(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - San Francisco and the Bay Area

Russell Library of Horticulture,
open to the public. The shop
is the starting point for free
guided tours on weekdays at
1:30pm, and from 10:30am
to 1:30pm on weekends.


11 -
Stow Lake
 F7 ⌂ 50 Stow Lake Drive,
Golden Gate Park @ 28, 29,
44 # Daily ∑ goldengate
park.com/stow-lake.html
This artificial lake, created in
1895, encircles Strawberry
Hill such that the summit of
the hill now forms an island,
linked to the mainland by two Boating on Stow Lake,
stone-clad bridges. one of the park’s main
Stow Lake’s pretty circular attractions
stream is ideal for rowing laps EAT
on a boat rented from the
boathouse, though leisurely San Francisco in 6,000 pieces,
drifting feels more appro- then assembled on the island. Louis’
priate in this tranquil setting. The millionaire Collis P. Owned and run by the
The Chinese moon- Huntington donated the same family since 1937,
watching pavilion on the money to create the Louis’ doesn’t accept
island’s shore was a gift from reservoir and the waterfall reservations but it’s
San Francisco’s sister city that cascades into Stow Lake worth trying your luck
Taipei, in Taiwan. The red and and is one of the park’s most as a walk-in for stellar
green pavilion was shipped to attractive features. views of the wild
coastline as you dine on
classic American fare.
 A5 ⌂ 902 Point Lobos
Ave ∑ louissf.com
\\\
Crepevine
With an exhaustive
menu of sweet and
savoury crêpes and
other breakfast and
lunch options, this is
a great place to fill
up before setting out
to explore Golden
Gate Park.
 G7 ⌂ 624 Irving St
∑ crepevine.com
\\\





Tropical plants fill the
magnificent Conservatory
of Flowers
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anglers, there are several fly-
casting pools nearby.
Did You Know? To the east of the stadium,
in the green expanse of Old
Speedway Meadows, many
A velodrome was built
around the Polo Fields celebrations were held during
in 1906 and is still used the late 1960s, including some
by cyclists to this day. notable rock concerts. The
Grateful Dead and Jefferson
EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park and Land’s End 12 of many events that led to the
Airplane, among others,
played here. Here, in the
spring of 1967, thousands
attended a huge “Be-in,” one
Polo Fields
“Summer of Love.”
 C7 ⌂ John F. Kennedy
Drive, Golden Gate Park
13
@ 5, 29
Queen Wilhelmina
You are far more likely to see
Tulip Garden
joggers and soccer teams
than polo ponies using the
 B7 @ 5, 18, 31, 31AX
Polo Fields stadium in the
more open western half of
Golden Gate Park. Horses, on
near the northwest corner of
which to explore the park’s
Golden Gate Park in 1903. Its
ori ginal pur pose was to pump
equestrian trails and the
Bercut Equitation Field, are The Dutch windmill was built
water from an underground
avail able by the hour at the source to irrigate the park, companion, the Murphy Wind-
adjacent riding stables. For but it is no longer in use. Its mill, was erected in the park’s
southwest corner in 1905. The
garden was named after the
Dutch Queen Wilhelmina, and
tulip bulbs are donated each
year by the Dutch Bulb
Growers’ Association; early
spring is the best time of year
to see the colorful display of
tulips in full bloom.
14
Ocean Beach
 A7 @ 5, 7X, 18, 31, 31AX,
48 v L, N
Most of San Francisco’s
western boundary is defined
by this broad sweep of sandy
beach. Though sublime when
viewed from Cliff House or
Sutro Heights, the sea here
is dangerous for swimming
because of its icy waters and
a strong undertow. Surfers in
wet suits are a common sight,


The Queen Wilhelmina Tulip
Garden with its windmill and
glorious flower beds
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but there is often a stiff wind, Seal Rocks, a
or fog. On rare hot days, it is haven for sea
also a popular spot for sun- lions (inset)
bathers and picnickers; and and sea birds
locals come for barbecue and jut off Ocean
to watch the sun go down. Beach

15 16
Seal Rocks Buffalo Paddock
 A6 @ 18, 38  C7 ⌂ John F. Kennedy
Drive, Golden Gate Park
Seal Rocks is a collection @ 5, 29
of small rocky islands (not
accessible to visitors) in the The shaggy buffalo that graze DRINK
Lands End area, popular with in this paddock are the largest
basking sea lions and sea North American land animals.
birds. They are best viewed With its short horns and Hockey Haven
from Ocean Beach (at low humped back, the buffalo Operating since 1949,
tide), Cliff House, or Sutro (or “American bison”) is the what this vibrant pub
Heights Park. Bring binoculars symbol of the American plains. lacks in fanciness it
to watch them in their natural This paddock was opened in makes up for in fun.
setting. At night, the barking 1892. In 1902 William Cody, Pool tables, a
of the sea lions is somehow alias “Buffalo Bill,” traded one thumping jukebox,
both reassuring and eerie, of his bulls for one from the friendly service, and a
especially when it is foggy. Golden Gate Park herd. Both relaxed vibe draw in the
On a clear day you can see parties thought that they had local clientele on a
the Farallon Islands, which lie rid themselves of an aggress- nightly basis.
32 miles (51 km) off the coast. ive beast, but Cody’s newly  C6 ⌂ 3625 Balboa St
This group of islands and sea purchased bull jumped a ∑ hockey-haven.
stacks are also inhabited by high fence once back at his business.site
sea lions and contain a encampment and escaped.
rookery that has been prot- Apparently, it took a total of
ected by the state since 1907. 80 men to recapture it.
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17 18 "\= The evocative ruins of the
Lincoln Park Cliff House Sutro Baths, a great lookout
point over the Pacific Ocean
 B4 @ 1, 1AX, 18, 38  A6 ⌂ 1090 Point Lobos
@ 38AX # Daily
This splendid park, located ∑ cliffhouse.com
above the Golden Gate Park,
is the setting for the Legion Cliff House is a wonderful 19 \-=
The Beach Chalet
place to come for a meal
of Honor (p196). The land was
EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park and Land’s End pants. When these graves on this site. Its predecessor, website ∑ beachchalet.com
and enjoy dramatic views of
originally allocated to Golden
 A7 ⌂ 1000 Great Hwy
the ocean. Built in 1909, the
Gate Cemetery, where graves
@ 5, 5R, 31, 31AX, 38
were segregated according to
present building, which was
# Times vary, check
renovated in 2004, is the third
the nationality of their occu-
were cleared in the first
an elaborate eight-story
Where the Golden Gate Park
meets the ocean, you’ll find
Gothic structure that burned
decade of the 20th century,
down in 1907, was built by
the park was established and
this charming historic
the flamboyant entrepreneur
building. Noteworthy architect
landscaped by John McLaren,
Willis Polk designed the chalet
Adolph Sutro. His estate on
who served as superintendent
in 1925, while other artisans
of the Golden Gate Park for
the hill overlooking Cliff
many years (p198).
have added their touches over
House is now Sutro Heights
the years, creating a distinctly
The park now boasts an 18-
Park. There are several
“only-in-San Francisco”
restaurants on the upper
hole golf course and scenic
walks. City views from the
levels, live jazz on Friday
hilltop course are, as you
murals by famed artist Lucien
nights, and three observation
might expect, superb.
Labaudt were commissioned
decks with panoramic views.
by the Works Progress
A camera obscura is located
on the lower level and uses a establishment. Elaborate
Administration in 1936 and
series of mirrors and lenses to depict famous places and
produce a 360° panorama of people in San Francisco.
the ocean and rocks around. Intricate wood carvings by
Michael von Meyer show
seaside imagery such as
mermaids, octopuses, and
old ships, underscoring the
sweeping views of the Pacific
Ocean right outside the Beach
Chalet windows. You can
browse historic artifacts
housed on the first floor, view
a three-dimensional model
of Golden Gate Park, sample
PICTURE PERFECT
A Labyrinth
Inspired by other
historic labyrinths
and the awe-inspiring
coastal landscape,
artist Eduardo Aguilera
created his own rock
labyrinth at Land’s End.
It can be found down an
offshoot of the Land’s
End Trail.
Cliff House, perched on
rugged rocks above the
Pacific Ocean
204
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seasonal beers from the eventually fell out of favor. In It is reached on foot along the
brewery, and enjoy live the 1960s, a myst-erious fire Coastal Trail, which can be
entertainment and good laid waste to the once iconic accessed by stairs from the
food in the restaurant. buildings. Set within the Legion of Honor, or from a
craggy cliffside near the parking area at Point Lobos.
famed Cliff House and close The Coastal Trail ends in a
20 to the wide expanse of the spectacular viewing point
ocean, these brooding ruins
overlooking the Golden Gate
The Sutro Baths afford striking views. Bridge (p64). It is inadvisable
to leave the trail, as there is
 A5 ⌂ 1004 Point Lobos
@ 38, 38AX, 38R a risk of being stranded by
incoming tides; call the
# Sunrise–sunset daily 21 National Park Service for tide
Today, all that remains of the Land’s End infor mation (415 561 4700).
Sutro Baths are atmospheric  B4 @ 1, 1AX, 18, 38 Mile Rocks Lighthouse can be
ruins in a wild and rocky set- seen offshore from here, or
ting. Developed in 1890 by A rugged seascape of rock, at least what is left of it. The
Adolph Sutro, an entrepreneur cliff, and matted cypress tower was removed in 1966
and former city mayor, the woods, Land’s End is the and the top converted into a
baths housed the largest wildest part of San Francisco. helicopter pad.
indoor pools in the country.
The incoming tide would fill
and refresh the water of the
pools every five days. The
pools were a popular dest-
ination for visitors and locals
in the first half of the
twentieth century, but they
Set within the craggy
cliffside near the
famed Cliff House
and close to the wide
expanse of the ocean,
these brooding ruins The Coastal Trail at Land’s End, offering
afford striking views. city and ocean views

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A SHORT WALK
GOLDEN GATE PARK




Distance 0.5 mile (0.6 km) Time 10 minutes
Nearest bus 5, 44 Music Concourse, with its fountains, plane
EXPERIENCE Golden Gate Park and Land’s End which to escape from the bustle of city life. Temple of Music. Two museums stand
Golden Gate Park is one of the largest urban
trees, and benches, is the most popular
parks in the world. It stretches from the
Pacific Ocean to the center of San Francisco,
and developed section. Here you can enjoy
forming an oasis of greenery and calm in
free Sunday concerts at the Spreckels
Within the park an amazing number of
on either side of the Concourse, and the
activities are possible, both sporting and
Japanese and Shakespeare gardens are
in walking distance.
cultural. The landscaped area around the
The state-of-the-art, landmark
de Young Museum (p194) showcases
fine arts from around the world.
The Great Buddha, nearly 11 ft
(3 m) high, is probably the largest
statue of its kind outside Asia.

The exquisite Japanese HAGIAWARA TEA GARDEN DRIVE
Tea Garden (p198), with its
well-tended plants, is one
of the most attractive
areas in the park.

The bridge in the Japanese
Tea Garden is known as the
Moon Bridge. It arches steeply,
and its reflection in the water
below forms a perfect circle.

The bust of Verdi
reflects the city’s
passion for opera.







FINISH



M A R T I N L U T H E R K I N G D R I V E

The Spreckels Temple
of Music is an ornate
band shell, the site for
Japanese Tea Garden, the oldest one of its kind free summer concerts
in the US since 1899.
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GOLDEN GATE PARK
AND LAND’S END
The Spreckels
Temple of
Music band Locator Map
shell For more detail see p190
The statue of the Apple Cider Press, by
sculptor Thomas Shields-Clarke, is one of the
few monuments to survive from the California The bust of Miguel de Cervantes, the
Midwinter Fair of 1894. Spanish author, was sculpted by Jo Mora.
He is depicted with his two fictional
creations, Don Quixote and Sancho Panza.

The John McLaren
HAGIAWARA TEA GARDEN DRIVE first superintendent of
Rhododendron Dell is
planted in memory of the
Golden Gate Park.




















The California Academy
of Sciences (p192)
combines an aquarium, a
planetarium, a museum,
and a research facility.
The Music Concourse, a
formally landscaped area
with fountains and benches,
FINISH is where the Golden Gate
Park Band performs on
Sundays (Apr–Oct).

START
M A R T I N L U T H E R K I N G D R I V E
The tiny Shakespeare
Garden (p198) holds more
than 150 species of plants, all
mentioned in Shakespeare’s 0 meters 80 N
poetry or plays.
0 yards 80
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Sunset over the Sonoma County coast











































THE BAY AREA



San Francisco is the smallest in size of the seven
counties that encircle the San Francisco Bay. To the
north of Golden Gate Bridge, Marin County has
a wild, windswept coastline, forests of redwoods,
and Mount Tamalpais, which offers magnificent
views across the Bay Area. In the East Bay, popular
destinations are Oakland’s Museum of California
and the famous university, Gourmet Ghetto, and
the botanical gardens of Berkeley. The Peninsula
area stretching to the south of San Francisco
is full of interesting urban areas that hug the
beautiful coastline, while the Napa Valley and
Sonoma counties to the north are famous for the
manicured beauty of their vineyards, and their
famous wines and upscale resorts.
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Mount St. Helena
Francis Ford Coppola Winerya Winery Mount St. Helena Esparto Esparto
Francis Ford Coppol
4,340 ft (1,323 m)
Lytton 4,340 ft (1,323 m) Aetna Aetna
Lytton
0 kilometers0 kilometers 20 20 N N Kellogg Kellogg Springs Springs
He
Healdsburgaldsburg
Old Faithful
0 miles 0 miles 20 20 Old Faithful
Armstrong Redwoods Grant Grant Geyser Geyser Pope Valley Pope Valley Lake Lake
Armstrong Redwoods
State Park State Park Berryessa Berryessa Norton Norton
Calistoga Calistoga
Fort R
Fort Ross Stateoss State Cazadero Cazadero Russian RiverRussian River Deer ParkDeer Park Spanish Spanish Winters Winters
Hist
Historic Parkoric Park Guernevilleerneville Flat Flat
Gu
Fulton Fulton St. Helena St. Helena
Monte RioMonte Rio Melita Melita
Santa Rosa
Bridgehaven Santa Rosa Napa ValleyNapa Valley
Bridgehaven
Occidental Occidental Kenwood Kenwood Wine CountryWine Country Allendale Allendale
Llano
Sebastopol Sebastopol Llano
Jack London State
Carmet Carmet Jack London State
Beyond the BayBeyond the Bay Chico Chico Historic Parkoric Park Oak Knoll Oak Knoll
Hist
Fort Fort Bodega Bay Bodega Bodega Vichy Springs Vacaville Vacaville
Bodega Bay
Vichy Springs
Rohnert Rohnert
Bragg Bragg Willits Willits Valley Ford Valley Ford Bloomfield Bloomfield Park Union Napa Union Napa
Park
Yuba CityYuba City
MendocinoMendocino Sonoma Sonoma Napa Napa
Dillon Beach PetalumaPetaluma
Dillon Beach
Shipyard Acres
CloverdaleCloverdale Sacramento Tomales Tomales Shipyard Acres Fairfield Fairfield
Sacramento
Gloria Ferrer
Gloria Ferrer
Champagne Caves
Champagne Caves
Santa RosaSanta Rosa Lakeville Lakeville Denverton Denverton
Marshall Marshall Lombard Lombard
Fairville Fairville
RichmondRichmond Stockton Stockton
Flosden Acres
Millerton Millerton
San FranciscoSan Francisco Inverness Inverness Flosden Acres
Novato Novato Vallejo Vallejo
Poi
Point Reyesnt Reyes
San Jose San Jose Station Station Ignacio Ignacio San PabloSan Pablo
Bay
Bay
Area of main mapArea of main map Gilroy Gilroy San San Martinez Martinez Pittsburg Pittsburg
Poi
Point Reyesnt Reyes
Rafael
MontereyMonterey Salinas National Seashore Fairfax Fairfax Rafael
Salinas
National Seashore
Carmel-by-the-Sea-the-Sea Concord Concord
Carmel-by
Larkspur Larkspur RichmondRichmond Clayton Clayton
0 km 0 km 100 N N Bolinas Bolinas Pleasant Pleasant
100
Hill
Hill
Big Sur Big Sur
0 miles 0 miles 100 100 See East Bay Walnut CreekWalnut Creek
See East Bay
map, left map, left Lafayette Lafayette
Sausalito Sausalito
See Marin CountySee Marin County Danville Danville
map, left map, left
Oakland Oakland San RamonSan Ramon
San San
Marin CountyMarin County FranciscoFrancisco
Mount TamalpaisMount Tamalpais Oakland Oakland
State ParkState Park Daly City Daly City Dublin Dublin
Larkspur Larkspur InternationalInternational Castro ValleyCastro Valley
Airport
Airport
Corte MaderaCorte Madera South South Hayward Hayward
San Francisco
San Francisco
Pacific Manor
Pacific Manor
Russell City Russell City
Mill ValleyMill Valley Millbrae Millbrae PleasantonPleasanton
San FranciscoSan Francisco
Stinson Stinson Pedro Valley Pedro Valley InternationalInternational Union CityUnion City
Airport
Airport
Muir WoodsMuir Woods
Beach Beach Tiburon Tiburon Pabrico Pabrico
Montara Montara San MateoSan Mateo Foster City Foster City
TamalpaisTamalpais
Valley Valley Belmont Belmont Fremont Fremont
Muir BeachMuir Beach SausalitoSausalito Moss Beach Moss Beach
El Granada El Granada Newark Newark
Angel Angel Filoli Filoli
Island Island Half Half RedwoodRedwood
City
City
4
0 km 0 km 4 N N Marin Marin Vista PointVista Point Moon BayMoon Bay
Headlands Headlands WoodsideWoodside Stanford UniversityStanford University Milpitas Milpitas
0 miles 0 miles 4 4 Golden Gate BridgeGolden Gate Bridge
MountainMountain SunnyvaleSunnyvale
San Jose San Jose
View View InternationalInternational
The East BayThe East Bay Tilden ParkTilden Park Loyola Loyola Airport Airport
Albany Albany San San La Honda La Honda Santa Santa
San Jose San Jose
Clara
LafayetteLafayette Gregorio Gregorio CupertinoCupertino Clara
BerkeleyBerkeley ClaremontClaremont
Resort and SpaResort and Spa P acif icP acif ic PescaderoPescadero Saratoga Saratoga
RockridgeRockridge Oc eanOc ean Los GatosLos Gatos
EmeryvilleEmeryville
Bay BridgeBay Bridge
Moraga Moraga
PiedmontPiedmont
Mormon TempleMormon Temple
Boulder Creek
Oakland Oakland Visitors’ CenterVisitors’ Center Año NuevoAño Nuevo Boulder Creek
Fruitvale Fruitvale Upper Upper
San LeandroSan Leandro Scotts Valley
Scotts Valley
Alameda Alameda ReservoirReservoir
Davenport Davenport
0 km 0 km 4 N N
4
Santa CruzSanta Cruz
0 miles 0 miles 4 4 San LeandroSan Leandro Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
210-211_EW_San_Francisco.indd 210 30/11/2018 16:44
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Mount St. Helena
Francis Ford Coppol
Francis Ford Coppola Winerya Winery Mount St. Helena Esparto Esparto
4,340 ft (1,323 m)
Lytton
Lytton 4,340 ft (1,323 m) Aetna Aetna
0 kilometers0 kilometers 20 20 N N Kellogg Kellogg Springs Springs THE BAY AREA
He
Healdsburgaldsburg
Old Faithful
0 miles 0 miles 20 20 Old Faithful
Armstrong Redwoods Grant Grant Geyser Geyser Pope Valley Pope Valley Lake Lake
Armstrong Redwoods
State Park State Park Berryessa Berryessa Norton Norton Marin County
Calistoga Calistoga 1 Stinson Beach
Fort R
Fort Ross Stateoss State Cazadero Cazadero Russian RiverRussian River Deer ParkDeer Park Winters Winters 2 Sausalito
Spanish Spanish
Hist
Historic Parkoric Park Guernevilleerneville Flat Flat
Gu
Fulton Fulton St. Helena St. Helena 3 Point Reyes Station
Monte RioMonte Rio Melita Melita 4 Tiburon
Santa Rosa
Bridgehaven
Bridgehaven Santa Rosa Napa ValleyNapa Valley
Occidental Occidental Kenwood Kenwood Wine CountryWine Country Allendale Allendale 5 Angel Island
Llano
Sebastopol Sebastopol Llano 6 Vista Point
Jack London State
Carmet Carmet Jack London State
Beyond the BayBeyond the Bay Chico Chico Historic Parkoric Park Oak Knoll Oak Knoll 7 Point Reyes National Seashore
Hist
Fort Fort Bodega Bay Bodega Bodega Vichy Springs Vacaville Vacaville 8 Mount Tamalpais State Park
Bodega Bay
Vichy Springs
Rohnert Rohnert
Bragg Bragg Willits Valley Ford Valley Ford Bloomfield Bloomfield Park Union Napa Union Napa
Willits
Park
MendocinoMendocino Sonoma Sonoma Napa Napa 9 Muir Woods and Beach
Yuba CityYuba City
Dillon Beach PetalumaPetaluma The East Bay
Dillon Beach
Shipyard Acres
CloverdaleCloverdale Sacramento Tomales Tomales Shipyard Acres Fairfield Fairfield
Sacramento
Gloria Ferrer
Gloria Ferrer 10 Oakland
Champagne Caves
Champagne Caves
Santa RosaSanta Rosa Lakeville Lakeville Denverton Denverton 11 Mormon Temple Visitors’ Center
Marshall Marshall Lombard Lombard
Fairville Fairville 12 Bay Bridge
RichmondRichmond Stockton Stockton 13 Tilden Park
Flosden Acres
Millerton Millerton
San FranciscoSan Francisco Inverness Inverness Flosden Acres 14 Rockridge
Novato Novato Vallejo Vallejo
Poi
Point Reyesnt Reyes 15 Claremont Resort and Spa
San Jose San Jose Station Station Ignacio Ignacio San PabloSan Pablo
Bay
Bay
Area of main mapArea of main map Gilroy Gilroy San San Martinez Martinez Pittsburg Pittsburg 16 Berkeley
Poi
Point Reyesnt Reyes
MontereyMonterey Salinas National Seashore Fairfax Fairfax Rafael The Peninsula
Rafael
Salinas
National Seashore
Carmel-by-the-Sea-the-Sea Concord Concord 17 Must See: Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
Carmel-by
Larkspur Larkspur RichmondRichmond Clayton Clayton
0 km 0 km 100 N N Bolinas Bolinas Pleasant Pleasant 18 Must See: Half Moon Bay
100
Hill
Hill
Big Sur Big Sur 19 San Jose
0 miles 0 miles 100 100 See East Bay Walnut CreekWalnut Creek
See East Bay
map, left map, left Lafayette Lafayette 20 Stanford University
Sausalito Sausalito
See Marin CountySee Marin County Danville Danville 21 Año Nuevo
map, left map, left 22 Pescadero
Oakland Oakland San RamonSan Ramon
San San 23 Filoli
Marin CountyMarin County FranciscoFrancisco
Mount TamalpaisMount Tamalpais Oakland Oakland Napa Valley
State ParkState Park Daly City Daly City Dublin Dublin
Larkspur Larkspur InternationalInternational Castro ValleyCastro Valley 24 Must See: Napa Valley Wine Country
Airport
Airport
Corte MaderaCorte Madera South South Hayward Hayward 25 St. Helena
San Francisco
San Francisco
Pacific Manor
Pacific Manor
Russell City Russell City 26 Calistoga
Mill ValleyMill Valley Millbrae Millbrae PleasantonPleasanton
San FranciscoSan Francisco
Stinson Stinson Pedro Valley Pedro Valley InternationalInternational Union CityUnion City 27 Old Faithful Geyser
Airport
Airport
Muir WoodsMuir Woods
Beach Beach Tiburon Tiburon Pabrico Pabrico 28 Napa
Montara Montara San MateoSan Mateo Foster City Foster City
TamalpaisTamalpais
Valley Valley Belmont Belmont Fremont Fremont Sonoma County
Muir BeachMuir Beach SausalitoSausalito Moss Beach Moss Beach
El Granada El Granada Newark Newark 29 Must See: Healdsburg
Angel Angel Filoli Filoli
Island Island Half Half RedwoodRedwood 30 Bodega Bay
City
City
4
0 km 0 km 4 N N Marin Marin Vista PointVista Point Moon BayMoon Bay 31 Francis Ford Coppola Winery
Headlands Headlands WoodsideWoodside Stanford UniversityStanford University
Milpitas Milpitas
0 miles 0 miles 4 4 Golden Gate BridgeGolden Gate Bridge 32 Guerneville
MountainMountain SunnyvaleSunnyvale
San Jose San Jose
View View InternationalInternational 33 Santa Rosa
The East BayThe East Bay Tilden ParkTilden Park Loyola Loyola Airport Airport 34 Armstrong Redwoods State Park
Albany Albany San San La Honda La Honda Santa Santa
San Jose San Jose
Clara
LafayetteLafayette Gregorio Gregorio CupertinoCupertino Clara 35 Fort Ross State Historic Park
BerkeleyBerkeley ClaremontClaremont 36 Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves
Resort and SpaResort and Spa P acif icP acif ic PescaderoPescadero Saratoga Saratoga 37 Sonoma
RockridgeRockridge Oc eanOc ean Los GatosLos Gatos 38 Jack London State Historic Park
EmeryvilleEmeryville
Bay BridgeBay Bridge
Moraga Moraga 39 Russian River
PiedmontPiedmont
Mormon TempleMormon Temple Beyond the Bay
Boulder Creek
Oakland Oakland Visitors’ CenterVisitors’ Center Año NuevoAño Nuevo Boulder Creek 40 Must See: Monterey
Fruitvale Fruitvale Upper Upper 41 Sacramento
San LeandroSan Leandro Scotts Valley 42 Mendocino
Scotts Valley
Alameda Alameda ReservoirReservoir
Davenport Davenport 43 Carmel-by-the-Sea
0 km 0 km 4 N N 44 Big Sur
4
Santa CruzSanta Cruz
0 miles 0 miles 4 4 San LeandroSan Leandro Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk
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GETTING TO KNOW


THE BAY AREA



EXPERIENCE Getting to Know the Bay Area only a small part of this region, so take a coach or hire a car and head out
The Bay Area has no official boundaries, but is roughly made up of the
nine counties that border the San Francisco Bay. San Francisco itself is
to explore the beautiful, varied, and historic region of northern California.







































MARIN COUNTY Best for
Hiking and nature
PAGE 216 A wild, windswept coastline, redwood forests, and Home to
seaside villages are all just a few minutes north from
Vista Point and Mount
the Golden Gate Bridge. Accessible by ferry, Sausalito
and Tiburon are charming bayside hamlets loaded Tamalpais State Park
Experience
with boutique shops, galleries, and scenic cafés and A ferry ride to Angel Island
restaurants. Hugging the Pacific, a wide bay, and a for an afternoon of hiking
wildlife-rich estuary, Point Reyes National Seashore
is for hikers, bikers, and wilderness lovers.


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THE EAST BAY Best for
City life and museums
PAGE 222 The cities in the East Bay have enough highlights Home to
of their own to lure people across the Bay from San
Oakland and Berekely
Francisco. Just 20 minutes by car over the Bay Bridge
you’ll find museums, galleries, waterfront walks, and Experience
Exploring trendy shopping
historic sights abound in Oakland, while Berkeley districts like Fourth Street
boasts a verdant university campus and the “Gourmet in Berkeley
Ghetto” of California cuisine.



THE PENINSULA
PAGE 230 South of San Francisco are coastal
sights from the lively Santa Cruz Beach
Boardwalk to the natural beauty of Half
Moon Bay. Some of this area is also
known as Silicon Valley, home of Apple,
Google, and a plethora of tech-centric
companies. Families will love the
interactive Tech Museum of Innovation
and the spooky Winchester Mystery
House in San Jose, while others can
enjoy some time in quiet, picturesque
towns like Pescadero.
Best for
Families, beaches and cool towns
Home to
Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk and Half Moon Bay
Experience
A day at California’s oldest amusement park
by the ocean in Santa Cruz



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EXPERIENCE Getting to Know the Bay Area















Wine tasting and upscale resorts
PAGE 238 NAPA VALLEY Best for
Hundreds of world-famous wineries have celebrity
Home to
status in this region, making it the perfect place for a
Napa Valley Wine Country
luxury break. But the pelasures of Napa Valley aren’t
restricted to wine connoisseurs. Hot-air balloons float Experience
The ultimate indulgence in food
over the hills and vineyards, while passengers on the and drink at the French Laundry
Napa Valley Wine Train enjoy a fine dining experience
as they ride the rails through beautiful rolling hills.

SONOMA
PAGE 242 COUNTY
From early California history in the
small town of Sonoma, to exquisite
drinking and dining in verdant wine
valleys, Sonoma County is another
must-see stop on any good tour of
the Bay Area. Along winding country
roads, hundreds of premium wineries
welcome visitors, offering tastes of the
grape, plus music festivals and cuisine-
focused events. For families and nature
lovers, there’s a gorgeous, rugged
coastline and beautiful national parks.
Best for
Wine and national parks
Home to
Healdsburg
Experience
Taking the family for a day of sun and
outdoor fun at the Russian River



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BEYOND THE BAY Best for
History, beaches and old towns
PAGE 248 Head out for a day trip from San Francisco and you’ll Home to
find all kinds of adventures to remind you of the
Monterey
irresistible pull of the Pacific coast that has drawn
setters and inspired writers and artists for centuries. Experience
Visiting the historic Old Town
Explore Sacramento and Mendocino to the north, and in Sacramento, the capital
the lovely town of Monterey in the south – but make of California
sure you take time out to drive down Highway 1 and
enjoy the breathtaking coastline of Big Sur.


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EXPERIENCE Marin County












Hanging out on the
waterfront and enjoying
the views at Sausalito
Did You Know?
MARIN COUNTY Hundreds of floating
homes can be seen in
Sausalito, including
one inspired by
the Taj Mahal.
1 \-= 2 \=
Stinson Beach Sausalito
⌂ US 101 N to Highway 1 ⌂ US 101 N, first exit after
# 7am–one hour after Golden Gate Bridge, to movement of the tides and
sunset daily ∑ nps.gov/ Bridgeway g From Ferry currents of San Francisco Bay.
goga/stbe.htm Building US Army Corps of
Since the early days of the In this attractive small town Engineers Bay Model
20th century this has been that was once a fishing Visitor Center
a popular vacation spot; the community, Victorian ⌂ 2100 Bridgeway # Times
first visitors came on ferries bungalows cling to steep hills vary, check website ∑ spn.
from San Francisco and were rising from the bay. Parallel usace.army.mil
met by horse-drawn carriages. to the waterfront, Bridgeway
Stinson remains the preferred serves as a prom enade for
swimming beach for the the week end crowds that 3
whole area, with shallow come to patronize the popular
water making it very safe for waterfront restaur ants, gift Point Reyes Station
children, and an expansive shops, food markets, art n 1 Bear Valley Rd; www.
stretch of soft white sand, studios, and boutiques and pointreyes.org
where surfers mingle with to enjoy the views.
swimmers and sunbathers. The US Army Corps of A delightful hamlet (pop-
The village nearby (also Engineers Bay Model Visitor ulation 350) built along the
named Stinson Beach) has Center is well worth a look to now defunct railroad at the
a few cafés and restaurants, see a working hydraulic scale southern end of Tomales Bay,
and some good bookstores. model, which simulates the this is the Marin Coast’s main
commercial and social hub. Its
Stinson remains the preferred beach for
the whole area, with shallow water
making it very safe for children, and an Elephant seals basking on
the beach at Point Reyes
expansive stretch of soft white sand. National Seashore
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coastal area on hiking or from Asia. During World War II,
horse-riding trips. prisoners of war were held
here. No motor vehi cles are
allowed, so it’s a great place
for walking or cycling.
4 \=
Tiburon
⌂ US 101 N, Tiburon Blvd
exit @ Golden Gate Transit
bus 8 g From Ferry EAT
Building or Pier 43
The waterfront of this chic Curled around the edge
town is fringed with lovely of Richardson Bay,
parks, and the main street is Sausalito has plenty of
lined with shops and restau- options for dining with
rants housed in “arks.” These a waterfront view.
are houseboats dating from
the turn of the 20th century The Spinnaker
that were pulled ashore when ⌂ 100 Spinnaker Dr
the lagoon was filled in, and ∑ spinnaker
refurbished. They now stand sasausalito.us
in what is called “Ark Row.”
\\\
5 The Trident
red-brick, vaguely Italianate ⌂ 558 Bridgeway
architecture reflects its Angel Island ∑ thetrident.net
founding by northern Italian g From Pier 41 and Tiburon \\\
settlers. Many original ∑ angelisland.org
buildings still stand on Main Barrel House Tavern
Street, includ ing the Old Angel Island is reached by ⌂ 660 Bridgeway
Creamery, Livery Stable, and ferry from Tiburon and San
original rail depot (today the Francisco. Boats dock at Ayala ∑ barrelhousetavern.
com
post office). This charming Cove. Hiking trails loop the
hamlet is a great place to stay wooded island, rising to 776 ft \\\
while exploring the beautiful (237 m) above sea level, and
Point Reyes National Seashore past an old military garrison Fish.
(p218) and surrounding that once housed immigrants ⌂ 350 Harbor Drive
∑ 331fish.com
\\\





























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quickly in summer, especially 7
on weekends, so get there
early or take public transport. Point Reyes National
More spectacular vistas Seashore
can be enjoyed from the Marin ⌂ US Hwy 1 to Olema; then
Headlands, on the northwest follow signs for Point
side of the bridge. A path from Reyes National Seashore
Fort Baker leads under the @ Golden Gate Transit
bridge then via Conzelman
EXPERIENCE Marin County The Golden Gate Bridge viewpoint at Battery Spencer, Marin Stage 68
buses 70 & 101 to San
Road (accessible off south­
Rafael Center, then West
bound US 101) up to the first
Point Reyes peninsula is wild
a World War II gun emplace­
and windswept, and a haven
ment. The road snakes uphill
to two other viewpoints. The
for wildlife, including a herd
most spect acular view awaits
of tule elk. There are cattle
shrouded in fog, seen
and dairy ranches, and three
at the top, at Hawk Hill.
Reyes Station (p216), and
Museum close to Fort Baker
is a wonderful, hands­on
Inverness. The peninsula
6 from Vista Point The Bay Area Discovery small towns: Olema, Point
is due west of the San
children’s museum that is
Vista Point worth a visit once you’re done Andreas Fault, which caused
admiring the scenery. With the devastating 1906 earth­
⌂ US 101 N, then take
Conzelman Rd @ Golden a focus on STEM subjects, it quake. A displaced fence on
allows children to test their
the Earthquake Trail near Bear
Gate Transit bus 30, 70
∑ goldengatebridge.org creative problem­solving skills Valley Visitor Center shows
with its interactive exhibits. how the Fault caused the
This famous viewpoint, peninsula to move a full 20 ft
immediately northeast of Bay Area Discovery (6 m) north of the mainland.
the Golden Gate Bridge (p64) Museum Point Reyes Lighthouse,
offers an iconic vista of San "- = ⌂ 557 McReynolds built in 1870 and located at
Francisco and the Bay from Rd # 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, the peninsula’s tip, may be
atop Fort Baker. If you are 10am–5pm Sat, 9am–5pm the windiest and foggiest
coming by car, be aware that Sun ∑ bayareadiscovery place on the Pacific Coast. The
the parking lot often fills up museum.org lighthouse is now automated;















Visitors taking the 307 steps
to reach The Point Reyes
Lighthouse
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Walking amid the giant
redwoods in Muir Woods
National Monument

the original Fresnel lens is
only for show. It’s reached via
a 307-step staircase from the
clifftop Lighthouse Visitor
Center – a great place to spot
migrating whales.
Lighthouse Visitor Center
⌂ 27000 Sir Francis Drake
Blvd # 10am–4:30pm
Fri–Mon ∑ nps.gov/pore/
planyourvisit/lighthouse.htm


8
Mount Tamalpais
State Park
⌂ 3801 Panoramic Hwy
# 7am–sunset ∑ parks.
ca.gov
Mount Tamalpais State Park is
a wilderness nature preserve
with trails that wind through
redwoods and alongside
creeks. There are picnic areas,
campsites, and meadows for
kite flying. Mount Tamalpais, one of the few remaining
at 2,571 ft (784 m), is one of stands of first-growth coast
the highest peaks in the Bay redwoods. These giant trees
Area; the rough tracks gave (the oldest is at least 1,000
rise to the invention of the years old) once covered the STAY
mountain bike. Near the coastal area of California. The
summit is the Mountain woods were named in honor Cavallo Point Lodge
Theater, a natural amphi- of John Muir, a 19th-century Some rooms at this
theater where musicals naturalist who was one of the former military base are
and plays are performed. first to pers uade Americans in impeccably restored
of the need for conservation. officers’ quarters.
Mountain Theater Redwood Creek bubbles ⌂ 601 Murray Circle,
" ⌂ East Ridgecrest out of Muir Woods and makes Sausalito ∑ cavallo
# Performances: May–Jun: its way down to the sea at point.com
2pm Sun ∑ mountain Muir Beach, a wide expanse
play.org of sand popular with beach- \\\
combers and picnickers. The
road to the beach passes the The Inn Above Tide
A romantic destination
9 Pelican Inn. This 16th-century with views over the San
style inn is extremely proud
Muir Woods and Beach of its English menu, and its Francisco Bay.
welcoming hospitality.
⌂ US 101 N, then Hwy 1 to ⌂ 30 El Portal, Sausalito
Muir Beach turnoff The beach is likely to be ∑ innabovetide.com
∑ gomuirwoods.com crowded on weekends, but \\\
if you are prepared to walk a
Nestling at the foot of mile or so farther you will
Mount Tamalpais is Muir probably find that you have
Woods National Monument, the place to yourself.
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A LONG WALK
THE MARIN

Barracks house various
HEADLANDS Headlands District Office, the
offices, among them the
Golden Gate Raptor
Observatory, and an energy The Marine
EXPERIENCE Marin County Trail is a woodland track Nearest transport­ BUN KE R ROA D Mammal Center
and resources center.
Distance 2 miles (3 km) Time 45 minutes
Terrain Hilly; some paved roads; the Coastal
The Marine
Mammal Center
ation Bus 76X to Bunker Rd & Field Rd
At its northern end, the Golden Gate Bridge is
anchored in the rolling green hills of the Marin
Headlands. This is an unspoiled wild area of
windswept ridges, sheltered valleys, and
deserted beaches, once used as a military
BUN KE R ROA D
B U NKE R R O A D
defense post and now part of the vast Golden Barracks Barracks B U NKE R R O A D Ro d e o Ro d e o B U NKER ROAD B U NKER ROAD
L a k e
L a k e
Gate National Recreation Area. From several MI TCH E L L RO AD
MI TCH E L L RO AD
vantage points there are spectacular views of
San Francisco and the sea and, on autumn Wooden Wooden Marin Headlands
Marin Headlands
Visitor Center
days, you can see migrating eagles and Footbridge Footbridge R o d e o R o d e o Visitor Center
L a g o o n
ospreys gliding past Hawk Hill. L a g o o n F I E L D R O A D
COASTAL TRAIL L D R O A D
From the beach, turn inland Rodeo Rodeo COASTAL TRAIL F I E SIMMONDS RD
again as you approach the Beach Beach Golden Gate
SIMMONDS RD
Golden Gate
tip of the lagoon, crossing a ROSENSTOCK RD Hostel Hostel
wooden footbridge.
ROSENSTOCK RD
COASTAL TRAIL
COASTAL TRAIL
Marin
Headlands
SAN
FRANCISCO A 15-minute walk from the C O N Z E L M AN R O A D C O N Z E L M AN R O A D
parking area will bring you Battery Battery
Smith-Guthrie
to the sandy Rodeo Beach. Smith-Guthrie
Fishing boats may be seen Battery Battery
bobbing out at sea, but Alexander Alexander
Locator Map
the beach is mostly
empty of people. South South
Rodeo Rodeo
Beach Beach F I E LD R O A D F I E LD R O A D
From Rodeo Beach
there is a fine view
Bird
Bird
of Bird Island lying Island Island
to the south.
Battery Battery
Mendell Mendell
0 meters 0 meters 300 N 300 N
0 yards 0 yards 300 300
Rodeo Lagoon
at dusk, bordered by
windswept hillsides
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The Marine Mammal
Center is run by volunteers
who rescue and care for
sick or injured sea lions After crossing the bridge, take
and seals. After being the path down to the right
examined and treated they into the dense shrubbery and
are put back in the sea. then continue up the hill
again, via steps that will
Just before the paved road return you to the path at the
that runs past the lagoon Visitor Center parking area.
crosses a bridge, stop to
The Marine watch the water birds.
The Marine
Mammal Center
Mammal Center
There are plenty to be
seen in the tall grasses.
Before starting the walk,
pause at the Marin
Headlands Visitor Center,
a museum with a natural
BUN KE R ROA D
BUN KE R ROA D
B U NKE R R O A D
B U NKE R R O A D L a k e L a k e of the Marin Headlands.
can learn about the history
Barracks Barracks Ro d e o Ro d e o B U NKER ROAD B U NKER ROAD history bookstore. Here you
MI TCH E L L RO AD
MI TCH E L L RO AD
Marin Headlands
Marin Headlands
Wooden Wooden
Visitor Center
Footbridge Footbridge R o d e o R o d e o Visitor Center
L a g o o n
L a g o o n
COASTAL TRAIL L D R O A D
Rodeo Rodeo COASTAL TRAIL F I E F I E L D R O A D SIMMONDS RD
Golden Gate
Beach Beach Golden Gate
SIMMONDS RD
Hostel Hostel
ROSENSTOCK RD
ROSENSTOCK RD
COASTAL TRAIL
COASTAL TRAIL
C O N Z E L M AN R O A D C O N Z E L M AN R O A D After the Visitor Center,
Battery Battery head down to the three-
Smith-Guthrie
Smith-Guthrie story wooden Golden Gate
Battery Battery Walk back up Rosenstock Hostel, which is listed on the
Alexander Alexander Road until you reach the National Historic Registry. It
previously served as officers’
F I E LD R O A D F I E LD R O A D
South South Coastal Trail. Take the headquarters, a hospital and
path to the sea, but beware
Rodeo Rodeo
Beach Beach of the poison oak bushes. a missile command center.
Bird Bird
Island Island
Battery Battery
Mendell Mendell
0 meters 0 meters 300 N 300 N
0 yards 0 yards 300 300
The Marine
Mammal Center ,
where you can
watch vets at work
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THE EAST BAY



10 erected between the 1860s
and 1880s, and thor oughly
Oakland renovated in the 1980s. They
now contain an appealing
k £ @  n 482 Water array of shops, restaurants,
EXPERIENCE The East Bay Many visitors to Oakland to the popular Farmers’
Street; www.visitoakland.
and art galleries. Friday morn­
com
ings bring crowds of shoppers
Market, where stalls sell fresh
arrive by ferry and dock at
produce and prepared foods.
Jack London Square. Jack
By night, the crowds move on
London, author of The Call
to The Trappist on 8th Street.
of the Wild (1903) and White
Fang (1906), grew up in
Don’t miss Ratto’s, located at
Oakland in the 1880s, and
Italian delicatessen which
was a frequent visitor to the
opened in 1897 and was
Oakland Estuary waterfront. 827 Washington Street, an
It is a bright and busy prom­ once famed for its “Pasta
enade, lined with shops and Operas,” in which singers
restaurants, which have serenaded the diners.
outdoor tables in fine The musical tradition
weather. There are also carries on: every
pleasure boats offering trips Saturday afternoon you
along the estuary. Little of the can hear live jazz here.
waterfront that London knew Oakland is home to
remains, but the writer’s the Bay Area’s second­
footsteps can be traced to largest Chinatown – or
Heinold’s First and Last Chance perhaps it should be called
Saloon, which is located in “Asiatown”, as its Cantonese
Jack London Square and has majority is aug mented by
been around since 1883. immigrants from Korea,
Dating from the same era Vietnam, and other parts restaurants have good food
is Old Oakland, also known of Southeast Asia. The at reasonable prices, and the
as Victorian Row: two square neighborhood receives area is full of interesting and
blocks of attractive wood­and­ far fewer tourists than San colorful murals.
brick commercial buildings Francisco’s Chinatown but its At the center of Oakland lies
Lake Merritt, formed when
a saltwater tidal estuary was
dredged, embanked, and
partly dammed. The lake and
its surrounding park form a
lovely oasis of rich blue and
green. Designated in 1870 as
the first state game refuge in
the United States, Lake Merritt
still attracts migrating flocks
of birds. Rowers can rent boats
from two boathouses on the
west and north shores, and
joggers and cyclists can circle
the lake on a 3­mile (5­km)
path. The north shore at
Lakeside Park has flower
gardens, an aviary, and
A contemporary art
exhibit at the Oakland
Museum of California
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The entrance to the Oakland
Zoo and a pair of patas
monkeys (inset)

Old Oakland
 12th Street ∑ old-
oakland.com
Chinatown
 Lake Merritt
Lake Merritt
 Lake Merritt, 19th
Street ∑ lakemerritt.org
Children’s Fairyland
⌂ 699 Bellevue Ave @ AC
Transit 12 # Summer: 10am–
4pm daily (Winter: Fri–Sun)
∑ fairyland.org
Oakland Museum of
California
Children’s Fairyland: a Natural Sciences showcases " '-= ⌂ 1000 Oak St
whimsical storybook theme more than 2,000 native  Lake Merritt # 11am–5pm
park for youngsters. The species across 7 habitats. Wed–Fri (to 10pm Fri), 10am–
park has been a Lake Merritt The Gallery of California 6pm Sat & Sun ∑ museumca.
fixture since 1948, and has History has a large collection org
dozens of story book sets – of artifacts from across the
such as Peter Rabbit’s Garden state, while the Gallery of Oakland Zoo
and The Alice in Wonder land California Art boasts early oil " \ - = ⌂ 9777 Golf Links
Tunnel – and a carousel, a paintings of Yosemite and San Rd @ AC Transit bus line 46
miniature Ferris Wheel, live Francisco. Check the museum # 10am–4pm daily
entertain ment, and a small website for details of the ∑ oaklandzoo.org
petting zoo of domestic latest exhibitions.
animals, from guinea pigs On the outskirts of the city,
and rabbits to ponies. Oakland Zoo is a magnificent
The Oakland Museum menagerie with more than
of California is California’s 700 native and exotic species EAT
only museum exclusively living in naturalistic habitats.
dedicated to documenting These include recreations
the state’s art, history, and of a tropical rainforest and Commis
natural sciences. The building African ecosystems. In 2018, Perch at the counter in
and the hand somely terraced the California Trail opened this sleek restaurant to
gardens are features that (doubling the size of the zoo) watch chefs work each
mark this museum as an with eight new animal exhibits seasonally led dish to
important architectural icon. in huge, carefully recreated perfection. The tasting
The Gallery of California California habitats carved menu changes daily, but
out of the forested upper favorites – including
slopes. They’re dedicated to slow-poached egg yolk
California’s animal denizens, with onion cream –
including black bears, grizzly remain constant.
3.4 miles bears, mountain lions, and ⌂ 3859 Piedmont Ave,
Oakland ¢ Mon & Tue
bison. It’s reached via a
gondola ride. ∑ commis
The circumference of restaurant.com
Lake Merritt Jack London Square
(5.5 km). \\\
£ 12th Street, then AC
Transit 12, 72, 72M, 72R bus
g Oakland
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Oakland’s impressive
five-spired Mormon Temple
sitting on a hill above town

Francisco now uses the
top deck; eastbound traffic
EXPERIENCE The East Bay section is raised on more
to Oakland, the lower.
The eastern cantilever
than 20 piers. It climbs up
from the toll plaza causeway
in Oakland to 191 ft (58 m)
above the bay at Yerba Buena
Island. In 1989 a 50 ft (15 m)
segment of the bridge
collapsed during the Loma
Prieta earthquake. The East
Bay crossing was rebuilt
between 2002 and 2013
in order to make it more
earthquake resistant. The
current suspension bridge
features a single tower
across the shipping channel,
which gives way to a graceful
sky-way. Boring through the
island in a tunnel 76 ft (23 m)
high and 58 ft (17 m) wide, the
roadway emerges at the West
Bay section of the bridge. Two
suspension spans join at the
11 ' 12 concrete central anchorage,
which is deeper in the water
Mormon Temple Bay Bridge than that of any other bridge.
Visitors’ Center
∑ baybridgeinfo.org
⌂ 4766 Lincoln Ave,
Oakland  Fruitvale, then The San Francisco–Oakland
Bay Bridge (known simply
AC Transit 39 bus # 9am–
9pm daily ∑ lds.org/ as the “Bay Bridge”) was built
locations/oakland-temple- from 1933–6. It consists of two
visitors-center distinct struc tures joining at
Yerba Buena Island in the
Designed in 1963 and built middle of the Bay, and
on a hilltop, Oakland’s Church reaches 4.5 miles (7.2 km)
of Jesus Christ of Latter-day from shore to shore. Its com-
Saints is one of only two pletion heral ded the end of
Mormon temples in North - the age of ferryboats on San
ern California. The stunning Francisco Bay, by linking the
building’s central ziggurat peninsular city at Rincon Hill
is surrounded by four shorter to the mainland at Oakland.
towers, all terraced and clad The bridge has two levels,
with white granite and originally housing road
capped by gold pyramids. vehicles on the upper deck
Those eager to see the and trains and trucks below.
temple up close shoud first However, the rail tracks were
head to the Visitors’ Center, removed in the 1950s, leaving
which offers guided tours the bridge for use by more
by missionaries, who explain than 250,000 vehicles a
the tenets of the faith with day. Five traffic lanes wide,
multi media presentations. westbound traffic into San
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13 "- 14
Tilden Regional Park Rockridge
⌂ 2501 Grizzly Peak  Rockridge DRINK
Boulevard, Orinda
 Downtown Berkeley, A leafy residential area with The East Bay has a
then AC Transit 67 bus large houses and flower gar­ vibrant craft beer
# 5am–10pm daily dens, Rockridge also attracts scene, with plenty
shoppers to College Avenue.
∑ ebparks.org/parks/tilden
The streets are lined with of microbreweries and
Though preserved for the posh markets, boutiques, warehouse spaces
most part in a natural, wild and al fresco rest aurants. with gardens.
condition, Tilden Park offers
a variety of attractions. It is Triple Rock Brewing
noted for the enchantingly ⌂ 1920 Shattuck Ave,
landscaped Botanic Garden, 15 \= Berkeley ∑ triple
specializing in California Claremont Club rock.com
plants. Visitors can enjoy a and Spa Jupiter
leisurely stroll from alpine ⌂ 41 Tunnel Rd, Berkeley ⌂ 2181 Shattuck Ave,
meadows to desert cactus  Rockridge, then AC Berkeley ∑ jupiter
gardens by way of a lovely Transit 79 bus ∑ fairmont. beer.com
redwood glen, and there are com/claremont-berkeley Westbrae Biergarten
also guided nature walks. If ⌂ 1280 Gilman St,
you have children, make sure The Berkeley Hills form a Berkeley
you don’t miss the carousel, backdrop to this chic, palatial ∑ westbraebier
the miniature farmyard, and hotel built in 1915. When garten.com
the model steam train. Prohibition ended in 1933,
the hotel failed to prosper like
Botanic Garden other similar establishments,
§ (510) 544-3169 due partly to a law that
# 8:30am–5pm daily (Jun– forbade the sale of alcohol passed through the center
Sep: to 5:30pm) within a 1­mile (1.6­km) radius of the building, and so a hotel
of the Berkeley campus. After bar was built just beyond it.
Steam train a change in the law in 1937, an As well as being one of the
" § (510) 548-6100 enter prising student actually Bay Area’s plushest hotels,
# Summer: 11am–5pm daily; measured the distance, and this is a good place to have
Winter: 11am–6pm Sat & Sun found that the radius line a drink and enjoy the views.
























Bay Bridge lit up at night with
the stunning San Francisco
skyline in the background
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224-225_EW_San_Francisco.indd 225 30/11/2018 12:07

EXPERIENCE The East Bay








Shops and cafés on
Telegraph Avenue,
popular with students

16 Francisco architect David student protest in the 1960s.
Today it swarms with students
Farquharson were later
Berkeley adopted. Today there are over from dawn to dusk, along with
41,000 students and a wide numerous street vendors,
k @  n 2030 Addison St;
www.visitberkeley.com range of museums, cultural musi cians, protesters, artists,
amenities, and a number of and eccentrics.
Berkeley is renowned for buildings of note. These If you are traveling with
its university, UC Berkeley, include the Phoebe A. Hearst children, don't miss the
though some would argue Museum of Anthropology, Lawrence Hall of Science,
that its reputation for counter- the Berkeley Art Museum UC Berkeley’s museum, which
cultural movements some- and Pacific Film Archive, and makes science great fun for
times eclipses its reputation Sather Tower, which is also all the family. The changing
for academic excellence. For known as the Campanile. interactive exhibits encourage
all that, it remains one of the At Berkeley’s Strawberry visitors of all ages to explore,
most prestigious universities Canyon lies the University investigate, discover, and
in the world. Botanical Garden, where invent, from plotting the
Founded as a utopian more than 10,000 species stars in the planetarium to
“Athens of the Pacific” in 1868, of plant from all over the learning about animals, such
Berkeley has more than ten world thrive. Collections are as pythons, geckos, lizards,
Nobel Laureates among its arranged in thematic gar dens and rabbits, in the Animal
fellows and staff. linked by paths. Particularly Discovery Room. You can
The campus (p228) was laid notewor thy are the Asian, design your own rocket and
out by landscape architect African, South American, build a city with Lego bricks.
Frederick Law Olmsted on European, and California And in the National Geo-
the twin forks of Strawberry gardens. The Chinese medi- graphic 3D Theater you can
Creek; changes by San cinal herb garden and the experience science on the
carnivorous plants are also big screen.
well worth a visit. One of California’s largest
INSIDER TIP Running from Down town collections of historical
Take the Train Oakland to UC Berkeley is artifacts pertaining to Jewish
Berkeley can be easily arguably the most stimulat - culture, from ancient times
reached in around 30 ing street in the East Bay: to today, is housed at the
minutes from down­ Telegraph Avenue. The Magnes Collection of Jewish
town San Francisco. blocks near UC Berkeley have Art and Life. Among them are
The Downtown one of the highest concent-
Berkeley BART station rations of bookstores in the
on Shattuck Avenue country, in addition to which
is within walking there are plenty of coffee The striking Cubist­style
distance of the campus. houses and eateries. This Berkeley Art Museum and
district was the center of Pacific Film Archive
226



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fine art treasures from Europe can buy every thing from Telegraph Avenue
and India, paintings by Marc handmade paper and stained- \-= @ AC Transit 800
Chagall and Max Liebermann, glass windows to organically  Downtown Berkeley
and poignant reminders of grown lettuce and designer
Nazi Germany, such as a garden tools. It is also known Lawrence Hall of Science
burned Torah scroll rescued for its restaurants (p229). ⌂ Centennial Dr @ From
from a synagogue. Lec tures, Mining Circle, UC Berkeley
films, and traveling exhibits UC Berkeley (except Sat, Sun & hols)
enliven the halls. ⌂ Visitor Center: 2227  Downtown Berkeley, then
When you are ready for Piedmont Ave  Downtown AC Transit 65 bus # 10am–
something to eat, head for Berkeley 5pm Wed–Sun (Summer:
“Gourmet Ghetto”, a north daily) ∑ lawrencehall
Berkeley neighborhood, which Phoebe A. Hearst Museum ofscience.org
acquired fame as something of Anthropology
of a foodie destination when " = ⌂ 103 Kroeber Hall Magnes Collection of
American chef Alice Waters # 11am–5pm Wed–Sun (to Jewish Art and Life
opened Chez Panisse here 8pm Thu) ∑ hearstmuseum. ⌂ Bancroft Library, UC
in 1971. The restaurant berkeley.edu Berkeley, 2121 Allston Way
on 1517 Shattuck Ave is  Downtown Berkeley,
acclaimed for its use of fresh Berkeley Art Museum @ AC Transit 6, 7, 18,51B, 52,
local ingredients in a French- and Pacific Film Archive 65, 67, 79, 88, F # 11am–4pm
inspired style that gave rise to " -= ⌂ 2155 Center St Tue–Fri (during the academic
what is known as California  Downtown Berkeley year only) ∑ magnes.
cuisine. In its original house # 11am–7pm Wed–Sun (to berkeley.edu
on Shattuck Avenue, Chez 9pm Fri & Sat) ∑ bampfa.org
Panisse has influenced many Gourmet Ghetto
worthy imitators. There is also University Botanical \- ⌂ Upper Shattuck Ave
an abundance of specialty Garden  Downtown Berkeley, then
markets and coffee houses " = ⌂ 200 Centennial Dr AC Transit 7, 18, 67 bus
in the neighborhood. @ H # 9am–5pm daily ∑ gourmetghetto.org
Another rewarding ∑ botanicalgarden.
neighborhood is Fourth berkeley.edu Fourth Street
Street, a gentrified enclave \-= @ AC Transit Z
north of University Avenue,  Ashby, then AC Transit
char acteristic of Berkeley’s 51B, Z bus
climate of fine craftsmanship
and exquisite taste. Here you


































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A LONG WALK
THE UNIVERSITY

OF CALIFORNIA

CAMPUS IN BERKELEY
EXPERIENCE The East Bay Distance 2.5 miles (4 km) Time 50 minutes Life Sciences Building,



Terrain Some sloping paths and hills, which
Follow University
provide beautiful views Nearest BART
Drive past the Valley
station Downtown Berkeley
which contains natural
A V E N U E
This walk concentrates on a distinct area of
history, zoology, and
North
Berkeley: the campus of the distinguished
Gate
Gate
C Y C L O T R O N R O A D
Hearst Mining
University of California (p226). A stroll around paleontology museums. H E A R S T H E A R S T North A V E N U E Hearst Mining G AYL EY ROA D C Y C L O T R O N R O A D
Building
G AYL EY R
the area offers a stimulating glimpse into the Building OA D
East
intellectual, cultural, and social life Tolman Tolman Stanley Stanley East
Hall
Hall
HEARST AVENUE
of this vibrant university town. HEARST AVENUE Hall Hall MINING MINING Gate Gate Hearst Greek
Hearst Greek
CIRCLE
CIRCLE
Its days as “Berzerkeley” – Evans Evans DRIVE DRIVE Theatre Theatre
Hall
Hall
when student protestors and Wellman Wellman UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY Lewis Lewis
tear-gas clouds filled the streets Hall Hall Hall Hall STADIUM STADIUM
Hildebrand
in the 1960s – are only a fading S H AT T U C K S H AT T U C K LeConte LeConte Hildebrand RINGWAY RINGWAY
Hall
Hall
Hall
Hall
memory now, and the campus is A. F. Morrison
UNIVERSITY
A. F. Morrison
a lovely place for a walk, full of UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY Memorial Memorial Campanile Campanile
AVENUE
natural spaces, interesting DRIVE DRIVE Library Library Faculty Faculty P I E D M O N T A V E N U E
architecture to admire, and AV E N U E AV E N U E THE CRESCENT West West Life Sciences California California South South Club Club
Life Sciences
museums to explore. AVENUE OXFORD STREET OXFORD STREET Gate Gate Building Building Hall Hall Hall Hall Faculty Faculty Hertz Hall Hertz Hall
ADDISON STREET
ADDISON STREET Wheeler Wheeler Glade Glade
THE CRESCENT
P I E D M O N T A V E N U E
Hall Hall Wurster Wurster
Hall
Hall
Strawberry Creek
Head into campus Strawberry Creek Sather Sather
CENTER STREET
via The Crescent. CENTER STREET F R A NK SCHLESSINGER W A Y Gate Gate Barrows Barrows
F R A NK SCHLESSINGER W A Y
Alumni Alumni SPROUL SPROUL Hall Hall Kroeber Kroeber
Hall
Hall
B A N C R O F T W A Y
House House PLAZA PLAZA B A N C R O F T W A Y
Downtown Downtown Evans Evans Sproul Sproul
Hall
Hall
B A N C R O F T W A Y
Cross over Strawberry Creek at Berkeley Berkeley Diamond Diamond B A N C R O F T W A Y
Bay Tree Bridge, and bear left Edwards Edwards Zellerbach Zellerbach
for the nature area, with its Stadium Stadium Hall Hall BOWDITCH BOWDITCH V E N U E
eucalyptus trees, some of the KIT TREDGE KIT TREDGE C
D U R A N T A
tallest in the world. STREET STREET W A Y W A Y TELEGRAPH TELEGRAPH AVENUE AVENUE COLLEGE
B A N C R O F T
B A N C R O F T ELLSWORTH E N U E DANA ST DANA ST D U R A N T A V E N U E OLLEGE
C H A N N I N G W A Y
STREET
STREET
A V A V E N U E AVENUE AVENUE C H A N N I N G W A Y
ELLSWORTH
D U R A N T D U R A N T STREET Y
FULTON STREET C H A N N I N G W A
C H A N N I N G W A Y
STREET
FULTON STREET
0 meters 0 meters 300 N 300 N
0 yards 0 yards 300 300
Sather Gate,
an entryway to
campus at the north
end of Sproul Plaza
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University of
California Campus
Several libraries can
be found in the A. F.
Morrison Memorial
SAN
Keep California Hall Library building. FRANCISCO
on your right, then The Bancroft Library Continuing north,
head left past houses the plate cross University
Wheeler Hall and the supposedly left by Drive to the Locator Map
stunning South Hall , Sir Francis Drake, Mining Circle.
the oldest building claiming California Here is the Hearst
on campus. for Queen Elizabeth I. Mining Building,
built in 1907. Return to University
Drive, turn left and out
of the East Gate to the
A V E N U E A V E N U E
North North C Y C L O T R O N R O A D Hearst Greek Theater.
H E A R S T H E A R S T Gate G AYL EY R
Gate
Hearst Mining
C Y C L O T R O N R O A D
Hearst Mining G AYL EY ROA D
Building Building OA D
Stanley Stanley East Take a sharp right
East
Hall
Hall
HEARST AVENUE Tolman Tolman Evans MINING MINING Gate Gate Hearst Greek then left to find the
HEARST AVENUE
Hearst Greek
Hall
Hall
CIRCLE
Faculty Club, a
CIRCLE
Theatre
Theatre
Evans
Hall Hall DRIVE DRIVE rambling, rustic
Wellman Wellman UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY building built in 1903.
Hall Hall Lewis Lewis STADIUM STADIUM Faculty Glade in front
Hall
Hall
Hildebrand
LeConte LeConte Hildebrand RINGWAY RINGWAY of the club is a favorite
Hall Hall Hall Hall picnic spot.
UNIVERSITY
UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY UNIVERSITY A. F. Morrison Campanile
A. F. Morrison
S H AT T U C K
S H AT T U C K
Memorial
AVENUE
Memorial Campanile
DRIVE
DRIVE
Life Sciences
Life Sciences Library Library Faculty Faculty P I E D M O N T A V E N U E Follow the winding
Club
Club
California
West West Building Building California South South path through several
Gate Gate Hall Hall Hall Hall Faculty Faculty Hertz Hall Hertz Hall
ADDISON STREET
ADDISON STREET Wheeler Wheeler Glade Glade buildings to take
THE CRESCENT
THE CRESCENT
AV E N U E
AV E N U E
P I E D M O N T A V E N U E
a look at Kroeber
Hall Hall Wurster Wurster Hall, home of
Hall
Hall
AVENUE OXFORD STREET
OXFORD STREET
CENTER STREET Strawberry Creek Strawberry Creek Sather Sather Hall Barrows the Phoebe A.
CENTER STREET
Gate Barrows
Gate
Hearst Museum
F R A NK SCHLESSINGER W A Y
F R A NK SCHLESSINGER W A Y
Hall
Alumni Alumni SPROUL SPROUL Kroeber Kroeber of Anthropology.
Hall
Hall
B A N C R O F T W A Y
House House PLAZA PLAZA B A N C R O F T W A Y
Downtown Downtown Evans Evans Sproul Sproul
Hall
Hall
B A N C R O F T W A Y
Berkeley Berkeley Diamond Diamond B A N C R O F T W A Y If you’re ready for
Zellerbach Zellerbach a break, there are
Edwards Edwards Hall Hall
Stadium Stadium BOWDITCH BOWDITCH V E N U E lots of cafés and
KIT TREDGE KIT TREDGE C restaurants
D U R A N T A
STREET STREET W A Y W A Y TELEGRAPH TELEGRAPH AVENUE AVENUE COLLEGE between College
B A N C R O F T
B A N C R O F T ELLSWORTH E N U E DANA ST DANA ST D U R A N T A V E N U E OLLEGE Avenue and
Telegraph Avenue.
C H A N N I N G W A Y
STREET
STREET
A V A V E N U E AVENUE AVENUE C H A N N I N G W A Y
D U R A N T D U R A N T STREET Y
ELLSWORTH
C H A N N I N G W A Y Step into the lower Continue along Bancroft
FULTON STREET C H A N N I N G W A
STREET
FULTON STREET
Way to Telegraph Avenue,
courtyard with its famous for the student
modern Zeller bach activism of the 1960s and
0 meters 0 meters 300 N 300 N Hall, then pass Alumni 1970s. The entrance to
House, noting the the university opposite
0 yards 0 yards 300 300
state-of-the-art Telegraph Avenue opens
Haas Pavilion. onto Sproul Plaza.
Sather Tower, with the Golden
Gate Bridge in the distance
229
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Did You Know?
The Giant Dipper
reaches a height
of 70 ft (21 m) and
speeds of 55 mph
EXPERIENCE The Peninsula
(89 km/h).























17 "-=
SANTA CRUZ BEACH


BOARDWALK


⌂ 400 Beach St, Santa Cruz # 11am – 8pm daily ∑ beachboardwalk.com
The historic Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk is a classic seaside amusement park
that’s both eye-catching and fun. Hosting thrill rides and family-friendly
attractions, it has an enviable setting overlooking the beach.

Dating from 1907 and dominating the Santa
Cruz waterfront, the Boardwalk is the oldest
amusement park on the West Coast. The entire
Boardwalk is a California Historic Landmark,
and although most of the original amusements
have been replaced by modern rides, two still-
functioning centenary rides are National
Historic Landmarks. The first of these is
the classic Looff carousel; one of only five
remaining in the USA, it was built in 1911 and
features hand-carved horses, which spin to
music from a 19th-century pipe organ. But
the main attraction is undoubtedly the Giant
Visitors swarming between the brightly Dipper roller-coaster, whose wave-like tracks
colored rides along the Boardwalk soar up above the Boardwalk. Built in 1924, this
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Must See



































Skyline of the Boardwalk’s
amusement park, dominated
by the Giant Dipper


TOP BOARDWALK
4 HIGHLIGHTS
Wild Rides
There are over two
dozen rides for thrill-
seekers to enjoy.
Sweet Snacks
From cotton candy
Visitors and churros to fish and
enjoying chips, you’ll be spoilt for
a sunset ride choice come snack time.
on the Sky Glider
Sea Lions
red-and-white landmark still provides riders with a swooping, Head to the Santa Cruz
heart-pounding adrenaline rush. The apogee of the Giant Wharf to watch the sea
Dipper, along with those of other thrill rides along the lions relax in the sun.
Boardwalk, offers a postcard view of sand, sea, and the Santa
Cruz Pier. Slightly more low-key attractions in the area include a Main Beach
video arcade, a laser tag arena and laser maze challenge, and A sandy stretch with
volleyball nets and gen-
even an ice-skating rink in winter. There are also plenty of tle waves, and movies
gentler rides that aim to delight toddlers. If the crowds become screened in summer.
too much, head to the Santa Cruz Wharf for a leisurely stroll or a
quiet coffee break, and stunning views from the pier.
231



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18 \-=
HALF


MOON BAY


EXPERIENCE The Peninsula A perfect weekend getaway, the small town of Half Moon Bay – located between
@ n 235 Main Street; www.visithalfmoonbay.org
San Francisco and Santa Cruz – is home to great beaches and some of the world’s
most epic waves and surfing contests. It also falls along the gray whale coastal
migration path, offering front-row seats to this magnificent spectacle.

(6 km). While it’s ideal for long, leisurely walks,
Founded in the 1840s as a small fishing and
agricultural community, Half Moon Bay later
At the north end of the bay is Mirada Surf Beach,
developed as a beach resort. Its Main Street
still displays renovated Victorian buildings swimming is not advised due to rip currents.
at the lively resort of El Granada. Sheltered
that house quaint art galleries, shops and within its harbor – once a whaling station – are
restaurants. Inland, the Pilarcitos Creek three lovely beaches that are safe for swimming,
watershed protects many rare wildlife species. including Princeton Beach and Pillar Point
Half Moon Bay’s State Beach is comprised of Harbor Beach. Outside the harbor, white-sand
four contiguous beaches Mavericks Beach has panoramic bay views and
(Francis, Venice, is a great place for experienced surfers to tackle
Dunes, and the region’s legendary waves.
Roosevelt) Another good spot in the Half Moon Bay area
that unfurl is the photogenic Montara Lighthouse. It was
for 4 miles trans ferred from Cape Cod in 1928, and from



































232



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Must See










2


1

here gray whales may be glimpsed migrating
close to shore during winter. To its south,
scimitar-shaped Moss Beach is popular for the
Fitzgerald Marine Reserve; its tidepools teem
with starfish, anemones, and crabs at low tide.
Pumpkins are a major crop around Half Moon
Bay, and the annual Art & Pumpkin Festival is a 3
highlight of the local calendar. In late October,
250,000 visitors pour in for the weekend-long 1 The patio at the Half Moon Bay Brewing
festival featuring costume and pie-eating Company is a popular spot in summer.
contests, and a parade of gargantuan gourds 2 Many species of wildlife may be found
(which often exceed 1,000 kg/2,200 lbs in in the region, including pelicans.
weight). The festival also includes arts and crafts, 3 The gentle curve of the bay’s coastline
music concerts, and tasty pumpkin-based treats. is also home to a links golf course.



EAT


Sam’s Chowder
House
A waterfront favorite
known for its signature
New England-style
chowder. Head outside
for firepits on the patio.
⌂ 42010 N. Cabrillo Hwy
∑ samschowder
house.com
\\\

Half Moon Bay
Brewing Company
Hearty dishes such as
fish and chips washed
down by choice brews,
from a light pilsner to a
creamy dark stout.
⌂ 390 Capistrano Rd
∑ hmbbrewingco.com
\\\
Stretches of beach in Half Moon
Bay, which may offer either
gentle surf or giant waves (inset)
233



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THE PENINSULA



19 San Jose, The Winchester INSIDER TIP
®
Mystery House is one of
San Jose the city's oldest and most Cosplay Days
unique attractions. In 1884 Over Memorial Day
k £ @ v n 408 Almaden Sarah Winchester, heiress of weekend, visitors to
EXPERIENCE The Peninsula of California, San Jose is husband. She consulted a streets full of people in
Blvd; www.sanjose.org
the rifle fortune, was grieving
downtown San José
will probably find the
The original capital city
over the loss of her child and
medium who advised her
elaborate costumes.
now the nation's capital
The sudden influx of
for innovation and industry,
to build a house that would
robots and super heroes
home to major companies
never be comp leted, in order
is due to 30,000 people
to silence the evil spirits that
like Adobe, Samsung, and
descending on the city
eBay, with headquarters
haunted her. She employed
for Apple Inc, Facebook, and
FanimeCon, one of the
Google also located nearby.
built 160 rooms set amidst
country’s largest anime
beautiful gardens. The stair-
As the tenth largest city in carpenters for 38 years and every year to enjoy
the US with many residents ways that lead nowhere and and comics conventions.
being professionals in hi-tech windows set into the floor
industries, San Jose citizens are just a few of the oddities
enjoy high disposable income, within. Book a Flashlight Tour of museums. Inspired by the
although this is slightly offset to see it at its creepiest. Temple of Amon at Karnak,
by its astronomical rents. For more standard – but no Egypt, the Rosicrucian
In contrast to the modern less fascinating – attractions, Egyptian Museum houses
atmosphere of downtown San Jose also has its fair share ancient Egyptian, Babylon ian,
Assyrian, and Sumerian
artifacts. Funerary boats,
mummies, Coptic textiles,
pottery, jewelry, and a full-
size tomb are on display. The
museum’s accompanying
planetarium – one of the
oldest in the country – also
has daily and special weekend
shows. The Tech Museum
of Innovation is a colorful
technological museum
divided into several themed
galleries, including explor-
ation, biodesign and virtual
reality. Many of the exhibits
have a “hands-on” element,
such as designing robots or
measuring your moods with
wearable technology. The
Body Worlds Decoded
exhibition uses augmented
reality to examine what is
going on inside the human
body. The Children’s
Discovery Museum is great
for families and kids of all
ages. Children can play in a
real red fire engine or in an
The weird and wonderful
Winchester Mystery House ®
set in beautiful gardens
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The Tech Museum of
Innovation, downtown
San Jose




EAT

Outdoor dining is a
way of life in sunny
California, and San Jose
offers lots of options for
those who want to join
in the tradition.
SP2 Communal Bar +
Restaurant
⌂ 72 N Almaden Ave
ambulance with flashing Tech Museum of ¢ Mon ∑ sp2sanjose.
lights, and the more Innovation com.
adventurous can climb trees "- = ⌂ 201 South Market
connected by sky bridges St (at Park Ave) # 10am– \\\
in the outdoor Tree Climber. 5pm daily ∑ thetech.org
At the Waterways exhibit, kids Scott’s Seafood
will enjoy discovering the Children’s Discovery ⌂ 185 Park Ave
special properties of water Museum ∑ scottsseafoodsj.com
by creating unique fountains " -= ⌂ 180 Woz Way \\\
from magnetic half-pipes. # 10am–4pm Tue–Sat (to
There's even a hands-on, 5pm Sat), noon–5pm Sun;
early-learning exhibit for Summer: also 10am–4pm Siena Bistro
children aged 0–4. Mon ∑ cdm.org ⌂ 1359 Lincoln Ave
# Sun & Mon
For a museum with a twist, ∑ sienabistro.com
History Park is a charming History Park
attraction in Kelley Park that " ⌂ 1650 Senter Rd \\\
re-creates San Jose as it was # Noon–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am–
in the early 20th century. 5pm Sat & Sun ∑ historysan
More than 21 original houses jose.org
and businesses have been
restored and set around a
town square. They include
a fire station, an ice-cream
parlor with a working soda
fountain, a gas station, and
a vintage trolley that travels
around the grounds.
The Winchester Mystery
House ®
"'- = ⌂ 525 South
Winchester Blvd # 9am–
5pm daily ∑ winchester
mysteryhouse.com
Rosicrucian Egyptian
Museum
" ⌂ 1660 Park Ave
# 9am–5pm Wed–Fri, 10am–
6pm Sat & Sun ∑ egyptian Families exploring a fire engine at the
museum.org Children’s Discovery Museum, San Jose
235



234-235_EW_San_Francisco.indd 235 30/11/2018 12:07

The Romanesque-style
arches of the Memorial
Church, Stanford University

for the world’s largest seals,
which leave the sea to mate,
give birth, and laze in the sun.
EXPERIENCE The Peninsula son, and opened in 1891. bigger than females) engage
In winter months, males
(which are typically five times
in bloody battles for harem
dominance. Visits are limited
to guided naturalist walks
during mating season. Stellar
sea lions also breed here, and
20 '
Stanford University
aging in the kelp. In addition,
is the Main Quad, designed
Año Nuevo Point is a great
mainly in Romanesque style.
⌂ Palo Alto £ Caltrain The heart of the campus sea otters can be seen for­
birding spot. Viewing the seals
The main landmarks are the
to Palo Alto station
∑ stanford.edu Hoover Tower, the Memorial requires a 3­mile (5­km) hike
Church, and the Stanford along sandy trails.
One of the country’s most University Museum of Art,
prestigious private univer­ where you can see the Golden
sities, with over 16,000 Spike that completed the
students, Stanford was built transcontinental railroad in Did you know?
by railroad mogul Leland 1869. The Cantor Arts Center
Stanford in memory of his owns an impressive collection The Pescadero State
of Rodin sculptures. For Beach is a long swath
guided tours of the college of sand backed by
phone 650­723­2560. rocky cliffs.
STAY
21 "'
Stanford Park Hotel Año Nuevo
This colonial-style ⌂ Take Cabrillo Hwy, then
building oozes
grandeur, from the New Years Creek Rd
antiques in the lobby to # 8am–6pm daily
the elegant grounds. ∑ parks.ca.gov
⌂ 100 El Camino Real, In the 19th­century, northern
Menlo Park elephant seals were hunted
∑ stanfordpark almost to extinction for their
hotel.com oil­rich blubber. They dis­
appeared from many trad­
\\\
itional habitats along the
Pacific Coast, including Año
Pescadero Creek Inn Nuevo. Descendants of the
A quiet and charming survivors began showing
spot for those who up here in the 1950s. Today,
want to get out of the a year­round population is
busy cities of the Bay protected within this State
Area and back to nature. Park, 20 miles (32 km) north
⌂ 393 Stage Rd, of Santa Cruz. The site is a
Pescadero traditional breeding ground
∑ pescadero
creekinn.com
\\\
Remote and beautiful
Pigeon Point Lighthouse
near Pescadero
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22 paint was rescued from a 23 "'
nearby shipwreck.
Pescadero Eight miles (12 km) south Filoli
is Pigeon Point Light Station
 Daly City, then SamTrans State Historic Park, where ⌂ 86 Cañada Rd, near
118 to Linda Mar park and Edgewood Rd, Woodside
ride, then 17 bus visitors can enjoy the scenery # 10am–5pm Tue–Sun
and views. Tours of the area ∑ filoli.org
Only an hour’s drive from are offered by volunteers at
San Francisco to the north 1pm from Thursday through The lavish 43-room Filoli
and Silicon Valley to the east, Monday (call 650-879-2120 to mansion was built in 1915 for
the picturesque town of check availability or book). William Bourne II, owner of
Pescadero is a pleasant About 20 minutes south, the Empire Gold Mine. Gold
escape from the fast-paced families can enjoy Swanton from the mine was used in
world around it. Athough it Berry Farm’s Coastways its opulent decoration. The
contains little more than a Ranch U-Pick for an elegant house is surrounded
white-washed church (the afternoon of fruit-picking. by a large, enchanting garden,
oldest in the county), a with many English garden-
general store, a post office, Pigeon Point Light Station style features, and an estate
and the popular Duarte’s State Historic Park where guided nature walks,
Tavern along its two main '= ⌂ 210 Pigeon Point Rd as well as tours of the orchard
streets, the town has the # 8am–sunset ∑ parks.ca. can be arranged. “Filoli”
charming and photogenic gov stands for “Fight, love, live,”
appearance of an old movie which refers to Bourne’s love
set. Its many white-washed Coastways Ranch U-Pick for the Irish and their struggle.
buildings follow a tradition " ⌂ 640 Hwy 1 # May–Oct: You can either visit the house
that goes back to the 19th 8am–5pm ∑ swantonberry on your own or take a guided
century, when a cargo of white farm.com tour, which costs a little extra.













































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EXPERIENCE Napa Valley












24 the vast grounds, with vine-
combed slopes and shaded
NAPA VALLEY picnic areas. Book in advance
to take a tour through the
cellars and listen to the
WINE fascinating history of this
family-run winery, which was
started in San Francisco in the
COUNTRY 19th century, destroyed by
Prohibition and, finally,
resurrected here in 1976.
@ n 600 Main St, Napa; www.visitnapavalley.com
Since the legendary Judgment of Paris in 1976 – when 3 \
the Napa Valley wines beat Burgundy to top honours The French Laundry
in both the red and white categories – this region has
been firmly on every wine-lover’s radar. People also ⌂ 6640 Washington St,
come for the experience; to tour grand chateaux, dine Yountville @ 10 # Times
vary, see website
at world-renowned restaurants, and sip small-batch ∑ thomaskeller.com
wines in tiny, boutique tasting rooms.
Possibly the most coveted
tables in Napa Valley are
exterior leading to a sleek those that fill the chic
1 '\= space with daily tastings dining room of Thomas
Charles Krug Winery of limited-release wines. Keller’s venerable restaurant.
⌂ 2800 Main St, St. Helena
# 10:30am–5pm daily
∑ charleskrug.com 2 '-=
Many firsts can be attributed V. Sattui
to Napa Valley’s oldest winery. ⌂ 1111 White Lane, St. Helena
Charles Krug, who founded # 9am–6pm daily (Winter:
the estate in 1861, was a to 5pm) ∑ vsattui.com
pioneer of varietal labelling.
It was also the first to import With tasting room staff
French oak barrels for wine pouring everything from
aging. The tasting room, yet estate cabernet to champagne-
another first in California method bubbles, you can’t
when it opened to the public really go wrong at V. Sattui. A glass of Twin Oaks
in 1882, is the crowning glory, Even those who aren’t wine wine being served at
with a soft peach, Tuscan-style lovers can delight in exploring Robert Mondavi winery
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Must See
renowned cabernets
and signature fumé blanc,
fermented with sauvignon
blanc grapes. Visitors can
join tasting flights, cellar 6 '=
tastings with reserve wines, Opus One Winery
and barrel room tours.
⌂ 7900 St. Helena Hwy,
Oakville @ 10 # 10am–
4pm daily ∑ opusone
5 '\= winery.com
Domaine Chandon Opus One was founded in
1979 as an unprecedented
⌂ 1 California Dr, Yountville
@ 29 # 10am–5pm daily joint venture between two
∑ chandon.com wine legends – Napa Valley’s
Robert Mondavi and Baron
From classic brut to blushing Philippe de Rothschild,
rosé, it’s all about the bubbles founder of Château Mouton
at Domaine Chandon, a lavish Rothschild in Bordeaux,
estate founded by Moët & France. Their plan was to
Chandon in 1973. While it create a single, world-class
The rolling hills and exudes a certain French Bordeaux blend based on
stunning golden elegance, there’s nothing California cabernet, and
vineyards of Napa Valley stuffy about the atmos phere. their legacy is a wine that
As befits a spot specializing in is consistently considered
fizz, a visit here is all about one of Napa’s best.
Its unlikely location in the having a good time. The striking stone building
rural village of Yountville, Experiences range from of the winery, tucked low
and the cozy atmosphere tasting flights, including the against the hillside, hosts
inside, belie the intense work estate’s still varieties, to intimate, appointment-
that goes into the ever- weekend mixology classes, only tastings of the current
changing daily menu. Each when participants can make vintage, or you can book
of the nine courses is under- and sip cocktails using the a tour to explore the vast
pinned by classical French signature sparkling wine. grounds and production areas.
cooking and Keller’s formid-
able imagination, which has
earned his restaurant the top 0 kilometers 5 N
Michelin rating of three stars. Deer Park
0 miles 5
Charles Krug Winery
Joseph Phelps
4 '\= St. Helena Vineyards Lake Kuleto
Estate
Robert Mondavi V. Sattui Hennessey
Winery Zinfandel Frog’s Leap Winery
Beaulieu Vineyard
⌂ 7801 St. Helena Hwy, Rutherford
Oakville @ 10 # Times Opus One Winery
vary, see website ∑ robert Robert Mondavi
Winery
mondaviwinery.com Oakville
Cliff Lede Winery
The flagship estate of one
of Napa’s pioneering vineyard Yountville The French Laundry
owners is styled to resemble Domaine Chandon Stag’s Leap Winery
California’s Spanish missions, Clos du Val
with graceful arches and a Napa Valley SILVERADO TRAIL
Museum
vast, elegant courtyard. A Darioush
The Hess
passionate ambassador for Collection
Napa Valley wines until his Napa
death in 2008, Robert Mondavi Salvador
is credited with helping to Sonoma Creek Fontanella Union
elevate the area to one of the Family Vineyard
world’s most recognised wine
regions. Still family-run, the Sonoma Buena Vista Winery Napa
winery continues to pour its
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NAPA VALLEY TOP LUXURY
3 EXPERIENCES
IN NAPA VALLEY
25 generation of cooking talent Napa Valley Aloft
at the onsite restaurant. You’ll
St. Helena discover some of the area’s Hot-air balloons launch
most revered wine estates, daily at sunrise for
@ n 1320 Main St; www. including Charles Krug (p238) peaceful voyages over
EXPERIENCE Napa Valley Napa Valley’s towns, St. Helena Culinary Institute of Francisco’s skyline
sthelena.com
the vineyards, with
and Beringer, in the surr­
distant views of San
ounding vine­clad hillsides.
Perhaps the most polished of
(www.nvaloft.com).
overflows with the temptation
America at Greystone
to shop, sip, and eat. The
Spa Terra at
charming and quaint Main
\ ⌂ 2555 Main St, St. Helena
Meritage Resort
Street is packed with cocktail
∑ ciachef.edu
bars and restaurants firmly
this resort offers
focused on vibrant local and
treatments, mineral
seasonal ingredients. You can Beringer Nestled in a wine cave,
" ' # 10am–5:30pm daily
pools and heat rooms
delve deeper into the scene at ∑ beringer.com (www.meritage
the Culinary Institute of collection.com).
America at Greystone;
responsible for training many 26 Napa Valley
a star chef, the institute also Wine Train
offers cooking classes, dem­ Calistoga Pullman carriages chug
onstrations and tastings. @ n 1133 Washington St; through the landscape
Or you can enjoy a more www.visitcalistoga.com for tasting tours or
leisurely experience with a fine-dining experiences
meal cooked by the next At the northern tip of the (www.winetrain.com).
Napa Valley, the laid­back
town of Calistoga is renowned
for its geothermal waters and
mud baths. The resorts here guests can slather on mud
take full advantage of both, before drying out in the sun.
offering indulgent spa treat­ The main drag of Lincoln
ments and pools fed by hot Avenue is dotted with quirky
springs. Typical of the town’s gift stores, bookshops, and
retro­cool vibe is Calistoga galleries. The hill sides are
Motor Lodge & Spa, with its dominated by grand wineries,
tucked­away garden, where including Castello di










The Napa Valley
Wine Train passing
by a vineyard
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Amorosa, housed in a
medieval-style castle. And,
with direct access to the
famed routes of Highway 29
and the Silverado Trail, there
are plenty more wine-tasting
opportunities nearby.
Calistoga Motor Lodge
& Spa
⌂ 1880 Lincoln Ave
∑ calistoga motorlodge
andspa.com
Castello di Amorosa
" ' ⌂ 4045 St. Helena Hwy
∑ castellodiamorosa.com


27 "-=
Old Faithful Geyser
⌂ 1299 Tubbs Ln, Calistoga
@ 10, 29 # 8:30am–7pm
daily (Oct–Feb: to 5pm)
∑ oldfaithfulgeyser.com
Though not as famous as An eruption of boiling
the bigger "Old Faithful" in water and steam at
Wyoming, California's smaller Old Faithful Geyser
version is still one of the few
geysers in the world erupting
at predictable intervals (every particularly picturesque picnic plenty of opportunities for
20–30 minutes). Its occasional backdrop. The grounds around wine sampling at tasting
failure to erupt has been the geyser contain a geology rooms and bonded wineries;
linked to imminent earth- museum, gardens, and a farm. at Vintner’s Collective you
quakes. Cast ing a light mist Try not to frighten the goats can try small-batch wines not
through the air and often here: these black-and-white available anywhere else.
creating a hazy rain bow, creatures are Tennessee
the eruptions make for a Fainting Goats, which stiffen Blue Note
and topple over when they \ ⌂ 1030 Main St # Times
sense danger. Other weird and vary, check website
wonderful animals occupying ∑ bluenotenapa.com
a section of the site’s grounds
include four-horn sheep and Vintner’s Collective
guard llamas. " ⌂ 1245 Main St
# 11am–7pm daily
∑ vintnerscollective.com
28
Napa INSIDER TIP
Microclimate
@ n 1331 1st St, Napa;
www.napatouristinfo.com Napa Valley has several
microclimates that can
There’s an undeniable air of cause the temperature
sophistication to downtown to vary considerably
Napa, from Michelin-starred from north to south,
dining to the excellent Blue and by as much as 30 °F
Note jazz club, and First (15 °C) from morning to
Street Napa – an open-air night. Pack carefully so
shopping mall with boutiques you don't get caught out
and galleries – all clust ered by a sudden chill.
within a few blocks. There are
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29 \-=
HEALDSBURG



@ n 217 Healdsburg Ave; www.healdsburg.com
Nestled in the Alexander Valley and surrounded by the nation’s top
wine regions, Healdsburg is a beautiful town with a small-village feel.
EXPERIENCE Sonoma County and wine-tasting rooms.
Its tree-shaded streets are lined with Victorian
mansions that house boutiques, restaurants,


Today this lively and progressive river -
front town combines old-fashioned
charm with hip eateries. At its heart
is a classic 19th-century Spanish plaza,
shaded by soaring coast redwoods
and surroun ded by excellent antiques
stores. The Russian River runs through
town, and visitors can enjoy canoeing
and kayak ing at various points along its
length. On one bend of the river in the
south side of town lies Veterans Memorial
Beach, a silvery swath of sand beside the
historic steel-truss Memorial Bridge. This
popular stretch is staffed with lifeguards,
and offers calm swimming in summer.
Healdsburg Museum
This regional museum is a hidden gem housed
in the neo-Classical Healdsburg Library, which
is located on Matheson Street. Entry is free,
and inside it profiles the history of Sonoma
County with fascinating exhibits that include
Native American Pomo and Wapo basketry,
and an eclectic miscellany of historical
artifacts. A touch-screen computer station
also offers an animated 3D tour of the plaza.





















The meticulously tended
Diners sitting beneath wide canopies vines and fruit (inset) of a
at one of Healdsburg’s many restaurants vineyard in Healdsburg
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Must See


EAT &
Did You Know?
Smithsonian magazine DRINK
placed Healdsburg
second in its 2014 list SingleThread
of “America’s 20 Best The 11-course tasting
Small Towns.” menu uses ingredients
fresh from the
restaurant’s own farm.
You’ll need to book well
in advance to enjoy this
popular Michelin-
starred spot.
⌂ 131 North St ∑ single
threadfarms.com
\\\

SHED Café
Located in a stylish,
airy space, this hip
restaurant serves
a fusion menu using
fresh, locally sourced
organic produce.
⌂ 25 North Street
∑ healdsburgshed.com
\\\
The Brass Rabbit
Bare brick walls and a
wooden floor comple-
ment a menu of
American classics,
served alongside
cocktails such as Mint
Juleps and Manhattans.
⌂ 109 Plaza St
∑ thebrassrabbit
healdsburg.com
\\\



Wineries
Located at the junction of three major wine-
growing regions, Healdsburg is surrounded by
dozens of wineries, most of which are open to
visit. South of town, Rodney Strong Vineyards
offers complimentary tours and year-round
events, many hosted in an outdoor amphi-
theater. Nearby, the ruggedly beautiful Chalk
Hill Estate has a renowned culinary program.
And at Ferrari-Carano, a gorgeous Italianate
winery in Dry Creek Valley, paths meander
through a 5 acre (2-ha) garden that boasts a
kaleidoscope of color throughout the year.
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SONOMA COUNTY



there are Bocce ball courts,
30 "'\= swimming pool, and a
Francis Ford Coppola Performing Arts Pavilion, the
Winery venue for free live entertain-
ment every weekend from
EXPERIENCE Sonoma County 9pm daily ∑ francisford 31
⌂ 300 Via Archimedes,
April through October.
Geyserville @ 60 # 11am–
coppolawinery.com
This resort winery produces
Bodega Bay
award-winning wines and
is famous as the quasi
@ n 913 Hwy 1; www.
Hollywood of Wine Country
bodegabay.com
estates. Movie producer (and
winery owner) Francis Ford
Bodega Bay appeared in
Coppola has stamped his
legacy throughout the French- In 1963 the coastal town of 10 miles
Alfred Hitchock’s The Birds. In
style stone château. Sampling the tiny neighboring town of
wines here is secondary to Boedga, visitors can still see The length of coast
admiring the displays of iconic the Potter Schoolhouse, which designated as Sonoma
memorabilia from Coppola’s was used in the film. The area Coast State Park
movies, including Don is now a very popular resort (16 km).
Corleone’s desk from The destination known for its sea-
Godfather and Colonel Kurtz’s weathered clapboard homes,
uniform from Apocalypse Now. golf courses, and nearby
Scenes from the movies are beaches. It also boasts a
screened and Coppola’s thriving deep-sea fishing of Sonoma Coast State Park,
Oscars are on display. Don’t community, and visitors can which is scalloped with miles
miss the Bottling Ballet watch the fishing fleets of sandy coves separated by
Mécanique Tour, a behind-the- unload their day’s catch at surging headlands and rocky
scenes tour of the bottling Tides Wharf dock on Highway 1. bluffs. Swimming is generally
plant. Coppola’s personal Bodega Head, the rugged not safe owing to strong
Italian passion for fine food hook-like peninsula that waves and undertows, but the
is reflected in a gourmet shelters Bodega Bay, is one area offers fabulous clifftop
restaurant with gorgeous of California’s best whale- hiking and sublime vistas.
views from the terrace over watching points. The northern
the Alexander Valley. Plus, end of the bay marks the start Sonoma Coast State Park
∑ parks.ca.gov
32
Guerneville
@ n 16200 First St; www.
guerneville-online.com
Surrounded by towering
redwoods, this charmingly
rustic town spans the wide,
lazy Russian River in the heart
of the Russian River Valley
Wine Region. It’s known for its
famously laid-back attitudes
and for its riverside resorts,
many popular with a gay
clientele. Main Street is lined
with trendy art galleries, bout-
Patrons enjoying food on the terrace iques, and cafés, many housed
at Francis Ford Coppola Winery in quaint Victorian buildings,
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One of the sandy coves that
characterizes Sonoma Coast
State Park, near Bodega Bay

gaily colored as if by Crayola. enclave of fine-dining, majestic coast redwoods
In summer, you can rent a galleries and boutiques, built provides a cool summer
chair and umbrella and spend in the early 20th century by escape amid the world’s
a few hours lazing on the Italian stone masons. Don’t tallest living things. The tallest
riverside gray-sand Johnson’s miss the Church of the One tree in the grove, Parson’s
Beach; float in a rented inner- Tree, built in 1873 from the Tree, soars to 310 feet (95 m).
tube; or get some exercise on wood of a single redwood Hiking beneath the soaring
a paddle boat or kayak. The tree; and the Sonoma County canopy – or better still,
beach has a roped-off “kiddy Museum, dedicated to the camping – is a sublime
pool” and is open on week- arts and history of the Wine experience. Several inter-
ends from May through Region. Cartoon-lovers will linked self-guided nature
September. Camping in appreciate the Charles M. trails total 6 miles (9 km).
nearby Armstrong Redwoods Schultz Museum, honoring
State Park is serenely Snoopy and his creator. On
satisfying any time of year. the edge of downtown, the
And you’ll want to visit some Luther Burbank Home &
of the more than 50 local Gardens preserves a modest
wineries, such as Korbel Greek Revival house where STAY
Champagne Cellars, famous horticulturalist Luther
for its California Champagnes. Burbank lived and conducted Farmhouse Inn
plant-breeding experiments. Wine on arrival, a
Korbel Champagne Cellars For a bucolic escape, Shiloh Michelin-starred
' ⌂ 13250 River Rd, Ranch Regional Park is laced restaurant, and suites
Guerneville ∑ korbel.com with trails and rich in wildlife,. with enormous double-
sided fireplaces all
contribute to the sense
33 34 " of understated luxury
Santa Rosa Armstrong Redwoods at this secluded hotel.
Rooms are arranged
State Park
@ n 9 Fourth St; www. around the outdoor pool
visitsantarosa.com ⌂ 17000 Armstrong and surrounded by
Woods Rd, Guerneville quiet woodlands.
At the northern end of the @ 20, 28 # 8am to 1 hour ⌂ 7871 River Rd,
Sonoma Valley, Santa Rosa after sunset daily Forestville
is the largest city in wine ∑ parks.ca.gov ∑ farmhouseinn.com
country. This peaceful town is
a lively center for the arts and Only a five-minute drive from \\\
has many sites of interest. A Guerneville, but a whole world
good place to start is Railroad away from urbanity, this 1.3 sq
Square Historic District, a hip mile (3.3 sq km) grove of
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35 " 36 "' GREAT VIEW
Fort Ross State Gloria Ferrer Mission Trail
Historic Park Champagne Caves The Mission San
⌂ 19005 Coast Hwy 1 ⌂ 23555 Arnold Dr, Sonoma Francisco Solano is the
@ 95 # Sunrise–sunset @ 32 # 10am–5pm daily last of the 21 missions
daily; buildings: 10am– ∑ gloriaferrer.com on the Historic Mission
Trail that you come to,
4:30pm ∑ parks.ca.gov This beautiful Spanish Mission- traveling north from
EXPERIENCE Sonoma County Historic Park preserves a Sonoma, is renowned for its 37 and most still operate as
San Diego. All are loc­
style winery and large estate,
Occupying a breezy ocean-
ated on or near Hwy 101
5 miles (8 km) south of
front perch, Fort Ross State
Catholic parishes.
distinctive sparkling wines
wooden stockade comm -
unity that flourished as the
using Méthode Champenoise
southernmost Russian settle-
blends. Located in the Los
Carneros AVA (American
ment in North America from
Viticultural Area) at the south-
1821 to 1841. Named for
Sonoma
Rossia (Russia), it was
the winery’s distinct terroir is
established by the Russian–
influenced by the cool air and
American Company as an
sonomacity.org
creeping fogs of the Pacific
agricultural colony and ern end of the Sonoma Valley, @ n 453 1st St East; www.
base for hunting sea otters. Ocean: perfect conditions One of California’s most
The reconst ructed and for grow ing Chardonnay picturesque towns, Sonoma
restored buildings offer a and Pinot Noir grapes that is graced with quaint buildings
fascinating insight into life are used for Gloria Ferrer’s recalling its Spanish-Mexican
for Russians in the con tested famous “blanc de noirs” – heritage. The compact town
world of early 19th-century sparkling wine made from dates back to 1823 and is of
California. A scenic trail leads red grape varieties. The immense historic importance.
from the Visitor Center and tasting room is open for It was here on June 14, 1846,
Museum to the wooden tours for a fee. You can sit that American farmers seized
stockade. The only original on the outside terrace, the Mexican governor, General
Russian structure is Rotcher where you can enjoy picnics Mariano Vallejo, and declared
House, which belonged to the and specialty culinary exper- an independent republic.
company manager, decor ated iences, such as Spanish tapas Twenty-five days later,
with homely furnishings. pairings. Chocoholics might the United States annexed
The Kuskov House displays like to sample the chocolate- California. The bronze monu-
weapons and agricultural covered Blanc de Noirs – ment at the northeast corner
tools, while another building a bottle of sparkling wine of grassy Sonoma Plaza,
is devoted to the crafts – dipped in melted chocolate, recalls the “Bear Flag
including tanning, carpentry, then chilled; you break the Rebellion.” Sites of historic
and black smith ing – which “zip tab” to nibble on bite-size significance surround the
sus tained the Russians. A tiny chunks of chocolate plaza, including the 1823
Russian Orthodox chapel is between sips. Each Mission San Francisco Solano.
adorned with reli gious icons. summer, the winery It’s flanked by the Sonoma
Don’t miss the nearby Russian hosts the Catalan Barracks, headquarters of the
Cemetery, with its weather- Festival of Food, Mexican Army; and La Casa
beaten wooden crosses. Wine & Music. Grande, an adobe building






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The alluring Russian River
lazily winding its way past
lushly forested banks

that was Vallejo’s first home. including his writing desk and
A ten-minute stroll brings you 38 "' early copies of his works.
to Vallejo’s later home, the Jack London State
Gothic Revival Lachryma Historic Park
Montis. Other treats include ⌂ 2400 London Ranch Rd, 39
the former Toscano Hotel, Glen Ellen # Mar–Nov:
furnished in turn-of-the-20th 9:30am–5pm daily Russian River
century decor and, next door, ∑ jacklondonpark.com n 16200 First St,
the Sonoma Cheese Factory. Guerneville; www.
Sonoma is bursting with A short drive north of Sonoma russianriver.com
trendy art galleries, bout- leads to the Jack London State
iques, restaurants, and wine- Historic Park. In the early The second largest river
tasting rooms, tempting you 1900s, London, author of in the Bay Area – after the
wisely to linger. The Call of the Wild (1903) Sacramento River – Russian
East of Sonoma’s plaza and The Sea-Wolf (1904), River starts in the Laughlin
is the restored Mission San abandoned his hectic life - Range in Mendocino County
Francisco Solano de Sonoma, style to live in this 1-sq-mile and flows south for 110 miles
the last of California’s 21 (3-sq-km) expanse of oaks, (177 km). All along the river
historic Franciscan missions. madrones, and red woods. are camp grounds, beaches,
Father José Altimira of Spain The park retains eerie ruins redwood forests, wineries,
founded the mission in 1823 of London’s dream home, day spas, and charming
at a time when California was the Wolf House, which was towns, making it a great trip
under Mexican rule. Today, all mysteriously destroyed by whether you’re after action
that survives of the original fire just before completion. and adven ture or simply
building is the corridor of After London’s death in some peace and tranquility.
Father Altimira’s quarters. 1916, his widow, Charmian The river spills into the Pacific
Kittredge, built a magnificent Ocean near the hamlet of
Mission San Francisco home on the ranch, called the Jenner. Here hundreds of
Solano de Sonoma House of Happy Walls. Today grey harbour seals bask in
" ' ⌂ 114 E Spain St it is a museum, well worth a the sun on Goat Rock Beach,
# 10am–5pm daily visit for its display of Jack which was used as a location
∑ parks.ca.gov London memo rabilia, in the film The Goonies.

The park retains eerie ruins of London’s
dream home, the Wolf House, which
Fine historic buildings
in Sonoma, recalling its was mysteriously destroyed by fire
Spanish-Mexican past just before completion.
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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Bay









Monterey’s historic
Cannery Row, a six-block
street on the harbor

40 for Ocean View Avenue, as the
name “Cannery Row” was
MONTEREY formalized in 1958. The last
cannery closed in 1973
industry due to over-fishing,
@ v n 401 Camino El Estero; www.seemonterey.com following the collapse of the
and the area fell into decay.
Monterey was established by the Spanish in 1770, Today the canneries have been
and served as the capital of northern California converted into hotels, eclectic
under Spanish and later Mexican rule. During the shops, wine-tasting rooms,
Mexican–American War (1846–8), the US flag was and restaurants, including the
raised over the town and northern California became Sardine Factory, which opened
in 1968 and signaled the
part of the United States. Today Monterey has several renaissance of Cannery Row.
prestigious universities, and is a popular resort town
renowned for its spectacular setting, world-class
aquarium, historic attractions, and great seafood.
3 \-=
Old Fisherman’s
shows are must-sees, as are Wharf
1 "\-= the playful sea otters (the
Monterey Bay aquarium’s mascot) and inter- ⌂ 1 Old Fisherman’s Wharf
Aquarium active exhibits such as the v MST Trolley ∑ monterey
Splash Zone and touch pool. wharf.com
⌂ 886 Cannery Row This historic wharf in Monterey
v MST Trolley # 10am–
5pm daily ∑ montereybay harbor was an active fishing
aquarium.org 2 \-= pier into the 1970s. Today
This fascinating venue is one Cannery Row
of the world’s best aquariums. ⌂ Cannery Row v MST
It exhibits more than 550 Trolley ∑ canneryrow.com
species and some 35,000 live Did You Know?
specimens. Highlights include This popular waterfront street
the peaceful Kelp Forest and spanning four blocks was The Monterey Jazz
the Open Sea Gallery, full of formerly occupied by sardine Festival is a major
sea creatures including giant canning factories. It was the annual event that
tuna, sharks, green sea turtles, setting for John Steinbeck’s dates back to 1958.
and shoaling sardines. Daily novel, Cannery Row (1945); the
feedings and educational title came from the nickname
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Must See
it’s a lively commercial venue beach, and is a delight for
with a medley of candy and walking, skating or cycling.
souvenir stores, and seafood There are fire pits for chilly
restaurants with wonderful evenings, and picnic benches EAT
views. As you explore, keep at the west end.
an eye out for sea otters The waters are usually calm
drifting on the surface and enough to make for a pleasant Monterey’s
sea lions frolicking in the kayak ride, and to allow waders Fish House
harbor. For close-ups with to spy sand dollars in the A seafood restaurant
the local marine life, Old shallows. Offshore, a large with a casual yet lively
Fisherman’s Wharf offers reef encrusted with clams atmosphere. The huge
glass-bottom boats, whale- tempts divers with its large range of dishes – from
watching tours and deep-sea population of octopi, sponges, ahi tuna to cioppino –
fishing trips. and fish. Spawning halibut use fish and shellfish
can even be seen close to fresh from the bay.
shore in spring. ⌂ 2114 Del Monte Ave
∑ montereyfish
4 "\-= house.com
National Steinbeck
Center 6 '\-= \\\
Monterey State
⌂ 1 Main St, Salinas Historic Park Ghiradelli’s
@ Buses to Salinas Transit This gourmet ice cream
Center # 10am–5pm daily ⌂ 20 Custom House Plaza and chocolate shop also
∑ steinbeck.org v MST Trolley # Times serves classic American
vary, check website drinks such as malts
Monterey and neighboring ∑ parks.ca.gov and shakes. The terrace
Salinas are synonymous overlooking the bay is
with novelist John Steinbeck Monterey’s well preserved the perfect place to
(1902–68), who set many of historic core features many enjoy a sundae.
his stories here. The Nobel notable 19th-century
Prize-winning author’s life, buildings. You can explore the ⌂ 660 Cannery Row
literature, and legacy are area and a few museums on a ∑ ghirardelli.com
the theme of the National self-guided walk, but those \\\
Steinbeck Center, two wishing to get a better look
blocks from his birthplace inside the historic buildings
in downtown Salinas. The should book a tour.
museum brings Steinbeck’s
works to life with movie clips
and dioramas that recreate Monterey Bay 0 meters 500 N
scenes from novels. Aquarium 0 yards 500
An adjoining section DAVID AVE
celebrates the heritage of NEW CANNERY
the local Japanese community Ghiradelli’s
(the first of whom immigrated MONTEREY ROW
in the 1890s). Another section Cannery Row
explores the history of HOFFMAN AVENUE
farming in Salinas Valley. LAINE STREET FOAM STREET
WAVE STREET
5 DRAKE AVENUE Monterey
L I G H T H O U S E A V E N U E
Bay
Del Monte Beach PRIVATE BOLIO ROAD
Presidio of
⌂ 123 Tide Ave @ 12, 20, 67 Monterey Museum MONTEREY BAY COASTAL TRAI L
This gorgeous scimitar STILLWELL AVE
of dune-backed, golden- ART I L LER Y S TREE T Old Fisherman's
white sand curls north from Monterey State Wharf
CLAY STREET
Old Fisherman’s Wharf and Historic Park Museum of
MONROE STREET
WATSON STREET
merges into other beaches Monterey Del Monte National
Beach
that run unbroken for almost WEST FRANKLIN ST Steinbeck Center
19 miles (30 km)
20 miles (32 km). The lovely LARKIN STREET VAN BUREN STREET
Monterey Bay Recreational DEL MONTE A VEUNE
Trail snakes alongside the JEFFERSON STREET P A C I F I C S T R E E T ALVAREDO ST DOWNTOWN Monterey’s Fish House
1 mile (1.5 km)
Old Monterey Jail P EARL STREET
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EXPERIENCE Beyond the Bay










BEYOND THE BAY



41 in 1860 by Reuben Clark and their new homes to resemble
those they had left behind on
Miner F. Butler in grand Greek
Sacramento Revival style, with Corinthian the East Coast. Perched on a
porticos and a tall central rocky promontory high above
k £ @ n 1002 2nd St; www. dome. Along with the chambers the Pacific Ocean, Mendocino
visitsacramento.com
of the state legislature, which has retained the picturesque
Founded by John Sutter in are open to visitors even when charm of its days as a major
1839, California’s capital city they are in session, the Capital fishing and logging center,
has many historic buildings houses a museum of the and has been declared an
along the waterfront in Old state’s history. historical monument. While
Sacramento. Some of the tourism is now its main
structures here were built to California State Railroad industry, the town remains
serve the gold miners of 1849, Museum
but most date from 1860–70, " ⌂ 125 I St # 10am–5pm
when Sacramento sealed its daily ∑ csrmf.org
positon as the link between
rural California and the California State Capitol
commercical centers along ' ⌂ 1315 10th St
the coast. The Pony Express # 7:30am–6pm Mon–Fri,
and transcontintental rail - 9am–5pm Sat & Sun
road both had their western ∑ capitolmuseum.ca.gov
terminus here, with paddle-
wheel riverboats providing
the connection to San 42
Francisco. A handful of
museums trace the area’s Mendocino
historic importance, including @ n 345 N Franklin St, Fort
the California State Railroad Bragg; www.visit
Museum, which houses some mendocino.com
fine old locomotives and
operates excursions on an The settlers of this village
old steam-train from April came to California from New
through September. England in 1852, and built
A short distance from the
old town is the California
State Capitol, Sacramento’s
primary landmark and one Elegant Bixby Bridge,
of the handsomest buildings part of the stunning
in the state. It was designed Pacific Coast Highway
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