(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes 199


0 metres 250
Eden
Bridge 0 yards 250
Eden
Bitts Park
CASTLE WAY
Carlisle
DACRE ROAD
Castle RI CKERGAT E GEORGIAN WAY
CASTLE WAY WEST TOWER ST V I C T O R I A P L A C E
Millennium
Walkway
STREET
ABBEY ST
Tullie House SCOTCH Victorian Market Hall
Museum & Old Town Hall
Gallery Carlisle S PENCER ST
Cathedral
W A R W I C K R O A D Above Elegant interiors and dining area
at David’s, Carlisle
W E S T W A L L S
LOW THER S TREET
EAT AND DRINK
E N GLI SH S TREE T
Citadel
V I A D U C T E S T A T E R O A D
CARLISLE
Railway Alexandros moderate
Station B O T C H E R G AT E T A I T S T An intimate place offering an authentic
Greek menu with a modern twists.
68 Warwick Road, CA1 1DR; 01228 592
227; www.thegreek.co.uk
Wall, along Stanwix Bank on the far opened to the public during the Bari Restaurant moderate
side of the Eden. Head back into the Summer Festival in July. There are A Bangladeshi/Indian family eatery offer-
town centre along Rickergate to pass antiques shops on Station Street, and ing traditional and contemporary dishes.
21–23 West Tower Street, CA3 8QT;
the glass-roofed Victorian Market Hall real-ale drinkers should book a tour of 01228 522 970; www.barirestaurant.
8, built in 1890, and return through 19th-century Jennings Brewery (www. co.uk
the precinct to the station. jenningsbrewery.co.uk; 01900 David’s moderate
ª Leave via the A6 (Lowther 820 362; no tours in Jan). Lakeland beef and lamb feature on
Street). Take the first ª Leave on the B5292 the menu at this Victorian town house,
exit on the roundabout for Lorton. Take the as well as wild mushroom and sherry
onto the A595, turn left left branch to stay soup. There’s a good wine list too.
at B5299, following on the B5292 to 64 Warwick Road, CA1 1DR; 01228 523
578; www.davidsrestaurant.co.uk
signs for Dalston, then Whinlatter Forest.
Caldbeck, Uldale and Thin White Duke moderate
Warm and inviting, with a stripped-
Bassenthwaite. Take Whinlatter 3 Whinlatter back interior, this bar and restaurant
B5291 and A66 for Forest Park sign Forest Park is a lively spot for dinner and drinks.
Cockermouth. At the Cumbria; CA12 5TW 1 Devonshire Street, CA3 8LG; 01228
roundabout take the B5086 into The road climbs through England’s 402 334; www.thinwhiteduke.info
Cockermouth; park in the town centre. only true mountain forest (planted COCKERMOUTH
for timber after WW1), affording The Bitter End inexpensive
2 Cockermouth fabulous views of the Lake District This friendly real-ale pub with in-house
Cumbria; CA13 9NP and across the water of the Solway brewery serves traditional sandwiches,
At the meeting of the rivers Derwent Firth into Scotland. See breeding steak-and-ale pie and fish and chips.
and Cocker, this small market town, ospreys via CCTV, or feeding siskins 15 Kirkgate, CA13 9PJ; 01900 828 993;
www.bitterend.co.uk
the birthplace of William Wordsworth and the shy red squirrels scampering
(1770–1850), is easily explored on foot. over the feeding station. The Visitors’ Wellington Farm Cafe and Tearooms
Step inside the Georgian Wordsworth Centre (www.forestry.gov.uk/whinlatter; inexpensive
A lovely place to enjoy award-winning
House (closed Fri mid-Mar–Oct, Sun–Tue 01768 778 469) has details of woodland homemade snacks and light meals.
Nov–mid-Mar) town house, where the walks, or go mountain biking on Wellington Farm, CA13 0QU (just off the
poet spent his early years, to see what the longest purpose-built trail in the A66/A5086 roundabout); 01900 822
life was like in the 1770s. Cooking Lake District, the Altura Trail. Hire 777; www.wellingtonjerseys.co.uk
demonstrations and tastings are held bikes and clothing from Cyclewise Quince & Medlar moderate
in the kitchen, and the walled garden Whinlatter (www.cyclewise.co.uk; Offering an inventive vegetarian menu
is planted with traditional varieties 017687 78711). with organic wines and great fruit drinks,
this restaurant is located close to the
of flowers, fruit and vegetables. The ª Return through High Lorton and castle in a superb Georgian building.
mostly ruined Cockermouth Castle, turn left on to B5289 to Buttermere. 13 Castlegate, CA13 9EU; 01900 823
best viewed from the riverside, is only There is a car park in the village. 579; www.quinceandmedlar.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50
198-205_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 199 20/07/18 7:45 PM

200 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN














Above left Traditional water launch, Derwent
Water, near Keswick Above right Panoramic 4 Buttermere three daily 90-minute guided tours
view over Keswick, Derwent Water and the Fells Cumbria; CA13 9UZ within the 18 km (11 miles) of tunnels.
This hamlet is scenically situated See the vast caverns being worked,
beneath looming lakeland pikes and and learn about the extraction and
crags between tranquil Buttermere processing of slate (booking essential).
Lake and larger Crummock Water. Try ª Carry along B5289 to Bowder Stone.
the eminently walkable footpath – Note the double stone bridge into
allow 2–3 hours – around Buttermere Grange village, but don’t cross in high
VISITING KESWICK (meaning “lake of the dairy pastures”); summer, when the village is packed.
Parking usually there’s a welcome ice-cream
There is pay parking by the theatre on van at the end of the walk. It is also a The Lady of the Lake
the lake and at various well-signed short walk from the village to the Mary Robinson, the pretty daughter
sites around the town. spectacular Scale Force, the highest of the landlord at the Fish Hotel,
Boating waterfall in the Lake District, with a was widely known as the “Beauty
At Derwent Water Marina, west off the single drop of 52 m (170 ft). of Buttermere”. In 1802 she married
A66, hire kayaks, rowing boats, sail boats the Hon. Alexander Augustus Hope,
and windsurfers, or have some lessons. ª Continue along the B5289 over Lieutenant-Colonel of the 14th
(Portinscale, CA12 5RF; 01768772 912; Honister Pass to the mine. Regiment of Foot. However, he was
www.derwentwatermarina.co.uk) really John Hatfield, an imposter and
5 Honister Pass bigamist and was hanged in 1803 in
WHERE TO STAY Cumbria; CA12 5XN Carlisle for forgery. Her story was the
The drive across Honister Pass is simply inspiration for the novel by author
AROUND BUTTERMERE glorious, passing skipping streams and and broadcaster Lord Melvyn Bragg,
The Maid of Buttermere.
New House Farm moderate rushing torrents, tough grass slopes
This top-notch 17th-century and rock-studded scree patches, and
guesthouse located on B5289 to everywhere shaggy Herdwick sheep. 6 Bowder Stone
Buttermere offers impressive rooms.
Lorton, Cockermouth, CA13 9UU; 07841 On the B5289, Honister Slate Mine Grange, Cumbria
159 818; www.newhouse-farm.com (open daily; 017687 77230; www.honister. Weighing 2,000 tons and standing
com) is Britain’s last working slate some 9 m (30 ft) high, this stone, you
AROUND HONISTER PASS mine and produces traditional might suppose, had simply broken
Langstrath Country Inn moderate Westmoreland green slate. It offers loose from the rock face – but it is not
There are eight very nice en-suite rooms
in this relaxed, attractive, walker-friendly
inn just off the B5289 after Honister Below A visitor from Scotland, the colossal Bowder Stone, Grange
Slate Mine. It has bags of personality
and serves great food – try the local
lamb, Cumbrian cheeses and ales.
Stonethwaite, Borrowdale, CA12 5XG;
017687 77239; www.thelangstrath.
com; closed Dec and Jan
AROUND KESWICK
Riverside Escape moderate
Located close to the town centre,
this immaculate guesthouse has
three stylish rooms and a self-service
apartment, plus views of the
mountains and the river. Breakfast
in bed is part of the friendly service.
On-site parking is available.
Crosthwaite Road, Keswick CA12 5PG;
01768 606 739; www.riversideescape.
co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


198-205_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 200 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes 201


Far left The old stone bridge over the River
Greta at Keswick Left Dove Cottage, home of
celebrated Lakes poet William Wordsworth
SHOPPING IN GRASMERE
Sarah Nelson’s Grasmere gingerbread is
sold at Grasmere Gingerbread Shop,
in what was once the Lych Gate village
school where Wordsworth taught.
(Church Cottage, Ambleside, LA22 9SW;
015394 35428)

local rock, and was probably carried and outside are eight yew trees that EAT AND DRINK
here all the way from Scotland by the he planted. One now marks the grave KESWICK
glaciers of the Ice Age. It is traditional that Wordsworth shares with his wife, Square Orange inexpensive
to shake hands with a friend under Mary. Nearby are buried his sister Continental-style café-bar offering great
the stone and climb to the top. Dorothy, four of his children, Mary’s coffee, stone-baked pizzas and tapas. It
ª Carry along B5289 into Keswick. sister, and Samuel Taylor Coleridge’s also has indoor games for rainy days.
son, Hartley. Just beyond the village, 20 St John’s Street, CA12 5AS; 017687
7 Keswick on A591 there is free parking on the 73888; www.thesquareorange.co.uk
Cumbria; CA12 5JR left for Dove Cottage (closed 24–31 Fellpack moderate
A tourist magnet, this buzzy town has Jan; www.wordsworth.org.uk), home This small restaurant serves dishes such
as smoked haddock with hazelnut and
a stunning setting on Derwent Water, to William, and Dorothy from 1799 to parsley freekeh, roast chicken with
surrounded by the fells of Saddleback, 1808. Here, the poet enjoyed a golden pasta and pear sticky toffee pudding
Helvellyn and Grisedale Pike. age of creativity, and the whitewashed 19 Lake Road, CA12 5BS; 01768 771 177;
Attractions include the walls, flagged floors and www.fellpack.co.uk; closed Mon–Wed
beautifully situated dark panelling resonate dinner
Theatre by the Lake, with his presence. Here, Highfield Restaurant moderate
(www.theatrebythelake.com too, Dorothy wrote her With a menu that draws on local
with its professional Grasmere Journals. In seasonal produce, this place serves
Cumbrian beef, lamb and wild venison.
drama company and art 1802 William married The Heads, CA12 5ER; 017687 72508;
galleries. Alternatively, Mary Hutchinson, who www.highfieldkeswick.co.uk
take to the water in a Sign for local ice joined the household. GRASMERE
rowing boat or kayak, or on cream, Buttermere Guests included fellow poet
a cruise. East of town, on the Samuel Taylor Coleridge, and The Jumble Room moderate
This quirky restaurant with a changing
A591, stands the enigmatic Castlerigg novelists Sir Walter Scott and Thomas menu serves delights such as traditional
Stone Circle with distant views of de Quincey. The garden, a “domestic fish and chips as well as the more exotic
Skiddaw, Blencathra and Lonscale Fell. slip of mountain”, has been restored Persian lamb or Lebanese chicken.
With an astronomically significant to the semi-wild state planned for it Langdale Road, LA22 9SU; 015394
alignment, the circle of 38 stones by William and Dorothy. 35188; www.thejumbleroom.co.uk
holds a rectangle of 10 more and ª Follow A591 alongside glorious Below The enigmatic Castlerigg Stone Circle,
dates from around 3,000 BC. Rydal Water to Rydal Mount. one of the earliest stone circles in Britain
ª Head south on A591 to Grasmere.
The Hardy Herdwick
Incredibly enduring, Herdwick sheep
are native to the Lake District, where
they have grazed since the 12th
century or earlier. The meat is prized
by Cumbrian gourmets. It gets its
distinctive taste from a diet of fell
grasses and heather. The wool is
tough, wiry and long-lasting.

8 Grasmere
Cumbria; LA22 9SH
On the Wordsworth trail, Grasmere
has the sturdy little village church of
St Oswald’s. Inside, there is a glass
case holding the poet’s prayer book
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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202 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING AMBLESIDE
9 Rydal Mount the A593 towards Coniston, fork left
Parking Rydal, near Ambleside; LA22 9LU onto the B5286 to Hawkshead. Park in
Pay-and-display car park on the right William and Mary Wordsworth moved the pay car park outside the village.
on the drive into town. to 16th-century Rydal Mount (closed
Tourist Information Jan; Mon & Tue in winter & Dec 25–26;
Central Buildings, Market Cross The Lake Poets
LA22 9BS; 015394 32582; 015394 33002; www.rydalmount.co.uk) in The first mention of the Lake School
www.visitcumbria.com 1813, with three of their children (two of poetry – Romantic poets who
had died the previous year), William’s
WHERE TO STAY lived in the Lake District – appeared
sister Dorothy, and sister-in-law Sara. It in 1817. These were Samuel Taylor
AMBLESIDE was to be his home for the last 37 years Coleridge, Robert Southey and
Elder Grove moderate of his life. Use a guide leaflet to tour the William Wordsworth, although
This friendly guesthouse has house and garden and see touching Wordsworth alone was born here.
knowledgeable hosts and is renowned relics such as the poet’s leather picnic Much of his poetry was confessional
for extensive and delicious breakfasts. box, and correspondence concerning and autobiographical – highly
Lake Road, LA22 0DB; 015394 32504; original in its day. His Daffodils, a
www.eldergrove.co.uk his appointment as Poet Laureate. delirious evocation of spring beauty
Walk to nearby Rydal Water, one of in the Lakes, is probably his best-
High Wray Farm moderate Wordsworth’s favourite places. known poem and one of the most
Peaceful and traditional farmhouse loved in the English language.
B&B 5 km (3 miles) south of Ambleside, ª Continue on the A591 to Ambleside,
with brass beds in all three rooms. find pay parking on right.
Lovely views.
High Wray, LA22 0JE; 015394 32280; 0 Ambleside q Hawkshead
www.highwrayfarm.co.uk
Cumbria; LA22 9BS Cumbria; LA22 0NT
HAWKSHEAD A favourite destination for walkers, This is a charming village, with pretty
Yewfield moderate Ambleside lies at the heart of the cottages, an old Court House, and
Peaceful vegetarian guesthouse set Lake District National Park and the Beatrix Potter Gallery (closed Nov–
in extensive grounds. The Tower suite abounds in pubs, restaurants and mid-Feb) devoted to the children’s
has the best views. hotels. It was here that Wordsworth author, with some of her original
Hawkshead Hill LA22 0PR; 015394
36765; www.yewfield.co.uk carried out his job as distributor of artwork. For eight years from 1779,
stamps. Visit Ambleside Sheepskins Wordsworth was one of 100 boys
(see right), and the tiny 17th-century attending Hawkshead Grammar
Below top left Terrace of Victorian stone Bridge House, built on the old School (closed Nov–Mar; Sun). You
B&Bs, Ambleside Below top right Rydal packhorse bridge. In this 4 x 2 m can see where he (allegedly) carved
Water, one of the smallest lakes in the area (13 x 6 ft) former apple store, Mr his name on a desk. Nearby is the
Below left The Old Corn Mill, Ambleside, and Mrs Rigg brought up six children vast Esthwaite Water, described in
dating back to 1680 Below right Rydal in the 1850s. Wordsworth’s Prelude as “our little
Mount, Wordsworth’s final home ª Start off on the A591, turn right for lake”, stocked with fish and popular


























Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


198-205_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 202 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes 203















Above left Colourful Buckle Yeat Guesthouse,
with anglers. Permits, tackle, tuition Hill Top Near Sawrey Above centre Tower Bank Arms,
and boat hire are available from the Near Sawrey, Ambleside; LA22 0LF Near Sawrey, which features in some of
Esthwaite Water Trout Fishery (015394 Home to children’s author Beatrix Potter Beatrix Potter’s stories Above right Eccentric
36541; www.hawksheadtrout.co.uk) on the from 1905, Hill Top (015394 36269; check teapot topiary in Hawkshead, Cumbria
southwest shore. Walkers should head www.nationaltrust.org.uk/hilltop for timings)
for Tarn Hows, 5 km (3 miles) to the was bought by the author with the
northwest, a beautiful body of water, proceeds from five of her books. SHOPPING IN AMBLESIDE
with splendid views. Set in woods, it The 17th-century farmhouse and Buy sheepskin slippers and rugs from
is skirted by a good 2.5-km (1½-mile) cottage garden with flowers, vegetables Ambleside Sheepskins (Bark Mill,
path, suitable for wheelchairs. Visit and herbs have been kept as they were Bridge Street, LA22 9DU; 015394
www.lakedistrict. at the author’s 32060; www.amblesidesheepskins.
gov.uk/visiting/ wish. Fans of her com). The shop also sells reindeer
and goatskin products.
thingstodo/walking work will recog-
or buy a map Hawkshead nize elements
from the tourist office. street sign from her stories such as the SHOPPING IN HAWKSHEAD
There are five walking long-case clock from The Tailor
routes from Grizedale Forest Park of Gloucester and the dresser from The The Hawkshead Relish Company
Visitor Centre (03000 674 495; www. Tale of Samuel Whiskers. In the village, produces homemade preserves, on
sale at the Hawkshead Relish Shop
forestry.gov.uk/grizedale) where a note the flower-filled gardens of (The Square, LA22 0NZ), and outlets
guide map can be bought. To find Buckle Yeat Guesthouse, inspiration in the area. For Beatrix Potter
it, travel south on Main Street, then for Potter’s Tale of Tom Kitten. memorabilia and figurines, try the
take the first right at the sign for ª Continue on the B5285 to Far Sawrey “official stockist”, Haddows Gifts
Grizedale Forest. Alternatively, hire and Lake Windermere and take the (The Car Park, LA22 0NT).
some mountain bikes and enjoy 15-minute ferry journey to the eastern
some safe off-roading. shore (open daily; queues in high
ª From Main St, turn left on B5285 to season). Travel down the A592 along EAT AND DRINK
Near Sawrey (small car park available). lake shore to Fell Foot Park. AMBLESIDE
The Giggling Goose inexpensive
Below Hawkshead Grammar School, founded by the Archbishop of York in 1585 This riverside terrace and upstairs tea-
room serves good coffee, homemade
soups, sandwiches and cakes. Enjoy
the alfresco seating by the mill race.
The Old Mill, LA22 9DT; 015394 33370;
www.gigglinggoose.co.uk
The Fulling Mill
inexpensive–moderate
Choice sandwiches and wraps are
offered here at lunchtime, and sharing
platters and salads in the evening.
Ryedale Road, LA22 9AN; 015394
32137; www.thefullingmill.com
AROUND HAWKSHEAD
Drunken Duck moderate
On the route to Hawkshead – turn right
off B5286 opposite Outgate Inn – this
acclaimed gastropub and inn serves
quality sandwiches and inventive food.
Barngates, LA22 0NG; 015394 36347;
www.drunkenduckinn.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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204 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN















Above left Part of the Lakeside & Haverthwaite
Railway Above right Britain’s earliest working Lake Windermere tearoom housed in an old Victorian
locomotive, Haverthwaite Station Running north to south for 18 km boathouse, which serves light lunches.
(11 miles), Windermere is the largest ª Carry on to Newby Bridge, turning
lake in England and has been an right on to A590 and left on B5278.
important waterway since Roman
times. It is fed by the Rivers Brathay r Haverthwaite
and Rothay at the northern head and
VISITING CONISTON feeds into the River Leven at Newby Cumbria; LA12 8AL
Bridge in the south. On its eastern This is where children’s book author
Tourist Information shore, sprawling Bowness-on- and spy Arthur Ransome (Swallows
Ruskin Avenue, LA21 8EH; 01539 441 Windermere is the main resort town and Amazons) ended his days, but the
533; www.golakes.co.uk with many hotels, shops, pubs and main reason to visit Haverthwaite is
attractions, as well as plenty of the nearby Lakeside & Haverthwaite
access to the lake. In high season
WHERE TO STAY the town is full to bursting with Railway (open daily, trains run daily Apr–
visitors. The glorious lakeside road Oct; 015395 31594; www.lakesiderailway.
AROUND FELL FOOT PARK south passes along thickly wooded co.uk). The station is on the A590 (on
Newby Bridge Hotel moderate banks holding covetable houses right from Newby Bridge). Once used
Grand hotel in lovely setting on the with some truly sublime views. to carry goods to the steamers on
shores of Windermere (just off the A590 Windermere, the service closed in
south of Fell Foot), with leisure centre
including pool and steam room. Daily e Fell Foot Park 1967. But thanks to enthusiasts, the
changing menu, with fresh produce Cumbria; LA12 8NN locomotives once more ply alongside
from their kitchen garden and farm. A late-Victorian park of sweeping the River Leven. See the engines or try
Newby Bridge, LA12 8NA; 015395 lawns, rhododendrons, oaks and pines the short run to Lakeside, which offers
31222; www.newbybridgehotel.co.uk
at the south end of Windermere, Fell lake cruises. Also, visit the Lakeland
Punch Bowl Inn moderate Foot Park (open daily; 015395 31273; Motor Museum (open daily) here.
After the ferry, take the A5074 www.nationaltrust.org.uk) has great ª Rejoin the A590, turn right on the
south, turning off to Crosthwaite
for nine distinctive rooms in this shoreline access and splendid views A5092, fork right on the A5084 and
18th-century country inn. Expect of the Fells. There are good picnic turn right at Lowick (signed Nibthwaite/
hearty porridge, smoked salmon areas, rowing-boat hire and a lovely east of lake) then left for Brantwood.
and blueberry pancakes along with
local bacon and eggs for breakfast.
Crosthwaite, Lyth Valley, LA8 8HR;
015395 68237; www.the-punch
bowl.co.uk
AROUND CONISTON
Old Rectory moderate
This hotel, south of Coniston on the
A593 – take first left after Little Arrow –
is in a 19th-century house set in
extensive gardens and woodland. Close
to Coniston Water, the Old Rectory
offers nine individually styled rooms and
traditional Cumbrian breakfasts cooked
to order, using local meat and eggs.
Torver, Coniston, LA21 8AX; 015394
41353; www.theoldrectoryhotel.com
Right Sheep grazing in fields with morning
mist rising off Coniston Water beyond
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


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DRIVE 19: The Poetry of the Lakes 205


Far left Brantwood, John Ruskin’s house on
the shores of Lake Coniston Left Kayaking
lesson on Coniston Water

SHOPPING IN CONISTON
Buy some delectable fudge – hand-
made from local dairy ingredients –
from the Coniston Fudge Co
(6 Yewdale Road; 01539 441 937;
www.conistonfudge.com). Flavours
include Coniston Cookie Crunch and
Ginger. Best of all, visitors can taste
before buying.
t Brantwood y Coniston
Cumbria; LA21 8AD; Cumbria; LA21 8AJ
John Ruskin (1819–1900), artist, writer, Situated at the head of Coniston Water EAT AND DRINK
poet, critic and social reformer, lived at – third-largest of the central Cumbrian
Brantwood (open daily; mid-Nov–mid-Mar: lakes – this village was once a centre CONISTON
closed Mon–Tue; 015394 41396; www. for the local copper-mining industry, Black Bull Inn moderate
This old coaching inn has played host
brantwood.org.uk) from 1871. The which boomed in the 18th and to poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, artist
house is so imbued with his 19th centuries. It is overlooked J M W Turner and the late Donald
personality that it by the 802 m Campbell, who died on Coniston in
feels as though (2,631 ft) fell, an attempt to set a new water speed
he has just the Old Man of record. On offer are sandwiches, baked
potatoes and hearty cooked meals
gone out for a Coniston, and is such as Cumberland sausage, shoulder
stroll. His own watercolours also close to Tarn Hows. The of lamb, and fish of the day. Wash it all
and drawings are hung with graceful Victorian steam down with ales such as its own
those of other prominent Railway insignia, yacht the Gondola (Apr–Oct; Bluebird. It also has a few rooms.
painters. Views across Haverthwaite Station www.nationaltrust.org.uk) – so 1 Yewdale Road, LA21 8DU; 015394
41335; www.blackbullconiston.co.uk
Coniston, especially from the called because of its high
turret, are sublime and there are prow – glides across the water from Steam Bistro moderate
wonderful gardens. The best time to Coniston Pier to Brantwood jetty. The Offering two or three set course
menus, using ingredients from
visit is in late May, when the azaleas 45-minute round trip gives passengers local suppliers, this restaurant serves
are at their showiest. Aged 81, Ruskin the chance to appreciate the beauty imaginative Japanese dumplings,
died of influenza and is buried at of the lake amid the surrounding beef and pork ragu or Cajun pulled
St Andrew’s Church, Coniston. Coniston Fells. Or hire a kayak, canoe pork. Bring your own wine.
ª Head north, turning left around the or rowing boat from Coniston Boating Esk Villa, Tilberthwaite Avenue,
LA21 8ED; 01539 441 928; www.
lake to join the B5285 to Coniston and Centre (015394 41366), also located near steambistro.co.uk; closed Mon
pay parking at Coniston Pier. the pier, to explore the lake. and Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS on B5292 and return to Carlisle up the Wander o’er Vales and Hills
Carlisle, Keswick and Ambleside are all east side of Bassenthwaite Lake. Follow the Wordsworth trail from
good bases for exploring the sublime Grasmere 8, for the church and
countryside and following in the Lakeland Stone cottage with links to the poet, then
footsteps of the Lakeland poets. Based at Keswick 7, enjoy the lake continue to Rydal Mount 9 and the
location and Castlerigg Stone Circle,
War and Peace then set off to climb the Bowder nearby lake – two of his favourite
Take a tour around Carlisle 1, a border Stone 6. Head for Honister Pass 5 places. Ambleside 0, where the
city often attacked by raiders from and Honister Slate Mine, the last poet worked – is a good place for
the north. See the citadel, castle and working slate mine in the UK. Drive lunch. Next go on to Hawkshead q,
cathedral. Then set out on the glorious where Wordsworth was schooled, to
drive southwest to Cockermouth 2, on to Buttermere 4; enjoy a picnic enjoy a walk or go fishing, before
having a look at the castle and an ice and walk around the lake admiring pushing on past Hill Top w, across
cream at the Old Stackyard Tearooms. the pikes and crags. Head north to the lake on the ferry and returning
Time permitting, head to Whinlatter Lorton and through Whinlatter Forest up Windermere’s eastern shore.
Forest Park 3 for a walk or a bike ride Park 3 to return to Keswick. Follow the drive’s instructions to Hill Top
in the quiet woodland countryside. Follow the drive’s instructions in reverse and across Lake Windermere. Turn left
Follow driving instructions to Whinlatter from Keswick to Whinlatter Forest Park. on A592 through Bowness to return to
Forest Park. Continue towards Keswick Then head east back to Keswick. Ambleside or Grasmere.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Bristol
Cardiff
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 20 Cardiff ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London London London
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
Wild
Northumbria
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Kielder Water
Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
to Lindisfarne
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Highlights ENGLAND
• Lakeside adventures
Enjoy a wealth of exciting activities
beside northern Europe’s largest
man-made expanse of water at
Kielder Water
• Castles galore
See medieval strongholds, romantic
coastal ruins, an island’s defence and
a magnificent ducal home
• Nature close up
Look out for elusive otters and shy
deer in Kielder Forest; colourful puffins
and terns off Amble, and migrating sea
birds and seals on Lindisfarne Island
• Cradle of Christianity
Cross the tidal causeway to Holy
Island (Lindisfarne), a special place of
pilgrimage with an ancient monastery
Alnwick Castle, familiar to Harry Potter fans
as the exterior of Hogwarts
206-207_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 207 30/03/2017 14:17

208 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Wild Northumbria

Sparsely populated and with a large pristine moorland
habitat, Northumberland is a county of wild beauty. The 0 kilometres 10
long and low coastline has seen more development than
the wilder, more hilly interior, but as much as a quarter 0 miles 10
of the county is protected as part of the Northumberland
National Park. This makes the area one of the best in the
country for a driving holiday – the roads are generally Haggerston LINDISFARNE
empty and the scenery simply stunning. Architecturally, Beal ISLAND
the area is also surprisingly rich. Sharing a border with Holy Island
Scotland and facing the North Sea, Northumberland was Lowick BAMBURGH
often subjected to attacks from marauding Scots and Detchant CASTLE
Belford
pillaging Vikings. As a result the coast and interior is Seahouses
studded with more castles than any other county.
Chatton Newham Beadnell
Wooler
Hepburn
Ellingham
Middleton Embleton
DUNSTANBURGH CASTLE
New Berwick Rennington Craster
Brandon Bolton Aln Howick
Beanley
C h e v i o t H i l l s Whittingham Edlingham ALNWICK Denwick Alnmouth
Netherton
Shilbottle
Coquet
ESTATE
Island
Harbottle CRAGSIDE Swarland Warkworth
Above Fishing boats at Beadnell Flotterton AMBLE
harbour, Northumberland Rothbury Longframlington Broomhill
Rochester
NOR THUMBERLAND
Monkside
513m Elishaw
Kielder Emblehope Elsdon Longhorsley
Moor Otterburn
Kielder Netherwitton
Forest Kielder
Park Reservoir
Falstone Greenhaugh Hartington
KIELDER WATER West
Stannersburn Charlton Woodburn Cambo KEY
Drive route
Northumberland Bellingham
North Tyne
National Park
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Kielder Water to Lindisfarne Island.
Number of days: 2, including a wait for the tide.
Distances: 126 km (79 miles).
Road conditions: Roads are well-maintained.
When to go: From late May to early August – but
the weather can be windy at all times of year.
Main market days: Alnwick: Market Square, Sat &
Thu (Apr–Sep); Farmers’ Market last Fri of the month.
Festivals: Alnwick: International Music Festival,
Aug; Cragside: Rothbury Traditional Music Festival,
Jul; Alnmouth Arts Festival, mid-Jun. Above On the approach road to the impressive Bamburgh Castle




208-209_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 208 13/09/18 3:59 PM

DRIVE 20: Wild Northumbria 209












LINDISFARNE
Haggerston
Beal ISLAND
Holy Island
Lowick
BAMBURGH Above left Cragside towering above its large
Detchant CASTLE 1 Kielder Water rock garden Above right The technologically
Belford magnificent firs in the pinetum.
Seahouses Northumberland; NE48 1BX Children will enjoy the play area and advanced Victorian manor house at Cragside
With 43 km (27 miles) of shoreline set exploring tunnels and pathways in
Chatton Newham Beadnell among cool pine forest and heather the rhododendron labyrinth. GETTING TO KIELDER WATER
Wooler moorland, Kielder Water is northern ª Return towards Rothbury on B6341,
Hepburn From the south, take the A1, turning left
Ellingham Europe’s largest man-made lake. Visit turn left on B6344; turn left on A697 and
Middleton Embleton the Tower Knowe Visitor Centre (closed right on B6345, then A1068 to Amble. on the A68 after Darlington, then left to
Bellingham and the road to Kielder.
DUNSTANBURGH CASTLE Nov through Mar; 01434 240 436; www.
New Berwick Rennington Craster 3 Amble WHERE TO STAY
Brandon Bolton Aln Howick visitkielder.com) to find out about the Northumberland; NE65 0DA AROUND KIELDER WATER
Beanley
activities on offer, such as walking, lake
C h e v i o t H i l l s Whittingham Edlingham ALNWICK Denwick Alnmouth cruises, fishing, mountain biking and A key centre for coal distribution in Pheasant Inn moderate
the 19th century, Amble’s fortunes
horse riding. Further west along the
On the road (1 km/half a mile) from
shoreline is the Leaplish Waterside Park declined along with the mining
Kielder Water, this peaceful farmhouse-
inn has eight rooms and a garden.
industry. Sitting at the mouth of the
(01434 251 000; www.kielderwaterside.com)
Netherton
Shilbottle
240 382; www.thepheasantinn.com
Coquet
pools, saunas, boat hire and ferry rides.
pleasant and relaxed town. Head
ESTATE
Island
Harbottle CRAGSIDE Swarland Warkworth with lodges for rent, Bird of Prey Centre, River Coquet, Amble is now a Stannersburn, Falstone, NE48 1DD; 01434
Flotterton AMBLE The forest teems with wildlife such as north along the Coquet to AROUND AMBLE
Rothbury otters, roe deer, osprey and red squirrels, Warkworth to see the castle – a
Longframlington Broomhill Roxbro House moderate
Rochester but also has the least light pollution in former stronghold of the mighty This boutique B&B in a stone house 3 km
NOR THUMBERLAND (2 miles) north of Amble, on the A1068,
Monkside the country. You can view the dark skies Percy family – with its cross-shaped
513m Elishaw has six rooms and three log cabins. It
Kielder Emblehope Elsdon Longhorsley at the Kielder Observatory (0191 265 keep, and enjoy lunch in the Mason’s serves great locally sourced breakfasts.
Moor Otterburn
Kielder Netherwitton 5510; www.kielderobservatory.org). Arms (see right) or picnic on the wide Minimum two-night stay in summer.
Forest Kielder ª Turn left out of the visitor centre, sandy beach. In summer, take a boat
Park Reservoir 5 Castle Terrace, Warkworth, NE65 0UP;
Falstone Greenhaugh Hartington following the minor roads towards from the marina to Coquet Island 01665 711 416; www.roxbrohouse.co.uk
KIELDER WATER West
Stannersburn Charlton Woodburn Cambo Greenhaugh. Turn right just before this with its 24-m (80-ft) high lighthouse,
hamlet then left on B6320 to Otterburn. and watch nesting seabirds – puffins, EAT AND DRINK
Northumberland North Tyne Bellingham Turn right on A696 and left on B6341 to eider ducks and the rare roseate tern. AROUND KIELDER WATER
National Park Rothbury and Cragside. Or walk south along the coast and
picnic in the dunes at lovely Druridge Old School Tea Room inexpensive
Attractive tearooms in this Victorian
2 Cragside Bay Country Park. building, ideal for inexpensive snacks.
Rothbury, Northumberland; NE65 7PX ª Take the A1068 north for 14.5 km Falstone, NE48 1AA; 01434 240 459
One of the great Victorian houses of (9 miles) to Alnwick. Turn right onto AROUND CRAGSIDE
the northeast and the first to be lit by Greenwell Road for the car park.
hydro-electricity in 1880, Cragside Angler’s Arms moderate
This 1760s coaching inn, around 10 km
(open Mar–Oct daily; www.nationaltrust. A Man’s House is his Castle (6 miles) east of Cragside, offers dishes
org.uk) was commis sioned by scientist such as Whitby scampi and steak pie.
and arms manufacturer Sir William Over the centuries, Northumberland Weldon Bridge, Longframlington,
has been the site of many battles and
Armstrong. It is best seen from below, border raids with the Scots, so it is no NE65 8AX; 01665 570 271; www.
anglersarms.com
looming over its woodland estate, surprise that it boasts more castles
and the largest hand-made rock than any other part of England. There AROUND AMBLE
garden in Europe. The sumptuous are also many smaller houses fortified Mason’s Arms moderate
interiors also contain a wealth of with square bastions or pele towers, Home-cooked meals at this pub in
gadgetry. There is some rough going which were virtually impregnable. In Warkworth, 3 km (2 miles) north of
Elizabethan times these oddities also
in the grounds, so wear walking harboured raiding clans known as Amble on the A1068, include lamb
curry and Northumbrian/local cheeses.
shoes and keep a lookout for the Border Reivers (see p198). 3 Dial Place, Warkworth, NE65 0UR;
glimpses of red squirrels and 01665 711 398
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50
208-209_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 209 20/07/18 7:45 PM

210 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

4 Alnwick
Northumberland; NE66 1TN
This attractive market town is a compact warren of cobbled streets, old
stone buildings and narrow alleys tucked between its main attractions,
Alnwick Castle and Garden. It is also ideally located for countryside or
coastal trips. Allow at least half a day to tour the town and its sights.
A two-hour walking tour A path from behind the Greenwell
From the car park head down Road car park leads up to Alnwick
Greenwell Road to the 15th-century Castle 5 (Apr–Oct: open daily; www.
Bondgate Tower 1 (or Hotspur Tower), alnwickcastle.com), the second-largest
originally one of four town gateways. inhabited castle in the country and
Walk up Bondgate Within, past Market seat of the Dukes of Northumberland
Place and Cross and Northumberland since 1309. Fans of the first two Harry
Hall on the left, into Narrowgate, Potter films will recognize the exterior
curving round to the right. Turn left as Hogwarts. Dominating the town,
down Bailiffgate, with its old houses, the castle dates from the 11th century
and visit the Bailiffgate Museum 2 but has seen major expansion since
(closed Mon; www.bailiffgatemuseum.co. the 14th century. Visitors can tour the
Above The Bailey at Alnwick Castle, used in uk), in the former St Mary’s Church and grand state rooms, a library, a fabulous
the Harry Potter films dedi cated to the people and places of Renaissance drawing room and an art
the area. Keen walkers can continue collection that includes works by Van
VISITING ALNWICK down Ratten Row for 1 km (half a Dyke and Canaletto.
Parking mile) to explore Hulne Park 3, a vast Walk back down the path to Alnwick
Turn right just before Bondgate archway area of estate forestry, farm and saw- Garden 6 (open daily Feb–Dec; www.
onto Greenwell Road for car park. mills. Head for 13th-century Carmelite alnwickgarden.com). In 1997 Jane Percy,
Tourist Information Hulne Friary, in the distance. Other- Duchess of Northumberland, decided
The Shambles, NE66 1TN; 01670 622 152; wise, turn left onto Northumberland to bring an overgrown garden close to
www.visitnorthumberland.com/alnwick Street and pass Pottergate Tower into the castle back to life. It is still an ongo-
Dispensary Street. Go left on Clayport ing project, created by Belgian garden
VISITING LINDISFARNE ISLAND
Street, up Market Street, and right designers Jacques and Peter Wirtz. The
Tide Information to arrive back on Bondgate Within. Grand Cascade, visible on entry, is the
Look for tables displayed on posts or call Return through the Tower, down largest water feature of its kind in the
the priory (01289 389 200) for details.
Bondgate Without. After passing UK. Between the Rose Garden, the
the War Memorial on the left, across Poison Garden and the Treehouse
WHERE TO STAY
from the Percy Tenantry Lion Column Restaurant, there is much to enjoy.
ALNWICK is the 19th-century Alnwick Station Return down the path to the car park.
Alnwick Lodge moderate building, home to Barter Books 4 ª Leave Alnwick on Bondgate
There are 15 colourful rooms plus great (open daily), a second-hand bookshop Without turning left on B1340.
breakfasts at this lodge, south of Alnwick. with a café and a model train that After Denwick, follow signs to
West Cawlidge Park, NE66 2HJ; 01665 tours the top of the shelves. Return Dunstanburgh, fork right to Craster
604 363; www.alnwicklodge.com
to the car park on Greenwell Road. to park. Walk to the castle.
Oaks Hotel moderate
There are 12 comfortable rooms in
this friendly pub-hotel on the mini 0 metres 300
roundabout on leaving Bondgate. R A T T E N R O W Bailiffgate
South Road, NE66 2PN; 01665 510 014; Museum 0 yards 300
www.theoakshotel.co.uk Hulne Park
White Swan expensive B AILIFFGATE NARRO W Alnwick
This 300-year-old coaching inn, with POTTERGATE GAT E Castle
56 bedrooms, has a handy central HOWLING LANE
location, good food and guest parking. D ISPEN S AR Y ST
Bondgate Within, NE66 1TD; 01665 602 GREENWELL RD Alnwick
Garden
109; thewhiteswan.classiclodges.co.uk MARKET BONDG
PLACE
WINDSOR GARDENS R A T T E N R O W Bailiffgatee
Bondgat
AROUND DUNSTANBURGH S T R EE T MARKET ST ATE WITHIN Museum
Tower
Old Rectory Howick moderate Hulne Park
Luxury B&B with a country-house feel G R E E N B A T T BONDGATE WITHOUT
set in its own grounds and close to a Alnwick
secluded beach. Award-winning C L AY P O R T POTTERGATE GAT E E E T Castle
B AILIFFGATE NARRO W
breakfast includes Craster kippers. HOWLING LANE P R U D H O E S T R
Craster, Alnwick, NE66 3LE; 01665 577 D ISPEN S AR Y ST Barter Books Alnwick
590; www.oldrectoryhowick.co.uk MARKET BONDG Garden
GREENWELL RD
PLACE
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150 WINDSOR GARDENS MARKET ST ATE WITHIN Bondgate
S T R EE T Tower
G R E E N B A T T BONDGATE WITHOUT
C L AY P O R T P R U D H O E S T R E E T
210-211_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 210 20/07/18 7:47 PM
Barter Books

DRIVE 20: Wild Northumbria 211














Above left Bistro restaurant Lilburns in the
5 Dunstanburgh Castle ª Take the B1342, then right on A1 and centre of Alnwick Above right The imposing
Craster, Alnwick; NE66 3TT right for Lindisfarne. Park on the island. Bamburgh Castle, the Armstrong family home
From the fishing village of Craster the
massive, brooding ruins of this grand 7 Lindisfarne Island
edifice are visible rising out of the Northumberland; TD15 2SH SHOPPING
sands atop a cliff. Wear strong, water- Also known as Holy Island, this tidal
proof shoes to walk along the beach islet is inaccessible by car at high Craster Kippers
At Craster, the Robsons produce their
and be prepared for a scramble up tide (see opposite), adding to the thrill famous oak-smoked kippers, using the
to Dunstanburgh Castle. It was begun of a visit to the cradle of English best herrings and traditional methods.
in the 14th century by the Earl of Christianity. Lindisfarne Monastery L Robson & Sons Ltd, NE66 3TR; 01665
Lancaster, and enough survives of its was founded in AD 635, and was a 576 223; www.kipper.co.uk
walls, watchtower and gatehouse to powerful centre of Christianity. EAT AND DRINK
fire the imagination and transport the Prepare to be captivated by this
visitor back some 700 years. place of pilgrimage. Tour the ruined ALNWICK
ª Return inland, turning right on the priory and clamber up to the castle Craster Seafood Restaurant moderate
B1339 and then B1340 to Bamburgh. and walled garden, walk around the Open for light lunches and à la carte
headland and harbour, and sample evening meals, this harbourside restau-
6 Bamburgh Castle the famous crab sandwiches and rant serves up both meat and fish
dishes, including their famous kippers.
Bamburgh, Northumberland; NE69 7DF Lindisfarne Mead. A nature reserve, Haven Hill, Craster, NE66 3TR; 01665
On a stunning basalt crag, Bamburgh the island is a great place to see 576 230; www.crasterseafood.co.uk;
Castle (open mid-Feb–Oct daily, Nov–mid- migrating birds and grey seals. closed Nov–Feb
Feb weekends only; www.bamburghcastle. Lilburns moderate
com) looks across the sea to the Farne Just off Bondgate, this bistro has a lovely
Islands. Originally built by the Normans, family atmosphere and serves good food.
it was all but destroyed in the 15th- 7 Paikes Street, NE66 1HX; 01665 603
century Wars of the Roses by Edward 444; www.lilburns.co.uk
IV. Restoration began in the mid-18th AROUND DUNSTANBURGH
century, and was later carried forward Dunstanburgh Castle Hotel moderate
by Sir William Armstrong (see p209) in This hotel restaurant, 3 km (2 miles)
1894. It is still the Armstrong family north of Craster on the B1339, serves
home, but visitors can tour 16 rooms homemade soups, local meat and
crab and plenty for vegetarians.
of armour, antiques and paintings, Embleton, NE66 3UN; 01665 576 111;
including the imposing King’s Hall and www.dunstanburghcastlehotel.co.uk
Cross Hall, and the torture chamber,
armoury, bake house and scullery. Left The crumbling ruins of Dunstanburgh
There is also a small museum. Castle, north of Craster village
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Castles and Coast Castles and Christianity
Kielder Water and Alnwick make ideal Staying at Alnwick 4, see the Castle Walk to see the ruins of Dunstanburgh
bases for exploring the area. and Garden, then head to Amble 3 Castle 5, then drive to the impressive
for a walk to Warkworth Castle and a Bamburgh Castle 6. Carry on to
Family Day by the Lake beach picnic. Return to Alnwick via the Lindisfarne Island 7 for a walk around
Kielder Water 1 is the perfect place for ingenious Cragside Estate 2, with its the island, castle and priory. Vary the
a day trip or to stay in a lodge, learn to grand interiors and outside adventures. order of these, depending on the tide.
fish, sail or horse ride; go cycling or
walking by the lake and then soak tired Reverse the driving instructions to get to Follow the instructions for the drive.
muscles in the spa. Amble and Cragside; return on B6341. Return via the A1.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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212-213_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 212 30/03/2017 14:17
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
WALES
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Bristol
Cardiff
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Manchester
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Inverness
Inverness
Aberdeen
ENGLAND
Aberdeen
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
ENGLAND
Glasgow
Glasgow
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Bristol
Carlisle
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
DRIVE 21 Cardiff Exeter ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle WALES SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
History and
Romance in
the Borders
Edinburgh to
Rosslyn Chapel
Highlights
• Cultural capital
Wander round Edinburgh, Scotland’s
stunning capital city, filled with history
and grand architecture, where the
medieval mingles with the modern
• Coastal pleasures
Watch the myriad seabirds and rich
marine wildlife from the rugged cliffs
on the glorious East Lothian coast and
enjoy the surprisingly sandy beaches
• Historical romance
Visit ancient crumbling abbeys
and grand historic houses in the
spectacular and wild countryside of
the Borders, the land that inspired the
novels of Sir Walter Scott
Glorious view of the Borders, seen from Scott’s
View, on the road to Abbotsford
212-213_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 213 30/03/2017 14:17

214 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

History and Romance in the Borders

The city of Edinburgh may be the jewel in Scotland’s crown, but just a short
drive south is a glorious landscape that many people have yet to discover.
This circular route takes in coastal towns and villages standing on rugged
cliffs by inviting golden sands, as seabirds screech and wheel overhead.
It then sweeps inland to the Borders, where mighty rivers like the Tweed
NORTH
NORTH
flow past bustling towns and ancient abbeys, and where grand historic BERWICK
BERWICK
houses sit in tranquil countryside. The route finally heads north to its Dirleton Auldhame
Auldhame
Dirleton
last stop at Rosslyn Chapel, famous for its extraordinary – and Gullane
Gullane
mysterious – carvings. Whitekirk
Whitekirk
Luffness
Aberladylady Luffness
Aber
Tynninghame
Dunbar
Drem Drem Tynninghame Dunbar
Athelstaneford Broxburn
Athelstaneford
Broxburn
Leith Leith Spittal Spittal
Cockenzie
Traprain
Cockenzie Traprain
Skateraw
Nor
Longniddry
EDINBURGH
EDINBURGH Prestonpans Longniddry Spott Spott Skateraw Nor th th
Prestonpans
Portobello Tyne Tyne Stenton
Portobello
Stenton
Haddington
Sea
Innerwick
Musselburgh
Musselburgh Gladsmuir Haddington Innerwick Dunglass Sea
Dunglass
Gladsmuir
Duddingston
Duddingston Tranent Halls Halls
Tranent
Macmerry
Macmerry Papple Cove Cove
Papple
EAST LOTHIAN
Morningside
Morningside Cockburnspath
Cockburnspath
Smeaton Ormiston EAST LOTHIAN
Smeaton
Ormiston
ST ABB’S
Colmton
Colmton Liberton ST ABB’S
Liberton
Gifford
Pencaitland
HEAD
Cousland Pencaitland Gifford s s Ecclaw HEAD St Abb‘s
Cousland
Ecclaw
St Abb‘s
Dalkeith EastEast Danskine l l l l
Dalkeith
Danskine
West Byges
Salt
Grantshouse
Loanhead Bonnyrigg West Byges Saltounoun i i Grantshouse Coldingham
Bonnyrigg
Loanhead
Coldingham
Houndw
Newtongrange
Newtongrange Long Long H H Houndwoodood
Pathhead
Eyemouth
r
ROSSLYN CHAPEL
Quixw
Roslin Roslin ROSSLYN CHAPEL Pathhead Yester Yester r Harchead Quixwoodood Eyemouth
Harchead
Humbie
Crichton
Rosewell Crichton Humbie u u i i Abbey St Bathans Auchencrow Reston
Reston
Rosewell
Abbey St Bathans
Penicuik Gorebridge FalaFala m m Maikle Auchencrow Ayton Ayton
Penicuik
Gorebridge
Maikle
MIDLOTHIAN e r r says Law Ellemford Marygold
MIDLOTHIAN
e
says Law
Ellemford
Marygold
534m 534m
Temple
Temple m m m m Preston Lintlew
Lintlew
Preston
Middleton
Chirnside
Howgate Middleton a a Longformacus Chirnside
Howgate
Longformacus
L L Edrom Foulden
Foulden
Edrom
MANDERSTON HOUSE
Leadburn
Leadburn MANDERSTON HOUSE Allanton Hutton
M o o r f o o t H i l l s
M o o r f o o t H i l l s Crookston Westruther Polwartharth Whitstoneone Fishwick Horncliffe
Allanton
Hutton
Gladhouse
Paxton
Reser
Reservoirvoir
Whim Whim Gladhouse Heriot Heriot Oxton Oxton Gavinton Duns Duns Blackadder Paxton
Blackadder
Gavinton
Fishwick
Whitst
Crookston
Westruther
Polw
Horncliffe
SCOTTISH BORDERS
Swinton
Blackhope
Eddleston Blackhope Gala Water SCOTTISH BORDERS Fogo Fogo Swinton
Eddleston
652m 652m
Lauder
Lauder
Norham
Houndslow
Houndslow Swintonmill Norham
Swintonmill
Stow Stow Greenlaw
Greenlaw
Gala Water
Simprim
Above North Berwick Law, the hill south of L a u d e r d a l e Gordondon Leitholm Simprim Tweed Tweed
Leitholm
Gor
Windlestraw
the Scottish Seabird Centre, see p217 Winkston Windlestraw
Winkston
659m 659m
Hume Hume
Peebles
Peebles
Coldstream
Cornhill on
Langshaw Coldstream Cornhill on
Langshaw
L a u d e r d a l e
ACTIVITIES Stichill Tweed
Stichill
Tweed
Earlston Birgham
Birgham
Earlston
Nenthorn
Learmouth
Elibank Nenthorn Learmouth
Elibank
Ednam
Galashiels
Innerleithen
Go ghost hunting in Mary King’s Close, Innerleithen Galashiels Gattonside Smailholm Ednam
Smailholm
Tweed
Tweed
Gattonside
TRAQUAIR HOUSE
the warren of alleys under Edinburgh TRAQUAIR HOUSE Caddonfoot
Caddonfoot
Melr
Traquair
Traquair ABBOTSFORD Melroseose DRYBURGH ABBEY Floors Floors KELSO
ABBOTSFORD
DRYBURGH ABBEY
KELSO
Sup a few drams of whisky in the Castle Castle
Newtown
Newtown
Scotch Whisky Experience, Edinburgh St Boswells Clintmains Roxburgh
Clintmains
Roxburgh
St Boswells
St Boswells
Foulshields
Foulshields St Boswells
Take a Seafari in a boat to see puffins and Rutherfordford
Ruther
Selkirk
guillemots, from the Scottish Seabird Centre Yarrowrow Selkirk Midlem
Yar
Midlem
Oakw
Walk along the Berwickshire Coastal Oakwoodood Lilliesleaf
Yarrow Water
Lilliesleaf
Path to the lighthouse at St Abb’s Head Yarrow Water Clerklands
Clerklands
Ettrickbridge
Ettrickbridge
Sample a Jacobite Ale in the historic
18th-century brewery at Traquair House
0 kilometres 10
Decipher the secret code in the
mysterious carvings at Rosslyn Chapel 0 miles 10
214-215_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 214 30/03/2017 14:17
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Tour Map Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro

DRIVE 21: History and Romance in the Borders 215

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Edinburgh to Rosslyn
Chapel.
Number of days: 2–3 days, with at
least half a day in Edinburgh.
Distance: Approx 362 km (225 miles).
NORTH
NORTH
BERWICK
BERWICK
Road conditions: Generally good
Auldhame
Auldhame
Dirleton
Dirleton roads and signposting; some Border
Gullane
Gullane roads can be very narrow and the
Whitekirk
Whitekirk scenic B709 to Traquair House often
Luffness
Aberladylady Luffness gets snowbound in winter.
Aber
Dunbar
Tynninghame
Drem Drem Tynninghame Dunbar Above Princes Street as seen from Calton
Athelstaneford Broxburn Hill, Edinburgh, see p216 When to go: Best for birdlife in spring
Athelstaneford
Broxburn
Leith Leith Spittal Spittal and early summer, best for colour in
Traprain
Cockenzie
Cockenzie Traprain
Skateraw
Nor
Longniddry
EDINBURGH Prestonpans Longniddry Spott Spott Skateraw Nor th th the autumn.
EDINBURGH
Prestonpans
Portobello Tyne Tyne Stenton
Portobello
Stenton
Haddington
Sea
Innerwick
Musselburgh
Musselburgh Gladsmuir Haddington Innerwick Dunglass Sea Opening times: Museums and
Dunglass
Gladsmuir
Duddingston
Duddingston Tranent Halls Halls
Tranent
Macmerry
Macmerry Papple Cove Cove attractions are generally open
Papple
Morningside Cockburnspath
EAST LOTHIAN
Morningside
Cockburnspath
Smeaton
Smeaton Ormiston EAST LOTHIAN 10am–5pm, but may close earlier
Ormiston
ST ABB’S
Colmton
Colmton Liberton ST ABB’S (or are closed altogether) Nov–Easter.
Liberton
Gifford
Pencaitland
HEAD
Cousland Pencaitland Gifford s s Ecclaw HEAD St Abb‘s
Cousland
Ecclaw
St Abb‘s
Dalkeith EastEast Danskine l l l l Shops are often open longer.
Dalkeith
Danskine
West Byges
Salt
Grantshouse
Bonnyrigg
Loanhead Bonnyrigg West Byges Saltounoun i i Grantshouse Coldingham Churches are usually open until dusk.
Loanhead
Coldingham
Houndw
Newtongrange
Newtongrange Long Long H H Houndwoodood
Pathhead
Eyemouth
ROSSLYN CHAPEL
r
Quixw
Roslin Roslin ROSSLYN CHAPEL Pathhead Yester Yester r Harchead Quixwoodood Eyemouth Main market days: Kelso: Farmers’
Market, 4th Sat of month; Traquair
Harchead
Humbie
Crichton
Rosewell Crichton Humbie u u i i Abbey St Bathans Auchencrow Reston
Reston
Rosewell
Abbey St Bathans
Penicuik
Penicuik Gorebridge FalaFala m m Maikle Auchencrow Ayton Ayton House: Peebles Farmers’ Market, 2nd
Gorebridge
Maikle
MIDLOTHIAN
MIDLOTHIAN e r r says Law Ellemford Marygold Sat of month.
e
says Law
Marygold
Ellemford
534m 534m
Temple
Temple m m m m Preston Lintlew Shopping: Shop for fine cashmere and
Lintlew
Preston
Middleton
Chirnside
Howgate Middleton a a Longformacus Chirnside
Howgate
Longformacus
L L Edrom Foulden woollens in the Borders – especially
Foulden
Edrom
MANDERSTON HOUSE
Leadburn MANDERSTON HOUSE Allanton Hutton around Selkirk and Kelso, the heart of
Leadburn
M o o r f o o t H i l l s
Allanton
M o o r f o o t H i l l s Crookston Westruther Polwartharth Whitstoneone Fishwick Horncliffe Main festivals: Edinburgh: Festival
Hutton
Gladhouse
Paxton
Reser
Reservoirvoir
Whim Whim Gladhouse Heriot Heriot Oxton Oxton Gavinton Duns Duns Blackadder Paxton Scotland’s knitwear industry.
Blackadder
Gavinton
Fishwick
Crookston
Whitst
Westruther
Polw
and Festival Fringe, mid-Aug–early
Horncliffe
SCOTTISH BORDERS
Swinton
Blackhope
Eddleston
Eddleston Blackhope Gala Water SCOTTISH BORDERS Fogo Fogo Swinton Sep; Manderston House: Duns
Summer Festival, Jul; Dryburgh
652m 652m
Lauder
Lauder
Norham
Houndslow
Houndslow Swintonmill Norham Abbey, Abbotsford & Traquair House:
Swintonmill
Stow Stow Greenlaw
Greenlaw
Gala Water
Simprim Tweed Tweed Selkirk, Melrose & Peebles: Common
Simprim
Leitholm
Gor
Windlestraw L a u d e r d a l e Gordondon Leitholm Ridings, Jun.
Windlestraw
Winkston 659m 659m
Winkston
Hume Hume
Peebles DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Peebles
Coldstream
Langshaw Coldstream Cornhill on
Cornhill on
Langshaw
L a u d e r d a l e
Stichill
Tweed
Stichill Tweed
Birgham
Earlston Birgham Familes staying in Edinburgh will enjoy
Earlston
Nenthorn
Learmouth
Elibank
Elibank Nenthorn Learmouth
Galashiels
Innerleithen Galashiels Smailholm Ednam looking around a royal palace and
Innerleithen
Ednam
Smailholm
Tweed
Tweed
Gattonside
TRAQUAIR HOUSE
TRAQUAIR HOUSE Caddonfoot Gattonside some haunted alleyways, before
Caddonfoot
Melr
Traquair
Traquair ABBOTSFORD Melroseose DRYBURGH ABBEY Floors Floors KELSO exploring the ancient bastion of
ABBOTSFORD
KELSO
DRYBURGH ABBEY
Castle Castle
Edinburgh Castle. Then drive off to
Newtown
Newtown Clintmains North Berwick to see the puffins and
Clintmains
St Boswells Roxburgh
Roxburgh
St Boswells
Foulshields St Boswells seals at the Scottish Seabird Centre
Foulshields
St Boswells
Rutherfordford
Ruther
Selkirk and go on an island boat trip, before
Selkirk
Yar
Yarrowrow Midlem relaxing on the beach. History-lovers
Midlem
Oakw
Oakwoodood should head to Kelso to see the local
Yarrow Water
Yarrow Water Clerklands Lilliesleaf KEY abbey and magnificent castle, then on
Lilliesleaf
Clerklands
Ettrickbridge to the abbey at Dryburgh and Sir
Ettrickbridge
Drive route Walter Scott’s characterful house,
Abbotsford, before enjoying the
glorious countryside on the way to a
Right Field of rapeseed on the drive from historic country house, dating back to
St Abb’s Head to Manderston House, see p217 1107. For full details, see p219.
214-215_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 215 30/03/2017 14:17

216 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Edinburgh
Lothian; EH1
With its brooding castle, dramatic crags and rich history, Edinburgh is
Scotland’s most romantic city as well as its capital. Visitors have long
been fascinated by the medieval streets of the Old Town and charmed
by the Georgian squares of the New Town, before being entertained in
the city’s many bars and restaurants. It’s no wonder that it has inspired
generations of writers, from Robert Louis Stevenson to J K Rowling.
A three-hour walking tour bustling with pubs and shops, but
Start from Waverley Station car park. once the haunt of 19th-century
Walk uphill on New Street, turn right body-snatchers Burke and Hare. They
onto Market Street, and then left at lured their victims here and sold the
a roundabout up Cockburn Street. bodies to a local surgeon. Part way
Traverse the medieval Old Town, with down the Grassmarket, turn right up
Above Princes Street, Edinburgh with the its cobbled streets, wynds (alleys) Castle Wynd South. Go up the steep
Balmoral Hotel and Scott’s Monument on the left and high buildings. At the top, turn steps, cross the road at the top and up
left and walk down the High Street – more steps to Castle Hill. Edinburgh’s
VISITING EDINBURGH
the Royal Mile. Pass John Knox House great castle 7 (open daily) is on the left.
Parking 1 (open Mon–Sat; Jul–Aug also Sun pm), Set on an extinct volcano, it dates back
There are car parks by Waverley Station, a distinctive 16th-century building said to the 12th century, but has been a
at Castle Terrace and at Greenside Place. to have been home to the religious fortress since AD 600. Its treasures
Tourist Information reformer. Next is Canongate Kirk 2 include the Honours of Scotland (the
3 Princes Street, EH2 2QP; 0131 473 (open daily): the economist Adam Smith Scottish Crown Jewels) and Mons Meg,
3666; www.edinburgh.org
and David Rizzio, the secretary to Mary one of the world’s oldest cannons.
WHERE TO STAY Queen of Scots killed by her husband, Walk down Castle Hill, stopping to
Lord Darnley, are both buried here. At sample a few “drams” at the Scotch
EDINBURGH the end of the Royal Mile is the new Whisky Experience 8 (open daily)
The Bonham moderate–expensive Scottish Parliament, opposite the on the right. At Bank Street, turn left
This chic town house in a leafy corner of Queen’s official residence in Scotland, and go down The Mound, then walk
the West End has boutique rooms. the Palace of Holyroodhouse 3 down Playfair Steps. The National
35 Drumsheugh Gardens, EH3 7RN; 0131
274 7400; www.royalorchidhotels.com (open daily, except royal visits). Gallery of Scotland 9 (open daily)
Head back up the Royal Mile, past is on the left, and good views of
NORTH BERWICK Cockburn Street to St Giles’ Cathedral the monument to Sir Walter Scott,
The Glebe House moderate 4 (open daily), which was founded in to the right. Cross Princes Street,
This lovely mansion has four charming the 12th-century. It was from here that then walk up Hanover Street, to
rooms and picturesque views. Knox led the Scottish Reformation. the grand avenues and buildings
Law Road, EH39 4PL; 01620 892 608;
www.glebehouse-nb.co.uk Nearby is Mary King’s Close 5 (open of the 18th-century Georgian New
daily), a warren of ancient, supposedly Town, built so the wealthy could
AROUND NORTH BERWICK haunted streets beneath the city. escape the squalor of the Old Town.
The Castle Inn inexpensive Beyond the cathedral, turn left onto Continue to George Street, the city’s
There are five beautiful bedrooms George IV Bridge, then right down smartest shopping area. Turn left to
at this coaching inn on the A198
to Edinburgh. charming Victoria Street, lined with Charlotte Square, designed by Robert
Manse Road, Dirleton, EH39 5EP; 01620 specialist shops. At the bottom, bear Adam, and bear right to the north
850 221; www.castleinndirleton.com right into the Grassmarket 6 – now side of the square to The Georgian
G E O R G E S T R E E T Scott
The Georgian HANOVER ST NEW TOWN
House ROSE STREET Monument CALTON R OAD
Parliament Holyrood-
Kirk
P R I N C E S S T R E E T THE MOUN D Gallery of COCKBURN ST HIGH STREET ROYAL MILE CANONGATE
CHARLOTTE WAVERLEY BRIDGE STREET Canongate CANONGATE New Scottish Palace of
Waverley
SQUARE CASTLE ST National Station NORTH BRIDGE John Knox NEW STREET Building house
FREDERICK ST
Princes Street Gardens
House
Scotland
MARKET
St Giles’
LAWNMARKET
Scotch Whisky BANK ST Mary King ‘s Close H O L Y R O O D R O A D
Experience Cathedral Q U E E N ’ S D R I V E
CASTLE HILL OLD TOWN SOUTH BRIDGE C O W G A T E
JO H N STO N TE R RACE VIC TORIA ST GEORGE IV BRIDGE Holyrood
Castle
GRASS 0 metres 500 Park
CASTLE TERRACE
MARKET Grassmarket
L O T H I A N R O A D
0 yards 500
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
216-219_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 216 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 21: History and Romance in the Borders 217


House 0 (open daily), a fine example
of an Edinburgh town house. Retrace
the route to Princes Street, turn left
back up to the station car park.
ª From station car park, turn left
onto New Street, left along Calton
Road to a T-junction, left on Leith
Street and then left onto A1. Beyond
the fringes of the city turn left onto
A198, taking coastal road to North
Berwick. Park on streets near harbour
and seabird centre.
2 North Berwick
The Harbour, North Berwick; EH39 4SS
With hi-tech cameras on its islands,
the Scottish Seabird Centre (open daily;
www.seabird.org) allows visitors to view
wildlife all year round. In summer, Above left The grand façade of Manderston
there are puffins and gannets rearing once lit by an oil lamp it’s now fully House, remodelled in 1871 Top right View
their young; in winter, grey seals and automated. Next to the visitor centre is south across the grass terrace at Manderston
their dark-eyed pups. Visitors control a little café (May–Aug: open daily). House Above right The Scottish Seabird
the cameras, and there are telescopes Continue into St Abbs to see the Centre, North Berwick
on the viewing deck. Seabird Seafaris charming harbour.
also runs trips around the islands in ª Leave on B6438, cross the A1 (right EAT AND DRINK
fast boats. Head to the town’s seafront then left), staying on B6438, and turn
for a game of crazy golf or just take it left on B6437. Then right on A6105 to EDINBURGH
easy on the sandy beach. the main gates, from where signs lead David Bann moderate
Delicious, imaginative vegetarian food
ª Continue on A198 to rejoin A1. After to the car park and entrance. such as roast aubergine chickpea cake or
Cockburnspath, turn left onto A1107 risotto with asparagus, fennel and peas.
and then left on B6438 to St Abb’s. The 4 Manderston House 56–8 Street Mary’s St, EH1 1SX; 0131
Reserve is to the left just before town. Duns, Berwickshire; TD11 3PP 556 5888; www.davidbann.com
A superb Edwardian country mansion, NORTH BERWICK
3 St Abb’s Head Manderston (May–Sep: open Thu & Sun The Grange moderate
Nr Eyemouth, Berwickshire; TD14 5QF pm; www.manderston.co.uk) was built by The seasonal menu at this popular
The St Abb’s Head National Nature Sir James Miller, a wealthy baronet, to restaurant might include steak from the
Reserve has an interactive exhibition impress society. Its most extravagant local butcher and garden herbs.
and visitor centre detailing various feature is the silver staircase. The house 35 High Street, EH39 4HH; 01620 893
344; www.grangenorthberwick.co.uk
coastal walks, which offer dramatic is now home to Lord and Lady Palmer,
clifftop views. The most interesting of Huntley and Palmers biscuits. Osteria No 1 moderate
walk goes to the remote lighthouse, ª Drive into Duns and take A6112 to Excellent Italian food at this acclaimed
restaurant, which serves a good value
built in 1862 by the Stevenson family Swinton, then take B6461 to Kelso. Park 3-course lunch. Mains might feature
(relatives of author R L Stevenson): in or around the main square. chicken breast stuffed with pancetta.
Try the creamy pannacotta for dessert.
Below View of the craggy coastline looking north from St Abb’s Head 7 High Street, EH39 4HG; 01620 890
589; www.osteria-no1.co.uk
AROUND NORTH BERWICK
Ducks at Aberlady expensive
This award-winning restaurant on the
A198 to Edinburgh has 23 rooms too.
Main Street, Aberlady, EH32 ORE;
01875 870 682; www.ducks.co.uk
ST ABBS
The Old Smiddy Cafe inexpensive
Pleasant little café in a former cottage
on the outskirts of St Abbs. Serves
soups, baguettes and cakes and has
seats outside for fine days.
By Nature Reserve Visitor Centre, TD14
5QF; 01890 71707; open daily May–
Aug; Mar & Apr weekends only
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


216-219_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 217 20/07/18 7:45 PM

218 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


The Common Ridings
The Borders were once lawless: there
were wars with England and “reivers”
(cattle thieves) plagued the area. So,
around the 13th century, people had
to patrol their land on horseback.
Over the years, this evolved into the
annual Common Ridings, where a
man carrying the local flag gallops
around the town’s boundaries,
followed by hundreds of riders. In
summer, each Border town has its
own spectacular Common Riding.
6 Dryburgh Abbey
St Boswells, Melrose; TD6 ORQ
Founded in the 11th century and built
in soft red sandstone, Dryburgh Abbey
(open daily) was frequently damaged
in the Border wars between the Scots
and the English. However, its beauty is
still evident, making for a delightful
stroll around the ruins: the refectory’s
Above Characterful Abbotsford House, once ornate rose window, for example, is still
home to Sir Walter Scott Above top right 5 Kelso intact. Two famous Scots are buried
Floors Castle, still home to the Duke of Roxburghshire; TD5 here: the historical romance writer Sir
Roxburghe Above right Surviving West Kelso is a handsome town on the River Walter Scott, and WWI commander
tower of 12th-century Kelso Abbey Tweed. Near the main square are the Field-Marshal Earl Haig. Their graves are
ruins of 12th-century Kelso Abbey, in the ruined north transept chapel.
once one of Scotland’s richest abbeys, ª Take B6356 marked Earlston up to
still with traces of beautifully carved Scott’s View, with views of the Eildon
VISITING KELSO
stonework. On the edge of town is Hills. Beyond, turn left and left again at
Parking Floors Castle (May–Oct: open daily; www. two unmarked junctions and onto
If there are no spaces on the square, floorscastle.com), a grand stately home B6360. Pass under a viaduct, through
there are several small car parks in (1721) set in vast grounds and still Gattonside and turn left on B6374. Go
the vicinity, just off the B6461 in
Bowmont Street, East Bowmont home to the Duke of Roxburghe. The right towards A7 and A68, straight over
Street and Jamieson’s Entry. sumptuous rooms boast vibrant roundabout onto A6091, then left on
tapestries and paintings by masters B6360 to Abbotsford and car park.
such as Turner, Gainsborough and
WHERE TO STAY Hogarth. Golfers may want to try the 7 Abbotsford
Roxburgh Hotel Golf Course (see left). Melrose; TD6 9BQ
AROUND KELSO
The Roxburghe Hotel expensive ª Leave on A6089 towards Edinburgh, There’s more than a touch of drama
A little way south of Kelso, just off the exit left onto B6397, then turn left on about Abbotsford (mid-Mar–Nov: open
A698, this imposing historic house B6404. Turn right on B6356 through daily; www.scottsabbotsford.co.uk), which
has real fires in winter and is set in Clintmains and then left to Dryburgh was the home of 19th-century
extensive grounds. As well as luxurious Abbey and car park. novelist Sir Walter Scott, the author
rooms and suites, the hotel also boasts
its own golf course, sporting estate
and a fine, candlelit restaurant.
Heiton, TD5 8JZ; 01573 450 331;
www.roxburghe-hotel.net
AROUND ABBOTSFORD
Glen Hotel moderate
This handsome Victorian mansion
overlooking the River Ettrick has nine
rooms, plus a bar and restaurant. Local
outdoor activities include fishing.
Yarrow Terrace, Selkirk, TD7 5AS; 01750
20259; www.glenhotel.co.uk
Below The pretty gardens at 15th-century
Rosslyn Chapel, Roslin
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


216-219_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 218 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 21: History and Romance in the Borders 219


Far left The historic Traquair House, dating
back to the 12th century Left Intricate
stonework exterior of Rosslyn Chapel, Roslin

SHOPPING
Look for wool, cashmere and tartans
in the Borders, especially from places
that offer mill tours. Try Lochcarron
Scottish Cashmere and Wool Centre
(Waverley Mill, Dunsdale Road, Selkirk,
TD7 5DZ; 01750 726 100; www.
lochcarron.co.uk). Hawick is a traditional
textile-making town: to get there, take
of classic tales such as Ivanhoe. He and today make a Jacobite Ale, the A698 from Kelso or A7 from Selkirk.
commissioned the house himself and based on an 18th-century recipe, in A key attraction is the Borders Textile
it’s full of character, with suits of armour their historic brewery. Towerhouse (Tower Knowe, Hawick,
TD9 9EN; 01450 377 615).
in the oak-panelled hall, his battered ª From Traquair, go left on B709
leather writing chair in the study and towards Innerleithen, then take A72 EAT AND DRINK
thousands of books crammed onto towards Peebles. On the outskirts of
the shelves of his well-used library. the town pick up A703 going north; KELSO
The windows of the house overlook at Leadburn turn right on A6094 to The Cobbles Inn moderate
the Tweed, the river he loved. A visitor Rosewell, then descend steeply left on This popular restaurant serves modern
centre explores Scott’s life. B7003. Turn right on B7006 and right British dishes. The menu might feature
ª From car park go left on B6360, then again to Rosslyn Chapel. local pork with mustard mash, or
A7 into Selkirk. Here take A707, then Cheviot hills lamb with potatoes and
pea purée. Leave room for sticky date
A708 through dramatic scenery, turning 9 Rosslyn Chapel pudding with toffee sauce for dessert.
right onto B709. This is the remote Chapel Loan, Roslin; EH25 9PU 7 Bowmont Street, TD5 7JH; 01573 223
Borders: there’s not a settlement to be Stepping inside Rosslyn Chapel (open 548; www.thecobbleskelso.co.uk
seen. Follow signs for Traquair House. daily; www.rosslynchapel.com), it is hard Oscar’s moderate
to decide where to look first, there Lively wine bar and restaurant, with
8 Traquair House are so many extraordinary – and polished wooden floors, serving modern
Innerleithen, Peeblesshire; EH44 6PW mysterious – carvings. An angel plays Mediterranean dishes. Mains include
Scotland’s oldest inhabited house, the bagpipes; pagan “Green Men” asparagus and thyme risotto, or home-
made fishcakes, and daily specials such
Traquair (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov: open peer down from pillars; there is even as sea bass on tomato and basil risotto.
Sat & Sun; www.traquair.co.uk) dates maize, carved here years before the 35–37 Horsemarket, TD5 7HE; 01573
back to at least 1107. It is home to the New World was “discovered”. The 224 008; www.oscars-kelso.com
Maxwell-Stuart family and is steeped chapel, built for the St Clair family in AROUND ABBOTSFORD
in history. The house boasts relics such 1450, is perhaps best known for the The Waterwheel inexpensive
as Mary Queen of Scots’ son’s cradle, as lavishly carved Apprentice Pillar, On the A708 road just beyond Selkirk
well as a concealed room with secret thought by some to conceal the Holy on the drive to Traquair House, this
stairs – a means of escape for priests, Grail, brought here by the Knights attractive Scots pine cabin has an
when Catholics were persecuted in Templar – a theory popularized in the outside deck and lovely countryside
views. It offers good value hot meals,
the 16th to 18th centuries. The family book and film The Da Vinci Code. as well as soups and sandwiches.
were loyal supporters of James II ª Drive north on B7006, then turn Philiphaugh Old Mill, Selkirk, TD7 5LU;
and VI and the Stuart monarchs, right onto A701 to central Edinburgh. 01750 22258
DAY TRIP OPTIONS and heading to North Berwick 2 for before heading to his former home,
the Scottish Seabird Centre and a Seafari Abbotsford 7. Tour Scott’s home,
Edinburgh and Kelso would make
good bases for families and history- to see the birds up close. Finish the day evocative of his dashing fictional
lovers to explore the area. relaxing on the beach. tales, with suits of armour and
Follow the A1, then the A198. Retrace memorabilia, before visiting Traquair
Ghosts and Coasts the route to return. House 8, steeped in history and
Staying in Edinburgh 1, walk around drama. Drive back through the wild
the city, visit the Palace of Holyrood- Border Romance and beautiful Scottish Border
house and listen to tales of how From Kelso 5, see Kelso Abbey and countryside.
people lived cheek-by-jowl in Mary Floors Castle. Next, head for the Follow the drive instructions to get to
King’s Close and the Grassmarket, romantic ruins of Dryburgh Abbey all the stops, but return via the A72 and
before stocking up on picnic supplies 6, burial place of Sir Walter Scott, A699, if pressed for time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


216-219_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 219 20/07/18 7:45 PM

220-221_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 220 30/03/2017 14:17
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
WALES
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Cardiff
Cardiff
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Manchester
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Inverness
Inverness
Aberdeen
ENGLAND
Aberdeen
ENGLAND
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
ENGLAND
Glasgow
Glasgow
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Bristol
Carlisle
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
DRIVE 22 Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES Leeds Manchester London Plymouth Liverpool SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle WALES SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
The Kingdom
of Fife
St Andrews
to Culross
Highlights
• The home of golf
Explore the ancient university town
of St Andrews, with its tightly packed
medieval street plan, cathedral and
castle, and the oldest golf course in
the world
• Pleasures of the East Neuk coast
Stride out along the coastal walking
path, take to the seas to watch the
abundant wildlife, or stroll around a
pretty fishing village
• Royal retreats
Tour fabulous Renaissance Falkland
Palace, built for James IV of Scotland,
and the romantic ruins of the castle in
beautiful Loch Leven where Mary
Queen of Scots was imprisoned
Fishing paraphernalia at pretty Pittenweem in the
East Neuk of Fife, along the coast from Anstruther
220-221_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 221 30/03/2017 14:17

222 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Kingdom of Fife

Squeezed between the Firth of Tay and the Firth of Forth, Fife was for
Leuchars
centuries isolated from the rest of Scotland and still retains its distinctive Balmullo Leuchars
Balmullo
character. The region was once the seat of Scottish kings and this tour St Andrews
St Andrews
Guard Bridge
includes some of its most fascinating sights. From St Andrews, with its Guard Bridge Bay
Bay
Kincaple
Picullo
Moonzie
hallowed golf courses, ancient university – and bracing North Sea Moonzie Picullo Eden Eden Kincaple Strathkinness
ST ANDREWS
Lindores
winds – the route leads to a former military bunker, hidden Lindores Strathkinness ST ANDREWS
Kemback
deep underground. This subterranean secret is followed Letham Kemback Blebocraigs Boarhills
Blebocraigs
Letham
Boarhills
Cupar
Bow of
by a succession of picturesque fishing villages that Collessie Bow of Cupar Piscottie Denhead
Denhead
Collessie
Piscottie
Fife
Fife
line the Fife coast. The route then winds inland Auchtermuchty Springfield Scotstarvit FIFE FOLK Kingsbarns
Scotstarvit
Kingsbarns
Auchtermuchty
FIFE FOLK
Springfield
Tower
Ceres
past fertile fields, castles and palaces, Strathmiglo Dunshalt Tower Ceres MUSEUM Dunino SCOTLAND’S
Dunshalt
MUSEUM
Strathmiglo
SCOTLAND’S
Dunino
Craigrothie
Peat Inn
Ladybank
SECRET BUNKER
Glenfarg
before returning to the coast in Glenfarg Gateside Ladybank Pitlessie Craigrothie Backmuir of Peat Inn SECRET BUNKER Fife Fife
Gateside
Ness
Ness
Backmuir of
Pitlessie
the immaculately preserved PE R TH AND Kingskettle New Gilston Largoward
Kingskettle
New Gilston
PE R TH AND
Largoward
FALKLAND PALACE
mercantile town of Culross. FALKLAND PALACE Kettlebridge Carnbee Crail Crail
Kettlebridge
Carnbee
KINR O SS
KINR O SS Lomond Hills Freuchie KELLIE CASTLE
KELLIE CASTLE
Freuchie
Lomond Hills
Muirhead
Muirhead
Upper
Arncroach
Dalqueich
Dalqueich Upper Arncroach Kilrenny
Kilrenny
FIFE
Largo
Milnathort
Milnathort FIFE Largo Colinsburgh
Colinsburgh
Cellardyke
Canbo
Kinesswood
Canbo Kinesswood Kennoway Pittenweem Cellardyke
Kennoway
Pittenweem
Loch Leven
Lower
ANSTRUTHER
Loch Leven Leslie Lower ANSTRUTHER
Leslie
Markinch
Kinross
Castle
Kinross Castle Markinch Largo Kilconquhar
Largo Kilconquhar
Pool of
St Monance
Pool of Windygates St Monance
LOCH LEVEN
Windygates
Leven
Muckart LOCH LEVEN Leven
Muckart
Leven
Glenrothes
Drum
Drum Coldrain Leven Glenrothes Earlsferry Elie Elie Isle of
Coldrain
Isle of
Earlsferry
Lar g o
Coaltown
Devon Devon Kinglassie Coaltown Methil Lar g o May May
Methil
Kinglassie
B ay
B ay
of Balgonie
of Balgonie
Ballingry
Cleish
Cleish Ballingry Thornton
Thornton
East
East
Devonside
Lochore
Devonside Lochore Wemyss
Blairingone
Blairingone Loch Loch Auchterderran Wemyss
Auchterderran
Ore
Ore
Loch Loch Glencraig West West
Glencraig
Sauchie
Sauchie Glow Kelty Kelty
Glow
Wemyss
Mill Mill Chapel Wemyss
Gallatown
Lochgelly
Lochgelly Chapel Gallatown
Saline
Saline Dysart
Dysart
Alloa h h
Alloa
Loch Fitty
Loch Fitty Cowdenbeath Kirkcaldy t t
Cowdenbeath
Kirkcaldy
Kingseat
Kingseat Auchtertool r r
Auchtertool
Kennet
Kennet o o
Wellwood
Comrie Wellwood Denibristle F F
Comrie
Airth Airth Dunfermline Denibristle
Dunfermline
Kincardine Fordell Kinghorn
Kincardine
Fordell
Kinghorn
New Mills
New Mills o f f
Burntisland
Torryburn
Torryburn Mastertown Burntisland o
Mastertown
Aberdour
CULROSS Aberdour h h
CULROSS
Charlestown i r r t t
Charlestown
Rosyth
Rosyth F i
Inverkeithing
Bo‘ness Inverkeithing F
Bo‘ness
Bridgeness North Queensferry
Bridgeness
North Queensferry
FORTH ROAD
FORTH ROAD
BRIDGE
BRIDGE
South
South
Queensferry Below Lower Largo, home of Alexander
Queensferry
Selkirk, the real Robinson Crusoe, see p226
ACTIVITIES
Play a round of golf on the famous Old Course in St Andrews
Walk the invigorating Fife Coast Path from Anstruther
Go canoeing, abseiling, or mountain biking in the East Neuk of Fife
Take a boat trip to see the wildlife on the Isle of May
Go birdwatching to spot the lapwings and pink-footed geese at
Loch Leven
Take a ferry to the island on Loch Leven to see Mary Queen of
Scots’ prison
Walk up the hill to the abbey overlooking Culross
222-223_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 222 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 22: The Kingdom of Fife 223


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: St Andrews to Culross.
Leuchars
Leuchars
Balmullo Number of Days: 1–2 days, possibly 3, if
Balmullo
St Andrews spending more than a day at
St Andrews
Guard Bridge
Guard Bridge St Andrews.
Bay
Bay
Picullo
Kincaple
Moonzie
Moonzie Picullo Eden Kincaple
Strathkinness
ST ANDREWS
Lindores Eden Strathkinness ST ANDREWS Distances: Approx. 148 km (92 miles).
Lindores
Kemback Blebocraigs Road conditions: Generally good,
Kemback
Letham Blebocraigs Boarhills
Letham
Bow of
Cupar
Bow of Cupar Boarhills though the roads can be busy –
Denhead
Collessie
Piscottie
Collessie Fife Fife Piscottie Denhead signposting is reasonable.
Scotstarvit
Kingsbarns
Auchtermuchty
Auchtermuchty Springfield Scotstarvit FIFE FOLK Kingsbarns When to go: Late spring and early
FIFE FOLK
Springfield
Tower
Tower
Ceres
MUSEUM
Dunshalt
Strathmiglo
SCOTLAND’S
Strathmiglo Dunshalt Ceres MUSEUM Dunino SCOTLAND’S autumn are good times to visit, though
Dunino
Craigrothie
Peat Inn
SECRET BUNKER
Ladybank
Glenfarg
Glenfarg Gateside Ladybank Craigrothie Peat Inn SECRET BUNKER Fife Fife
Gateside
Ness
Ness
Backmuir of
Pitlessie Backmuir of golfers might prefer the long summer
Pitlessie
Kingskettle
New Gilston
Kingskettle New Gilston days for endless hours on the links.
PE R TH AND
PE R TH AND FALKLAND PALACE Kettlebridge Largoward Crail Crail
Largoward
FALKLAND PALACE
Kettlebridge
Carnbee
KINR O SS
KINR O SS Lomond Hills Freuchie KELLIE CASTLE Carnbee Opening times: Museums and
KELLIE CASTLE
Freuchie
Lomond Hills
Muirhead attractions are generally open
Muirhead
Upper
Arncroach
Dalqueich
Dalqueich Upper Arncroach Kilrenny
Kilrenny
FIFE
Largo
Milnathort FIFE Largo Colinsburgh 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Milnathort
Colinsburgh
Cellardyke
Canbo
Kinesswood
Canbo Kinesswood Kennoway Pittenweem Cellardyke closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shop
Kennoway
Pittenweem
Loch Leven
Loch Leven Leslie Lower ANSTRUTHER
Lower
ANSTRUTHER
Leslie
Markinch
Kinross
Kinross Castle Castle Markinch Largo Kilconquhar times are longer. Churches are usually
Largo Kilconquhar
Pool of
St Monance
Pool of Windygates St Monance
Windygates
LOCH LEVEN
Leven
Muckart LOCH LEVEN Leven open until dusk.
Muckart
Leven
Glenrothes
Drum
Drum Coldrain Leven Glenrothes Earlsferry Elie Elie Isle of
Coldrain
Isle of
Earlsferry
Lar g o
Coaltown
Devon Devon Kinglassie Coaltown Methil Lar g o May May Main market days: St Andrews:Farmers’
Methil
Kinglassie
B ay
B ay
of Balgonie
of Balgonie
Ballingry
Cleish
Cleish Ballingry Thornton Market, 1st Sat of month.
Thornton
East
East
Lochore
Devonside
Devonside Lochore Wemyss
Blairingone
Blairingone Loch Loch Auchterderran Wemyss Shopping: Pick up hand-thrown items
Auchterderran
Ore
Ore
Glencraig
Loch Loch Glencraig West West
Sauchie Glow Kelty Kelty from Crail Pottery; local art from the
Sauchie
Glow
Wemyss
Mill Mill Chapel Wemyss
Gallatown
Lochgelly
Lochgelly Chapel Gallatown KEY Fisher Studio in Pittenweem; and golf
Saline
Saline Dysart clubs and apparel from Auchterlonie’s
Dysart
Alloa
Alloa h h Drive route
Loch Fitty
Cowdenbeath
Loch Fitty Cowdenbeath Kirkcaldy t t in St Andrews.
Kirkcaldy
Kingseat
Kingseat Auchtertool r r
Auchtertool
Kennet
Kennet o o Major festivals: St Andrews: Golf Week,
Wellwood
Comrie
Comrie Wellwood Denibristle F F Apr; Anstruther: East Neuk Festival (arts),
Dunfermline
Airth Airth Dunfermline Denibristle
Kincardine Fordell Kinghorn Jun–Jul; Pittenweem Arts Festival, late
Kincardine
Fordell
Kinghorn
New Mills
New Mills o f f 0 kilometres 5 Jul/early Aug; Ceres: Highland Games
Burntisland
Torryburn
Torryburn Mastertown Burntisland o 0 miles 5 (last Sat of Jun); Crail: Food Festival (mid-
Mastertown
CULROSS
Aberdour
CULROSS Aberdour h h Jun); Culross: Culross Festival (arts), Jun.
Charlestown i r r t t
Charlestown
Rosyth
Rosyth F i
Inverkeithing
Bo‘ness
Bo‘ness Inverkeithing F Below Skiff boats anchored at the Anstruther Harbour
Bridgeness North Queensferry
Bridgeness
North Queensferry
FORTH ROAD
FORTH ROAD DAY TRIP OPTIONS
BRIDGE
BRIDGE
South
South
Queensferry St Andrews makes a great base for
Queensferry
exploring Fife and there is plenty to
guarantee happy families. In St Andrews,
see the home of golf at the Old Course,
visit the ancient university and the
cathedral, and take a stroll on the
beach; then head off to Ceres for the
folk museum and finish off at Falkland
for a royal palace. Alternatively, visit
St Andrews castle, with its dungeon,
and then head to Scotland’s secret
underground bunker. Continue to
Anstruther for canoeing, abseiling,
cycling, walking or watching the
wildlife on a boat trip. Finally, do some
ghost hunting on a tour of a spooky
castle. For full details, see p227.
222-223_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 223 20/07/18 7:45 PM

224 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


1 St Andrews The Ancient Game of Golf
Fife; KY16 Scotland’s national game was
The Old Course, the oldest golf course pioneered on the sandy links
in the world, attracts thousands of around St Andrews. The earliest
record dates from 1457, when
visitors to St Andrews each year. Yet golf was banned by James II on
it was religion that first made the city the grounds that it was interfering
famous. Legend tells that, in the 4th with his subjects’ archery practice.
century, St Rule brought the relics of Mary, Queen of Scots enjoyed the
St Andrew from Constantinople to game and was berated in 1568 for
Scotland and kept them in a chapel playing straight after the murder
of her husband Darnley. Today,
here, founding the city. They were St Andrews Links attracts thousands
moved to St Andrews Cathedral of players every year.
(open daily), after it was built in 1160.
Nearby St Andrews Castle (joint ticket
with cathedral) was the residence of 2 Scotland’s Secret Bunker
senior clergy. Both buildings are now Crown Buildings, Troywood; KY16 8QH
ruined but they still make an imposing Enter the secret world of surveillance
Above Victorian bandstand in the seafront pair. Visitors can peer into the castle’s in this former military bunker, hidden
park at St Andrews dungeon, into which prisoners were far beneath an isolated farmhouse.
dropped with no hope of release. Scotland’s Secret Bunker (Mar–Oct:
VISITING ST ANDREWS The university, founded in 1410, is open daily; www.secretbunker.co.uk),
the oldest in Scotland and brims with encased in thick concrete, was to
Parking artifacts. It is possible to visit two of the have been the HQ of operations, had
There is parking by the harbour.
college quads – St Salvator’s in North the UK come under nuclear attack
Tourist Information Street and St Mary’s in South Street. during the Cold War. In the vast
70 Market St, KY16 9NU; 01334 472 021
The latter has a thorn tree, supposedly labyrinth, visitors can see the basic
Playing golf planted by Mary Queen of Scots. dormitories, communications
There are seven links (seaside) golf ª From harbour car park drive uphill equipment and the little chapel.
courses. A daily ballot decides who
plays on the Old Course. For all courses, to North Street (A917) and turn left. ª Return to the B940 and turn right,
contact St Andrews Links (01334 466 Turn right onto B9131, then left onto then right again to take A917. Drive
718; www.standrews.com). B940 following signs for Scotland’s along coast road to Anstruther. Park
Secret Bunker. There is parking on site. by harbour.
WHERE TO STAY
Below Anstruther Harbour, once busy with the Scottish herring fleet Below top right The Isle of May,
ST ANDREWS seen from the cliffs at Anstruther Below right Anstruther beach, sheltered by the harbour walls
Doune House moderate
Close to the Old Course and the centre,
this Victorian townhouse B&B has
modern rooms with tartan touches.
5 Murray Place, KY16 9AP; 01334 475
195; www.dounehouse.com
The Macdonald Rusacks Hotel
expensive
The Rusacks is set beside the Old
Course and West Sands, the beach
featured in the film Chariots of Fire.
Pilmour Links, KY16 9JQ; 0844 879 9136;
www.macdonaldhotels.co.uk/rusacks
ANSTRUTHER
Murray Library Hostel inexpensive
Stylish, central hostel with superb views
from its private rooms. Pleasant com­
mon rooms and shared bathrooms.
Shore Street, KY10 3EA; 01333 311
123; www.murraylibraryhostel.com
The Waterfront moderate
Smart little guest­house with an
excellent harbourside location; simple,
modern guest rooms; and a restaurant
that serves local seafood. A good
choice for families.
18–20 Shore Street, KY10 3EA; 01333 312
200; www.anstruther-waterfront.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


224-227_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 224 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 22: The Kingdom of Fife 225

3 Anstruther ANSTRUTHER ACTIVITIES
Fife; KY10 For canoeing, abseiling, climbing,
A charming fishing village typical of the East Neuk (corner) of Fife, cycling and archery, try East Neuk
Anstruther was once one of the busiest ports in Scotland. The harbour Outdoors (01333 310 370; www.
eastneukoutdoors.co.uk). For boat
now mainly holds yachts, but the town still has plenty of character with trips to the Isle of May buy tickets
its pubs, award-winning fish and chip shop, and charming buildings. from Anstruther Pleasure Trips from
Visitors can also walk the Fife Coastal Path, enjoy a multitude of outdoor the harbour (Apr–Sep; 07957 585 200;
www.isleofmayferry.com).
activities, or take a boat to the Isle of May to see the wildlife.
EAT AND DRINK
A two-hour walking tour the sea. To the left are fields where, in ST ANDREWS
From the car park, bear left (if facing summer, the long grasses and wild The Doll’s House moderate
the harbour) and walk past the RNLI flowers come alive with clouds of Popular restaurant serving Scottish-
lifeboat station to visit the Scottish bees, butterflies and other insects. French dishes such as Scottish lamb with
Fisheries Museum 1 (open daily; Eventually, climb a few steps over a puy lentils, and sticky toffee pudding.
www.scotfishmuseum.org) telling the low wall, and go straight ahead – look 3 Church Square, KY16 9NN; 01334 477
422; www.dollshousestandrews.co.uk
history of the local fishing industry. out for the cormorants that often
Walk along James Street by the shore. perch on rocks by the shore. Cross a Jahangir Balti moderate
When the 16th-century Tolbooth and tiny bridge above a brook and carry Modest city-centre curry house with
fine dishes and well-priced lunches.
council chamber is visible, carry on on beside the sea. Climb a few more 116a South Street, KY16 9QD 01334 470
along John Street and then George steps over a wall, and follow the shore 300; www.jahangirstandrews.co.uk
Street, keeping the sea to the right. to a large outcrop of rocks 3 – the ANSTRUTHER
Look for clues that the houses were layers of sediment deposited over Anstruther Fish Bar inexpensive
for fishermen: some upper windows the centuries can be seen in the This legendary fish and chip shop
have posts used for drying fishing nets. exposed stone. Around a corner, consistently wins awards for its food.
Other properties have external stair- the path enters a grassy area with 42–4 Shore Street, KY10 3AQ; 01333
cases (good for drying nets and creels) lots of gorse growing on the left. 310 518; www.anstrutherfishbar.co.uk
and Dutch-style gables on the roofs Cross another bridge over a brook to The Cellar expensive
(Holland was a historic trading partner). see the village of Crail in the distance. This restaurant serves modern Scottish
Walk past Cellardyke Harbour 2, If the tide is out, the pretty shell beach dishes, with an emphasis on seafood.
24 East Green, KY10 3AA; 01333 310
after which there is a caravan park on 4 here is a good place for a breather, 378; closed Sun; lunch served Fri & Sat;
the left-hand side. Out to sea lies the with large rocks as convenient seats. www.thecellaranstruther.co.uk
Isle of May, on which stands a ruined For those with stamina, the path
12th-century monastery and the goes on to Crail, otherwise 0 kilometres 1
oldest lighthouse in Scotland (1635). retrace the walk back to the car 0 miles 1
A National Nature Reserve, the island park for some well-earned fish
is home to seals and colonies of and chips by the harbour. CRAIL
puffins, guillemots and razorbills. ª Drive back to A917 and follow
Soon after Cellardyke, the path turns to Pittenweem. Then turn right
into a grassy track and passes a pig into Charles Street; follow the
farm on the left. Go through a gate road taking the right fork and
next to a seat, then another gate. then turn left onto B9171. Turn Shell
Look out for fishing boats bobbing on right for castle and car park. Beach
Outcrop of
Below Beautiful scenery on the Anstruther to Crail coastal path Rocks







KILRENNY


Cellardyke
Harbour
Scottish Fisheries
Museum
ANSTRUTHER
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


224-227_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 225 20/07/18 7:47 PM

226 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


5 Fife Folk Museum
Fife; KY15 5NF
The attractive village of Ceres is home
to the Fife Folk Museum (Apr–Oct: open
daily; www.fifefolkmuseum.org), which
sheds light on the history of the
working people of Fife. Housed in a
17th-century building, the museum
contains a vivid array of items, from
agricultural implements to patchwork
quilts and a Victorian “bone-shaker”
bicycle. A cottage living room has been
reconstructed to recreate the feel of a
home in the pre-industrial age.
ª Return on B939 to A916. Turn right,
then after Scotstarvit Tower, fork left
down a minor road. At A914, turn
left (signed Glenrothes), then right on a
minor road beyond Kettlebridge, cross­
ing A92 onto B936 through Freuchie
and on to Falkland. Turn right briefly
onto A912, then left into East Port to
Above Victorian-style gardens surround the High Street, palace and town car park.
ancient home of Kellie Castle, rumoured to be 4 Kellie Castle
haunted Above top right Imposing walls Pittenweem; KY10 2RF The Real Robinson Crusoe
and turrets of Kellie Castle Above right Kellie Castle (Apr, May, Sep & Oct: open Alexander Selkirk, born in Lower
Falkland Palace, once a royal hunting lodge Thu–Mon; Jun–Aug: open daily) dates as Largo in the 17th century, was the
far back as the 14th century and is said inspiration for Daniel Defoe’s novel
to be haunted. It was largely rebuilt by Robinson Crusoe. Selkirk went to sea
as a youth and in 1704 was serving as
the Lorimer family in the 19th century, a sailing master on the vessel Cinque
after it had almost fallen into ruin. The Ports. He quarrelled with the captain
rooms contain fine paintings, grand and asked to leave the ship. His wish
plaster ceilings and furniture designed was granted, and he was put ashore
by Arts and Crafts architect Sir Robert on Juan Fernandez, an uninhabited
Lorimer. There are superb views of the island off Chile. He lived there for over
Bass Rock and a Victorian-style garden, four years until being rescued in 1709.
with roses and herbaceous plants.
ª Turn right onto B9171, then left at 6 Falkland Palace
B942 to A917. Turn right and at Upper Falkland; KY15 7BU
Largo, go straight onto A915 (or detour The magnificent Renaissance Falkland
to Lower Largo – see box), then turn Palace (Mar–Oct: open daily) dominates
right onto B927 to travel away from the the village. Built as a royal hunting
coast. Turn right on A916 north, then lodge for James IV of Scotland in the
WHERE TO STAY
right onto B939 into Ceres. The museum 15th century, it became the Stuart
AROUND FALKLAND PALACE is on High Street, on the right. monarchs’ favourite retreat – Mary
Lomond Hills Hotel moderate
Traditional whitewashed 18th-century
inn in the village of Freuchie, 3 km
(2 miles) east of Falkland Palace.
Offers simple, uncluttered rooms
and modern facilities that include
an indoor pool and spa. The old-
fashioned bar sports a selection of
some 50 whiskeys. Rates include
a delicious cooked Scottish breakfast.
High Street, Freuchie, Cupar KY15
7EY; 01337 857 329; www.
lomondhillshotel.com
Right RSPB Vane Farm, set on the beautiful
shores of Loch Leven
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


224-227_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 226 13/09/18 3:59 PM

DRIVE 22: The Kingdom of Fife 227


Queen of Scots was also very fond of it.
As well as touring the palace itself, with
its Flemish tapestries and painted
ceilings, visitors can visit the gardens
and the Real Tennis court, built in 1539.
ª Return to A912, turn left to A91.
Turn left again, then merge onto B996
to Milnathort. Turn left onto A922,
then straight onto B996 into centre
of Kinross. Turn left onto Burns Beggs
Street, then right onto Pier Road to the
car park for a ferry to Loch Leven Castle.





Above The 17th-century townhouse, an
ª From Loch Leven Pier, return to B996 example of Dutch-style architecture in Culross
and turn right, then left onto Station
Road. Continue on to the A977 and
follow it all the way to Kincardine, then EAT AND DRINK
head left to join A985 (towards Forth AROUND KELLIE CASTLE
Above Falkland Palace gardens, home to Britain’s Road Bridge). After 6 km (4 miles) turn The Inn at Lathones expensive
oldest tennis court right down Gallows Loan to Culross. This former coaching inn’s restaurant
Park in the town centre near the palace. serves traditional dishes such as game
7 Loch Leven suet pudding. Take B942, then B941 to
Largoward, then right on A915.
By Kinross; KY13 8UF 8 Culross Largoward, KY9 1JE; 01334 840 494;
Loch Leven is famed for the lonely Culross; KY12 8JH www.innatlathones.com
castle (Apr–Oct: open daily), perched on Culross (pronounced “koo-ross”) was
an island in its waters, only accessible one of Scotland’s largest ports in the AROUND FIFE FOLK MUSEUM
by ferry. Mary Queen of Scots was 16th century: ships took coal and salt The Peat Inn expensive
Michelin-starred food at this country
imprisoned here on the order of from Fife to the Low Countries and inn, with imaginative dishes such as
Elizabeth I. While here, Mary was returned with red pantiles, which were cannelloni of langoustines and scallops.
forced to abdicate in favour of her used as roofing. This once prosperous From Ceres, head north on B939, then
son, James VI. She escaped after a year town, with its Dutch-influenced right on B940 to Peat Inn.
with the help of her jailer, but was architecture and cobbled streets, is Peat Inn, KY15 5LH; 01334 840 206;
www.thepeatinn.co.uk; closed Sun &
locked up again at Fotheringay in almost perfectly preserved. Main sights Mon evening
England. The 14th-century castle is include Culross Palace (Apr, May & Sep:
now a ruin, but full of atmosphere. open Thu–Mon; Jun–Aug: open daily; Oct: AROUND FALKLAND PALACE
The loch is also noted for its rich bird open Fri–Mon), which was built for a Pillars of Hercules Organic Farm
life. Head south on B996, then left on local merchant; and The Study (joint inexpensive
Splendid fresh food, from the adjacent
B9097 to the Royal Society for the adm with palace) a 17th-century tower organic farm, served in this simple café,
Protection of Birds Vane Farm (open house. It is also worth walking up to west of Falkland Palace via the A912.
daily), with nature trails and viewing the ruined abbey, founded by the A great stop for breakfast and lunch.
points – from here look for regular Cistercians in the 13th century, which Falkland, KY15 7AD; 01337 857 749;
visitors such as pink-footed geese. can be found on the hills above town. www.pillars.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS into the lives of the locals. Drive on Secret Bunker 2, with lots for kids
St Andrews is an excellent base from to the Stuart monarchs’ wonderful to enjoy. Next, visit Anstruther 3
which to explore Fife. Renaissance Falkland Palace 6. for canoeing, cycling, a boat trip or
just relaxing on the beach. If more
Royal and Ordinary Fife From St Andrews take A915, then B939 excitement is needed, carry on to go
Spend the morning in St Andrews to Ceres. Follow drive instructions to ghost hunting at Kellie Castle 4.
1, with its famous royal golf course, Falkland. Retrace journey to return.
university and ancient cathedral. Follow the drive instructions as far as
Stroll along the golden beach, then Family Fun in the East Neuk Kellie Castle. To return, head back to
drive to pretty Ceres to visit the Fife In St Andrews 1, visit the castle B9171, turn left and carry on to B9131.
Folk Museum 5 and gain an insight dungeon and then drive to Scotland’s Then turn left here to St Andrews.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


224-227_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 227 20/07/18 7:47 PM

228-229_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 228 30/03/2017 14:17
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
London
Bristol
London
Bristol
Bristol
London
Bristol
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Bristol
Cardiff
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Manchester
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Inverness
Inverness
Aberdeen
Aberdeen
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
SCOTLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
ENGLAND
Glasgow
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Bristol
Newcastle
Carlisle
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
DRIVE 23 Liverpool SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
The Wild
West Coast
of Scotland
Inveraray to
Plockton
Highlights
• Meeting the locals
See abundant wildlife: grey and
common seals, playful otters, shy
pine martens, majestic red deer
and rare eagles
• Natural splendour
Travel through some of the most
stunning landscapes in Europe – deep
sea lochs framed by wild, craggy
mountains, and tumbling rivers
running through steep-sided glens
• Historic adventures
Visit Glencoe, scene of an infamous
betrayal; take a boat to the cave that
sheltered Bonnie Prince Charlie, and
explore ancient castles with many
colourful and historic connections
Glenelg Bay in the distance, seen from the
road to Kylerhea Otter Hide
228-229_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 229 30/03/2017 14:17

230 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Wild West Coast of Scotland Toscaig Locharron
Locharron
Toscaig
Scotland’s west coast is the most dramatic, jagged coastline in Great Inner Sound PLOCKTON Stromeferry
Stromeferry
PLOCKTON
Sallachy
Portree,
Britain. The route starts on the shores of Loch Fyne, at the pretty town Portree, Balmacara Sallachy
Dunvegan
Inner Sound
Balmacara
of Inveraray, whose grand castle is still a family home. It continues past Dunvegan Kyle of Lochalsh Dornie
Kyle of Lochalsh
stunning mountains and woodland, and through Glencoe, scene of C u i l l i n Broadford Kyleakin Loch Alsh Dornie EILEAN DONAN
Kyleakin
EILEAN DONAN
Loch Alsh
Loch CASTLE
Harrapool
a terrible massacre in 1692. Every now and then you’ll see a mighty C u i l l i n l l s Broadford Harrapool Loch CASTLE
H i
Torrin
Duich
H i l l s
Duich
S k ye
castle, testimony to the turbulent history of the area. Winding Torrin S k ye Glenelg
KYLERHEA
Kinloch
coastal routes lead to the remote Ardnamurchan Peninsula, Kinloch KYLERHEA Glenelg Shiel Bridge Five Siste r s ta il
Shiel
OTTER HIDE
Five Siste r s
of Kin
Bridge
before heading north to take the ferry across to the craggy ELGOL Loch Eishort Ord Ord OTTER HIDE The Saddle of Kinta il
Isleornsay
mountains and sandy beaches of the Isle of Skye. The final ELGOL Loch Eishort Isleornsay The Saddle 1012m
1012m
Arnisdale
Tarskavaig
Tarskavaig
Arnisdale
stop is back on the mainland, among the palm trees of ARMADALE CASTLE Loch Hourn
Kinloch Hourn
Loch Hourn
Plockton, warmed by the waters of the Gulf Stream. ARMADALE CASTLE Airor Airor Ladhar Bheinn Kinloch Hourn
GARDENS
GARDENS
Armadale
1019m
Armadale S o u n d o f S l e a t Ladhar Bheinn
1019m
Aird of Sleat S o u n d o f S l e a t Inverie Kno ydar t Loch
Aird of Sleat Inverie Kno ydar t Quoich Loch
Loch Quoich
Loch Garry
Point of Garry
Point of Sleat Loch Nevis Sgurr Na Ciche
Mallaig
Loch Nevis
Sleat Mallaig Sgurr Na Ciche
1040m
1040m
Murlaggan
Morar Tarbet Murlaggan
Tarbet
Morar Loch Morar Loch
C u i l l i n S o u n d
C u i l l i n S o u n d
Loch Morar Loch Clunes
Cleadale Culvain Arkaig Clunes
Mor ar
Cleadale Mor ar Culvain 983m Arkaig
Eigg Arisaig 983m Gairlochy
Eigg Arisaig HIGHLAND Gairlochy
Galmisdale HIGHLAND
Galmisdale Lochailort Glenfinnan
Sound of Arisaig Lochailort Loch Glenfinnan Muirshearlich
Sound of Arisaig Kinlocheil Muirshearlich
Loch Eilt Kinlocheil
Drimsallie
Smirisary Eilt Drimsallie Loch Eil Caol
Smirisary Loch Eil Caol
Moidar t
Moidar t Loch Fort William
Kinlochmoidart Loch Shiel Fort William
Kinlochmoidart Shiel Ben Nevis
Ockle Ben Nevis
1342m
Ockle Ardtoe 1342m
Achosnich Ardtoe Glenhurich
Achosnich ARDNAMURCHAN Acharacle Glenhurich Ar dg our
Acharacle
Ardnamurchan ARDNAMURCHAN Sunar t Ar dg our
PENINSULA
Ardnamurchan PENINSULA Salen Salen Sunar t Ardgour Inchree
Lighthouse
Lighthouse Ardgour Inchree Kinlochleven
Kilchoan
Strontian
Kilchoan Glenbeg Strontian Onich Kinlochleven
Natural History
Glenbeg Natural History Onich
K i n g a i r l o c h
Loch Linn
Centre
GLENCOE
Centre Ballachulish GLENCOE
Drimnin
Tobermory Drimnin Kinloch Loch Linnhe he Ballachulish Biedean Nam Bian
Above White sand made of crushed seashells on the fabulous beach at Sanna, Tobermory S S Kinloch K i n g a i r l o c h Biedean Nam Bian
1148m
1148m
Mor v er n
o
Ardnamurchan Peninsula, see p234 o u u Mor v er n Camasnacroise A p p i n A p p i n
Camasnacroise
n
Claggan G l e n E t i v e t i v e
n
d Port G l e n E
d Fiunary Claggan Port Portnacroish
Mull
Ramsay
KEY Mull Fiunary Ramsay Portnacroish B e n d e r l o c h
Lochaline
Guadachulain
Lochaline Lismore Port B e n d e r l o c h Guadachulain
Drive route Salen Lismore Port Appin
o f M u l l
Loch Etive
o f M u l l
Appin
Salen Achnacroish
Achnacroish SCOTTISH SEA LIFE Etive
SCOTTISH SEA LIFE
SANCTUARY
Craignure
ACTIVITIES Craignure Dunstaffnage SANCTUARY Loch
Dunstaffnage Castle Bonawe
Lochdon Castle Bonawe G l e n O r c h y
Travel deep inside a mountain at Cruachan Power Station Lochdon Connel BONAWE IRON FURNACE G l e n O r c h y
BONAWE IRON FURNACE
Connel
Below Boats moored in the still waters of the
Taynuilt
Climb up McCaig’s tower at Oban for views of the Isle of Mull port of Oban, see p233 OBAN Taynuilt Lochawe Dalmally Ben Lui
Dalmally
Lochawe
Lor n
OBAN Lor n Ben Lui
1130m
1130m
Come eye-to-eye with an inquisitive stingray at the Kilmore Kilchrenan CRUACHAN POWER STATION
CRUACHAN POWER STATION
aquarium in the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary Kilmore Kilchrenan
Kilninver Cladich
Kilninver Loch Awe Cladich
Explore the waterfalls and mountains at Glencoe and see Loch Awe G l e n F y n e
ARGYLL
the sites of the infamous massacre ARGYLL G l e n F y n e
AND BUTE
Watch for rare pine martens and eagles in the remote AND BUTE Cairndow
Ardnamurchan Peninsula Cairndow
Loch Fyne
INVERARAY
INVERARAY
Take a boat trip from Elgol to see Bonnie Prince Charlie’s cave Loch Fyne Laglingarten
Laglingarten
Watch the otters that inspired the book Ring of Bright Water
at the Kylerhea Otter Hide
230-231_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 230 30/03/2017 14:17
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Tour Map Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro

DRIVE 23: The Wild West Coast of Scotland 231


Toscaig Locharron
Toscaig Locharron PLAN YOUR DRIVE
PLOCKTON Stromeferry Start/finish: Inveraray to Plockton.
PLOCKTON Stromeferry
Portree, Sallachy
Portree, Sallachy Number of days: About 5–6 days.
Dunvegan
Inner Sound
Balmacara
Dunvegan Balmacara
Inner Sound
Kyle of Lochalsh
Dornie
Kyle of Lochalsh Loch Alsh Dornie Distances: Approx. 478 km (297 miles).
EILEAN DONAN
Kyleakin
Loch Alsh
Broadford Kyleakin EILEAN DONAN
Broadford Harrapool
C u i l l i n
H i Harrapool Loch CASTLE Road conditions: Generally good, but
C u i l l i n l l s
Torrin Loch CASTLE
Duich
H i l l s
Torrin S k ye Duich with long stretches of single track
S k ye Glenelg
Kinloch KYLERHEA Glenelg roads (with passing places) which
KYLERHEA
Shiel
Kinloch OTTER HIDE Shiel Bridge Five Siste r s ta il should be driven with care. The scenic
OTTER HIDE
Five Siste r s
of Kin
Bridge
ELGOL Loch Eishort Ord Ord The Saddle of Kinta il track to Glenelg, on Skye, is not useable
ELGOL Loch Eishort Isleornsay The Saddle 1012m in snow or ice – use Skye Bridge.
Isleornsay
1012m
Tarskavaig
Arnisdale
Tarskavaig Loch Hourn
Arnisdale
ARMADALE CASTLE Loch Hourn Above Narrow, winding coast road When to go: High summer (Jul–Aug)
Kinloch Hourn
ARMADALE CASTLE Airor Kinloch Hourn
GARDENS
GARDENS Airor Ladhar Bheinn on the Isle of Skye, see pp234–5 offers long hours of daylight, but can
Ladhar Bheinn
Armadale
1019m
Armadale S o u n d o f S l e a t 1019m get surprisingly busy. May, Jun, Sep
Aird of Sleat S o u n d o f S l e a t Inverie Kno ydar t Loch
Aird of Sleat Inverie Kno ydar t Quoich Loch 0 kilometres 10 and Oct are ideal. Please note, routes
Loch Quoich
Loch Garry
Point of Garry
Point of Sleat Loch Nevis Sgurr Na Ciche likely to get snowbound in winter.
Mallaig
Loch Nevis
Sleat Mallaig Sgurr Na Ciche 0 miles 10
1040m
1040m
Murlaggan Opening times: Museums and
Morar Tarbet Murlaggan
Tarbet
Morar Loch Morar Loch attractions are generally open
C u i l l i n S o u n d
C u i l l i n S o u n d
Loch Morar Loch Clunes
Cleadale Culvain Arkaig Clunes 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Cleadale Mor ar Culvain 983m Arkaig closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shop
Mor ar
Eigg Arisaig 983m Gairlochy
Eigg Arisaig HIGHLAND Gairlochy times are longer. Churches are usually
Galmisdale HIGHLAND
Galmisdale Lochailort Glenfinnan open until dusk.
Sound of Arisaig Lochailort Loch Glenfinnan Muirshearlich
Sound of Arisaig Kinlocheil Muirshearlich
Loch Eilt Kinlocheil Main market days: Oban: Farmers’
Drimsallie
Smirisary Eilt Drimsallie Loch Eil Caol
Smirisary Loch Eil Caol Market at Benderloch, near Oban, 1st
Moidar t
Moidar t Loch Fort William and 3rd Thu of month.
Kinlochmoidart Loch Shiel Fort William
Kinlochmoidart Shiel Ben Nevis
Ockle Ben Nevis
1342m
Ockle Ardtoe 1342m Shopping: Skye has plenty of craft
Achosnich Ardtoe Glenhurich
Achosnich ARDNAMURCHAN Acharacle Glenhurich Ar dg our outlets, selling sheepskins, Celtic
Acharacle
PENINSULA
Ardnamurchan ARDNAMURCHAN Sunar t Ar dg our
Ardnamurchan PENINSULA Salen Salen Sunar t Ardgour Inchree jewellery, pottery and knitwear. The
Lighthouse
Lighthouse Ardgour Inchree Kinlochleven island and other parts of the west
Kilchoan
Strontian
Kilchoan Glenbeg Strontian Onich Kinlochleven coast, also attracts many artists,
Natural History
Glenbeg Natural History Onich
K i n g a i r l o c h
Loch Linn
Centre
GLENCOE
Centre Ballachulish GLENCOE whose studios can be visited.
Tobermory Drimnin Kinloch Loch Linnhe he Ballachulish
Biedean Nam Bian
Tobermory S Drimnin Kinloch K i n g a i r l o c h Biedean Nam Bian Major festivals: Inveraray: Highland
1148m
S
1148m
Mor v er n
o
Mor v er n Camasnacroise A p p i n A p p i n Games, Jul; Oban: Highland and Islands
Camasnacroise
o
u
u
n
Claggan G l e n E t i v e t i v e Music & Dance, 4 days at the end of
n
d Port G l e n E
d Fiunary Claggan Port Portnacroish Apr; Skye: Highland Games, Aug.
Mull
Ramsay
Mull o f M u l l Lochaline Ramsay Portnacroish B e n d e r l o c h Guadachulain
Fiunary
Lochaline Lismore Port B e n d e r l o c h Guadachulain
Loch Etive
Salen Lismore Port Appin
Appin
o f M u l l
Salen Achnacroish
Achnacroish SCOTTISH SEA LIFE Etive
SCOTTISH SEA LIFE
Craignure SANCTUARY DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Craignure Dunstaffnage SANCTUARY Loch
G l e n O r c h y
Dunstaffnage Castle Bonawe
Lochdon Castle Bonawe G l e n O r c h y With beautiful countryside and wildlife,
Lochdon BONAWE IRON FURNACE Scotland is great for children. Stay
Connel
Connel BONAWE IRON FURNACE
Taynuilt at Inveraray to see its castle, before
Dalmally
Lochawe
OBAN Taynuilt Lochawe Dalmally Ben Lui heading off to the power station at
OBAN Lor n Ben Lui
1130m
Lor n 1130m Cruachan and going deep inside the
CRUACHAN POWER STATION
Kilmore Kilchrenan CRUACHAN POWER STATION
Kilmore Kilchrenan mountain. Picnic by the loch at the
Kilninver Cladich iron furnace at Bonawe and then see
Kilninver Loch Awe Cladich
Loch Awe the seals, rays and other fish at a sea
ARGYLL
ARGYLL G l e n F y n e G l e n F y n e life sanctuary. Older romantics might
AND BUTE
AND BUTE Cairndow prefer to stay at Plockton with its
Cairndow palms and harbour and then visit the
Loch Fyne
Loch Fyne Laglingarten and relive the exploits of a prince.
INVERARAY
INVERARAY gardens at Armadale. Carry on to Elgol
to see the craggy Cuillin mountains
Laglingarten
Then take a ferry and drive to dreamy
castle ruins. For full details, see p235.
230-231_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 231 30/03/2017 14:17

232 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Inveraray
Argyll; PA32
Sitting on the banks of Loch Fyne, Inveraray is small but imposing. The
town was built by the 3rd Duke of Argyll in the 18th century and has
two main visitor attractions – its 19th-century jail and castle. The walk
explores the surrounding woodland and starts with a visit to the castle.
A one-and-a-half-hour the ground is carpeted with bluebells.
walking tour The track soon passes a ruined former
From the car park, visit Inveraray Castle lime kiln 4 on the left hand side.
1 (Apr–Oct: open daily; www.inveraray- Continue uphill, then branch right
castle.com). The building belongs to the after a few minutes, still following the
Duke of Argyll, and the family are head blue arrows.
of the Campbell clan – the 1st Duke’s Eventually the path bears to the
regiment carried out the notorious right and flattens out a little, and the
massacre at Glencoe (see p234). It is fresh scent of pine trees fills the air.
Above View of Argyll Hotel and church tower crammed with tapestries, silverware After passing the remains of a wall,
from Loch Fyne and porcelain and unusual items such the woodland opens out, providing a
as Rob Roy’s sporran. glimpse of the surrounding hills. Zig-
VISITING INVERARAY From the castle entrance, look for the zag uphill now, to reach the summit,
Tourist Information “Dun na Cuaich walk” signs and follow which is covered with wild flowers in
Front Street, PA32 8UY; 01499 302 063; the blue arrows along a tarmac track. summer and also has a welcome seat.
www.inveraray-argyll.com; Apr–Oct: This soon passes a monument 2, The views of the castle, the town and
open daily; Nov-Mar: closed Sun. commemorating the execution of 17 the loch spread out far beneath are
Parking Campbell leaders by the 1st Marquis of wonderful. Dun na Cuaich 5 means
There is parking off The Avenue, in the Atholl in 1685. This was punishment something like “fort of cups” in Gaelic
centre of Inveraray, and by the castle.
for rising against the Stuart King and this peak was the site of an Iron-
James II in protest at his assertion that Age hillfort. The summit is topped
WHERE TO STAY
he was divine head of the church. with a monument, built by another of
INVERARAY Cross the charming 18th-century the famous Adam family of architects.
Creag Dhubh moderate stone bridge 3 – built by John Adam Some say it was used as a watchtower
A large, detached house set in neat – that spans the River Aray, then bear by the Campbells, others that it was
gardens, this family-run B&B has five bed- right to go through the woods. At a simply built to enhance the landscape.
rooms and great views over Loch Fyne.
Main Street South, PA32 8XT; 01499 302 gate, go straight ahead on the grassy After enjoying the views and taking
430; www.creagdhubh.com track to reach another gate, which a well-earned rest, simply follow the
leads into woodland – in springtime path back down to Inveraray. The
Rudha-Na-Craige moderate
This handsome house was built in the
19th century by the Duke of Argyll. Now
it is a 4-star B&B, with six unfussy, stylish
bedrooms, all with views of Loch Fyne.
Inverarary, PA32 8YX; 01499 302 668; Dun na
www.rudha-na-craige.com Cuaich
Loch Fyne Hotel and Spa expensive
Near the harbour, with stunning views of
Loch Fyne, this hotel has comfortable,
stylish rooms, a swimming pool and spa.
Main Street South, PA32 8XT; 01499 Lime Kiln
302 980; www.crerarhotels.com
BONAWE IRON FURNACE
Ardanaiseig Hotel expensive
Wildly romantic hotel on the shores of
Loch Awe (take B845 from Taynuilt), this
historic house has luxurious bedrooms. Stone
Kilchrenan, by Taynuilt, Argyll, PA35 1HE; Bridge
01866 833 333; www.ardanaiseig.com Monument
OBAN
Ranald Hotel moderate Inveraray
Modern hotel just off Oban’s main street Castle
with 17 en-suite rooms of varying sizes, 0 metres 500
including rooms for a small family. Aray
41 Stevenson Street PA34 5NA; 01631 0 yards 500
562 887; www.theranaldhotel.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


232-235_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 232 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 23: The Wild West Coast of Scotland 233


castle at the bottom has a café, where
walkers can refuel on tea and cakes.
ª Take the A819 north (signed for
Oban) then, after views of Kilchurn
Castle, turn left on the A85 to reach
Cruachan Power Station and car park.
2 Cruachan Power Station
Dalmally, Argyll; PA33 1AN
Hidden deep inside Ben Cruachan,
this hydro-electric power station,
(Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov-Mar: open Mon–
Fri; closed Jan) runs on water fed from
a reservoir high on the mountain.
Tours take visitors on a bus into a vast
cavern in the heart of the mountain.
Seeing the workings of this mighty
structure feels like entering the world
of James Bond. After a visit, try a brisk
walk around the loch or to the top of
Ben Cruachan, for views of the dam. Above top left 18th-century Bonawe Iron
ª Carry on A85, then turn right (signed resembling the Colosseum in Rome. Furnace Above Oban, overlooked by the
Brochroy), when road splits, bear right It was intended as a family memorial imposing McCaig’s Tower Above left Tower at
to Bonawe Iron Furnace. Park on site. and to provide work for local masons. Inveraray Castle, home to the Duke of Argyll
Started in 1897, it remained unfinished Below left Popular attraction of Inveraray Jail
3 Bonawe Iron Furnace when McCaig died in 1902. Climb up
By Taynuilt, Argyll; PA35 1JQ for fine views to the islands.
It is hard to imagine industry in this Just outside town, on the A85, stand EAT AND DRINK
tranquil spot by Loch Etive, but the romantic ruins of Dunstaffnage
Bonawe (Apr–Sep: open daily) was once Castle (Apr–Oct: open daily; Nov–Mar: INVERARAY
a flourishing iron furnace and what open Fri–Wed), one of Scotland’s oldest The George Hotel moderate
remains is Britain’s best example of a stone fortifications. It was built in the This popular seafront pub serves a wide
charcoal-fuelled ironworks. The 13th century to defend against maraud- range of traditional and vegetarian
ironworks were built here in the 18th ing Norsemen and was the stronghold dishes. Look out for fresh mussels and
century because of the vast supply of the MacDougall lords until it fell to chips, Scottish steak pie or haggis.
Main Street East, PA32 8TT; 01499 302
of wood from which charcoal could the kings of Scotland. Centuries later, 111; www.thegeorgehotel.co.uk
be made. Bonawe produced large Flora MacDonald was imprisoned here
numbers of cannonballs – some used for helping Bonnie Prince Charlie escape OBAN
by Lord Nelson in his sea battles. after the Jacobite rebellion. She was Oban Chocolate Company inexpensive
ª Return to the A85 and follow the later removed to the Tower of London. Relax into sofas and enjoy sea views at
this modern café for coffee, cakes and
road to Oban and park on street. ª Head north on A85, turn right onto ice cream – or hand-made chocolates.
A828 across the Connel Bridge. Follow 34 Corran Esplanade, PA34 5PS; 01631
4 Oban signs to Sea Life Sanctuary and car park. 566 099; www.obanchocolate.co.uk;
Oban, Argyll; PA34 closed Jan
Attractive Oban is a bustling working 5 Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary Oban Seafood Hut inexpensive
port, with fishing boats bobbing amid Barcaldine, Argyll; PA37 1SE Popular green hut serving the freshest
the passenger ferries running to the Situated on the shores of Loch Creran, seafood straight off the boat. Enjoy a
Hebridean islands. Overlooking the the Scottish Sea Life Sanctuary (open great-value platter on the quayside.
Calmac Pier, PA34 4DB; www.oban
town is McCaig’s Tower, a monument daily; www.sealsanctuary.co.uk) rescues seafoodhut.co.uk; closed Nov–Mar
seal pups found on the coast, nursing Coast moderate
them and rehabilitating them for Contemporary restaurant in a former
return to the wild – there are resident bank, specializing in locally caught
seals to admire. The aquarium holds seafood. Try Loch Linnhe langoustines.
sea creatures from starfish to stingrays 102–104 George Street, PA34 5NT;
and there is an adventure playground 01631 569 900; www.coastoban.co.uk
and woodland trail – it’s a fascinating Ee-usk moderate
place for both adults and children. Admire the lovely views of the Oban Bay
ª Drive north on A828 along the coast, while enjoying simple yet excellent
seafood. Booking recommended.
take A82, signed Crianlarich. Turn right North Pier, PA34 5QD; 01631 565 666;
for Glencoe Visitor Centre and car park. www.eeusk.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


232-235_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 233 20/07/18 7:45 PM

234 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


The Glencoe Massacre
The Macdonalds of Glencoe were
supporters of the Stuart kings. The
government offered an amnesty to
Highland chiefs who swore an oath
of allegiance to the new monarchs,
William and Mary. However, the
Macdonald Chief was late making his
declaration. So the Earl of Argyll’s
regiment, led by Captain Campbell,
was sent to Glencoe. After enjoying
the local hospitality for 10 days, on 13
February 1692, the soldiers attacked
their hosts, killing 38 Macdonalds.
Above The lush Ardnamurchan Peninsula, a
haven for Scottish wildlife 6 Glencoe
Glencoe; PH49 4LA Continue on B8007 to Ardnamurchan
CROSSING TO SKYE The mountains of Glencoe, described Point, generally regarded as mainland
Car ferry services by Queen Victoria as: “stern, rugged, Britain’s most westerly point. Built in
The ferry crossing to Skye from Mallaig precipitous”, are truly dramatic and 1849 and automated in 1988, the
takes about 30 minutes and is run by home to wildlife as varied as mountain lighthouse (Apr–Oct; www.ardnamurchan
Caledonian Macbrayne (08000 665 hares and golden eagles. But it is for lighthouse.com) is also a museum – climb
000; www.calmac.co.uk). The Glenelg–
Skye Ferry (Easter–Sep: runs daily the brutal massacre of 1692 that this the 152 steps to the top to enjoy
every 20 mins; www.calmac.co.uk) sombre place is best known. Glencoe glorious views. Just below there’s also a
crosses from Kylerhea to Glenelg. Visitor Centre (open daily; www.nts.org.uk) fabulous beach at Sanna, where the
has an excellent exhibition and film on white sand is made of shells.
WHERE TO STAY the history and wildlife of the glen; a ª Follow B8007 back to Salen, go left
viewing platform, and information on A861 and left on A830 to Mallaig.
AROUND GLENCOE
Kilcamb Lodge Hotel expensive on walks and climbs in the area. Take the ferry to Skye. Once on the
Peaceful hotel in a stunning lochside ª Follow A82 towards Fort William. island, take A851 to the castle.
location on the A861, beyond Strontian After Onich, follow signs for Corran
on the drive to Ardnamurchan Peninsula. Ferry and cross to Ardgour. Then follow 8 Armadale Castle Gardens
Combines luxury with friendliness and the A861 to Salen, and take B8007 to Armadale, Isle of Skye; IV45 8RS
attention to detail. Excellent food, too. the Natural History Centre and car park. Now largely ruined, the castle was once
Strontian, Argyll, PH36 4HY; 01967 402
257; www.kilcamblodge.co.uk home to members of the Clan Donald,
7 Ardnamurchan Peninsula former rulers of this area – Jacobite hero-
AROUND ARMADALE CASTLE Argyll; PH36 4JG ine Flora Macdonald was married here.
GARDENS This remote peninsula has a wet Visitors can stroll in the Castle Gardens
Tigh an Dochais moderate but mild climate and is home to a (Apr–Oct: open daily; www.clandonald.com)
Sleek rooms at this spotless B&B by the
beach, with views of Broadford Bay. wide array of plants and wildlife. The and woodlands. The Museum of the
Home-made bread and jam for breakfast. Ardnamurchan Natural History Centre Isles (same hours) is full of the area’s
13 Harrapool, Isle of Skye, IV49 9AQ; (Apr–Oct: check www.ardnamurchan history and the Clan Donald. The library
01471 820 022; www.skyebedbreakfast. naturalhistorycentre.com for timings) helps those tracing their family history.
co.uk; closed Dec–Feb
introduces visitors to the flora and ª Continue on A851 and A87 into
Kinloch Lodge expensive fauna with displays, remote CCTV Broadford, then turn left onto B8083.
Cosy atmosphere at the home of the cameras, specially constructed pine Follow this scenic single track road into
chief of the Macdonald clan and his
cookery-writer wife. A log fire burns in marten dens and a live “eagle cam”. Elgol. Park above the harbour.
the drawing room and the charming
bedrooms are individually furnished.
Sleat, Isle of Skye, IV43 8QY (on A851);
01471 833 333; www.kinloch-lodge.co.uk
PLOCKTON
The Plockton Hotel expensive
This hotel sits right on the seafront in
Plockton, so try and get a room with
a view across the loch. Bedrooms are
en suite and there’s a busy bar and
restaurant downstairs.
41 Harbour View, IV52 8TN; 01599 544
274; www.plocktonhotel.co.uk
Right Splendid waterfall in Glencoe, scene of
the brutal massacre in 1692




232-235_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 234 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 23: The Wild West Coast of Scotland 235














Above left Craggy mountains and landscape
9 Elgol q Eilean Donan Castle of Cuilins of Skye Above centre Female red
Isle of Skye; IV49 9BJ Dornie, by Kyle; IV40 8DX deer on the shore, Ardnamurchan Peninsula
Elgol offers fine views of the Cuillins of This gloriously romantic, castle (open Above right The pretty village of Plockton
Skye, a fierce craggy mountain range daily; closed Jan; www.eileandonancastle.
that challenges even experienced com) reached by an arched stone
climbers. Bonnie Prince Charlie was bridge sits on a rocky island, settled in EAT AND DRINK
hidden here in a remote cave, by loyal the 6th century by Saint Donan. The AROUND ARMADALE CASTLE
members of the Mackinnon clan, after castle was built much later, to defend GARDENS
defeat at Culloden in 1746. He was against invading Vikings. The building Sea Breezes moderate
then rowed across to Mallaig and was carefully restored in the 1930s – Set in a 19th century harbourside
taken to France. Visitors can take a boat visitors can now see the grand halls, building, this restaurant serves some of
trip to the cave, or join a trip to Loch bedrooms and kitchens. Eilean Donan the best and freshest of Skye’s seafood.
Coruisk in the heart of the Cuillins. may well look familiar: it has featured in 2 Marine Buildings, Quay Street,
Portree, Isle of Skye, IV51 9DE; 01478
ª Follow B8083 back to Broadford, many films, including the James Bond 612 016; www.seabreezes-skye.co.uk
turn right on A87 and right to Kylerhea, thriller, The World is Not Enough. The Three Chimneys expensive
turning left to Otter Haven Hide car park. ª Continue on the A87 – at Balmacara Acclaimed restaurant in the north of
turn right onto a pretty country road Skye, serving modern Scottish cuisine.
0 Kylerhea Otter Hide into Plockton. Park on street. The menu might include saddle of
Kylerhea, Isle of Skye; IV42 8 wild rabbit, or pan-fried sea trout,
This forest hide (open daily) offers great w Plockton followed by hot marmalade pudding.
Colbost, Dunvegan, Isle of Skye (on A87
views across the Kylerhea waters to Plockton, Ross-shire; IV52 north), IV55 8ZT; 01470 511 258;
Glenelg. Visitors can watch otters on The warm winds of the Gulf Stream www.threechimneys.co.uk
the shore, common and Atlantic grey give the little village of Plockton a
seals in the water and even the surprisingly lush appearance: there are PLOCKTON
occasional white-tailed sea eagle. The palm trees, colourful flowers and all Harbour Fish Bar inexpensive
otters here inspired Gavin Maxwell’s sorts of exotic plants flourishing in the Fabulous chip shop serving the freshest
locally caught fish (and chips), as well
famous novel, Ring of Bright Water. gardens that line the harbour. It started as veggie dishes, pizza and pasta.
ª From Kylerhea take ferry to Glenelg, life as a fishing village, planned in the Innes Street, IV52 8TW; open daily
take the coast road then turn left to Shiel 18th-century by the Earl of Seaforth. It Apr–Oct
Bridge. Stop at viewpoint for Five Sisters makes a relaxing base and is popular Plockton Shores moderate
of Kintail mountains above Loch Duich. with sailors, who moor their yachts in This is part-grocer’s shop, part-
In Shiel Bridge, turn left on the A87, then the harbour. Visitors can enjoy loch restaurant, on the waterfront in
left to castle. In winter, when ferry is not and hill walks or go on a sea cruise to Plockton. Locally sourced food might
include scallops, or venison cooked
running, leave Skye on A87, cross bridge see the coast with Calum’s Boat Trips with juniper and thyme.
to Kyle of Lochalsh, turn left for Plockton. (01599 544 306; www.calums-sealtrips.com). 30 Harbour St, IV52 8TN; 01599 544 263
DAY TRIP OPTIONS 3, for a picnic in the idyllic grounds walk around pretty Armadale Castle
This route can easily be split into day before driving to the Scottish Sea Life Gardens 8. Go to Elgol 9, close to
trips from Inveraray and Plockton. Sanctuary 5, to see the seals, the the cave that hid Bonnie Prince Charlie
aquarium and walk in the woods. and cross back to the mainland on the
Family Adventure Glenelg-Skye ferry to visit the romantic
From Inveraray 1, buy some picnic Follow A819, then join A85 north. Turn ruins of Eilean Donan Castle q.
provisions and visit the castle, with its off right on A828. Reverse to return.
splendid interiors, then head north to Castles and Skye From Plockton head to the Kyle of
Ben Cruachan Power Station 2, to go Enjoy Plockton’s w temperate climate Lochalsh and take A87, then A851 to
deep inside the mountain. Next, it’s a and pretty palm-lined harbour, then the castle gardens. Then follow the
short drive to Bonawe Iron Furnace cross the bridge to the Isle of Skye and drive instructions all the way back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
WALES
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Manchester
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Inverness
Inverness
Aberdeen
Aberdeen
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
ENGLAND
Glasgow
Glasgow
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Bristol
Carlisle
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
DRIVE 24 Liverpool Leeds Manchester London Plymouth Liverpool SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle WALES SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
The Heart
of Scotland
Perth to Loch
Lomond
Highlights
• Fairytale castles
Visit the great Scottish castles at Blair
Atholl and Glamis, as well as historic
Scone Palace, where the kings of
Scotland were once crowned
• Rivers and lochs
Enjoy the beautiful scenery from
the great River Tay as it flows from
Dunkeld down to Perth; from slender
Loch Voil to the largest expanse of
freshwater in the UK, Loch Lomond
• Literary associations
Follow the literary links: see the home
of J M Barrie; Birnam Wood mentioned
in Shakespeare’s Macbeth and visited
by Beatrix Potter; and the highland
glens and grave of Rob Roy, hero of
Sir Walter Scott and Daniel Defoe
A sun-dappled road through Argyll Forest Park,
west of Loch Lomond
236-237_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 237 30/03/2017 14:17

238 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Heart of Scotland

This tour characterizes perfectly the variety that Scotland has to offer. It BLAIR CASTLE
BLAIR CASTLE
takes visitors through the very heart of the country: where the Lowlands
Blair Atholl
meet the Highlands, where famous figures like Rob Roy once lived Calvine Blair Atholl
Calvine
Killiecrankie
Killiecrankie
and historic battles were fought. Here the landscape – which PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE
PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE
encompasses Loch Lomond and the Trossachs, Scotland’s first
Kirkmichael
Strathtummel
National Park – is a picturesque mixture of brooding hills, open Tummel Strathtummel Pitlochry Kirkmichael
Tummel
Bridge
Pitlochry
Bridge
Kirkton of
Kirkton of
glens, ancient trees and tranquil lochs. It is superb walking Schichallion Foss Foss Kingoldrum
Kingoldrum
Schichallion
country, offering trails for all abilities. Food lovers will 1081m Tay Tay Dykehead KIRRIEMUIR
KIRRIEMUIR
1081m
Dykehead
Ballinluig
enjoy the chance to taste some of Britain’s finest Carn Mairg Ballinluig Bridge Erich Erich Craigton Forfar
Carn Mairg
Forfar
Craigton
1042m
1042m
Bridge
food –soft fruit from Angus and fresh salmon Invervar DullDull Aberfeldy of Cally Alyth Alyth GLAMIS
of Cally
GLAMIS
Aberfeldy
Invervar
Ruth
Dowally
CASTLE
and trout caught in the River Tay. Dowally Butterstoneone Ruthvenven CASTLE
Butterst
Glamis
Bridge of THE FORTINGALL Glamis
Bridge of
THE FORTINGALL
MEIGLE
Rattray
Kenmore
Balgie
Balgie Kenmore Rattray MEIGLE
Blairgowrie
YEW YEW Loch of Blairgowrie MUSEUM
Loch of
MUSEUM
the Loweswes ANGUS
ANGUS
the Lo
Newtyle
Ben Lawers
Ben Lawers Loch Loch Newtyle
DUNKELD
1215m
1215m Tay Tay DUNKELD Coupar Kirkton of
Coupar
Kirkton of
Auchterhouse
Caputh
Meikleour
Lawers
Angus
Meall nan
Milton
Meall nan Lawers Milton Caputh Meikleour Angus Auchterhouse
Tarmachan
Tarmachan
1043m
1043m Burrelton Lundie
Burrelton
Lundie
Bankfoot
Amulree Bankfoot Kirkton of
Kirkton of
Amulree
Strathmar
Ardeonaig
Ardeonaig PER T H AND KINR O SS SS S i d l a w H i l l s s Strathmartinetine
PER T H AND KINR O
Killin Killin Collace S i d l a w H i l l
Collace
Abernyte
Abernyte
Dundee
Guildtown
Ben Chonzie
Chapelhill
Ben Chonzie Chapelhill Guildtown Dundee
929m 929m G l e n A l m o n d n d Tay Tay Dundee
Dundee
Moneydie Balbeggie Lonforgangan
Lonfor
Moneydie
Balbeggie
G l e n A l m o
Inchture
Scone Palace
Scone Palace Inchture
Meth
Methvenven RaitRait
New Sc
Loch Earn
St Fillans
Loch Earn St Fillans Gilmerton New Sconeone
Gilmerton
PER
Lochearnhead Tibbermore PERTHTH Errol Errol
Lochearnhead
Tibbermore
Comrie
Comrie Crieff Crieff Glencarse
Glencarse
Loch Voil
Loch Voil Aberdalgie
Aberdalgie
Ben Vorlighligh Kinkell Bridge of Earn
Ben Vor
Bridge of Earn
Kinkell
BALQUHIDDER
BALQUHIDDER 1013m Muthill Earn Earn Bridge
1013m
Bridge
Strathyre
Strathyre Muthill
Aberuth
Dalchruin
Dalchruin Aberuthvenven
ST IRLING
ST IRLING Auchterarder Dunning
Dunning
Auchterarder
Loch Loch
Loch Loch Lubnaig
Lubnaig
Katrine
Katrine Pass of
Pass of
Blackford
Ben Ledi Leny Leny Braco Braco Blackford
Ben Ledi
Above Balfour Castle in the Kirkton of 876m 876m Loch Loch CALLANDER
CALLANDER
Greenloaning
Brig o‘ Turk
Kingoldrum, near Kirriemuir, see p240 Ben Venue Brig o‘ Turk Venachar Greenloaning
Venachar
Ben Venue
Below Ben Lomond seen in the distance 730m 730m
Port of
Port of
over Loch Lomond, see p243 Menteitheith Doune
Doune
Ment
Kinlochard
Kinlochard
Dunblane
Lak
Aberfoyle
Aberfoyle Lake ofe of Thornhill Dunblane
Thornhill
Menteith
Menteith
INCHMAHOME Forth Forth
INCHMAHOME
PRIORY
Gartmore PRIORY
Gartmore
Arnprior
Arnprior
Luss Luss Buchlyvie
Buchlyvie
BALMAHA
BALMAHA
Loch Loch
Lomond
Lomond ACTIVITIES
Drymen
Drymen
Killearn
Gartocharn
Gartocharn Killearn Go on a ghost hunt at spooky Glamis Castle
LOCH LOMOND
LOCH LOMOND
SHORES Enjoys a day’s trout fishing on the Tay at Dunkeld
SHORES
Balloch
Balloch
Alexandria
Alexandria Walk through the wooded gorge, the scene of
the Battle at Killiecrankie
Watch for red squirrels in the woods of Blair Castle
Take the ferry across to the island of Inchmahome
Priory in the Lake of Menteith
Paddle a kayak on beautiful Loch Lomond or
explore via a cruise boat
238-239_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 238 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 24: The Heart of Scotland 239

0 kilometres 10
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
0 miles 10
Start/finish: Perth to Loch Lomond.
BLAIR CASTLE KEY
BLAIR CASTLE
Number of days: Around 3–4 days.
Blair Atholl Drive route
Blair Atholl
Calvine
Calvine
Killiecrankie
Killiecrankie Distances: Approx 400 km (248 miles)
PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE Road conditions: The roads are
PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE
Kirkmichael
Strathtummel
Tummel
Tummel Strathtummel Kirkmichael mostly good and well signposted,
Bridge Foss Foss Pitlochry Kirkton of although there are some winding,
Pitlochry
Bridge
Kirkton of
Kingoldrum
Kingoldrum hilly sections and narrow single-track
Schichallion
Schichallion
KIRRIEMUIR
1081m KIRRIEMUIR roads. The road to Bridge of Balgie is
1081m
Tay Tay Dykehead
Dykehead
Ballinluig
Carn Mairg Ballinluig Forfar unsuitable for caravans, and impassable
Carn Mairg
Forfar
Craigton
1042m
1042m Bridge Erich Erich Craigton
Bridge
of Cally
DullDull of Cally Alyth Alyth in bad weather, icy conditions and
GLAMIS
Aberfeldy
Invervar
Invervar Aberfeldy GLAMIS
Ruth
Dowally
Dowally Ruthvenven CASTLE snow; use A827 as an alternative.
CASTLE
Butterst
Butterstoneone
Glamis
Bridge of
Bridge of THE FORTINGALL Glamis When to go: Spring is a pleasant time
THE FORTINGALL
MEIGLE
Kenmore
Rattray
Balgie Kenmore Rattray MEIGLE
Balgie
Blairgowrie
YEW YEW Loch of Blairgowrie MUSEUM to visit. Summer brings better weather,
Loch of
MUSEUM
the Loweswes ANGUS
ANGUS
the Lo
Newtyle
Ben Lawers
Ben Lawers Loch Loch Newtyle but also more visitors and the Scottish
DUNKELD
1215m
1215m Tay Tay DUNKELD Coupar Kirkton of
Coupar
Kirkton of
Caputh
Auchterhouse
Lawers
Meikleour
Meall nan
Angus
Meall nan Lawers Milton Caputh Meikleour Angus Auchterhouse midge. Autumn is beautiful when the
Milton
Tarmachan
Tarmachan trees change colour. Sections of the
1043m
1043m Burrelton Lundie
Burrelton
Lundie
Bankfoot
Kirkton of
Amulree
Amulree Bankfoot Kirkton of drive may be snowbound in winter.
Strathmar
Ardeonaig
Ardeonaig PER T H AND KINR O SS SS S i d l a w H i l l s s Strathmartinetine
PER T H AND KINR O
Killin Killin Collace S i d l a w H i l l Opening times: Museums and
Collace
Abernyte
Abernyte
Dundee
Guildtown
Chapelhill
Ben Chonzie
Ben Chonzie Chapelhill Guildtown Dundee attractions are generally open
929m 929m G l e n A l m o n d n d Tay Tay Dundee 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Dundee
Moneydie Balbeggie Lonforgangan
Lonfor
Moneydie
Balbeggie
G l e n A l m o
Inchture
Scone Palace
Scone Palace Inchture closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
Meth
Methvenven RaitRait are often open longer. Churches are
New Sc
Loch Earn
Loch Earn St Fillans Gilmerton New Sconeone
St Fillans
Gilmerton
PER
Lochearnhead Tibbermore PERTHTH Errol Errol usually open until dusk.
Lochearnhead
Tibbermore
Comrie
Comrie Crieff Crieff Glencarse Main market days: Perth: Farmers’
Glencarse
Aberdalgie
Loch Voil Aberdalgie
Loch Voil
Ben Vor
Ben Vorlighligh Kinkell Bridge of Earn Market, 1st Sat of month.
Kinkell
Bridge of Earn
BALQUHIDDER
BALQUHIDDER 1013m Muthill Earn Earn Bridge
1013m
Bridge
Strathyre
Strathyre Muthill
Aberuth
Dalchruin Aberuthvenven Shopping: Jams made from local
Dalchruin
ST IRLING Auchterarder Dunning berries; woollens, Celtic jewellery and
ST IRLING
Auchterarder
Dunning
Loch Loch fine foods at Loch Lomond Shores, the
Loch Loch Lubnaig
Lubnaig
Katrine Pass of National Park Gateway, Balloch.
Katrine
Pass of
Blackford
Ben Ledi Leny Leny Braco Braco Blackford
Ben Ledi
876m 876m Below The spectacular rocks at Bracklinn Falls, near Callander, see pp242–3
CALLANDER
Greenloaning
Brig o‘ Turk
Brig o‘ Turk Loch Loch CALLANDER Greenloaning Main festivals: Perth: Scottish Game
Venachar
Ben Venue Venachar Fair (Scone Palace), Jul; Glamis:
Ben Venue
730m 730m
Strathmore Highland Games, 2nd Sat
Port of
Port of
Doune
Ment
Menteitheith Doune in Jun; Dunkeld: Birnam Highland
Kinlochard
Kinlochard
Dunblane
Aberfoyle
Thornhill
Aberfoyle Lake ofe of Thornhill Dunblane Games, last Sat in Aug; Blair Castle:
Lak
Menteith
Menteith
INCHMAHOME Forth Forth International Horse Trials, Aug;
INCHMAHOME
PRIORY
Gartmore PRIORY Glenfiddich Piping and Fiddling
Gartmore
Arnprior Championships, Oct; Balloch: Loch
Arnprior
Luss Luss Buchlyvie Lomond Highland Games, Jul.
Buchlyvie
BALMAHA
BALMAHA
Loch Loch
Lomond
Lomond
Drymen
Drymen DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Killearn
Gartocharn Killearn
Gartocharn
LOCH LOMOND
LOCH LOMOND Staying at Perth, visit its fine gardens,
SHORES
SHORES church and gallery and the palace
Balloch
Balloch
at Scone. Then head to Dunkeld for
Alexandria a walk by the river, with its huge
Alexandria
stone bridge, ruined cathedral and
mighty trees. Romantics can walk
beside the river at Callander, see the
shops and then drive by a loch to
Balquhidder glen to see Rob Roy’s
grave, then head south to visit the
island priory at Inchmahome. For full
details, see p243.
238-239_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 239 20/07/18 7:45 PM

240 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING PERTH
1 Perth
Parking Perthshire; PH1
Long-stay parking by the railway station, The “Fair City”, as Sir Walter Scott
on the High Street and on South Street.
dubbed Perth, sits on the banks of the
Tourist Information River Tay – Scotland’s longest river. It’s
45 High Street, PH1 5TJ; 01738 450 600; a lovely green city: Branklyn Gardens
www.perthshire.co.uk
(Dundee Road; open daily) are famed for
VISITING DUNKELD their brilliant blue Himalayan poppies;
and Cherrybank Gardens (Glasgow
Parking Road; open daily) contain the National
There is a large car park in the town
centre, behind the High Street. Collection of heathers. The Museum
Tourist Information and Art Gallery (closed Sun) contains Above The wonderful Italian Garden at Glamis
The Cross, PH8 OAN; 01350 727 688 water colours by Beatrix Potter, creator Castle, laid out in 1910
of Peter Rabbit (see opposite).
Just north of the city, off the A93, 3 Glamis Castle
WHERE TO STAY
stands Scone (pronounced “scoon”) Glamis, Angus; DD8 1RJ
PERTH Palace (Apr–Oct; open daily; www.scone- With its grand towers, turrets and tiny
Ardfern House moderate palace.co.uk). In the grounds lies Moot windows, Glamis Castle (Apr–Oct: open
Enjoy pretty rooms at this comfortable Hill where ancient Scottish kings such daily; guided tours only; www.glamis-
Victorian house. There’s a fire in the as Macbeth and Robert the Bruce were castle.co.uk) looks like a French château
lounge and many options for breakfast.
15 Pitcullen Crescent, PH2 7HT; 01738 crowned. The Stone of Destiny stood or something out of a fairytale. The
637 031; www.ardfernperth.co.uk here until Edward I took it to London in seat of the Earls of Strathmore since
1296: it sat under the Coronation Chair 1372, it was the childhood home of
Beechgrove Guest House moderate
Attractive B&B overlooking the Tay, just until 1996. It’s now in Edinburgh Castle. the late Queen Elizabeth the Queen
outside the centre, offers traditional ª Continue on the A93, past the 30-m Mother: visitors can see her sitting
en-suite rooms and has its own grounds. (100-ft) high Meiklour beech hedge, room and bedroom. The castle is said
Dundee Road, PH2 7AQ; 01738 636 planted in 1745. Soon after, turn right to be the most haunted building in
147; www.beechgroveperth.co.uk
onto the A984 signed Coupar Angus Scotland and the creepy crypt
Salutation Hotel moderate and at crossroads go right on the A923. contains a secret room: according to
Reputed to be one of Scotland’s oldest At Coupar Angus take the A94 to Meigle. legend, it was where one of the lords
hotels, the Salutation has 84 rooms, a
bar and a restaurant. of Glamis played cards with the Devil.
34 South Street, PH2 8PH; 01738 630 2 Meigle Museum The room was later sealed up. In
066; www.strathmorehotels.com Meigle, Perthshire; PH12 8SB summer, the Strathmore Highland
Meigle Museum (Apr–Sept: open daily) Games are held in the grounds.
AROUND DUNKELD
Dunkeld House Hotel expensive contains a superb collection of Pictish ª Take A928 north and park in centre.
Lodge as the nobility did in this country stones, dating back to the 8th century.
house hotel with four-poster beds, Amongst the images carved on these 4 Kirriemuir
suites, fireplaces, pool, spa and tennis mysterious stones by the Picts are a Angus; DD8
courts, and fine-dining restaurant.
Blairgowrie Road, Dunkeld, camel, a bear and mythical beasts. Known in the19th century for its
PH8 0HX; 01350 727 771; ª From Meigle, continue on the A94, jute factories, Kirriemuir is now more
www.dunkeldhousehotel.co.uk turning left to reach Glamis Castle. famous as J M Barrie’s Birthplace
(Easter–Oct: open Sat–Wed; Jul, Aug: open
daily; www.nts.org.uk). The museum is
signposted, just off the central square.
The creator of Peter Pan was the 9th
of 10 children and it’s hard to imagine
how they all squeezed into the tiny
upper rooms. Barrie’s father, a weaver,
worked downstairs. Outside is the
little wash house, in which the 7-year-
old author acted out his first plays – it
inspired Wendy’s House in Peter Pan.
ª Pick up A926 towards Blairgowrie,
then take A923 past the Loch of the
Lowes Visitor Centre (ospreys can be
seen in late spring) and into Dunkeld.
Far left The compact and pretty city of Perth, set
beside the River Tay Left The elegant tea garden
and peacock at 14th-century Scone Palace, Perth



240-243_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 240 20/07/18 7:24 PM

DRIVE 24: The Heart of Scotland 241














Left to right Dunkeld: Neo-Gothic fountain at
5 Dunkeld the market cross; part of the ruined wing of
Perthshire; PH8 Dunkeld Cathedral; the impressive Dunkeld
This charming market town, with shops, restaurants and a 14th-century Bridge, spanning the River Tay
cathedral makes a relaxing place to stop. It stands on one bank of the
River Tay, with the town of Birnam on the other. As well as excellent EAT AND DRINK
salmon and trout fishing on the Tay, the nearby woods and hills offer PERTH
plenty of fine walks – ask about these activities in the Tourist Office. 63 Tay Street moderate
There’s a contemporary feel to this fine
restaurant in the heart of Perth. Enjoy
A one-and-a-half-hour hours exploring with a local naturalist, risotto of Scottish lobster and scallops.
walking tour Charles Macintosh. The wildlife and 63 Tay Street, PH2 8NN; 01736 441 451;
From the car park, walk down Bridge countryside inspired Beatrix to create www.63taystreet.com; closed Sun, Mon
Street and over Dunkeld Bridge 1 such enduring characters as Peter MEIGLE
across the Tay. It was built in the early Rabbit and Mrs Tiggy Winkle, years The Joinery Coffee Shop inexpensive
19th century by Thomas Telford, and later. The exhibition includes a Lovely little café in a former joinery in
cost £15,000 (about £1m today). It’s a Victorian schoolroom, information Meigle. Come for homemade soups,
magnificent structure over 200 m panels and a Beatrix Potter Garden – freshly made panini and delicious cakes.
(685 ft) long. Keep to the left and, just the museum is an ideal place for The Square, PH12 8RN; 01828 640717;
www.joinerycoffeeshop.co.uk
over the bridge, take the steps down young children. There’s also a café.
to the river – a sign says Birnam Walk. To return to Dunkeld, either walk KIRRIEMUIR
Once under the bridge, go left to back along the river or follow Perth Lands of Loyal moderate
follow a path which offers picturesque Road in Birnam to cross the bridge. Seasonal produce, game and fish are
views of Dunkeld Cathedral 2, much ª Take the A9 north, after Pitlochry served in the restaurant of this grand
of which is in ruins, the result of turn left, onto the B8019, then right hotel just outside Alyth. After lunch,
enjoy a walk in the fabulous grounds.
damage during the Reformation onto the B8079 to Killiecrankie. The Alyth, Blairgowrie, PH11 8JQ; 01828
in the 16th century. Pass Visitor Centre is clearly signposted. 633 151; www.landsofloyal.co.uk
The most scenic and enjoyable
option from here is to retrace the walk
route under the bridge, keeping the
river now on the left-hand side.
After crossing a small footbridge,
there’s a mighty sycamore tree and DUNKELD
the Birnam Oak 3, its lower branches
Dunkeld
propped up with posts, like an elderly Cathedral
gentleman leaning on a stick. This B R I D G E S T R E E T Dunkeld
is the last survivor of Birnam Wood, Bridge
mentioned in Shakespeare’s Macbeth. Tay
Follow this lovely tree-lined path
LITTLE
along the river to a blue painted DUNKELD Birnam
fishing hut 4 by the waters of the Tay. Oak
Return the same way along the river- P E R T H R O A D
side but, just before reaching the
Birnam Oak, turn left up a set of steps.
Follow the path to the road in Birnam, Beatrix Potter
and cross over to visit the Beatrix Exhibition BIRNAM
Potter Exhibition 5 (open daily). The 0 metres 500 Dunkeld and Birnam Fishing
Hut
children’s author Beatrix Potter used to 0 yards 500 Station
holiday in Birnam as a child, and spent
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


240-243_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 241 20/07/18 7:24 PM

242 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING CALLANDER
6 Pass of Killiecrankie by Bonnie Prince Charlie. The grounds
Tourist Information Pitlochry, Perthshire; PH16 5LG include a deer park, gardens and
52–54 Main Street, FK17 8ED; 01877 On the evening of 27 July 1689, woods, the haunt of red squirrels.
330 342; www.visitscotland.co.uk
the wooded gorge at Killiecrankie ª Return past Killiecrankie on B8079,
WHERE TO STAY became a bloody battleground, when then go right on the scenic B8019. At
Highland troops led by John Graham Tummel Bridge, go left on B846 and turn
PASS OF KILLIECRANKIE of Claverhouse routed government right to Fortingall. Park at the church.
Killiecrankie House Hotel expensive forces in the first battle of the Jacobite
Enjoy crisp white bedlinen and tasteful 8 The Fortingall Yew
furniture at this small country hotel with rebellion. The Visitor Centre (Apr–Oct:
rural views and locally sourced breakfasts. open daily) tells the story of the battle Fortingall, Aberfeldy; PH15 2NQ
Pass of Killiecrankie, PH16 5LG; 01796 and also has displays on the wildlife In a corner of the churchyard stands
473 220; www.killiecrankiehotel.co.uk and natural history of the gorge, which the Fortingall Yew: probably the
CALLANDER looks particularly beautiful when the oldest living thing in Europe, it is
Arden House moderate trees turn russet and gold in autumn. thought to be 5,000 years old. Legend
This handsome Victorian house has A path leads down to a viewpoint over has it that Pontius Pilate knew this
comfortable, good-sized rooms. Soldier’s Leap, where a government tree, not so unlikely as his father, an
Bracklinn Road, FK17 8EQ; 01877 339 soldier, leapt 5.5 m (18 ft) across the army officer, was stationed here
405; www.ardenhouse.org.uk River Garry to escape the Highlanders. during the Roman occupation.
Leny Estate expensive ª Turn left out of car park and follow ª Continue down the road to Bridge
This peaceful estate on the edge of B8079 to Blair Castle and car park. of Balgie and turn left signed to Killin.
Callander has six attractive, heated lodge- Turn right on the A827, go through
style cabins and a flat in the castle.
Leny House, FK17 8HA; 01877 331 078; 7 Blair Castle Killin, then pick up the A85 towards
www.lenyestate.com Blair Atholl, Pitlochry; PH18 5TL Perth. At Lochearnhead, take the A84,
Roman Camp Country House Strategically situated to defend the then turn right to Balquhidder.
expensive highland passes, imposing Blair Castle
A 17th-century hunting lodge, this (Apr–Oct: open daily; www.blair-castle.co. 9 Balquhidder
country house with wood panelling and uk) was the ancestral home of the Perthshire; FK19 8PA
ornate ceilings offers traditional comforts. Dukes of Atholl. It dates back to This small village is set by Loch Voil
Off Main Street, FK17 8BG; 01877 330
003; www.romancamphotel.co.uk the 13th century but has been greatly under spectacular mountains. In its
expanded over the years. In summer, a churchyard is the grave of one of
INCHMAHOME PRIORY uniformed piper may well be playing Scotland’s most famous figures: Rob
Lake of Menteith Hotel expensive outside – an Atholl Highlander, the Roy Macgregor (1671–1734). Rob Roy,
This hotel looks across the water towards only private army in Europe, raised by whose nickname came from his red
Inchmahome Priory and has bright
rooms. Breakfast on Scottish produce. the 4th Duke in 1778. Highlights here hair (“roy” comes from the Gaelic for
Port of Menteith, FK8 3RA; 01877 385 include the furniture used by Queen red), fought at Killiecrankie. After a
258; www.lake-hotel.com Victoria and an ivory compass carried dispute with the Duke of Montrose,
he embarked on a campaign of cattle
rustling and eventually became an
outlaw. Avoiding capture, he became a
romantic hero, immortalized by writers
Sir Walter Scott and Daniel Defoe.
ª Return to the A84 south to
Callander and park in the centre.
0 Callander
Callander, Stirling; FK17
Popularly known as the “gateway to
the highlands”, Callander, with its shops
and restaurants, makes an excellent
base for exploring. In the 1960s and
70s it gained fame as Tannochbrae in
the UK TV version of Dr Finlay’s Casebook
by A J Cronin. Visitors can enjoy signed
walks along the River Teith and to
Far left Shaded woods in the gorge at the
Pass of Killicrankie Top left The magnificent
white-painted exterior of 13th-century Blair
Castle Bottom left The grave of Rob Roy
bearing its defiant motto
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


240-243_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 242 20/07/18 7:24 PM

DRIVE 24: The Heart of Scotland 243














Above left Unspoilt Callander, set in the
Bracklinn Falls, climbs up nearby Ben with thickly wooded islands, including beautiful Trossach hills Above right Boats
Ledi and bike rides on the national Inchconnachan, which is home to an on serene Loch Lomond as seen from
cycleway – see Tourist Information (left). unlikely colony of wallabies, introduced Balmaha Below Lake cruise ship on Loch
ª Take A81 signed Glasgow. Go left at in the early 20th century. Lomond awaiting passengers, Balloch
B8034 to Port of Menteith ferry car park. ª Return to Drymen, then take A811
towards Glasgow to Balloch. Follow EAT AND DRINK
q Inchmahome Priory signs to Loch Lomond Shores car park.
Lake of Menteith; FK8 3RA AROUND BLAIR CASTLE
There can be few more picturesque e Loch Lomond Shores Loch Tummel Inn moderate
This inn by Loch Tummel is on the B8019
places than Inchmahome Priory (Apr– Ben Lomond Way, Balloch; G83 8QL about 15 minutes from Killiecrankie. Bar
Sep: open daily; www.historic-scotland.gov. Visitors to Balloch should head for meals include big sandwiches, mussels
uk). This Augustinian monastery sits on Loch Lomond Shores (open daily; www. in wine or Aberdeen Angus burgers.
a small island in the Lake of Menteith, lochlomondshores.com), gateway to the Strathtummel, PH16 5RP; 01882 634
272; www.theinnatlochtummel.com
and can only be reached by ferry. The Loch Lomond National Park, to pick up
priory, built in 1283, was home to a local crafts and walk maps. Here, it is THE FORTINGALL YEW
small religious community for 300 also possible to hire bikes, canoes and Fortingall Hotel moderate
years. Visitors can stroll around the kayaks, or book tickets to take a cruise Beside the famous Fortingall Yew, this
tranquil ruins, which once provided a on the loch itself. Visitors with children hotel restaurant serves good Scottish
refuge for young Mary, Queen of Scots. will enjoy a visit to the aquarium, produce, such as fresh salmon from
the Tay and locally raised lamb.
ª Continue along B8034, turning which offers close up views of Fortingall, PH15 2NQ; 01887 830 367;
right on A811. At Drymen, turn right creatures such as starfish and sharks. www.fortingall.com
on B837 to Balmaha and car park.
BALQUHIDDER
w Balmaha Monachyle Mhor expensive
Enjoy chic eating on the north shore
Loch Lomond; G63 OJQ of Loch Voil. The menu is modern
Balmaha is a tiny village on the east Scottish, and there are vegetarian
bank of Loch Lomond, nestling amid dishes, too. Also has superb rooms.
ancient oak woods. These support so Balquhidder, FK19 8PQ; 01877 384 622;
www.mhor.net
much wildlife they are a Site of Special
Scientific Interest. Walk the Millennium CALLANDER
Forest Path through the woods or take The Riverside Inn moderate
a ferry from the boatyard to visit the Well-rounded central pub with live
island of Inchcailleach. At 39 km (24 music, real ales and dependable bar
food. There’s a decent kids’ menu too.
miles) long and 8 km (5 miles) wide, 8–10 Leny Road, Callander FK17 8BA;
Loch Lomond is the largest expanse of 01877 331 762; www.
freshwater in Britain. The loch is dotted riversideinncallander.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS to Dunkeld 5 to see its cathedral, driving up the loch to Balquhidder 9
Perth and Callander are excellent and historic trees beside the River to see Rob Roy’s grave and the glens.
bases for day trips. Tay, and walk into Birnam. Then return to Callander and head
Gardens and River Tay Take A93 to Scone Palace and then south to take a boat to romantic
Inchmahome Priory q, set on an
Staying at Perth 1, spend the return to Perth centre and take the A9.
morning enjoying its sights – the river, Return to Perth on the A9. island in Lake Menteith.
gardens and galleries – and then Romance of the Lochs From Callander take A84, then follow
enjoy a tour of Scone Palace, where From Callander 0, explore the town signs to Balquhidder. Retrace route and
Scotland’s kings were crowned. Drive and enjoy a walk by the river, before then take A81 to Inchmahome Priory.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


240-243_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 243 20/07/18 7:24 PM

244-245_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 244 30/03/2017 14:17
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Cardiff
London
London
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Manchester
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Inverness
Inverness
Aberdeen
Aberdeen
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
ENGLAND
Glasgow
Glasgow
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Bristol
Carlisle
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
DRIVE 25 Liverpool SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle WALES SCOTLAND Edinburgh Newcastle
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
On the
Highlands
Whisky Trail
Inverness to
Aberdeen
Highlights
• Fairytale castles
Visit some of Scotland’s finest castles,
including Cawdor, immortalized in
Shakespeare’s Macbeth, and clifftop
Dunnottar Castle, once the keeper of
the Scottish Crown jewels
• Spectacular Speyside
Watch dolphins on the Moray coast,
then follow the River Spey to sample
the finest malt whiskies, made
among the heather-clad hills
• Cities of stone
Explore Inverness, notable for its pink
sandstone buildings by the River Ness,
and historic Aberdeen, the grey
granite city on the North Sea
The wild shoreline of Spey Bay, at the WDCS
Wildlife Centre
244-245_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 245 30/03/2017 14:17

246 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

On the Highlands Whisky Trail

This drive is Scotland distilled: the route runs through a landscape of
brooding mountains and sparkling rivers, dotted with picture-book
castles, barrel-makers and world famous whisky producers. Starting
from Inverness, the drive visits Culloden to see the site of the famous
battle, continues to Cawdor Castle, then heads north to enjoy
some dolphin watching on the Moray coast. Heading south
through Speyside, the home of whisky, visitors get the
chance to taste a dram or two, before travelling back in
time at the Grampian Transport Museum. On reaching
the east coast, there are spectacular craggy cliffs at Lossiemouth Spey Spey
Lossiemouth
Bay Bay
Burghead
Burghead
WDCS
WDCS
Dunnottar Castle, before the drive ends at the Burghead WILDLIFE CENTRE
M o r a y F i r t h h Crook of ELGIN Garmouth Buckie Buckie
WILDLIFE CENTRE
M o r a y F i r t
Burghead
historic granite city of Aberdeen. BayBay Spey Bay
Spey Bay
Findhorn
Findhorn
Crook of
ELGIN
Garmouth
Alves Alves
Kinloss
Lhanbryde
Miltonduff
Whiteness Dyke Dyke Forres Forres Kinloss Miltonduff Lhanbryde
Whiteness
Fochabers
Fortrose
Fortrose Head Head Nairn Nairn Fochabers
PLUSCARDEN
PLUSCARDEN
Inchberry
Rafford
ABBEY
Campbellt
Auldearn
Campbelltownown Auldearn Rafford ABBEY Inchberry
Munlochy
Munlochy
Daroch
Boat o’
Inverness Boat o’ Daroch
Inverness
of Grange
Whitemire
Whitemire BrigBrig of Grange
Fisherton
Fisherton Dallas Dallas
Milltown of
CroyCroy Spey Spey Keith Keith Milltown of
Rothes
Rothiemay
MORA
Balloch Belivat Belivat MORA Y Y Rothes Auchlunkart Rothiemay
Auchlunkart
Balloch
CAWDOR
CAWDOR
CASTLE
INVERNESS CULLODEN CASTLE Fernessness Craigellachie Keith and Dufftowntown Ruthven Inverkeithny
INVERNESS
Inverkeithny
Ruthven
Keith and Duff
CULLODEN
Craigellachie
Fer
Railway
Westhill
Westhill Larig Hill SPEYSIDE COOPERAGE Railway Deveron Deveron
SPEYSIDE COOPERAGE
Larig Hill
Nairn Nairn Dulsie Dulsie 543m 543m Huntly Drumblade Balgaveny
Balgaveny
Huntly
Drumblade
Findhorn
Essich Essich Findhorn DUFFTOWN
DUFFTOWN
HIGHLAND Lochindorb Ben Rinnes ABERDEENSHIRE
HIGHLAND
ABERDEENSHIRE
Ben Rinnes
Lochindorb
Adne Adne 840m 840m
Kirkton of Culsalmond
Kirkton of Culsalmond
Hills of Cromdale
Craggan
LEITH HALL
Craggan
LEITH HALL
Carn Carn Old Old
Tomatin Glas-choire Grantown Cromdale Corryhabbie Hill Rayne Rayne
Cromdale
Tomatin
Grantown
Glas-choire
Avon
Corryhabbie Hill
Oldmeldrum
Bridge of
Rhymie
659m 659m on Spey Spey Spey Hills of Cromdale Avon Bridge of 781m 781m Rhymie Kirkhill of Insch Insch Oldmeldrum
on Spey
Kirkhill of
Achbrech
Achbrech
Kennethmont
Pitcaple
0 kilometres 10 The Buck Kennethmont Pitcaple
The Buck
Auchleven
Whiterashes
Hill of Three Stones 721m 721m Auchleven Chapel of Whiterashes
Hill of Three Stones
Chapel of
Lumsden
629m 629m Lumsden Gariochioch
Gar
0 miles 10 Correen Hills Inverurie
Inverurie
Ladder Hills
Ladder Hills GRAMPIAN TRANSPORT Hatton of
Correen Hills
GRAMPIAN TRANSPORT
Hatton of
MUSEUM
Kirkton of
Kirkton of
Fintray
Kildrummy
Glenbuchat
Below Archway in the pretty Flower Glenbuchat Kildrummy Alford Alford MUSEUM Kemnay Kintore Fintray
Kemnay
Kintore
ACTIVITIES Whitehouse Monymusk Dyce Dyce
Whitehouse
Monymusk
Garden, Cawdor Castle, see p248 Towie Towie Aberdeen
Aberdeen
Bridge of
Sauchen
Tillyfourie
Tillyfourie Sauchen Bridge of
Dunecht
Go on a monster hunt with a boat cruise over the Pressendye Dunecht Bucksburn DonDon
Bucksburn
Pressendye
mysterious depths of Loch Ness 619m 619m Tillybirlochloch Westhill ABERDEEN
Westhill
Tillybir
ABERDEEN
March across a battlefield and see the memorial at EchtEcht Cults Cults
Torphins
the poignant meadows of Culloden Tarlandland Kincardinedine Torphins Peterculter
Tar
Kincar
Peterculter
Cove Bay
O ’Neil O ’Neil Cove Bay
Drumoak
Watch for wildlife at the Whale and Dolphin Dee Dee of Canny Crathes Drumoak Maryculter
Crathes
Bridge Bridge
Maryculter
Castle Castle
of Canny
Aboyne
Conservation Society Wildlife Centre, Spey Bay Aboyne Findon Ness
Findon Ness
BANCHORY
Kirkton of Durris
Portlethen
BANCHORY Kirkton of Durris Portlethen
Newtonhill
Walk along the Speyside Way in Craigellachie Crossroads Newtonhill
Crossroads
Strachan
Strachan
Climb aboard a vintage train on the Keith &
Dufftown Railway Mowtiewtie Garron Pointoint
Mo
Garron P
Bridge Bridge Stonehavenven
Stoneha
Taste a dram or two of single-malt whisky on a of Dye of Dye
DUNNOTTAR
tour of the Glenfiddich Distillery DUNNOTTAR
CASTLE
Drumlithie CASTLE
Drumlithie
Barras Barras
Glenbervie
Enjoy a picnic in the grounds of Leith Hall Glenbervie
Catterline
Catterline
Watch the salmon leaping on the waters of the Feugh
246-247_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 246 20/07/18 7:45 PM

DRIVE 25: On the Highlands Whisky Trail 247


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/Finish: Inverness to Aberdeen.
Number of days: Around 3–4 days,
with half a day in Aberdeen.
Distances: Approx. 291 km (181 miles).
Road conditions: Good roads, liable
to become snowbound in winter.
When to go: This drive is lovely in the
autumn, when the trees are changing
Spey Spey colour. In summer, the roads will be
Lossiemouth
Lossiemouth
Bay Bay
Burghead
Burghead WILDLIFE CENTRE busier – but the weather can be fine
WDCS
WDCS
M o r a y F i r t h h BayBay Crook of ELGIN Garmouth Spey Bay Buckie Buckie Above Peaceful boating pond in the park Opening times: Museums and
M o r a y F i r t
WILDLIFE CENTRE
and the days will be long.
Burghead
Burghead
Spey Bay
Findhorn
Findhorn
Crook of
close to the centre of Elgin, see p249
ELGIN
Garmouth
Alves Alves
attractions are generally open
Kinloss
Lhanbryde
Miltonduff
Whiteness
Whiteness Dyke Dyke Forres Forres Kinloss Miltonduff Lhanbryde 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Fochabers
Fortrose
Fortrose Head Head Nairn Nairn Fochabers closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
PLUSCARDEN KEY are often open longer. Churches are
PLUSCARDEN
Inchberry
Rafford
ABBEY
Auldearn
Campbellt
Campbelltownown Auldearn Rafford ABBEY Inchberry
Munlochy
Munlochy usually open until dusk.
Daroch
Boat o’
Inverness
Inverness Boat o’ Daroch Drive route
Whitemire
of Grange
Whitemire BrigBrig of Grange
Fisherton Dallas Dallas Main market days: Inverness:
Fisherton
Milltown of
CroyCroy Spey Spey Keith Keith Milltown of
Rothiemay
Rothes
MORA
Balloch Belivat Belivat MORA Y Y Rothes Auchlunkart Rothiemay Farmers’ Market, 1st Sat of month;
Auchlunkart
Balloch
CAWDOR
CAWDOR Aberdeen: Farmers’ Market, 1st and
INVERNESS
INVERNESS CULLODEN CASTLE Fernessness Craigellachie Keith and Dufftowntown Ruthven Inverkeithny last Sat of month.
CASTLE
Inverkeithny
Ruthven
Keith and Duff
CULLODEN
Craigellachie
Fer
Railway
Westhill
Westhill Larig Hill SPEYSIDE COOPERAGE Railway Deveron Deveron
SPEYSIDE COOPERAGE
Larig Hill
Nairn Nairn Dulsie Dulsie 543m 543m Huntly Drumblade Balgaveny Shopping: Scottish whisky is famed
Balgaveny
Huntly
Drumblade
Findhorn
Essich Essich Findhorn DUFFTOWN the world over, so take the chance to
DUFFTOWN
HIGHLAND Lochindorb Ben Rinnes ABERDEENSHIRE buy a good-quality single malt here.
HIGHLAND
ABERDEENSHIRE
Ben Rinnes
Lochindorb
Adne Adne 840m 840m Look out for excellent jams, tablet (the
Kirkton of Culsalmond
Kirkton of Culsalmond Scottish version of fudge) and buttery
Hills of Cromdale Corryhabbie Hill
Hills of Cromdale
LEITH HALL
Craggan
LEITH HALL
Craggan
Carn Carn Old Old shortbread, too.
Cromdale
Tomatin
Tomatin Glas-choire Grantown Cromdale Rayne Rayne
Glas-choire
Grantown
Corryhabbie Hill
Oldmeldrum
Bridge of
659m 659m on Spey Spey Spey Avon Avon Bridge of 781m 781m Rhymie Kirkhill of Insch Insch Pitcaple Oldmeldrum Main festivals: Inverness: Highland
Rhymie
on Spey
Kirkhill of
Achbrech
Achbrech
Kennethmont
Pitcaple
Kennethmont
The Buck
Whisky Festival, May; Dunnottar Castle:
Auchleven
Whiterashes
Hill of Three Stones The Buck Auchleven Chapel of Whiterashes Games, Jul; Dufftown: Spirit of Speyside
Hill of Three Stones
721m 721m
Chapel of
Lumsden
629m 629m Lumsden Gariochioch Inverurie Stonehaven Folk Festival, Jul;
Gar
Inverurie
Ladder Hills
Ladder Hills GRAMPIAN TRANSPORT Hatton of Stonehaven Fireballs Ceremony, Dec;
Correen Hills
Correen Hills
GRAMPIAN TRANSPORT
Hatton of
Aberdeen: Highland Games, Jun.
Kirkton of
MUSEUM
Kirkton of
Fintray
Kildrummy
Glenbuchat Kildrummy Alford Alford MUSEUM Kemnay Kintore Fintray
Glenbuchat
Kemnay
Kintore
Whitehouse
Whitehouse Monymusk Dyce Dyce
Monymusk
Towie Towie Aberdeen
Aberdeen
Bridge of
Sauchen
Tillyfourie Sauchen Bridge of
Tillyfourie
Dunecht
Dunecht DonDon DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Bucksburn
Pressendye
Pressendye Bucksburn
619m 619m Tillybirlochloch Westhill ABERDEEN History lovers will enjoy the cathedral
Westhill
Tillybir
ABERDEEN
EchtEcht Cults Cults and museum at Inverness, before
Torphins
Tar
Tarlandland Kincardinedine Torphins Peterculter walking on Culloden battlefield and
Kincar
Peterculter
Cove Bay
O ’Neil O ’Neil Cove Bay exploring the dungeons at Cawdor
Drumoak
Maryculter
Bridge Bridge Crathes Drumoak Maryculter
Crathes
Dee Dee Castle. Finish the day at Nairn on its
of Canny
Aboyne of Canny Castle Castle Findon Ness
Aboyne
Findon Ness
BANCHORY
Portlethen
Kirkton of Durris
BANCHORY Kirkton of Durris Portlethen sandy beach. Whisky buffs should stay
Newtonhill
Crossroads
Crossroads Newtonhill at Craigellachie, watch dolphins in Spey
Bay and see coopers at work at Speyside
Strachan
Strachan
Cooperage. End the day with a visit to
Mowtiewtie Garron Pointoint Dufftown to taste whisky and ride on a
Mo
Garron P
Bridge Bridge Stonehavenven heritage train. Staying at Aberdeen, visit
Stoneha
of Dye of Dye
DUNNOTTAR the transport museum at Alford, the
DUNNOTTAR
CASTLE
Drumlithie CASTLE waterfalls and castle at Banchory, and
Drumlithie
Barras Barras
Glenbervie
Glenbervie the cliffside castle at Dunnottar, then
Catterline
Catterline return for Aberdeen’s beach funfair.
For full details, see p253.
246-247_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 247 20/07/18 7:45 PM

248 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


1 Inverness hand accounts from those involved
Highland; IV1 in the events. Visitors can also walk
Sitting serenely on the River Ness, the battlefield for a soldier’s-eye view.
Inverness is acknowledged as the ª Continue on B9006, bearing right
capital of the Highlands. The river is onto B9091. Turn right onto B9090 to
flanked on one side by a substantial Cawdor Castle.
pink stone castle, built in the 19th
century on the site of a much earlier The Mystery of Loch Ness
structure destroyed by the Jacobite
army after 1746. On the other side Stories of a monster lurking in Loch
Ness date back to St Columba, who
stands Inverness Cathedral, with some is said to have saved a man from the
fine stained-glass windows. The City beast. However, modern sightings
Museum (open Mon–Sat) contains a started in 1933, when a creature
variety of items associated with the with a long neck was reported in the
Highlands. Visitors can also enjoy a loch. Murky photographs and film of
cruise on Loch Ness (www.jacobite.co.uk) the creature have appeared: many
consider them to be hoaxes, others
and learn more about Loch Ness are sure that Nessie exists. Scientific
Above St Mary’s Catholic Church by the River wildlife including, of course, the expeditions have been unable to find
Ness, Inverness mythical monster. Buses to the boats the beast, and the mystery lingers on.
leave from Inverness Bus Station.
ª From Rose Street car park drive
VISITING INVERNESS onto A82 roundabout, turning right, 3 Cawdor Castle
Parking then join A9 south for a short distance, Cawdor, Nairn; IV12 5RD;
For long-term parking close to the turning left on B9006. The Culloden Although Cawdor Castle’s (May–Sep:
castle try the Rose Street car park, Visitor Centre is just off the road and open daily; www.cawdorcastle.com) only
off A82/B865.
clearly signposted; there is a car park. associations with the real Macbeth
Tourist Information were in Shakespeare’s imagination,
36 High Street, IV1 1JQ; 01463 2 Culloden that does not lessen its appeal. It was
252 401
Culloden Moor, Inverness; IV2 5EU built in the late 14th century, long
The wind never seems to stop blowing after Macbeth had died, and retains
WHERE TO STAY across the bleak expanse of Culloden a medieval feel with stone staircases,
Moor where, on 16 April 1746, the last atmospheric passageways and a dun-
INVERNESS battle of the Jacobite Risings took geon. It is still home to the Cawdor
Trafford Bank Guest House moderate place. It lasted only an hour, but family and photos mingle with
Enjoy chic, designer rooms at this 5-star heralded the end of the distinctive Flemish tapestries, four-poster beds
B&B. There are features such as Victorian
roll-top baths, DVD players and luxury clan system, bringing many changes and artworks by Landseer and Edward
toiletries – and sherry decanters. to Highland Scotland. The excellent Lear. There are several colourful gar-
96 Fairfield Road, IV3 5LL; 01463 241 414; Visitor Centre (open daily; www.nts.org. dens – Walled, Flower and Wild – which
www.traffordbankguesthouse.co.uk uk ) gives the historical context to the are delightful places to explore.
Rocpool expensive battle, together with memorabilia ª Continue on B9090 to Nairn
This boutique hotel offers luxurious such as Jacobite medals and first- (consider a detour to the beach).
rooms and a high-end French bistro
endorsed by Albert Roux. Below The imposing west towers of Gothic Inverness Cathedral, built in 1866
Culduthel Road, IV2 4AG; 01463 240
089; www.rocpool.com
AROUND CAWDOR CASTLE
Sunny Brae Hotel moderate
Follow B9090 to the seafront in
Nairn for comfortable en-suite rooms,
some with views of the Moray Firth,
a restaurant, and an attractive guest
lounge with a sea view.
Marine Road, Nairn, IV12 4EA; 01667
452 309; www.sunnybraehotel.com
AROUND ELGIN
The Old Mill Inn inexpensive
Classic country pub in a village some
5 km (3 miles) west of Forres, offering
simple, antique furnished rooms, great
breakfasts and a choice of inexpensive
bar food or fine-dining later on.
7 Brodie, Forres, IV36 2TD; 01309 641
605; www.oldmillinnbrodie.com



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