(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

DRIVE 3




Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Exeter
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Plymouth


North Devon

Coast and

Exmoor
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Taunton to Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES WALES WALES WALES WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Barnstaple
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Highlights
• Historic steam-train ride
Take a trip back in time through the
lovely, rolling countryside on the
preserved West Somerset Railway
• Exmoor and its outlaws
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Liverpool Explore exhilarating moorland Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
scenery and learn the legend of the
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
17th-century outlaws, the Doone family
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Bristol London • Coastal pleasures Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff
Relax on swathes of golden sand or
be awed by cliffs and crashing waves
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
along the South West Coast Path
• Market bound
Discover the rich heritage of historic
market towns such as Taunton,
Dunster and Barnstaple
The South West Coast Path and spectacular
coastline on the way to Morte Point, Devon
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
048-049_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 49 30/03/2017 14:15 Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Edinburgh
Bristol
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND










Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

50 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

North Devon Coast and Exmoor

The countryside of Somerset and North Devon is as varied as any in Europe.
Secluded coves, sand dunes and wide sandy beaches, washed by powerful
Atlantic waves, make the area a top choice for beach lovers – families and
surfers alike. The windswept moorlands of Exmoor National Park are bordered
by grassy clifftops that run along the dramatic coastline. Here and there a
patchwork of fields covers gently rolling hillsides dotted with thick woods
and crossed by clean and swift-flowing streams. The interior has plenty of
small towns and pretty villages. All of this route lies in prime walking country,
with spectacular coastal paths and a network of trails inland.
KEY
0 kilometres 5 Drive route
0 miles 5
Foreland Pointoint
Foreland P
Heddon’ LYNMOUTH
Heddon’ss
LYNMOUTH
Mouth
Combe
Combe Mouth Coun Countisburytisbury
Martin
Hele Hele Martin Mar Martinhoetinhoe Lynt Lyntonon
SELWORTHY
Bay Bay Bay Bay Brendon Malmsmead SELWORTHY
Malmsmead
Brendon
Combe
Ilfracombe Combe
Ilfracombe
Minehead
MORTEHOE Berr Berrynarborynarbor Mar Martintin OARE Porlock Minehead Br Br idgwateridgwater
MORTEHOE
Porlock
OARE
Mor Mortete Parr Parracombeacombe
B ay
Wooton
Point Point Wooton B ay
Courtney
Luccombe
Trimstone Blackmoor Gate Luccombe Courtney Watchet Stogursey
Trimstone
Stogursey
Watchet
Blackmoor Gate
Kentisbury
WOOLACOMBE
WOOLACOMBE Kentisbury DUNSTER Carhampton West West
Carhampton
DUNSTER
Bittadon
Challacombe
Quantoxhead
West West Bittadon Ford Ford Challacombe Dunk Dunkery Beaconery Beacon Quantoxhead
Williton
Down Exmoor 519m 519m Williton Nether
Down
Nether
Exmoor
ARLINGTON COURT &
Stowey
Croydee
Croyd Geor Georgehamgeham ARLINGTON COURT & Cutcombe WASHFORD Bicknoller Stowey
WASHFORD
NATIONAL TRUST CARRIAGE
NATIONAL TRUST CARRIAGE
Bicknoller
Cutcombe
Cannington
Simonsbath
MUSEUM
Lobb Lobb MUSEUM Simonsbath Exfor Exfordd Wheddon Quantock Cannington
Wheddon
Leworthy
Muddif Leworthy Cross Cross Quantock Hills
Muddifordord
National P ar kar k
Monksilver
Saun Sauntonton Braunton Shirwell Bratton National P Monksilver Crowcombe
Braunton
Shirwell Bratton
Treborough
Fleming
Ashford
Ashford Fleming With Withypoolypool Treborough Crowcombe Hills
Elworthy
Brayford
Brayford Elworthy
Stoke Stoke
BRAUNTON Rivers Winsf Winsfordord B r e n d o n H i l l s West Bagborough
BRAUNTON
Rivers
West Bagborough
B r e n d o n H i l l s
BURROWS
BARNSTAPLE
BURROWS Fremingt BARNSTAPLE High Bray Exton Brompton Clatw Clatworthyorthy St Lawrence
High Bray
Exton
St Lawrence
Fremingtonon
Brompton
Broomfield
DEV O N East Buckland Regis Regis Wimb Reser Reservoirvoir Broomfield
DEV O N East Buckland
Wimbleballleball
Clatworthy
North
Appledoree
Appledor Insto Instoww Bishop’s North River Exe River Exe Reser Reservoirvoir Clatworthy Bishop’s
Bishop’s
Molton
Bishop’s
Molton
SO M ERSETM ERSET
Lydeard
Kingston
Tawton SO Lydeard Kingston
Tawton
Upton
Wiveliscombe
Dulverton
Dulverton Upton Wiveliscombe
Vale of Taunton DeaneTaunton Deane
River Taw
River Taw
Loveacott
Loveacott Vale of
Milverton
Milverton
Alverdiscott Oake Oake
Alverdiscott
Bathealton TAUNT
Bathealton
TAUNTONON
Stawley
Stawley
Below The Museum of Barnstaple and North
Devon, Barnstaple, see p55 Wellingt West Buckland
Wellingtonon
West Buckland
ACTIVITIES
Catch a vintage steam train through the Somerset
countryside from Washford
Indulge in a Devon cream tea – soft scones topped with
thick clotted cream and fruity strawberry jam
Explore Exmoor on foot and enjoy outstanding views from
Dunkery Beacon, its highest point
Cycle along the scenic Tarka Trail, part of Cycle Route 27
which runs from Ilfracombe to Barnstaple
Ride the wild Atlantic rollers at Woolacombe Bay by hiring
a wet suit and body board
Go bargain-hunting for crafts and antiques in Barnstaple’s
airy and atmospheric Pannier Market
050-051_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 50 20/07/18 7:46 PM

DRIVE 3: North Devon Coast and Exmoor 51


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Taunton to Barnstaple.
Number of days: 2–3 days.
Distance: 134 km (84 miles).
Road conditions: Well-paved and
signposted, country roads are often
narrow and winding. Be prepared
to stop in a passing place if there is
oncoming traffic. On Exmoor, watch
out for ponies or sheep on the road.
Most places have well-signed car
parks, usually pay-and-display.
When to go: In April–May, wild flowers
border the roadsides; autumn sees the
Foreland P
Foreland Pointoint
Heddon’ss
Heddon’ LYNMOUTH leaves turn rich brown and the moors
LYNMOUTH
Mouth
Combe
Combe Mouth Coun Countisburytisbury Above Beautiful Woolacombe Bay – a wide, sandy beach with great surf, see p55 are splashed with purple heather.
Hele Hele Martin Mar Martinhoetinhoe Lynt Lyntonon
Martin
SELWORTHY
Bay Bay Bay Bay Brendon Malmsmead SELWORTHY During July and August, families crowd
Malmsmead
Brendon
Combe
Ilfracombe
Ilfracombe Combe into the area for seaside holidays. It can
Minehead
MORTEHOE Berr Berrynarborynarbor Mar Martintin OARE Porlock Minehead Br Br idgwateridgwater get very busy. In winter, the weather is
MORTEHOE
Porlock
OARE
Mor Mortete Parr Parracombeacombe often relatively mild and towns return
Bay
Wooton
Point Point Wooton Bay
Luccombe
Courtney
Trimstone
Trimstone Blackmoor Gate Luccombe Courtney Watchet Stogursey to “normal”, but villages can be quiet.
Watchet
Stogursey
Blackmoor Gate
Kentisbury
WOOLACOMBE Kentisbury DUNSTER Carhampton West West
WOOLACOMBE
Carhampton
DUNSTER
Bittadon
Challacombe
West West Bittadon Ford Ford Challacombe Dunk Dunkery Beaconery Beacon Quantoxhead Opening times: Museums and
Quantoxhead
Williton
Down Exmoor 519m 519m Williton Nether attractions are generally open
Down
Exmoor
Nether
ARLINGTON COURT &
Stowey
Croyd Geor Georgehamgeham ARLINGTON COURT & Cutcombe WASHFORD Bicknoller Stowey 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Croydee
WASHFORD
Cutcombe
NATIONAL TRUST CARRIAGE
NATIONAL TRUST CARRIAGE
Bicknoller
Cannington
Simonsbath
MUSEUM
Lobb Lobb MUSEUM Simonsbath Exfor Exfordd Wheddon Quantock Cannington
Wheddon
Leworthy
Muddif Leworthy Cross Cross Quantock Hills closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
Muddifordord
National P ar kar k
Monksilver
Saun Sauntonton Braunton Shirwell Bratton National P Monksilver Crowcombe are often open longer. Churches are
Braunton
Shirwell Bratton
Treborough
Fleming
Ashford
Ashford Fleming With Withypoolypool Treborough Crowcombe Hills usually open until dusk.
Elworthy
Brayford
Brayford Elworthy
Stoke Stoke
BRAUNTON
BRAUNTON Rivers Winsf Winsfordord B r e n d o n H i l l s West Bagborough Market days: Taunton: Farmer’s
Rivers
West Bagborough
B r e n d o n H i l l s
BURROWS Fremingt BARNSTAPLE High Bray Exton Brompton Clatw Clatworthyorthy St Lawrence
BURROWS
BARNSTAPLE
Exton
High Bray
St Lawrence
Fremingtonon
Brompton
Broomfield
DEV O N East Buckland Regis Regis Wimb Reser Reservoirvoir Broomfield Market, Thu; Barnstaple: Pannier
DEV O N East Buckland
Wimbleballleball
North
Clatworthy
Appledoree
Appledor Insto Instoww Bishop’s North River Exe River Exe Reser Reservoirvoir Clatworthy Bishop’s Market: local produce, Tue, Fri, Sat;
Bishop’s
Bishop’s
Molton
Molton
SO M ERSETM ERSET
Lydeard
Kingston
Tawton SO Lydeard Kingston antiques and books, Wed; also crafts,
Tawton
Apr–Dec Mon & Thu.
Upton
Wiveliscombe
Dulverton
Dulverton Upton Wiveliscombe
Vale of Taunton DeaneTaunton Deane
River Taw
River Taw
Loveacott
Loveacott Vale of Shopping: Look out for Devonshire
Milverton
Milverton
Alverdiscott
Alverdiscott Oake Oake clotted cream, local cider, surfing gear
and beachwear.
Bathealton
Bathealton TAUNT
TAUNTONON
Stawley Major festivals: Taunton: Carnival,
Stawley
Wellingtonon
Wellingt West Buckland Oct; Exmoor: Walking Festival, May;
West Buckland
Mortehoe: Scarecrow Festival, Aug;
Below Pretty Periwinkle Tearoom, Barnstaple: North Devon Food
Selworthy, see p53 Festival, Oct.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Beach lovers can enjoy the golden
sands and surging surf at
Woolacombe Bay before tucking into
a Devon cream tea. Walkers can
explore the windswept expanses
and hidden valleys of Exmoor,
home of the legendary outlaws, the
Doones. From Taunton and Washford,
step back in time by visiting ancient
churches, an abbey and a restored
steam train. For full details, see p55.
050-051_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 51 20/07/18 7:46 PM

52 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING TAUNTON
1 Taunton
Parking Somerset; TA1 3XZ
Park in the car park near the bus station. This county town, in
Tourist Information the heart of apple and
Fore Street, TA1 1JD; 01823 340 470; cider country is centred
www.visitsomerset.co.uk around its triangular
VISITING EXMOOR former market place,
Fore Street. The cattle
Exmoor National Park Centre market moved to the
For more information about Exmoor outskirts in 1929, but
National Park including walks, events the 200-year-old red
and activities: open Mar–Oct.
Dunster Steep, Minehead, TA24 brick Market House
6SE; 01643 821 835; www.exmoor- still dominates. Parts
nationalpark.gov.uk of 12th-century
Taunton Castle survive,
now home to the Above One of the gatehouses of the impressive
WHERE TO STAY
Museum of Somerset (open Tue–Sat). Dunster Castle, Dunster
Nearby in Hammet Street, the richly
TAUNTON sculptured tower of St Mary track offering trips in veteran carriages
The Castle expensive Magdelene Church, founded 1308, often hauled by steam locomotives.
This wisteria-covered family-run hotel
in the town centre provides historic soars up 50 m (163 ft) and is a ª Turn left out of car park onto B3188,
accommodation. It also has a brasserie landmark visible for miles. then left onto A39 towards Minehead,
and a restaurant. ª Turn left out of the car park along turning left into Dunster. Car parks just
Castle Green, TA1 1NF; 01823 272 671; Corporation Street, left at roundabout off the A39 and in the castle grounds.
www.the-castle-hotel.com
on to North Street (A3207) and left on
DUNSTER to A358 out of town; take B3224 left 3 Dunster
Luttrell Arms expensive just after Bishop’s Lydeard, then B3188 Somerset; TA24 6SL
Small 15th-century hotel facing the Yarn right to Washford. Park at Cleeve Abbey The quaint 400-year-old open-sided
Market. Used in medieval times as a car park, on left as you enter village. octagonal Yarn Market is a reminder
guesthouse by the Abbots of Cleeve, it
has several rooms with four-poster beds. of the village’s once-thriving wool
32–6 High Street, TA24 6SG; 01643 2 Washford industry. The nearby Doll Collection
821 555; www.luttrellarms.co.uk Somerset; TA23 0PS (open daily Apr–Sep), displays ancient
Cleeve Abbey (open daily Apr–Oct), and modern dolls. Turreted Norman-
LYNMOUTH founded by Cistercian monks in 1188, style Dunster Castle (open daily Mar–
Rock House Hotel moderate is the most complete set of monastic Oct), was home of the Luttrell family
Family-run small hotel in 18th-century
building at the harbour entrance. It cloister buildings in England, including for 600 years until 1976. Perched on a
has a cosy restaurant with sea views. a gatehouse, small chapel, dormitory hilltop and surrounded by terraced
Manor Green, EX35 6EN; 01598 753 and large 15th-century refectory with gardens, it was extensively remodelled
508; www.rock-house.co.uk an arched wooden ceiling known as a in Victorian times. Dunster is a good
waggon roof. Washford is also on the base for visiting Exmoor.
Below left The 15th-century Luttrell Arms West Somerset Railway (daily mid- ª Continue on A39 past Minehead
Hotel, Dunster Below right One of the Mar–Oct; www.west-somerset-railway. until Selworthy is signposted off to the
pristine, tidily thatched cottages of Selworthy co.uk), a 32-km (20-mile) stretch of right. Park opposite the church.






















052-055_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 52 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 3: North Devon Coast and Exmoor 53


4 Selworthy The Story of Lorna Doone
Somerset; TA24 8TJ Stories of an outlaw family, the
This is a picture-postcard hamlet of Doones, who terrorized Exmoor in
thatched cottages with a splendid the 17th century fired the fertile
view over the Vale of Porlock and a imagination of local author RD
white 14th-century Perpendicular Blackmore. In his 1869 novel Lorna
Doone, he tells the story of John
church framed by woods. It is part of Ridd, an Oare farmer who falls in love
the Holnicote Estate which extends with the Doones’ adopted daughter,
from Porlock Bay to Dunkery Hill on Lorna. He vividly describes the
Exmoor, its spectacular moorland countryside, disguising many of the
dotted with woods and medieval real locations. Today, leafy footpaths
run from Oare and Malmsmead to
villages. Home to wild ponies and the so-called Doone Valley. Beyond
horned sheep, the moor is criss- Blackmore Memorial by Badgworthy
crossed by footpaths. On the way to Water, look out for Lank Combe Above Pretty harbour town of Lynmouth,
Oare, Dunkery Beacon is the highest Water – was this the secret waterfall rebuilt after the flood of 1952
point on Exmoor (519 m/1,260 ft), that John Ridd climbed?
with extensive views in all directions. EAT AND DRINK
ª From Selworthy, take A39 towards daily mid-Feb–Oct). Lynton is a small
Porlock, turning left at sign for West town looking out to sea with a pretty TAUNTON
Luccombe, then right at sign for Dunkery church, which has a Norman font and Willow Tree moderate
Beacon. Return to A39, forking right at a 13th-century tower. Housed in a 300-year-old building,
Porlock onto New Road (toll) to avoid ª Take B3234 to Lynton, then A39 and noted for its imaginative dishes.
very steep Porlock Hill. Rejoin A39. Turn (signed Barnstaple). Turn left on a 3 Tower Lane, TA1 4AR; 01823 352 835;
www.thewillowtree restaurant.com;
left at sign for Doone Valley after 1 km minor road (signed) for Arlington Court open eves Tue, Wed, Fri & Sat; booking
(half a mile). Follow road to Oare. 1.5 km (1 mile) after Kentisbury Ford. essential
5 Oare 7 Arlington Court and the SELWORTHY
Somerset; EX35 6NU National Trust Carriage Periwinkle Tearoom moderate
This 17th-century thatched cottage
Oare’s diminutive grey stone church, in Museum is perfect for a cream tea or snack.
a quiet valley overlooking Oare Water, Arlington, Parracombe; Devon; EX31 4LP Selworthy Green, TA24 8TP; 01643
was the setting in R D Blackmore’s This Regency house (open daily Mar– 829 111; www.periwinkletearooms.
famous story, Lorna Doone, for the Oct; 01271 850 296; www.nationaltrust. co.uk; open daily
heroine’s wedding to John Ridd; org.uk) is packed with treasures. The AROUND SELWORTHY
18th-century box pews lead to the stables in the Deer Park house over Piggy in the Middle moderate
altar where the ceremony was 50 horse-drawn carriages; rides are Small family-run restaurant specializing
interrupted by a gun shot. A plaque available most days. in fish and chips, and pies.
by the oak door commemorates the ª Return to Kentisbury Ford on A39, 2 High Street, TA24 8PS (4 km/
author who brought the area fame. turn left on B3229 and follow signs to 2.5 miles on A39 from Selworthy);
01643 862 647; open Mon–Sat
ª Go through Malmsmead and Ilfracombe on A399. Take A361 out evenings and Sat lunch
Brendon to rejoin A39 towards of town, turn right onto B3343 and
Lynmouth. Follow signs to town follow signs to Mortehoe on minor Below A carriage ride at Arlington Court and
car parks. road to right. Park in the village. the National Trust Carriage Museum
6 Lynmouth
Devon; EX35 6EQ
Picturesquely set at the foot of the
wooded valleys of the East and West
Lyn rivers, this former herring fishing
village is best known for the terrible
flood in August 1952. After torrential
rain, flash floods washed away the
harbour and nearby houses, killing
34 people. The Flood Memorial Hall
commemorates the disaster with a
scale model of the village as it was.
From the seafront, an ingenious water-
powered cliff railway, opened in 1888,
glides 263 m (862 ft) up a steep track
to Lynton – an exciting two-minute
ride with fabulous coastal views (open
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


052-055_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 53 20/07/18 7:25 PM

54 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

8 Mortehoe
Devon; EX34 7DT
This is one of the most spectacular stretches of the South West
Coast Path, England’s longest National Trail. A footpath leads along
the clifftops from Mortehoe over grassy slopes to Morte Point. In the
ancient village of Mortehoe, mentioned in the Domesday Book, a
handful of pubs and tearooms cluster around the picturesque
13th-century St Mary’s Church, and just around a headland
is the golden sandy beach of Woolacombe.
Above St Mary’s Church, Mortehoe, with A two-hour clifftop walk headland, Baggy Point, and beyond.
graves of shipwrecked sailors Start at the pay-and-display car park at Lundy Island is visible out to sea
the end of Station Road and visit the 27 km (17 miles) away and the South
VISITING BARNSTAPLE Mortehoe Museum 1 (open Easter– Wales coast is just discernible. Walk
Oct: Tue–Thu, Sat–Sun; also Jul–Aug: Mon) along the clifftop towards Morte
Parking to learn about the history of the area. Point, watching the waves crash
Green Lanes Shopping Centre, Exit the car park, turn left towards onto jagged slate rocks. Just past the
Boutport Street, EX31 1UL. the church passing the Post Office aptly named Windy Cove 3, sticking
Tourist Information and Village Store – good for provisions. out of the sea, is Morte Stone (Death
The Square, EX32 8LN; 01271 346 747; Go through the Victorian lych gate Stone), a reminder of the dangers of
www.staynorthdevon.co.uk for a look inside St Mary’s Church 2. the rocky reef. In the winter of 1852,
Though the entrance porch dates five ships were sadly lost off this
WHERE TO STAY from around 1500, the barrel-roofed most treacherous coast. Continue
nave and chancel were built during to Morte Point 4 itself, and rest on
MORTEHOE the 13th century. The square belfry, one of the white boulders to admire
Town Farmhouse inexpensive which houses six bells, dates from the seascape – look out for seals
Former farm B&B opposite the church. 1275. Much of the decoration is on the rocks below. Follow the path
EX34 7DT; 01271 870 204; www.
townfarmhouse.co.uk; open Mar–Oct Victorian; the pretty stained-glass around the point to go eastwards.
windows were re-glazed at this time. Turn inland at the sign to Mortehoe
WOOLACOMBE To the right of the church a sign and return via a wide grassy path. For
Woolacombe Bay expensive points to the coastal path. Walk to a short detour, walk up to the 137-m
Large seafront hotel overlooking the the left of the village cemetery along (450-ft) viewpoint (signed on left)
beach with plenty of sporting facilities.
EX34 7BN; 01271 870 388; www. the path fringed with bracken and and the megalithic tomb, known as
woolacombe-bay-hotel.co.uk gorse. Over a sheep-dotted hillside, the Cromlech, nearby. Finally, retrace
the path drops sharply down to a your steps back to the village for a
BARNSTAPLE stream where it meets the 1,000-km cream tea or a glass of heady local
Royal & Fortescue Hotel moderate (630-mile) South West Coast Path scrumpy cider.
Former coaching inn, centrally situated,
with restaurant, bistro and cafe-bar. running along the clifftop. ª Follow signs along a narrow seaside
Boutport Street, EX31 1HG; 01271 342 There are views past Woolacombe road to Woolacombe and park in the
289; www.royalfortescue.co.uk south across Morte Bay to the next beach car park.
Below The road down to lovely Woolacombe Bay,
0 metres 500
Rockham North Devon
0 yards 500 Bay

Windy
Cove
NORTH MOR T E R OAD
Morte Morte
Stone Point
St Mary’s
Church MORTEHOE STATION RD
Mortehoe
Museum
Grunta Beach


Barricane Beach

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–150; expensive, over £150


052-055_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 54 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 3: North Devon Coast and Exmoor 55




















Above right The wooden-framed Pannier
9 Woolacombe skylarks and curlews can often be Market (1855), Barnstaple Left South West
Devon; EX34 7DL seen flying overhead. The site of Coast Path on the way to Mortehoe, Devon
Woolacombe’s beach, which stretches practice beach landings during World
for nearly 5 km (3 miles), is regularly War II, the dunes are still used by the EAT AND DRINK
voted one of the world’s best. Backed army for 10 days a year.
by dunes and washed by Atlantic ª Return on the same road, but take MORTEHOE
waves, the beach attracts surfers first right (unmarked narrow road) to Chichester Arms inexpensive
year round. Nick Thorn Surf School join A361 to Barnstaple. Park in Green Next to the church, this 16th-century
(www.nickthorn.com) offers lessons. Lanes Shopping Centre (signposted). pub was once the vicarage. It serves
Clamber over rocks at the north end good ales and food with a beer garden.
to Barricane Beach to hunt for shells q Barnstaple EX34 7DU; 01271 870 411; www.
washed here from the Caribbean. Devon; EX32 8LN chichesterarmsmortehoe.co.uk
Above the beach is a memorial to The town’s fortunes as a sea port have AROUND MORTEHOE
American forces who trained there declined since its heyday in the 18th The Quay expensive
for the D-Day landings in 1944. century but Barnstaple’s market still Artist Damien Hirst’s fish restaurant has
ª Follow signs along minor roads to bustles with life in the 150-year-old dining rooms facing harbour and sea.
Croyde. Then take B3231 towards timber-framed Pannier Market (open Take B3343 and turn left on A361 to
Braunton, turning right (opposite sign Mon–Sat). Nearby on Cross Street, the Ilfracombe; 11 The Quay, EX34 9EQ;
01271 868 090; www.11thequay.com
to Lobb) onto a narrow road to Antiques and Collectors Centre (closed
Braunton Burrows car park. Sun) is like an Aladdin’s cave crammed WOOLACOMBE
into a former church. On the riverside Red Barn inexpensive
0 Braunton Burrows Strand is the Museum of Barnstaple Lively bar-restaurant near the beach,
Braunton; EX33 2NU and North Devon (closed Sun) with an popular with surfers and families.
The Esplanade, EX34 7DF; 01271 870
Behind Saunton Sands, Braunton eccentric collection of local archae- 264; www.redbarnwoolacombe.co.uk
Burrows is the largest area of sand ology, natural history and crafts. The
dunes in England, stretching 6.5 km best views of the scenic Taw Estuary AROUND BRAUNTON BURROWS
(4 miles). With 500 species of wild can be enjoyed by cycling the Tarka Squire’s Fish Restaurant moderate
flowers and 33 of butterflies, the area Trail, along a stretch of old railway Best place in the area for classic fish and
is a SSSI (Site of Special Scientific track. Hire bikes from Tarka Trail chips – large portions and top quality.
Exeter Road, Braunton, EX33 2JL;
Interest) and part of North Devon’s Cycle Hire (The Railway Station; 01271 01271 815 533; www.squiresfish
UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Kestrels, 324 202; www.tarkabikes.co.uk). restaurant.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take the A358 north from Taunton and parks, off the A361, then follow signs to
There is a variety of great days out then left on the A39 to Washford. Mortehoe and park in the village.
based all around Exmoor.
Beaches and Coastal Trails Lorna Doone Country
West Somerset Railway Work up an appetite building sand- Visit the castle at Dunster 3, then
Start at Taunton 1 to see St Mary’s castles at Woolacombe 9, hike the climb Dunkery Beacon for views of
Church; then it’s on to Washford 2 South West Coast Path at Mortehoe Exmoor and follow the Lorna Doone
to visit Cleeve Abbey, before taking 8 and then indulge in a cream tea. Trail from Oare 5.
a trip on this preserved railway line Follow the B3343 to Woolacombe’s car Dunster and Oare are both off the A39.
through the Somerset countryside.





052-055_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 55 20/07/18 7:25 PM

056-057_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 56 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 4




Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Exeter
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Plymouth


Hardy Country

and the

Jurassic Coast
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND
Birmingham
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham Swanage to WALES Birmingham
WALES
Sherborne
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Highlights

• Rolling Dorset hills
Meander through Dorset’s inland hills
and valleys, adorned with giant chalk
figures and medieval castles
• Dinosaur coast
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Admire the striking formations of Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
Durdle Door, Chesil Beach and fossil-
E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND
rich Purbeck and Portland
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
• Thomas Hardy’s home town
Cardiff Bristol Bristol Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London Cardiff London Cardiff London Explore Thomas Hardy’s Dorchester London
and the remnants of its Roman and
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
prehistoric past
• Ancient abbeys and churches
Marvel at the medieval craftsmanship
of tiny churches and the inspiring fan-
vaulting of Sherborne Abbey
Spectacular Durdle Door and Bay with the
chalk cliffs of the Jurassic Coast
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Inverness Inverness
E NGLAND E NGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
E NGLAND 056-057_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 57 20/07/18 7:44 PM
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Bristol
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
E NGLAND E NGLAND










Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND E NGLAND

58 BACK ROADS OF GREAT BRITAIN

Hardy Country and the Jurassic Coast

Dorset is one of England’s comeliest counties, renowned
for its soft, undulating hills and cliff-backed coastline.
There are few conurbations to blot the landscape, Poyn Poyntingtontington Milbor
Milbornene
instead gentle sheep-speckled slopes and mellow Obor Obornene Port Port
green prospects soothe the traveller’s eye. The past Sherborne O
Sherborne Old Castleld Castle
looms large here, from the fossil-rich Jurassic Coast SHERBORNE
SHERBORNE
to Ancient British sites, and from Roman remains to Sherborne
Sherborne
Castle
Castle
medieval monuments. Literary types know the Nor Northth
Woottonon
Woott
Bishop’s’s
region for its associations with Thomas Hardy Long Long Bishop
Candle
Candle
Burt
Burtonon
Lillingtonon
and his works, in which it appears as “Wessex”, Lillingt o o r r
while Hardy’s own town of Dorchester B l a c k m o o Kingsley
B l a c k m
Kingsley
(“Casterbridge”) offers plenty of entertainment
Woottonon
Haselburyy
for children and adults alike. Leigh Leigh Woott Pulham Haselbur
Glanvilleville
Glan
Bryan
Bryan
Pulham
Chetnole
Chetnole
Hermitage
Hermitage
Mappo
Mappowderwder
Buck Bucklandland
Newt Newtonon
Min Minterneterne
Batc Batcombeombe Mag Magnana
Hilton
Alton Alton Hilton
Frome
Frome Paner Panerasas Hartf Hartfootoot
St Quintintin
St Quin Lane Lane
Cerne Abbas Plush Plush
Cerne Abbas
Giant Giant
CERNE ABBAS
CERNE ABBAS
Cheselbournene
Piddletrenthideenthide
Cattist Piddletr Cheselbour Winterborne
Cattistockock
Winterborne
Sydling Whitchurch
Sydling
Whitchurch
St N St Nicholasicholas
Dewlish
Dewlish
Winterborne
Maiden Newt Godmanst Piddlehin Milbor Winterborne
Maiden Newtonon
Godmanstoneone
Kingston
Kingston
Piddlehintonton
Milbornene
Winterborne
DORSET Stileham Winterborne
DORSET
Stileham
Zelstone
Zelstone
Porthleven
Wynf Wynfordord Bere Regis Morden Porthleven
Bere Regis
Morden
Lytehett
Eagle Eagle Frampt Puddletown Bloxworth Lytehett
Puddletown
Framptonon
Bloxworth
Matravers
Matravers
Turner’s
Turner’s
Compt Char Charminsterminster Hardy Hardy’s’s Puddle
Comptonon
Puddle
Valencee
Lytchett
Above Traditional English seaside Askersw Valenc Bradf Bradfordord Cottage Tinclet Lytchett Upt Uptonon
Askerswellell
Cottage
Tincletonon
Pever
Peverellell
Minster
Minster
Gor
resort of Swanage, see p60 Win Winterborneterborne Stinsf Stinsfordord Heath Goree
Heath
Abbas
Abbas Poundbur Hamworthy
Hamworthy
Poundburyy
Poole
DORCHESTER
Litton Cheney
Litton Cheney Long Long DORCHESTER Cloud’ Cloud’s Hills Hill Piddle or Trent Poole
Bredy Bredy Win Winterborneterborne
St M St Martinartin West West Arne Arne Poole Harbour
Poole Harbour
Piddle or Trent
Swy Swyrere Little Bredy Black Staff Staffordord Mor Moretoneton Tank Museum
Tank Museum
Little Bredy Black
Brownsea
Down
Down MAIDEN Frome Brownsea
MAIDEN
Island
Island
Frome
WAREHAM
Hardy Hardy CASTLE Wool Wool WAREHAM Sandbanks
CASTLE
Sandbanks
Mon Monumentument East East East East
Broadmayneyne
ABBOTSBURYTSBURY
ABBO Port Porteshamesham Broadma War Warmwellmwell Owermoignemoigne Burton East East Holme Stoborough
Holme Stoborough
Burton
Ower
Whit Whitee Stoke Stoke West West Wytch
Wytch
Middleberee
Coombe
Studland
Holme
St Catherine Upw Upweyey Horse Horse Coombe Holme Middleber Heath Newton Studland
St Catherine’s’s
Heath Newton
Keynes
Keynes
Heath
Heath
Broadweyey
Chapel
Chapel Broadw Poxw Poxwellell Heath Bay Bay
Heath
West West
CORFE CASTLE Studland
Chaldon East East CORFE CASTLE Studland
Chaldon
Chaldon
P u r b e c k H i l l s
Preston OsmingtonOsmington
Langtonon
Langt Preston Chaldon East Lulworth
East Lulworth
Herr Herringing Radipole P u r b e c k H i l l s Church Nine Barrow Down
Radipole
Church
Ulwell
West Lulworth
Chickerellell
Chicker Ringstead West Lulworth Steeple Knowle Ulwell Swanag
Steeple Knowle
Nine Barrow Down
Ringstead
Swanagee
Weymouth
ACTIVITIES Fleet Fleet Weymouth Bay Bay Durdle Tyneham Kingston Bay Bay
Kingston
Durdle
Tyneham
Bay
Bay
Westham Door Door Kimmeridge SWANAGE
Westham
Kimmeridge
SWANAGE
WEYMOUTH
WEYMOUTH LUL LULWORTH COVEWORTH COVE Langton
Langton
Board a classic steam train from Swanage to Corfe Castle Matravers
C h e s i l B e a c h
Matravers
C h e s i l B e a c h
WORTH Dur Durlstonlston
WORTH
Walk the South West Coast Path along its spectacular cliffs Wyke R MATRAVERS Head Head
Wyke Regisegis
MATRAVERS
Portland
Portland
Harbour
Enjoy a glorious Dorset cream tea in a traditional tea shop Harbour St Alban’
St Alban’ss
or St or St Aldhelm’s HeadAldhelm’s Head
Fortune’s Well’s Well
Hire a boat or paddle a kayak on the Frome at Wareham West West Fortune
Bay Bay
Go windsurfing or sailing in the bay at Weymouth East Eastonon
Isle of Portlandortland
Isle of P
Hunt for fossils on the Isle of Portland or Lulworth Cove South
Southwellwell
Discover your inner Briton on Maiden Castle’s ramparts
Bill of Portland
Bill of Portland
058-059_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 58 20/07/18 7:24 PM

DRIVE 4: Hardy Country and the Jurassic Coast 59


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Swanage to Sherborne.
Number of days: 3 days allowing a
Poyn Poyntingtontington
Milbor half-day’s tour of Dorchester.
Milbornene
Obor Obornene Port Port Distance: Around 129 km (80 miles).
Sherborne Old Castleld Castle
Sherborne O
SHERBORNE Road conditions: Good roads, but
SHERBORNE
sometimes narrow and steep.
Sherborne
Sherborne
Castle Castle
Nor Northth When to go: It is possible to tour
Woottonon
Woott Bishop
Bishop’s’s
Long Long Candle the area any time of year, but best
Candle
Lillingtonon
Lillingt Burt Burtonon o o r r to try and avoid public holidays and
summer weekends, when traffic is
B l a c k m
B l a c k m o o Kingsley heaviest around the coast.
Kingsley
Woottonon
Haselburyy
Leigh Woott Haselbur Opening times: Museums and
Leigh
Glan Glanvilleville Pulham Bryan
Bryan
Pulham
Chetnole
Chetnole Above The peaceful country village of Abbotsbury, see p61 attractions are generally open
Hermitage 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Hermitage
Mappo closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shop
Mappowderwder
Buck Bucklandland opening hours are longer. Churches
Newt Newtonon
Min Minterneterne are usually open until dusk.
Batc Batcombeombe Mag Magnana
Hilton
Alton Alton Hilton
Frome
Frome Paner Panerasas Hartf Hartfootoot 0 kilometres 5 Main market days: Swanage: Fri;
St Quin Lane Lane
St Quintintin
Cerne Abbas Plush Plush Wareham: 2nd & 4th Thu of month
Cerne Abbas
Giant Giant 0 miles 5
CERNE ABBAS & Sat; Weymouth: Apr–Oct Thu;
CERNE ABBAS
Piddletrenthideenthide
Cheselbournene
Cattist Piddletr Cheselbour Winterborne Dorchester: Wed & 4th Sat of month;
Winterborne
Cattistockock
Sydling Whitchurch
Sydling
Whitchurch
St N St Nicholasicholas Sherborne: Thu & Sat, also Farmer’s
Dewlish
Dewlish
Winterborne
Maiden Newt Godmanst Piddlehin Milbor Winterborne Market on 3rd Fri of month.
Maiden Newtonon
Godmanstoneone
Piddlehintonton
Kingston
Kingston
Milbornene
Winterborne
DORSET
DORSET Stileham Winterborne Shopping: Dorset is famed for its
Stileham
Zelstone
Zelstone
Porthleven
Bere Regis
Wynf Wynfordord Bere Regis Morden Porthleven creamy Blue Vinny cheese; sweet
Morden
Lytehett
Eagle Eagle Frampt Puddletown Bloxworth Lytehett cinnamon-rich Dorset apple cake,
Puddletown
Framptonon
Bloxworth
Matravers and delicious locally produced
Matravers
Turner’s
Turner’s
Comptonon
Compt Char Charminsterminster Puddle chutneys and jams.
Puddle
Valencee
Lytchett
Askerswellell
Askersw Valenc Bradf Bradfordord Hardy Hardy’s’s Tinclet Lytchett Upt Uptonon
Tincletonon
Cottage
Cottage
Peverellell
Pever Minster
Minster
Win Winterborneterborne Stinsf Stinsfordord Gor Goree Major festivals: Swanage: Jazz
Heath
Abbas Poundbur Heath Hamworthy
Hamworthy
Abbas
Poundburyy
Poole
DORCHESTER
Litton Cheney
Litton Cheney Long Long DORCHESTER Cloud’ Cloud’s Hills Hill Piddle or Trent Poole Festival, Jul; Wareham: Music Festival,
Bredy Bredy Win Winterborneterborne Aug & Sep; Weymouth: Seafood
Poole Harbour
St M St Martinartin West West Arne Arne Poole Harbour
Piddle or Trent
Swy Swyrere Little Bredy Black Staff Staffordord Mor Moretoneton Tank Museum Festival, Jul; Weymouth Regatta, Sep.
Tank Museum
Little Bredy Black
Brownsea
Down
Down MAIDEN Frome Brownsea
MAIDEN
Island
Island
Frome
WAREHAM
CASTLE
Hardy Hardy CASTLE Wool Wool WAREHAM Sandbanks
Sandbanks
Mon Monumentument East East East East
Broadmayneyne
ABBO Port Porteshamesham Broadma War Warmwellmwell Owermoignemoigne Burton East East Holme Stoborough
ABBOTSBURYTSBURY
Holme Stoborough
Burton
Ower
Whit Whitee Stoke Stoke West West Wytch
Wytch
Middleberee
Coombe
Studland
Holme
St Catherine Upw Upweyey Horse Horse Coombe Holme Middleber Heath Newton Studland
St Catherine’s’s
Heath Newton
Keynes
Heath
Keynes
Heath
Chapel Broadw Poxw Poxwellell Heath Bay Bay
Broadweyey
Chapel
Heath
West West
CORFE CASTLE Studland
Chaldon
Chaldon East East CORFE CASTLE Studland
P u r b e c k H i l l s
Chaldon
Langtonon
Langt Preston Chaldon East Lulworth
Preston OsmingtonOsmington
East Lulworth
Herr Herringing Radipole P u r b e c k H i l l s Church Nine Barrow Down
Radipole
Church
Ulwell
West Lulworth
Chickerellell
Chicker West Lulworth Steeple Knowle Ulwell DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Steeple Knowle
Nine Barrow Down
Swanagee
Ringstead
Fleet Fleet Weymouth Ringstead Kingston Swanag
Weymouth
Kingston
Durdle
Tyneham
Bay Bay Bay Bay Durdle Tyneham Bay Bay
Westham
Westham Door Door Kimmeridge SWANAGE Dorchester’s many museums and
Kimmeridge
SWANAGE
WEYMOUTH LUL LULWORTH COVEWORTH COVE Langton
WEYMOUTH
Langton
C h e s i l B e a c h
C h e s i l B e a c h
Matravers
Matravers ancient sights have something for
WORTH Dur Durlstonlston everyone – but especially dinosaur
WORTH
Wyke Regisegis
Wyke R MATRAVERS Head Head hunters; follow the theory with some
MATRAVERS
Portland
Portland
Harbour St Alban’ practical fossil hunting on Chesil
Harbour
St Alban’ss
or St or St Aldhelm’s HeadAldhelm’s Head Beach and Portland. From Swanage
Fortune’s Well’s Well
Fortune
West West enjoy a ride on a steam train, visit
Bay Bay a crumbling Norman castle and
East Eastonon
Isle of Portlandortland
Isle of P then head to the coast to explore
KEY the beach and awesome rock
Southwellwell
South
Drive route formations near Lulworth. For full
details, see p63.
Bill of Portland
Bill of Portland
058-059_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 59 20/07/18 7:24 PM

60 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


1 Swanage Lawrence of Arabia in Dorset
Dorset; BH19 1LB T E Lawrence – dubbed “Lawrence
This is a quintessential Victorian resort of Arabia” for his World War I exploits
with a seafront promenade, Punch – spent his post-war life in quiet
Dorset. See his effigy in Wareham
and Judy shows and a fine sandy and cottage at Clouds Hill (late
beach that curves around Swanage Mar–late Oct: open Thu–Sun). From
Bay. For something wilder, head 7 km here, it’s possible to walk to the site
(4 miles) north to Studland Bay – the of his fatal motorbike crash, to his
tourist office by the beach has maps grave in Moreton and to Bovington
for walkers, or take bus no. 50 from Camp where he briefly served –
now a tank museum (open daily).
Shore Road. The town is not without
interest either. The stone façade of
the Town Hall, built 1833, was taken 3 Corfe Castle
from the Mercers’ Hall in London Dorset; BH20 5EZ
(designed by Christopher Wren) when The silhouette of the crumbling
it was being remodelled – notice the castle ruins (open daily) that dominate
cherubs holding cloths for this village presents a truly romantic
the Virgin Mary. Board a vista. This once mighty
Above The pretty stone-quarrying town of Swanage Railway (Apr– Norman bastion owes
Worth Matravers Oct) steam train for a visit its present decrepit
to Corfe Castle. state to the English Civil
ª Leave on A351, left on War (1641–51), when
VISITING SWANAGE
B3069 and left to Worth Lawrence of Arabia, Lady Bankes defended
Parking Matravers. Park behind pub. Wareham it against Parliamentarian
There’s a short-stay car park behind the troops, who finally blew
tourist office, on Horsecliffe Lane, off 2 Worth Matravers the castle up after a six-week siege.
Victoria Avenue. There’s also a longer Dorset; BH19 3LF ª Carry on along the A351, then take
stay car park on Victoria Avenue (A351).
This tiny village’s attractions include B3075, signposted Stoborough, for
Tourist Information The Square and Compass pub (see Wareham. Car park is on right over river.
The White House, Shore Road, right), inspiring views (can be enjoyed
BH19 1LB; 01929 766 018; 4 Wareham
www.swanage.gov.uk from the pub’s outdoor tables), and a
graceful Norman church, St Nicholas. Dorset; BH20 4LU
Dating from the late 12th century, the Located on the River Frome close to
WHERE TO STAY church has a wood-beamed roof and the sea, Wareham was an important
SWANAGE a jagged chancel arch. This is a great port in Saxon times. Now a pretty
Grand Hotel Swanage moderate place to enjoy a walk along the South backwater, it preserves the layout of
This old-fashioned Victorian palace has West Coast Path, starting on one of its old town walls. St Martin’s Church
terrific views over the Bay, a splendid the footpaths that radiate from the also has much of its Saxon structure,
lawn and a cocktail lounge. village to the coast on either side. medieval frescoes and a romantic
Burlington Road, BH19 1LU; 01929 423 ª Turn left out of the car park, then effigy of T E Lawrence (see box above).
353; www.grandhotelswanage.co.uk
left onto the B3069 to A351, then left Hire a rowing boat or kayak at the
AROUND WAREHAM to Corfe village, castle and car park. bridge and enjoy a river trip from
Kemps Country House expensive
West of Wareham, off the A352, this Below The historic restored railway line at Swanage
former Victorian rectory offers clean,
modern and well-equipped rooms.
East Stoke, BH20 6AL (5 km/3 miles
on A352 and B3070 from Wareham);
01929 462 563; www.kempscountry
house.co.uk
WEYMOUTH
Hotel Rembrandt moderate
A 78-room hotel with restaurant, bar,
spa and indoor pool.
Dorchester Road, DT4 7JU; 01305 764
000; www.hotelrembrandt.co.uk
Roundhouse Hotel moderate
B&B with six rooms in a Georgian
town house facing the sea, with the
17th-century harbour just behind it.
1 The Esplanade, DT4 8EA; 01305 761
010; www.roundhouse-weymouth
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


060-063_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 60 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 4: Hardy Country and the Jurassic Coast 61


Far left Corfe Castle’s dramatic Norman
hilltop ruins Left The peaceful town of
Wareham, located on the River Frome
EAT AND DRINK
SWANAGE
Bull and Boat moderate
Enjoy fabulous beach views from this
modern eatery with a strong seafood
menu. Try the lobster served with
steak and giant prawns or the sea bass
cooked with leeks and mushrooms.
Wareham Boat Hire (01929 550 688; sailing events in the 2012 Olympics. 2 Ulwell Road, BH19 1LH; 01929 422
222; www.bullandboat.co.uk
www.warehamboathire.co.uk; Mar–Oct). To the south, the Isle of Portland,
ª Leave town on A352, turn left on connected to the mainland by a WORTH MATRAVERS
B3070, signed Lulworth Cove, through causeway, has a wild coastline worth The Square and Compass inexpensive
West Lulworth to the cove and car park. exploring – dinosaur footprints have Great pasties and real ales are served
been found here. Northwest stretches at this excellent flagstoned pub with
5 Lulworth Cove the 29-km (18-mile) pebble strand of great views and a small museum of
fossils and other local finds.
Dorset; BH20 5RQ Chesil Beach, a bleak, unearthly Worth Matravers, BH19 3LF; 01929 439
Below the Purbeck Hills with dramatic expanse backed by the Fleet Lagoon, 229; www.squareandcompasspub.co.uk
chalk cliffs lie a series of enticing a nature reserve. CORFE CASTLE
shingle and shale beaches, reached ª Take the B3157 northwest, following
by the coastal path. One of these, the signs to Abbotsbury. Morton’s House inexpensive–moderate
This 16th-century manor house has
nearly circular Lulworth Cove fills with been tastefully converted into a smart
small vessels in summer and offers 7 Abbotsbury hotel-restaurant. Lunch on soups, salads
sheltered swimming. A 15-minute Dorset; DT3 4JT and snacks in the bar, or guinea fowl or
walk west stands spectacular Durdle The only remaining building of a halibut in the more formal restaurant.
Door, a natural limestone archway in Benedictine Abbey, a15th-century East St, BH20 5EE; 01929 480 988;
www.mortonshouse.co.uk
the sea at the popular beach, Durdle tithe barn now houses a Children’s
Bay. Purbeck’s seaboard forms part of Farm (mid-Mar–early Sep & half-term: WEYMOUTH
the Jurassic Coast, a World Heritage open daily; early Sep–Oct: open weekends), Old Rooms Inn inexpensive
Site whose geological makeup has where kids can get close to a range of Right by the fishing harbour, with
yielded a rich trove of fossil finds. animals. There is also a garden filled tables outside, this pub offers a range
of snacks from salads to burgers and
ª From West Lulworth, follow signs for with exotic plants, and the Swannery grills, as well as real ales.
Dorchester, passing the turn for Durdle (mid-Mar–Oct: open daily), home to a Cove Row, DT4 8TT; 01305 771 130
Door. Turn left on A352 and left again colony of mute swans, best visited in Crab House Café moderate
on the A353 to Weymouth and the town June, when the swans nest and the On Fleet Lagoon, this simple shack
centre – park at ferry terminal. young hatch. Climb up to the hilltop with a few wooden tables serves
St Catherine’s Chapel for stupendous superb fresh seafood such as Portland
6 Weymouth views (and the path to the Swannery). crab and huge prawns in tarragon
Dorset; DT8 4ED ª Turn right at Strangeways Hall and butter. The Oyster Farm, Ferryman’s
Way, DT4 9YU; 01305 788 867; open
With its sandy beach, promenade, leave via Back Street on a steep, narrow Wed–Sun; booking essential;
Punch & Judy and donkey rides, ascent with great coastal views. Cross www.crabhousecafe.co.uk
Weymouth is a typical traditional over the junction, following signs to
English resort. Sailing, kitesurfing and the Hardy Monument. Turn right onto Below left Traditional seaside facilities at
windsurfing are popular activities, B3159 and left to Dorchester. Park in Weymouth’s sandy beach Below right Sheltered,
especially since the town hosted town centre off Acland Road. horseshoe-shaped bay of Lulworth Cove
















060-063_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 61 20/07/18 7:44 PM

62 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN














Above The impressive Maumbury Rings,
Dorchester Above centre The view down 8 Dorchester
High East Street in the centre of Dorchester Dorset; DT1 1BE
Above right The remains of the Roman Town With Georgian architecture, tree-lined avenues and quirky museums,
House, discovered 1937 Dorchester is also associated with Thomas Hardy as the “Casterbridge” of
his novels. Look, too, for reminders of the infamous Judge Jeffreys (1645–
VISITING DORCHESTER 89), the Tolpuddle Martyrs, and the town’s early Roman inhabitants.
Tourist Information
Library, Charles Street, DT1 1EE; 01305 A two-hour walking tour Barclays Bank 4, said to have been
267 992; www.visit-dorset.com From the car park, head south, then the Mayor of Casterbridge’s house in
Parking left onto tree-lined South Walks Road Thomas Hardy’s novel. Retrace your
Park in the town centre, off Acland and on to the Dorset Martyrs 1 – steps up South Street, which becomes
Road. There is an additional car park three bronze figures carved in 1986 by Corn Hill. On the left, the entrance to
nearby on Durngate Street. modernist sculptor Elisabeth Frink. the Antelope Walk Shopping Arcade
Cross Icen Way, then go left on a path 5 was once the Antelope Hotel,
WHERE TO STAY across Salisbury Fields to Salisbury mentioned in The Mayor of
Street. The Teddy Bear Museum 2 is Casterbridge and where Judge
DORCHESTER at the end of this street, in the same Jeffreys held his “Bloody Assizes”
Westwood House inexpensive building as the Terracotta Warriors condemning 74 of those rebelling
This centrally located B&B in a smart Museum (both open daily), dedicated against James II to death in 1685.
Georgian town house offers six well- to the red clay army of China’s first At the top of Corn Hill, turn left into
equipped rooms. Lavish breakfasts are emperor. Exit left into High East Street, High West Street. St Peter’s Church 6,
served in an airy conservatory. and left again into Icen Way to find the on the right, is mainly 15th century
29 High West Street, DT1 1UP; 01305
268 018; www.westwoodhouse.co.uk Dinosaur Museum 3 (open daily). From (Thomas Hardy helped to restore it
here, turn right and follow Durngate as an apprentice in the 1850s). To the
The Casterbridge moderate Street and left on South Street to left of the church is the Dorset County
A range of six cosy rooms are available
at this family-run hotel on the main Museum 7 (closed
street, including one with a four-poster Sun, except Jul–Sep),
and one with its own patio. Roman detailing the cultural
Town House
49 High East Street, DT1 1HU; 01305 and geological history
264 043; www.casterbridgehotel.co.uk T H E G R O V E Dorset
County of the region. Past
Museum St Peter’s Teddy Bear
SHERBORNE Keep Church Museum the museum is the
Military Shire Hall HIGH EAST ST Shire Hall 8 (open
The Bakehouse inexpensive Museum Tutankhamun HIGH WEST ST
Dating from the 18th century, this Exhibition Dinosaur Mon–Fri), where the
traditional, friendly B&B with flagstone BRIDPORT RD Antelope Museum Tolpuddle Martyrs
floors has plenty of period character. Roman Walk Barclays were sent to Australia
Wall
The rooms are comfortable and of a Bank ICEN WAY for trying to form an
good size. S O U T H S T R E E T Dorset agricultural union in
1 Acreman Street, DT9 3NU; 01935 Martyrs
817 969 COR NWA LL R D S O U T H WA L K S R O A D 1834. Over the road
The Eastbury Hotel moderate G REAT WESTERN RD the Tutankhamun
Close to the Abbey, this Georgian Exhibition 9 (open
hotel has a one-acre (4,000-sq metre) daily) gives an insight
walled garden. Public rooms are W E Y M O U T H A V E into the life and burial
welcoming, bedrooms are spacious M A U M B U R Y R D of this Egyptian
and the staff are friendly and helpful. boy-king.
The award-winning restaurant is 0 metres 250
worth trying, too. Maumbury Cross back over
Long Street, DT9 3BY; 01935 813 131; Rings 0 yards 250 High West Street and
www.theeastburyhotel.co.uk turn into Glyde Path
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
060-063_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 62 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 4: Hardy Country and the Jurassic Coast 63


Road, following it to the Roman Town and trenches is now all grassed over
House 0 (open daily). The ruins reveal but the undulating banks vividly evoke
the heating system and mosaic floors. the ancient fortification (450–300 BC),
At the end of Northernhay, turn left overcome by the Romans in AD 43.
into The Grove, and on to a statue of ª Return to A35, heading east
Thomas Hardy. Cross The Grove and around Dorchester, turn left on B3150
walk up Bridport Road to the Keep and right on B3143. At Piddletrenthide,
Military Museum q (Apr–Sep: open turn left, following signs for Cerne
Mon–Sat; Oct–Mar: open Tue–Fri), Abbas, up a narrow, steep lane.
revealing the history of local army
regiments. From here, return to High 0 Cerne Abbas
West Street to see a fragment of Roman Dorset; DT2 7JF
Wall w by Princes Street. Cross here Amid the timbered, golden houses of
and follow West Walks, turning right at Cerne Abbas stands St Mary’s Church,
the end then left into Cornwall Road; dating from the 13th century and
cross Gt Western Road into Maumbury boasting a rare stone chancel screen.
Road, and head to the Maumbury However, the village is most famous Above Sherborne Abbey, featuring Saxon,
Rings e, a Neolithic henge, then a for the Cerne Giant, a chalk carving on Norman and Perpendicular architecture
Roman amphitheatre and later a place a hillside north of the village. Little is
of public execution. Return on known about the origins of the 55-m EAT AND DRINK
Weymouth Avenue to South Walks (180-ft) figure, wielding a club and
Road, back to the car park. proudly displaying his manhood. It DORCHESTER
ª Head south on Weymouth Avenue, was first recorded in 1694, though The Fridge inexpensive
turning off right on Maiden Castle Road. some historians believe it dates from Blue Vinny cheese, Dorset Apple Cake
and other local specialities are stocked
around 190 AD, possibly depicting in this award-winning delicatessen.
9 Maiden Castle Hercules – it has long been the site of 17 Tudor Arcade, DT1 1BN; 01305 269
Dorset; DT2 9PP fertility rituals. To view it, turn up Duck 088; www.thefridge.biz
Prehistoric Maiden Castle (open daily) Street from Long Street, following Potters inexpensive
is the largest Iron-Age hillfort in signs for the Giant and a parking area. This casual but smart café offers a
Europe. The vast and complex ª Turn right out of the viewing area, healthy selection of home-cooked
structure of 6-m (20-ft) ramparts on the A352, signed Sherborne. Follow food, from snack lunches to cakes.
19 Durngate St, DT1 1JP; 01305 260 312
signs to Abbey and park opposite.
Yalbury Cottage moderate
q Sherborne Classic French fare in a 350-year-old
former shepherd’s house, now an eight-
Dorset; DT9 3NL room hotel. Serves delicious cream teas.
The chief glory of this charming stone Lower Bockhampton, DT2 8PZ; 01305
town is Sherborne Abbey, a fine 262 382; www.yalburycottage.com
example of Perpendicular architecture SHERBORNE
whose fan-vaulted ceiling is studded The Green moderate
with colourful bosses depicting such Sophisticated modern European
images as a mermaid, an owl and a cuisine in a semi-formal restaurant
dog with a bone. To the east of using fresh, locally sourced produce.
town stands the ruined Old Castle 3 The Green, DT9 3HY; 01935 813 821;
(Apr–Oct: open daily), dating from the www.greenrestaurant.co.uk
12th century, and the New Castle Tamburino Gold moderate
(Apr–Oct: open Tue–Thu, Sat & Sun), built Sharing platters are a feature of this
for Sir Walter Raleigh in 1594, with grand popular Italian restaurant. There is a
special lunchtime menu on weekdays.
Above The chalk carving of the Cerne Giant, state rooms, a Tudor kitchen and now 1 Digby Road, DT9 3NL; 01935 389 053;
possibly a fertility symbol with parkland by “Capability” Brown. www.tamburino.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Weymouth 6 for some fossil-hunting Coast and Castles
Dorchester and Swanage are both on Chesil Beach or Portland – but From Swanage 1, ride a steam train
good bases for exploring the keep away from the cliffs. If there’s before lunching at Worth Matravers
coastline, beaches and museums. time make a trip to Abbotsbury 7 2. Then head to Corfe Castle 3 and
with its children’s farm and swannery. Wareham 4, and finish off the day
Jurassic Adventure at Lulworth Cove 5 or Durdle Door.
Spend a morning at Dorchester’s 8 Weymouth is on the A354 from
Dinosaur Museum and Dorset County Dorchester, then use the B3157 for Take the A351, B3069, A351 and B3070;
Museum, pack a picnic and head to Chesil Beach; return as per the drive. skip Wareham, if short of time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


060-063_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 63 20/07/18 7:44 PM

064-065_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 64 30/03/2017 14:15
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 5




Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Exeter
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Plymouth


A Spiritual

Journey


Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Salisbury to
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Glastonbury
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES WALES WALES WALES WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Highlights
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
• Medieval Salisbury
Unearth the medieval wonders of
Salisbury, crowned by its venerable
cathedral and the tallest spire in the UK
• Neolithic stone circles
Experience the different character of
England’s prehistoric stone circles,
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool from the majesty of Stonehenge to
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
the solemnity of Avebury
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham • Inland waterways Birmingham
WALES
Soak up the tranquillity of the Kennet
Cardiff London Bristol London Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff and Avon Canal on foot, by bike or on
a gentle boat cruise
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
• Georgian Bath
Follow in the footsteps of Jane
Austen in this panoply of Georgian
architecture, and tour the ancient,
naturally heated baths
The elegant and stately architecture of Bath,
by the River Avon
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
064-065_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 65 Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh 30/03/2017 14:15
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Edinburgh
Bristol
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND










Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

66 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

A Spiritual Journey

From the lovely city of Salisbury, dominated by its iconic cathedral spire, to
the graceful Georgian terraces of Bath, and west to medieval Wells, this
drive takes in some of England’s most compelling historic centres. En route,
there are appealing stretches of countryside: the grand swathes of Salisbury
Plain and the rolling pastures of Somerset, studded by the Mendip Hills, an
Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty. And along the way are many Chippenham Highway Berwick
Berwick
Highway
Chippenham
Bassett
Bremhill
reminders of the distant past, in which ancient religions have left their Biddestoneone Bremhill Bassett
Biddest
mark: Stonehenge is the most famous of Britain’s prehistoric Colerne Calne Calne
Colerne
Cherhill
Derry Hill
stone circles, but lesser-visited circles exist at Langridge St Catherine Corsham Derry Hill Cherhill Silbury AVEBURY Marlborough
AVEBURY
St Catherine
Silbury
Corsham
Marlborough
Langridge
Avebury and Stanton Drew. The final Keynsham LACOCK BOWOOD Beckhampton Hill Hill West Kennett
West Kennett
BOWOOD
Beckhampton
LACOCK
Keynsham
Charlcombe
Neston
Kelston
HOUSE
Sandy
stop is Glastonbury, where Kelston Charlcombe Box Box Neston Sandy HOUSE East East
Lane Lane
Bathford
religion, history and Winford Compton BATHTH Bathford Atworth Avon Avon Bromham Kennett
Compton
Kennett
Atworth
Bromham
BA
Winford
Dando
Dando
Woollard
Chew Chew
myth are all Magna Woollard Corston Melksham Roundway Horton Allington
Corston
Roundway
Horton
Allington
Melksham
Magna
Claverton
BRADFORD
Rowde
Ridgehill
magically mixed Butcombe Ridgehill STANTON DREW Claverton BRADFORD Kennet and Avon Canal Alton Priorsiors
STANTON DREW
Rowde
Down Down
Alton Pr
ON AVON
ON AVON
Kennet and Avon Canal
STONE CIRCLE
Butcombe
Marksbury
together. Blagdon Chew Chew STONE CIRCLE Marksbury Combe Holt Holt Semington Caen Caen DEVIZES V a l e o f P e w s e y s e y Wilcot
Wilcot
DEVIZES
Stoke Stoke
Combe
BA TH &
BA TH &
Blagdon
Semington
V a l e o f P e w
Reser
Reservoirvoir Chew Chew HayHay Hill Hill Etchilhampton
Etchilhampton
Magna
Magna
N.E. SOMERSET
Blagdon
Blagdon Reservoirvoir N.E. SOMERSET
Reser
Potterne
Ubley Ubley Trowbridge Bulkington Potterne
Trowbridge
Bulkington
Wedhampton
Mar
Steeple
Peasedown
Hallatrow
Shipham
Shipham West West Hallatrow Peasedown Norton Steeple Wedhampton Mardenden
Norton
Ashton
Compton Martin
Compton Martin Harptree St John Ashton
St John
Harptree
WIL TSHIRE
St Philip
Farrington
Cheddar Farrington St Philip Southwick WIL TSHIRE
Cheddar
Southwick
Gur
Gurneyney
Radst
Axbridge Gorge Gorge Litton Litton Radstockock West West Coulston Upavonvon
Axbridge
Upa
Ashton
Ashton
Coulston
Market Lavington
Faulkland
Midsomer
Midsomer Faulkland Market Lavington
Chewton
Cheddar Chewton Nortonton
Cheddar
Nor
Mendip
Priddy
West Lavington
Weare Priddy Mendip Beckington Bratton West Lavington
Weare
Beckington
Bratton
Westbury
Emborough Kilmersdon Westbury Enford
Enford
Emborough
Kilmersdon
Salisbur
THE MENDIP
Draycott THE MENDIP Frome Frome Salisbur y y
Draycott
Holcombe
Cocklake HILLS Holcombe
HILLS
Cocklake
Berkley
SOMERSET
Ebbor Gorge SOMERSET Mells Mells Berkley Fittleton
Fittleton
Ebbor Gorge
Tilshead
Wedmore
Wedmore Wookey Hole Imber Imber Tilshead Figheldean
Wookey Hole
Figheldean
Frome
Chapmanslade
Oakhill
Herrington Oakhill Frome Chapmanslade
Herrington
Mudgley
Mudgley Nunney Orcheston
Plain
Nunney
Orcheston
Downhead
WELLS
Wookey WELLS Downhead Plain
Wookey
Durrington
Warminster
Shepton Warminster Durrington
Shepton
Bishopstrow
Mallet
Chitterne
STONEHENGE
Woodlands
Croscombe Mallet Leighton Truddoxhill Woodlands Bishopstrow Chitterne Shrewton STONEHENGE
Croscombe
Leighton
Shrewton
Truddoxhill
Westhay
Westhay Godney Polsham Doulting
Doulting
Godney
Polsham
Sutton
Chesterblade
Winterbourne St
Upton Lovell
Meare North North Chesterblade Sutton Upton Lovell Winterbourne Stokeoke
Meare
Amesbury
Wooton
Wooton Pilton Pilton Veny Veny Amesbury
Prestleigh Corton Wilsford
Wilsford
Prestleigh
Corton
Glastonbury Boscombe
Glastonbury
Boscombe
Berwick
GLASTONBURY
GLASTONBURY Tor Tor Pylle Pylle Vale of Wylye Berwick Avon Avon
St James
Upper
West West Stockton St James Upper
Stockton
Woodford
Vale of Wylye
Pennard
Str
Streeteet Pennard Wylye Woodford
Wylye
Butleigh Below Elaborate pinnacles of Bath Abbey, seen Little Little
Butleigh
Middle Woodford
Walton
Walton Wooton across the River Avon, Bath see pp71–2 Langford Great Great Middle Woodford
Wooton
Langford
Lower Woodford
Wishford Lower Woodford
Wishford
OLD OLD
SARUM
SARUM
Wilton
Wilton
New Sarum
New Sarum
Nadder SALISBURY
SALISBURY
Nadder
ACTIVITIES
Stroll through Salisbury’s water meadows to find the spot from
which Constable painted his Salisbury Cathedral picture
Take a tour of the Wadworth Brewery, Devizes
Hire a skiff or narrowboat from Devizes or Bradford-on-Avon
to tour the Kennet and Avon Canal
Rejuvenate at Thermae Bath Spa, the modern bathing
complex at the heart of Bath
Hike in the Mendip Hills around the beautiful Ebbor Gorge
Rent a bike in Glastonbury and experience the tranquillity of
the Somerset Levels, west of town
066-067_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 66 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 5: A Spiritual Journey 67

0 kilometres 5
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
0 miles 5
Start/finish: Salisbury to Glastonbury.
KEY
Number of days: 4, allowing for a
Drive route
half-day each in Salisbury and Bath.
Distance: 180 km (112 miles).
Road conditions: Good, but allow for
Berwick
Highway
Chippenham
Chippenham Highway Berwick congestion in and around Bath.
Bassett
Bassett
Bremhill
Biddestoneone Bremhill
Biddest
Colerne
Colerne Calne Calne When to go: Weekdays are best for
Cherhill
Derry Hill Cherhill Salisbury, Stonehenge and Bath, to
Derry Hill
AVEBURY
St Catherine
Corsham
Silbury
Langridge
Marlborough
Langridge St Catherine Corsham Silbury AVEBURY Marlborough miss the crowds. Glastonbury is very
Hill Hill West Kennett
West Kennett
Beckhampton
BOWOOD
LACOCK
Keynsham
Keynsham Charlcombe Box Box Neston LACOCK BOWOOD Beckhampton busy either side of the last weekend
Charlcombe
Kelston Neston Sandy HOUSE of June, when the festival takes place.
Kelston
Sandy
HOUSE
Bathford
Bathford Lane Lane East East
Compton
Kennett
Atworth
Compton Atworth Avon Avon Kennett
BA
Bromham
Winford
Winford Woollard Dando BATHTH Bromham Opening times: Attractions are
Dando
Woollard
Chew Chew Corston
Corston
Horton
Roundway
Melksham
Allington
Magna
Magna Melksham Roundway Horton Allington generally open 10am–5pm, but
Claverton
BRADFORD
Ridgehill
Ridgehill STANTON DREW Claverton BRADFORD Rowde
STANTON DREW
Rowde
Down Down
Alton Pr
Kennet and Avon Canal
ON AVON
Butcombe Chew Chew STONE CIRCLE Marksbury ON AVON Kennet and Avon Canal Alton Priorsiors close earlier (or close completely)
STONE CIRCLE
Butcombe
Marksbury
Wilcot
DEVIZES
Combe
BA TH &
Blagdon
Blagdon Stoke Stoke BA TH & Combe Holt Holt Semington Caen Caen DEVIZES V a l e o f P e w s e y s e y Wilcot Nov–Easter. Shops stay open longer.
Semington
V a l e o f P e w
Reservoirvoir Chew Chew HayHay Hill Hill Etchilhampton Churches are usually open until dusk.
Reser
Etchilhampton
Magna
Magna
N.E. SOMERSET
Blagdon Reservoirvoir N.E. SOMERSET
Blagdon
Reser
Potterne
Ubley Ubley Trowbridge Bulkington Potterne Market days: Salisbury: Charter
Trowbridge
Bulkington
Wedhampton
Mar
Steeple
Peasedown
Hallatrow
Shipham
Shipham West West Hallatrow Peasedown Norton Steeple Wedhampton Mardenden
Norton
Ashton
Compton Martin Harptree St John Ashton Market, Tue & Sat; Farmers’ Market,
St John
Compton Martin
Harptree
WIL TSHIRE
St Philip
Farrington
Cheddar
Cheddar Farrington St Philip Southwick WIL TSHIRE Wed; Devizes: Thu; Bath: Farmers’
Southwick
Gur
Gurneyney
Radst
Axbridge
Axbridge Gorge Gorge Litton Litton Radstockock West West Coulston Upavonvon Market, Sat (Green Park Station);
Upa
Ashton
Ashton
Coulston
Market Lavington
Faulkland
Midsomer Faulkland Market Lavington
Midsomer
Chewton
Cheddar Chewton Nortonton Indoor Market, Mon–Sat (Guildhall).
Cheddar
Nor
Priddy
Mendip
West Lavington
Weare
Weare Priddy Mendip Beckington Bratton West Lavington
Bratton
Beckington
Westbury
Enford
Emborough Kilmersdon Westbury Enford Shopping: Look out for authentic
Emborough
Kilmersdon
Salisbur
THE MENDIP
Draycott THE MENDIP Frome Frome Salisbur y y
Draycott
Holcombe
Cocklake HILLS Holcombe Cheddar cheese in the Mendip Hills –
Cocklake
HILLS
Berkley
SOMERSET
Fittleton
Ebbor Gorge SOMERSET Mells Mells Berkley Fittleton especially in the Cheddar Gorge and
Ebbor Gorge
Tilshead
Wedmore Wookey Hole Imber Imber Tilshead Figheldean discounted Clarks shoes in Street, south
Wedmore
Wookey Hole
Figheldean
Frome
Chapmanslade
Oakhill
Herrington
Herrington Oakhill Frome Chapmanslade of Glastonbury. Anyone interested in
Mudgley Nunney Orcheston
Mudgley
Nunney
Plain
Orcheston
Downhead
Wookey WELLS Downhead Plain New Age trinkets will enjoy Glastonbury.
WELLS
Wookey
Durrington
Shepton
Shepton Warminster Durrington
Warminster
Bishopstrow
Mallet
Chitterne
Leighton
STONEHENGE
Croscombe Mallet Leighton Truddoxhill Woodlands Bishopstrow Chitterne Shrewton STONEHENGE
Croscombe
Woodlands
Shrewton
Truddoxhill
Westhay Godney Polsham Doulting Major festivals: Salisbury:
Westhay
Doulting
Godney
International Arts Festival (2 wks
Polsham
Sutton
Chesterblade
Upton Lovell
Winterbourne St
Meare North North Chesterblade Sutton Upton Lovell Winterbourne Stokeoke May–Jun); Food and Drink Festival
Meare
Amesbury
Wooton Pilton Pilton Veny Veny Amesbury
Wooton
Prestleigh Corton Wilsford
Prestleigh
Wilsford
Corton
Glastonbury Boscombe (mid-Sep); Bath: International
Glastonbury
Boscombe
Berwick
GLASTONBURY Tor Tor Pylle Pylle Vale of Wylye Berwick Avon Avon Music Festival (12 days Jun); Jane
GLASTONBURY
St James
Upper
West West Stockton St James Upper
Stockton
Woodford
Pennard
Vale of Wylye
Streeteet Pennard Wylye Woodford Austen Festival (9 days late Sep).
Str
Wylye
Butleigh Little Little
Butleigh
Middle Woodford
Walton Wooton Langford Great Great Middle Woodford
Walton
Wooton
Langford
Lower Woodford
Wishford
Wishford Lower Woodford
OLD OLD
SARUM
SARUM
Wilton
Wilton
New Sarum DAY TRIP OPTIONS
New Sarum
SALISBURY
Nadder
Nadder
SALISBURY
From Salisbury, take in the prehistoric
stone rings, ancient monuments and
Below Narrowboats on the Kennet and Avon ditches of Old Sarum, Stonehenge
Canal, near Bradford-on-Avon, see p70 and Avebury. Fans of architecture and
shopping can happily spend several
hours exploring Bath followed by a trip
to Bradford-on-Avon for Anglo-Saxon
buildings and then to medieval
Lacock Abbey. A morning spent
touring Wells and Glastonbury will
appeal to lovers of medieval
churches, while cavers and nature-
lovers will appreciate the walks,
gorges and wildlife found among the
Mendip Hills. For full details, see p73.
066-067_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 67 20/07/18 7:44 PM

68 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


2 Old Sarum
Wiltshire; SP1 3SD
On a windswept hilltop, formidable
earthworks and scanty Norman
remains mark the site of Old Sarum
(open daily), an important settlement
that flourished from around 500 BC.
Occupied later by the Romans and
Saxons, it was then fortified by the
Normans who also built a cathedral
here in the 12th century. The site was
abandoned in the next century, when
Salisbury became the regional centre.
ª Turn left out of Old Sarum onto
the A345, then left onto A303. Turn
right onto A360 following signs for
Stonehenge visitor centre. A shuttle runs
between the car park and the stones.

The riddle of the stones
Above Salisbury Cathedral, with the tallest Composed of a ring of upright stones
spire in the UK Top right Narrowboat on the 1 Salisbury topped with lintels, a horseshoe of
Kennet and Avon Canal, Devizes Bottom Wiltshire; SP1 1EJ trilithons (two uprights and a lintel),
right Ruins of the Bishop’s Palace, Old Sarum One of Britain’s great cathedralw cities, and a ring of bluestones, Stonehenge
Salisbury has a compact centre that is remains a mystery. Why was it built?
How were the stones moved here,
VISITING SALISBURY ideal for a leisurely stroll. Salisbury some from as far away as the Preseli
Cathedral (open daily), built over a Hills in Wales? The most extraordinary
Parking
The best car park in Salisbury is Central period of just 38 years in the 13th fact is that the whole complex was
Car Park (signed) by the Playhouse. century, is an unusually fine example of built without any more sophisticated
tools than picks made from antlers
Tourist Information Early English Gothic. The soaring 123-m and shovels made of bone.
Fish Row, SP1 1EJ; 01722 342 860; (404-ft) tower can be explored on a
www.visitsalisbury.com guided tour and the library holds an
original copy of Magna Carta. Learn 3 Stonehenge
more about the city’s history, as well Wiltshire; SP4 7DE
WHERE TO STAY
as that of Old Sarum and Stonehenge England’s grandest and best preserved
SALISBURY in the Salisbury and South Wiltshire stone circle appears dwarfed by the
Cathedral View moderate Museum (open Mon–Sat; daily Jun–Sep), expanse of Salisbury Plain. Built in
Welcoming B&B behind the Cathedral behind the cathedral. Finally, take a stages between 3,000 BC and 1,600
and with views of it from the front short stroll west of the cathedral to the BC, the huge stones and earthworks
rooms; all four rooms are en suite. water meadows, to enjoy the classic originally formed part of a much
83 Exeter Street, SP1 2SE; 01722 502
254; www.cathedral-viewbandb.co.uk city views painted by John Constable. larger complex. The exact function of
ª From the centre, head north on Stonehenge (open daily) is obscure
Red Lion Hotel moderate–expensive
This characterful coaching inn dates Castle Street onto the A345; park on site. but, given the alignment of the stones
back to the 17th century and is filled relative to the rising and setting sun, it
with curios and period pieces. Below The huge, impressive Neolithic stone is likely to have had an astronomical
Milford Street, SP1 2AN; 01722 323 334; complex at Stonehenge and religious function. Its location at
www.the-redlion.co.uk
DEVIZES
The Bear Hotel moderate
This hotel has included royalty among
its guests. Comfortable rooms, and live
jazz or blues in the cellar at weekends.
Market Place, SN10 1HS; 01380 722 444;
www.thebearhoteldevizes.co.uk
AVEBURY
The Lodge expensive
Wake amid the stones in this lovely
18th-century vegetarian B&B. Only two
rooms so book ahead.
High Street, SN8 1RF; 01672 539 023;
www.aveburylodge.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150

068-073_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 68 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 5: A Spiritual Journey 69


the heart of a dense area of Neolithic 5 Avebury
and Bronze Age monuments and Wiltshire; SN8 1RE
burial mounds adds to its aura of Sticking out of the earth like broken
spirituality. There is no direct access to teeth, the three concentric stone
the stones (visitors must follow a path circles of Avebury (open daily) are less
around them) but free audioguides famous than Stonehenge but far more
provide an informative commentary. accessible. Erected between 2,850 BC
ª Turn right out of the car park and and 2,200 BC, the rough-hewn stones
continue northwest along the A344 extend through the village and
and A360 to Devizes. beyond and are ringed by a huge
ditch and earth mound. The site has
suffered much over the years, and the
stones largely owe their present
appearance to Alexander Keiller, an
amateur archaeologist who excavated
and re-erected many of them in the
1930s. Other sites within walking
distance include Silbury Hill, Europe’s Above Caen Hill Locks on the Kennet and
largest man-made ancient monument, Avon Canal, Devizes
and West Kennet Long Barrow, a 100-m
(330-ft) chambered tomb mound.
ª Take the A4361 west, then take the
A4 through Calne, follow signs on to
Bowood House on the left.
Above Elegant façade of Bowood House, one of 6 Bowood House
the finest stately homes in England Calne, Wiltshire; SN11 0LZ
“Capability” Brown and Robert and
4 Devizes James Adam were among the garden
Wiltshire; SN10 1JG designers and architects who worked
This historic market town has one of on Bowood House (open Apr–Oct), a
the region’s finest main streets, graced superb stately home dating mainly
by elegant buildings from all eras. On from the 18th century. Inside are
Long Street, the Wiltshire Heritage displays of costumes, porcelain and EAT AND DRINK
Museum (closed Jan: Sun & Mon) traces Indian artistry, and the laboratory
the history of the county from earliest where Joseph Priestley discovered SALISBURY
times and has an excel lent prehistoric oxygen in 1774. There are spectacular Pheasant Inn moderate
One of Salisbury’s most historic pubs,
collection. Take an enlightening tour rhododendron walks in the grounds – the Pheasant Inn specializes in locally
of the Victorian Wadworth Brewery at their best April to June – as well as sourced steaks and real ale, as well as
(open Mon–Sat; 01380 723 361; www. grottoes and an adventure playground. offering varied snack meals.
wadworth.co.uk), on New Park Street, ª Take the exit to the A4 west, then 19 Salt Lane, SP1 1DT; 01722 421 841;
with tastings on most days. A brief south on the A342, then right at Sandy www.pheasantsalisbury.co.uk
walk west of town along the Kennet Lane for Lacock. Car park is on the left. AROUND DEVIZES
and Avon Canal leads to Caen Hill The George & Dragon moderate
Locks, an extraordinary flight of 29 Inventive modern dishes are served in
locks. The canal, which stretches for this welcoming gastro pub on the
nearly 96 km (60 miles) between A342 3.4 km (2 miles) north of Devizes.
Newbury and Bath, dates from 1810. Spicy crab risotto and game dishes are
among the specialities. It also has three
Explore the outstanding beauty of this stylish rooms for an overnight stop.
waterway on a narrowboat rented High Street, Rowde, SN10 2PN;
from Devizes Marina, north off the A361 01380 723 053;
(01380 725 300; www.devizesmarina.co.uk). www.thegeorgeanddragonrowde.co.uk
ª Head northeast along A361, turn AROUND AVEBURY
right at a roundabout, through Horton The Waggon and Horses inexpensive
and past a white horse on the chalk hills. This large thatched inn lies 2 km
Turn left towards Marlborough, then left (1 mile) from Avebury’s monuments
for East Kennett. Turn left on the A4, then on the A4. Tuck into steaks, pies and
right onto the A4361 for Avebury. Pass traditional English dishes, as well as
curries and lasagne. There’s also a
West Kennet Avenue, a procession of Above Silbury Hill, one of several major Neolithic pleasant garden.
stones leading to Avebury. Park on site. sites close to Avebury Beckhampton, SN8 1QJ; 01672 539 418
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


068-073_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 69 20/07/18 7:44 PM

70 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


7 Lacock 8 Bradford-on-Avon
Wiltshire; SN15 2LG Wiltshire; BA15 1LF
Meticulously preserved by its owners, Rising up from the river, this engaging
the National Trust, this village has half- town deserves a visit. The wealth
timbered houses and a predominantly earned from the cloth trade is evident
sleepy flavour. Its unspoiled air has in the historic buildings, such as the
led to many appearances in TV and Anglo-Saxon Church of St Laurence,
film productions, including The Other possibly founded in AD 705, and the
Boleyn Girl and the Harry Potter films. early 14th-century Tithe Barn, used
At one end of the main street is the to store food owed to the church.
cloistered Lacock Abbey (open daily), See the Norman bridge – with two
founded in 1232 and gracefully original pointed arches but rebuilt in
converted into a home after the 16th- the 17th century, and enjoy a stroll
century Dissolution of the Monasteries. along the River Avon and the Kennet
Above Half-timbered houses lend charm to the It includes a museum (open daily) and Avon Canal or go for a trip on the
picturesque village of Lacock featuring the work of photography narrowboat MV Barbara McLellan
pioneer William Fox Talbot (1800–77). (Apr–Oct: Wed, Sat & Sun; Wharf Cottage,
VISITING BATH ª From Lacock turn left onto A350 BA15 1LE; 07503 445 393; www.katrust.org).
Parking to Melksham. Take B3107 to Bradford- ª Exit west on B3108, turn right on A36
There are car parks off Charlotte Street on-Avon. Cross the bridge, bear and left to Claverton Down. Turn left,
and Avon Street. Or use the “Park and right, and park by the tithe barn then right down Widcombe Hill into
Ride” and leave your car on the outskirts on the right. town. Cross the river and go left to park.
and catch a bus into the centre.
Tourist information
Bridgwater House, 2 Terrace Walk, 9 Bath
BA1 1LN; 01225 614 420; www. Somerset; BA1 1SU
visitbath.co.uk
With its golden-hued terraces around a vast natural amphitheatre, Bath
Thermae Bath Spa
Hot Bath Street, BA1 1SJ; 01225 331 is one of England’s most congenial cities. At its heart, the Roman Baths
234; www.thermaebathspa.com; and the Abbey are the most compelling of the many attractions to be
9am–9:30pm (last entry 7pm) daily appreciated on a stroll. Its maze of lanes lined with smart boutiques will
tempt shoppers; gastronomes will savour the range of great restaurants,
WHERE TO STAY and culture addicts will enjoy the year-round programme of festivals.
BRADFORD-ON-AVON
The Swan Hotel moderate A two-hour walking tour piazza is grandly overlooked by the
Stylishly refurbished rooms offset the From Avon Street Car Park, walk along tall façade of Bath Abbey 1 (open
traditional exterior of this cosy hotel, Broad Quay and Dorchester Street, Mon–Sat & Sun pm), mainly 16th-century
which has broadband and flatscreen past the railway station and up with a magnificent fan-vaulted ceiling.
TVs. There’s a good restaurant, too.
1 Church Street, BA15 1LN; 01225 868 Manvers Street to reach Orange To one side are the Roman Baths 2
686; www.theswanbradford.co.uk Grove. Turn left here down York Street (open daily), built on natural hot
for Abbey Churchyard. The small springs between the first and fifth
BATH
Apsley House Hotel moderate Below Pulteney Bridge, designed by Robert Adam, spanning the River Avon
Just over 2 km (1 mile) west of the city
centre, this stately home offers rooms
with four-poster beds. There is also a
garden suite and a good restaurant.
Newbridge Hill, BA1 3PT; 01225 336
966; www.apsley-house.co.uk
Leighton Townhouse
moderate–expensive
Three of the ten rooms in this
luxurious B&B near the city centre have
four-poster beds. Book in advance.
139 Wells Road, BA2 3AL; 01225 314
769; www.139bath.co.uk
Royal Crescent Hotel expensive
Stay in the best address in Bath – the
Royal Crescent. Rates are high, but a
luxurious stay is assured, and the facilities
and restaurant are rightly acclaimed.
16 Royal Crescent, BA1 2LS; 01225 823
333; www.royalcrescent.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


068-073_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 70 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 5: A Spiritual Journey 71


Assembly EAT AND DRINK
Rooms
No. 1 Royal BENNETT ST WALCOT S T RE E T LACOCK
R OYAL CR E SC E N T
Crescent B R OC K S T At the Sign of the Angel moderate
The Circus THE CIRCUS BARTLETT ST Open fires set the tone of this ancient
hostelry with five rooms. The restaurant
serves traditional British cuisine.
GEORGE ST 6 Church Street, SN15 2LB; 01249 730
GAY ST
Jane Austen BROAD ST GR EAT P U LTE N EY S T
Centre MILSOM ST 230; www.signoftheangel.co.uk
Pulteney
CHARLOTTE ST SQUARE NEW BOND ST Bridge BRADFORD-ON-AVON
QUEEN
UPPER BRISTOL ROAD
BRIDGE ST Mr Salvats Coffee Room inexpensive
A unique, fun coffee house (c.1700) that
NORTHGATE ST
offers hot and cold snacks and more
M O N M O U T H S T
GRAND
substantial dishes in “olde worlde” style.
PARADE
Theatre Royal WESTGATE ST Bath Abbey Town House, 44 St Margarets St, BA15
ORANGE GROV E
BARTON ST TRIM ST
CHARL ES ST J A M E S S T R E E T W E S T Roman Baths YORK STREET N O R T H P A R A D E R O A D 1DE; 01225 867 474; open Thu–Sun
BATH ST
The Tollgate Inn moderate
Thermae
First-class gastro-pub in a village east
Bath Spa
AVON STREET CORN S T M A N V E R S S T of Bradford, with a cosy ambience. The
menu offers British dishes with a Medi-
terranean slant. It also has five rooms.
G RE EN PAR K RD
0 metres 250 Ham Green, Holt, BA14 6PX; 01225 782
326; www.tollgateinn.co.uk
0 yards 250 L O W E R B R I S T O L R O A D DORCHESTER ST
BROAD QUAY
BATH
Sally Lunn’s inexpensive
The city’s oldest house and home of
centuries AD and displaying finds from Retrace the route to The Circus and walk the Bath bun brioche, this popular
the Temple of Minerva. The adjacent up Bennett Street for the Georgian eatery serves salmon and duck breast.
18th-century Pump Room was the Assembly Rooms 8 (open daily), built 4 North Parade Passage, BA1 1NX;
venue of an elegant salon during in 1769 with a plain exterior but 01225 461 634; www.sallylunns.co.uk
Bath’s fashionable heyday, and now sumptuous within. In the same Acorn Vegetarian Kitchen moderate
offers a range of refreshments, as well building, the Fashion Museum (open Classy vegetarian restaurant close to
as samples of the famous spa waters. daily) gives an entertaining overview of the Abbey. The menu is based on
Turn left and then right out of Abbey costumes and clothing through the seasonal ingredients, especially locally-
grown vegetables. 2 North Passage
Churchyard into Bath Street. At the ages. From here, head down Bartlett Parade, BA1 1NX; 01225 446 059;
end of this on the left is Thermae Bath Street, turning right and then left at www.acornvegetariankitchen.co.uk
Spa 3, a stunning bath complex George Street for Milsom Street, one of
opened in 2006, sporting a rooftop Bath’s main shopping areas. Bear left Below top left Nave and fan vaulting at Bath
pool. Turn right, past the Little into New Bond Street, turn right at Abbey Bottom Grand, impressive sweep of
Theatre, into St Michael’s Place, then Northgate Street and then left at Bridge the Royal Crescent, Bath
left and right to pass the 19th-century Street to Pulteney Bridge 9, the
Theatre Royal 4. Continue up Barton elegant shop-lined crossing over the
Street into Queen Square. Just past pretty River Avon, designed by Robert
the square, on the right, explore the Adam in the 1770s. To get the best view,
world of Jane Austen at the Jane walk down Grand Parade, past orna-
Austen Centre 5 (open daily). Austen mental gardens and back to Orange
lived at various addresses in Bath and Grove, then return to the car park.
set some of her fiction here. ª Follow signs for A4 towards Bristol,
At the top of Gay Street stands The turn off onto A39. Fork right to Compton
Circus 6, an elegant terrace designed Dando, turn left then right. Turn right to
by John Wood and his son (also John Woollard. Right onto A37, left onto B3130
Wood) in the 18th century. Note the and left at a thatched toll house. Follow
528 individual carvings on the frieze signs to the stone circles.
running along the buildings, including
serpents, theatrical masks and possibly
druidic and masonic symbols. From
here, Brock Street leads to the
grandest of Bath’s terraces, Royal
Crescent, the work of John Wood the
Younger, and fronted by a graceful
sweep of lawn. Have a look inside
one of the houses at No. 1 Royal
Crescent 7 (open Feb–mid-Dec).
068-073_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 71 20/07/18 7:44 PM

72 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


left at Draycott, back to B3135 and on
to Priddy. Fork right here for Ebbor
Gorge and Wookey Hole. Park on site.
q The Mendip Hills
Somerset
Running for some 40 km (25 miles)
and not rising above 325 m (1,067 ft),
the Mendip Hills are a comparatively
low-key range, but they present a stark
contrast to Somerset’s gentle, rolling
landscape. They are characterized by
Above Stanton Drew Stone Circle in its bare heathland over the higher areas,
delightful rural setting 0 Stanton Drew Stone Circle and deep limestone gorges riddled
Stanton Drew, Somerset with cave systems which invite
VISITING THE MENDIPS After Avebury, this is the second further exploration (see left). Cheddar
largest of England’s Neolithic stone Gorge and Wookey Hole (both open
The B3135 runs through the Cheddar circle complexes and, like Avebury – daily) can get busy and are both
Gorge which offers rock climbing, and unlike Stonehenge – it’s an somewhat overdeveloped, but
caving and nature walks (01934 742
343; www.cheddargorge.co.uk). Look unfenced site, the irregular-shaped there’s lots to do here, especially for
out also for authentic Cheddar cheese – rocks sprouting out of meadows children, and the caves are spectacular.
the production process can be viewed where cattle quietly graze. There are Unspoiled Ebbor Gorge, west of
at Cheddar Gorge Cheese Company three circles here, the largest at 112 m Wookey Hole, is an important National
(01934 742 810; www.cheddargorge (367 ft) contains 27 stones and is Nature Reserve and has some inviting
cheeseco.co.uk). Ebbor Gorge (with car
park) has several nature-filled walks –the aligned with a burial chamber known marked walking trails. The grassland
area is famous for bats, butterflies and as the Cove 500 m (1,640 ft) away, in areas are criss-crossed by dry-stone
mosses and lichens; carry on east to what is now a pub garden. Originally,
Wookey Hole (01749 672 243; www. avenues of standing stones led up to Mystic Glastonbury
wookey.co.uk). This has many indoor the circles. Many of the stones have
attractions that will appeal to kids. Nowhere else in England has
been damaged over the years, so the quite the same mix of history and
structure of the complex is not easy to New Age romance, religion and
WHERE TO STAY see. However, it remains a calming and superstition, magic and myth, as
mesmerizing site. A local myth tells that Glastonbury. Jesus’ uncle, Joseph
THE MENDIP HILLS of Arimathea, is said to have
Wookey Hole Inn moderate the stones are a wedding party whose visited here; the Chalice Well on
This Inn provides funky accommodation musicians were tricked by the devil Chilkwell Street (and Glastonbury
with a young Bohemian ambience. It into playing on into the Sabbath, at Tor) is supposed to have been the
also offers a great selection of zesty which point they were turned to stone. hiding place of the Holy Grail. In
Belgian beers. ª Return to B3130 west and fork left the grounds of the Abbey, it is
Wookey Hole, BA5 1BP; 01749 676 677; claimed that King Arthur is buried
www.wookeyholeinn.com on B3114. Turn right on A368 and turn alongside Guinevere. Above the
left at Compton Martin to B3371 and town, ley lines are said to cross
WELLS then right onto B3135, to the Cheddar on Glastonbury Tor.
Ancient Gatehouse moderate Gorge. Carry on to A371 east and fork
Quirky old hotel with nine rooms
(two with four-posters), some facing
the cathedral, and a popular Italian
restaurant, Rugantino’s.
20 Sadler Street, BA5 2SE; 01749 672
029; www.ancientgatehouse.com
GLASTONBURY
The George and Pilgrim moderate
Reputedly haunted and full of character
and history, this inn has been in
business for 600 years. Some rooms
have four-posters and there is a
pleasant bar for relaxing and eating.
1 High Street, BA6 9DP; 01458 831 146;
www.historicinnz.co.uk/glastonbury
Right The winding B3135 through the
Cheddar Gorge Far right The sublime
symmetry of Wells Cathedral nave
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


068-073_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 72 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 5: A Spiritual Journey 73















Above left West façade of Wells Cathedral
walls and are a vital habitat for e Glastonbury Above centre St Michael’s Church on top of
wildflowers, insects and wildlife such Somerset; BA6 9EL Glastonbury Tor Above right The romantic
as dormice and the peregrine falcon. A magnet for “New Agers” and those ruins of Glastonbury Abbey
ª From Wookey Hole carry on down seeking “alternative” lifestyles, medieval
the High Street onto Wells Road, Glastonbury is awash with legend and SHOPPING IN GLASTONBURY
following signs into the centre of Wells. religious symbolism. Close to its heart For genuine Clarks shoes often at a
near the Market Cross, lie the majestic discount, visit Clarks Factory Shop
w Wells ruins of Glastonbury Abbey (open (Clarks Village, Farm Rd, Street, BA16
Somerset; BA5 2RP daily), once one of the most powerful 0BB; 01458 840 064; www.clarks.co.uk)
England’s smallest city, Wells abbeys in the land, but razed in Street, south of Glastonbury.
has a cathedral that is one during the Dissolution of
of the crowning glories the Monasteries. The abbey
of early English Gothic dates mostly from the 12th EAT AND DRINK
architecture. Fronted by a and 13th centuries but a
swathe of lawn, its stately stone church was built here WELLS
west façade is a marvel as early as AD 705. To the The Good Earth inexpensive
This is the ideal place for a coffee or
of medieval statuary, and east, topped by the ruins of snack, serving wholesome, simple fare
the interior houses an St Michael’s church, stands such as soups, quiches, pizzas and
incredible 600-year-old Carving on the Market the cone of Glastonbury Tor jacket potatoes and takeaway items.
astronomical clock. Close Cross, Glastonbury – variously said to be a portal 4 Priory Road, BA5 1SY; 01749 678 600;
to the cathedral, admire the to the fairy kingdom, King www.thegoodearthwells.co.uk; open
daytime only; closed Sun
medieval Vicars’ Close, said to be Arthur’s stronghold, or whwere the
the oldest planned street in Europe, Holy Grail was kept. Climb up here GLASTONBURY
and the beautiful walled and moated for fabulous views over the Somerset Hundred Monkeys moderate
13th-century Bishop’s Palace, from Levels – reclaimed marshes. The In a town renowned for its hippy cafés,
whose springs the city took its name. world-famous 5-day Glastonbury this has a refreshing feel and serves
various mains as well as great cakes.
ª Follow the A39 southwest, turning Festival of contemporary music and 52 High Street, BA6 9DY; 01458 833
right at roundabout. Carry on past arts originated at Worthy Farm, 13 km 386; www.hundredmonkeyscafe.com;
Glastonbury Abbey to car park on left. (8 miles) east of the town. closed Sun evening
DAY TRIP OPTIONS From Salisbury, follow the directions to From Bath, take the A36/B3108 to
Salisbury and Bath are both good bases visit Old Sarum, Stonehenge, Devizes Bradford and the B3107/A350 to Lacock.
for day trips; staying at Glastonbury and Avebury – return via A361 and
enables visits to Wells and a trip into A342 for speed and convenience. Glastonbury and the gorges
the Mendips, with the opportunity for Beautiful buildings Staying at Glastonbury e, enjoy the
some walking or outdoors activity. romantic abbey ruins and a scramble
Explore the amazing architecture up Glastonbury Tor for the views. On
Salisbury and the stones of Bath 9, with its inspiring mix of to wonderful Wells w for a tour of
Learn about the prehistory of the area elegant houses and buildings, its the cathedral and adjacent sights,
in Salisbury museum 1, then see it museums and impressive range of and then a drive through the Mendip
for real at Old Sarum 2, Stonehenge shops and restaurants. The Roman Hills q via Cheddar, Ebbor and
3 and Avebury 5. Active families Baths are an essential sight. See too, Wookey Gorges, stopping off at will.
will have most fun in the outdoor sites Bradford-on-Avon 8 for some Anglo-
and might want to consider stopping Saxon and medieval treats and Lacock The A39 connects Wells to Glastonbury;
off in Devizes 4 for an exursion along Abbey 7 for its intriguing blend of follow the drive’s instructions in reverse
the Kennet and Avon Canal. medieval and 16th-century design. for the gorges. Return via A371 and A39.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


068-073_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 73 20/07/18 7:44 PM

074-075_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 74 30/03/2017 14:15
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 6 WALES Exeter ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
The Villages of
the Cotswolds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Cirencester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
Leeds
Liverpool
Manchester
ENGLAND
to Broadway WALES ENGLAND WALES ENGLAND WALES ENGLAND WALES ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Cardiff London Bristol London Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff
Highlights Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Plymouth
• Picture-perfect scenery
Enter a world of thatched cottages,
flower gardens and streams, framed
by the gentle Cotswold landscape
• A miscellany of museums
Explore a range of nostalgic museums
displaying everything from old
Leeds
musical instruments to cars and bikes Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Inverness Inverness
• Cotswold “wool churches” ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
Admire the late-Gothic architecture of WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
WALES
ENGLAND
the area’s magnificent churches, built Cardiff Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff
London
from the wealth of the wool trade Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth
• Art and antiques Plymouth Plymouth ENGLAND Carlisle ENGLAND
Discover the designs of the Arts and
Crafts movement that flourished here
a century ago, and browse the many
antique shops which grace the villages
Sezincote House and Garden, built in the
Moghul Indian style
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
074-075_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 75 Glasgow 30/03/2017 14:15 Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

76 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Villages of the Cotswolds

Quinton
From the heart of Gloucestershire to the edge of Worcestershire, this drive Pebworth Quinton
Pebworth
V a l e o f E v e s h a m
takes in some of the most enchanting villages and hamlets of the Cotswold Admingt
Admingtonon
Church
Church
Hills – mellow, dreamy vistas dotted with sheep grazing amid drystone walls. Wickhamford o f E v e s h a m Armsc
Armscoteote
Honeybourne
Honeybourne
A journey through the Cotwolds will reveal honey-hued cottages, thickly Bretforton Mickleton Ilmington
Mickleton
Ilmington
Bretforton
thatched pubs, and great mansions built by farmers and merchants trading HIDCOTE MANOR
HIDCOTE MANOR
GARDEN
V a l e
in what was once the finest wool in Europe. Many local wool merchants Wickhamford Asto Astonn GARDEN Darlingscott
Darlingscott
Subedge
showed off their wealth by erecting or improving rural churches and filling Subedge Ebr Ebringtonington Shipst
Shipston-on-
Willersey
them with grand memorials – those at Cirencester, Northleach and Chipping Willersey on-St
on-Stourour
CHIPPING CAMPDEN
Campden are among the most exquisite. There’s an abundance of quality Childswickham CHIPPING CAMPDEN Str Strettonetton
Childswickham
on F
on Fosseosse
BROADWAYADWAY
food and accommodation on offer, and also an array of independent outlets, BRO Broad Paxford
Paxford
Broad
Campden
galleries and workshops selling antiques and handicrafts. Broadw Campden
Broadwayay
Wormington Tow Towerer Dra Draycottycott Todenham
Wormington
Todenham
Low Lowerer
Blockleyley
Lemingtonon
Sno Snowshillwshill Block Lemingt
Manor
Manor
Batsfordord
Snowshill Batsf
Snowshill
MORETON-
Stanway MORETON-
Stanway
Bourtonton
Bour Bar Bartonton
IN-MARSH
Didbrook Taddington on the H IN-MARSH on the Hea
Didbrook
on the Hillill
on the Heathth
Taddington
Little
Hailes
Hailes s s Longbor Little
Compt
Longbororughorugh
Comptonon
Little
Evenlode
Evenlode Little
Rollr
Rollrightight
Chastletonon
l l Condic Chastlet
Condicoteote
Salf Salfordord
Temple
Donningtonon
Broadwellell
Winchcombe l
Winchcombe l Temple Donningt Broadw Adlestr
Adlestropop
Guiting
Guiting
Upper Swell
i i Upper Swell STOW-ON- Cor Cornwellnwell
STOW-ON-
THE-WOLD
Daylesford
Barton THE-WOLD Daylesford
Barton
Lower Swell
Charlton H H Lower Swell Oddington
Charlton
Oddington
Abbot
Abbot Upper
Upper
Hawling Naunton Slaughter Churchill
Naunton
Churchill
Slaughter
Brockhampton Hawling Lower Bledington Sarsden
Brockhampton
Sarsden

Lower

Bledington
GLOUCESTERSHIRE Slaughter Westcote Evenlode
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
Slaughter


Westcote
BOURTON-
Whittington
Whittington BOURTON- Lyncham
Lyncham
ON-THE-WATER
ON-THE-WATER
Evenlode
Above Thatched cottage in the village of Andoversford Notgrove Idbury
Notgrove
Idbury
Andoversford
Little
Chipping Campden, see p80 Shipton Little
Shipton
Rissington
Rissington
Hazleton
Foxcote
Milton under
0 kilometres 5 Foxcote Hazleton Clapton Windrush Great Milton under
Great
Clapton
Wychwood
Wychwood
Compton
Rissington
Windrush
Compton Rissington
Abdale
0 miles 5 Abdale

Hampnett
Withington
KEY Withington Hampnett Farmington
Farmington
NORTHLEACHTHLEACH
Drive route d d NOR Sherborne
Sherborne
Colesborne l l
Colesborne
Yanworth
CHEDWORTHTH
Elkstone
Elkstone CHEDWOR Yanworth Eastington
Eastington
ROMAN VILLA Chedworth
ACTIVITIES o o ROMAN VILLA Chedworth
Fossbridge
Syde
Syde w w Rendcomb Fossbridge
Rendcomb
Browse among the alluring antiques shops for which the
Calmsden
Cotswolds are famous s s Calmsden Coln Ablington
Winson
t t Winson
Coln Ablington
North
North
Take an aromatic tour around the perfume factory in Cerney
Cerney
Bourton-on-the-Water o o Arlington Bibury Coln St
Coln St
Arlington Bibury
Aldwyn
Aldwyn
C C Barnsley
Barnsley
Saddle up for a bike ride in the beautiful country around Daglingworth Baunton
Daglingworth Baunton
Chipping Campden
Stratton Quenington
Stratton
Quenington
Sapperton
Sapperton Ampney Ampney
Ampney
Ampney
Take a hike on the 160-km (100-mile) Cotswold Way Crucis St Mary
Crucis
St Mary
CIRENCESTER
between Chipping Campden and Bath CIRENCESTER Fair Fairfordford
Ampney
Preston
Coates Preston Ampney
Coates
St Peter
Fill your plate and support the Great British Pud at St Peter Metsey
Metsey
Siddington
Hampton
Mickleton near Hidcote Manor Garden Siddington Driffield Hampton
Driffield
Down
Down
Climb up the hilltop folly of lofty Broadway Tower Ampney
Ampney
South
South
Shorncote Cerney Marston
Shorncote
Cerney
Marston
Drive off the first tee of Broadway Golf club Meysey
Meysey
Cerney
Cerney
Wick
Wick
076-077_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 76 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 6: The Villages of the Cotswolds 77


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Quinton
Pebworth
Pebworth Quinton Admingt Start/finish: Cirencester to Broadway.
V a l e o f E v e s h a m
Wickhamford o f E v e s h a m Armsc Number of days: 2–3 days.
Admingtonon
Church
Church
Armscoteote
Honeybourne
Honeybourne
Distance: Around 90 km (55 miles).
Mickleton
Ilmington
Bretforton Mickleton Ilmington
Bretforton
HIDCOTE MANOR
GARDEN
GARDEN
Wickhamford HIDCOTE MANOR Road conditions: Mainly straight A-
V a l e Asto Astonn Darlingscott watch out for tractors and people on
and minor roads, sometimes narrow –
Darlingscott
Subedge
Subedge
Shipston-on-
Willersey
Willersey Ebr Ebringtonington Shipst horseback around unsighted bends.
on-St
on-Stourour
CHIPPING CAMPDEN
CHIPPING CAMPDEN
Childswickham
Childswickham Str Strettonetton When to go: In summer, some
on F on Fosseosse
BROADWAYADWAY
BRO Broad Paxford Cotswold villages can be overrun at
Paxford
Broad
Campden
Campden the weekends by tourists, day trippers
Broadw
Broadwayay
Wormington
Wormington Tow Towerer Dra Draycottycott Todenham and coach parties – it is best to try
Todenham
Low Lowerer and visit during the week.
Blockleyley
Sno Snowshillwshill Block Lemingt
Lemingtonon
Manor
Manor
Batsfordord
Snowshill Batsf Opening times: Museums and
Snowshill
MORETON-
Stanway
Stanway MORETON- attractions are generally open
Bour Bar Bartonton
Bourtonton
IN-MARSH
Didbrook Taddington on the H IN-MARSH on the Hea Above Hidcote Manor 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
on the Hillill
Didbrook
on the Heathth
Taddington
Garden, an Arts and Crafts closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
Little
Little
Hailes s s Longbor Compt are often open longer. Churches are
Hailes
Longbororughorugh
Comptonon
Little
Evenlode
Evenlode Little masterpiece, see p81
Rollr
Rollrightight
l l Condic Chastlet usually open until dusk.
Chastletonon
Condicoteote
Salf Salfordord
Donningtonon
Temple
Broadwellell
Winchcombe l
Winchcombe l Temple Donningt Broadw Adlestr Market days: Cirencester: Charter
Adlestropop
Guiting
Guiting
i i Upper Swell STOW-ON- Cor Cornwellnwell Market, Market Place, Mon & Fri; Craft
Upper Swell
STOW-ON-
THE-WOLD
Daylesford
Barton
Barton THE-WOLD Daylesford Market, Corn Hall, 2nd & 4th Sat of
Lower Swell
Charlton H H Lower Swell Oddington month; Stow-on-the-Wold: Farmers’
Charlton
Oddington
Abbot Upper
Abbot
Upper
Hawling Naunton Slaughter Churchill Market, 2nd Thu of month; Moreton-
Naunton
Churchill
Slaughter
Brockhampton
Brockhampton Hawling Lower Bledington Sarsden in-Marsh: Tue.
Sarsden


Lower
Bledington
GLOUCESTERSHIRE
GLOUCESTERSHIRE Slaughter Westcote Evenlode Shopping: Look out for antiques
Slaughter


Westcote
BOURTON-
Whittington BOURTON- Lyncham and handicrafts throughout the
Lyncham
Whittington
ON-THE-WATER
ON-THE-WATER
Evenlode
Notgrove Idbury area – including hand-blown glass
Notgrove
Idbury
Andoversford
Andoversford Little
Little
Shipton Rissington and hand-thrown pottery, jewellery
Shipton
Rissington
Hazleton Windrush
Hazleton
Foxcote
Foxcote Milton under and ceramics. Foodwise, expect
Milton under
Clapton Great Wychwood
Great
Clapton
Wychwood
Rissington
Compton
Windrush
Compton Rissington fine local beers, meats – especially
Abdale
Abdale

Hampnett
Withington Hampnett Farmington Below Early morning view of St James’ lamb – and cheeses such as the
Withington
Farmington
Church, Chipping Campden, see p80
famous Stinking Bishop.
d d NOR Sherborne
NORTHLEACHTHLEACH
Sherborne
Colesborne
Colesborne l l Major festivals: Chipping Campden:
Yanworth
CHEDWORTHTH
Elkstone CHEDWOR Yanworth Eastington Music Festival, mid-May; Olympick
Elkstone
Eastington
o o ROMAN VILLA Chedworth Games, late May.
ROMAN VILLA Chedworth
w w Rendcomb
Syde Fossbridge
Syde
Fossbridge
Rendcomb
s s Calmsden Coln Ablington
Calmsden
Winson
t t North Winson DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Coln Ablington
North
o o Cerney Arlington Bibury Coln St A few day trips can take in the very
Cerney
Coln St
Arlington Bibury
Aldwyn
C C Daglingworth Barnsley Aldwyn best of the Cotswolds region. Families
Barnsley
Daglingworth Baunton
Baunton
with children will appreciate the
Quenington
Stratton Quenington combination of the Roman museum
Stratton
Sapperton Ampney Ampney
Sapperton
Ampney
Ampney
Crucis
Crucis St Mary at Cirencester, Chedworth Roman villa
St Mary
CIRENCESTER
CIRENCESTER
Fair Fairfordford and the instruments, toy collections
Ampney
Preston
Coates
Coates Preston Ampney and model railway displays of
St Peter
St Peter
Metsey
Metsey
Siddington
Siddington Hampton Northleach and Bourton-on the-Water.
Hampton
Driffield Arts and Crafts devotees can take in
Driffield
Down the antiques shops, galleries,
Down
Ampney
Ampney
South
South museums and workshops at Stow-
Shorncote Cerney Marston
Shorncote
Cerney
Marston
Meysey
Cerney
Cerney Meysey on-the-Wold, Chipping Campden and
Wick
Wick Broadway. For full details, see p81.
076-077_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 77 20/07/18 7:47 PM

78 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

VISITING CIRENCESTER
Parking
There are plenty of car parks close to
the centre of town and Market Square.
Tourist information
Corinium Museum, Park Street, GL7 2BX;
01285 654 180; www.cirencester.co.uk
WHERE TO STAY
CIRENCESTER
The Fleece Hotel moderate
This rambling old inn at the heart of
town is an atmospheric place to stay.
Some rooms are on the small side, but
all are functional and pleasant. There is
a bar, a restaurant and a patio for drinks. Above The village of Northleach, built of traditional Cotswold stone
Market Place, GL7 2NZ; 01285 658 507;
www.thwaites.co.uk
1 Cirencester (closed Dec & Jan) inhabited from the
BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER Gloucestershire; GL7 2BX 2nd to 4th centuries AD. Vivid mosaics,
Chester House Hotel moderate This relaxed market town’s importance underfloor heating systems, plunge
This small, traditional-looking hotel has in Roman Britain – it was the second pools and the latrine, can be seen
a relaxed atmosphere with modern largest town – is revealed in the while audioguides fill in the history.
decor and genial staff. Rooms are all Corinium Museum (open daily; Sun The grounds make a nice picnic area.
fresh and airy, some with a four-poster
bed. Family rooms are also available. closed am). The town kept its wealth ª Follow signs for Yanworth, then for
Victoria Street, GL54 2BS; 01451 820 in the medieval era, as can be seen in Northleach. Park in the centre of town.
286; www.chesterhousehotel.com the huge church of St John the
Baptist – the south porch 3 Northleach
STOW-ON-THE-WOLD with fan vaulting dates from
The Limes inexpensive Gloucestershire; GL54 3ET
Simple Victorian B&B run by a friendly 1490. The church dominates This unassuming village has
young couple on the northern Market Square, home to one one of the finest Cotswold
outskirts of Stow, on the A424 (a of the biggest markets in the “wool churches”. The oldest
5-minute walk from the centre). There Cotswolds. Visit New Brewery Stone relief, parts of St Peter and St Paul
are six guest rooms and a lovely garden. Arts (Jan & Feb: closed Sun) for Corinium Museum date from around 1300, and
Evesham Road, GL54 1EJ; 01451 830
034; www.thelimescotswolds.co.uk shops, events and workshops. on the floor, brasses show
ª Follow the A429 (Stow Road) north merchants, with sheep, woolpacks
Stow Lodge Hotel moderate
Country-style accommodation in to Stow-in-the-Wold for about 8 km and many children. Look out for the
the heart of Stow, with a perfectly (5 miles). Turn left at the signpost for carved corbels (stone brackets) in
groomed garden overlooking the Chedworth Roman Villa, then continue the porch, depicting such images as
main square, good food, and a to follow the signs to the villa and the angels and a cat playing a fiddle. On
comfortable lounge with a log fire. on-site car park. the High Street, Keith Harding’s World
The Square, GL54 1AB; 01451 830 485;
www.stowlodgehotel.co.uk of Mechanical Music (open daily) is
2 Chedworth Roman Villa well worth a visit, displaying an array
MORETON-IN-MARSH Yanworth, Gloucestershire; GL54 3LJ of period pieces, ably explained and
Redesdale Arms inexpensive Nestled amid woods, this absorbing demonstrated on a guided tour.
This old coaching inn has cosy log fires site, discovered in 1864, displays part ª Take the A429 following signs for
and well-equipped rooms with clean,
modern bathrooms. Breakfasts are of the bath houses and dining areas of Stow-on-the-Wold and Bourton-on-
excellent and tasty meals are served a substantial Romano-British villa the-Water. Park off Rissington Road.
in the bar or restaurant.
High Street, GL56 0AW; 01608 650 308;
www.redesdalearms.com
Manor House Hotel expensive
Old but charming and well-maintained,
this hotel on the main street has period
furniture and modern fixtures. Staff are
courteous and attentive, and Mulberry’s
Restaurant rustles up first-class meals.
High Street, GL56 0LJ; 01608 650 501;
www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk
Near right St John the Baptist Church at the
heart of Cirencester Far right Chedworth
Roman Villa: dining room mosaics
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


078-081_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 78 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 6: The Villages of the Cotswolds 79


4 Bourton-on-the-Water
Gloucestershire; GL54 2AN
This classic, relaxing Cotswold village
nestles around a village green and
the gentle River Windrush, and has
something for everyone to enjoy. The
Cotswold Motoring Museum and Toy
Collection (mid-Feb–mid-Dec: open
daily) is a nostalgic wallow in the style
and technology of yesteryear; the
Model Railway Exhibition, has an
elaborate layout with more than Above left Picturesque bridge at the centre of
40 trains (Jun–Aug: open daily; Sep–Dec Cotswold wool trade. Look out for Bourton-on-the-Water Above right Typical
& Feb–May: open Sat & Sun; Jan: limited the stocks here, and the King’s Arms, Cotswold tearoom in Moreton-in-Marsh
opening); the Model Village (open daily), where Charles I spent a night in 1645
is a detailed 1: 9 replica of Bourton; during the Civil War; the following SHOPPING FOR LOCAL CHEESE
and the Cotswold Perfumery (open year, nearby St Edward’s Church was Cotswold cheeses are rightly renowned.
daily; 01451 820 698; www.cotswold- used as a prison for defeated Royalist In Stow-on-the-Wold pack a picnic
perfumery.co.uk) is a fascinating factory- troops after the Battle of Stow. from the cheeses, breads, pâtés and
museum-shop that makes its scents ª Continue north along the A429 for pies at Maby’s (Digbeth Street, GL54
1BN; 01451 870 071. For more than 50
by hand; tours are available. Moreton-in-Marsh; park on High Street. cheeses (including the award-winning
ª Rejoin A429, following signs for Stinking Bishop) and other local special-
Stow-on-the-Wold. Park in the town 6 Moreton-in-Marsh ities in Moreton-in-Marsh, try the
square or on A429 north of the centre. Gloucestershire; GL56 0AF Cotswold Cheese Company (High
Street, GL56 0AH; 01608 652 862;
This lively Cotswold centre is known www.cotswoldcheese.com).
Cotswold Antiques for its Tuesday Market – the county’s
The Cotswolds are one of the most largest outdoor market. A short way EAT AND DRINK
rewarding areas for shopping for on the A44 towards Evesham there’s a
antiques, though don’t expect to find collection of interesting places to visit. CIRENCESTER
many bargains. The main centres are Sezincote is an onion-domed stately Falcon Inn moderate
Stow-on-the-Wold, Moreton-in-Marsh, home built in the Mughal Indian style Traditional country pub serving a tasty
Chipping Campden and Broadway, range of locally sourced dishes.
but it’s always worth looking in smaller in 1810 (House: May–Sep: open Thu & Fri London Road, GL7 5HN; 01285 850
places, and look out for antiques fairs – pm, no children; Garden: Jan–Nov: open 878; www.falconinnpoulton.co.uk
local tourist offices should have a list. Thu & Fri pm). Opposite is the Batsford
Arboretum, a fabulous collection of BOURTON-ON-THE-WATER
exotic trees and shrubs (open daily). Mousetrap Inn moderate
5 Stow-on-the-Wold And just next door, families will enjoy Locally-sourced food is the speciality
Gloucestershire; GL54 1BN watching the gripping demonstrations of this 18th-century family-run inn.
Eight roads – one of them the Roman at the excellent Cotswold Falconry Lansdown, GL54 2AR; 01451 820 579;
www.mousetrap-inn.com
Fosse Way – meet at this Cotswold Centre (mid-Feb–mid-Nov: open daily).
market town, crammed with antiques ª Take A429 north out of town, left STOW-ON-THE-WOLD
shops, delicatessens and smart hotels. towards Batsford. Follow the signs Old Bakery Tavern inexpensive
Stop here for some window-shopping to Draycott, passing through the Delicious cakes and scones, also light
and a bite to eat, with pubs and cafés village, then pass through Broad lunches, all homemade.
Digbeth Street, GL54 1BN; 01451 832
surrounding the huge main square – Campden. In Chipping Campden, 172; www.theoldbakerytearoom.co.uk
once a busy market at the heart of the park on High Street.
The Old Butcher’s moderate
This highly rated brasserie serves
quality British fare, both traditional
and modern.
7 Park Street, GL54 1AQ; 01451 831 700;
www.theoldbutchers.com
MORETON-IN-MARSH
Tilly’s Teahouse inexpensive
Breakfasts and sweet and savoury snacks
are served in this friendly tearoom with
a courtyard for fair weather.
18–19 High Street, GL56 0AF; 01608 650
000; open daytime only
Left View of the countryside around
Stow-on-the-Wold



078-081_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 79 20/07/18 7:47 PM

80 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

7 Chipping Campden
Gloucestershire; GL55 6JE
This uncommercialized Cotswold village was one of the centres for the
Arts and Crafts movement that flourished in the Cotswolds at the turn
of the 20th century. It still has a vibrant craft movement as well as the
Court Barn Museum, devoted to art and design. The village is also
the start of the Cotswold Way, a 160-km (100-mile) walking trail to Bath,
and ideal for cyclists, who can explore the countryside on rented bikes.
Above Campden House with St James’ Church,
Chipping Campden Below Flower baskets A three-hour walking tour with early 20th-century stained-glass
outside the Eight Bells, Chipping Campden Start your walk from the High Street at windows, designed by local artist
the car park next to the old Market Hall Paul Woodroffe. Follow signs for the
VISITING CHIPPING CAMPDEN 1, dating from 1627. Walk through the Cotswold Way down West End Terrace
archway to the left of the Noel Arms and Hoo Lane, which becomes a foot-
Tourist Information
The Old Police Station, High Street, Hotel, and on to George Lane, turning path to Kingcombe Lane. Turn left here
GL55 6HB; 01386 841 206; left into Badgers Field. Pass through a then after about 100 paces, right onto
www.chippingcampdenonline.org kissing gate (designed to contain another path, also signed Cotswold
Cotswold Country Cycles livestock) into a field. The path cuts Way. This leads to The Common, an
Longlands Farm Cottage, across the field and over a stream with area of parkland with a path to Dover’s
GL55 6LJ; 01386 438 706; views of 17th-century Campden Hill 8, where there are benches for
www.cotswoldcountrycycles.com House 2, burnt down in the Civil War. just soaking up the views. The hill is
The path ends at Station Road, turn the venue of the “Olympick Games” –
WHERE TO STAY
left for a good look at St James’ Church originating in the 17th century, and
CHIPPING CAMPDEN 3. Dating from the 16th century, it involving sports such as wrestling
Eight Bells moderate is one of the finest Cotswold “wool and shin-kicking. Brass bands, Morris
Originally built in the 14th century for churches”. Note the sumptuous dancers and a torchlight procession
the stonemasons at work on St James memorials and Jacobean pulpit add to the fun, on the Friday after
Church, this inn has comfortable
rooms and an excellent restaurant. and lectern. Nearby is the Court Barn Spring Bank Holiday.
Church Street, GL55 6JG; 01386 840 371; Museum 4 (closed Mon), dedicated From Dover’s Hill, turn left onto the
www.eightbellsinn.co.uk to local art, design and crafts. Walk road, cross Kingcombe Lane and head
down Church Street, past a pretty down Dyers Lane. Follow Dyers Lane,
BROADWAY row of Almshouses 5 on the right, then bear left onto Park Road, which
The Broadway Hotel moderate built in 1612. Turn left into the High leads back to Chipping Campden’s
Timber beams and creaking floors add
character to this traditional hotel. Enjoy Street, and back to the Market Hall. High Street.
the friendly staff and big breakfasts. Continue along the High Street, Dover’s Hill lies on the waymarked
The Green, WR12 7AA; 01386 852 401; taking a detour down Sheep Street on Cotswold Way and is a great place for
www.cotswold-inns-hotels.co.uk the left, to visit the Old Silk Mill 6, a walk, so pick up route maps from
The Lygon Arms expensive once home to C R Ashbee’s Guild the tourist office. Cyclists can hire bikes
Stay here to enjoy luxury and old-world of Handicrafts and still dedicated to from Cotswold Country Cycles (see left).
charm. Try the first-class leisure facilities
and then dine in the Great Hall. craft products. ª Take the B4035 towards Shipston-
High Street, WR12 7DU; 01386 852 255; Return to the High Street and turn on-Stour and turn left to Ebrington.
www.lygonarmshotel.co.uk right at the Catholic St Catherine’s After the level crossing, turn left and
Church 7, a Gothic Revival building follow signs for Hidcote Manor Gardens.




K I N G C O M B E L AN E Court Barn STATION RD
Dover’s Hill
Museum
Almshouses
Market C H U R C H S T St James’
Church
Hall
BACK E N DS HIGH STREET Campden
H O O L A N E
House
St Catherine’s
D Y E R S L A N E
Church BADGERS
P A R K R O A D Old SHEEP ST
0 metres 500 GEORGE LANE FIELD
Silk Mill
0 yards 500
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150
078-081_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 80 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 6: The Villages of the Cotswolds 81


traditional pudding – at Three Ways
House in Mickleton.
ª Turn left out of Hidcote, then next
right to Mickleton. Turn right, then left
at the mini-roundabout onto B4632.
Park off Broadway High Street and
Church Street.
9 Broadway
Worcestershire; WR12 7DT
The elegant main street of this well-
preserved Cotswold village is lined
with immaculate stone houses, smart
shops and a few cosy pubs and hotels.
Above High Street shops in the well-preserved The Gordon Russell Museum (closed Above Looking north towards Birmingham
village of Broadway Mon) displays graceful furniture from Broadway Tower
designed by the famous local artisan,
Arts and Crafts along with metalwork and glassware. EAT AND DRINK
Britain’s Arts and Crafts movement Take the High Street east to the A44, AROUND CHIPPING CAMPDEN
flourished in the years around 1900, turn right and first right to Broadway Ebrington Arms moderate
especially in the Cotswolds. Inspired Tower (open daily). Built in 1799, this This Cotswold stone inn serves great
by the writing of John Ruskin and castle-like folly offers stunning views, homemade and locally sourced food.
reacting against industrialization, its displays of local history and a deer Ebrington, GL55 6NH (3 km/2 miles from
followers relied on traditional skills. Chipping Camden on the B4035); 01386
Its most famous exponents included park. It’s a good area for walking, too. 593 223; www.theebringtonarms.co.uk
artist and designer William Morris, Go south on Church Street to
furniture maker Gordon Russell and Snowshill Manor (Apr–Oct: daily; Nov: AROUND HIDCOTE MANOR
C R Ashbee, who designed jewellery Sat & Sun), built of Cotswold honey- Three Ways House moderate
and printed books. Examples of their yellow stone with an Arts and Crafts Award-winning restaurant (with rooms)
works can be viewed in museums in garden. The house is full of curiosities serving fabulous traditional and modern
Broadway and Chipping Campden. British food. It also houses the Pudding
from around the world, from clocks Club, dedicated to saving and raising
to cow bells, and from toys and the profile of the Great British Pudding.
8 Hidcote Manor Garden bicycles to musical instruments Mickleton, GL55 6SB (turn left out of
Gloucestershire; GL55 6LR and Samurai armour. Close by is Hidcote and right to Mickleton); 01386
There is no shortage of gardens in the scenic Broadway Golf Club 438 429; www.threewayshousehotel.com
the Cotswolds, but Hidcote (closed (Willersey Hill, WR12 7LG; 01386 853 BROADWAY
Nov–Feb; Mon–Fri) is one of the finest in 683; www.broadwaygolfclub. co.uk). Tisanes inexpensive
the country. It was created This tearoom provides cream teas
in 1907 by an American, as well as breakfasts and light lunches.
21 The Green, WR12 7AA; 01386 853
Major Lawrence Johnston, 296; www.tisanes-tearooms.co.uk
who designed a series of
“outdoor rooms”, each one Russell’s moderate–expensive
Modern restaurant (with rooms) with
following a specific style, excellent food – try fried sweetbreads,
separated by tall hedges Dover sole, and sticky toffee pudding.
and walls, and often with 20 High Street, WR12 7DT; 01386 853
exquisite topiary. Highlights 555; www.russellsofbroadway.co.uk
include the White Garden,
the Bathing Pool and the
informal Old Garden. Think Left The seemingly haphazard planting in the
about having lunch – and a Old Garden at Hidcote Manor Garden
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Northleach 3 and the engaging toy tour a mansion with a difference –
Cirencester and Stow-on-the-Wold are displays at Bourton-on the-Water 4. Sezincote in Moreton-in-Marsh 6.
good bases for exploring the area. In the afternoon, visit Chipping
Cirencester, Northleach and Bourton-on Campden 7 and Broadway 9 to
Romans and Toys the-Water are all linked by the A429. explore local arts, crafts, and design.
Families with children will love the
Roman Museum at Cirencester 1, Antiques and design Stow-on-the-Wold is extremely well-
Chedworth Roman Villa 2, the In the morning, browse the antique connected – the A424 goes to Broadway
exhibition of mechanical music at shops at Stow-on-the-Wold 5. Next, and the B4081 to Chipping Campden.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


078-081_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 81 20/07/18 7:47 PM

082-083_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 82 30/03/2017 14:15
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 7 WALES ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Through the
Chilterns
Leeds
Leeds Chalfont St Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND Giles to Henley- ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London on-Thames London Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Highlights
• Paradise found
Peek inside the sweet 15th-century
cottage where John Milton wrote his
masterwork, Paradise Lost
• History at large
Roam among sheep-dotted open
Leeds parkland and woods among the Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool
many historic buildings at the Manchester Inverness Inverness
Manchester
Chilterns Open Air Museum ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
ENGLAND
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND • Phizz-whizzing inspiration
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
London
Bristol London Fire up the imagination of adults and London
children alike at the fascinating Roald Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth
Plymouth Dahl Museum and Story Centre Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
• Perfect English villages
Enjoy the sturdy flint churches, half-
timbered houses and welcoming pubs
of these picturesque gems, nestling
among gentle hills and ancient woods
Springtime in the gently rolling countryside
of the Chiltern Hills
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
082-083_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 83 Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh 30/03/2017 14:15 Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

84 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Through the Chilterns

This drive begins just 40 km (25 miles) – but a whole
world away – from the turmoil of central London, in the
pretty village of Chalfont St Giles. It takes a route through
the Chiltern Hills, a designated Area of Outstanding
Natural Beauty. Through necessity, some stretches run
along main roads, but there are also lovely country lanes
with no significant traffic. The proposed stops along the
way are varied – grand, quaint and beautiful – while
the destination town of Henley offers Above Cobstone windmill, Turville, see p86
plenty to absorb the visitor for a day.
GREAT
MISSENDEN Chesham
0 kilometres 5 Prestwood
Speen Flaunden
0 miles 5 Little Chesham
Kingshill
North Bois Chenies
Radnage Dean Little
Missenden
Green
Stokenchurch Deanfield Naphill HUGHENDEN Holmer Penn AMERSHAM
MANOR
Chorleywood
WEST Street
WYCOMBE Hughenden Coleshill Rickmansworth
Piddington CHILTERN OPEN
Ibstone Penn
High Wycombe CHALFONT AIR MUSEUM
Bolter ST GILES
North End End Dilham Colne
Turville Seer Jordans
Lane End Green
Fingest Loudwater Chalfont West
Frieth Beaconsfield St Peter Hyde
Pishill Skirmett B UCKINGHAMSHIRE
Little Gerrards
Stonor Cross
Marlow Wooburn
Nettlebed Marlow Hedgerley
Fawley Hambleden Thames Cookham Hedsor
Bix Dean Farnham
Medmenham Royal
Highmoor Remenham Cookham
Cross
Dilham
HENLEY-
ON-THAMES KEY
Warren Row Drive route
Harpsden
Knowl Hill
Wargrave
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Chalfont St Giles to Henley-on-Thames.
Number of days: 2 days.
Distances: 56 km (35 miles).
Road conditions: Very good; some lanes can be
narrow; good signage with brown tourist signs.
When to go: From late May through to autumn.
Main market days: Amersham: Amersham Country
Market, Fri am; Henley-on-Thames: Market Day, Thu;
Farmers’ Market, 2nd Sat and 4th Thu of month.
Major Festivals: Amersham: Charter Fair (and market),
Sep 19–20; Henley-on-Thames: Henley Royal Regatta,
beginning of Jul; Henley Festival of Music and Arts, Jul. Above The Red Lion Hotel, Henley-on-Thames, dating back to the 14th century, see p87



084-085_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 84 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 7: Through the Chilterns 85


1 Chalfont St Giles 3 Amersham
Bucks; HP8 4JH Bucks; HP6 5AH
With a village green, duck pond, old There’s no stand-out attraction in Old
inns and beamed cottages, this has Amersham (www.amersham.org.uk), the
been hailed as “Britain’s most perfect heart of the town, it’s just very pretty.
village”. Follow a sign just outside See its almshouses, coaching inns,
the village to Milton’s Cottage (open half-timbered cottages and Market
Apr–Oct, closed Mon & Tue; www. Hall, topped off with a clocktower
miltonscottage.org), the 16th-century and holding the original town jail, and
home of poet John Milton. After maybe enjoy a nice lunch. Dominating
fleeing London in 1665, he wrote Broadway (the main street) is the flint
his masterwork, Paradise Lost, here. Church of St Mary, built in the12th
The cottage contains, among other century with 14th- and 15th-century
GREAT treasures, first editions of Areopagitica, additions. The Memorial Gardens and Above Milton’s Cottage, the poet’s
MISSENDEN Chesham Milton’s essay on free speech, and tiny River Misbourne are just nearby. 16th-century home, Chalfont St Giles
Prestwood Eikonoklastes, his riposte to Charles II’s ª Continue up High Street to A413.
Speen Flaunden defence of the Divine Right of Kings. Go right, then left at roundabouts, VISITING CHALFONT ST GILES
Little Chesham
Kingshill Drive towards Seer Green and turn following signs to Great Missenden.
North Bois Chenies Parking
Radnage Dean Little left at the sign for the Quaker Meeting Use main car park on right in Link Road. From A413, head down Pheasant Hill
Missenden
Green
Cottage and at Quaker Meeting House.
Stokenchurch Deanfield Naphill HUGHENDEN Holmer Penn AMERSHAM House. Enter the village of Jordan’s but 4 Great Missenden into Deanway. Free parking at Milton’s
bypass the right turn to the centre
MANOR
Chorleywood
WEST Street marked “Jordan’s village”. On the left is Bucks; HP16 0AL
WYCOMBE Hughenden Coleshill Rickmansworth WHERE TO STAY
a sign for Jordan’s Quaker Meeting Another appealing small town, at the
Piddington CHILTERN OPEN House (open Apr–Oct, closed Mon; www. head of the Misbourne Valley, its main
Ibstone Penn CHALFONT ST GILES
High Wycombe CHALFONT AIR MUSEUM
Bolter ST GILES jordansquakercentre.org), one of street is lined with lovely half-timbered The White Hart Inn inexpensive
North End End Dilham Colne England’s first and dating back to 1688. and Georgian buildings. For 36 years, This inn has 11 comfortable rooms with
Turville Seer Jordans en-suite bathrooms in a purpose-built
Lane End Green The meeting room, with oak panelling the children’s author Roald Dahl (1916–
Fingest Loudwater Chalfont West block. It has a good restaurant, too.
Frieth Beaconsfield St Peter Hyde and leaded windows, remains intact 90) lived and worked in Gt Missenden
Pishill Skirmett B UCKINGHAMSHIRE despite a fire in 2005. William Penn, and the “flushbunkingly gloriumptious” Three Households, HP8 4LP; 01494 872
441; www.oldenglishinns.co.uk
Little Gerrards the founder of Pennyslvania, who died Roald Dahl Museum and Story Centre
Stonor Cross
Marlow Wooburn in 1718, is buried in the graveyard. is a major attraction (closed Mon; www. AMERSHAM
Nettlebed Marlow Hedgerley ª Head up High Street and Pheasant roalddahl.com/museum). Here, visitors The Crown Inn moderate
Fawley Hambleden Thames Cookham Hedsor This Elizabethan coaching inn has a
Bix Dean Farnham Hill; go over double roundabout onto learn about Dahl, man and boy, see cool yet traditional style and featured
Medmenham Royal Vache Lane, then right down Gorelands where he wrote and admire artwork, in the film Four Weddings and a Funeral.
Highmoor Remenham Cookham Lane. Follow signs to museum. photographs, correspondence and
Cross 16 High Street, HP7 0DH; 01494 721
Dilham manuscripts in progress. With plenty 541; www.thecrownamersham.com
HENLEY- 2 Chiltern Open Air Museum to fire everyone’s imagination, a truly
ON-THAMES KEY EAT AND DRINK
Newland Park, Gorelands Lane, Chalfont whizzpopping time is guaranteed.
Warren Row Drive route
Harpsden St Giles, Bucks; HP8 4AB ª Follow A4128 towards Prestwood. CHALFONT ST GILES
Knowl Hill In an ambitious initiative, 30 vernacular Continue on this road towards High The Ivy House moderate
Wargrave buildings of past generations, typical Wycombe, then take a right, following Traditional inn offering classic dishes,
of this region, have been rescued signs to Hughenden Manor (last one is such as pie and mash, alongside signa-
and rebuilt here in a natural setting after a blind bend and easy to miss). ture dishes, such as pressed belly of pork.
London Road, HP8 4RS; 01494 872 184;
(open Apr–Oct; 01494 871 117; www. www.ivyhousechalfontstgiles.co.uk
coam.org.uk). Explore a 19th-century
farm with animals; wander through a AMERSHAM
village with a green, cottages, forge Gilbey’s moderate
and chapel; find out what a 16th- This bar and restaurant with a garden
serves modern British food such as
century wood-framed hall house is shoulder of Cornish lamb, and belly
really like inside, and peer into the of Suffolk pork. A three-course set
tiny Henton Mission Room, a “tin menu is served Mon–Thu.
tabernacle” made after the invention 1 Market Square, HP7 0DF; 01494 727
of corrugated, galvanized iron in 1882. 242; www.gilbeygroup.com
And, of course, pet the resident shire GREAT MISSENDEN
horse. Other buildings include a 1940s Nags Head moderate
prefabricated bungalow and cast- A 15th-century pub (with rooms)
iron public convenience from1906. aiming high and sourcing organic
ª Return to A413, turn right at produce. Try the rib of beef with an ale
jus; or veal kidneys flambéed in brandy.
roundabout and drive on to Amersham. Above Fountain in the Memorial Gardens, beside London Road, HP16 0DG; 01494 862
Follow signs for old town. Park on street. the Church of St Mary, Amersham 200; www.nagsheadbucks.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50
084-085_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 85 20/07/18 7:47 PM

86 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


6 West Wycombe
Bucks; HP14 3AH
West Wycombe’s main attractions are
found at West Wycombe Park (Apr–Aug:
open Sun–Thu; house open Jun–Aug; 01494
755 571; www.nationaltrust.org.uk). The
Italianate house is set in landscaped
gardens dotted with follies, statues and
ornamental lakes. The estate is also
home to the Hellfire Caves (Apr–Oct:
open daily; Nov–Mar: open Sat & Sun; 01494
533739; www.hellfirecaves.co.uk), excavated
in the 1740s on the orders of Sir
Francis Dashwood and running nearly
Above The gardens and rear of Hughenden 1 km (over half a mile) underground.
Manor, once Disraeli’s country home 5 Hughenden Manor See the Gothic “church” entrance
High Wycombe, Bucks; HP14 4LA and descend dank passages past
Time has not stood still at Hughenden chambers with portrayals of members
VISITING HENLEY-ON-THAMES
Manor, despite access up a steep, of Dashwood’s infamous Hellfire Club
Parking unpaved and rutted track (house, (1749–60). The final destination is
On the way in, follow signs to short-stay gardens and park open daily all year, except the “Inner Temple”. Here were held the
parking (maximum three hours) on Christmas; 01494 755 565; www. bacchanals of the club, whose
Market Street or Gray’s Road. nationaltrust.org.uk). The country home members included such luminaries as
Tourist Information of Queen Victoria’s trusted Prime the then Prince of Wales, the Marquis
Town Hall, Market Place, RG9 2AQ; Minister Benjamin Disraeli (1804–81) of Granby, and artist William Hogarth.
01491 578 034
has seen some alterations, but a few Despite tales of devil worship, the main
Thames Cruise rooms are as they would have been in activities were probably drinking and
To hire self-drive (or even chauffered) “Dizzy’s” day. The gardens recreate an pornography. Not suitable for anyone
motor launches for trips along the river;
or for a scheduled cruise, try Hobbs original design by his wife, Mary Anne. with claustrophobia, the caves are
of Henley on Station Road (01491 Mementoes, books and paintings bring reputed to be haunted by the spectre
572 035; www.hobbsofhenley.com the interior alive but low lighting, while of a steward of the Hellfire Club who
kind to furnishings, can be less kind to kept a tally of drinks consumed. On
WHERE TO STAY eyes. There are some beautiful walks in the hilltop above the caves stand the
the surrounding parkland with imposing Dashwood Mausoleum and
AROUND WEST WYCOMBE glorious views of the countryside. the distinctive Church of St Lawrence,
Frog Inn moderate ª Rejoin the A4128 towards High its tower topped by a golden sphere
Pretty family-run inn with attractive Wycombe. In town, follow signs to that is said to have served as a venue
en-suite rooms and rural views. The inn
is situated directly south of Fingest, A40 west. Turn left at Pedestal round­ for covert meetings.
close to Turville. Also serves good food. about to West Wycombe. After village, ª Take A40 through Piddington and
Skirmett, RG9 6TG (8 km/5 miles west of turn right, past caves entrance, turn left, signed Bolter End. Take B482 to
West Wycombe); 01491 638 996; for free parking. Fingest. It is possible to fork right here
www.thefrogatskirmett.co.uk
for the pretty village and pub at Turville.
HENLEY-ON-THAMES Below The “Royal River” running through the heart Otherwise turn right, then right again
Loch Fyne Hotel moderate of Henley-on-Thames onto A4155 to Henley­on­Thames.
In a listed, red brick former bakery
above the Loch Fyne Bar and Grill
(see right). Seven smallish, tasteful
en-suite rooms. Kippers for breakfast!
20 Market Place, RG9 2AH; 01491 845
789; www.milsomshotel.co.uk
Hotel du Vin moderate–expensive
This boutique hotel, part of a small chain,
has 43 luxurious rooms offering style,
attention to detail and bistro cooking.
New Street, RG92BP; 0844 736 4258;
www.hotelduvin.com
Red Lion Hotel expensive
This red brick 16th-century inn by the
bridge has 39 substantial, well-furnished
rooms, some with river views.
Hart Street, RG9 2AR; 01491 572 161;
www.redlionhenley.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


086-087_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 86 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 7: Through the Chilterns 87

7 Henley-on-Thames
Oxfordshire RG9 2EB
In its leafy setting on the Thames, this Georgian market town, famous
for its July Royal Regatta, offers a mix of the historical and fashionable.
A graceful 18th-century, five-arched bridge spans the river – a dynamic
and defining presence; beautiful, recreational and a haven for wildlife.

A one-hour walking tour fun Wind in the Willows Gallery.
From the car park, walk down Market Children will be enchanted by the
Street and cross Bell Street to Hart models of Mr Toad, Ratty, and Mole,
Street, dominated by the red brick faithful to the illustrations of Ernest
Victorian Town Hall 1, built in 1901. Shepard. Retrace the route to turn
Walk down Hart Street to the Church left onto Friday Street and right onto Above The 16th-century Church Loft with
of St Mary 2 with its 16th-century Duke Street, noticing Tudor House original clock, West Wycombe Below Old
stone and flint tower. The stucco 6, a venerable-looking antiques’ Granary, Henley-on-Thames
almshouses to the west date from shop – actually a pastiche built in
1830 and the red brick 1934. Cross Hart Street EAT AND DRINK
ones on the east were and go down Bell
originally built in the Street, where, on the AROUND WEST WYCOMBE
1660s and rebuilt in left, is the Bull Inn 7, Bull and Butcher moderate
This 16th-century real-ale pub, in
1884. Beside them is one of the oldest inns Turville near Fingest on the route
the Grade I listed Henley-on-Thames in Henley, with walls to Henley-on-Thames, serves dishes
16th-century Chantry House, sign up to a metre (3 ft) thick. It is such as rib-eye steak, cod in batter
overlooking the churchyard rumoured to be haunted by and hearty puddings.
Turville, RG9 6QU (9 km/5 miles from
(with Dusty Springfield’s grave) and the ghost of a young woman. Turn West Wycombe); 01491 638 283;
the river. At the bottom of Hart Street right onto New Street to pass the www.thebullandbutcher.com
look across the bridge (built in 1786) Kenton Theatre 8 (01491 575 698;
to the headquarters of the Henley www.kentontheatre.co.uk), opened HENLEY-ON-THAMES
Royal Regatta to the left and the in 1805, and the former Brakspear’s The Three Tuns inexpensive
Leander Club – the world’s oldest Brewery, opened in 1779 and now Warm town centre pub with a popular
pie menu, plus excellent beer.
rowing club – to the right. Turn right the Hotel du Vin. Turn right again 5 Market Place, RG9 2AA; 01491 4100
for a saunter down Thames Side, onto Riverside and once more, onto 138; www.threetunshenley.co.uk
passing the half-timbered Old Hart Street to return to the car park. Loch Fyne Bar and Grill moderate
Granary 3, located on the corner To extend the walk, follow the This popular restaurant and oyster bar,
of Friday Street. Next, go past the Thames Path from Thames Side part of a small chain, serves fresh and
Hobbs of Henley Boatyard 4, a south for 3 km (2 miles), crossing smoked fish, shellfish and meat options.
good place to start a motor launch the river at Marsh Lock to Shiplake. 20 Market Place, RG9 2AP; 01491 845
780; www.lochfyneseafoodandgrill.co.uk
trip or a cruise along the river. Head Or cross the bridge and walk 3 km
down Meadow Road to the River (2 miles) north to Hambleden Lock. AROUND HENLEY-ON-THAMES
and Rowing Museum 5 (open daily; For more walks and information, visit St George & Dragon moderate
01491 415 600; www.rrm.co.uk) with its www.nationaltrail.co.uk/thames-path. Cross the river and go south on A321
for 5 km (3 miles) to this riverside pub
offering pizzas, sandwiches and more.
High Street, Wargrave, RG10 8HY; 01189
Kenton 0 metres 250 404 474; www.stgeorgeanddragon.co.uk
K I N G S R OA D Bull N E W S T R E E T Thames R E M E N H A M L A N E 0 yards 250
Theatre
Inn
Church of
St Mary
Victorian
B E L L S T
Town Hall H A R T S T
G R A V E L H I L L DUKE ST W H I T E H I L L
Tudor House Old Granary
FR I DAY ST
Hobbs of
Henley Boatyard
STATIO N ROAD
G R E Y S R O A D R E A D I N M E A D O W R O A D W A R G R A V E R O A D
Thames
River and
Rowing Museum
S T . M A R K S R O A D G R O A D
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50
086-087_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 87 20/07/18 7:47 PM

088-089_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 88 30/03/2017 14:15
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 8 WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Exploring the
South Downs
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Beachy Head Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Birmingham
WALES
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham to Chichester WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol Bristol Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London Cardiff London Cardiff London London
Highlights
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
• Seaside Fun
Explore the shops, cafés and
museums of vibrant Brighton
• Enjoying the ups of the Downs
Walk along the South Downs Way – a
superb walking path with great views
Leeds
Leeds Leeds • Antiques paradise
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Hunt for antiques in the shops and Inverness Inverness
Liverpool
Manchester
ENGLAND galleries of Petworth, Arundel SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
ENGLAND
Birmingham
WALES
WALES WALES Birmingham and Lewes Birmingham
ENGLAND
Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London London • A treasury of modern art London
Country retreats, gardens, cathedrals, Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth
Plymouth Plymouth sculpture parks and galleries – see Carlisle ENGLAND
a wealth of novel modern art venues ENGLAND
• Wildlife wonderland
Spot flowers, birds and butterflies in
Cuckmere Valley, and waterbirds in the
Arundel Wildfowl and Wetlands Centre
Market hall and other historic buildings,
Weald and Downland Museum
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
30/03/2017 14:15
Glasgow 088-089_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 89 Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

90 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Exploring the South Downs

The great grassy humped back of the chalk downs, kept trim by sheep
and topped with the remnants of Iron-Age forts, forms part of the South
Downs National Park and is a beautiful area to explore at leisure. Along its
ridge runs the glorious 160-km (100-mile) South Downs Way, and around
its base lie scattered flint-stone farms, pretty thatched cottages and friendly
pubs. Although the main roads through the area can get busy, there is
a surprisingly remote country feel to the back roads, and the life of
bygone days conjured in its open-air museums doesn’t seem far away.

Billingshurst
Billingshurst
Woolbeding Easebourne Adversane Cowfold
Woolbeding
Adversane
Cowfold
Easebourne
Coolham
Tillington Coolham Shipley
Shipley
Tillington
PETWORTH
MIDHURST PETWORTH
MIDHURST
WEST SUSSEX
Selham Rother WEST SUSSEX Twineham Burgess
Selham Rother
Fittleworth Partridge Twineham Hill Burgess
Fittleworth
Partridge
Hill
Pulborough
Didling Pulborough Green
Didling
Green
Duncton
Bepton Duncton Plumpton
Bepton
Plumpton
Cocking Graffham Thakeham Ashington Ashurst Hurstpierpoint Green
Graffham
Hurstpierpoint
Cocking
Thakeham
Ashington
Green
Ashurst Henfield
Keymer
Sutton Greatham Henfield Keymer DITCHLING
Sutton
Storrington
Barcombe
Shortgate
Chilgrove Waltham Greatham Storrington Adur Adur Clayton DITCHLING Barcombe Shortgate Chiddingly
Chiddingly
Chilgrove
Clayton
Waltham
Westmeston
Washington
Bignor
Singleton Bignor Bury Bury Washington Westmeston Ouse
Singleton
Laughton
Hellingly
Poynings
West Dean Charlton AMBERLEY Chanctonbury Poynings Ditchling Beacon Ouse Ringmer Laughton Hellingly
West Dean
Charlton
Chanctonbury
Ditchling Beacon
AMBERLEY
Ringmer
Ring
Ring
270m
LEWES
Devil’s Dyke
WEALD AND DOWNLAND The Trundle S o u t h D o w n STEYNING Edburton Devil’s Dyke 270m LEWES Glyndebourne
Glyndebourne EAST
STEYNING
Edburton
WEALD AND DOWNLANDThe Trundle
199m
OPEN AIR MUSEUM Goodwood Eartham Upper 199m Stanmer EAST Hailsham
S o u t h D o w n s s
OPEN AIR MUSEUM
Stanmer
Hailsham
Eartham
Upper
Goodwood
SUSSEX
South Stoke
Glynde
Paycham
House
Beeding
Botolphs
West Stoke Lavant House Slindon South Stoke Findon Cissbury Botolphs Beeding Paycham Falmer Glynde SUSSEX
Slindon
Findon
West Stoke
Lavant
Pevensey
Kingston
Boxgrove ARUNDEL Ring Cissbury Portslade Falmer Kingston Selmeston Pevensey
Boxgrove
Selmeston
Ring
Levels
Levels
ARUNDEL Clapham
Rodmell
Charleston
Aldingbourne Clapham Portslade BRIGHTON S o u t h Rodmell Charleston Hankham
BRIGHTON
Aldingbourne
Hankham
Southwick S o u t h D o w n s Polegate
Southwick
& HOVE
BERWICK
Fishbourne Oving Eastergate & HOVE Woodingdean BERWICK Polegate
Fishbourne
Oving
Woodingdean D o w n s
Durrington
Shoreham-
Bosham Eastergate Arun Arun Angmering Durrington Lancing Shoreham- Wilmington
Lancing
Bosham
Wilmington
Angmering
CHICHESTER by-Sea Rottingdean ALFRISTON
by-Sea
CHICHESTER
ALFRISTON
Yapton Hamworth
Brighton
Willingdean
Chichester Dell Quay Merston Yapton Hamworth Goring- Worthing Brighton Rottingdean Willingdean
Merston
Marina
Marina
Newhaven
Chichester Dell Quay
Goring- Worthing
Newhaven
Littlehampton
Harbour North Littlehampton by-Sea Bishopstone Litlington
Harbour
Litlington
North
by-Sea
Peacehaven
Mundham
Itchenor Mundham Middleton Peacehaven Bishopstone Westdean
Itchenor
Middleton
Westdean
Eastbourne
Birdham Eastbourne
Birdham
Bognor
West Sidlesham Aldwick Bognor Seaford East Dean
West
Sidlesham Aldwick
Seaford
East Dean
Regis
Wittering Regis 0 kilometres 5
Wittering
Pagham Cuckmere
Pagham
Cuckmere Birling
Birling
East East 0 miles 5 Dieppe Haven Gap
Dieppe
Haven
Wittering Gap
Wittering
BEACHY HEAD
BEACHY HEAD
Selsey
Selsey
Selsey Bill Below The open road running along the base
Selsey Bill
of the South Downs near Beachy Head, see p92
ACTIVITIES
Go on a nature ramble in the Cuckmere Valley near
Alfriston
Cool off in the sea at Brighton or the Witterings
Breach the defences of Iron-Age hill forts at Steyning
Take a boat on the River Arun or Chichester Harbour
Go bird-watching in the wetlands of Arundel
Watch a dashing game of polo in Midhurst
Enjoy a day at the races at Glorious Goodwood
090-091_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 90 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 8: Exploring the South Downs 91


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Beachy Head to Chichester.
Number of days: 3–4, allowing for
half a day in Brighton.
Distance: Around 160 km (100 miles).
Road conditions: The roads are mostly
in good repair. Prepare for the steep hills
of the Downs, and be ready to squeeze
by other cars on the narrow roads.
Billingshurst When to go: The drive can be enjoyed
Billingshurst
at any time: spring brings perky lambs;
Woolbeding Easebourne Adversane Cowfold in summer the larks are rising, the sea
Woolbeding
Adversane
Cowfold
Easebourne
Coolham
Tillington Coolham Shipley tempting and the roads at their busiest;
Tillington
Shipley
PETWORTH
MIDHURST PETWORTH Above Sheep grazing on the upper slopes of the autumn delivers golden harvest days
MIDHURST
WEST SUSSEX
Selham Rother WEST SUSSEX Twineham Burgess South Downs, near Steyning, see p94
Selham Rother
Fittleworth Partridge Twineham Hill Burgess and winter bracing temperatures,
Fittleworth
Hill
Partridge
Pulborough
Didling Pulborough Green when pub fires burn bright.
Didling
Green
Duncton
Bepton Duncton Plumpton
Bepton
Plumpton
Graffham
Cocking Graffham Thakeham Ashington Ashurst Hurstpierpoint Green Opening times: Museums and
Hurstpierpoint
Cocking
Ashington
Thakeham
Green
Ashurst Henfield
Keymer
Sutton Greatham Henfield Keymer DITCHLING attractions are generally open
Sutton
Storrington
Barcombe
Shortgate
Chilgrove Waltham Greatham Storrington Adur Adur Clayton DITCHLING Barcombe Shortgate Chiddingly 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
Chilgrove
Chiddingly
Clayton
Waltham
Westmeston
Washington
Bignor
Singleton Bignor Bury Bury Washington Westmeston Ouse closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops
Singleton
Laughton
Poynings
Hellingly
West Dean Charlton AMBERLEY Chanctonbury Poynings Ditchling Beacon Ouse Ringmer Laughton Hellingly are often open longer. Churches are
Charlton
West Dean
Chanctonbury
AMBERLEY
Ditchling Beacon
Ringmer
Ring
Ring
LEWES
270m
WEALD AND DOWNLAND The Trundle S o u t h D o w n STEYNING Edburton Devil’s Dyke 270m LEWES Glyndebourne usually open until dusk.
Devil’s Dyke
STEYNING
Glyndebourne EAST
WEALD AND DOWNLANDThe Trundle
Edburton
199m
OPEN AIR MUSEUM Goodwood Eartham Upper 199m Stanmer EAST Hailsham
S o u t h D o w n s s
OPEN AIR MUSEUM
Hailsham
Stanmer
Eartham
Upper
Goodwood
SUSSEX
South Stoke
Paycham
Glynde
House
Beeding
West Stoke Lavant House Slindon South Stoke Findon Cissbury Botolphs Beeding Paycham Falmer Glynde SUSSEX Market days: Lewes: Farmers’ Market,
Slindon
Botolphs
Findon
Lavant
West Stoke
Pevensey
Kingston
Boxgrove ARUNDEL Ring Cissbury Portslade Falmer Kingston Selmeston Pevensey 1st and 3rd Sat of the month;
Boxgrove
Selmeston
Ring
Levels
Levels
ARUNDEL Clapham
Rodmell
Charleston
Aldingbourne Clapham Portslade BRIGHTON S o u t h Rodmell Charleston Hankham Brighton: Big Sunday Market, Brighton
Hankham
Aldingbourne
BRIGHTON
Southwick S o u t h D o w n s Polegate
Southwick
& HOVE
BERWICK
Fishbourne Oving Eastergate & HOVE Woodingdean BERWICK Polegate Marina, Sun; Arundel: Farmers’ Market,
Fishbourne
Oving
Woodingdean D o w n s
Durrington
Shoreham-
Lancing
Bosham Eastergate Arun Arun Angmering Durrington Lancing Shoreham- Wilmington 3rd Sat of the month; Chichester: 1st
Bosham
Wilmington
Angmering
by-Sea
CHICHESTER by-Sea Rottingdean ALFRISTON
CHICHESTER
ALFRISTON
Yapton Hamworth
Brighton
Willingdean
Chichester Dell Quay Merston Yapton Hamworth Goring- Worthing Brighton Rottingdean Willingdean and 3rd Fri of the month.
Marina
Merston
Newhaven
Marina
Goring- Worthing
Chichester Dell Quay
Newhaven
Harbour North Littlehampton by-Sea Bishopstone Litlington
Littlehampton
Harbour
Litlington
North
by-Sea
Peacehaven
Mundham
Itchenor Mundham Middleton Peacehaven Bishopstone Westdean Shopping: Arts and crafts (Lewes),
Itchenor
Middleton
Westdean
Eastbourne
Birdham Eastbourne antiques (Lewes, Arundel and
Birdham
Bognor
West Sidlesham Aldwick Bognor Seaford East Dean Petworth) and pottery (Amberley).
Sidlesham Aldwick
West
Seaford
East Dean
Regis
Wittering Regis
Wittering
Pagham Cuckmere
Pagham
Cuckmere Birling
Birling
East East Dieppe Haven Gap Major festivals: Charleston: Literary
Dieppe
Haven
Wittering Gap Festival, May; Lewes: Bonfire Night,
Wittering
BEACHY HEAD 5 Nov; Brighton: Brighton Festival,
BEACHY HEAD
Selsey KEY May; Arundel: Arts Festival, Aug;
Selsey
Selsey Bill Drive route Below Beachy Head Lighthouse at the foot of Chichester Arts Festival, Jun/Jul.
Selsey Bill
the spectacular white cliffs, see p92
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Brighton has plenty to enjoy: from
shopping, restaurants and museums
to its beach and famous pier. Then
head to the countryside, visiting
Ditchling for the Beacon’s views. For
those interested in art history, visit
Lewes, Charleston, Berwick and
Ditchling village for arts and crafts,
the work of the Bloomsbury set and
tea in the garden. Explore Arundel
with its antiques shops and castle,
river and wetlands centre. Head to
Chichester for the cathedral and a
Roman palace, boat trips or a visit to
the beach. For full details, see p97.
090-091_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 91 20/07/18 7:44 PM

92 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


1 Beachy Head 3 Berwick
Eastbourne, East Sussex; BN20 East Sussex; BN26 6SZ
The white chalk cliffs of Beachy Head, The ancient St Michael and All Angels
set against the deep blue sea, are an Church was decorated in 1943 with
awesome sight, as though the South paintings by Bloomsbury Group artists,
Downs have just been snapped off to Duncan Grant and Vanessa Bell, and
let the English Channel through. At their son Quentin Bell. The Bloomsbury
the cliff’s giddy edge, look down to the Group were avant-garde intellectuals,
lighthouse 162 m (530 ft) below. writers and artists who first met in
Above Picturesque exterior of the Tiger Inn The Beachy Head Countryside Centre Bloomsbury, London in 1905 to share
pub, Beachy Head (open Mar–Oct daily; www.beachyhead.org) their ideas. Other notable members
and car park has displays about the included writers Virginia Woolf and
VISITING BRIGHTON history and nature of the area. Lytton Strachey, critic Roger Fry and
A little way along the loop (coast) economist John Maynard Keynes.
Parking
Park in one of the North Laine car parks, road, stop off at Birling Gap for In 1916 Vanessa and Duncan moved
on Church Street or North Road, or in more wonderful sea views before to Charleston (open Mar–Oct; closed
Trafalgar Street, near the train station. continuing round and joining up Mon except Bank Hols & Tue; 01323 811
Tourist Information with the A259. West along the A259 626; www.charleston.org.uk), an
Town Hall, Bartholomew Square, is the Seven Sisters Country Park 18th-century farmhouse which
BN1 1JA; 01273 290 337; www. (www.sevensisters.org.uk); from the car became the set’s country meeting
visitbrighton.com park you can follow the footpaths place. Tours give an inspiring insight
along the tidal Cuckmere River as it to the group’s life.
WHERE TO STAY meanders to the sea, supporting a ª Head west on the A27, turn right
BEACHY HEAD variety of birds, butterflies and plants. through Glynde and past Glyndebourne,
The Tiger Inn moderate ª Head to the A259 and turn left. At the opera venue. At the B2192 go left
A quintessential English pub with five the Seven Sisters Country Park, turn for the A26 to Lewes. After the tunnel,
light and airy en-suite rooms. right (on a sharp left bend) past the turn left, and left again to park.
Gilberts Drive, East Dean, BN20 0BY
(take the East Dean turning off the small chalk white horse on the left and
A259 and continue through the village; through Litlington. Turn left down 4 Lewes
the pub is on the right); 01323 423 878; Lullington Road, signed to Alfriston, East Sussex; BN7 2QS
www.beachyhead.org.uk then left and left again. Park in car Tom Paine (1737–1809), “Father of the
LEWES park on left on way into village. American Revolution”, lived in this feisty
Pelham House moderate county town, which today has its own
Large and handsome redbrick house 2 Alfriston currency. Spend “Lewes pounds” in
with differently styled en-suite rooms. East Sussex; BN26 5TA galleries and craft shops such as the
St Andrew’s Lane, BN7 1UW; 01273 The most attractive village in Sussex Sussex Guild Shop (Southover Grange;
488 600; www.pelhamhouse.com
has a High Street of handsome old 01273 479 565). Get a taste of history in
BRIGHTON inns, shops and teahouses, and a large the medieval castle (closed Mon in Jan),
brightonwave moderate green with the medieval thatched which also houses the Barbican House
This small and friendly boutique hotel Clergy House (closed Thu & Fri) by the Museum stuffed with fascinating
by the sea epitomizes Brighton’s style. river. Pack a picnic from the excellent archaeological treasures, and walk
10 Madeira Place, BN2 1TN; 01273 676 deli in the old Post Office and Village down the High Street and across the
794; www.brightonwave.com;
minimum two-night stay at weekends Store for a stroll along the river. bridge to visit Harvey’s Brewery shop.
ª Backtrack north out of village, ª Follow signs for A27 (Brighton). Turn
but carry straight on to A27. Turn left onto B2123 to coast at Rottingdean,
Below The ancient George Inn, Alfriston, first left, then first left for Berwick, and and right onto A259, then Marine Drive.
licensed in 1397 Below right Straw bales on fourth left for Charleston, signposted At pier turn right, and follow “P” signs
a farm near Lewes, East Sussex after Selmeston. to North Laine car parks.













Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


092-097_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 92 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 8: Exploring the South Downs 93

5 Brighton & Hove
East Sussex; BN1
There is a lot to see and do in this city of old Brighton
smugglers’ lanes, Bohemian hang-outs, shops, BUCKINGHAM STREET Station North
Laine
museums, cafés and elegant squares. Time on the B U C K I N G H A M R O A D Toy and YORK P LACE L E W E S R O A D
TRAFALGAR ST
beach could easily make a visit last a full day. Model Museum KENSINGTON PLACE SYDNEY STREET
Two-hour city walk which goes to the ST NICHOL AS ROAD
Walk down Trafalgar Street under the Yellowave Beach UPPER GARDEN ST KENSINGTON STREET
forecourt of the train station to the Toy Sports venue and Q U E E N S R O A D N O R T H GLOUCESTER PLACE GRAND PARADE
and Model Museum 1 (closed Sun & café (closed Mon GARDEN ST
Mon; 01273 749 494; www.brightontoy Nov–Feb) and D Y K E R O A D REGENT ST R O A D
museum.co.uk) for some nostalgia, Marina. Back at the C H U R C H S T R E E T J O H N S S T R E E T
then continue to North Laine 2. Here pier, walk onto BOND ST
is a myriad of cafés and alternative the shore and Brighton PAVILION PARADE
shops. Go down the fifth right, Sydney head westwards N O R T H S T RE E T Museum E D W A R D S T R E E T
Street, and almost directly across into past the arches. It W E S T S T R E E T The Lanes Pavilion
Royal
Kensington Street and then Regent is the liveliest
Street opposite. Turn left at the end stretch of seafront, SHIP STREE T PRINCE ALBERT S T O L D S T E I N E O L D S T E I N E
into Church Street, past the Dome to with cafés, funfair K I N G ’ S R O A D S T J A M E S S T R E E T
Brighton Museum 3 (closed Mon except rides and the small EAST ST
Bank Hols), home to a great art deco Fishing Museum Fishing Sea Life MADEIRA DRIVE
MARINE PARADE
Centre
and fashion collection. Continue right 8 (open daily; www. Museum
into Pavilion Parade for the Royal brightonfishing Volks Electric
Railway
Pavilion 4 (open daily; 03000 290 901; museum.org.uk). 0 metres 250
www.brightonmuseums.org.uk), an Return to the 0 yards 250 Brighton Pier
Indian-styled folly built in the early road, crossing at
1800s by the Prince Regent (later the traffic lights to
George IV), with its lavish interiors. go down Ship
Cross North Street and follow East Street by the Ship Hotel. Take the first EAT AND DRINK
Street down to the seafront and turn right, doubling back along Prince ALFRISTON
left for Brighton Pier 5 (open daily). Albert Street towards the Town Hall. Wingrove House moderate
Enjoy the arcades and rides, explore Head left into the maze of alleys This relaxed yet quality restaurant in the
the Sea Life Centre 6 (open daily; known as The Lanes 9. Once an old smart, colonial-style Wingrove House
www.visitsealife.com) and ride the Volks fishing town, these are now full of has a sunny terrace as well as modern
Electric Railway 7 (open Easter–Oct cafés, pubs and shops. British cuisine that uses locally sourced
daily; www.volkselectricrailway.co.uk), ª Follow one-way system down North produce. Lovely rooms available too.
Laine to bottom of hill and turn left for High Street, BN26 5TD; 01323 870 276;
www.wingrovehousealfriston.com
A23. Pass to right of St Peter’s Church on
a huge traffic island, turn left then right LEWES
up Ditchling Road. After 6 km (3 miles), Rights of Man Pub inexpensive
at T-junction, go left and right to Burgers and other meaty treats plus local
Ditchling Beacon and village. Car park Harvey’s beer on offer at this ale house.
179 High Street, BN7 1YE; 01273 486
is just before the main crossroads. 894; www.rightsofmanlewes.com
Top left Jewellers in The Lanes, Brighton Below BRIGHTON
right Indian-style entrance to the Royal Pavilion, The Regency Restaurant inexpensive
Brighton Below left Brighton Pier and beach For excellent fish and chips, plus other
seafood, this is a great spot by West Pier.
131 King’s Road, BN1 2HH; 01273 325
014; www.theregencyrestaurant.co.uk
Chilli Pickle moderate
Stylish, award-winning Indian restaurant,
serving street food, curries and delicious
lunchtime thalis (platter).
17 Jubilee Street, BN1 1GE; 01273 900
383; www.thechillipickle.com
Terre à Terre moderate
Top vegetarian restaurant in The Lanes
with an eclectic approach to cooking.
71 East Street, BN1 1HQ; 01273 729 051;
www.terreaterre.co.uk



092-097_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 93 20/07/18 7:25 PM

94 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

WHERE TO STAY
6 Ditchling
DITCHLING East Sussex; BN6 8TB
The Bull moderate Before reaching this classic Downland
With four smart, themed rooms (with village, the road winds up Ditchling
en-suite walk-in showers), this cosy Beacon, at 270 m (886 ft) the highest
village pub makes a friendly place to point on the Downs with great views.
stay. It serves good local food, too.
2 High Street, BN6 8TA; 01273 843 147; The excellent Ditchling Museum of
www.thebullditchling.com Art & Craft (closed Mon except bank
hols; 01273 844 744; www.ditchling
AROUND DITCHLING museumartcraft.org.uk) features the
Blackberry Wood inexpensive work of local artists and craftspeople
An idyllic rural campsite with pitches in
woodland glades 5 km (3 miles) east of who lived in the village, including
Ditchling. As well as normal pitches, Eric Gill (1892–1940), sculptor and
you can rent a gypsy caravan, a tree designer of the Gill Sans typeface, Above View of the rolling green countryside of
house, a bus and a helicopter. and Edward Johnston (1872–1944), Sussex, from Ditchling Beacon
Streat Lane, BN6 8RS (take Lewes Road creator of the London Underground
from Ditchling through Westmeston
then fourth on the left); 01273 890 035; typeface. More art is on show at the largest in England, dating from c. 300
www.blackberrywood.com Turner Dumbrell Workshops, on BC, and Chanctonbury Ring, marked
the High Street, where work can be by a beech copse. A round route from
AMBERLEY bought directly from artists’ studios. Steyning will take about 4 hours,
Amberley Castle expensive Afterwards pop into the Bull pub for although Cissbury can be reached in
Spend a noble night in this fantastic a pint on the grassy terrace (see left). under an hour and Chanctonbury can
castle with walled gardens. Four posters,
of course, jacket-and-tie fine dining and ª Go west along West Street/B2116 to be more easily conquered up an easy
a portcullis that closes at midnight – so Hurstpierpoint, then south on the B2117, track, a short drive west, off the A283.
no returning late from the pub. over the A23 and right on the A281 into ª Continue west along the A283
BN18 9LT; 01798 831 992; a left-hand bend. At Henfield, turn left (passing Chanctonbury Lane on the
www.amberleycastle.co.uk
on the A2037 all the way to the A283 left). At the roundabout, just after
ARUNDEL (skirting Upper Beeding) and turn left Storrington, take the second exit onto
The Swan Hotel moderate to Steyning. Park on the street. the B2139 to Amberley. Park on street.
There are 14 en-suite rooms with a
smart, chic vibe at this 18th-century 7 Steyning 8 Amberley
inn. A great central location too, at the West Sussex; BN44 3YE West Sussex; BN18 9LT
bottom of the High Street.
27–29 High Street, BN18 9AG; 01903 882 Half-timbered and quaint, Steyning This small village of honey-coloured
314; www.swanarundel.co.uk is a typical Downs market town and cottages is one of the prettiest in
worth a stop for a stroll and some Sussex. Amberley Village Pottery
Below Pretty thatched cottage at Amberley, tea in the Steyning Tea Rooms in (closed Wed), in an old chapel in Church
West Sussex the High Street. Take a look in The Street, is where Caroline Seaton makes
Dollshouse Shop (closed Sun & Mon) pots in Amberley Blue, a deep-coloured
and don’t miss the handsome glaze which she developed in 1964.
Norman church. The town is a great Amberley Castle is actually a manor
base for walks to the Iron-Age hill house and has been turned into an
forts of Cissbury Ring, the second impressive hotel (see left). There is a
Below The Steyning Tea Rooms in the old market town of Steyning, West Sussex


















Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


092-097_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 94 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 8: Exploring the South Downs 95


useful village shop near the Black
Horse pub. Several hours can be
spent at Amberley Museum &
Heritage Centre (open mid-Mar–early
Nov: Wed–Sun; daily during school summer
holidays; 01798 831 370; www.amberley
museum.co.uk) in a nearby former chalk
pit where there are displays of historic
transport, old lime kilns and crafts-
people including clay pipe makers.
ª Continue along the B2139 to join
the A284 to Arundel. Park by the river
on Mill Road, opposite castle entrance.
Above Dominating the skyline, the turrets
designed by “Capability” Brown. The and towers of Arundel Castle
house holds the National Trust’s
biggest art collection, with works
by J M W Turner. The town is known EAT AND DRINK
as an antiques centre. In the High
Street is a delightful museum, AMBERLEY
Petworth Cottage (Apr–Oct: open The Bridge Inn inexpensive
Above An example of a half-timbered house, Tue–Sat & Bank Hol Mon, pm only), Log fires in winter and a garden patio
in summer makes this atmospheric
Petworth, West Sussex kept in a time warp at 1910, when pub a great option any time of year.
it was occupied by Mary Cummings, Terrific food and drinks, and regular
9 Arundel a local seamstress. live music.
West Sussex; BN18 9AB ª Take the A272 to Midhurst. There Houghton Bridge, BN18 9LR; 01798
831 619; www.bridgeinnamberley.
Dating from the Norman conquest is a car park on the left as the road co.uk
but largely Victorian, Arundel Castle enters town, or park on Main Street.
(open Apr–Oct; closed Mon except in Aug & ARUNDEL
Bank Hols; www.arundelcastle.org) domi- The South Downs Way The Black Rabbit moderate
nates this pleasant market town of This walking route runs for more than The beautiful setting beside the River
Arun with views across to the castle
antiques shops and tearooms – one 160 km (100 miles) along the ridge made this pub famous.
of the oldest is 16th-century Belinda’s of the Downs from Eastbourne to Mill Road, BN18 9PB; 01903 882 828;
in Tarrant Street. Hire a motor boat for Winchester in Hampshire. It takes 6–9 www.theblackrabbitarundel.co.uk
a cruise on the River Arun from The days to complete, but can be done in The Town House moderate
stages at weekends. The route is a
Waterside Tea Garden (open Mar–Oct). bridleway, so horse riders and cyclists Dine under a splendid Renaissance
Continue on Mill Road to Swanbourne enjoy it too. Footprints of Sussex ceiling at this fine-dining restaurant
Lake and hire a rowing boat before does self-guided holidays (01903 813 offering delicious dishes such as
roasted partridge with game chips.
visiting Swanbourne Lodge Tea Rooms 381; www.footprintsofsussex.co.uk). 65 High Street, BN18 9AJ; 01903 883
for a cream tea. Glide through water- For shorter loop walks, see www. 847; www.thetownhouse.co.uk;
nationaltrail.co.uk/south-downs-way
ways on a boat at the Arundel closed Sun & Mon
Wildfowl and Wetlands Centre (open
daily). Bignor Roman Villa (open Mar–
Oct; www.bignorromanvilla.co.uk), 9 km
(6 miles) north of town, is worth a visit.
ª Return up A284, then A29 towards
Pulborough. At Bury Hill turn left to
Bignor (signed) and carry on past
Roman Villa and Sutton to A285. Turn
right to Petworth and central car park.
0 Petworth
West Sussex; GU28 OAE
Petworth town is dominated by the
vast Petworth House and Park (open
daily) whose extensive grounds were
Right An antiques shop on the steep
High Street, Arundel
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


092-097_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 95 20/07/18 7:25 PM

96 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Glorious Goodwood
This huge estate encompasses a
motor-racing circuit, aerodrome and
“Glorious Goodwood”, a flat-racing
course. The grounds also include a
golf course, the Richmond Arms,
and the elegant Goodwood Park
Hotel. Art lovers are not forgotten
either, with a great collection of
paintings at the 18th-century
Goodwood House and the separately
run Cass Sculpture Foundation, a
woodland space with monumental
pieces (www.goodwood.com).

w Weald and Downland
Above left In the heart of the market town of Open Air Museum
Midhurst, West Sussex Above right Modern q Midhurst Singleton, West Sussex; PO18 OEU
art in the woods, Cass Sculpture Foundation West Sussex; GU29 9DS Allow at least three hours to explore
This attractive half-timbered market the ancient buildings of this excellent
town, with more than 100 listed museum (open daily; 01243 811 348;
buildings, has a broad main street, www.wealddown.co.uk). Displays of
VISITING CHICHESTER plenty of pubs and some top-class traditional agricultural methods and
Parking hotels. The distinctive yellow crafts – with steam tractors and shire
There are five city-centre long-stay car paintwork on some houses shows horses – bring the rural past to life.
parks and several short-stay car parks that they belong to the Cowdray Next door, along the A286, the
just a few minutes’ walk from the centre. Estate (open mid-May–Aug: Sat, Sun award-wining West Dean Estate
Tourist Information & Bank Hol Mon, pm only; www.cowdray. Gardens (open daily) include a fine
Town: Inside the Novium Museum, co.uk). The estate includes the kitchen garden and extensive
Tower Street, PO19 1QH; 01243 775 888; Cowdray Ruins, a Tudor mansion Victorian glasshouses. Nearby, the
www.visitchichester.org
built in 1520 and partially destroyed vast grounds of Goodwood offer
Boat Trips by fire in 1793, as well as a farm shop much of interest (see above).
Book tickets from Chichester Harbour and holiday cottages. Check for ª Continue past the museum
Water Tours (01243 670 504; www. fixtures of Cowdray Park Polo Club towards Goodwood. At a tight left-
chichesterharbour watertours.co.uk)
and Chichester Ship Canal (01243 (mid-May–mid-Sep). hand bend, a cul-de-sac on the right
771 363; www.chichestercanal.org.uk). ª Head out of town on the A286 leads to The Trundle, with great views.
towards Chichester. After the village Go past Goodwood racecourse and
WHERE TO STAY of Singleton turn left to the Weald and House, turning left on the A286 to
Downland Museum (signed). Chichester. Park in the town centre.
MIDHURST
The Spread Eagle Hotel and Below The boat house at Bosham, one of the inlets of Chichester Harbour
Health Spa moderate–expensive
For top-class pampering, try this hotel
and spa. It is comfortable and modern,
yet still maintains its Tudor roots.
South Street, GU29 9NH; 01730 816
911; www.hshotels.co.uk
AROUND CHICHESTER
Musgrove House moderate
Super-friendly B&B with stylish,
contemporary rooms, a 15-minute
walk from the centre. Breakfast
includes locally sourced bacon and
sausages, and homemade jams.
63 Oving Road, PO19 7EN; 01243 790
179; www.musgrovehouse.co.uk
Millstream Hotel expensive
In a lovely spot, with a garden and a
excellent restaurant serving innovative
modern dishes, this small hotel offers
apartments as well as B&B rooms.
Bosham, PO18 8HL; 01243 573 234;
www.millstreamhotel.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


092-097_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 96 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 8: Exploring the South Downs 97
















Above left Traditional beach huts at sandy
e Chichester Fitzalan, 10th Earl of Arundel, with his West Wittering Above right Surfer
West Sussex; PO19 1NB wife, Eleanour of Lancaster, inspired negotiating the pebbles at East Wittering
This peaceful county town is centred Philip Larkin’s 1956 poem An Arundel
on a market cross from which North, Tomb, which can be read alongside it. EAT AND DRINK
South, West and East streets radiate. Finally, the Novium Museum (closed
The Festival and Minerva Theatres Sun Mar–Nov; 01243 775 888; www. AROUND MIDHURST
(www.cft.org.uk; 01243 781 312) are thenovium.org), is a local history Horse Guards Inn moderate
renowned, and Pallant House Gallery museum built above the remains of Great pub serving locally sourced food,
(closed Mon except Bank Hols), is a superb a Roman bathhouse. with a cosy, shabby-chic interior and an
modern art gallery. Don’t miss There’s also much to see just outside idyllic garden with hay-bale seating and
deckchairs. Three rooms also available.
Chichester Cathedral, consecrated in Chichester. Head west on the A27 and Upperton Road, Tillington, GU28 9AF;
1108, with John Piper’s dramatic 1966 turn left on the A259 for the impressive 01798 342 332; www.thehorseguards
altar tapestry and Marc Chagall’s mosaics of Fishbourne Roman Palace inn.co.uk; open daily lunch and dinner
striking stained-glass window (1978). (Feb–mid-Dec: open daily; mid-Dec–Jan: CHICHESTER
The recumbent figure of Richard open Sat & Sun). Further along the A259 St Martin’s Organic Coffee House
lies Bosham, one of the many inlets of inexpensive
Chichester Harbour. Bosham has a Homemade snacks, soups and cakes
pretty Saxon church; the supposed are served in this friendly café. There is
burial place of King Cnut’s daughter, a garden and a nice log fire in winter.
3 St Martins Street, PO19 1NP; 01243 786
the church is depicted in the Bayeux 715; www.organiccoffeehouse.co.uk;
Tapestry and is one of the oldest open in daytime only; closed Sun & Mon
Christian sites in Sussex. The harbour Purchases Bar & Restaurant moderate
inlets are in an Area of Outstanding Smart, but unpretentious, restaurant
Natural Beauty, one of the best boating serving high end fare such as beef
areas on the south coast, so consider Wellington and rabbit saddle.
taking a boat trip for the scenery or 31 North Street, PO19 1LX; 01243 771
444; www.purchasesrestaurant.co.uk;
birdlife (see left). Other inlets can be closed Sun dinner
reached by heading south from
Chichester on the A286 to charming AROUND CHICHESTER
Dell Quay and Itchenor. Finish a tour Anchor Bleu inexpensive
of these wet flatlands with a walk on Good, home-cooked food and real
the sandy beach at West Wittering ales in a friendly pub with a terrace,
overlooking the harbour.
Above The tapestry designed by John Piper, or the more pebbly one at East The High Street, Bosham, PO18 8LS;
Chichester Cathedral Wittering, a short drive to the south. 01243 573 956; www.anchorbleu.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS up Ditchling Beacon 6 for views and Follow the drive route in reverse.
Explore the area from buzzy Brighton, down to the village for tea.
arty Lewes or pretty Arundel. Historic Waterland
Follow the drive route to Ditchling. Explore Arundel 9 with its castle,
Town and Country antiques shops and wetlands centre.
Spend the morning in Brighton 5 Arts and crafts Or head to Chichester e for the
with its museums, arty shops, In Lewes 4, browse the galleries cathedral, ancient Roman mosaics and
restaurants and exotic Royal Pavilion. and crafts shops before heading over a boat trip or a walk on the beach.
There’s plenty for children, with a pier, to Charleston and Berwick 3 to see
aquarium and mini-railway. Then drive the Bloomsbury circle’s art. Follow the A27.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


092-097_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 97 20/07/18 7:25 PM

098-099_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 98 30/03/2017 14:15
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro