(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - San Francisco and the Bay Area

A YEAR IN

SAN FRANCISCO










APRIL
International Film Festival (mid-Apr) For
MARCH two weeks there are screenings every day at
the Kabuki and other theaters.
△ St. Patrick’s Day Parade (mid-Mar) Bars △ Cherry Blossom Festival (mid–late Apr)
filled with green-clad patrons watch one of Japantown hosts a celebration of Japanese
America’s oldest parades down Market Street. arts, crafts, food, and performers, and a
San Francisco International Ocean Film colorful parade.
Festival (mid-Mar) Dozens of ocean-themed
films are shown at Fort Mason.









AUGUST
JULY Nihonmachi Street Fair (early Aug) A
△ Fourth of July (Jul 4) Dazzling fireworks, celebration of the Asian and Pacific
local bands, food, arts, and crafts on PIER 39. communities held in Japantown.
The main fireworks extravaganza can be seen △ Outside Lands (mid-Aug) A huge eco-
along the entire waterfront. friendly, activist-themed festival in Golden
San Francisco Playwright’s Festival Gate Park, with music, food, and wine.
(late-Jul) Readings, workshops, lectures, and
performances of new works at the bay-side
Fort Mason center.










NOVEMBER DECEMBER
△ Dia de los Muertos (Nov 2) A Mexican △ Union Square Christmas Windows
celebration marked by a night-time (Nov–Dec) Glittering, animated store windows
procession through the Mission District, and around Union Square.
the Festival of Altars, honoring deceased The Nutcracker (mid–late Dec) The San
family members. Francisco ballet company presents
Illuminate SF (late Nov) Eco-friendly light-art Tchaikovsky’s beloved classic at the War
installations throughout the city. Memorial Opera House.
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DISCOVER A Brief History










A BRIEF 1

HISTORY





Tribes of Native Amercians roamed the misty hills above the sea for about
8,000 years before the arrival of Spanish explorers in 1769. On their heels
came Mexican settlers, soldiers, and droves of gold seekers, giving the area
a boomtown spirit that endures to this day.

The Early Years 1 A depiction of
Although European explorers sailed along the California coast San Francisco in the
in the 16th century, they all went past the Golden Gate strait mid-19th century.
without noticing the bay beyond it. It was not until 1769 that a 2 The roadway being
party of Spanish explorers became the first non-natives to lay installed at the Golden
eyes on the bay. The Spanish quickly established missions and Gate Bridge in 1937.
military forts, securing their foothold in the New World. Having 3 California Street, 1915.
broken away from Spain in 1821, Mexico opened California to
foreign trade for the first time. In 1848 Alta California became a 4 City Hall, built in 1916
after the original was
US state, and soon cries of “Gold!” rang out in the foothills, as destroyed in 1906.
miners rushed to the nearby Sierras to seek their fortunes.
Timeline of events
1776 1848 1870
Mission San Francisco Treaty of Hildalgo ends the Golden Gate
de Asís is founded by a Mexican–American War, Park launches
Franciscan friar ceding California to the US the westward
expansion of
1849 the city

1769 Gold is discovered in the
Sierras, setting off the
San Francisco Bay is Gold Rush; “‘49ers”
discovered by a Spanish flock to settlements by
expedition led by the bay, which swell to
Gaspar de Portola boomtowns
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3 4


A Growing City
The riches of the Gold Rush attracted entrepreneurs from ROBBER BARONS
around the world, turning the city into an international hub of In the late 1800s, the
finance and innovation. Undaunted by a massive earthquake “Big Four” railroad and
and fire in 1906 that destroyed much of the prosperous Gold Rush tycoons –
Victorian-era city, the ambitious residents rebuilt San Francisco; Huntington, Stanford,
invented cable cars to conquer the steep hills; hosted the Hopkins, and Crocker –
Panama-Pacific Exposition; and constructed bridges to built palaces on Nob
connect the growing towns of the bay. Hill, in a city based on
the promise of sudden
The Golden Age wealth. The founder of
Neither World War I, Prohibition nor the Great Stanford University
Depression could dampen the city’s energy (p127), Leland
in the early 20th century, and the 1920s saw Stanford drove the
the creation of major arts venues and civic solid-gold “Last
buildings. World War II brought industrial Spike,” completing
investment in the form of shipyards at the First Trans-
Richmond and Sausalito. Fort Mason was the continental
main supply base for the Pacific theater, and Railroad.
shipped out more than 1.5 million soldiers.



1906 1936
Measuring 8.25 on Spanning the bay, the
the Richter scale, an San Francisco–Oakland
earthquake and a Bay Bridge opens
massive fire reduce
much of San
Francisco to rubble 1915
1873 Panama-Pacific
First cable car is Exposition signals
tested on Clay Street the city’s revival and
the completion of
the Panama Canal
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1 2

Fabulous Fifties amd Swinging Sixties
The anti-conformist “Beat Generation” kicked off an era
of experimental art, recreational drugs, sexual freedom,
and progressive ideas. During the Summer of Love in 1967,
psychedelic rock music filled the Fillmore Auditorium and
blasted Jefferson Airplane and the Grateful Dead into
international fame. But along with the flower power there
was unrest, as young people rebelled against wars and
injustice. In 1969, Indians of All Tribes occupied Alcatraz to
publicize Indian grievances, and througout the 1960s many
San Franciscans protested against the war in Vietnam.
Highs and Lows
Although it was controversial in 1972, the 48-story, glass-and-
aluminum Transamerica Pyramid ushered in an era of bold city
development: a forest of gleaming skyscrapers, the BART
subway connecting the towns of the Bay Area, and the massive
Moscone Convention Center. Urban renewal saw blighted areas Skyscrapers rising above
of the city torn down in favor of new developments, including Yerba Buena Gardens in
the vast Embarcadero Center and the arts-and-entertainment downtown San Francisco


Timeline of events
1937 1967
Golden Gate Bridge During the Summer of Love,
opens, connecting San 100,000 people flock to the
Francisco with Marin city to celebrate peace and
County to the north free love
1972
The Golden Gate National
Recreation Area is
1945 established in the city
The United Nations is and the Marin Headlands
founded at the San
Francisco Conference
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hub of Yerba Buena Gardens in the former SOMA warehouse 1 A 1967 poster for a
district. But whilst the city skyline rose, the population suffered concert at the Fillmore
terrible losses when the mayor of San Francisco – George auditorium.
Moscone – and political activist Harvey Milk(p46) were 2 Transamerica Pyramid.
murdered at City Hall in 1978. Further tragedies occurred 3 A baseball game at
during the AIDS epidemic of the 1980s, the Loma Pieta AT&T Park.
earthquake of 1989, and during a terrible fire that blazed across
the Oakland hills in 1992. 4 The San Francisco
Pride parade.
San Francisco Today
Following the ups and downs of the dot-com boom at the
turn of the century, San Francisco is once again an important Did You Know?
international center of innovation and technology, with even
more major companies thriving in Silicon Valley to the south. In 1961, city resident José
This new boom has made cities in the Bay Area some of the Julio Sarria became the
most expensive places to live in the US, but the high standard nation’s first openly gay
of living, and vibrant, progressive culture nevertheless attract candidate for
more people every day. Museums and urban developments public office.
continue to open, with the new Salesforce Tower exemplifying
a 21st-century boomtown spirit.




1978 2018
Harvey Milk, the first The Salesforce
openly gay elected Tower, the second
official in California, tallest building west
is assassinated of the Mississippi
River, is opened
1989
The Loma Prieta 2014
earthquake hits during San Francisco Giants win
a World Series baseball the World Series for the
game, killing dozens in third time in five years
the Bay Area
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Clint Eastwood as the
iconic titular character
of Dirty Harry (1971)
A BRIEF HISTORY

ON SCREEN






Whether you retrace Clint Eastwood’s steps in Dirty Harry, or relive
memories of Robin Williams in Mrs. Doubtfire, movie and TV lovers of
all ages will find a trip to San Francisco is like stepping into a film set.

While San Francisco doesn’t turn out as many
feature films as its high-profile neighbor, Los
Angeles, it has nevertheless played a luminous
supporting character in many of the world’s
most loved films. From classics like Alfred
Hitchcock’s Vertigo (1958), to more recent
releases such as the Oscar-winning biopic Milk
(2008), the city has given the big screen some
of its most iconic sights and interesting tales.
The city has also been the home of many
famous TV characters, including the Tanners of James Stewart and Kim Novak in Alfred
Full House and a cartoon version of Jackie Chan. Hitchcock’s Vertigo (1958)


On Screen Guide 1941 1958 1968 1971 1987- Sister Act
1992
1995
Bullitt
Vertigo
Dirty Harry
Full House
The Maltese
1978
Falcon
Invasion of the 1986
Body Snatchers
1979 Star Trek IV:
The Voyage
Escape from Home
Alcatraz
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San Francisco Alcatraz
Bay Island
Golden Gate
Bridge
Fort FISHERMAN’S
Mason WHARF FILMING LOCATIONS
MARINA
PRESIDIO PARKWAY
LOMBARD ST RUSSIAN THE EMBARCADERO 1 Vertigo, Fort Point
COW
HOLLOW HILL COLUMBUS
BROADWAY VAN NESS AVENUE 2 Dirty Harry, Saints Peter
AVENUE
Presidio PACIFIC STOCKTON ST DOWN- and Paul Church
DIVISADERO ST
HEIGHTS TAYLOR ST TOWN 3 Escape from Alcatraz,
CALIFORNIA ST GEARY BLVD HYDE ST Alcatraz Island
RICHMOND FILLMORE ST CIVIC MARKET ST SOMA 3RD ST
GEARY BOULEVARD CENTER 4 Full House, 1709
TURK ST FOLSOM ST Broderick Street, Pacific
FULTON ST HAYES HARRISON ST Heights
HAYES ST VALLEY 11TH ST
6TH ST
HAIGHT MARKET ST 5 Sister Act, St. Paul’s
Golden Gate Park STANYAN ST ASHBURY Catholic Church, 221 Valley
LINCOLN WAY 16TH ST St, Noe Valley
MISSION 6 Mrs. Doubtfire, 2640
Mount POTRERO
Sutro POTRERO ST Steiner Street, Pacific
Heights
Twin
FOREST Peaks NOE 7 The Rock,
MISSION ST
CASTRO ST
DOLORES ST
HILL VALLEY CESAR CHAVEZ ST Alcatraz Island
0 kilometers 2 N 8 Zodiac, Transamerica
Pyramid
0 miles 2
9 Milk, City Hall
FULL HOUSE
The opening credits of the iconic
American sitcom Full House
show a Victorian home that is
not one of the Painted Ladies
(p168), as many viewers believe.
The facade of the Tanner family
home actually belongs to 1709
Broderick Street in Pacific
Heights. The show’s ongoing
sequel, Fuller House, is also set
here. The creator of the series,
Jeff Franklin, bought the
property in 2016, driven by
the same sentimentality that
lures fans here every day. Robin Williams masquerading
as a nanny in Mrs. Doubtfire (1993)
1992 1996 2002- 2008
Sister Act The Rock 2009 Milk
Monk
1993
Mrs Doubtfire
2018

2001 2003- Venom
The Princess 2007
Diaries That’s So Raven
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EXPERIENCE
















































Golden Gate Bridge towering above the Bay



















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Presidio and
the Richmond District .......................60
Pacific Heights
and the Marina ........................................72
Fisherman’s Wharf
and North Beach ...................................90

Chinatown and Nob Hill ................... 114

Downtown and SOMA ..................... 132
Civic Center
and Hayes Valley .................................158
Haight Ashbury
and the Mission .....................................172
Golden Gate Park
and Land’s End ......................................188

The Bay Area ........................................ 208









































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The central rotunda at the Palace of Fine Arts









































PRESIDIO AND THE

RICHMOND DISTRICT



Despite being neighbors, the Presidio area
and the Richmond district have very different
histories. The Presidio was originally a Spanish
fort established in 1776, which fell under Mexican
control when the nation became independent from
Spain in 1821. It was taken over again by the US
military during the Mexican-American War (1846–
48), and continued to play a role in American
military endeavors in the Pacific until 1995.
The Richmond district, meanwhile, has been
a green, tranquil, and sophisticated neighbor hood
since the mid-19th century, and has long had a
highly multicultural population of Irish-, Russian-
and particularly Chinese-Americans.
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Bridge Bridge 0 yards 0 yards 500 500
Fort PointFort Point
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STOR EY AVENUE
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Family Museum
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WASHINGTON
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CLARK
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Baker Beach Baker Beach PE R SH I N G PE R SH I N G WASHINGTON WASHINGTON BOUL EVARD BOUL EVARD AVENUE STR EET AVENUE STR EET BOULEVARD BOULEVARD
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STILLWELL RD D
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GIBSON ROAD S T S T RD CAULFIELD RD CAULFIELD CourseCourse A V E N U E A V E N U E S T R E E T Goslinsky Goslinsky S T R E E T S T R E E T B STREET STREET
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BOWL E Y
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S T R E
S E A C L I F F A V E N U E A V E N U E
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3 1 S T
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A V E N U E
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S T R E E T
C L E M E N T E N T S T R E E T E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U A V E N U E E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E BOULEVARD E A V E N U A V E N U E Street Street A V E N U E A V E N U E A V
E
C L E M
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B O U L
A V E N U E BOULEVARD
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G
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
Cathedral Cathedral B O U L E V A R D E V A R D S T A N YAN S T A N YAN CIVIC CENTERCIVIC CENTER M A S O N I C M A S O N I C
A V E
A V E
B O U L
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
G E A R Y G E A R Y F U N S T O N F U N S T O N 8 T H 8 T H AND HAYES VALLEYAND HAYES VALLEY
S T R E E T
A N Z A A N Z A S T R E E T p158 p158
GOLDEN GATE PARKGOLDEN GATE PARK ARGUELLO BLVD ARGUELLO BLVD A V E N U E A V E N U E
S T R E E T
A N Z A A N Z A S T R E E T S T R E E T AND LAND’S ENDAND LAND’S END A V E N U E A V E N U E S T R E E T S T R E E T T U R K T U R K S T R E E T
p188 p188 A V E N U E A V E N U E
062-063_EW_San_Francisco.indd 63 30/11/2018 12:06

The Golden Gate
Bridge against the
San Francisco skyline



Jan 5, Dec 1933
1933 ▼ Repairs begin
Construction after the same
officially trestle is damaged
begins in a storm

Timeline Aug 11, 1930 Feb 26, 1933 Aug 14,
1933
▲ The official ground-
▲ After decades of debate
and deliberation a
breaking ceremony takes
construction permit is places – a festive event ▲ Part of the
access trestle
finally issued for a with over 100,000 is destroyed by
suspension bridge over attendees eager to a ship
the Golden Gate strait celebrate the long-
awaited bridge project
64

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Must See








































1 -=
GOLDEN

GATE BRIDGE


 E1 @ 2, 28, 76 # Times vary, check website ∑ goldengate.org
You may expect such a famous city landmark to feel familiar, but
visitors to the Golden Gate Bridge are sure to find themselves in awe
when they see it in person. Whether you journey across or just view it
from the shore, this iconic bridge is sure to capture your imagination
and get your fingers itching for a stunning photo of your own.

Named for the entrance to the Strait of San Francisco Bay
called “Golden Gate” by John Fremont in 1846, the bridge INSIDER TIP
opened in 1937, connecting San Francisco with Marin County Before You Go
(p216). Breathtaking views are offered from this world-famous Check the bridge’s
land mark, which has six lanes for vehicles, plus a pedestrian website for a few top
and bicycle path. It is the world’s ninth-largest suspension tips so you don’t get
bridge but it was the world’s longest one when it was built. caught out on your visit
Cars driving southbound from the Marin County side toward (goldengatebridge.org/
San Francisco must pay a toll, and pedestrians and cyclists are bikesbridge/bikes.php).
only permitted on the eastern sidewalk.
65



064-067_EW_San_Francisco.indd 65 30/11/2018 16:43

The Opening of the Bridge
The bridge that most people said could never
be built was completed on time and under
budget in the midst of the Great Depression,
under chief engineer, Josph Strauss. On May 27,
1937, Golden Gate Bridge opened only for
pedestrians, and an estimated 200,000 people
came to be the first to walk across.
The roadway opened the next
EXPERIENCE Presidio and the Richmond District cross the bridge.
day, and an official convoy
of Cadillacs and
Packards were the
first vehicles to



The first
pedestrians on
the Golden
Gate Bridge,
May 27, 1937


THE BRIDGE
IN FIGURES
Crossing the Bridge
Every year approximately
41 million vehicles cross the
bridge (about 112,000 a day).
Incredible Cables
The two great 7,650-ft (2,332-m) main
cables are more than 3 ft (1 m) thick, and
contain 80,000 miles (128,744 km) of
steel wire, enough to encircle the earth
at the equator three times.
The Concrete
The volume of concrete poured into the
piers and anchorages during the bridge’s
construction would be enough to lay a
5 ft (1.5 m) wide sidewalk stretching
from New York to San Francisco.
Built to Last
The bridge was designed to withstand Jun
100 mph (160 km/h) winds. Each pier 1935
has to withstand a tidal flow of more
than 60 mph (97 km/h), while The south tower
supporting a 22,000-ton steel tower. (closest to San
Francisco) is
completed

Timeline Jun 1934
▲ The north tower (near
the Marin County end of
the Bridge ) is completed,
although some records
claim it was finished
in November



66



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TOP VIEWS OF
3 THE BRIDGE

Baker Beach
The city’s biggest and
most popular beach isn’t
ideal for swimming, but
it makes up for it with
stunning views (p69).
Fort Point
The northernmost point
of San Francisco offers
angles that really
highlight the incredible
scale of the bridge (p68).
Vista Point
Head to this popular
spot on Marin County
side to get a photo of
Golden Gate Bridge
with a San Francisco
backdrop (p220).

















Photographers setting up
to capture the Golden Gate
Bridge from Baker Beach

Apr 27,
1937
▼ Joseph B. Strauss
leads dignitaries to
the center span with
a final gold rivet
Jun 1936 Feb 17, May 27, 1937
▲ With the last suspender 1937 ▲ Opening day. Every siren
rope in place since March, 10 workers are and church bell in San
work begins on the killed when a Francisco and Marin sounds
roadway that will safety net fails in unison as part of a huge
connect San Francisco celebration. The following
and Marin County day, President Roosevelt
holds a dedication
ceremony via telegraph
67



064-067_EW_San_Francisco.indd 67 30/11/2018 16:44

EXPERIENCE MORE



2 is the sole survivor of the
many grandiose monuments
Fort Point and Crissy Did You Know? built as part of the 1915
Field A popular walking path Panama-Pacific International
Exposition, a world fair celeb-
EXPERIENCE Presidio and the Richmond District Completed by the US Army in Park Service rangers in Civil theater, music, and dance.
 E1 ⌂ Marine Drive
rating San Francisco’s recov-
winds through Crissy
§ 556-1693 # 10am–5pm
Field from the Marina
ery after the 1906 earthquake.
Thu–Tue (Fri–Sun only
to Fort Point.
The building has been re-
in winter)
stored and is now a space for
1861, this fort was built partly
to protect San Francisco Bay
from any attack, and partly to
4
defend ships carrying gold
War costume conduct guided
Presidio Officers’ Club
tours. A tidal marsh once
from California mines. It is the
most prominent of the many
covered the area called Crissy
 G3 ⌂ 50 Moraga Ave
Field. After two centuries of
fortifi cations constructed on
@ 29, 43 # 10am–5pm Tue–
military use, the Field was
the coast, and is a classic
Sun ∑ presidio.gov
example of a pre-Civil War
transformed into a waterfront
brick fortress. The building
education. The Crissy Field
the parade grounds of the
soon became obsolete, as its
Presidio and the 19th-century
Center offers a rich array of
10-ft- (3-m-) thick brick walls
programs, including many
could not stand up to power-
barracks. Built in the Spanish
Mission style (p36) in the
ful modern weaponry. It was
geared toward kids, from
1930s, it incor po rates the
wildlife treks to kite-flying.
closed in 1900, never having park for recreation and The Officers’ Club overlooks
come under attack. adobe (sun-dried brick)
The brickwork vaulting is remains of the original 18th-
unusual for San Francisco, 3 century Spanish fort and
where the ready availability hosts events and exhibits
of good timber encouraged Palace of Fine Arts on California history.
wood-frame constructions.  H2 ⌂ 3601 Lyon St,
This may have saved the fort Marina District @ 22, 28,
from collapse in the 1906 29, 30, 41, 43, 45 # For 5
earthquake. It was nearly events only ∑ palaceof
demolished in the 1930s to finearts.com Baker Beach
make way for the Golden Gate  D3 # Dawn–dusk daily
Bridge, but it survived and is One of San Francisco’s most
now a good place from which prominent pieces of archi- Baker Beach is the largest and
to view the bridge. National tecture, the Palace of Fine Arts most popular stretch of sand
The grandiose Palace of
Fine Arts, an events and
performance space
68
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in the city and is often
crowded with sunbathers.
The chilly water and strong
currents make it a dangerous
place to swim, but it is a fine
place to go for a walk. Fishing
is also good here. There are
forests of pine and cypress on
the bluffs above the beach,
where visitors can explore
Battery Chamberlin, a gun
emplacement from 1904. On
the first weekend of each
month rangers show the
“disappearing gun,” a heavy
rifle that can be lowered
behind a thick wall to protect
it from enemy fire, and then
raised again to be fired.

Mickey Mouse memorabilia
6 and exhibits at the Walt
Disney Family Museum
Holy Virgin Cathedral
 D5 ⌂ 6210 Geary Blvd
@ 29, 38, 38L # 8am–6pm denominations, the services 7 "
daily ∑ sfsobor.com here are conducted with the The Walt Disney
congregation standing, so
Shining gold onion-shaped there are no pews or seats. Family Museum
domes crown the Russian The cathedral and the many  G2 ⌂ 104 Montgomery
Orthodox Holy Virgin Russian-owned businesses St @ 28, 43 # 10am–6pm
Cathedral of the Russian nearby, such as the lively, Wed–Mon ∑ waltdisney.org
Church in Exile, a startling long-established Russian
landmark in the suburban Renaissance restaurant, are Opened in 2009, this superb
Richmond District. It was situated at the heart of museum documents the life
designed by Oleg N. Ivanitsky San Francisco’s extensive and amazing career of Walt
and built in the early 1960s. In Russian community. This has Disney (1901–66). A must for
contrast to those of many flourished since the 1820s, Disney fans, the museum
other Christian but expanded greatly when has ten interactive galleries
more immigrants arrived after with film clips, storyboards,
the Russian Revolution of photographs, movies, and
1917, and especially in the late original artwork, such as early
1950s and late 1980s. drawings of Mickey Mouse.



























068-069_EW_San_Francisco.indd 69 30/11/2018 16:44

Russian, and French
establish ments, among many The steeply descending Lyon
Did You Know? others, also flourish here. The Street Steps, with their
street stretches from Arguello beautiful views over the bay
Presidio is the Spanish Boulevard to the north–south
word for a fortified cross-streets which are known
military base, built to as “The Avenues.”
protect against pirates 9 10 '
Temple Emanu-El
and other enemies.
EXPERIENCE Presidio and the Richmond District 8  E3 n 210 Lincoln Blvd, ∑ emanuelsf.org
 G4 ⌂ Lake St and
Arguello Blvd @ 1, 2, 33,
Presidio
38 # By appoint ment
on the Main Post; Open
Clement Street
After World War I hundreds of
10am–5pm daily
Jews from Russia and Eastern
 F5 @ 2, 29, 44
∑ presidio.gov
Europe moved into the
This is the bustling main
The Presidio is a national park
Richmond District and built
thoroughfare of the other-
and former military fort. The
religious centers, many of
wise rather sleepy Richmond
site has a long military history. which are still major land-
It has played a key role in San
District. Book stores and small
marks. Among these is the
boutiques flourish here, and
Francisco’s growth, and has
Temple Emanu-El, its dome
inspired by that of the 6th-
been occupied longer than
the inhabitants of the neigh-
borhood meet together in a
lively mix of bars, fast-food
Remnants of its military past,
Istanbul. The temple is a
including barracks, can be
majestic piece of archi tecture.
cafés, and ethnic restaurants.
Most of these are patronized
seen everywhere. There are
It was built in 1925 for the
24 miles (39 km) of hiking
city’s longest-estab lished
more by locals than by
trails, cycle paths, and
tourists. Clement Street is any other part of the city. century Santa Sophia in
Jewish congregation (which
surrounded by a district beaches. A free shuttle, the was founded in 1850). The
known as New Chinatown, PresidiGo bus, operates within architect was Arthur Brown,
home to more than one third the park, stopping at over 40 who also designed San
of the Chinese population of destinations. Golden Gate Francisco’s City Hall (p166).
San Francisco. As a result, Bridge crosses the bay from With its red-tiled dome,
some of the city’s best the northwest corner of the Emanu-El is a Californian
Chinese restaurants can be Presidio. The Visitor Center architectural hybrid, comb-
found here, and the emphasis is a good place to get your ining the local Mission style
in general is on East Asian bearings and find out what (p36) with Byzantine orna-
cuisine. However, the area is events are on; there are ment and Romanesque
known for the diversity of its regular ranger walks, live arcades. Its interior, which
restaurants, and Peruvian, music, and family activities. holds nearly 2,000 worshippers,
Former military housing
in the Presidio, with the
Golden Gate Bridge beyond
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is especially fine when bright require advanced reservations
sunlight shines through the 12 "'= and are available every
earth-toned stained glass. Arion Press Thursday at 3:30pm.
 F4 ⌂ 1802 Hays St
@ 1, 2, 28, 38 # 10am–5pm
11 Mon–Fri ∑ arionpress.com 13
Lyon Street Steps Considered one of the nation’s Letterman Digital
leading publishers of fine- Arts Center
 J3 ⌂ Lyon St and
Broadway @ 3, 41, 43, 45 press books, Arion Press  H3 ⌂ Chestnut St and
produces highly sought-after Lyon St @ 28, 43 # 9am–
A real gem hiding in plain books, prized by collectors for 5pm Mon–Fri ∑ presidio.
sight, the Lyon Street Steps their quality and rarity. With gov/places/letterman-
consist of 332 steps and offer titles ranging from classic digital-arts-center
jaw-dropping views of the city literature to commissioned
and the bay for those who new works, the texts that the A pilgrimage spot for Star
brave the climb. Given their Press creates are famous for Wars fans, the Letterman
location within the Richmond their sense of erudition and Digital Arts Center was
neighborhood, they can easily diversity. Its authors include founded by filmmaker George
be worked into walks Ovid, Shakespeare, Laurence Lucas and the Presidio Trust in
extending from the Presidio Sterne, Herman Melville, Emily 2005 to house Industrial Light
to Pacific Heights, or from the Dickinson, Gertrude Stein, and Magic, Lucasfilm Ltd, and
Panhandle to the Marina. As Sigmund Freud, Allen other companies. The
you climb (or even better, Ginsberg, and David Mamet. sprawling campus includes
descend) the steep steps, Visiting their free gallery will landscaped grounds, a natural
you’ll see the Presidio forests give you a sense of San lagoon, and photo-worthy
to the west and Billionaires Francisco’s contribution to views of the Golden Gate
Row to the east. Because of literary history, as well as the Bridge and the Palace of Fine
the area’s beauty, the homes city’s tradition of producing Arts. Aside from the beautiful
in this area tend to be owned high-quality handmade items. views, the other draw is the
by the seriously wealthy. Situated in the gorgeous life-size statue of Yoda, the
Residents include United Presidio, the gallery is well wise Star Wars character. Take
State Senator Dianne Feinstein, worth a visit in between a peek in the lobby to see
oil heir Gordon Getty, and touring Outer Richmond and more life-size figures and
Oracle founder Larry Ellison. Baker Beach. Guided tours other movie memorabilia.
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The Wave Organ, designed by Peter Richards and George Gonzalez









































PACIFIC HEIGHTS

AND THE MARINA



Pacific Heights is an exclusive neighborhood that
clings to a hillside rising 300 ft (100 m) above the
city. The area was developed in the 1880s, after
cable cars linking it with the city center were
introduced. With its magnificent views, it quickly
became a desirable place to live, and elegant
Victorian houses still line its tree-shaded streets.
To the north of Broadway, the streets drop
steeply to the Marina District, ending at San
Francisco Bay. The houses here are built on a once-
marshy site that was cleared and drained for the
Panama-Pacific Exposition, and the ambience is
that of a wealthy seaside resort, with boutiques,
lively cafés, and two prestigious yacht clubs.
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PACIFIC HEIGHTS 0 meters 0 meters 500 N 500 N
AND THE MARINA San F r ancisc oSan F r ancisc o 0 yards 0 yards 500 500
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Herbst Herbst
Wave Organ
1 Fort Mason Wave Organ Pavilion Pavilion
2 Japantown Museo Museo JEFFERSON ST
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U N I O N U N I O N S T E I N E R S T E I N E ST R E E T ST R E E T AND NOB HILLAND NOB HILL


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0 meters 0 meters 500 N 500 N
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EXPERIENCE Pacific Heights and the Marina
















1 \-=
FORT MASON


 E1 ⌂ 2 Marina Blvd @ 22, 28, 30, 30X, 43, 49 # 9am–5pm Mon–Fri
∑ fortmason.org
Once a military base, Fort Mason is now a cool and vibrant arts
and culture center, and a definite hot-spot for foodies.
Fort Mason reflects the military history of San hospital – which serves as a Visitor Center and
Francisco. The original buildings were private headquarters of the Golden Gate National
houses, erected in the late 1850s, which were Recreation Area (GGNRA) – are both open to
confiscated by the US Government when the the public. Fort Mason has some of the city’s
site was taken over by the US army during finest views, looking across the bay toward
the American Civil War (1861–5). The Fort Golden Gate Bridge and Alcatraz.
remained an army command post until the
1890s, and also housed refugees left homeless Fort Mason Center
by the 1906 earthquake. During World War II, for Arts and Culture
Fort Mason Army Base was the point of Part of the Fort is now occupied by one of San
embarkation for around 1.6 million soldiers. Francisco’s prime art complexes. Fort Mason
Fort Mason was converted to peaceful use Center for Arts and Culture is home to over 25
in 1972. The original barracks and the old cultural organizations, art galleries, museums,
and theaters. Particular highlights include the
SFMOMA Artists Gallery, which offers art works
from Northern Californian artists for sale or
rent, while Italian and Italian-American artists
display their works at the Museo Italo
Americano. The Mexican Museum has a unique
collection of over 12,000 objects representing
thousands of years of Mexican history. Among
the many places to eat at Fort Mason Center
is Greens, one of the city’s best vegetarian
restaurants. Hours vary for each venue, so
check the website to learn more about each
one. Thousands of events occur at Fort Mason
Guests at a fine art exhibition in the Fort Center every year, as well, so be sure to check
Mason Center for Arts and Culture the events calendar during your trip.
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Must See






























The buildings of the Fort
Mason complex on the
piers in the Marina District



International
Herbst Museo Italo
Pavilion Americano Youth Hostel
Festival
Pavilion
SFMOMA Fort Mason
Artists Magic General’s
Gallery Theatre Residence



Greens
Restaurant
BATS Improv at
the Bayfront
Theater
Chapel
City College of
San Francisco
Art Campus Golden Gate
National
San Francisco Recreation
Children’s Art Center Area HQ
Young Performers Theatre
The Mexican Museum
Great
Maritime Library Meadow

77



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2 \-=
JAPANTOWN



 E4 @ 2, 3, 22, 31, 38 ∑ sfjapantown.org
It may be smaller than San Francisco’s famous Chinatown, but visitors
should make sure not to overlook the city’s Japantown district. Full
EXPERIENCE Pacific Heights and the Marina Japantown has a full calendar of cultural three Japantowns in
of fun shops, great food, and cultural experiences, the buildings of
the Peace Plaza make you feek like you’ve stepped off the streets of
San Francisco and right into urban Japan.


events from spring to fall, and even without
any traditional festivals in winter it’s an
unmissable place for foodies, shoppers, and
Did You Know?
Japanophiles at any time of year. Many of the
restaurants come complete with plastic food
This is one of only
displays in the window, just like you’d find in
Tokyo. And shops selling traditional clothing
and homeware are interspersed with modern
in California.
stores selling anime merchandise, beauty
products, and all things kawaii (cute).
Historic Japantown the US, all of which are
At one time in the early 20th century, this area
had one of the largest populations of Japanese
people in the western world. Also known as
“Nihonmachi” (the Japanese translation for
“Japantown”), the area was the heart of the
local Japanese-American community, and
had the look and feel of downtown Tokyo.
That changed when those of Japanese birth
or descent were tragically interned during
World War II. It wasn’t until the 1960s when
the area regained some of its historic
character, that the original Japan Center
shopping complex was built as part of a
scheme to revitalize the Fillmore District. At
the heart of the com plex, and centered upon
a five-tiered, 75-ft (22-m) concrete pagoda, is
the Peace Pagoda Garden.

















Ceramic bowls decorated with traditional
designs, on sale in Japantown
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Must See


Spring
Festival Seasons Calendar in April, along with festive food
The Japanese tradition of
▼
cherry blossom is enjoyed here
and perform ances


























Summer
▲ The Anime Festival and
Cosplay takes place in July,
when fans of Japanese
animation dress up like their
favourite characters













Fall
▲ In September the Sumo
Champions Exhibit takes place
outside in the Peace Plaza


The Peace Pagoda at the
heart of Japantown, a
gift from San Francisco’s
sister city, Osaka
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078-079_EW_San_Francisco.indd 79 30/11/2018 12:06

EXPERIENCE Pacific Heights and the Marina Fillmore Street, with its












attractive array of boutiques,
cafés, and restaurants

EXPERIENCE MORE



3 4 stone steps (offering great
city views) rising up from
Spreckels Mansion Fillmore Street Clay Street on the south side
of the park. These steps may
 L3 ⌂ 2080 Washington  K4 @ 1, 2, 3, 10, 22, 24
St @ 1, 3, 10, 47, 49 be familiar from films –
¢ To the public Fillmore Street survived the Barbra Streisand drove down
devastating 1906 earthquake them in What’s Up, Doc? From
Dominating the north side of virtually intact, and for the north side you can see
Lafayette Park, this imposing several years afterward several splendid mansions,
Beaux Arts mansion (p36) is served as the civic heart including Gibbs House at
sometimes known as the of the city. Government 2622 Jackson Street, built by
“Parthenon of the West” on departments, as well as Willis Polk in 1894. Covering
account of its Classical-style private businesses, were nearly 12 acres (4.8 ha), Alta
columned facade. It was built housed in the district’s shops, Plaza was the site of a quarry
in 1912 for the flamboyant homes, and even churches. when it was purchased by
Alma de Bretteville Spreckels Today the main commercial the city of San Francisco in
and her husband Adolph, district of Pacific Heights is 1877. It was another 20 years,
who was heir to the sugar located here, from Jackson however, before landscaping
fortune of Claus Spreckels. Street to Japantown around works began. The area
Alma filled the house with Bush Street. This area boasts served as a campsite for
antiques bought on trips to an abundance of bookstores, victims of the 1906
Europe and was renowned restaurants, and boutiques. earthquake and fire.
for her lavish parties. The
house is now owned by
novelist Danielle Steel. It 5
occupies a block on Octavia Did You Know?
Street, which is landscaped Alta Plaza Park
in the style of Lombard Street  K4 @ 1, 3, 10, 22, 24 Trinity Episcopal
(p103). The mansion’s architect Church is the second
was George Applegarth, who Situated in the center of oldest congregation in
in 1916 design ed the Legion Pacific Heights, Alta Plaza is a the city of San
of Honor (p196) to house Alma beautifully landscaped urban Francisco.
Spreckels’ burgeoning park, where San Francisco’s
collection of fine art. elite come to relax. There are
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6 7
Lafayette Park Trinity + St. Peter’s
Episcopal Church
 L4 @ 1, 10, 47, 49
 L4 ⌂ 1620 Gough St @ 1, DRINK
One of San Francisco’s 2, 3, 10, 19, 22, 38, 47, 49
prettiest hilltop gardens, ∑ trinity-stpeters.org
this is a leafy green haven of The Snug
pine and euca lyptus trees, This dramatic edifice is Classic cocktails are
although its present tranquil- modeled on Durham given a fresh update
lity belies its turbulent history. Cathedral in northern in this bright, stylish
Along with Alta Plaza Park and England, arguably one of the spot. The hip clientele
Alamo Square, the land was finest examples of Norman lounge on comfy
set aside in 1855 as city- architecture in the world. The leather sofas to sip
owned open space, but oldest Episcopal church on raspberry negronis or
squatters and others, includ- the Pacific coast, Trinity dates bourbon sours with
ing a former City Attorney, laid back to 1849 and Sunday Chinese plum.
claim to the land and built services are still held in the  K4 ⌂ 2301 Fillmore St
houses on it. The largest of main sanctuary. Its colorful ∑ thesnugsf.com
the houses stood at the center stained-glass windows were
of the hilltop park until 1936, designed by a pupil of John The Tipsy Pig
as the squatter who had built La Farge, a leading figure in Low lighting and
it refused to move. It was the New York art scene during polished wood surfaces
finally torn down after the city the late 19th century. The give this bar a warm,
authorities agreed to swap it high altar displays the 1894 old-fashioned feel, but
for land on Gough Street. jewel-encrusted Trinity Cross, the cocktails – shaken
Steep stairways now lead to presented as a gift on Trinity and muddled with fresh
the park’s summit and its Sunday by the women of the fruit, herbs, and house-
delightful views. In the surr- parish. The church also has a made syrups – are
ounding streets are scores of strong musical tradition; it thoroughly modern.
palatial buildings, with partic- has a fine pipe organ and is  J2 ⌂ 2231 Chestnut St
ularly ornate examples along home to the award- ∑ thetipsypigsf.com
Broadway, Jackson Street, and winning male-voice
Pacific Avenue going east– choir Chanticleer, who
west, and on Gough and regularly perform
Octavia streets north–south. here.

























The grand and historic
Trinity + St. Peter’s
Episcopal Church
81



080-081_EW_San_Francisco.indd 81 30/11/2018 16:44

steeply sloping roof, the walls Other architectural features
are faced with “shingles,” include highly decorated
Did You Know? which are strips of redwood Moorish arches, medieval
nailed in over lapping rows parapets and elements
Frank Pixley, editor of onto the building’s wooden of Queen Anne (p36) and
the Argonaut, donated frame. Part of the building Colonial styles. It was built in
the lot on which the was remodeled in the 1950s,
Church of St Mary the when the main entrance was SHOP
Virgin was built.
moved from Steiner Street
EXPERIENCE Pacific Heights and the Marina 8 9 handcrafted jewellery
to the opposite end of the
building; however, the fabric
has been well preserved.
Anomie
Church of St. Mary
Stand-out fashion,
the Virgin
Vedanta Temple
and quirky homeware
 K3 ⌂ 2325 Union St
 K3 ⌂ 2963 Webster St
@ 22, 41, 45 # 8:30am–
line the shelves of this
boutique, with a focus
4pm Mon–Thu ∑ smvsf.org
@ 22, 41, 45 ¢ To the
on items designed and
public ∑ sfvedanta.org
Evoking the more rural early
made in the city
One of the bay area’s most
19th-century years of Cow
Hollow, this rustic, wooden-
# 11am–7pm daily
shingled Episcopal church
Vedanta Temple is an eclectic
∑ shopanomie.com
stands at the west end of
combination of a host of
divergent decorative trad-
what is now the busy Union
Ginger Elizabeth
itions. The roof is crowned
Street shopping area. unusual structures, the  K3 ⌂ 2149 Union St
One of the natural springs by a rusty red onion-shaped Chocolates
that provided water for the dome similar to those seen on The sugar-pink walls
Cow Hollow dairy herds still Russian Orthodox churches. It and embellished
bubbles up in the grounds, also has a tower resembling a counters give this shop
now largely hidden from the crenellated European castle, the look of a lavish
view of pass ersby on the and an octagonal dressing room. Its sweet
street by the church’s original Hindu temple treats, from rainbow
lych-gate and hedge. cupola. macarons to chocolate
The small, plain building bark, are just as pretty
(and indulgent).
is an early example of the
Arts and Crafts style (p32)  K3 ⌂ 3108 Fillmore St
later used # 11am–8pm Wed–Sat
(to 6pm Sun)
in more ∑ gingerelizabeth.com
prominent
Bay Area
churches.
Below the










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an old-fashioned air to the
district, in stark contrast to
the sophistication of the
merchandise on display. It’s a
popular place for brunch and
has some fine coffee shops.


12
Octagon House
 J2 ⌂ 2645 Gough St
@ 28, 45, 47, 49 # Noon–
3pm on second Sun of
month, and second and
fourth Thu of the month
¢ Jan ∑ nscda-ca.org/
octagon-house
1905 by the architect Joseph One of the rooms in Built in 1861, the Octagon
A. Leonard, working closely the Haas Lilienthal, House is an eight-sided
with the Northern California with its authentic wooden building. It houses a
Vedanta Society minister, decor and furniture small, but engaging, collection
Swami Trigunatitananda. of decorative arts and historic
Vedanta is the highest of documents of the Colonial
the six schools of Hinduism, complete with authentic and Federal periods. Included
and the building symbolizes furniture. A fine example of an are furniture, paintings,
the Vedanta concept that upper-middle-class Victorian Revolutionary playing cards
every religion is just a diff er- dwelling, the house has very and signatures of 54 of the 56
ent way of reaching one god. decorative gables, a circular signers of the Declaration of
The Temple is now a monas- corner tower, and highly Independence. Entry to the
tery, but it is worth a visit just elaborate ornamentation. house is free, though a
to marvel at this bizarre A display of photographs donation is suggested.
building from the outside. describes the history of the
building and reveals that this
grandiose house was modest
in comparison with some of
10 "'= those destroyed in the
Haas-Lilienthal House earthquake and fire of 1906.
 L3 ⌂ 2007 Franklin St
@ 1, 12, 19, 27, 47, 49 # For
guided tours only: noon– 11
2:30pm Wed & Sat, 11am– Cow Hollow
3:30pm Sun ∑ haas-
lilienthalhouse.org   K2 @ 22, 28, 30, 30X, 41,
43, 45, 49
This exuberant mansion in
Queen Anne style (p32) was Cow Hollow, an attractive,
built for the rich merchant upmarket shopping district
William Haas in 1886. Alice along Union Street, is so
Lilienthal, his daughter, lived called because it was used
there until 1972, when it was as grazing land for the city’s
given to the Foundation for dairy cows up until the 1860s.
San Francisco’s Architectural It was then taken over for
Heritage. It is the only intact development as a residential
private home of the period neighborhood. In the 1950s
open as a museum, and is the area became fashionable,
and chic boutiques, antiques
shops, and art galleries took
over the old neighborhood
The striking Vedanta Temple, shops. Many of these are The handsome Octagon
built in an unusual mix of housed in restored 19th- House, now a fine
architectural styles century buildings, lending decorative arts museum
83



082-083_EW_San_Francisco.indd 83 30/11/2018 16:44

EXPERIENCE Pacific Heights and the Marina Relaxed alfresco dining on











Chestnut Street, the Marina
District’s main hub

13
their location on what was a
Marina Green
Chestnut Street 14 utter lack of ornament, and
dark and crowded back alley,
emphasize their lower-class
 K2 @ 22, 28, 30, 30X, 43  J2 @ 22, 28, 30, 30X, 43
status. The Cottage Row
The main shopping and A long thin strip of lawn houses were saved from dest-
nightlife center of the Marina running the length of the ruction during the process of
District, Chestnut Street has a Marina District, Marina Green slum clearance in the 1960s. A
varied mix of movie theaters, is popular with kite-flyers and program organized by Justin
markets, cafés, coffee houses, for picnics, especially on July 4, Herman awarded grants to
and restaurants. It’s a great when the city’s largest fire-
place to stop for a meal and work show can be seen from
people-watch, having a much here (p51). Paths along the
more low-key and local feel waterfront are the city’s prime
than you’ll find in the busier spots for cyclists, joggers, and
tourist areas. The commercial roller-skaters. Golden Gate
strip stretches just a few Promenade leads from the
blocks from Fillmore Street west end of the green to
west to Divisadero Street, Fort Point, or you can turn
after which the neighborhood east to the Wave Organ at
becomes predominantly the harbor jetty.
residential in character.
15
INSIDER TIP
Flicks on Cottage Row
Chestnut Street
After shopping or as a  K4 @ 2, 3, 8AX, 8BX,
22, 38
prelude to a night out,
head to one of the old- One of the few surviving
school movie theaters a remnants of working-class
block apart on Chestnut Victorian San Francisco, this
Street. The Presidio and short stretch of flat-fronted
the Marina theaters cottages was built in 1882, at
both screen new the end of the Pacific Heights
releases and offer building boom. Unusual for
an intimate movie- San Francisco, the cottages
watching experience. share dividing walls, like terr-
aced houses in Europe. Their
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help people restore their
existing houses, rather than
replace them. All but one have
now been restored; they face EAT
a small attractive park.
Smitten Ice Cream Café Boho
16 Ice-cream scoops are Fresh, local seafood takes
frozen to order here
center stage here,
Wave Organ thanks to the huge liquid particularly with the
nitrogen tank rumbling signature “seacuterie
 J1 @ 30, 30X overhead. Try their board”: a sharing platter
Sitting at the tip of the inventive flavors like with tuna pastrami and
breakwater that protects the pretzel and pumpkin chai. octopus dip.
Marina is what has to be the  J2 ⌂ 2268 Chestnut St  K2 ⌂ 3321 Steiner St
world’s most peculiar musical ∑ smittenicecream.com ∑ cafebohosf.com
instrument. Built by scientists \\\ \\\
from the Exploratorium (p98),
the Wave Organ consists of a Jane on Fillmore Delarosa
number of underwater pipes
that echo and hum with the The mingled scent of Expect elbow-to-elbow
changing tides. Listening freshly brewed coffee and dining at this
house-baked sourdough
tubes are embedded in a bread wafts from the door unpretentious pizza place,
whose communal tables
mini-amphi theater that has of this café, whose healthy are routinely filled with
views of Pacific Heights and and hearty sandwiches patrons enjoying fresh
the Presidio. “Organ” is a little and salads make it a pasta and perfectly
misleading: the sounds you popular lunch spot. chewy, Italian pizzas.
hear are more like gurgling
plumbing than organ music.  K4 ⌂ 2123 Fillmore St  K2 ⌂ 2175 Chestnut St
∑ itsjane.com ∑ delarosasf.com
\\\ \\\
Peter Richards and
George Gonzalez’s
Wave Organ sculpture































85



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A SHORT WALK
PACIFIC

HEIGHTS



EXPERIENCE Pacific Heights and the Marina The blocks between Alta Plaza and Lafayette Colorful Victorian houses
Distance 1 mile (1.6 km ) Time 15 minutes
Nearest bus 3, 10, 24

Park are at the heart of Pacific Heights. The
streets in this upscale neighborhood are quiet
and tidy, lined with smart apartment blocks
and palatial houses. Some date from the late
19th century, while others were built after the
on Washington Street
earthquake and fire of 1906 (p53). To the north
of the area, the streets drop steeply toward
the Marina District, affording outstanding
views of the bay. Wander through the large
Alta Plaza and Lafayette parks and past the
Did You Know?
luxuriant gardens of the mansions in between,
then visit lively Fillmore Street, with its
numerous fashionable bars, cafés,
A little north of this map,
restaurants, and shops. 2640 Steiner St is the house
where Mrs Doubtfire
was filmed.
Set aside as a public park in B U C H A N A N
the 1850s, Alta Plaza Park
(p80) is a hilltop green
space offering splendid
views of the Marina District
and the bay beyond.
To bus nos. 3, 10, 24 W E B S T E R S T R E E T


START F I L L M O R E S T R E E T





S T E I N E R
S T R E E T


S T R E E T
Row houses (terraced
houses) on Webster
Street have been
declared an historic
landmark. Built for a
middle-class clientele
in 1878, they have
Washington Street lies to the since been restored.
east of Alta Plaza. Here Victorian
houses, in various architectural
styles, fill an entire block.
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0 meters 100 N
0 yards 100

PACIFIC
HEIGHTS AND
THE MARINA



Locator Map
For more detail see p74

Furnished in Victorian style, Haas-Lilienthal
House (p83) is the headquarters of the
Architectural Heritage Foundation.

The impressive limestone Spreckels Mansion
(p80), constructed on the lines of a Baroque
palace, has been home to the family of
best-selling novelist Danielle Steel since 1990.


J A C K S O N S T R E E T




WA S H I N G T O N S T R E E T G O U G H S T R E E T
L A G U N A


B U C H A N A N
S T R E E T


C L AY S T R E E T
S T R E E T
S A C R A M E N T O S T R E E T Street, one of the
No. 2004 Gough
more elaborate
Victorian houses in
Pacific Heights, was
built in 1889.
FINISH
The quiet Lafayette Park
(p81) offers good views of
the Victorian houses that
surround it.

No. 2151 Sacramento Street
is an ornate French-style
mansion. A plaque
commemorates a visit
by the author Sir Arthur
Conan Doyle in 1923.
The hilltop Lafayette Park,
a leafy green haven
87



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A SHORT WALK
AQUATIC PARK 0 meters 0 meters 300 300 N 300 300 N

0 yards
0 yards
Distance 1.5 miles (2.5 km) Time 35 minutes
Nearest public transportation Powell–Hyde Promenade climbs
cable car to Hyde Street Pier; bus 19, 28, 49 to Van
EXPERIENCE Pacific Heights and the Marina Park and Fort Mason offer some fascinating glimpses into the Hostel is one of the
Ness Avenue–Beach Street
Side by side on San Francisco’s northern waterfront, Aquatic
The Golden Gate
upward, rounding Black
city’s past, especially its colorful history as a seaport. There
Point and giving superb
are no cars here, just walkers, cyclists, and skaters sharing
views of Alcatraz and
lushly overgrown paths. The route winds past historic ships
Angel Island.
moored in the bay at Hyde Street Pier, Depression-era swim
clubs, Gold Rush cottages, and military installations dating
At the top of the
from Spanish colonial times to World War II. You can swim if
slope, the Youth
you don’t mind the chilly bay water, fish for crabs, paddle off
a small beach, or just stop to admire the view and picnic in
few ornate houses
one of the many grassy spots.
open to the public.
Pier
Narrow steps lead down the hill
Pier
to Fort Mason (p76). Visit the
Pier
Pier
Mexican Museum or view the Municipal Municipal Hyde StreetHyde Street Eureka Eureka
Outdoor Exploratorium, which Aquatic ParkAquatic Park
illustrates the history of the shoreline Herbst Herbst Cove Cove South EndSouth End
and the area’s natural environment. Pavilion Pavilion Club Club
Dolphin Dolphin JEFFERSON ST JEFFERSON ST
Magic
Mexican Mexican Magic Youth Youth Club Club
Theater
Museum Museum Theater Hostel Hostel Victorian Victorian
Park Park
BEACH STREET
Fort Fort Bocce BallBocce Ball BEACH STREET
Maritime Maritime
Museum Museum
FINISH Mason Mason Courts Courts
The grassy knolls of HYDE STREET HYDE STREET
NORTH POINT STREET
Great Meadow was Great Great NORTH POINT STREET
where refugees from Meadow Meadow
the 1906 earth quake F R A N K L I N F R A N K L I N LARKIN ST LARKIN ST
B A Y S T R E E T
camped until they B A Y S T R E E T
NORTH POINT STREET
could be rehoused. W E B S T E R S T R E E T NORTH POINT STREET
PO L K ST
PO L K ST
B A Y S T R E E T
B A Y S T R E E T VAN N E S S AVE VAN N E S S AVE
W E B S T E R S T R E E T
FRANCISCO ST
FRANCISCO ST OCTAVIA ST GOU GH ST GOU GH ST STR EET STR EET
Moscone Moscone L AG UN A ST L AG UN A ST
Recreation Recreation
OCTAVIA ST
Center Center
C H E S T N U T S T R E E T
C H E S T N U T S T R E E T
Near the Fort Mason
General’s residence is
the headquarters of
the Golden Gate
National Recreation
Area (GGNRA).
The historic Hyde Street
Pier on San Francisco’s
northern waterfront
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0 meters 0 meters 300 N 300 N

0 yards 0 yards 300 300 PACIFIC
HEIGHTS AND
THE MARINA

This curving concrete
pier marks the western Locator Map
end of Aquatic Park. Begin at the seaward For more detail see p74
People fish here at all end of Hyde Street Pier.
hours, mostly for crabs. Until 1938, this pier was the
The Mission-style center of activity on the
building at the foot of city’s northern waterfront.
the pier is an emergency It is now part of the Among the ships moored
pumping station. Maritime Museum (p102).
here is a handsome
steam-powered ferry boat,
the Eureka, built in 1890.
On the landward end of the pier,
there is a bookstore operated by
the National Park Service.
START
Hyde StreetHyde Street
Pier Pier Eureka Eureka
Municipal Municipal
Pier Pier The two whitewashed clapboard
Aquatic ParkAquatic Park buildings on the sandy beach
Cove Cove
Herbst Herbst South EndSouth End house the South End and
Pavilion Pavilion Club Club Dolphin swimming and
Dolphin Dolphin JEFFERSON ST JEFFERSON ST rowing clubs.
Magic
Mexican Mexican Magic Youth Youth Club Club
Theater
Museum Museum Theater Hostel Hostel Victorian Victorian
Park Park In flower-filled
Victorian Park street
BEACH STREET
Fort Fort Bocce BallBocce Ball BEACH STREET musicians perform.
Maritime Maritime
Mason Mason Courts Courts
Museum Museum
NORTH POINT STREET
Great Great NORTH POINT STREET HYDE STREET HYDE STREET The large Casino was built
in 1939 as a public bathing club.
Meadow Meadow F R A N K L I N F R A N K L I N LARKIN ST LARKIN ST Since 1951 it has been the West
B A Y S T R E E T
B A Y S T R E E T Coast home of the Maritime
Museum (p102).
NORTH POINT STREET
NORTH POINT STREET
PO L K ST
PO L K ST
B A Y S T R E E T VA N N E S S AVE VA N N E S S AVE
B A Y S T R E E T
W E B S T E R S T R E E T
W E B S T E R S T R E E T
FRANCISCO ST
FRANCISCO ST OCTAVIA ST GOU GH ST GOU GH ST STR EET STR EET
Moscone Moscone L AG UN A ST L AG UN A ST
Recreation Recreation
OCTAVIA ST
Center Center
A topiary sign
C H E S T N U T S T R E E T spells out
C H E S T N U T S T R E E T
“Aquatic Park.”
Behind this are
red-and-white
plastic-roofed
bocce ball
courts.
Skyline of San
Francisco with
Aquatic Park in
the foreground
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A hazy Alcatraz Island, iseen from atop Hyde Street








































FISHERMAN’S WHARF

AND NORTH BEACH



Fishermen from Genoa and Sicily first arrived
in the Fisherman’s Wharf area in the late 19th
century, and founded here the San Francisco
fishing industry. The district has slowly given way
to tourism since the 1950s, but brightly painted
boats still set out from the harbor on fishing trips
early each morning.
To the south of Fisherman’s Wharf lies North
Beach, sometimes known as “Little Italy.” This
lively part of the city has an abundance of
aromatic delis, bakeries, and cafes, from which
you can watch the crowds. It is home to Italian
and Chinese families, with a sprinkling of writers
and bohemians; Jack Kerouac, among others,
found inspiration here.
91



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Sausalito, T Sausalito, Tiburon,iburon,
Angel Island Angel Island
Alcatraz Island
Alcatraz Island
Pier 33 Pier 33
Alcatraz Alcatraz
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
AND NORTH BEACH
AND NORTH BEACH




San F San F r ancisc or ancisc o
B ay B ay







Pier 45 Pier 45 Pier 41 Pier 41
Municipal Municipal USS USS
Pier Pier Hyde Street Hyde Street
Pampanito
Pier Pier Pampanito PIER 39 PIER 39
Musée Mécanique
Musée Mécanique
Pier 47 Pier 47 Seaman’s Aquarium Aquarium
Seaman’s
FISHERMAN’S
Chapel Chapel FISHERMAN’S of the Bay of the Bay
WHARF
WHARF Beach and Beach and Pier 33 Pier 33 Alcatraz Alcatraz
Ripley's Believe It Madame
Ripley's Believe It Madame Stockton St Stockton St
Tussauds
Or Not! Museum Tussauds
ST
ST
JEFFERSON JEFFERSON Or Not! Museum S T R E E T S T R E E T Embarcadero and Bay St Pier 31 Pier 31
Embarcadero
and Bay St
B E A C H
Maritime Maritime The Cannery Jones and Jones and B E A C H P OWE P OWE S T O C K T O N R E E T
The Cannery
Museum Museum Beach St Beach St M A S O N M A S O N S T O C K T O N
S T R E E T S T R E E T P O I N T P O I N T S T R E E T L L T H E T H E Pier 29 Pier 29
B A Y S T R E E T
S T R E E T L L
B E A C H B E A C H N O R T H N O R T H San F San F r ancisc or ancisc o
Fort Fort Ghirardelli Ghirardelli C O L U M B U S B A Y S T B ay B ay
Mason Mason Square Square S T R E E T S T R E E T ST STREE ST T STREET Pier 27 Pier 27
C O L U M B U S
P O I N T P O I N T VANDEWATER VANDEWATER FR ANCISCO FR ANCISCO
N O R T H N O R T H H Y D E H Y D E STREET STREET E M B A R C A D E R O Pier 23 Pier 23
PFEIFFER ST PFEIFFER ST MONTGOMERY ST MONTGOMERY ST
B A Y S T R E E T Russian Russian STREET A V E A V E N U E S T S T ST R E ET ST R E ET S T R E E T C H E S T N U T S T WINTHROP ST WINTHROP Pier 19 Pier 19
B A Y S T R E E T
E M B A R C A D E R O
C H E S T N U T S T ST
FRANCISCO
S T R E E T
Hill Park Hill Park FRANCISCO STREET N U E W A T E R S T R E E T
Greenwich
S T R E E T
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San Francisco
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CHESTNUT STREET
Art Institute CHESTNUT STREET Bocce Ball Bocce Ball
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V
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Courts
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TELEGRAPH Telegraph
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Ferry
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Hill Park
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and Greenwich St
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N
N
and Greenwich St Pier 15
HILL
HILL


Dimaggio
Dimaggio

PACIFIC CHESTNUT CHESTNUT S T R E E T Street L O M B Playground Playground Saints Peter and Tower Tower S A N S O M E B A T T E R Y PLAZA B A T T E R Y PLAZA
Saints Peter and


Exploratorium
PACIFIC
Paul Church
HEIGHTS AND Street A R D ST R E E T T A Y L O R Paul Church Filbert Filbert Exploratorium Pier 9 Pier 9
FILBERT STREET
S A N S O M E
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Steps
Steps
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THE MARINA L O M B A R D S T GREENWICH STREET FILBERT STREET MONTGOMERY MONTGOMERY
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PL PL M A S O N M A S O N SQUARE SQUARE U N I O N ST R E E T
E NWICH STREET
GREENWICH STREET
FILBERT STREET
FILBERT STREET
N
N
GREE S L A R K I N L A R K I N E L E AV E N WO R T H S T R E E T L E AV E N WO R T H S T R E E T RUSSIAN C O L U M B U S S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T
K E A R NY
K E A R NY
E
S
U N I O N S T R E E T
S T R E E T
C O L U M B U S
S
T STREET U N I O N S T R E E T POW ELL Club POW ELL Club R E E N G R E E N STREET
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S H Y D H Y D E J O N E S S T R E E T J O N E S S T R E E T WASHINGTON GR ANT AVENUE GR ANT AVENUE S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T EJO Embarcadero
FILBER and Broadway
and Broadway
FILBERT STREET G ST R E E T ST R E E T S T R E E T
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GREEN STREET
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U N I O N S T R E E T
S T R E E T NORTH Pier 5 Pier 5


U N I O N A Ina Coolbrith Ina Coolbrith B R O A D W A Y S T R E E T S T R E E T THE THE
B R O A D W A Y

BEACH
A
RUSSIAN Park S T R E E T EE T The Beat The BeatBEACH Pier 1 Pier 1
Park
V
V
Museum
N STREET HILL HILL ST REE T O A D W A Y Museum
ST R
S T R E E T
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City Lights
O C TAV I A
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VALLEJO STREET Stairway Stairway B R P A C I F I C P A C I F I C EMBARC ADE RO
VALLEJO STREET
N
Bookstore
Bookstore
U
U
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S T R E E T
S T R E E T
VALLEJO STREET
VALLEJO STREET
DOWNTOWN
DOWNTOWN
F R A N K L I N S T R E E T
F R A N K L I N S T R E E T
EMBARC ADE RO
G O U G H STREET
AND SOMA
AND SOMA
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B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y CHINATOWN AND p132 p132 0 meters 0 meters 400 N 400 N
S T R E E T
STOCKTON
STOCKTON
S T R E E T
CHINATOWN AND
NOB HILL STREET STREET S H I N G T O N S T
NOB HILL
P A C I F I C A V E N U E
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y P A C I F I C A V E N U E p114 p114 Cable Car Cable Car W A W A S H I N G T O N S T 0 yards 0 yards 400 400
PORTSMOUTH
PORTSMOUTH
Barn
Barn
SQUARE
SQUARE
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Fonts: Posterama Text, Soho Pro

Sausalito, T Sausalito, Tiburon,iburon,
Angel Island Angel Island
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
Alcatraz Island
Alcatraz Island
AND NORTH BEACH
Pier 33 Pier 33
Alcatraz Alcatraz Must Sees 17 City Lights Bookstore
FISHERMAN’S WHARF 1 Alcatraz Island 18 Coit Tower
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
AND NORTH BEACH
AND NORTH BEACH
2 Exploratorium 19 Bocce Ball Courts
20 Filbert Steps
Experience More 21 Greenwich Steps
3 PIER 39
4 USS Pampanito Eat
5 Madame Tussauds 1 Franciscan Crab Restaurant
San F San F r ancisc or ancisc o 6 Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! 2 Scoma’s Restaurant
Museum
B ay B ay 7 The Cannery 3 Gary Danko
4 Café de Casa
8 Ghirardelli Square
9 Vallejo Street Stairway Drink
10 Maritime Museum 5 Player Sports Grill & Arcade
11 San Francisco Art Institute 6 Gold Dust Karaoke
Bar & Lounge
12 Musée Mécanique 7 BarNua
Pier 45 Pier 45 Pier 41 Pier 41 13 Lombard Street
Municipal Municipal USS USS 14 The Beat Museum Stay
Pier Pier Hyde Street Hyde Street
Pampanito
Pier Pier Pampanito PIER 39 PIER 39 15 Club Fugazi
Musée Mécanique
Musée Mécanique 8 Argonaut Hotel
16 Saints Peter and Paul Church
Pier 47 Pier 47 Seaman’s Aquarium Aquarium
Seaman’s
FISHERMAN’S
Chapel Chapel FISHERMAN’S of the Bay
of the Bay
WHARF
WHARF Beach and Beach and Pier 33 Pier 33 Alcatraz Alcatraz
Ripley's Believe It Madame
Ripley's Believe It Madame Stockton St Stockton St
Or Not! Museum Tussauds
Tussauds
ST
ST
JEFFERSON JEFFERSON Or Not! Museum S T R E E T S T R E E T Embarcadero and Bay St Pier 31 Pier 31
Embarcadero
and Bay St
B E A C H
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The Cannery
Museum Museum Beach St Beach St M A S O N M A S O N S T O C K T O N
S T R E E T S T R E E T P O I N T P O I N T S T R E E T L L T H E T H E Pier 29 Pier 29
B A Y S T R E E T
B E A C H B E A C H N O R T H N O R T H San F San F r ancisc or ancisc o
S T R E E T L L
Fort Fort Ghirardelli C O L U M B U S B A Y S T B ay B ay
Ghirardelli
Mason Mason Square Square S T R E E T S T R E E T ST STREE ST T STREET Pier 27 Pier 27
C O L U M B U S
P O I N T P O I N T VANDEWATER VANDEWATER FR ANCISCO FR ANCISCO
N O R T H N O R T H H Y D E H Y D E STREET STREET E M B A R C A D E R O Pier 23 Pier 23
PFEIFFER ST PFEIFFER ST MONTGOMERY ST MONTGOMERY ST
B A Y S T R E E T Russian Russian STREET A V E A V E N U E S T S T STRE E T STRE E T S T R E E T C H E S T N U T S T WINTHROP ST WINTHROP Pier 19 Pier 19
B A Y S T R E E T
E M B A R C A D E R O
C H E S T N U T S T ST
FRANCISCO
S T R E E T
Hill Park Hill Park FRANCISCO STREET N U E W A T E R S T R E E T
Greenwich
W A T E R S T R E E T
S T R E E T
San Francisco L O M B A R D L O M B A R D S T R E E T Greenwich Steps Pier 17 Pier 17
San Francisco
Steps
CHESTNUT STREET
Bocce Ball
Art Institute
Art Institute CHESTNUT STREET Bocce Ball Courts
V
V
Courts
TELEGRAPH Telegraph
Ferry
A
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and Greenwich St
Lombard
Hill Park
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N
and Greenwich St Pier 15
N
HILL
HILL


Dimaggio
Dimaggio

PACIFIC CHESTNUT CHESTNUT S T R E E T Street L O M B Playground Playground Saints Peter and Tower Tower S A N S O M E B A T T E R Y PLAZA B A T T E R Y PLAZA
Saints Peter and


PACIFIC
Exploratorium
Paul Church
HEIGHTS AND Street A R D ST R E E T T A Y L O R Paul Church Filbert Filbert Exploratorium Pier 9 Pier 9
FILBERT STREET
S A N S O M E
L O M B A R D S T
Steps
S T R E E T
Steps

GREENWICH STREET
THE MARINA L O M B A R D S T GREENWICH STREET FILBERT STREET MONTGOMERY MONTGOMERY
HEIGHTS AND
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p72 p72 SOUTHARD SOUTHARD WASHINGTON F R O N T F R O N T
THE MARINA
U N I O N ST R E E T
PL PL M A S O N M A S O N SQUARE SQUARE U N I O N ST R E E T
E NWICH STREET
GREENWICH STREET
FILBERT STREET
FILBERT STREET
N
N
GREE S L A R K I N L A R K I N E L E AV E N WO R T H S T R E E T L E AV E N WO R T H S T R E E T RUSSIAN C O L U M B U S S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T DAVIS DAVIS Pier 7 Pi
KEARNY
KEARNY
E
S
U N I O N S T R E E T
S T R E E T
C O L U M B U S
S
T STREET U N I O N S T R E E T POWE L L Club POWE L L Club R E E N G R E E N STREET
Embarcadero
S H Y D H Y D E J O N E S S T R E E T J O N E S S T R E E T WASHINGTON GR ANT AVENUE GR ANT AVENUE S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T EJO Embarcadero
FILBER and Broadway
and Broadway
FILBERT STREET G STREET STREET S T R E E T
Fugazi Fugazi VALL VALLEJO STREET STREET STREET
GREEN STREET
S T R E E T GREEN STREET A V E N U E A V E N U E NORTH
U N I O N S T R E E T

S T R E E T NORTH Pier 5 Pier 5


U N I O N A Coolbrith Coolbrith B R O A D W A Y S T R E E T S T R E E T THE THE

B R O A D W A Y
S T R E E T
BEACH
A
Park
RUSSIAN Park S T R E E T EET The Beat The BeatBEACH Pier 1 Pier 1
V
V
Museum
N STREET HILL HILL ST REET O A D W A Y Museum
S T R E E T
ST R
City Lights
E
E
O C TAV I A
O C TAV I A
GREEN GREEN STREET S T R E E T S T R E E T Vallejo Street B R O A D W A Y City Lights AVENUE AVENUE
Vallejo Street
VALLEJO STREET Stairway Stairway B R P A C I F I C P A C I F I C EMBARC ADE RO
VALLEJO STREET
N
Bookstore
Bookstore
U
U
E
E
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
VALLEJO STREET
VALLEJO STREET
DOWNTOWN
DOWNTOWN
F R A N K L I N S T R E E T
F R A N K L I N S T R E E T
EMBARC ADE RO
G O U G H STREET
AND SOMA
G O U G H STREET
AND SOMA
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y CHINATOWN AND p132 p132 0 meters 0 meters 400 N 400 N
S T R E E T
STOCKTON
STOCKTON
S T R E E T
CHINATOWN AND
NOB HILL
NOB HILL STREET STREET S H I N G T O N S T
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y P A C I F I C A V E N U E p114 p114 Cable Car Cable Car W A W A S H I N G T O N S T 0 yards 0 yards 400 400
P A C I F I C A V E N U E
PORTSMOUTH
PORTSMOUTH
Barn
Barn
SQUARE
SQUARE
092-093_EW_San_Francisco.indd 93 S T S T 30/11/2018 12:06

1 "'=
ALCATRAZ


ISLAND


EXPERIECNCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach
 6 F1 g Pier 33 # Times vary, check website
∑ nps.gov/alcatraz; www.alcatrazcruises.com
Even on the crowded shores of San Francisco, gazing
out at this bleak, rocky island and abandoned prison
can send a chill down anyone’s spine.
The former prison
Alcatraz means “pelican” in Spanish, a reference to the first and its lighthouse
inhabitants of this rocky, steep-sided island. Lying 3 miles standing atop
(5 km) east of the Golden Gate Bridge (p64), its location is both Alcatraz Island
strategic and exposed to harsh ocean winds. In 1859, the US
military established a fort here that guarded San Francisco Cell block
Bay until 1907, when it became a military prison. From 1934 Lighthouse
to 1963, it served as a maximum-security Federal Penitentiary.
Abandoned until 1969, the island was occupied by Indians of All Warden’s house
Tribes laying claim to the island as their land. The group was
expelled in 1971, and Alcatraz is now part of the Golden Gate The officers’
National Recreation Area. apartments
stood here.

Did You Know?
There were 14 escape
attempts during the 29
years Alcatraz Federal
Penitentiary was in
operation.




Agave Trail
(open seasonally)
Military parade
ground (open
seasonally)



1854
First Pacific Coast
▼
lighthouse activated
on Alcatraz
Timeline 1775 1848 1850 1859
▲ Fort Alcatraz
▲ Military
▲ Spanish explorer
Alcatraz is
Juan Manuel de
Ayala names Governor of declared a completed;
equipped with
Caifornia, John
military
Alcatraz after the Frémont, buys reservation 100 cannon and
“strange birds” Alcatraz by President 300 troops
that inhabit it Fillmore
94
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Must See

















Metal detectors checked
prisoners on their way to and Water tower
from the dining hall and
exercise yards.
Cell block











The Officer’s
Club, also known
as the Enlisted
The Military Dorm was Men’s Club
built in 1933 for the
military prison guards.
Equipped with drawbridge and
dry moat, the Sally Port
guardhouse defended the
The Exhibit Area is in the approach to Fort Alcatraz.
old barracks building. It
Alcatraz Pier houses displays, a bookstore,
a multi media show, and an Alcatraz Island and the
information center. old prison complex




1909 1962
▼ Army prisoners Frank Morris 1963
▼
begin construction and the Anglin Prison
on the cell house brothers escape closed
1934 1972
▲ Federal ▲ Alcatraz
Bureau of becomes a
Prisons turns national park
Alcatraz into a
civilian prison


95



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Inside Alcatraz
The maximum-security prison on Alcatraz,
dubbed “The Rock” by the US Army, housed
an average of 264 of the country’s most
incorrigible criminals, who were transferred
here for disobedience while serving time in
prisons elsewhere in the US. The strict
discipline at Alcatraz was enforced by the
threat of a stint in the isolation cells and by
EXPERIECNCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach
loss of privileges, including the chance at
special jobs, time for recreation, use of the
prison library, and visitation rights.
INSIDER TIP
Plan Ahead
Tickets for Alcatraz The corridor that separates
go on sale 90 days in C and B blocks, nicknamed
advance, and sell out Broadway by the prisoners
particularly fast in
summer months. Make
sure you bring a jacket
or sweater, as the
weather can be far Recreation yard
wilder and colder out
here than it is in the city.
Gun gallery






Library

Broadway















Control room
Visiting area

Main cell house
entrance Warden’s office

Cross-section of the
interior of Alcatraz
Federal Penitentiary
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Must See



Al Capone
Infamous Inmates era gangster “Scarface”
▶ The notorious Prohibition-
Capone was actually
convicted, in 1934, for
income tax evasion! He
spent much of his 10-year
sentence on Alcatraz in a
hospital isolation cell, and
finally left the prison mentally
unbalanced after contracting syphilis.
Robert Stroud
◀ Stroud spent all of his 17 years
Kitchen on The Rock in solitary
confinement. Despite
assertions to the contrary
in the film The Birdman
of Alcatraz (1962), Stroud
was in fact prohibited
from keeping birds in his
prison cell.
Carnes, Thompson,
and Shockley
In May 1946, a group of prisoners led by Clarence
Carnes, Marion Thompson, and Sam Shockley
overpowered guards and captured their guns.
The prisoners failed to break out of the cell
Hospital above house, but three inmates and two officers were
dining room killed in the “Battle of Alcatraz.” Carnes received
an additional life sentence, and Shockley and
Food preparation Thompson were executed at San Quentin prison,
and store rooms for their part as ring leaders of the insurrection.
Anglin Brothers
Dining room ▶ John and Clarence
Anglin, along with Frank
Morris, chipped through
the back walls of their
cells, hiding the holes
with cardboard grates.
They left dummy heads
in their beds and made a
raft to enable their escape.
They were never caught. Their
story was dramatized in the film
Escape from Alcatraz (1979).
George Kelly
▶ “Machine Gun Kelly”
served 17 years
on The Rock for
kidnapping and
extortion. He
was then sent
The prison kitchen, off the dining to a Kansas
room where inmates were well jail, where
fed to help quell rebellion he later died.





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2 "\-=
EXPLORATORIUM



 D2 ⌂ Pier 15 @ 1, 2, 6, 10, 12, 14, 21, 31, 38, 41 v E, F  Embarcadero
# 10am–5pm Tue–Sun ∑ exploratorium.edu/visit
With exhibit names like the Tinkering Studio and Tactile Dome,
you’ll be itching to get hands-on with all the interactive displays at
the Exploratorium. Covering everything from vast topics like the
science of human behavior right down to local geography, there’s
a topic to ignite everyone’s curiosity.

Since 1969 this renowned museum and global you need a break from all the excitement,
learning center has been influencing people the all-glass Fisher Bay Observatory Gallery
of all ages with its creative and interactive and Terrace offers excellent views of the Bay.
exhibits. The museum uses unique hands-on There are also a variety of events to look
displays that promote playful learning, and out for on the museum’s calendar, including
with so many topics to explore there’s a guided walk during the highest tide of the
something to inspire the curiosity in everyone. year (known as the “King Tide”), and Community
Learn how reflections work, how certain genes Days when patrons can pay whatever they
are passed on from parent to child, and wish (though admission is first-come-first-
examine local micro-organisms and their Bay served and can’t be guaranteed.) After Dark
Area habitats. Using only the sense of touch, Thursdays also give adults a chance to explore
find your way out of the Tactile Dome, a pitch- the exhibits in their own time (18+ only:
dark network of chambers and mazes. When 6–10pm Thursdays).

































Coloured light bathing
visitors to the Central
Gallery, and a child
blowing bubbles (inset)
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Must See

MUSEUM GUIDE
The long building is laid
out into five galleries.
The Bernard and Barbro
Osher Gallery 1 contains
the Human Phenomena
exhibit on topics such
as emotions and human
behavior. Gallery 2’s
tinkering exhibits and the
Bechtel Gallery 3 on seeing
and listening take up a
large part of the museum,
followed by Gallery 4 on
living systems. Covering
both the natural sciences
and local history and
geography are the out-
door Gallery 5, and the
Fisher Bay Observ atory
Gallery on the upper level
of the museum. The skyline of downtown San Francisco
behind the Exploratoium











































99



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EXPERIENCE MORE



see the torpedo room, the
3 = 4 "' claustrophobic kitchen, and
PIER 39 USS Pampanito officers’ quarters. When the
Pampanito was in service, it
 N1 @ 4, 8, 8BX, 39, 47  M1 ⌂ Pier 45 @ 4, 8, had a full crew of 10 officers
EXPERIENCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach fishing village, this 1905 cargo variations) ∑ maritime. 5 "
v E, F  Powell–Hyde
8BX, 39, 47 v E, F
and 70 seamen.
g SF Bay Ferry
 Powell–Hyde g SF Bay
Ferry # 9am–6pm Sun–
Refurbished in 1978 to
Thu, 9am–8pm Fri & Sat
resemble a quaint wooden
(see website for seasonal
Madame Tussauds
pier now houses many tourist
org/uss-pampanito
shops and specialty stores
 M1 ⌂ 145 Jefferson St
This World War II submarine
spread through two levels.
@ 4, 8, 8BX, 30, 39, 47
fought in, and survived,
The pier’s street performers
v E, F  Powell–Hyde
and amusements are popular
several bloody battles in the
# 10am–7pm daily,
Pacific, sinking six enemy
with families. You can try the
(to 8pm Fri–Sun)
two-story carousel, play
ships and severely damaging
∑ madame tussauds.com
others. Tragically for the allies,
games at the Riptide arcade,
or brave the Turbo Ride. The
two of its fatal targets were
Madame Tussauds San
Aquarium of the Bay houses
POWs. The Pampanito man-
brand’s second in California.
20,000 sea creatures including
aged to rescue 73 men and
sharks, bat rays, and skates.
In addition to the expected
host of historic lumi naries and
You can take a closer look
carry them to safety in the
figures from the worlds of
at the pier’s most famous
US. A tour of the ship takes
visitors from stern to bow to
residents at the Sea Lion carrying British and Australian Francisco location is the
enter tainment and sport,
Center; exhibits include a sea the complex also houses
lion skeleton and interactive the San Francisco Dungeon
videos. Step outside (additional fee required): a
afterward to view thrilling journey through time
the sea lions at exploring the darker aspects
close range. of the history of the city.







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