Must See
EAT
Bündner Stube
Candlelit meals of fresh,
seasonal fare, much
grown in the on-site
kitchen garden.
⌂ Reichsgasse 11
∑ stern-chur.ch
Calanda
A trendy spot with a
popular lunch menu and
new specials every day.
⌂ Postplatz
∑ calanda-chur.ch
Zum Alten Zollhaus
Light meals in a cosy
Stübli opposite
the Obertor.
⌂ Malixerstrasse 1
∑ zollhaus-chur.ch
One of the ornately
decorated houses lining
Obere Gasse
guish it from the Altes Gebäu of the canton of Graubünden. historic houses have been
(Old Building), which stands The well-presented displays converted into boutiques,
on Fontanapark. In the centre include a large collection of restaurants and cafés.
of the square is the Vazerol- minerals from the region’s On Saturday mornings
Denkmal, an obelisk installed mountains, including gold, during the summer, a market
to commem orate the free gemstones and micro- is held in Obere Gasse and
association formed by the minerals which can be seen Untere Gasse.
communes of Graubünden in through a microscope, as well
the 14th century, when the as plants and stuffed animals.
local pop ulation began to
organize itself in an effort to
ward off foreign domination.
9 \-=
Obere Gasse
Chur’s smartest shopping
8 "'= street, Obere Gasse runs from
Bündner St Martinsplatz to Obertor, the
Naturmuseum Gothic city gate on the banks
of the Plessur. All along this
⌂ Masanserstrasse 31 narrow, flag-hung street, the
§ 081 257 28 41 # 10am–
5pm Tue–Sun ∑ natur
museum.gr.ch
The displays of this modern A stonework ibex,
museum showcases the which flanks one side of
beautiful natural environment the city’s coat of arms
248-251_EW_Switzerland.indd 251 15/11/2018 10:08
0
CHUR
CATHEDRAL
The 15th-
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
⌂ Hofplatz § 081 258 60 60 # 8am–7pm daily century stalls
exemplify late
Officially known as the Cathedral of St Mary of the Gothic wood-
Assumption, Chur’s Catholic church is a historic place carving.
of worship. During the Swiss Reformation, the town’s
Catholic community were confined to the cathedral
and the surrounding bishop’s court.
Begun in 1151 and completed in the mid-13th
century, Chur Cathedral represents a mixture
of the Romanesque and Gothic architectural
styles. The earliest part of the basilica is its
eastern section. The nave, with Romanesque
columns and Gothic vaulting, and the bell
tower, topped by a lantern, are later elements.
The exterior was remodelled in the early 19th
century, after the building was damaged by a
fire that destroyed the original towers and
roof. Peculiarly, the cathedral is built to an
irregular plan, with the axis of the sanctuary
and that of the nave being out of alignment.
The sanctuary is home to one of the finest
features of the cathedral – the renovated
15th-century golden altar triptych, which
gleams in the light slanting through the
small side windows.
The main altar
has an ornate,
golden triptych.
Side door
to the choir of
the cathedral The crypt is
supported by
columns with
capitals in the form
of animal figures. The Gothic
sanctuary is
decorated with
delicate figures
of saints.
A capital in the shape of
a man riding a lion in the
cathedral’s crypt
252-253_EW_Switzerland.indd 252 15/11/2018 10:08
EW Must-see template v2 – 12th July 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
Must See
1 Chur Cathedral is
easily recognized by its
single bell tower, peeking
through the town’s trees.
2 The cathedral has an
elaborate high altar, built
in 1492 by Jacob Russ.
3 The stained-glass
window in the west wall
features scenes from the
life of the Virgin Mary. 1
The capitals of the
columns in the nave
are outstanding
examples of Swiss
Romanesque stone
carving.
Carvings of
biblical
scenes adorn
the Baroque
pulpit. 2 3
The west wall’s
magnificent
stained-glass
window
Did You Know?
The cathedral claims
to house the relics
of St Lucius, who
brought Christianity
to Britain.
The cathedral is
attached to other
buildings in the
bishop’s court.
Main entrance
Chur’s magnificent
Cathedral of St Mary
of the Assumption
253
252-253_EW_Switzerland.indd 253 15/11/2018 10:08
4
SWISS
NATIONAL PARK
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
! G4 ⌂ 148 km (92 miles) SE of Zurich # Jun–Oct: 8:30am–6pm daily;
Nov–May: 9am–5pm daily ∑ nationalpark.ch
Established in 1914, the Swiss National Park, or Parc Naziunal Svizzer
in Romansch, was the first national park to be created in the Alps.
This pristine nature reserve covers an area of 170 sq km (66 sq miles)
and its topography ranges from sheltered valleys and dense forests
to flower-covered meadows and rocky, snow-covered peaks.
The best way to appreciate the park is to follow its 80 km
(50 miles) of well-marked hiking trails. Many of these
start from parking areas off Ofenpassstrasse, the
only highway through the park. A free app has
detailed maps and park information, including
where to find overnight accommoda tion in the
park. Walkers are also reminded that they are
forbidden to stray from these trails for
conserva tion reasons. On the park’s western
border, Ova Spin overlooks rugged mountain
terrain. To the east are mag ni ficent snowy views
of Piz Nair and Munt la Schera, while in the north
the vista is of mountains blanketed in pine forests.
TOP TOP FIVE
5 ALPINE
ANIMALS
Ibex
The Alps’ iconic
goats are instantly
recognizable bytheir
long horns.
Chamois
These skittish Alpine
antelopes dart easily
up and down cliffsides.
Golden Eagles
These regal birds spiral,
disappear and swoop on
the mountain wind.
Northern Viper
The park’s only snake,
vipers are often found
motionless in the grass.
Marmots
These adorable rodents A pair of hikers
thrive in the park’s negotiating the terrain,
meadowlands. which is dotted with
mountain huts (inset)
254
254-255_EW_Switzerland.indd 254 14/11/2018 17:11
EW Must-see template v2 – 12th July 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
Must See
1
1 The Aussichtplattform
(viewing platform) at Piz
Nair offers incredible views
over the Silvaplanersee.
2 Throughout the park
there are well-marked
hiking trails, open from
June to October.
3 A statue of an ibex, one
of the park’s most iconic
animals, overlooks snow-
2 3 capped Munt la Schera.
255
254-255_EW_Switzerland.indd 255 14/11/2018 17:11
EXPERIENCE MORE
5 Schloss Laufen, a tur reted At Ittingen, located about
Renaissance castle over look-
4 km (2.5 miles) north of
Rheinfall ing the river from the south, Frauenfeld, is the Kartause
has the best view of the falls. Ittingen, a Carthusian mon-
! E2 @ n Neuhausen, From the castle, steps lead astery founded in the 15th
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
Rheinfallquai 3; www.
rheinfall.ch down to viewing platforms. century. No longer inhabited
A spectacular fireworks dis- by monks, the monastery is
Creating an awe-inspiring play is staged at the Rheinfall open to visitors. As well as a
spectacle of rainbow-tinted during the evening of 31 July, hotel, a restaurant and a farm
spray, the waters of the Rhine the eve of National Day shop, the monastery also has
tumble off a cataract at (1 August), each year. a museum illustrating mon-
Neuhausen, 4 km (2.5 miles) astic life and a gallery of 20th-
downriver from Schaffhausen. century Swiss painting.
The waterfall, known as the 6
Rheinfall, is the largest in
Europe. Although it is only 23 m Frauenfeld 7
(75 ft) high, it is remarkable ! E2 £ @ n Bahnhofplatz
for its width (about 150 m/ 75; www.frauenfeld.ch Bodensee
492 ft) and its beautiful setting ! F2 £ @ g
between tree-covered banks. Located on the River Murg, n Hauptstrasse 39,
west of the Bodensee, Kreuzlingen; www.
Frauenfeld is the capital of kreuzlingen-bodensee.ch
PICTURE PERFECT Thurgau canton. It is a pic tur-
Behind the Falls esque town with attractive The Bodensee, also known as
Capture the full majesty burgher houses in its historic Lake Constance, has become a
of the Rheinfall on a boat centre, including the Baliere in summer playground for visi-
trip. Leaving from near Kreuzplatz, a half-timbered tors attracted by the sailing,
by Schaff hausen (p242), building that is now an art swimming and devel opment
tours stop at a mighty gallery, and the Luzemhaus, a of resort hotels along the
rock standing virtually Baroque build ing that houses shores. There is a wealth of
in the middle of the a natural history museum. The water sports, including sailing
falls, where platforms origins of Frauenfeld’s castle and paddle-boarding. There
let you feel the vibration go back to the 13th century. are 337 km (209 miles) of pro-
of the water as you snap Its restored rooms house the tected bike trails touching four
the torrents up close. Thurgau History Museum, a borders: Switzerland, Austria,
museum of local history. Germany, and Liechtenstein.
Europe’s largest waterfall,
the Rheinfall, overlooked
by pretty Schloss Laufen
256
256-257_EW_Switzerland.indd 256 15/11/2018 10:08
EW Must-see / Catalogue template v1.1 – 18th May 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
The cobbled Rathausplatz,
with its fine medieval build
ings, in Stein am Rhein
The massive lake, which is
both fed and drained by the
Rhine, is 64 km (40 miles) long
and 12 km (7 miles) wide. Its
western and southern shores,
which belong to Switzerland,
are lined with small resorts
that have excellent fishing
and watersports facilities.
Kreuzlingen is the principal
Swiss town here, with the
Baroque Kirche St Ulrich
its finest building. Schloss
Arenenberg and the medieval
castle of Gottlieben are both
on the Swiss shoreline, as is
the 14th-century Turmhof
fortification in Steckborn.
8
Stein am Rhein
! E2 £ @ g n Oberstadt 3;
www.steinamrhein.ch
With its numerous medieval
half-timbered buildings and town began to prosper and Lindwurm Museum
16th-century houses with expand in the late 11th cen- " ⌂ Understadt 18
frescoed façades, Stein am tury, when German emperor ∑ museumlindwurm.ch
Rhein is one of the country’s Heinrich II established a
most beautiful sights. Founded Benedictine monastery here. Klostermuseum
in Roman times, this small The outline of the town walls St Georgen
can be made out, and two of " ⌂ Fischmarkt 3
the town gates, Obertor and ∑ klostersanktgeorgen.ch
Untertor, still stand. The main
square, Rathausplatz, is lined
with handsome wood-framed THE RHAETIAN
houses painted with motifs RAILWAY
reflecting their names, such as Riding a mountain train
House of the Sun or House of when in Switzerland is
the Red Ox. The Lindwurm almost an inevitability.
Museum re-creates 19th- The most scenic line is
century middle-class life over the private Rhaetian
four floors of a beauti fully Railway, running across
restored house in the historic 383 rail bridges and
Old Town. through 84 tun nels. Its
Overlooking the Rhine Albula/Bernina Line,
stands Kloster St Georgen, a climbing up the Albula
Benedictine monastery, and Valley past the drama
its 12th-century church. The tic Landwasser viaduct,
well-preserved monastery is now a UNESCO World
rooms, decorated in the early Heritage Site and one
16th century, now house the of Europe’s truly great
Klostermuseum St Georgen, rail journeys.
devoted to local history.
257
256-257_EW_Switzerland.indd 257 15/11/2018 10:08
9 INSIDER TIP
Appenzell Appenzell
Whisky Trek
! F3 £ @ n Appenzell, Alpine paths connect
Hauptgasse 4; www.
appenzell.ch 25 mountain inns across
Alpstein. In each, barrels
Surrounded on all sides by of individually distilled
the canton of St Gallen, the alpine malts can be
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
region known as Appenzell sampled and collected
consists of two half-cantons, in bottles signed by the
Appenzell-Ausserrhoden in cask keeper (www.
the north and west, and appenzellerbier.ch).
Appenzell-Innerrhoden in
the south. From the 10th to
the 15th centuries, Appenzell colourfully painted wooden
formed part of the territory houses. Also of interest are
owned by the abbey at the 16th-century town hall
St Gallen (p246). Having and the parish church, Kirche
gained its independence, St Mauritius, which was built The impressive cascade
Appenzell joined the Swiss in the 16th century in the of the Thurwasserfälle
Confederation in 1513. Baroque style and remodelled at Unterwasser
While the bigger Appenzell- in the 19th century.
Ausserrhoden is Protestant The history and culture
and largely industrialized, of Appenzell is amply docu- Stein, a quiet village east of
Appenzell-Innerrhoden is mented by the varied and Herisau, has an interesting
Catholic and markedly more extensive collections of the folk museum and show dairy.
bucolic, with a farming Museum Appenzell. These While the displays at the
economy and a developed range from costumes and Appenzell Folklore Museum
tourist industry. It is headdresses to embroidery illustrate the lives, culture and
renowned for its cattle- and cowbells. crafts of the local people, at
breeding and its dairy To the south of Appenzell the Appenzeller Showcase
products, most especially lies the Alpstein massif. The Dairy (Schaukäserei), visitors
its cheeses. Along with its highest peak here, the Säntis, can watch cheese being made
rural character, Appenzell- rises to 2,504 m (8,215 ft). using local methods.
Innerrhoden has strong Popular with hikers and The market town of Gais,
folk traditions and a pristine mountaineers, the Säntis at the centre of Appenzell, is
natural environment. can be reached by road or of interest for its colourfully
Like many other towns by cable car from Schwägalp. painted wooden houses,
in the region, Appenzell, The picturesque village of many of which have ornate
capital of Innerrhoden, has Urnäsch, in Ausserrhoden, gables. It is also an excellent
a Landsge meindeplatz, a also has the Appen zeller base for exploring the region.
square on which regular Brauchtums museum, a
voting sessions are held. The folk museum. Its collection Museum Appenzell
well-preserved historic centre includes reconstructed farm- " ⌂ Appenzell, Hauptgasse
of this small town is filled with house interiors, as well as 4 # Apr–Oct: 10am–noon
costumes and craft items. & 2–5pm daily; Nov–Mar:
North of Urnäsch lies 2–5pm Tue–Sun
Herisau, capital of the ∑ museum.ai.ch
canton of Appenzell-
Ausserrhoden. The Appenzeller
town boasts attractive Brauchtumsmuseum
wooden houses and a " ⌂ Urnäsch # Apr–Oct:
church with Rococo 9–11:30am & 1:30–5pm Mon–
furnishings dating Sat, 1:30–5pm Sun; Nov–Mar:
from 1520. 9–11:30am Mon–Sat
∑ museum-urnaesch.ch
Appenzell Folklore
A beautifully Museum
decorated bed on " ⌂ Stein # 10am–5pm
display in the Tue–Sun ∑ appenzeller-
Museum Appenzell museum-steinach
258
258-259_EW_Switzerland.indd 258 29/11/2018 13:08
EW Must-see / Catalogue template v1.1 – 18th May 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
Did You Know?
Rapperswil-born
Marianne Ehrmann
was one of the first
German-speaking
female writers.
the traffic-free medieval
centre is a pleasant place to
stroll.Behind the lakeside
prom enade lie narrow streets
lined with houses fronted by
arcades, and small squares
with cafés and restaurants
serving fresh locally caught
fish. From May to October the
air is filled with the delicate
perfume of more than 15,000
roses. Known as the City of
in Switzerland. The farmhouse Roses, Rapperswil has more
Appenzeller Showcase where he was born in 1484 is than 16,000 roses flowering in
Dairy (Schaukäserei) open to visitors. Unterwasser walled gar dens, including one
' ⌂ Stein # May–Oct: is worth a visit too, for its within a Capuchin monastery
9am–6:30pm daily; Nov– impressive waterfall, the and a particularly serene one
Apr: 9am–5:30pm daily Thurwasserfälle. specially designed for the
∑ schaukaeserei.ch visually impaired and those
with mobility issues.
11 Besides the 15th-century
10 Rapperswil town hall and the parish
church, Rapperswil’s main
Toggenburg feature is its looming Gothic
! E3 n Fischmarktplatz 1;
! E3 n Wildhaus, www.rapperswil.ch castle, whose three forbidding
Hauptstrasse; www. towers rise above the town.
toggenburg.org This small town, in the canton From the castle there are
of St Gallen, sits on a promon- views of Zürich to the north
Washed by the River Thur, the tory on the north side of the and of the Glarus Alps to the
Toggenburg is a long valley Zürichsee. Although the southwest. The village makes
that lies on a north-south axis modern part of Rapperswil a good base for hiking in
between Wil and Wattwil, has nothing of great interest, summer and skiing in winter.
then veers eastwards just
above Alt St Johann, where it
becomes Oberes Toggenburg,
which then opens out onto
the Rhine valley.
The Toggenburg has over
300 km (185 miles) of marked
hiking and cycling trails, and
its gentle slopes provide easy
skiing pistes. The valley is
dotted with attractive small
towns and villages, among
them are Wil and Lichtensteig,
which has historic houses.
Wildhaus, a pleasant resort
at the eastern extremity of
Oberes Toggenburg, is the
birthplace of Ulrich Zwingli, An attractive rose garden in a courtyard
the leader of the Reformation of Rapperswil’s medieval castle
259
258-259_EW_Switzerland.indd 259 14/11/2018 17:11
12 the lake’s eastern shore,
is a convenient base for
Walensee exploring the mountains, 1535
including Walenstadtberg
! E3–F3 £ @ and Berschis.
n Walenseestrasse 18; The year Swiss doctor
www.heidiland.com Paracelsus recognized
the healing powers
This slender lake marks the 13 of Bad Pfäfers’
border between the cantons hot springs.
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
of St Gallen and Glarus. About Bad Ragaz
15 km (9 miles) long and just ! F4 @ £ n Am Platz 1;
2 km (1 mile) across at its www.heidiland.com
widest point, it lies in a steep- As well as skiing on the slopes
sided valley, with the rugged Bad Ragaz, set on the River of Pizol, Bad Ragaz offers golf,
Churfirsten massif on its Tamina, is one of Switzerland’s tennis and other sporting
northern side and the Glarner foremost spa resorts, with activi ties. It is also an excellent
Alps to the southeast. This grand old palace-style hotels base for hiking in the sur-
lovely region is also known as and an outstanding golf rounding hills.
Heidiland after Johanna Spyri’s course. Its natural thermal About 5 km (3 miles) south
famous children’s novel. springs have been used to of Bad Ragaz is Bad Pfäfers,
The railway line and the cure ailments since the 13th a spa town with a beautiful
motorway linking Zürich and century. The resort has several Baroque church and a former
Chur run along the south side indoor and outdoor pools – Benedictine monastery that
of the lake. Most of the towns Tamina-Therme, in the centre houses a local history museum.
and villages on the steep of the resort, is the best known. Southwest of Bad Ragaz is
north shore are accessible Bad Ragaz also has an early the Taminaschlucht, a deep
only by boat or on foot. 18th-century parish church gorge carved out by the
Cruises on the lake take in the with Baroque wall paintings. rushing waters of the Tamina.
charming town of Weesen. The town hall contains a Also of interest is Sargans,
A short distance south is display of paint ings and other which has beautiful Neo-
Näfels, which boasts a late- works of art of Bad Ragaz and Classical buildings and a
Renaissance palace, the its environs. Gothic castle.
Freulerpalast. The building
houses a museum of local
history. The neighbouring Davos has some famous “off-piste”
town of Mollis contains well- powder snow runs, but beginners are
preserved burgher houses
and fine 18th-century man- catered for, too: there are several ski
sions, while Walenstadt, on and snowboarding schools.
260
260-261_EW_Switzerland.indd 260 14/11/2018 17:11
EW Must-see / Catalogue template v1.1 – 18th May 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
14
Maienfeld
! F3 @ £
n Bahnhofstrasse 1;
www.heidiland.com
The village of Maienfeld,
across the Rhine from Bad
Ragaz, is also part of the
Heidiland tourism area. It was
this part of the Swiss Alps that
Johanna Spyri chose as the
setting for Heidi (1881), the
story of an orphaned girl
that has become a classic of
children’s literature. A very
easy walking trail leads from
Maienfeld up to the hamlet of Today it is one of the largest The slopes of the Hörnli
Oberrofels. Here visitors can of Swiss resorts and hosts near Arosa, ideal for
see Heidi’s House, a wooden world leaders at the Davos intermediate skiiers
chalet in which the fictional World Economic Forum.
surroundings of Heidi’s life Davos has close associ ations 16
with her grand father are with German writer and Nobel
vividly re-created. laureate Thomas Mann, who Arosa
visited in 1911 and was ! F4 @ £ n Poststrasse;
inspired to write The Magic www.arosa.ch
15 Mountain. The town is also Set in a bowl in the narrow
associated with the German
Davos Expressionist painter Ernst Schanfigg valley, Arosa is
Ludwig Kirchner, who settled one of Switzerland’s most
! F4 £ @ n Promenade 67;
www.davos.ch here in 1917. The largest beautiful resorts. Although it
collection of his work in the lies at an altitude of 1,800 m
Originally a remote village, world, including many of the (5,900 ft), it enjoys a gentle
Davos developed into a health Alpine landscapes that he climate, with lots of sunshine.
resort for tuberculosis suf- painted during his years in The town is divided into two
ferers in the 1860s, and was Davos, are displayed in the areas. Ausserarosa is the main
transformed into a winter Kirchner Museum here. resort and Innerarosa the
sports resort in the 1930s. Davos has some famous original village. The crafts
“off-piste” powder snow runs, and folk art on display in the
but beginners are catered Schanfigg Heimatmuseum
for, too: there are several ski reflect mountain life in the
and snowboarding schools, days before the town became
as well as some less demand- a popular winter holiday spot.
ing slopes. There are also In winter the neighbouring
toboggan runs and a large slopes of Weisshorn, Hörnli
natural ice rink, where ice and Prätschli provide superb
hockey is played. downhill pistes. There are also
In summer visitors can cross-country trails, a sleigh
enjoy golf and tennis, hiking run and an ice rink. In summer
along trails, rock climbing visitors can enjoy over 200 km
and trekking on horseback. (125 miles) of hiking trails and
mountain biking routes, and
Kirchner Museum the resort’s two lakes offer a
" ⌂ Promenade 82 variety of watersports.
# 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
∑ kirchnermuseum.ch Schanfigg
Heimatmuseum
" ⌂ Poststrasse, Innerarosa
# Jun–Oct: 2:30–4:30pm Mon,
The small port of Weesen Wed & Fri; Dec–Apr: 2:30–
in an idyllic lakeside 4:30pm Tue & Fri ∑ arosa-
setting on the Walensee museum.ch
261
260-261_EW_Switzerland.indd 261 14/11/2018 17:11
Hikers in the village of
Ardez, notable for its
houses painted with
beautiful murals
and a regional museum. On
the opposite bank of the Inn
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
lie the villages of Vulpera,
which has picturesque houses
and an 11thcentury castle,
and Tarasp, with a spa. Chaste
Tarasp, a castle, perches on a
rocky spur above the village.
At Scharl, nearby, is a lead
and silver mine, which is open
to visitors.
Most of the towns and
villages in the Lower Engadine
make good bases for ex plor
ing the Silvretta mountain
range to the north and the
Swiss National Park (p254)
to the south.
18
Müstair
! G4 n Chasa Cumünala,
Tschierv; www.val-
17 averaging 1,800 m (5,900 ft) muestair.ch
and is dotted with several
Engadine Valley popular winter sports resorts, Tucked away at the bottom of
including Pontresina and Val Müstair (Münstertal in
! G4 n Via San Gian 30, St Moritz (p264). German), and almost on the
St Moritz; www.engadin.
stmoritz.ch The Lower Engadine border with Italy, Romansh
(Unterengadin in German, speaking Müstair (Münster in
The Engadine Valley is Engiadina Bassa in Romansh) German) takes its name from
generally acknowledged as lies between Zernez and the Carolingian monastery
one of Switzerland’s most Martina. Remote, unspoiled founded here in about AD 780.
scenic. It begins at the foot and very picturesque, this
of the Rhaetian Alps, near region is dotted with attrac
St Moritz, and extends north tive villages set on either side CROSS-COUNTRY
eastwards as far as the border of the River Inn. Many of these SKIING IN THE
of Austria. It is named after villages have houses with ENGADINE
the River Inn (En in Romansh), painted façades or sgraffito Even more popular
which runs along the valley decoration, in which the upper with Swiss families
and on into Austria, where it layer of plaster is cut away to than downhill skiing
joins the Danube. create a design. Particularly is scuffling along the
This deep valley between fine sgraffito deco ration can flats, through the
high cliffs is divided into an be seen in Guarda, a village woods and over the
upper, southwestern section overlooking the River Inn. frozen lakes, on more
and a lower, northeastern The village of Ardez is also than 230 km (142 miles)
section. The Upper Engadine notable for its painted houses, of trails in the Engadin
(Oberengadin in German, one of which has an exterior Valley. When using
Engiadin’ Ota in Romansh), covered with a beautiful long, narrow light
lies between the Maloja Pass depiction of Adam and Eve weight skis, sliding
and Zernez. With glaciers and in the Garden of Eden. down even the slight
snowy peaks on either side, The principal town of the est hill becomes a
the valley floor of the Upper Lower Engadine is Scuol mini adventure.
Engadine lies at an altitude (Schuls in German), with a spa
262
262-263_EW_Switzerland.indd 262 14/11/2018 17:12
EW Must-see / Catalogue template v1.1 – 18th May 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
The working convent is one 19
of the oldest buildings in
the country. Pontresina Did You Know?
The convent church, known ! G4 n Via Maistra 133;
in Romansh as the Baselgia 081 838 83 00 Legend has it a red-
San Jon and in German as ∑ pontresina.ch haired siren lured
Klosterkirche St Johann, is a mountineers to their
working convent decorated A mountaineering resort since doom on Diavolezza.
with exceptionally well- the 19th century, Pontresina,
preserved 12th- and 13th- in the Upper Engadine, lies at
century Romanesque fres- the foot of Val Bernina at an
coes. Because of these, the altitude of 1,800 m (5,900 ft).
church has been declared a Among Pontresina’s historic Museum Alpin
UNESCO World Heritage Site. buildings are the Spaniola " ⌂ Via Maistra 199 § 081
While the frescoes on the side Turm, a Romanesque tower, 842 72 73 # Mid-Jun–mid-
walls depict scenes from the and the chapel of Santa Maria, Oct & end Dec–mid-Apr:
life of Christ, those in the containing Romanesque fres- 4–6pm Mon–Sat
presbytery show scenes from coes, some of which depict
the life of St John. A depiction scenes from the life of Mary
of the Last Judgement covers Magdalene. Exhibits in the 20
the west wall. Some of the Museum Alpin illustrate the
frescoes have now been history of the town. Bernina Pass
moved to the Schweizerisches Pontresina is a year-round ! G5
Nationalmuseum in Zürich resort. In winter the slopes
(p162). The church also has a of Diavolezza and Lagalb At an altitude of 2,328 m
12th-century statue of Charle- are linked into the 350-km (7,638 ft), the Bernina Pass
magne and an 11th-century (217-mile) network of the is the highest point on the
relief of the baptism of Christ. Engadine ski region. In sum- ancient route from St Moritz
The small museum near the mer, Pontresina offers gentle to Tirano, in Italy.
church contains Carolingian walking along wooded paths A road climbs up Val
statuary and Baroque figures. as well as more demanding Bernina on the north side of
hiking and mountaineering up the pass and descends Val di
Baselgia San Jon to the summits of Alp Ota and Poschiavo on its southern
" # Church: Apr–Oct: 7am– Munt della Bescha. The hiking side. The pass is also served
8pm daily, Nov–Mar: 7:30am– trail up Val Roseg leads to by ordinary trains and by the
6pm daily; museum: May– a glacier at the foot of Piz Bernina Express (p274). The
Oct: 9am–5pm daily, Nov–Apr: Roseg. Experienced climbers breathtaking view from the
10am–noon & 1:30–4:30pm can tackle Piz Bernina, at pass takes in the peaks of the
Mon–Sat, 1:30–4:30pm Sun 4,049 m (13,284 ft) the highest Rhaetian Alps to the north and
∑ muestair.ch peak in the Rhaetian Alps. Lago Bianco, an artificial lake.
The Bernina Express train
making its dramatic ascent
up to the Bernina Pass
263
262-263_EW_Switzerland.indd 263 29/11/2018 13:08
21 Bregaglia is popular with
mountaineers for its many
Val Bregaglia scenic hiking trails and extraor- 75
dinary rock formations.
! F5 n Strada Principale
101, Stampa; www. The main village in the The number of seconds
bregaglia.ch valley is Vicosoprano, which it takes to zoom
has mansions and historic law down the St Moritz
The western continuation courts. Further south lies bobsled run.
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
of the Inn valley culminates Stampa, birthplace of the
at the Maloja Pass (1,815 m/ artists Augusto Giacometti
5,955 ft), which marks the and his son, Alberto. Their
western boundary of the works can be seen in Stampa natural-ice bobsled run here.
Engadine. On the western side at the 16th-century Casa It is also known for its curative
of the pass a road winds down Granda, where there is also springs, exploited at least
Val Bregaglia, one of the a museum of local history. since the Middle Ages.
canton’s predominantely The charming hamlet of The town has two districts:
Italian-speaking valleys. Soglio sits on the north side St Moritz-Bad, the spa area on
Dotted with ruined castles of the valley and is the start- the southwestern side of the
and small churches, Val ing point for numerous scenic lake, and St Moritz-Dorf, on
hiking trails. the northern side, with hotels,
restaurants and boutiques.
FOOD IN ST MORITZ Although little remains of
Known as a foodie place 22 the original village, St Moritz
in the snow, St Moritz St Moritz is an interesting place with
has a buzzing culinary two diverting museums. The
scene, with its share of ! F5 n Via Maistra 12; Giovanni-Segantini Museum,
celebrity chefs and www.stmoritz.ch on Via Somplaz, is devoted to
Michelin stars. Central the Symbolist painter, who
to its epicurean repu- The birthplace of winter spent the final years of his
tation is the town’s tourism, still celebrated for life in the Upper Engadine.
Gourmet Festival. Held its “champagne atmosphere” On Via dal Bagn, just below
every January, it entices at 1,800 m (5,900 ft), St Moritz Via Somplaz, is the Museum
gourmands with the (San Murezzan in Romansh) Engiadinais, which looks at
chance to sample lies on a sunny terrace on life in the Engadine and the
elaborate and inventive the north shore of the history of the spa.
dishes cooked by master Moritzersee. Surrounded by
chefs, taste local mountains, it offers superb Giovanni-Segantini
delicacies from around skiing and snow boarding, Museum
the world and quaff and is a base for hiking and " ⌂ Via Somplaz 30
award-winning wines. mountaineering in summer. # Dec–Oct: 10am–noon
Visitors will also find the & 2–6pm Tue–Sun
world’s oldest and only ∑ segantini-museum.ch
264-265_EW_Switzerland.indd 264 14/11/2018 17:12
The traditional Engadine
village of Sils on the north
shore of the Silersee
Museum Engiadinais Nietzsche. The house where 25
" ⌂ Via dal Bagn 39 he lived, and where he wrote
# 10am–noon & 2–5pm Also Sprach Zarathustra, has San Bernardino Pass
Mon–Fri & Sun ∑ museum- been converted into a small ! E4 n Strada Cantonale;
engiadinais.ch museum, the Nietzsche Haus.
www.sanbernardino.ch
Nietzsche Haus On the great transalpine route
23 " ' ⌂ Via da Marias 67 running from the Bodensee,
# Jan–mid-Apr & mid-Jun–
in the far northeast of the
Sils mid-Oct: 3–6pm Tue–Sun country, down to Lake Como,
∑ nietzschehaus.ch in Italy, San Bernardino is one
! F5 n sils.ch
of Europe’s most important
The charming village of Sils mountain passes, lying at an
(Segl in Romansh) has a 24 altitude of 2,066 m (6,778 ft).
picturesque setting on the Although snow usually blocks
north shore of the Silsersee. Zillis the pass from November to
The village consists of two ! F4 n Poststelle May, the 7-km (4-mile) tunnel
parts: Sils Baselgia, on the Hauptstrasse; www. beneath it is permanently
lakeshore, and Sils Maria, to zillis-reischen.ch open. The village resort of San
the south. Many writers, Bernardino, located on the
painters and musicians have In the village of Zillis (Ziràn in south side of the pass, makes
been drawn to Sils. From 1881 Romansh), a remarkable cycle an excellent base for hiking
to 1889, Sils Maria was the of Romanesque frescoes and exploring the surround-
summer residence of the adorn a small church, on the ing mountains.
German philosopher Friedrich east bank of the Hinterrhein.
The wooden ceiling of
Kirche St Martin is covered
with 153 square panels,
painted between 1109 and
1114. The exterior panels STAY
depict an ocean filled with sea
monsters; those in the interior
show scenes from the life of Suvretta House
Christ and of St Martin. St Moritz
Imeccable service and
Kirche St Martin Alpine luxury perched
⌂ Am Postplatz § 081 661 high above the
22 55 # 8am–6pm daily Engadine Valley.
(Nov–Mar: from 9am) ! F5 ⌂ Chasellas, Via 1
∑ suvrettahouse.ch
Paintings displayed at
the Giovanni-Segantini
Museum, St Moritz
265
264-265_EW_Switzerland.indd 265 14/11/2018 17:12
EXPERIENCE Eastern Switzerland and Graubünden
A spectacular waterfall
near the Klausen Pass
in the canton of Glarus
26 With beautiful lakes and valleys, the
Glarus mountains around Glarus, particularly
those of the Glärnisch massif, are
! E3 n Glarnerland pop ular with hikers.
Rätstätte A3, Niederurnen;
www.glarnerland.ch
Capital of the canton of church with a treasury that to the south, the discreetly
Glarus, this small town is contains a collection of chic ski resort of Klosters
also the urban centre of liturgical vessels. has an inti mate atmosphere.
Glarnerland, a rather isolated With beautiful lakes and The only remaining trace of
and mountainous but beau valleys, the mountains around the medieval monastery
tiful region that lies between Glarus, particularly those of from which it takes its name
the Walensee and the Klausen the Glärnisch massif, are pop is Kirche St Jacob, which has
Pass. Largely rebuilt after it ular with hikers. Many of the beautiful stainedglass win
was destroyed by fire in 1861, slopes have excellent pistes. dows by Augusto Giacometti.
the town is laid out on a grid South of Glarus, the main road The history of the village and
pattern and as such is a classic goes on to Linthal, from where its develop ment into a resort
example of 19thcentury a funicular climbs to Braunwald. are docu mented by displays in
urban planning. Notable This tranquil carfree resort is the Nutli-Hüschi, a 16th
buildings here include the set on a pla teau that offers century chalet.
town hall, the Kunsthaus superb hiking. Beyond Linthal Klosters shares a ski pass
Glarus – an art gallery with a the road leads through some region with Davos, encom
collection of 19th and 20th spec tacular scenery over the passing 320 km (199 miles)
century Swiss paintings – and Klausen Pass (1,948 m/6,391 ft) of ski terrain. It is suitable for
the NeoRomanesque parish and down to Altdorf (p227) all levels of experience, from
and Lake Lucerne. beginner to master skier.
Nutli-Hüschi
Did You Know? 27 " ⌂ Talstrasse # 3–5pm
Wed & Fri ∑ museum-
Klosters klosters.ch
Klosters is known as
“Hollywood on the ! F4/F5 £ @ n Alte
Rocks” because it Bahnhofstrasse 6;
attracts so many www.klosters.ch
celebrities. Poschiavo’s central
Quieter and smaller than square with its
Davos (p261), its neighbour Italianate buildings
266
266-267_EW_Switzerland.indd 266 29/11/2018 13:08
EW Must-see / Catalogue template v1.1 – 18th May 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho Gothic
Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224
28 29
Poschiavo Mesocco
! G5 n Stazione; www. ! F5 ∑ mesocco.ch EAT
valposchiavo.ch
The picturesque stone houses
The descent down Val di of Mesocco cluster on the Chesa Grischuna
Poschiavo, the valley on the banks of the River Moesa, Award-winning French
south side of the Bernina which runs along the Valle cuisine in a grand chalet.
Pass, reveals a very different Mesolcina. This valley stretches ! F4/F5
side of Switzerland. Here the from the San Bernardino Pass ⌂ Bahnhofstrasse 12,
climate and vegetation, as southwards to Bellinzona Klosters
well as the language and the and, although it is located ∑ chesagrischuna.ch
culture, are Mediterranean. in the canton of Graubünden,
Buildings show an Italian it has strong cultural links
influence, the cuisine turns with Ticino.
to pastas and antipasti, and The Castello di Misox, a La Marmite
cypress trees and palms grow ruined fortress set on a rocky Fine wines and haute
in sheltered gardens. outcrop above the town, cuisine at high altitude.
Poschiavo (Puschlav in commands a stunning view of ! F5 ⌂ Corviglia,
German) is the main town in the valley and the villages in St Moritz § 81 833 63 55
the valley. At its heart is the it. Built for the counts of Sax
Piazza Communale, a square von Misox during the 12th
lined with Italianate palazzi century, the castle was sig-
and two churches, a late 15th- nificantly extended in the
century Catholic church and 15th century and in 1480 it
a 17th-century Protestant passed into the ownership
church. Other notable build- of the Trivulizio family, from patron saint of Valle Mesolcina,
ings include the Casa Torre, a Milan. The slen der campanile and scenes symbolizing the
Romanesque tower, and the is a remnant of the castle months of the year.
Palazzo Albricci. The so-called complex, which was almost About 4 km (2.5 miles)
Spaniolenviertel (Spanish completely destroyed in 1526. south of Mesocco is Soazza,
Quarter) boasts imposing At the foot of the castle a village with an attractive
houses painted in a colourful stands the Romanesque 17th-century church. About
Moorish style. church of Santa Maria del 15 km (9 miles) south of
At nearby Cavaglia are Castello. Built in the 12th Soazza is the sleepy village
remarkable geological fea- century, the church was partly of San Vittore, where there
tures known as cauldrons. remodelled in the 17th cen- is an 8th-century chapel. The
These are natural wells, up to tury. The nave has a coffered Val Calanca, which runs into
3 m (10 ft) in diameter, that ceiling, and the walls are deco- Valle Mesolcina, is
were carved into the rock by rated with well-preserved also well worth
the circular action of stones 15th-century murals, which explor ing for
and water released by depict St George and the its beautiful
a melting glacier. Dragon, St Bernard of Siena, scenery.
266-267_EW_Switzerland.indd 267 05/12/2018 13:56
NEED TO KNOW
A classic cypress-line road in Val d’Orcia
268-269_EW_Switzerland.indd 268 14/11/2018 13:34
EW Section Openers template v1.1– 29th May 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro
Before You Go .............................................270
Getting Around ............................................272
Practical Information ................................276
268-269_EW_Switzerland.indd 269 14/11/2018 13:34
BEFORE
YOU GO
NEED TO KNOW Before You Go eventualities by considering the following points before you travel.
Forward planning is essential to any successful trip. Be prepared for all
Passports and Visas
AT A GLANCE
EU nationals and citizens of the UK, US, Canada,
CURRENCY
Australia and New Zealand need a valid passport
Swiss Franc
but do not need visas for stays of up to three
months. Consult your nearest Swiss embassy
or Switzerland’s Online Visa System if you are
travelling from outside these areas.
AVERAGE DAILY SPEND Online Visa System
∑ swiss-visa.ch
Travel Safety Advice
SAVE SPEND SPLURGE
SF 200 SF 350 SF 600 Visitors can get up-to-date travel safety
information from the US Department of State,
the UK Foreign and Commonwealth Office
and the Australian Department of Foreign
Affairs and Trade.
Australia
BOTTLED DINNER ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
WATER COFFEE BEER FOR TWO UK
SF 3.30 SF 4 SF 7 SF 100 ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
US
∑ travel.state.gov
ESSENTIAL PHRASES
Customs Information
Guten tag/bonjour/
Hello
buongiorno Limits vary if travelling from outside the EU, so
Auf wiedersehen/ check restrictions before travelling. An individual
Goodbye is permitted to carry the following within the EU
au revoir/arrivederci
for personal use:
Bitte/s’il vous plaît/ Tobacco products 250 cigarettes or 250 cigars
Please per favore or 250g of other tobacco products.
Alcohol 5 litres up to 18 per cent volume and
Thank you Danke/merci/ 1 litre over 18 per cent volume.
grazie
Cash If you plan to enter or leave Switzerland
Do you speak Sprechen Sie Englisch?/ with 10,000 Swiss francs or more in cash
English? Parlez-vous anglais?/ (or equivalent in other currencies) you must
Lei parla inglese? declare it to the customs authorities on entry
and exit to, or transit through, Switzerland.
ELECTRICITY Insurance
SUPPLY
Power sockets are It is wise to take out an insurance policy covering
type J, fitting type J theft, loss of belongings, medical problems,
(3-pin) plugs and type C cancellation and delays.
(2-pin) plugs. Standard Residents of countries in the European Union
voltage is 230V. and the European Economic Community can
270
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 270 29/11/2018 13:08
EW Need to Know template v1.2 – 13th August 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho
Gothic Pro, Soho Pro
claim free medical treatment in Switzerland with needs. The website of Mobility International
an EHIC (European Health Insurance Card). Switzerland (MIS) provides further details for
Visitors from outside these areas must arrange travellers with impaired mobility.
their own private medical insurance. You may Mietauto
have to pay up front for medical treatment. ∑ mietauto.ch
EHIC Mobility International Switzerland (MIS)
∑ gov.uk/European-health-insurance-card ∑ mis-ch.ch/reiseinfos
SBB Call Centre Handicap
Vaccinations § 0800 007 102 (within Switzerland, toll-free),
+41 51 225 78 44 (from abroad, subject to charge)
No inoculations are required for Switzerland. Switzerland Tourism
∑ myswitzerland.com
Money
Language
Major credit and debit cards are accepted in
most shops and restaurants; prepaid currency Switzerland has four national languages – French,
cards and American Express are accepted in German, Italian and Romansh. Although English
some; carry cash for smaller items. Contactless is not an official language, it is often used to
payments are becoming more widely accepted. bridge the language divides (especially in cities),
Cash machines are frequently found at banks and much official documentation is available in
and at various points in town and city centres. English. German is spoken mostly in the east,
French mostly in the west, and Italian mostly in
Booking Accommodation the southern canton of Ticino and the southern
parts of neighbouring Graubünden. Romansh is
Switzerland offers accommodation to suit all spoken only in the canton of Graubünden.
tastes and budgets, from five-star hotels, farm
stays and mountain refuges to family-run B&Bs Closures
and budget hostels. Lodgings fill up quickly and
prices are often inflated, most notably in the Monday Some shops, museums and tourist
mountain regions during ski season (December attractions are closed on Monday mornings
to April), when advance booking is essential. The or for the entire day.
website of the Swiss Hotel Association offers a Thursday Some cities have late-night shopping
com pre hensive list of accommodation. on Thursdays until 8pm, including Bern,
Swiss Hotel Association Geneva and Zürich.
∑ swisshotels.com Saturday Most post offices close at 11am; most
shops close at noon.
Travellers with Specific Needs Sunday Most shops and businesses are closed
for the day.
Switzerland offers a high standard of facilities Public holidays Most shops, churches, museums
for travellers with specific needs. Most main and restaurants either close early or all day.
sights and public buildings have wheelchair
access. Amenities in more rural areas may be PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
limited, so it is always worth calling ahead to
check that your requirements will be met. 1 Jan
For assistance at any of the 170 suitably New Year’s Day
equipped stations on the Swiss rail network, 19 Apr Good Friday
phone the SBB Call Centre Handicap one
hour before departure (or three working days 30 May Ascension Day
beforehand for international travel). Mietauto 1 Aug National Day
has details on adapted hire vehicles.
Switzerland Tourism can provide full details 25 Dec Christmas Day
of suitable hotel facilities for guests with specific
271
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 271 15/11/2018 11:23
GETTING
AROUND
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around retreat, discover how best to reach your destination and travel like a pro.
Whether you are visiting for a short city break, a ski weekend or a rural
Arriving by Air
AT A GLANCE
Zürich and Geneva airports are the main
PUBLIC TRANSPORT COSTS
hubs for long-haul flights into Switzerland.
Transatlantic flights are provided by SWISS, the
BERN
SF 2.60
United Airlines, Delta and Air Canada. Both
airports also offer flights to all major European
cities with SWISS and a large number of carriers,
One-way national airline, as well as American Airlines,
tram, bus, trolley bus including several budget airlines, such as
easyJet, which has a hub at Geneva.
GENEVA A number of smaller airports at Bern, Basel
SF 3.00 and Lugano also serve destinations within
Europe. The airports of Sion, St Gallen and
Engadin are used more for private business
One-way jets and internal flights than for scheduled
tram, bus, ferry, local train
international departures.
ZÜRICH For information on distances and journey
times between airports and cities, see the
SF 2.70 table opposite.
One-way Train Travel
bus, tram, local train
International Train Travel
TOP TIP Situated at the crossroads of major European
Major cities offer travel passes, better value routes, Switzerland has excellent international
if you plan to use public transport often. rail links. Regular high-speed trains connect the
country to all major cities in the neigh bouring
countries of France, Germany, Austria and Italy,
SPEED LIMIT and beyond. Train journeys into the country
DUAL can often compete with flights on price, and,
MOTORWAY CARRIAGEWAYS for some short-haul routes, are not very much
longer than flights door to door. Additionally,
120 100 the opening of the 57-km- (36-mile-) long
Gotthard Base Tunnel – the world’s longest
km/h km/h railway tunnel – in 2016 has significantly
(75mph) (62mph) reduced rail journey times for passengers
transiting the Alps.
Making reservations early is strongly
recommended, especially on overnight sleeper
SECONDARY URBAN
ROAD AREAS trains, as tickets get booked up quickly. Eurail
and Interrail sell tickets for multiple interna-
80 50 tional journeys and international rail passes for
trips lasting from five days up to three months.
km/h km/h Eurail
(50mph) (31mph) ∑ eurail.com
Interrail
∑ interrail.eu
272
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 272 15/11/2018 11:23
EW Need to Know template v1.2 – 13th August 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho
Gothic Pro, Soho Pro
GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORT
Airport Distance to City Taxi Fare Public Transport Journey time
Euro Airport Basel- 6 km (4 miles) SF 50 Bus 18 mins
Mulhouse-Freiburg (MLH)
Bern Airport (BRN) 6 km (4 miles) SF 50 Bus 35 mins
Geneva International 4 km (2 miles) SF 35 Train 6 mins
Airport (GVA)
Lugano –Agno Airport (LUG) 6 km (4 miles) SF 35 Bus 15 mins
Engadin Airport 7 km (4 miles) SF 100 Bus 30 mins
St Moritz-Samedan (SMV)
Sion Airport/ 2.5 km (2 miles) SF 46 Bus 4 mins
Aéroport de Sion (SIR)
St Gallen-Altenrhein 20 km (12 miles) SF 82 Bus 45 mins
Airport (ACH)
Zürich Airport (ZRH) 10 km (6 miles) SF 70 Train 10 mins
RAIL JOURNEY PLANNER
This map is a handy
reference for intercity Basel Direct train
routes
rail travel between
Switzerland’s main St Gallen
towns and cities.
Zürich
Lucerne
Bern
Lausanne
Geneva
Lugano
Bern to Basel 1 hr Geneva to Lausanne 1 hr
Bern to Geneva 2 hrs Geneva to Lugano 5 hrs
Bern to Zürich 1 hr Lugano to Basel 3.5 hrs
Bern to Lucerne 1.5 hrs Zürich to Basel 1 hr
Bern to Lugano 3.5 hrs Zürich to Lucerne 1 hr
Bern to St Gallen 2 hrs Zürich to Lugano 2.5 hrs
Geneva to Basel 3 hrs Zürich to St Gallen 1 hr
Geneva to Zürich 3 hrs
273
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 273 15/11/2018 11:23
Domestic Train Travel Boats and Ferries
Travelling by train is one of the best ways to see
the country. The comprehensive Swiss rail net In some cities, boats form an integral part of the
work is operated by Swiss Federal Railways or transport system. Yellow mouettes (busboats)
SBB/CFF/FFS (Schweizerische Bundesbahnen/ operated by Mouettes Genevoises Navigation
Chemins de Fer Fédéraux Suisses/Ferrovie shuttle foot passengers across Lake Geneva,
Federali Svizzere). Trains are modern, clean and while quirky fähri (cableferries) run by Fähri-
comfortable, service is frequent and depend ably Verein Basel have been ferrying people across
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around at platform entrances. There are heavy on Plying the waters of many of the major lakes
the Rhine in Basel since the mid19th century.
punctual and connections tie in well with tram,
bus, boat and cable car services.
A cruise on one of Switzerland’s lakes and
rivers is a relaxing way to explore the country.
Tickets must be validated in machines set
thespot fines for travellers caught with an
are oldfashioned paddle steamers and other
ves sels, including those run by SBS across the
unstamped ticket. Swiss Travel System (part of
Bodensee, CGN on Lake Geneva, SGV on Lake
Switzerland Tourism) offer a range of dis counted
Lucerne and ZSG across the Zürichsee.
travel passes for use on all modes of transport.
One of the most popular is the Swiss Travel Pass, CGN
∑ cgn.ch
which allows unlimited travel on most train, bus,
tram and boat services, dis counts on some funi
∑ faehri.ch
culars and cable cars and entry to over 500
Mouettes Genevoises Navigation
museums. There is also a Junior Travelcard for
∑ mouettesgenevoises.ch
children aged 6 to 16 years. Most travel passes Fähri-Verein Basel
can be purchased in advance from travel agen SBS
cies and Swiss tourist offices in your country. ∑ sbsag.ch
Switzerland is known for its scenic railways, SGV
which allow visitors to enjoy the spectacular ∑ lakelucerne.ch
scenery in special trains with glassroofed car ZSG
riages. Among the most popular are the Bernina ∑ zsg.ch
Express (Chur or Davos to Tirano, Italy), Golden
Pass Line (Montreux to Lucerne), Gotthard Public Transport
Panorama Express (Lucerne to Lugano) and
Glacier Express (St Moritz to Zermatt). It is S-Bahn and RER
essential to book in advance for these. Some cities, including Basel, Bern, Geneva and
Bernina Express Zürich, have comprehensive urban rail networks
∑ rhb.ch (called SBahn in German and RER in French)
Glacier Express which radiate out from the city centres to the
∑ glacierexpress.ch suburbs and neighbouring towns. Some towns
Golden Pass Line built on steep cliffs or hillsides, such as Lausanne
∑ goldenpass.ch and Fribourg, also have funicular railways.
Gotthard Panorama Express
∑ sbb.ch Metro
SBB/CFF/FFS Lausanne, the world’s smallest city, is the only
∑ sbb.ch Swiss city to have a metro. It has two lines and
Swiss Travel System 30 stops. It operates from 5:30am to midnight
∑ swisstravelsystem.com with trains every five to seven minutes.
Lausanne Metro
Long-Distance Bus Travel ∑ tl.ch
Eurolines offer several coach routes between Buses and Trams
Swiss destinations and other European cities. The quickest and easiest way of getting around
Switzerland has an extensive network of routes towns and cities is by hopping on a bus or tram.
covered by local buses and Swiss Post’s distinc These run at frequent intervals from around
tive yellow postbuses. The latter vary in size 5am to midnight. Larger cities also operate
depending on the remoteness of the des tination a reduced nightbus service at weekends.
and are useful for reaching alpine loca tions Tickets are available from machines at every
inaccessible by rail. They also carry unac com bus and tram stop, and are usually valid on all
panied luggage, which is handy for hikers. modes of transport. In most towns, the trans
Eurolines port network is divided into zones; the more
∑ eurolines.eu zones you traverse the higher the fare. Tickets
Swiss Post valid for limited periods, from 30 minutes to a
∑ swisspost.ch full day or more, are also available. These include
274
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 274 15/11/2018 11:23
EW Need to Know template v1.2 – 13th August 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho
Gothic Pro, Soho Pro
ZVV’s ZürichCard and TPG’s GenevaPass; both which are open yearround (some have tolls),
of these also offer free entry to some city attrac or to drive your car onto a train to transit via
tions. Tickets must be validated in the machine the Lötschberg, Furka, Albula or Vereina tunnels.
on the vehicle as you board.
TPG Car Rental
∑ tpg.ch To rent a car, you must be over 20 years of age
ZVV and have held a valid driver’s licence for at least
∑ zvv.ch a year. Drivers under 25 may incur a surcharge.
All major international carhire companies
Taxis have offices in the main cities and airports, and
Swiss Railways also offer a Mobility Click &
In large cities, buses and trams are ubiquitous Drive online rental service with pick up from
and inexpensive, and few people use taxis. 400 railway stations.
These cannot be hailed – they must be booked Mobility Click & Drive
in advance or engaged at a taxi rank. They are ∑ mobility.ch
expensive compared with public transport, and
metred by distance; charges are higher at night Rules of the Road
and at weekends. Marginally less expensive The legal car driving age in Switzerland is 18
Uber cars operate in Basel, Geneva, Lausanne (20 or 25 in a hire car). The Swiss drive on the
and Zürich, bookable via their app. right, and seatbelts are compulsory. It is illegal
Uber to use mobile phones while driving, or to drive
∑ uber.com under the influence of alcohol (the blood
alcohol content limit is 0.05 per cent). Children
Driving under 12 must travel in the back seat, and
undersevens must use a child seat. All vehicles
One of the best ways to explore Switzerland is must carry a warning triangle, a first aid kit and
by car. Driving here is pleasurable – the Swiss a reflective jacket, and full headlights should
have a high regard for rules of the road and be on at all times. In winter, drivers are required
take pride in having the safest roads in Europe. by law to use snow tyres and/or chains on
EU driving licences are valid. If visiting from mountain roads when indi cated by special
outside the EU, or if your licence is not in English, warning signs.
German, French or Italian, you may need to
apply for an International Driving Permit (IDP). Cycling
Driving to Switzerland Environmentally conscious Switzerland
If you bring your own foreignregistered car into encourages pedal power and, with the growing
the country, you must carry the vehicle’s regis use of ebikes, cycling has taken on a new popu
tration and insurance documents and a valid larity. Bike routes crisscross the entire country
driver’s licence. (marked by red signs with a white bicycle sym
Fuel is generally less expensive than in bol) and include many longdistance paths.
neighbouring countries. Bigger petrol stations Public bikesharing schemes are available in
are usually open from 7am to 8pm; smaller ones most major cities, such as Zürirollt in Zürich and
until 6pm. Outside these hours, petrol is widely Genèveroule in Geneva. PubliBike is a popular
available from automatic pumps. Some motor nationwide bikesharing programmes. Contact
way service stations are open 24 hours. local tourist offices for details of schemes in
To use Swiss motorways, which are indicated their town. Bicycles can also be hired at main
by green signs, drivers require a sticker called a train stations (these need not be returned to
vignette, which costs SF 40. It is sold at border the same station), and can be carried on most
crossings, petrol stations, tourist offices and postbuses and trains for a fee.
post offices. Driving on a motor way without Genèveroule
a valid vignette incurs a fine. ∑ geneveroule.ch
PubliBike
Driving in Switzerland ∑ publibike.ch
Wellmaintained motorways and major roads Zürirollt
link the major towns, and there are some spec ∑ zuerirollt.ch
tacularly scenic routes over mountain passes
and down alpine valleys to more remote towns Hitchhiking
and villages. Most of the high alpine passes are
open between June and October; alternative Hitchhiking is illegal on motorways or other
ways of crossing the Alps is to take advantage of major roads. Always consider your own safety
the Gotthard and San Bernardino road tunnels, before entering an unknown vehicle.
275
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 275 15/11/2018 11:23
PRACTICAL
INFORMATION
NEED TO KNOW Practical Information all the essential advice and information you will need during your stay.
A little local know-how goes a long way in Switzerland. Here you will find
Personal Security
AT A GLANCE
Despite Switzerland’s deserved reputation for
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
safety, visitors should be vigilant, particularly
when walking in unlit streets late at night, using
EMERGENCY
POLICE
cash machines, travelling on public transport, or
among large crowds of people in public places.
112
117
If you are a victim of theft, report it at once to
the police. Obtaining a police report will enable
you to make an insurance claim. Contact your
embassy if you have your passport stolen, or
in the event of a serious crime or accident.
AMBULANCE FIRE SERVICE
Health
144 118 Switzerland has no national health service, so
medical treatment of any kind must be paid for.
A reciprocal agreement exists with all EU nations,
so if you have an EHIC card (p273), pre sent this as
TIME ZONE soon as possible. You may have to pay the fee
CET/CEST: Central and claim it back later. Private health insurance
European Summer is recommended, especially if you are planning a
Time runs from the last skiing, mountaineering or hiking holiday, or any
Sunday in March to the extreme sports. For minor ailments, seek medi
last Sunday in October. cal supplies and advice from pharmacies. Search
the website of the SOS-Pharmacy organization
TAP WATER for open emergency pharmacies in your area.
Unless otherwise SOS-Pharmacy
stated, tap water ∑ sospharmacie.ch
in Switzerland and
water from fountains Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs
in towns and villages
is safe to drink. Smoking is banned on public transport and in
enclosed public places, and it is illegal to drive
under the influence of alcohol (the blood alcohol
TIPPING content limit is 0.05 per cent). Drug possession is
taken very seriously and there are heavy penal
Round up to the
Waiter ties, jail sentences and fines depending on the
nearest SF 5–10
type of narcotic (small amounts of cannabis are
Hotel Porter SF 5–10 permitted). Taking drugs across an international
border automatically constitutes drug traffick
ing and has a heavy penalty.
Housekeeping SF 2–5
ID
Concierge SF 10
By law you must carry valid identification at all
Taxi Driver SF 5–10 times. A photocopy of your passport photo page
(and visa if applicable) should suffice.
276
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 276 03/12/2018 17:33
EW Need to Know template v1.2 – 13th August 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho
Gothic Pro, Soho Pro
Local Customs TVA (Taxe sur la valeur ajoutée), IVA (Imposta sul
valore aggiunto) or TPV (Taglia sin la Plivalur).
Be respectful of the religious beliefs and political NonEU residents get a tax refund on purchases
opinions of the local people and try to adhere to over SF 300, subject to con ditions. Ask for a tax
local customs, both at national and cantonal receipt and relevant docu mentation at the time
level. The Swiss take their recycling seriously and of purchase, and show these at Customs (with
expect tourists to do the same. Punctuality is ID) when leaving the country for your refund.
key, whether you’re attending a business
meeting or a dinner reservation. Discount Cards
LGBT+ Safety Switzerland Tourism (p273) offer a range of
passes and tickets exclusively for visitors. Their
LGBT+ rights in Switzerland are progressive Swiss Museum Pass allows free entrance into
compared to many European countries, espe 490 museums and galleries and is avail able from
cially in major cities. However, smaller towns and tourist offices, railway stations, post offices and
rural areas are often more conservative in their larger museums. They also offer travel passes
views, and overt displays of affection may for three regions – Bernese Oberland, Central
receive a negative response from locals. Switzerland and Lake GenevaAlps.
Some cities (Bern, Lucerne, Neuchâtel and
Visiting Churches Winterthur) offer their own visitor’s pass or
and Cathedrals discount card. Others also cover the cost of
public transport, for instance, the Zürich Card,
Dress respectfully in places of worship: cover the BaselCard and the GenevaPass. Certain
your torso, upper arms and knees. regions (including the Engadin, DavosKlosters,
Arosa, Saas Fee, Villars and Adelboden) offer
Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi schemes whereby guests staying more than
one night in a participating hotel receive free
WiFi is widely available throughout Switzerland, transportation dur ing the summer.
and cafés and restaurants will usually give BaselCard
customers their WiFi password. Visitors with ∑ basel.com/en/BaselCard
EU tariffs are able to use their devices abroad GenevaPass
without being affected by roaming charges. ∑ geneve.com/en/seedo/genevapass/
Check with your service provider for details. Zürich Card
∑ zuerich.com/en/visit/yourcitytravelpass
Post
WEBSITES AND APPS
You can purchase stamps (Briefmarken/timbres/
francobolli) in post offices and some news Switzerland Tourism
agents. Allow from a couple of days to one or
two weeks for delivery of international mail, myswitzerland.com produces or partners
depending on the service you select. excellent free apps, including Family
Trips, SwitzerlandMobility, Swiss Events,
Snow Report and various city guides.
Taxes and Refunds Swiss Museums
This museums.ch app offers a wealth of
Switzerland’s standard VAT rate is 7.7 per cent,
information on museums and exhibitions.
although there is a reduced rate of 2.5 per cent Via Michelin
on certain everyday consumer goods such as
food, nonalcoholic beverages, newspapers, App providing live speed restriction and
traffic alerts, navigation and other tools.
magazines, books and medicines. Hotel stays Meteo Suisse
(including breakfast) are taxed at a special rate
of 3.7 per cent. Due to the four official lan guages, The country’s official weather app.
VAT may be called Mwst (Mehrwertsteuer),
277
270-277_EW_Switzerland.indd 277 15/11/2018 11:23
INDEX
Page numbers in bold refer to Basel (cont.) Bündner Kunstmuseum (Chur)
main entries Fasnacht 179 250
map 177 Bündner Naturmuseum (Chur)
Index A Basel Münster 182–3, 187 Bungee jumps 230
251
walk 186–7
Aare, River 76
Burghers of Calais (Rodin) 184
Bears, in Bern 75
Aarau 195
Beer
Burkart, Erika 195
Aareschlucht 96 Bear Park (Bern) 75 Bürglen 227
Abbeys see Monasteries and Bierflaschen Museum Burning of the Böögg 52
abbeys (St Gallen) 244 Buses 274–5
Absinthe 153 Bellinzona 222–3 Byron, Lord 35, 140, 144
Accommodation, booking 271 map 223
see also Hotels Bern 10, 16, 47, 62–79 C
Adelboden 98–9 bars 72
Aigle 145 bears 75 Cabaret Voltaire (Zürich) 39, 169
Air travel 272–3 itinerary 23 Calvin, Jean 123
Airolo 232–3 map 64–5 Canyoning 45
Alcohol 276 restaurants 74 Cars 274–5
Aletsch Glacier 31, 88–9 walk 78–9 car rental 271, 275
Alphorns 32 Bernese Oberland see rules of the road 275
Altdorf 227 Mittelland, Bernese Oberland speed limits 272
Andermatt 237 and Valais see also Tours
Antikenmuseum (Basel) 178 Bernina Pass 263 Cartoon Museum (Basel) 39
Appenzell 258 Bernisches Historisches Casa Rusca (Locarno) 221
Apps 277 Museum (Bern) 77 Castles
Aquatis 35 Biel/Bienne 93 Castelgrande (Bellinzona)
Architects 41 Bierflaschen Museum (St Gallen) 222
Architekturmuseum (Basel) 244 Castello di Montebello
179 Bike-sledges 52, 97 (Bellinzona) 223
Arosa 261 Bischöflicher Hof (Chur) 248 Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Art Bisses (irrigation channels) (Bellinzona) 223
Dada 169 106 Castello Visconteo (Locarno)
see also Museums and Boats 42 220
galleries ferries and cruises 274 Château de Chillon 46–7, 51,
Ascona 230, 234 sailing 49 140–41
Augusta Raurica 46, 194 ZSG (Zürichsee Château de Grandson 150
Augustinergasse (Basel) 180, Schifffahrtsgesellschaft) Château de Gruyères 146–7
187 (Zürichsee) 170 Château d’Yverdon 148
Augustinerkirche (Zürich) 167 Bobsleighs 44 Château St-Maire (Lausanne)
Avenches 46, 149 Bodensee 256–7 133
Bodmer Foundation (Geneva) Ruine Stein (Baden) 188
B Bonivard, François 140 Cathedrals 277
Schloss Thun 94
123
Baden 188–91 Bourbaki Panorama (Lucerne) Basel Münster 182–3, 187
map 189 206 Cathédrale Notre-Dame
Badenfahrt (Baden) 191 Bridges 40–41 (Lausanne) 136–7
Bad Ragaz 260 Chapel Bridge (Lucerne) 202, Cathédrale St-Pierre (Geneva)
Bahnhofstrasse (Zürich) 166 211 116–17, 124
Bains des Pâquis (Geneva) 122 Charles Kuonen suspension Chur Cathedral 252–3
Bärenplatz (Bern) 72, 78 bridge (Randa) 40 Münster St Vinzenz (Bern)
Barfüsserplatz (Basel) 186 Holzbrücke (Baden) 190 66–7, 79
Barrage de la Grande Dixence Mittlere Rheinbrücke (Basel) St Gallen Cathedral 246, 247
105 186 St Ursen Kathedrale
Bars Spreuerbrücke (Lucerne) 205 (Solothurn) 92
Bern 72 Brienz 95 see also Churches
Geneva 121 Brienzersee 84–5 Cattle descents 33, 147
Zürich 168 Brig 109 Caves
Basel 12, 176–87 Brissago 234 Grottes de Vallorbe 148
Basel for art lovers 38 Bundeshaus (Bern) 72–3 Centovalli 230
278
278-284_EW_Switzerland.indd 278 29/11/2018 15:17
EW Index template v1.1 – 25th October 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro
Central Switzerland and Ticino Churches (cont.) Einsiedeln, Kloster 214–15
20, 198–237 Madonna di Ponte (Brissago) Einsteinhaus (Bern) 73
hotels 225 234 Electricity supply 270
itinerary 26–7 Martinskirche (Basel) 186 Emergency numbers 276
map 200–201 Pfarrkirche Mariä Emmental 94
restaurants 231 Himmelfahrt (Baden) Engadine Valley 262
Chapel Bridge (Lucerne) 202, 188–9 Engelberg 225
211 St Laurenzenkirche (St Gallen) Engineering 40–41
Chaplin, Charlie 245 Erlacherhof (Bern) 74
Chaplin’s World (Vevey) 144 St Peterskapelle (Lucerne) 211 Estavayer-le-Lac 149
Charles Kuonen suspension Santuario della Madonna del Europaweg 40
bridge (Randa) 40 Sasso (Locarno) 221 Events see Festival and events
Château d’Oex 146 see also Cathedrals;
Châteaux see Castles Monasteries F
Cheese Climate change 88
Appenzeller Showcase Dairy Clocks Ferries 274
(Schaukäserei) 258, 259 Zytglogge (Bern) 70–71, 79 Festivals and events 54–5
fondue 11, 36 Closures 271 Badenfahrt (Baden) 191
Gruyère 146 Collection de l’Art Brut Basel Fasnacht 179
Schaukäserei (Emmental) 94 (Lausanne) 134 Burning of the Böögg 52
Chiesa see Churches Constance, Lake see Bodensee food and drink 37
Children 34–5 Crans-Montana 107 Lötschental 109
Schweizer Kindermuseum Creux de Van 30, 153 Film locations 51, 230
(Baden) 191 Currency 270, 271 Fondation de l’Hermitage
Spielzeugmuseum (Riehen) Customs information 270 (Lausanne) 134–5
194 Cycling 275 Food and drink 36–7
Spielzeug Welten Museum bicycle hire 275 absinthe 153
Basel 177 mountain biking 45 festivals 37
Chocolate 36 Simmental Cycle Route 103 food in St Moritz 264
Chur 248–53 Trotti bikes 224 see also Cheese;
map 249 Restaurants; Wine
restaurants 251 D Fotomuseum (Winterthur) 192
Chur Cathedral 252–3 Fountains
Churches 277 Dada 39, 169 Jet d’Eau (Geneva) 120
Augustinerkirche (Zürich) 167 Dams 41 Franches-Montagnes 152–3
Baselgia San Jon (Müstair) David Presenting Saul with the Franziskanerkirche (Lucerne)
263 Head of Goliath (Rembrandt) 204
Chiesa Collegiata dei Santi 184 Frauenfeld 256
Pietro e Stefano Davos 261 Fraumünster (Zürich) 168–9
(Bellinzona) 222–3 Discount cards 277 Fribourg 142–3
Chiesa di San Vittore Doctors 276 map 143
(Locarno) 221 Dornach 195 Frogs
Chiesa Nuova (Locarno) 221 Doyle, Arthur Conan 96 Musée des Grenouilles
Chiesa San Francesco Driving see Cars (Estavayer-le-Lac) 149
(Locarno) 220 Drugs 276 Furka Pass 236
Église St-Laurent (Lausanne) Furkastrasse 236
132 E
Franziskanerkirche (Lucerne) G
204 Eastern Switzerland and
Fraumünster (Zürich) 168–9 Graubünden 21, 238–67 Galleries see Museums and
Grossmünster (Zürich) 169 hotels 265 galleries
Jesuit Church (Lucerne) 204 map 240–41 Gardens see Parks and gardens
Kirche St Luzi (Chur) 250 restaurants 267 Geneva 18, 51, 110–25
Kirche St Martin (Chur) 249 Eglisau 197 bars 121
Kirche St Martin (Zillis) 265 Église St-Laurent (Lausanne) 132 itinerary 115
Kirche St Peter (Zürich) 167 Ehrmann, Marianne 259 map 112–13
Kirche St Stephen (Chur) 249 Eidgenössische Technische restaurants 123
Leonhardskirche (Basel) Hochschule (Zürich) 170 walk 124–5
178–9 Eiger 97 Geneva, Lake 138–9
279
278-284_EW_Switzerland.indd 279 29/11/2018 15:17
Gerechtigkeitsgasse (Bern) Historisches Museum (Lucerne) Kapellplatz (Lucerne) 206, 211
74–5, 79 204 Kauffmann, Angelica 250
Giger, H R 250 Historisches und Kirche see Churches
Glacier, Aletsch 31, 88–9 Völkerkundemuseum Kirchner Museum (Davos) 261
Glarus 266 (St Gallen) 245 KKL (Lucerne) 204
Gletschergarten (Lucerne) History 46–7, 56–9 Klee, Paul 38, 77
206–7 Hitchhiking 275 Kleinbasel (Basel) 181
Goetheanum (Dornach) 195 Hodler, Ferdinand 69 Kloster Einsiedeln 214–15
Index Golf 103, 107, 260, 261 Holmes, Sherlock 96 Kloster Königsfelden 196
Göschenen 237
Holzbrücke (Baden) 190
Kloster Muri 196
Hospental 237
Klosters 266
Grand St Bernard Pass 103
Grandson 150 Hospitals 276 Koller, Xavier 226
Graubünden see Eastern Hotels Kornhaus (Bern) 78
Switzerland and Graubünden booking 271 Kramgasse (Bern) 73, 79
Grimsel Pass 237 Central Switzerland and Kunsthalle (Basel) 179
Grindelwald 96 Ticino 225 Kunsthalle (Bern) 75
Velogemel (bike-sledge) 52, Eastern Switzerland and Kunst Halle Sankt Gallen
97 Graubünden 265 (St Gallen) 245
Grossmünster (Zürich) 169 Mittelland, Bernese Kunsthalle Winterthur 192
Grottes de Vallorbe 148 Oberland and Valais Kunsthaus Zürich 39, 164–5
Gruyères 146–7 95, 99 Kunstmuseum Basel 38, 184–5
Gstaad 102 Kunstmuseum (Bern) 39, 68–9
Kunstmuseum (Lucerne) 203
H I Ice hockey 49 Kunst Museum Winterthur 193
Küssnacht am Rigi 224
Haller, Hermann Ice on the River (Monet) 69
Atelier Hermann Haller Ice skating 43 L
(Zürich) 171 ID 277
Hauptbahnhof (Zürich) 166 Île Rousseau (Geneva) 120 La Brevine 152
Haus zum Kirschgarten (Basel) Innertkirchen 236 La Chaux-de-Fonds 152
179 Insurance 270–71 Lakes 11, 42–3
Health care 276 Interlaken 84–5 Bodensee 256–7
Hiking 13, 87 International Red Cross and Brienzersee 84–5
Historic buildings Red Crescent Museum Lac St Léonard 104
Bischöflicher Hof (Chur) 248 (Geneva) 122 Lake Geneva 138–9
Casa Rusca (Locarno) 221 Internet access 277 Lake Lugano 216–17
Château de Tourbillon (Sion) Isole di Brissago 234 Lake Maggiore 234–5
104 Itineraries Oeschinensee 90–91
Château de Valère (Sion) 104 2 days in Geneva 115 Thunersee 84–5
Château St-Maire (Lausanne) 4 days in Bern and the Urnersee 226–7
133 Bernese Oberland 23 Walensee 260
Haus zum Kirschgarten 5 days in Western Zürichsee 170
(Basel) 179 Switzerland 25 Langstrasse (Zürich) 166–7
Ital-Reding-Haus (Schwyz) 8 days in Central Switzerland Language 270, 271
226 26–7 Lausanne 130–37
Käfigturm (Bern) 72 3 days in Zürich map 131
Kornhaus (Bern) 78 159 Metro 274
Maison Rousseau (Geneva) A week in Valais 28–9 restaurants 134
124 shopping 133
Maison Tavel (Geneva) 124 J Lauterbrunnen 50, 97
Palais de Rumine (Lausanne) Le Bain Turc (Vallotton) 119
132–3 Jardin Anglais (Geneva) 120 Le Locle 151
Palazzo della Conferenza Jesuit Church (Lucerne) Leonhardskirche (Basel) 178–9
(Locarno) 221 204 Les Diablerets 145
Spalentor (Basel) 176–7 Jet d’Eau (Geneva) 120 Leukerbad 109
Stadtturm (Baden) 188 Jüdisches Museum der Leysin 144
see also Castles; Cathedrals; Schweiz (Basel) 176 LGBT safety 277
Churches; Libraries; Jungfraujoch 11, 97 Libraries
Monasteries Stadt- und
Historisches Museum Baden K Universitätsbibliothek
189–90 (Bern) 74
Historisches Museum (Basel) Kaisterstuhl 197 Stiftsbibliothek (St Gallen)
179, 187 Kandersteg 90, 99 244–5
280
278-284_EW_Switzerland.indd 280 29/11/2018 15:18
EW Index template v1.1 – 25th October 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro
Libraries (cont.) MEG (Ethnographic Museum of Museums and galleries (cont.)
Thomas-Mann-Archiv Geneva) 123 Architekturmuseum (Basel)
(Zürich) 170 Meiringen 96 179
Limmatquai (Zürich) 169 Melenreuss Pass 237 Atelier Hermann Haller
Lindenhof (Zürich) 167 Mesocco 267 (Zürich) 171
Local customs 277 Metro Augusta Raurica 194
Locarno 220–21, 235 Lausanne 274 Barryland (Martigny) 102
map 221 Migros Museum für Basler Papiermühle (Basel)
Lötschental Gegenwartskunst (Zürich) 180
customs 109 166 Bernisches Historisches
Lowenbrau Complex (Zürich) 39 Miraculous Draught of Fishes Museum (Bern) 77
Löwendenkmal (Lucerne) 205 (Witz) 119 Bierflaschen Museum (St
Lucerne 202–7 Mittelland, Bernese Oberland Gallen) 244
map 203 and Valais 17, 81–109 Bodmer Foundation (Geneva)
walk 210–11 hotels 95, 99 123
Lugano, Lake 216–17 itinerary 28–9 Bourbaki Panorama (Lucerne)
Lugano walk 218–19 map 82–3 206
restaurants 96, 107 Bundesbriefmuseum
M Mittlere Rheinbrücke (Basel) 186 Bündner Kunstmuseum
(Schwyz) 226
Mobile phones 277
Madonna di Ponte (Brissago) Monasteries and abbeys (Chur) 250
234 Kloster Einsiedeln 214–15 Bündner Naturmuseum
Magadino 235 Kloster Königsfelden 196 (Chur) 251
Maggiore, Lake 234–5 Kloster Muri 196 Cabaret Voltaire (Zürich) 39
Maienfeld 261 Zisterzienserkloster Cartoon Museum (Basel) 39
Maison Rousseau (Geneva) 124 (Wettingen) 197 Castello di Montebello
Maison Tavel (Geneva) 121, 124 Monet, Claude (Bellinzona) 223
Mann, Thomas Ice on the River 69 Castello di Sasso Corbaro
Thomas-Mann-Archiv Money 270, 271 (Bellinzona) 223
(Zürich) 170 Monte Generoso 31 Centre Pasquart (Biel) 93
Maps Monte Rosa 107 Chaplin’s World (Vevey)
Baden 189 Mont Fort 31 144
Basel 177, 186–7 Montreux 145 Collection de l’Art Brut
Bellinzona 223 Monuments (Lausanne) 134
Bern 64–5, 78–9 Löwendenkmal (Lucerne) 205 Dorfmuseum (Riehen) 194
Central Switzerland and Mur de la Réformation Einsteinhaus (Bern) 73
Ticino 200–201 (Geneva) 123 Fondation Beyeler (Riehen)
Chur 249 Morat see Murten 194
Eastern Switzerland and Mountain biking 45 Fondation de l’Hermitage
Graubünden 240–41 Mountains 31, 44–5 (Lausanne) 134–5
Fribourg 143 Eiger 97 Fondation Pierre Gianadda
Geneva 112–13, 124–5 Jungfraujoch 11, 97 (Martigny) 102
Lake Maggiore 234–5 Matterhorn 30, 87 Forum der Schweizer
Lausanne 131 Pilatus 212–13 Geschichte (Schwyz) 226
Locarno 221 Rigi 31, 224–5 Fotomuseum (Winterthur)
Lucerne 203, 210–11 Münstergasse (Bern) 74, 79 193
Lugano 218–19 Münsterplatz (Basel) 187 Geigenbauschule (Brienz) 95
Mittelland, Bernese Oberland Münster St Vinzenz (Bern) 66–7, Giovanni-Segantini Museum
and Valais 82–3 79 (St Moritz) 264
Northern Switzerland 174–5 Muri 196 Haus zum Kirschgarten
rail journey planner 273 Mürren 98 (Basel) 179
St Gallen 245 Murten/Morat 147 Historisches Museum Baden
Switzerland 14–15 Museums and galleries 38–9 189–90
Three Passes tour 236–7 Aargauer Kunsthaus (Aarau) Historisches Museum (Basel)
Western Switzerland 128–9 195 179, 187
Winterthur 193 Altes Zeughaus (Solothurn) Historisches Museum
Zürich 156–7 92 (Lucerne) 204
Marktgasse (Bern) 73, 78 Antikenmuseum (Basel) Historisches und
Marktplatz (Basel) 178, 186 178 Völkerkundemuseum (St
Marktplatz (St Gallen) 245 Appenzeller Gallen) 245
Martigny 102 Brauchtumsmuseum 258 International Red Cross and
Martinskirche (Basel) 186 Appenzell Folklore Museum Red Crescent Museum
Matterhorn 30, 87 258 (Geneva) 122
281
278-284_EW_Switzerland.indd 281 29/11/2018 15:18
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Jüdisches Museum der Museum Alpin (Pontresina) Swiss National Museum
Schweiz (Basel) 176 263 (Zürich) 46
Kirchner Museum (Davos) 261 Museum Appenzell 258 Swiss Open-Air Museum
Klostermuseum St Georgen Museum Burg Zug 224 Ballenberg 95
(Stein am Rhein) 257 Museum der Kulturen (Basel) Swiss Transport Museum
Kunsthalle (Basel) 179 180, 187 (Lucerne) 208–9
Kunsthalle (Bern) 75 Museum Engiadinais (St Technorama (Winterthur)
Moritz) 264, 265
192
Index Kunst Halle Sankt Gallen (St Museum für Tell Museum (Bürglen) 227
Gallen) 245
Textilmuseum (St Gallen) 244
Kunsthalle Winterthur 192
Gegenwartskunst (Basel)
Kunsthaus (Zug) 224 180 Wine Museum Sierre 104–5
Kunsthaus Zürich 39, 164–5 Museum für Kommunikation Wocher Panorama (Thun) 94,
Kunstmuseum Basel 38, (Bern) 76 95
182–5 Museum für Urgeschichte(n) Zentrum Paul Klee (Bern) 38
Kunstmuseum (Bern) 39, (Zug) 224 Zunfthaus zur Meisen
68–9 Museum Langmatt (Baden) (Zürich) 167
Kunstmuseum (Lucerne) 203 191 Müstair 262–3
Kunstmuseum (Olten) 92 Museum Rietberg (Zürich)
Kunstmuseum (Solothurn) 92 171 N
Kunstmuseum (Thun) 94, 95 Museum Tinguely (Basel) 38,
Kunst Museum Winterthur 181 National Park, Swiss 254–5
193 Naturhistorisches Museum Natural wonders 30–31
Lindwurm Museum (Stein am (Basel) 180 Naturhistorisches Museum
Rhein) 257 Naturhistorisches Museum (Bern) 77
Lowenbrau Complex (Zürich) (Bern) 77 Naturmuseum (Lucerne) 205
39 Naturmuseum (Lucerne) 205 Neuchâtel 150–51
Maison d’Ailleurs (Yverdon- Neues Museum Biel 93 Niederdorf (Zürich) 169
les-Bains) 148 Nietzsche Haus (Sils) 265 Nietzsche Haus (Sils) 265
MEG (Ethnographic Museum Nutli-Hüschi (Klosters) 266 Nightlife
of Geneva) 123 Olympic Museum (Lausanne) Zürich 13
Migros Museum für 49, 134 Night sledging 144
Gegenwartskunst (Zürich) Palais de Rumine (Lausanne) Northern Switzerland 18,
166 132–3 172–97
Musée Barbier-Mueller Pharmazie-historisches map 174–5
(Geneva) 121 Museum Basel 178
Musée Baud (Ste-Croix) 150 Rätisches Museum (Chur) O
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire 248
(Geneva) 39, 118–19 Rebbaumuseum (Riehen) Obere Gasse (Chur) 251
Musée de la Vigne et du Vin 194 Oeschinensee 31, 90–91
(Aigle) 145 Richard Wagner-Museum Offbeat Switzerland 52–3
Musée des Grenouilles (Lucerne) 207 Old Town (Bellinzona) 222
(Estavayer-le-Lac) 149 Römermuseum 194 Olten 92
Musée du CIMA (Ste-Croix) Rosengart Collection Olympic Museum (Lausanne)
150 (Lucerne) 206 49, 134
Musée du Fer et du Chemin de Sammlung E G Bührle (Zürich) Opernhaus (Zürich) 170–71
Fer (Vallorbe) 148 171 Outdoor activities see Sports
Musée Historique (Lausanne) Sammlung Oskar Reinhart am
132 Römerholz (Winterthur) P
Musée Historique (Murten) 193
147 Schanfigg Heimatmuseum Palais de Rumine (Lausanne)
Musée International de (Arosa) 261 132–3
l’Etiquette (Aigle) 145 Schweizerisches Alpines Palais des Nations (Geneva)
Musée International Museum (Bern) 76 122–3
d’Horlogerie (La Chaux-de- Schweizerisches Palazzo della Conferenza
Fonds) 152 Landesmuseum (Zürich) (Locarno) 221
Musée Jenisch (Vevey) 144 162–3 Paragliding 44
Musée Romain (Avenches) Sherlock Holmes Museum Parks and gardens
149 (Meiringen) 96 Bear Park (Bern) 75
Museo Nazionale del San Spielzeugmuseum (Riehen) Chinagarten (Zürich) 171
Gottardo 233 194 Gletschergarten (Lucerne)
Museo Sasso San Gottardo Spielzeug Welten Museum 206–7
233 Basel 177 Jardin Anglais (Geneva) 120
282
278-284_EW_Switzerland.indd 282 29/11/2018 15:18
EW Index template v1.1 – 25th October 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro
Parks and gardens (cont.) Regierungsplatz (Chur) 250–51 Schwyz 226
Parc des Bastions (Geneva) Reinhart, Oskar Segantini, Giovanni 264
123 Sammlung Oskar Reinhart am Shelley, Mary 51
Parc Mon-Repos (Lausanne) Römerholz (Winterthur) Shopping
134–5 193 Lausanne 133
Städtische Sukkulenten- Rembrandt taxes and refunds 277
Sammlung (Zürich) 171 David Presenting Saul with Zürich 160–61
Zürichhorn Park (Zürich) 171 the Head of Goliath 184 Sierre 104–5
Parliament Restaurants Sils 265
Bundeshaus (Bern) 72–3 Bern 74 Simmental 103
Passes Central Switzerland and Simplon Pass 108
Bernina Pass 263 Ticino 231 Sion 104
Grand St Bernard Pass 103 Chur 251 Skating 43
St Gotthard Pass 233 Eastern Switzerland and Skiing 12, 48, 262
San Bernardino Pass 265 Graubünden 267 Sledging 11, 44
Simplon Pass 108 Geneva 123 night sledging 144
Three Passes tour 236–7 Lausanne 134 Velogemel (bike-sledge) 52,
Passports 270, 277 Mittelland, Bernese Oberland 97
Personal security 276 and Valais 96, 107 Smoking 276
Pfarrkirche Mariä Himmelfahrt Zürich 167 Solothurn 92
(Baden) 188–9 see also Food and drink Spalentor (Basel) 176–7
Pharmacies 276 Rhaetian Railway 41, 257 Spa resorts
Pharmazie-historisches Rheinfall 43, 256 Baden 191
Museum Basel 178 Richard Wagner-Museum Bad Ragaz 260
Phones 277 (Lucerne) 207 Centre Thermal (Yverdon-
Photography Riehen 194 les-Bains) 148
Fotomuseum (Winterthur) Rigi 31, 224–5 Leukerbad 109
192 Rochers-de-Naye 31 St Moritz 264–5
Piazza Grande (Locarno) 220 Rodin, Auguste Thermalbad and Spa Zürich
Pilatus 212–13 Burghers of Calais 184 171
Place de la Palud (Lausanne) Romans 46, 194 Yverdon-les-Bains 148
130–31 Ronco 234 Specific needs, travellers with
Place du Bourg-de-Four Rosengart Collection (Lucerne) 271
(Geneva) 120, 125 206 Speed limits 272
Place St-François (Lausanne) Rousseau, Jean-Jacques Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel
131–2 Maison Rousseau (Geneva) 177
Police 276 124 Sports and outdoor events
Pontresina 263 Ruine Stein (Baden) 188 44–5, 48–9
Poschiavo 267 Rules of the road 275 Olympic Museum (Lausanne)
Postal services 277 Rütli meadow (Lucerne) 46, 57 49, 134
Promenade Lungolago Schwingen (Swiss wrestling)
Giuseppe Motta (Locarno) 221 S 32
Public holidays 271 Spreuerbrücke (Lucerne)
Public transport 272, 274 Saas-Fee 108 205
Safety 270, 276, 277 Spyri, Johanna 34
Q Sailing 49 Stadthaus (Baden) 189
Städtische Sukkulenten-
Salle Métropole (Lausanne) 130
Quartier Des Bains (Geneva) Sammlung E G Bührle (Zürich) Sammlung (Zürich) 171
122 171 Stadtturm (Baden) 188
Sammlung Oskar Reinhart am St Alban (Basel) 180
R San Bernardino Pass 265 Stans 225
Römerholz (Winterthur) 193
Ste-Croix 150
Rafting 45 Santuario della Madonna del Stein am Rhein 257
Railways see Train travel Sasso (Locarno) 221 Steiner, Rudolf 195
Rapperswil 259 Schaffhausen 43, 242–3 Sternenplatz (Lucerne) 211
Rathaus (Basel) 180, 186 Schweizerisches Alpines St Gallen 244–7
Rathaus (Bern) 75, 79 Museum (Bern) 76 map 245
Rathaus (Chur) 250 Schweizerisches St Gallen Cathedral 246, 247
Rathaus (Lucerne) 205, 210 Landesmuseum (Zürich) St Gotthard Pass 233
Rathaus (Winterthur) 192 162–3 Museo Sasso San Gottardo
Rathaus (Zürich) 169 Schweizer Kindermuseum 233
Rätisches Museum (Chur) 248 (Baden) 191 Stiftsbibliothek (St Gallen)
Regensberg 197 Schwingen (Swiss wrestling) 32 244–5
283
278-284_EW_Switzerland.indd 283 29/11/2018 15:18
St Laurenzenkirche (St Gallen) Travel safety advice 270 Weissenstein 92–3
245 Trient Valley 105 Wengen 98
St Moritz 264–5 Trotti bikes 224 Western Switzerland 17,
St Peterskapelle (Lucerne) 211 126–53
St-Pierre-de-Clages 104 U itinerary 25
St-Ursanne 153 map 128–9
Susten Pass 236 UNESCO 47 Wettingen 197
Swissminiatur 35 United Nations 122–3 Whisky 36
Index Swiss National Museum (Zürich) Universität (Basel) 176 Whitewater rafting 45
46
Urnersee 226–7
Wi-Fi 277
Swiss National Park 254–5
Wine 13, 37
Swiss Open-Air Museum V Musée de la Vigne et du Vin
Ballenberg 95 (Aigle) 145
Swiss Transport Museum Vaccinations 271 Musée International de
(Lucerne) 208–9 Valais see Mittelland, Bernese l’Etiquette (Aigle) 145
Oberland and Valais Rebbaumuseum (Riehen) 194
T Val Bavona 232 Vineyards of Lake Geneva
Val Bregaglia 264
139
Tap water 276 Val d’Anniviers 106–7 Wine Museum Sierre 104–5
Taxes 277 Val d’Hérens 106 Winterthur 192–3
Taxis 274 Valle di Blenio 232 map 193
Technorama (Winterthur) 192 Vallée de Joux 151 Witz, Konrad
Tell, William 227 Valle Maggia 231 Miraculous Draught of Fishes
Tennis 48 Valle Verzasca 230–31 119
Textilmuseum (St Gallen) 244 Vallorbe 148
Three Passes tour 236–7 Vallotton, Félix Y
Thun 94–5 Le Bain Turc 119
Thunersee 84–5 Velogemel (bike-sledge) 52, Yodelling 33
Ticino see Central Switzerland 97 Yverdon-les-Bains 148
and Ticino Verbier 102–3
Time zone 276 VerticAlp Emosson 105 Z
Tinguely, Jean 38, 181 Vevey 51, 144
Tipping 276 Via ferrata 45, 90 Zentrum Paul Klee (Bern) 38, 77
Titlis 31 Villars-sur-Ollon 146 Zermatt 87
Toggenburg 259 Vineyards Zillis 265
Tolkien, J R R 50 Lake Geneva 139 Zofingen 194–5
Tour Bel-Air (Lausanne) 130 Vira 235 Zoo des Marécottes 105
Tours Visas 270 Zug 224
Lake Maggiore drive 234–5 Vitznau 224–5 Zunfthaus zur Meisen (Zürich)
Three Passes tour 236–7 167
Town halls see Rathaus; W Zürich 19, 154–71
Stadthaus bars 168
Toys Wagner, Richard itinerary 159
Schweizer Kindermuseum Richard Wagner-Museum map 156–7
(Baden) 191 (Lucerne) 207 nightlife 13
Spielzeugmuseum (Riehen) Walensee 260 restaurants 167
194 Walks shopping 160–61
Spielzeug Welten Museum Basel 186–7 Zürichhorn Park (Zürich) 171
Basel 177 Bern 78–9 Zürichsee 170
Traditions 32–3 Geneva 124–5 Zytglogge (Bern) 70–71, 79
Train travel 10, 272 Lucerne 210–11
Centovalli Railway 230 Lugano 218–19
cogwheel railway (Pilatus) 212 Wassen 237
Hauptbahnhof (Zürich) 166 Watchmaking industry 151
journey planner 273 Musée International
mountain railways 40 d’Horlogerie (La Chaux-
Musée du Fer et du Chemin de-Fonds) 152
de Fer (Vallorbe) 148 Water, drinking 276
Rhaetian Railway 41, 257 Waterfalls
Trams 274 Reichenbachfälle 96
Travel 272–5 Rheinfall 43, 256
Swiss Transport Museum Websites 277
(Lucerne) 208–9 Weinmarkt (Lucerne) 207, 210
284
278-284_EW_Switzerland.indd 284 29/11/2018 15:18
EW Index template v1.1 – 25th October 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro
PHRASE BOOK
German is the most widely spoken language in from standard German, so some of the most
Switzerland, followed by French and Italian. Swiss commonly used expressions in Swiss German
German, which is used in everyday speech, differs are marked by an asterisk.
IN EMERGENCY German French Italian
Help! Hilfe! Au secours! Aiuto!
Stop! Halt! Arrêtez! Alt!
Call a doctor! Holen Sie einen Artz! Appelez un médecin! Chiami un medico!
… an ambulance! … einen Krankenwagen! … une ambulance! … una ambulanza!
… the police! … die Polizei! … la police! … la polizia!
Where is the hospital? Wo finde ich das Krankenhaus? Où est l’hôpital? Dov’è l’ospedale?
COMMUNICATION ESSENTIALS
Yes Ja Oui Si
No Nein Non No
Please Bitte S’il vous plaît Per favore
Thank you Danke vielmals Merci Grazie
Excuse me Entschuldigen Sie Excusez-moi Mi scusi
*Äxgüsi
Hello Guten Tag Salut Salve/Ciao
*Grüezi
Goodbye Auf Widersehen Au revoir Arrivederci
*Ufwiederluege
Bye! Tschüss! Salut! Ciao!
here hier ici qui
there dort là la
What? Was? Quel/Quelle? Quale?
When? Wann? Quand? Quando?
Where? Wo/Wohin? Oé? Dove?
USEFUL PHRASES AND WORDS
Where is …? Wo befindet sich…? Où est …? Dov’è…?
Where are …? Wo befinden sich…? Oùsont…? Dove sono…?
Do you speak English? Sprechen Sie Englisch? Parlez-vous anglais? Parla inglese?
I understand Ich verstehe Je comprends Capisco
I don’t understand Ich verstehe nicht Je ne comprends pas Non capisco
I’m sorry Es tut mir leid Je suis désolé Mi dispiace
big gross grand grande
small klein petit piccolo
open auf/offen ouvert aperto
closed zu/geschlossen fermé chiuso
left links à gauche a sinistra
right rechts à droite a destra
near in der Nähe près vicino
far weit loin lontano
early früh de bonne heure presto
late spät en retard tardi
entrance Eingang/Einfahrt l’entrée l’entrata
exit Ausgang/Ausfahrt la sortie l’uscita
toilet WC/Toilette les toilettes/les WCs il gabinetto
this diese ce questo
that das cette quello
MAKING A TELEPHONE CALL
I’d like to make a long-distance call. Ich möchte ein Je voudrais faire un interurbain. Vorrei fare una interurbana.
Fernsgespräch machen.
I’ll try again later. Ich versuche es später Je rapellerai plus tard. Ritelefono pié tardi.
noch einmal.
Can I leave a message? Kann ich etwas Est ce que je peux laisser Posso lasciare
ausrichten? un message? un messaggio?
STAYING IN A HOTEL
Do you have a vacant room? Haben Sie Est-ce que vous avez Avete camere libere?
ein Zimmer frei? une chambre libre?
double room ein Doppelzimmer une chambre à deux una camera doppia
twin room ein Doppelzimmer mit une chambre à deux lits una camera con due letti
zwei Betten
single room ein Einzelzimmer une chambre una camera singola
à une personne
with a bath/shower mit Bad/Dusche avec salle de bains/douche con bagno/doccia
How much is the room? Wievel kostet Combien coûte Quanto costa la camera?
das Zimmer? la chambre?
Where is the bathroom? Wo ist das Bad? Où est la salle de bains? Dov’è il bagno?
with breakfast mit Frühstück avec petit-déjeuner con prima colazione
with half-board mit Halbpension en demi-pension mezza pensione
dormitory Schlafsaal le dortoir il dormitorio
key Schlüssel la clef la chiave
I have a reservation Ich habe ein J’ai fait Ho fatto una
Zimmer reserviert une réservation prenotazione
285
285-286_EW_Switzerland.indd 285 05/12/2018 13:43
SIGHTSEEING
bus der Bus l’autobus el autobus
tram die Strassenbahn le tramway el tram
train der Zug le train il treno
bus station der Busbahnhof la gare routière l’autostazione
train station der Bahnhof la gare la stazione
boat das Boot le bateau la barca
parking der Parkplatz la place de stationnement il parcheggio
car park das Parkhaus le parking l’autosilo
(hire) bicycle das Fahrrad/das Mietvelo le vélo (de location) la bicicletta (a noleggio)
airport der Flughafen l’aéroport l’aeroporto
church die Kirche l’église la chiesa
cathedral der Dom la cathédrale il duomo/la cattedrale
main square der Hauptplatz la place centrale la piazza principale
post office das Postamt le bureau de poste la posta
tourist office das Verkehrsamt l’office du tourisme l’ente turistico
TIME
morning der Morgan le matin la mattina
afternoon der Nachmittag l’après-midi il pomeriggio
evening das Abend le soir la sera
yesterday gestern hier ieri
today heute aujourd’hui oggi
tomorrow morgen demain domani
Monday Montag lundi lunedì
Tuesday Dienstag mardi martedì
Wednesday Mittwoch mercredi mercoledì
Thursday Donnerstag jeudi giovedì
Friday Freitag vendredi venerdì
Saturday Samstag/*Sonnabend samedi sabato
Sunday Sonntag dimanche domenica
SHOPPING
How much does this cost? Wieviel kostet das? C’est combien, s’il vous plait? Quant’è, per favore?
I would like… Ich hätte gern… Je voudrais… Vorrei…
Do you have…? Haben Sie…? Est-ce que vous avez… Avere…?
bank Bank la banque la banca
chemist/pharmacy Apotheke la pharmacie la farmacia
market Markt le marché il mercato
travel agent Reisebüro l’agence de voyages l’agenzia di viaggi
EATING OUT
Have you got a table for…? Haben sie einen Tisch für …? Avez-vous une table pour…? Avete una tavola per …?
The bill/check, please Zahlen, bitte L’addition, s’il vous plait Il conto, per favore
I am a vegetarian Ich bin Vegetarier(in) Je suis végétarien(ne) Sono vegetariano(a)
waitress/waiter Fräulein/Herr Ober Mademoiselle/Monsieur Cameriera/Camariere
menu die Spiesekarte le menu/la carte il mené
wine list die Weinkarte la carte des vins la lista dei vini
breakfast das Frühstück le petit déjeuner la prima colazione
lunch das Mittagessen le déjeuner il pranzo
dinner das Abendessen le dîner la cena
MENU DECODER
baked gebacken cuit au four al forno
beans Bohnen des haricots fagioli
beef Rindfleisch boeuf manzo
boiled gekocht bouilli bollito
cheese Käse fromage formaggio
chicken Hendle/Hahn/Huhn poulet pollo
chocolate Schokolade chocolat cioccolato
cream Schlag cream crema
egg ei oeuf uovo
fish Fisch poisson pesce
garlic Knoblauch ail aglio
grilled vom Grill grillé alla griglia
ham Schinken/Speck jambon prosciutto
ice cream Eis glace gelato
lamb Lamm agneau agnello
meat Fleisch viande carne
milk milch lait latte
pepper Pfeffer poivre pepe
poached pochiert poché in camicia
pork Schwein porc carne di miale
potato Kartoffel/Erdäpfel pommes de terre patate
red/white wine Rot-/Weisswein vin rouge/blanc vino rosso/blanco
roasted gebraten rôti arrosto
salad Salat salade insalata
salt Salz sal sale
sausage Wurst saucisse salsiccia
seafood Meeresfrüchte fruits de mer frutti di mare
vegetables Gemüse légumes contorni
water Wasser l’eau acqua
286
285-286_EW_Switzerland.indd 286 29/11/2018 13:08
EW Phrasebook template v1 – 29th August 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Gothic Pro
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Aquatis - BOAS GESTION SA: 34-5t, 35ca.
AWL Images: Jon Arnold 125tl; Jean-Francois
The publisher would like to thank the following for their Hagenmuller 60-1; Christian Kober 208cr, 209; Doug
kind permission to reproduce their photographs: Pearson 216cb.
Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; Bern Welcome: 70cra.
r-right; t-top
Cabaret Voltaire: Thus I Spoke- «Dying on Stage»,
123RF.com: Roman Babakin 29tr, 118-9b; Stefan Performance by Christodoulos Panayiotou & Jean
Ember 216cl; Janos Gaspar 22crb; jakobradlgruber Capeille 39br.
114cr; Chon Kit Leong 242bl; Narongsak Nagadhana
68cra; photogearch 242clb; Frederic Prochasson 54bl; Chur Tourismus: Andrea Bradrutt 249tr.
rudi1976 248-9t; ruslankphoto 46tr; sam74100 139cr;
Fedor Selivanov 246bl; theyok 158bl; Eleonora Crans-Montana Tourisme & Congrès: 107tr.
Travostino 220t.
Depositphotos Inc: pandionhiatus3 168t.
4Corners: Andreas Gerth 30bl; Gianni Krattli 19, 172;
Luca Da Ros 76-7b. Dorling Kindersley: Katarzyna Medrzakowie / Wojciech
Medrzakowie 117fbl, 252bl, 253tr.
akg-images: 164cl; Cameraphoto 69tl; André Held
189br. Dreamstime.com: Akulamatiau 54cla; Aldorado10
160bl; Alexirina27000 134tr, 139tl; Andreykr 120tl;
Alamy Stock Photo: age fotostock 67br, 123cla, 153tr; Leonid Andronov 182bl; Astra490 215tr; Baselxg 179tr;
Agencja Fotograficzna Caro / Bastian 255ca; AGF Srl Blitzkoenig 85ca; Eva Bocek 70cb, 91bc, 204-5b; Burben
147t; Stephen Allen 56bc; Leonid Andronov 67t; Anvalo 44-5t; Frédéric Cerez 139tr; Elena Duvernay 17bl, 110;
251tl; AR Photo 144tr; Architecture2000 184clb; Arco / J. Stefano Ember 215cao 79br; Janos Gaspar 255cla;
Pfeiffer 255t; ART Collection 57cra; Arterra Picture Gayane 134-5b; Thomas Jurkowski 117cra; Rachapol
Library 227tr; Udo Bernhart 36-7t; Eva Bocek 45br, Kitjanukit 20, 198; Mihai-bogdan Lazar 132-3t; Emanuele
212-3b, 266t; Tibor Bognar 18bl, 154; Dalibor Brlek Leoni 109ca; Lianem 216b; Denis Linine 85tr; Milosk50
10-1b; byvalet 75b; Gennaro Caninchello 45bl; Josse 190-1b; Moniphoto 144bl; Monner 54cra; Morseicinque
Christophel 58tl; Aiden Clarke 263b; Sorin Colac 72b; 222-3; Dmytro Nikitin 231t; Nuvisage 46-7b; Vichai
Chris Craggs 108tl; Peter Crighton 251br; Ian Dagnall Phububphapan 88clb, Ppy2010ha 36bl, Prasit Rodphan
22bl; dpa picture alliance 108-9b; Ros Drinkwater 59tr, Rosshelen 70bl, 124bl, 190tr; Sculpies 90-1t; Michal
192-3t; Reiner Elsen 74tr, 166bl; Stefan Ember 232b; Stipek 41ca, 105t; Susazoom 253tl; Swisshippo 47cl, 55cr,
EThamPhoto 49br; Archie Fisher 230bl; Francesco 242br, 243; Catalin Tibuleac 86; Tnuangthong 59crb;
Gavazzeni 264-5b; GFC Collection 24t, 40-1t, 55tl; Verryfe 91br; Victorflowerfly 213tr; Vogelsp 30-1t; Vaclav
Godong 117bc; Tim Graham 95br, 262tl; Granger Volrab 17t, 80; Xantana 26cla, 84-5b, 176t, 202-3t.
Historical Picture Archive 58bc; Michele and Tom Grimm
85cra; hemis.fr 114bl, 150bl, 171tr, / Giuglio Gil 24crb, / The Fondation Beyeler: Mark Niedermann 149tl.
Ludovic Maisant 119ca, / Lionel Montico 138cl, /
Bertrand Rieger 185; Gary Hill 43cl; The History Getty Images: AFP / Fabrice Coffrini 24cl, 51cb, 53cl,
Collection 179bc; imageBROKER 31b, 42br, 195b, 196clb, 68-9b, / Valeriano Di Domenico 33cla; AGF / Hermes
196b, 232tl, / Werner Dieterich 218bl, / Marina Horvat Images 247t; Ascent Xmedia / Milo Zanecchia 2-3;
88bl, / Iris Kürschner 254-5b, / Meinrad Riedo 210t, / Bettmann 58cla, 59clb; cdbrphotography 50-1b; Corbis /
Harald Wenzel – Orf 250bl; INTERFOTO / Fine Arts VCG / Francis G. Mayer 68clb; Harold Cunningham 32-3t,
165cra; JBTravel 114crb, 141bl; Michael Jenner 267b; 69tr, 69cla; EyeEm / Marcus Fischer 26t; Fine Art Images /
JHeinimann 197br; Linda Kennard 142; Christian Kober Heritage Images 119t; Sean Gallup 31cl; Gamma-Rapho
259br; Christian Kober 1 90cr; Jitraporn Leeniva 225b; / Marc Deville 28tl; Historical 58clb; Hulton Deutsch
Arnaud Lesueur 114t; LOOK Die Bildagentur der 58-9t; Lightcapturing by Björn Abt 188-7t; Frank
Fotografen GmbH 41clb; MARKA / giulio andreini/ Lukasseck 8-9; March Of Time 57tl; Francesco Meroni 21,
exhibition of work by Sigmar Ploke at art 238; Martin Moos 187tr; Neumann 228-9; Mathieu Polak
museum,Kunsthaus,Zurich © The Estate of Sigmar Polke, 59bc; Prisma by Dukas 164-5b; robertharding / Julian
Cologne / DACS 2018 165tr, / giovanni mereghetti Elliott 4; Michele Tantussi / Accumulation: Searching for
212ca; Hilke Maunder 28cla; mauritius images GmbH Destination (2014-2016) by Chiharu Shiota, Art Basel
13cr, 103br, 123br, 197tl, 221cr, 258-9t, 265t, / Udo 2016 © DACS 2018 12-3b; Jean Bernard Vernier 57bl;
Bernhart 52-3t, / Walter Bibikow 35b, / Westend61 87crb; VCG Wilson 38b; Suphanat
enricocacciafotografie 219t; McPhoto / Protze 49c; Wongsanuphat 8cla; xenotar 18tl, 126; Lingxiao Xie 36br.
mediacolor’s 158crb; Melba Photo Agency 24cr; Hercules
Milas 16, 62; Peter Moulton 108cb; National Geographic Heididorf: Gaudenz Danuser 50tl.
Image Collection / Robbie Shone 88cra; Sérgio Nogueira
141br; Alexander Novikov 256-7b; George Oze 158t; iStockphoto.com: ake1150sb 94-5t; AleksandarGeorgiev
Panther Media GmbH 93t, 146b, 226tr; vichai 211br; alxpin 214bl; Leonid Andronov 176br; anouchka
phububphapan 98b, 158cr; PjrTravel 180b, 182clb; 78tr; antares71 137tr; AsianDream 215cra; assalve 55tr;
Prisma Archivo 56crb; Prisma by Dukas Presseagentur Tatyana Berkovich 37tc; bhidethescene 22t, 117br;
GmbH 10clb, 11cr, 48-9t, 92bl, 97br, 104b, 106t, 106bl, cdbrphotography 12clb, 28-9t; Dmitry Chulov 213cr;
150-1t, 151br, 152tl, 152-3b, 205tl, 226-7b, / dblight 117tr; Elenarts 40b; elettro24 130-1t, 145bl;
Sonderegger Christof 52bl; Olaf Protze 46tl; REUTERS fotoember 212clb, 233tr; fotoVoyager 22cr; Gatsi 178b;
42-3t; Paolo Romiti 117bl; RossHelen editorial 224tl; genekrebs 32b; Aleksandar Georgiev 6-7; Andreas Haas
Alistair Scott 55bl, 148-9b; Kumar Sriskandan 261tr; 257tr; Yuliia Hrozian 26-7t; Janoka82 100-1; Alexander
dave stamboulis 87br; Dominic Steinmann 91clb; Jung 96-7t; JurgaR 11t; LianeM 27tr; Denis Linine 160-1t;
Geoffrey Taunton 96bl; Erik Tham / template / variant / lucentius 99tl, 208cl; MatteoCozzi 137cr; merc67 11br;
friend / stranger by Tony Oursler at the modern art show Mor65 236, 253ca; OGphoto 51tr, 137crb; olli0815
“Art Basel 2016” 54cr; The Protected Art Archive 56t; 184crb; RomanBabakin 24bl, 73t, 206-7b; RossHelen
Glyn Thomas 168cra; Rosengart Museum, Lucerne / 43br; Rostislavv 66bl; Juergen Sack 55br; Oleh
TravelCollection / Inga Wandinger works by Picasso © Slobodeniuk 268-9; Michal Stipek 213ca; swisshippo
Succession Picasso/DACS, London 2018 206tr; 13br; syolacan 217; TheShihan 28-9ca; TomasSereda
travelstock44 8clb, 167t, 169br, 177cr; travelstock44.de / 254cra; Flavio Vallenari 57tr; ventdusud 33cb; Xantana
Juergen Held 161cl; Jorge Tutor 117ca; Universal Images 26cra; yanisapae 208br; zorazhuang 102t.
Group North America LLC 119cra, 184bl; Westend61
GmbH 8cl, 44bl, 121t, / Werner Dieterich 130bl; Peter Kunsthaus Zurich: 165cla.
Wey 89; Scott Wilson 170b; World History Archive 57br;
Juriaan Wossink 120bl; Patrizia Wyss 186bl, 258bl; Kunstmuseum Basel: Julian Salinas / La femme et
YesPhotographers 260-1b; Zoonar / kavram 138-9b. l’enfant (1922, r.) and Les deux figures (Nus sur fonds
287
287-288_EW_Switzerland.indd 287 29/11/2018 15:17
rouge) (1923) by Fernand Léger © ADAGP, Paris and
DACS, London 2018, L’automne (1948) by Henri Laurens,
© ADAGP, Paris and DACS, London 2018 38-9t, / Stone
Line (1977) by Richard Long © Richard Long. All Rights
Reserved, DACS 2018 39cra.
Main Contributers Caroline Bishop,
La Gruye ère Tourisme: 54cl.
Mike MacEacheran, Anthony Lambert, Craig Turp,
MICR: Alain Germond 122-3t. Teresa Fisher, Doug Sager, Adriana Czupryn,
Małgorzata Omilanowska, Ulrich Schwendimann
Musée du Fer et du Chemin de Fer: 148tl.
Senior Editor Ankita Awasthi Tröger
Museum der Kulturen Basel: Omar Lemke 180tl. Senior Designer Owen Bennett
Museum fur Kommunikation: Thijs Wolzak 76t. Project Editor Emma Grundy Haigh
Project Art Editors Dan Bailey,
Museum Tinguely: Daniel Spehr / Donation Micheline
and Claude Renard / Incitation á la Création (1981) by Vinita Venugopal, Hansa Babra, Ankita Sharma,
Jean Tinguely right and Donation Niki de Saint Phalle / Bharti Karakoti, Priyanka Thakur
Bosch No. 2 (1974) by Jean Tinguely back © ADAGP, Factchecker Doug Sager
Paris and DACS, London 2018 181t.
Editors Ruth Reisenberger, Rebecca Flynn,
Rex by Shutterstock: EPA / Martial Trezzini 48bl, / Peter Rachel Laidler, Lucy Sara-Kelly, Danielle Watt
Schneider 55cl; EPA-EFE / Anthony Anex 54br, / Patrick
Huerlimann 170tr; WestEnd61 235. Proofreader Ben Ffrancon Davies
Indexer Hilary Bird
Robert Harding Picture Library: Menno Boermans 13t;
Sonderegger Christof 26-7ca; Stuart Dee 244t; Christian Senior Picture Researcher Ellen Root
Kober 143cra; Roberto Moiola 34bl; Travelstock44 161br. Picture Research Ruchi Bansal,
Schweizer Kindermuseum: Steve Jaeckle 191tr. Sophie Basilevitch, Sumita Khatwani,
Deepak Negi, Susie Peachey, Harriet Whitaker
Swiss National Museum, Zurich / Schweizerisches
Nationalmuseum: 162cra, 162bl, 163tc, 163tr, AURA / Illustrators Michał Burkiewicz, Paweł Marczak
Emanuel Ammon 163cra, 165cb, / Gabriel Ammon Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris
162-3b. Cartography Subhashree Bharati, Simonetta
unterirdisch überleben: Andrea Huwyler-Bachmann Giori, Magdalena Polak, Olaf Rodowald
53br. Jacket Designers Simon Thomson,
Front flap: Azeem Siddiqui
Alamy Stock Photo: Archie Fisher bl; Jitraporn Leeniva t; Jacket Picture Research Susie Peachey
George Oze cla; Depositphotos Inc: pandionhiatus3 c;
Dreamstime.com: Victorflowerfly br; iStockphoto.com: Senior DTP Designer Jason Little
merc67 cra. DTP Designer Tanveer Zaidi
Cover images: Senior Producer Igrain Roberts
Front and spine: Dreamstime.com: Sorin Colac. Managing Editor Hollie Teague
Back: Alamy Stock Photo: Hercules Milas cla;
Dreamstime.com: Sorin Colac bc; Xantana c; Getty Art Director Maxine Pedliham
Images: Frank Lukasseck tr. Publishing Director Georgina Dee
For further information see: www.dkimages.com
First edition 2005
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
1450 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10018
The information in this Copyright © 2005, 2019 Dorling Kindersley Limited
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. A Penguin Random House Company
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book 19 20 21 22 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to All rights reserved.
press. Some details, however, such as telephone No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in
numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form,
arrangements and travel information, are liable to or by any means (electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission
for any consequences arising from the use of this of the copyright owner.
book, nor for any material on third party websites, A CIP catalog record for this book
and cannot guarantee that any website address is available from the British Library.
in this book will be a suitable source of travel A catalog record for this book is available
information. We value the views and suggestions from the Library of Congress.
of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, ISSN: 1542 1554
DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, ISBN: 978 0 2413 5840 5
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: Printed and bound in China.
[email protected]
www.dk.com
288
287-288_EW_Switzerland.indd 288 29/11/2018 15:17
EW Acknowledgements v1.2– 5th Nov 2018
Fonts: Aptifer Sans LT Pro, Posterama Text, Soho
Gothic Pro