(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Switzerland

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21 established by the Romans The village of Gstaad,
as Octo dorus in about 15 BC.
with its traditional
Gstaad Excavations have unearthed a Swiss architecture
com plex of Roman buildings,
! C5 £ @ n Haus des
Gastes; www.gstaad.ch among them baths, an amphi­
theatre and a temple dedi­ St Bernard dogs that were
Given it is one of Switzerland’s cated to Minerva. once kept at the Grand
most famous resorts, Gstaad The town is dominated by St Bernard Pass monastery
is a surprisingly small village, the Tour de la Bâtiaz, a 13th­ and who were trained by
its size out of proportion to its century fortress set on a pro­ monks to sniff out travellers
international prestige. At the montory. In Martigny’s old lost in snow or aval anches.
junction of four valleys, it con­ district are the 15th­century The museum also keeps a
nects into a larger regional ski Maison Supersaxo and the number of dogs on site, which
pass net work, including Chapelle Notre­Dame­de­ you are allowed to pet at
the Diablerets Glacier. Compassion, built in the certain times of day.
In summer Gstaad attracts 1620s, both worth a visit.
numerous visitors who come Martigny’s main attraction Fondation Pierre
to enjoy rock climbing, hiking, is the Fondation Pierre Gianadda
cycling and rafting on the Gianadda, a museum built " ⌂ 59 Rue du Forum
turbulent waters of the Saane. on the ruins of a Gallo­Roman # Jun–Nov: 9am–7pm daily;
By remaining faithful to trad­ temple. Among its several Dec–May: 10am–6pm daily
itional architecture, the town collections, the Musée ∑ gianadda.ch
has maintained its romantic Archéologique Gallo­Romain
character. Its main street, the contains statues and artifacts Barryland
Promenade, is lined with uncov ered during excavations. " ⌂ Route du Levant 34
shops, cafés and galleries. The Musée de l’Auto, in the # 10am–6pm daily
base ment, show cases vintage ∑ barryland.ch
cars, including Swiss­made
22 models. A small number of
paintings, by Cézanne, Van
Martigny Gogh and Toulouse­Lautrec 23
! B5 £ @ n 6 Ave de la and other artists, are shown in Verbier
Gare; www.martigny.com the Salle Franck, while impor­ ! C5 @ n Place Centrale;
tant tem porary exhibitions www.verbier.ch
Located where the Dranse are staged in the main gallery.
and Rhône rivers meet, at the Nearby is the popular Verbier is Switzerland’s most
point where the latter curves Barryland, a “living museum” extensive ski area, with terrain
to the north, Martigny was dedicated to the famous to suit every skier, from gentle
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(8,100 ft), the St Bernard Pass is divided into two sections.
is the oldest of all Alpine pass Nieder Simmental, the lower
Did You Know? routes, in use since 800 BC. section, runs from the town of
Spiez – where the River Simme
The pass is named after
Bernard of Menthon, Bishop enters the Thunersee (Lake
The International
Alphorn Festival is of Aosta, who built a hospice Thun) – westwards to Boltigen.
held in July in Nendaz, for travellers here in 1049. It Here the valley veers to the
near Verbier. has been inhabited by monks south, becoming Obere
ever since. It welcomes travel­ Simmental, the upper section.
lers all year round – access in This part stretches up a little
winter is by skis or snowshoes. above the valley to the holiday
There is also an interesting resort and spa town of Lenk,
slopes to some of the most mus eum that documents the near the source of the Simme.
chal leng ing pistes. That, plus history of the pass. Several charming villages lie
its beautiful location, cli mate, The St Bernard Pass is closed along the Simmental, among
cosmopolitan atmo sphere to vehicles all winter, with snow them Erlenbach, the starting
and vibrant nightlife, have common in June. However, the point for whitewater rafting
made it a celebrity fav ourite. St Bernard Tunnel provides a down the Simme.
At an altitude of 1,500 m year­round route between
(4,921 ft), the resort lies on a Switzerland and Italy.
wide plateau with fine views of INSIDER TIP
peaks in Switzerland, Italy and The Simmental
France. Just below Verbier lies 25 Cycle Route
the Val de Bagnes, a pictur­ Head out on this enjoy-
esque valley and one of the The Simmental able flat-terrain bike
country’s best kept secrets. ! C4 £ @ n Rawilstrasse route, which winds its
Verbier’s ski pass area covers 3, Lenk; www.lenk- way over tarmacked
more than 400 km (248 miles) simmental.ch and natural paths from
of on­ and off­piste runs. The Lenk to Erlenback (lenk-
highest point is Mont Fort, at The Simmental, the beautiful simmental.ch).
3,330 m (10,925 ft). From there long valley of the River Simme,
are far­reaching views as far
as Mont Blanc. In summer,
there are two golf courses
and good hiking trails.
Xtreme Verbier is a winter
event in which skiers and snow ­
boarders swoop down steep
mountain faces studded with
cliffs. In summer the town
hosts the Verbier Festival, an
international festival of clas­
sical music with free work­
shops. August sees the world’s
best horse riders compete in a
presti gious dressage event.

24
Grand St Bernard Pass
! B6 @ n Grand-St-
Bernard; www.st-
bernard.ch
Situated on the border with
Italy at an altitude of 2,469 m


The 17th-century
church within the Grand
St Bernard Pass hospice
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26 Four castles stand guard over the town
St-Pierre-de-Clages of Sion: Valère, Tourbillon, Majorie and
Montorge, each dating back to the 13th
! B5 @ £ century or earlier.
The tiny medieval village of
St-Pierre-de-Clages is set on
the southern, vineyard- sur rounding Rhône valley is on an invisible linguistic border
covered slopes of the Rhône renowned for its apricots and separating French speakers
EXPERIENCE Mittelland, Bernese Oberland and Valais
valley. Apart from an annual indiginous Fendant vineyards. from their German compa-
book festival and some well- The Château de Tourbillon triots. The town enjoys a won-
stocked antiquarian book- itself is now in ruins, but many derfully sunny climate and is
shops in the village, its main of the ramparts remain. The sur rounded by vine yards. It
attraction is a beautiful chapel, with ribbed vaulting contains several historic
Romanesque church with an and carved capitals, contains buildings, including a 16th-
octagonal bell tower. Dating medieval wall paintings. The century castle, the Château
from the late 11th to the early nearby Château de Valère is a des Vidomnes. The Baroque
12th century, it was originally 12th-century fortified church town hall contains a small
part of a Benedictine priory. with 15th-century murals and museum of pewter objects.
The rib-vaulted interior is the world’s oldest working The local winemaking
almost entirely devoid of organ, dating from 1430. tradition is documented by
decoration, and this pleasing the Wine Museum Sierre,
austerity is accentuated by Château de Tourbillon which has fascinating
the unadorned stonework of § 027 606 47 45 # Mid-Mar– collections displayed in two
the walls and columns. The Apr & Oct–mid-Nov: 11am– places. One part occupies a
stained-glass dates from 1948. 5pm daily; May–Sep: 10am– wing of the 16th-century
6pm daily Château de Villa in Sierre,
the other the 16th-century
27 Château de Valère Zumofenhaus in Salgesch
§ 027 606 47 15 # Jun–Sep:
(Salquenen in French), a vil-
Sion 10am–6pm daily; Oct–May: lage east of Sierre. The scenic
10am–5pm Tue–Sun 6-km (4-mile) Sentier Viticole,
! C5 @ £ n Place de la or wine route, wends through
Planta; www.siontour
isme.ch villages and vineyards, with a
28
The capital of the canton of
Valais sits along the Rhône, Sierre HIDDEN GEM
at the foot of two hills. Four ! C5 £ @ n 10 Place Lac St Léonard
castles stand guard over de la Gare; www. Between Sion and
the town of Sion: Valère, sierretourisme.ch Sierre lies Europe’s
Tourbillon, Majorie and largest underground
Montorge, each Located in the Rhône lake, the Lac St Léonard
dating back to the valley, Sierre (Siders (www.lac-souterrain.
13th century or in German) lies com). You can visit it
earlier. The mid-March to November
– in summer, concerts
are staged on the water.























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The Lac des Dix framed
by alpine peaks and the
Grande Dixence dam

number of wine-tasting stops 11,962 ft); and to the south dam at VerticAlp Emosson on
along the way. The route con- climbs Mont Blanc de Cheilon the Swiss border, involving
nects the museum’s two parts. (3,870m/12,697 ft) and Pigne three types of funicular.
d’Arolla (3,796m/12,454 ft). Hikers can walk all the way
Wine Museum Sierre A cable car runs from the foot up to the permanent ice of
" ⌂ Château de Villa, 6 Rue of the dam, where there is a Trient Glacier and spend the
Ste-Catherine # Mar–Nov: restaurant, up to the lake. night in one of the Swiss
2–6pm Wed–Fri, 11am–6pm From here you can hike to the Alpine Club’s mountain huts
Sat & Sun ∑ museeduvin- Cabane des Dix, a mountain dotted across the terrain.
valais.ch refuge, walk around the lake Visitors can learn about
or take the six-hour hike to the animals that live – or
the small resort of Arolla. used to live – in the Alps
29 Val d’Hérémence joins the at the Zoo des Marécottes.
Wolves, ibex and black bears
Val d’Hérens (p106) at the
Barrage de la Grande small town of Héré mence. are all here, and there’s also
Dixence The town is a good base for the added attrac tion of a
skiing on the eastern slopes natural alpine swim ming pool.
! C6 @ Late Jun–mid-Oct of Mont Rouge, and also for
∑ grande-dixence.ch
hiking in the mountains. VerticAlp Emosson
The world’s highest gravity ⌂ Route du Châtelard 6,
dam and the greatest feat Le Châtelard # Mid-May–
of modern engineering in 30 Nov: 9am–5pm daily
Switzerland, this extraordi- ∑ verticalp-emosson.ch
nary hydro electric dam towers Trient Valley
285 m (935 ft) high, across the ! B6 £ @ n Rue de la Poste Zoo des Marécottes
River Dixence, at the head of 3, Martigny; www.vallee " ⌂ Les Marécottes Mon &
the Val d’Hérémence. dutrient-vallorcine.com Tue 10am–5pm, Wed–Sun
The Lac des Dix, the stretch 10am–7pm ∑ zoo-alpin.ch
of water that fills the valley Linking Martigny to Chamonix
above the dam, is surrounded in France over the narrow
by mountains. Rising to the Forclaz Pass, Trient is an
west is Rosa blanche (3,336 m/ almost forgotten valley of Did You Know?
10,945 ft); to the east soars tranquillity and pastoral life.
Les Aiguilles Rouges (3,646 m/ A rack-railway train, the “Mont One of the funi culars
Blanc Express”, carries pas- up the Trient Valley
sengers along the edge of to Emosson climbs
the valley, offering views car at an incline of
Sion, capital of the French- drivers will never see on the 87 per cent.
speaking Valais, dramatically road. Most spectacular is the
set amid rocky outcrops journey up to the lake and
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EXPERIENCE Mittelland, Bernese Oberland and Valais









The unspoilt Val d’Anniviers,
a side valley in the Valais,
popular with hikers

31 of rock formations known INSIDER TIP
as the Pyramides d’Euseigne.
Val d’Hérens Visi ble from the valley road, Hike the Valais
these sawtoothed outcrops of Bisses
! C5 @ n 13 Rue rock jut out of the hillside like
Principale, Euseigne; The bisses are irrigation
www.valdherens.ch fangs. They were sanded into channels that run
shape during the Ice Age by throughout the Valais.
Stretching southeast from the ero sive action of wind, rain Some of them have been
Sion, the tranquil Val d’Hérens and ice. Each point is capped there for cen turies, and
(Eringertal in German) reaches by a rock, which protected the many are now restored
into the Pennine Alps. This softer rock beneath from and make excellent
pretty valley has enchanting ero sion, so producing these hiking paths. Some are
scenery and is home to pretty jag ged formations. vertigo-inducing, set
vil lages with wooden chalets. The village of Evolène, 15 km along a cliff edge; others
Traditions are kept alive here, (9 miles) south of the village are more gentle.
making it seem a world away of Euseigne, is a good base
from modern life. for hiking. At the head of the
A striking geological feature valley, amid lush Arolla pine glaciers of Zinal to the south.
of the Val d’Hérens is a cluster forests and colourful flowery Surrounded by the high peaks
meadows, is the hamlet of Les of the Pennine Alps and cut by
Haudères, where there is a the River La Navisence, the
Geology and Glacier Centre valley is dotted with villages
with an interesting museum. which offer visitors skiing in
Beyond this small outpost, the the winter, and hiking and
Val d’Hérens extends into cycling in the summer.
tree-lined Val d’Arolla. At the Near the entrance to the
end of the road sits the small val ley perches the unspoilt
resort of Arolla. moun tain village of Vercorin.
From Soussillon you can
journey to medieval Chandolin,
32 a village of quaint wooden
chalets and fantastic views.
Val d’Anniviers From Vissoie it is worth going
to sun-drenched Saint-Luc
! C5 @ ∑ valdanniviers.ch
at 1,650 m (5,413 ft) for a
A popular destination in the breathtaking view of the Val
The dramatic jagged summer for hikers, the rugged d’Anniviers. From there you
rocks that form the Val d’Anniviers begins across can proceed up to the top of
Pyramides d’Euseigne from Sierre and runs up to the Bella Tola (3,025 m/9,925 ft).
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Grimentz is a fascinating Switzerland and the second on a plateau north of the
village, full of traditional tall highest in the Alps after Mont Rhône valley, with a clear view
wooden chalets built on the Blanc: the Dufourspitze, which of the Valais Alps to the south.
underlying bedrock. From peaks at 4,634 m (15,203 ft). In the late 19th century, as the
here, hiking trails lead up Because of its shape, Monte fashion for mountain holidays
to the Moiry dam and the Rosa is easier to climb than grew, Crans and Montana
Glacier de Moiry. The highest the Matterhorn. ex panded and merged into
village in the valley is Zinal at Situated on its Italian side, one legal entity.
1,670 m (5,479 ft). This resort near the summit at 4,556 m Crans-Montana can be
is a ski centre in winter and a (14,947 ft), is the Capanna reached by road from Sion,
good base for summer hiking. Regina Margherita, the and from Sierre either by a
From Zinal guides can be highest mountain shelter road that winds up through
hired for the climb to the in Europe, built in 1893. The vineyards and pasture, or
summit of the Zinal-Rothorn Monte Rosa massif is encircled by funicular. This very sunny
(4,221 m/13,848 ft), the by the Gornergletscher, a vast resort has a network of cable
Pyramide des Besso, Oberes glacier and the second-largest cars and ski lifts, accessing over
Gabelhorn and Pointe de glacial system in the Alps; 140 km (87 miles) of pistes and
Zinal. There are also many stretching lower down are the glacier of Plaine Morte, a
easier peaks and highly the usually deserted slopes of pop ular destination for cross-
scenic rambling routes. Stockhorn and Gornergrat. country skiing. The resort is
best known, however, for
high-altitude golf. Two nine-
33 34 hole courses, plus the legend-
ary Swiss Masters links, with
Monte Rosa Crans-Montana views over the Rhône Valley,
make Crans-Montana
! C6 ! B5/C5 @ ∑ crans-
montana.ch Switzerland’s premier golf
The Monte Rosa massif spans centre. And at this altitude,
Swiss and Italian territory, and The fashionable ski and golf balls fly an incredible 20 per
possesses the highest peak in resort of Crans-Montana lies cent further than at sea level.




EAT

La Brentaz
A family-friendly spot
in the centre of town
serving hearty comfort
food, with plenty of
fresh fish on the menus.
! C5 ⌂ Place Centrale 2,
Vercorin § 027 455 17 01
¢ Mon, Tue

L’Étable du Marais
Traditional Swiss food
and an excellent wine
list, served in a lovingly
restored barn. The rösti
Marais is a specialty.
! C5 ⌂ 3961 Grimentz,
Valais § 027 476 20 18

The winding road up to
the popular ski resort of
Crans-Montana
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A roadside rest stop amid
the hills around Saas-Fee
in springtime



36
EXPERIENCE Mittelland, Bernese Oberland and Valais
Simplon Pass
! D5 n Simplon Dorf;
www.simplon.ch
The Simplon Pass, at 2,005 m
(6,580 ft), is one of the most
important routes between
western and southern Europe.
Connecting Switzerland and
n skiing is possible on the Italy, it also marks the border
between the Pennine and
Feegletscher (Fairy Glacier)
Saas-Fee in the Mischabel massif; it Lepontine Alps. The route has
is the highest massif to lie been in use since the Stone
! D5 @ n Obere
Dorfstrasse 2; www. entirely in Switzerland. Age, and so has played an
saas-fee.ch In summer, there is a range essential role in trade since
of hiking trails, from easy the Middle Ages.
A village dating back to the strolls to demanding treks, The strategic importance
13th century, Saas-Fee, in the that lead into the surroun ding of the pass was recognized by
Pennine Alps, has been a resort peaks or to other sites, such as Napoleon, on whose orders a
since the early 19th century. It Mattmarksee, an artificial lake. new road was built here in
is the main town in the Saas A cable car also runs up to the 1800–06. This road is about
Valley, through which flows rocky out crop of Felskinn 64 km (40 miles) long and runs
the River Saaser Vispa. It has (3,000 m/9,800 ft). From here, from Brig, over the pass and
a magnificent setting at the the Alpine Metro makes the through the village of Simplon,
foot of the Dom (4,545 m/ jour ney up to Mittelallalin, down to the Italian town of
14,911 ft) and is sur roun ded where you can savour the Domodossola. Napoleon’s
by other tall peaks. panorama from Allalin (041 27 road is passable virtually all
The car-free resort has many 957 17 71), the highest revolving year round. A railway tunnel
traditional wooden chalets, restau rant in the world at a under the pass was built in
which are built on high walls. height of 3,500 m (11,480 ft). 1906, as an alternative crossing.
Saas-Fee, more than many
resorts in the area, cherishes
its traditional rural culture,
and several local tradi tions are
enacted for visitors. These
include proces sions marking
Corpus Christi, cow fights and
yodelling contests, folk festi-
vals cele brating Swiss National
Day, and the late-spring festival
Alpaufzug, which marks the
time when cows are taken
up to their summer pastures.
The Saaser Museum, with a
recon struction of a typical
local house, and a large col-
lection of beautifully preser-
ved crafts and costumes, is
devoted to regional folk tradi-
tions and culture.
All around the village, in The imposing Stockalper
winter or in summer, are vistas Palace in Brig, and its
of mam moth glaciers and attractive arcaded
steep crevasses. Year-round courtyard (inset)
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37 CUSTOMS OF THE LÖTSCHENTAL
Brig
The Lötschental is a remote valley just east of Leukerbad.
! D5 £ n Bahnhofplatz 1; For centuries the valley’s inhabitants were isolated from
www.brig-simplon.ch the outside world during winter, and they have retained
many ancient rituals, customs
Built over a Roman settle­ and tra ditions. One such custom
ment, Brig is the major town is Tschäggättä, a festival that
in the Upper Valais. It lies at lasts from Candlemas until
the crossroads of the main Shrovetide. Young bachelors
al pine routes leading over the don sheepskin coats, with
Simplon, Furka, Grimsel and the fleece on the outside
Nufenen passes and through and cowbells strap ped to
the Lötschberg Tunnel. their waists, and wear
Located on the Rhône, the gro tesque masks (left).
bridges that span the river at Masked proces sions are
this spot give the town its held during the last
name. During the 17th cen­ week of the carnival.
tury, the trade route to Italy,
leading over the Simplon
Pass, was controlled by the towers crowned by cupolas Leukerbad (Loèche­les­Bains
Stockalper family of mer chants. Caspar, Melchior and in French) is one of the
Kaspar Jodok Stockalper von Balthazar. The palace has an highest spa resorts in Europe.
Thurm gave Brig its finest arcaded courtyard and a The thera peutic prop erties
monument, a Renaissance­ chapel dedicated to the Three of its hot springs, which are
Baroque palace built between Kings, with an ornate silver rich in calcium, sulphur and
1658 and 1678. The building is altarpiece made by Samuel gypsum, have been appre­
set with three tall square Hornung of Augsburg. ciated since Roman times.
Leukerbad has several
pub lic spa complexes, with
All around the 38 pools and many other facilities,
village, in winter Leukerbad including treatments and
rehab ilitation programmes.
or in summer, are Above the resort, and
vistas of mammoth ! C5 @ n Rathausstrasse acces sible by cable car, lies
8; www.leukerbad.ch
glaciers and steep the breathtaking Gemmi Pass,
crevasses. Lying at the head of the found on the hiking trail to
Kandersteg (p99) and the
Dala valley, at an altitude
of 1,400 m (4,595 ft), Bernese Oberland.






























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Dusk setting over Geneva’s Brunswick monument and fountain




























GENEVA



The capital of Switzerland’s westernmost canton,
with which it shares its name, Geneva nestles
against the shores of Lake Geneva (Lac Léman),
where the Rhône and the Arve divide. It was
settled by the Celtic Helvetii around 450 BC, who
were attracted by the fertile land and defensive
position. The same appealed to the Romans,
who swooped in to secure the city in 121 BC.
Fought over for centuries by dif erent factions,
the city gained its independence in 1536. By
that point, the city of Geneva was estab lished
as a prosperous centre of trade, and on its way
to becoming a stronghold of the Reformation.
Known as the Protestant Rome, the city attracted
Protestant refugees from across Europe. These
newcomers both increased the city’s wealth and
boosted its cosmopolitan character. Artists and
philoso phers soon followed, adding to the city’s
culture. The city’s reputation as a place of media­
tion and civility was cemented in 1864, when the
International Red Cross was founded by a group of
Genevois. In the century that followed, the League
of Nations and later the United Nations made their
home here. Now home to more than 200 inter­
national organizations, including CERN, one of the
world’s most advanced labora tories, it remains a
centre of international cooperation.
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RUE DE MONTBRILLANT RUE DE MONTBRILLANT R U E D U P R I E U R É R U E DE BÂL E R. JEAN-CHARL E S AMAT Q U A I W Q U A I W A L D - W I L S O N

R. JEAN-CHARL E S AMAT
R U E DE BÂL E
R U E D U P R I E U R É
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R U E D ES PAQ UI S RU E D ES PAQ U IS
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R UE DU M Ô L E
R. DE L'ANCIEN-PORT
R. PH. PLANTAMOUR
R. PH. PLANTAMOUR
RU E J E AN -JAQUE T A L D - W I L S O N
GENEVA GENEVA R U E D E L A N A V I G A T I O N R. DE L'ANCIEN-PORT
R U E D E L A N A V I G A T I O N
Temple des
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RUE DE ZURICH R
Q U A I DU M ON T- B L AN C
Q U A I DU M ON T- B L AN C
R UE D E
RUE DE ZURICH RUE DE ZURICH
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R. DE NEUCHATEL
R UE DE MONTBRILLANT
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RU E D E M ONT H OU X
RU E D E M ONT H OU X
R U E D U LY O N PL. DE MONTBRILLANT PL. DE MONTBRILLANT Cornavin PLACE DE CORNAVIN PRADIER R. DE NEUCHATEL RUE SISMONDI R ED- V INC E N T du Léman du Léman
Notre-Dame ACE DE CORNAVIN
Gare de
Gare de
Cornavin
R UE D O C T EUR- A LF
RUE SISMONDI
R U E D E
RUE P H. PLANTAMOUR
RUE P H. PLANTAMOUR
R U E D E L A S E R V E T T E
SQUARE
R U E D E L A S E R V E T T E
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R U E D E S A L P E S
SQUARE S A L P E S
Notre-Dame
RUE PÉCOLAT
RUE PÉCOLAT
Q U AI D U MO N T-BL AN C
RUE JEAN-DASSIER
Q U AI D U MO N T-BL AN C
RUE A. FABR
RUE A. FABRII
RUE DE MALATREX
RUE DE MALATREX
R. DU MONT-BLANC
Mausolée
RUE BONIVARD
PL. DES VINGT
PL. DES VINGT
Brunswick
DEUX-CANTONS
DEUX-CANTONS
BD. JAMES - FAZY
BD. JAMES - FAZY
RUE DE L'ENCYCLOPÉDIE
RUE DE L'ENCYCLOPÉDIE R UE VOLTA IR E Parc RUE DES TERREAUX-DU-TEMPLE R. DE CORN AVIN R. DE CHANTEPOULET R. DU MONT-BLANC de Genève Jet d’Eau Jet d’Eau Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R Parc Parc
R UE VO LTA IR E
RUE DES TERREAUX-DU-TEMPLE
Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R
RUE DU CENDRIER
RUE DU CENDRIER
RUE ROUSSEAU UE KLÉBERG
RUE KLÉBERG
Rade
Rade
R. DE CORN AVIN R. DE CHANTEPOULET R. DU MONT-BLANC
PLACE DES
PLACE DES
RUE ROUSSEAU
R
de Genève
BERGUES
BERGUES
R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S
R. DES ETUVES
R. DES ETUVES
La Grange
Temple de
R U E D E S A I N T - J E A N
QUAI DE S B E RG UES
R U E D E S A I N T - J E A N Parc RUE DU TEMPLE Temple de QUAI DE S B E RG UES Pont des Pont des Pont du Pont du R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S RUE MERLE D’AUBIGNÉ La Grange
Saint-Gervais
Saint-Gervais
Mont-Blanc
Mont-Blanc
Bergues
Bergues
Saint-Jean
Saint-Jean
PLACE DE
PLACE DE
RUE DU TEMPLE
QUAI TURRETTINI ST.GERVAIS ST.GERVAIS Île Île RUE MERLE D’AUBIGNÉ F A V R E
QUAI TURRETTINI
A V E N U E W I L L I A M -
Q U A I D U S E U J E T Pont de la Pont de la Rousseau Rousseau
Q U A I D U S E U J E T
Machine
Machine
Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R
A V E N U E W I L L I A M - F A V R E
Pont de la Pont de la Rhône Rhône Ponts Ponts
de l’Île
de l’Île
RUE DE MONTCHOISY
R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S
Coulouvrenièree
Coulouvrenièr
PLACE PLACE RUE DU SIMPLON RUE DU SIMPLON
PLACE
DE L’ÎLE DE L’ÎLE PLACE Q U A I D U PROMENADE DU LAC RUE DE MONTCHOISY
PLACE PLACE DU RHONE DU RHONE G É N . G U I S A N Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R RUE DU LAC RUE DU LAC R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S
PROMENADE DU LAC
QUAI DE LA POSTE BEL-AIR BEL-AIR PLACE PLACE Jardin Anglais
QUAI DE LA POSTE
Q U A I D U G É N . G U I S A N
Jardin Anglais
DE LA
DE LA
R U E D E M O N T C H O I S Y
DU
PLACE DE PLACE DE FUSTERIE FUSTERIE R U E D U R H Ô N E PLACE PLACE R. DES PIERRES-DU-NIT ON R U E D E S V O L L A N D E S
DU
R U E D U R H Ô N E
PORT
R U E D E L A COULOUVRE N I ÈR E B RUE DU STAND HOLLANDE HOLLANDE R. DE LA CONFEDERATION PLACE DU PLACE DU PORT QUAI DU GÉNÉRAL-GUISAN R. DE LA SCIE R U E M U Z Y R U E M U Z Y
RU E DU NA NT
R. DES PIERRES-DU-NIT ON
R. DE LA CONFEDERATION
R U E D U S T A N D
R U E D U S T A N D RUE JEAN-PETITOT R U E F R U E F BÉMONT BÉMONT R. DU MARCHÉ MOLARD MOLARD PLACE DE LONGEMALLE LONGEMALLE R U E D U R H Ô N E R U E D E M O N T C H O I S Y RU E DU
QUAI DU GÉNÉRAL-GUISAN
RUE JEAN-PETITOT
PLACE
PLACE
PLACE DE R U E D U R H Ô N E
R. DU MARCHÉ
R. DE LA SCIE
R U E D E S V O L L A N D E S
PLACE DE LA PLACE DE LA RUE DE LA RÔTISSERIE RUE DU PORT RUE DU PRINCE RUE DU PORT RUE DU PRINCE R U E D U - 3 1 D É C E M B R E
SYNAGOGUE
R. DE LA SYNAGOGUE RUE DE L'ARQUEBUSE RUE DU STAND RU E D E L A CO R R ATE RI E RU E D E L A CO R R ATE RI E RUE D E LA CROIX-D’OR R. DE LA TOUR- MAÎTRESSE R. DE LA TOUR- MAÎTRESSE R U E D E L A M A I R
R UE D E H E S
RUE PIERRE FATIO RUE F. VERSONNEX
RUE DE LA CITÉ
RUE DE LA CITÉ
RUE D’ITALIE
BLVD GEORG
RUE DE LA RÔTISSERIE
Musée Barbier-
RUE D E LA CROIX-D’OR
RUE MAUNOIR RUE MAUNOIR R O N T E N E X
Mueller
Mueller
PLACE
RUE MAUNOIR RUE MAU
Cimetière des RU E D ES ROI S R. DE LA SYNAGOGUE ES FAVON BOVY LYSBERG GRAND-RUE Musée Barbier- Église de Église de RUE PIERRE FATIO RUE F. VERSONNEX DES
Cimetière des
R UE D E H E SS E R A N Ç O
DES
R O U T E D E F
Rois RUE DU DIORAMA RUE DU DIORAMA SYNAGOGUE S E R A N Ç O I S D I D A Y la Madeleine RUE R U E D E R I V E RUE D’ITALIE EAUX-VIVES EAUX-VIVES RUE DU NA N T RUE DU NA N T NOIR R O U T E D E F R O N T E N E X
GRAND-RUE
R U E D U - 3 1 D É C E M B R E
R U E D E L A M A I R I E
R U E D E R I V E
RU E D ES RO
Maison
Maison la Madeleine DU VIEUX- COLLÈGE ROND- ROND- BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE AVE DE FRONTENEX A V E N U E P I C T E T - D E -
R.-DU GÉNÉRA
R U E D E L A COULOUVRE N I ÈR E LVD GEORGES FAVON
AVE DE FRONTENEX
POINT
POINT
RUE DES
RUE DES
RUE BOVY LYSBERG I S D I D A Y Tavel Tavel DERIVE DERIVE
GRANGES
GRANGES
PLACE A V E N U E P I C T
RUE DE L'ARQUEBUSE
RUE DES BAINS E DES BAINS
BOULEVARD DE SAINT-GEORGES
BOULEVARD DE SAINT-GEORGES PLACE DU PLACE DU RUE L-DUFOUR Église St- Église St- R. DE LA FON TAINE R. DE LA FON TAINE CAPREFOUR CAPREFOUR RUE DE LA CHAPELLE R U E D E L A FL ÉCH E RUE DE LA CHAPELLE R U E D E L A
RUE DU VIEUX- COLLÈGE
BD. DU THÉATRE
BD. DU THÉATRE
CIRQUE
CIRQUE
Rois I S
RUE DES BAINS E DES BAINS
R. DU VILLAGE-SUISSE R U E D U V I E U X - B I L L A R D Église du Église du PLACE DE PLACE DE E L A C ROI X-RO UG E R. DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE Cathédrale RUE F. HODL ER RUE F. HODL ER RUE DES GLACIS-DE-RIVE RUE DE LA TERRASSIÈRE FL ÉCH E
R. DU VILLAGE-SUISSE
DE RIVE
R.-DU GÉNÉRAL-DUFOUR
DE RIVE
RUE DE VILLEREUSE
Germain
Germain
RUE
Cathédrale
R UE D
RUE DES SAVOISES Sacré-Coeur
Sacré-Coeur
St-Pierre
St-Pierre
RUE DES SAVOISES
NEUVE
NEUVE
A V E N U E D U M A I L
A V E N U E D U M A I L
RUE DU MIDI
RUE DU MIDI
RUE DES GLACIS-DE-RIVE DE LA TERRASSIÈRE
BLVD GEORGES-FAVON U CO NS E IL- GÉ N ÉR AL
R UE D U CO NS E IL- GÉ N ÉR AL
B O U L E V A R D J A Q U E S D A L C R O Z E
Place du
R. DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE
R U E D U V I E U X - B I L L A R D
Place du
Around Genev
Quartier
Quartier
Geneva
Geneva
Bourg-de-Four
R UE D E L A C ROI X-RO UG E
des Bains
des Bains
International Airportt
International Airpor
Parc des
RU
RU
RUE GOURGAS
Parc RUE GOURGAS RUE GOURGAS BLVD GEORGES-FAVON DUFOUR DUFOUR PROMENADE DES BASTIONS Parc des Bourg-de-Four RUE ADRIEN-LACHENAL RUE ADRIEN-LACHENAL RUE DE VILLEREUSE R O C H E M O N T Around Genevaa
R.-DU GÉNÉRAL-
Bastions
R.-DU GÉNÉRAL-
Bastions
Université
Paroisse
Paroisse
Gourgas Gourgas Centre d’Art R UE D Université de Genève de l'Oratoire PLACE L E V A R D J A Q U E S D A L C R O Z E et d’Histoire R U E C . STU RM ROUTE DE MALAGNOU Red Cross and Palais des Palais des Lake Genevava
Musée d’Art
de Genève
Musée d’Art
International
de l'Oratoire
International
Parc RUE GOURGAS
et d’Histoire
Red Cross and
PROMENADE DES BASTIONS
Red Crescent Museum
Centre d’Art
Red Crescent Museum
Nations
Nations
BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE
Contemporain
Contemporain
Lake Gene
Église
RUE E. DUMONT
RUE E. DUMONT
ROUTE DE MALAG
Plainpalais
Russe
Russe
GUVENOT
GUVENOT NOU
PLACE
R U E C . STU RM
B O U
DES
DES
R. DES VIEUX GRENADIERS
R. DES VIEUX GRENADIERS
RU E D U SAI N T-LÉG ER
CASEMATES
RU E D E CAN D O LLE
Bodmer
Bodmer
ROND-
ROND-
R. BERGALONNE
R UE DU ST. VI CTO R S T R A N C H É ES
R. BERGALONNE Plainpalais POINT DE RU E D E CAN D O LLE COURS DES BASTIONS CASEMATES BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE RUE ÉMILIE GALLAND Église PLACE EMILE PLACE EMILE (Lac Léman) (Lac Léman) Foundation
POINT DE
B O U L E VA R D
B O U L E VA R D
Foundation
C A R L-VO GT
C A R L-VO GT
PLAINPALAIS PLAINPALAIS RU E D U SAI N T-LÉG ER RU E RU E ÉMI L IE G OUR D
RUE ÉMILIE GALLAND
RUE DES MARAÎCHERS
RUE DES MARAÎCHERS
MEG (Ethnographic A V E N RUE J.-SÉNEBIER RU E DE L’ATH ÉNEE A RD D E RUE DE-BEAUMONT
Museum of Geneva) A V EN UE H E N R I -D UN A N A V EN UE H E N R I -D UN A NT BO U LE VA RD D E S P H ILOS O PH E S COURS DES BASTIONS DE L’ATH ÉNEE B O U LE VA RD D ES T R A N C H É ES GENEV GENEVAA
Museum of Geneva)
R U E C .
R U E C .
RUE DE-BEAUMONT
RU E ÉMI L IE G OUR D
RUE J.-SÉNEBIER
R UE DU ST. VI CTO R
R. VIGNI ER RUE LES CH O T
R. VIGNI ER RUE LES CH O T - BONNET - BONNET RUE DE CONTAMINES RUE DE CONTAMINES area of area of
R. DE CANDOLL E
R. DE CANDOLL E
BD. DE LA C LUSE
BO U LE VA RD D E S P H ILOS O PH E S
0 metres 0 metres 200 N 200 N R UE D E C AR O UGE R UE D E C AR O UGE B O U LE V ROUTE DE FLORISSAN 0 km 1 0 km 1N N main map main map
0 yards 0 yards 200 200 RUE DES SOURCES R. PRÉVOST-MARTIN R. PRÉVOST-MARTIN BD. DE LA TOUR BD. DE LA TOUR BD. DE LA C LUSE AVENUE JULES CROSNIER 0 miles 0 miles1 1
MEG (Ethnographic U E D U M A I L
RUE DES SOURCES
A V E N U E D U M A I L T
ROUTE DE FLORISSANT
AVENUE JULES CROSNIER T
1.5 km (1 mile)
1.5 km (1 mile) R. EMILE-YUNG R. EMILE-YUNG
112-113_EW_Switzerland.indd 112 14/11/2018 16:05
EW Map template v1 – 24th April 2018
Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro

RUE DE MONTBRILLANT RUE DE MONTBRILLANT R U E D U P R I E U R É R U E DE BÂL E R. JEAN-CHARL E S AMAT Q U A I W Q U A I W A L D - W I L S O N GENEVA 12 Parc des Bastions

R. JEAN-CHARL E S AMAT
R U E DE BÂL E
RU E J E AN -JAQUE T
R U E D U P R I E U R É
Must Sees
1 Cathédrale St-Pierre
13 Bodmer Foundation
R U E D E L A USA NN E RUE DE FRIBOURG R U E D E L A USA NN E RUE DE FRIBOURG BE R N E R UE D E BE R N E R U E D ES PAQ UI S RU E D ES PAQ U IS R. DU LÉMAN R. DU LÉMAN 3 Jet d’Eau
R U E D ES PAQ UI S RU E D ES PAQ U IS
R UE D U M Ô L E
R UE D U M Ô L E
Museum of Geneva)
R. DE L'ANCIEN-PORT
Experience More
R. PH. PLANTAMOUR
R. PH. PLANTAMOUR
RU E J E AN -JAQUE T A L D - W I L S O N
GENEVA GENEVA R U E D E L A N A V I G A T I O N R. DE L'ANCIEN-PORT 2 Musée d’Art et d’Histoire 14 MEG (Ethnographic
R U E D E L A N A V I G A T I O N
Temple des
Temple des
1 Café-Restaurant de
Pâquis
RUE DE ZURICH R
4 Île Rousseau
l’Hôtel de Ville
Q U A I DU M ON T- B L AN C
Q U A I DU M ON T- B L AN C
R UE D E
5 Jardin Anglais
RUE DE ZURICH RUE DE ZURICH
R. DE NEUCHATEL
Pâquis UE DE ZURICH
2 Le Jardin
R UE DE MONTBRILLANT
R UE DE MONTBRILLANT
Théâtre
Théâtre
6 Place du Bourg-de-Four
RU E D E M ONT H OU X
RU E D E M ONT H OU X
R U E D U LY O N PL. DE MONTBRILLANT PL. DE MONTBRILLANT Cornavin PLACE DE CORNAVIN PRADIER R. DE NEUCHATEL R UE D O C T EUR- A LF du Léman du Léman 7 Musée Barbier-Mueller Drink
Notre-Dame ACE DE CORNAVIN
Gare de
Gare de
8 Maison Tavel
Cornavin
3 Atelier
RUE SISMONDI
9 International Red Cross
4 Blue Balloon
R U E D E
RUE P H. PLANTAMOUR
RUE P H. PLANTAMOUR
R U E D E L A S E R V E T T E
SQUARE
R U E D E L A S E R V E T T E
and Red Crescent Museum
PRADIER
R U E D U LY O N RUE JEAN-DASSIER de Genève Basilique R. DU MONT-BLANC R UE D E B E R NE R UE D E B E R NE RUE BONIVARD Brunswick Mausolée 10 Quartier des Bains
RUE D O C T EUR- A LF R ED- V INC E N T
R U E D U J U R A
RUE SISMONDI R ED- V INC E N T
R U E D U J U R A
Basilique
R U E D E S A L P E S
SQUARE S A L P E S
Notre-Dame
RUE PÉCOLAT
RUE PÉCOLAT
Q U AI D U MO N T-BL AN C
Q U AI D U MO N T-BL AN C
RUE JEAN-DASSIER
11 Palais des Nations
RUE A. FABR
RUE A. FABRII
de Genève PL
RUE DE MALATREX
RUE DE MALATREX
R. DU MONT-BLANC
Mausolée
RUE BONIVARD
PL. DES VINGT
PL. DES VINGT
Brunswick
DEUX-CANTONS
DEUX-CANTONS
BD. JAMES - FAZY
BD. JAMES - FAZY
RUE DE L'ENCYCLOPÉDIE
RUE DE L'ENCYCLOPÉDIE R UE VO LTA IR E Parc RUE DES TERREAUX-DU-TEMPLE R. DE CORN AVIN R. DE CHANTEPOULET R. DU MONT-BLANC de Genève Jet d’Eau Jet d’Eau Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R Parc Parc
R UE VO LTA IR E
Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R
RUE DES TERREAUX-DU-TEMPLE
RUE DU CENDRIER
RUE DU CENDRIER
RUE KLÉBERG
RUE ROUSSEAU UE KLÉBERG
Rade
Rade
R. DE CORN AVIN R. DE CHANTEPOULET R. DU MONT-BLANC
PLACE DES
PLACE DES
RUE ROUSSEAU
de Genève
R
BERGUES
BERGUES
R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S
R. DES ETUVES
R. DES ETUVES
La Grange
Temple de
R U E D E S A I N T - J E A N Parc RUE DU TEMPLE Temple de QUAI DE S B E RG UES Pont des Pont des Pont du Pont du R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S RUE MERLE D’AUBIGNÉ La Grange
QUAI DE S B E RG UES
R U E D E S A I N T - J E A N
Saint-Gervais
Saint-Gervais
Mont-Blanc
Mont-Blanc
Bergues
Bergues
Saint-Jean
Saint-Jean
PLACE DE
PLACE DE
RUE DU TEMPLE
QUAI TURRETTINI
QUAI TURRETTINI ST.GERVAIS ST.GERVAIS Île Île RUE MERLE D’AUBIGNÉ F A V R E
A V E N U E W I L L I A M -
Q U A I D U S E U J E T
Q U A I D U S E U J E T Pont de la Pont de la Rousseau Rousseau
Machine
Machine
Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R
A V E N U E W I L L I A M - F A V R E
RUE DU SIMPLON
Pont de la Pont de la Rhône Rhône Ponts Ponts
de l’Île
RUE DE MONTCHOISY
de l’Île
R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S
Coulouvrenièr
Coulouvrenièree
PLACE PLACE RUE DU SIMPLON
PLACE
DE L’ÎLE DE L’ÎLE PLACE Q U A I D U PROMENADE DU LAC RUE DE MONTCHOISY
PLACE PLACE DU RHONE DU RHONE G É N . G U I S A N Q U A I G U S T A V E A D O R RUE DU LAC RUE DU LAC R U E D E S E A U X - V I V E S
PROMENADE DU LAC
QUAI DE LA POSTE
QUAI DE LA POSTE BEL-AIR BEL-AIR PLACE PLACE Jardin Anglais
Q U A I D U G É N . G U I S A N
Jardin Anglais
DE LA
DE LA
R U E D E M O N T C H O I S Y
DU
DU
PLACE DE PLACE DE FUSTERIE FUSTERIE R U E D U R H Ô N E PLACE PLACE R. DES PIERRES-DU-NIT ON R U E D E S V O L L A N D E S
R U E D U R H Ô N E
PORT
R U E D E L A COULOUVRE N I ÈR E B RUE DU STAND HOLLANDE HOLLANDE R. DE LA CONFEDERATION PLACE DU PLACE DU PORT QUAI DU GÉNÉRAL-GUISAN R. DE LA SCIE R U E M U Z Y R U E M U Z Y
RU E DU NA NT
R. DES PIERRES-DU-NIT ON
R. DE LA CONFEDERATION
R U E D U S T A N D RUE JEAN-PETITOT R U E F R U E F BÉMONT BÉMONT R. DU MARCHÉ MOLARD MOLARD PLACE DE LONGEMALLE LONGEMALLE R U E D U R H Ô N E R U E D E M O N T C H O I S Y RU E DU
R U E D U S T A N D
QUAI DU GÉNÉRAL-GUISAN
RUE JEAN-PETITOT
PLACE
PLACE
PLACE DE R U E D U R H Ô N E
R. DU MARCHÉ
R. DE LA SCIE
R U E D E S V O L L A N D E S
PLACE DE LA PLACE DE LA RUE DE LA RÔTISSERIE RUE DU PORT RUE DU PRINCE RUE DU PORT RUE DU PRINCE R U E D U - 3 1 D É C E M B R E
SYNAGOGUE
R. DE LA SYNAGOGUE RUE DE L'ARQUEBUSE RUE DU STAND RU E D E L A CO R R ATE RI E RU E D E L A CO R R ATE RI E RUE D E LA CROIX-D’OR R. DE LA TOUR- MAÎTRESSE R. DE LA TOUR- MAÎTRESSE R U E D E L A M A I R I E
R UE D E H E S
RUE PIERRE FATIO RUE F. VERSONNEX
RUE DE LA CITÉ
RUE DE LA CITÉ
BLVD GEORG
RUE D’ITALIE
RUE DE LA RÔTISSERIE
Musée Barbier-
RUE D E LA CROIX-D’OR
RUE MAUNOIR RUE MAUNOIR R O N T E N E X
PLACE
Mueller
Mueller
RUE MAUNOIR RUE MAU
Cimetière des RU E D ES ROI S R. DE LA SYNAGOGUE ES FAVON BOVY LYSBERG GRAND-RUE Musée Barbier- Église de Église de RUE PIERRE FATIO RUE F. VERSONNEX DES
Cimetière des
R UE D E H E SS E R A N Ç O
DES
R O U T E D E F
Rois RUE DU DIORAMA RUE DU DIORAMA SYNAGOGUE S E R A N Ç O I S D I D A Y la Madeleine RUE R U E D E R I V E RUE D’ITALIE EAUX-VIVES EAUX-VIVES RUE DU NA N T RUE DU NA N T NOIR R O U T E D E F R O N T E N E X
R U E D U - 3 1 D É C E M B R E
GRAND-RUE
R U E D E L A M A I R I E
R U E D E R I V E
RU E D ES RO
Maison la Madeleine DU VIEUX- COLLÈGE ROND- ROND- BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE AVE DE FRONTENEX A V E N U E P I C T E T - D E -
Maison
R U E D E L A COULOUVRE N I ÈR E LVD GEORGES FAVON
R.-DU GÉNÉRA
POINT
POINT
AVE DE FRONTENEX
RUE DES
RUE DES
RUE BOVY LYSBERG I S D I D A Y Tavel Tavel DERIVE DERIVE
PLACE A V E N U E P I C T
GRANGES
GRANGES
RUE DE L'ARQUEBUSE
RUE DES BAINS E DES BAINS
BOULEVARD DE SAINT-GEORGES
BOULEVARD DE SAINT-GEORGES PLACE DU PLACE DU RUE L-DUFOUR Église St- Église St- R. DE LA FON TAINE R. DE LA FON TAINE CAPREFOUR CAPREFOUR RUE DE LA CHAPELLE R U E D E L A FL ÉCH E RUE DE LA CHAPELLE R U E D E L A
RUE DU VIEUX- COLLÈGE
BD. DU THÉATRE
BD. DU THÉATRE
CIRQUE
CIRQUE
Rois I S
RUE DES BAINS E DES BAINS
R. DU VILLAGE-SUISSE
R. DU VILLAGE-SUISSE R U E D U V I E U X - B I L L A R D Église du Église du PLACE DE PLACE DE E L A C ROI X-RO UG E Germain Cathédrale St-Pierre RUE F. HODL ER RUE F. HODL ER RUE DES GLACIS-DE-RIVE RUE DE LA TERRASSIÈRE FL ÉCH E E T - D E -
DE RIVE
R.-DU GÉNÉRAL-DUFOUR
DE RIVE
RUE DE VILLEREUSE
Germain
RUE
Cathédrale
R UE D
RUE DES SAVOISES Sacré-Coeur
Sacré-Coeur
St-Pierre
RUE DES SAVOISES
NEUVE
NEUVE
A V E N U E D U M A I L
A V E N U E D U M A I L
RUE DU MIDI
RUE DU MIDI
RUE DES GLACIS-DE-RIVE DE LA TERRASSIÈRE
R UE D U CO NS E IL- GÉ N ÉR AL
BLVD GEORGES-FAVON U CO NS E IL- GÉ N ÉR AL
PLACE L E V A R D J A Q U E S D A L C R O Z E
R. DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE
R. DE L’HÔTEL DE VILLE
Place du
R U E D U V I E U X - B I L L A R D
Place du
Around Genev
Quartier
Quartier
Geneva
Geneva
R U E D E L A C ROI X-RO UG E
Bourg-de-Four
des Bains
des Bains
International Airportt
International Airpor
Parc des
Parc des
RU
RU
Parc RUE GOURGAS RUE GOURGAS BLVD GEORGES-FAVON DUFOUR DUFOUR PROMENADE DES BASTIONS Bastions Bourg-de-Four RUE ADRIEN-LACHENAL RUE ADRIEN-LACHENAL RUE DE VILLEREUSE R O C H E M O N T Around Genevaa
RUE GOURGAS
Bastions
R.-DU GÉNÉRAL-
R.-DU GÉNÉRAL-
Université
Paroisse
Gourgas Gourgas Centre d’Art R UE D Université de l'Oratoire Paroisse B O U L E V A R D J A Q U E S D A L C R O Z E Église R U E C . ST U RM ROUTE DE MALAGNOU Red Cross and Palais des Palais des Lake Genevava
de Genève
Musée d’Art
de Genève
Musée d’Art
International
International
de l'Oratoire
Parc RUE GOURGAS
Red Cross and
et d’Histoire
et d’Histoire
PROMENADE DES BASTIONS
Red Crescent Museum
Centre d’Art
Red Crescent Museum
Nations
Nations
BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE
Contemporain
Contemporain
Lake Gene
RUE E. DUMONT
RUE E. DUMONT
ROUTE DE MALAG
Plainpalais
GUVENOT
Russe
Russe
GUVENOT NOU
PLACE
B O U
R U E C . ST U RM
DES
DES
R. DES VIEUX GRENADIERS
RU E D U SAI N T-LÉG ER
R. DES VIEUX GRENADIERS
CASEMATES
RU E D E CA N D O LLE
Bodmer
Bodmer
ROND-
ROND-
R. BERGALONNE Plainpalais POINT DE RU E D E CAN D O LLE COURS DES BASTIONS CASEMATES BOULEVARD HELVÉTIQUE RUE ÉMILIE GALLAND Église PLACE EMILE PLACE EMILE (Lac Léman) (Lac Léman) Foundation
R UE DU ST. VI CTO R S T R A N CH É ES
R. BERGALONNE
B O UL EVA R D
POINT DE
B O UL EVA R D
Foundation
C A R L-VO GT
C A R L-VO GT
PLAINPALAIS PLAINPALAIS RU E D U SAI N T-LÉG ER RU E RU E ÉMI L IE G OUR D
RUE ÉMILIE GALLAND
RUE DES MARAÎCHERS
RUE DES MARAÎCHERS
MEG (Ethnographic A V E N RUE J.-SÉNEBIER COURS DES BASTIONS DE L’ATH ÉNEE R U E C . RUE DE-BEAUMONT
Museum of Geneva) A V EN UE H E N R I -D UN A N A V EN UE H E N R I -D UN A NT BO U LE VA RD D E S P H ILOS O PH E S R UE DU ST. VI CTO R B O U LE VA RD D ES T R A N CH É ES GENEV GENEVAA
Museum of Geneva)
R U E C .
RUE DE-BEAUMONT
RU E ÉMI L IE G OUR D
RUE J.-SÉNEBIER
RU E DE L’ATH ÉNEE A RD D E
R. VIGNI ER RUE LES CH O T
R. VIGNI ER RUE LES CH O T - BONNET - BONNET RUE DE CONTAMINES RUE DE CONTAMINES area of area of
R. DE CANDOLL E
R. DE CANDOLL E
BD. DE LA TOUR
BO U LE VA RD D E S P H ILOS O PH E S
0 metres 0 metres 200 N 200 N R UE D E C AR O UGE R UE D E C AR O UGE B O U LE V ROUTE DE FLORISSAN 0 km 1 0 km 1N N main map main map
0 yards 0 yards 200 200 RUE DES SOURCES R. PRÉVOST-MARTIN R. PRÉVOST-MARTIN BD. DE LA TOUR BD. DE LA C LUSE BD. DE LA C LUSE AVENUE JULES CROSNIER 0 miles 0 miles1 1
MEG (Ethnographic U E D U M A I L
RUE DES SOURCES
A V E N U E D U M A I L T
AVENUE JULES CROSNIER T
ROUTE DE FLORISSANT
1.5 km (1 mile)
1.5 km (1 mile) R. EMILE-YUNG R. EMILE-YUNG
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EXPERIENCE Geneva




















1










2











3



1 Mont Salève cable car.
2 A paddle steamer docking
on Lake Geneva.
3 The Jet d’Eau, seen from
Geneva’s cathedral.
4 4 Touring Maison Tavel.
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2 DAYS





in Geneva



Day 1 Day 2
Morning Start the day discovering early Morning Enjoy a leisurely morning
Geneva at the city’s oldest house, 12th- croissant by the river, then take a walk
century Maison Tavel (p121). Spend a through the university campus to the
couple of hours diving into Geneva’s International Red Cross and Red Crescent
fascinating history, then, once you’ve Museum (p122), where the well-curated
worked up an appetite, swing by one three-part permanent exhibition takes
of the lively local markets to choose visitors on an emotional journey to high-
picnic treats from stalls crammed light humanitarian efforts around the
with fresh produce. world. From there, head over the Arve
Afternoon Visit the home of the Large river via the cross-hatched Hans-Wilsdorf
Hadron Collider at CERN (home.cern) for bridge and make your way to Carouge,
a fascinating 3-hour (pre-booked) tour. If Geneva’s very own “Little Italy”. Towards
you would rather be out in the fresh air, the neighbour hood’s southern end is
hop on bus 8 for an easy outing up industrial-chic Blue Balloon (p121).
“Geneva’s moun tain”, Mont Salève Serving up an excel lent coffee, it’s
instead. Get off at Veyrier-Douane, where the perfect spot for a petit pause.
it’s a mere 10-minute walk across the Afternoon Allow some time to take in
Swiss–French border (remember your the sights, sounds and delicious smells
passport) to the foot of the cable car that of this dynamic neighbourhood. Once a
ascends the mountain. Travel to the top hamlet built in the Sardinian style, it is
and pop into the summit restaurant for now a bohemian enclave, filled with arti-
coffee with a stupendous view over the san boutiques, craftsmen’s workshops
city and Lake Geneva. Follow the paths and quaint streets lined with independent
that cling to the rockface. There are glori- bistros and cosy cafés.
ous views to be found round every corner. Evening Stroll back along the river
Evening Return to the city for an towards the Old Town and dine at the
atmospheric dinner aboard the Savoie iconic Café-Restaurant de l’Hôtel de Ville
paddle steamer, built in 1914. As you (p123). Dating from 1764, it is steeped in
dine, the boat passes numerous land- the old-fashioned charm of a neighbour-
marks, including the impressive Jet d’Eau hood bistro, serving up classic Genevois
(p120), a powerful water fountain that has dishes such as traditional Fricasée de
become symbolic of the city. porc (spiced pork stew).
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1 "'
CATHÉDRALE


ST-PIERRE


EXPERIENCE Geneva daily; church: Jun–Sep: 9am–6:30pm Mon–Sat, noon–6:30pm
 C4 ⌂ 6–8 Cour St-Pierre # Archaeological site: 10am–5pm
Sun, Oct–May: 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat, noon–5:30pm Sun
∑ site-archeologique.ch
Built over a span of some 70 years from 1160 to 1230,
with later additions, Geneva’s vast cathedral is a mish-
mash of styles, from the Gothic to the Neo-Classical,
and a mix of Catholic and Protestant symbolism.
Archaeological evidence, unearthed in the
1970s, show that there has been a Christian John Calvin’s chair
church on this site since at least AD 360. A is in the nave.
complex of 4th-cen tury ecclesiastical build-
ings were erected here – and subsequently A triforium surmounts
built over repeatedly until the 1100s, when the arches in the
the complex was razed and work began on groin-vaulted nave.
the present Gothic-Romanesque cathedral.
While the cathedral faced a programme of
reinven tion, as religi ous aesthetic principles
changed, the original structure remained
largely untouched until 1976, when exca-
vations under and around the cathedral
were started. Today, beneath the
cathedral, an archaeo logical
museum displays remains
from some of the 4th-
century buildings, as
well as the findings of
excavations from
the surrounding area.



The cathedral, a mix of
architectural styles and
religious symbolism








GREAT VIEW
City Panorama
Climb the narrow steps
(all 157 of them) that Main entrance
wind up the north
The flamboyant
tower to enjoy the 15th-century Chapelle
spectacular panoramic des Macchabées
views over the city.

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Must See







The tall spire
was added in
the 19th-century.





1














2 3
1 A riot of colour fills the
Tomb of Henri de Rohan presbytery, from the stained-
glass windows to the brilliantly
painted ceiling.
Romanesque and 2 An exquisitely carved animal
Gothic stonework in the stalls is a survivor of the
capitals survived purge of the Reformation.
the Reformist purge.
3 A bas relief of St Pierre
stands outside Geneva’s
austere cathedral.
The intricately
carved back panels
and canopy
originally stood
near the choir.


Timeline 360s 1160-1230 1500s 1970s
A Christian church
Remains of the 4th-
Construction of
Flamboyant interiors
▼
▼
▼
▼
original cathedral.
century church uncovered
consecrated on this site.
removed by Reformers
in favour of austerity. during renovations.
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2 \=
MUSÉE D’ART ET


D’HISTOIRE


EXPERIENCE Geneva Geneva’s impressive Museum of Art and History, presenting
 D4–D5 ⌂ 2 Rue Charles-Galland # 11am–6pm Tue–Sun ∑ mah-geneve.ch
paint ings, sculpture and artifacts covering prehistory to the
present day, is the city’s largest art museum. Visitors can
easily spend several hours here perusing the vast collection,
which consists of over half a million items.

The museum is divided into sections: the large archaeological
section contains around 70,000 pieces from Egypt, Greece,
Rome and other ancient cultures. The displays of applied
arts feature furniture (including side chairs, armchairs, table
and bookcase designed by Josef Hoffmann of the Vienna
Workshops for the 19th-century Swiss painter Ferdinand
Hodler), textiles, stained glass, musical instruments and
other fine objects. The fine arts collections cover major
artistic movements and key artists in the history of Western
painting, from the 15th to the 21st century. Look out for works
by Monet, Picasso and Rubens, as well as Konrad Witz’s 1444
Miraculous Draught of Fishes, arguably the highlight of the
museum. Excellent temporary exhibitions are frequently
held, which are free for children, though there is usually
an admission charge for adults.




























The elegant
museum, which
was built between
1903 and 1910

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Must See

GALLERY GUIDE
In the basement are
displays of archae­
ological discoveries
made in the Geneva
region, while archae­
ological exhibits from
ancient civilizations
occupy the lower 1
ground floor. Also on
the ground floor are
rooms devoted to the
applied arts; temporary
exhi bitions are hosted
here too. The first floor
is closed to the public,
but paintings and sculp­
tures are dis played on
the second floor, repre­
senting artists from
across Europe who 2 3
lived and worked from
medieval times to the
modern age. 1 In his 1907 Le Bain Turc Swiss artist Félix Vallotton (1865–
1925) pays homage to Neo­Classical painter Jean­Auguste­
Dominique Ingres’s masterpiece The Turkish Bath.
2 Venus bids farewell to Adonis before setting off on a fatal
hunt in this marble statue carved by Antonio Canova (1757–
1822); Venus is based on one of Canova’s most famous models.
3 The Miraculous Draught of Fishes is part of the altarpiece
that Konrad Witz made for the Cathédrale St­Pierre (p116)
in 1444. In the background is a view of Geneva.





Did You Know?
A huge renovation for
the museum was post­
poned after Genevans
rejected the idea
in 2016.

























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EXPERIENCE MORE



to construct a perma nent tradition, created in 1955, has
fountain, which became more eight intersecting wheels and
spectacular as more powerful features 6,500 flowering plants.
pumps were installed. Visible Protruding from the lake at
a point just north of the Jardin
from afar and floodlit after
EXPERIENCE Geneva of Geneva and has been down by glaciers during the
dark, the Jet d’Eau is the pride
Anglais are two stones brought
adopted as the city’s emblem.
Ice Age. They are known as
the Pierres du Niton (Neptune’s
Stones); the larger of the two
was once used as the reference
4
Île Rousseau
measured in Switzerland.
 C3 ⌂ Pont des Bergues point from which altitude was
Geneva’s spectacular A walkway jutting out at a
Jet d’Eau, the world’s right angle from the centre 6 "
highest fountain of the Pont des Bergues leads Musée Barbier-
to a medieval bastion in the Mueller
3 Rhône. Now known as the Île  C4 ⌂ 10 Rue Jean-Calvin
Rousseau, it is named after
Jet d’Eau Jean-Jacques Rousseau # 11am–5pm daily
(1712–78), the writer and phi- ∑ barbier-mueller.ch
 E2 ⌂ Off Quai Gustave-
Ador losopher of the Enlightenment Almost hidden away in a back
who was one of Geneva’s street near the Cathédrale
Standing isolated on a jetty on most distin guished citizens. St-Pierre (p116), this art
the south bank of Lake Geneva, museum with stunning works
the Jet d’Eau is the world’s from tribal and classical
highest fountain, shoot ing a 5 antiquity. It was founded in
plume of water 140 m (460 ft) 1977 to pre serve a collection
into the air, at a rate of 500 Jardin Anglais begun in 1907 by the Muellers,
litres (110 gallons) per second  D3 ⌂ Quai du Général- a family of art collectors. On
and a speed of 200 km per Guisan display are sculptures, masks
hour (125 mph). It came into and other artifacts from Africa,
existence almost by accident. Laid out on the lakeside at the Asia and Oceania, as well as
In the late 19th century a foot of the Old Town, the Jardin items from the ancient world.
purely functional fountain was Anglais (English Garden) offers
set up to relieve excess water an open view of the harbour
pressure while a reservoir and quayside buildings. At its 7
system was being installed. entrance is the Horloge Fleurie,
The fountain was so popular a large floral clock. This tribute Place du Bourg-
that the authorities decided to Switzer land’s clock-making de-Four
 C4
Probably overlying Geneva’s
Roman forum, the Place du
Bourg-de-Four was the city’s
marketplace in the Middle
Ages. Today, lined with 16th-
century houses, art galleries
and antiques shops, and with
busy cafés and restaurants,
the square is still the hub of
Geneva’s Old Town.
The imposing Palais de
Justice on the southeastern
The Île Rousseau and side of the square was built in
Quai des Bergues on 1707–12 and has been used as
the River Rhône the city’s law courts since 1860.
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Place du Bourg-de-Four, Gothic façade, with three tiers forces during the civil war of
the bustling heart of of windows and a turret at one 1847, he managed to defeat
Geneva’s Old Town corner, is decorated with the the separatists. He was also
Tavel coat of arms, as well as a founder of the Inter national
with curious stone sculptures Red Cross – the neutral organ-
Nearby, on Rue de l’Hôtel-de- of animal and human heads. ization that assists victims of
Ville on the southwestern side Although it was rebuilt after war and violence – which has
of the square, stands the Hôtel the fire of 1334, which des- its head quarters nearby (p122).
de Ville. Built in the 15th cen- troyed much of Geneva, the
tury, it was originally the city earliest record of the house
hall and now serves as the seat goes back to 1303.
of the can tonal auth orities. Maison Tavel now houses
The Tour Baudet, a tower dat- the Musée du Vieux Genève, a DRINK
ing from 1455 and the oldest museum devoted to daily life
part of the city hall, once in Geneva from the 14th to
housed the cantonal archives. the 19th centuries. While the Atelier
On the ground floor of the basement is reserved for Perfectly balanced
Hôtel de Ville is the Alabama temp orary exhibitions, the wines and hand-mixed
Room, where the Geneva rest of the house is filled with cocktails in an
Convention was signed in 1864 exhibits, including coins, iron- industrial-chic setting.
and where the Inter national work, tiles, wooden doors and  E3 ⌂ Rue Boissonnas
Red Cross was recognized as a other elements of ancient 16 ¢ Sun
humani tar ian organization. It houses. Twelve rooms on the ∑ latelierlounge.ch
was also here that the League second floor illustrate urban 
of Nations assembled for the life in the 17th century. In
first time, in 1920. the attic is a huge model of
Geneva, made in 1850, before Blue Balloon
the city’s medieval fortifi- Delicious snacks and
8 cations were demolished. A barista-perfect coffee in
über-hip surroundings,
son-et-lumière presentation
Maison Tavel highlights points of interest just right for a
on the model. petit pause.
 C4 ⌂ 6 Rue du Puits-St- A separate section is  A4
Pierre # 10am–6pm Tue– ⌂ Rue Ancienne 41
Sun ∑ institutions.ville- devoted to Général Dufour § 041 22 301 58 58
geneve.ch (1787–1875), the son of a
Genevan clock maker who 
Built by the Tavel family, this created a 1:100,000-scale topo-
fine limestone building is the graphic map of the country. As
oldest house in Geneva. The commander of the Federal
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EXPERIENCE Geneva













Historical and background
9 '- information is then provided. 11 "'
International Red The “On the Spot” area shows Palais des Nations
Cross and Red the latest news from the field
Crescent Museum on an interactive globe.  F5 ⌂ 14 Avenue de la
Paix # Apr–Jun: 10am–
 F5 ⌂ 17 Avenue de la noon & 2–4pm daily; Jul &
Paix # Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Aug: 10am–4pm daily; Sep–
Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am– 10 Mar: 10am–noon & 2–4pm
5pm Tue–Sun ∑ redcross Quartier Des Bains Mon–Fri ∑ unog.ch
museum.ch Built in 1929–36 the Palais des
 A4 ∑ quartierdes
Moving and harrowing yet bains.ch Nations is the focal point of
inspiring hope, this museum Geneva’s international area. It
within the head quarters of the This vibrant district in the began as the headquarters of
International Committee of city’s west end centres on the League of Nations, which
the Red Cross is devoted to an inde pen dent and private has been founded in 1920. In
documenting human kindness grouping of 18 galleries and 1946 the League was replaced
and compassion, as well as the photography studios. Set in by the United Nations and in
cases of cruelty and suffering a stretch bet ween the Rhône 1966 the Palais des Nations
that the Red Cross has sought and the Arve, the collective became the official Geneva
to alleviate since its foundation frequently shares themed head quarters of the UN. Some
in 1863. The building, a glass- exhibitions, and are dedicated 3,000 people from all over
and-concrete bunker, is des- to promoting the latest in the world now work here.
igned to allow natural light contemporary art, ranging Parts of the palace are open
to illuminate the rooms. from installations to sculpture. to the public, with guided
The museum initiates A number of cool bars and tours (bring identification)
visitors into contemporary restaurants are nearby. available in 12 langu ages.
humanitarian action with an Tours take in the Salle du
interactive exhibition designed Conseil (Council Chamber),
around three zones, each by HIDDEN GEM whose walls and ceiling are
Bains des Pâquis
an internationally renowned decorated with allegorical
architect: Defending Human Jutting out into Geneva’s paintings by the Catalan artist
Dignity (Gringo Cardia, Brazil), lake are the Bains des Josep Maria Sert, depicting,
Reconstructing the Family Link Pâquis (www.bains- among other things, a vision
(Diébédo Francis Kéré, Burkina des-paquis.ch), public of a future free of conflict.
Faso) and Refusing Fatality baths with hot tubs, Visitors can also see the Salle
(Shigeru Ban, Japan). Within Turkish baths, good food des Assemblées (Assembly
each zone, visitors “live and enough shoreside Hall). With seating for 2,000
through” an intense emotional towel space for (almost) people, it is the largest of the
experience, with the aim of everyone in the city. United Nations Office’s 30-
raising awareness of an issue. something conference rooms.
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International Red Cross
and Red Crescent Museum
EAT
exhibit, and sculpture (inset)
a wall 100 m (330 ft) long Café-Restaurant de
on which stand 5-m- (16-ft-) l’Hôtel de Ville
tall statues of four of the
leaders of the Reformation in Exceptional traditional
Geneva: Guillaume Farel, Jean Genevois fare.
Calvin, Théodore de Bèze and  C4 ⌂ Grand-Rue 39
John Knox. Flanking the ∑ hdvglozu.ch
monument are mem orials 
to Martin Luther and Ulrich
Zwingli, two other leaders Le Jardin
of the Reformation.
Artfully presented
French cuisine.
 A4 ⌂ Rue Adhémar-
13 "' Fabri 8-10
Bodmer Foundation ∑ lerichemond.com
 5F ⌂ Route Martin 
Bodmer 19–21, Cologny
# 2–6pm Tue–Sun
∑ fondationbodmer.ch
Just north of the city centre,
in the Cologny area, is a large
villa with formal gardens and 14 '-
a unique mission: to be a MEG (Ethnographic
museum of the human mind. Museum of Geneva)
The Parc des Nations, which The 150,000 items include  A5 ⌂ Blvd Carl-Vogt 65
surrounds the UNO, is planted ancient Egyptian papyrus # 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
with trees and decorated with books of the dead and pages ∑ ville-ge.ch/meg
in teresting sculptures. bearing the handwritten scrib-
blings of William Shakespeare. Opened in 2014, MEG has
Also on view are a Gutenberg already won awards, both
12 Bible and Gottfried Liebnitz’s for its innovative architecture
and for its theme of human
copy of Sir Isaac Newton’s
Parc des Bastions ground breaking Principia diversity – amply exhibited
Mathematica, complete with by costumes, folk music
 4C
his cramped margin notes. and workshops.
Created in the 18th century,
the Parc des Bastions lies just
outside the ramparts on the
south side of the city. Along
the eastern edge of the park
is the Mur des Réformateurs
(Reformation Wall), which was
erected in 1909 to mark the
400th anniversary of the birth
of Jean Calvin and the 350th
anniversary of the foundation
of Geneva’s Academy, the city’s
fa mous Protestant school. The
monument takes the form of

The sleek modern building
of the MEG (Ethnographic
Museum of Geneva)
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A SHORT WALK
OLD TOWN




Distance 1.5 km (1 mile) Nearest bus stop Maison Rousseau,
Place de Neuve Time 25 minutes the birthplace of the
EXPERIENCE MORE Geneva around the cathedral and Place du Bourg-de- Rousseau, is at
18th-century writer
Set on elevated ground on the south bank of
and philosopher
the Rhône, the Old Town (Vieille Ville) clusters
Jean-Jacques
Four. This atmospheric district, whose main
Grand-Rue 40.
thoroughfare is the pedestrianized Grand-Rue,
has narrow cobbled streets lined with historic
START
limestone houses. While the southern limit of
the Old Town is marked by the Promenade des
Bastions, laid out along the course of the old
city walls, its northern side slopes down to the
quay, which is lined with wide boulevards and
the attractive Jardin Anglais. G R A N D - R U E R U E J E A N C A L V I N

Did You Know?
FINISH R U E D E S G R A N G E S
Place du Bourg-de-
Four is the oldest R U E D U P U I T S – S T – P I E R R E
square in Geneva,
dating back to
Roman times. R A M P E D E L A T R E I L L E

Hôtel de Ville, where
the first Geneva
Convention was
signed in 1864 P R O M E N A D E D E L A T R E I L L E






















Outdoor cafés in
Place du Bourg-de-
Four in Geneva
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GENEVA




Locator Map
For more detail see p112
The ornate interior of Geneva’s
majestic Cathédrale St-Pierre

Maison Tavel (p121), the oldest house
in the city, was built in 1334. It is now a
museum documenting daily life in Cathédrale St-Pierre (p116),
Geneva through the ages. completed in the 13th century,
stands on the site of several earlier
buildings, including a bishop’s
palace, whose mosaic floor survives.

R U E J E A N C A L V I N
R U E D U P U I T S – S T – P I E R R E R U E D E L A F O N T A I N E R U E V E R D A I N E














R U E D E L ´ H Ô T E L D E V I L L E
PLACE DU BOURG– R U E D E S C H A U D R O N N I E R S
DE–FOUR
P R O M E N A D E D E L A T R E I L L E
RUE É DUMONT The central square of



Place du Bourg-de-Four
(p120) was used as a
market place in the Middle
Ages. It is still lined with
old inns, as well as modern
cafés and restaurants.




0 metres 60 N
0 yards 60


125



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The sun rising over a verdant vineyard overlooking Lake Geneva


























WESTERN

SWITZERLAND



Bordered by France, French-speaking western
Switzerland is known as Suisse Romande, or
Romandie. The region was settled by Gallic Celts,
around 450 BC, and annexed by the Christianized
Burgundians in the 5th century AD. The Burgudians’
language, customs and architecture were swiftly
adoped through out the region, and the French-
Swiss cultural identity remains strong to this day.
Although western Switzerland was taken over
by the German Savoy in the 1100s, the French
connection was such that the borderlands region
of Vaud was placed under the protection of the
governing body in Paris following the French
Revolution. It was only in 1806 that Vaud become
a canton of Switzerland, with Lausanne as its
capital. With relatively easy countryside to
navigate, western Switzerland has attracted
those escaping European conflict. During the
Protestant Reformation, refugees flooded Jura,
setting in motion the country’s now world-famous
watchmaking industry. During the two World Wars,
the region again became a safe harbour for
refugees who made it across Kilometre Zero at
the France-Swiss border. Today these same sunny
hillsides serve as a gateway into this winemaking
region’s more mountainous landscapes.
127



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Montbéliar 0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 15 15 N N
Montbéliardd
Boncourt Boncourt
NORTHERN 0 miles 0 miles 15 15
NORTHERN
Porrentruy Porrentruy SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
Fahy Fahy p172 p172
JUR A JUR A
Baume-les-Damesames
Baume-les-D ST-URSANNE Delémont Delémont
ST-URSANNE
Bassecourt Bassecourt
Saint-Hippolyte
WESTERN WESTERN Saint-Hippolyte
SWITZERLAND Laviron Laviron Balsthal Balsthal Zofingen Zofingen
SWITZERLAND
FRANCHES-
Saignelégier FRANCHES-
Saignelégier
MONTAGNES
Passavant Passavant MONTAGNES
Le Noirmant Langenthal
Le Noirmant
Langenthal
Pierrefontaine-
Pierrefontaine- Grenchen Grenchen
Doubs
les-Varans les-Varans
Bonnétage Bonnétage Doubs Sursee Sursee
Valdahon Valdahon St. Imier St. Imier
Biel/Bienne
Biel/Bienne
LA CHAUX-
LA CHAUX-
DE-FONDS
DE-FONDS Huttwil Huttwil
Omans Omans
Chouzelot Chouzelot Bieler Bieler Lyss Lyss
LE LOCLE
LE LOCLE See See Burgdorf Burgdorf
Aare Aare Wolhusen Wolhusen
NEUCHÂTELTEL
NEUCHÂ Erlach Erlach
Saint-Gorgon- Aarberg Aarberg
Saint-Gorgon-
FR ANCE Main Main J u r a J u r a NEUCHÂTEL
FR ANCE
NEUCHÂTEL
Peseux Peseux Kerzers Kerzers
Noiraigue Noiraigue Bern Bern
Lavier Lavier Boudry Boudry Lac de Köniz Köniz
MURTEN/
Lac de
Les Les Fleurier Neuchâtel Lac de Lac de MURTEN/
Fleurier
Neuchâtel
CREUX DE
Verrières Verrières CREUX DE Morat Morat MORAT MORAT Bern Bern
International
ESTAVAYER-
Pontarlier Pontarlier VAN VAN ESTAVAYER- International Airport
Airport
LE-LAC LE-LAC AVENCHES Saane Saane
AVENCHES
Münsingen
Frasne Frasne Concise Concise Münsingen
STE-CROIX
STE-CROIX
Cheyres Cheyres
Schwarzenburg
Malbuisson L‘Auberson
GRANDSON
Malbuisson L‘Auberson GRANDSON Payerne Payerne Villars-sur- Villars-sur- FRIBOURG Schwarzenburg
FRIBOURG
YVERDON-
YVERDON- Glâne Glâne
LES-BAINS Marly Marly
LES-BAINS
BERN
Champagnole
Champagnole La Broye La Broye BERN
Orbe Orbe
Rossens
VALLORBE
Mouthe Mouthe VALLORBE Lucens Lucens Slâne Slâne Rossens
Thierrens Thierrens Romont Romont
Romainmôtier Lac de la Lac de la
Romainmôtier
Gruyère
Gruyère
Le Pont Le Pont La Sarraz La Sarraz Moudon Moudon Erlenbach Erlenbach
FRIBOUR GG
Lac de Lac de Echallens Echallens FRIBOUR
Joux Joux Bulle Bulle Jaun Jaun
VALLÉE DE JOUXVAUD
VALLÉE DE JOUX VAUD
Cossonay Cossonay Cheseaux Cheseaux
Morez Morez Le Brassus Le Brassus GRUYÈRES MITTELLAND,
MITTELLAND,
GRUYÈRES
Châtel-
Châtel-
Bussigny Bussigny Essertes Essertes St-Denis BERNESE OBERLAND
BERNESE OBERLAND
St-Denis
a Bière a Bière AND VALAIS
AND VALAIS
LAUSANNE
r r Vufflens- Vufflens- LAUSANNE Pully Pully
u u le-Château le-Château Sarine Sarine Rougemont p80 p80
Rougemont
J J Morges Morges
Cully Cully Blonay Blonay Gstaad Gstaad
VEVEY VEVEY CHÂTEAU
CHÂTEAU
St. Cergue St. Cergue Rolle Rolle LAKE GENEVA MONTREUX D'OEX D'OEX Lenk Lenk
MONTREUX
LAKE GENEVA
CHÂTEAU DE
Saint- Saint- Gland Gland CHÂTEAU DE Gsteig Gsteig
CHILLON
Claude Claude Nyon Nyon CHILLON LEYSIN LEYSIN
Thonon-l Thonon-les-Bainses-Bains Rhône Rhône LES LES
DIABLERETS
DIABLERETS
Gex Gex
Tannay Tannay AIGLE AIGLE
Les Diablerets
Douvaine Douvaine Les Diablerets Sierre Sierre
3,210 m (10,531 ft)
3,210 m (10,531 ft)
Versoix Versoix La Baume La Baume
VILLARS-SUR-
Geneva International
Geneva International VILLARS-SUR-
Airport Airport OLORON OLORON Sion Sion
Monthey Monthey Bex Bex
Meyrin Meyrin
FR ANCE
Geneva Geneva FR ANCE
GENÈVE
GENÈVE Lancy Lancy Annemasse
Annemasse
Rhône Rhône Montriond Montriond Euseigne Euseigne
Collonges Collonges Neydens Neydens Saxon Saxon
Valleiry Valleiry Martigny Martigny
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Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro

Montbéliardd
Montbéliar 0 kilometr 0 kilometreses 15 15 N N
Boncourt Boncourt
NORTHERN 0 miles 0 miles 15 15
NORTHERN
Porrentruy Porrentruy SWITZERLAND
SWITZERLAND
Fahy Fahy p172 p172
JUR A JUR A
Baume-les-Damesames
ST-URSANNE
Baume-les-D ST-URSANNE Delémont Delémont
Bassecourt Bassecourt
Saint-Hippolyte
WESTERN WESTERN Saint-Hippolyte
SWITZERLAND Laviron Laviron Balsthal Balsthal Zofingen Zofingen
SWITZERLAND
FRANCHES-
Saignelégier FRANCHES-
Saignelégier
MONTAGNES
Passavant Passavant MONTAGNES
Le Noirmant Langenthal
Le Noirmant
Langenthal
Pierrefontaine- Grenchen Grenchen
Pierrefontaine-
Doubs
les-Varans les-Varans
Bonnétage Bonnétage Doubs Sursee Sursee
Valdahon Valdahon St. Imier St. Imier
Biel/Bienne
Biel/Bienne
LA CHAUX-
LA CHAUX-
DE-FONDS
DE-FONDS Huttwil Huttwil
Omans Omans
Chouzelot Chouzelot Bieler Bieler Lyss Lyss
LE LOCLE See See Burgdorf Burgdorf
LE LOCLE
Aare Aare Wolhusen Wolhusen
NEUCHÂTELTEL
NEUCHÂ Erlach Erlach
Saint-Gorgon-
Saint-Gorgon- Aarberg Aarberg
FR ANCE Main Main J u r a J u r a NEUCHÂTEL
FR ANCE
NEUCHÂTEL
Peseux Peseux Kerzers Kerzers
Noiraigue Noiraigue Bern Bern
Lavier Lavier Boudry Boudry Lac de Köniz Köniz WESTERN
MURTEN/
Lac de
Les Les Fleurier Neuchâtel Lac de Lac de MURTEN/
Fleurier
Neuchâtel
CREUX DE
Verrières Verrières CREUX DE Morat Morat MORAT MORAT Bern Bern
International
ESTAVAYER-
Pontarlier Pontarlier VAN VAN ESTAVAYER- International Airport SWITZERLAND
Airport
LE-LAC LE-LAC AVENCHES Saane Saane
AVENCHES
Münsingen
Frasne Frasne Concise Concise Münsingen Must Sees
STE-CROIX 1 Lausanne
STE-CROIX
Cheyres Cheyres
Schwarzenburg
GRANDSON
Malbuisson Malbuisson L‘Auberson L‘Auberson GRANDSON Payerne Payerne Villars-sur- FRIBOURG Schwarzenburg 2 Lake Geneva
Villars-sur-
FRIBOURG
YVERDON-
YVERDON- Glâne Glâne 3 Château de Chillon
LES-BAINS Marly Marly 4 Fribourg
LES-BAINS
BERN
Champagnole La Broye La Broye BERN
Champagnole
Orbe Orbe
Rossens
VALLORBE
Mouthe Mouthe VALLORBE Lucens Lucens Slâne Slâne Rossens Experience More
Thierrens Thierrens Romont Romont 5 Leysin
Romainmôtier Lac de la Lac de la
Romainmôtier
Gruyère
Gruyère
Le Pont Le Pont La Sarraz La Sarraz Moudon Moudon Erlenbach Erlenbach 6 Vevey
FRIBOUR GG
Lac de Lac de Echallens Echallens FRIBOUR 7 Aigle
Joux Joux Bulle Bulle Jaun Jaun 8 Montreux
VALLÉE DE JOUXVAUD
VALLÉE DE JOUX VAUD
Cossonay Cossonay Cheseaux Cheseaux 9 Les Diablerets
Morez Morez Le Brassus Le Brassus GRUYÈRES MITTELLAND, 10 Villars-sur-Oloron
MITTELLAND,
GRUYÈRES
Châtel-
Châtel-
Bussigny Bussigny Essertes Essertes St-Denis BERNESE OBERLAND 11 Château d’Oex
BERNESE OBERLAND
St-Denis
a Bière a Bière AND VALAIS
AND VALAIS
LAUSANNE
r r Vufflens- Vufflens- LAUSANNE Pully Pully 12 Gruyères
u u le-Château le-Château Sarine Sarine Rougemont p80 p80
Rougemont
J J Morges Morges 13 Murten/Morat
Cully Cully Blonay Blonay Gstaad Gstaad 14 Vallorbe
VEVEY VEVEY CHÂTEAU 15 Yverdon-les-Bains
CHÂTEAU
St. Cergue St. Cergue Rolle Rolle LAKE GENEVA MONTREUX D'OEX D'OEX Lenk Lenk 16 Estavayer-le-Lac
MONTREUX
LAKE GENEVA
CHÂTEAU DE
Saint- Saint- Gland Gland CHÂTEAU DE Gsteig Gsteig 17 Avenches
CHILLON
Claude Claude Nyon Nyon CHILLON LEYSIN LEYSIN
Thonon-l Thonon-les-Bainses-Bains Rhône Rhône LES LES 18 Grandson
DIABLERETS
DIABLERETS 19 Ste-Croix
Gex Gex
Tannay Tannay AIGLE AIGLE 20 Neuchâtel
Les Diablerets
Douvaine Douvaine Les Diablerets Sierre Sierre
3,210 m (10,531 ft) 21 Vallée de Joux
3,210 m (10,531 ft)
Versoix Versoix La Baume La Baume
VILLARS-SUR-
Geneva International VILLARS-SUR- 22 Le Locle
Geneva International
Airport Airport OLORON OLORON Sion Sion
Monthey Monthey Bex Bex 23 La Chaux-de-Fonds
Meyrin Meyrin 24 Franches-Montagnes
FR ANCE
Geneva Geneva FR ANCE
GENÈVE
GENÈVE Lancy Lancy Annemasse 25 Creux de Van
Annemasse
Rhône Rhône Montriond Montriond Euseigne Euseigne 26 St-Ursanne
Collonges Collonges Neydens Neydens Saxon Saxon
Valleiry Valleiry Martigny Martigny
128-129_EW_Switzerland.indd 129 15/11/2018 10:08

1922


The year T S Eliot
completed the poem
The Wasteland, while
under psychiatric care
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland
in Lausanne.


















The terracotta-coloured
rooftops of Lausanne’s
hilltop Old Town
1 \-= Fondation de
LAUSANNE 1 " AVE VINGT- AV E N U E BE R G I E R E S CHEMIN D ES CEDRES RUE DE LA BORDE l’Hermitage
l’Hermitage
Place de la Palud
QUATRE-JANVIER
Parc de
Collection
town hall, a grand two-storey
! B4 ⌂ 200 km (124 miles) SW of Zürich n 9 Place de la Lausanne’s 17th-century de l’Art Brut A V. L. VULLIEMIN
Gare; 4 Place de la Navigation; www.lausanne-tourisme.ch arcaded build ing fronted by AV E A L EX AN D R E-V I N E T RUE DU VALLON CHUV
the arms of the city, domi- RUE DE MAUPAS RUE DU VALENTIN PLACE DU
Nestled within the outstandingly beautiful the north nates the south side of this AVE NUE DE BE AU L I E U TUNNEL R. DE L’INDUSTRIE
shore of Lake Geneva, Lausanne is one market square. On 10 April RUE DU TUNNEL Château R U E D U B U G N O N
of Switzerland’s finest cities. A Roman 1915, the founder of the AVENUE DE FRANCE RUE SAINT-ROCH R. PRÉ DU MARC HÉ AVE DE
lakeshore settlement in the 1st century, modern Olympics, Pierre de L’UNIVERSITÉ St-Maire
its inhabitants later moved to higher Coubertin, ratified the estab- AVE D'ECHALLENS PLACE R U E D E L’A L E Palais de RUE CITÉ DERRIÈRE R UE ST-MARTIN RUE DR CÉSAR ROUX
Rumine
lish ment of the International
ground. This area is now the city’s Old Olympic Committee here and CHAUDERON Riponne-M. PLACE RUE P.-VIRET AV. R. DE M ENTHON
Béjart
Town. Lausanne became a bishopric in moved the head quarters to R U E D E G E N È V E RUE DE TERREAUX Église DE LA
RUE W.
Place de
the late 6th century, and its Fondation the city. Tour Bel-Air St-Laurent ALDIMAND RIPONNE Cathédrale
la Palud
PLACE
Académie was founded here in 1537. At the centre of the square PONT CHAUDERON and Salle Métropole BEL-AIR R. DE Notre-Dame
Musée
Today the city remains a centre of the is the 16th-century Fontaine Viglie Cocooning LA LOUVE Historique
cultural and economic life of French- de la Justice, with a figure of Flon Lausanne- PLACE R. DU PONT BESSIÈRES AVENUE DE BETHUSY
Flon
PONT CH.
speaking Switzerland. Its importance is Justice. The cov ered wooden Musée Romain AVENUE JULES-GONIN RUE DU GRAND PONT PEPINET RUE CENTRALE RUE CAROLINE Ours
stairs beyond, known as the
evident – it is the location of the Federal Escaliers du Marché, lead to 2.5 km (1.5 miles) ALLÉE ERNEST-ANSERMET Blondel Bessières AV E N UE DU TRIBUNAL-FEDERAL
Supreme Court and the International Rue Viret, from where further Esplanade de R. DURAND-CHÊNE Église Chorus
RUE DE BO URG
Montbenon
Parc
Olympic Committee. steps lead up to the cathedral. St-François St-François R. S T. PIERRE Mon-Repos
Place
The square is a popular AVENUE LOUIS-RUCHONNET AV. B. CONSTANT Particules en
Suspension
meeting area. A street market CHEMIN DE MORNEX A V E N U E M O N - R E P O S
takes place here twice a week RUE B EA U - SÉ J OU R
The figure of Justice on Wednesday and Saturday, Lausanne- RUE DE LA GROTTE AVENUE DE THEATRE
AV EN UE SA IN TE -L UC E
PLACE
crowning the 16th-century and once a month the square DE LA GARE Gare
Fontaine de la Justice is filled with a crafts fair. AVE NUE DE L A G AR E 0 metres 300 N
Lausanne
AVENUE DU MONT-D'OR Ouchy station Olympic Museum
130 Loom Gelateria 1.5 km (1 mile) 1 km (0.6 mile) 0 yards 300
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Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224

Must See
2 "
Tour Bel-Air and Métropole’s programme still
Salle Métropole features some of the world’s
most highly acclaimed talents,
⌂ 1 Place Bel-Air § 021 345
00 29 among them the Ukrainian
Classical Ballet and the
Set on a steep slope, at the musician Alain Chamfort. The
foot of the Old Town, the Tour Lausanne Symphony Orchestra
Bel-Air was Switzerland’s first also makes its home here.
high-rise structure. Standing
50 m (165 ft) high, it contains
offices, resi dential apartments GREAT VIEW
and the Salle Métropole Across the
the atre. Completed in 1931, Rooftops
the building was initially con- Built on a hill, the lower
sidered “an insult to good and higher parts of the
sense and taste”, but quickly city are connected by a
became a beloved landmark. series of steps. Take the
Inspired by the cityscape of market stairs up to the
New York, the buil ding gives cathedral, then climb all
the town’s skyline a touch of the way into the belfry,
met ro politan verve. which is the highest
The theatre has become one point in the city, to soak
of the city’s cultural hubs and up stunning views
has hosted some of the best across the roofs of old
in the performing arts. In its Lausanne to the green
heyday, audiences flocked steeple of St-François
here to see dancer Josephine church, the lake and
Baker and trumpeter Louis the mountains beyond.
Armstrong. These days the


Fondation de
l’Hermitage
QUATRE-JANVIER de l’Art Brut CHEMIN D ES CEDRES RUE DE LA BORDE A V. L. VULLIEMIN l’Hermitage
AVE VINGT-
Parc de
AV E N U E BE R G I E R E S
Collection
AVE NU E DE BE AU L I E U RUE SAINT-ROCH RUE DU VALENTIN RUE DU TUNNEL Château RUE DU VALLON R. DE L’INDUSTRIE R U E D U B U G N O N CHUV
PLACE DU
TUNNEL
AV E A L EX AN D R E-V I N E T
RUE DE MAUPAS
AVE DE
Palais de L’UNIVERSITÉ St-Maire R UE ST-MARTIN
AVENUE DE FRANCE
PLACE R U E D E L’A L E Rumine RUE CITÉ DERRIÈRE RUE DR CÉSAR ROUX
R. PRÉ DU MARC HÉ
AVE D'ECHALLENS
CHAUDERON RUE P.-VIRET
Riponne-M.
Béjart PLACE AV. R. DE M ENTHON
DE LA
RUE W.
Église
PONT CHAUDERON Viglie and Salle Métropole BEL-AIR ALDIMAND RIPONNE Historique Cathédrale
Place de
R U E D E G E N È V E
St-Laurent
RUE DE TERREAUX
la Palud
Notre-Dame
Tour Bel-Air
PLACE
Musée
Cocooning
R. DE
LA LOUVE
Flon
Lausanne-
Flon PLACE R. DU PONT BESSIÈRES AVENUE DE BETHUSY
PONT CH.
PEPINET RUE CENTRALE RUE CAROLINE Ours
Musée Romain AVENUE JULES-GONIN RUE DU GRAND PONT
2.5 km (1.5 miles) ALLÉE ERNEST-ANSERMET Blondel Bessières AV E N UE DU TRIBUNAL-FEDERAL
RUE DE BO URG
Esplanade de Église Chorus
Montbenon R. DURAND-CHÊNE St-François
Place R. S T. PIERRE Parc
St-François Mon-Repos
Particules en
AV. B. CONSTANT
Suspension A V E N U E M O N - R E P O S
RUE DE LA GROTTE AVENUE DE THEATRE
CHEMIN DE MORNEX
AVENUE LOUIS-RUCHONNET
RUE B EA U - SÉ J OU R
Lausanne-
AV EN UE SA IN TE -L UC E
PLACE
DE LA GARE Gare
0 metres 300 N
AVE NUE DE L A G AR E
Lausanne
AVENUE DU MONT-D'OR Ouchy station Olympic Museum
Loom Gelateria 1.5 km (1 mile) 1 km (0.6 mile) 0 yards 300
130_135_EW_Switzerland.indd 131 14/11/2018 16:05

3 " INSIDER TIP
Place St-François Jazz Nights
You can catch the latest
At the centre of this square young talents from
stands the Église St-François, Lausanne’s renowned
built in the 13th and 14th jazz school performing
cen turies as the church of a at various venues across
the city. Chorus, an
Franciscan monastery. The
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland the church stripped of its deco- ruins of a 10th-century church,
atmospheric cellar near
monastery was dissolved
the city centre (www.
during the Reformation and
chorus.ch), is one of our
favourites. Some gigs
ration. A 1990s restoration
are free.
lifted the façade but the inter-
ior is disappointingly bland.
The streets leading off Place
St-François are among the
city’s smartest. Rue du Bourg,
its façade was added in the
latter half of the century.
which is lined with old houses,
contains swanky jewellers’
Free choral concerts, with
an aperi tif, are offered
shops and bijou bou tiques,
as well as bars and jazz clubs.
throughout the year.
The streets of the popular
4 5 " Flon district pulsing with
energy after dark
Église St-Laurent Musée Historique
⌂ Rue St-Laurent ∑ saint ⌂ 4 Place de la Cathédrale which dates from the 11th cen-
laurenteglise.eerv.ch # 11am–6pm Tue–Thu,
11am–5pm Fri–Sun (Jul & tury. The museum’s collections
Amid the well-preserved Aug: also 11am–6pm provide a detailed account of
houses of the Old Mon) ∑ lausanne.ch/mhl the city’s history from its
Town stands the inhabitation by Celtic tribes to
Protestant Église Lausanne’s museum of the pre sent day. Don't miss
St-Laurent. his tory fills the the fascinating model of
Completed restored rooms of Lausanne as it was in 1638.
in 1719, the former
on the bishop’s palace,
6 "'
Palais de Rumine
⌂ 6 Place de la Riponne
§ 021 316 33 10 # 11am–
6pm Tue–Thu, 11am–5pm
Fri–Sat
Built in 1896–1906, the
imposing Neo-Renaissance
Palais de Rumine was once
home to the University of
Lausanne. It now contains
several museums covering
archaeology and history, fine
art, geology, zoology and
numismatics (the study of
currency) – all with the same
hours and a shared admission
The steps of the Église
St-Laurent, a popular place
to meet on a sunny day





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Must See






























fee. Of par ticular interest is and the canton of Vaud was led
the Musée Cantonal des by the notary turned soldier
Beaux-Arts, on the ground Jean Davel, who was beheaded
floor, which has a fine collec- in 1723 on the orders of the
tion of Swiss paint ings from Bernese authorities after he SHOP
the 18th to the 20th centuries. led an abortive separatist
The museum of history and movement. A monu ment to Blondel
archaeology, on the sixth his memory stands in front An institution since
floor, displays a large number of the château. The buil ding 1850, Blondel’s
of artifacts unearthed in local is now the seat of the can tonal sumptuous window
excavations. The exhib its authorities of Vaud. displays and the
range from the Bronze Age delectable whiff of
to the medieval period, and chocolate wafting out
one of the finest is a gold bust 8 the door make it impos­
of Marcus Aurelius, dis covered sible to pass by this shop
at Avenches in 1939. Flon without going in.
Once the main industrial ⌂ Rue de Bourg 5
district of Lausanne, Flon ∑ blondel.ch
7 was built on a river of the same
name that was filled over in
Château St-Maire the 19th century. If you look Cocooning
down, you can still see water Pick up soaps, creams
⌂ Place du Château and other cosmetics
running in a narrow channel
Although it is closed to visitors, under the pavement. These here. They are hand­
you should still seek out this days the area has thrown off made using natural
former bishop’s palace. The its grubby industrial past to ingredients – you can
massive brick and sandstone become a buzzy entertainment pick up a body butter
made with the Swiss
edifice was built in 1397–1427 district, its former warehouses national flower –
for the bishops of Lausanne, converted into shops, bars,
who ruled the city. When they restaurants, galleries, a cinema edelweiss – for instance.
were overthrown by Bernese complex and the buzzing MAD ⌂ Rue Grand-Saint-Jean
forces, the châ teau became the night club. The main pedestrian 16 ∑ cocooning.ch
resi dence of new overlords, the square hosts a jungle-themed
bailiffs of Bern. The fight for pop-up bar in summer and an
the indepen dence of Lausanne ice rink in winter.
133



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9 "=
Collection de l’Art Brut Run Up by Nag Arnoldi at
the Olympic Museum,
⌂ 11 Avenue des Bergières overlooking Lake Geneva
# Jul & Aug: 11am–6pm
daily; Sep–Jun: 11am–6pm
Tue–Sun; free adm 1st Sat
of the month ∑ artbrut.ch
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland to art created by people living 0 "'\ and donated to the city by his
Art Brut (“Raw Art”) is the
name that the French painter
Jean Dubuffet (1901–85) gave
on the fringe of society, such as
criminals, patients at psychia­
tric hospitals or institu tions,
and spiri tualist mediums, who
had no artistic training. The
ideas behind their art were free
descendants. Now known as
from established cultural influ­
it is a gallery with an impressive
ences and the history of a fine
⌂ 1 Quai d’Ouchy # May–
arts tradi tion. In 1945 Dubuffet
collection of Impressionist and
Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Nov–
Post­Impressionist paintings,
began to amass a pri vate col­ Olympic Museum the Fondation de l’Hermitage,
Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
lection, which he pres ented ∑ olympic.org/museum as well as the works of Vaudois
to the city of Lausanne in artists from the 20th century.
1971. The Collection de l’Art Set in peaceful parkland Every year the Fondation also
Brut opened in 1976. planted with Mediterranean stages two or three large­scale
The exhibits are laid out trees and shrubs, the well­ tempo rary exhibitions.
over four floors in converted presented Olympic Museum The Parc de l’Hermitage, the
stables at the 18th­century illustrates the fasci nating extensive grounds in which
Château de Beaulieu, north­ history of the Olympic move­ the villa is set, is landscaped
west of the city centre. These ment. Everything from the with exotic trees. Towards
extraordinary works have a athletes of Ancient Greece its northern extrem ity is the
striking force and spon taneity. to the Olympic Games of Signal de Sauvabelin, a hill
Along side each exhibit is a today is explored via inter­ which rises to a height of 647 m
short bio graphy of the artist, active stations, photo graphs, (2,120 ft) and offers views of
providing insights into the videos, archive film footage Lake Geneva and the Alps..
circum stances in which these and multimedia pres entations. Beyond the hill are woodland
works were created. With its excellent facilities for
school groups, the museum
draws over 200,000 visitors a
year. There are many displays
specifically geared towards
younger visitors, such as “All
EAT Different, All Winners” where
games investigate themes
such as fair play and diversity.
Loom Gelateria
Join the queue out the
door to sample delicious
artisanal ice cream. q "\=
Among the more Fondation de
adventurous offerings l’Hermitage
here are lapsang-
souchong sorbet and ⌂ 2 Route du Signal
curry ice cream. # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
⌂ Boulevard de Grancy (to 9pm Thu) ∑ fondation
45 ∑ loom-gelateria.ch hermitage.ch
 The imposing Neo­Gothic villa
set in magnificent grounds
north of Lausanne was built
in 1842–50 by Charles­Juste
Bugnion, a wealthy banker,
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Must See
and the Lac de Sauvabelin,
where there is a reserve for INSIDER TIP
ibexes, marmots and other Lakeside once defended the harbour. It
alpine animals. Pop-ups forms part of the Neo-Gothic
All throughout the Château d’Ouchy, which was
summer, lively pop-up built in the 1890s. The château
w bars and restaurants is now a hotel and restaurant.
take over the lakeshore.
A short walk along the lake-
Parc Mon-Repos Join the locals by taking shore will take you to the
a dip in the lake followed Hôtel d’Angleterre. This is
⌂ Avenue Mon-Repos
by an apéro and some the house where Lord Byron
This landscaped park is the tasty nibbles at Jetée stayed dur ing his visit to
most elegant of all the city’s de la Compagnie (www. Lausanne and where he
gar dens. At its centre is a Neo- jeteedelacompagnie.ch). wrote The Prisoner of Chillon,
Classical villa, once inhab ited a poem which details the
by the 18th-century French imprisonment of a Genevois
writer Voltaire. The villa was monk, François Bonivard.
later home to the Olympics e \-=
revivalist Baron Pierre de Ouchy
Coubertin (1863–1937), who ⌂ On Lake Geneva, 2 km
believed that sport plays an (1 mile) S of central r "'
essential role in the develop- Lausanne q M2 Musée Romain
ment of citizens and nations. ⌂ 24 Chemin du-Bois-
In 1894, he established the Once a fishing village, Ouchy is de-Vaux # Jul & Aug:
International Olympic now a popular lakeside suburb 11am–6pm daily; Sep–
Committee (IOC), and two of Lausanne. It has a beautiful Jun: 11am–6pm Tue–Sun
years later the first modern setting on Lake Geneva, with ∑ lausanne.ch/mrv
Olympic Games were held in views of the surrounding
Athens. Until the 1970s this was mountains, and a tree-lined About ten minutes’ walk west
also the IOC’s headquar ters. lakeshore promenade. Cruises of Ouchy are the remains of
At the north end of the park on the lake depart from here. Lousonna and Vidy, two Roman
stands Switzerland’s supreme A tower is all that remains towns that flourished from
court buildings. of the 12th-century castle that 15 BC to the 4th century AD.
Finds uncovered during an
Beyond the hill are woodland and the Lac exca va tion here, including
de Sauvabelin, where there is a reserve for glass ware and fine mosaics,
are on show in the Musée
ibexes, marmots and other alpine animals. Romain nearby.























Boats and pedalos in
the harbour of Ouchy,
a former fishing village
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t "
CATHÉDRALE Did You Know?


NOTRE-DAME A nightwatchman calls
the hour from 10pm to
2am from each of the
cathedral’s towers.
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland ∑ lausanne-tourisme.ch/en/P10661
⌂ 1 Place de la Cathédrale # Church: 9am–5:30pm daily
(til 7pm Apr–Sep); tower: hours vary, check website
At the centre of Lausanne towers the magnificent
Cathédrale Notre-Dame. Begun in the mid-12th
century and completed in the 13th, it is the finest
Gothic building in Switzerland.
The cathedral is built on the site of a Roman camp and
overlies the foundations of Carolingian and Romanesque
Illustration of
basilicas. With a central nave flanked by aisles, an ambu­
latory and a transept over which rises a tower and an
Gothic Cathédrale
Notre-Dame
apse, the cathedral’s design and decoration show Lausanne’s majestic
the influence of the French Gothic style.
The southern arm of the transept is lit by
a 13th­century rose window with stained
glass depicting the seasons, the elements
and signs of the Zodiac. Consecrated by
Pope Gregory X in 1275, Notre­Dame has
been a Protestant cathedral since the
Reformation. The top of the southwest
tower provides a spec tacular view of the
city and Lake Geneva.
The north tower
contains the
Chapelle St-Maurice.
























The west entrance
is known as the
Montfalcon Portal.
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Must See
1 One of Switzerland’s most
The tower was visited sights, the Cathédrale
completed Notre-Dame attracts over
in the 19th 400,000 visitors every year.
century.
2 The cathedral has multiple
decorative stained-glass
windows, such as this one.
3 An ornate crucifix, standing
in the cathedral’s central
nave. Notre-Dame is a
working cathedral with
regular services.




1
Rose window










2











3

INNOVATIVE ORGAN
The cathedral’s striking
organ was the first in
Carved decorative Europe to be built by an
details, including American, although it was
human figures, fill made to Italian Giorgetto
the vaulting. Giugiaro’s design, and the
The vestibule is first to feature four styles:
decorated with Romantic, Classical French,
late-Gothic murals Symphonic French and
This Bernese pulpit is dating from the Baroque. Most impressive
topped by a canopy early 16th century. is that it can be played
with intricate wooden remotely, by any other
tracery from 1666.
organist playing an organ
in another part of the world,
thanks to a cutting-edge
inter face system.


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2
LAKE GENEVA



! A5–B5 ⌂ 90 km (56 miles) SW of Bern n Lausanne, 60 Avenue d’Ouchy;
www.lake-geneva-region.ch
Lying in an arc bordered by the Jura mountains to the west, the French Alps
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland While most of the lake’s southern shore is French
to the south and the Mittelland to the northeast, Lake Geneva, known as
Lac Léman in French, is the largest lake in the Alps.


territory, the greater part of the lake lies within
Switzerland. With the mountains reflected in
its still blue waters, it is one of Switzerland’s
most spellbinding sights. Its shores are
dotted with towns and villages, including
the cosmo politan resort Montreux (p145),
the romantic winemaking village of
St-Saphorin and, of course, the city of
Geneva (p110). Many of these are the
depar ture points of boat trips on the
lake, an ideal way to take in its serene
sights; alternatively take to the shore
path, a 1,142-km- (26-mile-) long trail that
weaves its way around the water.

































The enchanting Château de
Chillon, nestled on the lakeside,
which is best viewed from
aboard a cruise (inset)
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Must See













2





1
1 A statue of Queen frontman Freddie
Mercury stands in Montreux, where the
band recorded its album Made in Heaven.
2 Lake Geneva is dotted with beaches,
provid ing plenty of opportunity for a dip.
3 The lake is surrounded by verdant
vineyards and several walking trails. 3


THE VINEYARDS
OF LAKE GENEVA
Switzerland isn’t
known for its wine –
but that’s only because
the Swiss drink the
vast majority of it
themselves, exporting
only around 1 per cent.
One of its main wine­
growing regions (of
which there is a good
handful) is the UNESCO
World Heritage Site of
Lavaux, where vines
grow on the sunny
slopes above Lake
Geneva in terraces,
some of which date
back as far as the 12th
century. The grapes
benefit from what
Did You Know? wine growers call the
three suns – the sun
The bottled water itself, its reflection off
brand Evian is sourced Lake Geneva and the
from Évian­les­Bains, heat from the stone
on Lake Geneva. terrace walls. Once a
year, the cellar doors
in local vineyards are
thrown open for
tasting weekends.


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3 "'-=
CHÂTEAU Two bedchambers

are located here.
DE CHILLON banqueting
Aula Nova,
a former
hall, now
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland This enchanting medieval castle, set on a rocky
! B3 ⌂ 21 Ave de Chillon # 10am–5pm daily ¢ 1 Jan
contains a
and 25 Dec ∑ chillon.ch
museum.
spur on the eastern shore of Lake Geneva, is one
of Switzerland’s most evocative sights and
attracts hordes of visitors each year.
Built for the Dukes of Savoy, the castle’s origins
probably go back to the 11th century; however,
its present appearance dates from the 13th
century. In 1536, the castle was captured by
the Bernese, and from then until 1798 it was
the seat of the region’s Bernese bailiffs.
Following the Vaudois Revolution of 1798,
the castle became national property and
has belonged ever since to the canton of
Vaud. Throughout its history the castle
was the centre of court life, and it was
also used as a prison. Its most famous
captive was François Bonivard, impris­
oned there from 1530 to 1536. Today,
the castle’s many guided tours (by
reservation only) are a great way
to explore its history.

IMPRISONMENT
OF FRANÇOIS
BONIVARD
Born in 1493, François
Bonivard was the prior
of St Victor, a monas tery
just outside Geneva.
Following his opposition
to the Duke of Savoy’s
infringements against
the liberties of the city
of Geneva, he was held The spectacular The covered
prisoner at Chillon for six Castellan’s Hall bridge was
long years. Bonivard was has a wooden originally a
finally freed in 1536, ceiling resting drawbridge.
when the Bernese on columns that
support arches.
attacked and gained The walls are richly
control of the castle. He decorated with
was later immortalized paintings.
by Lord Byron in the long Did You Know?
narrative poem The
Prisoner of Chillon, which The castle’s damp, dark
he wrote in Ouchy while dungeons are cut into
travelling with fellow the bedrock of the
authors Percy Bysshe and Illustration of the island itself.
Mary Shelley, in 1816. Château de Chillon, a
popular historical sight
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Must See
Heraldic The Grand Ducal Hall
Hall has chequered walls
and a 15th-century
wooden ceiling.

The Ducal Chamber,
also known as the
Camera Domini, has
a wooden beamed
ceiling and contains
Gothic furniture.

















The chapel, dedicated to
St George, is in the early
Gothic style, with a
rib-vaulted ceiling. The
The vaulted walls and ceiling are
underground covered with frescoes.
chambers were
once used as
a prison.
1 Built on a rocky island,
the castle was also defended
by thick walls and three
semicircular turrets.
2 Soft light pours out upon
one of the castle’s four
cobblestoned courtyards.
3 This bedroom, named the
Bergfrieg, the tower
that was the castle’s Bernese Chamber, features
final defence, is one of wall paintings and period-
its oldest elements. appropriate furnishings.
1












2 3

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EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland













































Did You Know?

The Pont de Berne,
built in 1653, is the
city’s last remaining
covered wooden
bridge.
The River Sarine flowing
under the Ponte de
Berne at Fribourg
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Must See
4
FRIBOURG



! B4 ⌂ 33 km (20 miles) SW of Bern n 1 Place Jean-
Tinguely; www.fribourgtourism.ch
With steep cobbled streets, immaculately preserved
Gothic houses and numerous fountains, Fribourg
(known as Freiburg in German) is one of the most
attractive towns in Switzerland.

Set on a rocky peninsula within a bend of the River Sarine (the
Saane in German), Fribourg was founded in 1157 by Berthold IV
of Zähringen, and joined the Swiss Confederation in 1481.
Despite the Reformation, Fribourg remained Catholic, and
a Catholic university was founded here in 1889. The town’s
historic core has plenty to interest visitors. Just north of the
Gothic Cathédrale St-Nicolas is the Éspace Jean Tinguely–Niki
de Saint-Phalle, a vast gallery with works by Fribourg-born Jean
Tinguely and his wife, Niki de Saint-Phalle. Next to it, set in a
restored granary, is the Gutenberg Museum, showcasing the
history of printing. South of the cathe dral is the short Rue d’Or, The city’s 1899 funicular,
worth a quick visit for its row of Gothic houses. The penin sula one of the last in Europe
is connected to the river’s south bank by the Pont de to run on waste water
Berne, which leads to the Place des Forgerons,
with a pretty Renaissance fountain The Franciscan Église
and vestiges of the old des Cordeliers, with
town fortifications. The Musée d’Art art and carvings
et d’Histoire dating from the
13th century onwards

Tilleul de Morat, Éspace Jean
the descendant RUE DE MORAT Tinguely–Niki
of a linden tree Cathédrale de Saint-Phalle
planted to mark St-Nicolas,
a 1476 victory dating from Gutenberg
over Charles 1283–1490 Museum
the Bold at PLACE
Murten (Morat) NOTRE– Basilique
DAME
Notre-
RUE DU PONT–MURE
Dame
RUE DES ÉPOUSES








The elegant GRAND–RUE RUE DU PONT–SUSPENDU RUE DES CHANOINES
Hôtel de Ville
(1522), with a
fountain depict-
ing St George
and the dragon
Illustration
The Baroque Maison de
Ville, designed by Hans showing Fribourg’s
Fasel and built in 1730–31 historic core
143



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EXPERIENCE MORE



5
Leysin
! B5 £ @ n Place Large;
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland resort, occupies a mountain
www.leysin.ch
The village of Leysin, now a
popular winter and summer
terrace with views across to
the Dents du Midi and down
onto the Rhône Valley. Lying
at an altitude of 1,260 m
(4,135 ft), Leysin enjoys an
unusually dry and sunny
climate. Once a centre for the
treatment of tuberculosis, the
Geneva between Lausanne
village later evolved into a ski
restaurant at the top of
resort. Cable cars carry visi­ of land on the shore of Lake The revolving panoramic
and Villeneuve. The region’s
Berneuse, above Leysin
tors up to the Tour de Mayen climate and culture attracted
(2,326 m/7,631 ft) and to English Romantics Lord Byron
Berneuse (2,037 m/6,683 ft). and Mary Shelley in the 19th paintings and sculpture by
century, and later Charlie Switzerland’s prominent
Chaplin, who spent the last 25 19th­ and 20th­century artists,
6 years of his life in Vevey. as well as the vast Fondation
Known in Roman times as
Oskar Kokoschka, which con­
Vevey Viviscus, Vevey was once Lake tains 800 paintings by the
Geneva’s main port. By the Austrian artist. The museum
! B5 £ @ n 5 Rue du 19th century it was the first also has the largest collection
Théâtre, Montreux; www.
montreuxriviera.com industrial town in the canton of lithographs by Rembrandt
of Vaud. It was here, in 1867, in Europe.
With Montreux, Vevey is one that Henri Nestlé estab lished
of the two best­known holi­ the powdered milk factory Chaplin’s World
day resorts of the Swiss that revolutionized baby "\ ⌂ 2 Route de Fenil, Le
Riviera – the stretch foods. Nestlé still has its Manoir-de-Ban # Jan–Mar &
international headquarters Oct–Dec: 10am–5pm daily;
in Vevey. Apr–Sep: 9am–6pm daily
The most attractive part of ∑ chaplinsworld.com
A statue
of Charlie Vevey is its Grande Place Musée Jenisch
Chaplin in (also known as Place du " ⌂ 2 Avenue de la Gare
Marché). On Tuesday and
Vevey
Saturday mornings this # 10am–6pm Tue–Sun
huge square is filled with (to 9pm Thu) ∑ musee
a market, and in summer jenisch.ch
regional growers offer
wine tastings. A folk arts
market is also held here INSIDER TIP
on Saturday mornings in Night Sledging
July and August. For a thrilling and
Chaplin’s World, a museum magical experience,
dedicated to the comedian’s try sledging in the dark.
life and work, is located in Le Take the cable car up
Manoir­de­Ban, Chaplin’s Les Diablerets three
former home. It features evenings a week to
personal items, and an sledge down its 7-km
interactive studio, as well (4.5-mile) sledge run,
as re­created film sets. one of the longest in
East of the train station is the country.
the Musée Jenisch, housing
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7 Musée de la Vigne et du Vin
and Musée International
Aigle de l’Étiquette 200,000
! B5 £ @ n 5 Rue Colomb; " ⌂ Château d’Aigle, 1 Place
du Château § 024 466 21 30
www.aigle-tourisme.ch
# Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct: 11am– The average number of
Aigle is the capital of the 6pm Tue–Sun; Jul–Aug: 11am– people who attend the
Chablais, a wine-growing 6pm daily ∑ museeduvin.ch annual Montreux
region that lies southeast of Jazz Festival.
Lake Geneva and produces
some of Switzerland’s best 8
wines. Set among vineyards
covering the foothills of the Montreux Opposite this hotel is the
Alpes Vaudoises, the town is ! B5 £ @ n 5 Rue du Centre des Congrès, con-
dominated by the turreted Théâtre ∑ montreux taining the Auditorium
Château d’Aigle. Built in the riviera.com Stravinsky, a concert hall built
12th century by the Savoyards, in 1990 and dedicated to Igor
it was severely damaged in The jewel of the Swiss Riviera, Stravinsky (1882–1971), who
the 15th century and later Montreux is renowned for its composed The Rite of Spring
rebuilt as the residence of annual jazz festival. The town while in Montreux.
the region’s bailiffs. began to develop as an inter- On the lakeshore is a statue
The castle now houses the national tourist resort in of Freddie Mercury, vocalist in
Musée de la Vigne et du Vin, about 1815, and its golden the band Queen, who made
whose exhibits illustrate the age lasted until the outbreak Montreux his second home.
age-old methods of vine of World War I in 1914.
cultivation and winemaking. Montreux has many belle
Opposite this museum is époque hotels. The most 9
the Musée International de famous of them is the
l’Etiquette, which documents Montreux Palace on Grand Les Diablerets
the history of wine labels. Rue, west of the town centre.
! B5 £ @ n Rue de la Gare;
www.diablerets.ch
Set among alpine meadows
in the Ormonts valley, the
ski resort of Les Diablerets
lies at an altitude of 1,150 m
(3,775 ft). The peaks here are
3,210 m (10,531 ft) high and
amid them lies the glacier of
the same name.
Attractions include the
Alpine Coaster, the world’s
highest bobsleigh on rails,
and the Monster Snowpark,
for skilled freestyle skiers and
snowboarders. There’s also
the narrow Peak Walk – the
world’s first sus pension bridge
to link two mountain peaks,
the Scex Rouge and Glacier
3000. At 2,987 m (9,800 ft)
above sea level, it is also the
second-highest suspen sion
bridge in the world after Titlis
Cliff Walk in Obwalden. The
platform offers stunning views
of the Alps.


The turreted Château d’Aigle,
now a museum of wine
and winemaking
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10 11 district of Gruyère, is a
popular destination for
Villars-sur-Ollon Château d’Oex visitors, and is often crowded
during the summer. As its only
! B5 ! B5 ⌂ Place du Village 6; street is pedestrianized,
www.chateau-doex.ch
One of the most popular ski vehicles must be left in the
resorts for families in the A stop on the stunning train parking areas below.
Vaud Alps, the village of route from Montreux to Gstaad, The village has houses
Villars-sur-Ollon sits on a
dating from the 15th to the
the pretty Château d’Oex is
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland cogwheel train transports church, which sits proud on a Gruyères. Built in the 11th
17th centuries and is crowned
immediately identifiable
sunny plateau at 1,300 m
(4,300 ft), from where a
thanks to its 15th-century
by a castle, the Château de
century, the castle was continu-
steep hill in the centre of the
visitors to Col-de-Bretaye
ously inhabited by the counts
village. An attractive, sleepy
at 1,800 m (6,000 ft).
of Gruyères until the mid-16th
Up here on the summer
place, the village’s main draw
century, when the bankrupted
meadows golfers can enjoy an
is its special microclimate
which is favourable to hot-air
19th count fled and his lands
18-hole course with a view of
ballooning. Flights are avail-
Mont Blanc; come winter the
were divided between the
whole area is taken over by
able all year, and it’s especially
lords of Bern and Fribourg.
skiers. There are some good
acquired by the Bovys, a
when it hosts the nine-day
gentle slopes, making it a
wealthy Genevan family who
decent resort for beginners,
International Balloon Festival.
carried out extensive and
Watching multicoloured
while the chairlift links to worth visiting in late January In 1848, the castle was
neighbouring Gryon and balloons rise up off the white much-needed restoration. In
Les Diablerets mean more snow and ascend into (usually) 1939 the castle passed into
experienced skiers have plenty clear blue skies is a supremely the ownership of the cantonal
of challenging runs to keep joyful experience.
them entertained.
INSIDER TIP
Gruyère Cheese
12 At La Maison du Gruyère
Did You Know? Gruyères (www.lamaisondu
! B4 @ n 26 Place des gruyere.ch), a dairy in
The first tour of the Alpes, Bulle; www.la- Pringy, at the foot of
world in a hot-air gruyere.ch Gruyères, visitors can
balloon set off from watch the famous
Château-d’Oex, Visible from afar against the cheese being made.
in 1999. backdrop of alpine scenery, Don’t forget to taste
the well-preserved medieval it at the restaurant.
village of Gruyères, in the
The popular winter resort of
Villars-sur-Ollon, with gentle
slopes, ideal for beginners
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Sampling cheesy dishes
at La Maison du Gruyère’s
restaurant, Pringy

authorities of Fribourg. It now 22 June 1476, that Baroque gatehouse with
contains a museum. Displayed the forces of the Swiss a clock dating from 1712.
in rooms with frescoes and Confederation crushed the The Musée Historique, in a
grand fireplaces, the exhibits army of Charles the Bold, disused mill on the lakeshore,
include 16th­century Flemish Duke of Burgundy, killing displays prehistoric finds from
tapestries and booty taken 12,000 of his soldiers, while local archaeological exca­
after the Battle of Murten losing only 410 of their own. vations, and items relating
(1476). Delicate landscapes According to legend, a mes­ to the Burgundian Wars. It
by the French Impressionist senger ran 17 km (10 miles) also stages frequent tem­
painter Jean­Baptiste Corot from Murten to Fribourg with porary exhibitions.
(1796–1875), who stayed at news of the victory, dropping
the castle, are also on view. dead with exhaustion on his Musée Historique
You can visit the château and arrival. His sacrifice is com­ " ⌂ 4 Ryf, Murten # Apr–
grounds at your own pace or memorated by an annual run Oct: 2–5pm Tue–Sat, 10am–
join one of the regular guided between Murten and Fribourg 5pm Sun ∑ museum
tours (in a number of lang­ that takes place on the first murten.ch
uages, including English). Sunday in October.
The town was founded by
Château de Gruyères the Zähringer dynasty in the ALPINE CATTLE
" ' ⌂ 8 Rue du Château 12th century, and is still DESCENTS
# Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; encircled by walls dating from Each autumn after
Nov–Mar: 10am–4:30pm daily the 12th to the 15th centuries. several happy months
∑ chateau-gruyeres.ch Hauptgasse, the main street munching on alpine
through the old town, is lined flowers on the high
with 16th­century arcaded mountain pastures, it’s
13 houses with overhanging time for the cows to
eaves. The rampart walk,
Murten/Morat reached from several points come home to the
valley for the winter.
along Deutsche Kirchgasse, Many villages, includ-
! B4 £ @ n Französische
Kirchgasse 6; www. offers views of the Murtensee, ing Charmey, near
murtentourismus.ch the castle and of the Old Gruyères, host a day-
Town’s brown­tiled houses. long celebration with
The resort town of Murten At the western end of the plenty of local wine,
(Morat in French) lies on town is a 13th­century castle, cheese and bell-ringing
the eastern shore of the with a courtyard that provides as the cows and their
Murtensee (Lac de Morat). a fine view over the lake. At the farmers parade
It has strong historical asso­ eastern end stands Berntor through the streets.
ciations. It was at Murten, on (or Porte de Berne), a striking
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Vallorbe’s engaging Musée
du Fer et du Chemin de Fer
(Iron and Railway Museum)

the otherworldly Maison
d’Ailleurs (House of Elsewhere)
is of interest to science fiction
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland science fiction, utopian worlds
fans. This museum presents
temporary exhibits related to
and fantasy.
Yverdon’s thermal baths,
the Centre Thermal, is one of
Switzerland’s largest and
most modern spa centres,
with indoor and outdoor pools,
saunas and physiotherapy.
14
Yverdon-les-Bains
Vallorbe
" # Jun–Sep: 11am–5pm
Tue–Sun; Oct–May: 2–5pm
! A4 £ @ n 11 Rue des 15 Château d’Yverdon
! B4 £ @ n 1 Avenue de
Grandes-Forges; www. la Gare; www.yverdonles Tue–Sun
vallorbe-tourisme.ch bainsregion.ch Maison d’Ailleurs
This small industrial town lies Situated at the southwestern " ⌂ 14 Place Pestalozzi
near the Franco-Swiss border. extremity of Lake Neuchâtel, # 2–6pm Tue–Fri, 11am–6pm
From the Middle Ages until Yverdon-les-Bains is Vaud’s Sat & Sun ∑ ailleurs.ch
recently, the town was an iron- second town after Lausanne.
smelting centre. It was also at The Romans built thermal Centre Thermal
Vallorbe that the tunnel under baths here to take advantage ⌂ 22 Avenue les Bains
the Jura was built, thus creating of the hot sulphurous springs. # 8am–10pm Mon–Sat,
the Paris–Istanbul rail route. Yverdon’s town centre overlies 8am–8pm Sun & public
The history of both the the Roman settlement. The hols ∑ cty.ch
Swiss iron and railway indus- focal point is the Château
tries is reflected in the Musée d’Yverdon, a massive castle
du Fer et du Chemin de Fer built by Peter II of Savoy in
(Iron and Railway Museum), the 13th century.
which sits on the bank of the Part of the castle now
River Orbe. houses a museum of local
About 3 km (2 miles) south- history, with a collection of
west of Vallorbe are the Gallo-Roman finds and other
Grottes de Vallorbe. These exhibits. A section of the
are caves with spectacular museum is devoted to the life
stalactites and stalagmites. and work of Johann Heinrich
The caves form a tunnel over Pestalozzi (1746–1827), the
the Orbe’s passage, which Swiss educational reformer
surges through a gorge. who was influenced by the
writings of Jean-Jacques
Musée du Fer et du Rousseau and set up a school
Chemin de Fer for deprived children in the
'" ⌂ 11 Rue des Grandes- castle in 1805.
Forges # Mar–Oct: 2–6pm Place Pestalozzi, opposite
daily (from 10am Mon); Nov– the castle, is dominated by the
Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri Hôtel de Ville, the town hall
∑ museedufer.ch built in 1768–73 on the site of a
former market hall. The col-
Grottes de Vallorbe legiate church on the west side
" # Apr, May, Sep & Oct: of the square dates from 1757.
9:30am–4:30pm daily; Jun– The arched pediment of its The château at
Aug: 9:30am–5:30pm daily Baroque façade features an Estavayer-le-Lac seen
∑ grottesdevallorbe.ch allegory of Faith. To the east, from Lake Neuchâtel
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16 Musée des Grenouilles
Estavayer-le-Lac " ⌂ 13 Rue du Musée Did You Know?
# Mar–Oct: 10am–noon
& 2–5pm Tue–Sun; Nov–
! B4 @ n 16 Rue de l’Hôtel Feb: 2–5pm Sat & Sun The Roman settlement
de Ville; www.estavayer-
payerne.ch ∑ musee desgrenouilles.ch of Aventicum was
named after the
Surrounded on three sides by Helvetian goddess
the canton of Vaud, this small 17 of spring, Aventia.
town on the southern shore
of Lake Neuchâtel lies within Avenches
an enclave of the canton of ! B4 @ n 3 Place de
Fribourg. A popular yachting l’Église; www.avenches.ch The Musée Romain, set within
centre, Estavayer-le-Lac is the amphitheatre, contains an
also a pleasant medieval Originally the capital of the impressive display of Roman
town with arcaded streets. Helveti, the Celtic tribe that artifacts dis covered during
Its focal point is the Château once ruled this part of the excavations at Aventicum.
de Cheneaux, a fine Gothic country, Avenches was con- The exhibits range from
castle that is now the seat quered by the Romans in the items of daily life to statues
of local government. 1st century BC. Named of Roman deities, mosaics
The Musée des Grenouilles Aventicum, it became the and wall paintings.
(Frog Museum), housed in capital of the Roman province Avenches is famous for its
a 15th-century mansion, of Helvetia. Vestiges of the music festivals, including an
contains an eclectic assem- Roman city can still be seen to eclectic rock festival that has
blage of exhibits, including the east of the medieval town drawn international artists for
kitchen implements. It also centre. The most complete of nearly 30 years to perform in
boasts an unusual curiosity, these remains is the amphi- the Roman amphitheatre
namely a collection of 108 theatre, with seating for 6,000. each August.
stuffed frogs (grenouilles) and Other features include the
other creatures arranged in Tornallaz, a tower that is the Musée Romain
poses that parody the social only surviving part of the old " ⌂ Tour de l’Amphithéâtre
life of the mid-19th century. city walls, the forum, the # Apr–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–
The scenes, including dinner baths and a 12-m (40-ft) Sun; Oct, Feb & Mar: 2–5pm
parties and playing pool, were Corinthian column known Tue–Sun; Nov–Jan: 2–5pm
created by François Perrier, an as the Tour du Cigognier. Wed–Sun ∑ aventicum.org
eccentric resident of Estavayer
who served in the Vatican’s
Swiss Guard and who put
together this somewhat
bizarre display in the 1860s.































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18 GREAT VIEW
Grandson Sea of Fog
The elevated terrace
! B4 £ @ n 13 Rue at Ste-Croix enjoys
Haute; www.yverdon
lesbainsregion panoramic views from
Santis, in the Alpstein
Dominated by its medieval massif, to Mont Blanc
on clear days, but even
castle, the town of Grandson
EXPERIENCE Western Switzerland the Swiss Confederation: the 19 Swiss plateau blanketed
on cloudy days it’s
is associated with a momen­
worth the trip here for
tous event in the history of
the chance to see the
defeat of Charles the Bold,
in a thick sea of fog.
Duke of Burgundy, at the
Battle of Grandson on
2 March 1476.
In February 1476, the duke’s
army laid siege to Grandson
Ste-Croix
and its castle, eventually
securing the surrender of the
garrison, which was put to
www.sainte-croix-les-
death. After raising an army
rasses-tourisme.ch
of 18,000, the Confederates ! A4 £ @ n 10 Rue Neuve;
marched on Grandson to Appropriately known as the
wreak revenge on the duke Balcony of the Jura, the town Musée du CIMA
and his army. The Burgundians of Ste­Croix lies at an altitude "' ⌂ 2 Rue de l’Industrie
fled, abandoning their arms of 1,092 m (3,583 ft) and # Guided tours only; see
and horses, as well as the commands a wide view of website for times (free last
ducal treasury. The trove is the Alps, the Swiss Upland Sun of month) ∑ musees.ch
now displayed in Bern’s and the Jura mountains.
Historisches Museum (p77). Since the early 19th century Musée Baud
Built between the 11th and Ste­Croix has been the world "' ⌂ 23 Grand-Rue,
14th centuries, the Château capital of musical­box manu­ L’Auberson # Jul–Sep: 2–5pm
de Grandson rises proudly facture. Two local museums daily; Oct–Jun: 2–5pm Sat &
from the magnificent shores are devoted to this art. In the Sun (guided tours onl)
of Lake Neuchâtel. It contains town centre, the Musée du ∑ museebaud.ch
a model of the battlefield and CIMA (Centre International
a diorama illustrating the de la Méchanique d’Art) has
town’s history from the Middle every mechanical toy and 20
Ages to the present day. In device imaginable, while the
the basement is an auto­ Musée Baud, in the village Neuchâtel
mobile museum with a white of L’Auber son, features music ! B3 £ @ n Hôtel des
Rolls­Royce that belonged to boxes collected by the Baud Postes; www.neuchatel
Greta Garbo and Winston family, as well as singing birds tourisme.ch
Churchill’s Austin Cambridge. and animated figures.
Lying on the northwestern
Château de Grandson shore of Lake Neuchâtel,
" ⌂ Place du Château Neuchâtel is a graceful town
§ 024 445 29 26 # Apr–Oct: with a strikingly Gallic atmo­
8:15am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: sphere. Its main attractions
8:15am–5pm daily are its castle, early Gothic
church (the Église Collégiale)
and Renaissance market hall.
It also has two museums
of note. The Musée d’Art et
d’Histoire displays paintings
by some of the Swiss and
French Impressionists, as
well as fascinating automata.
The town’s other main
An exhibit from the museum, the Laténium,
museum of mechanical Parc et Musée d’Archéologie
devices in Ste-Croix de Neuchâtel, is a large and
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