(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - San Francisco and the Bay Area

Ghirardelli Square shopping
center, site of the original
famous chocolate factory


6 "
Ripley’s Believe
It Or Not! Museum
 M1 ⌂ 175 Jefferson St
@ 4, 8, 8BX, 30, 39, 47 v E, F
 Powell–Hyde # Sep–mid-
Jun: 10am–9pm daily (to
10pm Fri & Sat); mid-Jun–
Aug: 9am–11pm daily (to
midnight Fri & Sat)
∑ ripleys.com/sanfrancisco
California native Robert L.
Ripley was an illustrator with
a penchant for collecting Among the 350 oddities on on display. Among these is the
peculiar facts and artifacts. display are a cable car built of massive head of the statue
He earned his fame and 275,000 match sticks, a two- that capped City Hall before
fortune by syndicating his headed calf, and an image of the 1906 earthquake (p54).
newspaper cartoon strip, a man who had two pupils in The glowing crown on the
called Ripley’s Believe It Or Not! each eyeball. Get lost in the head is an example of early
Marvelous Mirror Maze and electric illumination.
sample some candy from
the factory. Some of Ripley’s
1,701 famous cartoon strips are on 8
display, too.
Ghirardelli Square
The highest number
of sea lions recorded  L2 ⌂ 900 North Point St
on PIER 39, in 7 @ 4, 18, 19, 24, 27, 28, 30,
November 2009. The Cannery 38, 47, 49 v E, F  Powell–
Hyde ∑ ghirardellisq.com
 M1 ⌂ 2801 Leavenworth
St @ 4, 8, 8BX, 30, 39, 47 Once a chocolate factory and
v E, F  Powell–Hyde woollen mill, this is the most
attractive of San Francisco’s
This 1909 fruit-canning plant refurbished factories, a mix of
was refurbished in the 1960s old red-brick buildings and
to incorporate footbridges, modern shops and restaur-
sunny courtyards, and ramb- ants. The shopping center
ling passages, with restaur- retains the famous Ghirardelli
ants and specialty shops trademark clock tower and
selling clothes, collector dolls, the original electric roof sign.
American Indian arts and The Ghirardelli Chocolate
crafts, and much else. Manufactory on the plaza
The Cannery also used to beneath the tower still houses
house the Museum of the City vintage chocolate-making
of San Francisco, but a fire machinery and sells the
forced the premises to close. confection, although these
However, the collection has days the chocolate bars are
moved to the City Hall (p166), made in San Leandro, across
where all the exhibits are now the Bay.
The square’s centerpiece
and popular gathering point
for shoppers day and evening
The huge crab sculpture is Andrea’s Fountain, decor-
standing in the entrance ated with bronze sculptures of
to PIER 39 mermaids and turtles.
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HIDDEN GEM
Willis Polk
The work of architect
Willis Polk can be seen
at several points while
climbing Vallejo Street.
Look out for the stylish
Williams-Polk House at
EXPERIENCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach 9
1013–1019 Vallejo and
the terraced stairway
near Taylor Street.



Vallejo Street
Stairway
 B3 ⌂ Vallejo St, between
Mason St and Jones St @ 10,
12, 41, 45  Powell–Mason
The steep climb from Little
Italy to the southernmost
summit of Russian Hill reveals
lumber schooner on Hyde
Maritime Museum
some of the city’s best views
Street Pier, part of the
of Telegraph Hill, North Beach,
Maritime Museum
 L2 ⌂ 900 Beach St
and the encom passing bay.
@ 4, 8, 19, 39, 47 v E, F
The street gives way to steps 10 "= The CA Thayer, an 1895
 Powell–Hyde # Times
at Mason Street, which climb vary, check website
up through the quiet and ∑ maritime.org 11 -=
pretty Ina Coolbirth Park. San Francisco
Higher still, above Taylor Constructed in 1939, the Art Institute
Street, there is a warren of Aquatic Park Bathhouse  M2 ⌂ 800 Chestnut St
lanes, with several elegant Building has housed the @ 30, 41, 45, 91  Powell–
Victorian-style wooden Maritime Museum from 1951. Hyde, Powell–Mason
houses (p32). At the crest of Visitors can still admire the # Diego Rivera Gallery:
the hill is one of the rare renovated Streamline 9am–7pm daily; Walter and
pockets of the city that was Moderne building with its McBean Galleries: 11am–
not destroyed in the earth- clean lines, rather like that 6pm Tue–Sat (to 7pm Tue)
quake and fire of 1906. of an ocean liner. ∑ sfai.edu
Moored at nearby Hyde
Street Pier is one of the San Francisco’s Art Institute
world’s largest collections of dates from 1871, one of the
old ships. Among the most oldest in the US, and once
STAY spectacular is the CA Thayer, a occupied the large wooden
three-masted schooner built
mansion built for Mark
in 1895 and retired in 1950. Hopkins’ family on Nob Hill
Argonaut Hotel The Thayer carried lumber (p126), which burned down in
This grand, red-brick along the North California the 1906 fire. Today it is
building has a coast, and was later used in housed in a 1926 Spanish
nautically inspired Alaskan fishing. Colonial-style building, with
interior. The most Also at the pier are the cloisters, bell tower, and
sought-after rooms steam tug, Hercules (1907), courtyard fountain. The Diego
have windows and the side-wheel ferry boat, Rivera Gallery, named after
gazing over the San Eureka, built in 1890 to ferry the Mexican muralist and
Francisco Bay. trains between the Hyde containing one of his murals,
 M1 ⌂ 495 Jefferson St Street Pier and the counties The Making of a Fresco Showing
∑ argonauthotel.com north of San Francisco Bay. the Building of a City, is left of
\\\ It carried 2,300 passengers the main entrance. The Walter
and 120 cars, and was the and McBean Galleries are the
largest passenger ferry of primary exhibition venues
its day. and feature changing shows
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from film screenings and laughing fortune tellers, and 13
contemporary photography more. It was an insiders-only
to design and technology. local spot for many years, and Lombard Street
is still popular with young San  M2 @ 19, 41, 45
Franciscans looking for a  Powell–Hyde
12 unique and fun evening out. Banked at a natural incline of
Located close to PIER 39 and
Musée Mécanique Fisherman’s Wharf, Musée 27°, this hill proved too steep
Mécanique can be part of a for vehicles to climb. In the
 M1 ⌂ Pier 45, at the end
of Taylor St @ 1 v E, F whimsical, memorable day. 1920s the section of Lombard
# 10am–8pm daily General admission is free, but Street close to the summit of
∑ museemecaniquesf.com the cost to play games ranges Russian Hill was revamped,
from a penny (true to their and the severity of its
Kids and adults alike will love name!) up to a dollar. gradient lessened by the
the experience of combing addition of eight curves.
through and playing at this Today it is known as “the
museum of penny-arcade crook edest street in the
games from the early 20th Did You Know? world.” Cars can travel down-
century. The privately owned hill only, while people take the
collection is one of the largest The speed limit down steps or the cable car.
of its kind in the world and the twisted, one-way,
consists of over 300 items, route of Lombard
including automatons, early Street is 5 mph Cars driving
examples of pinball, coin- (8 km/h). down the
operated pianos, antique slot winding ribbon
machines, orchestrions, of Lombard Street














































102-103_EW_San_Francisco.indd 103 30/11/2018 12:06

14 = 15
The Beat Museum Club Fugazi The historic City Lights
Bookstore, a literary
 N3 ⌂ 540 Broadway  N3 ⌂ 678 Green St meeting place since 1953
@ 8, 8AX, 10, 12, 30, 39, 41, § 421-4222 @ 8, 8BX, 30,
45, 91 # 10am–7pm daily 39, 41, 45, 91  Powell–
∑ kerouac.com Mason # Wed–Sun welcome haven when they
first arrive in San Francisco.
This quirky museum displays
The building, designed by
Club Fugazi was originally
EXPERIENCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach books, album covers, and it is the home of the musical altar. The concrete and steel
Charles Fantoni, has an
built in 1912 as a community
memorabilia related to the
Italianesque facade, with a
hall for Italians living in San
artists of the Beat Generation,
Francisco in the wake of the
complex interior notable for
associated with San Francisco
its many columns and ornate
in the 1950s. Photographs,
1906 earthquake. These days
cabaret Beach Blanket Babylon
letters line the walls and
structure of the church, with
its elegant twin spires, was
floors of the building. The
(p14). This lively show, famous
completed in 1924.
for its topical and outrageous
museum hosts events related
Cecil B. DeMille filmed the
songs, has been running
to Beat culture, while the shop
now for over four decades
sells a fascinating range of
workers laying the found-
books, videos, T-shirts, and
ations of Saints Peter and
and has become a San
posters. The property is
Paul, and used the scene to
Francisco institution.
show the building of the
undergoing a major reno-
vation to help protect against
earthquake damage, and may
16
be closed for some months;
HIDDEN GEM
Beat Generation
Saints Peter and Paul
please check online for the
Church
latest information before
you visit.
Beat figure Jack Kerouac
 N2 ⌂ 666 Filbert St
never lived in San
@ 8BX, 8X, 30, 39, 41, Although prominent
45, 91  Powell–Mason Francisco, his life and
# 7:30am–4pm daily (to work are intrinsically
linked to the city. An
1pm public hols) alley to the south of
∑ salesiansspp.org City Lights Bookstore
Known by many as the was named after him
Italian Cathedral, this in 2007, and contains
large church is situated at plaques dedicated to
the heart of North Beach, the Beat Generation.
and many Italians find it a
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EAT

Franciscan Crab
Restaurant
Huge windows frame
impressive views of the
Golden Gate Bridge and
Alcatraz at this seafood
institution, whose crab-
centric menu also
includes fresh oysters
and steamed mussels.
 M1 ⌂ Pier 43 1/2,
Fisherman’s Wharf
∑ franciscan
crabrestaurant.com
\\\
Scoma’s Restaurant
Jutting out onto the bay,
this Italian-owned spot
oozes old-school charm.
A favorite of the Beat poets and still a Ingredients for the
seafood dishes are
relevant and wonderful independent pulled straight from
bookstore for browsing today, City Lights local fishing boats.
Bookstore is an intriguing stop.  M1 ⌂ 1965 Al Scoma
Way ∑ scomas.com
\\\
Temple of Jerusalem in his Lights Bookstore and
film The Ten Commandments. publishing press was Gary Danko
The church is also known founded in 1953 by the
as the Fishermen’s Church poet Lawrence Ferlinghetti A refined chef-owned
(many Italians once earned and sociology professor Peter spot with a seasonal
five-course tasting
their living by fishing), and D. Martin. Soon after opening, menu showcasing
there is a Mass to celebrate Ferlinghetti and Martin were classic French cooking
the Blessing of the Fleet every arrested for disseminating with Californian wine
October. Masses are held in obscene literature – Allen pairings.
Italian, Chinese, and English. Ginsberg’s Howl and Other
Poems (1956). However, after  M2 ⌂ 800 North Point
a lengthy, highly publicised St ∑ garydanko.com
17 court trial the jury ruled \\\
against the charges, and the
City Lights Bookstore event only worked to increase Café de Casa
the spotlight on the Beat poets,
 N3 ⌂ 261 Columbus Great value Brazilian
Ave @ 8, 8AX, 8BX and cement City Lights Book­ breakfasts, crêpes and
# 10am–midnight daily store as a cornerstone of the traditional pastries are
Beat movement.
∑ citylights.com on the menu at this tiny
Browsing the shelves and cafe with a pretty,
A favorite of the Beat exploring the unique titles, plant-filled patio.
poets and still a wonderful it’s easy to feel transported  M2 ⌂ 2701
independent store, City back to the 1960s. The upstairs Leavenworth St
aisles focus on poetry and ∑ cafedecasa.com
offer plenty of cozy nooks
to settle down into with a new \\\
The facade of the Beat title. Be sure also to check out
Museum (inset) and a 1940’s the used books on the more
pontiac exhibited inside expansive lower level.
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Scenes range from the teeming streets of
18 "=
Coit Tower the city’s Financial District (with a robbery
in progress) to factories, dockyards, and
 N2 ⌂ 1 Telegraph Hill Central Valley wheat fields.
Blvd § 249-0995 @ 8,
8BX, 8X, 30, 39, 41, 45, 91
# 10am–6pm daily (winter:
to 5pm) In the lobby of the tower are are effective social comm-
entary and yet also whimsical
murals that are even more
EXPERIENCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach Hitchcock Coit, an eccentric employed during the Great them. Many of the faces in
in spirit. There are various
absorbing. These were
Coit Tower was built in 1933
political themes depicting
at the top of 284-ft- (87-m-)
sponsored in 1934 by a
labor problems and social
high Telegraph Hill, with
government-funded program
funds left to the city by Lillie
designed to keep artists
injustice that run through
Depression. Twenty-five artists
San Franciscan pio neer and
the paintings are those of the
joined efforts to paint a vivid
philanthropist. The 210-ft-
artists and their friends, along
portrait of life in modern
with local figures such as
(63-m-) reinforced concrete
Colonel William Brady, care-
California. Scenes range from
tower was designed as a
the teeming streets of the
fluted column by the architect
taker of Coit Tower. The works’
city’s Financial District (with
Arthur Brown. When floodlit
political content initially
a robbery in progress) to fact-
at night it is an eerie white
caused public controversy.
and can be seen from most
ories, dockyards, and Central
parts of the eastern half of
Valley wheat fields.
the city. The view around the
North Bay
details, including a real light
Bocce Ball Courts
from the
switch cleverly incorporated
observation
into a painting and a poor
 N2 ⌂ Lombard St and
family of migrants encamped
platform
Mason St, Joe DiMaggio
by a river, plus newspaper
(reached by There are many fascinating 19
Playground § 831-5500
elevator) is headlines, magazine covers, @ 8BX, 8X, 30, 39, 41, 45, 91
spectacular. and book titles. The murals
 Powell–Mason # 6am–
10pm daily
Italians have been influential
in North Beach since the main
wave of immigration from
Italy in the late 19th and early
20th centuries. Along with
their food, customs, and
religion, they also brought
games to their new home.
Coit Tower and the lobby’s
fascinating 1930s murals
(inset) depicting everyday
Californian life
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The pretty Filbert Steps
with breathtaking views
of the bay below

Among these was bocce, an
Italian version of lawn bowl-
ing, played on a narrower and
shorter court than the English
version. In North Beach it is
played most afternoons on
the public court in a corner of
the Joe DiMaggio Playground.
There are four participants
(or four teams), who roll a
wooden ball at a smaller,
target ball, at the opposite
end of an earth court. The aim
is for the balls to lightly “kiss”
(bocce), and the highest score
goes to the player whose ball
gets closest to this target.

20
Filbert Steps
 P2 @ 8, 8BX, 39, 82X
v E, F
Telegraph Hill falls away
sharply on its eastern side,
and the streets here become
steep steps. Descending from
Telegraph Hill Boulevard,
Filbert Street is a rambling,
picturesque stairway, made DRINK
of wood, brick, and concrete,
where fuchsia, rhododendron,
bougainvillea, fennel, and Player Sports Irish coffees and Napa
blackberries thrive, and Grill & Arcade Valley wines. The stylish,
offering panoramic views. This lively waterside spot saloon-themed spot has a
combines a sports-bar vibe long, leather-fronted bar,
with an arcade and a fun colorful decor, and
tiki bar serving classic pressed-tin ceiling.
21 beach cocktails. Families  M1 ⌂ 165 Jefferson St
Greenwich Steps and groups of friends ∑ golddustsf.com
gather here for live music
 N2 @ 8, 8BX, 39, 82X and happy hour.
BarNua
 Powell–Mason  N1 ⌂ 2 Beach St A North Beach locals’
Descending roughly parallel ∑ playerssf.com favourite with an upscale
to Filbert Steps, the steps yet unpretentious vibe,
of Greenwich Street have Gold Dust Karaoke happy hour and regular
splendid views, with luxuriant Bar & Lounge live music nights, plus a
foliage from adjoining Lively crowds are drawn decent selection of wines
gardens overflowing onto here by the nightly and craft brews on tap.
them. Going up one set of karaoke, live music and a  N2 ⌂ 561 Colombus Ave
steps and down the other famed menu including ∑ sfbarnua.com
makes a delightful walk
around the eastern side of
Telegraph Hill.
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A SHORT WALK
FISHERMAN’S WHARF




Distance 1 mile (0.6 km) Time 15 minutes Nearest streetcar E, F
World-class dining, shopping, and or outdoor crab stands. See the fishing boats
EXPERIENCE MORE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach
entertainment are the focus of this vibrant along Jefferson Street, watch fishermen at
neighborhood – the center of San Francisco’s work on Fish Alley, then visit the museums
fishing industry. Try the city’s celebrated and browse the many fun stores. The Wharf is
Dungeness crab, served from November to also the launching point for bay cruises. Tickets
June, at one of the many seafood restaurants for Alcatraz can be purchased from Pier 33.

An audio tour gives an idea of
0 meters 100 N the hardships endured by sailors Taylor Street
0 yards 100 in the USS Pampanito (p100) is lined with seafood
World War II submarine. restaurants and
crab stands.
Fisherman’s and
Seaman’s Chapel was Pier 45
built on the pier so that
the devout could pray
before they sailed and
after they returned.


Fish Alley is where the morning’s
catch is landed and prepared.

Previously a fruit cannery,
The Cannery building TAY LO R
was converted to a mall,
housing shops, restaurants,
and a museum. S T R E E T


J E F F E R S O N S T R E E T












San Francisco L E A V E N W O R T H S T R E E T J O N E S S T R E E T
Fire Engine
Tours provides
tours of the city on Historic Trolley
a shiny red Mack Line offers colorful
fire engine. rides on restored,
1930s-vintage
streetcars from US
To Powell–Hyde The Anchorage cities, on the E and
cable car turntable Shopping Center F Muni Lines.
108 START



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Did You Know?
FISHERMAN’S WHARF
The original fishing AND NORTH BEACH
sailboats were lateen- Sea lions dozing and
rigged and modeled on enjoying the sun on
Genoese craft. PIER 39’s boat docks
are a delight to
behold. The colony Locator Map
usually arrives For more detail see p92
around January.
Blue and Gold Fleet
and bay cruise tickets
Boudin Sourdough Bakery
produces the tangy bread for
which San Francisco is famous. Bus stop
You can buy it fresh here then (No. 39, E, F)
tour the museum.

Red and White
Fleet tickets








E M B A R C A D E R O FINISH



TAY LO R


S T R E E T
J E F F E R S O N S T R E E T M A S O N S T R E E T P O W E L L S T R E E T PIER 39 (p100) – a collection
of restaurants, shops, and
amusements set against a
backdrop of spectacular bay
views – is a popular attraction.



About 300 life-size wax figures of past
and present-day personalities greet
visitors to Madame Tussaud’s (p100).

Ripley’s Believe It Or Not!
Museum (p101) is a selection
of the famed cartoonist’s
strange collection of
curiosities and odd facts.

Sea lions and tourist
boat at PIER 39





108-109_EW_San_Francisco.indd 109 30/11/2018 16:40

A SHORT WALK
TELEGRAPH HILL



Distance 0.5 mile (0.8 km) Nearest bus 39
Time 15 minutes
EXPERIENCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach eastern side, where it was dynamited to
Telegraph Hill was named for the
semaphore installed on its crest in 1850
to alert merchants of the arrival of ships.
Today’s hill falls away abruptly on its
provide rocks for landfill and paving. There
are steep paths on this side of the hill,
bordered by gardens. The western side
slopes more gradually into “Little Italy,”
the area around Washington Square. In the
1920s the hill was home to immigrants and
to bohemian artists who appreciated the
panoramic views. These days the quaint
pastel clapboard homes are much sought
after and this is one of the city’s prime
residential areas. Stroll through its quiet
streets, finishing at the Art Deco Coit
Tower, which houses interesting fresco
murals in the American Social Realism
style and a panoramic viewing platform Beautiful interior of Saints Peter
at its summit. and Paul Church



The Neo-Gothic Saints Peter
and Paul Church (p104) was
consecrated in 1924 and has
an ornate interior with a fine Bus stop (No. 39) F I L B E R T S T R E E T
image of Christ in the apse.
U N I O N S T R E E T



START G R A N T AV E N U E







Washington Square,
a small park at the heart of S T O C K T O N S T R E E T
Little Italy, is dominated by
Saints Peter and Paul
Church, known as the
“Italian Cathedral.”
The Statue of Benjamin Franklin stands
above a time capsule planted in 1979,
containing Levi’s, a poem, and a recording
of the Hoodoo Rhythm Devils. 0 meters 60 N
0 yards 60
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The Christopher Columbus FISHERMAN’S WHARF
AND NORTH BEACH
Statue was erected in 1957.
The frescoes inside Coit
Tower (p106) were
painted by local artists in
1933, as part of the Locator Map
Federal Art Project set up For more detail see p92
by President Roosevelt.
The formally landscaped
Greenwich Steps (p107)
Bus stop (No. 39) contrast with the charmingly
rustic Filbert Steps. The small Napier
Lane is lined with
19th-century cottages.
It is the last of San
FINISH Francisco’s wooden
plank streets and a
tranquil retreat from
the city.
The ascent
through flower
gardens up the
Filbert Steps
gives fine views
over the harbor to
the East Bay.


M O N T G O M E R Y S T R E E T
F I L B E R T S T R E E T K E A R N E Y S T R E E T



U N I O N S T R E E T G R E E N S T R E E T No. 1360 Montgomery
Street is decorated with
an Art Deco figure of a
modern Atlas.



G R A N T AV E N U E











The top of Coit Tower,
rising above houses on
Telegraph Hill





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A SHORT WALK
RUSSIAN HILL

FISHERMAN’S WHARF
AND NORTH BEACH
Distance 1.5 miles (2.4km) Walking time 35
minutes Nearest public transportation Locator Map
Powell–Hyde cable car to Hyde St & Vallejo St;
EXPERIENCE Fisherman’s Wharf and North Beach a lovely hilltop warren of parks and rare F I L B E R T S T R E E T 200 200 N 200 N JONES STREET JONES STREET TAYLOR STREET UNION STREET MASON STREET MASON STREET POWELL STR
bus 10 or 12 to Pacific Ave & Jones St
For more detail see p92
The rewards for scrambling up the steep
stairways and leafy alleys of Russian Hill are
examples of architecture that survived the
1906 earthquake. Here you will encounter few
0 meters 0 meters
cars and fewer people as you wander among
0 yards 0 yards
200
carefully preserved buildings, and enjoy the
FILBERT STREET
FILBERT STREET
dazzling views and luxuriant hillside gardens
that are the pride of the neighborhood. At
the end of your walk, descend to indulge in
F I L B E R T S T R E E T
European-style cafés and boutiques at the
UNION STREET
foot of the hill.
TAYLOR STREET
ALLEN ST
ALLEN ST
U N I O N S T R E E T
MACONDRAY LANE
GREEN STREET
WARNER
PL
PL
LEAVENWORTH STREET
The block between Hyde and
G R E E N S T R E E T
CoolbrithCoolbrith
Leavenworth streets is also U N I O N S T R E E T WARNER LEAVENWORTH STREET G R E E N S T R E E T MACONDRAY LANE GREEN STREET Park VALLE JO STREE T
VALLE JO STREE T
called “the Paris Block,” HILL PLACE RUSSIAN HILL PLACE RUSSIAN Park
GREEN STREET
and is lined with a number of GREEN STREET L A R K I N STR EET L A R K I N STR EET VALLEJO ST VALLEJO ST
buildings on the National STAIRWAY STAIRWAY
Register of Historic Places.
VALLE JO STREE T
VALLE JO STREE T STREET FLORENCE STREET FLORENCE BROADWAY BROADWAY
GLOVER STREET
GLOVER STREET
VALLEJO STREET
VALLEJO STREET
TUNNEL BROADWAY
Continue to Hyde Street B ROA DWAY B ROA DWAY BROADWAY
where cafés and boutiques TUNNEL POWELL ST POWELL ST
cluster between Jackson and H Y D E S T R E E T H Y D E S T R E E T BERNARD ST BERNARD ST AVENUE AVENUE
Union streets. The charming B ROADWAY B ROADWAY PACIFIC TAYLOR STREET TAYLOR STREET
PACIFIC
Cocotte at No. 1521 is a great MORRELL ST LYNCH STREET LYNCH STREET JONES STREET JONES STREET
place to end the walk. LARKIN
JACKSON STREET
JACKSON STREET
PACIFIC AVENUE LARKIN STREET
PACIFIC AVENUE
MORRELL ST STREET
JACKSON STREET
JACKSON STREET FINISH LEAVENWORTH STREET LEAVENWORTH STREET
P O L K S T R E E T
P O L K S T R E E T
WASHINGTON STREET
WASHINGTON STREET
C L A Y S T R E E T
C L A Y S T R E E T
A cable car
heading up the
Hyde Street hill
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Gothic Pro, Soho Pro

Proceed north on Taylor
Street to Macondray
Lane, which is accessed
by a creaky stairway
winding through dense
vegetation. Along the
two-block walkway are
shingled Edwardian-
inspired cottages.
0 meters 0 meters 200 N 200 N
0 yards 0 yards 200 200
A view of downtown from the
FILBERT STREET secluded Ina Coolbrith Park
FILBERT STREET
F I L B E R T S T R E E T
F I L B E R T S T R E E T TAYLOR STREET UNION STREET MASON STREET MASON STREET POWELL STREET POWELL STREET At the bottom of the
UNION STREET
Vallejo Street Stairway,
stroll across the street to
enjoy the views from the
JONES STREET
TAYLOR STREET
ALLEN ST ALLEN ST tiny Ina Coolbrith Park.
JONES STREET
U N I O N S T R E E T
U N I O N S T R E E T MACONDRAY LANE GREEN STREET
MACONDRAY LANE
WARNER WARNER GREEN STREET
PL PL
LEAVENWORTH STREET
LEAVENWORTH STREET
G R E E N S T R E E T
G R E E N S T R E E T Ina Ina VALLE JO STRE ET
VALLE JO STRE ET
CoolbrithCoolbrith
Park Park Architect Willis Polk created
HILL PLACE START
GREEN STREET
GREEN STREET L A R K I N ST REE T L A R K I N ST REE T VALLEJO ST VALLEJO ST the zigzagging, Beaux
RUSSIAN
RUSSIAN
HILL PLACE
STAIRWAY
STAIRWAY
Arts-style Vallejo Street
VALLE JO STREET
VALLE JO STREET STREET FLORENCE STREET FLORENCE BROADWAY BROADWAY Stairway (p102). All along the
GLOVER STREET extensive, three-part stairway
GLOVER STREET
VALLEJO STREET
VALLEJO STREET are gardens overflowing with
flowers and trees.
TUNNEL BROADWAY
B ROADWAY B ROADWAY BROADWAY TUNNEL POWELL ST POWELL ST
BERNARD ST BERNARD ST AVENUE AVENUE On Vallejo Street, the gems of
B ROA DWAY BROADWAY PACIFIC TAYLOR STREET TAYLOR STREET Russian Hill are two steep-
PACIFIC
LYNCH STREET LYNCH STREET JONES STREET JONES STREET roofed, gabled houses in the
JACKSON STREET
JACKSON STREET Bay Area Tradition-style at
H Y D E S T R E E T
H Y D E S T R E E T
MORRELL ST
LARKIN
Nos. 1013–19.
PACIFIC AVENUE LARKIN STREET
PACIFIC AVENUE
MORRELL ST STREET
JACKSON STREET Turn right into short
JACKSON STREET
P O L K S T R E E T
P O L K S T R E E T
Florence Street and, at
the end, look across the
rooftops to Nob Hill
WASHINGTON STREET
WASHINGTON STREET (p130), sprinkled with
19th-century mansions.
LEAVENWORTH STREET
LEAVENWORTH STREET
C L A Y S T R E E T
C L A Y S T R E E T Take the stairs and walk
into the short alleyway of
Russian Hill Place to see
Mission-Revival style
architecture.
Vallejo Street Stairway
leading to a row of
pastel-colored houses
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Chinese-inspired architecture and street decor ion Grant Avenue








































CHINATOWN

AND NOB HILL



The Chinese settled in the plaza on Stockton Street
in the 1850s, and today the shops and markets
recall the atmosphere of a typical southern
Chinese town – although the architecture,
customs, and public events are distinctly
American variations on a Cantonese theme.
Nob Hill is San Francisco’s most celebrated
hilltop. It is famous for its cable cars, plush hotels,
and breathtaking views. In the late 19th century,
the “Big Four,”(p53) who built the first
transcontinental railway, were among its richest
tenants, in their large mansions on the hill. The
earthquake and fire of 1906 leveled all but one
of these, but the area’s contemporary hotels still
recall the opulence of Victorian times.
115



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CHINATOWN AND NOB HILL T A Y L O R T A Y L O R 0 meters 0 meters 300 N 300 N
Must Sees 10 Pacific Heritage Museum 0 yards 0 yards 300 300 TELEGRAPHTELEGRAPH
1 Cable Car Museum 11 InterContinental Mark HILL HILL
2 Stockton Street and Grant Hopkins Hotel P O W E L L P O W E L L
Avenue 12 Fairmont Hotel STREET STREET CHINATOWNCHINATOWN
13 The Pacific-Union Club AND NOB HILLAND NOB HILL
Experience More S T R E E T S T R E E T GREENWICH GREENWICH G R A N T G R A N T K E A R N Y K E A R N Y
3 Chinatown Gateway Eat J O N E S J O N E S S T R E E T S T R E E T
4 Old St. Mary’s Cathedral 1 Sam Wo
5 Tin How Temple 2 Good Mong Kok Bakery
6 Golden Gate Fortune Cookie 3 Mister Jiu’s COLUMBUS COLUMBUS STREET STREET
Company UNION UNION
7 Grace Cathedral Shop M O N T G O M E R Y M O N T G O M E R Y
8 Portsmouth Square 4 Chinatown Kite Shop A V E N U E UE A V E N U E S T R E E T S T R E E T S A N S O M E S T R E E T S T R E E T
9 Chinese Historical Society of S T R E E T S T R E E T AVENUE AVEN V A L L E J O V A L L E J O
America FISHERMAN’S WHARFFISHERMAN’S WHARF
S A N S O M E
AND NORTH BEACHAND NORTH BEACH NORTHNORTH B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y
RUSSIANRUSSIAN p90 p90 BEACHBEACH
HILL HILL S T R E E T S T R E E B A T T E R Y T B A T T E R Y
B R O A D W A Y
S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T B R O A D W A Y C O L U M B U S S T R E E T S T R E E T
G R E E N G R E E N V A L L E J O V A L L E J O P OWEL L ST WE CORDELIA L L S T O C K T O N ST CORDELIA S T O C K T O N
P O
C O L U M B U S
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y TUNNEL TUNNEL ST ST SALMON WAYNE PL WAYNE PL A V E N U E A V E N U E
S T
BROADWAY BROADWAY B E R N A R D S T T A Y L O R SALMON Y L O R P A C I F I C P A C I F I C ST TRENTON S T REET ST TRENTON S T R E E T S T R E E T A V E N U E S T R E E T S T R E E T
T A
B E R N A R D
A V E N U E
J A C K S O N
Transamerica
S T
PyramidPyramid
L Y N C H S T L Y N C H A V E N U E A V E N U E ST AUBURN ST AUBURN S T R E E T J A C K S O N Golden Gate FortuneGolden Gate Fortune Transamerica MARITIME MARITIME
S T REET
Cookie CompanyCookie Company
PLAZA
PLAZA
ST
ST
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y V A V A P P L A R K I N P A C I F I C P A C I F I C L E A V E N W O R T H L E A V E N W O R T H J O N E S S T R E E T S T R E E T WA S H I N G T O N S T R E E T S T R E E T Chinese Chinese
Cultural Center
S T R E E T
Cultural Center
MORRELL
MORRELL
WA S H I N G T O N
J O N E S
Embarcadero
Portsmouth
L A R K I N
O
O
J A C K S O N J A C K S O N Cable CarCable Car M A S O N Stockton Stockton Tin HowTin How Portsmouth Embarcadero
Center Center
Square Square
L
L
MuseumMuseum
M A S O N
K
N
N
K
Street Street Temple Temple Pacific Pacific
S T R E E T S T R E E T HeritageHeritage



STREET COMMERCIAL
WETMORE CODMAN WETMORE CHINATOWNCHINATOWN COMMERCIAL MuseumMuseum
W A S H I N G T O N
W A S H I N G T O N S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Grant Grant STREET
N
N
CODMAN
Avenue Avenue
Kong ChowKong Chow
E
E
S T R E E T S T R E E T S S S REED PRIEST REED PRIEST S T R E E T C L A Y ST PL C L A Y ST Chinese Chinese STREET STREET
Temple Temple
PL
SACRAMENTO
S
ST S ST S T R E E T S T R E E T Historical Historical SACRAMENTO
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S T R E E T ST
Old St. Mary’s
House House A V A V S S H Y S T R E E T S T R E E T PLEASANT ST PLEASANT ST The Pacific-The Pacific- America America Old St. Mary’s Merchant'sMerchant's
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Cathedral Cathedral
S T R E E T
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S T R E E T
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C L A Y S T R E E T S T R E E T D E D E Grace Grace Union ClubUnion Club Hotel C A L I F O R N I A S T R E E T ExchangeExchange
T
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E
E
R
R
Hun'ton
N
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N
SQUARE
G R
SQUARE
Park
Park
U
AND THE MARINAAND THE MARINA E TUNNEL STOCKTON TUNNEL STOCKTON M O N T G O M E R Y M O N T G O M E R Y Pacific CoastPacific Coast
E
K E A R N Y
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Park Park InterContinentalInterContinental PINE ChinatownChinatown
S T R E E T S T R E E T NOB NOB T A Y L O R Mark HopkinsMark Hopkins PINE L L GatewayGateway
P O W E L L
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Notre Dame
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T A Y L O R
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S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T R E R E
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C A L I F O R N I A V A V A P I N E P I N E S S S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T S T
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L E A V E N W O R T H
F NORRIS ST F NORRIS ST T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T
P
P
N
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T
R R S U T T E R S U T T E R MontgomeryMontgomery
O
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L K L K E E S T R E E T S T R E E T STOCKTON STOCKTON S T R E E T S T R E E T St StationSt Station

B U S H B U S H E T E T S T R E E T S T R E E T

N
N
E
E
F E R N
S T R E E T F R A N K L I N S T R E E T F R A N K L I N S T R E E T S S S F E R N S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T DOWNTOWNDOWNTOWN P O S T P O S T SheratonSheraton
S T R E E T
UNION
UNION
S
B U S H B U S H S U T T E R S U T T E R AND SOMAAND SOMA SQUARE SQUARE E T E T Palace HotelPalace Hotel

S T R E E T
S T R E E T
p152
p152

S T
H E M L O C K S T S T R E E T S T R E E T K K
S
H E M L O C K S T G E A R Y G E A R Y R R
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T
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P O S T E E STREET STREET M M
E
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DISTRICT
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DISTRICT
Modern Art
P O S T P O S T G E A R Y G E A R Y H Y D E H Y D E Modern Art
B O U L E V A R D J O N E S J O N E S Powell St CablePowell St Cable
B O U L E V A R D
G E A R Y G E A R Y Great American S T R E E T E L L I S S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Car Turntable Car Turntable Yerba Buena
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4 T H
Cathedral of Saint MaryCathedral of Saint Mary E L L I S S T R E E T Station Station Convention
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of the Assumption of the Assumption S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Center Center
E D D Y E D D Y S T R E E T S T R E E T
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0 meters 0 meters 300 N 300 N
0 yards 0 yards 300 300
T A Y L O R
T A Y L O R
TELEGRAPHTELEGRAPH
HILL HILL
STREET STREET CHINATOWNCHINATOWN
P O W E L L
P O W E L L
AND NOB HILLAND NOB HILL
GREENWICH G R A N T G R A N T K E A R N Y K E A R N Y
GREENWICH
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
J O N E S
J O N E S
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
STREET STREET
UNION UNION
COLUMBUS
COLUMBUS
S T R E E T S T R E E T
V A L L E J O V A L L E J O S A N S O M E S A N S O M E
S T R E E T
M O N T G O M E R Y
S T R E E T
M O N T G O M E R Y
AVEN
FISHERMAN’S WHARFFISHERMAN’S WHARF
AVENUE
A V E N U E UE
A V E N U E
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
AND NORTH BEACHAND NORTH BEACH NORTHNORTH B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y
RUSSIANRUSSIAN p90 p90 BEACHBEACH
HILL HILL S T R E E T S T R E E B A T T E R Y T B A T T E R Y
B R O A D W A Y
S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T B R O A D W A Y C O L U M B U S S T R E E T S T R E E T
G R E E N G R E E N V A L L E J O V A L L E J O P OWEL L ST WE CORDELIA L L S T O C K T O N ST CORDELIA S T O C K T O N
P O
C O L U M B U S
B R O A D W A Y TUNNEL TUNNEL ST ST SALMON WAYNE PL WAYNE PL A V E N U E A V E N U E
B R O A D W A Y
BROADWAY BROADWAY B E R N A R D S T T A Y L O R SALMON Y L O R P A C I F I C P A C I F I C ST TRENTON S T REET ST TRENTON S T R E E T S T R E E T A V E N U E S T R E E T S T R E E T
S T
T A
B E R N A R D
A V E N U E
J A C K S O N
Transamerica
S T
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L Y N C H S T L Y N C H A V E N U E A V E N U E ST AUBURN ST AUBURN S T R E E T J A C K S O N Golden Gate FortuneGolden Gate Fortune Transamerica MARITIME MARITIME
S T REET
Cookie CompanyCookie Company
PLAZA
PLAZA
ST
ST
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y V A V A P P L A R K I N P A C I F I C P A C I F I C L E A V E N W O R T H L E A V E N W O R T H J O N E S J O N E S S T R E E T WA S H I N G T O N S T R E E T S T R E E T Chinese Chinese
S T R E E T
MORRELL
MORRELL
S T R E E T
Cultural Center
Cultural Center
WA S H I N G T O N
Embarcadero
L A R K I N
Portsmouth
O
O
J A C K S O N J A C K S O N Cable CarCable Car M A S O N Stockton Stockton Tin HowTin How Portsmouth Embarcadero
Center Center
Square Square
L
L
MuseumMuseum
M A S O N
N
N
K
K
Street Street Temple Temple Pacific Pacific
S T R E E T S T R E E T HeritageHeritage


STREET COMMERCIAL

WETMORE CODMAN WETMORE CHINATOWNCHINATOWN COMMERCIAL MuseumMuseum
W A S H I N G T O N
W A S H I N G T O N S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Grant Grant STREET
N
N
CODMAN
Avenue Avenue
E
Kong ChowKong Chow
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S T R E E T S T R E E T S S S REED PRIEST S T R E E T ST PRIEST S T R E E T C L A Y ST PL C L A Y ST Chinese Chinese STREET STREET
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PL
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House House A V S S H Y S T R E E T S T R E E T PLEASANT ST PLEASANT ST America America Old St. Mary’s Merchant'sMerchant's
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H
The Pacific-The Pacific-
S T R E E T
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S T R E E T
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B U S H B U S H E T E T S T R E E T S T R E E T

N
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S T R E E T
S T R E E T
p152
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S T
H E M L O C K S T S T R E E T S T R E E T K K
S
H E M L O C K S T G E A R Y G E A R Y R R
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Modern Art
P O S T P O S T G E A R Y G E A R Y H Y D E H Y D E Modern Art
B O U L E V A R D J O N E S J O N E S Powell St CablePowell St Cable
B O U L E V A R D
G E A R Y G E A R Y Great American S T R E E T E L L I S S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Car Turntable Car Turntable Yerba Buena
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E D D Y E D D Y S T R E E T S T R E E T
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1 =
CABLE CAR


MUSEUM


EXPERIENCE Chinatown and Nob Hill Get up close to the inner workings of the city’s famous cable-
 B3 ⌂ 1201 Mason St @ 1, 10, 12  Powell–Mason, Powell–Hyde
# 10am–6pm daily (Nov–Mar: to 5pm) ∑ cablecarmuseum.org
car system. Here you’re right in the middle of the action, feeling
the vibrations and hearing the whirring mechanics of public
transportation at work.
This is both a museum and the powerhouse
of today’s cable-car system (p120).
Anchored to the ground floor are the
engines and wheels that wind the cables
through the system of channels and
pulleys beneath the streets. Observe
them from the mezzanine, then walk
downstairs to see under the street. The
museum houses an early cable car and
examples of the mechanisms that control
the individual cars. The system is the last
of its kind in the world, so after you’re
done getting a close-up look in the car
barn don’t miss a chance to hop on either
the Powell-Mason or Powell-Hyde line
right outside and experience a journey
on one of these historic cars. (Check
the website for line closures, as a few
improvements are being carried out in 2019.)

An old cable car stoplight on
display at the museum














Timeline 1869 1873 1906 1947
▲ The San Francisco
▲ Construction begins
▲ The mayor attempts
▲ InventorAndrew
to have the remaining
earthquake destroys
on San Francisco’s first
Hallidie allegedly finds
inspiration for the cable cable-car line in May, most of the system’s lines closed, but a
car system in wanting with regular service cars and lines, and committee led by Friedel
to put a stop to the use starting in September electric streetcars Klussmann succeeds in
of horse-drawn trams replace most of the preserving the city’s
old cable-car lines when cable-car system
the city is rebuilt
118
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Must See








































The Cable Car Museum,
also housing the city’s
cable-car system



REBUILDING THE CABLE CARS
San Francisco’s cable-car system was introduced
in 1873, and remained in use even with the
advent of more modern public transportation
over the years. Despite regular maintenance, the
aging system began to deterioriate to the point
where drastic measures had to be taken, but as a
beloved and iconic feature of the city there was
no chance of simply closing the lines. Instead the
city initiated the Cable Car System Rehabilitation
Program, an immense and thorough upgrade that
involved closing the whole cable-car system from
1982–4. The work involved replacing old tracks
across 69 city blocks, tidying up the cars, and
carrying out important upgrades at 1201 Mason
St – both on the structure of the car barn as well
as the mechanisms of the powerhouse. In June
1984 the system reopened and San Franciscans
celebrated its return with four days of festivites.


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SAN FRANCISCO’S CABLE CARS
In their heyday, cable cars ran on 23 lines throughout the city. While San
Franciscans mostly use other public transport on their commute these
days, the cable cars are still a beloved and iconic feature of the city.

The cable car system was launched
EXPERIENCE Chinatown and Nob Hill the problem of transporting people
in 1873, with its inventor Andrew
Hallidie riding in the first car. He
was purportedly inspired to tackle
up the city’s steep slopes after
seeing a horrible accident: a horse-
drawn tram slipped down a hill,
dragging the horses with it. His
system was a great success, and
by 1889 cars were running on
eight lines. With the advent of the
internal combustion engine, cable
cars became almost obsolete, and
in 1947 attempts were made to
replace them with buses. However,
after a public outcry – led by Friedel
Klussmann’s “Citizens’ Committee
to Save the Cable Cars“ – the
present three lines, using 17 miles
(25 km) of track, were retained.


Two of the 12 California Street cable cars
passing by on the streets of San Francisco
Did You Know?
A cable-car bell-ringing Bell
contest is held in Union
Square every July.




Cross-section illustration
of a Powell Street car and
cable-car tracks

Grip handle

Sandbox


Emergency brake





Center plate and jaws Wheel brake
grip the cable


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HOW CABLE CARS WORK
Engines in the central powerhouse Grip handle FRONT VIEW
wind a looped cable under the city Destination Brake lever
streets, guided by a system of board Side
grooved pulleys. When the seating
gripman in the cable car applies
the grip handle, the grip reaches
through a slot in the street and
grabs the cable. This pulls the car
along at a steady speed of 9.5 mph
(15.5 km/h). To stop, the gripman
releases the grip and applies the
brake. Great skill is needed at
corners where the cable passes
over a pulley. The gripman must
release the grip to allow the car
to coast over the pulley.
PRESERVING HISTORY
Maintenance and renovations
on the cable cars are done with
attention to historical detail,
because they are designated Cable-
historic monuments. A cable car Wooden car floor
celebration was held in 1984 after a beams
two-year renovation of the system. Paving
stones
Each car was restored, and all lines Yoke
were replaced with reinforced
tracks. The system should now BACK VIEW Grip crotch
work safely for 100 years.




























Brake block Brake shoe
Cable


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1 \-=
STOCKTON


STREET AND

GRANT AVENUE
EXPERIENCE Chinatown and Nob Hill  C4 @ 10, 12, 30, 45  California St ∑ sanfranciscochinatown.com



Tucked between Grant Avenue and Stockton Street, Chinatown
exerts an irresistible pull, drawing eager visitors in with the
promise of busy shops, delicious food, and colorful architecture.
throughout the alleys, small restaurants,
Contained within a busy neighborhood, the
Chinatown Alleys are situated between Grant
both above and below street level, serve
Avenue and Stockton Street. These four
narrow lanes intersect Washington Street
The Story of Grant Avenue
within half a block of each other. Of these,
the largest is Waverly Place, known as the cheap, delicious, home-cooked food.
Grant Avenue is also distinguished for being
“Street of Painted Balconies,” for reasons the first street of Yerba Buena, the village that
that are apparent to every passerby. The preceded San Francisco. A plaque at No. 823
alleys contain many old buildings, as well Grant Avenue marks the block where William
as traditional shops such as old-fashioned A. Richardson and his wife, Maria Antonia
herbalists displaying elk antlers, sea horses, Martinez, erected Yerba Buena’s first edifice, a
snake wine, and other exotic wares. All canvas tent, on June 25, 1835. By October, they
EAT


In Chinatown you can
find family-run bakeries
as well as upscale spots
serving Chinese classics
with Californian flair.
Sam Wo
 U2 ⌂ 713 Clay St
¢ Tue ∑ samwo
restaurant.com
\\\
Good Mong Kok
Bakery
 T1 ⌂ 1039 Stockton
St ∑ goodmongkok.com
\\\
Mister Jiu’s
 U2 ⌂ 28 Waverly Pl
¢ Sun & Mon
∑ misterjius.com
\\\ Chinese street lamps
and lanterns in San
Francisco’s Chinatown
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Must See

A CHINESE DEITY
Kuan Di is the deity most often found
in shrines in Cantonese cities, and his
distinctive face looks down from Taoist
shrines in many Chinatown restaurants.
He is typically depicted with a large
sword in one hand and a book in the
other – symbols of his dedication to
both the martial and the literary arts.
To get a good look at Kuan Di, head to
the top floor above the post office on
Stockton Street, where the Kong Chow
Temple looks out over Chinatown and
the Financial District. Although the
building dates from 1977, the temple
altar and statuary are possibly the
The Ping Yuen mural, painted on Stockton oldest Chinese religious shrine in North
Street by Darryl Mar in 1999 America, and are presided over by a
carved wooden statue of Kuan Di
dating from the 19th century.
had replaced this with a wooden house, and
the following year with a yet more perma nent
adobe (sun-dried brick) home, called Casa
Grande. The street in which the Richardsons’
house stood was named Calle de la Fundación, Ingredients
the “Street of the Founding.” It was renamed on sale in a
Grant Avenue in 1885 in memory of Ulysses China town
S. Grant, the US president and Civil War food
general who died that year. market





































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EXPERIENCE MORE



3 in Chinatown. Here you can 5
buy antiques, silks, and gems,
Chinatown Gateway but sometimes at high prices, Tin How Temple
aimed at tourists.
 U2 ⌂ Grant Ave at Bush 4 =  U1 ⌂ Top floor, 125
EXPERIENCE Chinatown and Nob Hill Chinese-American artchitect Old St. Mary’s Hyde, Powell–Mason
St @ 8, 30, 45
Waverly Pl § 986-2520
@ 1, 8, 8AX, 8BX, 30, 45
This ornate portal, opened
 California St, Powell–
in 1970 and designed by
# 9:30am–3:30pm daily
Cathedral
Clayton Lee, spans the
entrance to Chinatown’s
This unusual temple, the
 U2 ⌂ 660 California St
longest-operating Chinese
main tourist street, Grant
@ 1, 15, 30  California St,
Avenue. Inspired by the
temple in the United States,
Powell–Hyde, Powell–
is dedicated to Tin How (Tien
ceremonial entrances of
Mason ∑ oldsaint
traditional Chinese villages,
Hau), Queen of Heaven and
marys.org
the three-arched gateway is
protector of seafarers and
capped with green roof tiles
by the Cantonese clan associ-
cathedral, Old St. Mary’s
and a host of propitia tory
ation in 1852, it is situated
animals – including two
served a largely Irish
dragons and two carp chasing San Francisco’s first Catholic visitors. Originally founded
at the top of three steep,
congregation from 1854 to
a large, round pearl – all of 1891, when a new St. Mary’s wooden flights of stairs. The
glazed ceramic. Village gate- Church was built on Van temple's narrow space is
ways are often commissioned Ness Avenue. Owing to the smoky with incense and
by wealthy clans to enhance shortage of suitable building burned paper offerings, and
their status, and the names materials in California, the hung with hundreds of gold
of these benefactors are bricks for the old church and red lanterns. Gifts of fruit
inscribed on the gates. This were imported from the lie on the carved altar in front
structure was erected by a East Coast, while the granite of the wooden statue of Tin
peculiarly American instit- foundation stones came from How. Entry is free, though
ution, the Chinatown Cultural China. The clock tower bears a donation is expected.
Development Committee. the inscription, “Son, observe
It is guarded by two stone the time and fly from evil,”
lions that are suckling their said to have been directed 6
cubs through their claws, in at the brothels that stood
accordance with ancient lore. across the street at the time Golden Gate Fortune
Once through the gate, you it was built. Twice dam aged Cookie Company
find yourself among some by fire, the church has its  U1 ⌂ 56 Ross Alley
of the most elegant shops original foundations and walls.
§ 781-3956 @ 1, 8, 8AX,
8BX, 30, 45  California St,
Powell–Hyde, Powell–
Mason # 8am–6pm daily
The Golden Gate Fortune
Cookie Company has been
in business since 1962. The
cookie-making machine
nearly fills the tiny bakery,
where dough is poured onto
griddles and baked on a con-
veyor belt. An attendant
inserts the “fortunes” (slips
of paper bearing mostly
positive predictions) before
the cookies are folded.
Ironically, despite its
association with Chinese
culture, the fortune cookie
Chinatown Gateway, at the entrance to is unknown in China. It was
Chinatown's main street, Grant Avenue actually invented in 1909 in
124
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Pro, Soho Pro, ITC Caslon 224

San Francisco’s Japanese Tea The labyrinth inside
Garden (p198), by then chief Grace Cathedral and its
gardener, Makota Hagiwara. imposing exterior (inset)

8
of trad itional elements such
7 '= as a rose window, which was Portsmouth Square
Grace Cathedral made in Chartres in 1964.
The interior is replete with  U1 @ 1, 8, 8AX, 8BX,
 S2 ⌂ 1100 California St marble and stained glass. Its 30, 45
@ 1, 27  California St
# 8am–6pm daily (to 7pm leaded-glass windows were San Francisco’s original town
Sun) ∑ gracecathedral.org designed by Charles Connick, square was laid out in 1839.
inspired by the blue glass of Also known as the Portsmouth
Grace Cathedral is the mother Chartres. The rose window, Plaza, it was once the social
church of the Episcopal made with 1-inch- (2.5-cm-) center for the small village
Diocese of California and thick faceted glass, is illum- of Yerba Buena. On July 9,
the third-largest Episcopal inated from inside at night. 1846, less than a month after
cathedral in the US. Designed Other windows, by Henry rebels declared California’s
by Lewis P. Hobart, it stands Willet and Gabriel Loire, independence from Mexico,
on the site of the two Charles include depictions of modern a party of marines rowed
and William H. Crocker heroes such as Albert Einstein. ashore. They raised the
mansions. Although building Objects in the cathedral American flag above the
started in September 1928, include a 13th-century square, seizing the port as part
the cathedral was not comp- Catalonian crucifix and a 16th- of the United States. For a
leted until 1964, and the century silk and gold Brussels while the square was the hub
interior vaulting remains tapestry. The doors of the of an increasingly dynamic city,
unfinished to this day. Notre main entrance are cast from but in the 1860s the business
Dame in Paris was one of the molds of Ghiberti’s “Gates district shifted southeast and
inspirations for the building, of Paradise,” made for the the plaza gradually declined in
which incorporates a number Baptistry in Florence, Italy. civic importance.
Portsmouth Square today
is very much the social center
The temple's narrow space is smoky with of Chinatown. In the morning,
incense and burned paper offerings, and people practice t’ai chi, and
others gather to play checkers
hung with hundreds of gold and red lanterns. and cards throughout the day.
125



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You can look into the old coin
vaults through a cutaway
section on the ground floor,
or descend in the elevator
for closer inspec tion. In 1984,
architects Skidmore, Owings,
and Merrill designed the
17-story headquarters of
the Bank of Canton (now East
EXPERIENCE Chinatown and Nob Hill 9 "= An exhibition at the and basement.
West Bank) above the existing
building, incorporating the
original street-level facade


11
InterContinental Mark
Hopkins Hotel
Chinese Historical
Chinese Historical
Society of America
@ 1  California St, Powell–
Society of America
Mason, Powell–Hyde
 T2 ⌂ 965 Clay St § 391-
∑ intercontinental
markhopkins.com
1188  Powell–Mason @ 1, Chinese American artists such  T2 ⌂ 999 California St
as Jake Lee and Stella Wong.
8, 8X, 8BX, 30, 45 # 11am–
4pm Wed–Sun ∑ chsa.org The Chinese contribution At the behest of his wife Mary,
to California’s development Mark Hopkins, one of the
Founded in 1963, this is the was extensive. Chinese founders of the Central Pacific
oldest organization in the workers helped build the Railroad, arranged for a
country dedicated to the western half of the first fantastic wooden mansion,
interpretation, promotion, transcontinental railroad and surpassing every other for
and preservation of the constructed dikes throughout ostentatious ornamentation,
history and contributions the Sacramento River delta. to be built on Nob Hill. When
of Chinese people in America. The society sponsors oral Mrs. Hopkins died, the house
One of the exhibits is a history projects, an “In Search became home to the fledg ling
multimedia display chronic- of Roots” program, and a San Francisco Art Institute. It
ling the complex history of monthly speakers’ forum.
the Chinese in America,
replicas of Angel Island
barracks and interrogation 0
room, and paintings by
Pacific Heritage
Museum
 U2 ⌂ 608 Commercial St
SHOP § 399-1124 @ 1, 8, 8AX,
8BX, 30X, 41 # 10am–4pm
Tue–Sat
Chinatown Kite Shop As elegant as the frequently
This store offers a little changing collections of Asian
bit of everything, from arts displayed within, this is
Chinese clothing to actually a synthesis of two
homeware, but the real distinct buildings. The US Sub-
stars are the fantastic Treasury was built here in
kites that hang like 1875–7 by William Appleton
colorful decorations Potter, on the site of San
from Francisco’s ori ginal mint.
the ceiling.
 T2 ⌂ 717 Grant Ave
∑ chinatownkite.com
Top of the Mark rooftop bar, a
perfect place to sip a cocktail
and watch the sun set
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burned in the fire after the
earthquake of 1906, and only THE NOBS OF NOB HILL
the granite retaining walls “Nob” was one of the kinder names reserved for the
remain. The present 25-story unscrupulous entrepreneurs who amassed huge
tower, capped by a flag visible fortunes during the development of the American West.
from all over the city, was built Many of the “nobs” who lived on Nob Hill acquired other
in 1925 by archi tects Weeks nicknames that hint at the wild stories behind their vast
and Day. Top of the Mark, the wealth. “Bonanza King” James Flood formed a partner­
glass-walled cocktail bar on ship with three Irish immigrants and, in 1872, the four
the 19th floor, is one of San men bought controlling interests in some dwindling
Francisco’s most celebrated Comstock mines, sinking new shafts and striking a
drinking establishments, “bonanza” – a rich pocket of high­grade silver ore. Flood
enjoying spectacular pano- returned to San Francisco as a millionaire and bought
ramic views of the city. World a parcel of land on the summit of Nob Hill.
War II servicemen customarily
drank a farewell toast to the
city here before leaving earth quake, and stood for 13
for overseas. two days before it was burned
down. Rebuilt by architect The Pacific-Union Club
Julia Morgan within the  T2 ⌂ 1000 California St
12 original white terracotta § 775-1234 @ 1
façade, it opened for business
Fairmont Hotel one year later. After World  California St, Powell–
War II it was the scene of Mason, Powell–Hyde
 T2 ⌂ 950 Mason St meetings that led to the ¢ To the public
@ 1  California St, Powell–
Mason, Powell–Hyde founding of the United In 1885, Augustus Laver built
∑ fairmont.com/san- Nations. For some stunning this townhouse for one of
francisco views, ride the elevator to the the Nobs of Nob Hill – the
city’s highest observation “Bonanza King” James Flood.
Built by Tessie Fair Oelrichs point, the Fairmont Crown; or, Its brown sandstone facade
(1871–1926), an American enjoy a cocktail at the hotel’s survived the 1906 fire, though
socialite and wife of steam- famed Tonga Room and the other mansions, built of
ship magnate Heinrich Hurricane Bar, which serves wood, were destroyed. The
Oelrichs, this Beaux Arts Polynesian fusion cuisine gutted building was bought
building was completed on and is well known for its by the Pacific-Union Club, an
the eve of the 1906 major extravagant tropical decor. exclusive gentlemen’s club.



































126-127_EW_San_Francisco.indd 127 30/11/2018 12:09

A SHORT WALK
CHINATOWN




Distance 1 mile (0.6 km) Time 15 minutes
Nearest bus 8, 30, 45, 91 Watch cookies
EXPERIENCE Chinatown and Nob Hill Stockton Street, where the freshest produce and fish spill over Ross Fortune Cookie
Grant Avenue is the tourist Chinatown of dragon lampposts,
upturned rooflines and stores packed to the rafters with
being made at
Golden Gate
everything from kites to cooking utensils. Locals shop on
Company (p124).
in boxes onto crowded sidewalks. In the alleys in between, look
for traditional temples, shops, and family-run restaurants.
Alley
START
J A C K S O N S T R E E T
To bus nos.
8, 30, 45, 91

Authentic sights and WA S H I N G T O N S T R E E T
sounds of the Far East
echo in the busy
Chinatown Alleys.


Chinese Historical Society
of America (p126)

Tin How Temple (p124) was G R A N T
founded in 1852 by Chinese
people grateful for their safe
arrival in San Francisco. S A C R A M E N T O S T R E E T
Kong Chow Temple AV E N U E
features fine Cantonese
wood carvings.



Cable cars run down California Street C A L I F O R N I A S T R E E T
and are an essential part of the area’s
bustling atmosphere. Any of the three
lines will take you there.

0 meters 80 N
0 yards 80 S T O C K T O N S T R E E T







Grant Avenue,
Chinatown’s main B U S H S T R E E T
commercial thoroughfare





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CHINATOWN
AND NOB HILL
The elegant
interior of Old
St. Mary’s Locator Map
Cathedral For more detail see p116

Laid out in 1839, Portsmouth
Square (p125) was the social
center for the village of Yerba
Buena, the original settlement
that later became San Francisco. Did You Know?
Today people gather here to
J A C K S O N S T R E E T play cards and mahjong. San Francisco’s
Chinatown is the
oldest one in
North America.





The Chinese Cultural Center
contains an art gallery and a
small crafts shop. It sponsors
a lively series of lectures
and seminars.
G R A N T
C L AY S T R E E T
Housed in an elegant
K E A R N Y S T R E E T
building, the small Pacific
Heritage Museum (p126)
has fine exhibitions
of Asian art.
AV E N U E
In the mid-19th century, Grant
Avenue (p122) was the main
thoroughfare of Yerba Buena.
It is now the busy commercial
C A L I F O R N I A S T R E E T
center of Chinatown.
The clock tower of Old St. Mary’s
Cathedral (p124), built while the
city was still in its infancy, bears
an arresting inscription.
St. Mary’s Square is a quiet
haven in which to take a rest.
P I N E S T R E E T
To bus nos. 8, 30, 45, 91
S T O C K T O N S T R E E T
Also known as the
“Dragons’ Gate,”
FINISH Chinatown Gateway
(p124) marks Chinatown’s
southern entrance.
B U S H S T R E E T
129



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A SHORT WALK
NOB HILL




Distance 0.5 mile (0.8 km) Time 15 minutes
Nearest bus 1, 27
EXPERIENCE Chinatown and Nob Hill steep slopes were treacherous for carriages The Pacific-Union Club
Nob Hill is the highest summit of the city
center, rising 338 ft (103 m) above the bay,
and affording splendid views of the city. Its
and kept prominent citizens away until the
opening of the California Street cable car line
in 1878. After that, the wealthy “nobs” soon built
(p127), now an exclusive
new homes on the peak of the hill. Though
men’s club, was once the
many of the grandiose mansions were burned
mansion of Comstock
down in the great fire of 1906 (p53), Nob Hill
millionaire James Flood.
still attracts the affluent to its many splendid
hotels. A stroll through this well-heeled
Huntington Park
is on the site of Collis P.
neighborhood will lead you past some of
Huntington’s mansion.
the most expensive real estate in the US.
S AC R A M E N TO ST R E E T FINISH
Grace Cathedral
(p125) is a replica of
Notre Dame in Paris.

C A L I F O R N I A
TAY LO R S T R E E T
START












J O N E S S T R E E T


The Nob Hill Masonic
Auditorium honors Freemasons
who died in American wars.

Huntington Hotel
with its Big Four Bar and
The interior of Grace Restaurant exudes the opulent
Cathedral with beautiful urbane atmosphere of the
stained-glass windows Victorian era on Nob Hill.
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CHINATOWN
AND NOB HILL


The lobby of the Fairmont
Hotel, one of the grandest Locator Map
hotels on Nob Hill For more detail see p116

The luxurious Fairmont Hotel
(p127) is known for its marble lobby
and elegant dining.

The Top of the Mark
penthouse bar in the Mark
Hopkins InterContinental Hotel is
famous for its spectacular views.
FINISH Stanford Court Hotel
occupies the site of
S AC R A M E N TO ST R E E T M A S O N S T R E E T Stanford’s mansion;
the original boundary
walls remain.




S T R E E T

C A L I F O R N I A











P I N E S T R E E T




0 metres 50 N
0 yards 50





The grand exterior of
the 1920s Mark Hopkins
InterContinental Hotel

131



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Facade of SFMOMA on 3rd Street


































DOWNTOWN
AND SOMA




Montgomery Street, now in the heart of downtown
San Francisco, was once a street of small shops,
where miners came to weigh their gold dust. It
roughly marks the old shoreline of the shallow
Yerba Buena Cove, which was filled in during the
Gold Rush years (p52) to create more land. Today,
old-style banking halls from the early 20th century
stand in the shadow of glass and steel skyscrapers,
and crowds of office workers throng the streets.
Bordering this high-profile hub is SOMA –
“South of Market” – which has had a dramatic,
and often tragic, history. The original residential
district here was almost completely destroyed
during the 1906 earthquake, and the gay
community based here several decades later was
threatened when City Hall tried to close down and
redevelop much of the area during the 1970s and
80s. Now, however, the area has found a firm
place as a contemporary and bustling district
of galleries, fine dining, and office towers.
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S T R E E T S T R E E T Pier 41 Pier 41 Sausalito, TiburonSausalito, Tiburon
Vallejo, LarkspurVallejo, Larkspur
Embarcadero
Embarcadero
U N I O N U N I O N C O L U M B U S C O L U M B U S FISHERMAN’S WHARFFISHERMAN’S WHARF and Broadway
and Broadway
AND NORTH BEACHAND NORTH BEACH Pier 5 Pier 5
p90 p90
POWELL
POWELL
Pier 1 Pier 1
T A Y L O R
T A Y L O R
RUSSIANRUSSIAN A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E
HILL HILL ST REET ST REET P A C I F I C P A C I F I C STREET STREET Oakland, AlamedaOakland, Alameda
Jackson Square
Jackson Square
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y Historic District SANSOME BATTERY SANSOME JACKSON JACKSON
Historic District
L E AV E N WO R T H
L E AV E N WO R T H
A V E N U E A V E N U E Ferry Ferry
BATTERY
Plaza
Plaza
P A C I F I C P A C I F I C S T R E E T STREET STREET STREET MARITIME MARITIME Ferry Ferry
TransamericaTransamerica PLAZA PLAZA BuildingBuilding
STREET
PyramidPyramid Embarcadero D R U M M D R U M M
S T R E E T
Embarcadero
Center Center ST ST EmbarcaderoEmbarcadero
S T R E E T S T R E E T CHINATOWNCHINATOWN SACRAMENTO SACRAMENTO ST Plaza Plaza T H E T H E
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
ST
W A S H I N G T O N
W A S H I N G T O N NOB NOB Wells Fargo Bank of Bank of DAVIS FRONT DAVIS
Wells Fargo
History Museum
FRONT
HILL HILL History Museum California California ST ST ST
S T R E E T S T R E E T Merchant's EmbarcaderoEmbarcadero S T E U A R T S T E U A R T
ST
Merchant's
PINE STREET
S A C R A M E N T O CHINATOWNCHINATOWN Exchange Exchange PINE STREET Rincon Rincon E M B A R C A D E R O
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AND NOB HILLAND NOB HILL
Center Center
Pacific Coast
S T R E E T S T R E E T Pacific Coast S T R E E T S T R E E T
Stock Exchange
Stock Exchange
E M B A R C A D E R O
C A L I F O R N I A P114 P114 KEARNY KEARNY BUSH ST BUSH ST M A I N M A I N S T R E E T P E A R S T R E E T
C A L I F O R N I A
S
S T R E E T S T R E E T MONTGOMERY MONTGOMERY B E A L E S T R E E T S P E A R Folsom Folsom Pier 24 Pier 24
M A R K E T S T R E E T
STEVENSON ST
B E A L E
Hallidie Building
P I N E P I N E Hallidie Building Amtrak S T R E E T Amtrak
S T R E E T S T R E E T Street S T R E E T STEVENSON ST Terminal Terminal
Crocker Crocker ST SalesforceSalesforce S T R E E T
ST
B U S H B U S H Galleria Galleria MontgomeryMontgomery S T R E E T S T R E E T Pier 26 Pier 26
Transit CenterTransit Center
S T R E E T S T R E E T G R A N T G R A N T Street F R E M O N T
S U T T E R S U T T E R P OW E LL S T R E E T Union STOCKTON Union STOCKTON ST F R E M O N T S T S T R E E T S T R E E T
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1
Palace Palace
S T R E E T A V E Gump's Gump's M A R K E T S T R E E T S T R E E T
P OW E LL
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P O S T J O N E S P O S T T A Y L O R Maiden Maiden Hotel Hotel H O W A R D H O W A R D ST S T R E E T S T R E E T
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J O N E S
S T R E E T S T R E E T Macy's Macy's California Historical TEHAMA TEHAMA S T R E E T S T R E E T T R E E T T H E E T
California Historical
T A Y L O R
STREET
B R Y A N T M E S L I C K F R E E W A Y
Theater G E A R Y Contemporary Society Society S T R E E T S T R E E T Pier 30-32 Pier 30-32
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STRE E T
STRE E T
Museum of the
District District S T R E E T S T R E E T Jewish Museum 3 R D 3 R D Museum of the GUY PL GUY PL S T R E E T S T R E
Jewish Museum
T H E
African Diaspora
African Diaspora
2 N D
O ’ F A R R E L L O ’ F A R R E L L SFMOMA SFMOMA 2 N D
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E L L I S E L L I S San Francisco Visitor Powell Powell S T R E E T S T R E E T F O L S O M Brannan Brannan
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H Y D E
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Information Center Street Street HAWTHORNE HAWTHORNE S T R E E T 1ST 1ST
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L A R K I N
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Moscone Moscone
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CENTERCENTER 7 T H NATOM 7 T H NATOM HARRIET ST S T R E E T S T R E E T C L A R A C L A R A S T R E E T F RE E L ON E T Park Park
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Vision Vision M O H A R R I S O N H A R R I S O N S T R E F RE E L ON T O W N S E N D
Gallery Gallery M O S S S T ST F O L S O M S T R E E T S T R E E T T S T R E E T S T R E E T W N S E N D
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S T R E E T S T R E E T Pier 41 Pier 41 Sausalito, TiburonSausalito, Tiburon
Vallejo, LarkspurVallejo, Larkspur
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Embarcadero
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AND NORTH BEACHAND NORTH BEACH Pier 5 Pier 5
p90 p90 DOWNTOWN
POWELL
POWELL
Pier 1 Pier 1 AND SOMA
T A Y L O R
RUSSIANRUSSIAN A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E A V E N U E
T A Y L O R
HILL HILL ST REET ST REET P A C I F I C P A C I F I C STREET STREET Oakland, Alameda
Oakland, Alameda
Jackson Square
Jackson Square
B R O A D W A Y
B R O A D W A Y Historic District SANSOME BATTERY SANSOME JACKSON JACKSON Must Sees
Historic District
L E AV E N WO R T H
L E AV E N WO R T H
A V E N U E A V E N U E Ferry Ferry 1 Ferry Building
BATTERY
Plaza
Plaza
P A C I F I C P A C I F I C S T R E E T STREET STREET STREET MARITIME MARITIME Ferry Ferry 2 SFMOMA
TransamericaTransamerica PLAZA PLAZA BuildingBuilding 3 Yerba Buena Gardens
STREET
PyramidPyramid Embarcadero D R U M M D R U M M
S T R E E T
Embarcadero
Center Center ST ST EmbarcaderoEmbarcadero
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S T R E E T
S T R E E T
ST
W A S H I N G T O N NOB NOB Wells Fargo Bank of Bank of DAVIS FRONT DAVIS 4 Embarcadero Center
W A S H I N G T O N
Wells Fargo
History Museum
FRONT
HILL HILL History Museum California California ST ST ST 5 Jackson Square Historic District
6 Wells Fargo History Museum
S T R E E T S T R E E T Merchant's EmbarcaderoEmbarcadero S T E U A R T S T E U A R T 7 Transamerica Pyramid
ST
Merchant's
PINE STREET
S A C R A M E N T O
S A C R A M E N T O CHINATOWNCHINATOWN Exchange Exchange PINE STREET Rincon Rincon E M B A R C A D E R O
AND NOB HILLAND NOB HILL
Center Center
Pacific Coast
S T R E E T S T R E E T Pacific Coast S T R E E T S T R E E T 8 Bank of California
Stock Exchange
Stock Exchange
E M B A R C A D E R O
C A L I F O R N I A
C A L I F O R N I A P114 P114 KEARNY KEARNY BUSH ST BUSH ST M A I N M A I N S T R E E T P E A R S T R E E T 9 Hallidie Building
S
S T R E E T S T R E E T MONTGOMERY MONTGOMERY B E A L E S T R E E T S P E A R Folsom Folsom Pier 24 Pier 24 10 Embarcadero Plaza
M A R K E T S T R E E T
STEVENSON ST
B E A L E
Hallidie Building
P I N E P I N E Hallidie Building Amtrak S T R E E T Amtrak 11 Merchants’ Exchange
S T R E E T S T R E E T Street S T R E E T STEVENSON ST Terminal Terminal
Crocker Crocker ST SalesforceSalesforce S T R E E T 12 Pacific Coast Stock Exchange
ST
B U S H B U S H Galleria Galleria MontgomeryMontgomery S T R E E T S T R E E T Pier 26 Pier 26 13 Contemporary Jewish Museum
Transit CenterTransit Center
S T R E E T S T R E E T G R A N T G R A N T Street F R E M O N T
S U T T E R S U T T E R P OW E LL S T R E E T Union STOCKTON Union STOCKTON ST F R E M O N T S T S T R E E T S T R E E T 14 California Historical Society
Square Square ST A V E M I S S I O N M I S S I O N 1 S T Pier 28 Pier 28
1
Palace Palace
S T R E E T A V E Gump's Gump's M A R K E T S T R E E T S T R E E T 15 Rincon Center
ST
P OW E LL
P O S T J O N E S P O S T T A Y L O R Maiden Maiden Hotel Hotel H O W A R D H O W A R D ST S T R E E T S T R E E T
Lane STREET Lane S 16 Museum of the African Diaspora
J O N E S
California Historical
S T R E E T S T R E E T Macy's Macy's California Historical TEHAMA TEHAMA S T R E E T S T R E E T T R E E T T H E E T
T A Y L O R
STREET
B R Y A N T M E S L I C K F R E E W A Y
Theater G E A R Y Contemporary Society Society S T R E E T S T R E E T Pier 30-32 Pier 30-32 17 Palace Hotel
Theater G E A R Y
Contemporary
STRE E T
STRE E T
Museum of the
District District S T R E E T S T R E E T Jewish Museum 3 R D 3 R D Museum of the GUY PL GUY PL S T R E E T S T R E 18 Maiden Lane
Jewish Museum
T H E
African Diaspora
African Diaspora
2 N D
O ’ F A R R E L L O ’ F A R R E L L SFMOMA SFMOMA 2 N D 19 Crocker Galleria
Yerba Buena
Powell St Cable Yerba Buena J A M E S L I C K F R E E W A Y 20 Gump’s
Powell St Cable
Car Turntable
S T R E E T S T R E E T Car Turntable Gardens Gardens
F O L S O M
E L L I S E L L I S San Francisco Visitor Powell Powell S T R E E T S T R E E T F O L S O M Brannan Brannan 21 Union Square
L A R
San Francisco Visitor
H Y D E
Information Center
Information Center Street Street HAWTHORNE HAWTHORNE S T R E E T 1ST 1ST 22 Theater District
H Y D E K I N
L A R K I N
S T R E E T
Moscone Moscone
CIVIC CENTERCIVIC CENTER E D D Y S T ST 4 T H ST 4 T H Convention ST ST J A B R Y A N T E M B A R C A D E R O E M B A R C A D E R O 23 Powell Street Cable Car Turntable
L E A V
Convention
AND HAYESAND HAYES S T R E S T R E Center Center ST ST STREET STREET 24 Mint Plaza
S T R E E T R K E T S T R E E T
M A R K E T S T R E E T S T R E E T MARY STREET MARY STREET S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T H A R R I S O N H A R R I S O N CENTRAL PARK CENTRAL PARK Pier 40 Pier 40 26 AT&T Park
MINNA
VALLEYVALLEY T U R K T U R K S T R E E T E T Mint Mint MINNA SOMASOMA ST R E E T ST R E E T Pier 38 Pier 38 25 San Francisco Visitor Information
L E A V E N W O R T H
E D D Y S T E N W O R T H
S T R E E T E T
p158 p158 Plaza Plaza STILLMAN STILLMAN
SOUTH
SOUTH
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S T R E E T
S T R
ST B R A N N A N
S T R E E T
PL
5 T H
5 T H
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STANFORD
6 T H O N
S T R E E T
Center Center M I S S I O N STREET STREET TEHAMA TEHAMA S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T R I T C H R I T C H 2nd & King 2nd & King 1 Donut Farm, El Porteño, The
S T R E E
S T R E E T S T R E E T
M I S S I
S T R E E T
S T R E E T T
STREET
S T E V E N S O N S T E V E N S O N R U S S S T MINNA STREET CLEMENTINA CLEMENTINA ZOE ST ZOE ST Slanted Door, MarketBar
CIVICCIVIC J E S S I E J E S S I E MINNA R U S S S T S T R E E T S H I P L E Y S T R E E T S H I P L E Y 4 T H S T 4 T H S T S T R E E T S T R E E T AT&T AT&T 2 Tadich Grill
H O W A R D
H O W A R D
CENTERCENTER 7 T H NATOM 7 T H NATOM HARRIET ST S T R E E T S T R E E T C L A R A C L A R A S T R E E T F R EEL ON E T Park Park 3 Boulevard
HARRIET ST
Vision Vision M O H A R R I S O N H A R R I S O N S T R E F R EEL ON T O W N S E N D
Gallery Gallery M O S S S T ST F O L S O M S T R E E T S T R E E T T S T R E E T S T R E E T W N S E N D Drink
T O
F O L S O M S S S T COLUMBIA SQ 5 T H 5 T H S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T Oakland, Oakland, 4 Cityscape Bar & Lounge
Alameda
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ST
S T R E E T
S T R E E T
HAIGHT ASHBURYHAIGHT ASHBURY RAUSCH LANGTON ST LANGTON SHERMAN ST SHERMAN ST B R Y A N T B R Y A N T S T R E E CHINA BASIN ST CHINA BASIN ST 5 The View Lounge
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p172 p172 Hall of Hall of S T R E E T S T R E E T Francisco Francisco Pier 48 Pier 48 6 Press Club
Justice Justice HARRIET ST B L U X O M E A N N A N B L U X O M E K I N G S T R E E T I N G S T R E E T 3 R D 3 R D Stay
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HARRIET ST
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S T R E E T 4 T H S T R E E T 4 T H Pier 50 Pier 50 7 Loews Regency San Francisco
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AND SOMAAND SOMA B E R R Y B E R R Y Mission Rock MISSION ROCK ST Shop
MISSION ROCK ST
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C H A N N E L


C H A N N E L MISSION S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T S T R E E T 9 Alexander Book Company
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FERRY


BUILDING


EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA check website ∑ ferrybuildingmarketplace.com
 E3 ⌂ Embarcadero at Market St @ 2, 6, 21, 31, 82 v E, F,
J, K, L, M, N  California St g SF Bay Ferry # Times vary,
This historic entry point into the city is now a chic
marketplace and food hall. Everything on offer is
made with flair and care by local producers devoted to
sustainability and traditional production techniques.
Once an important point of entry into the
city, the Ferry Bulding is now a marketplace.
It houses many gourmet shops, several
restaurants and eateries, and hosts a farmers’
market on Tuesdays and Saturdays. There’s a
distinctly northern California feel to the Ferry
Building Marketplace in the way it celebrates
popular modern principles like using regional
produce, traditional farming, and local and
artisan producers.
The Old Ferry Terminal
Constructed between 1896 and 1903, the
Ferry Building survived the great fire of 1906
through the intercession of fireboats
pumping water from the bay. The
clock tower is 235 ft (71 m) high,
and was inspired by the Moorish
bell tower of Seville Cathedral. In
the early 1930s more than 50
million passengers a year
passed through the build­
ing. With the opening of
the Bay Bridge in 1936,
the Ferry Building
ceased to be the
city’s main point of
entry, but even today
ferries still cross the
bay to Larkspur and
Sausalito in Marin
County and Alameda
and Oakland in
the East Bay.
The Ferry Building at
night and the farmers’
market (inset)

The Ferry
Building’s clock
tower, an iconic Inside the open and
feature of the inviting Ferry Building
lcoal skyline Marketplace





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Must See






Did You Know?
At the farmers’ market,
local celebrity chefs
shop for local, farm-to-
table ingredients.































EAT

Donut Farm The Slanted Door
Vegan-friendly menu with A highly acclaimed
delightful donuts and Vietnamese restaurant
great breakfast options. overlooking the Bay.
# Sat only ∑ vegan ∑ slanteddoor.com
donut.farm
\\\
\\\
MarketBar
El Porteño This brasserie uses
Argentinian empanadas ingredients from the
passed down from an old venue’s Farmers’ Market in
family recipe. its seasonal seasfood.
∑ elportenosf.com ∑ marketbar.com
\\\ \\\




137



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SFMOMA



 C1 ⌂ 151 3rd St @ 5, 9, 12, 14, 30, 38, 45 v J, K, L, M, N, T
# 10am–5pm Thu–Tue (to 9pm Thu) ∑ sfmoma.org
Standing proudly on the northeast side of the Yerba
EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA (SFMOMA) is as artistically innovative as the works
Buena Gardens art and entertainment complex, the
exterior of the San Francisco Museum of Modern Art
displayed within it.

This museum forms the nucleus of San Francisco’s reputation
as a leading center of modern art. Opening in 1935 at the
Veterans Building (p167), it moved into its current quarters in
1995, and in spring 2016 reopened after a major three-year
$365 million expansion that doubled its capacity. Designed by
the international architecture firm Snøhetta, the 235,000 sq ft
(21,832 sq m) expansion is seamlessly integrated with Swiss
architect Mario Botta’s 1995 modernist building. The museum
offers a dynamic schedule of special exhibitions and
permanent collection presentations.
Museum Highlights
SFMOMA is both an outstanding repository
of modern and contemporary art and a powerhouse of
inspiration and encourage ment to the local art scene. With
more than 30,000 works of art in the museum’s perm anent
collection, you’ll see works ranging from traditional paintings
to media arts, architecture, and design. The museum’s main
strengths lie in US and Latin American modernism,
Fauvism, Surrealism, Abstract Expressionism,
Minimalism and post-Minimalism, Pop art,
postwar German art, and the art of California.
The 2016 expan sion brought a notable
addition: the 15,000-sq-ft (1,393-sq-m)
Pritzker Center for Photography, the
largest space dedicated to this artform
in any art museum in the country.













Gallery Guide Level One Level Two
Here you’ll find the
The permanent
collection, Education
excellent museum
store, the Michelin-
Center, and library
starred restaurant In
are housed on
Situ, a theater, and
large abstract works the second floor,
interspersed with
The Howard Street entrance and by Julie Mehretu some temporary
visitors at a media arts exhibit (inset)
exhibits
138
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Must See










































The vibrant
Figures with
Sunset (1978) by
Roy Lichtenstein










Level Three Level Four Level Five Level Six
▲ The fabulous Center ▲ The Agnes Martin and ▲ The fifth floor houses ▲ The Anselm Kiefer
for Photography sits on Kelly Elsworth Galleries, a variety of museum and Gerhard Richter
the third floor along event space, and many highlights including the Galleries
with the Sculpture temporary exhibits Oculus Bridge, Andy
Terrace, Graphic Design Warhol gallery, and Level Seven
Gallery, and the 30-ft- Sculpture Garden
(9-m-) high Living Wall Sculpture Terrace and
temporary exhibits
139



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LOWER FLOORS

California Arts Center for Photography, Paintings
On the second floor there are located on the third-floor. and Sculpture
galleries dedicated to works The collection of Modernist Included in the museum’s
by California artists. These American masters includes permanent holdings are over
painters and sculptors have Berenice Abbott, Walker 8,000 paintings, sculptures,
drawn their inspiration from
and works on paper. American
Evans, Edward Steichen,
EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA art that is unique to the West California photographers. by Philip Guston, Franz Kline,
local materials and scenes to
Abstract Expressionism is well
and Alfred Stieglitz, with
represented at the museum
create an influential body of
special attention paid to
and Jackson Pollock, whose
Coast. Collage and assemblage
It has the finest collection
of Japanese photography
first ever museum exhibition
artists exhibited on rotation
outside of Japan, as well as
from the museum’s collection
took place here at SFMOMA.
Other prominent North
extensive collections from
make use of every day
materials such as felt-tip
Latin America and Europe,
and Latin American artists
including German avant-
whose works are displayed
pens, junkyard scraps and old
garde photographers of
paint ings, producing art with
in the museum collections
a distinctive West Coast flavor.
Rivera, and Georgia O’Keeffe.
Surrealists of the 1930s.
Photography
Another exhibition area
permanently shows works
Drawing on its enormous
by Jasper Johns, Robert
permanent collection of the 1920s, and European include Frida Kahlo, Diego
over 17,800 photographs, the Did You Know? Rauschenberg, and Andy
museum presents wonderful Warhol, among others.
exhibitions of the photo- SFMOMA’s collection There is a good collection
graphic arts in the Pritzker began with paintings of the European Modernists,
donated by Albert M. including notable paintings
Bender, a dedicated by Pablo Picasso from various
A display in the patron of the arts. periods. A large collection
Pritzker Center for of works by Paul Klee are
Photography accommodated in an
individual gallery, with works
by the famous French painter
of the Fauvist school, Henri
Matisse, nearby on the
second floor.







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An actively changing
schedule of contemp­
orary art exhibits
supple ments the
museum’s historical
collection and does
much to encourage
today’s art scene.













Alexander state-of-the-art equipment to
Calder present photographic, multi-
sculptures; image and multimedia works,
Frieda and film, video, and selected
Diego Rivera programs of interactive
(1931), by media artwork.
Frida Kahlo The museum’s growing
(inset) permanent collection includes
pieces by artists such as Nam
UPPER FLOORS June Paik, Don Graham, Peter
Campus, Joan Jonas, Lynn
Hershman Leeson, Bill Viola,
Architecture who was responsible for Doug Hall, and Mary Lucier.
and Design some of the most beautiful
SFMOMA’s Department of buildings in the Bay Area, Contemporary Art and
Architecture and Design was including the Palace of Fine Special Exhibitions
founded in 1983. Its function Arts (p68). Other noted San The fourth floor features
is to procure and maintain Francisco Bay Area architects special exhibition galleries.
a collection of historical and represented are Timothy An actively changing schedule
contemporary architectural Pflueger, William Wurster, of contemporary art exhibits
drawings, models, and design and Willis Polk, known for his supple ments the museum’s
objects, and to examine and design of the glass and steel historical collection and does
illuminate their influences Hallidie Building (p146), as much to encourage today’s
on modern art. Its current well as the California design art scene. The museum also
holding of over 6,000 items team of Charles and Ray has regular film screenings
focuses on architecture, Eames. The permanent and public talks in the theater.
furniture, product design, and collection also includes works
graphic design, and is widely by Frank Lloyd Wright, Frank
consid ered one of the most Gehry, and Fumihiko Maki. INSIDER TIP
significant in the United In Situ
States. The new sixth-floor Media Arts SFMOMA’s Michelin-
galleries offer rotating Established in 1988, the starred restaurant
exhibitions. Department of Media Arts brings together a
Among items included in collects, conserves, docu- collection of dishes
the permanent collection are ments, and exhibits art of from around the world.
models, drawings, prints, and the moving image, including Walk-ins are welcome,
prototypes by well-known works in video, film, projected but it’s best to book in
and emerging designers. image, electronic arts, and advance (insitu.sfmoma.
These include the famous time-based media. The org/reservation).
architect Bernard Maybeck, seventh-floor galleries deploy
141



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3 \-
YERBA BUENA


GARDENS


EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA Teeming with art installations, green spaces, and museums spread
 C5 ⌂ Mission, 3rd, Folsom, 4th & Howard streets @ 9, 14, 30,
45, 76 v J, K, L, M,N, T # 6am–11pm daily ∑ yerbabuenagardens.com
out across several modern buildings, the Yerba Buena Gardens feel
like a mini artists’ community. With so much to explore, it’s the
perfect location for both art lovers and urban adventurers.
The construction of the Moscone Center,
The Yerba Buena Center
San Francisco’s largest venue for conventions,
for the Arts is made up of
was just the first in a series of ambitious
development plans for Yerba Buena Gardens.
Theater buildings.
Esplanade
Housing, hotels, museums, galleries, gardens,
Gardens,
and restaurants have all followed, and now the
visitors can
area is a vibrant hub of activity. Check the At the the Galleries, Forum, and
catch free
Yerba Buena Gardens website for information events in the
about hours and admission prices for the summer.
individual buildings on site.





The Martin Luther
King Jr. Memorial has
words of peace in
several languages.
















The Children’s
Creativity Museum
combines imagination
with art and technology
Shaking Man (1993), a tools, and visitors can create
statue by Terry Allen animations, music videos,
at Esplanade Gardens digital art, and more.
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Must See

















The Esplanade
Gardens, opposite
the SFMOMA
Did You Know?
North entrance to At the Lam Research Theater World-class art events
Moscone Center performing arts reflecting the take place at the Yerba
cultural diversity of San Francisco Buena Gardens
are presented in the 755-seat Festival between
indoor theater.
May and October.

East Garden
The Yerba Buena
Gardens complex
of entertainment
and arts venues













Moscone
Center

Ice-skating rink and
bowling alley

MOSCONE CENTER
Esplanade Ballroom Engineer T.Y. Lin found an ingenious way to
is part of San support the children’s center above the huge
Francisco’s extensive underground hall without a single interior
convention facilities.
Sister City It is available for column. The bases of the eight steel arches are
Garden large conferences linked by cables under the floor. By tightening
and symposia. them, the arches exert enormous upward thrust.

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EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA















EXPERIENCE MORE


4 5 6 =
Embarcadero Center Jackson Square Wells Fargo History
Historic District Museum
 P3 @ Many buses v E, F,
J, K, L, M, N, T  California St  N3 @ 8AX, 8BX, 10,  P3 ⌂ 420 Montgomery St
12, 41, 82X ∑ jackson @ 1, 3, 8, 8AX, 8BX, 10, 12,
The Embarcadero Center was squaresf.com 30X, 41  California St
completed in 1981 after a  Montgomery # 9am–
decade of construction, the Renovated in the early 1950s, 5pm Mon–Fri ∑ wellsfargo
largest redevelopment this low-rise neighborhood history.com/museums/
project in the city’s history. contains many historic ornate san-francisco
The complex of hotels and brick, cast-iron, and granite
office and retail space reaches facades dating from the Gold Founded in 1852, Wells Fargo
from Embarcadero Plaza Rush era. From 1850 to 1910, & Co. became the greatest
(p147) to Battery Street. Four it was notorious for its squalor banking and transportation
sepa rate high-rise towers and the crudeness of its company in the West and was
reach upward 35 to 40 stories inhabitants, and was known influential in the development
above the landscaped plazas as the Barbary Coast. The of the American frontier. The
and elevated walkways. Hippodrome at No. 555 Pacific company moved people and
Embarcadero Center’s Street used to be a theater;
most spectacular interior the bawdy relief sculptures
is the lobby of the Hyatt in the recessed front recall
Regency Hotel. Its 17-story the risqué shows that were
atrium contains an immense performed there. Today the
sculptured globe, made up of buildings of the Jackson
1,440 interlacing aluminium Square Historic District
tubes, by Charles O. Perry, are used as show rooms, law
entitled Eclipse (1973). Glass offices, top-notch restaurants,
elevators glide up and down design and fashion boutiques,
one wall, carrying visitors to art galleries, and antique
and from their rooms. Also shops; the most attractive
housed in the center is an buildings can be seen on
array of shops and a movie Jackson Street, Gold Street, A mail coach on display
theater screening inde- Hotaling Place, and in the Wells Fargo
pendent and foreign movies. Montgomery Street. History Museum
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Charles O. Perry’s dramatic
sculpture, Eclipse, in the
Hyatt Regency Hotel’s lobby Did You Know?
SOMA’s new Salesforce
Francis Brocklehurst, an Tower is 1,070 ft
immigrant, and view exhibits (326 m) tall.
that include Pony Express
mail, a working telegraph,
weaponry, and gold nuggets.
city’s skyline. Designed by
7 William Pereira & Associates,
the pyramid houses 1,500
Transamerica office workers on a historically
Pyramid rich site. The Montgomery
Block was built here in 1853.
 P3 ⌂ 600 Montgomery
St @ 1, 8AX, 8BX, 10, 12, In the basement was the
41 ¢ To the public Exchange Saloon, frequented
by Mark Twain. In the 1860s
∑ pyramidcenter.com
artists and writers took up
Capped with a pointed spire residence in the Montgomery
on top of its 48 stories, the Block. The Pony Express
goods from the East to the pyramid reaches 853 ft (256 terminus, marked by a plaque,
West Coast, and between m) above sea level. It is the was at Merchant Street
California mining camps and most recognized building in opposite the pyramid.
towns. It also transported the city and was the tallest The building
gold from the West Coast to until it was overtaken by the has been closed
the East and delivered mail. Salesforce Tower, which was to the public since
Wells Fargo put mail boxes completed in 2018. September 11,
in convenient locations and Although San Franciscans 2001, though
messengers sorted the letters disliked it when it opened there is a vis-
en route. Wells Fargo played a in 1972, they have since itors’ center
major role in the mail service accepted it as part of their in the lobby.
venture, Pony Express.
The stagecoaches, like the
one on display in the museum,
are famous for the leg ends of
heroic drivers and the bandits
who robbed them. The best-
known bandit was Black Bart,
who left poems at the scene
of his crimes. He stalked the
roads from Calaveras County
to the Oregon border bet-
ween 1875 and 1883, holding
up stagecoaches. In one hold-
up he mistakenly left a hand-
kerchief with a distinctive
laundry mark, revealing him
to be a mining engineer
named Charles Boles.
Visitors to the museum can
experience how it felt to sit for
days in a jostling stagecoach,
listen to the recordings of


The Transamerica Pyramid,
one of San Francisco’s most
recognizable sights
145



144-145_EW_San_Francisco.indd 145 30/11/2018 16:44

EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA
















8 colonnaded building was thin zinc panels adorned with
completed in 1908. In the
birds and flowers. A major
Bank of California basement there is a pleasant restoration of the facade was
arcade of shops, restaurants, completed in 2013.
 P3 ⌂ 400 California St
§ 765-0400 @ 1, 30X, 41 and art exhibits.
 California St
William Ralston and Darius 9 10
Mills founded this bank in Embarcadero Plaza
1864. Ralston, known as Hallidie Building  P3 @ Many buses v E, F,
“the man who built San  P4 ⌂ 130 Sutter St J, K, L, M, N  California St
Francisco,” invested profitably @ 3, 8, 30, 45 v K, L, M, N
in Comstock mines, and used  California St  Mont- Formerly known as the Justin
the bank and his personal gomery g Embarcadero Herman Plaza, this open
fortune to finance many civic ¢ To the public square is popular with
projects in San Francisco. lunchtime crowds from the
These included the city’s A unique and important
water company, a theater, architectural achievement, the
and the Palace Hotel (p148). Hallidie Building was the first
However, when economic building in the United States
depression struck in the to use the glass-curtain style,
1870s, Ralston’s empire in which glass panes are
also collapsed. The present suspended in a steel-mullion
grid. When constructed in
1918 by Willis Polk, the seven-
INSIDER TIP floor building was breath-
Naming the takingly modern. It juxtaposes
Plaza minimalist elements like the
In 2017 city officials glass curtain with classic
voted to change the Gothic architectural details
name of the Justin such as embellished cornices,
Herman Plaza. balconies, fire escapes, and
Embarcadero Plaza,
its current title, is
only temporary until
a new name can be The Vaillancourt
decided upon. Fountain in the
Embarcadero Plaza
146



146-147_EW_San_Francisco.indd 146 30/11/2018 12:07

nearby Embarcadero Center
The grand colonnaded facade and other offices. The plaza is
of the Pacific Coast Stock mostly known for its avant- Did You Know?
Exchange building garde Vaillancourt Fountain,
made in 1971 by Canadian California architect
artist Armand Vaillancourt. Julia Morgan helped to
The fountain is modeled from redesign parts of
huge concrete blocks, and the Merchants’
EAT some find it ugly, especially Exchange.
when it runs dry in times
of drought. How ever, you
Tadich Grill can climb on and through
Operating since 1849, it, and its pools and columns news of ships arriving from
this old-school favorite of falling water make it an abroad. The building is now
pulls in the after-work intriguing public work of art an office and events space.
crowds for famously when functioning as intended.
large portions of
seafood. 12
 P3 ⌂ 240 California St 11 Pacific Coast Stock
¢ Sun
∑ tadichgrillsf.com Merchants’ Exchange Exchange
\\\  P4 ⌂ 465 California St  P4 ⌂ 301 Pine St @ 3, 8,
@ 1, 3, 8, 30X, 41 30X, 41 ¢ To the public
Boulevard  California St # 9am–5pm This was once America’s
Indulgent ingredients Mon–Fri; Sat & Sun by largest stock exchange
appointment only
from Pacific swordfish outside New York. Founded
to Burgundy truffles are ∑ mxbuilding.com in 1882, it occu pied these
used to create refined, The exchange, designed by buildings, which were
regionally focused Willis Polk in 1903, survived remodeled by Miller and
dishes. The waterfront the great fire of 1906 with Pflueger in 1930 from the
setting and low lighting little damage. Inside, fine existing US Treasury. The
make this a favorite seascapes by the Irish painter monumental granite statues
date spot. William Coulter line the walls. that flank the Pine Street
 Q3 ⌂ 1 Mission St These depict epic maritime entrance to the build ing were
∑ boulevardrestaurant. scenes from the age of steam made by the renowned San
com and sail. The building was the Francisco sculp tor, painter,
focal point of San Francisco’s and muralist Ralph Stackpole,
\\\
commodities exchange in the also in 1930. No longer a stock
early 20th century, when exchange, the building is now
lookouts in the tower relayed a fitness club.





























146-147_EW_San_Francisco.indd 147 14/12/2018 13:20

18 14 "= 16 "
Museum of the
California Historical
Society African Diaspora
A lucky number in  P4 ⌂ 678 Mission St  P4 ⌂ 685 Mission St
Jewish culture – which @ 8, 14, 30, 45, 81X v J, K, @ 8, 14, 30, 45, 81X v J, K, L,
is why 18 steps lead up L, M, N, T  Montgomery M, N, T # 11am–6pm Wed–
to the Contemporary # Times vary, check Sat, noon–5pm Sun
Jewish Museum.
EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA 13 '-= The society promotes MoAD celebrates black
¢ Major hols ∑ moadsf.org
website ∑ california
historicalsociety.org
A contemporary art museum,
culture. Three to four
understanding of the history
innovative exhibitions are
of California, and houses
Contemporary Jewish
research libraries and a
held at any one time, in
Museum
bookstore. The galleries are
addition to multiple public
particularly interesting and
events every week. The
 P4 ⌂ 736 Mission St
thorough, and include a
museum has emerged as an
@ 8, 14, 30, 45, 81X v J, K, L,
important destination within
photographic collection, 900
M, N, T # 11am–8pm Thu,
paintings and watercolors by
the Yerba Buena Center for
11am–5pm Fri–Tue
¢ Major Jewish holidays
arts exhibit, and a unique
∑ thecjm.org
collection of costumes.
This museum partners with American artists, a decorative the Arts campus.
national and international cul­ 17 \
tural institutions to present a 15 Palace Hotel
variety of art, photography,  P4 ⌂ 2 New Montgomery
and installations celebrating Rincon Center St @ 8, 12, 14, 30, 45,
and exploring Judaism.  Q4 ⌂ 121 Spear St @ 14 81X v J, K, L, M, N, T
The museum is housed in ∑ sfpalace.com
an early 20th­century Pacific This shopping center, with its
Gas & Electric (PG&E) Power soaring atrium, was added on The original Palace Hotel was
Substation, adapted and to the old Rincon Annex Post opened by William Ralston,
redesigned by world­ Office Building in 1989. The one of San Francisco’s best­
renowned architect Daniel Rincon Annex is known for known financiers, in 1875.
Libeskind and unveiled in 27 painted panels titled The
2005. The space features History of California, executed
more than 10,000 sq ft in Social Realist style by
(930 sq m) of exhibition Russian­born Anton Refregier The Contemporary
space and an between 1940 and 1948. Jewish Museum,
impressive redesigned by
education D. Libeskind
center.













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It was the most luxurious
of San Francisco’s early hotels
and was regularly frequented
by the rich and famous.
Among its patrons were Sarah
Bernhardt, Oscar Wilde, and
Rudyard Kipling. The
celebrated tenor Enrico
Caruso was a guest at the
time of the earthquake of
1906, when the hotel caught
fire. It was rebuilt by the
architect George Kelham, and
reopened in 1909. It is best
known for the Garden Court,
its fabulous glass-ceilinged,
colonnaded restaurant, and
its Pied Piper bar. The bar is
decorated with a beautiful
mural by Maxfield Parrish,
which was commissioned by
the hotel on its reopening in
1909. The hotel’s palm-filled
Garden Court also provides a
memorable brunch or high
tea experience.

Among the Palace
Hotel’s patrons were
Sarah Bernhardt,
Oscar Wilde, and
Rudyard Kipling.


The magnificent Garden Court restaurant
at the Palace Hotel, dating from 1909



STAY


Loews Regency YOTEL
San Francisco San Francisco
The reliably luxurious Compact, high-tech rooms
chain occupies the top with rainfall showers, a
floors of a high-rise and rooftop terrace, and
takes full advantage of its numerous social spaces
lofty perch with a stylish, inspired by first-class
open-air lounge on the airline lounges are housed
roof. Some of the plush in one of the few buildings
rooms have great views of to survive the terrible
Alcatraz. 1906 earthquake.
 P4 ⌂ 222 Sansome St  N5 ⌂ 1095 Market St
∑ loewshotels.com ∑ yotel.com
\\\ \\\




149



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Pedestrianized Maiden Lane,
a pretty, tranquil haven
away from the city bustle



20
EXPERIENCE Downtown and SOMA 6, 8, 9, 21, 30, 38, 45 v J, K,
Gump’s
 N4 ⌂ 135 Post St @ 3, 5,
L, M, N, T  Powell–Mason,
Powell–Hyde # 11am–6pm
Mon–Sat ∑ gumps.com
Founded in 1861 by German
immigrants, this homegrown
San Francisco depart ment
store is a local institution.




DRINK


Cityscape
18 Shop, is a designated San Bar & Lounge
Francisco landmark, since it’s
Maiden Lane the only Frank Lloyd Wright- Craft cocktails and a
designed structure in the city. vast selection of wines
 N4 ⌂ Between Stockton Film buffs will get a kick out of are served up with
St and Kearny St @ 3, 30, views of the Golden
38R  Powell–Mason touring one of the city spots Gate Bridge at this chic
 Powell where Alfred Hitchcock shot a rooftop bar.
scene for his movie The Birds.
In the heady days of the Gold  N4 ⌂ 333 O’Farrell St
Rush, this prim-sounding ∑ cityscapesf.com
street played host to San 19
Francisco’s most popular red The View Lounge
light district. Today, its name Crocker Galleria Those in the know head
is associated with its high-end  P4 ⌂ Between Post, to this rooftop before
boutiques, opera-singing Kearny, Sutter, and sunset to grab a cocktail
buskers, and art galleries. A Montgomery Sts @ 3, 5, 6, and a seat for one of the
traffic-free mall located just 8, 21, 30, 38, 45 v J, K, L, M, city’s best views over
off Union Square, lined with N, T  Montgomery ¢ Sun skyscrapers toward the
shops and open-air cafés, the ∑ thecrockergalleria.com San Francisco Bay.
street offers a respite from  P5 ⌂ 780 Mission St
the hustle and bustle just a The Crocker Galleria was built ∑ sfviewlounge.com
block away. One notable in 1982, by the architects
building, the V. C. Morris Gift Skidmore, Owings & Merrill. Press Club
Inspired by the Galleria This underground bar is
Vittorio Emanuele in Milan, the place to be for happy
this building features a central hour, offering generous
Did You Know? plaza underneath a vaulting discounts on local craft
sky -light glass roof. brews and wines by
The street underwent A rooftop garden, farmers’ the glass.
several name changes market, food court, and  P4 ⌂ 20 Yerba
before the city landed dozens of shops, from Buena Lane
on Maiden Lane gourmet patisseries to one- ∑ pressclubsf.com
in 1922. off homeware and fashion
boutiques, are housed here
on three floors.
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