R G S T R A S S E VOLTASTR A S SE VOLTASTR A S SE GLADBACHSTRASSE
LAGERSTRASSE
GLADBACHSTRASSE
Eidgenössiche
LÖWENSTRASSE INTH-ESCHER-G.
BERG
STAUFFACHERSTRASSE
BERG
Technische
STAUFFACHERSTRASSE
Technische
Kasernen- Kasernen- PLATZ PLATZ BAHNHOFQ UAI LIMMATQUAI Eidgenössiche MOUSSONSTR. R I A S T R A S S E VORDER- VORDER-
LIMMATQUAI
Hochschule
NIEDERDORFSTR.
KASERNENSTRASSE
HELVETIA- HELVETIA- wiese wiese BEATEN- BEATEN- Hochschule MOUSSONSTR. G LO R I A S T R A S S E
PLATZ
PLATZ
PLATZ PLATZ ZEUGHAUSSTRASSE LÖWEN- LÖWEN- OF- LINTH-ESCHER-G. BAHNHOFQ UAI Universität R A S S E G LO
KANZLEISTRASSE
KANZLEISTRASSE
Volkshaus
Volkshaus BÄCKERSTRASSE BÄCKERSTRASSE KASERNENSTRASSE GESSNER ALLEE GESSNER ALLEE PLATZ L PLATZ NH BAH STRASSE BAHNHOF- STRASSE NIEDERDORFSTR. SEILERGRABEN SEILERGRABEN Universität G L O R I A S T R A S S E NÄGELISTR. NÄGELISTR.
Zürich I A S T
Zürich
ZEUGHAUSSTRASSE
MÜLLERSTRASSE
MÜLLERSTRASSE
URANIASTRASSE
B A DEN E R ST R A SSE STAUFFACHERST LÖWENSTRASSE URANIASTRASSE MÜHLEGA SSE MÜHLEGA SSE HIR SCH EN G R A BEN G L O R
B A DEN E R ST R A SSE
Limmatquai
ZÜRICHBERGSTRASSE
St Jakob St Jakob Sihl Sihl Lindenhof Limmatquai Prediger- Prediger- ZÜRICHBERGSTRASSE SPIEGELHOFSTR.
HIR SCH EN G R A BEN
Lindenhof
SPIEGELHOFSTR.
600 metres 600 metres RSTRASSE Bahnhofstrasse RENNWE RENNWEG kirche kirche A T T E N H O F E R S T R .
ZWEIE
Niederdorf
A T T E N H O F E R S T R .
(650 yards) (650 yards) ZWEIERSTRASSE RASSE Selnau BahnhofstrasseG Niederdorf NEUMARKT NEUMARKT PESTALOZZISTR. PESTALOZZISTR.
WERDSTR.
WERDSTR.
RINDER-
RINDER-
ALTSTADT
STAUFFACHERSTRASSE
MARKT
St Peter und
St Peter und STAUFFACHERQUAI STAUFFACHERQUAI Selnau TAL S T RA SSE ALTSTADT Rathaus- Rathaus- MAR KTG. MARKT FREIESTRASSE FREIESTRASSE
Augustinerkirche
brücke
Paul Paul SELNAUSTR. Augustinerkirche ST PETER- ST PETER- brücke RÄMISTR. RÄMISTR.
S E E BA H N ST R A S SE H A L LW Y L S T R A S S E
H A L LW Y L S T R A S S E SIHLHÖLZSTRASSE Garten Botanischer Kirche St Peter MÜNSTER- MÜNSTER- brücke KIRCHG. Grossmünster SEILERGRABEN HOTTINGERSTRASSE STEINWIESSTRASSE D O L D E R S T R A S S E
MAR KTG.
HOF
HOF
PELIKANSTR.
PELIKANSTR.
P L AT T E N ST R A S S E
STEINWIESSTRASSE
P L AT T E N ST R A S S E
Kirche St Peter
Alte
Alte
Rathaus
Rathaus
Botanischer
D O L D E R S T R A S S E
SELNAUSTR. TAL S T RA SSE
Garten
SEILERGRA
Zunfthaus zur Meisen
SIHLHÖLZSTRASSE
Zunfthaus zur Meisen Münster-Münster-
KIRCHG.BEN
brücke
Grossmünster
Kunsthaus
Kunsthaus
S E E BA H N ST R A S SE
HOF
HOF
Zürich
Zürich
PARADE-
PARADE-
Wasserkirche
Wasserkirche
HOTTINGERSTRASSE
BRANDSCHENKE-
PLATZ
Fraumünster
WESTSTRASSE
WESTSTRASSE
MANESSESTRASSE MANESSESTRASSE F R E I G U T ST R A S S E BRANDSCHENKE- PLATZ BAHNHOFSTRASSE TALSTRASSE Fraumünster Quai- RÄMISTR. STRASSE HOCHSCHULEN Neuapostolische MERKURSTR ASSE ASYLSTRASSE ASYLSTRASSE
Neuapostolische
STRASSE
STRASSE
STA DT HA U S Q UAI
STA DT HA U S Q UAI
Kirche
Kirche
AEGERTENSTR.
AEGERTENSTR.
I LG EN STR AS SE
I LG EN STR AS SE
SELNAUSTRASSE
SELNAUSTRASSE
RÄMISTR.
STRASSE
OBERDORF-
OBERDORF-
Z E LT W E G KURSTR ASSE
BLEICHERWEG
HOCHSCHULEN
Quai-
BRAN DS CH EN KE STRASSE
BRAN DS CH EN KE STRASSE ENGE BLEICHERWEG TÖDISTR ASSE BEETHOVENSTRASSE BEETHOVENSTRASSE BÜRKLI- brücke Stadelhofen BELLEVUE- PLATZ Stadelhofen MER Artergut N E P T U N ST R . N E P T U N ST R . FREIESTRASSE FREIESTRASSE
brücke
BELLEVUE-
Z E LT W E G
TALSTRASSE
PLATZ
PLATZ
BAHNHOFSTRASSE
BÜRKLI-
F R E I G U T ST R A S S E
Theater
Theater
Stadelhofen
PLATZ
PLATZ
Stadelhofen
Artergut
FALKENSTR.
FALKENSTR.
C L AR I D EN ST R ASS E
C L AR I D EN ST R ASS E
ENGE
SECHSELÄUTEN-
SECHSELÄUTEN-
GENFERSTR ASSE AL-GUISAN-QUAI
PLATZ
SEEFELD
TELSTR.
TELSTR.
KREUZBÜHLSTR
ENGLISCHVIER-
ENGLISCHVIER-
Opernhaus
SEEFELD ASSE
TÖDISTR ASSE
EIDMATTSTRASSE
EIDMATTSTRASSE
STOCKERSTRASSE
STOCKERSTRASSE
Enge Enge GENFERSTR ASSE GENERAL-GUISAN-QUAI Opernhaus S EE H O F STR . S EE H O F STR . KREUZBÜHLSTRASSE MINERVASTRA. MINERVASTRA.
B E D E R S T R A S S E
B E D E R S T R A S S E GRÜTLISTRASSE GENER KREUZSTRASSE KREUZSTRASSE M I N E R V A S T R A S S E L U N A S T R A S S E
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TUNNELSTRASSE
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M AN ES S EST R .
Giesshübel Giesshübel BÜRGLISTR. U T O Q U A I U T O Q U A I MÜHLEBACHSTRASSE FO RC H ST R A S S E
FELDEGGSTRASSE
L U N A S T R A S S E
FELDEGGSTRASSE
M I N E R V A S T R A S S E
FO RC H ST R A S S E
Klopstock- Klopstock- Kirche Kirche SEESTRASSE DUFOURSTSTRASSE SEEFELDSTRASSE SEEFELDSTRASSE
FLOR ASTR.
wiese wiese Enge BÜRGLISTR. SEESTRASSE Enge FLOR ASTR. MÜHLEBACHSTRASSE Z O LL IKE RSTRA SS E
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Dreikönigen M M
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SCHULHAU SST RA S SE Y T H Y H M AIN A UST R . M AIN A UST R . Seeburg park Kirche Kirche
Neumünster
Neumünster
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GRÜTLISTRASSE L A V A T E R S T R A S S E
park
HAMMERSTRASSE
FELDEGGSTR. FELDEGGSTR. MÜHLEBACH Seeburg A SS E HAMMERSTRASSE HAMM ER STR AS SE
E
E
MÜHLEBACH
Zürichsee
Zürichsee
N
N
G ABL E R S T R A S S E R. WAGNER STRASSE - S T R A S S E Q U A A L F R E D - E S C H E R - S T R A S S E Q U A KLA U S S T R AS S E SEEFELDSTRASSE SEEFELDSTRASSE HAMM ER STR AS SE F O R C H S T R A S S E
G ABL E R S T R A S S E
KLA U S S T R AS S E
A L F R E D - E S C H E R
R. WAGNER STRASSE
I
I
Botanisc Botaniscchercher WEINEGG ST R A S SE F O R C H S T R A S S E
Museum Museum Garten Garten
WEINEGG ST R A S SE
HÖSCH- GASSE
SEESTRASSE SEESTRASSE BELLERIVESTRASS LINDENSTRASSE E
STEINHALDENSTRA
WAFFENPLATZST
RIETERSTRASSE
ENGIMATTSTRASSE
LINDENSTRASSE
HÖSCH- GASS
Saalsporthalle Rietberg Rietberg
ENGIMATTSTRASSE RA
STEINHALDENSTRASSE
RIETERSTRASSE SSE
Saalsporthalle SSE
WAFFENPLATZSTRASSE
Belvoir-
Rieterpark Rieterpark park Belvoir- BELLERIVESTRASSE ZOLLIKERSTRASSE ZOLLIKERSTRASSE
park
Museum Museum
Bellerive ALDERSTR ASSE ALDERSTR ASSE
WEINEGG
Städtische BelleriveE WILD B AC HSTR. WILDBACHSTR. WEINEGG ZÜRICH ZÜRICH
SCHEIDEGG S T R A S S E
Städtische
SCHEIDEGG S T R A S S E
H OR N BAC H STR A S S E
Sukkulenten-
Sukkulenten-
Sammlung
Sammlung
BRUNAUST RASS E
BRUNAUST RASS E H OR N BAC H STR A S S E
500B E L L A R I A S T R A S S E K A P P E L I S T R A S S E B E L L A R I A S T R A S S E K A P P E L I S T R A S S E M Y T H E N Q U A I M Y T H E N Q U A I Zürichhorn BE DUFOURSTRASSE DUFOURSTRASSE SEEFELDSTR.
MÜ HL E BACH ST R A SS E
MÜ HL E BACH ST R A SS E
L E S S I N G S T R A S S E
L E S S I N G S T R A S S E
Zürichhorn
A L L M E N D S T R A S S E
A L L M E N D S T R A S S E
Park
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E G Bührle
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0 yards 0 yards 500 500 N T R A S S E
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Migros Museum fürür
Migros Museum f Museum Museum HO C
Gegenwartsk fur Gestaltung HO CHSTRASSE
Gegenwartskunstunst
fur Gestaltung
1 km (0.6 mile)
1 km (0.6 mile) OBERSTRASS TOBLERSTRASSE
OBERSTRASS E
ZOLLSTRASSE
ZOLLSTRASSE
CL AUSTIUSSTR ASSE V E R S I T Ä T S T R A S S HUT T E NSTR ASSE GLADBACHSTRASSE F REUDENB ERG ST R ASSE F REUDENB ERG ST R ASSE ZÜRICH
TOBLERSTRASSE
U N I V E R S I T Ä T S T R A S S E HSTRASSE TOBLERSTR. TOBLERSTR. Must Sees
STAMPFENBACHSTR.
STAMPFENBACHSTR.
Limmat
Limmat
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NEUMÜHLE QUAI
LIMMATSTR.
LIMMATSTR.
S I H LQ U A I
S I H LQ U A I
GLADBACHSTRASSE
ZOLLSTRASSE
KONRADSTR
ZOLLSTRASSE .
KONRADSTR.
HUT T E NSTR ASSE
1 Schweizeriches Nationalmuseum
SCHÖNEGGSTR.
SCHÖNEGGSTR.
BOLLEYSTR ASSE
BOLLEYSTR ASSE
Schweizeriches
CL AUSTIUSSTR A
WEINBERGSTRASSE
GUSTAV-GULL GUSTAV-GULL-- Schweizeriches SONNEGGSTR ASSE D L I STRASSE HOCHSTRASSE TOBLER- TOBLER- 2 Kunsthaus Zürich
SPÖ N
S C H M E L Z B E R G S T R A S S E
Nationalmuseum
SONNEGGSTR ASSE
WEINBERGSTRASSE SSE
PLATZ PLATZ Nationalmuseum PLATZ PLATZ
Langstrasse
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HOCHSTRASSE
L A N G S T R A S S E L A N G S T R A S S E MILITÄRSTRASSE MILITÄRSTRASSE BAHNHOF- BAHNHOF- Gegenwartskunst
Hauptbahnhof
BR AUERSTR.
BR AUERSTR.
Bäckeranlag Bäckeranlagee KANONENGASSE KANONENGASSE LAGERSTRASSE Hauptbahnhof LEONHARDSTRA. LEONHARDSTRA. S C H M E L Z B E R G S T R A S S E VOLTASTR A S SE VOLTASTR A S SE GLADBACHSTRASSE 3 Migros Museum für
LAGERSTRASSE
GLADBACHSTRASSE
Eidgenössiche
LÖWENSTRASSE INTH-ESCHER-G.
BERG
STAUFFACHERSTRASSE
Technische
STAUFFACHERSTRASSE
BERG
Technische
5 Bahnhofstrasse
Kasernen- Kasernen- PLATZ PLATZ BAHNHOFQ UAI LIMMATQUAI Eidgenössiche MOUSSONSTR. R I A S T R A S S E VORDER- VORDER- 4 Hauptbahnhof
LIMMATQUAI
NIEDERDORFSTR.
Hochschule
KASERNENSTRASSE
HELVETIA- HELVETIA- wiese wiese BEATEN- BEATEN- Hochschule MOUSSONSTR. G LO R I A S T R A S S E
PLATZ
PLATZ
PLATZ PLATZ ZEUGHAUSSTRASSE LÖWEN- LÖWEN- OF- LINTH-ESCHER-G. BAHNHOFQ UAI Universität R A S S E G LO 6 Langstrasse
KANZLEISTRASSE
KANZLEISTRASSE
Volkshaus
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Zürich I A S T
Zürich
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MAR KTG.
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14 Limmatquai
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19 Zürichhorn Park
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22 Städtische Sukku lenten-
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1 Haus Hiltl
B E D E R S T R A S S E GRÜTLISTRASSE GENER KREUZSTRASSE KREUZSTRASSE M I N E R V A S T R A S S E M I N E R V A S T R A S S E 2 Conditorei Schober
B E D E R S T R A S S E
Drink
TUNNELSTRASSE
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M AN ES S EST R .
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L U N A S T R A S S E
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GRÜTLISTRASSE L A V A T E R S T R A S S E
park
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KLA U S S T R AS S E
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A
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park
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Bellerive ALDERSTR ASSE ALDERSTR ASSE
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WEINEGG
SCHEIDEGG S T R A S S E
Städtische BelleriveE WILD B AC HSTR. WILDBACHSTR. MÜ HL E BACH ST R A SS E WEINEGG ZÜRICH ZÜRICH
SCHEIDEGG S T R A S S E
Städtische
H OR N BAC H STR A S S E
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Sammlung
BRUNAUST RASS E
BRUNAUST RASS E H OR N BAC H STR A S S E
500B E L L A R I A S T R A S S E K A P P E L I S T R A S S E B E L L A R I A S T R A S S E K A P P E L I S T R A S S E M Y T H E N Q U A I M Y T H E N Q U A I Zürichhorn BE DUFOURSTRASSE DUFOURSTRASSE SEEFELDSTR.
MÜ HL E BACH ST R A SS E
L E S S I N G S T R A S S E
L E S S I N G S T R A S S E
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A L L M E N D S T R A S S E
A L L M E N D S T R A S S E
Park
SEEFELDSTR.
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R I E T E R S T R A S S E
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EXPERIENCE Zürich
1
2
3
1 People sitting in Bürkliplatz.
2 A yacht on Lake Zürich.
3 Admiring a sculpture in
Zürichhorn Park.
4 The Grossmünster looming
4 over Zürich.
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3 DAYS
in Zürich
Day 1 Switzerland’s most popular piece. Stop for
Morning Jump straight into the city’s lunch at Hiltl (p167), the world’s first vege
(and Switzerland’s) past with a visit tarian restaurant, opened in 1898.
to the Schweizerisches Nationalmuseum Afternoon Take in another side of the
(p162), where local history is revealed city with a train trip, from Hauptbahnhof
through fascinating exhibits on home (p166) to Üetliberg, Zürich’s “mountain”. A
design and fashion. Mull it all over with path from the station leads through the
lunch at Spitz, the museum restaurant. woods to Hotel Uto Kulm’s (www.utokulm.
Afternoon Cross the Walchbrücke and ch) delightful café terrace. After a coffee,
explore the pedes trianized warren of climb the 179 steps of the communications
Niederdorf (p169). Detour down narrow tower for splendid views over the city.
Napfgasse and into Conditorei Schober Evening Return to the city centre for an
(p167) for irresistible pastries and drinking evening cruise on Zürichsee (p170) from
chocolate made by Lindt to Herr Schober’s the pier at Bürkliplatz. Afterward, walk
own specification. Meander on to the along the riverside into the Old Town
city’s largest church, the Grossmünster for cock tails mixed by masters at Old
(p169), where the Protestant reformer Crow (p168).
Ulrich Zwingli preached.
Evening Stroll down Bahnhofstrasse Day 3
(p166), which ends at Bürkliplatz, then nip
into the Arboretum and Belvoirpark with Morning Dip into the city’s bestknown
its huge collection of irises and daylilies. area of urban regeneration, Zürich West.
After, enjoy fresh fish dishes at a This former Industriequartier has been
restaurant overlooking the water. transformed into a vibrant area of inde
pendent bars, restaurants and shops
Day 2 selling everything from Tunisian textiles
to electric bikes. Nearby is the iconic
Morning Have breakfast at Confiserie Freitag shop (p161), housed inside a stack
Sprüngli (www.spruengli.ch). A meeting of 19 shipping containers.
place for Zürich’s welltodo since 1859, Afternoon After a lunch of panPacific
it is now renowned for its Bircher muesli cuisine at hip Steinfels microbrewery
with seasonal berries. Cross the Limmat (www.steinfels-zuerich.ch), wander through
to visit Zürich's Kunsthaus (p164), home Zürichhorn Park (p171), which stretches all
to one of the city’s most impor tant collec the way to Zürichsee. The park is dotted
tions of art. Its highlight is Rudolf Koller’s with sculptures by modern artists, including
Gotthard Post (1873), a vivid painting of a Heureka, a kinetic sculpture created by artist
postal coach scattering cows; it was voted Jean Tinguely for Expo 64 in Lausanne (p130).
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The Hipster
Neighbourhood
Im Viadukt is a series ofhip
retro-fitted railway arches
that house 60-odd DIY
designers and retailers,
finishing with Markthalle, an
über-trendy indoor market
stuffed with artisan delica-
DISCOVER Switzerland Your Way listen to live music at the indie
tessens and bakeries. Come
hungry, as there are farm-
fresh cheeses, cured meats,
and sustainably sourced
goodies on offer. You can also
bar Bogen F, learn the
Argentine Tango at Club El
Social, or take a break at the
laid-back Jenseits café.
The arches making up
Im Viadukt, a cultural
hub in Zürich
ZÜRICH FOR
SHOPPERS
Whether you’re splashing out or simply browsing, when it comes to shopping
in Switzerland, Zürich has no competition. It’s home to historic department
stores, legendary watch salons and fresh-faced designers who keep the city’s
residents catwalk-ready. No doubt about it, this city knows how to dress.
The New Kid on the Block
The city’s latest shopping sensation is the
pedestrianized Europaallee on the southern
side of Bahnhofstrasse. It’s growing year on
year, and is currently home to modern
Zürich-born fashion brands including Opia,
Alprausch and Fashnpie. Once you’re all
shopped out, there are just as many restau-
rants, cafés and bars to try. Buy a round of
craft beers at Loft Five, or a cocktail or two
at Ynos Kitchen Bar.
One of the many
outdoor cafés on
the Europaallee
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INSIDER TIP
Classic Swiss
Army Knife
This multifunctional
tool was invented as an
aid for soldiers in 1897,
but it quickly became
adopted by adven turers
the world over. Today
it is still made in the
canton of Schwyz by its
inventor Karl Elsener’s
company, Victorinox,
but the brand’s flagship
store is conveniently
located in the centre of
Zürich (Rennweg 58).
You can come here to
get your own pocket
knife personalized and
take home a oneofa
kind souvenir.
The Must-Have
Accessory
Freitag is one of the
most famous eco
friendly designers
in Europe and one
of their bags has
become an icon of
Swiss innovation.
Featured in the
permanent collection
of New York’s Museum of
Modern Art, Freitag’s
The glittering lights messenger bag is made of
of Bahnhofstrasse truck tarpaulins, bicycle
at dusk tubes and car seat belts.
The Credit Card Spree
Zürich’s showpiece boulevard
Bahnhofstrasse is a kaleido
scope of prestigious brands
that rivals New York’s Fifth
Avenue or the Champs
Élysées in Paris for style
and spectacle. Start with
a browse in the country’s
original department store
Globus, then visit Gubelin,
Zürich’s flagship watch
boutique which is stocked
with limitededition models
from homegrown brands
such as Patek Philippe, Rolex
and Vacheron Constantin.
You’ll also find international Freitag’s flagship store
brands, such as Chanel, Dior, made of refurbished
Tiffany and Co., and Gucci. shipping containers
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1 "'-=
SCHWEIZERISCHES
NATIONALMUSEUM
EXPERIENCE Zürich ∑ nationalmuseum.ch
C1 ⌂ Museumstrasse 2 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm Thu)
Housed in an 1898 fairytale mansion and an adjoining contemporary
wing on the banks of the River Limmat, the Swiss National Museum’s
eclectic collections take visitors on a time-travelling turn through the
highlights of Switzerland’s history.
The collections of the Swiss National Museum
illustrate the country’s history and culture
from prehistoric times to the present day. The
museum has outposts at various locations
around the country – the Château de Prangins
in Vaud and the Forum of Swiss History in
Schwyz – but its headquarters are in Zürich,
which have the largest collection of objects
illustrating the cultural history of Switzerland.
Highlights include artifacts from Switzerland’s
rich archaeological past, displays of costumes
and Swiss handicrafts. A wing of exposed
concrete, connected to the original 1898
building and designed by Swiss architects
Christ & Gantenbein, opened in 2016. This
striking, angular edifice houses a permanent
collection of Swiss archaeology, temporary
exhibition spaces, a library and an auditorium.
Parts of the museum are closed for
renovation until 2020, and the location of
exhibits is likely to change. Visitors are advised
to check the website or call the museum for
up-to-date information.
The stark exterior of the
A globe by Jost Bürgi (1552–1632), museum’s 2016 extension,
one of the scientific instruments and the exhibition “Ideas
on display at the museum of Switzerland” (inset)
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Must See
GALLERY GUIDE
The west wing houses
the Collections Gallery,
which show cases a
cross-section of objects
from the museum’s col-
lection and focuses on
their history and how
they were made. Items
include altarpieces
and tapestries from 2
the Middle Ages, and
fashion and jewellery.
The first and second
floors contain the 1
History of Switzerland
galleries, though parts 1 The altarpiece with Saint
of these floors are Eligius in the smithy was
closed for renovation painted around 1495,
until fall 2019. The by Hans Leu the Elder.
southern wing has 2 Visitors take in a
Swiss archae ology on Renaissance bust
the first floor. There are in the extension wing.
temporary exhibition 3 Young people engage
spaces on all floors.
with interactive displays
in the Middle Ages section. 3
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2 "'-=
KUNSTHAUS
ZÜRICH
EXPERIENCE Zürich 10am–8pm Wed & Thu ∑ kunsthaus.ch Before you go into
D3 ⌂ Heimplatz 1 # 10am–6pm Tue, Fri–Sun,
HIDDEN GEM
The Gates of Hell
Switzerland’s greatest art gallery, the Kunsthaus
the museum, take a
Zürich contains important works of art ranging
moment to admire The
from medieval religious paintings and Dutch Old
Gates of Hell, next to the
Masters to Impressionist and Post-Impressionist
artworks. The gallery’s holdings also exemplify
French sculptor Rodin,
this intricate pair of
the major art movements of the 20th century. entrance. Created by
bronze doors depicts a
Highlights of this superb collection include paintings by the version of hell inspired
19th-century Swiss artists Ferdinand Hodler and Albert Anker, by Dante’s Inferno. It
the largest assemblage of work by Edvard Munch outside features almost 200
Scandinavia, paintings by Marc Chagall, and paintings and figures all clustered
sculpture by Alberto Giacometti. The gallery also stages around a single man – a
large-scale temporary exhibitions. A new extension to the smallscale version of
museum, due to open in 2020, will house both temporary Rodin’s famous Thinker.
and permanent exhibitions.
GALLERY GUIDE
The first and second
floors of the gallery
are dedicated to the
museum’s permanent
collections, while the
ground floor houses a
shop, café, cloakroom
and infor mation desk.
On the first floor,
European, American,
Swiss and contem
porary works are
exhibited. The second
floor has displays of
early 19thcentury
French art, modern art
and photog raphy. The
museum’s tem porary
exhibitions are usually
situated on the ground
and first floors of
the museum.
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Must See
1 Visitors admire the work of
German artist Sigmar Polke
on display at the gallery.
2 Wilhelm Wartmann (1923) is
one of several works by Edvard
Munch on display in the
permanent collection.
3 Falstaff in the Laundry
Basket was painted by Swiss
artist Johann Heinrich
Füssli in 1792.
1
2 3
Did You Know?
The gallery is home
to three sculptures by
renowned British
artist Henry Moore.
Outdoor café at the Kunsthaus,
next to Working Model of Unesco
Reclining Figure by Henry Moore
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EXPERIENCE MORE
the year, and it is also used for
3 " seasonal fairs and markets.
Migros Museum für Beneath the concourse is a
Gegenwartskunst modern shopping centre. Did You Know?
From the concourse ceiling
EXPERIENCE Zürich # 11am–6pm Tue–Fri (to its vibrant, almost garish Swiss citizen in 2013.
B1 ⌂ Limmatstrasse 270
Singer-songwriter
hangs an eye-catching statue,
Tina Turner lives in
8pm Thu), 10am–5pm Sat &
Zürich and became a
colours contrasting with the
Sun ∑ migrosmuseum.ch
sobriety of the surroundings.
This is Guardian Angel by the
Several galleries with dynamic
programming have made
Phalle (1930–2002).
Zürich a leading international
centre of contemporary art. French sculptor Niki de Saint brands and upmarket
One such gallery is the Migros cafeteria-style dining.
Museum für Gegenwartskunst, Beneath Beyer, a watch
which is located in the former 5 \-= and jewellery shop, is the
Löwenbräu brewery. It Bahnhofstrasse Uhren museum Beyer, a
specializes in organizing B2 clock museum containing
exhibitions of current art by a collection of timepieces
Swiss and foreign artists. The Running north to south from ranging from simple sundials,
museum provides an inter- Bahnhofplatz to the edge of to elegant modern watches.
active space for reflection and the Zürichsee, Bahnhofstrasse At Fraumünster, the street
viewing the works on display. is a long avenue that lies on opens onto Paradeplatz on its
the course of the medieval western side. Once a military
city’s moat. Mostly pedestri- parade ground, the square is
4 anized, with tramlines run- now lined with large buildings,
including the head quarters
ning along it, this the centre of
Hauptbahnhof Zürich’s commercial activity. It of Sprüngli, the Swiss choco-
is lined with chic restaurants latier. Bahnhofstrasse ends at
B1 ⌂ Bahnhofplatz
and upmarket shops, as well as Bürkliplatz. Facing onto
Zürich’s monumental the head quarters of several the Zürichsee, this square is
Neo-Renaissance train station major Swiss banks. the departure point for boat
is one of the city’s greatest Between Bahnhofstrasse trips on the lake.
icons. Completed in 1871, it (east) and Löwenstrasse
is well preserved and the (west) and Schweizergasse
original structure of the main and Sihlstrasse (to the north 6
hall remains unaltered. The and south) are Zürich’s main
clean, well-kept concourse is department stores, Globus Langstrasse
filled with stalls throughout and Jelmoli, offering exclusive
A1
Once a seedy red light district,
“Long Street” is today a trendy,
if not chic, area that features
mostly inexpensive boutiques
and Zürich’s best selection of
ethnic food stands. It is the
most vibrant area of town at
night. In July the four-day
Latin music festival Caliente,
Europe’s biggest Latin festival,
takes over the street.
Parallel to the main railway
line, and intersected by
Trams plying along the
Bahnhofstrasse, Zürich’s
main shopping street
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Panoramic views from the
Lindenhof over the River
Limmat and the Old Town
Langstrasse, is Europaallee, a community of Augustinian
new district of Zürich currently monks. When the monastery 10 "
under construction. The name was dissolved during the Zunfthaus zur Meisen
has changed three times and Reformation, the church was C3 ⌂ Münsterhof 20
completion by 2020 is not deconsecrated and stood # 11am–2pm Thu–Sun
guaranteed. It promises a unused for almost 300 years. ∑ zunfthaus-zur-meisen.ch
heady mix of culture, cutting- The interior was restored in
edge technology and the kind the 1840s, and in 1847 the This elegant late Baroque
of modish shops and eateries church was reconsecrated as house contains a collection
already found on Langstrasse. a Roman Catholic church. of 18th-century faÏence and
porcelain, including pieces by
Meissen and Sèvres. There are
7 \-= 9 also locally made items pro-
duced by Schooren and other
Lindenhof Kirche St Peter Swiss manufacturers.
C2 C2 ⌂ St-Peter-Hofstatt 6
§ 044 211 25 88 # 8am–
This tree-covered hill rises on 6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm
the west bank of the Limmat. Sat, 11am–5pm Sun
Its strategic position made it
an ideal location for a Celtic The most distinctive feature EAT
settlement and later for a of the Church of St Peter is its
Roman fort. In the 10th clockface. With a diameter of Haus Hiltl
century, an imperial palace 8.7 m (28 ft), it is the largest Try the saffron gnocchi
stood here. No buildings church clockface in Europe. at this pioneering
remain, but an observation The oldest surviving vestiges vegetarian buffet.
platform offers a view of the are those of a handsome late
surrounding rooftops and the Romanesque church erected B2 ⌂ Sihlstrasse 28
university buildings. There is in the early 13th century. They ∑ hiltl.ch
also a giant chessboard for include the simple rectangular
open-air games. presbytery, which is lit by a
semicircular window with Conditorei Schober
an intricate frame. The pres- Impossible-to-resist
8 bytery is crowned by a mid- hand-made chocolates
15th-century tower.
Augustinerkirche The main body of the church tempt at this lavish
cakebox of a café.
dates from 1705 to 1716. It
C2 ⌂ Augustinerhof 8 C2 ⌂ Napfgasse 4
§ 044 211 12 75 # 10am– takes the form of a galleried ∑ peclard-zurich.ch
5pm Mon–Fri, noon–5pm Sat basilica with a striking Baroque
interior. The dark panelling
This beautiful, unpretentious contrasts with the red columns
early Gothic church was built of the nave and the brilliant
in the late 13th century for a white stucco decoration.
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EXPERIENCE Zürich
The Fraumünster
church and one of its
Bodmer frescoes in the
DRINK cloisters (inset)
Old Crow
Expertly mixed 11
cocktails in an elegantly Fraumünster
intimate setting.
C2 ⌂ Schwanengasse C3 ⌂ Am 1970. They depict biblical
Münsterhofplatz § 044
4 ¢ Sun ∑ oldcrow.ch 211 41 00 # Nov–Mar: themes, and a different colour
10am–4pm daily; Apr–Oct: predominates in each. The
Widder 10am–6pm daily central window, where green
An extensive wine list is the prevailing colour, depicts
served with an The history of the Women’s scenes from the life of Christ.
innovative menu. Minster goes back to 853, It is flanked by a blue window
C2 ⌂ Widdergasse 6 when King Ludwig the with a design inspired by the
∑ widderhotel.com German made his daughter visions of Jacob, and a yellow
Hildegard the abbess of a window known as the Zion
convent here. The convent window, which featur es King
Tales Bar was dissolved during the David and the New Jerusalem.
Creative and bespoke Reformation, and the site is The rosette in the south
cocktails, plus live music occupied by the Stadthaus, a transept, illustrating the
C2 ⌂ Selnaustrassse Neo-Gothic building that is Creation, was also designed
29 ¢ Sun ∑ tales-bar.ch now used for exhibitions. by Chagall. The north transept
The church, however, has a window with a giant
Raygrodski Bar survives. It has a mid-13th- vision of Paradise created by
Buzzy with a hipsterish century presbytery in the late Augusto Gia cometti and
vibe, this laid-back spot Romanesque style, an early installed in 1940.
is named after the Swiss Gothic transept and a nave The Romanesque cloisters
sexual reformer. that has been remodelled on the south side of the
several times. The Neo-Gothic church are decor ated with
A2 ⌂ Sihlfeldstrasse
49 ¢ Sun ∑ raygrod façade was added in 1911. frescoes executed by Paul
ski.ch The presbytery is lit by Bodmer in 1923–32. They
five stained-glass windows tell the story of the convent’s
designed by Marc Chagall foundation and illustrate the
(1887–1985) and made in lives of Felix and Regula, the
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patron saints of Zürich, and Construction of the present Bellevueplatz in the south and
of the city’s legendary links basilica began in about 1100, the Bahnhofbrücke in the
with Emperor Charlemagne. and the west towers were north. The most interesting
The emperor is said to have eventually completed in the stretch of Limmatquai is its
founded Zürich when he dis late 15th century. southern section, lined with
covered the graves of Felix It was from the pulpit of the guild houses, which have
and Regula, who deserted a Grossmünster that the human been converted into shops
Roman legion in the Valais ist Ulrich Zwingli preached the or restaurants.
and who were martyred for Reformation. In line with Among the finest of these
their Christian faith. reformist ideals, the minster houses are Haus zur Saffran
was stripped of its furnishings at No 54, dating from around
and decoration, so that the 1720; Haus zur Rüden at
12 interior is now almost No 42, dating from the 17th
century; and the adjoining
completely bare. However,
Grossmünster vestiges of Gothic frescoes as Haus zur Zimmerleuten, an
well as the fine Romanesque 18thcentury building with
C3 ⌂ Grossmünsterplatz capitals of the nave survive. a colourful oriel window.
# Cloister and church: Mar–
Oct: 10am–6pm daily; Nov– The Grossmünster’s large
Feb: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, crypt contains a 15thcentury
noon–5pm Sun; tower: Mar– statue of Charlemagne, which 15 \-=
originally graced the south
Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Sat, Niederdorf
12:30–5:30pm Sun; Nov– tower. (The present statue on
Feb: 10am–4:30pm Mon– the tower is a replica.) Other C2
Sat, 12:30–4:30pm Sun notable features are its Consisting of a dense network
Romanesque portal, with a
∑ grossmuenster.ch
bronze door (1935), and of cobbled alleys leading
The tall twin towers of the stainedglass windows by towards Limmatquai, this
Grossmünster, or Great Augusto Giacometti (1932). small district constitutes
Minster, dominate Zürich’s the heart of the Old Town’s
skyline from the east bank eastern section. The main
of the Limmat. According to artery through this historic
legend, Charlemagne founded 13 ' district is Niederdor fstrasse,
a church here in the late 8th Rathaus a pedestrianized thoroughfare
to early 9th century, on the C2 ⌂ Limmatquai 55 that turns into Münstergasse
graves of Felix and Regula. # Only via guided tours: 10– to the south. Niederdorf’s
After they were killed at the 11:30am Tue & Thu (book narrow alleys are lined with
site of the Wasserkirche, one month in advance) antiques shops and art gal
these martyrs are said to ∑ kantonsrat.zh.ch leries, as well as small hotels,
have carried their heads cafés, restaurants, beer halls
up the hill to the spot now Zürich’s town hall was built on and fastfood outlets.
marked by the Grossmünster. piles driven into the riverbed,
and the waters of the Limmat
flow beneath the platform on
DADA which it stands. The twostorey
building dates from 1694–8.
The avant-garde artistic
movement Dada came The façade is ornamented
to prominence in Zürich with friezes featuring masks,
in around 1916, as an the windows crowned with
anarchic reaction to the broken pediments filled with
senseless carnage of busts. The marble door way
World War I. The focus has gilt decoration. One of its
of the movement was most impressive rooms is the
the Cabaret Voltaire in Baroque council chamber.
Zürich and among its
main exponents were
Tristan Tzara, Hans Arp
and Francis Picabia. 14 \-=
Dada’s aim was to flout Limmatquai
convention and the C2
traditions of the artis-
tic establishment This riverside boulevard A narrow cobbled street
through irony. follows the east bank of the in the picturesque old
Limmat, running between the quarter of Niederdorf
169
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16 STREET PARADE
Eidgenössische
Technische The city’s single biggest
Hochschule event, drawing over a
million fans, the Street
D2 ⌂ Rämistrasse 101 Parade (www.street
∑ ethz.ch parade.com) is the
biggest techno music
The Federal Institute of
festival in the world. It
EXPERIENCE Zürich founded in 1855, and today Sunday in August. The
Technology, or ETH, was
takes place every second
it is one of the most highly
theme is “culture of
regarded universities in the
tolerance”. There are 30
mobile stages and 8
world. It occupies a Neo-
Renaissance building designed
is even an “Antiparade”
by Gottfried Semper, a
for techno fans who think
prominent German architect concert platforms. There
who was also the institute’s the main festival has
first professor of architecture. sold-out of the music’s
The architecture of the core values.
building is of interest in its
own right, as is the displays
from the eclectic Graphische Thomas-Mann-Archiv towns and villages. Zürichsee’s
Sammlung (Graphic Collection) Schönberggasse 15 # 10am– clear blue waters are unpol-
of drawings and graphic art 5pm Mon–Fri ∑ tma.ethz.ch luted and there are numerous
and the temporary exhi- beaches and swimming areas
bitions that often fill its along the shoreline.
corridors. The ETH also owns 17
the Thomas-Mann-Archiv, in ZSG
a building nearby. The archive Zürichsee ⌂ Mythenquai 333 § 044
is the entire literary legacy of C4 487 13 33
this great German writer, who
died in Zürich in August 1955. This beautiful glacial lake
The terrace of the ETH stretches in a 40-km (25-mile) 18
building commands a arc from Zürich to the foot
magnificent view of the city. of the Glarner Alps, at its Opernhaus
Located just to the north of eastern tip. Many boat trips, C3 ⌂ Falkenstrasse 1
the ETH is the upper station run by such companies as ∑ opernhaus.ch
of the Polybahn, a funicular ZSG, depart from the city.
that runs down to Central, a Ranging from short trips to Zürich’s Neo-Baroque opera
large square on the east side half- and full-day cruises, they house stages a world-class
of the Bahnhofbrücke. take in several lakeshore programme of operas and
The beautiful blue
waters of the
serene Zürichsee
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ballets. It was designed by the
Viennese architects Hermann
Helmer and Ferdinand Fellner
and completed in 1891. The
elegant façade is fronted by
two tiers of columns and a
balcony framed by porticoes.
19 "
Zürichhorn Park
D5
This pleasant park contains
sculptures by well-known
modern artists. At the south-
ern end is a large kinetic
sculp ture that Jean Tinguely
created for Expo 64 in is displayed in two villas Exhibits on display at
Lausanne; enti tled Heureka, (covered by a single entry the Villa Wesendonck,
it is set in motion from April ticket) linked by extensive Museum Rietberg
to October at 11.15am and underground exhibition
5.15pm daily. areas. Villa Wesendonck, a
In the eastern part of the Neo-Classical mansion in public by appointment
park high walls enclose the which the composer Richard only on the first Sunday
Chinagarten. This Chinese Wagner once stayed, houses of the month.
garden, laid out in 1994, was a the main collection. This
gift from the city of Kunming, consists of wooden, bronze
and is filled with plants, build- and ceramic objects from 22
ings and objects typical of a Africa, India, Tibet, China,
Chinese formal garden. Japan, and other Southeast Städtische Sukku
Bordering the park, on Asian countries. The neigh- lentenSammlung
Höschgasse, is the Atelier bouring Park-Villa Rieter is B5 ⌂ Mythenquai 88
Hermann Haller, the studio of devoted to Asian art. Two # 9am–4:30pm daily
this Swiss sculptor. Designed floors of the house are filled ∑ stadt-zuerich.ch/
by Haller (1880–1950), it is a with changing selections of sukkulenten
rare example of wooden Indian, Chinese and Japanese
Bauhaus architecture. Next to prints and paintings. Comprising more than 8,000
it is the Pavillon Le Corbusier, species of cactuses, spurges,
closed for restoration until agaves, aloes and other
summer 2019. succulents, this collection,
21 " founded in 1931, is one of the
Chinagarten Sammlung E G Bührle largest of its kind in Europe.
# Mid-Mar–mid-Oct: 11am– E5 ⌂ Zollikerstrasse 172 Amazing succulents from
7pm daily. every arid region of the world,
∑ buehrle.ch
from giant agaves to the
Atelier Hermann Haller A small but well-curated tiniest cactuses, are found
Höschgasse 6 § 044 383 42 collection of Impressionist here in a fascinating display.
47 # Jul–Sep: 1–6pm Fri–Sun. and Post-Impressionist paint-
ings, including works by
Delacroix, Courbet, Corot, INSIDER TIP
Monet, Degas and Van Gogh, Thermalbad
20 "'- is housed in a mansion south and Spa Zurich
Museum Rietberg of Zürichhorn Park. The collec- Bathe in wooden vats
tion was formed by the Swiss in this former brewery,
B4 ⌂ Gablerstrasse 15 industrialist Emil G Bührle turned spa, not far from
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to
8pm Wed) ∑ rietberg.ch between 1934 and 1956 and Museum Rietberg
was opened to the public after (www.thermalbad-
The vast assemblage of his death in 1965. Pending an zuerich.ch). The water is
ethnographic pieces and as-yet-undetermined move drawn from the legend-
artifacts that make up the to the Kunsthaus Zürich, the ary “Aqui” springs.
collections of this museum collection is open to the
171
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4th July 2018
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Looking across the Swiss plateau from Mount Rigi
NORTHERN
SWITZERLAND
Bordered by the Rhine to the north and the Jura to
the southwest, this relatively flat area was settled
by the Celts around 450 BC. By 44 BC, the Romans,
attracted by the trade oppor tunities opened by
the Rhine, founded the town of Augusta Raurica,
in the area east of what is now Basel, and soon
spread westwards. On the banks of the Rhine,
this port town soon became a centre of commerce,
developing a wealthy merchant class. At the
behest of a Papal bull, Basel Council established
Switzerland’s oldest university here, in 1460, to
educate its wealthy sons. Around this time, Baden,
to the east, had become an ad hoc capital city for
the expanding Swiss Confederation, and the
regular meeting place for the executive council.
A popular spa town since Roman times, thanks
to its natural thermal springs, Baden’s reputation
as a resort began to spread in the 15th century.
Refugees of the War of Religion brought trade
and industry to the flourishing northern cantons
throughout the 1500s, and, by the 19th century,
northern Switzerland was industrial ized, and had
become the country’s most populated region.
173
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NORTHERN SWITZERLAND 0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 10 10 10 N 10 N
0 miles
0 miles
Must Sees 9 Muri Blumberg Blumberg
1 Basel 10 Kloster Königsfelden Bonndorf Bonndorf
2 Baden 11 Wettingen
3 Winterthur 12 Regensberg
GERMAN YY
13 Kaiserstuhl GERMAN
Experience More 14 Eglisau
4 Riehen Blasien Blasien Stuhlingen Stuhlingen Radolfzell Radolfzell
Sankt
Sankt
5 Augusta Raurica
Schaffhausen
6 Zofingen Schaffhausen Rhein Rhein
7 Dornach Rheinfall Rheinfall
8 Aarau Stein am Rhein
Stein am Rhein
Gorwihl Gorwihl
EASTERN
Tiengen
Waldshut Waldshut Tiengen Rhein Rhein EASTERN
SWITZERLAND
Ossingen Ossingen SWITZERLAND
Wehr Wehr
Lörrach Lörrach
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
Koblenz Koblenz Andelfing Andelfingenen Thur Thur AND GRAUBÜNDEN
EGLISAU EGLISAU p238 p238
Zurzach Zurzach
RIEHEN RIEHEN Rhein Rhein Laufenburg Henggart Henggart
Laufenburg
KAISERSTUHL
Etzgen Etzgen KAISERSTUHL
Frauenfeld
FR ANCE
FR ANCE BASEL BASEL Birsfelden Birsfelden Rheinfelden Aare Aare Rorbas Rorbas Frauenfeld
Rheinfelden
Allschwil Allschwil AUGUSTA Lengnau Lengnau Bülach Bülach Wülflingen
AUGUSTA
WINTERTHUR
Wülflingen
RAURICA
RAURICA Effingen Effingen WINTERTHUR
Münchenstein
Münchenstein
REGENSBERG
Pratteln Pratteln Frick Frick BADEN BADEN REGENSBERG ZÜRICH Kollbrunn Kollbrunn
ZÜRICH
Reinach Reinach Brugg Brugg Zürich International
Zürich International
Gelterkinden
WETTINGEN
DORNACH Liestal Liestal Gelterkinden Herznach Herznach WETTINGEN Airport Airport
DORNACH
KLOSTER
Sissach Sissach KLOSTER Kloten Kloten Wila Wila
KÖNIGSFELDEN Regensdorf
KÖNIGSFELDENRegensdorf
Wallisellen
Wallisellen Illnau Illnau
B ASEL -L AND-L AND
Zwingen Zwingen B ASEL Küttigen Küttigen Wildegg Wildegg AAR GAU Dietikon Dietikon Dübendorf Fehraltorf Fehraltorf Saland Saland
AAR GAU
Aare
Aare
Dübendorf
Oberdorf Oberdorf Schlieren Schlieren
Laufen Laufen Lenzburg Lenzburg Zürich Zürich Bauma Bauma
Waldenburg
Waldenburg AARAU AARAU
Niedergösgen Suhr Suhr Bremgarten Greifen- Greifen- Uster
Niedergösgen
Bremgarten
Uster
see
see
Wohlen Wohlen Adliswil Adliswil Küsnacht Küsnacht Wetzikon Wetzikon
Oberentfel Oberentfeldenden
Teufenthal Teufenthal Boniswil Boniswil Thalwil Thalwil Egg Egg Hinwil Hinwil
Olten Olten Reuss Reuss
WESTERN
WESTERN MITTELLAND, Affoltern Affoltern Horgen Meilen Meilen Wald Wald
MITTELLAND,
Horgen
Hallwilersee MURI
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND BERNESE OBERLAND Oftringen Oftringen Safenwil Safenwil Hallwilersee MURI Rüti Rüti
BERNESE OBERLAND
Moosleerau
p126 p126 AND VALAIS Moosleerau Stäfa Stäfa
AND VALAIS
ZOFINGEN
p80 p80 ZOFINGEN Reinach Reinach Mettmenstettten Wädenswil Rapperswill
Mettmenstettten
Rapperswill
Wädenswil
Zürichsee Zürichsee
Richterswil
Richterswil Pfäffikon Pfäffikon
Solothurn Solothurn Langenthal
Langenthal
Sins Sins
Cham Cham
Hochdorf Hochdorf Zugersee Zugersee
Sempacher Sempacher
See See
Einsiedeln Einsiedeln
CENTRAL
CENTRAL
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
LUZERN
LUZERN Rotkreuz Rotkreuz AND TICINO
AND TICINO
Huttwil Huttwil
p198 p198
Arth Arth
Wolhusen
NORTHERN Wolhusen Wolhusen Lucerne Lucerne Goldau Goldau Wolhusen
NORTHERN
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SCHW YZYZ
Luthern Luthern SCHW
Vierwaldstätterseeersee
Horw Horw Vierwaldstätt
Brunnen Brunnen
Schüpfheim
Schüpfheim
Hergiswil Hergiswil
Emme
Emme
Flüelen Flüelen
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Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 10 10 N N
0 miles 0 miles 10 10
Blumberg Blumberg
Bonndorf Bonndorf
GERMAN YY
GERMAN
Sankt Sankt Stuhlingen Stuhlingen Radolfzell Radolfzell
Blasien Blasien
Schaffhausen
Schaffhausen
Rhein Rhein
Rheinfall Rheinfall
Stein am Rhein
Stein am Rhein
Gorwihl Gorwihl
EASTERN
Tiengen
Waldshut Waldshut Tiengen Rhein Rhein EASTERN
SWITZERLAND
Ossingen Ossingen SWITZERLAND
Wehr Wehr
AND GRAUBÜNDEN
Lörrach Lörrach
Koblenz Koblenz Andelfing Andelfingenen Thur Thur AND GRAUBÜNDEN
EGLISAU EGLISAU p238 p238
Zurzach Zurzach
RIEHEN RIEHEN Rhein Rhein Laufenburg Henggart Henggart
Laufenburg
KAISERSTUHL
Etzgen Etzgen KAISERSTUHL
FR ANCE
FR ANCE BASEL BASEL Birsfelden Rheinfelden Aare Aare Rorbas Rorbas Frauenfeld Frauenfeld
Rheinfelden
Birsfelden
Allschwil Allschwil AUGUSTA Lengnau Lengnau Bülach Bülach Wülflingen
AUGUSTA
WINTERTHUR
Wülflingen
RAURICA Effingen Effingen WINTERTHUR
RAURICA
Münchenstein
Münchenstein
REGENSBERG
Pratteln Pratteln Frick Frick BADEN BADEN REGENSBERG ZÜRICH Kollbrunn Kollbrunn
ZÜRICH
Reinach Reinach Brugg Brugg Zürich International
Zürich International
Gelterkinden
WETTINGEN
DORNACH
DORNACH Liestal Liestal Gelterkinden Herznach Herznach WETTINGEN Airport Airport
KLOSTER
Sissach Sissach KLOSTER Kloten Kloten Wila Wila
KÖNIGSFELDEN Regensdorf
KÖNIGSFELDENRegensdorf
Wallisellen
Wallisellen Illnau Illnau
B ASEL -L AND-L AND
Zwingen Zwingen B ASEL Küttigen Küttigen Wildegg Wildegg AAR GAU Dietikon Dietikon Dübendorf Fehraltorf Fehraltorf Saland Saland
AAR GAU
Aare
Aare
Dübendorf
Oberdorf Oberdorf Schlieren Schlieren
Laufen Laufen Lenzburg Lenzburg Zürich Zürich Bauma Bauma
Waldenburg
Waldenburg AARAU AARAU
Niedergösgen
Bremgarten
Niedergösgen Suhr Suhr Bremgarten Greifen- Greifen- Uster
Uster
see
see
Wohlen Wohlen Adliswil Adliswil Küsnacht Küsnacht Wetzikon Wetzikon
Oberentfel Oberentfeldenden
Teufenthal Teufenthal Boniswil Boniswil Thalwil Thalwil Egg Egg Hinwil Hinwil
Olten Olten Reuss Reuss
WESTERN MITTELLAND, Affoltern Affoltern Horgen Meilen Meilen Wald Wald
WESTERN
MITTELLAND,
Horgen
SWITZERLAND BERNESE OBERLAND Oftringen Oftringen Safenwil Safenwil Hallwilersee Hallwilersee MURI MURI Rüti Rüti
SWITZERLAND
BERNESE OBERLAND
Moosleerau
p126 p126 AND VALAIS Moosleerau Stäfa Stäfa
AND VALAIS
ZOFINGEN
p80 p80 ZOFINGEN Reinach Reinach Mettmenstettten Wädenswil Wädenswil Rapperswill
Mettmenstettten
Rapperswill
Zürichsee
Zürichsee
Richterswil
Richterswil Pfäffikon Pfäffikon
Solothurn Solothurn Langenthal
Langenthal
Sins Sins
Cham Cham
Hochdorf Hochdorf Zugersee Zugersee
Sempacher Sempacher
See See
Einsiedeln Einsiedeln
CENTRAL
CENTRAL
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
LUZERN
LUZERN Rotkreuz Rotkreuz AND TICINO
AND TICINO
Huttwil Huttwil
p198 p198
Arth Arth
Wolhusen
NORTHERN Wolhusen Wolhusen Lucerne Lucerne Goldau Goldau Wolhusen
NORTHERN
SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SCHW YZYZ
Luthern Luthern SCHW
Vierwaldstätterseeersee
Horw Horw Vierwaldstätt
Brunnen Brunnen
Schüpfheim
Schüpfheim
Hergiswil Hergiswil
Emme
Emme
Flüelen Flüelen
174-175_EW_Switzerland.indd 175 15/11/2018 10:08
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland Basel's riverside Old Town
under the towering
presence of the cathedral
Nietzsche (1844–1900). The
1 \-= present university build ing is
BASEL the Kollegienhaus, a great
Modernist edifice on the east
side of Petersplatz, com pleted
in 1946. The entrance to the
! C2 ⌂ 76 km (48 miles) W of Zurich n Stadtcasino,
Barfüsserplatz, Steinenberg 4, Bahnhof Basel SBB building is embellished with
train station, www.basel.com mosaics depicting the univer
sity’s founders, and the main
Mention the city of Basel and most people today hall has stained glass windows.
will think of industry or art. Straddling the Rhine,
Mittlere
this city of con trasts is the country’s only port and HEBELSTRASSE Rheinbrücke CLARAGRABEN
as such is a major centre of industry, with a long 3 BERNOULLISTR. R HEI N G A S S E R EB G A SS E RHEINFELDERSTR.
UTENGASSE
history of pharmaceuti cal expertise. The city is also Spalentor PETERS- Pharmazie- Martinskirche O B E R E R R H E I N W E G
Kleinbasel
historisches
one of Switzerland’s most cultured cities, hosting Art Botanischer PLATZ Museum Basel RIEHENTOR- GREN ZACHERSTR.
Garten
Basel, the world’s largest contemporary art fair. It is ⌂ Spalenvorstadt PETERSGRABEN Marktplatz Rh ein STRASSE
also famous for its festivals, the largest of which, This monumental Gothic Universität NADELBERG S C HNEIDER- GASSE Rathaus Naturhistorisches WETTSTEIN- BRÜCKE Museum Tinguely
800 m (870 yd)
Museum
Fasnacht, is an exuberant masked carnival. gate stands at the entrance Spalentor
Museum
to Spalenvorstadt, a narrow Jüdisches SPALENBERG MUNZ GASSE der Kulturen Augustinergasse SCHAFFHAUSERRHEINWEG
Museum MÜNSTER-
der Schweiz PLATZ
Switzerland after Geneva. HE UBERG Basel Münster Wettstein-
1 "'= The first Zionist Congress SCHÜTZEN- LEONHARDSGRABEN GERBE RGASSE FALKNERSTR. FREIE STRASSE brücke
GRABEN
Jüdisches Museum took place in Basel, in 1897. HOLBEIN- STREIT- MÜNSTERBERG RITTERG.
PLATZ
GASSE
der Schweiz EULERSTRASSE Leonhardskirche BARFÜSSER- Historisches Antikenmuseum ST AL B A N - R HE I N WEG St Alban
PLATZ
⌂ Kornhausgasse 8 LEIMENSTRASSE Museum MÜHLENBERG St Alban
# 1–4pm Mon–Fri, 11am– 2 Spielzeug Welten STEINENBERG Kunstmuseum ST ALBAN-VORSTADT Kirche
Basel
Museum Basel
5pm Sun ∑ juedisches- Universität ST E I N EN G R AB EN Architekturmuseum
museum.ch A U S T R A S S E Kunsthalle MA L ZGA SS E
⌂ Petersplatz 1 STEINENVORSTADT Stadttheater D U FO U RSTR .
Through a variety of artifacts AESCHENVORSTADT
dating back to the 13th cen Founded in 1460, Basel's BY FANGW EG BIRSIG-PA RKPLATZ S T A L B A N - A N L A G E
tury, including liturgical objects, univer sity is the oldest in the HOLBEI NSTRASSE Haus zum AESCHEN- HARDSTRASSE
the museum illustrates Jewish coun try. Among the illustrious PLATZ
religion and customs, and the figures with whom it is associ B IR S I G ST R ASSE ELISABE T H E NSTR. Kirschgarten L A N G E G A S S E
history and daily life of this ated are the human ist Erasmus VIADUKTSTRASSE A E S C H E N G R A B E N
INNERE
community. It is the only Jewish of Rotterdam (1466–1536), MARGARETHENSTR. ST JAKOBS-STRASSE ENGELGASSE
museum in Switzerland. The the mathematician Jakob The Gothic crenallated
Jewish population in Basel Bernoulli (1654–1705) and turrets framing the old GA RT ENSTR A S S E
BI N NIN G ER ST R A S S E
is the second largest in the philosopher Friedrich city gates, the Spalentor Zoologischer NAUENSTRASSE 0 metres 400 N
Garten BAHNHOF-
PLATZ
Basel
176 Station 0 yards 400
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Must See
alley lined with picturesque largest of its kind in Europe.
shut tered houses, on the Most of the exhibits date from
west side of the Old Town the late 19th to the early 20th teddy bears and a variety of
(Altstadt). Built in 1370, the centuries, although there are other stuffed animals made
Spalentor formed part of also some contemporary by leading toymakers of today
the defensive walls that once pieces displayed as well. All and yesterday.
encircled Basel. The tower the doll’s houses and mini Even if you don’t have time
consists of a pair of crenel ature shops on display are to go in, the museum is always
lated turrets framing a square meticulously decorated and worth a visit – the spectacular
central section, which has a furnished. The collection also window displays are an event
pointed roof laid with glazed includes mechanical models, in themselves.
red, black and white tiles.
The gate, which has wood en
doors and a port cullis, is
embellished with sculp tures
and on its west side it bears
the arms of the city.
4 "'\=
Spielzeug Welten
Museum Basel
⌂ Steinenvorstadt 1
# 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
(daily in Dec) ∑ spielzeug-
welten-museum-basel.ch
With more than 6,000 items
laid out on four floors, the Toy A mannequin and a bicycle on display in
Worlds Museum in Basel is the the Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel
Mittlere CLARAGRABEN
Rheinbrücke R HEI N G A S S E R EB GA SS E RHEINFELDERSTR.
HEBELSTRASSE
BERNOULLISTR.
UTENGASSE
Pharmazie- Kleinbasel
Botanischer PETERS- historisches Martinskirche O B E R E R R H E I N W E G
PLATZ
Garten Museum Basel Marktplatz R h e in RIEHENTOR- STRASSE GREN ZACHERSTR.
Universität PETERSGRABEN NADELBERG S C HNEIDER- GASSE Rathaus Naturhistorisches WETTSTEIN- BRÜCKE Museum Tinguely
Spalentor Museum 800 m (870 yd)
Museum Augustinergasse
Jüdisches SPALENBERG MUNZ GASSE der Kulturen SCHAFFHAUSERRHEINWEG
Museum MÜNSTER-
der Schweiz LEONHARDSGRABEN PLATZ Basel Münster Wettstein-
brücke
H E UBE RG
SCHÜTZEN-
HOLBEIN- GERBE RGASSE FALKNERSTR. FREIE STRASSE MÜNSTERBERG RITTERG.
GRABEN
PLATZ STREIT- ST AL B A N - R HE I N WEG
GASSE
LEIMENSTRASSE Leonhardskirche BARFÜSSER- Historisches Antikenmuseum MÜHLENBERG St Alban St Alban
PLATZ
Museum
EULERSTRASSE
Spielzeug Welten
Basel
Museum Basel STEINENBERG Kunstmuseum ST ALBAN-VORSTADT Kirche
Architekturmuseum M A LZG A S S E
Kunsthalle
STEINENVORSTADT Stadttheater D U FO U RSTR .
A U S T R A S S E
BY FA N GW EG HOLBEI NSTRASSE BIRSIG-PA RKPLATZ Haus zum AESCHENVORSTADT AESCHEN- S T A L B A N - A N L A G E HARDSTRASSE
ST E I N EN G R AB EN
B I R S I G ST R ASS E ELISABE T H E NSTR. Kirschgarten PLATZ L A N G E G A S S E
MARGARETHENSTR. A E S C H E N G R A B E N ST JAKOBS-STRASSE ENGELGASSE
INNERE
VIADUKTSTRASSE
BI N NIN G ER ST R AS S E BAHNHOF- 0 metres 400 N
Zoologischer NAUENSTRASSE GARTE N ST R AS SE
Garten Station PLATZ 0 yards 400
Basel
176-181_EW_Switzerland.indd 177 14/11/2018 16:12
great early civilizations of the becomes the hub of Basel’s
5 "' Mediterranean basin – ancient seasonal festivals. The square
Pharmazie- Greece, Etruria, Rome and is lined with fine buil dings
historisches Egypt. The Greek pieces dat ing from the late 19th
Museum Basel include a fine collection of to the early 20th centuries.
vases from the Archaic to Just to the northeast of
⌂ Totengäslein 3 # 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun ∑ pharmazie the Classical periods, marble the Marktplatz is Mittlere
museum.ch sculpture, bronze figurines, Rheinbrücke. Near the bridge
is a curious, bearded figure, the
pottery, coins and jewellery.
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland museum devoted to the his impressive. A programme amusing 19thcentury mech
Lällekönig (Tongue King), which
Appropriately for one of the
The collections of Etruscan
has become the symbol of
world’s centres of the pharma
pottery and Roman and
Basel. It is a static replica of an
ceuticals industry, Basel has a
Egyptian art are equally
ani cal fig ure that rolled its eyes
of wellcurated special exhi
tory of medi cinal chemistry.
and stuck out its tongue at
Among its collection are instru
bitions is regularly updated.
passers by. The original figure
ments and medicines used by
is in the Historisches Museum.
apoth ecaries through the
ages, and it is located in the
7 \-=
house where Erasmus and
Marktplatz
Paracelsus once lived. There
are also reconstruc tions of a
⌂ Kornhausgasse 8 § 061
Leonhardskirche
pharmacy and a laboratory.
261 95 14 # 2–5pm Mon &
⌂ Kohlenberg # 9am–5pm
Wed, 11am–5pm Sun 8
Tue–Sat
Every weekday morning,
6 "'\= Marktplatz is filled with the The church of St Leonard
Antikenmuseum stalls of a produce market, overlooks the city from its
and on public holidays it hilltop location. It stands on
⌂ St Alban-Graben
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
∑ antikenmuseum.ch
Every weekday morning the Marktplatz
Basel’s comprehensive is filled with the stalls of a produce market,
museum of antiquities covers
over 5,000 years of history, and on public holidays it becomes the hub
and is devoted to the four of Basel’s seasonal festivals.
Basel's bustling
Marktplatz, with stalls
setting up for market day
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Must See
the site of an 11th-century
church, whose Romanesque
crypt survives. After the 1356
earthquake that destroyed
much of Basel, the church was
rebuilt in the Gothic style. The
interior features 15th- and
16th-century Gothic paintings
and an exquisite rood screen
from 1455.
9 "'\=
Historisches Museum BASEL FASNACHT
Starting in early morning darkness, Basel gets turned
⌂ Barfüsserplatz # 10am– upside down for die drey scheenschte Dääg (“the three
5pm Tue–Sun ∑ hmb.ch
most beautiful days”) of the year. During Switzerland’s
The headquarters of three biggest carnival, a sea of illuminated lanterns and
separate history museums, thousands of costumed music-makers and masked
this collection occupies the Fasnächtler (participants) pour through the city
Barfüsserkirche, a former streets for parties, parades and music.
Franciscan church. The
Historisches Museum traces
Basel’s history from its begin- q "'=
nings as a Celtic settle ment. w "'=
Ex hibits include pottery, silver- Architekturmuseum Haus zum
mounted ves sels, wooden ⌂ Steinenberg 7 # 11am– Kirschgarten
chests and Gothic, Renaissance 6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 11am– ⌂ Elisabethenstrasse 27–
and Baroque liturgical vessels, 8:30pm Thu, 11am–5pm Sat 29 # 10am–5pm Tue–Fri &
as well as other items from & Sun ∑ sam-basel.org Sun, 1–5pm Sat ∑ hmb.ch
the cathe dral treasury. There
are also tapestries, altarpieces The Kunsthalle also houses This Rococo mansion, built
and weapons on display. Switzerland’s museum of archi- in 1775–80, was the resi dence
tecture. This museum seeks to of J R Burckhardt, the owner
expand people’s perceptions of a silk mill. Furnished in
of architecture and urban period style, it now houses
0 "'\= dev elopment, concentrating an absorbing museum that
Kunsthalle primarily on the archi tecture illustrates patri cian life in the
of the early 20th cen tury 18th and 19th centu ries. On
⌂ Klostergasse 5 # 11am– onwards, with an array of the first and sec ond floors
6pm Tue, Wed & Fri, 11am–
8:30pm Thu, 11am–5pm well-considered displays in there are ele gantly furnished
Sat & Sun ∑ kunsthalle Neo-Baroque rooms. draw ing rooms, a din-
basel.ch The Architecture ing room, a music salon
Museum also hosts and a kitchen. The top
Thanks to the Kunsthalle, Basel temporary exhi bitions, floor contains a display
is a well-established fore runner usually four per year, of rocking horses and
in the world of modern art. which show case the other toys. The ground
One of the city’s most promi- work of Swiss arch- floor and basement are
nent cultural institutions, the itects, and of filled with a superb col-
Kunsthalle hosts a rolling pro- international archi- lection of ceram ics,
gramme of exhibitions of work tecture, as well including Italian faÏence,
by lead ing contemporary art- as related subjects clocks and fine porce-
ists. The Kunsthalle is located such as architectural lain made at major
opposite the Theater Basel, photography, the European facto ries.
an other in stitution in the effect of acoustics
city’s cultural hub. Between on the design of a
the two buildings stands a building and the
fountain that incorporates links between art Ornately
several of Jean Tinguely’s and arch itecture. decorated 18th-
kinetic sculptures with moving There is also a century clock in
elements, created in a style programme of public the Haus zum
known as metamechanics. workshops and lectures. Kirschgarten
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and palaeon tology. Around painted with frescoes from
the corner is the Museum the 16th century, though they
der Kulturen, set in a building are heavily restored. Tours in
crowned with a shim mering many languages, including
fishscale roof that was desig- English, can be arranged
ned by Basel archi tects Herzog through the tourist office.
& de Meuron. This anthro-
pology museum examines t \-=
cultures from around the
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland A visitor looking at a from Tikal, the ancient Mayan The district of St Alban takes
world. Among the finest
St Alban
pieces are wooden reliefs
site in Guatemala.
its name from the church of
a former Benedictine mon-
Naturhistorisches
astery founded in the 11th
Museum
century. The canal that runs
"'- ⌂ Augustinergasse
through this attractive dis trict
2 # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
was used to power the mon-
Papua New Guinean
∑ nmbs.ch
as tery’s mills. One of these,
mask of initiation at the
Museum der Kulturen
Museum der Kulturen
houses a museum of paper,
writing and printing. Visitors
"'- ⌂ Münsterplatz 20
can watch paper being made
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
by hand. The Museum für
∑ mkb.ch the Basler Papiermühle, now
e \-= Gegenwartskunst (Museum
Augustinergasse of Contemporary Art), a short
Augustinergasse is a pretty dis tance from the mill, show-
little alley that runs north r ' cases contemporary art.
from Münsterplatz, along Rathaus
the escarpment on the south ⌂ Marktplatz 9 Basler Papiermühle
side of the Rhine. As well as "'- ⌂ St Alban-Tal 37
a Renaissance fountain with a The main feature of Basel’s # 11am–5pm Tue–Fri & Sun,
figure of a basilisk, the street Marktplatz is the eye-catching 1–5pm Sat ∑ papier
contains several fine 14th- and Rathaus, the Gothic town museum.ch
15th-century houses. hall with a bright red façade
The handsome Neo-Classical decorated with allegorical Museum für
building at No 2 houses the figures. The central arcaded Gegenwartskunst
Naturhistorisches Museum, section of the building dates "'- ⌂ St Alban-
which contains an extensive from 1504–21, while the tower Rheinweg 60 # 11am–
collection of miner als, and has and annexe date from the 19th 5pm Tue–Sun ∑ kunst
sec tions devoted to zoology century. The inner courtyard is museumbasel.ch
The brightly painted
façade of Basel's eye-
catching Rathaus
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Must See
A visitor interacting with
one of Jean Tinguely's
kinetic sculptures
however, the area has been
y \-= gentrified and it now buzzes
Kleinbasel with trendy galleries, cafés
The first permanent bridge and restaurants. Did You Know?
over the Rhine at Basel was
built here in 1226. A small Jean Tinguely created
fortress was subsequently his first piece of kinetic
established on the north u "'\= art when he was
12 years old.
bank, and the settle ment Museum Tinguely
that grew up around it ⌂ Paul-Sacher Anlage 2
became part of the city in # 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
the late 14th century. For ∑ tinguely.ch
centuries, Kleinbasel – which Niki de SaintPhalle. These
translates as “Lesser Basel” – This pale pink sandstone pieces, along with many later
was inhabited mainly by the building, designed by the gifts, bequests and purchases,
poorer sector of the city’s Swiss architect Mario Botta, allow visitors to trace Tinguely’s
population. In recent years, stands in Solitude Park, on artistic development.
the banks of the Rhine. The While various enginedriven
mu seum is devoted to the work contrap tions that visitors can
INSIDER TIP of Jean Tinguely, famous for set in motion occupy the
Museum Pass his kinetic sculptures and inter mezzanine, the upper floor
Valid for a full year, the active drawing machines. is home to various items
Museum Pass is a good Born in Fribourg in 1925, he asso ciated with Tinguely.
option if you plan to was edu cated in Basel. He later The central exhibit on the
visit a few of Basel's 37 set tled in New York in 1960, ground floor is a huge sculp
museums. The pass also but in 1968 he returned to his ture, Tinguely’s Grosse Méta
gets you into castles, native country, where he lived Maxi-Maxi Utopia (1987). The
mu seums, gardens and until his death in 1991. The museum also stages exhibi
parks across Germany, nucleus of the collection con tions concentrating on aspects
France and Switzerland. sists of works by Tinguely, of Tinguely’s work, including
donated by his wife, the artist its Dadaist roots.
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i '
BASEL MÜNSTER
⌂ Rittergasse 3 # 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–4pm
Sat, 11:30am–5pm Sun ∑ baslermuenster.ch
Set on a hill above the Rhine, Basel’s monumental cathedral is
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland to Romanesque and Gothic architecture. 19th-century stained-glass
a conspicuous and majestic presence in the city. With dark red
sandstone walls and patterned roof tiles, it is a vivid monument
The ambulatory is lit by
The church that originally stood on this site
was built in the 8th century, but the present
windows depicting the
cathedral was begun in the 12th century.
Nativity, Crucifixion and
Partly damaged by an earthquake in 1356,
Resurrection of Christ.
it was rebuilt in the Gothic style, although
elements of the earlier building were also
incorporated into the structure. In the 16th
century, as a result of the Reformation, the
adorn the win-
cathedral was stripped of almost all its fur
dows of the choir.
nishings and decoration. However, some fine Carved elephants
Romanesque and Gothic sculptures sur vive,
as does the church’s 19thcentury stained
glass and the beautiful 14thcentury frescoes
in the crypt. On the south side of the cathedral
are peaceful Gothic cloisters, with several
tombs and epitaphs that give this part of the
complex its dignified, contemplative character.
A fine Nativity scene among the
frescoes on the ceiling of the crypt
The magnificent
Romanesque Galluspforte
portal has carvings
depicting Judgment Day
and works of mercy.
On the south side of the cathedral
are peaceful Gothic cloisters, with
several tombs and epitaphs that
The church’s exterior, with its patterned give this part of the complex its
roof atop sturdy sandstone walls dignified, contemplative character.
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Must See
The Georgstrum features
a figure of St George. The
Did You Know? lower levels formed part of
whiter stonework at its
The hill on which the the 11thcentury church.
church is located was
a Celtic oppidum The
(fortified town) in the Martinstrum
1st century BC. culminates in a
decorative
fleuron com
Intricately carved, pleted in 1500.
the 1486 font
The roof is decorated is an out standing
with green and example of late
yellow tiles. Gothic sculpture.
The late Romanesque
Panel of the Apostles in The Basel Münster,
the north aisle shows a heritage site of
six of the apostles. national significance
183
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o "'\=
KUNSTMUSEUM
BASEL
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland The prestigious Kunstmuseum Basel is the largest art museum
⌂ St Alban-Graben 16 # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (to 8pm Thu)
∑ kunstmuseumbasel.ch
in Switzerland, with an impressive collection of paintings and
sculpture spanning the early 15th century to the modern day.
Ranging from 17th-century Dutch and Flemish paintings,
through 19th-century works by Delacroix and Pissarro, to
ART BASEL
20th-century art, including works by Rousseau, Picasso and
Each year, members of
Dalí, the Kunstmuseum Basel’s collection is vast. The galleries
on the first floor of the museum’s main building are hung
the city for Art Basel.
with works of art from the 15th to 19th centuries, while the
This internationally
second floor is devoted to 20th-century art. Located across
renowned art fair – and
the street from the original 1930s building, a concrete the art world gather in
an absolute highlight of
minimalist extension (connected to the main building by the art calendar – is a
an underground passageway) hosts special exhibitions week-long celebration
and changing displays from the permanent collection. of top modern and
Entry to the museum is free on the first Sunday of contemporary works
every month and also between 5 and 6pm on Tuesday, from around the globe.
Wednesday, Friday and Saturday. There are regular guided
tours, including some in English.
1 2
1 Auguste Rodin’s evocative
bronze Burghers of Calais sculpture
is on display in the Kunstmuseum’s
inner courtyard.
2 The modernist façade of the
Kunstmuseum Basel was designed by
Basel-based architect Rudolf Christ.
3 Dating from 1627, David Presenting
Saul with the Head of Goliath is a small-
scale painting of the well-known
biblical story; it is one of Rembrandt’s
3 earlier works.
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Must See
Did You Know?
The museum contains
the largest collection
of Holbein paintings
in the world.
Inside the Kunstmuseum
Basel, with its colourful
stained-glass windows
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A SHORT WALK Mittlere Rheinbrücke, a
OLD TOWN Rhine, links Grossbasel, on the
stone bridge spanning the
south bank, to Kleinbasel, a
district on the north bank.
Distance 2 km (1 mile) Nearest tram
Schifflände Time 30 minutes
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland bank of the Rhine. The hub of the Old Town is START M A R K T G A S S E E I S E N G A S S E R H E I N S P R U N G
The nucleus of Basel’s medieval Old Town,
or Altstadt, lines the escarpment of the south
Barfüsserplatz, a buzzing square lined with
cafés and crossed by trams, and its major
landmarks are the Basler Münster, Basel’s
great Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, and
the unmistakable Rathaus, the brightly
painted town hall on Marktplatz. With
shopping streets, several churches,
steep alleyways and leafy courtyards,
this is Basel’s busiest district. As many
streets in the Old Town are closed to
motor traffic, it is a pleasant area M A R T I N S G A S S E
to explore on foot. MARK T –
PL ATZ
Dating from the 14th century,
Martinskirche is the oldest
parish church in Basel.
Marktplatz (p178) has
for centuries served G E R B E R G A S S E
as a marketplace.
It is also the hub
of the city’s festivals.
The Rathaus (p180) has a brightly
and elaborately painted façade and
a clock surmounted by figures.
Barfüsserplatz, named FA L K N E R S T R A S S E
after the Discalced, or
barefooted, Franciscans,
is surrounded by buildings S T R E I T G A S S E
dating mostly from the
19th and 20th centuries.
Walking along Mittlere
Rheinbrücke, with its
decorated towers
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The medieval
Basler Münster,
looming over
Munsterplatz
FINISH
Basel’s ethnographic museum, Museum
der Kulturen (p180), contains an
extensive collection, including some
R H E I N S P R U N G
oustanding examples of Pre-Columbian Did You Know?
South American sculpture.
Basler Münster was
destroyed by the Basel
Augustinergasse (p180), a Earthquake in 1356
street lined with picturesque and later rebuilt.
houses and mansions, runs
along the excarpment on the
south bank of the Rhine.
M A R T I N S G A S S E
Basler Münster (p182),
Basel’s magnificent medieval
cathedral, dominates the
A U G U S T I N E R G A S S E
city from an elevated
terrace above the Rhine.
M ü NS TER –
PL ATZ R I T T E R G A S S E
Münsterplatz, the
cathedral square,
overlies the site
S T R E I T G A S S E of a Roman camp.
M ü N S T E R G A S S E
Housed in a former Franciscan
church, the Historisches
Museum (p179) illustrates
the history of Basel, with
particular emphasis on life in
the city during the Middle Ages.
0 metres 75 N
0 yards 75
187
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EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland Autumnal view across
the terraces from the
ruins of Baden’s castle
2 \-= 2 "
BADEN Stadtturm
⌂ Schlossbergplatz 3
§ 056 200 87 87
! D2 ⌂ 22 km (14 miles) NW of Zurich n Bahnhofplatz 1;
www.baden.ch This tall foursided tower was
built in the 15th century to
One of Switzerland’s oldest health resorts, Baden guard the Old Town. It is set
(meaning “baths”) is a peaceful, stately town. The with four corner turrets, and
therapeutic properties of its hot sulphur springs, its steep roof of red, black and
which the Romans knew as Aquae Helveticae, have white tiles is crowned by a bel
been exploited since ancient times. From the Middle fry. The tower also features
a clock framed by frescoes.
Ages, Baden’s location on the River Limmat has con Museum Langmatt Kurpark Spa Quarter
trib uted to its becoming an important centre of trade, 500 m (550 yd) 350 m (400 yd)
HAS BÄDERSTR.
and its beautiful Old Town is the legacy of this histor 3 H ASE L ST R AS S E
ical status. Today, Baden is still a popular spa centre, O BERDORFSTRASSE
OELRAINSTR.
with facilities for large numbers of visitors, as well Pfarrkirche Mariä B A H N H O F S T R . ELSTRA S S E
Himmelfahrt
as a thriving industrial town. A good place to begin Stadtfriedhof B R U G G Baden L imma t
Alter
exploring Baden’s Old Town is the east bank of the ⌂ Kirchplatz § 056 222 Station L I M M AT P R O M E N A D E
Limmat. From here, the rest of the Old Town is reached 57 15 G ÜTE R STRA S SE BAHNHOF- L IMMATAUW E G
PLATZ
by crossing a wooden bridge. Baden’s parish church, the S ON N E N B E R G S T R A S S E SCHLÖSSLISTRASSE
Church of the Assumption, G ARTE NST R ASS E E R S T R A S S E STA DT TU R MSTRASS E B A H N H O F S T R A S S E Limmat- E H R E N D I N G E R S T R A S S E
1 Austrian forces, when Baden was built in the centre of the B A DSTRA S S E OELRAINSTR. steg
and the sur rounding area
Ruine Stein fell under Vorderösterreich MARTINSBERGSTR. RÜTISTR.
The ruins of a castle look (Further Austria). In 1712, the INSIDER TIP THEATER- Naturwaldreservat
Lägern
eastwards towards the Old castle was des troyed during Spanisch Brötli R Ü T I ST R A SSE SCHLOSSBERG- PLATZ
PLATZ
Town from the top of a rocky con flicts between Protestant A light, flaky pastry, KRO N E N G A S S E Historisches
promontory, beneath which and Catholic cantons. Today filled with a tasty mix Ruine Stein Stadtturm RATHAUSG. Museum Baden
runs a road tunnel. Originally these ruins are wreathed by of roasted and crushed OBERE G. Stadthaus OBERE HALDE Holzbrücke
built in the 10th century, the green spaces, making it a hazelnuts and apricot MANSBE RGWEG KIRCH- SCHARTENSTR.
PLATZ
castle passed through the pleasant place for a stroll. The jam, this baked treat is a WEITE GASSE Pfarrkirche Mariä
Himmelfahrt
hands of several noble fam hilltop offers a splendid view Baden specialty. Enjoy KIRCHWEG K A N A L- STRASS E
ilies before being inherited by over the curving passage of it warm from the oven MELLINGERSTRASSE Hochbrücke WETTINGERSTRASSE
the Habsburgs in 1264. It was the River Limmat and of the with a cup of coffee as a
rebuilt in the 13th century as picturesque Old Town laid delicious morning snack. M E L L I N G E R NE UE N H OF ER STR AS S E LÄNDLIWEG Villa Boveri
an arsenal and fortress for before it. OBERSTADTSTR. S T R A S S E ZÜRCHERSTRASSE Schweizer Park 0 metres 200 N
188 Kindermuseum 0 yards 200
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Gothic outline, and is topped
by a pointed spire. The church
treasury, with a collection of
liturgical objects, is open to
visitors by appointment only. 5 "'-=
Historisches
Museum Baden
4 ' ⌂ Landvogteischloss
Stadthaus # 1–5pm Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat,
noon–7pm Thu, 10am–5pm
⌂ Rathausgasse 1 # 8am– Sun ∑ museum.baden.ch
5pm Mon, Wed–Fri, noon– The massive Gothic castle on
7pm Tue ∑baden.ch
the east bank of the Limmat
The Stadthaus, Baden’s town was built in the 15th century,
hall, located north of the and from 1415 to 1798 was the
church, contains a thought residence of Baden’s bailiffs.
Did You Know? fully restored council chamber, The castle keep now houses
the Tagsatzungssaal. It was a museum of local his tory. Its
The Reformed church here that the Swiss Diet, an archaeological section includes
by Bahnhofplatz was early version of Switzerland’s Roman pot tery, coins and other
built from the stones parlia ment, sat from 1426 to objects found in Baden. There
of the castle after it 1712. This wellpreserved are also displays of wea pons,
was destroyed. chamber is lined with wood traditional cos tumes of the
panelling and beautifully Aargau region and rooms
carved wood en adornments. decor ated in the style of
The striking stainedglass differ ent historical periods.
windows, which fea ture the A wing, which extends along
Old Town between 1457 and emblems of 13 of the Swiss the riverbank, contains displays
1460. Although it was remod cantons, are copies of those of objects relating to Baden’s
el led on several occasions, created by the Zürich glass more recent history. The inter
acquir ing Baroque features in painter Lukas Zeiner; each active displays will keep older
the 17th century and Neo was donated to the Stadthaus children busy, while youn ger
Classical elements in the by ten towns across the visitors will love exploring the
early 19th, it retains its origi nal canton in 1500. castle with Frank the Bat.
Museum Langmatt Kurpark Spa Quarter
500 m (550 yd) 350 m (400 yd)
HAS BÄDERSTR.
H ASE L ST R AS S E B A H N H O F S T R . ELSTRA S S E O BERDORFSTRASSE
Alter B R U G G OELRAINSTR. L i m m a t
Baden
Stadtfriedhof Station L I M M AT P R O M E N A D E
G ÜTE R STRA S SE BAHNHOF- L IMMATAUW E G
PLATZ
E H R E N D I N G E R S T R A S S E
B A H N H O F S T R A S S E B A DSTRA S S E OELRAINSTR. Limmat- S ON N E N B E R G S T R A S S E SCHLÖSSLISTRASSE
G ARTE NST R ASS E E R S T R A S S E
steg
STA DT TU R MSTRASS E
MARTINSBERGSTR.
RÜTISTR.
Naturwaldreservat
THEATER- Lägern
SCHLOSSBERG- PLATZ
PLATZ
R Ü T I ST R A SSE
Historisches
Ruine Stein Stadtturm RATHAUSG. KRO N E N G A S S E Museum Baden
Stadthaus OBERE HALDE
OBERE G. KIRCH- Holzbrücke
WEITE GASSE KIRCHWEG Himmelfahrt
MANSBE RGWEG PLATZ Pfarrkirche Mariä SCHARTENSTR.
MELLINGERSTRASSE K A N A L- STRASS E
Hochbrücke WETTINGERSTRASSE A bust of the Roman
OBERSTADTSTR. S T R A S S E ZÜRCHERSTRASSE Kindermuseum Park 0 metres 200 N Historisches Museum 189
M E L L I N G E R NE UE N H OF ER STR AS S E LÄNDLIWEG Villa Boveri goddess Juno at the
200
Schweizer
0 yards
188-191_EW_Switzerland.indd 189 14/11/2018 16:54
6
Spa Quarter
A short distance north of
the Holzbrücke, along the
Limmat’s left bank, Baden’s
18 thermal springs spout warm
mineral-rich waters that are
especially effective in cur ing
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland several hotels with their own Colourfully shuttered houses lining the
rheumatism and res pi ra tory
ailments. The quarter has
pools and wellness areas. A
new public complex opened
in 2018, with thermal pools
and treatment areas.
streets of Old Town near the Holzbrücke
7
Holzbrücke
Spanning the Limmat from
the base of the Historisches
current bridge, built in 1810 on
17th-century abutments, had
Museum Baden, this pretty bank in the 13th century. The AD 14
wooden bridge is cov ered at least five predecessors, each The year the Romans
by a ridge roof. It was built destroyed over the cen turies discovered the natu
across this narrow stretch by either natu ral calam ity, rally warm springs in
of the river to con nect the such as flood, fire or ice drift, the bend of the
Landvogteischloss (Bailiff’s or in an effort to save the Limmat.
Castle) to the lower-lying east town in times of war.
The Holzbrücke stretching
across the River Limmat
towards the Old Town
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8 "-=
Museum Langmatt
⌂ Römerstrasse 30
# Mar–Dec: 2–5pm Tue–
Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun
∑ langmatt.ch
On Römerstrasse, a short walk
westwards from the spa area,
stands a charming villa that
was once the home of the
industrialist and art connois
seur Sidney BrownSulzer
(1865–1941) and his wife, and Watteau, and paintings A display of toys engaging
Jenny. The Art Nouveau villa by Van Gogh and Gauguin. visitors of all ages at the
was built in 1900–1901 by Some of the rooms contain Schweizer Kindermuseum
Karl Moser; a few years later 17th and 18thcentury French
a wing was added, which, like furniture.
the house itself, contains an The BrownSulzers filled
exquisite art collection. The their house with artists and 9 "\'=
nucleus of the collection con musicians, and in keeping with Schweizer
sists of French Impression ist this tradition, there are regular Kindermuseum
paintings, with works by Corot, formal and informal events ⌂ Ländliweg 7
Pissarro, Renoir, Monet, Sisley, that bring together art, litera # 2–5pm Tue–Sat, 10am–
Degas and Cézanne. The col ture and music in interesting 5pm Sun ∑ kinder
lection also includes rare ways to discuss a selected museum.ch
ceramics and a series of 18th theme. Also regularly held are
century Venetian veduta, special events to introduce Housed in an old mansion,
several works by Fragonard chil dren to Impressionist art. this museum contains an
expansive collection of toys
and everyday objects from
around the world that illus
trate various aspects of child
hood, including children’s
mental development and
education. Younger visitors
are actively en couraged to
touch, examine and play with
many of the exhibits.
BADENFAHRT
Taking place once
every 10 years, this
themed party seems
to defy what might be
expected of a visit to
Switzerland. The
cobblestoned town
swells to 10 times its
normal population as
attendees flood in to
chug beer, chow down
on street food, dance
to Swiss-German rap
music till the wee hours
and go for a spin on car-
nival rides. It’s a rare
opportunity to see the
Swiss really let their
hair down.
191
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EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland
Festsaal, and former offices
3 \-= and resi dential quarters. The
WINTERTHUR town hall passage, which
connects Marktgasse with
Stadthausstrasse, is decorated
with opulent ceiling frescoes
! E2 ⌂ 20 km (12 miles) NE of Zürich n Winterthur
Hauptbahnhof; winterthur-tourismus.ch and hosts shops and a café.
A two-minute walk away, at
Now associated chiefly with textiles and mechanical Stadthausstrasse 4a, stands
engineering, Winterthur is the second-largest city in the imposing Neo-Renaissance
the canton of Zürich. Despite its industrial character, Stadthaus. It was designed
this is a pleasant town, with leafy streets, open green by Gottfried Semper, who lec-
spaces and a fully pedestrianized historic core. It also tured at Zürich’s Technical
University, and completed in
has several outstanding art galleries that can be 1869. Once the seat of the city
explored via the museum bus, which circles the town council, it now houses the
every hour, stopping at the main museums and galleries. town’s main con cert hall.
S T . - G E O R G E N - S T R A S S E Sammlung Oskar Reinhart S T
am Römerholz
1 several other historic buildings, 3 "'- THEATERSTR. STRÄULISTR. 1 km (0.5 mile)
including the 1717 Haus zur
Kunsthalle Geduld (Patience House). Fotomuseum MERKURSTR. SULZBERGSTR. LIEBESTRASSE Kunst Museum FALKENSTR. . - G E O R G E N - S T R A S S E
Beim Stadthaus
Winterthur M U S E U M S T R A S S E M U S E U M S T R A S S E FRIEDENSTRASSE PA LM STRASS E
⌂ Grüzenstrasse 44
⌂ Marktgasse 25 # Noon– # 11am–6pm Tue–Sun Winterthur Stadtgarten LINDSTR. Stadthaus
6pm Wed–Fri, noon–4pm 2 "'-= (to 8pm Wed) ∑ foto station B A H N H O F P L A T Z Kunst Museum Technorama
Reinhart am
Sat & Sun Rathaus museum.ch BANKSTRASSE Stadtgarten S T A D T H A U S S T R A S S E G E N E R A L - G U I S A N - S T R A S S E R Ö M E R S T R A S S E 2.5 km (1.5 miles)
Haus zur
∑ kunsthallewinterthur.ch Rathaus Geduld O BE RTOR
⌂ Marktgasse 20 § 052 267 This oustanding museum, set S T A D T H A U S S T R A S S E MA RKTG ASS E Lindengut-
The former Waaghaus (Weigh 51 25 # 2–5pm Tue–Sat, in a spacious and well-restored Kunsthalle park
House) has been converted 10am–noon & 2–5pm Sun warehouse, is one of the finest BAHNHOF- U NT E RTO R MARKTG. Winterthur KIRCH- AD L E RST R ASSE SE I DEN ST R A SS E PA L M ST R A SS E
into a spacious exhibition hall, of its kind in Europe. On dis- PLATZ PLATZ O BE RGA SS E UNTERER GRABEN OBERER GRABEN BADGASSE NEUSTADTGASSE
the Kunsthalle Winterthur, Winterthur’s Neo-Renaissance play is a comprehensive range ARCH- MARKT METZGGASSE Stadtkirche
NEU-
which organizes shows of town hall was built in 1874 on of images, from the early PLATZ STEI N BE RG GA SSE S T . G A L L E R S T R A S S E
contemporary art by local the site of a former Gothic beginnings of photog raphy to ARCH ST R. TECHNIKUMSTRASSE HOLDER- TÖSSTALSTR. G Ä R T N
PLATZ
and internationally renowned structure. In 1878, the ground the most recent exam ples of
artists every year. Marktgasse, floor was converted into a the art, by interna tional and L A G E R H A U S S T R A S S E
the Old Town’s pedestrianized shopping arcade. The upper local photographers. The FROHBERGSTR. FROHBERGSTR. TURMHALDENSTR. TECHNIKUMSTRASSE ADL E R STRASSE E R S T R A S S E
main artery and its principal floors have remained intact museum also holds world- Eulach T Ö S S T A L S T Adlergarten P A L M S T R A S S E
shopping street, is lined with and include the stuccoed class exhibitions. MÜHLESTR.
0 metres 200 N ROS ENSTR AS SE WILD BACHSTRASSE ZEUGHAUSSTRASE Fotomuseum
192 0 yards 200 BÜELRAINSTR. TEUCHELWELHER- OBERMÜH LESTR. R A S S E GRÜZENSTR.
PLATZ
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Must See
5 "'-=
Kunst Museum col lection here has German,
Winterthur Austrian and Swiss Romantic
and Realist works from the late
⌂ Beim Stadthaus:
Museumstrasse 52; 18th to the early 20th centuries.
Reinhart am Stadtgarten:
Stadthausstrasse 6
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun 6 "'-=
(Beim Stadthaus to Sammlung Oskar
8pm Tue, Reinhart am Reinhart am
Stadtgarten to 8pm Thu) Römerholz
∑ kmw.ch
⌂ Haldenstrasse 95
In 2017, the Kunstmuseum # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to
and Museum Oskar Reinhart 8pm Wed) ∑ roemerholz.ch
merged to form the Kunst
Museum Winterthur, with From 1926 until his death, the
two main locations in town. art collector Oskar Reinhart
Tubular undulation The Kunst Museum Beim lived in this lovely country
hanging above the Stadthaus has an excellent villa. It holds about 200 works
foyer of Technorama collection of 19th and 20th from his extensive col lection.
century works by a range of Reinhart juxta posed various
artists, including Monet, Van styles, hanging Goya with
Gogh, Picasso, Rodin, Miró and Renoir, in an effort to estab
4 "\ Mondrian. The building also lish continuities across time
Technorama houses the Naturmuseum (a and to reveal the quintes
natural history museum) and sence of art.
⌂ Technoramastrasse 1 the Kindermuseum.
# 10am–5pm daily
∑ technorama.ch Across Museumstrasse
stands the Classicalstyle
Featuring more than 500 building of the Kunst Museum Did You Know?
fascinating interactive exhib Reinhart am Stadtgarten.
its, Switzerland’s only science Oskar Reinhart (1885–1965), The name of the town
and technology museum is who was born in Winterthur, is thought to be a
a familyfriendly affair, with amassed one of the greatest compound of the Celtic
indoor picnic rooms and bar private art collections of the words uito (willow)
becue areas in the leafy park. 20th century. He bequeathed and durŌn (gate).
There are daily shows on part of it to the town, and the
various topics. rest to the Swiss nation. The
S T . - G E O R G E N - S T R A S S E Sammlung Oskar Reinhart S T
am Römerholz
THEATERSTR. STRÄULISTR. SULZBERGSTR. LIEBESTRASSE Kunst Museum FALKENSTR. . - G E O R G E N - S T R A S S E
1 km (0.5 mile)
Beim Stadthaus
MERKURSTR.
M U S E U M S T R A S S E M U S E U M S T R A S S E FRIEDENSTRASSE PA LM STRASS E
B A H N H O F P L A T Z Kunst Museum
Winterthur Stadtgarten LINDSTR. Stadthaus
station BANKSTRASSE Reinhart am S T A D T H A U S S T R A S S E G E N E R A L - G U I S A N - S T R A S S E R Ö M E R S T R A S S E 2.5 km (1.5 miles)
Technorama
Stadtgarten
Haus zur
S T A D T H A U S S T R A S S E Kunsthalle Rathaus Geduld O BE RTOR Lindengut-
MA RKTG ASS E
park
BAHNHOF- U NT E RTO R MARKTG. Winterthur KIRCH- UNTERER GRABEN AD L E RST R ASSE SE I DEN STR A SSE PA L M ST R A SS E
PLATZ O BE RGA SS E OBERER GRABEN BADGASSE NEUSTADTGASSE
PLATZ
NEU- METZGGASSE Stadtkirche
ARCH- MARKT
PLATZ
ARCH ST R. TECHNIKUMSTRASSE STEI N BE RG GA SSE HOLDER- TÖSSTALSTR. S T . G A L L E R S T R A S S E
PLATZ
G Ä R T N
TURMHALDENSTR. TECHNIKUMSTRASSE T Ö S S T A L S T Adlergarten P A L M S T R A S S E
L A G E R H A U S S T R A S S E
FROHBERGSTR. ADL E R STRASSE E R S T R A S S E
FROHBERGSTR.
Eulach
0 metres 200 N ROS ENSTR AS SE WILD BACHSTRASSE ZEUGHAUSSTRASE Fotomuseum
MÜHLESTR.
OBERMÜH LESTR. R A S S E GRÜZENSTR.
0 yards 200 BÜELRAINSTR. TEUCHELWELHER-
PLATZ
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An exhibition at Riehen’s
modern-art museum, the
Fondation Beyeler
east of Basel, at the confluence
of the Ergolz and the Rhine. It
was founded in 27 BC and at
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland EXPERIENCE MORE people. By about AD 350,
its height in about AD 200 it
had a population of 20,000
the town had been largely
destroyed by the Alemani,
a northern tribe.
Carefully excavated,
Augusta Raurica is now a
large and fascinating open-
air museum. The site includes
theatres, baths and sewers,
as well as a forum and
4
numerous houses.
some 200 pieces. These were
Riehen art collectors who acquired restored temples, amphi-
Some of the many objects
put on public display in 1997,
in a building designed by the unearthed during excavations
! C2 £ v ∑ riehen.ch
Italian architect Renzo Piano. are displayed in the excellent
The charming town of Riehen, Most of the paintings in the Römermuseum. They include
northeast of Basel, is filled collection date from the late a hoard of late antique silver
with smart villas and old 19th and 20th centuries. discovered at the foot of the
country houses, and has Among them are Impressionist town’s fortress. The recon-
much to interest visitors. paintings by Monet, works by struction of a Roman house
Wettsteinhaus, the Cézanne, Van Gogh, Picasso furnished with pieces found
residence of a 17th-century and Matisse, and canvases by at the site illustrates daily life
mayor, now houses the Miró, Mondrian, Bacon, Rothko, in the town.
Spielzeugmuseum. This Warhol and other major
superb toy museum contains artists of the 20th century. Römermuseum
exhibits ranging from toy A selection of artifacts from "' ⌂ Giebenacherstrasse
trains and tin cars to dolls and other parts of the world, 17, Augst § 061 816 22 22
board games, some dating including Africa and Oceania, # 10am–5pm daily
back to the 19th century. Also complements the paintings.
here are the Dorfmuseum,
which documents daily life in Spielzeugmuseum, 6
Riehen in 1900, and the Dorfmuseum and
Rebbaumuseum, devoted to Rebbaumuseum Zofingen
the local winemaking industry. " ⌂ Baselstrasse 34 ! D3 n Kirchplatz 26;
Riehen’s largest museum is # 11am–5pm Mon & www. zofingen.ch
the exceptional Fondation Wed–Sun ∑ spielzeug
Beyeler. It was set up by Hilda museumriehen.ch Zofingen, in the canton of
and Ernst Beyeler, prodigious Aargau, is a charming town
Fondation Beyeler with a history that goes back
"-= ⌂ Baselstrasse 101 to the 12th century. Its well-
INSIDER TIP # 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm preserved old town is
Storytime Wed) ∑ fondationbeyeler.ch surrounded by a green belt
As well as craft-making laid out along the course of
drop-in sessions, the the former fortifica tions.
Spielzeugmuseum 5 Almost all the town’s sights
hosts frequent story- are clustered around three
telling events that take Augusta Raurica neighbouring squares, Alter
even the youngest Postplatz, Kirchplatz and
visitors on a journey ! C2 £ @ g ∑ augusta Niklaus-Thut-Platz.
through songs, rhymes raurica.ch In the centre of Alter
and engaging activities. The Roman town of Augusta Postplatz is a historic arcaded
Raurica lies 11 km (7 miles) market hall that is still used
194
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for a weekly market today. creative activities, is of prime
Kirchplatz (Church Square) importance to their humanity.
takes its name from the Steiner was strongly influ Did You Know?
Stadtkirche, a parish church enced by the writing of the
built in the Romanesque style German author Johann Swiss poet Erika
but with later Gothic and Wolfgang von Goethe and his Burkart (1922–2010),
Renaissance elements added. ideas live on in the worldwide winner of the Grosser
NiklausThutPlatz is network of Waldorf schools. Schillerpreis, was
marked by a fountain with The Goetheanum, a huge born in Aarau.
a statue of the eponymous concrete building overlooking
Thut, hero of the Battle of Dornach, is the seat of the
Sempach fought in 1386, Anthroposophical Society,
when the Confederates which advocates the freedom canton of Aargau in 1803.
routed the Austrians. Among of the individual. Constructed Its wealth is derived from
the fine buildings surrounding in line with the principles the textiles industry.
the square are the Metzgern of this philosophy, it has no The town’s highest point
Zunfthaus (butchers’ guild right angles, and is widely is marked by Schlössli, a castle
house), dating from 1602, and regarded as the epitome of thought to date from the
the Baroque town hall with a Expressionist architecture. 11th century, which now
council chamber furnished in houses a museum of local
the NeoClassical style. Goetheanum history. Other notable build
"' ⌂ Rüttiweg 45 § 061 ings are the 16thcentury
706 42 42 # 8am–10pm daily town hall with a Romanesque
7 tower and the 15thcentury
Stadtkirche. Some of the
Dornach houses that line the narrow
8
! C2 £ @ ∑ dornach- Aarau streets of Aarau’s old districts
tourismus.ch have stepped gables and are
decorated with floral motifs.
! D2 n Metzgergasse 2;
The small town of Dornach, www.aarauinfo.ch The town also has a decent
on the southern outskirts of art gallery, the Aargauer
Basel, is the location of the Aarau has a scenic location Kunsthaus, with a fine col
world centre of anthro on the River Aare. The old lection of modern paintings,
posophy. Founded in about part of the town is built on and an engaging museum
1912 by the Austrianborn terraces that rise steeply of natural history.
social philosopher and from the riverbank.
educator Rudolf Steiner Briefly the capital of the Aargauer Kunsthaus
(1861–1925), anthroposophy Helvetic Republic, Aarau "'-= ⌂ Aargauerplatz
holds that one’s spiritual became the capital of the # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
development, nourished ∑ aargauerkunsthaus.ch
by mythmaking and other
The Goetheanum in
Dornach, seat of the
Anthroposophical Society
195
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9 however, is in the Baroque quaint villages of Brugg and
Windisch. It was founded
style. Built to an octagonal
Muri plan and crowned by a dome, in 1308 by Elizabeth von
it dates from the 17th century. Habsburg to mark the
! D3 n Marktstrasse 10; Most of the church furnishings spot where her husband
www.muri.ch
were made in the late 17th Albrecht I was murdered by
The splendidly restored and 18th centuries. Duke Johann of Swabia. The
Benedictine monastery in The peaceful cloisters monastery was later given to
a community of Franciscan
Muri constitutes this town’s
adjoining the church are
EXPERIENCE Northern Switzerland Lothringen and Count wife Zita. An exhibition of death, building work on the
main attraction. Kloster Muri
monks and nuns of the Order
the burial place of the hearts
was founded by Ita von
of St Clare. After Elizabeth’s
of Emperor Karl I and his
abbey was continued by her
paintings by the Swiss artist
Redebot von Habsburg in
Caspar Wolf and items from
1027 and was inhabited by a
daughter Agnes of Hungary.
the monastery’s treasury are
community of monks until
During the Reformation
1841. It then fell into disrepair
these religious communities
also displayed here.
were dissolved and in 1804
and was gutted by fire in 1889.
Kloster Muri
In 1960, after it had been
the monastery buildings were
⌂ Marktstrasse 4 # Church:
converted into a psychiatric
meticulously restored, a small
group of Benedictine monks
moved to new premises later
returned to the monastery,
until 7:30pm Tue–Sun
in the 19th century, most
where they ran a hospice.
of the monastery buildings
The oldest surviving parts
were dismantled.
of the monastery’s church until 7:30pm daily; museum: hospital. When the hospital
include its Romanesque 10 " The church, however,
presbytery, crypt and Kloster Königsfelden survives. Built in 1310–30, it
transept. Some Gothic ! D2 £ # Apr–Oct: 10am– takes the form of a monu-
elements also survive. The 5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: by mental Gothic basilica with a
main body of the church, wooden ceiling. In the aisles
request ∑ klosterkoenigs
felden.ch are wooden panels with depi-
ctions of knights and coats
The Franciscan Abbey of of arms. The 11 stained-glass
Königsfelden lies between the windows in the presby tery are
some of the country’s finest.
Made between 1325 and 1330
The splendidly restored and restored in the 1980s, they
Kloster Muri, with its show scenes from the lives of
highly decorative Christ, the Virgin Mary, the
Baroque interior (inset) Apostles and various saints.
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Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
The medieval village of
Regensberg attractively set
on a hill among vineyards
gentle hills covered in vine-
yards. Its origins go back to
medieval times, when it was
established at what was then
a ford across the river, on an
ancient route south to Zürich.
When a hydroelectric dam
was built across the Rhine, the
picturesque houses that once
stood on the riverbank were
engulfed by water. Eglisau’s
11 with half-timbered houses. historic covered bridge was
The history of Regensberg
also lost. The higher part of
Wettingen goes back to 1245. The oldest the old town, with its 18th-
building in the town is the century domed church, now
! D2 n Seminarstrasse 54;
www.wettingen.ch castle’s circular crenellated stands just above water level.
keep; the castle itself dates This historic centre is filled
Set among hills bordering from the 16th and 17th with half-timbered houses,
the scenic Limmat valley, centuries. Also of note is the some of which are decorated
Wettingen is a small town 16th-century parish church, with colourful murals.
with a magnificent Cistercian overlying the foundations of
abbey, Zisterzienserkloster. a medieval building.
The monastery was dissolved
in 1841, and now serves as a
school. Its church and the 13 EAT
cloisters are open to visitors.
The abbey church was Kaiserstuhl
founded in 1227. Although ! D2 ∑ kaiserstuhl.ch La Passion Gasthof
the Renaissance stalls survive, Hirschen
the church’s interior is decor- Lying on a gently sloping Bistro setting, gourmet
ated in an extravagant Baroque hillside on the left bank of dishes and splendid
style. The Gothic cloisters now the Rhine, Kaiserstuhl is a Rhine views.
contain a beautiful display of beautiful small medieval ! E2 ⌂ Untergass 28
stained glass. town. Its historic centre, ∑ hirschen-eglisau.ch
which is contained within
Zisterzienserkloster an irregular triangle, is a
' ⌂ Klosterstrasse 11 listed conservation area.
§ 056 437 24 10 # Church: The upper corner of the Panini Cultura Caffè
Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm Mon–Sat; triangle is marked by Oberer Hand-crafted piadine
cloisters: Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm Turm (Upper Tower), a (Italian flatbread), with
Sat & Sun medieval bastion that once barista coffee.
formed part of the town’s ! D2
fortifications. From Kaiserstuhl, ⌂ Laurenzentorgasse 14
12 a bridge over the Rhine leads ∑ culturacaffe.ch
to Hohentengen, where there
Regensberg is a 13th-century castle,
Schloss Rötelen.
! D2 Sporrer
The attractive winegrowing Home cooking at a
village of Regensberg lies on 14 family-friendly spot.
a minor road off the highway ! D2 ⌂ Im Sporrer 1,
between Zürich and Waldshut. Eglisau Winterthur
Set on a hillside amid vine- ! E2 £ n Untergass 7; ∑ sporrer.ch
yards, it is one of the best- www.eglisau.ch
preserved medieval villages in
Switzerland. Its main square Eglisau straddles the River
and oldest streets are lined Rhine and is surrounded by
197
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Dusk falling over breathtaking Lake Lugano
CENTRAL
SWITZERLAND
AND TICINO
The cradle of the Swiss Confederation and the
birthplace of the legendary hero William Tell,
central Switzerland is at both the geographical
and the historical heart of the country. Bordering
the east and south shores of Lake Lucerne, Schwyz,
Uri and Unterwalde, known as the Waldstätte, or
Forest Cantons, formed an alliance in 1291 that
marked the foundation of the Swiss Confederation.
Champion of the people William Tell became the
stuff of legend by inciting the peasant rebellion, in
1307, that would go on to overthrow Habsburg rule,
but it wasn’t until the latter half of the 15th century
that he appears in a collection of folk tales.
While William Tell was reputedly leading
uprisings to the north, the dukes of Milan were
fighting over what is now the southern canton of
Ticino. Separated from its northern neighbours by
the Alps, this Mediterranean-influenced region is
bordered on almost all other sides by Italy. It was
annexed by the Swiss Confederates in the early
16th century, but it only joined the Confederation
as a free canton in 1803. This large, Italian-speaking
canton in the sunny foothills of the southern Alps
has a pace of life that is markedly more relaxed
than elsewhere in Switzerland.
199
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NORTHERN
NORTHERN Wattwil Wattwil
Zofingen Zofingen
SWITZERLAND Rüti
0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 15 15 N N SWITZERLAND Rüti
p172
p172
0 miles 0 miles 15 15 Dagmersell Dagmersellenen Pfäffikon Pfäffikon Uznach Uznach
Cham Cham Baar Lachen Lachen
Baar
Sursee Sursee Hochdorf Hochdorf ZUG ZUG
Biel (Bienne)
Biel (Bienne)
Sempacher Sempacher Rotkreuz Rotkreuz ZUG ZUG Sihlsee Sihlsee
Zuger
Zuger
See See See See
Huttwil Huttwil Willisau Willisau Ägerisee Ägerisee KLOSTER
KLOSTER
EINSIEDELN Näfels
KÜSSNACHT
LUZERN
Lyss Lyss LUZERN KÜSSNACHT Arth Arth EINSIEDELN Wägitaler Wägitaler Näfels CENTRAL CENTRAL
Burgdorf Burgdorf AM RIGI AM RIGI Goldau Goldau See See SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
SCHW YZYZ
Wolhusen Wolhusen SCHW
LUCERNE RIGI RIGI AND TICINO
LUCERNE
AND TICINO
Zollikofen Zollikofen Vierwald- Vierwald- SCHWYZ SCHWYZ Glarus Glarus
Horw
VITZNAU
Entlebuch Entlebuch Horw stättersee stättersee VITZNAU
Hergiswil Hergiswil
Schüpfheim
Bern Bern Schüpfheim PILATUS PILATUS Brunnen Brunnen Muotathal Muotathal
Köniz Köniz Alpnach Alpnach URNERSEE
URNERSEE
Bern Bern Worb Worb STANS STANS
International
International Sarnen Sarnen Flüelen Flüelen Linthal Linthal
Airport Airport ALTDORF
ALTDORF
Münsingen UNTER UNTERWALDENWALDEN BÜRGLEN
Münsingen
BÜRGLEN
Sarner See
Sarner See Klausen Klausen
Schwarzenbur Giswil Giswil URI URI Pass Pass Rhein Rhein Chur Chur
Schwarzenburgg
Gross Scharhorn
ENGELBERG
3,295 m (10,810 ft)
MITTELLAND,
3,295 m (10,810 ft)
MITTELLAND, Sörenberg Sörenberg ENGELBERG Erstfeld Erstfeld Gross Scharhorn Flims Flims
BERNESE OBERLAND
BERNESE OBERLAND Lungern Lungern Gross-Spannort Breil Breil
Gross-Spannort
Titlis
AND VALAIS 3,240 m (10,6730 ft) Titlis 3,198 m (10,492 ft) Ilanz Ilanz
AND VALAIS
3,198 m (10,492 ft)
3,240 m (10,6730 ft)
p80 p80
Gotthard Base
Brienzersee
Brienzersee Gotthard Base Lenzerheide
Lenzerheide
Tunnel
Tunnel
Susten Susten
Interlaken Interlaken Innertkirchen Pass Pass Wassen Wassen Disentis Disentis
Innertkirchen
Sustenhorn Sustenhorn Thusis Thusis
EASTERN
3,503 m (11,492 ft) Göschenen Göschenen EASTERN
3,503 m (11,492 ft)
CENTRAL Grindelwal Grindelwaldd Andermatt Sedrun Sedrun SWITZERLAND AND
SWITZERLAND AND
Andermatt
GRAUBÜNDEN
SWITZERLAND Wengen Wengen Furka Furka Gotthard Tunnel GRAUBÜNDEN Zillis Zillis Savognin Savognin
p238
p238
Gotthard Tunnel
AND TICINO Grimsel Grimsel Pass Realp MUSEO SASSO SAN GOTTARDO
Pass
MUSEO SASSO SAN GOTTARDO
Realp
Pass
Pass
ST GOTTHARD PASS
ST GOTTHARD PASS Olivone Olivone Splügen Splügen
Must Sees Quinto Quinto
1 Lucerne Münster Münster AIROLO AIROLO
2 Pilatus Chiggiogna Chiggiogna VALLE DII San Bernar San Bernardinodino
VALLE D
Fusio
3 Kloster Einsiedeln Fusio Valle Leventina BLENIO BLENIO Madesimo Madesimo
VAL BAVONA
4 Lake Lugano Fiesch Fiesch Riale Riale VAL BAVONA Mesocco Mesocco
Valle Leventina
TICINO
5 Locarno TICINO Malvaglia Malvaglia
Maggia
6 Bellinzona Sonogno Sonogno Giornico
Giornico
Brig Brig Bignasco Bignasco Maggia Biasca Biasca Soazza Soazza
Experience More Stampa Stampa
Cevio Cevio Brione Brione Chiavenna Chiavenna
7 Zug VALLE VALLE
VERZASCA
8 Küssnacht am Rigi Simplon Simplon Premia Premia VALLE MAGGIA VERZASCA San San
VALLE MAGGIA
9 Rigi and Vitznau Pass Pass Maggia Maggia Vittore Vittore Novate Mezzola
Novate Mezzola
10 Stans Simplon Simplon Vogorno Vogorno BELLINZ BELLINZONAONA
IT AL Y
11 Engelberg Crevoladossola CENTOVALLI LOCARN LOCARNOO IT AL Y
Crevoladossola CENTOVALLI
12 Schwyz ASCONA ASCONA Ticino Ticino Domaso Domaso
13 Urnersee Domodossola Palagnedr Palagnedraa Vira Vira Piantedo Piantedo Morbegno Morbegno
Domodossola
14 Bürglen Brissago Brissago
15 Altdorf Mezzovico Mezzovico
16 Centovalli
Lago
Lago
17 Ascona Bioggio Bioggio di Como di Como Fraccia Fraccia
18 Valle Verzasca IT AL Lago Lago Lugano Lugano
IT AL YY
19 Valle Maggia Staffa Staffa Maggior Maggioree Luino Luino
20 Val Bavona LAKE LAKE
21 Valle di Blenio Gravellona T Verbania Verbania LUGANO LUGANO Monte Gener Monte Generosooso
Gravellona Toceoce
1,704 m (5,590 ft)
1,704 m (5,590 ft)
22 Airolo
23 St Gotthard Pass Alagna Valsesia Stresa Stresa Mendrisio Mendrisio
Alagna Valsesia
24 Museo Sasso San Gottardo Chiasso Chiasso Lecco Lecco San Pellegrino
San Pellegrino
Varese Varese Terme Terme
Orta San Giulio Como Como
Orta San Giulio
200-201_EW_Switzerland.indd 200 14/11/2018 14:51
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring this picturesque and unique country.
Marvel at the iconic Matterhorn, explore the fascinating art galleries and museums of Basel, or stroll
around the historic town of Lausanne on Lake Geneva: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within
color-coded chapters. Discover the best of Switzerland with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Switzerland:
- Over 35 color maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Switzerland designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floor plans show the inside of icons such as Geneva's impressive Cathédrale Saint-Pierre, Bern's masterpiece-filled Kunstmuseum, the enchanting Château de Chillon, and more
- Color photographs of Switzerland's historic cities, picturesque towns, impressive architecture, beautiful
scenery, and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's fascinating history and culture, varied languages, alpine environment, unique architecture, tunnels and railways, traditional festivals, as well as outdoor activities including skiing and hiking
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Switzerland; Northern Switzerland; Zürich; Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden; and Central Switzerland and Ticino
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop, and sightsee plus visa and health
information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Switzerland is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most
from your visit to Switzerland.
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