(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Great Britain

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 9 WALES ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
The Garden
of England
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Ashdown Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Forest to Birmingham Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Birmingham
WALES WALES WALES WALES
Battle
Cardiff London Bristol London Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Highlights
• Wildlife and wilderness
Spot the natural flora and fauna of
Ashdown Forest, Dungeness, Rye
Nature Reserve and Bewl Water
• Produce from the garden
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool Sample fruit-rich jams, saltmarsh lamb,
Manchester Manchester Inverness Inverness
hoppy ales, wine, cider and smoked fish
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham • Medieval Winchelsea
ENGLAND
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Walk around the gridded streets of Glasgow Edinburgh
Bristol
this ancient town with vaulted cellars
Newcastle Newcastle
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
• Gardens in bloom ENGLAND ENGLAND
Relax at Great Dixter and Sissinghurst,
two of Britain’s most celebrated gardens
• Film-set castles
Storm the bastions of the South Coast,
the mighty Scotney and Bodiam castles
Shady picnic spot with a view over the high
heathland of Ashdown Forest
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
098-099_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 99
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh 30/03/2017 14:15 Glasgow Edinburgh
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

100 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Garden of England

Between the North Downs and the coast, this itinerary starts in Ashdown
Forest and loops through winding river valleys to the flat wetlands of
Romney Marsh and back up to the forests of the High Weald and Bewl
Water. The roads twist and turn, diving through woodland and opening
into farmlands – so often there are wonderful and unexpected views.
Weatherboard villages, elegant windmills, distinctive oast houses and
handsome hall houses make it one of Britain’s most architecturally diverse
regions. Called the Garden of England for its orchards of
fruit trees and farmland bursting with produce,
the area also contains some of the finest
and most original gardens in Maidstone
Maidstone
the country. Mereworth Teston Len Len
Mereworth
West Farleigh
West West Teston West Farleigh Leeds Leeds Lenham
Peckham
Shipbourne Peckham
Shipbourne Loose Langley Langley Lenham
YALDING
Ide Hill Ide Hill Sevenoaks YALDING Loose
Sevenoaks
Coxheath
Weald Weald Hadlow Hadlow East Coxheath Sutton
Hildenborough
Hildenborough East Linton Linton Sutton Valence Charing Charing
Peckham
Valence
Four Elms Peckham
Westwell
Chiddingstone
Medway
Four Elms Chiddingstone Medway Westwell Wye
Causeway
Tonbridge
Edenbridge Causeway Tonbridge Beltring Egerton Egerton Wye
Little Chart
Edenbridge Chiddingstone Leigh Beltring Beult Beult Little Chart
PLUCKLEY
Kennington
Chiddingstone Leigh Paddock Wood PLUCKLEY Kennington
Hever
Hothfield
Headcorn
Lingfield Hever Bidborough Tudeley Tudeley Paddock Wood Marden Marden Headcorn Smarden Hothfield
PENSHURST Bidborough
Lingfield PENSHURST KENT Staplehurst Smarden Bell Ashford
Bell
Willesborough
Matfield
KENT
Stowting
Southborough
Markbeech
Markbeech Southborough Matfield Brenchley Staplehurst Smarden Ashford Willesborough Stowting
Brabourne
Frittenden
Cowden Speldhurst Pembury Brenchley Frittenden Smarden Great Great Brabourne
Cowden Speldhurst Pembury Horsmonden Bethersden Chart
Horsmonden
Bethersden Chart
Felbridge
Felbridge Royal SISSINGHURST Smeeth Smeeth Sellingde
GOUDHURST SISSINGHURST
Kingsnorth
Biddenden
East Grinstead Langton Royal Tunbridge Wells GOUDHURST Biddenden Kingsnorth Sellingde Stanford
Green Tunbridge Wells
East Grinstead Langton Stanford
Shadoxhurst
Green High Shadoxhurst Aldington
Lamberhurst
Groombridge
Upper Groombridge Lamberhurst Finchcocks High Haldon Aldington Saltwood
Haldon
Upper Finchcocks Cranbrook Saltwood
Hartfield
Hartfield
Woodchurch
Scotney Castle
Blisington
Forest Row Hartfield Frant Frant Scotney Castle Hartley Hartley Cranbrook Woodchurch Blisington Lympne Lympne Sandgate
Forest Row Hartfield
Sandgate
HYTHE
Royal Military Canal
TENTERDEN
BEWL WATER
ASHDOWN
ASHDOWN Coleman’s BEWL WATER Bedgebury Benenden TENTERDEN Hamstreet Royal Military Canal HYTHE
Bedgebury
FOREST Coleman’s
Burmarsh
FOREST Hatch Hatch Three Three Pinetum Pinetum Benenden Warehorne Hamstreet Newchurch Burmarsh
Flimwell
Wych Cross Wadhurst Leg Cross Flimwell Warehorne Newchurch
Hawkhurst
Rolvenden
Wych Cross Wadhurst Leg Cross Hawkhurst Rolvenden Small Small Romne y
Crowborough
Crowborough Ticehurst Hythe Hythe Romne y
Appledore
Rotherfield
Rotherfield Ticehurst Appledore Snargate Mar sh Dymchurch
Mar sh
BODIAM
Stonegate
Nutley Nutley Mayfield Stonegate Hurst BODIAM Newenden Wittersham Snargate St Mary St Mary Dymchurch
Newenden
Wittersham
CASTLE
St Mary’s Bay
Brenzett
in the Marsh
Fairwarp
GREAT
Etchingham Green
Fairwarp Mayfield Etchingham Hurst Green CASTLE GREAT Brenzett in the Marsh St Mary’s Bay
EAST SUSSEX
EAST SUSSEX DIXTER R o t h e r L e v e l s Fairfield Brookland New Romney
DIXTER
Fairfield
Brookland
New Romney
Burwash
Five Ashes Burwash Rother Rother Northiam R o t h e r L e v e l s Old Old
Littlestone on Sea
Five Ashes
Romney
Hadlow Ewhurst Ewhurst Northiam Peasnarsh Romney Littlestone on Sea
Robertsbridge
Hadlow Down Robertsbridge Beckley Peasnarsh
Staplecross
Greatstone on Sea
Down Staplecross Beckley Playden Playden W alland Greatstone on Sea
W alland
Heathfield Brightling Cripp’s Corner RYE Mar sh
Heathfield Brightling Cripp’s Corner Udimore RYE Mar sh Lydd Lydd
Dallington
Dallington Whatlington Boad Boad Udimore Brede Camber Camber Nuclear Power
Whatlington
Oak
Oak
Sedlescombe Brede
Sedlescombe Winchelsea RYE RYE Nuclear Power Station DUNGENESS
Station
Winchelsea HARBOUR DUNGENESS
HARBOUR
BATTLE
Westfield
BATTLE Westfield
ACTIVITIES Pett English Channel
Catsfield
Catsfield Crowhurst Fairlight Pett English Channel
Crowhurst
Cliff End
Enjoy a cream tea on a glorious country estate at Penshurst Fairlight Cliff End
Ore Ore
Windsurf on the sea or row on the canal at Hythe
Hastings
Hastings
Go birdwatching at RSPB Dungeness or on a walk in Rye
Take a dip in the sea at Camber Sands
Board a vintage train from Tenterden to Bodiam or Hythe to Dungeness
KEY
Sample wine from excellent English vintages at Tenterden
Drive route
Visit the glorious gardens at Sissinghurst and Great Dixter
Hire a bicycle to ride around the forest at Goudhurst
Try a day’s tranquil fishing on Bewl Water
100-101_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 100 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 9: The Garden of England 101


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Ashdown Forest to Battle.
Number of days: 3–4, allowing for
a half day’s walk at Rye.
Distance: Around 280 km (175 miles).
Road conditions: The roads are mostly
well maintained. Some lanes are narrow
and hedgerows can get wild, so be
careful not to scratch your paintwork.
Above Traditional oast houses at Sissinghurst, see p106 When to go: May to June is a good
time to visit, when apple and cherry
Maidstone
Maidstone blossom paints the area pink and
Mereworth
Mereworth Teston Teston Len Len 0 kilometres 8 white. July and August are often
West Farleigh
West West West Farleigh Leeds Leeds Lenham the warmest months but are also the
Peckham
Shipbourne Peckham
Shipbourne Loose Langley Langley Lenham 0 miles 8
YALDING
Ide Hill Ide Hill Sevenoaks YALDING Loose busiest. September is harvest time,
Sevenoaks
Coxheath
Weald Weald Hadlow Hadlow East Coxheath Sutton when the sea is still warm.
Hildenborough
Hildenborough East Linton Linton Sutton Valence Charing Charing
Peckham
Valence
Four Elms Peckham Opening times: Museums and
Chiddingstone
Westwell
Medway
Four Elms Chiddingstone Medway Westwell Wye
Causeway
Egerton
Tonbridge
Edenbridge Causeway Tonbridge Beltring Egerton Wye attractions are generally open
Little Chart
Edenbridge Chiddingstone Leigh Beltring Beult Beult Little Chart
PLUCKLEY
Kennington
Chiddingstone Leigh Paddock Wood PLUCKLEY Kennington 10am–5pm, but may close earlier (or
Hever
Hothfield
Headcorn
Lingfield Hever Bidborough Tudeley Tudeley Paddock Wood Marden Marden Headcorn Smarden Hothfield
PENSHURST Bidborough
Lingfield PENSHURST KENT Staplehurst Smarden Bell Ashford are closed altogether) Nov–Easter.
Bell
KENT
Matfield
Willesborough
Stowting
Southborough
Markbeech
Markbeech Southborough Matfield Brenchley Staplehurst Smarden Ashford Willesborough Stowting Shops are often open longer.
Brabourne
Frittenden
Cowden Speldhurst Pembury Brenchley Frittenden Smarden Great Great Brabourne Churches are usually open until dusk.
Cowden Speldhurst Pembury Horsmonden Bethersden Chart
Horsmonden
Bethersden Chart
Felbridge
Felbridge Royal SISSINGHURST Smeeth Smeeth Sellingde
GOUDHURST SISSINGHURST
Kingsnorth
Biddenden
East Grinstead Langton Royal Tunbridge Wells GOUDHURST Biddenden Kingsnorth Sellingde Stanford Main market days: Yalding: Farmers’
Green Tunbridge Wells
East Grinstead Langton Stanford
Shadoxhurst
Green High Shadoxhurst Aldington Market: every 3rd Sat; Hythe: Farmers’
Lamberhurst
Groombridge
Upper Groombridge Lamberhurst Finchcocks High Haldon Aldington Saltwood Market: 2nd & 4th Sat of month;
Haldon
Upper Finchcocks Cranbrook Saltwood
Hartfield
Hartfield
Blisington
Woodchurch
Scotney Castle
Forest Row Hartfield Frant Frant Scotney Castle Hartley Hartley Cranbrook Woodchurch Blisington Lympne Lympne Sandgate Rye: Wed morning.
Forest Row Hartfield
Sandgate
HYTHE
TENTERDEN
Royal Military Canal
BEWL WATER
ASHDOWN
ASHDOWN Coleman’s BEWL WATER Bedgebury Benenden TENTERDEN Hamstreet Royal Military Canal HYTHE
Bedgebury
FOREST Coleman’s
Burmarsh
FOREST Hatch Hatch Three Three Pinetum Pinetum Benenden Warehorne Hamstreet Newchurch Burmarsh Shopping: Look out for Winnie the
Flimwell
Wych Cross Wadhurst Leg Cross Flimwell Warehorne Newchurch
Rolvenden
Hawkhurst
Wych Cross Wadhurst Leg Cross Hawkhurst Rolvenden Small Small Romne y Pooh memorabilia in Ashdown Forest;
Crowborough
Crowborough Ticehurst Hythe Hythe Romne y teapots on Tea Pot Island, Yalding; and
Appledore
Rotherfield
Rotherfield Ticehurst Appledore Snargate Mar sh Dymchurch
Mar sh
BODIAM
Stonegate
Wittersham
Nutley Nutley Mayfield Stonegate Hurst BODIAM Newenden Wittersham Snargate St Mary St Mary Dymchurch pottery and antiques in Rye.
Newenden
CASTLE
Brenzett
St Mary’s Bay
in the Marsh
Fairwarp
GREAT
Etchingham Green
Fairwarp Mayfield Etchingham Hurst Green CASTLE GREAT Brenzett in the Marsh St Mary’s Bay
EAST SUSSEX
EAST SUSSEX DIXTER R o t h e r L e v e l s Fairfield Brookland New Romney Major festivals: Battle: Arts & Music
DIXTER
Fairfield
Brookland
New Romney
Burwash
Five Ashes Burwash Rother Rother Northiam R o t h e r L e v e l s Old Old Festival, Oct; Re-enactment of Battle
Romney
Littlestone on Sea
Five Ashes
Hadlow Ewhurst Ewhurst Northiam Peasnarsh Romney Littlestone on Sea
Hadlow Down Robertsbridge Beckley Peasnarsh of Hastings at Battle Abbey, Oct;
Robertsbridge
Staplecross
Greatstone on Sea
Down Staplecross Beckley Playden Playden W alland Greatstone on Sea Hythe: Venetian Fête, Aug 2019
W alland
Heathfield Brightling Cripp’s Corner RYE Mar sh
Heathfield Brightling Cripp’s Corner Udimore RYE Mar sh Lydd Lydd (every two years); Rye: Scallop Festival,
Dallington
Dallington Whatlington Boad Boad Udimore Brede Camber Camber Nuclear Power Feb/Mar; International Jazz Festival,
Whatlington
Oak
Oak
Sedlescombe Brede
Sedlescombe Winchelsea RYE RYE Nuclear Power Station DUNGENESS Aug; Arts Festival, Sep; Tenterden:
Station
HARBOUR
Winchelsea HARBOUR DUNGENESS Folk Festival, Sep/Oct.
BATTLE
Westfield
BATTLE Westfield
Pett English Channel
Pett
Catsfield
Catsfield Crowhurst English Channel
Fairlight
Crowhurst Fairlight
Cliff End
Cliff End DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Ore
Ore
Hastings
Hastings For a good family trip, visit the church at
Hythe and picnic on the beach before
riding the steam train along the coast.
Above Fisherman’s hut at Historians will enjoy visiting the abbey
Rye Harbour, see pp104–5 and battlefield at Battle, lunching at the
Great Dixter gardens and exploring
the fairytale castle at Bodiam. Another
day out might take in the ghosts of
Pluckley and the gardens at Sissinghurst
followed by the castle at Bodiam and a
lakeside stroll at Bewl Water. For full
details, see p107.
100-101_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 101 20/07/18 7:47 PM

102
102 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN
VISITING ASHDOWN FOREST
1 Ashdown Forest museum and children’s playground.
Getting There East Sussex; RH18 5JP Stop off for a cream tea at the Fir Tree
From East Grinstead take the A22 south. Probably most famous as the home Tea Rooms, once part of the estate.
After three roundabouts (10 km/6 miles) of the children’s book character Visit St Mary’s church in Speldhurst,
turn left at traffic lights down Colemans Winnie the Pooh, Ashdown Forest is just off the B2176, to see windows by
Hatch Rd. The Forest Centre is on the left.
filled with deer and sheep and Pre-Raphaelites William Morris and
Ashdown Forest Centre provides walks, views and picnic Edward Burne-Jones. Try the George
Wych Cross, Forest Row, RH18 5JP; spots. Pick up walking maps at the and Dragon for a top-end pub lunch.
01342 823 583;
www.ashdownforest.org Ashdown Forest Centre (open Sat & ª Take the B2176 east, turn left on
Sun; also Mon–Fri pm Apr–Oct) or the A26. Keep right, turn right at the
continue on to the shop Pooh Corner second roundabout and left at the
WHERE TO STAY
(open daily) at Hartfield (along third before turning off right onto
AROUND PENSHURST Coleman’s Hatch Road to B2110, right, B2017. Continue to the A228 and turn
Charcott Farmhouse inexpensive and then left on B2026). Here you left. Turn right onto the B2015, then
This B&B in a 16th-century farmhouse can buy the rule book for Poohsticks take the B2162 to Yalding.
has three simple, country-style rooms to play at Poohsticks Bridge, a
(two en suite) and a pretty garden. 40-minute walk away. Nearby 3 Yalding
Leigh TN11 8LG (off the B2027, 5 km/3 Cotchford Farm is where Pooh’s Kent; ME18 6JB
miles north of Penshurst); 01892 870 024;
www.charcottfarmhouse.com creator, A A Milne, brought The village lies on the River
up his son, Christopher Beult, which joins the
PLUCKLEY Robin (and also where Medway at The Lees,
Elvey Farm moderate Rolling Stone Brian where the medieval
This boutique guesthouse is a rural treat, Jones drowned in his Twyford Bridge spans
with rooms in an old stable, granary,
oast house, barn and a vintage caravan. swimming pool in 1966). Pooh Corner shop the river. Nearby is the
Elvey Lane, TN27 OSU; 01233 840 442; ª From Hartfield, at the end sign, Hartfield 500-year-old, much flooded
www.elveyfarm.co.uk of the High Street turn right Anchor pub, opposite Tea
HYTHE onto the B2110 all the way to the Pot Island (see right) and Twyford
The Beach moderate A264. Turn left, then take the first yacht basin. Once a centre of hop-
Boutique B&B on the Hythe promenade, right down the B2188 to Penshurst. growing, Yalding is an attractive
with seven stylish en-suite rooms and a village, with a farmers’ market on
sun terrace for alfresco breakfast. 2 Penshurst the third Saturday of each month.
50 Marine Parade, CT21 6AW; 07967 Kent; TN11 8DG ª Turn left on the B2010, turn right
590 732; www.thebeachhythe.co.uk
The stone bridge over the fledgling and follow the signs for the B2163,
AROUND HYTHE Medway is a delightful approach to right on the A274. After Headcorn,
Giraffe Lodge expensive this attractive village. Don’t miss take the third left to Smarden and
Spend a night on safari at this wild Penshurst Place (open Apr–Oct daily, then on to Pluckley. Park on the street.
animal park, with game drives and Sat & Sun mid-Feb–March; 01892 870 307;
overnight accommodation in www.penshurstplace.com) – one of the 4 Pluckley
luxurious tented lodges.
Port Lympne Reserve, Hythe, CT21 4LR; grandest estates in the county. Dating Kent; TN27 OQS
01303 264 647; www.aspinall from 1346, the pretty, crenellated This is apple country, and the hedges
foundation.org/port-lympne manor house contains the largest along the lanes protect the orchards
original medieval hall outside from winds. Pluckley has two claims
Below left Attractive local stores and petrol Westminster as well as some great to fame: as the most haunted village
station, Penshurst Below right The fertile state rooms and galleries. It also has in England, and as the setting for the
Kent countryside near Yalding beautiful walled gardens, a small toy UK TV comedy The Darling Buds of
















Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


102-107_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 102 20/07/18 7:46 PM

DRIVE 9: The Garden of England 103















Above left Apple orchards are dense around
May, based on the stories of H E Bates Kentish Hops Pluckley Above right The medieval Twyford
(1905–74) who lived in nearby Little The flowering part of the hop plant Bridge at Yalding
Chart. A booklet on sale in the Post used as a flavouring for beer, hops
Office and the Black Horse pub have given Kent its distinctive red-
outlines a tour of the village’s dozen brick oast houses – kilns used to dry
supposedly haunted sites, one of fresh hops. Half a century ago, East
Londoners would flock to Kent to
them being the pub itself. spend their summers picking hops.
ª Turn right to Bethersden, past Now only a handful of hop gardens
Pluckley station, right on Kiln Lane, remain. The Hop Farm Family Park EAT AND DRINK
then left onto the A28, then first right (www.thehopfarm.co.uk), Beltring,
to Woodchurch. Turn left here onto between Yalding and Paddock ASHDOWN FOREST
the B2067 towards Lympne to Hythe. Wood, explains all things hoppy, Piglit’s Tearoom inexpensive
and has attractions for kids, too,
Use town car parks. including play areas and rides. Have a little something in the tearoom
that adjoins the Pooh Corner shop.
High Street, Hartfield, TN7 4AE; 01892
5 Hythe 770 456; www.pooh-country.co.uk;
Kent; TN27 OQS hire. Hythe is also the terminus for the open in daytime only
One of the Cinque Ports, a group of 22-km (14-mile) Romney, Hythe & PENSHURST
towns formed in 1155 to provide ships Dymchurch miniature railway (open Fir Tree Tea Rooms inexpensive
for the Crown in return for a beneficial Apr–Oct: daily, also Jan–Mar: Sat & Sun; Enjoy cream teas and home-made
tax status, Hythe is now a breezy, www.rhdr.org.uk). Popular with wind- cakes in a 16th-century building.
attractive resort. The old town is set surfers, Hythe’s long sandy beach is Penshurst, TN11 8DB; 01892 870 382;
back from the sea and topped by safe and family friendly. Five miles open Apr–Oct: Wed–Sun & Bank Hol
St Leonard’s Church, dating as far back west of Hythe, Port Lympne Reserve is Mon, Mar: Sat & Sun, all pm only
as 1090. Don’t miss the fascinating home to more than 700 animals; you AROUND PENSHURST
ossuary, with the bones of around can even stay overnight (see left). George and Dragon moderate
2,000 people. Between the town and ª Take the A259, signed to Hastings, Medieval oak-beamed inn that exudes
the sea, the 45-km (28-mile) Royal to New Romney, then turn off on to the character – local produce includes
Military Canal has rowing boats for B2071 and follow it to Dungeness. Ashdown Forest lamb.
Speldhurst Hill, Speldhurst, TN3 0NN
(off the B2176, 4.3 km/2.7 miles
Below Windsurfers in Hythe, taking advantage of the open breezy beach south of Penshurst); 01892 863 125;
www.speldhurst.com
YALDING
Tea Pot Island inexpensive
Have a cream tea, a coffee or snack at
this riverside setting, filled with over
7,500 teapots at the last count.
Hampstead Lane, ME18 6HG; 01622
814 541; www.teapotisland.co.uk;
open in daytime only, daily Apr–Nov,
some weekends Dec–Mar
HYTHE
Hythe Bay Seafood moderate
On the seafront, this large family-run
restaurant has all kinds of seafood –
from simple fish soup to a Hythe Bay
shellfish platter and lobster.
Marine Parade, CT21 6AW; 01303 233
844; www.hythebay.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


102-107_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 103 20/07/18 7:46 PM

104 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


6 Dungeness 7 Rye
Kent; TN29 9NB East Sussex; TN31 7LA
The headland of Dungeness – the It is a pleasure just to stroll around this
largest shingle spit in Europe – lies pretty, ancient and cobblestoned
at the southern end of Romney former port. Climb St Mary’s Tower for
Marsh, a low-lying area of expansive excellent views; on the High Street,
skies, narrow lanes, water channels pop into Rye Art Gallery (open daily),
and fields dotted with sheep – look buy sweets from jars in Britcher &
out for Romney saltmarsh lamb in Rivers’ 1920s shop, or pick up delicious
restaurants. On your approach along picnic snacks from Rye Delicatessen.
the coast road towards the nuclear Head to the waterfront where the tar-
power station (closed to visitors), stop by black former warehouses are troves
Prospect Cottage, where film-maker of bric-a-brac and antiques. Watch
Derek Jarman created an unusual the fishing boats behind the bowling
garden from what he found on the green landing the day’s catch.
Above Rye Windmill guesthouse, on the beach. At the 45-m (147-ft) Old On the road in to Rye lies Camber
pretty Tillingham river, Rye Lighthouse (open daily Easter–Oct), Sands, a vast sweep of beach revealed
climb to the top to see the view and when the tide races out across the flat
WHERE TO STAY examine the great glass prisms. The shore. Popular with horse riders and
area’s special habitat has made it an sand yachters, the beach gets busy on
DUNGENESS important RSPB site (open daily) with summer weekends.
The Watch Tower moderate trails for kids and regular sightings of ª Leave Rye on the Winchelsea Road
Lovely B&B with a three-room suite that bitterns, plovers and wheatears. and take the turning signed to Rye
comes with its own private, plant-filled ª Take Dungeness Road north to Lydd, Harbour. Drive to the end and park in
conservatory overlooking Dungeness.
Dungeness Road, TN29 9NF; 01797 321 then follow signs to Camber and on to the car park, by the Nature Reserve
773; www.watchtowerdungeness.com Rye. Park at the entrance to the town. Information Centre.
RYE
Rye Windmill moderate 8 Rye Harbour
Near the quay, this hotel offers rooms
with character and excellent breakfasts. East Sussex; TN31 7TU
Mill Lane, TN31 7DW; 01797 224 027; Home to Rye Harbour Nature Reserve (www.sussexwildlifetrust.org.uk),
www.ryewindmill.co.uk; minimum these wetlands and reed beds are great for birdwatching. A network of
two-night stay at weekends
paths cross the area, so it is easy to tailor a walk to the time available.
AROUND TENTERDEN Lime Kiln Cottage by the River Rother is the information centre.
Barclay Farmhouse moderate
This 18th-century farmhouse, off the
A262, offers rooms in its old oak barn A three-hour country walk lifeboat with 17 volunteers rowed out
and a cottage let. No children allowed. From the car park follow the river to help a storm-stricken ship; all were
Woolpack Cnr, Biddenden, TN27 8BQ; past Lime Kiln Cottage 1 and lost at sea. Turn inland by the marked
01580 857 127; www.barclayfarm
house.co.uk; May–Aug minimum continue past the bird hide to the footpath that runs right by the edge
two-night stay at weekends sea. Turn right and follow the coast of the larger body of water – Nook
west, past the Ternery Pool on the Beach – and turn right, veering round
Below left The Old Lighthouse (1904), right – a great place to see wildlife. to the left past Castle Farm barns.
Dungeness Below right Film director Derek Walk past the Mary Stanford Lifeboat Carry on to a small cluster of houses,
Jarman’s Prospect Cottage, Dungeness House 2 from where, in 1928, a to Sea Road and walk up to the





















102-107_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 104 20/07/18 7:46 PM

DRIVE 9: The Garden of England 105



RYE R. Rother






Lime Kiln
Camber Martello Cottage
Castle Tower
Castle
Farm Barns
Ternery
Pool
Winchelsea Nook
Beach Mary Stanford
Lifeboat House Above Camber Sands has an award-winning
dune-backed beach
Ry e Ba y
0 kilometres 1 EAT AND DRINK
0 miles 1
RYE
The Ship Inn moderate
roundabout, and take the first exit the road. Turn right here back to the Laid back quayside pub with eclectic
decor, roaring fires in winter and great
past the Bridge Inn. Then, turn first car park by the Martello Tower 5, one seasonal food. Ten en-suite rooms and
left up the steep Strand Hill under of a series of 74 bastions built along breakfast buffet available too.
Strand Gate into Winchelsea 3. the south coast between 1805–08 The Strand, TN31 7DB; 01797 222 233;
Overlooking the wetlands and sea during the Napoleonic Wars. www.theshipinnrye.com
below, tiny Winchelsea is laid out in ª Return to Rye, take A268 through Webbes at the Fish Cafe moderate
the manner of a medieval Bastide the town centre, forking right onto The best seafood restaurant in town –
town (from Southwest France) – on a B2082 to Tenterden. Park free for 2 hours try the steamed selection of fish with
shellfish – serves meat dishes, too.
grid pattern divided into quarters at the supermarket just before town. Tower Street, TN31 7AT; 01797 222 226;
with wide streets. With little modern www.webbesrestaurants.co.uk
development, it feels as if nothing has 9 Tenterden AROUND TENTERDEN
changed since it was first designed by Kent; TN30 6AN
Edward I in 1288, following a series of On the road to town, after a series West House moderate
Eat Romney lamb and crème brulée
storms in which Old Winchelsea all but of sharp bends, stop at Smallhythe with rhubarb at this excellent Michelin-
disappeared. At the town’s centre is the Place (open Mar–Oct: Sat–Wed; www. starred restaurant in Biddenden.
large Church of St Thomas the Martyr. nationaltrust.org.uk), home of the 28 High Street, Biddenden, TN27 8AH;
Half ruined, its great chancel now actress Ellen Terry (1847–1928). 01580 291 341; www.thewesthouse
serves as the nave, with brilliant Dating from the 16th century, this restaurant.co.uk; closed Mon
stained-glass windows, including one pretty half-timbered house and
to the victims of the 1928 Rye lifeboat cottage garden was the actress’s Below The restored Kent & East Sussex Light
disaster. A feature of Winchelsea’s home for nearly 30 years. Railway Station, Tenterden
houses is their enormous cellars: look Also on the way, look out for award-
out for the stone steps leading to these winning Chapel Down Vineyard, the
vaulted undercrofts where wine was country’s biggest producer of English
stored; tours are arranged on various wine (tours Mar–Nov; book in advance
dates between April and mid-October on 01580 766 111).
(www.winchelsea.com). In the handsome town of
Return down to the roundabout Tenterden, browse the antiques
and back down Sea Road. Past the shops and upmarket boutiques, and
Castle Farm barns, just after the step back in time at the Kent & East
footpath begins, follow the signs left, Sussex Light Railway Station (www.
along the track to Camber Castle 4, kesr.org.uk) which runs steam and
a ruined 16th-century fort. Take the classic trains to Bodiam and hosts
path forking right that skirts the Castle themed weekends several times
Water. This is another great spot for throughout the year.
seeing more birdlife. Follow the path ª Drive through Tenterden turning
sharp left towards the road, then right, left on the A28, signed to Ashford, then
between the ponds and back onto forking left on the A262 to Sissinghurst.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


102-107_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 105 20/07/18 7:46 PM

106 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


0 Sissinghurst with adventure playgrounds, cycle
Kent; TN17 2AB trails and educational activities. Hire
One of the great National Trust estates some bikes, enjoy a picnic or just
in southeast England, Sissinghurst stroll among the tall trees.
Castle Garden (open daily mid-Mar–Oct; Also near Goudhurst, off the A262
www.nationaltrust.org.uk) is not in fact is Finchcocks (Apr–Sep: open Sun &
a castle but the remains of a Tudor bank hols; Wed–Thu in Aug; 01580 211
manor built around 1560. It became a 712; www.finchcocks.co.uk), a Georgian
“castle” in 1756 when it was used to manor set in beautiful grounds with a
house French prisoners of war who museum of early pianos and other
called it “Le Château”. The estate was instruments. Return to the A262 and
bought by the parliamentarian Harold follow signs for Scotney Castle (open
Nicolson and writer and keen gardener daily; www.nationaltrust.org.uk). This
Above Rural scenery of wheat fields and hay Vita Sackville-West in1930, magical 14th-century
bales near Sissinghurst, Kent who laid out the grounds castle has towers, a moat,
as a series of “rooms” , flower gardens, shady
ACTIVITIES AT BEWL WATER each with a distinctive woodland and a hop farm.
theme and colour. The ª Take the road out of
Bewl Water Outdoor Centre white garden, best in Scotney Castle to the
Bewl Water, Lamberhurst, TN3 8JH; early July, is spectacular, roundabout, turning left
01892 890 000; www.bewlwater.co.uk
but at any time of year on the A21. Turn right to
there is something to Piano at Finchcocks, Bewl Water following the
WHERE TO STAY
see. Climb to the top of the near Goudhurst signs – park on site.
AROUND BEWL WATER tall brick Elizabethan tower
The Bell moderate in the centre of the gardens for a w Bewl Water
South of Bewl Water, this quirkily bird’s-eye view of the estate; Vita’s Kent; TN3 8JH
furnished village pub has seven equally old writing room lies halfway up. Built in the 1970s, the largest inland
unconventional rooms. Good food, too. ª Carry along the A262 to Goudhurst. water in southeast England, Bewl
High Street, Ticehust, TN5 7AS; 01580 Turn left at the village pond for free Water (open daily) is encircled by a
200 300; www.thebellinticehurst.com
parking, just down on the right. 21-km (13-mile) walk and riding path.
BATTLE There is a wide range of activities on
The Powder Mills moderate q Goudhurst offer at Bewl Water Outdoor Centre,
Gorgeous Georgian country house Kent; TN17 1AL such as canoeing, windsurfing and
hotel with fishing lake and grounds. This is an idyllic village with a fine pond rock climbing. Alternatively take a lake
Good restaurant open to non-residents.
Powder Mill Lane, TN33 OSP; 01424 and uplifting views. The church tower cruise, explore an adventure play-
775 511; www.powdermillshotel.com is sometimes open, for even better ground, hire a bike or try some fly
views across the Weald. South from fishing. After all that, enjoy a snack
Below left The gatehouse of Sissinghurst Castle Goudhurst on the B2079 lie the green at the restaurant.
Below right The splendid gardens and hall forests of Bedgebury Pinetum (open ª Return to the A21, turn right and
house of Great Dixter daily; www.bedgeburypinetum.org.uk), then left onto the A268 to Hawkhurst,






















Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


102-107_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 106 20/07/18 7:46 PM

DRIVE 9: The Garden of England 107














Above left Bewl Water, the largest reservoir
then turn right on the A229 and left on by Nathaniel Lloyd in 1909. He in southeast England Above right The exterior
the B2244. Turn left to Bodiam Castle, transported another, similar Tudor of Bodiam Castle
signed and with on-site parking. house from Benenden nearby and
commissioned the Arts and Crafts
e Bodiam Castle architect Edwin Lutyens, to meld
Kent; TN32 5UA them together and plan the gardens.
When it comes to castles, few live up to Nathaniel’s son, the garden writer EAT AND DRINK
the ideal as well as Bodiam Castle (open Christopher Lloyd, was born here AROUND GOUDHURST
daily; www.nationaltrust.org.uk). Built in in 1906 and made the gardens some
1385 beside the River Rother to defend of the most inspiring in Britain, using Halfway House inexpensive
Lovely country pub 8 km (5 miles)
the coast – now some miles away – it innovative planting techniques. Since northwest of Goudhurst, with a big
saw little action. A square bastion with his death in 2006, Great Dixter has garden, good-value food and real
corner towers and a carp-filled moat, been managed by a charitable trust. ale served straight from the barrel.
the castle has been the backdrop to ª Head back to town and take the A28 Horsmonden Road, Brenchley, TN12
7AX; 01892 722 526; www.
films such as Monty Python and the Holy south. Turn right and follow the signs halfwayhousebrenchley.co.uk
Grail. Re-enact movie moments on to Battle. Park by the Abbey.
the battlements, spiral staircases, and AROUND BODIAM
gatehouse with original portcullis. t Battle The Curlew moderate
ª From the car park turn left over the Kent; TN33 0AD Michelin-starred restaurant serving
river and take first left. At a staggered At Battle Abbey (open Apr–Oct: daily, modern British cuisine in a former
coaching inn that is casual and
junction turn left for Great Dixter Nov–Mar: Sat & Sun; www.english- informal. Organic and biodynamic
House and Gardens. Park in the free heritage.org.uk) stretch your legs with wines from independent producers
on-site car park. a stroll around the battlefield where, are on offer too.
in 1066, the Normans defeated the Junction Road, Bodiam, TN32 5UY;
r Great Dixter English: the visitor centre offers an 01580 861 394; www.thecurlew
restaurant.co.uk; closed Mon
Kent; TN31 6PH enlightening introductory film as
A beautiful medieval hall house, well as new interactive displays, BATTLE
Great Dixter (Apr–Oct: open Tue–Sun while the audio tour is excellent. The Cut & Grill moderate
& Bank Hol Mon; garden 11am–5pm; abbey itself was largely destroyed Fun, family-owned restaurant
house 2–5pm; www.greatdixter.co.uk) is during the 16th-century Dissolution specializing in steaks and burgers,
all of which are sourced locally.
an amalgam of two buildings. The of the Monasteries. The market 17 High Street, TN33 0AE; 01424
original half-timbered house, built town of Battle sprang up around the 774 422; www.cutandgrill.co.uk;
between 1440 and 1454, was bought abbey and merits a short visit. closed Mon & Tue
DAY TRIP OPTIONS War and Peace Ghosts, Gardens and Castles
Discover Kent’s history and country- At Battle t, see the Abbey and walk Stay in the haunted village of
side from Hythe, Battle or Pluckley. the field where the decisive battle Pluckley 4, then go to see the
in the last successful invasion of wonderful gardens and ancient
Coastal Marshes England took place. Next, head for buildings of Sissinghurst Castle 0.
In Hythe, 5 see its fine church, then a peaceful lunch in the wonderful Drive through pretty Goudhurst q
buy provisions and head to the beach house and gardens of Great Dixter to Scotney Castle and if there is time,
with a picnic. Next take the steam r, before climbing the battlements go to Bewl Water w for a lakeside
railway to New Romney and on to of 14th-century Bodiam Castle e. stroll or a cycle ride.
Dungeness 6 for a walk on the Retrace the driving directions to Great Head south out of Pluckley, turn right on
shingles and some birdspotting.
Dixter and Bodiam Castle. To return, A28 and right on the A262. Retrace the
This trip doesn’t require any driving. head north-east to A21, then south. journey to return to Pluckley.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


102-107_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 107 20/07/18 7:46 PM

108-109_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 108 30/03/2017 14:15
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 10 Liverpool ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
The River Cam
and Constable
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Country Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
Birmingham
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham Cambridge to
WALES
Cardiff London Bristol London Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
East Bergholt
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Highlights
• A world-class university
Walk through the historical charms
of Cambridge on the picturesque River
Cam with its outstanding medieval
architecture of college courtyards and
churches – and then go punting
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Inverness • Galleries and museums
Inverness
Aberdeen
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen Undertake some further education at
SCOTLAND
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham Cambridge and Saffron Walden’s
ENGLAND
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Glasgow Edinburgh museums, see great art at Audley End,
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol Gainsborough’s House and gallery at
Newcastle
Newcastle Sudbury and Sir Alfred Munnings Art
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND Museum at Dedham ENGLAND
• Constable Country
Tour the ancient wool towns, pretty
villages, historic churches and rural
landscapes captured by John
Constable in his paintings
View across the River Cam towards King’s
College Chapel, Cambridge
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
108-109_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 109
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh 30/03/2017 14:15
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND

110 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The River Cam and Constable Country

This glorious drive begins only 103 km (64 miles) from central London
but the places it visits are surprisingly rural, with a flavour and colour
that is distinctly local. It traces a route from the venerable university
architecture of Cambridgeshire through the unspoiled village greens of
Essex to the fertile countryside of the Stour Valley and Dedham Vale, just
straying across the border into Suffolk. Here are opportunities to explore a
landscape of timeless beauty, immortalized by some of Britain’s greatest
artists. In this part of East Anglia, history is everywhere present in the
ancient market towns, the villages whose cottages – many half-timbered,
thatched and washed prettily in pink – seem almost to
have sprung from the earth.
0 kilometres 5
CAMBRIDGE
CAMBRIDGE KEY 0 miles 5
GRANTCHESTER
GRANTCHESTER Drive route
Fulbourn
Fulbourn
Barton Trumpington
Barton
Trumpington
CAMBRIDGE-
Great Great Hartest
Hartest
Cam Cam Shelford CAMBRIDGE- Stansfield
Shelford
Stansfield
SHIRE
SHIRE Preston
Preston
Thurlow
Harston Balsham Thurlow
Balsham
Harston
Lavenham
Sawston Abington
Sawston Abington West Wickham Barnardiston LONG Lavenham
West Wickham
Barnardiston
LONG
Glemsford
MELFORD
Foxton
Foxton Whittlesford Horseheath Glemsford MELFORD Monks
Monks
Whittlesford
Horseheath
Cavendish
Pampisford Linton Withersfield Kedington Cavendish Eleigh
Eleigh
Pampisford
Linton
Withersfield Kedington
Thriplow
Thriplow Bartlow Clare Clare Pentlow
Bartlow
Pentlow
Hinton
Haverhill
Stoke by
Duxford
Duxford Hinton Haverhill Stoke by Little Little Kersey Ipswich
Kersey
Ipswich
Belchamp
Waldingfield
Great Great Sturmer Clare Clare Belchamp Waldingfield Hadleigh
Hadleigh
Sturmer
Ickleton
St Paul
Ickleton Chesterford St Paul Chattisham
Chesterford
Chattisham
SUFFOLK
Ashdon SUFFOLK
Ashdon
SUDBURY
Helion Steeple Ridgewell SUDBURY Newton
Steeple
Helion
Newton
Ridgewell
Copdock
Bumpstead Bumpstead Bulmer Boxford Layham Copdock
Bumpstead
Bumpstead
Layham
Bulmer
Boxford
SAFFRON
Capel St Mary Ereston
Elmdon SAFFRON Gestingthorpe Capel St Mary Ereston Orwell
Elmdon
Gestingthorpe
Orwell
Raydon
WALDEN Stambourne Great Assington STOKE BY Raydon
WALDEN
STOKE BY
Stambourne Great
Assington
Hempstead Yeldham Chelmondiston
Hempstead
Chelmondiston
Yeldham
NAYLAND
Tattingstone
AUDLEY END Great Great NAYLAND Tattingstone
AUDLEY END
Radwinter Great Great HEDINGHAM Henny Higham
Higham
Radwinter
HEDINGHAM
Henny
Felixstowe
EAST BERGHOLT
Harkstead
Sampford
Wendens
Wendens Sampford Lamarsh EAST BERGHOLT Harkstead Felixstowe
Lamarsh
CASTLE
Ambo
Erwarton
Ambo CASTLE Stutton Erwarton
STRATFORD
Stutton
Bures
FINCHINGFIELD
Pebmarsh
Newport FINCHINGFIELD Sible Sible Pebmarsh Bures Nayland STRATFORD Brantham
Newport
Brantham
Nayland ST MARY
Debden
Debden Little Little Hedingham ST MARY Stour Harwich
Hedingham
Stour
Harwich
ESSEX
Mistley
Sampford
Wrabness
Mount
DEDHAM
Clavering
Clavering Sampford ESSEX Mount Great Great DEDHAM Mistley Wrabness
Bures
Horkesley
Horkesley
Bures
Halstead
Dovercourt
Lawford Manningtree
Widdington THAXTED Wethersfield Halstead Lawford Manningtree Ramsey Dovercourt
Wethersfield
THAXTED
Widdington
Ramsey
Mill Bay
Great
Great White Colne Mill Bay
White Colne
Bardfield Goafield Little Little
Goafield
Bardfield
Shalford
Bromley
Henham Shalford Earls Bromley Wix Wix Great Esbjerg,
Esbjerg,
Henham
Great
Colne
Colne Colne West West Great Great Oakley Hook of Holland
Earls Colne
Oakley
Hook of Holland
Bromley
High Garret
Broxted Lindsell High Garret Bergholt Bromley
Bergholt
Broxted
Lindsell
Colchester
Little Bentley
ACTIVITIES Colchester Little Bentley The Naze
The Naze
Tendring
Tendring
Go punting on the River Cam under the Bridge of Sighs
and along the glorious Cambridge Backs Below View across the mill pond on the River
Cam, Grantchester, see p113
Take tea at “ten to three” at the pretty village of
Grantchester, made famous by poet Rupert Brooke
Take your own snap of the village green in Finchingfield,
supposedly the most photographed in England
Cross the moat bridge to look around historic Hedingham
Castle and maybe watch a joust or two
Take a river cruise beside the lush meadows at Sudbury
Step into a gorgeous Constable painting by the House
on Water Lane, Stratford St Mary
Walk along the banks of the Stour at East Bergholt
110-111_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 110 20/07/18 7:24 PM

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country 111


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Cambridge to East
Bergholt.
Number of days: 3–4 days, allowing
at least a half day in Cambridge.
Distance: About 177 km (110 miles).
Road conditions: Good, well-paved
and signposted. Off the main roads,
lanes are narrow and can be busy.
When to go: Best from April to
October as the weather is generally
more pleasant and the countryside
green and blooming.
Opening times: Museums and
CAMBRIDGE
CAMBRIDGE
attractions are generally open
GRANTCHESTER 10am–5pm, but close earlier (or are
GRANTCHESTER
Fulbourn
Fulbourn
Barton
Barton Trumpington closed altogether) Nov–Easter. Shop
Trumpington
hours are longer. Churches are usually
CAMBRIDGE-
Great Great Hartest
Hartest
Cam Cam Shelford CAMBRIDGE- Stansfield open until dusk.
Stansfield
Shelford
SHIRE Preston
SHIRE
Preston
Thurlow
Harston
Harston Balsham Thurlow Main market days: Cambridge:
Balsham
Lavenham
Sawston Abington
Sawston Abington West Wickham Barnardiston LONG Lavenham Above View across the graveyard to the windmill at Thaxted, built by local farmer Farmers’ Market, Sun; Saffron Walden:
West Wickham
LONG
Barnardiston
Glemsford
MELFORD
Foxton Whittlesford Horseheath Glemsford MELFORD Monks John Webb at the turn of the 19th century, see p114 Market (crafts, farm produce, etc), Tue &
Foxton
Monks
Horseheath
Whittlesford
Cavendish
Linton
Pampisford
Eleigh
Pampisford Linton Withersfield Kedington Cavendish Eleigh
Withersfield Kedington
Thriplow
Thriplow Bartlow Clare Clare Pentlow Sat; Thaxted: Market, Fri am; Sudbury:
Bartlow
Pentlow
Hinton
Stoke by
Haverhill
Duxford Hinton Haverhill Stoke by Little Little Kersey Ipswich Market Thu & Sat; Long Melford:
Duxford
Kersey
Ipswich
Belchamp
Waldingfield
Great Great Sturmer Clare Clare Belchamp Waldingfield Hadleigh Farmers’ Market, 3rd Sat of month.
Hadleigh
Sturmer
Ickleton
St Paul
Ickleton Chesterford St Paul Chattisham
Chesterford
Chattisham
SUFFOLK
Ashdon
Ashdon SUFFOLK
SUDBURY
Steeple
Helion
Helion Steeple Ridgewell SUDBURY Newton Shopping: Long Melford is famous for
Newton
Ridgewell
Copdock
Bumpstead
Bumpstead Bumpstead Bulmer Boxford Layham Copdock
Bumpstead
Layham
Bulmer
Boxford
SAFFRON
Capel St Mary Ereston
Elmdon
Elmdon SAFFRON Gestingthorpe Capel St Mary Ereston Orwell its antiques, arts and crafts shops.
Gestingthorpe
Raydon
Orwell
WALDEN
STOKE BY
WALDEN Stambourne Great Assington STOKE BY Raydon
Stambourne Great
Assington
Hempstead Yeldham Chelmondiston Major festivals: Cambridge: Summer
Hempstead
Chelmondiston
Yeldham
NAYLAND
Tattingstone
AUDLEY END Great Great NAYLAND Tattingstone
AUDLEY END
Radwinter Great HEDINGHAM Henny Higham Music Festival, Jul; Folk Festival, end
Radwinter
Great
Higham
HEDINGHAM
Henny
Felixstowe
EAST BERGHOLT
Harkstead
Sampford
Wendens
Wendens Sampford Lamarsh EAST BERGHOLT Harkstead Felixstowe
CASTLE
Lamarsh
Ambo CASTLE Stutton Erwarton Jul/Aug; Thaxted: Music Festival, mid-
Erwarton
Ambo
Stutton
STRATFORD
Bures
FINCHINGFIELD
Pebmarsh
Newport
Newport FINCHINGFIELD Sible Sible Pebmarsh Bures Nayland STRATFORD Brantham Jun to mid-Jul; Sudbury: Festival of
Brantham
Nayland ST MARY
Stour
Hedingham
Debden
Debden Little Little Hedingham ST MARY Stour Harwich Performing Arts, mid-Feb to mid-Mar.
Harwich
ESSEX
Mistley
Sampford
Wrabness
Mount
Clavering Sampford ESSEX Mount Great Great DEDHAM Mistley Wrabness
DEDHAM
Clavering
Bures
Horkesley
Bures
Horkesley
Halstead
Dovercourt
Lawford Manningtree
THAXTED
Wethersfield
Widdington
Widdington THAXTED Wethersfield Halstead Lawford Manningtree Ramsey Dovercourt
Ramsey
Mill Bay
Great White Colne Mill Bay
Great
White Colne
Goafield
Bardfield Goafield Little Little
Bardfield
Shalford
Bromley
Esbjerg,
Henham
Great
Henham Shalford Earls Bromley Wix Wix Great Esbjerg,
Colne
Colne Colne West West Great Great Oakley Hook of Holland DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Oakley
Earls Colne
Hook of Holland
Bromley
Broxted Lindsell High Garret Bergholt Bromley
High Garret
Bergholt
Broxted
Lindsell
Colchester
Colchester Little Bentley The Naze Cambridge merits the best part of a
Little Bentley
The Naze
Tendring day to tour its colleges, galleries and
Tendring
churches and picnic on a punt, then
head to pretty Grantchester for tea.
Below The Bridge of Sighs built in 1831, St John’s For quintessential England, see Saffron
College, Cambridge, see pp112–13 Walden with its quirky museum, then
tour the grand mansion Audley End,
the church of Thaxted, Finchingfield
village green and the ruins of
Hedingham Castle. Sources of artistic
inspiration abound here, from Long
Melford, with its two great halls linked
to children’s books, to the charming
villages of Constable Country, which,
with their cottages, churches, galleries
and beautiful scenery, have all been
immortalized in Constable’s paintings.
For full details, see p117.
110-111_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 111 20/07/18 7:24 PM

112 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Cambridge
Cambridgeshire
This vibrant city – famed the world over for its medieval university –
offers enrapturing architecture, a rich historic fabric, green spaces and
many activities for the visitor. Cambridge stands on the River Cam,
amid beautiful green countryside. Dominated by its 31 colleges, the
city enjoys the buzz generated by a large student population.
A three-hour walking tour sculptures and found objects from
From the Grand Arcade car park, turn Ede’s collection and also has top exhi­
right into Corn Exchange Street and bi tions. Behind is Cambridge St Peter,
left into Wheeler Street to find the the city’s second­oldest church. Next
Tourist Information Centre 1. Turn door is the Museum of Cambridge 5
right, then left onto King’s Parade. (open Tue–Sat & Sun pm), where 20,000
After St Catharine’s College turn right objects and documents recall rural life
onto Silver Street. As you cross in Cambridgeshire. Cross Northampton
the bridge, look right for the Street, turn right onto Magdalene
Mathematical Bridge 2, Street and cross the bridge
Above Gothic cloisters at St John’s College, designed by William (punts for hire here too).
Cambridge University Etheridge and first built by In the Second Court of
James Essex the Younger in Magdalene College 6
1749. Constructed without on the left is Pepys Library
VISITING CAMBRIDGE nails, this wooden bridge (call 01223 332 115 for opening
was the first in the world to times), housing the diaries of
Parking be designed according Samuel Pepys, bequeathed
Cambridge is not car­friendly and much
of the centre is pedestrianized. Park in to mathematical analysis. To to the college in 1703. Back
one of the five park­and­ride car parks the left, next to the Anchor on Magdalene Street by
ringing the city or, for the most central pub, there is punt hire on the Bridge Street, on the right, are
car park, follow signs to Grand Arcade. River Cam. On the far side of Wrought-iron gate, some half­timbered Tudor
Tourist Information the bridge, the walk leads via Cambridge houses – erotic carvings hint
Peas Hill, CB2 3AD; 01223 791 500; a footpath to the right along that one may have been a
www.visitcambridge.org The Backs 3, with rear views of the brothel. At the corner of St John’s
College Opening colleges of Queens’, King’s, Clare and Street stands the Church of the Holy
Visiting times vary from college to Trinity Hall. At Trinity, where the path Sepulchre 7 (closed Sun am), one of
college. Some charge for entrance at ends, continue along Queens Road, four Norman round churches in
certain times. Colleges may be closed to
visitors in the exam period (Easter–Jul). then bear right on Northampton England, dating from the 12th century.
Street. On the left, at the junction with Head down St Johns Street for St
Punting Honey Hill, is Kettle’s Yard 4 (closed John’s College 8, founded in 1511
A plethora of firms offer chauffeur tours
and self­punting. Well­established out­ Mon; www.kettlesyard.co.uk), home to by Lady Margaret Beaufort, mother of
fits include Scudamore’s (01223 359 750; Harold Stanley Ede for 16 years, the Henry VII, and enter First Court, the
www.scudamores.com) and Cambridge Tate Gallery’s first modern art curator. oldest part of the college. Signs lead
Chauffeur Punts (01223 354 164; www. The museum is filled with paintings, to St John’s Chapel, designed by Sir
punting-in-cambridge.co.uk)
Below Grantchester church, mentioned in one of Rupert Brooke’s most famous poems
WHERE TO STAY
CAMBRIDGE
Hotel du Vin & Bistro expensive
Choose from 41 rooms in a marvellous
old building at the heart of the city.
Emphasis on creature comforts, and
on bistro classics in the restaurant.
15–19 Trumpington Street, CB2 1QA;
01223 928 991; www.hotelduvin.com
Hotel Felix expensive
This highly regarded hotel offers
Victorian elegance overlaid with modern
chic. Lovely bedrooms and bathrooms,
large grounds, and local produce on the
menu in the Graffiti Restaurant.
Whitehouse Lane, CB3 0LX; 01223 277
977; www.hotelfelix.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


112-117_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 112 20/07/18 8:09 PM

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country 113


Left St John’s College and the romantic Bridge
of Sighs, Cambridge
EAT AND DRINK
CAMBRIDGE
Clarendon Arms inexpensive
Popular local town centre, with a terrific
range of ales and a decent food menu.
35 Clarendon Street, CB1 1JX; 01223
778 272; www.theclarendonarms.com
Fitzbillies inexpensive
Established in 1922, this Cambridge
institution is famed for its Chelsea buns,
“probably the stickiest in the world”.
52 Trumpington Street, CB2 1RG;
01223 352 500; www.fitzbillies.com.
Cotto moderate
This fancy restaurant makes much of
George Gilbert Scott in 1863–9. Here a 2 Grantchester local organic produce. Dishes might
statue of William Wilberforce broods “Stands the church clock at ten to include seared beef carpaccio or
on the evils of slavery. Spanning the three, and is there honey still for tea?” sautéed veal kidney.
Gonville Hotel, Gonville Place, CB1 1LY;
Cam is the Bridge of Sighs, designed wrote poet Rupert Brooke (1887–1915) 01223 302 010; www.cottocambridge.
by Henry Hutchinson in 1827. Turn in his gentle satire of English life, The co.uk; closed Sun & Mon
right out of St John’s and enter Trinity Old Vicarage, Grantchester. It’s a pretty Midsummer House expensive
College 9, founded in 1546 by Henry village with thatched cottages and Garlanded with awards, including
VIII, through its Great Gate. The Wren historic inns, not yet subsumed by two Michelin stars, this riverside place
library was completed in 1695 to its larger and more lively academic is recommended for its professionalism
designs by the famous archi tect. Turn neighbour. See the memorial to and highly imaginative cuisine from its
five-, seven- and ten-course menus.
right out of Trinity to head back to Brooke, and the Old Vicarage that Midsummer Common, CB4 1HA; 01223
King’s College 0. Visit the chapel, was for a time his home; take a snap 369 299; www.midsummerhouse.co.uk;
city’s most spectacular building, to of the clock at ten to three – and closed Sun & Mon
marvel at the architecture of its ceiling. enjoy traditional afternoon tea at GRANTCHESTER
ª Follow ring road to Trumpington the old Orchard Tea Garden.
Street, signed M11 south. At ª Return to the A1309 at Trumpington, The Orchard Tea Garden inexpensive
Trumpington turn right to Grantchester. turn right, then left to Great Shelford on Tread in the footsteps of Rupert Brooke
and relax over traditional tea or lunch in
Use pay car park and continue on foot. A1301. After four roundabouts, take this idyllic spot, with its historic wooden
B184 to Saffron pavilion and glorious orchard setting.
Kettle’s Yard Museum of Cambridge Walden. Follow 47 Mill Way, CB3 1RS; 01223 551 125;
www.theorchardteagarden.co.uk;
signs for pay
NOR THAMPT ON ST MAGDALENE ST Magdalene parking or look closed over Christmas
College
for free short-stay Below Punters seen from The Backs as they
Q U E E N ’ S R O A D St John’s Church of the town centre. glide past King’s College, Cambridge
parking in the
Holy Sepulchre
JESUS LANE
College
BRIDGE ST
The Trinity
Backs College S T J OH N’S STREET GREEN ST SIDNEY STREET
Trinity MARKET ST HOBSON STREET
Hall Tourist
Clare Information
College King’s Centre
College K I N G ’ S PA R AD E
The Backs River Cam
Q U E E N ’ S R O A D
Corpus
Christi
WHEELER ST CORN EXCHANGE ST
Queens’ St College
College Catharine’s D O W N I N G S T
Mathematical College
Bridge S I L V E R S T 0 metres 250
0 yards 250
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50
112-117_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 113 20/07/18 8:09 PM

114 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Suffolk pink
All over Suffolk there are ancient
houses washed in attractive hues
of pink. Although today most are
coloured with conventional paints,
traditionally Suffolk pink distemper
included buttermilk coloured with
pigs’ blood. Using blackthorn or
sloe juice instead was said to
produce a redder shade of paint.

4 Audley End
Essex; CB11 4JF
Henry VIII gave Walden Abbey to Sir
Thomas Audley, who transformed it
into a splendid mansion (Apr–Oct: open
daily; www.english-heritage.org.uk). The
third Baron Baybrooke, who came into
the property in 1825, brought in works
by Holbein, Canaletto and many more.
There are 30 rooms to be seen, some
designed by Robert Adam, as well
Above left Thaxted’s picturesque 19th-century as parkland designed by landscape
windmill Above top right The Tudor-style 3 Saffron Walden gardener “Capability” Brown, and a
town hall in the heart of Saffron Walden, built Essex; CB10 Victorian kitchen garden.
in 1761 Above right Thatched cottage in A medieval market town, Saffron ª Return to Saffron Walden and take
traditional Suffolk pink, Thaxted Walden sits on the River Cam, in pris­ B184 south (clearly signed) to Thaxted.
tine Essex countryside. Dating in parts Park on the street.
from the 12th century, the town has
many half­timbered buildings, though 5 Thaxted
the Tudor­style town hall was built as Essex; CM6
late as 1761. Opened in 1835, Saffron A pleasing, small town which boasts
Walden Museum (open Tue–Sun; www. ancient, timber­framed houses and a
saffronwaldenmuseum.org) is one of 14th­century Guildhall complete with
Britain’s oldest public museums. It jail (open Easter–Sep: Sun and for special
VISITING SUDBURY stands in a meadow, beside the exhibitions). There’s also a windmill
ruins of 12th­century Walden castle built in 1804, almshouses and, on the
Tourist Information
The Library, Market Hill, CO10 2EN; and offers eclectic collections – from hilltop, the magnificent Church of St
01787 881 320 Egyptian sarcophagi and mammoth John the Baptist. Dating to the 14th
River Stour Trust tusks to displays about the people century, the “Cathedral of Essex” is
The Granary, Quay Lane, CO10 2AN; and natural history of the region. held by some to be the finest parish
01787 313 199; www.riverstourtrust.org ª From the centre, follow signs on church in the country. The town’s
B1383 to Audley End and car park. famous residents have included
WHERE TO STAY composer Gustav Holst, who lived
Below Audley End, one of the finest Jacobean here 1914–25, when writing his
SAFFRON WALDEN houses in England Planets Suite, and highwayman Dick
Saffron Hotel moderate
This classic market­town hotel, dating
back to the 16th century, offers 16
comfortable en­suite rooms in a handy
central location.
8–12 High Street, CB10 1AZ; 01799
522 676; www.saffronhotel.co.uk
THAXTED
Swan Hotel moderate
A refurbished hotel, this traditional
coaching inn provides spruce, comfort­
able accom modation at reasonable
prices. Check for special offers. Restau­
rant serves traditional English food.
Bull Ring, CM6 2PL; 01371 830 321;
www.swanhotel-thaxted.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


112-117_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 114 20/07/18 8:09 PM

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country 115


Turpin (1705–39), whose cottage can
be seen on the alley up to the church.
ª Take Bardfield Road right, signed
“the Bardfields”, to Great Bardfield
and B1057 left to Finchingfield. Park
on street.
6 Finchingfield
Essex; CM7
A picture-postcard village, reputedly
the most photographed in England,
with thatched cottages, village green,
duck pond, windmill and Norman
Church of St John the Baptist. Dodie
Smith, author of The One Hundred and
One Dalmatians, once lived here.
ª Cross the bridge. Turn right past the
church to Wethersfield, head east along Above War Memorial by the village green and
the High Street to Sible Hedingham. Go and a bronze statue of the painter pond at Finchingfield
left on A1017 and then right on B1058. Thomas Gainsborough (1727–88),
Follow signs to the car park. which presides over the market square.
Modern commercial development has EAT AND DRINK
been at some cost to historic charm,
but Gainsborough’s House (open daily; SAFFRON WALDEN
www.gainsborough.org), a typical Suffolk Kim’s Coffee House inexpensive
building, has a unique collection of the Home-baked cakes and scones,
sandwiches and filled baguettes, and a
work of this master of portraiture and vast choice of leaf teas can be enjoyed
landscape. Loaned works and local in the Georgian premises of this friendly
artists are frequently on display, too. establishment or outside, in the gardens.
In the walled garden stands a 400- 5 Hill Street, CB10 1EH; 01799 513 553;
year-old mulberry tree. South of www.kimstea.com; closed Sun
town, there are pleasant meadows AROUND SAFFRON WALDEN
to picnic in and river cruise boats Cricketers moderate
operate from the quayside, run by Locally sourced, seasonal, organic food
the River Stour Trust. takes pride of place at this 16th-century
Above Ancient mulberry tree in the grounds of ª Follow signs round one-way inn, run by the parents of TV chef Jamie
Gainsborough’s House, Sudbury system to Bury St Edmunds, A134. Oliver, 12 minutes’ drive from Saffron
Walden on the B1383/B10.8. The menu
Branch onto B1064 to Long Melford. features chicken, “lots of fish” and
7 Hedingham Castle homemade sausages.
Essex; CO9 3DJ Wicken Road, Clavering; CB11 4QT;
Cross a dry moat using a Tudor bridge 01799 550 442; www.thecricketers.co.uk
to reach the four-storey remains of HEDINGHAM CASTLE
this 12th-century castle (Apr–Sep, open Bell Inn inexpensive–moderate
Wed & Sun; www.hedinghamcastle.co.uk ), Beamed and timbered 15th-century
with its tall keep, banqueting hall and real-ale pub in extensive garden, serv-
minstrels’ gallery. The grounds and sur- ing freshly prepared, honest food, much
rounding woodlands are especially of it locally sourced. Turkish pizzas from
the wood-fired oven Wednesdays to
lovely in spring when carpeted with Saturdays, while Monday nights during
bluebells. In summer, there may be summer is barbecued fish night.
jousting and other spectacles. CO9 3EJ; 01787 460350; www.
ª Take B1058, then A131 to Sudbury. hedinghambell.co.uk
Join one-way system and follow signs to AROUND SUDBURY
car park by Tourist Information Centre. The Henny Swan moderate
This inn with garden on the banks of the
8 Sudbury Stour, south of Sudbury, has numerous
Suffolk; CO10 awards for its stylish gastropub cooking.
This ancient Suffolk wool town, amid Try, perhaps, smoked pigeon breast
salad for starters followed by venison
sublime countryside in the Stour Valley, loin with poached pear.
boasts no fewer than three medieval Above The imposing keep of 12th-century Henny Street, Great Henny, CO10 7LS;
churches, a Victorian corn exchange, Hedingham Castle 01787 267 953; www.thehennyswan.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


112-117_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 115 20/07/18 8:09 PM

116 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Constable Country
“The sound of water escaping from
mill dams, willows, old rotten planks,
slimy posts and brickwork, I love
such things. These scenes made me
a painter.” So wrote John Constable
(1776–1837), who would go on to
be recognized, with J M W Turner,
as one of the foremost landscape
artists of the 19th century. The
dramatic vistas, farmlands, water
meadows and marshes of the Stour
Valley and Dedham Vale, the big
skies and distant church spires, all
Above Tudor mansion of Kentwell Hall, built evoke Constable’s true spirit.
in 1554, Long Melford 9 Long Melford
Essex; CO10 9AA
This village is aptly named, with its horses. The humour and hospitality of
long high street lined with specialist Patrick Phillips – owner since 1970 – is
and independent shops, galleries and everywhere in evidence.
antiques emporia, bars, restaurants ª Head back towards Sudbury on
WHERE TO STAY and old inns. Holy Trinity Church, B1064, then follow one-way system to
LONG MELFORD dating from the late 15th century, is A134 (signed Colchester). Turn off left
Bull Hotel moderate grand and glorious and the Old Bull onto B1068 to Stoke-by-Nayland. Park
There are 25 comfortable en-suite rooms Inn (c. 1450) once played host to in the centre.
at this old but friendly and comfortable Beatle John Lennon. Delightful
half-timbered inn set in a central location. Georgian and Queen Anne cottages 0 Stoke-by-Nayland
Hall Street, CO10 9JG; 01787 378 494; overlook the green, as does turreted Suffolk; CO6 4QU
www.oldenglishinns.co.uk
Melford Hall (1554) (open late Mar–late Another wonderful Suffolk village, on
AROUND LONG MELFORD Oct: Wed–Sun pm; www.nationaltrust.org. a hilltop in Constable Country, Stoke-
Angel moderate uk), where Queen Elizabeth I once by-Nayland has plenty of attractive
Decent pub accommodation slept and where children’s author half-timbered and traditional pink-
and obliging service in this warm and Beatrix Potter sketched for her books washed cottages. St Mary’s Church,
friendly inn (first licensed in 1420). Head
north out of Long Melford on the A134 by the fishponds. Then, it’s into the car which features in a number of John
and turn right on Bridge Street Road at again and – “Parp, parp!” – head north, Constable’s paintings, was built from
Bridge Street to get to Lavenham. following tourist signs to the setting the profits of the local wool trade and
Market Place, Lavenham, CO10 9QZ; for the film Toad of Toad Hall. Kentwell dates mainly from the 14th and 16th
01787 247 388; www. Hall (check online calendar for opening centuries. It has a fine octagonal font
theangellavenham.co.uk
times: www.kentwell.co.uk) is a moated, and a well-preserved oak door,
DEDHAM red-brick Tudor mansion, with gardens adorned with a Tree of Jesse.
Dedham Hall and Fountain and a rare-breeds farm – home to ª Rejoin B1068 to Higham. Here, turn
House moderate Tamworth pigs, near-extinct Norfolk right and right to Stratford St Mary. At
This historic manor house hotel and
restaurant set in expansive grounds Horn sheep and huge Suffolk Punch the village sign turn left to the car park.
also has an artists’ studio and art school
housed in a converted Dutch barn. The
hotel offers 18 pleasant rooms (13 in
an annexe for painting holidays). The
place is run with a generous ethos.
Brook Street, CO7 6AD; 01206 323 027;
www.dedhamhall.co.uk
Sun Inn moderate–expensive
There are seven bedrooms furnished
to a high standard in this 15th-century
inn. The food on offer is good, too.
Expect imaginative breakfasts and a
restaurant featuring modern British
cooking. Also prepares delicious
picnics to order.
High Street, CO7 6DF; 01206 323 351;
www.thesuninndedham.com
Right St Mary’s Church, Stoke-by-Nayland,
a typical Suffolk “wool” church
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


112-117_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 116 13/09/18 3:59 PM

DRIVE 10: The River Cam and Constable Country 117














Above left 16th-century half-timbered house,
q Stratford St Mary munningsmuseum.org.uk), a showcase Stratford St Mary Above centre Sign for a
Suffolk; CO7 6YG for this artist, famous for his studies of 15th-century coaching inn in pretty Dedham
The southernmost village in Suffolk, racehorses, and an excellent painter Above right View of the River Stour from the
Stratford St Mary is another “Constable of landscapes. bridge, East Bergholt
Country” location. On the road in, look ª From the centre, take Manningtree
out for the fine pair of striped half- Road, left at T-junction, left onto A137, EAT AND DRINK
timbered houses, the Ancient House left at roundabout (still A137). Go left on
and Priest’s House (not open to the B1070 to East Bergholt. Park by church. LONG MELFORD
public), opposite the Post Office. Carry Gigi’s Trattoria inexpensive
on under the A12 to find flint-faced e East Bergholt Welcoming and genuine Italian
St Mary’s Church. The building is Suffolk; CO7 6UP eatery serving a short but excellent
mainly 15th century, but parts of it The birthplace of John Constable, this menu with the likes of proscuitto
may date back to the 1200s. Further village boasts more pubs than any and Emmental ravioli.
along the road (once known as Water other in Suffolk. The “ruined” flint towers Little St Mary’s, CO10 9HX; 01787 329
279; www.gigistrattoria.co.uk; closed
Lane) stands Ravenys, a private of the Church of St Mary the Virgin Mon & Tue
house immortalized in Constable’s were never completed. The bells, Scutchers moderate
painting A House on Water Lane. however, had already been cast and Excellent cooking from a fairly short
ª Continue on B1029 over A12 to now hang in a timber bell cage dating à la carte menu offering dishes such
Dedham and park by church. from 1531 – they are rung on Sunday as sautéed veal kidneys with pancetta,
mornings. Head down Flatford Road seared scallops with an asparagus
w Dedham (clearly signed) to visit Willy Lott’s velouté and fillet of halibut on a
prawn and chive chowder. They
Essex; CO7 6AZ Cottage and Flatford Mill – settings for have a very creditable wine list too.
This village retains some fine timber- two of Constable’s famous paintings, Westgate Street, CO10 9DP; 01787
framed and early-Georgian buildings, The Hay Wain and The Mill Stream. 310 200; www.scutchers.com;open
and the Church of St Mary the Virgin, Nearby, there are lovely walks on both Thu–Sat
built in 1492, whose graceful 40-m sides of the River Stour and rowing STOKE-BY-NAYLAND
(131-ft) tower appears in Constable’s boats can be rented for waterborne Crown Inn moderate
paint ings – his work The Ascension is adventures. The lovely East Bergholt A changing menu based on local
on display inside. The painter attended Place (Mar–Sep: open daily; www. ingredients includes catch of the day,
the Old Grammar School, founded by placeforplants.co.uk), just off the B1070, Bradfield potatoes and Colchester
Elizabeth I. Head east on Brook Street described as “a Cornish garden in asparagus, washed down with local
ales. Upmarket but friendly. Eleven
and follow the road to the Sir Alfred Suffolk”, and laid out 1900–14, features bedrooms and great breakfasts.
Munnings Art Museum (Apr–Oct: an arboretum and specialist plant Park Street, CO6 4SE; 01206 262 001;
open 2–5pm Wed–Sun; www. centre in a Victorian walled garden. www.crowninn.net
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow Trumpington St, there and back. Creative Inspiration
Take in the area’s wealth of beautiful Quintessential England From Long Melford 9, see the
and historic buildings alongside Staying at Saffron Walden 3, see two great halls with links to popular
idyllic English scenery. its town hall and museum, before children’s books. Visit Sudbury 8, to
A University Education touring the mansion at Audley End learn about Gainsborough, then take
the Constable tour through Stoke-
In Cambridge 1, enjoy the walk 4. Then off to Thaxted 5, for more by-Nayland 0, Stratford St Mary q,
around stunning architecture, some of half-timbered buildings and church. and Dedham w, and East Bergholt
it over 800 years old. Picnic and punt Drive on to pretty Finchingfield 6, e, to see the places and countryside
along the Cam, then drive the short and finish the day with a visit to that inspired the great artist.
distance to Grantchester 2 for tea, Hedingham Castle 7.
before returning to Cambridge. Follow the drive instructions. Follow the drive instructions.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


112-117_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 117 20/07/18 8:09 PM

118-119_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 118 30/03/2017 14:16
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 11 WALES Exeter ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol Bristol Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London Cardiff London Cardiff London London
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
The Broads
and the North
Norfolk Coast Leeds Leeds
Leeds
Manchester
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
From Norwich WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh
Birmingham
WALES
ENGLAND
to Heacham Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Edinburgh Newcastle Newcastle
Cardiff
London
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
Highlights
• Historic county town
Begin your tour with an exploration of
endearing Norwich – the old county
town of Norfolk that “has everything”
• Wonderful waterworld
Discover the world-famous Norfolk Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Inverness
Broads, filled with history and wildlife Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
Aberdeen
SCOTLAND
under the big skies of East Anglia SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow
• Seaside secrets Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Escape the crowds on open sandy
Newcastle
beaches, in pretty fishing villages and at Carlisle Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle
Carlisle
ENGLAND
quintessentially English seaside resorts ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
• Coastal cuisine
Eat Cromer crab fresh off the boats,
Stewkey Blue cockles on the beach
and fish and chips on the pier
Glorious sunrise scenery under the wide
open skies of the Norfolk Broads
118-119_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 119 30/03/2017 14:16

120 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

The Broads and the North Norfolk Coast

This drive begins in the bustling and historic county town of Norwich before
cutting through the beautiful Norfolk Broads National Park, where the flat still
waters magnify the sunlight streaming from wide skies. Then it heads to the
sea, simply following the spectacular coastline west. It’s one of the few places
in the country where you can see the sun both rise and set in the ocean in a
spectacular display of pinks, oranges and mauves. And if the drive ever feels a
long way from the sea, simply turn off the main road to find safe, sandy beaches,
fishing villages and old-fashioned English resorts. The trip is clearly best enjoyed
in fine weather, with glorious opportunities for swimming and sunbathing, but
lowering skies and storm-tossed seas also make for dramatic scenery. Walkers,
birdwatchers, naturalists and photographers will be in their element among
unspoilt salt marshes and wild shores.


HolkhamHolkham
BrancasterBrancaster BayBay BlakeneyBlakeney
BayBay BurnhamBurnham HarbourHarbour CLEY NEXT CLEY NEXT
Holme-next-Holme-next- DeepdaleDeepdale HolkhamHolkham THE SEATHE SEA
WELLS NEXT
the-Seathe-Sea BrancasterBrancaster WELLS NEXT MorstonMorston Salthouse WEYBOURNE
Salthouse WEYBOURNE
THE SEA
THE SEA SHERINGHAM
SHERINGHAM
Holkham
Old HunstantonOld Hunstanton ThornhamThornham Holkham StiffkeyStiffkey BLAKENEYBLAKENEY Nor thNor th
HallHall
CROMER
BURNHAM
HUNSTANTON
WEST
T heT he HUNSTANTON BURNHAM BurnhamBurnham LanghamLangham WivetonWiveton Upper WEST CROMER Overstrandand SeaSea
Upper
ThorpeThorpe
MARKET
Overstr
RUNTON
Sheringham
WashWash RingsteadRingstead MARKET WightonWighton BinhamBinham FieldField Sheringham RUNTON
SummerfieldSummerfield DallingDalling LetheringsettLetheringsett Trimingham
Trimingham
GreatGreat Gresham
Gresham
HEACHAMHEACHAM North CreakeNorth Creake WalsinghamWalsingham Holt Holt
Roughton
LittleLittle SharringtonSharrington North North Roughton
Metton
Barningham
SedgefordSedgeford DockingDocking StanhoeStanhoe South South WalsinghamWalsingham Barningham Metton
MUNDESLEY
Gimingham
CreakeCreake NORFOLKNORFOLK Hunworth Gimingham MUNDESLEY
Hunworth
Thorpe
Trunch
Market
Paston
Plumst
Market
SnettishamSnettisham GunthorpeGunthorpe Plumsteadead Thorpe Trunch Paston
FringFring EastEast GreatGreat
IngoldisthorpeIngoldisthorpe BarshamBarsham SnoringSnoring BarneyBarney BrininghamBriningham Bradfield
Bradfield
Keswick
Knapton
SyderstoneSyderstone Wickmere Antingham Knapton Keswick
Wickmere
Antingham
Briston
ShernborneShernborne BirchamBircham Briston Edingthorpe
Edingthorpe
Swafield
Happisburgh
Calthorpe
DersinghamDersingham ToftsTofts Calthorpe Suffield Swafield Happisburgh
Suffield
Saxthorpe
KEY Saxthorpe
Banningham North Walsham
Banningham
North Walsham
Oulton
Drive route Oulton Felmingham
Felmingham
Honing
East Ruston
Blick
Blicklingling Tuttington Honing East Ruston
Tuttington
ACTIVITIES
Aylsham
Worst
Below Norwich’s Art Nouveau Royal Parade, first Aylsham Worsteadead Dilham
Dilham
Ingham
Skeyton
Canoe along the tiny creeks and shallow lakes of the opened in 1899, see p122 Marsham Skeyton Stalham Ingham
Stalham
Marsham
Fairst
Norfolk Broads from Horning Fairsteadead Smallburgh Sutton
Smallburgh
Sutton
Buxton
Buxton
Hunt for crabs and shrimps in tidal pools at Mundesley Hevingham Stratton Neatishead Catfield
Hevingham
Stratton
Catfield
Neatishead
Strawless Bure Bure
Strawless
Catch a traditional end-of-the-pier show at Cromer Irsteadead
Irst
Coltishall
Coltishall Hoveton Ludham
Hoveton
Ludham
Walk along the Norfolk Coast Path at Sheringham Frettenham St John T heT he
St John
Frettenham
Felthorpe WroxhamWroxham
Felthorpe
HORNING
See a bittern or marsh harrier in the salt marshes at Horsham Crostwick Br oadsBr oads HORNING
Crostwick
Horsham
Cley-next-the-Sea St Faithaith
St F
Woodbastwick
Woodbastwick
Rackheath
Rackheath
Drayton
Take a boat to Blakeney Point to see the migrant terns, Drayton South South
Walsham
dunlin and wigeon and the resident seal colony Catton Sprowston Little Little Walsham
Sprowston
Catton
Plumst
Plumsteadead
Great Great
Picnic in the glorious sand dunes at Wells-next-the-Sea Plumsteadead
Plumst
Thorpe Blofield
Thorpe
Blofield
Eat a cup of delicious Stewkey Blue cockles doused in Colney St Norwich
St Norwich
Colney
Brundall
plenty of vinegar, while sitting on the beach NORWICH Brundall
NORWICH
Cringleford
Go shopping in Burnham Market, known as “Chelsea on Sea” Cringleford Kirby Kirby
Redon
Redon
Bixley Bixley
Watch the sun sink into the sea from the stripy cliffs
of Hunstanton
120-121_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 120 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 11: The Broads and the North Norfolk Coast 121


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Norwich to Heacham.
Number of days: 3 days.
Distances: Around 160 km (100 miles).
Road conditions: Generally well-
maintained and unchallenging.
When to go: From late May to
September is best for sun, sand and sea.
Opening times: Galleries, museums
and attractions are generally open
10am–5pm, but often close earlier Nov–
Above View from the pier of Cromer beach, washed by the North Sea, see p124 Easter. Shops are often open longer.
Churches are usually open until dusk.
0 kilometres 10
Main market days: Norwich:
HolkhamHolkham 0 miles 10 provisions market, Mon–Sat; North
BrancasterBrancaster BayBay BlakeneyBlakeney Walsham: Farmers’ Market, last Sun of
BayBay BurnhamBurnham HarbourHarbour CLEY NEXT CLEY NEXT
Holme-next-Holme-next- DeepdaleDeepdale HolkhamHolkham THE SEATHE SEA month: Cromer: 1st and 3rd Fri of month;
WELLS NEXT
the-Seathe-Sea BrancasterBrancaster WELLS NEXT MorstonMorston Salthouse WEYBOURNE Sheringham: Wed and Sat; Burnham
Salthouse WEYBOURNE
THE SEA SHERINGHAM
THE SEA
SHERINGHAM
Holkham
Old HunstantonOld Hunstanton ThornhamThornham Holkham StiffkeyStiffkey BLAKENEYBLAKENEY Nor thNor th Market: Farmer’s Market, 1st Sat and
HallHall
CROMER
BURNHAM
HUNSTANTON
WEST
T heT he HUNSTANTON BURNHAM BurnhamBurnham LanghamLangham WivetonWiveton Upper WEST CROMER Overstrandand SeaSea 3rd Fri of month; Hunstanton: Sun.
Upper
ThorpeThorpe
MARKET
Overstr
RUNTON
Sheringham
WashWash RingsteadRingstead MARKET WightonWighton BinhamBinham FieldField Sheringham RUNTON Shopping: Norwich has some good
SummerfieldSummerfield DallingDalling LetheringsettLetheringsett Trimingham shops, especially the Royal Arcade,
Trimingham
GreatGreat Gresham
Gresham
HEACHAMHEACHAM North CreakeNorth Creake WalsinghamWalsingham Holt Holt as does Burnham Market. Find great
Roughton
LittleLittle SharringtonSharrington North North Roughton
SedgefordSedgeford DockingDocking StanhoeStanhoe South South WalsinghamWalsingham Barningham Metton seafood – Cromer crab, Stewkey Blue
Barningham
Metton
MUNDESLEY
Gimingham
CreakeCreake NORFOLKNORFOLK Hunworth Gimingham MUNDESLEY cockles and samphire – on the coast.
Hunworth
Thorpe
Trunch
Market
Plumst
Market
Paston
SnettishamSnettisham GunthorpeGunthorpe Plumsteadead Thorpe Trunch Paston
FringFring EastEast GreatGreat
IngoldisthorpeIngoldisthorpe BarshamBarsham SnoringSnoring BarneyBarney BrininghamBriningham Bradfield Major festivals: Norwich: Norfolk &
Bradfield
Keswick
Knapton
SyderstoneSyderstone Wickmere Antingham Knapton Keswick Norwich Festival, May; Royal Norfolk
Wickmere
Antingham
Briston
ShernborneShernborne BirchamBircham Briston Edingthorpe
Edingthorpe
Swafield
Happisburgh
Calthorpe
DersinghamDersingham ToftsTofts Calthorpe Suffield Swafield Happisburgh Show, late Jun; Food & Drink Festival,
Suffield
Saxthorpe
Saxthorpe Sep; Cley: Little Festival of Poetry, Oct;
Banningham North Walsham Wells-next-the-Sea: Holkham Country
North Walsham
Banningham
Oulton
Oulton
Felmingham
Felmingham Honing Fair, Jul; Burnham Market: Flower
Honing
East Ruston
Blick
Blicklingling Tuttington East Ruston Show & Carnival, Jul, Concerts, Aug;
Tuttington
Aylsham Worsteadead Hunstanton: Arts Festival, Jun, Jul;
Aylsham
Worst
Dilham
Dilham
Skeyton
Ingham
Skeyton Ingham Norfolk: Broads Outdoors Festival,
Stalham
Marsham Stalham May, within the National Park.
Marsham
Fairst
Fairsteadead Smallburgh
Smallburgh
Sutton
Buxton
Buxton Sutton
Hevingham Stratton Neatishead Catfield
Hevingham
Stratton
Neatishead
Catfield
Strawless Bure Bure DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Strawless
Irst
Irsteadead
Coltishall
Coltishall Hoveton Ludham Something for everyone. From Norwich
Hoveton
Ludham
St John T heT he
St John
Frettenham
Frettenham spend half a day walking in the historic
Felthorpe
Felthorpe WroxhamWroxham HORNING centre, then go to Horning for a canoe
HORNING
Crostwick
Horsham Crostwick Br oadsBr oads trail through the Broads. Nature lovers
Horsham
St F
St Faithaith
Woodbastwick
Woodbastwick can get close to some marine animals,
Rackheath
Drayton Rackheath then try a boat trip to see the birds and
Drayton
South South
Little Little Walsham seals at Blakeney, and go birdwatching
Walsham
Sprowston
Catton Sprowston Plumsteadead
Catton
Plumst
Great Great on the Cley marshes. Families can visit
Plumst
Plumsteadead the animal sanctuary at West Runton,
Thorpe Blofield enjoy a train ride from Sheringham
Thorpe
Blofield
St Norwich
St Norwich
Colney and inspect the tanks at Weybourne.
Colney
Brundall
NORWICH
NORWICH Brundall Alternatively, spend the morning at
Cringleford
Cringleford Kirby Kirby grand Holkham Hall before browsing
Redon
Redon
Bixley Bixley in the shops of Burnham Market and
enjoying the aromas of a lavender
farm. For full details, see p127.
120-121_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 121 20/07/18 7:25 PM

122 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

1 Norwich
Norfolk; NR2 1TF
“Norwich has everything” wrote architectural historian Nikolaus
Pevsner in 1962 – a cathedral and castle, grand halls, cobbled streets
lined with ancient buildings, museums, theatres, bars and restaurants,
a 900-year-old market, many shops, and two rivers – the Wensum and
Yare. The old county town of Norfolk, Norwich makes an ideal base for
exploring the East Anglian countryside, the Fens and Norfolk Broads.

Two-hour walking tour walk down Bedford Street and Lobster
Start at the magnificent cathedral 1, Lane, then left onto Lower Goat Lane;
with the second-tallest spire in the UK. continue to find City Hall 5 lording it
It was built by the Normans over Market Square. Built in
1096–1145, although the the 1930s, this has the
spire was not completed until longest balcony in England
1480. Flanking the West Door, and its sonorous clock bell –
Above View of Norwich Cathedral, built in the in niches, are two recent Great George – is the largest
11th and 12th centuries figures by David Holgate who in Europe. Descend into the
used local people for his square and head to the right
VISITING NORWICH models. Turn right into to see the 15th-century
Parking Tombland from Erpingham Church of St Peter Mancroft
The city centre can be confusing to Gate 2, where there is a bust 6, dedicated to St Peter and
drivers but the largest central car parks of Edith Cavell, a Norfolk nurse St Paul, whose symbols
are Chapelfield and Castle Mall, or use
park-and-ride facilities around the city. executed by the Germans in appear on either side of the
World War I for helping British north porch. Wander through
Tourist Information and French soldiers to escape. Stained-glass, the market to emerge on to
The Forum, Millennium Plain, NR2 1TF;
01603 213 999; www.visitnorwich.co.uk Turn right into Palace Street Norwich Cathedral Gentleman’s Walk and pass
and left and left again to walk through the Art Nouveau
down Quayside, along a short stretch Royal Arcade 7, designed by George
WHERE TO STAY of the Wesum. Take a left on Wesum Skipper and opened in 1899. The
Street and right onto cobbled Elm Hill, arcade is lined with traditional old
NORWICH lined with cottages and antique shops, shops. Exit to see Norwich Castle 8
Gothic House moderate noting the tiny Church of St Simon (open daily, pm only on Sun; www.
Three-storey Georgian house with and St Jude 3, the second most museums.norfolk.gov.uk), looming
two delightful, period-style rooms,
and while neither is en suite, they do ancient in Norwich. Fork right and above on a mound, with its Norman
have access to their own bathrooms. right again onto St Andrew’s Street keep and garden. From 1345, this
King’s Head Yard, NR3 1JE; 01603 631 879; and take a left on Bridewell Alley to served as a prison and place of public
www.gothic-house-norwich.com find the Bridewell Museum 4 (open execution, but since Victorian times it
Maids Head moderate Tue–Sat; www.museums.norfolk.gov.uk), has been a museum with displays of
With en-suite four-star accommodation which tells the story of Norwich and art, archaeology and history. Beyond
and guest parking, this is a handy city- its people. To continue, turn right and the castle, go left on Market Avenue
centre hotel. It also has a great old bar.
20 Tombland, NR3 1LB; 01603 209 955;
www.maidsheadhotel.co.uk Below Cobbled street and traditional shops in Elm Hill, Norwich
HORNING
Moorhen B&B moderate
A delightful old guesthouse with two
garden rooms, two rooms overlooking
the River Bure and a family “cabin” room.
45 Lower Street, N12 8AA; 01692 631
444; www.themoorhenhorning.co.uk
AROUND MUNDESLEY
Beechwood Hotel moderate
This characterful, creeper-covered hotel
has 18 en-suite rooms just off the A149
in North Walsham, south of Mundesley.
The proprietors are friendly and
welcoming. It’s worth considering
the hotel as a dining option, too.
Cromer Road, NR28 0HD; 01692 403
231; www.beechwood-hotel.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


122-127_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 122 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 11: The Broads and the North Norfolk Coast 123

EAT AND DRINK
NORWICH
Wensum Micawbers Tavern inexpensive
C O L E G A T E Q U A Y S I D E P A L A C E S T R E E T Great little local pub with a
tremendous line up of draught
O A K S T R E E T
92 Pottergate, NR2 1DZ; 01603 626 627
Church of St Simon WENSUM ST Cathedral beers and a decent food menu.
ELM HI LL Ruth’s Kitchen inexpensive
and St Jude
Erpingham This daytime-only restaurant offering
D U K E S T R E E T
P R I N C E S S T RE E T dishes with a distinct Middle Eastern
ST BE N E D IC TS ST ST ANDREWS ST T O M B L A N D Gate slant is a terrific spot for lunch.
Bridewell 39 Magdalene Street, NR3 LQ; 07775 964
015; www.ruthskitchen.org; closed Sun
Museum
BEDFORD ST BANK PLAIN Waffle House inexpensive
LOBSTER LANE
Enjoy Belgian waffles cooked to order
LANE
CASTLE MEADOW MARKET AV UPPER KING ST P R I N C E O F W A L E S R O A D with a variety of toppings – sweet and
ST GILES ST
LOWER GOAT
ST PETERS STREET MARKET R O S E L A N E to queue at peak times.
City Hall Norwich KING STREET savoury, plain and wholemeal. Expect
Castle
SQUARE
39 St Giles Street, NR2 1JN; 01603 612
Church of Royal 790; www.wafflehousenorwich.co.uk
CAT TLE MARKET ST 0 metres 250 & Restaurant
St Peter Mancroft Arcade Britons Arms Coffee House
inexpensive-moderate
THEATRE STREET
FARMERS AVENUE
0 yards
250
This charming thatched restaurant
in a medieval setting serves sublime
local dishes such as Norfolk asparagus
quiche and Cromer crab tarte.
and right on Upper King Street, back The Norfolk Broads 9 Elm Hill, NR3 1HN; 01603 623 367;
to Tombland and the cathedral. Britain’s largest nationally protected closed Sun; www.britonsarms.co.uk
ª From the cathedral cross the river to wetland has a network of rivers, lakes Bishop’s Dining Room moderate
A1151 to Hoveton St John, take a right (broads) and marshes that abound Elegant, pink-washed restaurant with
on A1062; pay parking on the right. with rare flora and fauna. It’s a haven short, interesting set lunch and dinner
for birds such as wigeon, teal, marsh menus that include veggie, meat and
harriers and bitterns, plants such as
2 Horning the fen orchid or ragged robin and fish options and home-baked bread.
8–10 St Andrew’s Hill, NR2 1AD; 01603
Norfolk; NR12 8AA butterflies such as the swallowtail. 767 321; open Tue–Sat; www.
This pretty village, downriver from Visitors can fish, take a boat trip, cycle bishopsrestaurant.co.uk
Wroxham, has thatched cottages, or walk through watery landscapes, Last Wine Bar & Restaurant
shops, waterside inns and restaurants. admiring the villages, churches and moderate
The Galley deli on Lower Street sells windmills. Contact Broads Authority, Housed in a former shoe factory,
Yare House, 62–64 Thorpe Road,
picnic fare, perfect for an outing Norwich, NR3 1BQ; 01603 610 734; this restaurant offers imaginative
on the river. Summer guided canoe www.broads-authority.gov.uk. cuisine such sea trout with
tours and trails provide the ideal way scorched cucumber and oyester.
76 St George’s Street, NR3 1AB; 01603
to explore the Broads, venturing into 626 626; www.lastwinebar.co.uk;
peaceful backwaters inaccessible mundesleymaritimemuseum.co.uk) in a closed Sun
to motor vehicles and walkers – try former coastguards’ look-out, possibly
01603 783 777; www.thecanoeman.com. the smallest museum in the country.
ª Return to Hoveton St John and turn ª Head northwest on the B1159, Below Thatched cottage in the attractive
right on to A1151, turn left on to A149; the coast road to Cromer. riverside village of Horning
carry straight on to B1145 to Mundesley.
3 Mundesley
Norfolk; NR11 8JH
The golden, sandy beaches at this
old-fashioned resort, with its gaily
painted beach huts, are among the
finest in Norfolk. At low tide, children
splash around in the sun-warmed tidal
pools. Above the beach there’s a 3-m
(10-ft) bomb-shaped war memorial
to the 36 men killed clearing mines
from the Norfolk coast after World
War II and tiny Mundesley Maritime
Museum (Jun–mid-Sep; closed Sat; www.
122-127_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 123 20/07/18 7:25 PM

124 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


BOAT TRIPS
For trips to Blakeney Point to see
the seal and seabird colonies, try
Beans Boats (01263 740 038; www.
beansboattrips.co.uk) or Temples
Seal Trips (01263 740 791; www.
sealtrips.co.uk) at Morston Quay or
Bishops Boats (01263 740 753; www.
bishopsboats.com) at Blakeney Quay.
WHERE TO STAY
CROMER
Cliftonville Hotel moderate
Distinguished Edwardian hotel with a
mix of standard and executive rooms,
many with tremendous coastal views.
Seafront, NR27 9AS; 01263 512 543;
www.cliftonvillehotel.co.uk
AROUND SHERINGHAM
Dales Country House Hotel expensive
Twenty-one good en-suite rooms are on
offer here, in a former rectory in grounds
by Sheringham Park, on B1157 south.
Lodge Hill, Upper Sheringham, Above left Historic station on the North Norfolk Railway Poppy Line, Sheringham Above top right Horse
NR26 8TJ; 01263 824 555;
www.dalescountryhouse.co.uk grazing at the Hillside Animal and Shire Horse Sanctuary Above right Rhododendrons at Sheringham Park
WEYBOURNE 4 Cromer 5 West Runton
Weybourne Forest Lodges moderate Norfolk; NR27 0AH Norfolk; NR27 9QH
Well-equipped, comfortable lodges in A resort of note since the 18th century, This attractive village is home to the
in a delightful sylvan setting.
Sandy Hill Lane, NR25 7HW; 01263 588 Cromer is best known for its delicious Hillside Animal and Shire Horse
440; www.weybourneforestlodges.co.uk crabs. From April to September, boats Sanctuary (Jun–Aug: open Sun–Fri;
ply to and from crab banks out at sea, Apr–May, Sep–Oct: open Sun–Thu: closed
CLEY-NEXT-THE-SEA landing the local delicacy. Along the winter; 08448 845 111; www.hillside.org.uk).
Cley Windmill expensive front, tall Victorian houses look out to The rescued animals include ponies,
This converted windmill offers B&B
or self-catering facilities as well as the ocean, over the sand-and-shingle pigs, cattle, goats, alpacas, rabbits,
home-cooked dinner by candlelight. beach. Also, overlooking the beach is ducks, hens and some magnificent
Cley Windmill, NR25 7RP; 01263 740 the RNLI Henry Blogg Museum (closed heavy work horses – many of them up
209; www.cleywindmill.co.uk Mon) offering an interesting history of for “adoption” (sponsorship). There’s
AROUND BLAKENEY the RNLI and drinks and cake in the much to delight young children, and
Morston Hall expensive café upstairs. The pier’s Pavilion the wonderful collection of old carts,
A luxurious manor house with great sea Theatre still hosts traditional end-of- farm machinery and wooden caravans
views and an award-winning restaurant. the-pier shows. In town, the tower will occupy older minds.
Morston, Holt, NR25 7AA (12km/7miles of St Peter and St Paul Church soars ª Keep west on A149 to Sheringham.
on the A149); 01263 741 041;
www.morstonhall.com to a stunning 49 m (160 ft) and may
be climbed at certain times for 6 Sheringham
Below Traditional seaside pier with theatre breathtaking views over the area. Norfolk; NR26 8RA
at Cromer beach ª Head west on A149 to West Runton. A former fishing village, Sheringham is
now a thriving, very English holiday
resort, with clifftop gardens, arcades
and golden sands. Its situation on the
Norfolk Coast Path makes the resort
an ideal base for walkers. From the
A149 follow signs to Sheringham Park
(mid-Mar–Sep: open daily; Oct: open Wed–
Sun; Nov–mid-Mar: open Sat & Sun; www.
nationaltrust.org.uk), with paths through
parks and National Trust gardens
landscaped by Humphry Repton
(1752–1818). Take a trip by steam
or vintage diesel train on the North
Norfolk Railway Poppy Line (Jun–Sep:
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


122-127_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 124 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 11: The Broads and the North Norfolk Coast 125


open daily; check at other times; 01263 8 Cley-next-the-Sea
820 808; www.nnrailway.co.uk). With a Norfolk; NR25 7SZ
“Rover” ticket for a day’s travel, board A thriving port in medieval times,
and alight at will. There is a charming Cley is now some distance inland.
station building, complete with period In its heyday, it exported wool to the
furnishings, at the western terminus, Netherlands and imported curved
just 8 km (5 miles) from Sheringham gables, Flemish bricks and pantiles.
and not far from the flower-filled Cley Windmill is an 18th-century mill
Georgian town of Holt, a repeated that has been converted into a B&B
finalist in the Anglia In Bloom contest. with views of the salt marsh and bird
ª Carry on A149 west to Weybourne. sanctuary. The owners usually let
visitors have a look inside. Visit the
Norfolk Wildlife Trust visitor centre
(www.norfolkwildlifetrust.org.uk) on the
marshes, east of town. Facilities include
a remote camera, a café, hides for
bird-watching and an audio trail. Above Sign for the village of Blakeney
ª Carry on west on A149 to Blakeney. painted according to Norfolk tradition
9 Blakeney EAT AND DRINK
Norfolk; NR25 7SZ CROMER
Like Cley, this was a busy port in Rocket House Café and
ancient times but, since the harbour Restaurant inexpensive
has silted up, only small craft can Visit this stylish place above the RNLI
navigate the creeks. The village is Henry Blogg Museum (with lift access),
delightful, with attractive flint cottages, for coffee and a cake, or a meal of local
seafood with unsurpassed sea views.
a 14th-century guildhall and places The Gangway, Promenade, NR27 9ET;
to shop, eat, drink and stay. However, 01263 519 126; www.rockethousecafe.
Above Little station on the North Norfolk Railway the greatest draw for visitors are the co.uk
Poppy Line, Weybourne boat trips to Blakeney Point, which WEYBOURNE
put out from here and neighbouring
7 Weybourne Morston, to the west. These trips, The Ship Inn inexpensive–moderate
Simplicity is key in this attractive old pub.
Norfolk; NR25 7SZ lasting one to two hours, provide an The short menu features delicious local
This attractive village (pronounced excellent way to view seabirds and dishes such as seafood chowder.
“Webbon”’) sits amid farm and heath basking seals in their natural environ- The Street, NR25 7SZ; 01263 588 721;
land. It has a famously steep, pebbly ment, without unduly disturbing them. www.theshipinnweybourne.com
beach, a historic station on the Poppy The seal colony, a mix of common and AROUND WEYBOURNE
Line and the Muckleburgh Collection grey seals, numbers some 500 individ- Cookies Crab Shop inexpensive
(Mar: open Sat & Sun; Apr–Oct: open daily; uals. Common seals have their young Try the soups and local fish at this
01263 588 210; www.muckleburgh.co.uk), or pups Jun–Aug; the greys Nov–Jan. café/shop. Bring your own alcohol.
Britain’s largest private collection of ª Take the A149 west via Stiffkey The Green, Salthouse, NR25 7AJ;
01263 740 352; www.salthouse.org.uk;
military vehicles and equipment. (pronounced “Stewkey”), famous for closed Mon
ª Take A149 west, via Salthouse – its cockles, with pretty flint cottages,
stopping off at Cookies Crab Shop. salt marshes and reed beds. CLEY-NEXT-THE-SEA
The George inexpensive–moderate
Good, honest fare with a few flourishes
can be enjoyed in this bird-watchers’
paradise. Consider the rooms, too.
High Street, NR25 7RN; 01263 740 652;
www.thegeorgehotelatcley.co.uk
BLAKENEY
The Blakeney White Horse
inexpensive–moderate
Seasonal seafood fresh off the boat,
good local produce and home-made
desserts. There are also a few rooms.
4 High Street, NR 25 7AL; 01263 740 574;
www.adnams.co.uk

Left Cley Windmill, set on the salt marshes and
popular with artists
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


122-127_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 125 20/07/18 7:25 PM

126 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


Stiffkey Blues
Local cockles known as “Stewkey
Blues” have been harvested on the
Stiffkey marshes for generations.
Their blue colour comes from their
anaerobic mud habitat. Often used
in fancy restaurant dishes, they are
best from a seafood stall, smothered
in vinegar and eaten on the beach.
& Thu; park open daily; www.holkham.
co.uk) is a fabulous Palladian-style
country seat amid a deer park, home
to Viscount and Viscountess Coke
(pronounced “Cook”). It houses a
treasury of statues, Old Masters,
antiques and tapestries. The Statue
Gallery contains one of the finest
Above Lobster and crab boats at the quayside private collections of classical
Wells-next-the-Sea 0 Wells-next-the-Sea sculpture, including a statue of
Norfolk; NR23 1AN Diana and a bust of Thucydides
A popular resort town, Wells got its from the 4th century BC. A notice
WHERE TO STAY name from the many clear springs in on the piano on the way in invites
the area. Today, as a result of silting, it able musicians to sit down and play.
WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA is more “near” than “next” the sea – The hall was a setting in the film The
Globe Inn moderate–expensive vessels must sail some way up inlets Duchess, starring Keira Knightley and
Eighteen bright and airy en-suite rooms to berth here, but the Ralph Fiennes.
are available in this refurbished inn. The
breakfast menu includes Cley smoked harbour is still a great ª Carry on A149, then left
haddock with poached egg, and there attraction. Stroll up to the on B1155. Park on-street.
are good-value bar snacks all day. grassy Georgian square
The Buttlands, N23 1EU; 01328 710 206; known as the Buttlands q Burnham Market
www.theglobeatwells.co.uk for a drink in either of the Norfolk; NR23 1AB
Victoria Hotel moderate–expensive village inns, the Crown Away from the coast, enjoy
A historic hotel on the edge of the or the Globe, or buy a the fine Georgian cottages
Holkham Estate, this has real-ale bars picnic from the Wells Deli bookended by two small
on the ground floor and an upmarket
restaurant. Some of the 10 en-suite and head for the beach. churches in this riverside
rooms have views over the marshes. Travel in style on the tiny, town, known as “Chelsea on
There are also three glorious self- narrow-gauge steam or Wells-next-the-Sea Sea”. Browse the hat and
catering lodges available. diesel Wells Harbour village sign dress shops, art gallery,
Park Road, NR23 1RG; 01328 711 008;
www.holkham.co.uk Railway (seasonal service). The jewellers, fish shop and
beautiful sands are backed by delicatessen, then have a deserved
BURNHAM MARKET expansive dunes and cooling pines. drink at the handsome Hoste Arms.
The Nelson inexpensive–moderate Just west, neighbouring Holkham ª Head north on the B1355, then turn
This pub has seven decent bedrooms Hall Estate (hall open Apr–Oct Sun, Mon left on A149.
with en-suite shower rooms in the
heart of this lovely village. There are
hearty breakfasts and bar meals that
make use of local ingredients.
Creake Road, PE31 8EN; 01328 738 321;
www.the-nelson.com
HUNSTANTON
Neptune Inn expensive
There are four pleasant en-suite
rooms at this handsome 18th-century
coaching inn. The Michelin-starred
restaurant uses mainly Norfolk
ingredients in the restaurant and bar.
85 Old Hunstanton Road, PE36 6HZ;
01485 532 122; www.theneptune.co.
uk; closed Mon
Right Creek into the harbour at
Wells-next-the-Sea
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


122-127_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 126 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 11: The Broads and the North Norfolk Coast 127














Above left Local produce at Burnham Market
Peddars Way and injured seals and other marine Above centre The famous striped cliffs of
The Norfolk Coast Path forms part of animals. Walk through an underwater Hunstanton Above right Bronze lioness,
the ancient Peddars Way, a scenic trail glass tunnel and be mesmerized by Holkham Hall, near Wells-next-the-Sea
that starts at Knettishall Heath, near sharks, seahorses, rays and other sea
Thetford, and runs across 74 km creatures in this safe habitat.
(46 miles) of mainly flat fenland to ª Head south on the A149. EAT AND DRINK
the sea near Hunstanton, following
an old Roman road. It hugs the coast WELLS-NEXT-THE-SEA
eastward to Cromer before turning e Heacham Crown Hotel moderate
inland and joining the Weavers’ Way Norfolk; PE31 The emphasis here is on local produce,
and Angles Way to Great Yarmouth. This seaside village is a popular seasonality and sustainability. The result
holiday destination, and the wide is good, inventive but unfussy cooking.
open sands attract kite-fliers and The Buttlands, NR23 1EX; 01328 710
w Hunstanton windsurfers. Like Hunstanton, 209; www.crownhotelnorfolk.co.uk
Norfolk; PE36 6BQ Heacham looks west across the vast BURNHAM MARKET
An old-fashioned, bucket-and-spade bay and enjoys the evening spectacle Hoste Arms moderate
sort of resort, “Sunny Hunny” has two of golden sunsets reflected in the Eat in comfortable dining-rooms or at
distinct geographical features. Its water. In 1614, the Algonquin Indian the bar from an imaginative menu of
award-winning sandy beaches are princess Pocahontas married the local produce – Brancaster oysters,
Cromer crab and Norfolk pork. There
overlooked by cliffs striped red, white Heacham local John Rolfe – commem- are also plenty of good rooms – Horatio
and brown and, although an east orated by a carving in the 13th-century Nelson is said to have stayed here.
coast town, it looks west, into glorious Norman St Mary’s Church. Just The Green, PE3 8HD; 01328 738 777;
sunsets over the Wash. History buffs outside the village, located in an www.hostearms.com
might like Old Hunstanton for its old watermill, is Norfolk Lavender AROUND HEACHAM
deeper roots and charm, but hidden (open daily; 01485 570 384; www.norfolk- Rose and Crown moderate
away among traditional amusements lavender.co.uk), with fragrant meadow Family-friendly, 14th-century beamed
on Hunstanton’s Southern Promenade garden, plant centre, herb garden inn with walled garden– try the beef
(with pay parking), is the fascinating and shop. Try lavender and lemon or lamb grazed on the salt marshes at
Sea Life Sanctuary (open daily; 01485 scones in the tearoom, take a Holkham, and fish and shellfish landed
off the Norfolk and Suffolk coast.
533 576; www.visitsealife.com). This is minibus tour of the blooming Old Church Road, Snettisham,
dedicated to the rescue, rehabilitation lavender fields in July, or visit the Rare PE31 7LX; 01485 541 382;
and release back into the wild of sick Breeds and Animal Centre on site. www.roseandcrownsnettisham.co.uk
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Wildlife Adventure animals at the sanctuary. Stop off at
There’s lots of choice here for history From Hunstanton w, visit the Sea Life Sheringham 6 for a railway ride and
buffs, nature lovers, families, and even Sanctuary to learn about the animals then head to Weybourne 7 for the
those who like life a little slower. up close. Then drive over to Blakeney amazing collection of military vehicles.
9 for a boat trip to see the sea birds
Norwich and the Broads and seals in their natural environment. Take the A149 there and back.
Staying at Norwich 1, explore the Finish up at Cley-next-the-Sea 8 A Genteel Day
town in the morning – see the castle, bird-watching in the salt marshes. Take a tour of the grand hall and
cathedral, historic centre and shops, estate at Holkham. Then drive to
then head for Horning 2 to buy a Take the A149 there and back. Burnham Market q, for some quaint
picnic and spend the afternoon on the Family Fun village life and a spot of shopping,
Broads in a canoe. Finally, enjoy a fish Starting at Cromer 4, enjoy the before heading for Heacham e
supper at Mundesley 3 by the sea. traditional resort atmosphere then set and a visit to the lavender farm.
Follow the instructions in this drive. off for West Runton 5, to see the farm Take the A149 there and back.


Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


122-127_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 127 20/07/18 7:25 PM

128-129_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 128 30/03/2017 14:16
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
London
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 12 Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol Bristol Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London Cardiff London Cardiff London London
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Borderlands
to Beacons
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Manchester From Hereford Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
Manchester
Birmingham ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES
WALES to Blaenavon WALES Birmingham
ENGLAND
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Bristol London London London
Newcastle Newcastle
Highlights ENGLAND ENGLAND
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
• Ancient and modern treasures
Wonder at Saxon and Norman
architecture, medieval artifacts and
modern ecclesiastic art in Hereford,
Kilpeck and Brecon
• Idyllic valley landscapes
Travel through the Vale of Ewyas with
its ancient priory, leaning church tower
Inverness and its pass over the Black Mountains Inverness Inverness Inverness
Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
• The book capital of the world
Glasgow Rummage through the books in Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Glasgow
Edinburgh
Hay-on-Wye, the world centre for
Newcastle
Newcastle antiquarian and second-hand books Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
• Industrial heritage
Step back in time and tour the
extraordinary collection of Industrial
Revolution sites at Blaenavon
Crickhowell countryside, on the eastern edge
of the Brecon Beacons
128-129_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 129 30/03/2017 14:16

130 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Borderlands to Beacons

Beginning in the compact English borders city of Hereford, with its beautiful
cathedral, this drive follows a route through the ecclesiastical highlights
of the “Golden Valley” (Abbey Dore) and Vale of Ewyas (Llanthony Priory). Michaelchurch Almeley Sarnesfield
Almeley
Michaelchurch
Sarnesfield
on Arrow
It then crosses into Wales to Hay-on-Wye, the book capital of the world, on Arrow Eardisley Kinnersley Canon
Canon
Kinnersley
Eardisley
Pyon Pyon
and through the glorious landscape of the Brecon Beacons National Park Whitney Willersley Wormsley Wellington
Wormsley
Wellington
Willersley
Whitney
before finishing in Blaenavon, a sprawling industrial World Heritage Site. Letton Mansell
Mansell
Letton
Wye
Painscastle Clifford Wye Staunton Lacy Lacy Pipe and
Painscastle
Clifford
Staunton
Pipe and
on Wye
Bredwardine
Clyro Clyro Bredwardine on Wye Lyde Lyde
Monnington Withington
Monnington
Withington
Credenhill
on Wye Bridge Credenhill Holmer
on Wye
Holmer
Bridge
HAY ON
Llowes HAY ON Sollers Swainshill
Swainshill
Llowes
Sollers
WYE WYE Dorstone
Dorstone
HEREFORDSHIRE HEREFORD
HEREFORDSHIRE
Tyberton
Llanigon
Boughrood Llanigon Tyberton Madley Breinton HEREFORD
Breinton
Boughrood
Madley
Glasbury Hampton
Hampton
Glasbury
Peterchurch
Peterchurch Wye
Bishop
Wye
Llyswen
Llyswen Bishop
Clehonger
Vowchurch
Aberllynfi Vowchurch Clehonger
Aberllynfi
Upper
Upper
Llandefalle Gospel Maes-coed Kingstone Allensmore Holme
Llandefalle
Holme
Maes-coed
Kingstone
Gospel
Allensmore
B l a c k M o u n t a i n s
Callow
Bronllys Pass Pass Callow Lacy Lacy
Bronllys
Pont-faen Garthbrengy Rhos Dirion Thruxton Bolstone
Pont-faen
Thruxton
Garthbrengy
Rhos Dirion
Bolstone
Dewsall
Llanfillo
Talgarth
Bacton
Felin F
Llandefaelog Felin Fachach Llanfillo Talgarth 713m 713m Llanveynock Bacton Dewsall
Llandefaelog
Llanveynock
Trefacca
fach fach Trefacca B l a c k M o u n t a i n s Wormbridge St Devereuxeux
St Dever
Much Dewchurch
Battle Battle Wormbridge Much Dewchurch
ABBEY DORE
Llanddew Waun Fach ABBEY DORE
Llanddew
Waun Fach
Longtown
Llanywern Llanfihangel
KILPECK
Aberyscir BRECON Llanywern Llanfihangel 811m 811m Longtown Ewyas Harold KILPECK Llandinabo
Aberyscir
BRECON
Llandinabo
Tal-y-llyn
Tal-y-llyn
Ewyas Harold
Llanwarne
Llanthony
Llangorse Llanthony Pontrilas Bagwy Llanwarne
Llangorse
Bagwy
Llydiart
Llanhamlach
Llanhamlach Pontrilas Llydiart
LLANGORSE LAKE
Orcop
Libanus LLANGORSE LAKE Llangua Orcop
Libanus
Llangua
Walterstone
Kentchurch
Scethrog
Cathedine
Cantref
BRECON BEACONS Cantref Scethrog Cathedine Walterstone Kentchurch Michaelchurch
Michaelchurch
BRECON BEACONS
Grosmont
NATIONAL PARK Usk k Llansantffreadead Cwmdu Cwmyoyyoy Grosmont St Weonards
NATIONAL PARK
Cwmdu
Cwm
St Weonards
Us
Llansantffr
POWYS Bwlch TRETOWER COURT Pandy Broad Broad
TRETOWER COURT
POWYS
AND CASTLE
Pandy
Bwlch
AND CASTLE
VALE OF
Treto
Tretowerwer Llanbedr VALE OF Llanfihangel Monnow Oak Oak
Llanfihangel
EWY
Monnow
Pen y Fan Llanbedr EWYASAS Crucorneyney Cross Ash
Pen y Fan
Cross Ash
Crucor
Skenfrith
886m 886m Llanddetty Skenfrith
B r e c o n B e a c o n
Llanddetty
B r e c o n B e a c o n s s
Llangynidr
Llangynidr
Crickhowell
Crickhowell
Llanddewi
Llangatt
Llangattockock Llantilio- Llanddewi
Skirrid
Llantilio-
Newcastle
Llanvetherine
Aber- Aber- pertholey Skirrid Llanvetherine Newcastle
pertholey
Cynafon Llantilio-
Cynafon
Llantilio-
Mynydd Mynydd Llanelly ABERGAVENNY Crossenny
Mynydd
ABERGAVENNY
Llanelly
Crossenny
Mynydd
Llangynidr Llangattwg
Llangattwg
Llangynidr
Llanvapley
Llanfoistoist Llanvapley
Llanf
Brynmawr Blackrockock
Brynmawr
Blackr
MONMOUTHSHIRE
Above From farmland to wilderness – the varied Nantyglo MONMOUTHSHIRE
Nantyglo
Dukestown
landscape of the Brecon Beacons, see p134 Dukestown Tregare
Tregare
Llanvihangel
Llanvihangel
Ebbw
Ebbw BLAENAVON nigh Usk
BLAENAVON
nigh Usk
Vale Vale
Below Pointed, arched doorway at Goetre Betts Betts
Goetre
ACTIVITIES Hereford Cathedral, see p132 Newydd
Newydd
Penperlleni
Abertillery Penperlleni
Abertillery
Map the 13th-century route to Jerusalem on the Mappa Abersychan Monkswood
Monkswood
Abersychan
Mundi at Hereford Cathedral Abergeey Little Little
Abergeey
MillMill
Taste some fine cider at Hereford’s Cider Museum Ebbw Llanhilleth Pontypool
Pontypool
Ebbw
Llanhilleth
Griffithstown
Griffithstown
Drive over stunning Gospel Pass for views of the Wye Valley Crumlin
Crumlin
Go fishing, birdwatching or take a boat out on the waters
of Wales’ largest natural lake at Llangorse
Walk glorious trails in the Brecon Beacons
Admire the medieval Jesse sculpture inside St Mary’s
Priory Church in Abergavenny
Go down a mine and reflect on South Wales’ industrial past
– a history which changed the modern world
130-131_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 130 20/07/18 7:47 PM

DRIVE 12: Borderlands to Beacons 131

0 kilometres 5 PLAN YOUR DRIVE
KEY
0 miles 5
Drive route Start/finish: Hereford to Blaenavon.
Number of days: 3, allowing half a
Michaelchurch Almeley Sarnesfield day to explore Hay-On-Wye.
Michaelchurch
Almeley
on Arrow Sarnesfield Canon
on Arrow
Canon
Kinnersley
Eardisley Kinnersley Pyon Pyon Distances: 175 km (110 miles).
Eardisley
Wormsley
Wormsley
Willersley
Whitney Willersley Wellington
Wellington
Whitney
Letton
Mansell
Wye
Painscastle Clifford Wye Letton Staunton Mansell Pipe and Road conditions: Good roads in most
Painscastle
places and well signposted. Some
Lacy Lacy
Clifford
Staunton
Pipe and
on Wye
Bredwardine
Clyro Clyro Bredwardine on Wye Lyde Lyde roads are narrow and quite rural.
Monnington Withington
Monnington
Withington
Credenhill
on Wye
on Wye Bridge Credenhill Holmer
Holmer
Bridge
HAY ON
Llowes HAY ON Sollers Swainshill When to go: Spring is pleasant but
Llowes
Sollers
Swainshill
WYE WYE Dorstone summer is best for outdoor activities.
Dorstone
HEREFORDSHIRE HEREFORD
HEREFORDSHIRE
Tyberton
Llanigon
Boughrood Llanigon Tyberton Madley Breinton HEREFORD Opening times: Museums and
Breinton
Boughrood
Madley
Glasbury Hampton
Hampton
Glasbury
Peterchurch Wye attractions are generally open 10am–
Peterchurch
Bishop
Wye
Llyswen Bishop
Llyswen
Clehonger
Aberllynfi Vowchurch Clehonger 5pm, but close earlier (or are closed
Vowchurch
Aberllynfi
Upper
Upper
Llandefalle Gospel Maes-coed Kingstone Allensmore Holme altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops are often
Holme
Llandefalle
Maes-coed
Gospel
Kingstone
Allensmore
B l a c k M o u n t a i n s
Callow
Bronllys Pass Pass Callow Lacy Lacy open longer. Churches are usually open
Bronllys
Pont-faen Garthbrengy Rhos Dirion Thruxton Bolstone until dusk. Some B&Bs close for winter.
Pont-faen
Thruxton
Garthbrengy
Rhos Dirion
Bolstone
Dewsall
Llanfillo
Talgarth
Bacton
Felin F
Llandefaelog Felin Fachach Llanfillo Talgarth 713m 713m Llanveynock Bacton Dewsall
Llandefaelog
Llanveynock
fach fach Trefacca B l a c k M o u n t a i n s Wormbridge St Devereuxeux Main market days: Hereford: Outdoor
Trefacca
St Dever
Much Dewchurch
Battle Battle Wormbridge Much Dewchurch
ABBEY DORE
Llanddew Waun Fach ABBEY DORE Retail Market, Wed, Fri & Sat; Butter
Llanddew
Waun Fach
Longtown
Llanywern Llanfihangel
KILPECK
Aberyscir BRECON Llanywern Llanfihangel 811m 811m Longtown Ewyas Harold KILPECK Llandinabo Market (foods and miscellaneous),
Aberyscir
Llandinabo
BRECON
Tal-y-llyn
Tal-y-llyn
Ewyas Harold
Llanwarne
Llanthony
Llangorse
Llangorse Llanthony Pontrilas Bagwy Llanwarne Mon–Sat; Hay-on-Wye: Butter Market
Bagwy
Llydiart
Llanhamlach Pontrilas Llydiart (food, antiques and bric a brac), Thu
Llanhamlach
LLANGORSE LAKE
Libanus LLANGORSE LAKE Llangua Orcop am; Brecon: Farmers’ Market, second
Orcop
Libanus
Llangua
Kentchurch
Walterstone
Scethrog
Cathedine
BRECON BEACONS
Cantref
Michaelchurch
BRECON BEACONS Cantref Scethrog Cathedine Walterstone Kentchurch Michaelchurch Sat of the month.
Grosmont
NATIONAL PARK Usk k Llansantffreadead Cwmdu Cwmyoyyoy Grosmont St Weonards
NATIONAL PARK
Cwmdu
St Weonards
Us
Cwm
Llansantffr
TRETOWER COURT
POWYS Bwlch TRETOWER COURT Pandy Broad Broad Shopping: Look out for apple juice
POWYS
Pandy
Bwlch
AND CASTLE
AND CASTLE
VALE OF
Treto
Tretowerwer Llanbedr VALE OF Llanfihangel Monnow Oak Oak around Crickhowell, as well as produce
Llanfihangel
EWY
Monnow
Pen y Fan Llanbedr EWYASAS Crucorneyney Cross Ash from the Black Mountain Smokery, plus
Pen y Fan
Cross Ash
Crucor
Skenfrith
886m 886m Llanddetty Skenfrith Welsh venison, lamb and Penderyn
Llanddetty
B r e c o n B e a c o n
B r e c o n B e a c o n s s
Llangynidr
Llangynidr
Crickhowell Whisky in the Brecon Beacons.
Crickhowell
Llanddewi
Llangatt
Llangattockock Llantilio- Llanddewi
Skirrid
Llantilio-
Llanvetherine
Newcastle
Aber- Aber- pertholey Skirrid Llanvetherine Newcastle Below Pastel-painted B&Bs lining the
pertholey
Cynafon Llantilio- streets in the heart of Brecon, see p133 Major festivals: Hereford: Art Week
Cynafon
Llantilio-
Mynydd
Mynydd Mynydd Llanelly ABERGAVENNY Crossenny (open studios, exhibitions – www.
ABERGAVENNY
Llanelly
Crossenny
Mynydd
Llangattwg
Llangynidr Llangattwg brightstripe.co.uk), Sep; Hay-on-Wye:
Llangynidr
Llanvapley
Llanf
Llanfoistoist Llanvapley
Brynmawr
Brynmawr Blackrockock Hay Festival, (everything about books –
Blackr
MONMOUTHSHIRE
www.hayfestival.com), a week from end
Nantyglo
Dukestown
Dukestown Nantyglo MONMOUTHSHIRE of May to the start of Jun; Brecon: Jazz
Tregare
Tregare
Llanvihangel Festival (www.breconjazz.org), Aug;
Llanvihangel
Ebbw BLAENAVON nigh Usk
Ebbw
BLAENAVON
nigh Usk
Vale Vale Green Man Festival (music festival –
www.greenman.net), end Aug;
Goetre Betts Betts
Goetre
Newydd Abergavenny: Food Festival (www.
Newydd
Penperlleni
Abertillery Penperlleni abergavennyfoodfestival.com), mid-Sep.
Abertillery
Monkswood
Monkswood
Abersychan
Abersychan
Little Little DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Abergeey MillMill
Abergeey
Llanhilleth Pontypool
Pontypool
Ebbw
Ebbw
Llanhilleth
Church buffs can start at Hereford
Griffithstown cathedral before heading to the fine
Griffithstown
Crumlin
Crumlin
church at Kilpeck. Visit the abbey at
Dore and drive through the Vale of
Ewyas, past the priory and a church
with a leaning tower. Last stop is the
book capital at Hay-on-Wye. Families
might prefer a visit to the iron works
and a trip down the mine at Blaenavon,
then the castle and manor house at
Tretower, and waterside activities
at Llangorse. For full details, see p135.
130-131_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 131 20/07/18 7:47 PM

132 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


1 Hereford impressive height. The abbey was
Herefordshire; HR4 9BW dissolved in 1537 and reconsecrated
With its gentle hills and gardens, it is in 1634 as an Anglican church. There
easy to forget that in the Middle Ages are fine examples of 13th-century roof
Hereford saw fierce border skirmishes bosses, a number of interesting wall
between the Welsh and English, even paintings and a wooden musicians’
after the Saxon King Offa of Mercia gallery, which dates from the 1700s.
(AD 757–96) invaded Wales and built Take a relaxing river walk in the
his dyke. For earlier civilizations, visit Abbey Dore Court Gardens (open Apr–
Hereford Museum and Art Gallery Sep: Thu–Sun), just north of the church
(open Wed–Sat) on Broad Street and and signposted off the B4347.
see a Roman mosaic and coins, keys ª Take B4347 to A465 and turn right.
and bronzes found locally. Turn right to Llanfihangel Crucorney. Just
High above the River Wye, Hereford before the Skirrid Inn, Wales’s oldest pub,
Cathedral has Saxon origins and fine turn right to the priory and follow signs
Above Dore Abbey, founded by French Norman pillars, dog-tooth arches and to Cymyoy. Turn left at T-junction by
Cistercian monks in 1147 an ancient library. See, too, one of Coach House and right at end of road.
Britain’s finest treasures, the Mappa
VISITING HEREFORD Mundi, a map of the known world, 4 Vale of Ewyas
drawn on deer vellum in 1290. Llanthony, Monmouthshire; NP7 7NN
Parking Among the modern artworks are This is a beautiful glaciated valley,
One-hour parking at King Street and Simon Beer’s silver corona, above with woodlands and fertile farmland,
three-hour disabled-only parking at
Broad Street. the altar, and John Piper’s tapestries. offering good horse riding. Cwmyoy
Hereford is a big cider producer, Church sits on a geologically recent
Tourist Information so follow signs to the Cider Museum landslip which some say coincided
Butter Market, HR1 2AA; 01432 370
514; www.visitherefordshire.co.uk (open Mon–Sat) to learn the secrets with Christ’s crucifixion. The ground is
and history of cider production. still settling, and the church’s tower is
WHERE TO STAY ª Cross the river and take A465 until said to lean even more than the one
HEREFORD a sign to the left for Kilpeck; follow at Pisa. There is also a stone cross here
Somerville House moderate signs and park outside the church. similar to an Irish high cross. Return
This friendly boutique B&B is located in to the valley road and turn right to
a Victorian villa a short walk from the 2 Kilpeck Llanthony Priory by the River Honddu.
station. Serves healthy breakfasts. Herefordshire; HR2 9DN Legend has it that St Peter and St Paul
12 Bodenham Road, HR1 2TS; 01432 The crowning glory of this pretty visited here and that St David, the
273 991; www.somervillehouse.co.uk village is the Church of St Mary and patron saint of Wales, lived here as a
HAY-ON-WYE St David, perhaps the best 12th-century hermit. In the 12th century, the knight
The Swan at Hay moderate Norman Romanesque church in William de Lacy was so impressed with
This former coaching inn dates back to Britain. Look for exquisite Celtic and its spirituality that he founded a church
Georgian times and has 19 comfortable Norse-style carving dating from 1140 on the spot – later the site of Wales’s
rooms and pretty gardens. and the whimsical carved corbels of
Church Street, HR3 5DQ; 01497 821
188; www.swanathay.co.uk animals, wrestlers and dancers below Below Finely sculpted doorway at the Church of
the roofline. An audio tour guide is St Mary and St David, Kilpeck
AROUND HAY-ON-WYE available online (www.kilpeckchurch.
The Agents’ House moderate org.uk). To see the remains of the
Two suites, with a choice of self-cook motte and bailey castle and for good
or pre-ordered breakfast, are available
at this B&B. views, walk up behind the churchyard
Whitney Village Road, Whitney-on- and left over a stile up the hill.
Wye, HR3 6EH; 01497 831 313; www. ª Drop in at the nearby Kilpeck Inn for
whitneyonwyebandb.co.uk a snack before returning to A465. Then
AROUND BRECON take the next right and follow signs to
Felin Fach Griffin moderate Abbey Dore. Park on road by the abbey.
At this lovely terracotta-painted pub off
the A470 northeast of Brecon, boutique
rooms are stylish and comfortable. 3 Abbey Dore
Felin Fach, LD3 0UB; 01874 620 111;
www.eatdrinksleep.ltd.uk Herefordshire; HR2 0AA
Nestling in the fertile “Golden Valley”,
Felin Glais moderate this village is home to the remains of
A restored 17th-century barn offering
rustic chic and weekend evening meals. the Cistercian Dore Abbey, founded in
Aberyscir, LD3 9NP; 01874 623 107; 1147 from wool trade profits. Only the
www.felinglais.co.uk eastern end still stands, but it is an
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


132-135_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 132 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 12: Borderlands to Beacons 133















Above left Pastoral landscape in the fertile
first Augustinian priory. Carry on north Ynys Bwlc. This was built around Vale of Ewyas Above right Hereford Cathedral,
over the Black Mountains to Gospel AD 900 by piling stones and earth home to much ancient and modern art
Pass at 542 m (1,778 ft) with dramatic onto brushwood and reeds, and held
views over the Wye Valley. a royal hall and church and was EAT AND DRINK
ª Keep going north from Gospel Pass linked to the shore by a causeway.
to Hay-on-Wye and park in the large car At the Llangorse Crannog Centre HEREFORD
park at the back of the castle on B4348. visitors can learn more about the Café @ All Saints inexpensive
lake. Enjoy lakeside walks to Llangorse This café in a church offers daily
5 Hay-on-Wye village – a centre for pony trekking, specials such as Herefordshire venison
and mushroom casserole.
Powys; HR3 5DB and a starting point for trails in the High Street, HR4 9AA; 01497 370415;
Hay is a characterful Welsh market Brecon Beacons National Park. www.cafeatallsaints.co.uk
town with winding streets, built ª From the lake road, turn left back HAY-ON-WYE
on a hillside beneath the ruins of a into Llangorse and follow the signs to
Norman castle. It is considered by Brecon on the A40 and B4601. Kilvert’s Inn moderate
This very popular pub serves good
some the second-hand book capital bar food, with a mix of traditional
of the world. The largest bookshop 7 Brecon and Mediterranean flavours.
is Richard Booth, named after the Powys; LD3 9DP The Bull Ring, HR3 5AG; 01497 821 042;
original owner, who started to An old market town at the confluence www.kilverts.co.uk
promote Hay as a book centre in of the Honddu and Usk Rivers in the Old Black Lion moderate
1961. The Hay Festival of Literature Brecon Beacons National Park, Brecon A historic inn with a reputation for fine
(www.hayfestival.com) is held at the contains a mix of medieval, Tudor, food, it serves traditional Welsh and
Wye Valley produce such as treacle
end of May and attracts high-profile Jacobean and Georgian architecture cured salmon and organic beef.
poets, writers and politicians. around its central square, The Bulwark, Lion Street, HR3 5AD; 01497 820 841;
Take the B4351 from Broad Street to and 16th-century Church of St Mary’s. www.oldblacklion.co.uk
Clyro, a pretty village on the outskirts Theatr Brycheiniog (01874 611 622; Other options
of town that was once home to the www.brycheiniog.co.uk) offers a rolling For delicious low-fat sheep’s milk ice
Reverend Francis Kilvert, a great programme of drama and comedy. cream, try Shepherds inexpensive
Victorian diarist, who depicted the Visit also the South Wales Borderers (9 High Town, HR3 5AE; 01497 821 898;
www.shepherdsicecream.co.uk). For
rural life of his parish during the 1870s. Museum (www.royalwelsh.org.uk) on wholesome food, with good vegetarian
ª Leave Hay on B4350 (signed Brecon) the Watton (B4601), covering Welsh options, try the Granary inexpensive
and join the A438, then the A479 through regimental history including the (Broad Street, HR3 5DB; 01497 820 790).
Talgarth. Turn right onto the B4560, then defence of Rorke’s Drift (1879), where
right in Llangorse to the lake car park. 139 soldiers faced 5,000 Zulu warriors. Below The popular Kilvert's Inn, on the Bull
Founded as a Benedictine priory in Ring in Hay-on-Wye
6 Llangorse Lake 1093, Brecon Cathedral has some of
Brecon, Powys; LD3 7TR the best monastic buildings in Wales,
The largest natural lake in South Wales, mostly built in the 13th and 14th
Llangorse Lake was created during centuries. The decorated Norman font
the last Ice Age. In the summer, it is a with its birds, grotesques and beasts is
popular watersports centre with boats the oldest object. The Havard Chapel
for hire from the Lakeside Caravan & has many millitary memorials and the
Camping Park (www.llangorselake.co.uk). regimental colours from Rorke’s Drift.
The lake is also good for fishing and There’s also a Heritage Centre and café.
its reedy shallows attract waterfowl ª Leave on the B4601, then take the
which can be viewed from lakeside A470 towards Cardiff. At Libanus turn
hides. At the north edge of the lake is right to the Brecon Beacons National
the tiny man-made islet, or crannog, Park Visitor Centre (signposted).
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


132-135_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 133 20/07/18 7:25 PM

134 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

8 Brecon Beacons National Park
Powys; LD3 8ER
This walk is a figure of eight across a plateau in the shadow of the
Brecon Beacons. While enjoying the scenery and waymarked trails,
listen out for birdsong, especially the skylarks in summer.
A two-hour walking tour hill and down to the farm road again.
From the far end of the car park next to Look for “pillow mounds” – banks of
the Visitor Centre 1 carry straight on earth created in the 18th century for
to the grassy track. A signpost shows rabbits to breed and feed the growing
the way (do not veer left up the slope). populations of the industrial towns to
Above View looking into the hills of the Look out for gorse clumps with yellow the south. Cross over the road and head
Brecon Beacons National Park Below Sheep flowers – these are popular with uphill, veering right towards the fence
grazing on the verdant upper slopes of the song-birds such as stonechats, where there is a clear pathway follow-
Brecon Beacons meadow pipits and chaffinches. The ing a Roman road – Sarn Helen 3.
path then leads up a gentle incline This was the old route linking the
with the Brecon Beacons landscape on Roman forts between Y Gaer and
the right. Follow the broad grassy path Coelbren, and is still traceable further
straight ahead, past the pond on the along the common. Follow the path
right and across a road, past a beside the fence until the
sign pointing back to the fence turns abruptly right.
Visitor Centre. After a while Leave the fence and walk
the path dips down to a farm straight ahead, across gently
road and then up again to the sloping common land on
peak ahead. Cross the road the path downhill to a road.
VISITING BRECON BEACONS
NATIONAL PARK and the boggy watercourse Cross the road keeping
and head up the path to the an area of flat land with
National Park Visitor Centre trig point on top of Twyn y a pond 4 on the left and
Libanus, Brecon, LD3 8ER; 01874 623 Gaer 2, the site of an Iron Sign from Blaenavon follow the path back down
366; www.breconbeacons.org Age hillfort, at a height of World Heritage Site to the Visitor Centre, enjoying
367 m (1,204 ft). From here dramatic vistas on the way.
WHERE TO STAY there are great views around, and ª Return to Brecon and take the A40
all the way own to Brecon. To return, east. Go left after the Kestrel pub and
AROUND TRETOWER COURT
AND CASTLE take the worn pathway to the right of left at the end of the road, and park
the pillar and follow it back round the
outside the gates of Tretower.
Ty Croeso moderate
Beautifully restored Victorian building
with four attractive en-suite rooms,
near Crickhowell off A40 towards
Abergavenny. The breakfasts offered
here are great and the atmosphere Twyn y Gaer
is relaxed. Enjoy the views across
Pillow
Usk valley. Mounds
The Dardy, Crickhowell, NP8 1PU; 01873
740 173; www.ty-croeso.co.uk

Sarn Helen





Pond

0 metres 500
Visitor Centre
0 yards 500

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


132-135_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 134 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 12: Borderlands to Beacons 135


9 Tretower Court and Castle A 19th-century hunting lodge, on the
Crickhowell, Powys; NP8 1RF site of the keep, houses Abergavenny
These two sets of buildings clearly Museum (open daily; closed Oct–May
illustrate the transition from castles Wed), with displays of local social
to houses in the borders, indicating history. However, the star attraction is
the advent of a more peaceful time. St Mary’s Priory Church. Founded in
Built by the Welsh nobleman Picard, 1087 as a Benedictine priory, it is one
c.1100, during the Norman advance of the finest churches in Wales. It has a
into Wales, this is one of the motte and huge 15th-century carved oak “Jesse”
bailey castles. In the 14th century, the sculpture – tracing Jesus’ lineage back
house became the main dwelling to Jesse – which is unique in size and
place. It is a rare intact example of a craftmanship. Also admire the fine
medieval manor house with a walled English School Renaissance alabaster
front and courtyard. Partly rebuilt in the tombs in the Herbert Chapel and the
15th century by Sir Roger Vaughan, it adjacent 14th-century Tithe Barn,
has great timber work and a garden. housing tapestry and exhibitions.
ª Continue along the road to return ª Return to A40 east, taking A4143, Above The ruined Norman tower of Tretower
to the A40 and carry on eastwards to then B4246 to Blaenavon. Park on site. Castle, near Crickhowell
Abergavenny. Park in the town centre.
q Blaenavon VISITING BLAENAVON
0 Abergavenny Gwent; NP4 9RN
Monmouthshire; NP7 5ND Set on a mountainside in a bleak and Blaenavon World Heritage Centre
Set in the Usk Valley with easy access awe-inspiring landscape, Blaenavon Church Road, NP4 9AE; 01495 742 333;
to the Brecon Beacons, Abergavenny rose to prominence at the start of www.visitblaenavon.co.uk
is superbly located. At its heart is the Industrial Revolution and is now
Abergavenny Castle, a classic motte a UNESCO World Heritage site. One EAT AND DRINK
and bailey structure from the 11th of several heritage attractions here, AROUND TRETOWER COURT
century. It saw three centuries of fierce Blaenavon Ironworks (Apr–Oct: open AND CASTLE
border fighting and was the scene daily; Nov–Mar: open Thu–Sun) was the The Bear Hotel moderate
of the infamous massacre of Welsh most advanced ironworks in the This atmospheric pub in Crickhowell, on
chieftains by the Normans in 1175. world when it was built in 1787. The the A40 outside Tretower, serves tradi-
vast infastructure includes mines, tional food such as Welsh beef burgers.
Below St Mary’s Priory Church, Abergavenny, water towers, steam-powered blast High Street, Crickhowell, NP8 1BW;
founded in the 11th century furnaces, casting houses and workers’ 01873 810 408; www.bearhotel.co.uk
cottages. The works fell into Nantyffin Cider Mill moderate
decline with the advent of This lovely old drovers’ inn, on the
large-scale steel making. A479 from Tretower to Crickhowell,
offers a high standard of cuisine using
The Big Pit: National Coal produce from local farms and estates.
Museum (open daily) is Brecon Road, NP8 1SG; 01873 810 775;
where the coal that fired www.cidermill.co.uk
the furnaces came from. In AROUND ABERGAVENNY
this fascinating industrial The Walnut Tree moderate–expensive
museum, ex-miners escort This well-known restaurant, just off the
groups around the mines, B4521 northeast of Abergavenny, is part-
90 m (300 ft) underground, operated by top chef Shaun Hill. The
and reveal the harsh lives food is well-flavoured modern British
of the men, women and and the set lunch is excellent value.
Llanddewi Skirrid, NP7 8AW; 01873
children who worked in dark 852 797; www.thewalnuttreeinn.com;
and damp conditions. closed Sun & Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS 4, stopping off at the church and before heading to Tretower Court
Hereford and Abergavenny make priory. Drive over Gospel Pass for a and Castle 9, and on to Llangorse
excellent bases for these trips. stroll around Hay-on-Wye 5. Lake 6 for a walk and some fishing
Follow the driving instructions, but or bird-watching. If there’s still time,
Churches, History and Books take a look around pretty Brecon 7.
Start in Hereford 1, with its grand return to Hereford on the B4352.
cathedral, and head to Kilpeck 2 for Family Activity Day Follow the driving instructions from
its church, then on to Abbey Dore Spend the morning touring the Abergavenny to Blaenavon and then
3 and the spectacular Vale of Ewyas industrial sites at Blaenavon q, follow the A40.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


132-135_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 135 20/07/18 7:25 PM

136-137_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 136 30/03/2017 14:16
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 13 Liverpool ENGLAND London Plymouth Liverpool ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Manchester Liverpool Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff Bristol Bristol Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol
Bristol London Cardiff London Cardiff London London
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Wonders of
West Wales
Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Llandovery Inverness Inverness
Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES WALES Birmingham to Newport
ENGLAND
Cardiff Cardiff Bristol Cardiff Bristol Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Bristol London London London
Newcastle Newcastle
Highlights ENGLAND ENGLAND
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Carlisle
• Glorious Welsh gardens
Visit two striking, individual gardens:
colourful and sculptural planting
at Aberglasney and the exotic and
futuristic National Botanic Garden
• Majestic Welsh castles
Admire the crumbling bastions of
Norman might from Carreg Cennen
Inverness Inverness to Kidwelly and Carew, reminders of a Inverness Inverness
Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND turbulent Welsh history SCOTLAND SCOTLAND
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh • Stunning Pembrokeshire coast Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Walk along the rugged, splintered cliffs
Newcastle Newcastle to rocky coves and wide sandy bays Newcastle Newcastle
Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND washed by the powerful Atlantic ENGLAND ENGLAND
ENGLAND
• One of Britain’s oldest cathedrals
For over 1,400 years there has been
Christian worship at St Davids
Cathedral, an astonishing work of
religious art
Tenby Harbour overlooked by Prince Albert’s
monument on Tower Hill
136-137_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 137 30/03/2017 14:16

138 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Wonders of West Wales

The drive heads west from Llandovery through some glorious Welsh
gardens – The National Botanic Garden and nearby Aberglasney – to
the home of Dylan Thomas, one of the great poets of the 20th century, in the
sleepy coastal town of Laugharne. The route is studded with solid Norman
castles, built to control the land the French invaders had just conquered. Take
some time out in the bustling resort of Tenby before visiting Britain’s smallest
city, St Davids, with its ancient cathedral. Walk the stunning wild clifftops, rich
in religious myths in Britain’s only National Coastal Park, and visit the seabirds
on Ramsey Island. See the Neolithic burial monument of Pentre
Monington
Ifan and walk the Preseli Hills, source Monington
Rosslare
of the mysterious bluestones Rosslare NEWPORT Nevern Cilyewm
Cilyewm
NEWPORT
Nevern
Llanfair
Strumble
Goodwick
at Stonehenge (see p68). Strumble Goodwick Dinas Dinas Eglwyswrw Llanfair Porth-y-rhydhyd
Eglwyswrw
Porth-y-r
Nant-gwyn
Head Head
Nant-gwyn
FISHGUARD
Manorowen FISHGUARD Cilgwyn Pentre Pentre
Manorowen
Cilgwyn
Blaenffos
Ifan Ifan Blaenffos Llansawel LLANDOVERY
Llansawel
LLANDOVERY
Abergorlech
Abercastle Llanychaer Pontfaen Brynberian Abergorlech
Abercastle
Brynberian
Llanychaer
Pontfaen
Crymmych
Ma
Porthgain Mathrythry M y n y d d P r e s c e l l y l y Crymmych Pen-y-garn Llansadwrn
Porthgain
M y n y d d P r e s c e l
Pen-y-garn
Llansadwrn
Abereiddy Letterston Llanwrda
Abereiddy
Llanwrda
Letterston
Llanfyrnach
Brechfa
Cwndu
Pincheston
Llanpumsaint
Croes-goch
Croes-goch Pincheston Maes-yr wyn Llanfyrnach Trelech Llanpumsaint Brechfa Cwndu Myddfai
Maes-yr wyn
Trelech
Myddfai
Conwil-
PEMBROKESHIRE Conwil- Llanfynyddydd
PEMBROKESHIRE
Llanfyn
Blaen-w
Whitesands Middle Blaen-waunaun Elvet Elvet Rhydargaeau Llangadog
Middle
Whitesands
Llangadog
Rhydargaeau
Llangolman
BayBay MillMill Llangolman Tywi Tywi
Caledfwlch
Hayscastle Wallis Wallis Llanglydwen CARMAR THENSHIRE Caledfwlch
Llanglydwen
CARMAR THENSHIRE
Hayscastle
Bethlehem
ST DAVIDS Brawdy Cross Cross Llanycefn Llanboidy Gellywen Bethlehem Twyn Twyn
ST DAVIDS
Llanycefn
Gellywen
Llanboidy
Brawdy
LLANDEILO
Abernent
Llanan
Llangathen
SOLVA
Llandissilio
Ramsey SOLVA Roch Roch Spittal Llandissilio Abernent Capel Capel Llangathen LLANDEILO Llanan
Spittal
Ramsey
Aberglasney
Clarbeston
Island Island Clarbeston Carmarthen Dewi Dewi Aberglasney Ffairfach
Carmarthen
Ffairfach
Road Road Cwmfelin Gardens
Gardens
Cwmfelin
Egremont
Meidrim
Keeston Egremont Meidrim
Keeston
CARREG
NATIONAL
Simpson Cross
Simpson Cross Wiston Afon Taf Boeth Boeth NATIONAL Llanarthney CARREG
Llanarthney
Wiston
CENNEN CASTLE
BOTANIC
BOTANIC
St Br ides Llawhaden St Clears Llanllwch GARDEN OF Trapp Trapp CENNEN CASTLE
Afon Taf
Llawhaden
St Br ides
Llanllwch
St Clears
GARDEN OF
Haverfordwest
Car
Carmelmel
Cwmffrwd
B ay ay Portfield Gate Haverfordwest Narberth Whitland Ebenezer Cwmffrwd WALES Porthyrhydhyd Llandybie
B
Portfield Gate
Whitland
WALES
Ebenezer
Narberth
Llandybie
Porthyr
Uzmaston
Little Havenven Uzmaston RedRed Crwbin Gorslas
Little Ha
Crwbin
LAUGHARNE
Templeton
Skomer
Llandefeilog
Skomer St Bride’s Templeton Roses Roses LAUGHARNE Llandefeilog Gorslas Ammanfordord
Ammanf
St Bride’s
Crunwear
Island
Island Hasguard Johnston Hook Hook Ludchurch Crunwear Meinciau Pontyberem
Johnston
Ludchurch
Hasguard
Pontyberem
Meinciau
Llansteffan
Yerbeston
Marloesloes Rosemarket Yerbeston East East Llansteffan Llannon
Mar
Rosemarket
Llannon
Milford
Pont Y
Mar
KIDWELLY
St Ishmael’s
Houghton CAREW
St Ishmael’s Milford Houghton CAREW Kilgetty Marsh sh Llansaint KIDWELLY Pont Yatesates
Llansaint
Kilgetty
Haven PENDINE CASTLE
Haven
PENDINE
CASTLE
Skokholm
Skokholm Dale Dale Neyland CASTLE Saundersfoot CASTLE
Neyland
Cosheston
Island Island Cosheston Sageston Saundersfoot Trimsaran
Trimsaran
Sageston
Car mar then
St Ann’s Car mar then
St Ann’s
Pembroke D
Head Head Angle Angle Pembroke Dockock
B
Pembrokeoke Gumfreston B ay ay Pembrey
Pembr
Gumfreston
Pembrey
TENBY
Lamphey
Rosslare
Rosslare Lamphey TENBY
Penally
St Petrox
Castlemartin St Petrox Lydstep Penally
Castlemartin
Lydstep
Cheritoniton
Cher
Linney
Caldey Island
Linney Caldey Island
Head Head
Bosherston
Bosherston
ST GOVAN’S CHAPEL
ST GOVAN’S CHAPEL
St Govan’s Head
St Govan’s Head
ACTIVITIES
Below Dylan Thomas’ Boathouse, overlooking
Cycle or walk around the Brecon Beacons from Llandovery
Carmarthen Bay, Laugharne, see p141
Climb up to the fabulous beauty spot of Carreg Cennen Castle
Take a boat to Ramsey or Caldey Islands to see the seabirds
Picnic in the grounds of Carew Castle and walk to the mill
Count the steps down and up to St Govan’s Chapel – it is
said the number is never the same
Listen to the sublime evensong at St Davids Cathedral
Surf the Atlantic rollers at Whitesands Bay, St Davids
Hike in the splendid Preseli Hills from Newport
138-139_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 138 20/07/18 7:44 PM

DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales 139


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Llandovery to Newport.
Number of days: 4, allowing half a
day at St Davids.
Distances: Around 270 km (168 miles).
Road conditions: Well-paved and
signposted. In remote areas the
country roads can be very narrow.
When to go: Spring is very pretty,
Monington
Monington with wild flowers, and summer is best
Above The mazy clifftop path of the Pembrokeshire Coast for outdoor activities. Many attractions
Rosslare
Rosslare
Cilyewm
NEWPORT
NEWPORT Nevern National Trail, close to St Davids, see pp144–5 Cilyewm and venues close during the winter.
Nevern
Strumble Goodwick Dinas Dinas Eglwyswrw Llanfair
Strumble
Llanfair
Goodwick
Porth-y-r
Head Head Eglwyswrw Nant-gwyn Porth-y-rhydhyd Opening times: Attractions and
Nant-gwyn
FISHGUARD
Manorowen FISHGUARD Cilgwyn Pentre Pentre
Manorowen
Cilgwyn
Blaenffos
Ifan Ifan Blaenffos Llansawel LLANDOVERY museums are generally open 10am–
LLANDOVERY
Llansawel
Abercastle Llanychaer Pontfaen Brynberian Abergorlech 5pm, but close earlier (or are closed
Abergorlech
Abercastle
Llanychaer
Brynberian
Pontfaen
Crymmych
Ma
Porthgain
Porthgain Mathrythry M y n y d d P r e s c e l l y l y Crymmych Pen-y-garn Llansadwrn altogether) Nov–Easter. Shops are often
M y n y d d P r e s c e l
Pen-y-garn
Llansadwrn
Abereiddy Letterston Llanwrda open longer. Churches are usually open
Abereiddy
Letterston
Llanwrda
Llanfyrnach
Brechfa
Pincheston
Cwndu
Llanpumsaint
Croes-goch Pincheston Maes-yr wyn Llanfyrnach Trelech Llanpumsaint Brechfa Cwndu Myddfai until dusk. Some B&Bs close in winter.
Croes-goch
Maes-yr wyn
Trelech
Myddfai
Conwil-
PEMBROKESHIRE
PEMBROKESHIRE Conwil- Llanfynyddydd
Llanfyn
Blaen-w
Whitesands
Middle
Whitesands Middle Blaen-waunaun Elvet Elvet Rhydargaeau Llangadog Main market days: Llandeilo: Country
Llangadog
Rhydargaeau
Llangolman
BayBay MillMill Llangolman Tywi Tywi
Caledfwlch
Hayscastle Wallis Wallis Llanglydwen CARMAR THENSHIRE Caledfwlch Market, Civic Hall, Fri am; Tenby:
CARMAR THENSHIRE
Llanglydwen
Hayscastle
Bethlehem
ST DAVIDS
ST DAVIDS Brawdy Cross Cross Llanycefn Llanboidy Gellywen Bethlehem Twyn Twyn Country Market, St John’s Hall, Fri am;
Gellywen
Llanycefn
Llanboidy
Brawdy
LLANDEILO
Abernent
Llanan
SOLVA
Llangathen
Llandissilio
Ramsey SOLVA Roch Roch Spittal Llandissilio Abernent Capel Capel Llangathen LLANDEILO Llanan St Davids: Country Market, Cross Square,
Spittal
Ramsey
Clarbeston
Aberglasney
Island Island Clarbeston Carmarthen Dewi Dewi Aberglasney Ffairfach
Carmarthen
Ffairfach
Gardens
Road Road Cwmfelin Gardens Thu am; Fishguard: Country Market,
Cwmfelin
Egremont
Meidrim
Keeston Egremont Meidrim
Keeston
CARREG
NATIONAL
Simpson Cross
Simpson Cross Wiston Afon Taf Boeth Boeth NATIONAL Llanarthney CARREG Market Hall (within Town Hall), Thu am;
Llanarthney
Wiston
CENNEN CASTLE
BOTANIC
BOTANIC
St Br ides Llawhaden St Clears Llanllwch GARDEN OF Trapp Trapp CENNEN CASTLE Farmers’ Market, Sat, Market Hall.
St Br ides
Afon Taf
Llawhaden
Llanllwch
St Clears
GARDEN OF
Haverfordwest
Carmelmel
Car
Cwmffrwd
Whitland
Portfield Gate
B ay ay Portfield Gate Haverfordwest Narberth Whitland Ebenezer Cwmffrwd WALES Porthyrhydhyd Llandybie
B
Ebenezer
WALES
Narberth
Llandybie
Porthyr
Uzmaston
Little Ha
Little Havenven Uzmaston RedRed Crwbin Gorslas Shopping: Buy local arts and crafts
Crwbin
from Goat Street Gallery in St Davids,
Templeton
LAUGHARNE
Skomer St Bride’s Templeton Roses Roses LAUGHARNE Llandefeilog Gorslas Ammanfordord and jams and chutneys from Miranda’s
Skomer
Llandefeilog
Ammanf
St Bride’s
Crunwear
Island Hasguard Johnston Hook Hook Ludchurch Crunwear Meinciau Pontyberem
Island
Johnston
Hasguard
Ludchurch
Pontyberem
Meinciau
Llansteffan
Yerbeston
Marloesloes Rosemarket Yerbeston East East Llansteffan Llannon Preserves at village stores in Llandovery
Mar
Rosemarket
and many local delis.
Llannon
Pont Y
Milford
Mar
KIDWELLY
St Ishmael’s Milford Houghton CAREW Kilgetty Marsh sh Llansaint KIDWELLY Pont Yatesates 0 kilometres 5
St Ishmael’s
Houghton CAREW
Llansaint
Kilgetty
Haven
Haven PENDINE CASTLE
PENDINE
CASTLE
Skokholm Dale Dale Neyland CASTLE Saundersfoot CASTLE Major festivals: St Davids: Cathedral
Skokholm
Neyland
Cosheston
Island Island Cosheston Sageston Saundersfoot Trimsaran 0 miles 5 Festival, classical music, last week in
Trimsaran
Sageston
Car mar then
St Ann’s
St Ann’s Car mar then
Pembroke D
Head Head Angle Angle Pembroke Dockock May; Fishguard: Folk Festival, 4 days
B
Pembrokeoke Gumfreston B ay ay Pembrey KEY at end of May; Fishguard International
Pembr
Gumfreston
Pembrey
TENBY
Lamphey
Rosslare
Rosslare Lamphey TENBY Drive route Music Festival, 10 days late Jul;
Penally
St Petrox
Castlemartin
Castlemartin St Petrox Lydstep Penally Pembrokeshire: Aberjazz Jazz ’n’ Blues
Lydstep
Cheritoniton
Cher
Linney Caldey Island Festival, 5 days at end of Aug.
Caldey Island
Linney
Head Head Below Pendine Sands with the tide out, once a favourite
Bosherston
Bosherston
ST GOVAN’S CHAPEL
ST GOVAN’S CHAPEL location for land-speed record attempts, see p142
St Govan’s Head
St Govan’s Head DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Castle and garden lovers can stay at
Llandovery to visit the castle and the
gardens at Aberglasney, and climb up to
Carreg Cennen castle before admiring
the Great Glasshouse at the National
Botanic Garden. Families will enjoy the
beach at Tenby, Carmarthen Bay, a visit to
the museum at Pendine, and the castle
and Dylan Thomas’ house at Laugharne;
finish off with the castles at Kidwelly
and Carew. For more coastal fun, stay at
Newport, see Fishguard harbour, then
on to St Davids for the cathedral, walk,
and time at the beach. Enjoy a fish
supper in Solva. For full details, see p145.
138-139_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 139 20/07/18 7:44 PM

140 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


and the earliest known example of
Welsh script. Head west on the A40
turning off left to Llangathen and
Aberglasney Gardens (open daily;
www.aberglasney.org), a rare restored
cloister garden dating back to the
15th century. It is a planter’s paradise,
with vast swathes of delphiniums
and a yew tunnel. The mansion house
has a splendid early Victorian Ionic
Above Aberglasney House set in the famous portico, a shop and a café. Enjoy the
gardens, near Llandeilo 1 Llandovery colourful profusion of butterflies
Carmarthenshire; SA20 0AP attracted by the flowers in summer.
VISITING LLANDOVERY This is a Welsh market town with neat ª From Llandeilo take A483 south to
cottages and Georgian buildings. The Ffairfach, take a left at roundabout,
Parking
Cheap parking by the castle and TIC. ruined Norman castle by the river was right after a railway bridge, following
built in 1110 and sacked by the Welsh signs to Trapp, then castle and car park.
Tourist Information
Kings Road, SA20 0AW; 01550 720 693; ruler Owain Glyndŵr in 1403. Drive
open Apr–Oct south on Bridge Street out of town 3 Carreg Cennen Castle
over the river and then fork right to the Carmarthenshire; SA19 6UA
WHERE TO STAY village of Myddfai. A family of doctors, Just east of Trapp, on the western
the “Physicians of Myddfai”, lived here edge of the Brecon Beacons National
LLANDOVERY from the 12th to the 18th centuries, Park, Carreg Cennen Castle (open
Kings Head Inn moderate and were renowned for their herbal daily) is a dramatic ruined fortification,
Lashings of history are on offer at this
16th-century inn with nine rooms. remedies. Walkers can use Llandovery set high on a stunning 99-m (325-ft)
There’s a cosy bar and restaurant with as a base for hikes around the northern limestone bluff. There is evidence of
traditional home-cooked Welsh food. edge of the Brecon Beacons National prehistoric and Roman activity, but it
1 Market Square, SA20 0AB; 01550 720 park (www.breconbeacons.org). Or was the 11th-century Welsh princes
393; www.kingsheadllandovery.co.uk hire mountain bikes from Goshawk who first built on the site. Today’s
LLANDEILO (01550 720 233) by the day or half day. remains are those of the magnificent
The Cawdor moderate Maps and leaflets are available at the 13th-century Norman edifice. Walk up
This relaxed boutique hotel mixes the tourist information centre (TIC). the hill to the castle from the car park.
contemporary with the antique and ª From Llandovery re-cross the bridge ª Go back to Ffairfach and straight
serves good food. and take the A40 west to Llandeilo. on to A476. Turn right on A48, then
Rhosmaen Street, SA19 6EN; 01558
823 500; www.thecawdor.com turn right on B4310 to the Botanic
2 Llandeilo Garden (signed).
LAUGHARNE Carmarthenshire; SA19 6BH
The Boat House B&B moderate This elegant town is perched on a 4 National Botanic Garden
This B&B has four airy, contemporary bluff overlooking the Tywi, the longest of Wales
rooms. It’s just a short walk from here
to Dylan Thomas’s famous Boathouse. river to flow entirely within Wales. At Carmarthenshire; SA32 8HG
1 Gosport Street, SA33 4SY; 01994 427 its centre is 13th-century St Teilo’s Occupying the site of a Regency
263; www.theboathouselaugharne.co.uk Church, rebuilt in the 19th century by country estate that was once owned
renowned Victorian revivalist architect by Sir William Paxton, Master of the
Below left Ruins of the Norman castle in George Gilbert Scott. The church has Calcutta Mint, the National Botanic
Llandovery Below right Yellow daisy-like an exhibition on the St Teilo Gospels, Garden of Wales (open daily; www.
flowers at Aberglasney Gardens a local 8th-century illuminated book, botanicgarden.wales) is the largest



















140-145_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 140 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales 141

EAT AND DRINK
garden in Wales. Its centrepiece is 6 Laugharne
the Great Glasshouse, designed by Carmarthenshire; SA33 4SD AROUND LLANDOVERY
Lord Norman Foster. It is the largest This is a very picturesque coastal The Neuadd Arms moderate
single-span glasshouse in the world town with lovely cottages and North of Llandovery, this pub makes
and houses a number of rare and Georgian houses set on the expansive full use of local produce. Try Welsh cawl
endangered plants. The garden has an Taf Estuary. The town and coastline is (lamb and leek soup) or the Welsh black
beef and a traditional Sunday roast.
unrivalled collection of Mediterranean dominated by the ruins of Laugharne Cilycwm, SA20 0ST; 01550 721 644;
flora, as well as a unique double- Castle. It was built by the Norman www.neuaddarms.com
walled garden, an award-winning de Brian family in the 13th and 14th LLANDEILO
Japanese garden and a bee garden. centuries and was later turned into The Angel Hotel moderate
There are also woodland and lakeside a grand Tudor Mansion in the 16th This established inn has a relaxed bar
walks. The garden is wheelchair- century by Sir John Perrot. During – choose from the blackboard menu, or
friendly, and mobility aids are available the Elizabethan period, the town was dine in the more formal bistro. There’s
(pre-booking advised; 01558 667 149). bigger than Cardiff and remained an always a vegetarian choice available.
There are also two cafés, a restaurant, English-speaking village within Wales. 60 Rhosmaen, SA19 6EN; 01558 822
765; www.angelbistro.co.uk
a shop and a plant sales area. The narrow fishing lane behind the
ª Head back to the A48 west towards castle leads up to Dylan Thomas’s AROUND THE NATIONAL
Carmarthen and take the A484 south to home, the Boathouse (open daily; 01994 BOTANIC GARDEN OF WALES
Kidwelly (Cydweli). Follow signs to castle. 427 420; www.dylanthomasboathouse. Y Polyn expensive
com), with his modest writing study in On the B4310 south of the A40, Y Polyn
5 Kidwelly Castle the garage. There is a nice café here, offers excellent Welsh produce, such
as organic beef, in traditional dishes
Carmarthenshire; SA17 5BQ so enjoy a cup of tea while gazing out with a modern twist. Everything is
An imposing fortification, built during over pretty Carmarthen Bay. The poet homemade – even the bread.
the 13th–15th centuries on a bluff is buried in a simple grave in the Capel Dewi, Nantgaredig, SA32 7LH;
01267 290 000; www.ypolynrestaurant.
over the River Gwendraeth, Kidwelly churchyard in the north of the town. co.uk
Castle (open daily) was part of the There are several interesting shops
Norman strategy to secure south behind the clocktower, and a jeweller, Below The imposing Carreg Cennen, in a
Wales by controlling the river passes Quicksilver, where you can have a gem- superb setting Bottom left The Great
here and at Laugharne, Llansteffan stone set in a silver ring within an hour. Greenhouse, National Botanic Garden of Wales
and Loughor. The earliest parts of the ª From Laugharne continue on the Bottom right Kidwelly Castle, one of a series
castle consist of the square inner ward A4066 to Pendine. of 13th-century Norman fortifications
with the four round corner towers
and portcullis gates to the north and
south. Further concentric defences
were added in the mid-13th century
by its new owners, the de Chaworth
family. The gatehouse is extremely
well fortified and was designed so
that it could be held independently
if the rest of the castle was captured.
The castle also contains two bake-
houses and the remains of a chapel.
ª Return to Carmarthen, head west
on the A40 and turn left onto the
A4066 south to Laugharne.
Dylan Thomas
Dylan Thomas was one of the
world’s great 20th-century English-
language poets. Born in Swansea, he
wrote over half of his poems there,
including “And Death Shall Have No
Dominion”. He moved west to New
Quay and Laugharne to write his
masterpiece “Under Milk Wood”, a
play about a night and a day in the
imaginary Welsh fishing village of
Llareggub (which means something
entirely different read backwards).
He was a big success in America
but died in New York aged only 39.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


140-145_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 141 20/07/18 7:25 PM

142 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN


8 Tenby
Pembrokeshire; SA70 8EU
This 9th-century walled town marks
the start of the Pembrokeshire Coast
National Park. Sandwiched by two
golden beaches, Tenby is a gem of a
holiday resort. St Mary’s Church has
a superb roof, and alabaster tombs of
Tenby mayors John and Thomas White.
The 15th-century Tudor Merchants
House (Apr–Oct: open Wed–Mon Aug:
daily; Nov–Mar: Sat & Sun) is a living
museum of Tudor family life. No
visit is complete without a walk up
Castle Hill – with its statue of Prince
Albert – for the views and to visit Tenby
Museum and Art Gallery (open daily;
closed Sun & Mon in winter; www.tenby
museum.org.uk), which has local history
exhibitions. On permanent display are
original paintings by siblings Gwen
Above left The smaller of Tenby’s two lovely John (1876–1939) and Augustus John
sandy beaches Above top right Tenby kiosk 7 Pendine (1878–1961), who grew up in Tenby.
offering fishing and sightseeing trips Above Carmarthenshire; SA33 4NY Consider taking a boat trip to Caldey
right Fishing and pleasure boats just outside This coastal town is best known for the Island, run by Cistercian monks (closed
Tenby harbour flat sandy beach that made it ideal for Sun; boats sail Apr–Oct, call 01834 844 453:
land-speed record attempts. Malcolm www.caldeyislandwales.com). There are
VISITING TENBY Campbell in Bluebird in 1924 reached medieval churches, an abbey and quiet
Parking 146 mph (235 km/h) and then raised sandy bays here.
Park in Five Arches, South Cliff Street, it to 174 mph (280 km/h) in 1927. ª Leave on B4318, turn left onto A477
SA70 7AS or Sainsbury’s multi-storey car The Museum of Speed (check www. and then turn right on A4075. Park in
park, Upper Park Road, SA70 7LT carmarthenshire.gov.wales for timings) free car park on the left next to the cross.
Tourist Information traces the history of these records.
Upper Park Road, SA70 7LT; 01437 See Babs, the car buried in the dunes 9 Carew Castle
775 603 after crashing and killing its driver, Pembrokeshire; SA70 8SL
Parry-Thomas, in a record attempt This is another magnificent example
WHERE TO STAY in1927, now dug out and restored. of the transition from Norman castle
AROUND PENDINE Campbell’s grandson set a UK electric to Elizabethan manor house in Wales
Jabajak moderate car land-speed record here in 2000. (see also p135), although the castle is
This small hotel is set within a vineyard ª Head west on B4314 to Red Roses, sadly ruined. Nevertheless, there are
and has an excellent restaurant. To get turn left onto A477 and left onto A478 spectacular views of Carew Castle
here, head north at the Whitland to Tenby. Use the car parks at the end of (open daily; www.carewcastle.com) from
roundabout on the A40.
Banc y Llain, Llanboidy Road, Whitland South Cliff Street or in Upper Park Road. across the millpond and the grounds,
SA34 0ED; 01994 448 786;
www.jabajak.co.uk Below The still impressive 14th-century ruins of Carew Castle
AROUND TENBY
Wychwood House moderate
Large en-suite rooms, a pretty garden
and lovely views are on offer at this
friendly B&B, just outside Tenby, south
off the A4139. Also does evening meals.
Penally, SA70 7PE; 01834 844 387;
www.wychwoodhousebb.co.uk
AROUND CAREW CASTLE
Cresselly House expensive
Enjoy the antique-filled rooms in this
grand 18th-century country house just
off the A4075, north of Carew Castle,
and wander the lovely grounds.
Cresselly, SA68 0SP; 01646 651 992;
www.cresselly.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £80; moderate, £80–£150; expensive, over £150


140-145_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 142 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales 143


where events are regularly held. Take a
gentle stroll to the only restored tidal
mill in Wales, and inspect the large
11th-century Carew Cross nearby,
one of the best examples of its type
in Wales, with fine Celtic knot work.
ª Head back to A477 and turn right,
then fork left on A4075 to Pembroke,
straight over roundabout and left
on B4319 to Bosherston. Drive on
to coast (road passes military firing
range; check 01646 662 367 for
closures). Park at St Govan’s Head.
0 St Govan’s Chapel
Bosherston, Pembrokeshire; SA71 5DP
An ancient Christian cell, St Govan’s
Chapel is set into a steep cliff on the Above The spectacular cliff coastline, home to
southernmost tip of Pembrokeshire. q Solva St Govan’s Chapel
It was probably founded in the 6th Pembrokeshire; SA62 6UU
century by the followers of St Govan; The jewel of the Pembrokeshire Coast EAT AND DRINK
the chapel is at least 11th century. National Park, Solva is the ideal location
St Govan’s identity is unknown, but for walking, sailing or simply relaxing TENBY
most experts favour St Gobham, among the galleries, restaurants and The Bay Tree moderate
Abbot of Dairinis in County shops. Used as a smuggling Set in charming Tudor Square, the Bay
Wexford, who visited and centre and later a busy port, Tree has an excellent menu of hearty
bistro-style food and a cordial ambience.
stayed until his death in Solva has a lovely harbour Tudor Square, SA70 7AJ; 01834 843
AD 586. He is said to have set in a cleft in the coastline. 516; www.baytreetenby.co.uk
lived as a hermit, keeping A walk on the cliffs above The Mooring moderate
a lookout for marauding the inlet is recommended. This is a cosy café by day and bistro by
pirates, the scourge of The summer Solva Regatta night. It serves dishes such as Welsh
the local population, from sees a series of fun events, rarebit burger and rib-eye steak.
Lundy Island. It is said that including a popular raft Upper Frog St, SA70 7JD; 01834 844 068
the number of steps to Design from Solva race.A little way north lies Ocean Restaurant moderate
the chapel (approximately Woollen Mill Solva Woollen Mill (open Overlooking the harbour, the Ocean
74) is never the same on the Mon–Fri; Jul–Sep: also at has an Italian bias and serves pizzas,
way up as on the way down. Be weekends; www.solvawoollenmill.co.uk), pastas, steaks and fish dishes.
St Julian’s Street, SA70 7AY; 01834 844
sure to stop off at Bosherston to with a working waterwheel, making 536; www.tenby-oceanrestaurant.co.uk
visit the craft shop, tea house or pub, flat-weave carpets and coverings.
and admire the gorgeous lily ponds. ª From the Woollen Mill, turn right AROUND TENBY
ª Return to Pembroke and on to A477 past the quarry and on to the A487. Turn St Brides Hotel Restaurant expensive
across the toll bridge, then A4076 to left for St Davids. Either park on out­ North of Tenby, on the A478, then the
B4316, this hotel restaurant has glorious
Haverfordwest. Drive through town skirts by the visitor centre and walk in, sea views. The menu uses local produce
on A487 to Solva. Park in the Harbour or carry on and over the roundabout to such as Welsh beef and lamb.
Inn car park at the near end of town. the cathedral car park on Quickwell Hill. St Brides Hill, Saundersfoot, SA69
9NH; 01834 812 304; www.stbrides
Below The pretty inlet harbour of Solva, once used for smuggling spahotel.com
SOLVA
Cambrian Inn moderate
Pies, burgers, locally caught fish and
more adventurous dishes are on offer
in this former coaching inn.
6 Main Street, SA62 6UU; 01437 721
210; www.thecambrianinn.co.uk
AROUND SOLVA
The Rising Sun Inn moderate
A family-run inn serving food prepared
with local produce and real ales.
Pelcomb Bridge, Haverfordwest,
Pembrokeshire, SA62 6EA; 01437 765
171; www.therisingsunwest.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


140-145_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 143 20/07/18 7:25 PM

144 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

w St Davids
Pembrokeshire; SA62 6RH
More of a village than a city, St Davids’ key attractions are its beautiful
coastline and its cathedral. Set in the Pembrokeshire National Park, it
is blessed with glorious beaches. This easy circular walk heads south
to the Pembrokeshire Coast National Trail and back to the cathedral.
A two-hour walking tour Pembrokeshire Coastal Path 3 and
Start at the cathedral car park on around the rocky headlands. The path
Quickwell Hill, turning right and right goes up the side of the Porth Clais
again into Nun Street. Cross Cross 4 inlet, once St Davids’ port, with its
Square and turn right into Goat Street tiny harbour and boats. At the end of
Above St Non’s Retreat, on the St Davids and left down St Stephen’s Lane. Go the inlet, follow the path right, up the
coastline, built in 1934 left at the end and then first right into hill, and head for the campsite, keep-
Pen-y-Garn. At the end of this road, ing the buildings on the right. Go
VISITING ST DAVIDS
turn right along a field to a sign for straight and then take the track inland
St Non’s Chapel. Take a left and keep along the edge of the field. Carry on
Parking
Park in the cathedral car park, or by the on this path all the way to the coast. straight up to the road next to the
Visitor Centre. After three right-then-left turns and Warpool Court Hotel entrance. Cross
Visitor Centre several gates and stiles, the modern the road, then turn left. Walk down the
On the A487 on the way into town. St Non’s Retreat 1, its chapel built path into Bryn Road to a sign for Dinas
Oriel Y Parc, SA62 6NW; 01437 720 392; in 1934, is visible. Dedicated to St Tyddewi (St Davids City). Turn left
www.orielyparc.co.uk David’s mother, Non, it has lovely into Mitre Lane, and carry on to the
Boat trips to Ramsey Island windows. Follow the path around the Farmer’s Arms 5 on Goat Street
Book tickets from Thousand Island retreat to the remains of the original and back to the cathedral.
Expeditions (Cross Square, SA62 6SL; Capel Non 2, actually Non’s house. Built with local purple-red stone on
01437 721 721; www.thousandislands.
co.uk). Boats leave from St Justinian. A 7th–9th-century creed stone with the site of the 6th-century monastery
an incised Latin ring cross marks of St David, St Davids Cathedral 6 has
Surfing at Whitesands David’s birthplace. See, too, the long been a major pilgrimage site –
Learn to surf, or improve your skills at
Tyf Surf School (01437 720 488; vaulted well said to have spouted two trips to St Davids equalled one
www.tyf.com). during a storm when St David was to Rome. The present, 12th-century,
born around AD 500 – reputed to cathedral has a magnificent interior.
WHERE TO STAY have healing powers. There is a Admire the early 16th-century oak
small shrine to Mary on the right. ceiling with wooden pendant ceiling
AROUND ST DAVIDS Follow the path up steps to the bosses and beautiful 14th-century
Crug Glas expensive
Just off the A487 to Fishguard, this is a
beautiful, elegantly furnished country Bishop’s
Palace
hotel on a working farm. There’s a Cathedral NUN ST
restaurant for evening meals.
CROSS
Abereiddy, SA62 6XX; 01348 831 302; Farmer’s Arms SQUARE H IGH ST REET
GOAT ST
www.crug-glas.co.uk
NEWPORT BR YN RD PE N Y GARN
Llys Medygg moderate
Lovely Georgian house in the heart of
Newport. Stylish comfy bedrooms with
modern artworks and bathrooms. Enjoy
fresh fruit and pancakes at breakfast.
East Street, SA42 OSY; 01239 820 008;
www.llysmeddyg.com
Below Pretty pastel-painted houses of
the village-like city of St Davids
St Non’s
Retreat
Capel Non
Pembrokeshire
Coastal Path St Non’s
Bay
Porth
Clais 0 metres 500
0 yards 500


140-145_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 144 20/07/18 7:25 PM

DRIVE 13: Wonders of West Wales 145


rood screen. Evensong is a delight found their way, in bad weather, into
(Thu–Tue: 6pm). Across a little bridge, a cove nearby. However, the invasion
explore the stone ruins of the Bishop’s was foiled when local women dressed
Palace 7, built between 1280 and in traditional tall hats and red clothes
1350, before returning to were taken for British
the car park, where the grenadiers – a tapestry in the
Tower Gate House has a Town Hall portrays the event.
display of religious stones. St Mary’s Churchyard, in Main
West of town, on the Street, has a memorial stone
B4853, lies Whitesands to the invasion’s heroine,
Bay, where legend says Jemima Nicholas. The West
that St Patrick left Wales to Wales Arts Centre (closed Sun; Above The picturesque harbour in Fishguard’s
take Christianity to Ireland. www. westwalesartscentre.com) Lower Town
It is a stunning sandy surf shows contemporary artists.
beach. Visible just offshore ª Take A487 out of Fishguard, EAT AND DRINK
lies Ramsey Island, Stained-glass window, turn right on B4313 and left
an RSPB reserve with St Davids Cathedral for Cilgwyn – a hilly drive with ST DAVIDS
choughs, guillemots, razor­ stunning views – to Newport. The Refectory at St Davids
bills and even peregrine falcons. Boat Cathedral inexpensive
A daily changing menu is served in the
trips go to the island; also look out for r Newport cathedral’s airy restaurant. Local produce
pods of dolphins and even whales. Pembrokeshire; SA42 0TN is used in dishes such as double cream
ª Take the A487 direct to Fishguard Set on the estuary of the River Nevern, quiche and ostrich burgers.
and park in the town centre car park Newport was once a very busy port, St Davids Cathedral, SA62 6PE; 01437
or in the Lower Town. but has long since silted up. The town 721 760; www.stdavidsrefectory.co.uk
has good access to the Pembrokeshire Cwtch expensive
Pembrokeshire Coast National Trail Coastal Path and is a popular base for Enjoy relaxed dining at this modern
Running along Britain’s only true walks into the Preseli Hills, famous as restaurant with seasonal menus and
local produce. Enjoy potted Solva crab
coastal park, the Pembrokeshire the source of the huge Stonehenge
Coast National Trail (01646 624 800; bluestones. For a closer Neolithic site, and Welsh sirloin of beef.
22 High Street, SA62 6SD; 01437 720
nt.pcnpa.org.uk) is 300 km (186 head east on the A487 and follow 491; www.cwtchrestaurant.co.uk
miles) and covers some spectacular the signs right to Pentre Ifan, a tomb
scenery. The Puffin bus service enables AROUND ST DAVIDS
walkers to follow the path and not dating from c. 3500 BC and built from The Sloop Inn moderate
walk back at the end of the day. a series of upright stones with a huge At Croes­goch, turn left off the A487 to
5­m (17­ft) capstone. Return towards Fishguard, to this perfect 18th­century
the A487 but cross over to the pretty harbourside pub serving a wide range
e Fishguard Norman village of Nevern. The church of bar meals.
Pembrokeshire; SA65 9HA is famous for several items: it has a Porthgain SA62 5BN; 01348 831 449;
This is a town of three parts: Lower 4­m (13­ft) high, 10th­century, two­ www.sloop.co.uk
Town, with its fishing harbour; piece Celtic Cross; a smaller Vitalian NEWPORT
Upper Town, with its shops; and to the Stone, possibly from AD 500; an The Canteen inexpensive
north, Goodwick, with a ferry terminal. avenue of “bleeding yews” which This family restaurant serves good
Park in the centre to explore the town exude a bright red sap and, inside, the pizzas and burgers, local beers and take­
aways. Light snacks and homemade
where the “Last Invasion of Britain” Maglocunus Stone, inscribed with a cakes are available in the daytime.
(1797) took place. The tale goes that 5th­century example of Ogham script Market Street, SA42 0ph; 01239 820
1,400 French troops in four warships (an ancient southern Irish alphabet). 131; www.thecanteennewport.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Follow this drive’s instructions and then Follow this drive’s instructions in reverse,
Castles, gardens, churches and retrace the journey. taking the A477 to Carew Castle.
beaches – this drive has it all.
Camarthen Bay Coastal Fun
Castles and Gardens Visit the beach at Tenby 8, skirt the From Newport r, head down to pretty
From Llandovery 1, see its castle and bay to sandy Pendine 7 and its Fishguard e to learn about the last
Myddfai – famed for its physicians, Museum of Speed. Head to Laugharne invasion of Britain. Then on to St Davids
then pack a picnic and head for 6 for bay views from both the castle w to visit the cathedral and enjoy a
Llandeilo 2 and the colourful gar­ and Dylan Thomas’ home. Carry on to clifftop walk. Have a bracing swim or
dens at Aberglasney. Climb the hill the stout bastion of Kidwelly Castle surf at Whitesands Bay and finish off
to stunning Carreg Cennen Castle 3. 5. If there’s time, stop off at Carew with supper in Solva q.
Finally, visit the spectacular National Castle 9, before returning to Tenby
Botanic Garden of Wales 4. for some of its lively nightlife. Follow the A487 there and back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


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146-147_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 146 30/03/2017 14:16
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
Exeter
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Leeds
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Liverpool
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
Manchester
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
ENGLAND
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
Birmingham
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
WALES
Birmingham
London
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Cardiff
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
Bristol
London
London
London
London
Bristol
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
Plymouth
DRIVE 14 WALES ENGLAND London WALES ENGLAND London
Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds Leeds
Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool Liverpool
Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester Manchester
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND
WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham
Cardiff London Bristol London Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London
Bristol Cardiff Cardiff
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth
Through
Snowdonia
Leeds Leeds Leeds National Park
Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Liverpool Manchester Inverness Inverness
ENGLAND ENGLAND SCOTLAND Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen
Birmingham
WALES WALES Birmingham WALES Birmingham Machynlleth
ENGLAND
Cardiff London Cardiff Bristol London Cardiff Bristol London Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
to Llandudno
Bristol
Plymouth Plymouth Plymouth Newcastle Carlisle Newcastle
ENGLAND ENGLAND
Highlights
• Spectacular mountain peaks
Enjoy the magnificent scenery around
Cadair Idris, and take a train or walk up
to Wales’ highest peak, Mt Snowdon
• Glacial lakes and waterfalls
Be stunned by the sparkling jewel-like
Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness Inverness
Aberdeen Aberdeen SCOTLAND Aberdeen lakes and streaming waterfalls of Aberdeen
SCOTLAND SCOTLAND Snowdonia National Park SCOTLAND
SCOTLAND
Glasgow
Glasgow Glasgow Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh • Redoubtable castles Edinburgh Glasgow Edinburgh
Tour the finest 13th-century military
Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle Newcastle
Carlisle Carlisle Carlisle buildings in Europe – Harlech, Conwy, Carlisle
Carlisle
ENGLAND ENGLAND ENGLAND Caernarfon and Beaumaris castles ENGLAND
ENGLAND
• Traditional seaside fun
Build a castle (made of sand) on the
beach at Llandudno, Wales’ biggest and
most beautiful seaside resort
Sweeping valley in Snowdonia
National Park
146-147_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 147 30/03/2017 14:16

148 BACK ROADS GREAT BRITAIN

Through Snowdonia National Park

This drive runs through north Wales past some staggering
mountain scenery, with sorties to the peaks of Cadair Idris and Pensar
Pensarnn
Mount Snowdon. Most of the route follows a trail through the
pristine Snowdonia National Park, a very special part of the Llanallgo MOELFRE Great Or
MOELFRE
Great Ormesmes
Llanallgo
country where many locals speak Welsh as their first language. Head Head Penrhyn
Penrhyn
Llanerch-y-medd Benllech
LLANDUDNO
On the way to the island of Anglesey, there are pretty mountain Llanerch-y-medd Benllech Penmon LLANDUDNO Bay Bay Colwyn
Penmon
Colwyn
villages – ideal bases from which to explore the countryside – Pen Pentraethtraeth Conwy Bay Bay
Conwy
BEAUMARIS
and frequent stops at some fearsome castles. Returning to the Valley BEAUMARIS Bay Bay CONWY
Valley Anglese yAnglese y
CONWY
mainland, the drive finishes at lively Llandudno, Wales’ largest Llangefni Llanfairfechan
Llangefni
Llanfairfechan
Pentrefelin
Penmynyddynydd
and most attractive seaside town. Penm Bangor Llangelynin Pentrefelin
Bangor
Llangelynin
Tal-y-cafn
LLANFAIRPWLL
LLANFAIRPWLL Menai Br Ty’n-y-groes Tal-y-cafn
Menai Bridgeidge
Foel Frasras
PLAS NEWYDD
PLAS NEWYDD Foel F 942m Ty’n-y-groes Conwy Conwy Llangernyw
Llangernyw
942m
Bethesda
Bethesda
Llanddeiniolen
Newborough Llanddeiniolen Llandoget
Llandoget
Newborough
TREFRIW
Brynrefail TREFRIW
Brynrefail
WOOLLEN MILLS
CAERNARFON
CAERNARFON WOOLLEN MILLS
Llanrwst
Bontnewydd Llanberis Llanrwst
Bontnewydd
Llanberis
Capel Curig CONWY
MOUNT
MOUNT Glyder F Capel Curig CONWY
Glyder Fawrawr
Llanwnda SNOWDON
Llanberis
Llanwnda SNOWDON Llanberis 999m 999m Nebo Nebo
Sno wdoniawdonia
Caernarfon
Caernarfon Pass Pass Sno BETWS-Y-COED
BETWS-Y-COED
Mt Snowdon
Bay Bay Mt Snowdon
1085m
1085m
Pontllyfni Pen Penygroesygroes Dolwyddelan
Pontllyfni
Dolwyddelan
Craig Cwm Silyn
Craig Cwm Silyn Pentrefoelas
Pentrefoelas
Penmachno
National
734m 734m National Penmachno
BEDDGELER Llyn Llyn
BEDDGELERTT
Dinas
Dinas
Blaenau
Blaenau
Ffestiniog Llyn
Ffestiniog Llyn
Carnedd y Filiastiliast
Pen-sarn
Pen-sarn Conwy Carnedd y F
Conwy
669m
669m
Rhyd Rhyd Pa Pa r kr k
Dolbenmaeu
Dolbenmaeu
Ffestiniog
Ffestiniog
Penrhyndeudraeth
Penrhyndeudraeth Llyn Llyn
Llangybi
Llangybi Celyn
Celyn
Por Porthmadogthmadog Llyn Llyn
Arenig Fawrawr
Trawsfynyddydd
Portmeirion Trawsfyn Arenig F
Portmeirion
854m
854m
Talsarnau
Talsarnau
Tremadog
Tremadog Trawsfynydd
Trawsfynydd
Bay Bay
GWYNEDD
GWYNEDD
HARLECH CASTLE
HARLECH CASTLE
Above Spectacular lakeside scenery around Llyn Gwynant north of Beddgelert, see p151
Llanbedr
Llanbedr
Rhobell Fawrawr
Y Llethr Rhobell F
754m 754m Eden 734m 734m
Llanfachreth
Ganllwyd
Ganllwyd Llanfachreth
Y Llethr Eden
Llanenddwyn
Llanenddwyn
ACTIVITIES Wnion Wnion
Penmaenpool BRITHDIR
Penmaenpool
BRITHDIR
Fish for brown and sea trout on the idyllic waters of Tal-y-Llyn, Llanaber
Llanaber
Dolgellau
a glacial lake outside Machynlleth Bar Barmouthmouth Dolgellau
Barmouth Arthog
Climb to the mighty summit of Cadair Idris’ beautiful and peaceful Barmouth Arthog Cadair Idr
Cadair Idrisis
Bay
Bay
892m
892m
southern Snowdonia National Park 0 kilometres 10 CAD
CADAIRAIR
IDRIS
Aberangell
Llwyngwril IDRIS Aberangell
Llwyngwril
Storm the mighty Harlech Castle and walk along the walls, 0 miles 10 Corris
Corris
Dysynni
admiring the vertiginous views Llanegryn Dysynni Cemmaes
Cemmaes
Abergynolwyn
Llanegryn Abergynolwyn
Ride one of the most thrilling rail routes in the UK up to the Pen- Pen-y-Bonty-Bont
Bryn-crug
dramatic peak of Mt Snowdon Bryn-crug
Pennal MACHYNLLETH
Pennal
MACHYNLLETH
Tywyn
Tywyn
Take a boat trip to see the seals and seabirds around Puffin Island KEY
from Beaumaris, Anglesey Drive route
Aberdovey
Aberdovey
Ysgubor-y-coed
Swing through the tree tops or go rock climbing in Betws-y-Coed Ysgubor-y-coed
Moel-y-llynyn
Moel-y-ll
Soar above Llandudno in a cable car up to the top of the Great 521m
521m
Orme, and do some skiing on the way down
148-149_Back_Roads_Great_Britain.indd 148 20/07/18 7:44 PM