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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and comprehensive maps for exploring San Francisco and Northern California.

Cycle over Golden Gate Bridge, catch a ferry out to the infamous prison on Alcatraz Island or head out to Napa Wine Country to sample fine wine: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within color-coded chapters. Discover the best of San Francisco and Northern California with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide San Francisco & Northern California:

• Over 35 color maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of the city and a transportation map, help you navigate with ease
• Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
• Comprehensive tours and itineraries of San Francisco and Northern California designed for every interest and budget
• Illustrations and floor plans show in detail Alcatraz Island and prison, San Francisco's famous cable cars, Yerba Buena Gardens, San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, and more
• Color photographs of the city's notoriously steep streets, pretty shoreline, parks and gardens, plus California's extensive coastline, national parks, vineyards, and more
• Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Presidio, Pacific Heights and the Marina, Fisherman's Wharf and North Beach, Chinatown and Nob Hill, Financial District and Union Square, Civic Center, Haight Ashbury and the Mission, Golden Gate Park and Land's End, and sights beyond the city, plus major parts of Northern California, including Carmel, Mendocino, Napa Wine Country, Lake Tahoe, and Yosemite National Park
• Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the region's history, museums and galleries, architecture, LGBT community, and festivals and events
• Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop, and sightsee, plus transportation, visa, and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide San Francisco & Northern California is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to San Francisco and Northern California.

DK Eyewitness: Silver award winner in the Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards for Guidebook Series 2018.

"No other guide whets your appetite quite like this one." --The Independent

Planning a city break? Try our DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 San Francisco.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-03-06 21:19:37

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - San Francisco and the Bay Area

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and comprehensive maps for exploring San Francisco and Northern California.

Cycle over Golden Gate Bridge, catch a ferry out to the infamous prison on Alcatraz Island or head out to Napa Wine Country to sample fine wine: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within color-coded chapters. Discover the best of San Francisco and Northern California with this indispensable travel guide.


Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide San Francisco & Northern California:

• Over 35 color maps, plus a large-scale pull-out map of the city and a transportation map, help you navigate with ease
• Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
• Comprehensive tours and itineraries of San Francisco and Northern California designed for every interest and budget
• Illustrations and floor plans show in detail Alcatraz Island and prison, San Francisco's famous cable cars, Yerba Buena Gardens, San Francisco Museum of Modern Art, and more
• Color photographs of the city's notoriously steep streets, pretty shoreline, parks and gardens, plus California's extensive coastline, national parks, vineyards, and more
• Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Presidio, Pacific Heights and the Marina, Fisherman's Wharf and North Beach, Chinatown and Nob Hill, Financial District and Union Square, Civic Center, Haight Ashbury and the Mission, Golden Gate Park and Land's End, and sights beyond the city, plus major parts of Northern California, including Carmel, Mendocino, Napa Wine Country, Lake Tahoe, and Yosemite National Park
• Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the region's history, museums and galleries, architecture, LGBT community, and festivals and events
• Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop, and sightsee, plus transportation, visa, and health information

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide San Francisco & Northern California is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to San Francisco and Northern California.

DK Eyewitness: Silver award winner in the Wanderlust Reader Travel Awards for Guidebook Series 2018.

"No other guide whets your appetite quite like this one." --The Independent

Planning a city break? Try our DK Eyewitness Travel Top 10 San Francisco.

Many local couples register 1861–5. The rallies galvanized
their wedding present list with popular support in San HIDDEN GEM
the store. Gump’s has the Francisco for the Northern Frank Lloyd
largest collection of fine china cause, and this was instrum- Wright
and crystal in the US. ental in bringing California Architect Frank Lloyd
The store is also celebrated into the war on the side of the Wright experimented
for its Oriental treasures, Union. The square is at the with the use of ramps in
furniture, and the rare works heart of the city’s shopping the small V. C. Morris
in the art depart ment. The district; large department Gift Shop at 140 Maiden
Asian art is particularly fine, stores can be found here, Lane. It is considered
especially the remarkable jade including Macy’s and Sak’s one of his most
collection, which enjoys a Fifth Avenue, as well as major influential works.
worldwide reputation. In 1949 flagship stores. The square is
Gump’s imported the great bordered on the west side by
bronze Buddha and presented the famous Westin St Francis the title of San Francisco’s
it to the Japanese Tea Garden Hotel, and at the center there theater district. The two
(p198). Gump’s has an exclus- is a statue of Victory atop a 90- biggest venues are on Geary
ive, refined atmosphere and ft (27-m) column. This monu- Boulevard, two blocks west of
is frequented by the rich and ment commemorates Admiral the square. These are the
famous. It is also renowned Dewey’s victory at Manila Bay Curran Theater – which was
for its colorful and extra- during the Spanish-American built in 1922 and sports a
vagant window displays. War of 1898. grand carved ceiling and glass
chandelier – and the Geary
Theater, built in 1909 and now
21 = 22 the home of the American
Conservatory Theater (ACT).
Union Square Theater District Drama has flourished in San
Francisco since the days of the
 N4 @ 2, 3, 5, 6, 8, 9, 21, 30  M4 @ 2, 3, 27, 38, 45 Gold Rush, and great actors
v J, K, L, M, N, T  Powell– v J, K, L, M, N, T  Powell–
Mason, Powell–Hyde Mason, Powell–Hyde and opera stars have been
attracted to the city. Isadora
Union Square was named for Several theaters are located Duncan, the innovative 1920s
the big, pro-Union rallies held near Union Square, all within a dancer, was born nearby on
there during the Civil War of six-block area, giving the area Taylor Street.


























Union Square surrounded
by high-end stores such as
Saks and Tiffany & Co
151



150-151_EW_San_Francisco.indd 151 30/11/2018 12:07

d
Powell Street Cable
SHOP Car Turntable
 N5 ⌂ Hallidie Plaza,
Powell St at Market St
Alexander Book
Company @ Many buses v J, K, L, M,
N, T  Powell–Mason,
A labyrinthine,
EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA used tomes spread over Powell-Mason cable-car lines
Powell–Hyde
independent bookstore
with stacks of new and
The Powell-Hyde and the
three floors. Comfy
are the most spectacular
chairs dotted between
routes in San Francisco. They
shelves give you a
start and end their journeys
chance to sit down and
to Nob Hill, Chinatown, and
flip through the books.
Fisherman’s Wharf at the
corner of Powell Street and
 P4 ⌂ 50 2nd St
Market Street. Unlike the
¢ Sun ∑ alexander
book.com
the California Street line, the
Powell Street cable cars were
Hats on Post
built to move in one direction
Tucked inside the double-ended cable cars on
Victorian-era Shreve only – hence the need for a
Building, this charming turntable at every terminus.
shop stocks head- After the car’s passengers
turning headgear for have disembarked, it is Did You Know?
special occasions and pushed onto the turntable
everyday wear. The and rotated manually by the
vintage-look cloche conductor and gripman (the Both the Powell-Mason
hats and fascinators are person who operates the and Powell-Hyde lines
handcrafted by West “grip,” which by grasping or end near Fisherman’s
Coast milliners. releasing the cable, starts or Warf, but in different
 N4 ⌂ 210 Post St stops the car). Prospective areas.
¢ Sun & Mon customers for the return
∑ hatsonpost.com journey wait amid an ever-
moving procession of street A cable car at the
musicians, shoppers, tourists, Powell Street cable
and office workers. car turntable

















152



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f
Mint Plaza AT&T Park, the home of
the San Francisco Giants
 N5 @ 8AX, 9R, 14, 27, and a statue of Hall of
45, 88X v J, K, L, M, N, T Famer, Willie Mays (inset)
 Powell ∑ mintplaza
sf.org
With plenty of outdoor chairs 25 26 "-=
scattered about, this public San Francisco Visitor AT&T Park
plaza offers a comfortable Information Center  Q5 ⌂ 24 Willie Mays
space to rest your feet or to  N5 ⌂ 900 Market St Plaza @ 10, 30, 45, 47, 81,
grab a bite after sightseeing @ Many buses v J, K, L, M, 82, 83 v E, N, T ∑ mlb.
near Union Square. Tucked N, T  Powell–Mason, com/giants/ballpark
away off Market Street, the Powell–Hyde # 9am–5pm
square is framed by trees, Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat & AT&T Park is the home of the
flower beds, and historic Sun) ¢ Nov–Apr: Sun World Series-winning San
buildings. The plaza is a ∑ sftravel.com Francisco Giants. For baseball
popular conduit for San fans, no trip to the Bay Area
Franciscans walking to work Enquire here for information would be complete without
during rush hour and makes on tours of the city and sur- catching a game here. The
for excellent people-watching. rounding areas, festivals, stadium is located right on
During the summer months, special events, restaurants, the water in the southwest
you will frequently find live accommodations, and sight- quadrant of the city;
music being played. The seeing. Maps and a wide range spectators at afternoon
original Blue Bottle café, of brochures are available in games are treated to spect-
renowned for its quality English and other languages, acular views and plenty of
coffee, is located just off the while a multilingual staff is on sunshine. Like everything in
plaza, and sandwich shops hand to answer any quest- San Francisco, the food
and lunch spots abound. You’ll ions. You can make enquiries options are top-notch for
also find popular restaurants by phone, or use their 24-hour stadium cuisine, with many
and wine bars for happy hour. information recording. local chefs collaborating on
independent food stands.
Outside of baseball season,
For baseball fans, no trip to the Bay visitors can come to enjoy
Area would be complete without other events at the park, from
Cirque du Soleil productions
catching a game at AT&T Park. to food festivals.
153



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A SHORT WALK
FINANCIAL DISTRICT




Distance 0.5 mile (0.6 km) Time 15 minutes
Nearest bus 1, 8AX, 8BX, 10, 12, 41
EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA centers in the US. It reaches from the imposing outlets and offices. A shopping
San Francisco’s economic engine is fueled largely by
the Financial District, one of the chief commercial
modern towers and plazas of the Embarcadero
Center to staid Montgomery Street, sometimes
known as the “Wall Street of the West.” All the
Embarcadero Center (p144)
principal banks, brokers, exchanges, and law offices
houses both commercial
are situated within this compact area. The Jackson
arcade occupies the first
Square Historical District, north of Washington Street,
three tiers of the towers.
was once the heart of the business community.
District (p144) recalls the
Gold Rush era more than
Hotaling Place, a narrow alley leading to Jackson Square Historical D AV I S S T R E E T
any other.
the Jackson Square Historical District, has WA S H I N G T O N S T R E E T
several good antiques shops.
C L AY
S T R E E T
B AT T E R Y S T R E E T
The Golden Era Building, START
built during the Gold Rush,
was the home of the paper
Golden Era for which
Mark Twain wrote.


Once the tallest skyscraper in the S A N S O M E S T R E E T
city, the Transamerica Pyramid
(p145) has now been eclipsed by
the Saleseforce Tower. M O N T G O M E R Y S T R E E T


The Wells Fargo History Museum
(p144) has displays on transportation
and banking. An original stagecoach,
evoking the wilder days of the old
West, is one of the many exhibits.
P I N E S T R E E T
The grand banking hall in the Bank of
California is guarded by fierce stone lions
carved by sculptor Arthur Putnam.



The former world headquarters of Bank
of America at 555 California was the
city’s tallest skyscraper until 1972.
Epic paintings line the
walls of Merchant’s
Exchange (p147).
154



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Did You Know?
The California Street DOWNTOWN
AND SOMA
Cable Car is double-
ended as there is no The Ferry
turnaround at the end Building
of the street. (p136) houses
gourmet shops Locator Map
and eateries. For more detail see p134





FINISH
The Gandhi
Monument (1988)
was designed by K.B.
Patel and sculpted by
D AV I S S T R E E T
Z. Pounov and S. Lowe.
It bears an inscription
of Gandhi’s words.

C L AY D R U M M S T R E E T
S T R E E T Embarcadero Plaza
S A C R A M E N T O (p146) is filled with
S T R E E T
lunchtime crowds
on sunny days.
C A L I F O R N I A 0 meters 100 100 N
S T R E E T
0 yards
F R O N T S T R E E T
California Street, busy with
clanging cable cars, sweeps
to the top of Nob Hill.
M A R K E T S T R E E T







P I N E S T R E E T




First Interstate Center,
home of the Mandarin
Oriental Hotel

The Pacific Coast Stock
Exchange (p147) was
once the focal point of The iconic Ferry Building at sunset,
the city’s trade. a San Franicisco landmark
155



154-155_EW_San_Francisco.indd 155 14/12/2018 13:20

A LONG WALK
AROUND

SOMA



EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA minutes Terrain Flat streets, busy with Montgomery Street N D Alexander S T E V E N S O N S T R E E T M I S S I O N S T R E E T S T R E E T
Distance 2.25 miles (3.5 km) Time 45
pedestrians and traffic Nearest BART
station Powell Street
1 S T
1 S T
S T E V E N S O N S T R E E T
Once a grubby warehouse district, SOMA (a
contraction of “South of Market”) is a model
Alexander I S S I O N S T R E E T
S T R E E T
of urban revitalization. This was once the
Montgomery
“wrong side” of the Market Street cable-
Street
2
car tracks when Gold Rush-era immigrants
2 N D
worked in the factories here in the 19th
M
Book Company
Salesforce
century. Today, a four-block square area
Salesforce
Transit Center
surrounding the Moscone Convention Center
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
(p143) is packed with major art galleries and
MONTGOMERY ST
MONTGOMERY ST
history museums, high-rise hotels, and shops, San Francisco’s impressive Old California California Book Company S T R E E T Transit Center
Historical
Historical
and on this walk you will encounter vestiges of Mint, completed in 1874 Society Society
S T R E E T
Cartoon Art
the city’s lively past among its dazzling 21st- Cartoon Art
Contemporary
century architecture. Contemporary Museum Museum
S T R E E T S T R E E T Museum Museum H O W A R D H O W A R D
Jewish
Jewish
SFMOMA SFMOMA
Turn left on Howard Street, then take a
St. Patrick’s
St. Patrick’s
right on 5th Street. At the corner of Mission M A R K E T M A R K E T 4 T H S T R E E T Church Church 2 N D S T R E E T
Street, you will see the magnificent facade H A W T H O R N E S T R E E T
4 T H S T R E E T
Yerba
Yerba
of the “Granite Lady,” the Greek Revival- Buena Buena
2 N D S T R E E T
F O L S O M S T R E E T
style Old Mint, erected in 1869–74 to make Gardens Gardens
coins from California gold and Nevada Powell Powell
silver. Its last coins were produced in 1937. Street Street F O L S O M S T R E E T
H A W T H O R N E S T R E E T
S T R E E T S T R E E T
3 R D S T R E E T R E E T
MINNA STREET MINNA STREET 4 T H S T R E E T BONIFACIO ST BONIFACIO ST LAPU LAPU STILLMAN STREET STILLMAN STREET
MINT MINT S T R E E T
3 R D S T R E E T
PLAZA PLAZA S T
4 T H S T R E E T
San Francisco
JESSIE STREET JESSIE STREET Mint San Francisco Pioneers Museum California RIZAL LANE RIZAL LANE LAPU ST S T R E E T S T R E E T
LAPU ST
Mint
California
Pioneers Museum
M I S S I O N M I S S I O N MARY STREET MARY STREET
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
6 T H S T R E E T O W A R D S T R E E T
CLEMENTINA STREET M S T R E E T
N AT O M A N AT O M A H O W A R D S T R E E T F O L S O M S T R E E T B R Y A N T B R Y A N T 0 meters 250 N 250 N
0 meters
TEHAMA STREET TEHAMA STREET 5 T H S T R E E T H A R R I S O N H A R R I S O N 0 yards 0 yards 250 250
6 T H S T R E E T
H CLEMENTINA STREET F O L S O
5 T H S T R E E T
Daniel Libeskind’s
extension to the
Contemporary Jewish
Museum, unveiled in 2005
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As you head north ­
east past Jessie
Begin at St. Patrick’s Stroll up to 2nd Street and
Church, a soaring brick Square, stop to turn left to find the Alexander
admire the
landmark built in 1851. Contemp orary Book Company, an old San
Notice the variety of Jewish Museum Francisco favorite with three
vintage and contem­ floors of treasures inside.
porary buildings that (p148).
characterize this
diverse district. On your way back down
Mission Street you’ll pass the
California Historical Society
1 S T
1 S T
(p148), where the colorful
S T E V E N S O N S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T story of the Golden State is
S T E V E N S O N S T R E E T
told through art and photos.
M I S S I O N S T R E E T
Montgomery
Montgomery
2
Street Street N D 2 N D Alexander I S S I O N S T R E E T
Alexander M Over the road is the Cartoon
Book Company Art Museum, with exhibitions
Book Company
Salesforce Salesforce of comic book superheroes,
Transit Center
Transit Center great women cartoonists, and
S T R E E T S T R E E T the work of Charles M. Schultz.
MONTGOMERY ST
MONTGOMERY ST
California California
Historical Historical S T R E E T S T R E E T
Society Society On 3rd St, admire the cylinder
Cartoon Art
Cartoon Art of SFMOMA (p138), one of the
Museum
Museum
Contemporary
Contemporary
S T R E E T S T R E E T Jewish Jewish H O W A R D H O W A R D architectural wonders of the
city, by architect Mario Botta.
Museum
Museum
SFMOMA SFMOMA
M A R K E T M A R K E T 4 T H S T R E E T Church Church 2 N D S T R E E T Cross 3rd Street
St. Patrick’s
St. Patrick’s
and take a stroll
4 T H S T R E E T
Yerba
Yerba
2 N D S T R E E T
Buena Buena H A W T H O R N E S T R E E T around the grounds
of Yerba Buena
F O L S O M S T R E E T
Gardens Gardens Gardens (p142).
Powell Powell 3 R D S T R E E T R E E T
Street Street F O L S O M S T R E E T
H A W T H O R N E S T R E E T
S T R E E T S T R E E T
MINNA STREET MINNA STREET 4 T H S T R E E T BONIFACIO ST BONIFACIO ST LAPU LAPU STILLMAN STREET STILLMAN STREET
MINT MINT S T R E E T
3 R D S T R E E T
PLAZA PLAZA S T
4 T H S T R E E T
San Francisco
JESSIE STREET JESSIE STREET Mint San Francisco Pioneers Museum California RIZAL LANE RIZAL LANE LAPU ST S T R E E T S T R E E T
LAPU ST
Mint
California
M I S S I O N M I S S I O N MARY STREET MARY STREET
Pioneers Museum
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
6 T H S T R E E T O W A R D S T R E E T
CLEMENTINA STREET M S T R E E T
N AT O M A N AT O M A H O W A R D S T R E E T F O L S O M S T R E E T B R Y A N T B R Y A N T 0 meters 250 N 250 N
0 meters
TEHAMA STREET TEHAMA STREET 5 T H S T R E E T H A R R I S O N H A R R I S O N 0 yards 0 yards 250 250
6 T H S T R E E T
H CLEMENTINA STREET F O L S O
5 T H S T R E E T
Take a detour down DOWNTOWN
Lapu Lapu Street AND SOMA
to visit the Alice
Now head for the Street Community
Society of California Gardens, run by
Pioneers Museum on local seniors and
4th Street, which was disabled people.
founded in 1850 and is
now home to both a Locator Map
museum and a library. For more detail see p134
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The beautiful Beaux-Arts City Hall






































CIVIC CENTER

AND HAYES VALLEY




The administrative center of San Francisco has as
its focal point the Civic Center Plaza, which features
some of the best architecture in the city. Its grand
government buildings and palatial performing arts
complex are the source of great local pride. The
former City Hall was destroyed in the earthquake
of 1906, creating an opportunity to build a civic
center more in keeping with San Francisco’s fast-
emerging role as a major port.
Adjoining this historic government district,
Hayes Valley has a much more humble history,
originally being used as farmland during the mid-
19th century. The area was long considered a
dangerous neighborhood, but with gentrification
Hayes Valley has become an upscale district full of
charming houses, boutiques, and restaurants.
159



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S T R E E T
S T R E E T S T R E E T VA L L E J O VA L L E J O S T R E E T
CIVIC CENTER AND HAYES VALLEY W E B S T E R W E B S T E R B U C H A N A N G R E E N G R E E N F R A N K L I N F R A N K L I N B R O A D W A Y T U N N E L T U N N E L
B R O A D W A Y
Must See 10 St. Mary’s Cathedral S T E I N E R S T E I N E R O C TAV I A O C TAV I A A V E N U E A V E N U E
B R O A D W A Y
1 Asian Art Museum 11 Alamo Square B R O A D W A Y V P A C I F I C P A C I F I C
B U C H A N A N
12 Painted Ladies S T R E E T A A
Experience More 13 Divisadero Street ST R E E T ST R E E T N N S T R E E T S T R E E T
V S T R E E T
2 Bill Graham Civic Auditorium 14 University of San Francisco W A S H I N G T O N
W A S H I N G T O N
S T R E E T
3 Louise M. Davies Symphony 15 Golden Gate Park Panhandle Spreckels Spreckels S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T
Hall J AC K S O N J AC K S O N MansionMansion C L A Y C L A Y
Grace
Grace
4 San Francisco Arts Commission Eat PACIFIC PACIFIC N N H Y H Y Cathedral Cathedral
Gallery 1 Pho 2000 HEIGHTS HEIGHTS LafayetteLafayette E S E D E D E
S
5 War Memorial Opera House 2 Brenda’s French Soul Food A lta Pl az aA lta Pl az a Park Park G O U G H G O U G H S S S T R E E T S T R E E T
Park
Park
C A L I F O R N I A
6 City Hall 3 Thai Idea Vegetarian C L A Y C L A Y S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T C A L I F O R N I A S T S T
7 Hayes Valley S T R E E T S T R E R E R E
8 Veterans Building S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T P O L K P O L K E T B U S H E T B U S H S T R E E T S T R E E T
S T R E E T E T
9 Great American Music Hall S T R E E T S T R E E T
C A L I F O R N I A
C A L I F O R N I A A A CHINATOWNCHINATOWN
THEATERTHEATER
AND NOB HILLAND NOB HILL
V
V
p114 p114 DISTRICTDISTRICT
E
E
F I L L M O R E
F I L L M O R E
N
N
S T R E E T
P I E R C E
P I E R C E
PACIFIC HEIGHTSPACIFIC HEIGHTS U E E
S T R E E T U
AND THE MARINAAND THE MARINA S T R E E T S T R E E T
p72 p72
S T R E E T S T R E E T G E A R Y G E A R Y
B U S H B U S H S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
O ’ F A R R E L L O ’ F A R R E L L Great AmericanGreat American
Music HallMusic Hall
First
First
B O U L E V A R D UnitarianUnitarian V A N OL I V E V A N OL I V E ST S T R E E T S T R E E T
B O U L E V A R D
ST
P A R K E R
P A R K E R
Church Church
CLEARY CT
PRESIDIO AND THEPRESIDIO AND THE S T R E E T S T R E E T G E A R Y G E A R Y CLEARY CT St. Mary’s St. Mary’s E L L I S E L L I S
MASONIC
MASONIC
RICHMOND DISTRICTRICHMOND DISTRICT P O S T P O S T HOLLIS HOLLIS Cathedral Cathedral STREET STREET STREET STREET L E AV E N W O R T H E L E AV E N W O R T H
p60 p60 AVE AVE WESTERNWESTERN ST W E B S T E R ST G O U G H G O U G H EDDY FR A NKL IN WILLOW N E S P O L L A R K I N K L A R H Y D E K I H Y D
EDDY
B O U L E V A R D ADDITIONADDITION FILLMORE FILLMOR W E B S T E R E L AGU NA L AGU NA P O L K S STREET N STREET
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O'FARRELL STREET
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TURK
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A V E N U E
A V E N U E
T ERRA VISTA AVE
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COOK
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San Franciso San Franciso
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A N Z A A N Z A EWING EWING AVE ENCANTO AVE A AVE BARCEL FORTUNA AVE ONA ENCANTO AVE E D D Y S C O T T S T R E E T S T R E E T Arts CommissionArts Commission Asian Art Asian Art
ST
ST
MuseumMuseum
T U R K T U R K ST R EE T ST R EE T Gallery Gallery CIVIC CIVIC
B RO D ERI
D I V I S A D E R O
A N Z
VISTA A VENUE
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A N Z A
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TERR TERR NIDO VISTA A VENUE STREET STREET Veterans BuildingVeterans Building CENTERCENTER SF Main Library
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AVE
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A V E N U E A V E N U E M c A L L I S T E R M c A L Opera HouseOpera House A V E N U E City A V E N U E City
S T R E E T
Hall
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P A R K E R
G A T E G A T E S T R E E T S T R E E T OCTAVIA OCTAVIA
P A R K E R
Louise M. DaviesLouise M. Davies
G O L D E N G O L D E N B A K ST R EET E R ST R EET Divisadero Divisadero F U L T O N F U L T O N STREET STREET Bill Graham DOWNTOWNDOWNTOWN
RO
TR
Bill Graham
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TERR
TERR
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Street Street Hayes Hayes Civic Auditorium AND SOMAAND SOMA
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University of S T R E S T R E E T Alamo Ladies Ladies H A Y E S H A Y E S ST R E E T S T R E E T ST R EE T ST R EE T
University of
L Y O N T R A L
M A S O N I C
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TERR A V E N U E
S T R E E T
San Francisco S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T E T Square Square L I N D E N L I N D E N STREET STREET
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0 meters 0 meters 500 N 500 S T R E E T N S T R E E T
Church Church S T R E E T S T R E E T
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S T R E E T
S T R E E T S T R E E T VA L L E J O VA L L E J O S T R E E T
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RICHMOND DISTRICTRICHMOND DISTRICT P O S T P O S T HOLLIS HOLLIS Cathedral Cathedral STREET STREET STREET STREET L E AV E N W O R T H E L E AV E N W O R T H
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EDDY
B O U L E V A R D
B O U L E V A R D ADDITIONADDITION FILLMORE FILLMOR L AGU NA L AGU NA P O L K S STREET N STREET
G E A R Y G E A R Y JeffersonJefferson FR A NKL IN STREET E T WILLOW N E S S STREET TURK AV E AV E S T R E E T


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TURK
W E B S T E R E
E L L I S S T R E E T
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
T ERRA VISTA AVE
T ERRA VISTA AVE
Civic
Civic
BLAKE
BLAKE
COOK
COLLINS
COLLINS
COOK
WOOD ST
WOOD ST
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Plgd
S T R E E T
Plgd
ST
S T R E E T ST S T R E E T BAKER ST FORTUNA AVE B RO D ERI C K BAKER ST D I V I S A D E R O C K S C O T T E D D Y S T E I N E R S T E I N E R Hayward Hayward G O L D E N G O L D E N S T R E E T G AT E S T R E S T R E E T E T Center Center
S T R E E T E T
ST
SPRUCE
SPRUCE
ST
ST
ST
A N Z A A N Z A EWING EWING AVE ENCANTO AVE A AVE BARCEL FORTUNA AVE ONA ENCANTO AVE E D D Y S C O T T S T R E E T S T R E E T Arts CommissionArts Commission Asian Art Asian Art
ST
ST
MuseumMuseum
B RO D ERI
T U R K T U R K ST R EE T ST R EE T Gallery Gallery CIVIC CIVIC
D I V I S A D E R O
A N Z
VISTA A VENUE
SF Main Library
A N Z A
BARCELONA
TERR TERR NIDO VISTA A VENUE STREET STREET Veterans BuildingVeterans Building CENTERCENTER SF Main Library
NIDO
S T R E E T BUCHANAN ST MALL S T R E E T War Memorial War Memorial
ST
ST
AVE
AVE
SEYMOUR
S T R E E T L I S T E R
SEYMOUR
A V E N U E A V E N U E M c A L L I S T E R M c A L Opera HouseOpera House A V E N U E City A V E N U E City
S T R E E T
Hall
Hall
G A T E G A T E S T R E E T S T R E E T OCTAVIA OCTAVIA
P A R K E R
P A R K E R
Louise M. DaviesLouise M. Davies
G O L D E N G O L D E N B A K ST R EET E R ST R EET Divisadero Divisadero F U L T O N F U L T O N STREET STREET Bill Graham DOWNTOWNDOWNTOWN
RO
TR
Bill Graham
Symphony HallSymphony Hall
Civic Auditorium
TERR
TERR
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ANNAPOLIS
ANNAPOLIS
TAMALPAIS
TERR
TERR
TAMALPAIS
BUCHANAN ST MALL
TERR
TERR
G ROV E G ROV E Valley p132 p132
ROSELYN
TRSELYN
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KITTREDGE
KITTREDGE
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CHABOT
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TERR
B A K E R N
C E N
TEMESCAL
TEMESCAL
S T A N Y A N
S T A N Y A N
Painted Painted S T R E E T S T R E E T M AR K E T MAR K ET
M A S O N I
S T R E E T Alamo
University of
University of S T R E S T R E E T Alamo Ladies Ladies H A Y E S H A Y E S ST R E E T ST R E E T ST RE E T ST RE ET
L Y O N T R A L
M A S O N I C
C E N T R A L C
A V E N U E
TERR A V E N U E
S T R E E T
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STREET STR M I S S I O N M I S S I O N S T R E E T S T R E E T
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PIERCE
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H A Y E S S T H A Y E S ST O A K O A K H O W A R D H O W A R D
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S T V E N U E
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A S H B U R Y O N
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S H R A D E R
C O L E A D E R
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S T S T
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S T S T
F E L L F E L L Park Panhandle AND THE MISSIONAND THE MISSION
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S T T
Park Panhandle
S T R E E T S T R E E T DIVISADERO ST DIVISADERO ST p172 p172 S T R E E T S T R E E T
O A K O A K HAIGHT S T R E E T S T R E E T
HAIGHT
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PARK ANDPARK AND P A G E P A G E C L A Y T O N
LAND’S ENDLAND’S END M A R K E T M A R K E T
C L A Y T O N G H T
p188 p188 H A I G H T H A I A V E N U E A V E N U E V A L E N C I A V A L E N C I A
BuenaBuena D U B O C E D U B O C E G U E R R E R O G U E R R E R O
V ista V ista Duboce Duboce CIVIC CENTERCIVIC CENTER
P ark P ark Duboce Duboce and Churchand Church AND HAYES VALLEYAND HAYES VALLEY
and Noe and Noe DOLORES DOLORES
0 meters 0 meters 500 N 500 S T R E E T N S T R E E T
Church Church S T R E E T S T R E E T
0 yards 0 yards 500 500 ST ST S T R E E T S T R E E T
160-161_EW_San_Francisco.indd 161 30/11/2018 12:07

1 "'-=
ASIAN ART


MUSEUM


EXPERIENCE Civic Center and Hayes Valley Heading up the grand staircase of the Asian Art Museum is like
 F5 ⌂ 200 Larkin St @ 5, 7X, 9, 19, 21, 31, 47, 49 v F, J, K, L, M, N, T
 Bart Civic Center # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun ∑ asianart.org
setting out on a historical and cultural tour of the world’s largest
continent. The 2,000 works on display celebrate both tradition and
history as well as the contemporary cultures of many Asian nations.
The Asian Art Museum is located on Civic
Center Plaza in a building that was the crown
jewel of the Beaux Arts movement in San
Francisco. The former Main Library, built in
1917, underwent major renovation in 2001
to create the largest museum outside Asia
devoted exclusively to Asian art. The museum’s
holdings include more than 18,000 art objects
spanning 6,000 years of history and represent­
ing cultures and countries throughout Asia.
There are also venues for performances and
festivals, a library, a hands­on discovery center, Facade of the Asian Art Museum, a Beaux
and classrooms. Work is underway on a new Arts building dating back to 1917
special exhibitions pavillion and art terrace,
due to open in early 2020, so some of the third
floor may be closed in spring 2019.

GALLERY GUIDE
Temporary exhibits are housed on the
first floor. The second floor is dedicated
to Japanese, Korean, and Chinese art
from 960 CE to the present day. The
third floor covers countries and
cultures from the Philippines in the
south east to Turkey in the west. Children painting copies of artworks
from the museum’s collection


1000 BC
The museum’s pair of
sculptures of Shiva and
Parvati are from the inner
sanctuary of a Hindu
temple in Cambodia.

Highlights c 1500 1870 2014
◀ This complex Buddha
▲ Covered in motifs
▲ This watercolour
sculpture from China’s
portrait of Maharaja
from Taiwnese culture
Ming Dynasty is made
of many small pieces Mahinder Singh of and folklore, Hung Yi’s
Dragon Fortune is a
Patiala was copied from
that were fitted together a photograph, which photogenic sculpture
before firing. was a common practice. outside the museum.
162
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Must See

































































A visitor admiring some
of the museum’s more
modern artworks
163



162-163_EW_San_Francisco.indd 163 30/11/2018 12:07

EXPERIENCE MORE



2 capacity to seat 7,000 people.
In 1992 its name was changed
EAT Bill Graham Civic in honor of Bill Graham, the
Auditorium
local rock music impresario
who was a pivotal figure in
EXPERIENCE Civic Center and Hayes Valley ¢ Tue ∑ pho2000sf.com auditorium.com 3 '
 M6 ⌂ 99 Grove St @ 5,
both the development and
Pho 2000
7X, 9, 19, 21, 31, 47, 49 v J,
promotion of the city’s
K, L, M, N, T  Civic Center
Tucked unassumingly
trademark psychedelic sound.
in the area known as
∑ billgrahamcivic
“Little Saigon,” this
Vietnamese eatery is a
This venue was designed
favorite with locals.
in Beaux Arts style (p36) by
 M5 ⌂ 637 Larkin St
Louise M. Davies
architect John Galen Howard
Symphony Hall
to form a major part of the
\\\
Panama-Pacific International
 M6 ⌂ 201 Van Ness Ave
Exposition. Orignally named
@ 7X, 19, 21, 47, 49 v J, K,
the San Francisco Civic
Brenda’s French
L, M, N, T  Civic Center
Soul Food
in 1915 and was inaugurated
New Orleans classics
Loved and loathed in equal
by the French composer and
made with regionally
pianist Camille Saint-Saëns.
measure by the citizens of San
sourced ingredients.
Francisco, this curving, glass-
The building was completed
 M5 ⌂ 653 Polk St Auditorium, the venue opened ∑ sfsymphony.org
∑ frenchsoulfood.com along with City Hall, in the fronted concert hall was
course of the massive constructed in 1980 – the
\\\ architectural renaissance that creation of architects
followed the natural disasters Skidmore, Owings & Merrill.
Thai Idea Vegetarian of 1906. It was built, together The ultra-modern hall is
A bright and breezy café with the adjoining Brooks named for the prominent
with a meat-free menu Exhibit Hall, beneath the Civic philanthropist who donated
of Thai specialities. Center Plaza. $5 million of the $35 million
Vegan options are also The Civic Auditorium now construction cost. It is
on offer. serves as the city’s main con- home to the San Francisco
 M5 ⌂ 710 Polk St ference center, and has the Symphony Orchestra and
∑ thaiideaveggiesf.com
\\\










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Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224

also welcomes many visiting The War Memorial Opera
orchestras and artists. 5 ' House, with its impressive
The acoustics of the building War Memorial Opera colonnaded facade
were disappointing when it House
first opened, but measures  M5 ⌂ 301 Van Ness Ave
were taken to improve them. @ 5, 7X, 9, 19, 21, 47, 49 a key venue during the 1945
After many years of negotiat­ v J, K, L, M, N, T  Civic conference which led to the
ions a new sound system was Center ∑ sfwmpac.org creation of the United Nations
installed. The interior was also Charter, and in 1951 it was
re designed, and the walls Opened in 1932, the War used for the signing of the
were resculptured to better Memorial Opera House, peace treaty between the US
reflect sound. designed by Arthur Brown, and Japan. It is now home to
was dedicated to the memory the San Francisco Opera and
of World War I soldiers. It was San Francisco Ballet.
4
San Francisco Arts THE SOUNDS OF 1960S SAN FRANCISCO
Commission Gallery
During the Flower Power years of the late 1960s, and
 M5 ⌂ 401 Van Ness Ave most notably during the 1967 Summer of Love, young
@ 5, 7X, 19, 21, 47, 49 v J, K, people from all over the US flocked to San Francisco. They
L, M, N, T # 11am–6pm Tue– came not just to “turn on, tune in, and drop out,” but also
Sat ∑ sfartscommission. to listen to music. Janis Joplin, Jimi Hendrix, and the
org/gallery Grateful Dead all emerged out of a seminal music scene.
The Avalon Ballroom, now the Regency II theater on Van
Located in the Veterans Ness Avenue, was the first and most significant rock
Building (p167), this dynamic venue, pioneering the use of colorful psychedelic posters.
gallery shows paintings,
sculptures, and multimedia
works made by local artists.
Their website also lists public
artworks that can be found
throughout the city, including
some photography exhib­
itions at City Hall.


An orchestral performance
at the Louise M. Davies
Symphony Hall
165



164-165_EW_San_Francisco.indd 165 30/11/2018 12:07

is higher than the US Capitol brokers and theater-goers of
PICTURE PERFECT in Washington, DC. The upper the Civic Center. A few of the
A City Landmark levels of the dome are open local cafés and restaurants,
Towering at 307 ft to the public. such as Hayes Street Grill, had
(94 m) above street The restored building is at already begun to mix in with
level, City Hall’s dome the heart of the Civic Center the Hayes Street secondhand
makes the perfect complex and is a magnificent furniture and thrift shops.
subject for a memorable example of the Beaux Arts This was followed by an influx
photo – especially style (p36). Allegorical figures of expensive art galleries,
EXPERIENCE Civic Center and Hayes Valley 6 ' leads into the marble-floored boutiques – all of which has
during one of the light
evoking the city’s Gold Rush
interior design shops, top-
shows that illuminate
notch restaurants, trendy
past can be seen in the
the exterior for events
pediment above the main
nightspots, craft coffee
and holidays.
Polk Street entrance, which
roasters, and clothing
transformed the area into one
Rotunda. Guided tours of City
of San Francisco’s coolest
Hall are available on week-
neighborhoods.
days; see the website for
City Hall
details on booking.
 M5 ⌂ 400 Van Ness Ave
@ 5, 7X, 9, 19, 21, 47, 49
7
v J, K, L, M, N, T # 8am–8pm
Mon–Fri ∑ sfciviccenter.
org/visit
 L6 @ 6, 7, 21, 22
City Hall, completed in 1915,
just in time for the start of the Hayes Valley
Just west of City Hall, Hayes
Panama-Pacific International Valley became one of San
Exposition, was designed by Francisco’s trendier leisure
Arthur Brown when he was at districts after US 101 highway
the height of his career. The was badly damaged in the
original building was comp- Loma Prieta earthquake of
letely destroyed in the 1906 1989. The road was then torn
earth quake. Its grand Baroque down, having previously
golden dome was modeled on cut Hayes Valley off from
St. Peter’s Church in Rome and the wealthy power

























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9
Great American
Music Hall
 M5 ⌂ 859 O’Farrell St
§ 885-0750 @ 19, 31, 38,
47, 49
Built in 1907 as a place for
bawdy comedy shows, the
Great American Music Hall is
now an excellent per formance
space, with a rich interior
containing tall marble
columns and elaborate bal­
conies, adorned with ornate
gilt plasterwork. The venue is
intimate and stylish, and the
Brandon Flowers performing with The Killers views are good from almost
at the Great American Music Hall every table. Famous artists
such as Carmen McCrae, B. B.
King, Duke Ellington, Van
was rededicated in 2015 after Morrison, and Tom Paxton
8 ' the opening of a 3,000 sq ft have played every kind of
Veterans Building (280 sq m) art gallery. In music here, from blues to
addition to displays of historic rock ’n’ roll.
 M5 ⌂ 401 Van Ness Ave
@ 5, 7X, 9, 19, 21, 47, 49 v J, weapons, there are showcases
K, L, M, N, T ∑ sfwmpac.org of military memorabilia. The
building is also home to the
Like its almost identical twin – Herbst Theater, a 928­seat 10 '
the War Memorial Opera classical music concert hall. St. Mary’s Cathedral
House (p165) – this building The theater was the site of the  L5 ⌂ 1111 Gough St @ 2,
was designed by Arthur signing of the United Nations 3, 31, 38 # 7am–5pm Mon–
Brown and built in 1932 to Charter during the San Fri & Sun, 8am–5pm Sat
honor World War I soldiers. It Francisco Conference of 1945.
∑ stmarycathedralsf.org
Situated at the top of
Cathedral Hill, the ultra­
modern St. Mary’s is the city’s
principal Roman Catholic
church and one of its most
prominent landmarks.
Designed by architect Pietro
Belluschi and engineer Pier
Luigi Nervi, the church was
completed in 1971. The four­
part arching paraboloid roof
stands out like a white­sailed
ship on the horizon. The 200­
ft­ (60­m­) high concrete
structure, which supports a
cross­shaped stained­glass
ceiling, seems to hover
effortlessly over the nave.
A sunburst canopy made
of aluminum rods sparkles
above the plain stone altar.


San Francisco’s City Hall,
built in Beaux Arts style and
topped with a splendid dome
167



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streets around Alamo Square 13
that the area has been
Did You Know? declared a historic district. Divisadero Street
 K6 @ 5, 21, 24, 31
“Painted Ladies” refers
to any Victorian and 12 A San Francisco hotspot that
Edwardian houses delights locals and visitors
repainted in three or Painted Ladies alike, Divisadero Street has
seen tremendous change in
more colors.
EXPERIENCE Civic Center and Hayes Valley 11 from the Queen Anne era, set is now chock-full of hip lunch
 K6 ⌂ 710–720 Steiner St
recent decades. Once a rather
& Hayes St @ 5, 21, 22, 24
dull, middle-class street lined
with cheap stores, Divisadero
These grand Victorian homes
spots, restaurants, indepen-
against the backdrop of the
Alamo Square
dent boutiques, bakeries, and
downtown city skyscrapers,
are a wonderful visual treat,
more. The street has a fresh,
 K6 @ 5, 21, 22, 24
creative vibe, with plenty
and one of the most
San Francisco’s most
of art and music, a weekly
photogenic spots in the city.
Also called “Postcard Row”
farmers’ market and lots
photographed row of colorful
and mistakenly known as the
Victorian houses, the so-
of community events.
“Full House house” (p57), the
The strip is the perfect
called “Seven Sisters” or
“Painted Ladies,” lines the
of a day. Start with brunch
found on the east side of
eastern side of this sloping
green square, which is located
and window-shop your way
grassy Alamo Square.
Designed by Matthew
down the street, enjoying the
some 225 ft (68 m) above the
unique shops and people-
Civic Center, giving grand seven Painted Ladies are place to spend the better part
Kavanaugh, with the last
views of City Hall backed by house completed in 1896, watching. Or stop at Bi-Rite,
the Financial District the houses are still private the famous upscale grocer,
skyscrapers. Alamo Square residences and tourists should to grab homemade ice cream
was laid out at the same time be mindful not to trespass or picnic lunch and head a
as the pair of Pacific Heights when coming by to admire the couple blocks over to Alamo
squares, but it was developed architecture and snap that Square to take in the jaw-
later and much more quickly, perfect photo. dropping views.
with speculators building
large numbers of very nearly
identical houses.
So many grand old
Victorian houses line the









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Divisadero is now
chock-full of hip
lunch spots,
restaurants,
independent
boutiques, bakeries,
and more.


r
University of San
Francisco
The leafy campus of the University of San
 H6 ⌂ 2130 Fulton St Francisco, on the site of a former cemetery
@ 5, 21, 33, 43 ∑ usfca.edu
Estabished back in 1855
as St. Ignatius College, the pilasters. Its buff-colored 15
University of San Francisco twin towers are visible from
(USF) is still a Jesuit-run all over the western half of Golden Gate Park
institution, though classes are San Francisco, especially when Panhandle
now coeduca tional and non- lit up at night. The church is  J6 @ 5, 6, 7, 7X, 21, 24, 33,
denominational. The land- regularly used for student 43 v N
mark of the campus is the graduation and convocation
striking St. Ignatius Church, ceremonies. The university This stretch of parkland, one
which serves as the chapel for campus and residential neigh- block wide and eight blocks
the university and as a parish borhood that surrounds it long, forms the narrow
church. It was completed in occupy land that historically “Panhandle” to the giant
1914 and built in exuberant formed San Francisco’s main rectangular pan that is Golden
Italian Baroque style, with cemetery district, on and Gate Park (p144). It was the
liberal use of columns and around Lone Mountain. first part of the park to be
reclaimed from the sand
dunes that rolled across west
San Francisco, and its stately
eucalyptus trees are among
the oldest and largest in the
city. The Panhandle’s winding
carriage roads and bridle
paths were first laid out in the
1870s, and the upper classes
came here to walk and ride.
They built large mansions on
the outskirts of the park;
many can still be seen today.
In 1906 the Panhandle was
a refuge for families made
homeless by the earthquake.
Today the old roads and paths
are used regularly by joggers
and cyclists.
The Panhandle is still
remembered for its “Flower
Power” heyday of the 1960s
(p165), when bands gave
impromptu concerts here.


The eye-catching “Painted
Ladies” Victorian houses,
facing onto Alamo Square
169



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VICTORIAN HOUSES IN SAN FRANCISCO
Despite earthquakes, fires, and the inroads of modern life, thousands
of ornate, late 19th-century houses still line the streets of San Francisco.
In fact, in many neighborhoods they are by far the most common type
of housing. Victorian houses are broadly similar, in that they all have
wooden frames, elaborately decorated with mass-produced ornament.
Most were constructed on narrow plots to a similar floor plan, but they
EXPERIENCE Civic Center and Hayes Valley Balustrades on porches can The pitched roof Tall cornices, often with
differ in the features of the facade. Four main styles prevail in the city,
although in practice many houses, especially those built in the 1880s
and 1890s, combine aspects of two or more styles.

Wide
the porch betray
decorative brackets, conceal
the origins of
be reached
a pitched roof.
the style in the
by a central
Deep South.
staircase.
over the main
A gabled roof with
facade often runs
lengthwise,
decorated vergeboards
allowing the use of
is the clearest mark of
dormer windows.
Gothic Revival.













Timeline Gothic Revival Italianate
(1850–85)
(1850–80)
These houses are the easiest
to identify, since they always The Italianate style was more
popular here than elsewhere in
have pointed arches over the the US, perhaps because the
windows, and sometimes over compact form was suited to
the doors. Other features are San Francisco’s high building
pitched gabled roofs, decorated density. The most distinctive
vergeboards, and porches that feature of the Italianate style
run the width of the building. is the tall cornice, usually with
The smaller, simpler houses of a decorative bracket, which adds
this type are usually painted a palatial air even to modest
white, rather than the vibrant homes. Elaborate decoration Neo-Classical
colors often associated with around doors and windows doorways on an
later styles. is another typical feature. Italianate house



170



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Adjoining Wide bands of trim
front doors often form a decorative The curved window
are protected truss, emphasizing the frame is not itself
by a single underlying structure of characteristic of
projecting Stick houses. Queen Anne style,
porch. but many houses
Round, square, and include features
polygonal turrets are borrowed from
typical of Queen other styles.
Anne-style houses.

Gable pedi-
ments hold
Decorative ornamental
gables filled windows and
with “sunburst” decorative
motifs are used panels.
on porches and
window frames.

























Stick Queen Anne
(1860–90) (1875–1905) WHERE TO
FIND THEM
This style is perhaps the most The name “Queen Anne” does
prevalent among Victorian houses not refer to a historical period; Haas-Lilienthal
in the city. Sometimes also it was coined by the English House (p83)
called “Stick-Eastlake” after architect Richard Shaw. Queen Octagon House (p83)
London furniture designer Anne houses freely combine
Charles Eastlake, the style was elements from many decorative Pacific Heights (p86)
intended to be architecturally traditions, but are marked by Painted Ladies (p168)
“honest.” Vertical lines are their turrets and towers and
emphasized, both in the large, often decorative, panels (Richard) Spreckels
wood-frame structure and in on wall surfaces. Most houses Mansion (p180)
ornamentation. Bay windows, also display intricate spindle- Clarke’s Folly (p182)
false gabled cornices and square work on balustrades, porches,
corners are key identifiers. and roof trusses.



171



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Pro, Soho Pro

Colourful exteriors of Haight Ashbury’s Vitorian houses










































HAIGHT ASHBURY

AND THE MISSION



To the north of Twin Peaks – two windswept hills
rising 900 ft (274 m) above the city – lies Haight
Ashbury. With its rows of beautiful late Victorian
houses, it is mostly inhabited by the wealthy
middle classes, although this is where thousands
of hippies lived in the 1960s. The Castro District,
to the east, is the center of San Francisco’s gay
community. Well-known for its wild hedonism in
the 1970s, the area is quieter these days, although
its cafés and shops are still lively.
The Mission District, farther east still, was
originally settled by Spanish monks and is home to
many Hispanics.
173



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HAIGHT ASHBURY S T R E E T S T R E E T B U S H B U S H S T R E E T S T R E E T
C A L I F O R N I A
AND THE MISSION C A L I F O R N I A S T R E E T S T R E E T P O L K P O L K H Y D E H Y D E
Trinity+Trinity+
B U S H B U S H St. Peter's St. Peter's
EpiscopalEpiscopal
Must Sees 13 Sutro Tower S T E I N E R S T E I N E R
1 Castro Street 14 Twin Peaks S T R E E T S T R E E T G E A R Y G E A R Y S T R E E T S T R E E T AND THE MISSIONAND THE MISSION
HAIGHT ASHBURYHAIGHT ASHBURY
2 Haight Ashbury 15 Mission Cultural Center P O S T P O S T
for Latino Arts St. Mary’s St. Mary’s G O U G H V A N S T R E E T V A N S T R E E T
Experience More 16 Noe Valley S T R E E T S T R E E T Cathedral Cathedral
G O U G H
3 (Richard) Spreckels Mansion 17 Carnaval Mural S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T E E T S T R E E T
4 Buena Vista Park FILLMORE W E B S T E R FILLMORE W E B S T E R S T R E E T S T R
5 Lower Haight Neighborhood Eat T U R K T U R K N E S S N E S S Civic Civic
6 Randall Museum 1 LolÓ D I V I S A D E R O S C O T T D I V I S A D E R O S C O T T S T R E E T S T R E E T Center Center 6 T H R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T
7 Vulcan Street Steps Shop M c A L L I S T E R M c A L L I S T E R CIVIC CIVIC S T R E E T S T 6 T H F O L S O M F O L S O M
8 GLBT History Museum 2 Loved to Death CENTERCENTER
M I S S I O N
9 Clarke’s Folly 3 Paxton Gate CIVIC CENTER ANDCIVIC CENTER AND A V E N U E M I S S I O N DOWNTOWNDOWNTOWN S T R E E T
10 Dolores Street 4 Cole Valley Antiques S T R E E T HAYES VALLEYHAYES VALLEY 8 T H E E T AND SOMAAND SOMA
A V E N U E
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
11 Mision Dolores 5 826 Valencia Pirate STREET STREET p158 p158 11TH S T R E E T S T R 8 T H p132 p132
S T R E E T
12 Dolores Park Supply Store S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T HAYESHAYES M A R K E T S T R E E T 9 T H S T R E E T
Van Ness Van Ness
S T R E E T 9 T H
VALLEYVALLEY 11TH 1 0 T H S T R E E T S T R E E T
1 0 T H S I O N
S T R E E T S T R L ILY E E T STREET STREET M I S S I O N
L ILY
STREET
STREET
PAG E
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H O WA R D
S T R E E T
Conservatory S T R E E T Lower HaightLower Haight ROSE ROSE SOUTH VAN NESS AVE SOUTH VAN NESS AVE H O WA R D S T R E E T S T R E E T
Conservatory
H A R R I S O N S T R E E T E T
S T R E E T
of Flowers of Flowers NeighborhoodNeighborhood H A I G H T S T R E E T
H A I G H T
F E L L F E L L S T R E E T S T R E E T McCOPPIN ST McCOPPIN ST 1 2 T H S S T R E E T STREET H A R R I S O N S T R E E T STREE T
P anhandleP anhandle
STREE T
GOUGH ST
GOUGH ST
ST R E E T
O A K O A K Haight Haight S T R E E T S T R E E T DIVISADERO ST DIVISADERO ST WA L L E R WA L L E R BUCHANAN ST ST R E E T S T R E E T BUCHANAN ST S T R E E T 1 2 T H S T R E E T STREET T R E E T
J O H N F. K E N N E D Y D R I V E
J O H N F. K E N N E D Y D R I V E
AshburyAshbury S T R E E T S T R E E T HERMANN HERMANN STREET B RY A N T B RY A N T
STREET
P A G E
P A G E
M I D D L E D R I V E E A S T
M I D D L E D R I V E E A S T S T A N Y A N S T A N Y A N H A I G H T H A I G H T C L A Y T O S T R E E T BUENA VISTA AVE EAST BUENA VISTA AVE EAST Duboce Park Duboce Park Duboce Duboce PARK ST PARK ST C E N T R A L
(Richard) (Richard)
Duboce
Duboce
A V E N U E A V E N U E
Spreckels Spreckels
SHRADER
SHRADER
D U B O C E D U B O C E
C E N T R A L F R E E W AY
MansionMansion
CLINTON
CLINTON
GOLDEN GATE PARKGOLDEN GATE PARK
and Church and Church
C L A Y T O N
S T R E E T N
AND LAND’S ENDAND LAND’S END ST W A L L E R ST W A L L E R DOWNEY ASHBURY DOWNEY ASHBURY Buena Vista ALPINE TERRACE and Noe and Noe SANCHEZ SANCHEZ G U E R R E V M S T R E E T S T R E E T HARRISON V E R M O N T V E R M O N T
Buena Vista
p188 p188 COLE COLE Park Park C A ST R E E T ST R E E T V A L E N C I AR O M A L E N C I A F O L HARRISON O L S O M
F
1 4 T H
S T R E E T S T R E E T C A S T R O Church Church LANDERS G U E R R E R OO R E S 1 4 T H I S S I O N 1 4 T H I S S I O N S O U T H STREET P O T R E R O P O T R E R O
ALPINE TERRACE
F R E D E R I C K
F R E D E R I C K S T R E 1 4 T H S T R O ST ST 15TH 15TH STREET F L O R I D A STREET B R Y A N T F L O R I D A B R Y A N T
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
S T R E E T T R E E T
D O L
LANDERS
S O U T H
Carl and Cole S T R E TRE STREET STRE STREET ET E T STREET STREET ROO S EVELT WAY ROO S EVELT WAY 15TH STREET STREET C H U R C H C H U R C STREET S O M 1 6 T H 1 6 T H S
Carl and Cole
S
15TH
Randall Randall
CARL CARL STREET E T ET PIEDMONT ST PIEDMONT ST Museum Museum STREET STREET S T R E E T S T R E E T FRANKLIN FRANKLIN
STREET
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D O L O R E SH
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
P A R N A S S U S
2nd Ave 2nd Ave P A R N A S S U S GRAT TAN STREET STREET ASHBURY ST L E VANT ST MUSEUM W A Y MUSEUM W A Y S T R E E T S T R E E T The NAMESThe NAMES S T R E E S T R E 16th Street 16th Street V A N AVENUE 1 7 T H AVENUE 1 7 T H
8 T H
8 T H
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Project Project
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Mission
Mission
HILLPOINT AVE HILLPOINT AVE WOODLAND AVE ALMA STREET STREET UPPER ASHBURY ST UPPER Vulcan Vulcan ORD ST STAT 1 7 T H Dolores Dolores S T R E E T N N TREAT M A R I P O S A M A R I P O S A A V E N U E S T R E E T A V E N U E
STATES STREET ES STREET
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S T R E E T
S T R E E T
TREAT
ALMA
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S T R E E TE T
S T R E E T T
Street Steps
Castro Street
ORD ST
RIVOLI
RIVOLI STREET STREET Street Steps Castro Street N O E Church Church MISSION E S S T ST R E E T ST R E E T
WOODLAND AVE
Castro Theater
MISSION E S S
N O E
CO RBETT AVENUE
1 7 T H 1 7 T H S T R E E T S T R E E T Castro Theater and 18th St and 18th St 1 8 T H 1 8 T H S T R E E T S T R E E S T R E M J A M J A KANSAS STREET KANSAS STREET
S T R E E T
KIRKHAM S TR E E T UPPER SERVICE UPPER SERVICE Tank Tank M A R K E T CO RBETT AVENUE S T R E E T S T R E E T HANCOCK HANCOCK S T S T S T R E E T T S T R E LINDA ST LINDA ST S T R E S T R E A V E N S T R E E T 18TH S T R E E 18TH
KIRKHAM S TR E E T
1 8 T H T
S T R E E T
7 T H A V E
7 T H A V E
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Hill
Hill
A V E N U E
A V E N U E
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GLBT
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19TH T
S T R E E T 19TH T
Par k
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19TH
BELGRAVE AVE
R O AD
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Mount Mount CASELLI CASELLI Clarke's Clarke's S T R E E T S T R E E T 2 0 T H 2 0 T H S T R E E T S T R E E T L I C K L I C K
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STREET
A V E N U E
S T R E E T U E
LO C K
Sutro Sutro CO R BETT CO R BETT 19TH STREET 19TH Folly Folly Dolores Dolores
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LO C K
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Park E T
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STR EET
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Honda Honda WAY PEAKS BOULEVA RD PEAKS BOULEVA G ARDEN CORBETT RDEN G A HOFFMAN HOFFMAN ELIZABETH ELIZABETH S T R E E and 24th St and 24th St 24th Street 24th Street S T V E N U E S T V E N U E
S T R
G U E R R E R O
L A G U N A H O N D A B O U L E V A R D
WARREN U N A H O N D A B O U L E V A R D
SKY V I EW D TWIN Peaks TWIN Peaks M A R K E T M A R K E T AVENUE S T R E E T ENUE S T R E E T J E R S E Y J E R S E Y SA N CH EZ ST R E E T T R E EZ ST R E E T T R E S T R E E S T R E E T S T R E E T 2 5 T H S T R E E
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CLARENDON AVEN UE
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O
S T R E E T
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S
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Twin
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AV
25TH
25TH
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STREET
STREET
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CLIPPER CLIP ST REET E T ST REET E T Mission Cultural 2 6 T H 2 6 T H S T R E E T S T R E E T
GLADEVIEW WAY R I V E
D R I V E
Center for Latino Arts
Forest HillForest Hill S T R E E T S T R E E T Valley Valley ST R Center for Latino Arts


C
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Forest HillForest Hill S T R E E T S T R E E T Valley Valley ST R Center for Latino Arts
Center for Latino Arts


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1 \-=
CASTRO STREET



 D2 @ 24, 33, 35, 37 v F, K, L, M, T
The hilly neighborhood around Castro Street between Twin Peaks
and the Mission District is the heart of San Francisco’s high-profile
EXPERIENCE Haight Ashbury and the Mission Focused on the intersection of Castro Street large windows that made it the first gay bar
LGBT+ community. It’s a lively district of entertainment venues and
nightlife with a side of beautiful architecture and proud history.


and 18th Street, the self-proclaimed “Gayest
where passersby could see inside. Though the
Four Corners of the World” emerged as an
many shops and restaurants attract all kinds
LGBT+ nexus during the 1970s. Gay people of
of people, the Castro’s openly queer identity
the Flower Power generation moved into this
has made it a place of pilgrimage for people in
the LGBT+ community. It symbolizes for this
predominantly working-class district and
minority group a freedom not generally found
began restoring Victorian houses and setting
in cities elsewhere.
up businesses. They also opened gay bars
including Mary Ellen Cunha and Peggy
Forster’s Twin Peaks Tavern (www.
twinpeakstavern.com) on the corner of Castro
The Castro’s openly queer identity
Street and 17th Street. Unlike earlier bars,
has made it a place of pilgrimage
where gay people had to hide in dark corners
for LGBT+ people.
out of public view, the Twin Peaks Tavern had


























A rainbow-colored street
crossing and the famous Twin
Peaks Tavern (inset)
176



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Must See

THE CASTRO THEATER
Completed in 1922, this brightly lit
neon marquee is a Castro Street
landmark. It is the most sumptuous
and best preserved of San Francisco’s
neighborhood film palaces, with a
lavish interior inspired by Arabian
Nights and a glorious Wurlitzer organ
that rises from the floor between
screenings. The venue hosts the San
Francisco International LGBT Film
Festival, held each June.


Rainbow Honor Walk
Bronze plaques on the Castro Street sidewalk
commemorate important figures in the
international LGBT+ community. Whilst the
honorees come from various backgrounds,
they all shared in the battle for equality and
are held up as inspirational figures in this
walk of fame. Names range from famous
artists like Freddie Mercury to local heroes
like Major League Baseball’s Glenn Burke,
who is credited with inventing the high five.













































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2 \-=
HAIGHT


ASHBURY


EXPERIENCE Haight Ashbury and the Mission an aura of the past can still be found in its congenial
 C1 @ 5, 6, 7, 24, 31, 33, 37, 43 v N
The birthplace of hippy counterculture in the 1960, the
Haight retains its anti-establishment atmosphere, and

cafés and vintage clothing shops.
Taking its name from the junction of two
main streets – named after the San Francisco
pioneers Henry Haight and Munroe Ashbury –
this district contains independent bookstores,
large Victorian houses, cafés, and hip clothing
boutiques. The neighborhood’s origins date
back to the 1890s, when the area was rapidly
built up following the reclamation of Golden
Gate Park (p199) and the opening of a large
amusement park called The Chutes. The
district became a middle-class suburb –
hence the dozens of elaborate Queen Anne-
style houses (p170) lining its streets.
The Hippie Haight
After the streetcar tunnel under Buena Vista
Park was completed in 1928, the middle
classes began their exodus to the suburbs in
the Sunset. After World War II the area reached
its lowest ebb, and the big Victorian houses While North Beach became the
were divided into apartments offering low
rents. While North Beach became the place place for the beatniks in the
for the beatniks in the 1950s, many creatives 1950s, many creatives and free-
and free-thinkers began to venture to Haight thinkers began to venture to
Ashbury, as it was the cheaper place to live.
By the 1960s the Haight had become host to Haight Ashbury, as it was the
a bohemian community that was a hotbed of cheaper place to live.

















Street-side
seating at Cafe
Cole in the Haight
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Must See


































Italianate-style
Victorian houses
in Haight Ashbury

anarchy. A component of this “hippie scene”
was rock music, but the area stayed low-
key until 1967. Then the media-fueled
“Summer of Love”brought some 75,000
young people in search of free love, music,
and drugs, and the area became the focus
of a worldwide youth culture.


Vintage second-hand
clothing at the Decades
of Fashion store

FAMOUS FACES OF HAIGHT ASHBURY
Famous residents of Haight Ashbury include
American singer Janis Joplin,who moved to her
second-floor apartment at 635 Ashbury Street
with her lover Peggy Caserta in 1967. Band
members of The Grateful Dead lived at 710
Ashbury Street from 1965–68 but left after
the scene became too intense. Graham Nash,
the singer-songwriter, also lived in “The
Haight” in the 60s and 70s, in a house
opposite Buena Vista Park.


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EXPERIENCE MORE



3 winds up from Haight Street
to the crest, where densely
(Richard) Spreckels Did You Know? planted trees frame views of
Mansion the Bay Area. Many of the
Claus Spreckels trails are overgrown and
EXPERIENCE Haight Ashbury and the Mission confused with the larger and the most unusual of the many 5 \-=
 J7 ⌂ 737 Buena Vista
immigrated from
eroded, but there is a paved
West @ 6, 7, 24, 33, 37, 43
Germany to the US in
route up to the summit from
¢ To the public
1846 with just one coin
Buena Vista Avenue. It is best
in his pocket.
to avoid the park at night.
This house should not be
grander Spreckels Mansion on
Washington Street (p80). It
was, however, also built by the
eccentric mansions built in the Lower Haight
millionaire “Sugar King” Claus
Neighborhood
Haight since the 1890s.
Spreckels, for his nephew
Richard. The elaborate Queen
 K6 @ 6, 7, 22 v K, L, M, N, T
Anne-style house (p36), built
Halfway between City Hall
in 1897, is a typical late-
4
and Haight Ashbury, and
Victorian Haight Ashbury
home. It was once a recording
studio, and later a guesthouse,
of the Fillmore District, the
 J7 @ 6, 7, 24, 33, 37, 43
but is now in private hands.
Lower Haight neighborhood
Guests have included the
is an area in transition. New
Buena Vista Park rises steeply,
569 ft (18 m) above the
markers of gentrification line
acerbic journalist and ghost- Buena Vista Park marking the southern border
story writer Ambrose Bierce, geographical center of San the streets, such as hip art
and Jack London, who wrote Francisco. First landscaped in galleries, salons, eclectic
White Fang here in 1906. 1894, it is a pocket of land left boutiques, and shops,
The mansion is situated on to nature. A network of paths including Rooky Ricardo’s
a hill near Buena Vista Park.
Rows of Victorian houses,
many of them well preserved Guests have included the acerbic
and some palatial, are nearby. journalist and ghost-story writer
One of these, a block away at
1450 Masonic Street, is an Ambrose Bierce, and Jack London,
onion-domed house, one of who wrote White Fang here in 1906.



Splendid views of the city from
Corona Heights, home of the
Randall Museum
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Sunlight filtering
through trees in
Buena Vista Park

this unusual museum for
children. The Randall Museum,
a museum of natural history,
science, and the arts, has a
menagerie of over 100
animals, including a raccoon,
owls, snakes, tortoises, and
various sea creatures. There
are exhibitions on the Native
American tradition of basket-
making, as well as earth-
quakes and ocean life. The
emphasis of the museum is
on participation. It also offers
hands-on experiences with
wood working, ceramics,
Records – which sells rare and Highlights of the area’s creative play, theater, model
unusual records. These sit architecture include the railroads, and much more.
alongside inexpensive cafés, Nightingale House at 201 Corona Heights was gouged
bars, and restaurants serving Buchanan Street, which was out by brick-making oper-
a bohemian clientele that built in the 1880s. ations in the 19th century. It
were already in business in was never planted with trees,
the area. The combination has so its bare red-rock peak
created one of the most lively offers a panoramic view over
districts in San Francisco. 6 - the city and East Bay, inclu-
As in nearby Alamo Square Randall Museum ding the winding streets of
(p168), the Lower Haight  K7 ⌂ 199 Museum Way Twin Peaks.
neighbrhood is full of dozens @ 24, 37 # 10am–5pm Tue–
of beautiful, old houses built Sat ∑ randallmuseum.org
from the 1850s to the early 7
1900s, in the beautiful and Clinging to the side of Corona
elaborate styles that are so Heights Park, a dusty and Vulcan Street Steps
famous in San Francisco (p36). undeveloped rocky peak, is
 J8 ⌂ Vulcan St @ 37
Apart from a tiny figure
of Spock standing on the
mailbox of one of the houses,
there is no connection
between the popular Star Trek
series and this block of almost
rural houses climbing up
steeply between Ord Street
and Levant Street.
Like the Filbert Steps on
Telegraph Hill (p107), however,
Vulcan Streets Steps does feel
light years away from the busy
streets of the Castro District
below. The small vegetable
and flower gardens of the
houses spill out and soften
the edges of the steps, and a
canopy of pines muffles the
city sounds. There are grand
views of the Mission District
and beyond for those who
take on the climb.
181



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and surprising exhibitions and
programming. Discover treas-
Did You Know? ures from the archives of the
GLBT Historical Society that EAT
The GLBT Historical reflect the fascinating stories
Society hosts regular of this vibrant community.
events including Loló
A family-owned spot
readings, discussions, 9 with stylish decor and a
and screenings.
EXPERIENCE Haight Ashbury and the Mission 8 " @ 33, 35, 37 ¢ To the public 10  L/M8 ⌂ 974 Valencia
menu that’s equally
bold. This is Mexico via
Clarke’s Folly
the Mission District,
 K8 ⌂ 250 Douglass St
with an array of tasty
small plates.
GLBT History Museum
This resplendent white manor
St ∑ lolosf.com
house was surrounded by
 K8 ⌂ 4127 18th St @ 24,
extensive grounds originally.
\\\
33, 35, 37 v F, K, L, M, S, T
It was built in 1892 by Alfred
# 11am–6pm Wed–Mon,
Clarke, known as Nobby, who
noon–5pm Sun ¢ Tue in fall
worked in the San Francisco
and winter months
Police Department at the time
∑ glbthistory.org
of the Committee of Vigilance.
The house is said to have cost
This is the first full-scale,
stand-alone museum devoted
to the evolution of the
1890s. It was used as a hosp-
 E2 @ 22, 33, 48 v J
ital for a while. It is now
liberation of the gay, lesbian,
divided into private apart-
Lined by lovingly maintained
bisexual, and transgender
late Victorian houses (p36) and
ments, and its turrets and
community in the United $100,000, a huge sum in the Dolores Street
States. Though fairly small, other features make it a divided by an island of palm
the museum packs a punch, wonderfully evoc ative trees, Dolores Street is one
celebrating the city’s vast example of Victorian-era of the city’s most attractive
queer past through dynamic domestic architecture. public spaces. The boule vard
forms the west ern border of
the Mission District. It starts at
Market Street, where a statue
in honor of Spanish-American
War soldiers is over whelmed
by the hulking US Mint.
The Mission High School,
with the characteristic white
walls and red-tile roof of
Mission-style archi tecture, is
on Dolores Street, as is the
historic Mission Dolores.
11 "=
Mission Dolores
 L7 ⌂ 16th St and Dolores
St @ 22 v J # 9am–4pm
daily ∑ missiondolores.org
Preserved intact since it was
completed in 1791, Mission
Dolores is the oldest building
in the city and constitutes
The fascinating GLBT History
Museum, the first of its kind
in the US
182
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Dolores Park, popular with
sunbathers, tennis players
and dog walkers by day

the embodiment of San most of whom died in the into one of the Mission
Francisco’s religious Spanish great measles epidemics District’s few large open
colonial roots. The mission of 1806 and 1826, was stolen spaces. Bounded by Dolores,
was founded by a Franciscan and then returned in 1993. It Church, 18th, and 20th streets,
friar, Father Junipero Serra, stands on a pedestal reading, it is situated high on a hill with
and formally known as the “In Prayerful Memory of our a good view of the city center.
Mission of San Francisco de Faithful Indians.” Dolores Park is popular
Asís. The name Dolores during the day with visitors,
reflects its proximity to and dog walkers, but after
Laguna de los Dolores w dark can draw drug dealers.
(Lake of Our Lady of Sorrows). Above the park to the south
The adobe building’s 4-ft- Dolores Park and west, the streets rise so
(1.2-m-) thick walls have  L8 @ 22, 33 v J steeply that many turn into
survived without serious pedestrian-only stairways.
decay. Paintings by American Originally the site of the city’s Here are some of the city’s
Indians adorn the ceiling. main Jewish cemetery, Dolores finest Victorian houses,
There is a fine Baroque Park was transformed in 1905 especially on Liberty Street.
altar and reredos, as well as
a display of historical artifacts
in the small museum. Most LEVI STRAUSS & CO.
services are held in the In 1853 Levi Strauss left
basilica, which was built next New York to set up a branch
to the original mission in 1918. of his family’s cloth firm
The white-walled ceme tery in San Francisco. In the
contains graves of prominent 1860s he pioneered the
San Franciscans from the Gold use of durable blue canvas
Rush days. A statue hon oring to make workpants for
the graves of 5,000 Indians, miners. In the 1870s his
company began to use
metal rivets to increase the
The adobe building’s strength of stress points in
4-ft- (1.2-m-) thick the garments, and demand
increased. Levi’s blue denim
walls have survived jeans are now produced and
without serious worn all over the world, and
decay. Paintings by the company is still owned
American Indians by Levi Strauss’s
descendants.
adorn the ceiling.





182-183_EW_San_Francisco.indd 183 30/11/2018 16:44

EXPERIENCE Haight Ashbury and the Mission













13
an area of parkland with steep
Sutro Tower
and grassy slopes, from which
SHOP
you can enjoy incomparable
 G8 @ 36, 37 ¢ To the
views of the city.
public Indian Girl.” At the top there is
The quirky characters Marking the skyline like an Twin Peaks Boulevard
circles both hills near their
of both Haight Ahbury invading robot, Sutro Tower summits, and there is a park-
and the Mission extend is 970 ft (290 m) high. It was ing and viewing point from
to the locally owned
stores scattered along named after local landowner which to look out over the city.
and philanthropist Adolph
Visitors who are prepared to
their streets. Prepare Sutro, and it carries antennae climb up the steep footpath
for maze-like shops
filled with vintage for the signals of most of the to the very top can leave the
antiques, new age city’s TV and radio stations. crowds behind and enjoy a
curios, eccentric home Built in 1973, it is still much 360° view. The residential
design ideas, and even a used, despite the rise of cable districts on the lower slopes
few pirate treasures. networks. The tower is visible have streets that wind around
from all over the Bay Area,
Loved to Death and sometimes seems to float
 H7 ⌂ 1685 Haight St above the summer fogs that
¢ Tue ∑ lovedto roll in from the sea. On the
death.com north side of the tower there
are dense eucalyptus groves,
Paxton Gate first planted in the 1880s by
 L8 ⌂ 824 Valencia St Adolph Sutro. They drop down
∑ paxtongate.com to the medical center campus
of the University of California
Cole Valley San Francisco (UCSF), one
Antiques of the most highly rated
 H7 ⌂ 854 Stanyan St teaching hospitals in the
∑ colevalley United States.
antiques.com
826 Valencia 14
Pirate Supply Store Twin Peaks
 L8 ⌂ 826 Valencia St
∑ shop.826  J9 @ 36, 37
valencia.org
These two hills were first Fabulous view of
known in Spanish as El Pecho downtown from the
de la Chola, “the Bosom of the Twin Peaks
184


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17
The Sutro Tower, a TV and Carnaval Mural
radio mast and a prominent
landmark on the city skyline  M9 ⌂ 24th St and South
Van Ness Ave @ 12, 27, 48,
67 v J  24th St. Mission
GREAT VIEW One of the many brightly
Noe Valley Views painted murals to be seen
The neighborhood’s in the Mission District, the
eastern boundaries Carnaval Mural is painted
provide excellent above the House of Brakes
vistas. There’s a 30 per and measures an impressive
cent gradient on 24th 24-ft- (7-m-) high and 75-ft-
Street between Grand (23-m-) wide. It celebrates the
View Avenue and diverse people who come
Fountain Street, but the together for the Carnaval
effort is rewarding. festival. This event, held
annually in late spring, is
the high spot of the year.
young families. Named after Guided tours of other
its original land-grant owner, murals, some with political
the contours of the slopes, José Noe, the last alcalde themes, are given by civic
rather than following the (mayor) of Mexican Yerba organizations. There is also
formal grid that is more Buena, the area was first an outdoor gallery with murals
common in San Francisco. developed in the 1880s in Balmy Alley, near Treat and
following the completion of a Harrison streets. Many of
cable-car line over the steep these murals are protests
15 Castro Street hill. Like many against government injustice.
other areas of San Francisco,
Mission Cultural this once working-class
Center for Latino Arts district underwent wholesale
gentrification in the 1970s,
 M9 ⌂ 2868 Mission St Did You Know?
@ 12, 14, 27, 36, 49 v J resulting in today’s engaging
 24th St. Mission # 10am– mix of boutiques, bars, and The Carnaval Mural
5pm Tue–Sat ∑ mission restaurants. The Noe Valley was created in 1983 by
Ministry, at 1021 Sanchez
culturalcenter.org muralist Daniel Galvez
Street, is a late 1880s with the help of
This dynamic arts center Presbyterian church in the local artists.
displays and promotes Latino “Stick Style” (p36), with an
culture. It offers classes emphasis on vertical lines.
and workshops including
Argentine tango, Brazilian
samba, and guitar, and
stages theatrical events and
temporary exhi bitions in its
gallery. One of the highlights
of its calendar is the parade
held in November to celebrate
the Day of the Dead (p50).

16
Noe Valley
 K/L 10 @ 24, 35, 48 v J
Noe Valley is known as
“Noewhere Valley” by its
residents, who are intent on
keeping it off the tourist map.
It is a comfortable neighbor- The Carnaval Mural, created in 1983 by
hood mainly inhabited by Daniel Galvez and a group of local artists
185



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A SHORT WALK
HAIGHT ASHBURY




Distance 1 mile (0.6 km) Time 15 minutes
Nearest bus 7, 33 center of the “Flower Power” world. It is
EXPERIENCE Haight Ashbury and the Mission residential area, but between the 1930s and and good cafés. This route takes you past
Stretching from the hilly Buena Vista Park to
now one of the liveliest and most bohemian
the flat expanses of Golden Gate Park, Haight
places in San Francisco, with an eclectic mix
Ashbury (p178) was a place to escape to from
the city center in the 1880s. It developed into a of people, excellent book and record stores,
some of the area’s main highlights.
1960s it changed dramatically to become the
The intersection of Ashbury
Wasteland, at 1660 Haight
Street Haight Street and
Street, is an anarchic used-
is where this area gets
clothing, curio, and furniture
its name.
emporium housed in a colorful
painted Art Nouveau building. It is
perfect for bargain hunters.
The Golden Gate
Park Panhandle
(p169) runs west into
the heart of Golden
Gate Park.

PA G E S T R E E T A S H B U R Y S T R E E T








C L AY T O N S T R E E T
C O L E S T R E E T
H A I G H T S T R E E T




START



The Red Victorian Bed
Cha Cha Cha (1801 and Breakfast (1665
Haight St) is one of Haight St) is a relic of the
the liveliest places to hippie 1960s. It caters to
eat in San Francisco, a New Age clientele
serving Latin with rooms with
American food in a transcendental themes.
variety of small dishes.


186



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HAIGHT ASHBURY
AND THE MISSION
Downtown San Francisco Locator Map
skyline seen from Buena For more detail see p174
Vista Park






OA K S T R E E T




0 meters 100 N
0 yards 100
LY O N S T R E E T
Through its mass
of twisting trees, the
C E N T R A L S T R E E T
dramatic Buena
Vista Park (p180)
offers magnificent
views over the city.
M A S O N I C S T R E E T





B U E N A V I S TA W E S T
No. 1220 Masonic Avenue is
one of many ornate Victorian
mansions built on a steep hill to
the south of Haight Street.

The grand home at
No. 737 Buena Vista
Avenue is (Richard)
Spreckels Mansion
(p180), built in 1897.
FINISH





Legs sticking out of the
window of the Piedmont
Boutique on Haight Street
187



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The arched drum bridge int he Japanese Tea Garden













































GOLDEN GATE PARK

AND LAND’S END



Lying to the south of the Richmond District (p60)
is the spectacular Golden Gate Park, a masterpiece
of landscape gardening, created in the 1890s out
of a sandy wasteland. Little grows here by chance,
and trees have been planted where they will best
deflect the prevailing winds. All shrubs and bushes
are carefully chosen to ensure there is color in every
season. More parklands lie to the north and west
of the Richmond District, linked by the Coastal
Trail. This is where rugged Land’s End, the scene
of so many shipwrecks, meets the sea.
189



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0 meters 0 meters 800 N 800 N
0 yards 0 yards 800 800


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GOLDEN GATE PARKGOLDEN GATE PARK
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C A B R I L L O B R I L L O Cabrillo Cabrillo A V E N U E Playground Playground F U L T O N U L T O N Conservatory CONSERVATORY DRIVE
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0 meters 0 meters 800 N 800 N GOLDEN GATE PARK
0 yards 0 yards 800 800 AND LAND’S END
Must Sees 14 Ocean Beach
1 California Academy of Sciences 15 Seal Rocks
P acif icP acif ic 2 de Young Museum 16 Buffalo Paddock
Oc eanOc ean 3 Legion of Honor 17 Lincoln Park
GOLDEN GATE PARKGOLDEN GATE PARK Experience More 18 Ciff House
AND LAND’S ENDAND LAND’S END 19 The Beach Chalet
4 Shakespeare Garden 20 The Sutro Baths
L I N C O L N B O U L E V A R D L I N C O L N B O U L E V A R D 7 Koret Playground Eat
5 McLaren Lodge
21 Land’s End
6 Japanese Tea Garden
1 Louis’
8 Columbarium
Land's Land's 9 Conservatory of Flowers 2 Crepevine
10 San Francisco Botanical Garden
End End 11 Stow Lake Drink
12 Polo Fields 3 Hockey Haven
Lincoln Lincoln 2 5 T H 2 5 T H 13 Queen Wilhelmina
Park Park E L C A M I N O C A M I N O M A R M A R Tulip Garden
E L
D E L D E L
Legion of HonorLegion of Honor 3 2 N D 3 2 N D 2 7 T H A V E T H 2 7 A V E 2 1 S T D 2 3 R 2 1 S T
2 3 R D
S T R E E T S T R E E T
C A L I F O R N I A I F O R N I A 1 9 T H 1 9 T H PRESIDIO AND THEPRESIDIO AND THE CIVIC CENTERCIVIC CENTER
C A L
Lincoln ParkLincoln Park RICHMONDRICHMOND RICHMOND DISTRICTRICHMOND DISTRICT AND HAYESAND HAYES
Municipal Municipal p60 p60 VALLEYVALLEY
LEGIO N OF HONOR DRIVE
LEGIO N OF HONOR DRIVE
Golf CourseGolf Course A V E N U E A V E N U E p158 p158
S T S
C L E M E N
The SutroThe Sutro C L E M E N T T R E E T T R E E T A V E N U E A V E N U E E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E B O U L E V A R D V A R D
B O U L E
SEAL ROCK DRIVE
Baths Baths SEAL ROCK DRIVE A V E N U E A V E N U E G E A R Y G E A R Y ColumbariumColumbarium
A V E N U
B O U L E V A R D E V A R D Argonne Argonne Arguello Arguello S T A NYA N S T A NYA N
B O U L
Park
Park
P O I NT L O B O S A V E N U E
P O I NT L O B O S A V E N U E G E A R Y G E A R Y Playground Playground PARK PARK S T R E E T S T R E E T A R G U ROSS I
G E A R Y B O U L E V A R D U L E V A R D
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Rocks
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Music
Music
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MIDDLE DRIVE EAST
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Tulip Garden
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Lake AVENUE
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Polo Fields
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Fly Casting Fly Casting Metson Metson Mallard MA RTIN MA RTIN Botanical GardenBotanical Garden D RIVE D RIVE Stadium Stadium
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Lake
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Mallard

MIDDLE DRIVE WEST J U N I O R D R I V E D R I V E Lakes L I N C O L N N C O L N W A Y W A Y
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Lakes
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S T R E E T S T R E E T 19th Ave 19th Ave p172 p172
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EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park nd Land’s End





















Did You Know?
The museum’s website
has live video cams for
exhibits such as the
1 "'\-= penguin colony and
CALIFORNIA coral reef.

ACADEMY


OF SCIENCES


 F2 ⌂ 55 Music Concourse Dr @ 5, 44 v N # 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm Sun
∑ calacademy.org
The California Academy of Sciences lets curious minds get close to nature with
exciting exhibits like an indoor rainforest, vast aquarium, and touchable tidepool.
The building itself blends in with the natural surroundings of Golden Gate Park, in
an environmentally friendly structure with a beautiful roof of local plantlife.

The California Academy of Sciences has (1-ha) living roof, which can be seen from
been located in Golden Gate Park since 1916, the rooftop deck, is designed to make the
settling into a new building in late 2008. It museum blend in with the surrounding
houses the Steinhart Aquarium, Morrison parkland. Explore the fascinating exhibits
Planetarium, and the Kimball Natural History at your own pace or flit between the many
Museum, and combines innovative green workshops and talks held throuhout the day.
architecture with flexible exhi bition spaces. Ther museum’s calendar is also full of lectures,
A lovely piazza is at the heart of the building. weekly late-night events for adults of 21 and
Filled with native plant species, the 2.5-acre over, and sleepovers for children aged 5–17.
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Must See

Morrison
Planetarium
Museum Highlights Visitors leave planet Earth behind
as stunning films send them
flying through space and time.

Living Roof
An observation deck offers

views of the park and allows
visitors to see the green
roof up close.














Visitors in the Osher Discovery Tidepool
Rainforest exhibit, a four-
story indoor rainforest Located on the main floor, this
exhibit allows visitors to touch sea
creatures from local rock pools.
T. Rex
MUSEUM GUIDE ▶ Part of the Kimball Natural
Steinhart Aquarium History Museum, the skeleton of a
displays are spread Tyrannosaurus Rex sits at the
throughout the museum entrance. This gigantic
museum, but most predator was the most powerful
of the tanks are on the carnivore ever to walk the earth.
lower level beneath the
Piazza. The main floor is
the gateway to all the
other key exhibits,
including the Kimball Steinhart Aquarium
Natural History
Museum, Morrison ◀ The amazing aquarium exhibit on
Planetarium and Osher the lower floor includes the world’s
Rainforest, with some largest indoor reef.
exhibits extending up
several floors. An
auditorium above the
cafe hosts traveling
exhibits as well as
special performances
and programs. The Tusher African Hall
third floor houses the ▶ Preserved animals from Africa
geology collection and are displayed here in lifelike
Naturalist Center, and dioramas. This area is also home
on the roof there is an to a colony of endangered
observation deck. African penguins (right).







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2 "'-=
DE YOUNG


MUSEUM


EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park and Land’s End copper-clad de Young Museum looms as a cultural and architectural
 F2 ⌂ 50 Hagiwara Tea Garden Dr @ 5, 44 v N # 9:30am–5:15pm
Tue–Sun ∑ deyoung.famsf.org
A bastion of American, Oceanian, and African art, the immense,
landmark above a canopy of plane trees in the Golden Gate Park.

Founded in 1895, this stunning gallery
suffered such bad damage in the Loma
Prieta earthquake (1989) that the structure
couldn’t be saved. However, an exciting new
facility opened in 2005 and has become as
much a city landmark as its predecessor.
The museum contains a broad range
of American art from the 17th century to
contemporary works. With pieces by Native
Americans, early immigrants, and African
slaves, the collection offers a look at the
diversity of American experiences and
cultures. Alongside displays of American origin
are exhibits from the Department of Africa,
Oceania, and the Americas, which owes its
collection mainly to donations. These have
developed into a broad and fascinating
selection of exhibits from cultures around the
world, and one of the most impressive textile Visitors admiring sculptures in
and costume collections in the US. the beautiful museum gardens


The Piazzoni
Mural Room and
sculpture of Diana
(inset) from 1889









MUSEUM GUIDE
The lower-ground floor houses
the special exhibitions. The
main collection is divided into
exhibits by geographical area
spread out across the ground
and upper floor. A sculpture
garden can also be found on
the ground floor.


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Must See




14,000


The number of items in
the museum’s textile
collection, from rugs
to costumes.




















































The tower and observation
deck on the north end of the
De Young museum





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3 "'-=
LEGION OF


HONOR


EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park and Land’s End and housed in a replica of the Palais de la Légion
 B5 ⌂ Lincoln Park, 100 34th Ave (at Clement St) @ 1, 18,
38 # 9:30am–5:15pm Tue–Sun ∑ legionofhonor.famsf.org
Set in the gorgeous natural landscape of Land’s End
d’Honneur in Paris, this museum features medieval
to 20th-century European art, and is famous for
hosting fanastic temporary exhibits.
Alma de Bretteville Spreckels (heiress to the Spreckels sugar
fortune) commissioned this museum in the 1920s to promote
French art in California, and to commemorate the state’s
casualties in World War I. It contains mostly European art
from the last eight centuries, with paintings by famous
figures including Monet, Rubens, and Rembrandt, as well as
over 70 sculptures by Rodin. The gallery also houses collections
on photography and ancient art covering 6,000 years of world
history and cultures. The Achenbach Foundation, a famous
collection of around 90,000 graphic works, is displayed in
rotating exhibits.


GALLERY GUIDE
The museum’s
permanent collection
is displayed in 19
galleries on the first
floor. Beginning at the
left of the entrance,
works are arranged
chronologic ally from
the medieval period
to the 20th century.





c 1880 c 1904
This Oval leaf molded The bronze cast of


plate was designed by Rodin’s The Thinker was
the famous Wedgewood made by Rodin’s
Factory. 1889 assistant, Henri Lebossé.
Gallery Highlights ▲ The Raising of ▲ Konstantin
1642
Lazarus, one of several
Makovsky’s The Russian
Bride’s Attire depicts a
hundred Rembrandt
Russian woman
works in the Achenbach
Foundation collection.
preparing for her
196 wedding day.


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Must See












































A gallery of European sculptures; the
museum facade (inset), inspired by a
historic palace in Paris

1924
The Skinner pipe

organ was built by the
Ernest M. Skinner Organ
Company, and is used
in organ concerts here
throughout the year.
c 1914
▲ This version of Water
Lilies is just one of
around 250 paintings A copy of
Monet created of the
water lilies in his garden. Rodin’s The
Thinker (c 1904),
outside the gallery





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EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park and Land’s End
























EXPERIENCE MORE



4 5 death in 1943. His portrait
hangs on the wall, and every
Shakespeare Garden McLaren Lodge December the cypress tree
outside is lit with colored
 F7 ⌂ Music Concourse,  H6 ⌂ Near junction of
Golden Gate Park Stanyan St and Fell St on lights in his mem ory.
@ 6, 7, 43, 44 the park’s east side § 831-
2700 # 8am–5pm Mon–Fri
Gardeners here have tried @ 7X, 21, 33
to cultivate all the plants 6 "-=
mentioned in William This sandstone villa, designed Japanese Tea Garden
Shakespeare’s works. The by Edward Swain, was built in  F7 ⌂ Music Concourse,
relevant quotations are 1896. As superintendent of Golden Gate Park @ 44
written on plaques set in a the park, John McLaren lived # 9am–6pm daily (Nov–Feb:
wall at the back of the garden. here with his family until his
to 4:45pm) ∑ japanese
teagardensf.com
This garden was established
by the art dealer George
Turner Marsh for the California
Midwinter Fair of 1894. Paths


Looking onto the
picturesque Japanese Tea
Garden from the Tea House
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200

The number of
different flower and public children’s playground Stunning cherry trees
plant species in the in the United States. In 1978 blossoming in the
Shakespeare Garden
Shakespeare it was redesigned with
sandboxes, swings, slides,
Garden.
and a fortress, and recent
additions include a wave- inspired structure that dates
inspired climbing wall. On the from 1892, children ride on
wind through the carefully Herschell-Spillman merry-go- brightly painted beasts
manicured Japanese trees, round, housed in a Greek- (additional fee required).
shrubs, and flowers. The
steeply arched Moon Bridge
forms a dramatic circular THE CREATION OF GOLDEN GATE PARK
reflection in the pond below. As San Francisco prospered in the 1860s, its citizens
The largest bronze Buddha to demanded the same amenities as other great cities.
be found outside Asia, cast in Prominent among these was a large city park, so city
Japan in 1790, is seated at the planners turned to a surveyor and engineer named
top of the garden stairs. William Hammond Hall. Hall started work at the east
end, laying out meandering roads and trying to create a
seemingly natural landscape. The developing park soon
7 proved popular: families came to picnic and young
Koret Playground dandies raced their carriages.
Despite the popularity of the park, it was nearly
 G7 ⌂ Kezar Drive, near prevented from reaching maturity by budget cuts and
First Ave § 231-0077 public corruption, with city officials siphoning off funds.
@ 5, 71 v N # Times vary, Hall was falsely accused of corruption and resigned in
call ahead protest. The park fell into a period of decline, but after a
decade of decay, Hall was asked to resume the task of
A great place for young managing it, which he agreed to do with the help of John
visitors who need to let off McLaren, who shared his passion and vision forthe park.
some steam, this is the oldest
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8 ecosystem. The original Well worth a visit
building, opened in 1879, was
Columbarium largely destroyed by a storm is the enchanting
in 1995. A campaign for its Moon-Viewing
 G5 ⌂ 1 Loraine Court repair was launched, and it Garden. It exhibits
§ 771-0717 @ 33, 38
# 8am–5pm Mon–Fri, reopened in 2003. East Asian plants
10am–3pm Sat & Sun 10 '= in a setting that is
naturalistic rather
The San Francisco
EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park and Land’s End once covered sizable tracts of  F7 ⌂ 9th Ave at Lincoln medicinal and culinary plants
than formal.
Columbarium is the sole
San Francisco
survivor of the old Lone
Botanical Garden
Mountain Cemetery, which
are grown in the Garden of
the Richmond District. Most of
Way, Golden Gate Park
Fragrance, which is designed
the remains were disinterred
@ 5, 7, 44 v N # Mar–Sep:
and moved to Colma in 1914.
for the visually impaired. Here
7:30am–6pm daily (Oct: to
This Neo-Classical rotunda
the emphasis is on the senses
5pm; Nov–Jan: to 4pm)
of taste, touch, and smell, and
houses the remains of 6,000
∑ sfbotanicalgarden.org
people in elaborate decorated
the plants are iden tified in
Braille. Another area is
On display at the Botanical
urns. Unused for several
planted with indigenous
decades, it was rescued and
Garden are 8,500 species of
restored by the Neptune
plants, trees, and shrubs from
California redwood trees,
with a small stream winding
Society in 1979. The ornate,
around the world. There are
bright interior under the
flora and atmosphere of a
dome has lovely stained-glass
American, and Australian
windows. The narrow pass-
northern Californian coastal
gardens, and one devoted
forest. There is also a New
to native California plants.
ages encircling the dome are
World Cloud Forest, with flora
remarkable for their acoustics. Mexican, African, South through. This recreates the
Well worth a visit is the
enchanting Moon-Viewing from the mountains of Central
Garden. It exhibits East Asian America. Surprisingly, all these
plants in a setting that, unlike gardens thrive in the coastal
9 " that of the Japanese Tea fog. The garden has a shop,
Conservatory of Garden (p198), is naturalistic selling seeds and books, and
Flowers rather than formal. Both also houses the Helen Crocker
 G6 ⌂ John F. Kennedy
Drive, Golden Gate Park
@ 5, 21, 33, 44 v N
# 10am–4pm Tue–Sun
∑ conservatoryof
flowers.org
This beautiful, ornate
Victorian-style glasshouse is
full of flowers and plants from
around the world, especially
from tropical zones. There are
five distinct galleries, each
focusing on a different
PICTURE PERFECT
Light Shows
The Conservatory of
Flowers is illuminated
with light projections
every night from dusk
to midnight. The
installation can be
viewed from JFK Drive
and in Conservatory
Valley – no admission
is necessary.
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