(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - San Francisco and the Bay Area

Avenue is lined with art a classic landmark and single-
galleries, boutiques and cafés, arch engineering marvel with
Fine historic buildings
on the waterfront in and beautiful homes border a stunning setting. It's also
Old Sacramento the steep hillsides down to worth making a reservation
the ocean, where Carmel to visit Hearst Castle, an
Beach provides a 1 mile (1.5 ostentatious fan tasy in stone
virtually untarnished by km) stretch of white sand. perched atop a mountain at
commercialism. Visitors San Simeon.
can stroll around the many
boutiques, bookshops, 44 Hearst Castle
galleries, and cafes, while " ' ⌂ 750 Hearst Castle Rd,
those who prefer the Big Sur San Simeon ∑ hearst
attractions of nature can n 47555 CA-1, Big Sur; castle.org
look out for migrating gray www.bigsurcalifornia.org
whales and admire the
stunnning ocean vistas. California’s coastal beauty is
nowhere more awe-inspiring
than along Big Sur: the STAY
43 rugged shore line south of
Monterey (p248). The Pacific
Carmel-by-the-Sea Coast Highway snakes past Pine Inn
surging headlands, leaps
@ n Ocean Ave; www. Just a few blocks
carmelcalifornia.com across plunging canyons, from the beach, this
and weaves above remote iconic inn – the oldest in
The charming seaside town of beaches pounded by crashing town – offers elegant
Carmel-by-the-Sea ("Carmel," surf. The 65-mile (105-km) rooms and a great on-
for short), has been a haven route between Carmel and site restaurant that's
for artists and writers since San Simeon is one of the popular with locals.
the early 20th century. Ocean world’s most magnificent ⌂ Ocean Ave & Monte
coastal drives – but make Verde, Carmel
sure you drive carefully, as ∑ pineinn.com
the route has many clifftop
Did You Know? switchbacks and is often fog- \\\
bound, especially in summer.
Bixby Bridge was Make sure you stop to
constructed using photo graph Bixby Bridge,
concrete partly due to
its aesthetic similarity
to sea cliffs .
































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NEED TO KNOW




















































A crowded cable car on Nob Hill















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Before You Go .............................................254

Getting Around ...........................................256

Practical Information ...............................260






























































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BEFORE
YOU GO





NEED TO KNOW Before You Go eventualities by considering the following points before you travel.
Forward planning is essential to any successful trip. Be prepared for all


Passports and Visas
AT A GLANCE
Holders of a European Union, Australian, or New
CURRENCY
Zealand passport with a return ticket do not
US dollar (USD)
require visas if staying in the US for 90 days or
$
less, but must apply for an Electronic System for
Travel Authorisation (ESTA) at least 72 hours
before travel. There is a small charge. All other
visitors need a visa before traveling. Contact
AVERAGE DAILY SPEND your local US embassy for current requirements.
ESTA
∑ esta.cbp.dhs.gov/esta
US Department of State
ON A MODERATE SPLASH ∑ travel.state.gov
BUDGET SPENDER OUT
$100 $200 $300+
Travel Safety Advice
Visitors can get up-to-date travel safety infor-
mation from the Department of State in the
US, the Foreign and Commonwealth Office in
BOTTLED COFFEE BEER DINNER
WATER FOR TWO the UK, and the Department of Foreign Affairs
$2.00 $2.50 $8.00 $80 and Trade in Australia.
Certain neighbourhoods have a reputation
for being less safe: the Tenderloin, Civic Center,
CLIMATE Western Addition, the Lower Haight, the Mission
south of 24th Street, South of Market above 5th
Street, and the Bayview district. Take the usual
The months of Apr to Aug
see around 14 hours of precautions against petty crime and avoid
sunlight, dropping to under walking around at night.
10 hours from Nov to Feb. San Francisco is at risk of earthquakes.
Should you experience a quake, there are simple
Temperatures can change safety guidelines to follow. If indoors, stand
by the hour, averaging under a doorway or table, away from windows
18ºC/65ºF in summer and and wall hangings and hold on until the shaking
10ºC/50ºF in winter. stops. If outdoors, stay away from power cables
and trees. Pull over, away from power lines and
The city is officially in bridges, if driving, and remain in the car. If on
drought, and rain rarely the beach, move to higher ground. The Federal
occurs from Feb to Nov. Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) has a
useful website for safety precautions.
UK
ELECTRICITY ∑ gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
SUPPLY US
Plug sockets are type A ∑ state.gov
and B, fitting two- and Australia
three-pronged plugs. ∑ smartraveller.gov.au
Standard voltage is FEMA
100–120 volts AC. ∑ fema.gov/earthquake-safety-home

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Customs Information Money
Nonresidents will need to fill in a Customs and Most retailers will accept card or cash. It is
Border Protection Agency form upon arrival to common to sign for your purchases rather than
the US. Customs allowances for visiting non­ entering a pin. You’re never far from an ATM
residents over the age of 21 are: 200 cigarettes in the city. Check your bank’s withdrawal fees
(1 carton), 100 cigars (except from Cuba); 1 litre before traveling; the ATM may also charge
(2 pints) of alcohol; and gifts to the value of $2.50 to $3.50 per transaction. You will be able
$100. Meat products, cheese, seeds, live plants, to exchange currency in the larger branches of
and fresh fruit all carry restrictions. Foreign Bank of America, Wells Fargo, and Chase, as well
visitors to the US may bring in or take out up as at bureaux de change. Prepaid currency cards
to $10,000 in US or foreign currency. Amounts can be used to withdraw money, and can act like
higher than this will need to be declared. debit cards in shops and restaurants.
US Customs and Border Protection
∑ cbp.gov Travelers with Specific Needs
Language San Francisco is famous for its steep hills,
particularly around Russian Hill and Nob Hill,
The official language of San Francisco is English, which may prove challenging for those with
although more than one hundred languages are mobility issues. Aside from this, most places
spoken across this cosmopolitan city. Spanish in the city are equipped to welcome disabled
and Chinese are well established as second and visitors. Public transportation is largely
third languages, and you are increasingly likely accessible for those with specific needs, and
to overhear Tagalog (the official language of the prices are usually discounted.
Philippines) around the Bay Area.
Closures
Insurance
Businesses, restaurants, museums, and shops
Check that your coverage includes emergency close earlier during the winter season, from
medical and dental care, lost or stolen baggage November to March. Most banks are closed on
and travel documents, accidental death, and Sundays. Some museums close on Mondays or
trip­cancellation fees. Tuesdays, and on public holidays.
Vaccinations PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
No inoculations are required for visiting the Jan 1
United States. New Year’s Day
Jan 21 Martin Luther King Jr. Day
Booking Accommodations
Feb 18 Presidents’ Day
Booking a package deal is often the most inex­ May 27 Memorial Day
pensive way of visiting San Francisco. Websites
offer airfares, hotels, and sometimes car rentals. Jul 4 Independence Day
Make sure you book in advance to get the best
deals, especially if visiting from June through Sep 2 Labor Day
August. Prices also spike around holidays and Oct 14 Columbus Day
local festivals, so check your dates before you
book. As well as luxury hotels, you can also find Nov 11 Veterans Day
a range of good­value hostels and B&Bs. San Nov 28 Thanksgiving Day
Fransisco Travel have a range of suggestions.
San Francisco Travel Dec 25 Christmas Day
∑ sftravel.com

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GETTING
AROUND





NEED TO KNOW Getting Around San Francisco’s public transportation options are well worth exploring.
Whether navigating the hills by cable car, or taking a ferry across the bay,


Arriving by Air
AT A GLANCE
San Francisco International Airport (SFO) is one
PUBLIC TRANSPORT FARES
of the busiest airports in the world, receiving
flights from all major inter national airlines, but is
SINGLE TICKET
$2.75
San Jose International Airport (SJC), which is
about 1 hour away from San Francisco, and
Oakland International Airport (OAK), which is 30
120 mins very user-friendly. Other nearby airports include
First use transfers minutes away.
SFO is 14 miles (23 km) south of the city
1-DAY PASSPORT center. The airport offers international
$12.00 connections to and from the Pacific Rim, Latin
America, and Europe. For a list of transportation
options, approximate journey times, and travel
Unlimited travel on Muni- costs for transportation between San Francisco
operated transport
International Airport and downtown San
7-DAY PASSPORT Francisco, see the table opposite. The Bay
Area Rapid Transport (BART) station is con-
$39.00 nected to the terminal by a light-rail shuttle.
Visitors will arrive at the airport on the
Unlimited travel on Muni- lower level. The top level provides services for
operated transport those departing the city. All car rentals, parking
shuttles, public buses, and door-to-door shuttle
TOP TIP minibuses deliver and pick up passengers at
Download the 511 SF Bay Transit Trip this level.
Planner app for routes and times.
Train Travel
SPEED LIMIT Amtrak trains link most major US cities and are a
RURAL great way to see parts of the country you would
FREEWAYS URBAN FREEWAYS not otherwise experience. Advance booking is
recommended for travel during peak periods.
70 65 Those visiting San Francisco by train will arrive at
the Amtrak station in Emeryville, to the north of
mph mph Oakland. From here, take a free 45-minute
(113km/h) (105km/h) shuttle to the Ferry Building in the city center.
Amtrak offers special discounts and packages,
including 15-, 30-, and 45-day travel passes.
Alternatively, you can arrive by Amtrak to San
NEIGHBORHOOD URBAN
SLOW ZONE AREAS Jose, then transfer via the CalTrain commuter rail
system to San Francisco. A separate ticket is
25 35 required for this journey. The CalTrain stops
near several Muni bus and Metro stops.
mph mph Amtrak
(40km/h) (55km/h) ∑ amtrak.com
CalTrain
∑ caltrain.org

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GETTING TO AND FROM THE AIRPORT

Transportation Journey time Fare
Taxi 25–45 minutes $45
SuperShuttle shared ride 40–60 minutes $19–$40
American Airporter Shuttle 60–75 minutes $17
Bay Area Rapid Transit (BART) 30 minutes $9.65

Public Transportation The Muni Metro runs from around 5am to
1am on weekdays, from 7am on Saturdays
San Francisco has a reliable and easy-to-use and 8am on Sundays. There are ten Muni Owl
public transportation system, but there are a services that run 24 hours a day, 7 days a week.
few different options to choose from. The Schedules are modified for public holidays, so
Municipal Railway (Muni) runs the public trans- check the SFMTA website before travelling.
port system. You can use an interchangeable
pass – the Muni passport – to travel on Muni Tickets
buses, Muni Metro streetcars (electric trams), You can purchase a reusable Clipper card from
and cable cars. The San Francisco Peninsula and Muni metro stations, online, or from Walgreens
the East Bay are linked by the Bay Area Rapid stores for just $3. Top up the card with money
Transit (BART). This is an efficient way to get to and hold it against the reader when boarding
both SFO and Oakland International airport. The a vehicle. You can use it to travel on the Muni,
San Francisco Municipal Transportation Agency BART, and the cable cars.
(SFMTA) website features lots of useful Buses and streetcars both cost $2.50 per ride,
information and maps. or $2.75 by cash. You can request a fare transfer
SFMTA that will allow you to transfer to another bus or
∑ sfmta.com streetcar for free within 120 minutes.
Muni passports are available for 1, 3, or 7
Long-Distance Bus Travel days, allowing unlimited travel on buses,
For travelers on a budget with more time, buses streetcars, and cable cars. These can be
are a great way to travel. The Greyhound Bus purchased from the Visitor Information Center,
Line takes passengers from Los Angeles to San the kiosk at San Francisco airport, and at other
Francisco in around 9 hours from $27. Discounts stores throughout the city.
are offered for online purchases, 14-day advance
purchases, students, seniors, children, and large Buses
groups. The Green Tortoise bus company offers There are bus stops every two or three blocks.
a friendly and adventurous way to see California, Bus shelters list the route number of the buses
with passengers sharing meals among the that stop there, as well as maps and service
group along the way, and often stopping at frequency information. Most have digital signs
tourist sites. showing when the next bus will arrive.
Greyhound The route number and name of the desti-
∑ greyhound.com nation are shown on the front and side of every
Green Tortoise bus. Route numbers followed by a letter are
∑ greentortoise.com either express services or make limited stops.
Either pay with exact change, or show your
Planning Your Journey Muni Passport.
Public transportation is busiest from 7am–9am
and 4pm–7pm from Monday through Friday. Streetcars
This may be the best time to explore the city by Streetcars, also known as Light Rail Vehicles
foot. The cable cars are a popular tourist (LRVs), operate both above and below ground,
activity, so are busy during the summer months. and are another great way to see the city.

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Streetcar lines J (Church), K (Ingleside), L It is advisable not to take a limousine from a taxi
(Taraval), M (Ocean View), N (Judah), and T stand or from the street. Legally, limousines are
(Third) share the same tracks, so check the only available for prearranged trips.
letter and name of the streetcar when boarding Uber
from Market Street. To go west, follow station ∑ uber.com
signposts for “Outbound” streetcars; to go east, Lyft
chooose “Downtown.” The F line streetcar runs ∑ lyft.com
along Market Street only, and features vintage Yellow Cabs
∑ yellowcabsf.com
streetcars from all over the world.
NEED TO KNOW Getting Around BART trains run from 4am on weekdays, from Congestion, a shortage of parking spaces, and
BART
Driving
6am on Saturdays, and from 8am on Sundays,
until around midnight. Tickets are issued by
strictly enforced laws discourage many visitors
machines in BART stations, which take cards or
from driving in San Francisco, but possibly the
cash. You must present your ticket at the
best way to experience the twists and turns of
Lombard Street is on four wheels.
turnstile both when you board and leave the
train. You can also use a Clipper card. The final
destination of the train will be displayed on the
To rent a car, you must be at least 25 years
front of the train itself, and the direction of
old with a valid driving license. Most agencies
travel will be marked on the platform.
BART Car Rental
require a large deposit. Always return the car
∑ bart.gov with a full tank of gas to avoid inflated gas prices
charged by the agency. It is slightly cheaper to
Taxis rent a car from San Francisco airport. Additional
rental taxes can drive up the price, especially if
Taxis in San Francisco operate 24 hours a day. you hire from within the city. It is also more cost-
They are licensed and regulated, so expect effective to do a round trip, to avoid large drop-
efficient service, expert local knowledge, off costs. Check your existing insurance policy
and a set price. A taxi will have its rooftop before signing up to car insurance, as you may
sign illuminated if vacant. It will also display already be partially covered.
the company name and telephone number,
plus the cab number. Make a note of this, and if Rules of the Road
you leave anything in the cab, call the company The maximum speed limit is 35 mph (55 km/h)
and quote the cab number. in the city. Many streets are one-way, with traffic
To catch a cab, wait at a taxi stand, call and lights at most corners. In the US, if there is no
request a pick-up, or hail a vacant cab. Tell your oncoming traffic, drivers may turn right at a red
driver your exact destination. The meter will be light, always giving pedestrians the right of way.
on the dashboard, and expect to add a 15 to 20 Otherwise, a red light means stop, and an amber
percent tip to the final amount. Fares are often light means proceed with caution.
posted inside the cab. There is usually a flat fee
of around $3.50 for the first mile (1.6 km). This Parking
increases by about $2.75 for each additional Parking meters operate 9am to 6pm Monday
mile, or 55 cents per minute while waiting. through Saturday, except on national holidays,
Fares from the Ferry Building to the west coast when parking is free. Meters in some tourist
beaches are about $35, and the average fare areas operate on Sundays, including at
from San Francisco airport to the city center Fisherman’s Wharf and the Embarcadero. Most
is $45. The driver will write you a receipt on meters have two-hour time limits, some have
request. If you travel 15 miles (24 km) or more four-hour limits, and others no time limit at all.
beyond the city limits, the fare will be 150 You can prepay from 4:30am online. Costs range
percent of the metered rate. from $2 to $6 per hour. City-center parking
All taxi-cabs are now non-smoking. If you garages are also available from $16 per day.
have a complaint about a taxi driver, call the Curbs here are color-coded. A red curb means
Police Department Taxicab Complaint Line no stopping; yellow denotes a com mercial
(415-701-4400). loading zone; green allows 10 to 30 minutes of
The taxi companies Uber and Lyft are very parking; and white allows you to park for five
cost-effective and reliable in San Francisco. minutes during business hours, with the driver
Download the apps on your smartphone. remaining in the vehicle. Blue curb areas are
Payment is handled through the apps and reserved for the disabled. By law, you must curb
you can track your journey, split fares with other your wheels when parking on steep hills. Turn
users, and report complaints through the app. your wheels into the road when your car is
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parked facing uphill, and toward the curb when Francisco to Sausalito is $12.50 each way and
facing downhill. Check signs for tow warnings food and drink are available on board. These
and follow all instructions. ferries only carry foot passengers and bicycles,
not motor vehicles. Golden Gate Ferry and San
Penalties Francisco Bay Ferry services depart from the
If you park your car at an out-of-order meter, Ferry Building, and the Blue and Gold Fleet and
expect to get a parking ticket. Blocking bus Red and White Fleet dock at Fisherman’s Wharf.
stops, fire hydrants, driveways, garages, and Several companies also offer sightseeing
wheelchair ramps will also incur a fine, as will cruises of the Bay. Destinations include Angel
running a red light or a stop sign, or driving while Island and towns on the north shore of the Bay.
texting. Traffic fines in San Francisco can exceed Many of these boat trips pass near Alcatraz, but
$100. If your car has been towed away, contact only Alcatraz Cruises stops there. Hornblower
the City and County of San Francisco Impound. Dining Yachts offer weekend brunches and
Expect to pay a towing and storage fee when dinners from Thursdays to Sundays. Oceanic
retrieving your car. Society Expeditions arranges nautical environ-
City and County of San Francisco Impound mental safaris to the Farallon Islands, 27 miles
§ 415-865-8200 (43 km) off shore, for $128 per person for a full
day, where whales, sea lions, seals and dolphins
Driving Outside the City are often spotted. Shorter whale-watching
No toll payment is required to leave the city, but expeditions also depart from Pier 39 for $45 per
you will need to pay between $4 and $7 to re- person ($35 for children) from March to October.
enter. During rush hour, cars with three or more Alcatraz Cruises
occupants can use the carpool lane, avoiding ∑ alcarazcruises.com
both traffic and tolls. In other parts of the city, Blue and Gold Fleet
only two occupants are required. It is legal to ∑ blueandgoldfleet.com
drive in the carpool lane when it’s not rush hour, Red and White Fleet
but not to avoid the bridge tolls. Those caught ∑ redandwhite.com
using the carpool lane illegally face steep fines. Golden Gate Ferry
∑ goldengateferry.org
Cycling San Francisco Bay Ferry
∑ sanfranciscobayferry.com
Cycling is popular in San Francisco. There are Horn Blower
many bicycle lanes and all Muni buses are ∑ hornblower.com
equipped to carry bikes on the outside. Bikes Ocean Society
can also be taken on the light-rail Muni cars and ∑ oceanicsociety.org/expeditions
on BART, although not at rush hour. There are SF Bay Whale Watching
two marked scenic bicycle routes. One goes ∑ sfbaywhalewatching.com
from Golden Gate park south to Lake Merced;
the other starts at the southern end of Golden Cable Cars in San Francisco
Gate Bridge and crosses to Marin County.
Bicycles, equipment, and tours are available San Francisco’s cable cars are world-famous, and
from Bay City Bike and Blazing Saddles. They even classed as a “moving national monument”.
rent out bikes from $8 per hour, $32 ($20 for You’re likely to hear their distinctive bells all over
children) per day, or $105 for seven days. Bay the city center.
Area Bike Share stations, which are spread Service runs every ten minutes from 6am to
across the city, also hire bikes, charging $9 a day midnight daily. The fare is $7 per journey, with a
and $22 for 3 days. discount for seniors and the disabled after 9pm
Bay City Bike and before 7am. There are three routes: the
∑ baycitybike.com Powell-Hyde line, which passes Union Square
Blazing Saddles and climbs Nob Hill, providing good views of
∑ blazingsaddles.com Chinatown. The Powell-Mason line begins in
the same place and branches off to pass North
Boats and Ferries Beach, ending at Bay Street. Sit facing east on
the Powell lines for the best views. The California
Ferries are one of the best ways to appreciate line runs from the base of Market Street at the
the beauty of the Bay Area. They shuttle to and Embarcadero, through the Financial District
from the cities of San Francisco, Oakland, and and Chinatown, over Nob Hill, ending at Van
Larkspur, as well as the smaller towns of Tiburon Ness Avenue. You are more likely to get a seat
and Sausalito, and nearby Angel Island. Viewing if you board the cable car at the end of the line,
the coastline from the ferry is less expensive but you may prefer to hang onto a pole while
than a sightseeing cruise. The trip from San standing on a side running board.

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PRACTICAL
INFORMATION





NEED TO KNOW Practical Information any eventuality by brushing up on the following points before you set off.
Forward planning is essential for any successful trip. Prepare yourself for


Personal Security
AT A GLANCE
San Francisco is one of the safest large cities
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
in the US. Police patrol tourist areas frequently,
and few visitors are victims of street crime.
GENERAL
San Francisco has a high population of
EMERGENCY
AMBULANCE
homeless people, and can be quite unsafe
in some areas at night. Plan your routes in
911
911
advance, look at maps discreetly, and walk
with confidence. If you need directions, ask
hotel or shop staff, or the police. If you use
common sense, your stay should be safe and
FIRE
SERVICE POLICE pleasant.
911 911 Health
Healthcare in the US is high quality but costly.
Ensure you have full medical cover prior to
your visit, and keep receipts to claim on your
insurance if needed.
TIME ZONE Walgreens pharmacies can be found all over
PST/DST. Daylight the city, and branches at 498 Castro Street, 135
Saving Time (DST)
from the second Powell Street, 459 Powell Street, Divisadero
Sunday in March till Street, and Westborough Square are open 24
the first Sunday in Nov. hours. Certain medications available over the
counter in the UK require a prescription in the
US. There are several emergency rooms open
TAP WATER 24 hours, including the following:
Safe to drink, but California Pacific Medical Center
bottled water is ∑ cpmc.org
widely available.
Saint Francis Memorial Hospital
∑ saintfrancismemorial.org
Smoking, Alcohol and Drugs
TIPPING You must be over 21 to buy and drink alcohol,
and to buy tobacco products. It is legal for over
Waiter 20% 21s to smoke marijuana in the home or in a
building licensed for its consumption. Drinking
Hotel Porter $1.50 per bag alcohol is not allowed in most public areas,
especially from open containers. Driving while
under the influence of alcohol or any drug
Housekeeping $2 per day is prohibited. It is illegal to smoke in public
buildings, workplaces, restaurants, and bars.
Concierge €1–2 It is also illegal to smoke anywhere that exposes
others to second-hand smoke, including parks,
Cab Driver 15–20% beaches, queues, and bus stops. These laws
extend to e-cigarettes.

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ID Post
Take some form of photo identification when
buying alcohol, tobacco, or marijuana, as bars, Stamps can be purchased at post offices,
clubs, restaurants, and shops are required by hotel reception desks, and some grocery stores.
law to check it. Check current postal rates at post offices or
online. Letters can be mailed from post offices,
Local Customs your hotel, and street mailboxes. Express mail
can also be arranged through private delivery
San Francisco is a very laid-back city. Casual companies, such as DHL, FedEx, and UPS.
clothing such as jeans, T-shirts, and trainers is US Postal Services
quite acceptable for all but the most upmarket ∑ usps.com
restaurants and nightclubs.
Taxes and Tipping
LGBT Safety
Sales tax in San Francisco is 8.5 percent. Tax is
San Francisco has an incredibly diverse LGBT+ charged on everything except groceries, plants
community, with a history spanning back to used for food, and prescription drugs, with a
the Gold Rush. The Castro district is the most few other exemptions. A useful trick to figure
welcoming area for the LGBT+ community, out a restaurant tip is to double the tax. Always
and information on events can be found remember to sign your receipt, and avoid
across the city. leaving cash on the table.
Visiting Churches Discount Cards
and Cathedrals
Several websites offer discounts and passes,
Always dress respectfully when visiting places often grouping together attractions and public
of worship: cover your torso and upper arms. transportation. Visitors with proof of student
Ensure shorts and skirts cover your knees. status receive discounts at many museums and
theaters. You can apply for an International
Mobile Phones and Wi-Fi Student Identity Card (ISIC) prior to traveling.
Sightseeing Pass
Cellphone service in San Francisco is strong. ∑ sightseeingpass.com
The main US network providers are AT&T, City Pass
Sprint, T-Mobile US, and Verizon. Most of these ∑ citypass.com
offer prepaid, pay-as-you-go phones and US
SIM cards, starting at around $30 (plus tax), WEBSITES AND APPS
which you can purchase upon arrival. Calls
within the US are cheap, but making www.sfchronicle.com
international calls may be pricey. Search under “Datebook” for listings
Triband or multiband cell phones from and events.
around the world should work in the US, www.sftravel.com
but your service provider may have to unlock Full of information and ideas for trips
international roaming. The Three UK network and activities throughout the city.
offers a competitive SIM-only deal from £10 Moovit
a month, including data and calls to the UK. This app tells you the best way to your
If you are planning to use your mobile phone destination via public transportation.
for Wi-Fi only, switch off data roaming. Parknow
Free Wi-Fi is widely available throughout Book parking spaces in advance, or
the city and the Bay Area. Service can be find open parking spaces in the city.
accessed on trains, in the subway tunnel and listings, including festival dates.
linking San Francisco and Oakland, and in Routesy
many cafes and hotels. App showing live transportation times.

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INDEX




Page numbers in bold refer to Bay Area 209–51 Bodega Bay 244
main entries. bars 225, 243 Booking accommodation 255
getting to know 212–15 Botta, Mario 138
A hotels 219, 236, 245, 251 Bourne, William, II 237
Index Air travel 256, 257 itinerary 26–7 Bracket (Joan Mitchell) 41
Bridges
maps 210–11, 239
Alamo Square 15, 41, 168 restaurants 217, 223, 233, Bay Bridge 224
Alcatraz Island 45, 94–7 235, 243, 249 Golden Gate Bridge 12, 64–7
Alcohol 260–61 walks 220–21, 228–9 Brief History on Screen, A 56–7
Alta Plaza Park 80–81, 86 Bay Area Figurative Movement Brown, Arthur 70, 106, 165,
Angel Island 217 31 167
Anglin, John and Clarence 97 Bay Area for Art Lovers 30–31 Buena Vista Park 180, 187
Año Nuevo 236 Bay Area for Families 40–41 Buffalo Paddock 203
Applegarth, George 80 Bay Area for Thrill-Seekers Bus travel 257
Apps 261 44–5
Aquariums see Zoos and Bay Area Let’s Eat! 34–5 C
Aquariums Bay Area’s Natural Beauty
Aquatic Park 88–9 38–9 Cable Car Museum 118–19
Architecture 36–7 Bay Bridge 224 Cable cars 13, 120–21, 259
Embarcadero Center 144, Beach Blanket Babylon 15, 43, Cable Car Museum 118–19
154 104 Powell Street Cable Car
Moscone Center 143 Beach Chalet, The 204–5 Turntable 152
Painted Ladies 168 Beaches 38 California Academy of Sciences
Sutro Tower 184 Baker Beach 67, 68–9 41, 192–3, 207
Transamerica Pyramid 145, Big Sur 251 California Historical Society
154 Carmel Beach 251 148, 157
Victorian houses 170–71 Del Monte Beach (Monterey) Calistoga 240–41
Arion Press 71 249 Cannery, The 101
Armstrong Redwoods State Goat Rock Beach 217 Capone, Al 97
Park 39, 245 Half Moon Bay 232–3 Carmel-by-the-Sea 25, 251
Art and sculpture 30–31 Johnson’s Beach 245 Carnaval Mural 30, 185
Carnaval Mural 30, 185 Muir Woods and Beach 219 Carnes, Clarence 97
Wave Organ 48, 85 Ocean Beach 202–3 Car rental 258
see also Galleries and art Rodeo Beach 220 Castro Street 47, 176–7
centers Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk Cathedrals
Asian Art Museum 162–3 41, 230–31 Grace Cathedral 125, 130
AT&T Park 153 Stinson Beach 216 Holy Virgin Cathedral 69
Avedon, Richard 31 Veterans Memorial Beach Old St. Mary’s Cathedral 124,
Average daily spend 254 242 129
Ayala, Juan Manuel de 94 Beat Museum, The 104 St. Mary’s Cathedral 167
Before You Go 254–5 visiting 261
B Belluschi, Pietro 167 Cemeteries
see also Churches
Bender, Albert M. 140
Baker Beach 67, 68–9 Berkeley 226–9 Columbarium 200
Bank of California 146, 154 Bernhardt, Sarah 149 Charles Krug Winery 238
Barbary Coast 144 Beyond the Bay 248–51 Chestnut Street 84
Bars getting to know 215 Children’s activities 40–41
Downtown and SOMA 150 hotels 251 Bay Area Discovery Museum
East Bay 225 maps 249 41, 218
Fisherman’s Wharf and restaurants 249 California Academy of
North Beach 107 Big Sur 251 Sciences 41, 192–3, 207
Golden Gate Park and Land’s Bill Graham Civic Auditorium Children’s Discovery
End 203 164 Museum (San Jose) 234–5
Pacific Heights and the Birds, The (film) 150, 244 Children’s Fairyland
Marina 80 Black Bart 145 (Oakland) 223
Sonoma County 243 Boat travel 259 Exploratorium 41, 98–9
BART trains 258 Bocce Ball Courts 106–7 Koret Playground 199

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Lawrence Hall of Science Coppola, Francis Ford 244 Chestnut Street 84
(Berkeley) 226 Corona Heights and Randall Club Fugazi 104
Monterey Bay Aquarium 40, Museum 181 Embarcadero Center 144,
248 Cottage Row 84–5 154
PIER 39 14, 40, 100, 109 Cow Hollow 83 Great American Music Hall
Randall Museum 181 Crocker Galleria 150 167
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk Currency 254 Louise M. Davies Symphony
41, 230–31 Customs information 254–5 Hall 164–5
Steam Train (Tilden Regional Cycling 44, 259 Palace of Fine Arts 28, 36,
Park) 225 68
Tech Museum of Innovation D Theater District 43, 151
(San Jose) 41, 234 Veterans Building 167
Walt Disney Family Museum, DeMille, Cecil B. 105 War Memorial Opera House
The 69 De Young Museum 31, 194–5, 165
Chinatown and Nob Hill 35, 53, 206 Exploratorium 41, 98–9
115–31 Dirty Harry (film) 56
getting to know 18 Discount cards 261 F
map 116–17 Disney, Walt 69
restaurants 122 Divisadero Street 168 Fairmont Hotel 127
shopping 126 Dolores Park 183 Family activities 40–1
walks 128–31 Dolores Street 182 FanimeCon 234
Chinatown Gateway 29, 124, Domaine Chandon 239 Ferlinghetti, Lawrence 105
129 Downtown and SOMA 133–57 Ferrer, Gloria 246
Chinese Historical Society of bars 150 Ferries 259
America 126 getting to know 18 Ferry Building 12, 29, 136–7,
Churches hotels 149 155
Church of St Mary the Virgin map 134–5 Festivals and events 43, 47,
82 restaurants 137, 141, 147 50–51, 234
Saints Peter and Paul Church shopping 152 Filbert Steps 107, 111
104–5, 111 walks 154–7 Fillmore Street 80
Trinity + St. Peter’s Episcopal Dragon Fortune (Hung Yi) 162 Film 56–7, 84
Church 81 Drink see Alcohol; Bars; Food Filoli 237
visiting 261 and drink; Wineries Finding Dory (film) 40
see also Missions; Temples Drive, A 28–9 Fisherman’s Wharf and North
Church of St Mary the Virgin 82 Driving 256, 258–9 Beach 15, 91–113
City Hall 166 Drugs 260–61 bars 107
City Lights Bookstore 105 Duncan, Isadora 151 getting to know 17
Civic Center and Hayes Valley hotels 102
29, 159–71 E map 92–3
getting to know 19 restaurants 105
map 160–61 Eames, Charles and Ray 141 walks 108–13
restaurants 164 Earthquakes 53, 55, 119, 166, Flood, James “Bonanza King”
Civil War 76, 151 218 127
Claremont Club and Spa 38, 225 East Bay 38, 48, 222–229 Food and drink 13, 34–5
Clarke’s Folly 182 bars 225 Coastways Ranch U-Pick
Clement Street 70 getting to know 213 237
Cliff House 204 restaurants 38 Culinary Institute of America
Climate 254 walks 228–9 at Greystone (St Helena)
Closures 255 Eclipse (Perry) 144 240
Club Fugazi 15, 104 Electricity 254 Ghirardelli Chocolate
Cody, William “Buffalo Bill” 203 Embarcadero Center 144, 154 Manufactory 101
Coit Tower 29, 31, 106, 111 Embarcadero Plaza 146–7, 155 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie
Columbarium 200 Emergency numbers 260 Company 33, 124–5, 128
Connick, Charles 125 Entertainment venues Gourmet Ghetto (Berkeley)
Conservatory of Flowers 200 Bay Area Live!, The 42–3 227
Contemporary Jewish Museum Blue Note (Napa) 241 see also Bars; Restaurants;
148, 157 Castro Theater 177 Wineries

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Fort Mason 76–7 , 88 Gay San Francisco see LGBT+ Health 260
Fort Ross State Historic Park Culture Hendrix, Jimi 165
246 Gehry, Frank 141 Herman, Justin 84–5, 146–7
Francis Ford Coppola Winery Getting around 256–9 Hippie Culture 178–9
Index Fremont, John 65, 94 Getting to Know San Francisco Historic buildings 15, 36–7
244
Alcatraz Island 45
16–22
French Laundry, The 35, Getting to Know the Bay Area Bank of California 146, 154
238–9 212–5 Beach Chalet, The 204–5
Frieda and Diego Rivera (Kahlo) Ghirardelli Square 101 California State Capitol
141 Ginsberg, Allan 105 (Sacramento) 250
Full House (TV show) 56, 57 GLBT History Museum 46, 182 Cannery, The 101
Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves Chinatown Gateway 29,
G Golden Gate Bridge 12, 64–7 City Hall 166
246
124, 129
Galleries and art centers Golden Gate Fortune Cookie Clarke’s Folly 182
Arion Press 71 Company 33, 124–5, 128 Cliff House 204
Berkeley Art Museum and Golden Gate Park 48, 199 Coit Tower 29, 31, 106, 111
Pacific Film Archive walk 206–7 Ferry Building 12, 29, 136–7,
(Berkeley) 226 Golden Gate Park and Land’s 155
Fort Mason Center for Arts End 48, 189–207 Filoli 237
and Culture 76–7 bars 203 Haas-Lilienthal House 83,
Legion of Honor 31, 196–7 getting to know 21 87
Letterman Digital Arts map 190–91 Hallidie Building 146
Center 71 restaurants 201 Hearst Castle (San Simeon)
Mission Cultural Center for walks 206–7 251
Latino Arts 185 Golden Gate Park Panhandle McLaren Lodge 198
Museum of the African 169, 186 Merchants’ Exchange 147,
Diaspora 148 Gold Rush 52 154
San Francisco Art Institute Grace Cathedral 125, 130 Monterey State Historic Park
102–3 Graham, Bill 164 249
San Francisco Arts Grant Avenue 122–3, 129 Octagon House 83
Commission Gallery 165 Grateful Dead, The 54, 179 Pacific Coast Stock
SFMOMA (San Francisco Great American Music Hall 167 Exchange 147, 155
Museum of Modern Art) Greenwich Steps 107, 111 Pacific-Union Club, The 127,
31, 138–41, 157 Guerneville 244–5 130
Yerba Buena Center for the Gump’s 150–51 Palace of Fine Arts 28, 36,
Arts 31, 142, 148 Guston, Philip 140 68
Galvez, Daniel 185 PIER 39 14, 40, 100, 109
Gardens H (Richard) Spreckels Mansion
Botanic Garden (Tilden 180, 187
Regional Park) 225 Haas-Lilienthal House 83, 87 Spreckels Mansion 80, 87
Conservatory of Flowers Haight Ashbury 178–9 Sutro Baths, The 205
200 walk 186–7 Winchester Mystery House
Japanese Tea Garden 198–9, Haight Ashbury and the (San Jose) 234
206 Mission 30, 173–87 see also Architecture;
Kaiser Center Rooftop getting to know 20 Military buildings
Garden (Oakland) 48 map 174–5 History 52–5
Queen Wilhelmina Tulip restaurants 182 History of California, The
Garden 202 shopping 184 (Refregier) 148
San Francisco Botanical walks 186–7 Hobart, Lewis P. 125
Garden 48, 200–201 Half Moon Bay 232–3 Holy Virgin Cathedral 69
Shakespeare Garden 198, Hall, William Hammond 199 Hopkins, Mark 126
207 Hallidie, Andrew 119 Hotels
University Botanical Garden Hallidie Building 146 Beyond the Bay 251
(Berkeley) 226 Hayes Valley 166; see also Civic booking 255
Yerba Buena Gardens Center and Hayes Valley Claremont Club and Spa 38,
142–3, 157 Healdsburgh 242–3 225

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Downtown and SOMA 149 Krug, Charles 238 A Short Walk: Fisherman’s
Fairmont Hotel 127 Kuan Di 123 Wharf 108–9
Fisherman’s Wharf and A Short Walk: Golden Gate
North Beach 102 L Park 206–7
InterContinental Mark A Short Walk: Haight
Hopkins Hotel 126–7 Labaudt, Lucien Adolphe 204 Ashbury 186–7
Marin County (Bay Area) 219 Lafayette Park 81, 87 A Short Walk: Nob Hill 130–31
Palace Hotel 148–9 Lakes see Rivers and lakes A Short Walk: Pacific Heights
Peninsula, The (Bay Area) 236 Land’s End 48, 205; see also 86–7
Sonoma County (Bay Area) Golden Gate Park and Land’s A Short Walk: Russian Hill
245 End 112–13
Land’s End Labyrinth 48, 204 A Short Walk: Telegraph Hill
I Language 255 Bay Area 210–11
110–11
Laver, Augustus 127
ID 261 Legion of Honor 31, 196–7 Chinatown and Nob Hill
Insurance 255 Letterman Digital Arts Center 116–17
InterContinental Mark Hopkins 71 Civic Center and Hayes
Hotel 126–7 Levi Strauss & Co. 183 Valley 160–61
Islands LGBT+ Culture 46–7, 173, Downtown and SOMA 134–5
Alcatraz 45, 94–7 176–7, 261 Explore San Francisco 10–11
Angel Island 217 GLBT History Museum 46, Fisherman’s Wharf and
Seal Rocks 203 182 North Beach 92–3
Italian community 105–6, 110 Figures with Sunset Golden Gate Park and Land’s
Itineraries (Lichtenstein, Roy) 139 End 190–91
1 Day in San Francisco 22–3 Libeskind, Daniel 148 Haight Ashbury and the
3 Days in San Francisco, Lincoln Park 204 Mission 174–5
Monterey, and Carmel Loire, Gabriel 125 Monterey 249
24–5 Lombard Street 103 Napa Valley 239
7 Days in the Bay Area 26–7 London, Jack 180, 222, 247 Pacific Heights and the
see also Drive; Tours; Walks Louise M. Davies Symphony Marina 74–5
Ivanitsky, Oleg N. 69 Hall 164–5 Presidio and the Richmond
Lower Haight Neighborhood District 62–3
J Lucas, George 71 Marina, the see Pacific Heights
180–81
and the Marina
Jack London State Historic Park Lyon Street Steps 49, 71 Marina Green 28, 84
247 Marin County 216–221
Jackson Square Historic District M getting to know 212
37, 144, 154 hotels 219
Japanese Tea Garden 198–9, Madame Tussaud’s 100, 109 restaurants 217
206 Maiden Lane 150 walk 220–21
Japantown 78–9 Maki, Fumihiko 141 Marin Headlands walk 220–21
Jefferson Airplane 54, 202 Maps Maritime Museum 29, 102
Johns, Jasper 140 A Driving Tour: 49-Mile Drive Markets see Shops and
Joplin, Janis 179 28–9 markets
A Long Walk: Around SOMA Martin, Peter D. 105
K A Long Walk: The Marin Matisse, Henri 31, 140
156–7
Maybeck, Bernard 141
Kahlo, Frida 31, 140 Headlands 220–21 McLaren, John 198, 204
Kavanaugh, Matthew 168 A Long Walk: The University McLaren Lodge 198
Kelham, George 149 of California Campus in Mendocino 250–51
Keller, Thomas 238–9 Berkeley 228–9 Merchants’ Exchange 147, 154
Kelly, George 97 A Short Walk: Aquatic Park Mexico 52, 125, 246, 248
Kerouac, Jack 91, 104 88–9 Military buildings
Kipling, Rudyard 149 A Short Walk: Chinatown Alcatraz Island 45, 94–7
Klee, Paul 31, 140 128–9 Fort Mason 76–7, 88
Kline, Franz 140 A Short Walk: Financial Fort Point and Crissy Field
Koret Playground 199 District 154–5 68

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Presidio 70 Contemporary Jewish Napa Valley Wine Country
Presidio Officers’ Club 68 Museum 148, 157 238–9
USS Pampanito 100, 108 De Young Museum 31, Nash, Graham 179
Milk (film) 56 194–5, 206 National and state parks
Index Milk, Harvey 47, 55 Exploratorium 41, 98–9 Año Nuevo 236
Fort Ross State Historic Park
Mills, Darius 146
Armstrong Redwoods State
Mint Plaza 153 246 Park 39, 245
Mission Cultural Center for GLBT History Museum 46, Mount Tamalpais State Park
Latino Arts 185 182 38, 44, 219
Mission Dolores 29, 37, 182–3 Healdsburg Museum 242–3 Muir Woods and Beach 14,
Missions History Park (San Jose) 235 39, 219
Mission Dolores 29, 37, Lawrence Hall of Science Pigeon Point Light Station
182–3 (Berkeley) 226 State Historic Park 237
Mission San Francisco Legion of Honor 31, 196–7 Point Reyes National
Solano de Sonoma 247 Lighthouse Visitor Center 219 Seashore 218–19
Mission, the see Haight Madame Tussaud’s 100, 109 Presidio 70
Ashbury and the Mission Magnes Collection of Jewish Sonoma Coast State Park
Mobile phones and Wi-Fi 261 Art and Life (Berkeley) 244
Mondavi, Robert 239 226–7 Nature sites
Monet, Claude 31, 196 Maritime Museum 29, 102 Año Nuevo 236
Money 254, 255 Musée Mécanique 103 Big Sur 251
Monterey 25, 248–9 Museum of the African Buffalo Paddock 203
Morgan, Julia 127 Diaspora 148 Land’s End 48, 205
Mormon Temple Visitors’ National Steinbeck Center Old Faithful Geyser 241
Center 224 (Monterey) 249 Seal Rocks 203
Motorcycling 45 Niles Canyon Railway 48 The Bay Area’s Natural
Mountain biking 44 Oakland Museum of Beauty 38–9
Mount Tamalpais State Park California 223 Nervi, Luigi 167
38, 44, 219 Pacific Heritage Museum Nightlife 15, 42, 104
Mrs. Doubtfire (film) 56 126, 129 Nob Hill
Muir Woods and Beach 14, 39, Phoebe A. Hearst Museum A Short Walk 130–1
219 of Anthropology see also Chinatown and Nob
Muri, John 219 (Berkeley) 226 Hill
Musée Mécanique 103 Randall Museum 181 Nobs of Nob Hill 127
Museum of the African Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! Noe Valley 185
Diaspora 148 Museum 101, 109 North Beach see Fisherman’s
Museums 14 Rosicrucian Egyptian Wharf and North Beach
Asian Art Museum 162–3 Museum (San Jose) 234
Bay Area Discovery Museum Tech Museum of Innovation O
41, 218 (San Jose) 234
Beat Museum, The 104 US Army Corps of Engineers Oakland 30, 31, 40, 222–4
Berkeley Art Museum and Bay Model Visitor Center Ocean Beach 202–3
Pacific Film Archive 216 Octagon House 83
(Berkeley) 226 USS Pampanito 100, 108 Oelrichs, Heinrich 127
Cable Car Museum 118–19 Veterans Building 167 O’Keefe, Georgia 140
California Academy of Walt Disney Family Museum, Old Faithful Geyser 241
Sciences 41, 192–3, 207 The 69 Old St. Mary’s Cathedral 124, 129
California Historical Society Wells Fargo History Museum Olmstead, Frederick Law 226
148, 157 144–5, 154 Opus One Winery 239
California State Railroad Music 42, 43, 165 Outdoor activites 44–5
Museum (Sacramento)
250 N P
Cartoon Art Museum 157
Children’s Discovery Napa 241 Pacific Coast Stock Exchange
Museum (San Jose) 234–5 Napa Valley 12, 238–41 147, 155
Chinese Historical Society of getting to know 214 Pacific Heights and the Marina
America 126 map 239 15, 73–89

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bars 80 Portola, Gaspar de 52 (Richard) Spreckels Mansion
getting to know 17 Portsmouth Square 125, 129 180, 187
map 74–5 Post 261 Richmond District see Presidio
restaurants 85 Powell Street Cable Car and Richmond District
shopping 82 Turntable 152 Rincon Center 148
walks 86–9 Practical information 260–61 Ripley’s Believe It Or Not!
Pacific Heritage Museum 126, Presidio 70 Museum 101, 109
129 Presidio and Richmond District Rivera, Diego 102, 140
Pacific-Union Club, The 127, 61–71 Rivers and lakes
130 getting to know 16 Lake Merrit (Oakland) 222–3
Painted Ladies 168 map 62–3 Russian River 247
Palace Hotel 148–9 Presidio Officers’ Club 68 Stow Lake 40, 201
Palace of Fine Arts 28, 36, 68 Psychedelia 164, 165 Robber barons 53
Panama-Pacific Exposition 53, Public holidays 255 Robert Mondavi Winery 239
68, 164, 166 Public transport 256, 257–8 Rockridge 225
Parking 258 Pumpkins 233 Rodin, Auguste 31, 196, 197
Parks 49 Rothschild, Baron Philippe de
Alam Square 41, 168 Q 239
Alta Plaza Park 80–81, 86 Rubens, Peter Paul 196
Aquatic Park 88–9 Queen Wilhelmina Tulip Garden Rules of the road 258
Buena Vista Park 180, 187 202 Russian Bride’s Attire, The
Corona Heights 181 (Makovsky) 196
Dolores Park 183 R Russian community 69, 70,
Duboce Park 49 246
Golden Gate Park 48, 199 Raising of Lazarus, The Russian Hill walk 112–13
Golden Gate Park Panhandle (Rembrandt) 196 Russian River 247
169, 186 Ralston, William 146, 148
Huntington Park 130 Rauschenberg, Robert 140 S
Ina Coolbrith Park 113 Reasons to love San Francisco
Lafayette Park 81, 87 and the Bay Area 12–15 Sacramento 250
Lincoln Park 204 Refregier, Anton 148 Saint-Saens, Camille 164
Marina Green 28, 84 Rembrandt 196 Saints Peter and Paul Church
South Park 41 Renoir, Pierre-Auguste 31 104–5, 111
Tank Hill Park 49 Restaurants Salesforce Tower 26, 55, 145
Tilden Regional Park 225 Beyond the Bay 249 San Francisco 60–207
Twin Peaks 28, 184–5 Chinatown and Nob Hill 122 1 Day itinerary 22–3
see also Gardens Civic Center and Hayes 3 Day itinerary 24–5
Passports and visas 254 Valley 164 7 Day itinerary 26–7
Penalties 259 Downtown and SOMA 137, A Driving Tour 28–9
Peninsula, The 230–7 141, 147 explore 10–11
getting to know 213 East Bay (Bay Area) 38, 223 getting to know 16–22
hotels 236 Ferry Building 12, 29, 136–7, San Francisco Art Institute
restaurants 233, 235 155 102–3
Personal security 260 Fisherman’s Wharf and San Francisco Arts Commission
Pescadero 237 North Beach 105 Gallery 165
Pflueger, Timothy 141 French Laundry, The 238–9 San Francisco Botanical
Picasso, Pablo 31, 140 Golden Gate Park and Land’s Garden 48, 200–201
PIER 39 14, 40, 100, 109 End 201 San Francisco for Shopping
Pixley, Frank 82 Haight Ashbury and the 32–3
Plazas see Squares Mission 182 San Francisco Giants 153
Point Reyes National Seashore Marin County (Bay Area) 217 San Francisco’s LGBT+ Culture
218–19 Pacific Heights and the 46–7
Point Reyes Station 216–17 Marina 85 San Francisco Live! 42–3
Polk, Willis 102, 141 Peninsula, The (Bay Area) San Francisco’s Architecture
Pollock, Jackson 140 233, 235 36–7
Polo Fields 202 Sonoma County (Bay Area) San Francisco’s Hidden Gems
Pony Express 145 243 48–9

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San Francisco Visitor Polo Fields 202 Lombard Street 103
Information Center 153 Spreckels, Alma de Bretteville Lower Haight Neighborhood
San Jose 234–5 80, 196 180–81
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk Spreckels, Claus 80, 180 Maiden Lane 150
Index Santa Rosa 245 Spreckels Mansion 80, 87 Old Fisherman’s Wharf
41, 230–31
(Monterey) 248–9
Squares
Sarria, José Julio 55 Alamo Square 15, 41, 168 Old Oakland (Oakland) 222
Sausalito 216 Embarcadero Plaza 146–7, Stockton Street 122–3
Schultz, Charles M. 157, 245 155 Telegraph Avenue
Sculpture see Art and sculpture Ghirardelli Square 101 (Berkeley) 226
Seal Rocks 203 Jack London Square see also Squares; Steps
Serra, Junipero 183 (Oakland) 222 Stroud, Robert 97
SFMOMA (San Francisco Jackson Square Historic Summer of Love 54, 165, 179
Museum of Modern Art) 31, District 37, 144, 154 Surfing 45, 202–3, 232
138–41, 157 Mint Plaza 153 Sutro, Adolph 184, 204, 205
Shakespeare Garden 198, 207 Portsmouth Square 125, Sutro Baths, The 205
Shaking Man (Allen) 142 129 Sutro Tower 184
Shockley, Sam 97 Union Square 151
Shopping 32–3 St. Mary’s Cathedral 167 T
Chinatown and Nob Hill 126 Stanford, Leland 53
Cow Hollow 83 Stanford University 236 Tank Hill Park 49
Downtown and SOMA 152 Star Wars (film) 71 Tap water 260
Haight Ashbury and the State parks see National and Taxes 261
Mission 184 state parks Taxis 258
Pacific Heights and the Steinbeck, John 249 Telegraph Hill Walk 110–11
Marina 82 Steps Temple Emanu-El 70–71
Shops and markets 32–3, 34 Filbert Steps 107, 111 Temples
Cannery, The 101 Greenwich Steps 107, 111 Kong Chow Temple 128
City Lights Bookstore 105 Lyon Street 71 Mormon Temple Visitors’
Crocker Galleria 150 Moraga Tiled Steps 49 Center 224
Ferry Building 12, 29, 136–7, Vallejo Street Stairway 102, Temple Emanu-El 70–71
155 113 Tin How Temple 124, 128
Gump’s 150–51 Vulcan Street Steps 181 Vedanta Temple 82–3
PIER 39 14, 40, 100, 109 St Helena 240 Theater 43
Rincon Center 148 Stinson Beach 216 Theater District 43, 151
Union Square 151 Stockton Street 122–3 Theme parks
Smoking, alcohol and drugs Stow Lake 40, 201 Children’s Fairyland
260–61 Strauss, Joseph B. 66, 67 (Oakland) 223
SOMA see Downtown and Strauss, Levi 183 Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
SOMA Streetcars 257–8 41, 230–31
Sonoma 246–7 Streets Thinker, The (Rodin) 196, 197
Sonoma County 12, 242–7 Cannery Row (Monterey) Thompson, Marion 97
bars 243 248 Tiburon 217
getting to know 214 Castro Street 47, 176–7 Tickets 257
hotels 245 Chestnut Street 84 Tilden Regional Park 225
restaurants 243 Clement Street 70 Time zone 260
Spas Cottage Row 84–5 Tin How Temple 124, 128
Calistoga Motor Lodge & Spa Cow Hollow 83 Tipping 260, 261
240 Divisadero Street 168 Tolls 259
Claremont Club and Spa 38, Dolores Street 182 Tours
225 Fillmore Street 80 A Driving Tour: 49-Mile Drive
Spa Terra at Meritage Resort Fourth Street (Berkeley) 227 28–9
240 “Gourmet Ghetto” (Berkeley) see also Itineraries
Speed limit 256 227 Train travel 226, 256, 258
Sport 44–5 Grant Avenue 122–3, 129 Napa Valley Wine Train 240
AT&T Park 153 Haight Ashbury 178–9 Transamerica Pyramid 54, 145,
Bocce Ball Courts 106–7 Hayes Valley 166 154

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Travellers with specific needs A Short Walk: Fisherman’s Z
255 Wharf 108–9
Travel safety advice 254 A Short Walk: Golden Gate Zoos and Aquariums
Trinity + St. Peter’s Episcopal Park 206–7 Aquarium of the Bay 40, 100
Church 81 A Short Walk: Haight California Academy of
Twin Peaks 28, 184–5 Ashbury 186–7 Sciences 41, 192–3, 207
A Short Walk: Nob Hill Children’s Fairyland
U A Short Walk: Pacific Heights Monterey Bay Aquarium 40,
130–31
(Oakland) 223
Union Square 151 86–7 248
United Nations 54, 127, 165, A Short Walk: Russian Hill Oakland Zoo 223
167 112–13 San Francisco Zoo and
Universities A Short Walk: Telegraph Hill Gardens 28
Stanford University 236 110–11 Sea Lion Center 100
UC Berkeley 226, 228–9 Walt Disney Family Museum,
University of San Francisco The 69
169 Warhol, Andy 140
University of San Francisco War Memorial Opera House
169 165
USS Pampanito 100, 108 Water Lilies (Monet) 197
Waters, Alice 227
V Watersports 44–5
Wave Organ 48, 85
V. Sattui 238 Websites and apps 261
Vaccinations 255 Wells Fargo History Museum
Vallejo, Gen Mariano 246–7 144–5, 154
Vallejo Street Stairway 102, What’s Up, Doc? (film) 81
113 Wi-Fi 261
Vedanta Temple 82–3 Wilde, Oscar 149
Vertigo (film) 56 Wildlife 39; see also Nature
Veterans Building 167 sites
Victorian Houses 36, 170–71 Wilhelmina of the Netherlands,
Visas 254 Queen 202
Vista Point 67, 218 Willet, Henry 125
Vistas 13 Wineries 238–9
Fort Point 67 Beringer 240
Marina Green 28, 84 Castello di Amorosa
Vista Point 67, 218 (Calistoga) 240–41
Von Meyer, Michael 204 Francis Ford Coppola Winery
Vulcan Street Steps 181 244
Gloria Ferrer Champagne
W Healdsburg 243
Caves 246
Walks Korbel Champagne Cellars
A Long Walk: Around SOMA (Guerneville) 245
156–7 Vintner’s Collective (Napa)
A Long Walk: The Marin 241
Headlands 220–1 Wright, Frank Lloyd 141, 150,
A Long Walk: The University 151
of California Campus in Wurster, William 141
Berkeley 228–9
A Short Walk: Aquatic Park Y
88–9
A Short Walk: Chinatown Year in San Francisco, A
128–9 50–51
A Short Walk: Financial Yerba Buena Gardens 142–3,
District 154–5 157

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Belcher 222-3t; Bildagentur-online / Schickert 125t; Tangen 12c; Rohan Van Twest 177tl, 201tr;
Jon Bilous 180-1b; Bob Masters 109br; Phillip Bond UrbanTexture 144br, 227b; Michael Urmann 207tl;
37tr, 221br; Kanwarjit Singh Boparai 192-3t; Martin Valigursky 236tl; David Wall 128bl; Michael
Dembinsky Photo Associates / Dominique Braud 24br; Warwick 4; Scott Wilson 67cr, 89br, 224-5b; World
Paul Brown 151b; Jan Butchofsky 198-9t; California History Archive 94crb; Zoonar GmbH 113tr; ZUMA
Dreamin 101tr; Cannon Photography LLC 34-5bl, Press, Inc. 156tr, 165br, 167tl, 232cl, / Jerome Brunet
112bl, 139cb, 242-3c; Scott Chernis 43t; Felix Choo 42-3b.
47br, 88bl, 102tr, 170cr, 171cl; Chronicle 66crb; Ronnie
Chua 40-1b, 152b; Citizen of the Planet 235br; Patrick AWL Images: Walter Bibikow 14t, 136-7b; Danita
Civello 36t; Classic Image 94cb, 118cb; Robert Clay Delimont Stock 48-9b; Sabine Lubenow 212.
39cl; Directphoto Collection 80t, 106crb; Curved Light
USA 123cr; Ian G Dagnall 42bl, 126-7b, 226t, 240clb; Bridgeman Images: SZ Photo / Scherl / Bridgeman
Ethan Daniels 37cl; Danita Delimont Creative 233tr; Images 53br.
David Sanger Photography 203cr; Joe Decker 232-3b;
Danita Delimont 41crb, 45bl, 118-9t, 204bl; Design Pics Charles Zukow Associates: 15cr.
Inc 31bl; Don Douglas 205br; Randy Duchaine 118c;
Daniel Duenser 50br; Everett Collection Inc 56cr, 57crb, Chinese Historical Society: 126tl.
67crb; Eye35 Stock 171cr; F8grapher 198bl; Michele
Falzone 78-9c, 130bl; Stephen Finn 187tl; Tim Fleming Coi: 34-5t.
185br; Zachary Frank 205t; Neil Fraser 156bl; Robert
Fried 244bl, 246b; Gado Images 99tr; GL Archive 95bc, Depositphotos Inc: Bertl123 68-9b; dell640 6-7;
97ca, 97br; Paul Christian Gordon 194bl; Granger srongkrod481 234bl.
Historical Picture Archive 118clb; Michael Halberstadt
30bl; Yuval Helfman 202bl, 220bl; Bill Helsel 18cb, Disney: 69tr.
132-3; Hemis 104b; Hero Images Inc. 42tl; Heyengel
26tl; History and Art Collection 53c, 162bc; The History Dorling Kindersley: Neil Lukas 97crb; Andrew
Collection 118fclb; The Hollywood Archive / PictureLux McKinney 170cl; Robert Vente 87bl.
/ Phil Bray 57cr; Peter Horree 81b, 125cr; Dave G.
Houser 242bl, 247t; Robert Huberman 169tr; Della Dreamstime.com: Ahfotobox 214t; Annalevan 200-1b;
Huff 78bl, 155br, 229br, 242cra; imageBROKER 206bl, Coralimages2020 162cr, 163, 195; Debsta75 95bl;
241tr; Interfoto 97tr; Anton Ivanov 193crb; Rich Iwasaki F11photo 103b; Giovanni Gagliardi 71t; S Gibson
79cra; Jejim120 170br; Mark A. Johnson 111br; Mariusz 214bl; Enrique Gomez / Frieda and Diego © Banco de
Jurgielewicz 51tl; Ei Katsumata 41cla; Matthew Kiernan México Diego Rivera Frida Kahlo Museums Trust,
113br; Art Kowalsky 18tl, 36bl, 40-1t, 114-5, 193cb; Mexico, D.F. / DACS 2018 141cla; Karin Hildebrand Lau
Kimberly Kradel 202-3tl; Bob Kreisel 70b; Chris 231clb; Pius Lee 72-3; Legacy1995 197br;
LaBasco 153cra; Lebrecht Music & Arts 54tl; Chon Kit Miniimpressions 222cra; Randy Miramontez 143t;
Leong 165t; Michael Lingberg 177cra; Andrew Lloyd Fergal Moran 51cl; Olgashuster 44-5t; Photopictures
37crb; Lucky-Photographer 236-7b; Ilene MacDonald Project 33crb; Radkol 193br; Sborisov 13cr;
166-7b; Stefano Politi Markovina 22t, 24clb, 105tl, Siempreverde22 53tr; Simathers 184-5t; Tifonimages
149tr; Mauritius Images Gmbh 27cla; Brian McGuire 29br; TobySophie 218b; Hakan Can Yalcin 144-5t.
94bc; Mike Kipling Photography 67bc; Mikle15 224tl;
Geoffrey Morgan 76-7t; Luciano Mortula 22bl, 54bl; Gallery of California Art, Oakland Museum of
Moviestore collection Ltd 56crb, 56bl; MShieldsPhotos California, 2012: 222bl.
22cl; Ilpo Musto 104cl; Naeblys 146t; Jonathan Nguyen
82b, 150tl; Ron Niebrugge 55tl, 152-3t; Nikreates 19, Geburtshaus Levi Strauss Museum: 183br.
110cra, 158-9, 162cra, / Shaking Man statue © Terry
Allen/VAGA at ARS, NY and DACS, London 2018 142bl; Getty Images: 500px / Josh Beam 2-3; Al Greene

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Archive 64clb; Sergio Amiti 26-7t; Archive Photos 52bc; colettecrutcher.com and www.aileenbarrtile.com 49cl;
Jordan Banks 8cl; Bettmann 55bl; Eddie Brady 230bl; segawa7 / Moraga Steps in San Francisco artists www.
Buyenlarge 52t, / Carol M. Highsmith 196br; colettecrutcher.com and www.aileenbarrtile.com 49tr.
Christopher Chan 136-7t; Yiming Chen 213t; Lachlan
Cunningham 76bl; DEA / W. Buss 54tr; Josh Edelson SuperStock: Age Fotostock / Kobby Dagan 50cr;
138crb; Sergei Fadeichev 50tl; C Flanigan 51cr; Mitchell Design Pics / Yves Marcoux 17bl, 90-1.
Funk 181tl, 252-3; EyeEm / Zann Goff 35cl; Sylvain
Grandadam 66-7t; Thearon W. Henderson 50tr; Adam TopFoto.co.uk: AP 95cb; Underwood Archives / The
Hester 219tr; Historical 54cb; Robert Holmes 83br; Image Works 66bl, 67clb.
Icon Sports Wire 55cb; Jasantiso 136bl; Jean-Pierre
Lescourret 20, 172-3, 178b; Kathryn Donohew Front flap
Photography 16c, 60-1; Keystone-France 64br; Kristine Alamy Stock Photo; Stockimo / Leelocke cla; The
T Pham Photography 39tr; Morton Kunstler 52clb; Picture Pantry br; Michael Warwick bl; Depositphotos
LimeWave - inspiration to exploration 15br; Michael Inc: Bertl123 tc; dell640 cb; Getty Images: peeterv cra.
Marfell 244-5t; Nicolas McComber 213bl; Tim Miley
8-9b; Arun Nevader 46-7t; Bill Oxford 21cb, 208-9; Map Cover
peeterv 122-3b; Pgiam 45cr, 238-9t; Photo by Alamy Stock Photo: Scott Wilson
Francesca Russell 27tr; Prab S 12clb; Steve Proehl 15t;
Ronniechua 100-1b; sf_foodphoto 35crb; Ezra Shaw Cover images:
50cl; Silver Screen Collection 56t; Smith Collection / Front and spine: Alamy Stock Photo: Scott Wilson.
Gado 162br; Jason Todd 49br; Underwood Archives Back: Alamy Stock Photo: Danita Delimont c, Scott
53tl, 53clb, 64crb; Westend61 217b; Barry Winiker 32t; Wilson bc; iStockphoto.com: Spondylolithesis tr;
Lawrence Worcester 46br; Xavierarnau 176-7b; SuperStock: Design Pics / Yves Marcoux cla.
Lingxiao Xie 44bl.
For further information see: www.dkimages.com
GLBT History Museum: 182bl.
Heath Ceramics: 32-3b.
iStockphoto.com: bluejayphoto 120cra; Chinaface 13t;
drserg 43br; / gregobagel /Vaillancourt Fountain ©
SODRAC, Montreal and DACS, London 2018 146-7b;
Pascale Gueret 107tr; Kondor83 238br; miroslav_1
250-1b; NetaDegany 215; nevskyphoto 50bl; rudisill
24cl; Spondylolithesis 48tl, 124bl, 168-9b.
Images courtesy of Legion of Honor / Fine Arts
Museums of San Francisco: 24t, 194cra, 194crb,
196clb, 196-7, 196crb, /Steve Whittaker 196cr.
Mary Evans Picture Library: Grenville Collins Postcard
Collection 64cb; Sueddeutsche Zeitung Photo 66ca.
Courtesy of the Napa Valley Wine Train: 240-1b.
Rex by Shutterstock: EPA / John G Mabanglo 33cla;
imageBROKER / Kohls 96-7t; Hans Kwiotek 99br.
Robert Harding Picture Library: AGE Fotostock / Gary
Moon 58-9; Arcaid 193cra; Frans Lanting 39br.

Courtesy of San Francisco Museum of Modern Art
(SFMOMA): 138bl, 196bc, 197clb, 197bc; The vibrant
Figures with Sunset (1978) by Roy Lichtenstein ©
Estate of Roy Lichtenstein/DACS 138-9t; Iwan Baan
31cr, / Alexander Calder sculptures in the garden © 2018
Calder Foundation, New York/DACS London 2108
141tr; Henrik Kam, 22cr, 139clb, 139crb, 139fclb; Joe
Fletcher 140b.
Shutterstock: Kristiina Kuslapuu / fragment of 16th
Avenue Tiled Steps in San Francisco artists www.

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Contributors Kat Rosa, Karen Misuraca,
Nick Edwards, Ella Buchan, Christopher P. Baker,
Gabrielle Innes, Sophie Blackman,
Jamie Jensen, Barry Parr, Dawn Douglas,
Shirley Streshinsky, Rachel Everett
Senior Editor Alison McGill
Senior Designer Laura O’Brien
Project Editor Robin Moul
Project Art Editors Bess Daly,
Bharti Karakoti, Priyanka Thakur
Factchecker Emma Gibbs
Editors Ruth Reisenberger, Rachel Thompson
Proofreader Samantha Cook
Indexer Zoe Ross
Senior Picture Researcher Ellen Root
Picture Research Ashwin Adimari, Ruchi Bansal,
Susie Peachey, Jane Smith, Sumita Khatwani
Illustrators Arcana Studios,
Dean Entwhistle, Nick Lipscombe
Senior Cartographic Editor Casper Morris
Cartography Rajesh Chhibber,
Mohammad Hassan, Jane Hugill, Jennifer Skelley
Jacket Designers Maxine Pedliham,
Bess Daly, Simon Thompson
Jacket Picture Research Susie Peachey
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little
DTP Azeem Siddiqui, George Nimmo
Producer Igrain Roberts
Managing Editor Rachel Fox
Art Director Maxine Pedliham
Publishing Director Georgina Dee






First edition 1994
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley Limited,
80 Strand, London, WC2R 0RL
Published in the United States by DK Publishing,
1450 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10018
The information in this Copyright © 1994, 2019 Dorling Kindersley Limited
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly. A Penguin Random House Company
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book 19 20 21 22 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to All rights reserved.
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for any consequences arising from the use of this of the copyright owner.
book, nor for any material on third party websites, A CIP catalog record for this book
and cannot guarantee that any website address is available from the British Library.
in this book will be a suitable source of travel A catalog record for this book is available
information. We value the views and suggestions from the Library of Congress.
of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, ISSN: 1542 1554
DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, ISBN: 978 0 2413 6007 1
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Gothic Pro