(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 14: Through Snowdonia National Park 149


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Machynlleth to Llandudno.
Pensarnn
Pensar Number of days: 4, allowing time to
explore Snowdonia National Park and
MOELFRE
MOELFRE walk on Anglesey Island.
Llanallgo Great Or
Great Ormesmes
Llanallgo
Head Head
Penrhyn
Llanerch-y-medd Benllech LLANDUDNO Penrhyn Distance: Around 295 km (183 miles).
Llanerch-y-medd Benllech
LLANDUDNO
Bay
Bay
Penmon Colwyn
Penmon
Colwyn
Conwy
Conwy Bay Bay Road conditions: Well-paved and
Pen Pentraethtraeth BEAUMARIS Bay Bay signposted – the roads below Cadair
BEAUMARIS
Valley Anglese yAnglese y
Valley CONWY Idris are narrow but have passing places.
CONWY
Llangefni
Llangefni
Llanfairfechan Pentrefelin
Llanfairfechan
Pentrefelin
Penmynyddynydd
Penm When to go: Summer is best for
Bangor Llangelynin
Bangor
Llangelynin
Tal-y-cafn
LLANFAIRPWLL
LLANFAIRPWLL Menai Br Ty’n-y-groes Tal-y-cafn outdoor activities, some places in
Menai Bridgeidge
the north close in the winter.
Foel Frasras
PLAS NEWYDD
PLAS NEWYDD Foel F 942m Ty’n-y-groes Conwy Conwy Llangernyw Opening times: Museums and
Llangernyw
942m
Bethesda
Bethesda
Llanddeiniolen
Llandoget
Newborough
Newborough Llanddeiniolen Llandoget attractions are generally open
TREFRIW
Brynrefail TREFRIW 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or
Brynrefail
WOOLLEN MILLS
CAERNARFON
CAERNARFON WOOLLEN MILLS are closed altogether) Nov–Easter.
Llanrwst
Bontnewydd
Bontnewydd Llanberis Llanrwst Shop times are longer. Churches
Llanberis
Capel Curig CONWY
MOUNT Glyder F Capel Curig CONWY Above Barmouth seen in the distance on the are usually open until dusk.
MOUNT
Glyder Fawrawr
Llanwnda SNOWDON
Llanberis
Llanwnda SNOWDON Llanberis 999m 999m Nebo Nebo
Sno wdoniawdonia
Caernarfon Pass Pass Sno BETWS-Y-COED drive from Cadair Idris to Harlech Castle, see p151 Main market days: Dolgellau (near
Caernarfon
BETWS-Y-COED
Mt Snowdon
Bay Bay Mt Snowdon Brithdir): Farmers’ Market, 3rd Sun of
1085m
1085m
Pontllyfni Pen Penygroesygroes Dolwyddelan month; Porthmadog (near Harlech):
Pontllyfni
Dolwyddelan
Craig Cwm Silyn Pentrefoelas
Pentrefoelas
Craig Cwm Silyn
Penmachno
National
734m 734m National Penmachno Fri; Anglesey (at Menai Bridge, near
BEDDGELERTT
BEDDGELER Llyn Llyn Llanfair PG): Farmers’ Market, 3rd Sat
Dinas
Dinas
Blaenau of month; Conwy: Farmers’ Market,
Blaenau
Ffestiniog Llyn
Ffestiniog Llyn
Carnedd y Filiastiliast
Pen-sarn
Pen-sarn Conwy Carnedd y F last Wed of month.
Conwy
669m
669m
Rhyd Rhyd Pa Pa r kr k
Dolbenmaeu
Dolbenmaeu
Ffestiniog Shopping: Local crafts, including
Ffestiniog
Penrhyndeudraeth Llyn Llyn
Penrhyndeudraeth
Llangybi
Llangybi Celyn traditional double-weave blankets.
Celyn
Por Porthmadogthmadog Llyn Llyn
Arenig Fawrawr
Trawsfynyddydd
Portmeirion
Portmeirion Trawsfyn Arenig F Major festivals: Llanberis:
854m
854m
Talsarnau
Talsarnau
Tremadog
Tremadog Trawsfynydd Snowdonia Marathon, Oct; Anglesey:
Trawsfynydd
Bay Bay Holyhead Traditional Sail Festival, Aug;
GWYNEDD
GWYNEDD
HARLECH CASTLE
HARLECH CASTLE Beaumaris: Arts Festival, May; Conwy:
Honey Fair, Sep; Feast, Oct.
Llanbedr
Llanbedr Below The redoubtable Harlech Castle, site
Rhobell Fawrawr
Y Llethr Rhobell F
754m 754m Eden 734m 734m of many long sieges, see p151
Llanfachreth
Ganllwyd Llanfachreth DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Ganllwyd
Y Llethr Eden
Llanenddwyn
Llanenddwyn
Wnion Wnion
Penmaenpool BRITHDIR Keen photographers should stay at
Penmaenpool
BRITHDIR
Llanaber Dolgellau Machynlleth, see glacial lakes, then
Llanaber
Dolgellau
Bar Barmouthmouth Brithdir’s church and on to the peaks
Barmouth Arthog
Barmouth Arthog Cadair Idr of Cadair Idris. Stay at Caernarfon for
Cadair Idrisis
Bay Bay 892m the castle, then go to Llanberis and
892m
CAD
CADAIRAIR
Aberangell
IDRIS
Llwyngwril
Llwyngwril IDRIS Aberangell take the thrilling train ride up Mt
Corris
Corris Snowdon. Tour huge tunnels inside
Dysynni
Llanegryn Dysynni a mountain and then see the pretty
Cemmaes
Abergynolwyn
Llanegryn Abergynolwyn Cemmaes village of Beddgelert. Discover
Anglesey from Beaumaris – enjoy the
Pen- Pen-y-Bonty-Bont
Bryn-crug
Bryn-crug castle and a cruise; see Moelfre’s
Pennal MACHYNLLETH
MACHYNLLETH
Pennal
Tywyn maritime memorials and then tour
Tywyn
the stately home of Plas Newydd.
For family fun, stay at Llandudno
Aberdovey
Aberdovey
Ysgubor-y-coed with its sandy beach, tramway and
Ysgubor-y-coed
Great Orme Neolithic mines. Head
Moel-y-ll
Moel-y-llynyn
521m
521m to Conwy for the castle and then
Betws-y-Coed for some tree-top fun.
For full details, see p157.
148-149_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 149 20/07/18 7:44 PM

150 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN















Above left Dark stone and painted house
façades in Machynlleth Above right Welsh 1 Machynlleth Continue on the A487 and take a sharp
hill-farming country on the drive to Brithdir Powys; SY20 8EE left on B4405 to Tal-y-Llyn, a stunningly
This historic market town is where beautiful glacial lake in the shadow of
Owain Glyndŵr first assembled his Cadair Idris. Enjoy a walk or take a boat
Parliament and was crowned as out onto the lake. Its shallow reedy beds
Prince of Wales in 1404. Owain started are stocked with brown trout, and the
his revolt against the English in 1400 lake is visited by sea trout and salmon
during the reign of Henry IV. In 1412, in October. Obtain permits for fishing at
after the revolt foundered, legends the lake from Tynycornel Hotel (01654
say that Owain went into hiding 782282; www.tynycornel.co.uk).
VISITING BEDDGELERT around Machynlleth; he was never ª Leave on the A487, then turn left
seen again. A copy of his seal can on the A470 towards Dolgellau and
Snowdonia National Park
Information Centre be seen in the Old Parliament House follow the signs to Brithdir church. Park
Canolfan Hebog, LL55 4YD; 01766 (Easter–Sep: closed Sun; Oct–Mar: call for on the B4416 at the church entrance.
890 615; www.eryri-npa.gov.uk; opening hours 01654 703 336). This low
open Apr–Oct stone house was actually built in the 2 Brithdir
16th century, but is now a museum Gwynedd; LL40 2SB
about Owain Glyndŵr. Brithdir’s major attraction is the Church
WHERE TO STAY
The Tabernacle, a Neo-Classical of St Mark. Its dark stone exterior
AROUND MACHYNLLETH Wesleyan chapel dating from the late conceals an Italian-style interior (open
Penrhos Arms Hotel moderate 18th century, has been converted to most of the year) with red-ochre walls
Enjoy pleasant rooms with crisp bed a centre for the performing arts. The and a blue-sky ceiling. Designed by
linens in this friendly, cosy country inn, MOMA Wales (open Mon–Sat; moma. Henry Wilson (known for his commis-
11 km (7 miles) northeast on the A470. machynlleth.org.uk) has evolved around sions for department store, Liberty’s)
Cemmaes, SY20 9PR; 01650 511 243;
www.penrhosarms.com it, with seven art galleries displaying and built 1895–98, it is one of the few
the work of Welsh artists from 1900. Art Nouveau churches in Wales. See
AROUND BRITHDIR Head north on the A487 for the the ebony and abalone inlay on the
Ffynnon expensive Centre for Alternative Technology doors and naturalistic carvings on
This award-winning boutique hotel is (open daily, closed late Dec–early Jan; the chestnut choir stall pews – squir-
in Dolgellau, 8 km (5 miles) southwest
of Brithdir. It has six luxurious rooms. www.cat.org.uk) for the eco-house, rels, rabbits, a tortoise and an owl – all
Ffynnon, Love Lane, Dolgellau, organic gardens, cliff railway and created in the Arts and Crafts tradition.
LL40 IRR; 01341 421 774; hands-on activities. Notice, too, the beaten copper panels
www.ffynnontownhouse.com on the pulpit and altar.
HARLECH CASTLE Below Leafy wooded avenue by the Art Nouveau ª Return to the A470 and follow the
Church of St Mark’s, Brithdir signs into Dolgellau. Once there, follow
Cemlyn Tea Shop moderate
There are just two en-suite rooms above
this lovely tea shop. One of them has
views of Harlech Castle and the sea.
High Street, LL46 2YA; 01766 780 425;
www.cemlynrestaurant.co.uk
BEDDGELERT
Sygun Fawr moderate
Lovely old house in pretty gardens,
with friendly atmosphere and lots of
character – try for a mountain view.
Take A498 north and then first right.
Beddgelert, LL55 4NE; 01766 890 258;
www.sygunfawr.co.uk



150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 150 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 14: Through Snowdonia National Park 151


signs for Tywyn until a sign to Cadair 4 Harlech Castle
Idris on the left. After 8 km (5 miles), Gwynedd; LL46 2YH
turn right to Llynnau Cregennan, Impressively situated on a bluff over
where there is a car park by the lake. Tremadog Bay, Harlech Castle (open
daily) was built between 1283–90 at
a cost of £8,190 by Edward I’s master
mason, James of St George, who
was also responsible for Caernarfon,
Conway and Beaumaris castles. One of
Edward’s “iron ring” of castles, Harlech
was designed to be supplied by sea, but
the waters have since receded, leaving
the castle high and dry. In 1404 Owain
Glyndŵr took the castle, using it for his
parliament. It was retaken after a long Above Stone houses overlooking the river at
siege in 1408 by Harry of Monmouth, Beddgelert, crossed by a rustic bridge
later Henry V. In the Wars of the Roses,
it endured the longest siege in British SHOPPING IN BEDDGELERT
history (1461–68) before being taken
by the Yorkists, giving rise to the well- Park on Maengwyn Street. There are
known military song “Men of Harlech”. car parks either side of the river.
Beddgelert Woodcraft stocks a wide
Above One of the many rivers running off the ª Continue on the A496 north and range of handcrafted wooden items
peaks around Beddgelert turn left, signed to Porthmadog. In including s and animals, Welsh
Penrhyndeudraeth, follow the signs lovespoons and other decor items.
3 Cadair Idris on the A4085 to Beddgelert. Beddgelert LL55 4YB; 01766 890 586;
Gwynedd www.beddgelertwoodcraft.com
A huge 11-km (7-mile) long ridge, 5 Beddgelert
892-m (2,927-ft)w high, Cadair Idris Gwynedd; LL55 4YE EAT AND DRINK
dom inates the surrounding area. Perhaps Snowdonia’s prettiest village,
The name means “Chair of Idris”, after Beddgelert has a lovely tea shop and MACHYNLLETH
the giant warrior of Welsh legend. It’s several cafés. The town is centred on Number Twenty One moderate
an area of outstanding beauty and a rustic bridge from where, along the Local suppliers provide the ingredients
very popular with walkers. The tough south bank of the river, a path leads to for dishes such as Rainbow trout and
minted sausage in this cosy bistro.
paths to the top from the waters of the supposed monument to Gelert, 21 Heol Maengwyn, SY20 8EB; 01654
Llynnau Cregennan take four to six Welsh ruler Llywelyn the Great’s 703 382; www.numbertwentyone.co.uk
hours to complete – on the way there deerhound. The story goes that, while AROUND BRITHDIR
are some standing stones and cairns Llywelyn was hunting, the dog saved
over 4,000 years old. Climb the small his child from a wolf. Seeing the blood, Gwyn Dylanwad Wine moderate
This wine shop in Dolgellau, about 8 km
hill just above the car park for splendid Llywelyn thought Gelert had killed his (5 miles) southeast of Brithdir, has an
views of Barmouth and Snowdonia. boy and slew him, only to find his son excellent café and bar. It is open in
ª Take the road up and down to the safe and the wolf dead. He set a cairn the evenings Thursday to Saturday.
A493 and turn right to Penmaenpool. of stones over the dog’s grave, Beth Porth Marchnad, Dolgellau, LL40 1ET;
Here, take a left over the toll bridge to Gelert. A short drive east on the A498, 01341 422 870; wwww.dylanwad.com
the A496. Turn left for Barmouth and lies the stunning Llyn Gwynant. HARLECH CASTLE
on to Harlech. Park in front of the castle. ª Turn left out of the car park onto Castle Cottage Restaurant expensive
the A498, then left onto the A4086 to An award-winning family-run restaurant
Below Impressive Harlech Castle, rising out of a Llanberis, left at the roundabout and in the heart of Harlech, Castle Cottage
nearly vertical cliffface right to the railway car park. adds a sophisticated twist to Welsh
produce, such as duet of Welsh beef
and roast suckling pig. There’s a good
wine list, and rooms, too.
High Street, LL46 2YL; 01766 780 479;
www.castlecottageharlech.co.uk
BEDDGELERT
Tanronnen Inn
inexpensive–moderate
For a traditional bar meal, head for this
busy inn, conveniently situated in the
centre of town. The inn has rooms and
also does packed lunches for day trips.
Beddgelert, LL55 4YB; 01766 890 347;
www.tanronnen.co.uk




150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 151 20/07/18 7:45 PM

152 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


rugged landscape. Inside the walls
are lined in timber and the window
affords thrilling views.
Nearby, the Electric Mountain Centre
(open daily: tours Easter–end Oct; 01286
870 636; www.electricmountain.co.uk) has
a café and activity rooms, and runs
tours of the Dinorwig Power Station,
deep in Europe’s largest man-made
cavern inside Elidir Mountain (not
suitable for wheelchair users or anyone
who suffers from claustrophobia).
Visit Dolbadarn Castle (open daily),
set on the hillside over the main road
beside the lake, Llyn Peris. Built in the
Above View of the snow covered peaks of 13th century by Llywelyn the Great, it is
Mount Snowdon 6 Mount Snowdon simple but masterful – the 12-m (40-ft)
Gwynedd; LL55 4TY tower once reached three storeys.
VISITING MOUNT SNOWDON A popular destination, Llanberis has Steam buffs will love the Llanberis
many significant attractions, not least Lake Railway (open late May–early Sep
Snowdonia National Park Information Wales’ highest mountain, Snowdon, daily; call at other times; 01286 870 549;
Electric Mountain Centre, Llanberis, at 1,085 m (3,560 ft). Walk to the top www.lake-railway.co.uk). The narrow-
LL55 4UR; 01286 870 500; www. or take the train. The 7.5-km (4-mile) gauge steam railway runs along the
visitsnowdonia.info; open May–Aug;
out of season, use the office in Betws-y- trip passes through stunning scenery pretty wooded lakeside. Nearby is the
Coed: 01690 710 426 and is perhaps the most exciting train National Slate Museum (open daily;
journey in the UK. The Snowdon closed Sat Nov–Easter; 0300 1112 333;
SHOPPING AROUND Mountain Railway (Apr–Oct: open daily; www.museumwales.ac.uk), telling the story
CAERNARFON Mar–Apr: partial service; 01286 870 223; of slate in a series of Victorian workshops
www.snowdonrailway.co.uk) is weather with talks and demonstrations.
Inigo Jones offers a broad range of
gifts made from slate, and tours dependent, so check beforehand. ª Take A4086 to Caernarfon. Head
of the workshop (Tudor Slate Works, At the top of Snowdon awaits into the centre and park by the castle.
Y Groeslon, LL54 7UE; 01286 830 242; Hafod Eryri, the railway terminus
www.inigojones.co.uk). and visitor centre. Britain’s highest 7 Caernarfon
building and possibly one of its most Gwynedd; LL55 2AY
WHERE TO STAY unusual was designed by architect Set by the Menai Straits and with sea
AROUND CAERNARFON Roy Hole, after the original 1930s access, Caernarfon is the ideal site for
Ty’n Rhos moderate café was demolished in 2006. a castle. Caernarfon Castle (open daily)
Comfortable country hotel less than Created from stone and slate and was built in 1283 as part of Edward I’s
8 km (5 miles) northeast of Caernarfon, with a large flat roof, Hafod Eryri does ring of castles to subjugate the Welsh.
off the A4866. Enjoy elegant rooms, not seem out of place in Snowdon’s With its polygonal towers and twin-
locally sourced food and serene gardens.
Seion, Llanddeiniolen, LL55 3AE; 01248
670 489; www.tynrhos.co.uk
Plas Dinas expensive
Enjoy a taste of country house living at
this 17th-century, grade II-listed house
on the A487 not far south of Caernarfon.
It has lovely gardens and elegant rooms,
and serves local bacon for breakfast.
Bontnewydd, LL54 7YF; 01286 830 214;
www.plasdinas.co.uk
BEAUMARIS
Ye Olde Bulls Head Inn moderate
This inn offers country-style bedrooms
with a modern touch. Next door, their
modern town house has colour-themed
rooms and luxurious bathrooms.
Castle Street, LL58 8AP; 01248 810 329;
www.bullsheadinn.co.uk
Right The award-winning Hafod Eryri visitor
centre at the summit of Snowdon




150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 152 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 14: Through Snowdonia National Park 153


turreted gateway, Caernarfon Castle is
a fine example of late 13th- and early
14th-century military architecture. The
colour-banded masonry was inspired
by Constantinople’s walls. King Edward
wanted the castle to be a royal resi-
dence and seat of government for
north Wales. Its symbolic status was
emphasized when Edward made sure
his son, the first English Prince of
Wales, was born here in 1284. It was
more recently used for the investiture
of the present Prince of Wales in 1969.
On the A4085, on the edge of town,
stands the Roman fort of Segontium
(open daily) dating from AD 77–78.
The large fort was built to control the
approach to Anglesey and see off Irish
seaborne raiders. It was in use until AD
395 and its internal layout is still visible.
ª Leave by A487 to Bangor. Take the Above left Caernarfon Castle, built to recall the
A5 left across Menai Suspension Bridge ceiling and lancet windows. However, walls of Constantinople Above top right A train
(1826). Take the A545 right to Beaumaris. the money ran out before the fortifi- at Llanberis, on the Snowdon Mountain Railway
Park by the pier or opposite the castle. cations had reached full height. Above right Cosy Beau’s Tea Room, in a historic
Seafaring types can take a cruise building close to the castle, Beaumaris
8 Beaumaris to see seals and puffins, or go wreck
Anglesey; LL58 8AP fishing. Book with Starida Sea Services EAT AND DRINK
With medieval, Georgian, Victorian and (01248 810 251; www.starida.co.uk).
Edwardian buildings and a wide range Take the coastal road north to the MOUNT SNOWDON
of shops, Beaumaris is an attractive tranquil tip of Anglesey, to Penmon Caban Cyf inexpensive
town for visitors. See the Church of Priory at the entrance to the Menai Near Llanberis, this restaurant uses
St Mary for the carved tomb of Joan, Straits. Founded in the 6th century, organic produce from its own garden.
Llywelyn the Great’s wife. The main it was destroyed by the Danes in the Yr Hen Ysgol, Brynrefail, LL55 3NR;
01286 685 500; www.caban-cyf.org;
draw here is Beaumaris Castle (open 10th century. The present St Seiriol’s open 9am–4pm daily
daily), a military masterpiece and the church dates from around 1140. Inside
last and largest of Edward I’s Welsh are some beautiful early stone Welsh Snowdon Mountain Railway Station
Café & Caffi y Copa at Hafod Eryri
castles. Built in 1295 with concentric crosses. The well, outside, is believed inexpensive
symmetry and four lines of defence, to to be part of the original 6th-century The café at Hafod Eryri on Snowdon’s
a design by Master James of St George, building, which would make it the summit offers baked savouries from the
it was meant to control the Menai oldest ecclesiastical site in Wales. Village Bakery, while the café at Llanberis
serves all-day brunch, snacks and tea.
Straits and there are great views of ª Leave on B5109, turn right onto the Snowdon Summit/Llanberis,
Snowdonia. The low-lying castle has A5025, turning right for Moelfre. Drive LL55 4TY; 01286 870 223;
16 towers and a chapel with a vaulted on to the seafront car park. www.snowdonrailway.co.uk
Heights Bar and Grill moderate
This traditional restaurant serves up
burgers, jacket potatoes, baguettes
and more substantial offerings.
74 High Street, Llanberis, LL55 4HB;
01286 238 235; www.castell-
caernarfon.co.uk
BEAUMARIS
Beau’s Tea Room inexpensive
This is the place to fill up on tea and
fresh bara brith served on antique
bone china. In a cosy 400-year-old
building, the café also sells hot meals.
30 Castle Street, LL58 8AP; 01248
811 010
Left Beaumaris Castle, the largest of
Edward I’s Welsh fortifications
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 153 20/07/18 7:45 PM

154 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

9 Moelfre
Anglesey; LL72 8LL
The sleepy village of Moelfre looks north into the Irish Sea, over the
ships going to and from Mersey port. This walk follows the headland
around the village, past memorials highlighting the dangers of the sea
and the bravery of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) crews.

A two-hour walking tour Monument to the Royal Charter 3, a
From the seafront car park, walk with passenger steam clipper returning
the sea on your right to the RNLI to Liverpool from Melbourne, which
Seawatch Centre 1 (Apr–Oct: open sank off the coast of Anglesey in
daily), which chronicles the island’s October 1859 during one of the
maritime and natural history, and the fiercest storms of the century. It was
lives of locals such as Richard Evans a catastrophe with 459 lives lost and
Above Cottages in the coastal village of who saved the lives of two boat crews. only 21 passengers and 18 crew
Moelfre, on the Island of Anglesey Outside, walk down to the sea to the surviving. No women or children
bronze sculpture of coxswain Evans survived. It was the highest death toll
MBE who retired in 1970. Then turn of any shipwreck off the Welsh coast
left and follow the coastal in the days before Moelfre
path to the RNLI Lifeboat had a lifeboat. Walk back
Station 2 (open daily; 01248 down the steps and up the
410 367; www.rnli.org), which path and take a right past
has information about the the caravans. Keep on the
work of the RNLI – run by RNLI logo at Moelfre track and cross the cattle
volunteers – who rescue Lifeboat Station grid, past a cottage and
hundreds of people a year onto the road. Turn left into
from the sea. Further along a housing estate, past the house Ty
the footpath, see terns, gannets Mawr followed by a school, a library
VISITING MOELFRE
and fulmars on the island of Ynys and Maes Hydryd. Continue straight
Moelfre, just offshore. Continue on and take a left past Ann’s Pantry, a
Parking
Free parking close to the village and a along the coast and go through family-run café and restaurant, and the
pay-and-display car park on seafront. two gates, up a slight hill and some Kinmel Arms Hotel, with fine ales and
Tourist Information steps and over a stile. Go through pub food. The car park is over the road.
Unit 26 Victoria Centre, Mostyn Street, another gate, and along a path. ª Drive back on the A5025, through
Llandudno, LL30 2NG; 01492 577 577; Walk down the path towards a small Pentraeth and under the A55 to
www.gonorthwales.co.uk bridge, over a stream, and then up Llanfair PG. Use the railway station car
the steps to the top. Here is the park beside James Pringle Weavers.
WHERE TO STAY
0 metres 250
AROUND MOELFRE
Llwydiarth Fawr moderate 0 yards 250
This Georgian home is at the heart of a Monument to Ynys
working farm about 10 km (6.5 miles) the Royal Charter Moelfre
from Moelfre. Its spacious, elegant
interior is furnished with antiques
and includes a library.
Llanerch-y-medd, LL71 8DF (take
A5108 out of Moelfre, at roundabout
take second exit onto A5025, turn
left, left again and bear left, then
take second right towards B5111 RNLI Lifeboat Station
and turn left; farm is on left); 01248
470 321; www.llwydiarth-fawr.co.uk Seawatch Centre
Siop y Rhos moderate School MOELFRE
Enjoy sea or mountain views at this Kinmel
sheltered farmhouse 3 km (2 miles) Arms
west of Moelfre. The extensive range
of breakfast options includes pancakes
and smoked salmon. Packed lunches
are available too.
Lligy, LL70 9PZ (01248 850 801;
www.stayinanglesey.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 154 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 14: Through Snowdonia National Park 155


Left Headland and Monument to the Royal
Charter, near Moelfre












EAT AND DRINK
0 Llanfairpwllgwyngyll- q Plas Newydd
gogerychwyrndrobwll- Anglesey; LL61 6DQ MOELFRE
llantysiliogogogoch Just outside Llanfair PG, Plas Newydd Ann’s Pantry inexpensive
Enjoy fresh locally sourced
Anglesey; LL61 5UJ (open mid-Feb–end Oct: daily; 01248 714 and Fairtrade produce at this
The name means “Church of St Mary 795) is the ancestral home of the café/bistro with sea views.
in the hollow of the white hazel trees, Marquess of Anglesey. The house There is a daily blackboard lunch
near a fierce whirlpool and the Church was redesigned in the 18th century menu, and the homemade
of St Tysilio, near the red cave.” Often by renowned architect James Wyatt cakes are a speciality.
Moelfre, LL72 8HL; 01248 410 386;
shortened to Llanfair PG or Llanfairpwll, in a mixture of Neo-Gothic and Neo- www.annspantry.co.uk
at 58 letters long it is the longest place Classical styles. It is set in parkland with
name in Britain. It was devised by the beautiful walks and dramatic views Kinmel Arms moderate
This pub offers good panoramic
Victorians to attract tourists. The train over the Menai Straits and Snowdonia. seafront views and a wide menu
station sign is the usual subject of The long dining room features an including daily specials, and is
photos. Nearby is the Marquess of 18-m (58-ft) mural of a mythological popular with the locals.
Anglesey’s Column (closed for reno- harbour scene, painted c.1936–40 by Moelfre Bay, LL72 8LL;
vation), a 27-m (89-ft) monument to artist and set designer Rex Whistler, 01248 410 231
Henry William Paget who lost his leg who died in World War II. There is LLANFAIRPWLL
at the Battle of Waterloo. Climb the a small military museum about the Tafarn Ty Gwyn inexpensive
115 steps for a fabulous panorama. 1st Marquess of Anglesey, who was Lively village pub with good
Pose for a picture by the name sign the Duke of Wellington’s cavalry food at reasonable prices.
above James Pringle Weavers (open commander at the Battle of Waterloo. 8 Holyhead Road, LL61 5UJ;
01248 715 599
daily; 01248 717 171), a thriving ª Take the A4085, turn right onto
knitwear outlet and souvenir shop. the A5 and right again onto the A55
ª Turn right out of the car park onto to cross back to the mainland. Take the
Holyhead Road, then right onto A4080 A5 at exit 11 signed to Betws-y-Coed. Below left Llanfairpwllgwyngyllgogerych-
to Plas Newydd (signed) and car park. In the town centre, turn left over the wyrndrobwllllantysiliogogogoch Below
A shuttle takes visitors to the house. bridge to the car park. Neo-Gothic and Neo-Classical Plas Newydd




















Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 155 20/07/18 7:45 PM

156 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


waterfalls. Several walks start from
the ancient Pont-y-Pair bridge,
built in 1468, in the town centre.
Those looking for more extreme
activities can go rock climbing,
abseiling or canyoning, or try
the fun-filled treetop nets.
ª From the car park, take B5106
north to Trefriw. Park across the road
from the mills by the war memorial.
e Trefriw Woollen Mills
Conwy; LL27 0NQ
Established in 1859 and run ever since
by the Williams family, Trefriw Woollen
Mills (museum open Apr–Oct: Mon–Fri;
shop open daily in summer, closed Sun in
Above The highest waterfall in Wales, Swallow winter; 01492 640 462; www.t-w-m.co.uk)
Falls, Betws-y-Coed w Betws-y-Coed use 50-year-old machines and do
Conwy; LL24 0HD their own blending, spinning, dying
The principal village in the Snowdonia and weaving. The mill is best known
VISITING BETWS-Y-COED National Park, Betws-y-Coed, the for its double-weave blankets. There
Snowdonia National Park “prayer house in the wood”, is a is a weavers’ garden with a display of
Information Centre popular tourist spot along with the the plants that provide fibres, soap and
Royal Oak Stables, LL24 0AH; nearby Swallow Falls, the highest natural dyes and, in summer, there are
01690 710 426 continuous waterfall in weaving demonstrations.
Adventure Activities Wales. Nestled in a wooded Walk or drive alongside the
For rock climbing and canyoning valley at the confluence of river that supplies the mill, to
activities, including lessons, try the rivers Conwy, Llugwy and the lakes of Llyn Geirionydd
Seren Ventures (Adventure Centre, Lledr, it is well appointed and Llyn Crafnant. A café
Vicarage Road, LL24 0AD; 01690 710
754; www.serenventures.com). Zip with galleries, cafés, shops, beside Llyn Crafnant has
World Forest (Llanrwst Road, LL24 pubs and hotels. Its oldest great cakes and ice cream
0HA; 01248 601 444; www.zipworld. building is the 14th-century (open Mar–Oct).
co.uk) offers zip wire rides and treetop St Michael’s Church (Easter– ª Turn right out of the car
playground, suitable for all ages.
Oct: open daily) with a stone park to leave Trefriw on the
effigy of Gruffydd ap Dafydd Traditional designs at B5106 north to Conwy, and
WHERE TO STAY Goch, related to Llywelyn, Trefriw Woollen Mills pass through the break in
the last free Welsh Prince of the city wall. At the
AROUND BETWS-Y-COED Wales. The countryside around roundabout, turn left into Rose Hill
Pengwern Guesthouse moderate Betws-y-Coed offers rivers, pools and Street and park next to the castle.
This immaculate country house, run by
Welsh-speaking hosts, is a short distance Below Betwys-y-Coed, nestled in a deep wooded valley at the confluence of three rivers
south on the A5. Local produce for
breakfast, free Wi-Fi and fine views.
Allt Dinas, LL24 0HF; 01690 710 480;
www.snowdoniaaccommodation.co.uk
St Curig’s Church moderate
Snuggle up in this cosy converted
church about 8 km (5 miles) west on
the A5. There are original stained-glass
windows, and a hot tub in the garden.
Capel Curig, LL24 0EL; 07980 619 139;
www.stcurigschurch.com
CONWY
Sychnant Pass House
moderate
Situated about 3 km (2 miles) west of
Conwy this is a friendly and relaxed
country guesthouse, with comfortable
rooms, highly rated food, and a
swimming pool and hot tub.
Sychnant Pass Road, LL32 8BJ; 01492 596
868; www.sychnant-pass-house.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 156 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 14: Through Snowdonia National Park 157














Above left Inside the impressive outer ward in
r Conwy ª Leave Conwy on A547 over the World Heritage status Conwy Castle Above
Conwy; LL32 8AY bridge and take A546 left to Llandudno. centre The Knights Shop, selling suits of
At the mouth of an estuary spanned Head for the seafront and promenade. armour opposite Conwy Castle Above right
by Telford’s 1826 suspension bridge, Small fishing station on pretty Conwy Estuary
Conwy is best known for its castle t Llandudno
(open daily). It was built by Master James Conwy; LL30 2RP EAT AND DRINK
of St George in four years (1283–87) Wales’ largest seaside resort, Llandudno
using local stone. The castle and the lies in a wide bay sheltered by two BETWS-Y-COED
medieval town walls have World limestone headlands, the Ormes. Most Ty Gwyn Hotel moderate
Heritage status and are Britain’s finest of the town was out in 1849 with This former coaching inn offers a range
example of a bastide or fortified town, grand buildings, a promenade – the of restaurant and bar meals.
with 21 towers, three double gateways Parade – and the longest pier in Wales. Betws-y-Coed, LL24 0SG; 01690 710
383; www.tygwynhotel.co.uk
and a 1,280-m (4,200-ft) long wall. The Great Orme is a 207-m (679-ft)
There are other interesting historic high promontory reached by road, AROUND TREFRIW
buildings in the town. Aberconwy cable car (Apr–Oct: open daily) and a WOOLLEN MILLS
House (Mar–Oct: open daily; Nov & Dec: funicular tramway (Apr–Oct: open daily) Chandlers Brasserie moderate
open Sat & Sun) is a 14th-century mer- with spectacular views from the top. Located on the B5106, this restaurant
serves imaginative Welsh dishes and
chant’s house with period displays. Explore the Great Orme Mines (Mar– has a good selection of cocktails.
Plas Mawr (Apr–Sep: open daily) is one Oct: open daily; www.greatormemines.info), Trefriw, LL27 0JH; 01492 642 458; www.
of the finest surviving Elizabethan the world’s largest Bronze-Age copper www.chandlersbrasserie.co.uk; closed
town houses (1558–1603); admire its mine, through tunnels dug over 3,500 Mon & Tue
symmetry, the crow-stepped gables years ago. The Great Orme is a good CONWY
and pedimented windows. The Potters place for walking following the signed The Mulberry moderate
Gallery (www.thepottersgallery.co.uk) nature trails, and winter sports fans will This pub on the Marina serves a range
further down the High Street has a enjoy skiing or tobogganing at the of dishes and traditional ales.
great collection of local ceramics. And Llandudno Ski and Snowboard Centre Ellis Way, Marina; LL32 8GU; 01492 583
350; www.robinsonsbrewery.com
finally, on Conwy Quay, squeeze into (open daily; www.jnlllandudno.co.uk).
the Smallest House in Britain (Apr–Oct: Among the town’s other attractions Watsons Bistro moderate
Enjoy contemporary Welsh fare at this
open daily) – it is 2.75 m (9 ft) high and is the outstanding contemporary art bistro tucked under the old town walls.
1.5 m (5 ft) wide and was last owned gallery Oriel Mostyn (01492 879 201; 26 Chapel Street, LL32 8BP; 01492 596
by a 2-m (over 6-ft) tall fisherman! www.mostyn.org) in Vaughan Street. 326; www.watsonsbistroconwy.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Exploring Snowdonia learn about the island’s maritime history.
Several stops along the route make From Caernarfon 7, see the castle Then tour the beautiful home of the
ideal bases from which to explore before heading for Llanberis, and a train Marquess of Anglesey, Plas Newydd q.
the area’s spectacular scenery, ride up Mt Snowdon 6. Then travel Follow the drive’s instructions.
historic sites and visitor attractions. through a mountain with the Electric
Mountain Centre. Finally, drive to pretty Family Fun
A Photographers’ Treat Beddgelert 5 for the stunning scenery. Explore the beach, take the tram up the
Starting from historic Machynlleth 1, Great Orme to see the copper mines at
visit beautiful Tal-y-Llyn and enjoy Take the A4086 and A498; but return to Llandudno t, then head to Conwy r
boating or fishing on the lake. Carry on Caernarfon via the A4085. to tour the castle and have lunch. Drive
to Brithdir 2, to see the church and into the heart of Snowdonia to Betws-
head to Llynnau Cregennan for a walk Anglesey Adventure y-Coed w, for a walk to Swallow Falls
in the shadow of Cadair Idris 3. Staying at Beaumaris 8, see the castle or thrilling tree-top adventure.
and enjoy a morning cruise around
Follow the drive’s instructions. Puffin Island. Head to Moelfre 9, and Take the A470 and A55.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


150-157_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 157 20/07/18 7:45 PM

158-159_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 158 30/03/2017 14:16
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 15 Liverpool ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol Bristol Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol London Cardiff London Cardiff London
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Along Offa’s
Dyke
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness From Ludlow
Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham to Holywell
ENGLAND
Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London London London
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Highlights Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
• England’s finest market town
Wander through Ludlow’s historic
centre with its half-timbered
buildings, medieval street plan,
ancient church and mighty castle
• Stately castle homes
Explore the beautiful residences of
Powis, Chirk and Bodelwyddan
Inverness
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness castles, packed full of interesting
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND artifacts and set in magical grounds
SCOTLAND
Glasgow
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh • Heaven on earth Edinburgh
Spend some time at Llangollen, with
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle its society haunts, looming hilltop
Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND castle, ancient ruined abbey and
spectacular canal and aqueduct
• The Lourdes of Wales
Take the waters at Holywell – probably
the oldest pilgrimage site in Britain,
and appreciate its air of piety and faith
View of the Long Mynd, a series of dramatic
hills in Shropshire
158-159_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 159 30/03/2017 14:16

160 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Along Offa’s Dyke

This drive takes the visitor from the English borders over Presta
Prestatyntyn
Llanasa
Wenlock Edge and around the Long Mynd, an ancient Rhy Rhyll Llanasa D e e D e e
hog’s-back ridge, into the beautiful Welsh countryside. The route
BODELWYDDAN
now runs parallel to Offa’s impressive but ultimately ineffective Aber Abergelegele BODELWYDDAN HOLYWELL
CASTLE
CASTLE
HOLYWELL
dyke, heading north to the estuary of the River Dee. On the Flint Flint
Tremeirchion
Llanfair
Llanfair
way, the drive winds past the remains of once-mighty castles Talhaiarn ST ASAPH Trefnant Tremeirchion Connah’s
ST ASAPH
Connah’s
Talhaiarn
Trefnant
Quay
and still grand country houses, and Thomas Telford’s fabulous Henllan Northop Quay
Henllan
Northop
feat of engineering, the aqueduct on the Llangollen Canal at DENBIGH Waen FLINTSHIRE
FLINTSHIRE
Waen
DENBIGH
Llandyrnog
Pontcysyllte, which dates from 1805. There are cultural and ST DYFNOG’S Pentre- Llandyrnog Mold
Mold
ST DYFNOG’S
Pentre-
Buckley
CHURCH
Llanrhaeadr
spiritual highlights, too. See a copy of William Morgan’s first Aled Aled CHURCH Llanrhaeadr Buckley
Leeswood
DENBIGH-
Rhewl
translation of the Bible into Welsh in the Cathedral at St Asaph DENBIGH- Rhewl Treuddyn Leeswood
Treuddyn
SHIRE RUTHIN
and the “Jesse Tree” window of St Dyfnog’s Church, and Llyn Llyn SHIRE RUTHIN Caergwrle
Caergwrle
Brenig
experience the tranquillity of St Winefride’s Well in Holywell. Brenig Pen Pentrecelyntrecelyn Llanarmon Moss Moss
Llanarmon
Clawdd-newydd
Clawdd-newydd
WREXHAM
WREXHAM
Llanehdan
Llanehdan Wrexham
Wrexham
Alwen
Alwen
Horseshoe Pass
Gwy Gwyddelwernddelwern Horseshoe Pass
Valle Crucis Abbey Eyton
Valle Crucis Abbey
Eyton
Maer Maerdydy Dee Dee LLANGOLLEN
LLANGOLLEN
Corwen Carr
Corwen Carrogog Pontcysyllte
Pontcysyllte
Overton
D ee D ee Cyn Cynwydwyd Overton
B e r w y n CHIRK Chirk Chirk
B e r w y n
CHIRK
Ellesmere
Llandrilloillo
Llandr CASTLE Ellesmere
CASTLE
Llanarmon
Llanarmon Pandy Gobowen
Pandy
Gobowen
Dyffryn-Ceiriog
Dyffryn-Ceiriog
Rhiwlas
Cadair Berwyn Rhiwlas
Cadair Berwyn
Whittington
827m 827m Whittington
Oswestry
Oswestry Rednal
Rednal
Llanrhaeadr-ym-
Llanrhaeadr-ym-
Llangynog Mochnant
Bagley
Llangynog Mochnant Bagley
Trefonen
Trefonen
West Felton
West Felton
Pen-y-
Pen-y- Tanat Knockin
Knockin
Tanat
bont-fawr
bont-fawr
Llanymynech
Llanymynech Walford
Walford
Llanfyllin
Llanfyllin
Llandysilio
Llandysilio Great Ness
Great Ness
Llanfihangel
Llanfihangel Arddleen Llandrinio
Llandrinio
Arddleen
POWYS
POWYS Severn Shrawardine
Shrawardine
Severn
Middletown
Dolanog
Dolanog Meifod Guilsfield Middletown Shr Shrewsburyewsbury
Meifod
Guilsfield
Trewern
Above Ruins of Denbigh Castle, overlooking the surrounding countryside, see p166 Trewern
Llangyniew Great Great
Llangyniew
WELSHPOOL Hanwood
Hanwood
WELSHPOOL
Condover
Llanfair-
Llanfair- Longden Condover
Longden
Leighton
Caereinion Leighton Dorrington
Caereinion
Dorrington
Marton
SHROPSHIRE
Manafon Severn Severn Marton SHROPSHIRE
Manafon
ACTIVITIES Garthmyl Chirbury Pennerley Picklescott
Pennerley Picklescott
GarthmylChirbury
Tregynon
Tregynon Leebotwood
Leebotwood
MONT
The Long Mynd
MONTGOMERYGOMERY
Bridges
CASTLE
Learn about old rural crafts at Acton Scott Farm Museum CASTLE Bridges Church Stretton
Church Stretton
Church Stoke The Long Mynd
Church Stoke
Newtown
Newtown
Look out for distinctive red kites hovering over Powis Castle Below Bodenham’s, one of many striking Lydham Ticklerton Shipton
Ticklerton Shipton
Lydham
half-timbered buildings in Ludlow, see p162 ACT ACTON SCOTTON SCOTT
Be pulled by a historic steam locomotive through the Welsh Bishop’s Castle FARM MUSEUM
Bishop’s Castle
FARM MUSEUM
Cleobury
countryside on the Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway Cleobury
Westhope
Acton
Acton Edgton Westhope Abdon North
Abdon North
Edgton
Craven
Clamber up to Castell Dinas Bran for the astonishing views Newcastle Craven Culmington
Newcastle
Culmington
Arms
Arms
Clun Clun Clun Clun
Glide over the 38-m (125-ft) high Pontcysyllte Aqueduct Stanton Lacy
Stanton Lacy
Clungunford
Cleobury
in a canal barge Clungunford Bitterley Cleobury
Bitterley
Bromfield Mortimer
Bromfield
Mortimer
LUDLOWOW
Bucknell
Step through 600 years of housing history in Ruthin Bucknell LUDL Knowbury
Knowbury
Walford
Walford
Ashford
Follow a nature trail in the grounds of Bodelwyddan Castle Ashford
Bowdler
Bowdler
Wigmore
Wigmore
Take the healing waters at the Lourdes of Wales, Holywell
160-161_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 160 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke 161


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Presta Start/finish: Ludlow to Holywell.
Prestatyntyn
Llanasa
Rhy Rhyll Llanasa
Number of days: 4, allowing half a day
D e e
D e e
at Ludlow and half a day at Llangollen.
BODELWYDDAN
BODELWYDDAN
Aber Abergelegele CASTLE HOLYWELL Distance: About 207 km (129 miles).
CASTLE
HOLYWELL
Flint Flint
Tremeirchion
Llanfair
Llanfair Tremeirchion Road conditions: Good, well-paved
ST ASAPH
Connah’s
Talhaiarn
Talhaiarn ST ASAPH Trefnant Connah’s
Trefnant
Quay and signposted.
Quay
Henllan
Henllan Northop
Northop
FLINTSHIRE
Waen
DENBIGH
DENBIGH Waen Llandyrnog FLINTSHIRE When to go: Spring and summer is
Llandyrnog
best for walks in the hills.
Mold
ST DYFNOG’S
Aled Aled ST DYFNOG’S Pentre- Mold Buckley
Pentre-
Buckley
CHURCH
CHURCH
Llanrhaeadr
Llanrhaeadr
Leeswood
DENBIGH-
DENBIGH- Rhewl Leeswood Opening times: Galleries, museums
Rhewl
and attractions are generally open
Treuddyn
Treuddyn
SHIRE RUTHIN
SHIRE RUTHIN Caergwrle 10am–5pm, but often close earlier Nov–
Caergwrle
Llyn Llyn
Brenig
Brenig Easter. Shops are often open longer.
Llanarmon Moss Moss
Llanarmon
Pen Pentrecelyntrecelyn
Clawdd-newydd Churches are usually open until dusk.
Clawdd-newydd
WREXHAM
WREXHAM
Llanehdan
Llanehdan Wrexham Main market days: Ludlow: 4 days a
Wrexham
Alwen
Alwen
Horseshoe Pass
Gwy Gwyddelwernddelwern Horseshoe Pass Above Beautiful lakeside woodland at week, Castle Square; Welshpool: 1st
Valle Crucis Abbey
Valle Crucis Abbey Eyton Dingle Nursery and Garden, see p163 Sat of month, Farmers’ Market, Coed-
Eyton
Maer Maerdydy Dee Dee LLANGOLLEN y-Dinas; Llangollen: Fri am, Town Hall;
LLANGOLLEN
Corwen Carr
Corwen Carrogog Pontcysyllte Denbigh: last Fri of month, Town Hall;
Pontcysyllte
Overton
D ee D ee Cyn Cynwydwyd Overton Holywell: Thu am.
B e r w y n CHIRK Chirk Chirk KEY
B e r w y n
CHIRK
Ellesmere
Llandr CASTLE Ellesmere Shopping: Plenty of Shropshire
Llandrilloillo
CASTLE
Llanarmon Pandy Gobowen Drive route produce and local foods around
Pandy
Llanarmon
Gobowen
Dyffryn-Ceiriog
Dyffryn-Ceiriog
Rhiwlas
Cadair Berwyn
Cadair Berwyn Rhiwlas Ludlow and pottery at St Asaph.
Whittington
827m 827m Whittington
Carved wooden lovespoons can be
Rednal
Oswestry Rednal
Oswestry
Llanrhaeadr-ym- found all over Wales.
Llanrhaeadr-ym-
Llangynog Mochnant
Bagley
Llangynog Mochnant Bagley 0 kilometres 10
Trefonen
Trefonen
West Felton
West Felton Major festivals: Ludlow: Arts festival,
Pen-y-
Pen-y- Tanat Knockin 0 miles 10
Tanat
Knockin
bont-fawr
bont-fawr Jun–Jul; Food Festival, mid-Sep
Llanymynech
Llanymynech Walford
Walford
Llanfyllin
Llanfyllin (www.foodfestival.co.uk); St Asaph:
Llandysilio
Llandysilio Great Ness North Wales International Music
Great Ness
Llanfihangel Arddleen Llandrinio Festival, end Sep (www.nwimf.com);
Llanfihangel
Llandrinio
Arddleen
POWYS Severn Shrawardine Llangollen: International Musical
POWYS
Shrawardine
Severn
Middletown
Dolanog Meifod Guilsfield Middletown Eisteddfod, Jul.
Dolanog
Meifod
Guilsfield
Trewern
Trewern Shr Shrewsburyewsbury
Llangyniew
Llangyniew Great Great
WELSHPOOL Hanwood
Hanwood
WELSHPOOL
Condover
Llanfair- Longden Condover DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Llanfair-
Longden
Leighton
Caereinion Leighton Dorrington
Caereinion
Dorrington
Severn Severn
Marton
SHROPSHIRE
Manafon Marton SHROPSHIRE Families will enjoy staying at Ludlow
Manafon
Pennerley Picklescott
GarthmylChirbury
Garthmyl Chirbury Pennerley Picklescott to visit the castle and a farm museum
Tregynon
Tregynon Leebotwood for a picnic, before heading to
Leebotwood
MONTGOMERYGOMERY
The Long Mynd
MONT
Bridges
CASTLE Bridges Church Stretton Welshpool for the steam train and
CASTLE
Church Stretton
Church Stoke The Long Mynd maybe a tour of the castle. Alternatively,
Church Stoke
Newtown
Newtown
Ticklerton Shipton
Lydham Ticklerton Shipton spend a day near Llangollen – climb a
Lydham
ACT ACTON SCOTTON SCOTT hill to the castle, walk along a canal,
Bishop’s Castle FARM MUSEUM see the aqueduct, admire the views at
Bishop’s Castle
FARM MUSEUM
Cleobury
Cleobury
Westhope
Acton
Acton Edgton Westhope Abdon North Horseshoe Pass, visit an abbey, then
Abdon North
Edgton
Craven
Newcastle
Newcastle Craven drive to Chirk Castle for its interiors
Culmington
Arms
Arms Culmington and gardens. For those interested in
Clun Clun Clun Clun
Stanton Lacy
Stanton Lacy cultural and religious treasures, see
Clungunford Bitterley Cleobury
Clungunford
Cleobury
Bitterley
Bromfield Mortimer Denbigh’s castle and churches, the
Bromfield
Mortimer
LUDLOWOW
Bucknell LUDL Welsh Bible at St Asaph, treasures
Bucknell
Knowbury and gardens at Bodelwyddan Castle,
Knowbury
Walford
Walford
Ashford
Ashford the pilgrimage site and well at
Bowdler
Bowdler
Wigmore
Wigmore Holywell, and the Jesse window at
St Dyfnog’s. For full details, see p167.
160-161_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 161 20/07/18 7:45 PM

162 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Ludlow
Shropshire; SY8 1AS
The market town of Ludlow is a great base for exploring the glorious
Marches countryside. Growing from the wealth of the medieval wool
trade, Ludlow became an important political centre. Much of its
medieval street pattern has survived almost intact and there are
some fine examples of timber-framed buildings and a ruined castle.
This walk gives a good introduction to the town.

A two-hour walking tour with its carved half-timbered frontage.
From Mill Street, turn left to 11th- The balconies were added in the 19th
century Ludlow Castle 1 (open daily), cen tury. Go back up the street, admir-
one of a series of Norman castles built ing the woodwork on the buildings.
in the Marches to control the Welsh. Turn right and head back to the Butter
Return to Castle Square, and across Cross 6, which was rebuilt in 1744 in
Mill Street on the right to the Assembly Neo-Classical style as a town hall and
Rooms 2 – a Tourist Information served as a butter market. Take a right
Centre and museum with local his- past Barclays Bank to St Laurence’s
tory and geology exhibits. Church 7. Established in
Continue down the narrow the 11th century and rebuilt
Market Street and turn right in 1199, this was heavily
Above Carved wooden façade of the Feathers into the fine Broad Street 3. modified in the 15th century.
Hotel, Ludlow Appreciate the seamless mix Look out for the tomb of
of timber-framed Tudor and Arthur Tudor (Henry VII’s son)
VISITING LUDLOW ele gant brick buildings. Return and the carved misericords
up Broad Street and turn right of medieval scenes. Climb
Parking into King Street towards the the 42-m (138-ft) tower for
Follow signs to town centre and park rebuilt 15th-century toll house, fabulous views. Admire the
as near as possible to Castle Square. The The Tolsey 4. Now occupied Carved stone arch stained glass – the Palmer’s
nearest cark park is Castle Street. There at Ludlow Castle
is another one at Smithfields, which by solicitors’ offices and window tells of King Edward
entails a steep walk into the centre. shops, this is where tax was the Confessor’s visit to
col lected for cattle brought for sale at the Holy Land. The cherry trees in the
Tourist Information
1 Mill Street, SY8 1AZ; 01584 875 053; the market. At the Old Bull Ring pub, graveyard commemorate the poet
www.shropshiretourism.co.uk turn left onto Bull Ring and continue A E Housman (1859–1936), author of
to the Feathers Hotel 5, built in 1619, A Shropshire Lad, whose ashes are
WHERE TO STAY
0 metres 200
LUDLOW Feathers
Hotel
The Feathers moderate 0 yards 200
Choose a room in the oldest part of St Laurence’s
this picturesque and central hotel for the CO LL EG E STR E E T Church BULL RING
The
most original features. Local produce Tolsey
features on the restaurant menu.
21 Bull Ring, SY81AA; 01584 875 261; K IN G S T RE E T
www.feathersatludlow.co.uk CHURCH ST Butter Cross
Ludlow Castle HIGH ST
AROUND LUDLOW CASTLE ST MARKET ST
CASTLE CASTLE ST
The Clive moderate SQUARE
This former farmhouse, north of Ludlow Assembly
on the A49, has 15 immaculate en-suite Rooms B R O A D S T R E E T
rooms and serves fresh produce for
breakfast. It also has a superb restaurant
and bar, open to non-residents. D I N H A M
Bromfield, SY8 2JR; 01584 856 565; M I L L S T R E E T
www.theclive.co.uk
WELSHPOOL
The Royal Oak Hotel moderate
Once a Georgian coaching inn, this hotel
has comfortable boutique-style rooms
with a contemporary or classic decor.
The Cross, SY21 7DG; 01938 552 217;
www.royaloakwelshpool.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
162-167_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 162 20/07/18 8:17 PM

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke 163

EAT AND DRINK
LUDLOW
The French Pantry moderate
This tiny, unpretentious restaurant
offers a taste of France with friendly
service. Try the smoked salmon and Brie
strudel, followed by delicious desserts.
15 Tower Street, SY8 1RL; 01584 879
133; www.thefrenchpantry.co.uk
Koo moderate
It’s a welcome surprise to find such
good­value Japanese cuisine in Ludlow.
Enjoy sparkling fresh food that looks
Above View of the Shropshire countryside around Ludlow too good to eat. The service is friendly
and the restaurant is very popular.
127 Old Street, SY8 1NU; 01584 878
buried in the church wall near the of the Severn flowing south on the right. 462; www.koo-ook.co.uk
West Door. Exit the church and return Fork left onto the A490 into Welshpool.
to King Street. Turn right and carry on Park in Church Street in the town centre. Mortimer’s expensive
Dishes served in this oak­panelled
down Church Street to Castle Square, 16th­century townhouse are superb.
turning left to return to Mill Street. 4 Welshpool The set menus consist of either three
ª Take A49 towards Shrewsbury, then Powys; SY21 8RF or seven courses, with excellent veg­
B4365 right to a T-junction (B4368). Turn Set in the picturesque countryside of etarian options. Service is obliging.
left, then first right to Ticklerton and the the Severn Valley, Welshpool makes 17 Corve Street, SY8 1DA; 01584 872
325; www.mortimersludlow.co.uk
museum, 2 km (1½ miles) beyond. an excellent base for exploring the
surrounding area. The big attraction, WELSHPOOL
2 Acton Scott Farm Museum off the A490 into town (with car Corn Store moderate
Shropshire; SY6 6QN park, or a 1­km/2­mile walk across This bright and buzzing restaurant in the
heart of town is family­friendly and serves
This living history farm museum parkland), is stunning Powis Castle a wide­ranging menu with dishes to
(Apr–Oct: open Sat–Wed) recreates life (open daily except Christmas Day). satisfy both carnivores and vegetarians.
on a Shropshire farm at the turn of the Originally a 13th­century fort, it is the 4 Church Street, SY21 7DL; 01938 554
last century. Visitors are returned to only Welsh castle to have remained a 614; closed Sun & Mon
the days of shire horses, hay ricks and residence from the medieval to the AROUND WELSHPOOL
milkmaids, and the farm is stocked modern period. The castle’s golden Seeds moderate
with pigs, poultry, cows and sheep, age was in Stuart times, when it was Quirky little restaurant in a cottage 18
including some rare breeds. Kids will acquired by the Herbert family (1587) km (11 miles) north of Welshpool on the
enjoy the daily demonstrations by and altered extensively. In 1784, A490, with a reputation for serving great
farm workers dressed in period cos­ Henrietta Herbert married Edward food. The menu features gems such as
tumes. There are also waymarked Clive, the son of Clive of India. Clive’s home­potted shrimps and rack of Welsh
lamb, and also vegetarian dishes.
walks starting from the farm. collection in the museum is probably 5 Penybryn Cottage, High Street,
ª Turn left from car park and straight the greatest display of Indian Mughal Llanfyllin, SY22 5AP; 01691 648 604;
across to A49. Turn right, then left onto art outside the subcontinent. closed Mon & Tue
B4370, then take A489 right. Next take The “red castle” (Castell Coch in
the B4385 to castle and car park. Welsh) sits in a delightful Baroque Below The imposing red Powis Castle, set in
17th­century Italianate terraced exquisite terraced gardens
3 Montgomery Castle garden dotted with sculptures and
Powys; SY15 6HN manicured hedges. Look out, too, for
It was the Norman knight Roger de sentinel red kites that hover above.
Montgomerie (the very first Earl of At the western edge of town, the
Shrewsbury) who built the first fort Welshpool & Llanfair Light Railway
here in c.1070 – the motte and bailey (Aug: open daily; Mar–Oct: times vary;
Hen Domen at the bottom of Castle 01938 810 441; www.wllr.org.uk), built
Hill. The present castle (open daily) in 1903, takes visitors on a 26­km
was built in 1223 during the reign of (16­mile) round trip through rural
Henry III to defend the border against Powys on a narrow­gauge steam rail­
the Welsh prince, Llywelyn the Great way. The Dingle Nursery and Garden
(1173–1240). It was demolished (open daily; www.dinglenurseries.co.uk) at
during the Civil War. There are great Frochas, north of Welshpool on the
views out over a wide expanse of A490, has a superb small garden.
countryside to the north and east. ª Continue along the A490, then A483
ª Head northwest on the B4385, join- and A5, taking the B5070 to Chirk. Follow
ing the A483 north, with the floodplain signs left for Chirk Castle (with car park).
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


162-167_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 163 20/07/18 8:17 PM

164 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


6 Llangollen
Denbighshire; LL20 8AW
British Prime Minister and Welshman
David Lloyd George (1863–1945)
described the area around Llangollen
as “a little bit of heaven on earth”.
Llangollen itself is best known for the
International Musical Eisteddfod. This
was set up in 1947 to encourage good
relations between all nations after
World War II. The town gets very busy
during the festival in July. Visit the black
and white, ornately half­timbered
Plas Newydd (open daily mid-Feb–Oct),
the former home of the “Ladies of
Llangollen”, Lady Eleanor Butler and
Miss Sarah Ponsonby, who ran away
from Ireland together to live here
between 1780 and1829. Famed in
Regency society, their visitors included
Above left Decorative topiary in the grounds the Duke of Wellington, Wordsworth,
of Chirk Castle Top right Pub sign, Llangollen 5 Chirk Castle Byron, Shelley and the Darwins. Above
Bottom right The ruins of Valle Crucis Abbey, Wrexham; LL14 5AF the town looms 213­m (700­ft) the
set in glorious countryside Built as a border fortress at the end of ruins of Castell Dinas Bran. Follow the
the 13th century by Roger Mortimer, a path marked from the Canal Wharf
warlord of Edward I, Chirk Castle (open bridge up to the top for superb views.
WHERE TO STAY daily Mar–Oct; grounds: open daily all The 74­km (46­mile) Llangollen Canal,
AROUND CHIRK CASTLE year) is full of beautiful furniture and
The West Arms Hotel moderate paintings. It was bought in the 16th Offa’s Dyke
The drive to this ancient inn set in the century by Sir Thomas Myddleton; his The Anglo­Saxon King Offa of
tranquil Ceiriog Valley is long – but a descendants hired Augustus Pugin Mercia (AD 757–96) is best known
real treat. The hotel is 18 km (11 miles) (1812–52), Gothic revivalist and archi­ for his dyke, a defensive earthwork,
west of Chirk on the B4500 with pretty tect of the Houses of Parliament, to running north to south, built to
en­suite rooms and lovely views. protect the border between Mercia
Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog, LL20 7LD; carry out major alterations. There are and Wales. Built from AD 780–90, it
01691 600 665; www.thewestarms.co.uk also some wonderful Neo­Classical was up to 27 m (88 ft) wide and 8 m
rooms by architect Joseph Turner. The (26 ft) high, with probably a wall
LLANGOLLEN library has many fine books, and the or palisade at the top. However, it
Gales of Llangollen moderate garden, with dramatic clipped yews, is was of limited success and was
This hotel has 15 en­suite rooms with soon overrun. Today, the 285­km
original features, plus antique and brass a highlight. There is also an impressive (177­mile) Offa’s Dyke Footpath
beds. Some rooms are over the wine bar, set of intricate iron­lacework gates. (www.nationaltrail.co.uk/offasdyke)
others in a timber­framed building. ª Take B5070 north to A5 and on to is a pretty national trail passing
18 Bridge Street, LL20 8PF; 01978 860 Llangollen for Chirk. Park in the centre, close to Montgomery, Powis Castle,
089; www.galesofllangollen.co.uk
or cross the bridge and turn right into Chirk Castle and Castell Dinas Bran.
RUTHIN Mill Street for the long-stay car park.
Firgrove Country House moderate
This charming Georgian house, just west
of Ruthin on the B5105, has extensive
gardens, two attractive B&B rooms plus a
self­catering suite. Can do evening meals.
Llanfwrog, LL15 2LL; 01824 702677;
www.firgrovecountryhouse.co.uk
Manorhaus moderate
This boutique hotel has eight modern,
stylish rooms. There are luxurious
touches like fine bedlinen, sleek
bathrooms, a sauna, and even a
private cinema for guests.
Well Street, LL15 1AH; 01824 704 830;
www.manorhaus.com
Right The colourful hills and valley of
Horseshoe Pass, near Llangollen
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


162-167_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 164 20/07/18 8:17 PM

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke 165


over the Dee valley, is a beautiful spot
for a walk. It crosses the stunning 38-m
(125-ft) high Pontcysyllte Aqueduct,
designed by Thomas Telford and
William Jessop. Completed in 1805, it
is the longest and highest aqueduct
in the UK. For a better look, head 5 km
(3 miles) east on the A539. Here visitors
can hire a barge for the day to cruise
the canal from Anglo Welsh (Canal
Wharf, LL20 7TX; 01978 821 749).
West of Llangollen, along the A542
(with car park), lies Valle Crucis Abbey,
a ruined Cistercian abbey dating from
1201. Walk further along the road to
Eliseg’s Pillar, set up in the 9th century
by the King of Powys in memory of his
great-grandfather. Driving further on,
the road rises up to Horseshoe Pass Above Plas-Newydd, the pretty home of the
(416 m/1,367 ft, often snowbound in 8 St Dyfnog’s Church “Ladies of Llangollen”
winter) and the Ponderosa Café – Denbighshire; LL16 4NN
worth a stop for the views, but beware In the tiny village of Llanrhaeadr,
of crisp-snatching mountain sheep. St Dyfnog’s Church holds one of the EAT AND DRINK
ª Take the A542, then A525 to Ruthin. most important Welsh ecclesiastical AROUND CHIRK CASTLE
Park in the centre off Station Road. treasures. It is the most complete The West Arms Hotel moderate
“Jesse Tree” window (showing Jesus’ Cosy fireplaces and low beams add
descent from Jesse, King David’s character to this historic inn, 18 km
father). The work dates from 1544 and (11 miles) west of Chirk on the B4500.
was paid for by pilgrims seeking the A restaurant and bar serves Welsh
lamb, local trout and vegetarian dishes.
healing powers of the holy well of Llanarmon Dyffryn Ceiriog, LL20 7LD;
St Dyfnog, visible in the woods behind 01691 600 665; www.thewestarms.co.uk
the church. It is regarded as the finest
pre-Reformation stained glass in LLANGOLLEN
Wales. Admire its powerful depth of The Corn Mill moderate
colour, revealed in 23 portraits from Gorgeous riverside setting at this
converted corn mill, now an award-
Jesse, reclining at the base, to other winning pub. Come for delicious beef
figures associated with Jesus’ lineage. sandwiches, ploughmans’ lunches,
Next door is the Anvil Pottery, in an burgers and sticky toffee pudding.
old smithy, where the two potters Dee Lane, LL20 8PN; 01978 869 555;
www.brunningandprice.co.uk
make beautiful but functional glazed
Above Barges cruising serenely along the stone and earthenware pots. AROUND LLANGOLLEN
Llangollen Canal ª Take the A525 north to Denbigh, Ponderosa Café inexpensive
then the A543 – car park is on the right. The splendid views are the selling
7 Ruthin point here, more than the food. It’s
cheap, cheerful and child-friendly.
Denbighshire; LL15 1YN Horseshoe Pass, LL20 8DR; 01978 790
This town’s historic centre is filled with 307; www.ponderosacafe.co.uk
timber-framed buildings. Nantclwyd y The Britannia Inn moderate
Dre (Jun–Aug: Sat–Wed; Apr, May & Sep: Located at the foot of the Horseshoe
Sat–Mon) is a c.1435 historic house in Pass, this inn is famed for the hearty
Castle Street displaying rooms from meals served in its beamed bar rooms.
seven periods from the 15th to the Good ales and wines, too.
20th century. The Ruthin Craft Centre Horseshoe Pass, LL20 8DW; 01978 860
144; www.britinn.com
(and TIP) shows crafts from across the
British Isles. The Pentonville-style RUTHIN
Ruthin Gaol (Apr–Sep: open Wed–Mon; On the Hill moderate
www.ruthingaol.co.uk), has been The husband-and-wife team here
restored as a prison museum. work with the best of local produce.
Try the slow-cooked pork belly, sticky
ª Leave on the A525 for Denbigh. carrot cake, and Shropshire blue cheese.
Look out for a sign to Llanrhaeadr on Above Half-timbered houses line the street in the 1 Upper Clwyd Street, LL15 1HY; 01824
left (easy to miss) and park by church. market town of Ruthin 707 736; www.onthehillrestaurant.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

162-167_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 165 20/07/18 8:17 PM

166 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


The William Morgan Bible
Henry VIII’s Acts of Union introduced
in 1536–43 made English the official
language of Wales and marginalized
the Welsh tongue. The scholar and
bishop, William Morgan, created his
Welsh bible using Hebrew and Greek
originals to create an accurate yet
poetic classic. He completed his
translation in 1588 and it was used
to teach successive generations
how to read and write Welsh. The
clarity and power of its language
resonates through the centuries.

0 St Asaph
Above The former St Asaph Union Workhouse Denbighshire; LL17 0RD
and H M nley Hospital building 9 Denbigh This tiny city, set amid glorious scenery
Denbighshire; LL16 3DE with views over the Vale of Clwyd, is
Dominating the town, Denbigh home to Britain’s smallest cathedral.
Castle (open daily) was built in 1282 St Asaph’s Cathedral (open daily) was
under Henry de Lacy, Edward I’s founded in AD 560 by exiled Scottish
councillor. Marvel at the triple- bishop Saint Kentigern. However, its
WHERE TO STAY towered Great Gatehouse with a turbulent history – it was sacked by
statue of King Edward – only grand Henry III in 1245, Edward I in 1282
AROUND DENBIGH Caernarfon Castle has and Owain Glyndŵr in 1402 –
something similar. Even the means that the current
Tan-yr-Onnen moderate
In the country just south of Junction 28 town walls were built to building is mostly 14th
on the A55, this B&B offers modern integrate with the castle. century with more modern
rooms, a sunny conservatory, and serves Walk north down to the additions made by the
homemade bread for breakfast. Burgess Gate, the main gate Victorian architect Sir George
Waen, LL17 0DU; 01745 583 821;
www.northwalesbreaks.co.uk of the town wall with Gilbert Scott (1867–75).
chequered stonework. On Item from Earthworks Importantly, it houses a copy
Pentre Mawr Country House expensive the way, look out for the of the 1588 translation of the
Head east from Denbigh on the Ruthin Pottery, St Asaph
Road, taking the minor road further east tower of St Hilary’s Chapel, Bible into Welsh by William
to the B5429. Turn left and left again to built in 1300, and Leicester’s Church, Morgan, who later became bishop
this historic family home. It has beautiful the remains of Robert Dudley, Earl of here. The revised version, published in
bedrooms, some with four-poster beds Leicester’s unfinished church. It was 1620, enabled the survival of the Welsh
and free-standing baths. There are lovely important because it was the only language and its continued everyday
views, a swimming pool and hot tubs
and home-cooked dinners at weekends. large church built (1578–80) between use in the face of pressure from English.
Llandyrnog, LL16 4LA; 01824 790 732; the Dissolution of the Monasteries The cruciform St Asaph Union
www.pentremawrcountryhouse.co.uk and the rebuilding of St Paul’s Workhouse (now apartments) was built
AROUND ST ASAPH Cathedral in London. in 1838. One of its inmates was five-
Bach y Graig moderate ª Leave on the A525 to St Asaph. Park year-old orphan John Rowlands, who
This 16th-century farmhouse is set in next to the cathedral (on the A525). later changed his name to Henry
quiet countryside, south of St Asaph off
the A541. It has five cosy en-suite rooms
and a beamed lounge with a log fire.
Tremeirchion, LL17 0UH; 01745 730
627; www.bachygraig.co.uk
HOLYWELL
Pantasaph Farm B&B inexpensive
Just off the A55, this highly rated and
peaceful B&B is set in a farm. Enjoy
full Welsh breakfasts, and evening
meals on request.
Pantasaph Farm, CH8 8PL; 01352 713
138; www.pantasaphfarm.co.uk

Right One of the towers of Denbigh Castle, built
to subdue the Welsh
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


162-167_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 166 13/09/18 3:59 PM

DRIVE 15: Along Offa’s Dyke 167


Far left The bathing pool at St Winefride’s
Well, Holywell Left Stained-glass window,
from a chapel at St Winefride’s Well, Holywell











Morton Stanley and, as a journalist, ª Turn right out of castle, over the
found missing explorer Dr Livingstone. flyover, and onto A55 towards Chester.
ª Leave on B5381 towards Betws-yn- Turn off for A5026 on the left, turning
Rhos, over roundabout and sharp right. left at the sign for St Winefride’s Well.
Follow brown signs to castle.
w Holywell
q Bodelwyddan Castle Flintshire; CH8 7PN SHOPPING IN ST ASAPH
Denbighshire; LL18 5YA Close to the estuary of the River Dee,
A “fortified” house and museum set Holywell is a historic market town Wendy Gill at Earthworks Pottery
in expansive grounds, Bodelwyddan whose name derives from its main (Lower Street, LL17 0SG; 01745 583
Castle (open weekends; open weekdays, attraction, St Winefride’s Well (open 353; www.earthworks-pottery.co.uk)
summer and school holidays; 01745 584 daily). Legend has it that in AD 660, creates attractive handmade slipware
ceramics. Browse the individual jugs,
060; www.bodelwyddan-castle.co.uk) was the son of local chieftain, Caradoc, teapots, vases, jars and hand-decorated
named after Elwyddan, a 5th-century beheaded the young Winefride after pots with seasonal themes. There is
Romano-British chieftain. Although the she refused his advances. Water sprang parking nearby on Lower Street.
estate dates back to the 15th century, from the earth at the spot where her
most of what is visible today – the head fell, and she was restored to life EAT AND DRINK
limestone turrets and battlements – by her uncle, St Beuno. The spring DENBIGH
was created by John Hay Williams rises in the crypt of a 16th-century hall On the Hill moderate
between 1830 and 1852 with the and flows into a large bathing pool. A husband-and-wife team run this cosy,
architects Hansom and Welch. Look out for the sculpture of a pilgrim beamed bistro. Try their homemade
As an outpost of the National Portrait being carried to the well on a friend’s black pudding or slow-cooked Welsh
Gallery, it is a real trove of art treasures, back. The waters of the “Lourdes of pork with smoked cauliflower cheese.
1 Upper Clwd Street, LL15 1HY; 01824
and houses furniture from the V&A Wales” have been said to cause mirac- 707 736; www.onthehillrestaurant.co.uk
Museum and sculptures from the ulous cures since the 7th century and
Royal Academy of Arts. The interiors today, pilgrims travel from all over the AROUND HOLYWELL
are sumptuous and there are galleries world to worship at the shrine and Red Lion Inn inexpensive
on the upper floor. Outside, there are take the water. In the Middle Ages, the Take the A5026 northwest, then the
A5151, turning right for Llanasa to
formal gardens and parkland with Holywell to St David’s road linked find this cosy country pub. Enjoy a
woodlands walks and nature trails. the two most important Welsh shrines wide range of bar meals, including
The grounds also have trenches used and was known as “The Pilgrims Road” traditional fish and chips.
to train soldiers for World War I. right up to the 19th century. Llanasa, CH8 9NE; 01745 854 291
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the drive route but return on the Cultural and Religious Treasures
Ludlow, Llangollen and Denbigh are A490, A489 and A49 for speed. Staying at Denbigh 9, see the castle
all excellent bases for exploring the Local Llangollen and churches before heading to
treasures of Wales. St Asaph 0 to see the William Morgan
Start at Llangollen 6 with a visit Bible; head on to Bodelwyddan Castle
One for the Kids to the society ladies’ house of Plas q, filled with fine treasures, and on
In Ludlow 1, see the castle and Newydd, then a climb up Dinas Bran to the pilgrimage site of Holywell w.
buy food for a picnic, then head to for some stunning views. After a visit Return towards Denbigh, going past it
Acton Scott Farm Museum 2 to see to the canal and aqueduct, have lunch and on to Llanrhaeadr and St Dyfnog’s
the animals and enjoy lunch in the at Horseshoe Pass, and see Valle Crucis Church 8 for the Jesse Tree window.
country. On to Welshpool 4, for a Abbey. Drive south to Chirk Castle 5
ride on the steam train and a visit to to admire its interiors and gardens. Follow the drive’s instructions all the
Powis Castle, if there’s time. Follow the drive’s instructions in reverse. way there and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


162-167_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 167 20/07/18 8:17 PM

168-169_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 168 30/03/2017 14:16
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Cardiff
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Bristol
Cardiff
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 16 WALES Exeter ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London London London
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
Around the
Peak District
Ashbourne Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Inverness
to Matlock Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen
SCOTLAND
Edinburgh
Bath Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow
Carlisle Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Highlights
• The Peak landscapes
Travel through some of England’s
most scenic country – walk up to the
lofty crags of Stanage Edge, drive
through winding Winnats Pass and
enjoy sheltered Dovedale
• Towns and villages with character
Discover Georgian Buxton, quaint
Bakewell with its courtyards, and soak
up the local atmosphere in the old
village pubs of Edale and Eyam
• Grand mansions
Admire one of the most majestic of
aristocratic palaces at Chatsworth, set
in sublime grounds, and one of the
most intact medieval manor houses
in England at Haddon Hall
View across the River Wye from Haddon Hall,
England’s finest medieval manor house
168-169_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 169 30/03/2017 14:16

170 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Around the Peak District

The Peak District has long been renowned as a place of beauty, becoming
the country’s first national park in 1951. Despite being in the heart
of industrialized England, the Peak area’s villages and towns have Alshop
Alshop
Derwent
a remote feel and retain an individuality often lost elsewhere – Kinder Scout High P Derwent Hollow
High P eakeak
Moor
Moor
Kinder Scout
Hollow
636m
within minutes of parking the car, visitors can be exploring 636m Edale Moor Meadows Hallam
Meadows
Edale Moor
Hallam
Head
Noe
secluded valleys, or striding up over hills with fabulous views. ED EDALEALE Noe Head
Fulwood
The Peak District divides in two, between the limestone Fulwood Greystones
Greystones
Hallam
Chinley Head
Ecclesall
White Peak to the south, where water has scooped out Chinley Head Bar Barberber CASTLETON Hope Bamford Stanage Edge Hallam Ecclesall
Booth
Booth
Moorss
Bamford
Moor
CASTLETON Hope
the soft rock into deep caves and sheltered valleys, Chinley Chapel Thornhill Whiteley
Whiteley
Thornhill
Chinley
Chapel
Wood
Wood
Milton
Stanage Edge
Winnats
and the Dark Peak north of Buxton, where the Milton Slackhall Winnats Abbeydale
Slackhall
Pass
Pass
Abbeydale
HATHERSAGE
Bradwell
harder millstone grit has created a dramatic Tunstead Sparrowpit Bradwell HATHERSAGE Dore
Tunstead
Sparrowpit
Dore
Milton
Milton
Old Moor
Chapel-en-en-
Bradway
landscape of ridges and windswept moorland. Chapel- Old Moor Abney Totley Bradway
Abney
Totley
le-Frithrith
le-F
Peak Forest
Peak Forest
Fernilee Great Nether Padley Owler
Great
Fernilee
Owler
Nether Padley
Hucklow
Bretton
Dove Holes
Combs Dove Holes Hucklow Bretton Grindleford Bar Bar
Combs
Grindleford
DERBYSHIRE
DERBYSHIRE
Combs
Combs EYAM Froggatt
EYAM
Froggatt
Wheston
Big
Moss
Moss Wheston Big
Litton
Tideswell
Tideswell Litton Moor
Moor
Wormhill
Wormhill
Wardlow
Curbar
Calver
BUXTON
BUXTON Fairfield Wardlow Calver Curbar
Fairfield
Great
Wye
Wye
Baslow
Blackwell
Hassop
Burbage
Burbage Blackwell Priestcliffe Great Hassop Baslow
Longstone
Longstone
Priestcliffe
Little
King Sterndale Little
King Sterndale
Longstone Pilsley
Pilsley
Longstone
Harpurhill
Harpurhill
Taddington
CHATSWORTH
Chelmorton Taddington Ashford CHATSWORTH
Chelmorton
Ashford
Edensor
P P eakeak Edensor East
East
Flagg
BAKEWELL
Flagg BAKEWELL Derwent Derwent Moor
Moor
Distr ictict
Earl Earl Distr Beeley
Beeley
Sterndale
Sterndale
HADDON HALL
Monyash
Monyash HADDON HALL
Hollinsclough Oveve Orr
Hollinsclough
O
Overver
National
National Haddon Rowsley
Rowsley
Haddon
Haddon
Haddon
Longnor
Longnor Stanton
Stanton
Pa r kr k
Youlgreave in-Peak
Fawfieldhead Pa Youlgreave in-Peak
Fawfieldhead
Two Dales
Pilsbury Middleton Two Dales
Pilsbury
Middleton
Darley
Newton Darley
Newton
Bridge
Upper
Sheen
Birchover
Above Typical Peak District scenery on the lovely road to Edale, see p173 Sheen Birchover Bridge Upper
Hackney
Hackney
Wensley
Wensley
Winster
Friden
Friden Winster
Matlock
Hartington Matlock
Hartington
Hulme End
Hulme End Biggin Tansley
Tansley
Biggin
Upper
Upper
ACTIVITIES Elkstone Warslow Pikehall MATLOCK BATH
Warslow
Pikehall
MATLOCK BATH
Elkstone
ST Lea Lea
STAFFORDSHIREAFFORDSHIRE
Cycle along the beautiful Tissington Trail from Ashbourne Aldwark Cromford
Aldwark
Cromford
Holloway
Butterton Holloway
Butterton
Alstonefield Alsop en
Alsop en
Walk through amazing Peak District scenery at Ilam Wetton Alstonefield le Dale Middleton
Wetton
Middleton
le Dale
Onecote
Onecote Brassington
Brassington
Take the waters at the handsome spa town of Buxton Stanshope Parwich Wirksworth
Wirksworth
Parwich
Stanshope
Grindon
Ford Grindon Carsington
Ford
Carsington
Millers
Hike the Pennine Way, or at least part of it, from Edale Manifold Millers
Green
Bradbourne
Tissington
Tissington Bradbourne Green
Dove
Dove
Manifold
Waterfall
Carsington
Climb down into Castleton’s watery caverns to see the Winkhill Waterfall ILAM AND Carsington
ILAM AND
Winkhill
Water
Water
Thorpe
DOVEDALE
area’s unique Blue John stone DOVEDALE Thorpe Hognaston
Hognaston
Kniveton
Calton
Kirk Ireton
Cauldon
Get lost in the maze at Chatsworth and marvel at the sheer Cauldon Calton Kniveton Kirk Ireton
Biggin
grandeur of the country house and gardens Mapleton Biggin
Mapleton
Swinscoe
Swinscoe
Hulland
Hulland
Feast on an original Bakewell Pudding and other goodies ASHBOURNE
ASHBOURNE
on a stroll around Bakewell’s shops and markets Stanton
Stanton
Bradley
Ramshorn
Ramshorn Mayfield Bradley
Mayfield
Travel back in time to the Middle Ages at Haddon Hall Wootton
Wootton
Clifton
Clifton
Osmaston
Osmaston
Look down on the world from the cable car at Matlock Bath
170-171_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 170 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 16: Around the Peak District 171

KEY PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Drive route
Start/finish: Ashbourne to Matlock
0 kilometres 10 Bath.
0 miles 10 Number of days: 2–3, allowing half a
Alshop
Alshop
Derwent day for the Dovedale walk.
Derwent
High P eakeak
Moor
Kinder Scout High P Moor Hollow
Kinder Scout
Hollow
636m
636m Meadows Distances: Around 97 km (60 miles).
Meadows
Edale Moor
Edale Moor Noe Hallam
Hallam
Head
Head
Noe
ED EDALEALE Road conditions: The roads are in
Fulwood
Fulwood
Greystones
Hallam
Chinley Head Bar Barberber Hallam Ecclesall Greystones good condition.
Chinley Head
Ecclesall
Booth CASTLETON Hope Bamford Stanage Edge Moor
Bamford
Booth
Moorss
CASTLETON Hope
Whiteley
Chinley Chapel Thornhill Whiteley When to go: Peak District weather is
Chinley
Thornhill
Chapel
Wood
Milton
Stanage Edge
Milton Winnats Wood notoriously changeable, but from May
Winnats
Slackhall
Slackhall Pass Pass to September is usually when there is
Abbeydale
HATHERSAGE
Bradwell HATHERSAGE Abbeydale
Bradwell
Tunstead
Tunstead the best chance of good weather.
Dore
Sparrowpit
Old Moor
Milton Chapel- Sparrowpit Old Moor Dore Bradway
Milton
Chapel-en-en-
Bradway
Abney
Totley
le-F le-Frithrith Abney Totley
Peak Forest Opening times: Museums and
Peak Forest
Fernilee
Great
Fernilee Great Nether Padley Owler attractions are generally open
Nether Padley
Owler
Hucklow
Dove Holes
Bretton
Combs Dove Holes Hucklow Bretton Grindleford Bar Bar 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Combs
Grindleford
DERBYSHIRE closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
DERBYSHIRE
Combs
Combs EYAM Froggatt are often open longer. Churches are
EYAM
Froggatt
Wheston
Big
Moss
Moss Wheston Big
Litton
Tideswell Litton Moor usually open until dusk.
Tideswell
Moor
Wormhill
Wormhill
Wardlow
Curbar
Calver
BUXTON
BUXTON Fairfield Wardlow Calver Curbar Shopping: For the area’s most famous
Fairfield
dish, try the Old Original Bakewell
Great
Wye
Wye
Baslow
Blackwell
Hassop
Burbage Blackwell Priestcliffe Great Hassop Baslow Pudding Shop on Bridge St, Bakewell.
Burbage
Longstone
Longstone
Priestcliffe
King Sterndale Little Look out, too, for David Mellor’s
King Sterndale
Little
Pilsley
Longstone
Longstone Pilsley
Harpurhill
Harpurhill cutlery at Hathersage, and Blue
Taddington
Ashford
CHATSWORTH
Chelmorton
Chelmorton Taddington Ashford CHATSWORTH John, as pure stone or jewellery, in
Edensor
P P eakeak Edensor East Castleton and Bakewell.
East
BAKEWELL
Flagg BAKEWELL Derwent Derwent Moor
Flagg
Moor
Distr ictict
Earl Earl Distr Beeley Main market days: Ashbourne: Thu,
Beeley
Sterndale
Sterndale Sat; Buxton: Tue, Sat, Farmers’ Market
HADDON HALL
Monyash HADDON HALL
Monyash
Hollinsclough
Hollinsclough Oveve Orr 1st Thu of month; Castleton, Farmers’
O
Overver
National
National Haddon Rowsley
Rowsley
Haddon
Haddon
Haddon
Longnor Stanton Market, 1st Sun of month; Bakewell:
Longnor
Mon, Farmers’ Market last Sat of month;
Stanton
Pa r kr k
Youlgreave in-Peak
Fawfieldhead Pa Youlgreave in-Peak Matlock: Market Hall open Tue, Fri &
Fawfieldhead
Two Dales
Pilsbury Middleton Two Dales
Pilsbury
Middleton
Newton
Newton Darley Above Wild-garlic-lined steps off Lover’s Sat, Farmers’ Market Wed.
Darley
Bridge
Upper
Sheen Birchover Bridge Upper Walk, above Matlock Bath, see p175
Birchover
Sheen
Hackney Main festivals: Ashbourne: Shrovetide
Hackney
Wensley
Wensley
Winster
Friden
Friden Winster Football Match, Shrove Tuesday and
Matlock
Hartington Matlock
Hartington
Hulme End
Hulme End Ash Wednesday; Buxton: Festival, Jul;
Tansley
Biggin
Upper Warslow Biggin Pikehall Tansley Castleton: Garland Day, 29 May;
Upper
Warslow
Pikehall
MATLOCK BATH
Elkstone MATLOCK BATH Bakewell: Bakewell Show (farming
Elkstone
STAFFORDSHIREAFFORDSHIRE
ST Lea Lea show), 1st week Aug; Matlock:
Aldwark
Aldwark
Cromford
Holloway
Butterton
Butterton Cromford Holloway Matlock Bath Illuminations, Sep–Oct.
Alstonefield Alsop en
Wetton
Wetton Alstonefield Alsop en Middleton
Middleton
le Dale
le Dale
Onecote
Onecote Brassington DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Brassington
Wirksworth
Wirksworth
Parwich
Stanshope
Grindon
Ford
Ford Grindon Stanshope Parwich Carsington Below The cable car at the Heights of
Carsington
Millers
Millers Tour the White Peak from Ashbourne
Green
Bradbourne
Tissington Bradbourne Green Abraham, Matlock Bath, see p175 with its pub and church, go on to Ilam
Tissington
Dove
Manifold
Manifold
Dove
Waterfall
Waterfall
Carsington
ILAM AND
Winkhill
Winkhill ILAM AND Carsington for a walk in the prettiest of dales and
Water
Water
DOVEDALE
Thorpe
DOVEDALE Thorpe Hognaston finish in the spa town of Buxton. Or, to
Hognaston
Kniveton
Calton
Kirk Ireton
Cauldon Calton Kniveton Kirk Ireton see the Hope Valley, try a hike in Edale
Cauldon
and then visit the caves at Castleton
Biggin
Mapleton Biggin before eating sweet treats at Bakewell.
Mapleton
Swinscoe
Swinscoe
Hulland
Hulland History lovers should start at Bakewell,
ASHBOURNE
ASHBOURNE buy a picnic and tour the grand house
Stanton
Stanton
Bradley
Ramshorn
Ramshorn Mayfield Bradley and estate at Chatsworth, then visit
Mayfield
Wootton the medieval manor house Haddon
Wootton
Clifton
Clifton
Osmaston Hall and ascend the cable car at
Osmaston
Matlock Bath. For full details, see p175.
170-171_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 171 20/07/18 7:45 PM

172 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


1 Ashbourne Street, past the beautiful 1585
Derbyshire; DE6 1EX Grammar School and 1640s alms-
This charming market town is full of houses, leads to the Gothic St Oswald’s
fascinating corners, such as the 15th- Church, with finely sculpted tombs
century half-timbered Ashbourne from the 14th to the 18th centuries in
Gingerbread Shop and the Green Man the Cockayne-Boothby chapel.
& Black’s Head Royal Hotel, whose To explore the stunning countryside,
extraordinary pub sign runs across the get a bike from Ashbourne Cycle Hire
main street. Ashbourne is famed for its and ride along the flat 21-km (13-mile)
yearly Shrovetide Football Match – a Tissington Trail, a disused railway line.
chaotic ancestor of modern soccer, ª Leaving by the A515 north, turn
played all day and with half the village left at the sign for Thorpe, Ilam and
on each side. A walk along Church Dovedale. Park near the obelisk in Ilam.
2 Ilam and Dovedale
Staffordshire; DE6 2AZ
Starting from quaint Ilam, this bracing walk explores Dovedale, a
Above One of several pretty “Swiss winding, hidden gorge of dramatic rock formations and woods by the
chalet-style” houses in Ilam sparkling River Dove. Its beauty has been long celebrated – so it’s
popular – but during the week, it’s still possible to avoid the crowds.
VISITING ASHBOURNE
Parking A three-hour walk At the top, rest and enjoy the views.
Park in the Market Place or nearby
Shawcroft Car Park off Park Road. From the obelisk at Ilam 1, walk up Return to the path and go through a
the road beside the river until you gate and the next field to a large five-
Tourist Information
Ashbourne Visitor Information Centre, pass the last cottage. Go through a bar gate onto a broad track between
Town Hall Yard, DE6 1ES; 01335 343 gate on the left into fields. Climb up stone walls. Outside Ilamtops Farm
666; www.visitpeakdistrict.com to a wider footpath, turn left and at a 3, turn right to walk down to Air
Ashbourne Cycle Hire green footpath sign go right on the Cottage 4. Just before the cottage,
Mapleton Lane, DE6 2AA; 01335 343 156; path for Stanshope. This goes up the follow the sign leading off to the right.
www.peakdistrict.gov.uk/visiting/cycle side of Bunster Hill 2, the giant peak Stop on the crags nearby to enjoy the
between Ilam and Dovedale. At a dry- full view of Dovedale below.
WHERE TO STAY
stone wall, do not go through the gate Below the cottage, the signed path
ILAM AND DOVEDALE but head up the steep path, with the curves through the woods before it
Hillcrest House moderate wall to the left, to the top of the hill. climbs up again to the small gate into
Charming B&B on the road from Ilam to
Ashbourne, with spacious rooms and
modern comforts. Generous breakfasts. 0 metres 500
Thorpe, DE6 2AW; 01335 350 436; Ilam Rock
www.hillcresthousedovedale.co.uk
0 yards 500
BUXTON
Dovedale Wood
Buxton Hilbre inexpensive
A welcoming three-room B&B known Air Cottage
for its quality organic breakfasts. Reynard’s
8 White Knowle Road, SK17 9NH; 01298 Ilamtops Farm Cave
22358; www.buxtonhilbre.co.uk
Old Hall Hotel moderate
Perhaps the oldest hotel in England, this
now has modern facilities to add to its Lover’s
character. There’s a bar and cosy lounges Leap
;the restaurant uses top local produce. Twelve
The Square, SK17 6BD; 01298 22841; Apostles
www.oldhallhotelbuxton.co.uk Bunster
Hill Stepping
AROUND CASTLETON Stones
Losehill House Hotel & Spa moderate
This hotel is intimate, luxurious and has ILAM
comfortable, light rooms. Hotel is on the Thorpe
A6187, take the Edale Road north, fork- Cloud
ing left down a track and keeping right. Obelisk
Edale Road, Hope, S33 6AF; 01433 621
219; www.losehillhouse.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
172-175_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 172 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 16: Around the Peak District 173















Above left Walkers beside the River Dove, in
Dovedale Wood 5. The path goes St Ann’s Well, in the town centre, is still Dovedale Above right Edale Parish Church, at
through the wood before a right turn valued. The baths are now a shopping the heart of the village
starts a very steep winding descent centre, still with beautiful Victorian tiles.
to the bottom of Dovedale itself, to a ª Leave on A6 north, turn right onto
stone pillar known as Ilam Rock 6. A623. At Sparrowpit, take left to Edale EAT AND DRINK
Turn right, and cross a footbridge (B6061). At junction keep left for Barber
to the main path down the dale’s east Booth, then left again towards Chapel- ASHBOURNE
side. Compared to the windswept en-le-Frith. Turn sharp right for Barber St John Street Gallery & Café
hills, it feels sheltered here. On the Booth and car park on left in Edale. inexpensive
A former magistrates’ court has been
walk through the woods, look out turned into a contemporary art gallery
for cave entrances and natural land - 4 Edale and licensed award-winning café
marks, such as the rock arch to Derbyshire; S33 7ZA serving homemade food with a
Reynard’s Cave 7, the stone towers Nestling in a broad valley, pretty Edale Mediterranean slant, cakes and local
artisanal bread. Special dietary needs
of the Twelve Apostles 8 (through is a magnet for hikers as the start of the are catered for.
the trees), Lover’s Leap 9 and the Pennine Way, the 412-km (256-mile) 50 St John Street, DE6 1GH; 01335 347
picturesque Stepping Stones 0 to footpath to Scotland – but there are 425; www.stjohngalleryandcafe.co.uk
the west bank. Here, the Dove turns, many shorter walks in the area. Visit the AROUND ILAM AND DOVEDALE
below another hill, Thorpe Cloud q. Peak District National Park’s Moorland
Follow the path back to the Dovedale Centre, for maps, information and The Manifold Inn moderate
This classic stone coaching inn, on
car park, and beyond it, take the walking routes. The Rambler Inn and the route from Ilam to Buxton, has a
footpath to the right back to Ilam. Old Nag’s Head pubs are favourite garden terrace and serves good pub
ª Go up hill to Stanshope, through the spots for a restorative drink after a hike. food including roasts, steaks, set buffet
village and at next junction left through ª Retrace the route back to the meals, and lighter options – it also has
Wetton. Take left fork at bottom of hill, B6061 and turn second left for Edale rooms and a two-bedroom cottage.
Hulme End, Hartington,
next right, then left signed Hulme End. (Winnats Pass) to Castleton. SK17 0EX; 01298 84537;
After tunnel, turn left for Hulme End, left www.themanifoldinn.co.uk
again at junction and right at Manifold 5 Castleton BUXTON
Inn (B5054). Take left to Sheen and Derbyshire; S33 8WQ
Longnor, then B5053 and A515 to Winnats Pass, a spectacular gash in the Pavilion Gardens inexpensive
Occupying the magnificent Victorian
Buxton. Park near the Crescent. landscape, leads to lovely Castleton, conservatories in Buxton’s grand
overlooked by the romantic ruins of park, this café makes the most of
3 Buxton 11th-century Peveril Castle (open mid- its space and light. Choose between
Derbyshire; SK17 6BD Mar–Oct daily; Nov–mid-Mar: Sat & Sun), the main café, or the Art Café above,
Famous for its mineral waters since which gave Castleton its name. This old decorated by local artists. The menu,
designed around local produce, runs
Roman times, Buxton was transformed stone village is also close to dramatic from breakfasts and snacks to larger
in the 1780s, when the fifth Duke of caves (open daily) from which minerals dishes for lunch.
Devonshire decided to create a stylish such as Blue John, a unique local St John’s Road, SK17 6BE; 01298 23114;
spa here in imitation of Bath, and purple fluorspar, were mined for www.paviliongardens.co.uk
commissioned Neo-Classical buildings centuries. The best caves to visit are AROUND BUXTON
such as the elegant Crescent and giant Blue John Cavern at the top of Winnats The Woodhouse moderate
domed Stables, now Derby University. Pass, Peak Cavern, Treak Cliff Cavern Take the A6 east, then the B6049
Buxton remained popular in the 19th and Speedwell Cavern, a “drowned north to Tideswell to find this bistro
century, gaining the lovely Pavilion mine” reached by boat. Further down and tea room. A choice of thirty
Gardens and the ornate 1905 Opera the valley, Hope is another attractive teas and, from Thursday to Saturday,
a varied bistro menu. Bring your
House (www.buxtonoperahouse.org.uk) – village, with a fine 14th-century church. own wine.
the centre of the Buxton Festival of ª Continue down the Hope Valley Queen Street, Tideswell, SK17 8PF; 01298
Music and Arts (July). The water from Road (A6187) to Hathersage. 871 133; hndsbistro.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50

172-175_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 173 20/07/18 7:47 PM

174 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Peak District Pubs
Snug old stone pubs are among
the jewels of the Peak District, and
many provide well-priced food. As
well as the Manifold Inn (see p173),
other pubs to look out for are
Smith’s Tavern and the historic
Green Man & Black’s Head Royal
Hotel (see p172) in Ashbourne, the
Bluebell Inn in Tissington near Ilam,
the Old Nag’s Head and the Rambler
Inn in Edale, the Cheshire Cheese in
Hope near Castleton, the Miners
Arms in Eyam and the Plough Inn,
Above Glorious Chatsworth Park, created by just south of Hathersage.
“Capability” Brown in the 1760s 6 Hathersage
Derbyshire; S32 1DD
On the drive down the Hope Valley, 8 Chatsworth
a dramatic wall of red rock, Stanage Derbyshire; DE45 1PP
Edge, is visible to the northeast of One of the grandest of Britain’s great
WHERE TO STAY Hathersage. Head up to the “Edge” houses and a model of 18th-century
from town for fabulous views – elegance, the Palladian mansion of
EYAM many walking paths begin near Chatsworth (open daily) has been home
Innisfree Cottage inexpensive Hathersage’s tranquil 14th-century to the Dukes and Duchesses of
The informative hosts in this peaceful
and sunny cottage offer three rooms. church. In the churchyard lies Little Devonshire since the early 1700s. Truly
The breakfast menu has omelettes, John’s Grave where, according to palatial, the house has sumptuous
Derbyshire oatcakes and bagels; local legend, Robin Hood’s best friend furnishings and works of art, but is
packed lunches are also available. is buried. Off the village’s main road is made still more magnificent by its
Tideswell Lwane, S32 5RD; 01433 631 the Round Building, the workshop setting, as the centrepiece of a majestic
055; www.innisfreecottage.co.uk
and shop of the celebrated cutlery park created by “Capability” Brown in
AROUND EYAM designer David Mellor (1930–2009). the 1760s with huge formal gardens,
Bretton Cottage moderate ª Take B6001 through Grindleford, fountains, a maze and cascading
This distinctive guesthouse in a then right (B6521) to Eyam. Follow signs waterworks. There’s also an adventure
17th-century hillside farmhouse, off to Eyam museum for large car park. playground, shops, a farmyard,
Sir William Hill Road just north of Eyam,
offers huge rooms with sitting areas restaurants and exhibitions. Opposite
and stunning views. The organic break- 7 Eyam the Chatsworth entrance, Edensor is a
fasts are substantial, too. Minimum Derbyshire; S32 5QP pretty model village, built in the 1830s
two-night stay in high season. Eyam became famous as an amazing when the then Duke decided the
Bretton, near Eyam, S32 5QD; 01433 example of self-sacrifice. In 1665, original Edensor village was too close.
631 076; www.peakholidayhomes.com
when the Great Plague was raging in ª Turn right from Chatsworth, back
AROUND CHATSWORTH London, the disease also took hold of towards Baslow, then left on a road
Bubnell Cliff Farm inexpensive Eyam. The village agreed to cut off all signed for Pilsley and Bakewell (B6048).
Enjoy two characterful rooms with large contact with the outside world until Turn left again onto A619 into Bakewell.
bathrooms and lovely views on all sides the plague had run its course, to avoid Use pay car park off main street.
in this homely farmhouse B&B in Baslow
off the A619 on the edge of the infecting the surrounding villages.
Chatsworth estate. As usual in the Peaks, They maintained this for nearly a year, Below The church at Eyam, a village decimated
generous breakfasts of hearty farm during which 257 people died. The during the Great Plague of 1665
produce make a great start to the day. story is told in the Eyam Museum
Wheatlands Lane, Baslow, near (late Mar–Oct: open Tue–Sun) and
Bakewell, DE45 1RF; 01246 582 454;
www.bubnellcliff.co.uk through monuments around the
village, such as the Riley Graves, where
AROUND HADDON HALL all seven of the Hancock family were
East Lodge Hotel and buried in a field. Despite this grim
Restaurant expensive history, today Eyam is a charming
In Rowsley, off the A6, south of Haddon
Hall, this fine old house has been village of old stone houses. The
beautifully restored with a blend of imposing mansion of Eyam Hall (for
country-house and modern boutique- opening times, see eyamhall.net) hosts a
hotel style. It has just 12 sumptuous craft centre (open Tue–Sun).
rooms and the gourmet restaurant,
looking out onto the gardens, provides ª Take the B6521 south and then the
seasonal modern menus to match. A623 left to Baslow, where Chatsworth
Rowsley, Matlock, DE4 2EF; 01629 734 is well signposted. The B6012 leads
474; www.eastlodge.com through the Chatsworth estate.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
172-175_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 174 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 16: Around the Peak District 175















Above left Stone houses in the hilly market
9 Bakewell 0 Haddon Hall town of Bakewell Above centre Pretty gardens
Derbyshire; DE45 1BT Derbyshire; DE45 1LA and medieval manor house of Haddon Hall
A bustling market town at the heart The most complete medieval and Above right Matlock Bath, perched beside
of the Peak District, Bakewell is a Elizabethan manor house in England, the River Derwent
charming place just to wander and Haddon Hall (Apr–Sep: daily; Oct: Fri–
window-shop. It’s also known for Mon; www.haddonhall.co.uk) has EAT AND DRINK
good food, with food stores in the remained virtually unaltered, except
courtyards off the main street and for upkeep, since the 1600s, and is HATHERSAGE
plenty of tea shops offering the local still owned by the Manners family. Coleman’s Deli inexpensive
speciality, Bakewell Pudding – it’s Original features include massive A lively deli café in a renovated coach
never called a tart in its home town. In medieval kitchens, flagstoned court- house building serving sandwiches,
salads and sumptuous cakes.
addition to its weekly market, the town yards, a 12th-century chapel with The Square, S32 1BB; 01433 650 505;
hosts a monthly Farmers’ Market 15th-century wall paintings and a Long www.colemansdeli.com
attracting many local food producers. Gallery with exquisite wood panelling. AROUND CHATSWORTH
The Old House Museum (Apr–Oct: ª Turn right out of the car park and
open daily), Bakewell’s oldest house, continue down A6 to Matlock Bath. Pay- Rowley’s Restaurant moderate
begun in 1543, has been made into a and-display parking along main street. This stylish bar-restaurant in Baslow,
on the A619 just north of Chatsworth,
fascinating museum of everyday life. serves creative modern British food.
ª Take the A6 south. Haddon Hall is q Matlock Bath Church Lane, Baslow, DE45 1RY; 01246
on the left but park on the right. Derbyshire; DE4 3AT 583 880; www.rowleysrestaurant.co.uk
Matlock developed in the 19th century BAKEWELL
as a spa with mass-market appeal. It is
still a popular destination, especially Piédaniel’s moderate
Chef Eric Piédaniel combines his own
Matlock Bath to the south of the main French skills and culinary traditions
town, where the River Derwent runs with local produce, and his restaurant
through an impressive narrow gorge. is a beautifully calm, relaxing space.
The main street (A6) beside the river is Bath Street, DE45 1BX; 01629 812 687;
www.piedaniels-restaurant.com
lined with budget restaurants and ice-
cream and souvenir shops. The most MATLOCK BATH
popular family attraction is the Heights Stones Restaurant moderate
of Abraham (Mar–Nov: open daily; www. In an enviable riverside location,
heightsofabraham.com) at the top of Stones offers both set menu and à la
the gorge – reached via a dramatic carte options. Try the duo of seafood.
1c Dale Road, Matlock, DE4 3LT; 01629
Above Extravagant topiary in the grounds cable car ride – with caverns, gardens, 56061; www.stones-restaurant.co.uk;
of Haddon Hall nature trails and dramatic views. closed Sun & Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow the drive route north but return Follow the drive route but return via A6.
Take in stunning countryside, historic via the A515 to save time. Great houses in the Peaks
houses and pretty towns.
Along the Hope Valley From Bakewell 9, buy some treats for
Through the White Peak Staying at Buxton 3, drive to Edale 4 lunch and visit majestic Chatsworth
Explore Ashbourne 1 and then take a for a walk above the village, and then 8 to enjoy a picnic in the park. Drive
long walk in the country at Dovedale visit the caves at Castleton 5. Drive round to the smaller but older Haddon
2 before driving north through on through Hathersage 6, with views Hall 0 and end the day with some
quaint Peak District villages to relax in of Stanage Edge and finally stop at family fun at Matlock Bath 0.
Buxton’s elegant Georgian pavilions 3. Bakewell 9 for some food shopping. Take the A6 there and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


172-175_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 175 20/07/18 7:47 PM

176-177_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 176 30/03/2017 14:16
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
WALES
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 17 Plymouth ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Edinburgh
Bristol
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
Yorkshire
Dales and
Abbeys
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
Harrogate to
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Bolton Abbey
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Highlights
• Health-giving Harrogate
Test the restorative waters in this
gracious Victorian spa resort with its
fine architecture and pretty parks
• Crumbling abbeys
Wander through the historic, romantic
ruins of these once-great Yorkshire
abbeys, set in marvellous countryside
• Gorgeous gardens
Admire a charming kitchen garden,
orderly civic flowerbeds, a national
hyacinth collection and a beautiful
ornamental water garden
• Great dale views
Walking or driving, there are always
breathtaking views over the beautiful
Yorkshire Dales National Park
Rolling green Wensleydale, perfect for sheep
whose milk is used to make cheese
176-177_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 177 30/03/2017 14:16

178 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Yorkshire Dales and Abbeys

Departing from the beautiful spa town of Harrogate, this drive follows a circuit through
the Yorkshire Dales National Park, with some truly sublime stretches that demand to be
taken at an easy pace. Along the way are the estate village of Ripley with its castle, the
small cathedral city of Ripon, the pretty market towns of Middleham and Leyburn, linked
by an ancient bridge across the Ure, and Hawes, home of Wensleydale cheese. Star
features of the tour are the ruins and grounds of Jervaulx, Fountain and Bolton abbeys.
Plundered in the 16th century on the
orders of Henry VIII, these once-
glorious monastic buildings
are now poignant East Bolton
East Bolton
monuments to the Ab botside Common Askrigg Common Moor Moor Hauxwell
Hauxwell
Ab botside Common
Askrigg Common
Bellerby
transience of power. Castle Bellerby Hunton Patrick
Castle
Hunton Patrick
Bolton
Askrigg
Askrigg Bolton Brompton
Brompton
Redmire
Leyburn
Bainbridge Redmire Leyburn Crakehall
Bainbridge
Crakehall
Spennithorne
Widdale
Widdale Swinthwaite Spennithorne
Swinthwaite
HAWES
Wensley
Newton
Fell Fell HAWES Wensley Newton
MIDDLEHAM
le Willows
Bedale
Ure Ure MIDDLEHAM le Willows Bedale
W e n s l e y d a l e
Aysgarth West West
W e n s l e y d a l e Aysgarth
Witton
Witton
JERVAULX
Thoralby
Thoralby JERVAULX
Penhill
Penhill Thornton
Thornton
ABBEY
Watlass
East East ABBEY Watlass
Melmerby
Snape
Melmerby l e e Witton Ellingstring Snape Carthorpe
Witton
Carthorpe
Ellingstring
Masham
Fearby
Middle Tongue C o v e r d r d a a l Fearby Masham Well Well Kirklington
Middle Tongue
Kirklington
642m 642m C o v e
Leighton
Langstr othdale Chase
Langstr othdale Chase Leighton Swinton West Tanfield
Swinton
West Tanfield
Buckden Pike
Buckden Pike
701m 701m Scar House
Scar House
Masham
Little Reservoir Masham Ure Ure Melmerby
Little
Melmerby
Reservoir
Moor
Whernside
Buckden
Halton Gill
Halton Gill Buckden Whernside Moor Wath Wath
Grewelthorpe
Great
Middlesmoor
Great Middlesmoor Grewelthorpe
Whernside Angran
Whernside Angran
704m 704m Reservoir
Reservoir
Laverton Kirkby Malzeard
Hutton
Laverton Kirkby Malzeard Hutton
Conyers
NOR TH YORKSHIRE
Wharfe
Wharfe
Kettlewell NOR TH YORKSHIRE Conyers
Kettlewell
Arncliffe RIPON Marton
RIPON
Marton
Winksley
Ramsgill Dallowgill
le Moor
Ramsgill Dallowgill Winksley le Moor
Arncliffe W
W
Moor
Moor
L i t t o n d a l e
L i t t o n d a l e
h
h
Gouthwaite
Littlethorpe
Gouthwaite Fountains Littlethorpe
a
Fountains
a
Conistone
Conistone Reservoir Sawley Abbey
Reservoir
SawleyAbbey
r
r
Moor
Moor
f
f
Malham Tarn e e
Malham Tarn
Above Middleham castle, dating from 1170, favourite d d N i d d e r d a l e Pateley Bishop
Bishop
Pateley
Monkton
Monkton
Bridge
Bridge
home of the young Richard III, see p182 a a Grimwith N i d d e r d a l e Nidd
Grimwith
l
Reservoir
Bordley l e Reservoir
Bordley
e
Burton
Grassington
Grassington Bishop Burton
Bishop
Leonard
Threshfield
Threshfield Nidd Thornton Leonard
Thornton
ACTIVITIES Hebden
Hebden
Dacre
Thorpe
Pack
Thorpe Burnsall Pack Dacre
Burnsall
Take the plunge in a steamy Turkish bath in the beautiful Cracoe Stones Darley RIPLEY
Stones
RIPLEY
Cracoe
Darley
Moor
Scotton
spa town of Harrogate Hetton Barden Moor Scotton
Barden
Hetton
Rylstone
Rylstone Fell Fell Hampsthwaite Knaresborough
Hampsthwaite
Knaresborough
Set your watch in Ripon when the Hornblower blows in West End F or est Moor
West End
Barden Scale
the market place at 9pm every evening Barden Scale Wharfe Washburn F or est Moor
Wharfe
Blubberhouses
Blubberhouses
Washburn
HARROGATE
Explore the poignant ruins of Jervaulx Abbey, laid waste BOLTON ABBEY Fewston HARROGATE
BOLTON ABBEY
Fewston
by Henry VIII’s henchmen Embsay Reservoirs
Embsay
Reservoirs
Draughton
Watch the young racehorses galloping out in the Draughton Pannal Follifoot
Pannal
Follifoot
F or est of Knar esbor ough
morning on the moors outside Middleham Skipton F or est of Knar esbor ough
Skipton
Addingham
Addingham
Walk into the beautiful Yorkshire Dales having packed a
delicious Wensleydale picnic from Hawes
KEY
Learn how to fly fish at Bolton Abbey, or ride a steam train, Drive route
pet the farm animals or just enjoy the scenery
178-179_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 178 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 17: Yorkshire Dales and Abbeys 179


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Harrogate to Bolton
Abbey.
Number of days: 3 days, taking it at a
gentle pace.
Distance: Around 160 km (100 miles).
Road conditions: The roads are in
good condition and not challenging.
When to go: The best time is
between spring and early autumn –
East Bolton
East Bolton Above Glorious Yorkshire Dales’ scenery Harrogate, with its green spaces, is
Hauxwell
Ab botside Common Askrigg Common Moor Moor Hauxwell between Hawes and Bolton Abbey, see p183 especially wonderful at blossom time.
Ab botside Common
Askrigg Common
Bellerby
Castle Bellerby
Castle
Hunton Patrick
Bolton
Bolton Hunton Patrick
Askrigg
Askrigg Brompton Opening times: Museums and
Brompton
Redmire
Leyburn
Bainbridge
Bainbridge Redmire Leyburn Crakehall attractions are generally open
Crakehall
Spennithorne
Widdale
Widdale Swinthwaite Spennithorne
HAWES
Swinthwaite
Wensley
Newton
Fell Fell HAWES Wensley Newton 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
MIDDLEHAM
le Willows
Bedale
Ure Ure MIDDLEHAM le Willows Bedale closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shop
W e n s l e y d a l e
Aysgarth West West opening hours are longer. Churches
W e n s l e y d a l e Aysgarth
Witton
Witton
JERVAULX
Thoralby
Thoralby JERVAULX
Penhill
Penhill Thornton are usually open until dusk.
Thornton
ABBEY
East East ABBEY Watlass
Watlass
Melmerby l e e Witton Ellingstring Snape Carthorpe Main market days: Harrogate:
Snape
Melmerby
Witton
Carthorpe
Farmers’ Market, 2nd Thu of month;
Ellingstring
Masham
Fearby
Dales Farmers’ Market, 4th Sat of
Middle Tongue
Middle Tongue C o v e r d r d a a l Fearby Masham Well Well Kirklington Ripon: Thu; Leyburn: Fri; North
Kirklington
642m 642m C o v e
Leighton
Langstr othdale Chase
Langstr othdale Chase Leighton Swinton West Tanfield month; Hawes: Produce and
Swinton
West Tanfield
Antiques Market, Tue.
Buckden Pike
Buckden Pike
701m 701m Scar House
Scar House
Masham
Little Reservoir Masham Ure Ure Melmerby Shopping: Stock up on some
Little
Melmerby
Reservoir
Moor
Whernside
Buckden
Halton Gill
Halton Gill Buckden Whernside Moor Wath Wath Harrogate toffee and various types of
Grewelthorpe
Great
Great Middlesmoor Grewelthorpe
Middlesmoor
Whernside Angran Wensleydale – young, mature, smoked
Whernside Angran
704m 704m Reservoir
Reservoir
Laverton Kirkby Malzeard
Hutton
Laverton Kirkby Malzeard Hutton etc. Look out, too, for produce from
Conyers
NOR TH YORKSHIRE
Wharfe
Wharfe
Kettlewell NOR TH YORKSHIRE Conyers Nidderdale farms, such as beef or
Kettlewell
Arncliffe RIPON Marton chicken. And there is also good local
RIPON
Marton
Winksley
Ramsgill Dallowgill
le Moor
Ramsgill Dallowgill Winksley le Moor beer to be enjoyed along the way.
W
Arncliffe W
Moor
Moor
L i t t o n d a l e
L i t t o n d a l e
h
h
Gouthwaite
Gouthwaite Fountains Littlethorpe Major festivals: Harrogate: Music
Littlethorpe
a
a
Fountains
Conistone Reservoir Sawley Abbey
Conistone
Reservoir
SawleyAbbey
r
r
Moor Festival, Jul; Ripon: Ripon International
Moor
f
f
Malham Tarn e e
Malham Tarn
Pateley Bishop Festival (music, arts, architecture and
Bishop
Pateley
Monkton
d
d
Bridge
Bridge Monkton
Grimwith
Grimwith N i d d e r d a l e Nidd nature), Sep; Leyburn: Dales Festival
a
a
Reservoir
l
Bordley e e Reservoir of Food, May.
Bordley
l
Burton
Grassington
Grassington Bishop Burton
Bishop
N i d d e r d a l e
Leonard
Threshfield Nidd Thornton Leonard
Threshfield
Thornton
Hebden
Hebden DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Dacre
Pack
Thorpe
Thorpe Burnsall Pack Dacre
Burnsall
Stones
Cracoe
RIPLEY
Cracoe Stones Darley RIPLEY Families can enjoy a day shopping in
Darley
Moor Scotton
Moor
Scotton
Hetton
Barden
Hetton Barden Harrogate, then head for the steam
Rylstone
Rylstone Hampsthwaite
Hampsthwaite
Fell Fell Knaresborough railway and visit the children’s farm
Knaresborough
West End
West End
F or est Moor
Barden Scale Wharfe Washburn F or est Moor and parkland at Bolton Abbey. Garden
Barden Scale
Blubberhouses
Blubberhouses HARROGATE lovers and history buffs will enjoy the
Wharfe
Washburn
HARROGATE
BOLTON ABBEY
Fewston
BOLTON ABBEY Fewston market town of Ripon, the magnificent
Embsay Reservoirs ruined Fountains Abbey and water
Embsay
Reservoirs
Draughton
Draughton Pannal Follifoot gardens nearby, as well as the castle
Follifoot
Pannal
F or est of Knar esbor ough
F or est of Knar esbor ough and gardens at Ripley. Follow the steps
Skipton
Skipton
Addingham
Addingham of royalty through the picturesque
Dales, from Middleham with its castle,
to Leyburn with its great views, on to
0 kilometres 6
Hawes for its famous cheese and then
0 miles 6 to Jervaulx Abbey for its enchanting
ruins. For full details, see p183.
178-179_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 179 30/03/2017 14:16

180 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Harrogate
North Yorks; HG1 1BS
This vibrant and elegant spa town, on the edge of the Dales, grew up
around a sulphur well, enclosed within the Royal Pump Room built in
1842. Modern visitors will find a wide choice of boutiques, antique
shops, restaurants and bars, and plenty of green spaces in Crescent
Garden and Valley Gardens. The vast open park, “The Stray”, was created
in 1778 so that the people of Harrogate could access the springs.

A two-hour walking tour 20th centuries. At the 19th-century
From the car park walk up Montpellier Royal Pump Room Museum 4 (open
Road to the tourist office, housed in daily) on Crown Place, built around
the Royal Baths 1 on Crescent Road. the Old Sulphur Well, try some of the
Dating from 1897, the baths were strongest sulphur water in Europe.
once a key destination for the health- Head into Valley Gardens 5 (open
conscious rich, who came for the daily) opposite and follow the stream
Above Pretty flowers of Crescent Gardens in sulphur water, peat baths and other to see the restored 1930s Colonnade,
front of the Royal Hall, Harrogate delights. Inside, the Turkish baths, Magnesia Pump Room and Sun
with original Victorian tiles, have been Pavilion. Return to the Royal Pump
VISITING HARROGATE
restored to their 19th-century glory. Room and head right up Royal Parade
Parking Facing away from Crescent Gardens, and right at the roundabout, past the
Follow signs for centre, for parking on and with the baths on the right, turn stately Crown Hotel, up Cold Bath
Montpellier Road or Union Street left into Ripon Road past the Royal Road, noting the fine Georgian houses.
Tourist Information Hall, built in 1903, and take Swan Road Turn left into Queens Road and left
Royal Baths, Crescent Road, HG1 2RR; on the left. It was at the Old Swan into Lancaster Road to West Park Stray.
01423 537 300; www.yorkshire.com
Hotel 2 that crime writer Agatha Turn right down Beech Grove and left
Christie was found after crashing her onto Otley Road towards the Prince
WHERE TO STAY
car and going missing in 1926. Booked of Wales roundabout. Turn right onto
HARROGATE in as Theresa Neele, her husband’s Trinity Road. Admire the Gothic-style,
April House moderate mistress, she claimed amnesia. Visit 19th-century Trinity Church 6, then
This small, friendly B&B in a Victorian the Mercer Art Gallery 3 (closed Mon cross Leeds Road and enter the
house in a quiet avenue offers rooms except Bank Hols; Sun, pm only) on Swan marvellous public amenity of The
run by friendly hosts. Road, with its fine art collection of Stray 7. The tree-shaded path across
3 Studley Road, HG1 5JU; 01423 561 2,000 works, mainly from the 19th and the park leads to the domed Tewit
879; www.aprilhouse.com
Well, England’s oldest
Ascot House moderate 0 metres 400 spa. Here, in 1571,
Centrally located, this small, relaxed William Slingsby
Victorian hotel has elegant and R 0 yards 400
spacious rooms, and a good restaurant. Old Swan came upon a spring,
Hotel
53 King’s Road, HG1 5HJ; 01423 531 KING’S RD and, tasting from it,
005; www.ascothouse.com was reminded of the
Crescent CHELTENHAM PA R
SWAN ROAD IPON ROAD Royal
Old Swan Hotel moderate Mercer Art Gallery CRESCENT RD Baths health-giving waters
Gdns
This Victorian hotel has contemporary Royal Pump of European spas.
rooms, a famous glass-ceilinged Room Museum Either follow Slingsby
restaurant and peaceful gardens. PARADE CAM BRIDGE RD Walk across the rail-
Swan Road, HG1 2SR; 01423 500 055; Bettys
ROYAL
www. classiclodges.co.uk JAMES STREET way to appreciate the
Valley size of the park – or
RIPLEY Gardens ALBERT STREET S T A T I O N P A R A D E head back to town
The Boar’s Head moderate along West Park
Friendly hotel owned by the Ingilbys CO L D B ATH ROAD VICTORIA AVE
has “olde worlde” but comfortable VALLEY DRIVE Street for refresh-
rooms that include access to the castle. W E S T P A R K S T R E E T ments at Yorkshire’s
Ripley Castle Estate, HG3 3AY; 01423 famous tea rooms,
771 888; www.boarsheadripley.co.uk V I C T O R I A R O A D B E E C H G R O V E Bettys 8, on the left,
RIPON Y O R K P L before heading back
The Old Deanery moderate West Park to the car park.
Stray
The
This small historic, central hotel offers LANCASTER RD Stray ª Head north along
individually designed en-suite rooms. Q U EE N S R O A D LEEDS Parliament Street (the
There’s also a decent restaurant. O T L E Y R O A D A61). Take the left fork
Minster Road, HG4 1QS; 01765 600 Trinity Church
003; www.theolddeanery.co.uk to enter Ripley. Free
T RIN IT Y RD ROAD
parking by the castle.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
180-183_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 180 20/07/18 7:24 PM

DRIVE 17: Yorkshire Dales and Abbeys 181
















Above left Agatha Christie’s hideout, the Old
2 Ripley ª Exit the village, bearing right on the Swan Hotel, Harrogate Above centre The
North Yorks; HG3 3AY A61. After 10 km (6.3 miles), take east end window of Ripon Cathedral Above
Home to the Ingilby family since the the first exit off the roundabout onto right Ripley Castle, still the Ingilby family
14th century, Ripley Castle (gardens: A6108; follow signs to the centre. home after 700 years
open daily; house: Apr–Oct, 2 or 3 tours
daily) is set among walled gardens 3 Ripon
and wooded walks, lakes and North Yorks; HG4 1QT EAT AND DRINK
a deer park with venerable Small but perfectly formed,
oaks. The kitchen garden Ripon is centred on its market HARROGATE
grows many herbs and square and has plenty for Bettys Café Tea Rooms
rare vegetable varieties. the visitor – including an inexpensive–moderate
In spring hyacinths and impressive 7th-century The original Bettys has been tempting
spring bulbs provide a cathedral. On the square, visitors since 1919, with the promise
riot of colour, and in the Hornblower “sets the of “something fresh and dainty”. There
is an extensive choice of cooked food,
summer the flower borders watch” by blowing his horn as well as over 300 breads, cakes and
are spectacular. Inside, in each corner at 9pm – a 50 different teas and coffees.
seven rooms are open to Stained-glass window, tradition dating from the 1 Parliament Street, HG1 2QU; 01423
the public for guided tours. Ripon Cathedral 11th century. 814 070; www.bettys.co.uk
Explore a family history of Take the B6265 west, Hales Bar inexpensive–moderate
political, military, religious and social turning left for Fountains Abbey and The town’s oldest pub has retained its
turbulence, from the Renaissance Studley Royal (open daily). This World Victorian character using mirrors and
to the Industrial Revolution. The Heritage Site contains a Cistercian working gas lights, and has friendly
staff, real ale and good simple food.
delightful estate village of Ripley, abbey founded in 1132, the most The odd whiff of sulphur wafts from
adjoining the castle, was built in the complete abbey ruins in the country, the springs that flow below the cellar.
1820s on the whim of Sir William and a truly spectacular and ornate 1 Crescent Road, HG1 2RS; 01423 725 570;
Ingilby, who, inspired by his European Georgian water garden. www.halesbar.co.uk; no food on Mon
travels, endowed it with a Hôtel de Ville ª Head northwest on the A6108 and Norse moderate–expensive
(town hall) on a square with stocks, a follow signs for Jervaulx Abbey. There At night Baltzersen’s café turns into
market cross and a war memorial. is on-site parking with an honesty box. a relaxed restaurant serving Nordic-
influenced cuisine. Fresh, seasonal
produce is used to create à la carte,
early evening and tasting menus.
22 Oxford Street, HG1 1PU; 01423 202
363; www.norserestaurant.co.uk
RIPON
Lockwoods moderate–expensive
This is a popular family-run lunchtime
café bar and evening restaurant just
off the square, serving sandwiches,
light lunches and more ambitious
dinners from an eclectic menu.
83 North Street, HG4 1DP; 01765 607
555; www.lockwoodsrestaurant.co.uk;
closed Mon

Left The wrought iron Art-Deco canopy of
Bettys Café Tea Rooms, Harrogate




180-183_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 181 20/07/18 7:24 PM

182 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


4 Jervaulx Abbey Queen of Scots dropped her shawl
North Yorks; HG4 4PH in her flight from Bolton Castle, where
Founded in 1156, this once-great she was imprisoned in 1538–9. Climb
Cistercian monastery is today in the escarpment for a short walk and
private hands, but allows public great views across Wensleydale. Power
access. Declared forfeit to the Crown walkers can try the 11-km (7-mile) walk
under Henry VIII (see p192), its roof to Bolton Castle (and get the bus back).
was stripped of lead and the church For instructions, visit www.dalesbus.org.
destroyed by gunpowder. What ª From Leyburn take the A684
survived such vandalism is a place west through the Yorkshire Dales
of utter peace and charm, in a beau- National Park to Hawes. Aysgarth
tiful wildflower meadow amid the Falls, on the way, is a good place
Above Jockeys taking the young racehorses Yorkshire Dales. Tour the remains of to stop for a picnic.
out for exercise, Middleham this enchanting building including the
dormitory, kitchen, parlour, infirmary
and cloister. The home-made cakes
in the tearooms are excellent, too.
ª Continue on A6108 to Middleham;
park for free on the cobbled square.

WHERE TO STAY 5 Middleham
North Yorks; DL8 4QG
MIDDLEHAM This historic town boasts an impressive
Lindmar House moderate castle, two market places and a
One of a number of decent options racehorse training stables. Visitors
clustered around the town’s square. can watch the jockeys riding out in
This elegantly furnished Georgian
house offers three stylish rooms. the morning on the moors beyond
Market Place, DL8 4NR; 01969 623 616; Middleham Castle (Oct–Mar: closed
www.lindmarhouse.uk Sat & Sun). This castle was from 1461
home to Richard, Duke of York, who Above Aysgarth Falls in the picturesque Lower
The Priory moderate
Overlooking Middleham Castle, this would ascend to the throne for a Wensleydale valley
magnificent building dates back to brief reign as Richard III in 1483.
the 17th century. The spacious rooms Chambers and lodgings were added Wensleydale
feature freestanding copper baths over time to the 12th-century keep
and Zoffany wallpaper. The hosts This wonderful cheese is handmade
are friendly and welcome dogs too. to create a more luxurious palace. using milk from cows grazing on the
West End, DL8 4QG; 01969 623 279; Take the A6108 northwest across sweet pastures in Upper Wensleydale.
www.priorymiddleham.co.uk a 19th-century bridge over the River White Wensleydale is a young cheese,
with a clean, mild, slightly sweet
The White Swan moderate Ure to pretty Leyburn, filled with flavour. It can be bought, along with
Overlooking Market Square, the White craft shops, galleries, a chocolatier mature and oak-smoked and ewes’
Swan subsumed the old post office and a tea pottery. It’s also an excel- milk versions at the Wensleydale
and underwent refurbishment, adding lent place for walking. At the top of Creamery shop and visitors’ centre on
a smart brasserie. the left on Gayle Lane on the way out
Market Place, DL8 4PE; 01969 622 093; the market place, follow signs for the of Hawes (www.wensleydale.co.uk).
www.whiteswanhotel.co.uk Leyburn Shawl, supposedly where Mary
HAWES Below The haunting ruins of Jervaulx Abbey in beautiful bucolic surroundings
The Stone House moderate
This charming Edwardian country
house, north of Hawes, comes with
a glorious setting, chic rooms, log
fires, tennis court and a sunny garden.
Sedbusk, DL8 3PT; 01969 667 571;
www.stonehousehotel.co.uk
BOLTON ABBEY
Devonshire Arms expensive
This country house has been in
the Devonshire family since 1753.
Furnished with antiques, it is gloriously
situated and offers every comfort,
including a spa, sauna, tennis courts,
and a range of good restaurants.
Bolton Abbey, BD23 6AJ; 01756 718
111; www.thedevonshirearms.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


180-183_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 182 20/07/18 7:24 PM

DRIVE 17: Yorkshire Dales and Abbeys 183
















Above (all) Bolton Abbey, extensively
6 Hawes (open daily; www.boltonabbey.com), damaged during the Dissolution of the
North Yorks; DL8 3NT located on the banks of the River Monasteries in 1539
Pretty, bustling Hawes, at the head of Wharfe, was founded by Augustinian
Wensleydale, valley of the waterfalls, is monks in 1154. Although the priory
Yorkshire’s highest market town. There buildings were partially destroyed
are some fine walks to be enjoyed during the Dissolution of the
from here; visit www.wensleydale.org Monasteries, the Parish Church of
for directions. Pick up picnic supplies St Mary and St Cuthbert survived,
from the Wensleydale Creamery (open and continues to this day. The ruins
daily) and see how they make the are best explored in the company
famous cheese. Tuesday is market of a volunteer guide or by down-
day and stalls of produce line the loading a detailed map from EAT AND DRINK
streets. Dales Countryside the website and planning
Museum (open daily) is also a visit. AROUND MIDDLEHAM
well worth a visit, with Bolton Abbey offers George and Dragon moderate
displays about the a very different expe- This 17th-century coaching inn
history, people and rience from dreamy on the A684 between Hawes and
landscape of the region, Jervaulx; there is so Leyburn, serves soup, sandwiches
housed in the converted much to do in its and full meals, using local ingredients
such as a trio of Masham sausages
railway station. Wensleydale Creamery 12,140 hectares and Black Sheep beer-battered fish.
ª Head south on Gayle sign, Hawes (30,000 acres), including Aysgarth, DL8 3AD; 01969 663 358;
Lane to Buckden. Turn right over 130 km (80 miles) www.georgeanddragonaysgarth.co.uk
on the B6160 all the way to Bolton of paths for riverside or moorland The Sandpiper Inn moderate
Abbey. Use on-site car parks. walks, a steam train for a nostalgic Well-kept ales and inventive cooking
trip to Embsay, stocked rivers for fly from a changing menu are on offer
7 Bolton Abbey fishing (with lessons available, if at this traditional inn. Try some home-
made soup, a Wensleydale sandwich,
Skipton; N Yorks; BD23 6EX needed), woods and parkland for fish and chips or pressed Dales lamb.
Now owned by the Duke and picnics, a children’s farm and a range Market Place, Leyburn, DL8 5AT; 01969
Duchess of Devonshire, Bolton Abbey of visitors’ shops and places to eat. 622 206; www.sandpiperinn.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Gardens and History Royalty in the Dales
Choose from family fun around Staying at Ripon 3, visit its cathedral Visit the castle at Middleham 5,
Harrogate, touring the beautiful before heading off to Fountains former haunt of Richard III; pop across
gardens of Fountains Abbey and Ripley Abbey and Water Gardens. After to quaint Leyburn and walk in the
Castle, or a day out in the Dales. walking around the best-preserved steps of Mary Queen of Scots up to
Cistercian abbey in England, go on Leyburn Shawl to see the great views.
Town and Country
Explore Harrogate 1, taking in its to historic Ripley 2 for a picnic in Enjoy the drive to Hawes 6 to stock
pretty flower gardens, fine architecture the castle’s deer parks, gardens or the up on cheese for a picnic on the way
and spa facilities. Head to Bolton estate village, or just make use of through the Dales to the graceful
Abbey 7 to ride a steam train, see the tearooms. Return to Ripon for ruins of Jervaulx Abbey 4, destroyed
some farm animals, go fishing and just dinner and to hear the Hornblower. by King Henry VIII.
enjoy the glorious countryside. Take the B6265 to Fountains Abbey; Follow the instructions in the drive to
From Harrogate take the scenic A59, head down Fountains Lane to B6165 to Hawes and on to the B6160, but turn
then B6160 to Bolton Abbey. Ripley. Return via the A61 and A6108. off left at Kettlewell back to Middleham.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


180-183_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 183 20/07/18 7:24 PM

184-185_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 184 20/07/18 7:47 PM

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Cardiff
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Bristol
Cardiff
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 18 Manchester London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol London London
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
North Yorkshire
Moors & Coast
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh York to Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle
Carlisle Carlisle Sutton Park Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Highlights
• Historic York
Walk through this living museum of
a city with its great Minster, medieval
streets and Georgian townhouses
• The grandest stately homes
Admire the splendours of Castle
Howard and lovely Sutton Park
• Wild North York Moors
Explore this airy expanse of heather,
woodland and roller coaster dales on
foot, by bike or by steam train
• Atmospheric abbeys
See the poignant ruins at Rievaulx
and Guisborough, and Gothic Whitby,
an inspiration for the story of Dracula
• Fun and fishing on the coast
Make a splash in the fishing towns and
seaside resorts on this beautiful coast
Heather adds colour to the hills and valleys
of the North York Moors, Rosedale, Yorkshire
184-185_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 185 20/07/18 7:47 PM

186 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

North Yorkshire Moors and Coast
Marske Saltburn
by the Sea
England’s largest county, North Yorkshire is strewn with picturesque REDCAR &
villages, old market towns, stately homes and castles, historic CLEVELAND Brotton Loftus STAITHES
churches, romantic ruins, and so much more. Its coastline is Ormesby Skelton Easington Hinderwell
variously quaint, bustling and unspoilt. Its high, heather- Marton Guisborough Roxby
clad moorland is stirringly beautiful with great vistas Newton-under- GISBOROUGH Ellerby
Roseberry
where sheep graze peacefully. There are some purely Nunthorpe PRIORY Mickleby Lythe Sandsend
scenic stretches of dramatic road. This drive, which Guisborough Dunsley WHITBY
Moor
passes through the Howardian Hills and the centre Seamer GREAT AYTON
of the North York Moors National Park, before Stokesly Easby Kildale Castleton Ainthorpe Lealholm Aislaby Ruswarp
reaching the seaside, provides more than a glimpse Broughton s Esk Egton Sleights Sneaton Hawsker
of all these aspects. The trip takes the historic city Ingleby l l Westerdale Egton Bridge Robin
Greenhow
of York for its point of departure, with a walk Carlton H i Egton High GROSMONT Hood’s Bay
at the heart of this wonderful city. Westerdale Moor
Moor
d Goathland
n Nor th Y or k Moor s
C l e v e l a Farndale East Wheeldale
Chop Gate
Moor
Rosedale Abbey
Seven
NO R T H Y O RKSHIRE
Dove
Seph
Helmsley Hodge Lastingham Newton
Moor
Hawnby HUTTON- Cropton
Fadmoor Lockton
LE-HOLE
H a m b l e t o n H i l l s
Old Byland Pockley Kirkbymoorside
Middleton
RIEVAULX ABBEY HELMSLEY Sinnington
Cold Kirby PICKERING Thornton-le-
Dale
Scawton Marton
Harome Normanby Wilton
Above Sandsend, just north of Whitby, a small Oldstead Vale of Pick er ing
town with a long sandy beach, see p191 Oswaldkirk Nunnington
Kilburn
Kirby
Ampleforth Brawby Misperton
Stonegrave
Coxwold Great
ACTIVITIES Hovingham Barton Habton
le Street Rye Rillington
Oulston Yearsley
Climb York Minster’s 275 steps and look out over the delightful H o w a r d i a n H i l l s Amotherby
warren of medieval streets and buildings Coneysthorpe Old Malton
Crayke Terrington Malton
Enjoy a warm Yorkshire Fat Rascal – a traditional rich fruit and nut Easingwold YORKSHIRE CASTLE Settrington
HOWARD
scone – at Bettys Tea Rooms, York LAVENDER Menethorpe
Stillington Welburn North
Revisit Brideshead, actually Castle Howard, the palatial home used Sheriff Langton Grimston
as a setting in the TV series and film of Evelyn Waugh’s classic novel Hutton
Sutton- SUTTON Barton le
Cycle through beautiful Yorkshire forests near Pickering Tollerton on-the-Forest PARK Foss Flaxton Willow Leavening
Newton
Walk through time in historic buildings chronicling 400 years of upon Ouse Strensall Harton
rural history at Hutton-le-Hole, one of the country’s prettiest villages Derwent
Hop aboard a steam train on the Rail Trail over the Yorkshire moors Shipton Haxby
from Grosmont to charming Goathland, and stroll back Ouse Huntington Stockton
Rawcliffe Stamford
Bridge
Go deep-sea fishing in Whitby, a centre of Yorkshire coastal fishing
Upper Holtby Low Catton
Poppleton
Look down on Rievaulx Abbey from above – England’s foremost YORK
Cistercian abbey looks fabulous when seen from Rievaulx Terrace Acomb
CITY OF YORK
Walk along the Cleveland Way National Trail from the pretty
town of Helmsley
186-187_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 186 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 18: North Yorkshire Moors and Coast 187

0 kilometres 10 PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Marske Saltburn
by the Sea 0 miles 10
REDCAR & Brotton Start/finish: York to Sutton Park.
CLEVELAND Loftus STAITHES Number of days: 4 allowing half a
Ormesby Skelton KEY day in York.
Easington Hinderwell Drive route
Marton Guisborough
Roxby Distances: 233 km (145 miles).
Newton-under-
Roseberry GISBOROUGH Ellerby Lythe
Nunthorpe PRIORY Sandsend Road conditions: The roads are
Guisborough Mickleby Dunsley generally well-maintained. The
Moor
Seamer WHITBY steepest routes over the high moors
GREAT AYTON require the use of low gears.
Stokesly Kildale Castleton Ainthorpe Aislaby Ruswarp
Easby Lealholm
Sleights When to go: Best from late April
Broughton s Esk Egton Sneaton Hawsker through to mid-September. In
Ingleby l Westerdale
Greenhow l Egton Bridge Robin summer the heather covering the
i GROSMONT Hood’s Bay
Carlton H Egton High moors blooms a rich purple.
Westerdale Moor Opening times: Galleries, museums
Moor
d Goathland
n Nor th Y or k Moor s and attractions are generally open
C l e v e l a Farndale East Wheeldale Nov–Easter. Shops are often open
Chop Gate 10am–5pm, but often close earlier
Moor
Rosedale Abbey longer. Churches are usually open
until dusk.
Seven
NO R T H Y O RKSHIRE Main market days: York: open
Dove
Seph
Helmsley Hodge Lastingham Newton market, Shambles, daily; Pickering:
Moor street market, Mon; Whitby: Tue & Sat;
Hawnby HUTTON- Cropton
Fadmoor LE-HOLE Lockton Helmsley: Fri; Guisborough: Thu & Sat.
H a m b l e t o n H i l l s
Old Byland Pockley Kirkbymoorside Shopping: Look out for Whitby jet
Middleton jewellery and local smoked kippers;
RIEVAULX ABBEY HELMSLEY Sinnington Above Pretty Old Malton, on the road
Cold Kirby PICKERING Thornton-le- from Castle Howard to Pickering, see p189 chocolate in York; heather honey from
Dale
Scawton Marton the Yorkshire moors; and knitwear made
Harome Normanby Wilton with wool from local sheep breeds.
Oldstead Vale of Pick er ing
Kilburn Oswaldkirk Nunnington Major festivals: York: JORVIK Viking
Kirby
Ampleforth Brawby Misperton Festival, Feb; The Great Yorkshire
Stonegrave Fringe, July; Food and Drink Festival,
Coxwold Great
Hovingham Barton Habton Sep; National Book Fair, Sep; Food
le Street Rye Rillington and Drink Festival, Sep; Whitby:
Oulston Yearsley H o w a r d i a n H i l l s Amotherby Regatta and Carnival, mid-Aug; Folk
Coneysthorpe Old Malton Week, late Aug.
Terrington
Crayke
Easingwold YORKSHIRE CASTLE Malton Settrington
LAVENDER HOWARD
Menethorpe
Stillington Welburn North
Langton
Sheriff Grimston
Hutton DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Sutton- SUTTON Barton le
Tollerton on-the-Forest PARK Willow Leavening Below The glorious view from the Chimney
Foss Flaxton Bank, on the road to Rosedale, see p190 See the Minster and medieval streets
Newton Harton of York, then explore the palace and
upon Ouse Strensall grounds of Castle Howard, enjoy some
Derwent aromatic lavender and finish at the
Shipton Haxby Georgian mansion of Sutton Park. From
Huntington Stockton Pickering, explore the moors by foot,
Ouse
Stamford
Rawcliffe bike or steam train and marvel at some
Bridge
Upper Holtby Low Catton frescoes; in Hutton-le-Hole, see historic
Poppleton buildings and a take a thrilling high
YORK
Acomb moor drive. From Whitby, see the
ruined abbey, take a fishing trip, visit
CITY OF YORK
Grosmont for a steam-train ride, then
walk home. For full details, see p193.
186-187_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 187 20/07/18 7:45 PM

188 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 York
Yorkshire; YO1 7JN
A walled city on the River Ouse and spiritual capital of the North
of England for 2,000 years, York is best explored on foot. Its rich
architectural tapestry mixes the medieval with half-timbered
Tudor and elegant Georgian. Amid the churches, galleries and
museums, cool bars, smart restaurants and open spaces abound.
A three-hour walking tour away the myths around the last
Start at the Minster 1 (open daily), Plantagenet king. Next, turn left along
York’s most striking landmark. Built of Lord Mayor’s Walk, then left again
magnesian limestone between 1220 down Gillygate. Cross to Exhibition
and 1470, this is the largest Gothic Square and York Art Gallery 4 (open
cathedral in Northern Europe, with daily), with an impressive collection of
awe-inspiring stained-glass windows. paintings and ceramics. Cross back to
Above Example of Georgian architecture at Climb the tower’s 275 steps to take the gateway into the old shopping
the heart of the city of York in the views. In Minster Yard nearby lie street of High Petergate. Stop in
the National Trust’s Treasurer’s House Café Concerto for possibly the best
and Garden 2 (closed cappuccino in town.
Nov–Feb), covering Carry on down Low
2,000 years of history. Petergate, and after
From the Minster, go Church Street bear
left up Deangate. Carry right for the higgledy-
VISITING YORK on along Goodramgate, piggledy Shambles 5.
by Lady Row, the This is one of the best-
Parking oldest houses in York, Sign for Bettys preserved medieval
York can be difficult to navigate for dating back to 1316. These Café Tea Rooms streets in Europe, lined with
drivers, so take advantage of one of
the park-and-ride sites, clearly marked are fine examples of jettied timber-framed buildings
on the major routes into the city. houses, where the upper storey dating from 1350. Once home to
overhangs the lower. Ahead, in York’s butchers, it is named for the
Tourist Information
Buy a York Pass from the tourist office if the tallest of York’s four medieval “shammels” or shelves used to display
visiting a number of attractions. gatehouses, is the Richard III the meat. Turn right down The
1 Museum Street, YO1 7DT; 01904 550 Experience 3 (open daily), stripping Pavement and onto Coppergate,
099; www.visityork.org
WHERE TO STAY
YORK B OOTH AM GI LLYG AT E LORD MAYOR’S WALK
The Bloomsbury moderate MONKGATE
Lovely Victorian house in a leafy area, Treasurer’s
close to the centre. Very friendly service EXHIBITION House and Garden
with a small car park and street parking. York Art SQUARE
Gallery
127 Clifton, YO30 6BL; 01904 634 031; STATION RD MUSEUM S T Minster Richard III
www.thebloomsburyguesthouse.com HIGH PETERGATE Experience ST MAURICE’S RD FOSS BANK
Galtres Lodge moderate D E A N G A T E
Welcoming and smart, this small,
family-run central hotel is a Georgian G O O D R A M G AT E
red-brick building with thirteen S T O N E G A T E Barley PEASHOLME GREEN
en-suite rooms and a brasserie. Bettys Café Hall
Tea Rooms
54 Low Petergate, YO1 7HZ; 01904 622 ST HELEN’S LOW PETERGATE COLLIERGATE
478; www.galtreslodgehotel.co.uk SQUARE DAVYGATE CHURCH ST SHAMBLES ST SAVIOURGATE
The Grange moderate THE STONEBOW
Upmarket hotel in substantial Regency Ouse C O N E Y S T R E E T PARLIAMENT ST
town house, offers 40 lovely, tasteful PAVEMENT
rooms, some furnished with antiques. Foss
COP PER GATE
1 Clifton, YO30 6AA; 01904 644 744; HIGH OUSEGATE
www.grangehotel.co.uk PICCADILLY
Deancourt expensive MICKLEGATE BRIDGE ST CASTLEGATE Fairfax F O S S G ATE
Centrally situated near the Minster, this CLIFFOR D ST House
attractive hotel has 36 smart rooms. 0 metres 300 TOWER S T
Duncombe Place, YO1 7EF; 01904 625 0 yards 300
082; www.deancourt-york.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

188-193_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 188 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 18: North Yorkshire Moors and Coast 189















Above left Pubs along the river Ouse, York
then left into Castlegate. At its end buy plants, herbs, scented candles Above centre Yorkshire Lavender farm,
stands a fine Georgian town house, and essential oils and feast on overlooking the Vale of York Above right The
Fairfax House 6 (open daily), home to blueberry and lavender jelly with magnificent stained glass of York Minster
a world-class collection of stuccowork, herb scones in EJ’s tearoom.
furniture and clocks. Walk down Tower ª Return to Terrington and take
Street, right onto Clifford Street, then the Malton Road, following signs to SHOPPING IN YORK
Coney Street, then right again into Castle Howard (with car park).
St Helen’s Square for yet another York For beautiful, ethical and fair trade
tradition – tea and cakes in the Art- 3 Castle Howard fashion try Maude and Tommy
Deco Bettys Café Tea Rooms 7. Cross North Yorks; YO60 7DA (1 Grape Lane; 01904 675 987) and for
British hats, including bowlers and
Davygate and halfway up Stonegate Vast gardens dotted with lakes boaters, The Hat Shop (24 Pavement,
turn right down Coffee Yard to Barley and fountains surround this veritable 01904 733 918).
Hall 8 (open daily), which recreates life palace (grounds: open daily; house: open
in a 15th-century house. Cross High daily Mar–Oct; www.castlehoward.co.uk)
Petergate back to the Minster. built over three centuries from 1699 EAT AND DRINK
ª Take the A64 north from the outer by the Howard family, who still live
ring road, After 11km (7 miles) take here. In 1981, Castle Howard was YORK
the left signed Castle Howard. Pass the Brideshead in the TV series of Evelyn Bettys Café Tea Rooms inexpensive
monument and branch left. Tourist signs Waugh’s Brideshead Revisited (and One of Yorkshire’s venerated tearooms,
Bettys’ menu is a unique mix of Swiss
lead through Terrington to the farm. again in 2007 for the film). Admire and Yorkshire specialities – try the Fat
the sumptuous Great Hall under the Rascal, a plump, warm fruit scone, or
2 Yorkshire Lavender dome, wander in the Rose Garden Betty’s Yorkshire rarebit. Cooked meals
Terrington, North Yorks; YO60 6PB or Potager and visit the striking and snacks are available all day.
This lavender farm and herb nursery Turquoise Drawing Room. 6-8 St Helen’s Square, YO1 8QP; 01904
659 142; www.bettys.co.uk
(closed late Sep–late Mar; www.yorkshire ª Return to the Malton Road and Café Concerto moderate
lavender.com) grows hundreds of continue east, passing through Malton This is an attractive, modern-European
different lavender varieties, creating a and sedate Old Malton; take the A169 café-bistro, whose walls are papered
haze of blue in summer on its south- to Pickering. Use the car park over the with sheet music. Great coffee, salads,
facing slopes. Admire the gardens, roundabout in the centre of town. baguettes and more substantial dishes.
21 High Petergate, YO1 7EN; 01904 610
478; www.cafeconcerto.biz
Walmgate Ale House & Bistro
moderate
In a historic 17th-century building,
enjoy Yorkshire Brewery ale, snacks,
a great range of local cheeses and
hearty meals either in the bar or bistro.
25 Walmgate, YO1 9TX; 01904 629 222;
www.walmgateale.co.uk
Melton’s expensive
Excellent restaurant with a firm
commitment to home-cooking and
Yorkshire ingredients such as Yorkshire Anno: Melton’s moved down
duck breast and local cheeses. due to change in price
7 Scarcroft Road, YO23 1ND; 01904 634 category
341; www.meltonsrestaurant.co.uk
Left Castle Howard, one of Britain’s finest
historic houses and gardens
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


188-193_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 189 20/07/18 7:45 PM

190 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING WHITBY
4 Pickering
Parking North Yorks; YO18 8DY
Park on Whitby Station forecourt or turn This market town is an excellent base
right and pass between the Co-op and for exploring the North Yorkshire Moors
Tourist Office for plenty more spaces. National Park. Do it on foot (find walks at
Tourist Information www.northyorkmoors.org.uk) or by bike:
Langborne Road, YO21 1DN; 01723 383 the Dalby Bike Barn (01751 460 049;
636; www.discoveryorkshirecoast.com www.dalbybikebarn.co.uk), in Dalby
WHERE TO STAY Forest, hires out bikes and has details
of trails for all abilities. A more sedate
PICKERING way to see the moors is by steam
Bramwood Guest House moderate train: the North York Moors Railway
Hearty breakfasts are cooked to order (Apr–Oct; www.nymr.co.uk) runs all the
in this attractive 18th-century stone
house. Ten rooms available. way to Whitby. There’s a lot to see in
19 Hallgarth, YO18 7AW; 01751 474 Pickering, too. The charming 12th-
066; www.bramwoodguesthouse.co.uk to 13th-century Church of St Peter
and St Paul contains striking frescoes,
White Swan Inn expensive
Former coaching inn offers comfortable discovered in 1852, that were Above Charming houses of Hutton-le-Hole, built
accommodation in the main hotel and hidden under limewash during the around a series of sheep-grazed greens
more modern rooms in the stables. 16th-century Reformation. Explore
Market Place, YO18 7AA; 01751 472 Pickering Castle (Apr–Oct: open daily); on the stunning road to Rosedale. This
288; www.white-swan.co.uk
it was first built of wood in 1079 and crosses the Chimney Bank, from the
HUTTON-LE-HOLE rebuilt in stone in the 13th century. top of which the valley spread below
Burnley House moderate ª Head west on A170, turning right to resembles a vast green patchwork
Georgian farmhouse set on the green, Hutton-le-Hole. Park at top of the village. quilt. Check the brakes before attempt-
with trout stream nearby – the owners ing this drive – the descent to the
welcome guests in with tea and cake. 5 Hutton-le-Hole
Hutton-le-Hole, YO62 6UA; 01751 417 village of Rosedale Abbey is said to
548; www.burnleyhouse.co.uk North Yorks; YO62 6UA be the steepest road in England.
Hutton is built around a series of ª In Rosedale Abbey, take the road by
White Horse Farm Inn moderate
A 16th-century inn with 11 rooms, a bar greens on which local Swaledale and the Milburn Arms, opposite the green,
with real ales, and views of the valley. Blackface sheep graze. Hutton Beck signed to Egton. Turn right at sign for
Rosedale Abbey, YO18 8SE; 01751 417 runs through the village, spanned by Grosmont. Park at Grosmont station.
239; www.whitehorserosedale.co.uk pretty bridges and perfect for a picnic.
WHITBY The Ryedale Folk Museum (closed Jan) 6 Grosmont
White Horse and Griffin moderate is an amazing village within a village. North Yorks; YO22 5QE
This 17th-century building full of Twenty-one buildings reveal the lives In the beautiful Esk Valley, this village
panelling and passages has characterful of local folk over the centuries to the is known for two reasons; the first is
rooms. Enjoy kippers for breakfast. 1950s. Look inside an Elizabethan Grosmont Station (Apr–Oct; www.nymr.
87 Church Street, YO22 4BH; 01947 604 manor, a thatched cottage, a 1950s co.uk). Volunteers run this delightful
857; www.whitehorseandgriffin.com
village store – even a witch’s hovel. old station for the North York Moors
Dunsley Hall moderate–expensive Leaving the village, turn right on Railway from Pickering to Whitby. Hop
This lavish country house built in 1900, the road signed to Lastingham and aboard for a nostalgic journey and
offers 26 rooms, extensive grounds
and an excellent restaurant. then fork left (unsuitable for caravans) visit the village of Goathland. Walk
Dunsley, YO21 3TL (north of the A171
into Whitby); 01947 893 437; www. Below left North York Moors Railway steam train at Grosmont Station Below right Shop selling
dunsleyhall.com traditional beach equipment and that sugary seaside staple – rock














Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


188-193_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 190 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 18: North Yorkshire Moors and Coast 191


back via the 5-km (3-mile) Rail Trail. Its
other claim to fame is as the setting for
popular UK TV drama series Heartbeat.
ª Leave on Front Street, turning left at
Sleights on A169 and right onto A171.
Veer left onto Prospect Hill and take
3rd exit at the roundabout for seafront.
7 Whitby
North Yorks; YO21 1YN
Visually dramatic, the buzzing fishing
port and resort of Whitby clings to the
hills on the banks of the River Esk, its
hilltop abbey ruins silhouetted against
the sky. Other architectural highlights Above Ruins of Whitby Abbey, as seen from
include fine Georgian houses and Cleveland Way (www.clevelandway.co.uk). the busy fishing centre of Whitby
humbler white fishermen’s cottages, And why not catch a fish supper on
linked by ginnels (alleys). Whitby the high seas with a half-day fishing SHOPPING IN WHITBY
Abbey (open daily) was founded by St trip (01947 605 342 or 0786 624 992; Whitby Jet
Hilda in AD 655, but today’s ruins are www.whitbyfishingtrips.co.uk). Mourning for Prince Albert, Queen
the 13th-century buildings destroyed ª Head inland, turning right on the Victoria set a fashion for lustrous
by Henry VIII and further damaged by A174 through Sandsend and right to black jet jewellery. Whitby’s shore
German battleships in 1914. Staithes; use the pay-and- proved a rich source of this beautiful
Sharing the wind swept display car park. gemstone. Buy it from Whitby Jet
Heritage Centre and W Hamond
hillside is St Mary’s Church (both on Church Street).
(open daily) and its graveyard, 8 Staithes Whitby Kippers
reached by 199 steps. The North Yorks; TS13 5BH W R Fortunes (22 Henrietta Street)
two edifices provided a As a young man, the produces delicious kippered herrings,
dramatic setting in Bram explorer James Cook (1728– smoked using oak and beech shavings.
Stoker’s Gothic vampire 79) once worked in the
novel Dracula (1897). Leeds- draper’s shop in this fishing
born artist Frank Sutcliffe set Whitby fudge village, and it is here that he EAT AND DRINK
up a studio in Whitby in 1876, shop sign first dreamt of becoming a sea
taking photos of fishermen, captain and navigator. Still AROUND PICKERING
farmers, ships and moorland. See ringed by cliffs offering spectacular Willowgate Bistro moderate
his work at the Sutcliffe Gallery, walks, this pretty harbour village has Husband and wife team offer dishes
(Flowergate; www.sutcliffe-gallery.co.uk). probably changed little to this day. The such as twice-baked cheese soufflé,
and venison with chocolate sauce.
It’s a short walk to Sandsend which dramatic Boulby Cliffs, the highest on Willowgate, YO18 7BE; 01751 467 300;
has a nice, sandy beach and plenty of England’s east coast, lie to the north. www.willowgatebistro.co.uk
surf; or a longer one to family-friendly ª Go west on the A174. Turn left at Eas- WHITBY
Robin Hood’s Bay; or just climb up ington on a minor road to the A171. Turn
past the Abbey and explore the right and follow signs to Guisborough. Elizabeth Botham & Sons inexpensive
This family-run teahouse is delightfully
old fashioned. Choose a speciality tea
Below Yorkshire, moors and coast, driving over the Rosedale Chimney Bank to wash down gingerbread with
Wensleydale cheese or plum bread.
35 Skinner Street, YO21 3AH; 01947
602 823; www.botham.co.uk
Humble Pie and Mash inexpensive
An array of homemade pies, including
sausage and black pudding, homity,
and steak and stout, plus puddings
such as Jam Roly Poly, are served up
in this 17th-century building.
163 Church Street, YO22 4AS; 01947 606
444; www.humblepie.tccdev.com
Magpie inexpensive–moderate
This Whitby portside institution serves
tip-top fish dishes, including oysters,
chowders, prawn cocktail and Whitby
crab – it can get busy at lunchtime.
14 Pier Road, YO21 3PU; 01947 602
058; www.magpiecafe.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


188-193_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 191 20/07/18 7:45 PM

192 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


The Dissolution of
WALKING THE CLEVELAND
WAY NATIONAL TRAIL the Monasteries
When the Pope refused to annul his
The 176-km (109-mile) Cleveland Way marriage to Catherine of Aragon in
National Trail crosses the North Moors 1531, Henry VIII had himself declared
National Park in a horseshoe-shaped Head of the Church of England. As
route from the market town of Helmsley well as helping solve his marriage
to Saltburn on the coast and along to problems, this enabled him and his
Filey. Several companies offer a luggage- minister, Cromwell, to sieze power
transfer service for long-distance from the Catholic Church in England.
walkers, or there are many possibilities Taking his lead from the Protestant
for shorter, circular walks. Information Reformation in Europe, Henry VIII
can be found on the trail website (www. claimed to be fighting the greed and
nationaltrail.co.uk/ClevelandWay). corruption of the Church. By 1540,
over 850 monasteries and shrines
WHERE TO STAY had been closed and their wealth
and property diverted to the Crown.
AROUND GISBOROUGH PRIORY Above The splendid Gothic east gable of
King’s Head moderate Gisborough Priory
Award-winning B&B comprising two 0 Great Ayton
adjoining 17th-century cottages at 9 Gisborough Priory North Yorks; TS9 6NB
the foot of Roseberry Topping. Twelve North Yorks; TS14 6HG For eight years the boyhood home
en-suite rooms. Breakfast of bacon, black
pudding, sausages and Whitby kippers. Little remains of this 14th-century of explorer Captain James Cook, this
The Green, Newton-under-Roseberry Augustine monastery (closed Mon, is a delightful village with views of
TS9 6QR; 8 km (5 miles) on A171 Tue), but the towering skeleton of the distinctively shaped sandstone
and A173; 01642 722 318; the eastern gable gives an idea hill, the Roseberry Topping. The High
www.kingsheadinn.co.uk
of what a masterpiece the building Green has a statue of 16-year-old Cook
AROUND HELMSLEY must have been. Founded in AD looking towards Staithes and the sea.
Pheasant Hotel expensive 1119 by the Bruce family, who Low Green, on the banks of the Leven,
Stylish country hotel 5 km (3 miles) became kings of Scotland, the is a great picnic spot. The Postgate
from Helmsley, with an award-winning priory was twice rebuilt. After School is now the Captain Cook
restaurant and a quiet setting the Dissolution of the Monasteries Schoolroom Museum (Apr–Oct: open
overlooking the village duck pond.
Sixteen rooms, indoor pool and under Henry VIII, the priory was daily pm). Cook’s mother and five
comfortable lounge and bar areas. acquired by the Chaloner family, siblings are buried at the 12th-century
Harome, Helmsley YO62 5JG; 01439 who created a magnificent garden church of All Saints (Apr–Oct: open
771 241; www.thepheasanthotel.com on the site. A music festival is staged daily pm) on the Low Green.
here at the end of July. ª Carry on along the A173, taking the
Below Rievaulx Abbey, once one of the great ª Go west on the Middlesbrough B1257 left for a fabulous 32-km (20-
abbeys in Yorkshire Below right Statue of Road (A171), then left on the A173 mile) drive. Turn right at the sign for
James Cook the explorer, Great Ayton to Great Ayton. Rievaulx Abbey. Park by the entrance.
























Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


188-193_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 192 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 18: North Yorkshire Moors and Coast 193


q Rievaulx Abbey
North Yorks; YO62 5LB
This partially ruined building (Apr–Oct:
open daily; Nov–Mar: open Sat & Sun;
www.english-heritage.org.uk) is widely
regarded as England’s foremost
Cistercian abbey. The atmospheric
remains of soaring pillars and graceful
arches set on a slope in a quiet valley,
fire the imagination. Founded in 1131,
by the 13th century it was home to
140 monks and over 500 lay brothers.
An indoor exhibition explores the
farming, commercial and spiritual Above The imposing remains of the medieval
aspects of the abbey. The café serves w Helmsley Helmsley Castle
fresh locally sourced food – and cider North Yorks; YO62 5AB
from Ampleforth Abbey. Nearby, and This small but bustling market town
close to the main road, Rievaulx on the River Rye is dominated by the
Terrace and Temples (open daily) has ruins of 13th-century Helmsley Castle
two classical Georgian temples and (Mar–Oct: open daily; Nov–Feb: open
fabulous views over Rievaulx Abbey. Sat & Sun). Against this backdrop,
ª Drive on the B1257 to Helmsley. Park Helmsley Walled Garden (open Apr– EAT AND DRINK
on the market square or Cleveland Way. Oct) is a pretty 18th-century fruit and
vegetable garden and a nice place for AROUND HELMSLEY
a picnic. At the start of the Cleveland Star Inn expensive
Way National Trail, the town is a Award-winning pub restaurant offers
imaginative cooking using fresh, local
popular base for walkers. produce flavoured with herbs from
ª Leave on B1257, then A170, then the garden. Expect delicacies such as
B1257 again. Turn right onto B1363 Douglas-fir steamed mussels, ale-fed
south towards York. At Sutton-on-the- Dexter beef cooked over charcoal, and
Forest, follow signs to Sutton Park. buttermilk, rhubarb cream and sorbet
with Harome honey.
High Street, Harome, YO62 5JE (5 km/3
e Sutton Park miles southeast of Helmsley); 01439
Sutton-on-the-Forest, N Yorks; YO61 1DP 770 397; www.thestaratharome.co.uk
The home of Sir Reginald and Lady SUTTON PARK
Sheffield (house: open Jun, gardens:
open May–Aug; www.statelyhome.co.uk), Hare at Scawton expensive
This rustic country pub offers creative
this is a fine early Georgian stately fine dining in two tasting menus –
home (1730) set in pretty parkland. dishes may include razor clams
The furniture came from Buckingham and crayfish with pistachios, deer
House (before it became a palace). with truffles, and blackberries with
ewe’s milk.
There are woodland walks, a Georgian Scawton YO7 2HG (take the B1257
Above Unspoiled Helmsley, a favourite ice house and the gardens – especially and then first left); 01845 597 769;
destination for walkers on the North York Moors the roses – are stunning in summer. www.thehare-inn.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Moorland Adventures Coastal Fun
Wherever you stay, history is not far Staying at Pickering 4, see the church Be scared by the Gothic ruins of the
away, and neither are the moors. frescoes before enjoying a few hours abbey and spooky graveyard at
of energetic cycling in the Dalby Whitby 7. If the vampires aren’t
Architectural Indulgence
In York 1, see its Minster and medieval Forest. Next head for Hutton-le-Hole biting, maybe the fish will be, so try
“shambles”. Tour the splendid Castle 5 and explore the historic rural to catch some on a boat trip. If there
Howard 3 and go on to Yorkshire buildings of Rydale Folk Museum. is time, drive to Grosmont 6 to take
Lavender 2 for aromas, fresh air and Finish the day with a thrilling roller the restored steam train to pretty
lunch. Finish off with the exquisite coaster of a drive over Rosedale Goathland. Those feeling fit can walk
interiors and gardens of Sutton Park e. Chimney Bank, enjoying the views. back to Whitby on the Rail Trail.
Take the A64 north. Turn off for Castle Head west on A170, turning right to Head out of Whitby on the A171, turn
Howard and Yorkshire Lavender, then Hutton-le-Hole, then follow the signs left on the A169, turning right down
continue west to the B1363 and south. to Rosedale. Take Moor Lane south. Eskdaleside to Grosmont.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


188-193_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 193 20/07/18 7:45 PM

194-195_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 194 30/03/2017 14:17
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
WALES
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 19 Cardiff ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
The Poetry
of the Lakes
Carlisle to
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Coniston
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Highlights ENGLAND ENGLAND
• Handsome Carlisle
Tour the border county town of
Cumbria, with its splendid cathedral
complex and historic castle
• Natural wonders
Drive through luxuriant forests and
mountain passes; see nesting ospreys,
lofty waterfalls and an enormous rock
brought from Scotland by a glacier
• Jewels of the Lakeland
Make the most of the Lake District’s
prettiest and most unspoiled waters –
cruise, row, go trout fishing or just
relax by their lapping shores
• Literary landscapes
Visit the home of Wordsworth, the
celebrated lake poet; the marvellous
house of John Ruskin; and Beatrix
Potter’s charming cottage
Rowing boat on the still, clear waters of
Derwent water, Lake District
194-195_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 195 30/03/2017 14:17

196 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Poetry of the Lakes Eden Eden

This tour winds its way around the Lake District, starting with gentle miles through Kirkbampton CARLISLE
Kirkbampton
CARLISLE
green, open pastures grazed by sheep. There are also a few long stretches to cover, Aikton Aikton Scotby Scotby
amid some of the most stupendous natural scenery in all of Britain. The route entails Cumwhinton
Cumwhinton
two lovely, unchallenging passes; taking in scattered slate-roofed farms, it runs Oulton Oulton
alongside lakes great and small, touristy and tranquil. Stop-offs along the way include Dundraw Thursby Dalston Dalston
Thursby
Dundraw
Wigton
the small town of Cockermouth, bustling Keswick on Derwent Water and the famous Wigton Wreay Wreay
Waverton
Dove Cottage in Grasmere, once home to the poet William Wordsworth, who drew Waverton
Gatesgill
Red Dial
his inspiration from the surrounding natural beauty. Red Dial Gatesgill
Westnewton
Westnewton Rosley Rosley Welton Welton
Ivegill Ivegill
Aspatria
Aspatria
Mealsgate
Mealsgate Sebergham
Sebergham
Caldbeck
Caldbeck
Ireby Ireby
Gilcrux Gilcrux Plumbland Bothel Bothel Hesket Hesket
Plumbland
Newmarket
Newmarket
Uldale Uldale
Tallentire
Tallentire
CUM BRIA
Sunderland
Sunderland CUM BRIA
Derwent
Derwent
Bassenthwaite Mosedale Hutton Hutton
Bassenthwaite
Mosedale
COCKERMOUTH
COCKERMOUTH Roof Roof
Mungrisdale
Brigham
Brigham Mungrisdale
Embleton
Embleton
Skiddaw
Bassenthwaite
Blencathra
Eaglesfield
Eaglesfield Bassenthwaite Skiddaw Blencathra
931m931m
Lake Lake
868m868m
Lorton Lorton Whinlatter
Threlkeld
DeanDean Mosser Mosser Whinlatter Threlkeld
Pass Pass
Portinscale
WHINLATTER
WHINLATTER Portinscale
KESWICK
Braithwaite
FOREST PARK
FOREST PARK Braithwaite KESWICK Matterdale
Matterdale
Lamplugh
Lamplugh Newlands
Newlands
Dockray
Derwent
Loweswater
Loweswater Derwent Dockray
WaterWater Cumbr ian
Cumbr ian
Crummock
Crummock
Ullswater
Borrowdale
Above Typical Lake District cottage built with local stone, matching the dry-stone walls WaterWater Grange Grange Ullswater
Glenridding
Glenridding
BUTTERMERE
BUTTERMERE Borrowdale BOWDER Helvellyn
BOWDER
Helvellyn
STONE
Buttermere
Buttermere STONE 950m950m
Ennerdale
Ennerdale
Thirlmere
ACTIVITIES WaterWater Thirlmere Wythburn
Wythburn
HONISTER
Stonethwaite
PillarPillar HONISTER Stonethwaite Fairfield
Fairfield
PASS PASS
Soak up the history of Carlisle, close to the Scottish borders, KEY 892m892m Great Gable 873m873m
Mountains
taking in the magnificent cathedral and the doughty castle Great Gable Mountains High Street
High Street
899m899m
811m811m
Drive route
Visit a traditional brewery to see Cockermouth beer in Scafell Pike GRASMERE
Scafell Pike
production and sample the real ales in the brewery’s bar 978m978m Bow Fell GRASMERE RYDAL MOUNT
Bow Fell
902m902m RYDAL MOUNT
Langdale
Rydal Water
Watch ospreys nesting via CCTV at the Whinlatter Forest Park Langdale Rydal Water AMBLESIDE
AMBLESIDE
Below Traditional cruiser skimming across the Crinkle Crags Skelwith Kentmere
Skelwith
Crinkle Crags
Kentmere
Hard Knott
Go walking, hiking, off-road biking, sailing, canoeing – surface of Ullswater lake near Keswick, see p201 Hard Knott 859m859m Barngates
Pass Pass
Barngates
the Lake District is one vast adventure playground High Wray
High Wray
Old Man of
Old Man of
HAWKSHEAD
Coniston
Coniston HAWKSHEAD
Go underground in the last working slate mine in Britain at 803m803m
the stunning Honister Pass Windermere
Windermere
CONISTON
CONISTON Esthwaite Near Near Bowness
Bowness
Sawrey Sawrey
Spend an evening at the theatre in Keswick and emerge to BRANTWOOD Esthwaite
BRANTWOOD
WaterWater
HILL TOP
find Derwent Water lapping the shore before you Torver Torver HILL TOP Far Far
Sawrey Sawrey
Grizedale
Grizedale
Coniston
Windermere
Try and work out Sarah Nelson’s secret recipe by eating Coniston Windermere Crosthwaite
Crosthwaite
Water Water
her traditional Cumbrian gingerbread in Grasmere High High
Nibthwaite
Rusland
Nibthwaite Rusland Bowland
Bowland
Watch skilled glassblowers at work and buy a memento Blawith Blawith Bridge Bridge
from Ambleside Newby Newby
FELL FOOT PARK
Lowick Lowick Colton Colton Bridge Bridge FELL FOOT PARK
Staveley
Tour the inside of the lakeside Victorian home of John Ruskin Staveley
Backbarrow
the poet, artist, commentator and conservationist Backbarrow
High Newton
High Newton
HAVERTHWAITE
Take a pleasure cruise across Coniston on a steam yacht Greenodd HAVERTHWAITE
Greenodd
196-197_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 196 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes 197


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Eden
Eden
Kirkbampton Start/finish: Carlisle to Coniston.
Kirkbampton
CARLISLE
CARLISLE
Aikton Aikton Scotby Scotby Number of days: 5, including a half
Cumwhinton
Cumwhinton day at Carlisle.
Oulton Oulton
Thursby
Dundraw
Dundraw Thursby Dalston Dalston Distances: Approximately 217 km
Wigton Wreay Wreay (135 miles).
Wigton
Waverton
Waverton
Road conditions: The roads are good,
Gatesgill
Red Dial
Red Dial Gatesgill 0 kilometres 5 but watch out for straying sheep.
Westnewton Rosley Rosley Welton Welton
Westnewton
Ivegill Ivegill 0 miles 5 When to go: Spring is the ideal time
Aspatria
Aspatria
Mealsgate
Sebergham
Mealsgate Sebergham to see hosts of golden daffodils; May–
Jun is when the azaleas are ablaze;
Caldbeck
Caldbeck
Ireby Ireby summer is fun but busy; and Oct has
Gilcrux Gilcrux Plumbland Bothel Bothel Hesket Hesket the blaze of autumn colour.
Plumbland
Newmarket
Newmarket
Uldale Uldale
Tallentire
Tallentire Opening times: Galleries, museums
CUM BRIA
Sunderland
Sunderland CUM BRIA and attractions are generally open
Derwent
Derwent
Bassenthwaite Mosedale Hutton Hutton 10am–5pm, but often close earlier Nov–
Bassenthwaite
Mosedale
COCKERMOUTH
COCKERMOUTH Roof Roof Easter. Shops are often open longer.
Churches are usually open until dusk.
Mungrisdale
Brigham Mungrisdale
Brigham
Embleton
Embleton Main market days: Keswick: Thu &
Skiddaw
Bassenthwaite
Blencathra
Eaglesfield
931m931m
Eaglesfield Bassenthwaite Skiddaw Blencathra Sat; Carlisle: Farmers’ Market, Jun–Oct
Lake Lake
868m868m
Lorton Lorton Whinlatter
Threlkeld
DeanDean Mosser Mosser Whinlatter Threlkeld Sat; Victorian Market Hall, closed Sun.
Pass Pass
Portinscale
WHINLATTER
WHINLATTER Portinscale Shopping: Look out for gingerbread in
KESWICK
Braithwaite
FOREST PARK
FOREST PARK Braithwaite KESWICK Matterdale Grasmere, ice cream in Buttermere, fine
Matterdale
Lamplugh
Lamplugh Newlands relishes in Hawkshead and fudge in
Newlands
Dockray
Loweswater
Derwent
Loweswater Derwent Dockray
WaterWater Cumbr ian Coniston. There are also wool products
Cumbr ian
Crummock
Crummock
Ullswater
Borrowdale
WaterWater Grange Grange Ullswater and glass products from Ambleside.
Glenridding
Glenridding
BUTTERMERE
BUTTERMERE Borrowdale BOWDER Helvellyn Major festivals: Cumbria-wide:
BOWDER
Helvellyn
STONE
Buttermere
Buttermere STONE 950m950m Lake District Summer Music Festival,
Ennerdale
Ennerdale
Thirlmere
WaterWater Thirlmere Wythburn Aug; Carlisle: Blues Rock Festival,
Wythburn
HONISTER
Stonethwaite
PillarPillar HONISTER Stonethwaite Fairfield Sep; Borderlines Book Festival, Oct;
Fairfield
892m892m PASS PASS 873m873m Above Lake Windermere cruiser Cockermouth: Taste Cumbria Food
Great Gable
Great Gable High Street Princess of the Lake, see p204
Mountains
899m899m Mountains High Street Festival, Sep; Keswick: Film Festival,
811m811m
Feb; Words by the Water, Mar; Jazz
Scafell Pike
Scafell Pike Festival, May; Grasmere: Lake Artists’
GRASMERE
978m978m GRASMERE
Bow Fell
Bow Fell RYDAL MOUNT Society Summer Exhibition, Aug.
902m902m RYDAL MOUNT
Rydal Water
Langdale
Langdale Rydal Water AMBLESIDE
AMBLESIDE
Skelwith
Crinkle Crags
Crinkle Crags Skelwith Kentmere DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Kentmere
Hard Knott
Hard Knott 859m859m
Pass Pass Barngates
Barngates
High Wray
Old Man of
Old Man of High Wray Families will love discovering Carlisle
HAWKSHEAD
Coniston
Coniston HAWKSHEAD with its fortifications and cathedral,
803m803m followed by a visit to Cockermouth with
Windermere
Windermere
CONISTON
CONISTON Esthwaite Near Near Bowness its castle ruins. Continue to Whinlatter
Bowness
Esthwaite
Sawrey Sawrey
BRANTWOOD
BRANTWOOD WaterWater Forest Park for a walk or bike ride. Learn
HILL TOP
Torver Torver HILL TOP Far Far about Lakeland stone at Keswick’s
Sawrey Sawrey ancient stone circle, climb the
Grizedale
Coniston
Windermere
Coniston Grizedale Windermere Bowder Stone, cross Honister Pass,
Crosthwaite
Water Water Crosthwaite
High High go down a slate mine and take in
Rusland
Nibthwaite
Nibthwaite Rusland Bowland the scenery on a walk by Buttermere
Bowland
Blawith Blawith Bridge Bridge Lake. Poetry lovers will relish seeing
Newby Newby
FELL FOOT PARK
Lowick Lowick Colton Colton Bridge Bridge FELL FOOT PARK Wordsworth’s cottage and burial
Staveley
Staveley place at Grasmere; his home at Rydal
Backbarrow
Backbarrow Mount, as well as Ambleside and
High Newton Hawkshead – and enjoy a walk or
High Newton
HAVERTHWAITE
Greenodd
Greenodd HAVERTHWAITE go fishing. For full details, see p205.
196-197_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 197 20/07/18 7:45 PM

198 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Carlisle
Cumbria; CA3 8JA
Streets of handsome terraces surround the ancient centre of this
border city, which is still intact, atmospheric and accessible behind
the bland store fronts of the pedestrian precinct. Carlisle is characterful,
with a strong sense of civic pride and the small but beautiful cathedral
at its spiritual heart. Visitors won’t go hungry in town, since a range of
tasty options awaits here and in the countryside beyond.

A two-hour walking tour Clustered around the cathedral are
Start at the Railway Station 1 with its some fine 17th-century buildings, such
imposing Tudor-Gothic-style façade. It as the Old Registry, dated 1699, The
was designed in 1847 by Sir William Deanery with its defensive pele tower,
Tite, designer of the Bank of England and the Fratry, a 13th-century
and London’s Royal Exchange. From monastic dining room. Turn left and
Above Ancient wooden door at Carlisle’s the station it is impossible to miss the left into Abbey Street and go through
12th–14th-century castle Citadel 2 (closed to the public); its oval the gates to Tullie House Museum
East and West Towers were begun in & Gallery 5 (open daily), housed in a
1810–11 to a design by Thomas Jacobean mansion dating from 1689.
Telford and contained courts and a Its collec tions are devoted to local
prison. The West Tower has oak- social history, archaeology, wildlife,
panelled court rooms, a grand jury geology and fine arts. Leave by the
room and cells. Walk up English Street rear exit to find the Millennium
towards the city’s shopping centre. Walkway 6, a bright subway display-
VISITING CARLISLE
At the centre of the pedestrian ized ing artifacts celebrating the city. These
Parking area is Carlisle Cross, dated 1682. include the 16th-century cursing
Exit M6 at junction 43, then drive The tourist office is here, housed in the stone, recording the scathing words
down A69 Rotary Way to Warwick Old Town Hall 3 which was founded of the Bishop of Glasgow aimed at the
Road until you see Lowther Street. in 1122. Outside stands a “Victorian” marauding reivers of the borders (see
Turn right to The Lanes car park on the
left, or right to the Lowther Street car pillar box marking the fact that p209). Enter the Castle 7 by its 14th-
park. Other car parks at the Castle and England’s first such box was erected century gatehouse and portcullis onto
West Walls are clearly signposted. in Carlisle in 1853. Turn right out of the 12th-century keep that once held
Tourist Information the tourist office and enter grey and Mary Queen of Scots. Walk around the
Old Town Hall, Market Square, CA3 8JE; red stone Carlisle Cathedral 4. Its outside of the castle and enter Bitts
01228 598 596; www.visitcumbria.com glorious interior is lit by stained-glass Park at the junc tion with Castle Way.
windows, some dating from the 14th Cross the park to the River Eden and
century. Beneath a barrel-vaulted, climb the steps of Eden Bridge. To the
WHERE TO STAY starred ceiling are paintings, a carved right stands the high-rise Civic Centre;
oak Antwerp triptych dating back to to the left, hidden to all but historical
CARLISLE 1510 and 15th-century choir stalls. imagination, the course of Hadrian’s
Cornerways Guest House moderate
A conveniently situated and good value Below The remains of what was an earlier, larger version of Carlisle Cathedral
B&B. Not all rooms are en suite. Serves
full English and Continental breakfasts.
107 Warwick Road, CA1 1EA; 01228 521
733; www.cornerwaysbandb.co.uk
Mount Farm inexpensive
Spacious rooms in a barn or stable
conversion on a working farm, with
great views and delicious breakfasts.
Blackford, CA6 4ER; 5 km (3 miles)
north off A7; 01228 674 671;
www.mount-farm.co.uk
AROUND CARLISLE
Willowbeck Lodge moderate
A purpose-built Scandinavian-style lodge
offering breakfast with Craster kippers,
free-range eggs and Scotch pancakes.
Lambley Bank, Scotby, CA4 8BX; 5 km
(3 miles) east on A69; 01228 513 607;
www.willowbeck-lodge.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


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