(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

EYEWITNESS TRAVEL


BACK ROADS


GREAT




BRITAIN























































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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL



BACK ROADS


GREAT




BRITAIN





Contributors

Pat Aithie, Robert Andrews, Donna Dailey,
Rebecca Ford, John Harrison, Nick Rider,
Rose Shepherd, Gillian Thomas, Roger Williams










































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CONTENTS


ABOUT THIS BOOK 6
INTRODUCING GREAT BRITAIN 8
PUBLISHER Douglas Amrine
LIST MANAGER Vivien Antwi GETTING TO GREAT BRITAIN 10 Above Sandy Porthmeor Beach with St Nicholas chapel
MANAGING ART EDITOR Jane Ewart beyond it on the Island, St Ives, Cornwall
EDITORIAL Michelle Crane, Alastair PRACTICAL INFORMATION 12
Laing, Georgina Palffy, Hugh Drive 5
Thompson, Vicki Allen DRIVING IN GREAT BRITAIN 16
ART EDITORS Shahid Mahmood, A SPIRITUAL JOURNEY
Kate Leonard WHERE TO STAY 22 Salisbury to
PRODUCTION CONTROLLER
Linda Dare WHERE TO EAT 24 Glastonbury 64
PICTURE RESEARCH Ellen Root, 4 days
Rhiannon Furbear THE DRIVES 26
DTP Jason Little, Jamie McNeill
CARTOGRAPHY MANAGER Drive 1 Drive 6
Uma Bhattacharya THE VILLAGES OF THE
SENIOR CARTOGRAPHIC EDITOR LIZARD POINT AND THE SOUTH
Casper Morris COTSWOLDS
CARTOGRAPHY CORNWALL COAST
Stuart James, Schchida Nand Pradhan, Cirencester to
Zafar-ul-Islam Khan, St Ives to Tavistock 28 Broadway 74
Hassan Mohammad 4–5 days
JACKET DESIGN 2–3 days
Tessa Bindloss, Meredith Smith Drive 2
ILLUSTRATIONS Drive 7
Arun Pottirayil, Pallavi Thakur, HEADLANDS AND COVES
Dev Datta THROUGH THE CHILTERNS
Bideford to Bodmin
Printed and bound in China Chalfont St Giles to
Moor 38
First edition 2010 Henley-on-Thames 82
Published in Great Britain by Dorling Kindersley 3–4 days
Limited, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, 2 days
A Penguin Random House Company
Published in the United States by DK Drive 3
Publishing, 345 Hudson Street, New York, Drive 8
New York, 10014 NORTH DEVON COAST AND
18 19 20 21 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 EXPLORING THE SOUTH DOWNS
Reprinted with revisions 2013, 2016, 2019 EXMOOR Beachy Head to
Copyright © 2010, 2019 Dorling Taunton to Barnstaple 48 Chichester 88
Kindersley Limited, London
All rights reserved. No part of this publication 2–3 days 3–4 days
may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system,
or transmitted in any form or by any means,
electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording Drive 4 Drive 9
or otherwise, without the prior written permission
of the copyright owner. HARDY COUNTRY AND THE THE GARDEN OF ENGLAND
A CIP catalogue record is available from
the British Library. JURASSIC COAST Ashdown Forest to
A CIP catalogue record for this book is Battle 98
available from the Library of Congress. Swanage to Sherborne 56
ISBN 978 0 2413 7887 8 3 days 3–4 days
Jacket Cottages at the medieval village of
Castle Combe in Wiltshire












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Above The Circus, an elegant 18th-century terrace Above Silbury Hill, Europe’s largest Above King’s College Chapel from The
designed by John Wood, Bath prehistoric mound, Avebury Backs, Cambridge
Drive 10 Drive 14 Drive 20
THE RIVER CAM AND THROUGH SNOWDONIA WILD NORTHUMBRIA
CONSTABLE COUNTRY NATIONAL PARK Kielder Water to
Cambridge to East Machynlleth to Lindisfarne 206
Bergholt 108 Llandudno 146 2 days
3–4 days 4 days
Drive 21
Drive 11 Drive 15 HISTORY AND ROMANCE IN
THE BROADS AND THE NORTH ALONG OFFA’S DYKE THE BORDERS
NORFOLK COAST Ludlow to Holywell 158 Edinburgh to Rosslyn
Norwich to Heacham 118 4 days Chapel 212
3 days Drive 16 2–3 days

Drive 12 AROUND THE PEAK DISTRICT Drive 22
BORDERLANDS TO BEACONS Ashbourne to THE KINGDOM OF FIFE
Hereford to Matlock Bath 168 St Andrews to
Blaenavon 128 2–3 days Culross 220
3 days Drive 17 1–2 days
YORKSHIRE DALES AND ABBEYS
Drive 13 Drive 23
Harrogate to Bolton
WONDERS OF WEST WALES Abbey 176 THE WILD WEST COAST OF
Llandovery to 3 days SCOTLAND
Newport 136 Inveraray to Plockton 228
4 days Drive 18 5–6 days
NORTH YORKSHIRE MOORS AND Drive 24
COAST THE HEART OF SCOTLAND
York to Sutton Park 184 Perth to Loch Lomond 236
Below left Crescent Gardens in bloom, Harrogate, 4 days 3–4 days
North Yorkshire Below centre Road sign near
Aysgarth, Wensleydale, in the rolling green Yorkshire Drive 19 Drive 25
Dales Below right Fishing port of Whitby with St
Mary’s Church on the hill behind, North Yorkshire Coast THE POETRY OF THE LAKES ON THE HIGHLANDS WHISKY
Carlisle to Coniston 194 TRAIL
5 days Inverness to
Aberdeen 244
3–4 days

INDEX 254
Title page: Ardnamurchan Forest on the West Coast
of Scotland Half-title page: Track across fields near
St Abb’s Head in the Scottish Borders




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About this Book 7

About this Book



Away from the fast-track motorways and uniform countries – England, Wales and Scotland – each
city centres, these drives along the back roads with a distinct history and different traditions.
take you to some of the less-visited towns and The landscape ranges from hillside pastures
villages of Britain. Taken at a gentle pace, they to mountain peaks, wild coastlines and open
allow the driver time to appreciate what makes moorland. Glimpses of past cultures can be seen
Great Britain unique – the landscapes, villages, in the prehistoric standing stones and Roman
grand country houses, castles and gardens. This ruins. And the castles and villages document the
book goes beyond the must-see tourist sights emergence, over many hundreds of years, of a
to lesser-known places that will reveal a more single nation. Expect delightful surprises round
intimate experience of Britain’s people and archi- every bend, and the reward will be the timeless
tecture. This island nation encompasses three culture of Great Britain.

Getting Started map of the itinerary to help plan the
The front section of this guide gives all trip. There is useful advice on the best Using the Sheet Map
the practical information necessary to time of year to make the drive, road A pull-out road map of the
plan and enjoy a driving holiday in conditions, local markets and festivals. entire country is attached at the
Great Britain. It includes an overview The tours contain descriptions of back. This map contains all the
of when and how to get there, advice each sight, including opening times information necessary to drive
on renting vehicles or bringing one and contact details, where applicable, around the country and to
into the country. The motoring advice linked by clear driving instructions. navigate between the tours. All
ranges from driving rules to road Side panels offer information on motorways, major roads,
conditions, to buying petrol and authentic places to stay and eat. airports – both domestic and
breakdown/accident procedures – the Tinted boxes provide background international – plus all the ferry
kind of background knowledge that information and anecdotes. ports are easily identified. This
will help make a driving trip stress free. Each drive features at least one makes the pull-out map an
Tips on money, opening hours and mapped walking tour, designed to
other practical matters will save time take a maximum of three hours at excellent addition to the drive
and confusion. There is also advice on a gentle pace with stops along the itinerary maps within the book.
accommodation and dining options way. Some walks cover the highlights The pull-out map has a
from luxury hotels to farmhouse bed- of towns or cities, while others explore comprehensive index to help
and-breakfasts and gourmet meals to glorious countryside walks on safe, find the sights, and is further
pub food to allow visitors to sample clearly marked paths. supplemented by a clear
the range of British hospitality. The tours are flexible and can be distance chart so drivers can
linked to create a longer holiday; gauge the distances between
The Drives alternatively, they can be used to the major cities.
The main section of the guide is plan day trips within a region.
divided into 25 drives, which range
from two to five days in duration,
leading from the tip of Cornwall to
the north of Scotland. All tours can
be driven in a standard car or other
vehicle. No special driving skills
are required.
The drives cover every region
of the country. Each begins with an
overview of the highlights and a clear
Top left The Church of St Peter and St Paul,
Northleach Top right Cove at St Abb’s Head,
Berwickshire, Scotland Centre left Fishing boats
at Whitby Centre right Edinburgh – a famous
festival venue Below left Traditional sweetshop,
Rye Below right Field of sunflowers, Cornwall Above Driving through Langstrothdale Chase near Oughtershaw, North Yorkshire




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Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 10th November 2008
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

Introducing Great Britain 9

Introducing Great Britain



The back roads of Great Britain are a refreshing regions is waiting to be discovered. Take time
antidote to the bustle of its world-famous cities. to appreciate the landscapes, from the Scottish
Though it is possible to zoom along motorways Highlands to the Yorkshire Dales and the watery
from London to Manchester, Cardiff, Glasgow or Fens. Britain’s rural hills and fields, lined with
Edinburgh in a few hours, it’s the smaller roads stone walls and hedgerows, are quietly beautiful.
away from these urban centres that lead into The rest is stunning, from the Kent coast to the
the true heart of the country. Here, through Welsh mountains. Follow the back roads to find
castles and ruined abbeys, and mining, farming the farmers’ markets, pubs, festivals, gardens and
and fishing villages, the rich history of Britain’s wildlife that form the heart of the country.

When to Go
The itinerary for each of the drives especially the further north you go, Some traditional celebrations date
offers suggestions on the best times with dusk falling as early as 4pm. back centuries and involve clog
to visit. Some regions are known dancing, inter-village football and
for their gardens or their seasonal Climate other fun pastimes. Notable events
produce, others for outdoor activities Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Britain’s include the Hay Festival of Literature
from surfing to climbing. Festivals and climate is moderate year-round and (May), Cambridge Folk Festival (Jul),
events can make for an unforgettable seldom drops below freezing. Snow and Highland Games, held in Scottish
experience, so check with local tourist is rare, except in mountainous areas. towns Jun–Aug. Across the country,
boards and consider these when Average winter temperatures are bonfires blaze and noisy fireworks
planning your trip. The weather varies 5–10°C (40–50°F), while summers flare into the sky on Guy Fawkes’
by region. July and August generally average 18–25°C (65–77°F), although Night (5 Nov).
guarantee the hottest, sunniest they can rise to over 90°F (32°C). In
weather but, for fewer crowds, April to general, temperatures in the north are
June and September to October are a a few degrees lower than the south. Public Holidays
better bet. Summer’s other advantage Spring comes first to the southwest, New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
is the long hours of daylight, especially with gardens in Devon and Cornwall Good Friday (Fri before Easter)
in Scotland where darkness doesn’t fall budding out in February and March. Easter Monday
until 10 or 11pm. Scenery is another The western coast is usually rainier May Day Holiday (1st Mon
factor – spring can be magical with and warmer than the east. in May)
bluebells, daffodils, colourful blossom Spring Bank Holiday (last Mon
and the brightest greens. Autumn Festivals in May)
brings red and gold to the trees and Many festivals and events, in villages Summer Bank Holiday (last Mon
purple heather on the moors. Winter and market towns, centre around in Aug)
may be wetter and colder, but off- regional produce from apples to Christmas Day (25 Dec)
season rates are cheaper and most oysters to cheeses to wines. There Boxing Day (26 Dec)
attractions are open year-round. are also craft fairs, music and the arts.
Times to Avoid
As mentioned already, July and
August are the busiest times to visit –
when British schools are on summer
holiday and when the majority of
foreign tourists arrive. Prices are
also highest and traffic is heaviest,
especially around popular coastal
resorts. Throughout summer, biting
insects known as midges are common
in the western Highlands of Scotland.
November–March has the rainiest,
coldest weather and days are shorter,

Left A quiet back road through the ancient and
pristine forests of Argyll, Scotland Above The pretty market town of Ashbourne in the Derbyshire Dales




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10 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Getting to Great Britain

Great Britain is an international travel hub. Its major airports
enjoy direct transatlantic flights as well as a direct service
from most of the rest of the world. London is the western
terminus of Eurostar, the high-speed rail line from Paris,
Lille, Brussels and Amsterdam, while other rail services
connect with ferries across the English Channel and Irish
Sea. Ferry services link Britain to Europe and Ireland, and
the Channel Tunnel provides road access from Europe via
Calais, France. There is also a low-cost coach service from Above Colourful flower displays at Dovedale, in
Europe with Eurolines. the Derbyshire Peak District

Arriving by Air all domestic as well as some European
DIRECTORY Great Britain is served by most and long-haul flights go through
international airlines. Its own major Terminal 1. London Underground
ARRIVING BY AIR carriers, British Airways and Virgin trains and the Heathrow Express train
British Airways Atlantic, have direct flights from connect the airport to the city centre.
0844 493 0 787 (UK); cities worldwide. In addition to the Gatwick has two terminals. The
www.britishairways.com
full service airlines, budget carriers North Terminal serves British Airways
EasyJet such as EasyJet and Ryanair fly from and charter flights, while the South
0330 365 5000 (calls cost 65p per minute;
calls from mobiles and other networks Ireland and continental Europe to Terminal is home to around 50 airlines.
may cost more); www.easyjet.com London, Glasgow and regional The Gatwick Express to Victoria Station
airports throughout the country, is the fastest way into the city centre.
Gatwick Airport
www.gatwickairport.com often with several flights a day in Luton Airport, 48 km (30 miles)
peak season. From the United States north of London, and Stansted Airport,
Glasgow Airport
www.glasgowairport.com and Canada, there are direct flights 56 km (35 miles) northeast, have many
to London, Glasgow and Manchester flights to/from Ireland, Europe and
Heathrow Airport from major cities on international beyond, on full service and budget
www.heathrow.com
carriers, with internal connections to airlines. Both have good connections
London City Airport regional airports. From Australia and to central London. London City Airport
www.londoncityairport.com New Zealand there are connecting in East London serves domestic and
Luton Airport flights via Bangkok and Singapore. European destinations.
www.london-luton.co.uk London is served by five airports. Glasgow International Airport, is
Manchester Airport Most long-haul international flights 13 km (8 miles) from the city centre,
www.manchesterairport.co.uk arrive at Heathrow, 24 km (15 miles) and Manchester International Airport,
Ryanair west of the city centre, or Gatwick, 16 km (10 miles) south of its city,
0871 246 0000 (UK: calls cost 10p per 43 km (27 miles) to the south. also handle international flights.
minute); 0818 30 30 30 (Ireland: calls Heathrow is Britain’s largest airport, Bristol, Cardiff, Birmingham, Liverpool,
cost national rate); www.ryanair.com serving around 90 airlines and the Newcastle and Edinburgh are among
Stansted Airport newest, Terminal 5, is dedicated to Britain’s many regional airports.
www.stanstedairport.com British Airways. Most other long-haul Flight times to London are: Paris
Virgin Atlantic and many European flights arrive at 1 hour, Dublin 1¼ hours, Montreal
0344 874 7747; www.virginatlantic.com Terminals 3 and 4. Terminal 2 deals 7 hours, New York 6½ hours, Los
with mainly European flights, while Angeles 10 hours, Sydney 21½ hours.


















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Getting to Great Britain 11

DIRECTORY
Arriving by Sea Pembroke in South Wales (4 hours),
The easiest way to compare the while Stena Line has daily 2-hour ARRIVING BY SEA
many services, routes and prices crossings from Rosslare to Fishguard. Brittany Ferries
for ferry services is online at www. 03301 597 000 (UK); 08 25 82 88 28
directferries.co.uk. Arriving by Rail (France); www.brittany-ferries.co.uk
From France: P&O Ferries has Eurostar is the fastest and easiest Condor Ferries
frequent crossings between Calais way into Great Britain from Europe 08456 091 024 (UK); 08 25 13 51 35
and Dover (travel time 1½ hours). by rail. This high-speed train travels (France); www.condorferries.co.uk
DFDS Seaways also has daily sailings through the 52-km (31-mile) Direct Ferries
linking Calais and Dunkirk with Channel Tunnel. Passengers board www.directferries.co.uk
Dover; it also operates a service at Amsterdam, Brussels, Paris, Lille DFDS Seaways
between Dieppe and Newhaven. or Calais and travel to Ashford in 08715 747 235; +44 (0)20 8127 8303
Brittany Ferries operates services Kent, Ebbsfleet International or (from outside the UK);
from several destinations in France London’s St Pancras Station. The www.dfdsseaways.co.uk
to Portsmouth, Poole and Plymouth, journey from Paris to London can Irish Ferries
while Condor Ferries has one service be as little as 2¼ hours. Direct trains 0818 300 400; www.irishferries.com
between St Malo and Poole. also run from Marseille, Avignon P&O Ferries
From the rest of Europe: P&O and Lyon to London. From London, 01304 448 888 (UK); 08 25 12 01 56
Ferries serves Great Britain from there are train connections to all (France); www.poferries.com
Belgium, Netherlands and Ireland, parts of the country through the Stena Line
while DFDS Seaways has crossings British Rail network. 08447 70 70 70; www.stenaline.co.uk
between Amsterdam and Newcastle. If travelling by rail from Ireland,
Stena Line has daily crossings from there are combined train and ferry ARRIVING BY RAIL
the Hook of Holland to Harwich (6¼ tickets direct to most destinations Eurostar (railway)
hours). P&O Ferries sails overnight in Britain. For information contact 03432 186 186 (UK); +44 (0)1233
617 575 (from outside the UK);
from Zeebrugge in Belgium (13½ Irish Rail. www.eurostar.com
hours), and also from Rotterdam,
Netherlands (11 hours) to Hull. Arriving by Road Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann)
1850 366 222 (Ireland);
Brittany Ferries has overnight Cars can also be taken through the 353 (0)1 836 6222 (from outside
crossings from Santander in Spain to Channel Tunnel on the Eurotunnel Ireland); www.irishrail.ie
Plymouth (18 hours) or Portsmouth rail shuttle, which runs between ARRIVING BY ROAD
(24 hours), as well as a service that Sangatte near Calais and Folkestone
runs between Bilbao and Portsmouth in Kent. Travel time is 35 minutes Eurolines
08717 818 178 (UK);
(24 hours). and passengers remain with their www.eurolines.de/en/home
From Ireland: Stena Line crosses car. LPG-powered vehicles are
between Belfast and Liverpool not permitted. The terminals link Eurotunnel
08443 35 35 35 (UK); 0810 63 03 04
(8 hours) and from Belfast to to the A16 motorway in France (France); www.eurotunnel.com
Cairnryan in southwest Scotland and the M20 in England.
(2¼ hours). P&O operates services Eurolines provides long-distance
from Larne, just north of Belfast, coach (bus) service to Britain from
to Cairnryan (1 hour) as well as cities across Ireland and Europe.
crossings between Dublin and Journey times can be long, but the
Liverpool (7 hours). Irish Ferries fares are relatively inexpensive.
runs 2-hour crossings from Dublin
to Holyhead in North Wales, as Below left Departure lounge at Gatwick airport
does Stena Line from Dublin. Irish Below centre Ferry terminal, Dover Harbour
Ferries crosses from Rosslare to Below right Boeing 747, Heathrow Airport


















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12 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Practical Information

Travelling in Great Britain is easy, thanks to its generally up-to-date
infrastructure. Public services usually operate smoothly and its
health care system is among the best in the world. Police and
security services may appear low-key, but they are highly trained
to deal effectively with any emergency. Communication networks
from broadband and Wi-Fi to mobile phone services are usually
good, and most banks have ATM machines for out-of-hours use. Above Easily identifiable green pharmacy
In smaller towns and villages, shops are often closed on Sundays. sign displayed outside a chemist’s shop
Passports and Visas and Commonwealth Office in the UK, Health
Nationals of European Union countries the State Department in the US and Currently no vaccinations or
and Switzerland, Iceland, Norway and the Department of Foreign Affairs immunization documents are
Liechtenstein may enter Great Britain and Trade in Australia. required to enter Great Britain
with a passport or national identity card. unless travelling from a country
Irish citizens do not need a passport or Travel Insurance where infectious diseases such
visa if they are entering from Ireland. All travellers are strongly advised as yellow fever are present.
However, it is generally advisable to take out comprehensive travel There are no undue health hazards
to always have a valid form of photo insurance. In addition to medical in Great Britain. Tap water is safe to
identification handy, as most airlines insurance (see below), a full policy drink and bottled water is available.
and ferry compa nies will require either will normally cover travellers for loss In summer, the Highlands of Scotland
a passport or driving licence. If you or theft of luggage and belongings, are plagued with tiny biting flies called
don’t have a pass port, check to see if personal accident, damage to a third midges, so buy some strong insect
an alternative form of ID is acceptable. party, delayed or cancelled flights, repellent if planning to hike or camp.
All other visitors must have a passport, and in some cases the cancellation Standard over-the-counter remedies
ideally with at least six months validity of your trip due to personal illness or can be bought in local pharmacies
remaining to avoid problems at entry. that of a family member. Most policies or chemists, but make sure to bring
Travellers from the United States, also cover some legal costs. A standard enough prescription medication from
Canada, Australia, New Zealand and travel policy will not cover hazardous home to last the trip, otherwise it will
South Africa do not need a visa if they sports, so anyone planning to go take a visit to a doctor to obtain a
are staying for less than six months. surfing, skiing or rock-climbing must prescription. Pack them in carry-on
For longer stays, or for student or check their cover; it can usually be luggage with their original labels to
working visas, apply well in advance. added for a small premium. avoid problems at airport security.
Other nationalities may require Read the terms to see what the In the unlikely event of an illness
a visa, and visitors should contact excess is, and what cover is on while travelling, the hotel staff should
the British Embassy, Consulate or valuable items such as cameras be able to locate a doctor or dentist.
High Commission in their home and jewellery. In the event of a medical emergency,
country prior to travelling. Check Check to see what cover, if any, dial 999. NHS 111 provides round-the-
on the website of the Foreign and is offered under a home insurance clock medical advice by phone and
Commonwealth Office for details. policy. Some credit card companies has walk-in centres in many cities and
offer limited travel insurance if the card larger towns. Most pharmacies – look
Travel Safety Advice is used to book the trip or rental car. for a green cross – are open Mon–Sat
Visitors can get up-to-date travel But these are often not as good as during regular business hours. If they
safety information from the Foreign specialist travel policies. are closed there is often a sign in the




















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Practical Information 13












Above left Policemen assisting visitors Above centre European Union passports Above right British community support officers, on patrol at a train station

DIRECTORY
window advising of the nearest areas where visitors are unlikely
all-night chemist. Pharmacists are to go, they should take the same PASSPORTS AND VISAS
highly trained, too, and can usually precautions against petty crime
advise on minor medical matters. as they would in any large town. American Embassy
33 Nine Elms Lane, London SW11 7US;
Visitors from Ireland and other EU Areas where there is a high volume 020 7499 9000; www.usembassy.gov
countries are covered for medical of tourists are frequently targeted Australian High Commission
treatment in Great Britain under the by petty thieves. Leave passports, Australia House, The Strand,
EU’s social security regulations, but jewellery and valuables in the hotel London WC2; 020 7379 4334;
they must see an NHS (National safe, if possible. Keep an eye on www.uk.embassy.gov.au
Health Service) doctor. To be eligible, handbags and wallets, particularly in British Foreign and
they will need identification and a crowds and on public transport, and Commonwealth Office
European Health Insurance Card don’t carry large amounts of cash 020 7008 1500; www.gov.uk
(EHIC), which has replaced the old around. Never leave bags, cameras Canadian High Commission
E111 form. Otherwise visitors will be or luggage unattended, or visible in Canada House, Trafalgar Square,
liable for NHS charges. Obtain the card cars, even if locked. If it’s not possible London, SW1; 020 7004 6000;
at home before travelling to the UK. to take them with you, it’s best to put www.canadainternational.gc.ca
Note that the situation may change items in the car boot before arriving Irish Embassy
when the UK leaves the EU in 2019, at an attraction, as car parks are 17 Grosvenor Place, London SW1;
so you should check before travelling. sometimes watched by thieves. 020 7235 2171;
www.ireland.embassyhomepage.com
Visitors from all other countries British police and community
are strongly advised to have private support officers are generally help- TRAVEL SAFETY ADVICE
medical insurance, as they will only be ful. Street officers wear dark blue Australia
eligible for free emergency treatment. uniforms (and often the famous www.dfat.gov.au; smartraveller.gov.au
Without insurance, they will have to domed hat), but do not usually United Kingdom
pay for follow-up care, doctor’s visits, carry firearms. If you are a victim www.gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice
medication, etc. Check home health of crime, contact the police who United States of America
insurance plans for cover when can also provide victim support. To www.travel.state.gov
abroad. But travel insurance with telephone the Emergency Services –
medical coverage is a simple option. police, fire, or ambulance – dial 999. HEALTH
NHS 111
Personal Security Below left Pedestrian road crossing, known 111; www.nhs.uk
Great Britain is a relatively safe as a zebra crossing Below centre Emergency EHIC
country. Although most serious ambulance Below right Busy scene at www.nhs.uk/ehic
crime takes place in inner-city Barnstaple’s Pannier Market PERSONAL SECURITY
Emergency Services
For Police, Fire or Ambulance, dial 999


















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14 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Telephone System charges will be. Great Britain is part of
Telephone service is provided by the GSM system – US phones need to
British Telecom (BT). Phone numbers be tri-band or quad-band and have
in Great Britain have an area code of international roaming activated to
four or five digits beginning with “0”, operate here. Check with your supplier
followed by a local number. When before leaving. If you plan to make a
dialling within the country, use the full lot of calls, consider buying a cheap
area code. When dialling from abroad, “pay-as-you-go” mobile in the UK.
drop the initial 0. When calling within Above Foreign newspapers for sale on a
the same area code on a landline, you Internet and Mail Services newspaper stand
only need to dial the local number. Most hotels and guesthouses have
To call Great Britain from abroad: internet access, while nearly all coffee Passports – a prepaid currency card.
first dial your country’s international shops and restaurants have Wi-Fi. These can be loaded with money
access code, followed by the country Moreover, you will find Wi-Fi in an before travelling and used in shops
code for Britain (44), and the local area increasing number of public areas. and ATMs abroad. They are available
code (minus the initial 0), and number. The national postal system is Royal from Thomas Cook, Travelex and
Public pay phones take either Mail. In addition to main post offices, various banks. Most airports have
coins or phonecards. These are the there are sub-post offices in shops foreign exchange counters, but it is
cheapest way to make calls and you and newsagents throughout the easier to use a debit or credit card to
can buy cards at newsagents country, where you can send withdraw cash from one of the many
and post offices in various packages as well as letters ATMs or “cashpoints” around. Check
amounts. International and cards. You can also with your bank or card provider what
phonecards can be an buy stamps at many they will charge you for using your
even cheaper way to call newsagents. First-class card abroad. Cirrus and PLUS are
abroad. Making calls from mail within the country widely used in Britain.
your hotel room is generally takes 1–2 days. Allow 3–10 Major credit cards including Visa,
expensive, as most hotels Symbol for a Tourist days for international air Mastercard and American Express are
add a surcharge. Check Information Point mail, depending on the accepted at most hotels, restaurants,
charges at the reception final destination. Post boxes shops and petrol stations, but you
before using the phone. are painted red. may need cash in some pubs, small
Peak period is Mon–Fri 7am–7pm. shops, guesthouses and B&Bs. Credit
Both local and international calls are Banks and Money card companies are increasingly
cheaper after 7pm and at weekends. Sterling is the currency in Great Britain. vigilant against fraud, so it is wise to
There is a charge for using Directory One pound is divided into 100 pence. let them know you will be using the
Enquiries, but you can look numbers There are £5, £10, £20, £50 and £100 card abroad, so that they don’t put a
up for free on the Internet. Calls to notes, and 1p, 2p, 5p, 10p, 20p, 50p, block on its use. It is also a good idea
mobile phones are more expensive. £1 and £2 coins. Scotland issues its to carry a different card for back-up.
Numbers beginning with 0845 are own bank notes, which are usable in Great Britain uses the chip-and-pin
charged at a local rate and 0870 at England. But some shops south of the system, which requires the purchaser
national rate. 0800 and 0808 numbers border won’t accept them, so it’s best to enter the card’s pin number rather
are toll-free. Avoid numbers beginning to ask for change in English notes if than a signature. An increasing
with an 09 prefix – these cost up to you’re nearing the end of your stay. number of places now also use a
£1.50 per minute. Traveller’s cheques are a safe way no contact system, though for this
Mobile phones are convenient but to carry money abroad, but they method of payment there is often a
it’s worth finding out what the roaming have been largely replaced by Cash set maximum amount per transaction.





















014-015_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 14 20/07/18 7:44 PM

Practical Information 15











Above left Logo of the National Trust for Scotland Above centre An ATM or cashpoint showing the different cards accepted Above right Old clock face, Cambridge

DIRECTORY
Tourist Information Saturdays. Post offices are open
Visit Britain is the national tourism weekdays from 9am to 5.30pm TELEPHONE SYSTEM
authority and its website has a wealth and Saturdays from 9am to International Access Codes
of information including destination 12.30pm or later. Small sub-post Australia: 0011; New Zealand 0170;
guides, maps, and an accommo- offices may close for lunch or on Ireland: 00; US and Canada: 011
dation booking service. The websites Wednesday afternoons. Country Codes
Visit England, Visit Scotland and Australia: 61; New Zealand 64; Ireland
Visit Wales offer similar visitor Disabled Facilities 353; US and Canada: 1
information. There are also local Many visitor attractions are accessible Directory Enquiries
tourist information centres (TIC) in to wheelchair users, and a growing 118 500 (BT), www.bt.com; for business
most towns and tourist areas that number of hotels and restaurants numbers, www.yell.com
serve drop-in visitors; hours vary and also provide facilities for guests with International Directory Assistance
some are only open seasonally – look disabilities. The Holiday Care Service 118 505 (BT)
out for the tourist information symbol. helps disabled and older travellers
You’ll also find links and contact details and can offer advice and information. INTERNET AND MAIL SERVICES
on the main websites. For castles, Royal Mail
stately homes and gardens, contact Time and Electricty www.royalmail.com
English Heritage, The National Trust Great Britain is on Greenwich Mean BANKS AND MONEY
and the National Trust for Scotland. Time (GMT). The clocks are put Thomas Cook
forward one hour during Summer www.thomascook.com
Opening Hours (Daylight Saving) Time, from mid- Travelex
Normal business hours are Mon–Fri 9 March to the end of October. www.travelex.co.uk
or 9.30am to 5.30 or 6pm. Shops open Britain’s electric current is 220–240
on Saturdays too and some have late- volts AC (50 cycles). Plugs have 3 pins. TOURIST INFORMATION
night shopping until 8 or 9pm on Many visitors will need a transformer Visit Britain
Thursdays. Supermarkets stay open and a plug adaptor to operate www.visitbritain.org
later, and some are open 24 hours. appliances from abroad. You can buy Visit England
Sunday trading hours, limited by law, them at airports and electrical shops. 020 8846 9000;
www.visitengland.com
are generally 11am or noon to 4 or
5pm; in smaller places shops do not Below far left Old-fashioned telephone boxes Visit Scotland
open on Sundays. Below left Shopping street reflected in a shop 0845 859 1006;
www.visitscotland.com
Banks are open Monday to Friday window selling tourist souvenirs Below centre
9.30am–4.30pm. Larger branches A traditional wall-mounted postbox Below right Visit Wales
have longer hours and may open on One of York’s narrow shopping streets 0333 006 3001; www.visitwales.com
English Heritage
0370 333 1181;
www.english-heritage.org.uk
The National Trust
0844 800 1895;
www.nationaltrust.org.uk
The National Trust for Scotland
0131 458 0200; www.nts.org.uk
DISABLED FACILITIES
Holiday Care Service
0845 124 9971; www.holidaycare.org.uk








014-015_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 15 20/07/18 7:44 PM

16 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Driving in Great Britain

It’s easy to travel the length and breadth of the country on Great
Britain’s major roads. Although many of these are scenic, running
through beautiful countryside, the most memorable views are to
be found off the beaten track. Driving along single-track roads in
the Scottish Highlands, down the winding lanes of rural England
and across the mountains of Wales, reveals many more facets of
this diverse country. To make the most of your trip, it’s best to learn Above Typical B-road sign, pointing to villages
the basics of driving in Great Britain before setting off. and indicating the distance
Insurance and Breakdown photograph, do carry your passport areas, may offer some of the most
Cover or other form of official photo ID. rewarding and enjoyable driving.
Third-party motor insurance is If you are bringing your own vehicle, There is currently only one toll
compulsory in Great Britain, with a or caravan or motorcycle, bring road in Britain, the M6 Bypass at
minimum cover level of £1,000,000. the vehicle registration. If it is not Birmingham, with tolls also being
If you bring your own car to Britain, registered in your name, bring a letter charged on the Dartford River
you must have an insurance certificate of authorization from the owner. Crossing and the Humber Bridge. If
that is valid in this country. You do not Great Britain does not yet you have to drive into central London,
need a green card if you are an EU require that you carry the visibility you will have to pay the Congestion
national, but you should check with vests that are compulsory in many Charge (currently £11.50 per day).
your insurer before travelling to make EU countries, though this may soon Information on how to pay is posted
sure you are covered on the trip. Most change. While it’s not compulsory on the Transport for London website.
companies give you automatic to carry a first aid kit, it is a good Similar schemes are being considered
coverage in EU countries for up to idea. A warning triangle, torch in other cities and on busy roadways
90 days. Citizens of other countries (flashlight) and petrol container to help reduce the volume of traffic.
will need green card insurance. If your are also recommended.
policy has breakdown cover, check Speed Limits and Fines
if it applies abroad. If not, it is worth Road Systems Speed limits are given in miles per
purchasing additional breakdown and Main roads in Great Britain are hour throughout the country. Unless
accident cover. Motoring organizations classified in three categories. otherwise posted, the speed limits are
such as the AA and RAC (see p18) may Motorways have the prefix “M”. In 70 mph (112 kph) on motorways and
also provide assistance. theory they are the fastest way of dual carriageways, 60 mph (96 kph)
driving long distances, but traffic on single carriageways, and 30 mph
What to Take jams are common around large cities (48 kph) in towns and built-up areas.
In order to drive in Great Britain, you such as London and Birmingham Police cannot make on-the-spot
must have a valid driving licence and you may experience long delays. fines for speeding violations in Great
issued in your home country, or an Primary roads are indicated by the Britain. Speed cameras, however, are
International Driving Permit. Drivers prefix “A” and may be either single- widely used; fines are automatic and
whose documents are not in English or dual-carriageway. “B” roads, or tickets are sent to the address of the
should bring an official translation secondary roads, are usually single- vehicle’s registration. You won’t escape
from their embassy or internationally carriageway (one lane in each the penalty by driving a rental car. The
recognised motoring association. direction). These, along with the car hire company will bill you for the
If your licence does not have a smaller, unclassified roads in rural ticket, along with an administration





















016-017_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 16 20/07/18 7:44 PM

Driving in Great Britain 17












Above left Narrow Cornish street during the busy summer period Above right The only toll motorway in Great Britain, the M6 bypass at Birmingham

DIRECTORY
fee. Speed camera detectors are mobile phone while driving is illegal
illegal and will be confiscated. and carries a fine and penalties. ROAD SYSTEM
Do not drink and drive. The Pedestrian crossings, often called
laws are very strict and penalties zebra crossings, are marked by white London Congestion Charge
www.tfl.gov.uk
are high. The legal limit is 80mg per striped lines across the road. Many have
100ml of blood (50mg per 100ml orange lights at either end to make SOME WELSH ROAD SIGNS
in Scotland) – about equal to a pint them more visible at night. Drivers Araf Slow
of strong beer. Police are authorized must yield to pedestrians if they step Arafwch Nawr Reduce Speed Now
to administer a breathalyser test or out into a zebra crossing and also at Bwsiau yn unig Buses only
a blood test at any time, and you can crossings when the “green man” is Canol y dref City centre
be prosecuted if you don’t agree to flashing, signalling it is safe to cross. Cerddwyr ymlaen Pedestrians ahead
take one or the other. Buy a copy of the British Highway Code Dim Mynediad No Entry
from newsagents and petrol stations. Dim o gwbl At any time
Rules of the Road Please note that some signs in Gyrrwch yn ofalus Please drive
Driving is on the left in Great Britain. Wales may be in Welsh (see right). carefully
Most visitors get used to it quickly, Ildiwch Give Way
but pay extra attention at crossroads Buying Petrol Un Ffordd One Way
and roundabouts, where it is easy (and There are petrol stations all over Great Ramp o’ch blaen Ramp ahead
dangerous) to forget or get confused. Britain, and unleaded petrol as well as Rhybudd Warning
Always turn left into a roundabout, diesel is widely available – if hiring a
and give way (yield) to traffic already car, find out which type of fuel it uses.
on the roundabout and approaching Most petrol stations are self service
from the right. Drive clockwise, staying and nearly all take major credit cards.
in the right hand lane until you are Many stations on motorways are open
approaching your left-hand exit. 24 hours. In remote areas, opening
Overtake on the right. Do not hours are shorter and some may be
overtake if there is a continuous white closed on Sunday. Below far left Multiple signage entering
line in the centre of the road. At a Petrol is sold by the litre and is a popular Cotswolds town Below left Self
junction where no road has priority, expensive because it is highly taxed. service at a petrol station Below centre Road
yield to traffic coming from your right. Supermarket petrol stations, on the winding through the dramatic Cheddar Gorge
Seat belts must be worn at all times, outskirts of larger towns, are among Below centre right A steep descent sign
by the driver and all passengers, front the cheapest places to fill up your on the B6270 Below right Single-lane road
seat and back. Using a hand-held tank, motorways the most expensive. over a small bridge in the countryside





















016-017_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 17 20/07/18 7:44 PM

18 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN












Above left A warning road sign Above centre A pay-and-display parking ticket machine Above right Parking along the roadside in a Cotswolds village

Road Conditions It is easier for a car to reverse than of a motorway. It is dangerous to walk
Most roads in Great Britain are well farm machinery or large vehicles. along any motorway, so take care
surfaced and maintained. Distances are Always give drivers who make way when getting out of your car.
given in miles, and roads are usually for you a friendly wave. Car rental companies will normally
well marked. Many parts of the country give you a number to call in case of
suffer from traffic congestion, not only Taking a Break breakdown or problems with the
in and around the major cities but If you are feeling tired or lost, it’s a vehicle. They will advise or arrange for
also in parts of the country popular good idea to pull over and take a assistance, and can usually provide a
for holidays and weekend breaks. break. Many roads have signposted replacement vehicle. You should not
Traffic to the West Country (Dorset, areas where you can pull off and undertake any repairs to a hire car
Devon and Cornwall) in summer can stretch your legs, have a snack without the company’s permission. If
be maddeningly slow. Many people and consult your map. The scenery you belong to a motoring association
make an early getaway on Bank can be a distraction, so if you find it in your country, the UK motoring ser-
Holiday weekends, resulting in busy hard to keep your eyes on the road, vices – Automobile Association (AA)
roads from Thursday evening through it’s best to stop and admire the view. and Royal Automobile Club (RAC) –
to Monday night. Rainy weather can Parks and areas with nature trails also may have a reciprocal arrangement of
also slow things down. Get up-to-date make good picnic stops. Motorway co-operation – check before leaving.
reports on traffic conditions online service stations are generally well sign- If you have an accident you must
or by phone from the Met Office, posted along the route. They have stop and exchange name, address
Highways Agency or AA Roadwatch. coffee bars, sit-down restaurants, fast and car registration details with the
In the Highlands of Scotland and in food, snacks, toilets, shops and other other parties involved. Police must be
some other rural areas, the roads are public facilities as well as petrol sta- notified within 24 hours if anyone is
single-track. Slow down for sheep, tions. On the A and B roads, services injured, and a report will be filed. Call
cattle and other animals who may run are smaller and public toilets are often the emergency services (see p13) if
out in front of your car. These roads found in petrol stations or restaurants. there are serious injuries. Be sure to
are often so narrow that one car will get the insurance details of the other
have to pull over to the side to let an Breakdown and Accident driver, and give them yours. You must
oncoming car pass. Courtesy dictates Procedures also notify your car rental company as
that the car closest to a wide spot If you have car trouble, try to park soon as possible.
waits. There are designated passing safely and turn on your hazard lights Circumstances can be confusing
places along these roads. When you or put out a warning triangle to alert at the time of an accident, so don’t
meet oncoming vehicles, always pull other drivers. There are SOS telephones admit fault for the accident, accept
in to the closest one on your left. You at regular intervals along the hard liability or give money to any party. If
may need to reverse to find a space. shoulder (spare lane on the far left) possible, take down any details from




















018-019_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 18 20/07/18 7:44 PM

Driving in Great Britain 19












Above left Traditional signpost and brown tourist sign in the Avon Valley Above right Old stone cottages in West Witton, Yorkshire Dales

DIRECTORY
independent witnesses. It’s also a garages such as NCP; these may be
good idea to take photographs of the more expensive, but you don’t have ROAD CONDITIONS
vehicles and the accident scene. to worry about the time as you pay
for your stay when you leave. Met Office
0370 900 0100; www.metoffice.gov.uk
Parking It is often possible to park on
Finding a place to park is one of the the street, but read the signs along the Highways Agency
0300 123 5000;
most frustrating aspects of driving in pavement carefully. Many streets have www.highways.gov.uk/traffic
Great Britain. Parking is prohibited at residents’ parking only, with visitors
all times on a double yellow line. A restricted to particular hours and/or AA Roadwatch
84322 (“The AA”) (from mobile phones);
single yellow line means no parking parking vouchers – if you are visiting 0906 888 4322 (from landlines);
during business hours – these will someone who lives there, they may www.theaa.com/traffic-news
be displayed on a sign nearby. Signs have a voucher for you. Others are BREAKDOWN AND ACCIDENT
with a red “P” in a circle crossed by pay-and-display, with the meter PROCEDURE
a diagonal line also indicate a no- somewhere along the pavement.
parking zone. A red line is a clearway In many rural towns and villages, Automobile Association (AA)
08457 887 766; www.theaa.com
and you cannot stop at all. Don’t be there is little room for parking in
tempted to flout the rules and park the centre, but there are car parks, Royal Automobile Club (RAC)
illegally, even for a few minutes. usually free, at the edge of town. In 0800 197 7815; www.rac.co.uk
Traffic wardens are eager to write the countryside, be sure not to block
expensive tickets. Wheel-clamping farmers’ gates or private roads if you
and towing companies are even are walking or exploring. On single-
more predatory and expensive. lane roads, never park in passing
Park in designated car parks, which places as this is a traffic hazard.
will be indicated by a blue sign with
a white “P”. These are often pay-and- Maps
display – obtain a ticket from a Free tourist maps are widely available,
nearby machine and display it on but they are seldom useful for back- Below far left Farmer’s sign reminding drivers
your windscreen (windshield). Disc roads driving. It’s well worth buying to close the gate through grazing land near Oban,
parking is another system used in an up-to-date road atlas for more Scotland Below left Prices outside a petrol station
many towns, whereby you must buy detailed coverage. There are several in Birmingham Below centre Narrow country
a scratch card from nearby shops good ones published by Michelin, road between Cirencester and Chedworth in
and scratch off the date and time the AA, and A–Z. Buy them at petrol Gloucestershire Below right Horse riders on a
before displaying it in your car. stations, bookshops, newsagents quiet lane flanked by hedgerows near Lower
In larger cities there are parking and tourist information centres. Slaughter in the Cotswolds




















018-019_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 19 20/07/18 7:44 PM

20 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Caravans and Motorhomes
Caravans and motorhomes (RVs)
are subject to the same rules of
the road as other vehicles. However,
camper vans or cars towing caravans
are restricted to speeds of 50 mph
(80 kph) on regular roads and
60 mph (96 kph) on motorways.
Many of Britain’s back-country roads,
particularly in remote parts of Above An estate car driving into a camp site just outside Brecon in Powys, Wales, towing a caravan
Scotland, are narrow and winding
and not suitable for caravans, motor-
homes or towed vehicles. Signs are you hold a provisional licence; rear seats in an estate car or other
often posted, but they are easy to you must have a full licence and vehicle unless a special child seat has
miss. Ask locally about the conditions an insurance policy that allows you been fitted. Remember to request any
before setting out on these roads. to do so. Motorcycles must have necessary child seats in advance when
Narrow bridges, sharp bends, and rear number plate lighting. Dipped making your car hire booking.
steep gradients can be dangerous headlights during the day are not
for large vehicles, so pay attention required, but they are recommended Disabled Drivers
to road warning signs. to make you more visible. Drivers with disabilities should contact
If you are bringing your own The rules of the road are the same Disabled Motoring UK, a charity that
caravan to Britain, you must be sure for motorcyclists as for other drivers, promotes mobility and represents the
that your LPG gas has been turned off though you should take additional interests of disabled drivers, for advice
correctly for the ferry crossing. With safety precautions. Go slow when on obtaining a UK blue badge for
Eurotunnel, the valves must be sealed filtering or driving between traffic disabled parking spaces or using their
and your roof vents opened for safety. lanes. Give other vehicles a wide berth Disabled Parking cards in the UK. If you
You can also hire motorhomes when overtaking them, and be aware are bringing your own car through
and touring caravans. Some, such they might not always see you. Ireland first, you may be able to get a
as those available from Just Go, discount from the ferry company on
come with XBox 360, DVD/CD Driving with Children some sailings. Contact your motoring
players and other creature comforts. Drivers must ensure that all children association (or the Disabled Drivers’
Motorhomes Direct has a huge under the age of 14 wear seat-belts or Association in Ireland) for a form.
selection of luxury models for hire sit in an approved child restraint, if
nationwide. There is a wide network required. Older teenagers must wear Car Hire
of camping and caravan parks. For adult seat-belts. If a child is under Most of the big international car
online directories try Camping and 1.35 m (approximately 4 ft 5 in) tall, a hire companies, such as Budget,
Caravanning UK and UK Caravan baby seat, child seat, booster seat or Avis and Hertz, have locations at
Parks and Campsites Directory. booster cushion suitable for the child’s airports and ferry ports and in all the
height and weight must be used. The larger cities, and offer a wide range of
Motorbikes correct child restraint must be used in vehicles. A good local firm with offices
All motorcyclists and passengers both the front and back seats. Babies in Scotland and Northern England is
must wear protective helmets. must never be placed in a rear-facing Arnold Clark Car and Van Rental. To
Drivers must have a valid driving child seat in the passenger seat if there rent a car you will need a valid driving
licence to cover a motorcycle or is an active airbag fitted, as it can cause licence and a credit card. Normally,
moped and an insurance policy. serious injury or death to the child in a drivers must be between the ages of
You may not carry a passenger if crash. Children must not sit behind the 21 or 23 and 75, but check before




















020-021_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 20 20/07/18 7:47 PM

Driving in Great Britain 21












Above left Sign for a guesthouse in Bude, Cornwall Above right Camp site in a field in Dorset, tucked away behind the trees


you make your reservation regarding Driving in Bad Weather DIRECTORY
their age restrictions. It’s highly When conditions reduce light levels, CARAVAN AND MOTORHOMES
recommended that you book in dipped headlights should be used.
advance, especially during peak Turn on fog lights whenever visibility Camping and Caravanning UK
season – you will often get a better is less than 100 m (328 ft). If you bring http://camping.uk-directory.com
rate. Rental rates usually include a left-hand drive vehicle with you, Just Go
unlimited mileage, but double check. adjust the headlights. Buy beam 01525 878 000; www.justgo.uk.com
Most rental cars in Great Britain are adjusters at ferry terminals, or check Motorhomes Direct
standard (manual) shift. Automatic with your motoring organization. 0800 612 8719;
cars are available but they cost more Always reduce speed in adverse www.motorhomefreedom.com
and must be booked in advance. conditions, as you will need a greater
Consider renting a smaller car than braking distance, and poor visibility UK Caravan Parks and Campsites
you may be used to at home, as they gives less time to react. In Scotland Directory
are much easier to handle on narrow and other mountainous areas, you www.uk-sites.com
country roads than big SUVs. If you may encounter ice and snow in winter. DISABLED DRIVERS
need a child seat, these should be Slow down, especially for curves and Disabled Drivers’ Association
booked in advance as well. turns, and make your actions steady +353 (0) 94 936 4054; www.ddai.ie
Third-party insurance is compulsory and deliberate to avoid sliding out of
and is included in the rate. Some control. If you find the car skidding, Disabled Motoring UK
rental agreements also include take your foot off the accelerator – do 01508 489 449;
Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) not brake – and turn the wheel into www.disabledmotoring.org
which limits your liability for damages the skid until the car corrects itself. CAR HIRE
to the rental car, theft loss cover and Watch out for “black ice”, especially on Arnold Clark Car and Van Rental
personal injury insurance; others bridges and overpasses which freeze 0141 237 4374; www.arnoldclarkrental.
charge additional fees for these items. up first. If you hit a patch, do not com
Be sure to read your agreement brake or turn the wheel, but keep as
carefully so that you fully understand straight as possible and coast over it. Avis
what your coverage and liabilities are. 0808 284 0014; www.avis.co.uk
Some drivers may be able to use Below far left Signs on the Kennet and Avon Budget
insurance from a personal credit card Canal Below left Pay-and-display ticket machine, 0808 284 4444; www.budget.co.uk
to claim CDW, but check carefully Penwith, Cornwall Below centre Old-fashioned Hertz
with your card company to make sure road sign at Lacock in the Cotswolds Below right 08708 44 88 44; www.hertz.co.uk
they cover your trip abroad and be Sheep by the roadside in Ashdown Forest, the
prepared to show proof of cover. home of Winnie the Pooh, Sussex




















020-021_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 21 20/07/18 7:47 PM

22 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Where to Stay

The picturesque views seen while driving the back roads of Great
Britain will perhaps raise the question: what would it be like to live
here? The accommodation in each of the driving tours has been
selected to give a taste of life in this varied country, whether it be
a cosy bed and breakfast in the Scottish Highlands, a boutique
hotel on the Cornish coast or even an ancient castle. There is also a
range of luxury golf and spa resorts, and camp sites with heavenly Above Doorway to cottage accommodation with
views from forests to mountains to seaside. plaque displaying its grading
Hotels and Inns hotels will normally have at least one hosts will offer an evening meal for an
Great Britain is known for its traditional restaurant and a bar. Most include additional charge, but this must be
hotels, many of which have been breakfast in the room rate, but some arranged in advance. B&Bs are often
operating for over a century. Historic do not. Most hotel rooms have en-suite cheaper than hotels and guesthouses,
inns offer some of the most characterful bathroom facilities, and some also and are a great way to meet local
accommodation, often in village pubs, offer family rooms and suites. people and pick up local tips.
converted mills or old coaching inns,
which served travellers as far back as Guesthouses Castles and Historic Homes
the 17th century. Because of the age Guesthouses are smaller and usually Stunning accommodation can be
of the buildings, some rooms may be less expensive than hotels. Many were found in the castles and historic
small compared to modern hotels. formerly large family homes, with all homes that have opened some of
Many inns have excellent restaurants or several rooms converted for guests, their rooms to overnight visitors. You
or pub menus. often with simple but charming decor. will certainly pay for the privilege, but
Country-house hotels usually have Those with higher ratings will have a night or two in one of these glorious
beautiful grounds and bigger rooms. en-suite bathrooms. Breakfast is landmark buildings can be the most
Food is often a highlight here, with usually included in the rate, but most memorable of your trip – book early.
more formal dining rooms, creative guesthouses do not have restaurants
set menus and top chefs in the or bars, though they may have snacks Luxury Resorts
kitchen. Be aware that some may and drinks available for guests. In the Golf resorts have long been popular,
not cater for young children. countryside, pubs and, increasingly, especially in Scotland, and now most
Boutique hotels are not just for restaurants have guest rooms available luxury resorts feature spa facilities, too.
cities anymore. Chic, high-concept and this can be an good way to enjoy These establishments have a range
hotels dot the smaller towns and the local nightlife without worrying of activities on offer, as well as fine
resort areas, with everything from the about driving afterwards. dining and casual restaurants – an
reception area to the bathroom sinks attractive option when you want a
(basins) featuring the best in modern Bed-and-Breakfasts (B&Bs) relaxing break from the road.
design. These establishments usually Bed-and-breakfast accommodation is
have lively bars and restaurants, too. offered in private homes around the Booking a Hotel
National and international chain country, from town centres to country It’s essential to book ahead for July
hotels offer accommodation in all farmhouses. They usually have several and August, and during festivals,
price ranges, and these can be found guest rooms – often en suite, but events and busy holiday periods,
in the larger towns and cities or along sometimes with shared bathrooms. to ensure you get your choice of
the motorways throughout Britain. Facilities and decor vary, but they are accommodation. Book by phone or
Depending on their quality rating, usually clean and comfortable. Some (in most cases) online directly with




















022-023_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 22 20/07/18 7:44 PM

Where to Stay 23












Above left Traditional inn, Chipping Campden, made out of the local stone Above right Smart interior of a Chipping Campden hotel
the establishment, using a credit other rating agencies, such as the AA. DIRECTORY
card. Or take advantage of the service Properties are visited and assessed
offered by tourist boards (see p15). every year. Be aware that many PRICE BANDS IN THE BOOK
Some local tourist offices in Scotland establishments with lower star ratings
will book accommodation ahead at still offer excellent quality, but simply Hotels
For a double room for 1 night,
your next night’s destination for a have fewer facilities and services. breakfast and all taxes included
deposit and small service charge. You Generally, the higher the star rating, Inexpensive – under £80
can also find properties of character the more expensive the room, but Moderate – £80–150
and luxury through organizations prices also vary seasonally. Check for
such as Great Inns of Britain, Welsh special offers, and remember that Expensive – over £150
Rarebits and Scotland’s Hotels some of the lowest rates are offered BOOKING A HOTEL
of Distinction. online through the hotel website. Great Inns of Britain
Be sure to check if the rate quoted is www.greatinns.co.uk
per person or per room – B&Bs and Camping Scotland’s Hotels of Distinction
guesthouses are almost always per Camping and caravanning are popular www.hotels-of-distinction.com
person, as are many hotels. Rates in activities in Great Britain, and there is
Britain generally include VAT (tax), but a broad network of sites throughout Welsh Rarebits
01570 470 785; www.rarebits.co.uk
double-check in the pricier city hotels. the country. These are graded for their
quality and facilities, similar to other CAMPING
Facilities and Prices types of accommodation. The Camping and Caravanning Club
British hotel rooms usually have a Camping and Caravanning Club is 0845 130 7632 or 024 7647 5442;
double or twin beds; if you need a cot a good source of information. Wild www.campingandcaravanningclub.
or child’s bed, request it when booking. camping (outside of designated co.uk
Coffee- and tea-making facilities are a camp sites and caravan parks) is
welcome standard. Most places serve not legal in England and Wales. It
a full “English” breakfast with eggs, is permitted in Scotland, but you
bacon, sausage and all the trimmings, should always obtain permission
although “Continental” breakfasts are from the landowner before parking
usually also available. your caravan or pitching your tent.
All types of accommodation, from
camping parks to luxury hotels, are Below far left Façade of Brightonwave B&B,
rated from one to five stars in their Brighton Below left Ees Wyke Country House
respective categories. The rating hotel in the Lakes Below centre Four-poster
system has finally been standardized bed in the hotel at Amberley Castle, Sussex
across the various tourist boards and Below right Camp site by Glencoe, Scotland




















022-023_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 23 20/07/18 7:44 PM

24 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Where to Eat

Britain’s love affair with food has bloomed in recent years, inspired
by TV chefs and innovative restaurateurs, and there is an enticing
array of top-notch eating places at all prices. At the top end, British
chefs are racking up Michelin stars in village restaurants, and there
are countless fun, fashionable eateries with international themes
as well as impressive gastro-pubs that won’t break the bank.
Menus increasingly feature local, seasonal produce, and there are
shops and markets where you can stock up on gourmet goodies.
But never fear – traditional favourites such as cream teas and fish
and chips are as popular as ever, too. Above Sign listing the food and facilities of the
Castle Coffee House, Dunster
Practical Information it will be listed separately on the bill; if chandeliers. Famous chefs run top
A full cooked breakfast at your it isn’t, leave 10–15 per cent for the restaurants specializing in seafood,
guesthouse or hotel can set you up waiting staff. You can also leave an game or local produce all around the
for the day – and don’t be afraid to try extra tip for excellent service. country, and you’ll need to book well
local specialities such as black pudding Casual dress is acceptable in most ahead to get a table. Look for quality
(blood sausage), kippers (split, smoked restaurants, though you may want to symbols such as the Taste of Scotland
herring) or Welsh laverbread (minced dress smartly for more expensive restaurants, which feature creative
seaweed). Lunch is usually served from establishments. Most places are menus based on regional produce.
noon until 2 or 3pm; in smaller towns, wheelchair accessible, but check in Nearly all restaurants feature at least
restaurants and cafes may stop serving advance for older buildings. Some one vegetarian option, usually more.
at 2.30pm. Dinner is the main meal of upmarket restaurants may not Fine-dining establishments have full
the day in Great Britain. Restaurant welcome children under a certain wine lists, and often feature a wide
opening times vary widely; however, age. Children are allowed in pubs with selection of whiskies and other spirits.
most open at 6 or 7pm. In larger towns their parents until 9pm; look for those Ethnic restaurants and those
and tourist areas they may serve until which are family friendly with gardens specializing in European cuisine are
10 or 11pm, but in smaller towns and and play areas. Smoking is banned popular around the country. Along
villages they often close at 9pm, with inside all restaurants and bars. with a multitude of Indian and
last orders half an hour earlier. Many Menus are generally displayed Chinese restaurants, you’ll find Italian,
pubs serve bar food from lunchtime outside near the door or window and French, Greek, Turkish, Polish, Spanish,
until 9pm. High-end restaurants often fine-dining establishments usually and many other offerings.
close one or two days per week offer a set-price (prix fixe) menu as
(usually Mondays and Sunday even- well as à la carte. These can be great Pubs and Bars
ings), but many smaller establishments value, especially at lunchtime, and Many pubs offer simple, inexpensive
in busy areas stay open seven days. allow you to enjoy a top restaurant meals at lunchtime and usually in the
Off the beaten track, they may close at an affordable price. evenings, too. Shepherd’s pie, lasagne,
out of season. It’s wise to phone ahead. fish and chips and ploughman’s
Credit cards are widely accepted, Restaurants lunch (cheese, bread and pickles) are
but pubs, tea shops and take-away Restaurants in Great Britain run the standard offerings. Sunday lunch is
establishments may take cash only. gamut from cosy, casual eateries to popular at many pubs, often with a
Tax is always included in the bill, but impressive dining rooms with carvery serving roast meats, Yorkshire
the service charge varies. If it is added, beautifully laid tables and crystal pudding (batter) and vegetables.




















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Where to Eat 25












Above left The Pump Room Restaurant, Bath Above centre Ice cream and candy floss kiosk, Weymouth beach Above right Café in Bradford-upon-Avon, near Bath
In a class of their own are gastro- you’re touring Devon and Cornwall. DIRECTORY
pubs (short for gastronomic pubs). Fast-food chains are plentiful, but far
These are traditional pubs that have more satisfying are the local versions. PRICE BANDS IN THE BOOK
upgraded their menus with a range Look for small shops selling fish and
of exciting dishes featuring innovative chips, Cornish pasties, or even shish Restaurants
Three-course meal for one with half a
and often local cuisine. You can enjoy kebabs, which make quick, filling and bottle of wine and including VAT (tax)
restaurant-quality meals in a relaxed usually inexpensive take-away meals. Inexpensive – under £25
atmosphere – often at lower prices. Moderate – £25–50
Bars and wine bars sometimes have Picnics
sandwiches or light meals on offer at Nearly every high street in every town Expensive – over £50
various times of the day. will have at least one sandwich shop, RESTAURANTS
where you can grab ready-made
Cafés and Take-aways picnic supplies. Supermarkets also Taste of Scotland
www.taste-of-scotland.com
The weather is not conducive to a café sell sandwiches and snacks. More fun
culture in Britain similar to that in other are the independent food shops and
parts of Europe. But whenever it’s delis, which sell a great range of meats,
warm and sunny, you’ll find restaurant, cheeses and tasty local delicacies.
pub and café tables spilling out onto Best of all are the local markets,
every available pavement space. which are a showcase for regional
Cafés are generally open for producers. Look for picnic supplies of
breakfast and lunch, but most close artisan breads, locally made cheeses,
by 6pm. Most museums and visitor honey and preserves, or apple varieties
attractions have cafés where you can that you can’t buy in a supermarket.
get light refreshments. The coffee Each driving tour in this book notes
craze has taken Britain by storm, and the location and days of the week for
coffee-shop chains are ubiquitous in markets around the region; tourist
larger cities. Many sell sandwiches, information centres can provide
muffins and pastries as well. Not to details of local farmers’ markets.
be missed are traditional tea shops,
where you can have a pot of tea or Below far left Retro-style tea-shop window
coffee along with home-made cakes, Below left Colourful fresh fruit and veg stall,
breads and local specialities – often in selling good-value produce Below centre The
delightful surroundings. Be sure to try pretty Rising Sun Hotel, Lynmouth Below centre
a traditional cream tea with scones, right Café in the heart of Hay-on-Wye Below
clotted cream and jam, especially if right Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant, Padstow




















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THE

DRIVES






















































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DRIVE 1




Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Exeter
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Plymouth


Lizard Point

and the South

Cornwall Coast Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
St Ives to WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Cardiff
Tavistock London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Highlights
• Artists’ haven
Picturesque St Ives, home to national
museums and brimming with galleries
• Cape Cornwall and the Lizard
Wild, rugged and beautiful coastal Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Leeds
scenery at England’s extremities Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
Liverpool
Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
• Porthcurno Birmingham WALES Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham Birmingham
WALES
Perfect Cornish cove below the WALES WALES WALES
Minack Theatre, cut into the cliffside Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Cardiff
London
Bristol
• Gardens galore Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Plymouth
The South West has some of the UK’s
best gardens, thanks to its mild climate
• Roseland Peninsula
Beautiful and unspoiled peninsula
with the picturesque St Justus Church
Classic Cornish cove at Porthcurno, a gem of a
beach in an area of outstanding natural beauty
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
028-029_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 29 30/03/2017 14:14 Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London London London
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND









Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh

Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

30 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Lizard Point and South Cornwall Coast
Hittisleigh
Ashwaterater Okehampton Hittisleigh
Ashw
Okehampton
The coastline around the most southerly part of the British mainland is Roadford Bratton Whiddon
Roadford Bratton
Whiddon
outstandingly beautiful – dramatically rugged with tiny coves punctuating North North Tamar Tamar St Giles Reservoir Clovelly Meldon Down Down
Reservoir Clovelly
Meldon
St Giles
Pether
Drewsteignton
in the Heath
the shore below granite and imposing cliffs. Seabirds such as fulmars, Petherwinwin in the Heath Drewsteignton
Chagford
Chagford
High Wilihays
Lewdown
gannets, cormorants and shags wheel and cry overhead while basking sharks, Egloskerry Lifton Lifton Lewdown High Wilihays Moretonhampsteadead
Egloskerry
622m 622m
Moretonhampst
Lydford
seals and dolphins can often be seen in the water when the sea is calm. Launceston Lydford
Launceston
Dar tmoor
Laneast
Chillaton
Lawhitton
Ancient standing stones and redundant mine workings are evidence that the Laneast Lawhitton Chillaton Dar tmoor
Brentor DEVON
North North
Brown Willy
Postbridge
Milton
area has been well used by man for millennia, but never more so than today. Brown Willy Lewannick Dunterton Milton Brentor DEVON Postbridge
Lewannick
419m 419m
Abbey
Abbey
Dunterton
Visitors pour in to enjoy holidays in and around the beaches and quaint old Bridges Bellever Widecombe-
TwoTwo
Widecombe-
Bellever
Bridges
fishing villages, which previously thrived on huge catches of pilchards. The Linkinhorne West Hill TAVISTOCK in-the-Moor
in-the-Moor
Linkinhorne
TAVISTOCK
West Hill
Bodmin
Buckland-
Colliford
area’s mild climate has also contributed to its rich legacy of exotic gardens, Blisland Reservoirvoir Bodmin Gulworthy Princetown Buckland-
Princetown
Colliford
Gulworthy
Blisland
in-the-Moor
in-the-Moor
Moor
Moor
Reser
Callington
St Ann’s
some planted in previous centuries by keen local horticulturalists. Cardinham St Neot St Cleer Callington St Ann’s Ashburton
Ashburton
Cardinham
St Cleer
Chapel
Chapel
St Neot
Bodmin
Bodmin Yelverton Buckfastleigh
Yelverton
Buckfastleigh
Dobwalls
Fowey Fowey Dobwalls St Ive St Ive Bere Bere
Alston
Lanivet
Lanivet Liskeard Alston Bere Ferrersrers Dean Prior
Bere Fer
Liskeard
Dean Prior
CORNW ALL
CORNW ALL Landulph Plymouth South South
Landulph
Brent Brent
St Keyne
Roche Roche Bugle Bugle St Keyne Plymouth Cornwoodood
Cornw
Lostwithiel
Indian Queens
Indian Queens Lostwithiel Deviock Saltash
Saltash
Deviock
Diptford
Lanreath
Ivybridge
Cubert St St Lanreath Ivybridge Diptford
Cubert
Plymouth
Plympton
0 kilometres 10 THE EDEN PROJECT Blazey Plymouth Plympton
THE EDEN PROJECT
Blazey
Torpoint
Perranporth
Brighton
Perranporth Brighton FOWEY East Looeooe Torpoint Saltram
Saltram
East L
FOWEY
Millbr
Modbury
0 miles 10 Perranzabuloe St Austell West Looeooe Millbrookook Plymstock Modbury River Avon River Avon
West L
Plymstock
Perranzabuloe
St Austell
Whitesand
St Agnes
St Agnes Whitesand Yealmpton
Yealmpton
Ladock Polruan BayBay Cowsand Holbeton
Ladock
Polruan
Holbeton
Cowsand
CHARLESTOWN POLPERRO Wembury Aveton
CHARLESTOWN
POLPERRO
Wembury
Aveton
Newton
Porthtowan Newton
Porthtowan
Gifford
Rame Head
LOST GARDENS
Tresillian
Bigbury
Tresillian St Ewe LOST GARDENS Rame Head Ferrersrers Bigbury Gifford
Fer
St Ewe
Portreath
Portreath Tregoney OF HELIGAN
OF HELIGAN
Tregoney
Kingsbridge
Truro Truro Kingsbridge
Mevagissey
Redruth
Redruth St Day KeaKea Mevagissey
St Day
ST IVES
ST IVES King King St Michael Thurlestoneone
Thurlest
St Michael
Gwennap
Caerhays
Carbis
Carbis Camborne Pool Pool Gwennap Harry Harry Caerhays
Camborne
ZENNOR
ZENNOR BayBay Trelissick Portloetloe
Trelissick
Por
Mor
Morvahvah Treen Treen Hayle Hayle Praze- Praze-
ST JUST-IN-ROSELAND
Penryn
en-Beeble
PENDEEN
St Erth
PENDEEN St Erth en-Beeble Penryn ST JUST-IN-ROSELAND
Madron
ST MAWES
St Just
St Just Madron Marazion Wendron Falmouth ST MAWES
Wendron
Falmouth
Cape Cape Penzance Marazion
Penzance
Constan
Cornwall Constantinetine
Cornwall
Mawnan Smith
Newlyn ST MICHAEL’S Helston Mawnan Smith
Newlyn
Helston
ST MICHAEL’S
Sennen
Sennen MOUNT Gweek Helford
MOUNT
Gweek
TREBAH GARDENS
Porthleven
Porthleven Helford TREBAH GARDENS
Land’s
MOUSEHOLE
Land’s MOUSEHOLE
Goonhilly Satellite
EndEnd Treen Treen Goonhilly Satellite
Earth Station
Earth Station
PORTHCURNO
PORTHCURNO Mullion St Keverne
Mullion
St Keverne
Coverack
Mullion C
Mullion Coveove Kuggar Coverack
Kuggar
Ruan Minorinor
Ruan M
Cadgwith
Cadgwith
Kynance Cove
Kynance Cove
THE LIZARD
Lizard Pointoint THE LIZARD Below The Lizard Point Lighthouse at England’s
Lizard P
PENINSULA
PENINSULA
ACTIVITIES most southerly point, see p34
Enjoy Cornish clotted cream on scones with jam or in ice cream
Take on the Atlantic surfing in St Ives or kite-surfing at Marazion
Admire great art in St Ives and invest in an artwork from one
of the small galleries there
Go underground at the Geevor tin mine in Pendeen
Enjoy a clifftop drama at the Minack Theatre, Porthcurno
Explore an exotic garden at Trebah, the Lost Gardens of
Heligan or the Eden Project
Take a boat trip from Fowey for the scenery, wildlife and seabirds
030-031_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 30 20/07/18 7:24 PM

DRIVE 1: Lizard Point and the South Cornwall Coast 31


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Hittisleigh
Okehampton
Ashwaterater Okehampton Hittisleigh
Ashw
Roadford Bratton Whiddon Start/finish: St Ives to Tavistock.
Roadford Bratton
Whiddon
Reservoir Clovelly Down Down
Reservoir Clovelly
Meldon
St Giles
North North Tamar Tamar St Giles Meldon Number of days: 4–5, allowing half a
Drewsteignton
Petherwinwin in the Heath Drewsteignton day to visit the galleries in St Ives. Visits
in the Heath
Pether
Chagford
High Wilihays
Lewdown
Egloskerry Lewdown High Wilihays Chagford to a garden, especially Heligan or the
Egloskerry
622m 622m
Moretonhampst
Lifton Lifton Lydford Moretonhampsteadead
Lydford
Launceston
Launceston Eden Project, will take up to half a day
Dar tmoor
Laneast
Chillaton
Lawhitton
Laneast Lawhitton Chillaton Dar tmoor at least, as will a trip to Dartmoor.
Brentor DEVON
North North
Postbridge
Brown Willy Lewannick Milton Brentor DEVON Postbridge
Milton
Brown Willy
Lewannick
419m 419m Abbey Distance: 275 km (171 miles).
Abbey
Dunterton
Dunterton
TwoTwo
Widecombe-
Bellever
Bridges Bellever Widecombe- Road conditions: Although well-paved
Bridges
in-the-Moor
Linkinhorne
Linkinhorne TAVISTOCK in-the-Moor and signed, many of the country roads
TAVISTOCK
Bodmin West Hill Princetown Buckland-
Bodmin
West Hill
Buckland-
Colliford
Colliford
Blisland
Gulworthy
Blisland Reservoirvoir Moor Gulworthy Princetown in-the-Moor are narrow. Those leading down to old
in-the-Moor
Moor
Reser
Callington
St Ann’s
Ashburton
Cardinham
Cardinham St Neot St Cleer Callington St Ann’s Ashburton fishing harbours are often steep and
St Cleer
Chapel
St Neot
Chapel
Bodmin Yelverton Buckfastleigh tend to be congested in high season.
Bodmin
Yelverton
Buckfastleigh
Fowey Fowey Dobwalls St Ive St Ive Bere Bere
Dobwalls
Lanivet
Alston
Lanivet Liskeard Alston Bere Ferrersrers Dean Prior When to go: Cornwall is a popular
Bere Fer
Dean Prior
Liskeard
CORNW ALL Landulph Plymouth South South tourist region so the whole area gets
CORNW ALL
Landulph
Brent Brent
St Keyne
Cornw
Roche Roche Bugle Bugle St Keyne Plymouth Cornwoodood very crowded in July and August. In
Lostwithiel
Saltash
Indian Queens Lostwithiel Deviock Saltash winter, when the weather is usually still
Indian Queens
Deviock
Diptford
Ivybridge
Lanreath
Cubert St St Lanreath Ivybridge Diptford
Cubert
Plymouth
Plympton
THE EDEN PROJECT Blazey Plymouth Plympton comparatively mild, towns return to
THE EDEN PROJECT
Blazey
Torpoint
Brighton
Perranporth
Perranporth Brighton East Looeooe Torpoint Saltram
Saltram
East L
FOWEY
FOWEY “normal” but villages can be very quiet.
Millbr
Modbury
West L
Perranzabuloe St Austell West Looeooe Millbrookook Plymstock Modbury River Avon River Avon Because of the number of tourists, most
Plymstock
St Austell
Perranzabuloe
Whitesand
St Agnes Whitesand Yealmpton
St Agnes
Yealmpton
Ladock
Ladock Polruan BayBay Cowsand Holbeton places have well-signed car parks,
Polruan
Holbeton
Cowsand
CHARLESTOWN
CHARLESTOWN POLPERRO Wembury Aveton
Wembury
POLPERRO
Aveton
Newton
Porthtowan
Porthtowan Newton usually pay-and-display. In peak time,
Rame Head
Gifford
Bigbury
Tresillian
Tresillian St Ewe LOST GARDENS Rame Head Ferrersrers Bigbury Gifford
Fer
LOST GARDENS
St Ewe
Portreath
Portreath Tregoney OF HELIGAN look for park-and-ride schemes.
OF HELIGAN
Tregoney
Kingsbridge
Truro Truro Kingsbridge
Mevagissey
Redruth
Redruth St Day KeaKea Mevagissey
St Day
ST IVES
ST IVES King King St Michael Thurlestoneone Opening times: Museums and
St Michael
Thurlest
Gwennap
Caerhays
Carbis
Carbis Camborne Pool Pool Gwennap Harry Harry Caerhays KEY attractions are generally open
Camborne
ZENNOR
ZENNOR BayBay Trelissick Portloetloe Drive route 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Trelissick
Por
Mor
Morvahvah Treen Treen Hayle Hayle Praze- Praze- closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
ST JUST-IN-ROSELAND
Penryn
en-Beeble
St Erth
PENDEEN
PENDEEN St Erth en-Beeble Penryn ST JUST-IN-ROSELAND are often open longer. Churches are
Madron
ST MAWES
St Just Madron Marazion Wendron Falmouth ST MAWES usually open until dusk.
St Just
Wendron
Falmouth
Cape Cape Penzance Marazion
Penzance
Constan
Cornwall
Cornwall Constantinetine
Mawnan Smith
Newlyn
Newlyn ST MICHAEL’S Helston Mawnan Smith Market days: St Ives: Thu; Tavistock:
Helston
ST MICHAEL’S
Sennen
Sennen MOUNT Gweek Helford Above View across the beautiful estuary from Polruan to Fowey, Pannier Market, Tue–Sat.
MOUNT
Gweek
TREBAH GARDENS
Porthleven
Porthleven Helford TREBAH GARDENS a popular yachting destination, see p36
Land’s
MOUSEHOLE
Land’s MOUSEHOLE
Goonhilly Satellite
EndEnd Treen Treen Goonhilly Satellite Shopping: Local crafts, paintings,
Earth Station
Earth Station
Mullion
PORTHCURNO
PORTHCURNO Mullion St Keverne Cornish pasties and clotted cream.
St Keverne
Coverack
Mullion C
Mullion Coveove Kuggar Coverack Major festivals: St Ives: September
Kuggar
Ruan Minorinor Festival; Porthcurno: Minack Theatre
Ruan M
Cadgwith
Cadgwith
Kynance Cove
Kynance Cove season, Apr–Sep; Helston: Furry Dance
THE LIZARD
Lizard P
Lizard Pointoint THE LIZARD Festival, early May; Widecombe:
PENINSULA
PENINSULA
Widecombe Fair, 2nd Tue in Sep; Fowey
Festival of Arts and Literature, May.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Enjoy the sandy beaches and art
galleries of St Ives, then head down
the coast to explore old tin mines, cliff­
tops and the spectacular Porthcurno
theatre. On the Lizard, swim in the
Atlantic surf or visit a seal sanctuary.
From St Austell or Fowey, see the Lost
Gardens of Heligan, learn about
shipwrecks at Charlestown or visit the
amazing Eden Project with its space­
age biomes. For full details, see p37.
030-031_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 31 20/07/18 7:24 PM

32 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING ST IVES 1 St Ives
Cornwall; TR26 2DS
Parking
The steep streets get very congested. Once Cornwall’s busiest pilchard-fishing port, St Ives suffered as fish
Park at the top of the town and walk stocks declined at the start of the 20th century. Help had arrived with
down to the harbour. Upper Trenwith the advent of the railway in 1877, as the trains brought holidaymakers
Car Park provides a shuttle bus down. to the town. Artists, including Turner, were also drawn by the clear
Tourist Information
The Guildhall, Street an Pol, TR26 2DS; light there, and many of the harbourside net lofts were now converted
01736 796 297; www.stivestic.co.uk; to artists’ studios. The fishing never recovered, but the visitors kept
closed Sat pm, Sun coming, attracted by the fine sandy beaches and many art galleries.
WHERE TO STAY
A two-hour walking tour community. Go along Sea View Place
ST IVES Walk downhill from the Tourist to St Ives Museum 5 (open Easter–Oct,
Rivendell inexpensive Information Centre (TIC) 1. Turn left closed Sun) in Wheal Dream which tells
Award-winning family-run guesthouse along St Andrew’s Street to Market the town’s history – one gallery has
near sea and town centre; offers sea Place, which is overlooked by the paintings from the 1880s when the
views, packed lunches and car park.
7 Porthminster Terrace, TR26 2DQ; 01736 15th-century St Ia’s 2, built in celebrated St Ives School of Artists
794 923; www.rivendell-stives.co.uk the local textured granite, with was formed. Continue down a
a 24-m (80-ft) tower. It has narrow walkway to steps
Boskerris Hotel moderate–expensive
Smart but friendly hotel above Carbis carved sandstone pillars, above the sea and around
Bay with 15 stylish rooms (most have choir stalls, a gilded roof the car park above the tiny
sea views), decked terrace and a garden. and a Madonna sculpture Porthgwidden Beach and
Boskerris Road, TR26 2NQ; 01736 795 by Barbara Hepworth. its excellent café. With the
295; www.boskerrishotel.co.uk; open Turn right to join Wharf Road sea on your right, continue
Mar–Nov
3 which leads around the St Ives onto the grassy headland of
AROUND ZENNOR harbour to a tiny 16th-century Museum sign the Island, which has the tiny
Gurnard’s Head moderate chapel on Smeaton’s Pier 4 St Nicholas Chapel 6 at the
Small and cosy inn in an imposing where, nowadays, just a few fishermen top. Drop down again to the car park.
building near the sea, amidst a wild still land their catch. Carry on along Porthmeor Road and
Cornish landscape. Excellent restaurant.
Treen, TR26 3DE (3 km/2 miles west A warren of cobbled streets climbs right into Back Road West and right
of Zennor); 01736 796 928; steeply up into Downalong, the oldest again onto the seafront for the Tate St
www.gurnardshead.co.uk part of town, once home to the fishing Ives Gallery 7 (Mar–Oct, open daily;
Nov–Feb, closed Mon), a striking white
0 metres 300 building with a large convex window.
It features artists who painted in
0 yards 300 St Nicholas Cornwall in the mid-20th century.
Chapel
Walk back along the seafront,
bearing right into The Digey and
Porthgwidden right again into Fore Street. Fork right
Beach
Porthmeor uphill, following signs to the Barbara
PO RTH MEOR RD ISLAND RD Hepworth Museum and Sculpture
Beach
Garden 8 (Mar–Oct, open daily; Nov–
BACK RD WE ST St Ives Museum Feb, closed Mon) on Barnoon Hill. The
sculptor, a key figure in the develop-
TH E W H A R F Smeaton’s ment of abstract art in Europe, worked
Pier in the house for 26 years, and her work
PORTHMEOR HILL PORTHMEOR RD St Ives Gallery Museum and FORE STREE T W HAR F ROA D Harbour turn right and go steeply uphill at the
THE
Tate
is displayed here (and in the garden).
DIGEY
Head downhill from the museum,
HILL
BARNOON
Barbara Hepworth
next junction signed Trewyn Gardens.
Sculpture Garden
W E S T PL ACE
Cross these to the far exit leading to
AY R L A N E
MARKET
PLACE
High Street. Return to the TIC via
St la’s a T-junction. Turn left towards the
HIGH ST Tregenna Place, past the Library
B EDFOR D ROA D TREGENNA Tourist which, like many of the galleries in
WINDSOR HILL
Information Centre
town, displays work by local artists
PLACE
TH E STENNACK T HE WARREN or which has been created locally.
ª Exit on the B3306 towards St Just
T H E T ERR AC E
and Land’s End. Zennor is just off the
road on the right after 8 km (5 miles).
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
032-037_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 32 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 1: Lizard Point and the South Cornwall Coast 33
















Above left Shop selling traditional beach
2 Zennor slightly further west but much of the toys, St Ives Above centre Tate St Ives gallery
Cornwall; TR26 3DA majesty of the site has been lost due Above The stage and beautiful setting of the
Did the mermaid depicted on a pew to the development of the area. Minack Theatre, Porthcurno
in the 12th-century church of St Senara ª Take the B3306 to St Just and then
really lure a chorister to his death by take the A3071, then turn right onto EAT AND DRINK
her singing? Or did the story serve to B3306 (signed Land’s End). Turn right ST IVES
discourage outsiders from venturing onto A30. After Sennen, turn left onto Sloop Inn inexpensive
down to the cove, a local smugglers’ B3315, then right to Porthcurno. Follow Overlooking the harbour and noted
haunt? Whatever the truth of the tale, signs and park at the Minack Theatre. for its seafood, this is one of Cornwall’s
the factual side of Zennor’s history oldest inns. It dates back to 1312 with
since the Bronze Age is shown in the 4 Porthcurno wood beams, slate floors and cobbles.
The Wharf, TR26 1LP; 01736 796 584;
Wayside Museum (open daily, Apr–Oct) Cornwall; TR19 6JX www.sloop-inn.co.uk
housed in a 16th-century miller’s The unique feature of this small Porthgwidden Café moderate
cottage. The great Methodist evangelist sandy cove is the Minack Theatre, Small white stone building with
John Wesley preached in Zennor in hewn out of the cliffs above it. With terrace at Porthgwidden Beach. Noted
the mid-18th century and another the sea as a backdrop, the Greek- for its steak, fresh fish and seafood.
notable visitor was the writer D H style theatre, created in the 1930s, Porthgwidden Beach, TR26 1PL; 01736
Lawrence during World War I. He has an incomparable setting. The 796 791
stayed with his German wife, Frieda, visitor centre tells its story (open daily; AROUND PORTHCURNO
at the Tinners Arms pub, while writing performances May–Sep; www.minack. Logan Rock Inn inexpensive–moderate
Women in Love. The Zennor Quoit com). A small white pyramid on Pub known for its real ales and home-
burial chamber, just southeast of the the cliff marks the spot where the cooked food – pasties, steaks and crab.
village on Amalveor Downs, is one of first transatlantic telephone cable Open fire in winter, beer garden and
the area’s many prehistoric remains. was laid in 1880. The fascinating pre-Minack theatre dinners available.
Treen, TR19 6LG (1.5 km/1 mile east of
ª Carry on along the B3306 to Pendeen. history of telegraphy is told in the Porthcurno); 01736 810 495; www.
Geevor Tin Mine car park is on the right. Porthcurno Telegraph Museum theloganrockinn.co.uk
(Apr–Oct, daily; Nov–Mar, Sat–Mon).
3 Pendeen ª Return to B3315; after 8 km (5 miles), Below Smeaton’s Pier and the harbour at low
Cornwall; TR19 7EW turn right for Mousehole car park. tide, St Ives, Cornwall
The ruined stacks and engine houses
dotted along the coast, a UNESCO
World Heritage site for Cornish mining,
are reminders of the area’s boom time
in the 19th century. At Pendeen,
Geevor Tin Mine (closed Sat) shows
how tin was mined and processed.
Carry on along the B3306, past
granite outcrops, where remains of
prehistoric habitation, such as
standing stones and burial mounds,
can often be seen among the
bracken. Turn right at St Just to Cape
Cornwall, a windswept headland
topped by a slender chimney stack
which evokes a true end-of-the-
world feeling. In fact, Land’s End lies




032-037_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 33 20/07/18 7:25 PM

34 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Cornish Wreckers
As any Cornishman will tell you,
“wreckers” were really bounty-
seekers, not heartless criminals who
deliberately lured ships onto the
rocks by placing a decoy light on
the shore. The Cornish coast, with
its jagged rocks and fierce currents,
scarcely needed any help to cause
shipwrecks as hundreds of boats
floundered on it over the years. On
stormy nights, wreckers would be
ready and waiting to plunder any
cargo, though responsible ones
would rescue the sailors first. Often
wrecking led to battles with local
“preventive men” – customs officers.

7 The Lizard Peninsula
The tip of this windswept peninsula is
England’s most southerly point. Paths
trace around the cliffs of this jagged
coastline, dropping to secluded coves
and harbours. Rare wildflowers grow
Above The Castle, dominating St Michael’s on the heathland where ponies graze.
Mount, off Marazion Top right Picturesque 5 Mousehole At much-photographed Kynance
harbour and granite houses at Mousehole Cornwall; TR19 6SD Cove, tilted pinnacles of rock stand
Right Sign at Lizard Point, mainland England’s This quintessential Cornish fishing like giants paddling in the sea off the
most southerly point village – pronounced “mouzel” – with sandy beach surrounded by cliffs.
a granite sea-walled harbour held At the end of the A3083, the Lizard
WHERE TO STAY over 400 pilchard fishing boats in the Point Lighthouse is the most power-
19th century. A tangle of steep ful in England, visible for 34 km
AROUND THE LIZARD PENINSULA narrow lanes lead down past pretty (21 miles) in one of the world’s busiest
Mullion Cove Hotel cottages to waterside pubs, cafés shipping lanes. In summer, basking
moderate–expensive and shops. Mousehole Bird sharks can often be seen just offshore.
Originally built for wealthy Victorians, Sanctuary on Raginnis Hill cares for Back up the A3083, to the right,
this gleaming white clifftop hotel injured sea birds (open daily). tucked below the cliffs, lies Cadgwith.
enjoys extensive sea views.
Mullion Cove, TR12 7EP; 01326 240 ª Return to the B3315 to Newlyn and Here, pretty whitewashed thatched
328; www.mullion-cove.co.uk join A30 (towards Truro). Turn right to cottages surround a tiny harbour
Marazion at the junction with A394. whose fishermen entered the record
AROUND TREBAH Follow signs to St Michael’s Mount. books in the 19th century by landing
Budock Vean expensive 1.3 million pilchards in one day. Now
Large hotel in vast parklands beside the 6 St Michael’s Mount they mainly catch lobster and crab,
Helford River. Award-winning restaurant,
sports activities and natural health spa. near Penzance, Cornwall; TR17 0EF which can be sampled with a glass of
Helford Passage, Mawnan Smith, TR11 This islet, looming out of the sea near real ale at the Cadgwith Cove Inn.
5LG (1 km/0.5 mile from Trebah); Marazion, is dramatically topped by Drive through Ruan Minor and
01326 250 288; www.budockvean.co.uk a 12th-century castle (open Sun–Fri Kuggar, turning left onto the B3293
ST JUST-IN-ROSELAND Apr–Oct) – in turn a church, priory, to go past the Goonhilly Earth
Round House Barns moderate fortress and now private home. At Station. On the open heathland
A Cornish cream tea greets guests at low tide it can be reached on foot stands a cluster of huge, futuristic
this award-winning B&B in a tastefully across a causeway first used by satellite dishes – the largest is
converted 17th-century barn. pilgrims in the Middle Ages; a small 32 m (105 ft) in diameter. The site,
St Just-in-Roseland, TR2 5JJ; ferry runs from Marazion at other chosen for its clear views, clean air
01872 580 038;
www.roundhousebarnholidays.co.uk times. A cobbled path leads up to the and lack of nearby buildings to
castle past terraced gardens. Home cause electrical interference, is
ST MAWES of the St Aubyn family since 1660, it used for radio astronomy and
Tresanton expensive has a mix of architectural styles. deep space communications.
Award-winning hotel stylishly created ª Return to the A394 to Helston, then Carrying on the B3293, turn off right
in a cluster of old houses. Rooms and
restaurant have sea views. turn right on the A3083 to the Lizard to Gweek. Children of all ages will love
27 Lower Castle Road, TR2 5DR; 01326 Peninsula. Turn right at signs for the Gweek Seal Sanctuary (open daily).
270 055; www.tresanton.com Kynance Cove after Mullion. Above Helford estuary, the sanctuary
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


032-037_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 34 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 1: Lizard Point and the South Cornwall Coast 35


cares for sick or injured seals. There through a 17th-century lych (roofed)
are also otters, ponies, goats and gateway or via the beach, is notable
a children’s play area. for its subtropical plants and borders
ª From Gweek carry on towards of granite stones inscribed with
Falmouth; at Constantine turn right at Biblical texts and hymns.
sign to Mawnan Smith where Trebah ª Head south on A3078 to St Mawes.
Gardens (and car park) are signed. Fork right for castle; park in car park.
0 St Mawes
Cornwall; TR2 5DE
Terraces of old cob cottages and smart
modern houses command glorious
seaviews from their position above the
harbour. The views and two sandy
beaches make St Mawes a popular
spot for holidays and retirement, as
well as for sailing and walking. The
castle, the best preserved of Henry Above The beautiful and luxuriant gardens at
VIII’s coastal fortresses, has gun ports Trebah, near Mawnan Smith
on the three huge circular bastions
overlooking the busy Carrick Roads
waterway, a large natural harbour
created during the Ice Age.
Above Winged cherub statue in the leafy, green ª Head north on A3078. After Ruan
Lost Gardens of Heligan High Lanes, turn right (signed Portloe) EAT AND DRINK
and follow signs to Mevagissey through
8 Trebah Gardens Tippetts Shop and Tubbs Mill. The MOUSEHOLE
Mawnan Smith, Cornwall; TR11 5JZ gardens (with car park) are to the right. 2 Fore Street moderate
French-style bistro noted for its fresh
In the 1830s, prosperous shipping fish, interesting puddings and home-
agent and enthusiastic horticulturalist q Lost Gardens of Heligan made bread; courtyard in summer.
Charles Fox collected a wealth of Pentewan, Cornwall; PL26 6EN 2 Fore Street, TR19 6QU; 01736 731
sub-tropical plants and trees from The “lost” gardens of Heligan (open 164; www.2forestreet.co.uk
around the world to create Trebah daily) were restored in the 1990s after THE LIZARD PENINSULA
Gardens (open daily). This lush 75 years of neglect. Their original Black Swan Inn inexpensive
paradise, set in a wooded ravine designs, laid out between 1766 and Friendly Cornish pub offering a large
which descends 61 m (200 ft) to a World War I, included Italian and selection of real ales. Menu includes
private beach on Helford River has New Zealand gardens, summer traditional English puddings served with
tumbling waterfalls, a pool of giant houses, a rocky ravine, crystal grotto custard, ice cream or clotted cream.
Gweek, TR12 6TU; 01326 221 502;
koi carp and great banks of blue and and wishing well. Just as remarkable www.blackswangweek.pub
white hydrangeas. Paths lead under is the story of Tim Smit, the force
the shaded canopy of giant gunnera behind this restoration (and the Eden AROUND TREBAH
leaves and through a bamboo maze Project, see p36), who took it on after Red Lion inexpensive
and flower borders. a successful career in pop music. Picturesque thatched pub (1545) with
three atmospheric bars offers bar
ª Return to Mawnan Smith, follow ª Turn right out of the gardens then lunches and restaurant in the evening.
signs to Penryn. Turn left onto A39. left onto B3273 towards St Austell. Turn Goldmartin Square, Mawnan Smith,
Next take B3289 right to the King right to Charlestown. TR11 5EP (1 km/0.5 mile from Trebah);
Harry Ferry (toll) across the Fal and 01326 250 026; www.redlioncornwall.
back on B3289 to St Just-in-Roseland. com
ST MAWES
9 St Just-in-Roseland The Victory inexpensive
Cornwall; TR2 5HY Traditional pub with bar meals and
Designated an Area of Outstanding first-floor restaurant with terrace.
Grove Hill, St Mawes, TR2 5DQ; 01326
Natural Beauty for its leafy lanes and 270 324; www.victoryinn.co.uk
seascapes, the Roseland peninsula
includes St Just-in-Roseland whose HELIGAN
13th-century St Justus Church with Lobbs Farm Shop moderate
its squat crenellated tower nestles This shop by the Gardens’ entrance sells
fresh Cornish produce and picnic fare.
beside a wooded tidal creek, framed Pentewan, PL26 6EN; 01726 844 411;
by trees – a truly picture-postcard Above The Church of St Justus, with its beautiful www.lobbsfarmshop.com; closed Sun
scene. The churchyard, entered either garden in St Just-in-Roseland & Mon Jan–Feb
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


032-037_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 35 20/07/18 7:25 PM

36 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
















Above left Close up of one of the biome
domes, the Eden Project Above centre w Charlestown a huge disused china clay quarry
Inside the “Temperate” biome at the Eden Charlestown, St Austell; PL25 3NJ into a “living theatre of plants and
Project Above right Picnic area outside the Soon after china clay was discovered people”. The result is a series of
Shipwreck & Heritage Centre, Charlestown 250 years ago in the downs north of incredible geodesic “biomes”, the
St Austell, a major industry evolved. largest greenhouses in the world, in
VISITING FOWEY The “white gold” was exported which different environments have
around the world from Charlestown been created – rainforest, temperate
Tourist Information dock, formerly just a small fishing and arid, all surrounded by gardens.
5 South Street, PL23 1AR; 01726 833 harbour. The Shipwreck & Heritage There is also a programme of
616; www.fowey.co.uk
Centre (Mar–Oct, open daily) on the quay- seasonal events and exhibitions.
Ferry Services side evokes local history through ª Rejoin the A390, turning right onto
Take the Bodinnick car ferry, and then tableaux, models and photographs; the A3082 to Fowey. Parking can be
follow signs to Polruan Ferry (car park).
The passenger ferry crosses to Fowey visitors can also enter dark tunnels found near the Tourist Information
every 15 minutes. The last ferry back is through which clay was conveyed Centre on Albert Quay. For a car-free
at 11pm (7pm Oct–Apr). www.looe. in trucks to the dock-side. Today, visit, see left.
org/ferries.html the dock is quiet once more, home
to three full-size replicas of historic r Fowey
WHERE TO STAY sailing ships, used on film locations. Cornwall; PL23 1AR
Tours of ships available when in Two ruined blockhouses, one in
AROUND THE EDEN PROJECT dock (Easter–Oct, open daily). Fowey (pronounced “foy”), the other
Boscundle Manor expensive ª Turn right and take A390 through St across the estuary in Polruan, are a
Comfortable 18th-century country Austell. Follow signs to Eden Project. reminder of medieval times when
house with gardens and indoor pool.
Boscundle, PL25 3RL (1.5 km/1 mile a defensive chain stretched between
south of the Eden Project); 01726 813 e The Eden Project them to demast any undesirable ships
557; www.boscundlemanor.co.uk Bodelva, St Austell, Cornwall; PL24 2SG trying to enter the deep anchorage.
Moving on from Heligan, Tim Smit’s Today the river is busy with pleasure
FOWEY
next visionary idea was the Eden craft, and neat Edwardian terraces
Old Quay House expensive
Elegant modern interiors and an award- Project (open daily) which has turned linked by narrow streets climb up
winning restaurant overlooking the
estuary grace this 150-year-old hotel. Walking on Dartmoor
28 Fore Street, PL23 1AQ; 01726 833 Much of Dartmoor National Park can
302; www.theoldquayhouse.com; no only be explored on foot by fairly
under-12s experienced walkers. However, the
POLPERRO going is easier around the edges,
where gentle woodland footpaths
Old Millhouse Inn inexpensive run beside small rivers, for example,
Comfortable seven-room B&B in a along Lydford Gorge and by the East
16th-century mill and later a bakery, Dart at Bellever. The Princetown
now converted into a cosy pub.
Mill Hill, PL13 2RP; 01503 272 362; Visitor Centre (Tavistock Road,
Princetown, PL20 6QF) is a good
www.theoldmillhouseinn.co.uk
starting point for circular walks,
TAVISTOCK detailed in a free leaflet; other walks
Bedford Hotel inexpensve start from visitor centres at Haytor
and Postbridge. In addition, there is
This stately building, on the site of a
Benedictine abbey, was once the a year-round programme of guided
residence of the Dukes of Bedford. walks graded by length and difficulty,
1 Plymouth Road, PL19 8BB; 01822 613 Above Historic Square Sail Rigger at Charlestown see www.dartmoor.gov.uk.
221; www.bedford-hotel.co.uk harbour, near St Austell
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
032-037_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 36 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 1: Lizard Point and the South Cornwall Coast 37


from the busy water’s edge. The wheeling and crying overhead, this
town’s focal point is the 15th-century 13th-century former pilchard-fishing
St Fimbarrus Church with a Norman village is almost too pretty for its own
font. The nearby Fowey Museum good – it gets very busy in summer.
(1 South St; open Mon–Fri Apr–Sep) ª Leave Polperro on A387 (signed
reveals local literary Looe), turning left onto B3359.
connections including At the junction with A390,
Daphne du Maurier. Look turn right to Tavistock
for the original Elizabethan (40 km/25 miles). Park
panelling and ceiling in in Bedford Square.
the Ship Inn (Trafalgar
Square). Take a boat trip y Tavistock
aboard Moogie (Town Quay; Plaque outside the Devon; PL19 OAE Above View over the Tamar Valley, seen from
07792 625 908) to see the Town Hall, Tavistock Gateway to Dartmoor Kit Hill near Tavistock
many cliff-nesting sea birds National Park, Tavistock
and, perhaps dolphins, seals became a prosperous market town VISITING TAVISTOCK
or even basking sharks. during the 19th century, thanks to the Tourist Information
ª Take the Bodinnick car ferry and discovery of copper in mines owned Bedford Square, PL19 0HE; 01822 612
follow signs to Polperro. The village is by the 7th Duke of Bedford. As a 938; www.tavistockonline.co.uk
car free, so park at the top, then either result, he paid for the remodelling of
walk down to the harbour or ride in the town hall in grand Gothic style EAT AND DRINK
one of the “trams”. and built other buildings around
Bedford Square in the local grey- FOWEY
green Hurdwick stone, including the Sams moderate
Bedford Hotel and the Pannier Market. Popular small restaurant specializing in
seafood and American diner-style dishes.
A small local history museum (Easter– 20 Fore Street, PL23 1AQ; 01726 832 273;
Oct, open Mon–Sat) is housed in the www.samscornwall.co.uk
monastery gatehouse on the square.
To the east lies the wild moorland of POLPERRO
Dartmoor, populated by ponies and Three Pilchards inexpensive
Traditional old pub with a small roof
sheep and dominated by granite tors. garden; renowned for its ales and food.
In the centre, Princetown, famous for Quay Road, PL13 2QZ; 01503 272 233;
its prison built in Napoleonic times, www.threepilchardspolperro.co.uk
is the highest town in England. Near Couch’s moderate
Above The small ferry town of Polruan, the edges lie interesting old market Smart restaurant that mixes old-world
looking across the estuary towards Fowey towns such as Moretonhampstead charm with modern influences.
and Chagford as well as atmospheric Big Green, PL13 2QT; 01503 272 554;
t Polperro villages like Buckland-in-the-Moor www.couchspolperro.com; open May–
Sep Mon–Sat, Oct–Apr Mon & Thu–Sat
Cornwall; PL13 2QR and Drewsteignton, both with pretty
A single main street of whitewashed thatched stone cottages and small AROUND TAVISTOCK
cottages, old mill houses, inns and granite churches. The 36-m (120-ft) Copper Penny Inn inexpensive
boathouses, with the little River Pol tower of St Pancras Church at 18th-century village pub with real ales
beside them, runs down a wooded Widecombe-in-the-Moor, a village and meals based on local produce.
Gulworthy, PL19 8NT (4 km/2.5 miles
valley to the fishing harbour and tiny immortalized by the folk song about west of Tavistock on the A390); 01822
stone Roman bridge. With seagulls its fair, is a landmark for miles around. 833 288
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the B3306 from St Ives on to Use the A3083; then take the B3293
As well as the beauty of its coastline, St Just and then take the B3315. to Goonhilly and Gweek and drive
Cornwall has a wealth of superb on to Trebah.
gardens thanks to its mild climate. The Lizard
The Lizard Peninsula 7 offers plenty Harbours and Gardens
Culture and Coast of attractions for both kids and Find the Lost Gardens of Heligan q
Explore St Ives 1 and its galleries in adults. Take a dip at Kynance Cove, and then learn about shipwrecks in
the morning, then grab a pasty and visit the Lizard Lighthouse and have Charlestown w. Tour the Eden Project
head along the coast to pretty Zennor lunch at Cadgwith. Drive past the e before returning to Fowey to end
2, Pendeen 3 and Cape Cornwall – futuristic Goonhilly Earth Station the day by the water’s edge r.
for a clifftop picnic. Finish the day to see the seals at Gweek. Then, The B3273, A390 and A3082 connect
watching the sun sink into the sea at if there’s still time, explore the Fowey to Heligan with Charlestown and
the Minack Theatre, Porthcurno 4. gardens at Trebah 8. the Eden Project well signed on the way.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


032-037_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 37 13/09/18 3:58 PM

038-039_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 38 30/03/2017 14:14
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 2




Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Exeter
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Plymouth


Headlands

and Coves


Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Manchester Bideford to Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Birmingham
WALES Birmingham Bodmin Moor WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
WALES
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Highlights

• Magnificent coastal scenery
Walk along grassy clifftops where
Atlantic surf breaks onto rocks below,
and headlands frame distant beaches
• Legendary King Arthur in Tintagel
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool On a windswept promontory, explore Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
the ruins of the medieval castle that
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
inspired tales of royal chivalry
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
• Gourmet cuisine
Cardiff London Bristol London Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff
Eat out in Padstow, home of chef
Rick Stein, who has turned this small
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
fishing port into a gastro heaven
• Literary connections
Visit locations immortalized by writers
Charles Kingsley, Daphne du Maurier
and Henry Williamson
Fishing trawlers and yachts moored side by
side in Padstow’s picturesque harbour
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
038-039_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 39 30/03/2017 14:14 Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Edinburgh
Bristol
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND









Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

40 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Headlands and Coves

The coast that runs south-west from north Devon into Cornwall is
extremely dramatic. Grassy clifftops fringed by rocks are pounded by
Atlantic waves. In places the cliffs drop down to stunning sandy beaches Lundy
Lundy
Island
Barnstaple
and coves, while jutting headlands stretch into the distance on either side. Island APPLEDORE Barnstaple
APPLEDORE
Barnstaple
Find a place to leave the car and walk along a section of the South West Barnstaple WESTWARD HO!
WESTWARD HO!
Instow
Bishop’s
Coast Path to enjoy the best views or, for a contrasting moorland panorama, Hartland or or Instow Bishop’s
Tawton
Tawton
Hartland
Bideford Bay
Point
head inland to Bodmin Moor and climb up one of its windswept tors. The HARTLAND Point Bideford Bay
HARTLAND
Abbotsham
BIDEFORD
area’s rich scenery is complemented by fine historic houses and beautiful PENINSULA Stoke Hartland Clovelly Abbotsham BIDEFORD Alverdiscott River Taw
PENINSULA
Hartland
Abbey
Alverdiscott
Abbey
Clovelly
River Taw
gardens as well as plenty of opportunities to sample some of England’s Hartland Quay Stoke Higher Clovelly Landcross
Hartland Quay
Landcross
Higher Clovelly
Atherington
Weare
freshest and best-cooked seafood. Hartland Weare Atherington
Hartland
Gi ard
Gi ard
Docton Mill
Docton Mill
Edistone
Edistone Woolfardisworthy
Woolfardisworthy
Monkleigh
Tosberry
Tosberry Monkleigh
Frithelstock GREAT TORRINGTON
Frithelstock
Deptford GREAT TORRINGTON
Deptford
ACTIVITIES Little Torrington
Little Torrington
West Putford
West Putford
Morwenstow Langtree
Morwenstow
Langtree
Stibb Cross
Bradworthy
Cycle along the Tarka Trail between Bideford and Great Bradworthy Stibb Cross Torridge
Torridge
Torrington or by the Camel Estuary from Padstow to Bodmin Merton
Merton
DEVON
Kilkhampton
Kilkhampton DEVON
Laze on the beach at Bude or surf the waves as they roll Buckland
Bude
Buckland
onto the sand Bude Stibb Stibb Milton Filleigh
Milton
Filleigh
Damerel
Damerel
B ay
Discover the ruined castle at Tintagel, the legendary B ay Chilsworthy
Chilsworthy
Stratton
gathering place of King Arthur’s knights Stratton Bradford
Bradford
BUDE
BUDE
0 kilometres 8
Take a ferry ride to Rock from Padstow or enjoy a day trip
Holsworthy
Marhamchurch
by boat to Lundy Island from Bideford 0 miles 8 Marhamchurch Holsworthy
Widemouth Bay
Widemouth Bay
Savour a plate of fresh fish and chips at a waterside fish Widemouth
Widemouth
Clawton
restaurant in Appledore, Bude or Padstow Clawton
Whitstone
Whitstone
St Gennys Week St Mary
St Gennys
Week St Mary
North Tamerton
Walk a stretch of the South West Coast Path or climb to North Tamerton
Crackington
the top of Brown Willy on Bodmin Moor Crackington
Haven Wainhouse
Haven
Wainhouse
Ashwater
Corner Tamar Tamar Ashwater
Corner
St Giles
Boscastle Canworthy St Giles
Boscastle
Canworthy
Below Cliffs plunge to the bay below the Water North in the Heath
in the Heath
Water
North
medieval castle of Tintagel, see p45 Petherwin
Petherwin
TINTAGEL
TINTAGEL Tresmeer Warrington
Warrington
Tresmeer
Egloskerry
Egloskerry
Davidstow
Davidstow
DELABOLE Launceston
DELABOLE
Launceston
SLATE Camelford
SLATE
Camelford
Laneast
Port Isaac
Port Isaac Laneast
Bay Bay West Downs South
West Downs
South
Altarnun
Petherwin
Port Isaac
Port Isaac Rough Tor Altarnun Petherwin
Rough Tor
Lewannick
400m 400m Lewannick
Brown Willy
St Teath Brown Willy
St Teath
Michaelstow
St Endellion
St Endellion Michaelstow 419m 419m
Trevose St Minver
Trevose
St Minver
St Kew
Head Head St Kew Bolventor
Bolventor
CORNW ALL
PADSTOW Rock Rock CORNW ALL
PADSTOW
St Merryn
St Merryn Blisland
Blisland
Wadebridge
BODMIN
St Issey
St Issey Wadebridge BODMIN Minions
Minions
MOOR
PENCARROW MOOR
PENCARROW
St Breock
St Breock
St Eval
St Eval
Washaway
Washaway Cardinham
Cardinham
St Neot
St Neot
BODMIN
BODMIN
Fowey
Withiel
Withiel Fowey
St Wenn Lanivet
St Wenn
Lanivet
LANHYDROCK
LANHYDROCK
Lostwithiel
Lostwithiel
040-041_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 40 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 2: Headlands and Coves 41


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Lundy Start/finish: Bideford to Bodmin Moor.
Island
Number of days: 3–4, allowing half a
Lundy
Lundy day for a coastal walk in Bude.
Island Barnstaple
Barnstaple
Island
APPLEDORE
Barnstaple
Barnstaple APPLEDORE Distance: 205 km (128 miles).
WESTWARD HO!
or or WESTWARD HO! Instow Bishop’s Road conditions: Well-paved and
Instow
Bishop’s
Tawton
Hartland Tawton
Hartland
Bideford Bay
Point Point Bideford Bay signposted throughout, including
HARTLAND
HARTLAND Abbotsham River Taw some busier roads as well as winding
Abbotsham
BIDEFORD
PENINSULA Hartland BIDEFORD
PENINSULA
Hartland
Alverdiscott
Clovelly
Stoke Stoke Abbey Abbey Clovelly Alverdiscott country lanes that sometimes have
River Taw
Hartland Quay Landcross steep gradients.
Hartland Quay
Landcross
Higher Clovelly
Atherington
Hartland Higher Clovelly Weare Atherington
Weare
Hartland
Gi ard
Docton Mill Gi ard
Docton Mill
Edistone
Edistone Woolfardisworthy When to go: The area is busy from
Woolfardisworthy
Monkleigh
Tosberry Monkleigh June to September, particularly along
Tosberry
Frithelstock GREAT TORRINGTON the coast, which is very popular for
Frithelstock
Deptford GREAT TORRINGTON family holidays. Spring and autumn
Deptford
Little Torrington benefit from mild weather, but winter
Little Torrington
West Putford
West Putford
Morwenstow Langtree can be stormy. Many attractions and
Morwenstow
Langtree
Stibb Cross
Bradworthy Stibb Cross Torridge
Bradworthy
some places to stay and eat are closed
Torridge
Merton
DEVON Merton from November to Easter.
DEVON
Kilkhampton
Kilkhampton
Bude Stibb Stibb Milton Buckland Opening times: Museums and
Buckland
Bude
Milton
Filleigh
Filleigh
Damerel attractions are generally open
Damerel
B ay
B ay 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Stratton Chilsworthy closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
Chilsworthy
Stratton
Bradford
Bradford
BUDE
BUDE are often open later. Churches are
usually open until dusk.
Holsworthy
Marhamchurch Holsworthy
Marhamchurch
Widemouth Bay Market days: Bideford: Pannier
Widemouth Bay
Widemouth Market, daily; Great Torrington:
Widemouth
Clawton
Clawton Pannier Market, daily; Bude: Easter–
Whitstone Sep, Fri.
Whitstone
St Gennys Week St Mary North Tamerton
St Gennys
Week St Mary
North Tamerton
Crackington Shopping: Pasties and clotted cream;
Crackington
Haven
Wainhouse
Haven Wainhouse
Ashwater
Corner Tamar Tamar Ashwater surf and beach equipment.
Corner
Major festivals: Bideford: Regatta,
St Giles
Canworthy
Boscastle Canworthy St Giles
Boscastle
in the Heath
Water
Water North in the Heath Jun; Appledore: Summer Festival,
North
Petherwin Aug; Book Festival, late Sep; Bude:
Petherwin
TINTAGEL
TINTAGEL Tresmeer Warrington KEY Lifeboat Festival, last Mon in Aug; Jazz
Warrington
Tresmeer
Egloskerry
Egloskerry Drive route Festival, last week in Aug; Padstow:
Davidstow
Davidstow “Obby Oss” spring festival, with
DELABOLE Launceston procession and dancing through
DELABOLE
Launceston
SLATE Camelford
SLATE
Camelford
Laneast
Port Isaac Laneast the streets, 1 May.
Port Isaac
Bay Bay West Downs South
West Downs
South
Altarnun
Petherwin
Port Isaac Rough Tor Altarnun Petherwin Below The seaside town of Bude, framed by hills
Port Isaac
Rough Tor
Lewannick
400m 400m Lewannick covered with a patchwork of fields, see pp44–5
Brown Willy
St Teath Brown Willy
St Teath
St Endellion
St Endellion Michaelstow 419m 419m
Michaelstow
Trevose
Trevose St Minver
St Minver
St Kew
Head Head St Kew Bolventor DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Bolventor
CORNW ALL
PADSTOW Rock Rock CORNW ALL
PADSTOW
Spend a day visiting the tranquil
St Merryn Blisland
St Merryn
Blisland
Wadebridge
BODMIN
St Issey Wadebridge BODMIN Minions Hartland Peninsula or, a favourite
St Issey
Minions
MOOR
PENCARROW MOOR with children, exploring Tintagel
PENCARROW
St Breock
St Breock
St Eval with its castle situated on a dramatic
St Eval
Washaway Cardinham headland. Indulge in some gourmet
Washaway
Cardinham
St Neot
St Neot
eating in Padstow, then work it off
BODMIN cycling along the Camel Estuary
BODMIN
Withiel
Withiel Fowey
Fowey
towards Bodmin, or walking the
St Wenn
St Wenn Lanivet South West Coast Path. For full
Lanivet
LANHYDROCK
LANHYDROCK
details, see p47.
Lostwithiel
Lostwithiel
040-041_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 41 20/07/18 7:25 PM

42 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING BIDEFORD
Parking
Park in the Victoria Park car park next
to the Tourist Information Centre.
Tourist Information
Burton Art Gallery, Kingsley Road,
EX39 2QQ; 01237 471 455; www.
northdevon.com
Bideford Cycle, Surf and Kayak Hire
Torrington Street, EX39 4DR; 01237 424
123; www.bidefordbicyclehire.co.uk
Boat Trips to Lundy Island
Up to five 2-hour sailings a week from
April to October. Bideford Quay, 01271
863 636; www.lundyisland.co.uk Above left A sign advertises traditional pasties
1 Bideford Above right Bideford’s Pannier Market hall
WHERE TO STAY Devon; EX39 2QQ
Described 150 years ago by local baskets in which farmers’ wives used
BIDEFORD writer Charles Kingsley as “the little to bring produce for sale. Burton Art
Orchard Hill moderate white town which slopes upward Gallery (open daily) in Victoria Park on
A smart yet friendly hotel on the from its broad river tide”, Bideford is the riverside has sections on the
hillside, with a south-facing veranda. still much the same, busy with town’s history. It’s possible to hire a
Orchard Hill, EX39 2QY; 01237 472 872; fishing vessels, pleasure craft and the bike nearby and cycle along the
www.bidefordhotel.com MS Oldenburg, which ferries visitors Tarka Trail to Great Torrington.
Yeoldon House moderate to the National Trust’s Lundy Island ª From the Victoria Park car park, turn
A former Victorian residence, this bird sanctuary, 17 km (11 miles) right on to Kingsley Road (B3235) and
riverside hotel has a a fine restaurant.
Durrant Lane, EX39 2RL; 01237 474 away. The promenade beside the cross A39 on to A386, signposted to
400; www.yeoldonhousehotel.co.uk Taw Estuary has been set off since Appledore. Park in car park on quay.
the 13th century by the 24-arch
HARTLAND PENINSULA Long Bridge, originally built from 2 Appledore
Hartland Quay Hotel moderate wood but encased in stone since Devon; EX39 1QS
This remote hotel is dramatically sited 1535. Narrow old streets crowded Along tiny streets and alleyways,
under the cliffs by the sea.
Hartland, EX39 6DU; 01237 441 218; with small shops and pubs lead up colour-washed Georgian cottages
www.hartlandquayhotel.com; closed from the water to the Victorian with bow windows line the Taw and
20 Dec–2 Jan Pannier Market hall, named for the Torridge estuaries; no wonder
Appledore has become a favourite
with local artists – several galleries
show their work. Fishing and ship-
building were the town’s life blood
for centuries, as explained in the
small North Devon Maritime Museum
in Odun Road (open Apr–Oct: daily).
Fishing trips are available from
the quay.
ª Follow signs to Westward Ho!
3 Westward Ho!
Devon; EX39 1QS
The neighbouring seaside resort,
named after Charles Kingsley’s novel of
Elizabethan seafarers, is notable mainly
for having England’s oldest golf links, a
long sandy beach and a pebble ridge.
ª Take B3236 and A39 to Bideford, take
A386 to Great Torrington, follow signs to
Dartington Crystal. Park in the car park.
Far left Fishing boats moored at the quay at
Appledore Above left Wall sculptures created by
one of Appledore’s artists Below left A statue
of local author Charles Kingsley in Bideford
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


042-047_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 42 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 2: Headlands and Coves 43






















Above left Windswept headlands of Hartland
4 Great Torrington (signed Bude). At Higher Clovelly, turn Peninsula Above right Docton Mill Gardens
Devon; EX38 8AA right onto B3248 to Hartland, then Below Mill pond at Docton Mill Gardens
It’s a scenic drive beside the River follow signs on minor road through
Torridge to Great Torrington, home Stoke to Hartland Quay; park in car
of Dartington Crystal, where visitors park. Return to Stoke and turn right
can see glass being hand blown down tiny lane to Docton Mill at Milford. EAT AND DRINK
(tours Mon–Fri; visitor centre and shop
daily). At the RHS Rosemoor Gardens, 5 Hartland Peninsula AROUND BIDEFORD
there are areas devoted to roses, fruit North Devon; EX39 6DU Boathouse moderate
and vegetables, a lake and an This blissfully quiet rural pocket is Lively waterside restaurant and bar
arboretum (open daily). The Battle of criss-crossed by narrow country looking across the Torridge Estuary
Torrington – a Royalist rout in the lanes leading to windswept Hartland to Appledore.
English Civil War in 1646 – features Quay, where dramatic cliffs give way Marine Parade, Instow, EX39 4JJ (take
strongly in the small, volunteer-run to a tiny 16th-century harbour with B3233 out of Bideford along the
estuary towards Barnstaple); 01271
Great Torrington Heritage Museum a small shipwreck museum (open 861 292; www.instow.net/boathouse;
(open daily). Easter–Oct, daily). In Stoke, St Nectan’s no reservations
ª From Great Torrington, take B3227 14th-century church is known as the Instow Arms moderate
to Stibb Cross; turn right on minor road cathedral for its 350-m (128-ft) high Upmarket pub fare is served in the
to go through Woolfardisworthy to A39 tower. Nearby are 16th-century first-floor restaurant, and there is also
stately Hartland Abbey (open Apr–Sep, a cosy downstairs bar.
Lundy Island Sun–Thu) and pretty Docton Mill Marine Parade, Instow, EX39 4JJ; 01271
860 608; www.instowarms.com
This car-free island 17 km (11 miles) Gardens & Tea Rooms (open Mar–Sep
off the coast is a sanctuary for puffins daily), where tea is served in a APPLEDORE
with a resident human population of beautiful room or by the mill pond. Beaver Inn moderate
30 – joined in summer by hordes of ª From Docton Mill, take minor road Atmospheric old pub beside the
day-trippers who come to go seal via Edistone and Tosberry to rejoin Torridge Estuary, with panoramic
watching, visit its 13th-century castle views from its terrace. Noted for its
and have a drink at Marisco Tavern. A39 to Bude. Park in canalside Tourist fresh fish dishes.
Information Centre car park. Irsha Street, EX39 1RY; 01237 474 822;
www.beaverinn.co.uk
The Royal George moderate
An old beamed pub with a dining area
overlooking the estuary.
Irsha Street, EX39 1RY; 01237 474 335;
www.trgpub.co.uk
HARTLAND PENINSULA
Docton Mill Gardens Tea Room
inexpensive
Small café in the delightful gardens
serving snacks and award-winning
Devonshire clotted cream teas.
Lymebridge, EX39 6EA; 01237 441 369;
www.doctonmill.co.uk; open Mar–Sep
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


042-047_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 43 20/07/18 7:44 PM

44 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

6 Bude
Crescent car park, Bude; EX23 8LE
Bude is more than just a popular seaside resort. As well as two large
sandy beaches, it has some of Britain’s best coastal walks along its
grassy clifftops. There are reminders too of its past, when it was a
battlefield, a busy port and home of Cornwall’s “forgotten inventor”.

A two-hour circular walk engine, sewer ventilation system and
The walk starts from the car park at revolving lights for lighthouses.
Above Dinghies lined up against the wall on the Tourist Information Centre 1 in Heading along the path towards
Bude’s quayside Bude, where a good selection of the sea you come to a restored sea
local guidebooks is on lock 4, which enabled
VISITING BUDE
sale (open daily, except Sun boats to “lock in” to
in winter). The restored unload their cargoes
Parking
Park in Crescent car park beside the stretch of canal beside it at a quay rather than
canal, signposted to the right in town. is the remains of a 56-km on the beach. Turning
Tourist Information (35-mile)-long canal left, the path climbs
Crescent car park, EX23 8LE; 01288 354 built in the early 19th sharply to the coast
240; www.visitbude.info century to transport path, signposted to
Raven Surf School lime-rich beach sand Widemouth, 5km
Lessons on Bude’s beaches. inland as fertilizer. (3 miles) away. From the
01288 353 693; www.ravensurf.co.uk; Heading towards the clifftop there are views
from £35 for a 2-hour lesson. sea, cross the canal Buckets and spades over Bude Haven beach,
bridge – originally a swing for sale at Bude where the small River Neet
WHERE TO STAY
bridge to let ships through flows into the sea. Before it
– and continue past the impressive silted up, this was a thriving harbour.
BUDE
white Falcon Hotel 2. Opposite it, Because of its trade, the village of
Falcon Hotel moderate the canal-side castle now houses the Stratton, inland, was granted a royal
Originally a lodging house for sea
captains, this hotel has sea and canal excellent Castle Heritage Centre 3 charter by King John in 1207.
views and a walled garden. (open daily), where the town’s varied A long breakwater stretches out to
Breakwater Road, EX23 8SD ; 01288 story is imaginatively told, alongside Chapel Rock, lit in medieval times by
352 005; www.falconhotel.com working models of Sir Goldsworthy a light to guide ships into port. The
Stratton Gardens Guesthouse Gurney’s pioneering Victorian curious octagonal tower 5, known
moderate inventions; these included a steam as the “pepper pot”, was a Victorian
A five-bedroom guesthouse in a 16th-
century house with a bar and garden.
Cot Hill, Stratton, EX23 9DN; 01288 352
500; www.stratton-gardens.co.uk Sea
Tower Lock
TINTAGEL Castle Heritage
Avalon moderate B R E A K WAT E R R D Centre Tourist Information
Comfortable B&B in an Edwardian Centre
guesthouse. Four rooms have sea views. Falcon
Atlantic Road, PL34 0DD; 01840 Hotel VICARAGE RD
770 116
Bude Marshes
Below Stone mile-post marks path on Nature Reserve
clifftops above Bude Efford Down
LY N S T O N E R O A D

LYNSTONE
Mile-post B AGBURY R O A D


0 metres 500
UPTON Rodd’s
Bridge
0 yards 500
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


042-047_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 44 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 2: Headlands and Coves 45


coastguard’s hut, erected in Grecian
style as a symbol of Bude’s ambitions.
Look back past the Haven over
twin sandy beaches Summerleaze
and Crooklets; in Victorian times
Crooklets was for women’s use only.
The path along the clifftop crosses
Efford Down 6. Here in 1643
Cornishmen in the Royalist Army
camped on the eve of the English Civil
War battle of Stamford Hill, where they
defeated the Parliamentarians. Above left Bude’s grassy clifftops Above
At Upton, turn left inland and are the 14th-century Old Post Office right Life’s a Beach café at Summerleaze
follow the lane down to the canal at (open Mar–Oct daily) and King Arthur’s
Rodd’s Bridge 7. Turn left along the Great Halls (open Easter–Oct daily),
towpath, noting the stone mile-post telling the legend of the king. On the EAT AND DRINK
8 beside it, dating from 1820, and rugged clifftop you can see the
carry on along the towpath that 12th-century church of St Materiana. BUDE
flanks Bude Marshes Nature Reserve ª Return to B3263 in direction of Pengenna Pasties inexpensive
9, where a variety of birds and Camelford, turning right at sign to Beef, lamb, cheese & onion, vegetable
flowers flourish, back at the start. Delabole on B3314. Delabole Slate or vegan is the choice of traditional
ª Turn left out of car park and leave quarry is signed to the left in the Cornish pasties at this small bakery.
Bude on small clifftop road signposted village. Park in the quarry car park. Arundell House, Belle Vue, EX23 8JL;
to Widemouth Bay to rejoin A39 in 01288 355 169; www.pengenna
pasties.co.uk
direction of Camelford. Turn right 8 Delabole Slate
onto B3263 to Boscastle and then Cornwall; PL33 9AZ Cafe Limelight moderate
Smart café with sea-facing terrace in
Tintagel, where several car parks are The largest man-made hole in Britain, the Castle Heritage Centre; strong
signposted in village and near castle. at Delabole Slate, has been quarried emphasis on local produce.
for more than 600 years. Over 1 km The Wharf, EX23 8LG; 01288 357 300;
7 Tintagel (half a mile) across and nearly 1,500 m www.thecastlebude.org.uk
Cornwall; PL34 0HE (500 ft) deep, the hole is Europe’s AROUND BUDE
Was this clifftop castle the birthplace oldest continuously worked quarry, Life’s A Beach daytime: inexpensive;
of the legendary King Arthur? Did producing 120 tons of slate a day. evening: expensive
the medieval kings of Cornwall live (tours of surface works May–Aug, Mon–Fri). By day this is a popular beachside café;
there? Mystery surrounds the ruins ª Leaving Delabole Slate, turn left at 7pm it turns into a sophisticated
perched on a rocky headland onto B3314 and left at Westdowns onto restaurant, specializing in fish.
Follow signs from Bude to Summerleaze
beyond the village’s single main B3267 to join A39 towards Wadebridge. Beach (1 mile), EX23 8HN; 01288 355
street. The castle’s ruined battlements After Wadebridge, turn right at St 222; www.lifesabeach.info
(open daily) date back to the 13th Breock onto A389 to Padstow. Prideaux
century and are well worth the steep Place is on the edge of Padstow, off TINTAGEL
climb for exhilarating views of the B3276 towards Newquay. Park on the Cornishman Inn inexpensive
dramatic coastline. In the village itself quay or in Prideaux Place car park. Atmospheric, beamed pub with a
restaurant noted for its steaks; 11 rooms.
Fore Street, PL34 0DA; 01840 770 238;
Below left The rocky headlands of Tintagel Below right Medieval battlements at Tintagel Castle www.cornishmaninn.com

















Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


042-047_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 45 20/07/18 7:44 PM

46 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


0 Pencarrow
Washaway, Cornwall; PL30 3AG
Tall conifers from around the world
soar above the long drive leading
to this Georgian mansion, owned
by the same family since it was built in
the 1770s. In spring, rhododendrons,
camellias and azaleas create patches
of vivid colour in the gardens. The
house is notable for its Adam
furniture, upholstered in rose silk
damask that matches the curtains –
“treasure” captured from a Spanish
Above The still waters of Padstow’s harbour ship in 1762. Joshua Reynolds
reflect yachts and wharf buildings 9 Padstow painted many of the portraits on
Cornwall; PL28 8AF show (house open Apr–Sep, Sun–Thu;
VISITING PADSTOW
Fame has been bestowed on this gardens open Mar–Oct, daily).
small port on the Camel Estuary ª From Pencarrow, continue to
Parking
Park on the quay, or at The Lawns. thanks to a fish restaurant opened Bodmin on A389. Several car parks
in a Victorian drill hall in 1975 by a signposted, one on left as you enter
Tourist Information
Red Brick Building, North Quay, local chef, Rick Stein. Now famous town, at end of Camel Trail.
PL28 8AF; 01841 533 449; for his TV appearances, he has four
www.padstowlive.com restaurants in the town, plus Literary Connections
Padstow Cycle Hire gourmet shops and a cookery Westward Ho! is the only town in
South Quay, PL28 8BL; 01841 533 533; school, making it a gastro heaven. England to be named after a book –
www.padstowcyclehire.com Alternatives to eating include clifftop and to have an exclamation mark!
walks, a ferry trip across to Rock, a Charles Kingsley wrote his historical
WHERE TO STAY romance while living in Bideford;
stop at the intriguing fishery (open after its publication entrepreneurs
daily), where lobsters are hatched, or
PADSTOW developed the resort. Daphne du
a visit to Prideaux Place (open Apr– Maurier found inspiration for her
Old Ship Hotel moderate Oct, Sun–Thu). This sumptuously novel Jamaica Inn while staying at
Centrally located hotel with estuary the coaching inn on Bodmin Moor,
views whose bar has live music. furnished family-owned Elizabethan
Restaurant noted for its fresh fish. manor has often been used as the a notorious smugglers’ haunt, in
1930. Henry Williamson’s 1927 story
Mill Square, PL28 8AE; 01841 532 357; location for period films, among
www.oldshiphotel-padstow.co.uk them Oscar and Lucinda, Trevor Tarka the Otter is set in North Devon.
The places he describes in it are now
St Petroc’s Hotel expensive Nunn’s Twelfth Night and several linked by a 290-km (180-mile) long
A short walk uphill from the harbour, Rosamund Pilcher novels. From trail, including a section between
this 10-room hotel in a white wisteria- Padstow bikes can be hired to cycle Bideford and Great Torrington.
clad Georgian building is one of Rick
Stein’s properties. along the River Camel to Bodmin.
4 New Street, PL28 8BY; 01841 532 700; ª From Padstow, return to the A389
www.rickstein.com past Wadebridge towards Bodmin. q Bodmin
Pencarrow is signposted off to the left Cornwall; PL31 2DQ
Below The imposing façade of Bodmin Gaol, 6 km (4 miles) after Wadebridge. Park Guilty or not guilty? Visitors to
which now houses a pub and brasserie in the car park. Courtroom One in Shire Hall (tours
Mon–Sat), the old county court, can
decide the verdict in a realistic
re-enactment of a famous murder
trial held here in 1844, and then visit
the cells. The life of an 18th-century
prisoner is depicted in the former
Bodmin Gaol, a forbidding building
that now houses various eateries. The
500-year-old St Petroc’s Church,
which has a 12th-century font and
the saint’s ivory casket, is the largest
medieval church in Cornwall.
ª Take B3268, signed Lostwithiel, out
past the station. Lanhydrock is signed
to the left after 3 km (2 miles). Park in
the car park.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
042-047_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 46 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 2: Headlands and Coves 47















Above left Passenger ferry departs Padstow
w Lanhydrock e Bodmin Moor for Rock Above right A signpost in Blisland
near Bodmin, Cornwall; PL30 5AD Blisland: PL30 4JE; Jamaica Inn: PL15 indicates its old-fashioned charms
After this stately 17th-century 7TS; Minions: PL14 5LA
house was gutted by fire in 1881 With its small 11th-century church,
it was rebuilt, battlements and all, St Protus and St Hyacinth, Blisland is EAT AND DRINK
to match the surviving north wing typical of the quiet villages that
and gatehouse. The interior was nestle in leafy valleys on the western PADSTOW
replanned to include the latest slopes of the moor. In complete The Basement Café
amenities – central heating, bath- contrast, the wild and often desolate moderate–expensive
rooms and “modern” servants’ uplands are strewn with huge A quayside restaurant specializing in
quarters, all in typical Victorian boulders, dotted with ancient local fish and seafood, The Basement
Café also prepares hearty breakfasts.
style. The gardens, laid out at standing stones and topped by 11 Broad Street, PL28 8BS; 01841 532
the time of rebuilding, feature brooding tors like Rough Tor, an Iron 846; www.thebasement.co.uk;
rhododendrons, magnolias and Age fort, and Brown Willy, which at closed Sun evening
camellias, with woods and parkland 420 m (1,377 ft) is the moor’s highest Seafood Restaurant expensive
leading down to the banks of the point. Around Minions, on the south This is the Rick Stein place that started
River Fowey (open Mar–Oct daily). side of the moor, darkly picturesque Padstow’s rise to culinary fame in the
ª Return towards Bodmin and relics of the mining industry can be 1970s. Bright and airy, it’s just across
follow signs to join A30 towards seen – chimneys, engine houses and the quay from where the lobster boats
and trawlers tie up. A less exalted
Launceston. Blisland is signed off to spoil dumps. Jamaica Inn at option (eat-in or take-away), but just
the left, from where minor roads take Bolventor, an 18th-century slate- as special, is Stein’s Fish & Chips Café
you to the tors. The A30 continues hung inn which inspired Daphne du on South Quay, PL28 8BL. Another
across the moor, passing Jamaica Inn Maurier’s novel of the same name, is option is to hone your own talents
at Bolventor. Turn right there towards mainly notable for its bleak evocative by signing up for the famous chef’s
cookery course of 1, 2, 4 or 6 days.
Liskeard and after 8 km (5 miles) turn setting – and gets very crowded in Riverside, PL28 8BY; 01841 532 700;
left to Minions. high season. www.rickstein.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Park in the Victoria Park car park at Park in the car park nearest Tintagel
A great range of day trips is possible Bideford and hire a bike at Bideford Castle, if you can, to visit the ruins. Take
along this route, taking in bike rides, Cycle, Surf and Kayak Hire. Follow B3263 to Boscastle, then join A39 to
beautiful coastline and historic sites. driving instructions from Bideford to Bude, turning left off it at Widemouth.
Appledore and park on the quay.
Tarka Country Gourmet Padstow
Hire a bike at Bideford 1 and Castles and Cliffs Take a boat trip across the Camel
spend a leisurely day cycling along Whatever the weather, the castle at Estuary to Rock, see how the lobsters
the Tarka Trail up the Torridge Valley Tintagel 7 on its dramatic headland are hatched, and work up an
to Great Torrington 4, looking out is an exciting place to explore, and appetite for a fish lunch at Rick
for otters on the river banks. Visit the clifftop coast path provides Stein’s Seafood Restaurant or fish
Dartington Crystal and RHS magnificent sea views. Discover the and chips on the quayside. Energetic
Rosemoor Gardens before cycling legend of King Arthur, then drive to types can hire a bike and cycle
back to Bideford. Drive to the head Bude 6 to build sandcastles inspired beside the River Camel to Bodmin
of the Taw and Torridge estuaries at by the medieval ruins, surf or simply with its weighty judicial past;
Appledore 2 and then relax over a laze on one of its twin sandy beaches. alternatively visit the Elizabethan
well-earned drink and a fish supper Pick up traditional pasties for a picnic manor at Prideaux Place.
at the atmospheric old Beaver Inn or from Pengenna Pasties, or lunch at
Royal George. Life’s A Beach café. Park on the quay at Padstow.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro