(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

eyewitness travel







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CROATIA
































































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Produced by Fabio Ratti Editoria Srl, Milan, Italy
Project Editor Donatella Ceriani
Art Editor Oriana Bianchetti
Editors Sara Cattel, Emanuela Damiani, Alessandra Lombardi Giovanna Morselli,
Federica Romagnoli
Main Contributors Leandro Zoppé,
Gian Enrico Venturini (Travel Information and Practical Guide)
Contributors Božidarka Boža Gligorijević, Iva Grgic, Sanja Rojić
Photographers
Adriano Bacchella, Aldo Pavan, Lucio Rossi, Leandro Zoppé
Cartographers Grafema Cartografia Srl, Novara
LS International Cartography snc, Milano
Illustrators Modi Artistici
English Translation Susan Andrews
Skradinski falls, Krka National Park, Dalmatia
Dorling Kindersley Limited
Editors Hugh Thompson, Fiona Wild Contents
Consultant Jane Foster
Senior DTP Designer Jason Little How to Use this Guide 6
Production Melanie Dowland
Introducing
Printed and bound in China
Croatia
First published in the UK in 2003
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL Discovering
17 18 19 20 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Croatia 10
Reprinted with revisions 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017
Putting Croatia
Copyright © 2003, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company on the Map 16
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior written A Portrait
permission of the copyright owner.
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library. of Croatia 18
ISBN 978-0-2412-7165-0
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with European usage; Croatia Through
ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.
the Year 28
The History of Croatia 32




The information in this DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up to date as possible at
the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel information are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Naive painting of the Hlebine School,
Front cover main image: The Old Town of Dubrovnik, Dalmatia Koprivnica Gallery
Motovun, one of the fortified hilltop towns of Istria


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Travellers’ Needs Survival Guide

Where to Stay Practical Information
222 264
Where to Eat Travel Information 274
and Drink 232
General Index 282
Phrase Book 295









Buzara, a typical Dalmatian dish of
Croatia Area shellfish in tomato sauce
by Area Shopping in

Croatia 250
Croatia at a Glance 48
Entertainment in
Istria and the Croatia 254
Kvarner Area 50
Outdoor Activities 258
Dalmatia 90 The bustling harbour of Makarska
Zagreb 154
Central
Croatia 172
Slavonia
and Baranja 184

The Northern
Counties 202















The church of
St Donat in Zadar
Statue by Contieri, church of
St Andrew, Mošćenice



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6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE


The detailed information and tips given in may refer to the same town. Where
this guide will help you to get the most out both names are officially recognized,
of your visit to Croatia. Introducing Croatia the Croatian name is given first, then the
maps the country and sets it in its historical Italian in brackets. Restaurant and hotel
and cultural context. The six sections, one recommendations can be found in the section
dedicated to Zagreb, describe the main Travellers’ Needs, together with information
sights using maps, photographs and about shopping and entertainment.The
illustrations. In Istria, Kvarner and part Survival Guide has tips on everything from
of Dalmatia, two languages are spoken transport to making a phone call, as well as
(Croatian and Italian) and two place names other practical matters.


Croatia Area by Area
Croatia has been divided CRO A tIA AR e A by AR e A  91 Each area can be easily
into six main areas, each DALMATIA identified by its colour-coded
thumb tab.
one identified by its own Dalmatia is the most visited region of Croatia. Although tourism collapsed in
the 1990s because of the war, visitors have long since returned to the rocky
coastline and sandy beaches, the deserted islands and the splendid cities of this
colour code. On the inside Adriatic region. As a consequence of relationships and trade with Italy, an
Adriatic culture developed here which has given Dalmatia an Italianate feel.
front cover is a general map In the 1st century BC, after two centuries cities to Venice. In the 16th century, there Introduction
of war, the Romans managed to conquer
followed a second flowering of the arts,
and the sculptors, architects, painters,
the Dalmatian and Liburnian tribes and
of the country showing integrate them into their system. For writers and scholars of this period laid the 1This section describes the
foundations for the future development
over three centuries the region enjoyed
of Croatian culture, art and literature.
a period of prosperity which was
eventually brought to an end by the
In late spring, when the Jadranska
these six areas. All the most arrival of peoples from Asia, including magistrala coast road has yet to be character and history of
the Slavs in the 7th century.
invaded by heavy summer traffic, this
must be one of the loveliest parts
In 915, after a long period of wars and
interesting places to visit are unrest, the first Croatian kings founded of Europe. From Karlobag the road each area, highlighting its
winds along the edge of the Velebit
a new state, blessed by papal authority.
development over the
mountain chain and the Dalmatian
New public and religious buildings, walls
located on the Regional and town halls were built, the arts began and the Biokovo plateaux. Seawards centuries and what it has
is the long, lunar-surfaced island of
to flourish, and trading with the Italian
coast increased. This was a period of
Pag and further along are the islands
Map in each chapter. great cultural vitality, which survived around Zadar, those around Split, and to offer the visitor today.
finally the lovely island of Mljet, set
the collapse of the Croatian state and its
integration into the Kingdom of Hungary
in an azure sea. Behind are hillsides
in the 12th century. In 1409, after a long covered in vineyards and maquis
series of conflicts, the Hungarian king vegetation, dominated by the
sold the islands and many of the coastal bright yellow flowers of broom.
52  CR oa TI a a R e a B y a R ea I s TRI a a N d T h e K va RN e R a R ea  53
Exploring Istria and the Kvarner Area Sights at a Glance hUNGaRy
1 Buje (Buie) p Lovran
Istria is a triangular peninsula, traditionally divided into 2 Umag (Umago) s Opatija sLOVeNia • ZaGReB
three areas. White Istria is a central plateau of karst or 3 Novigrad (Cittanova) d Kastav BOsNia-
limestone with sparse areas of oak, pine and ash trees; grey 4 Poreč (Parenzo) pp55–7 f Rijeka pp72–3 heRZeGOViNa
Istria consists of a strip of eroded limestone with rich soil, 5 Vrsar (Orsera) g Cres
used for vines and olive trees; and red Istria is a plateau 6 Rovinj (Rovigno) h Lošinj (Lussino) adRiatic sea
furrowed by the rivers Mirna and Raša, farmed for cereals 7 Bale (Valle) j Risnjak National Park pp76–7
8 Vodnjan (Dignano)
k Krk
and vegetables. The most popular destinations in Istria are 9 Fažana (Fasana) Locator Map
Poreč, Rovinj, Pula and the Brijuni National Park. The 0 Brijuni National Park pp60–61 l Bakar
z Kraljevica (Porto Re)
Regional Map Walls of the Old Town, Dubrovnik – the “pearl of the Adriatic” q Pula (Pola) pp62–5 x Crikvenica Key
A secluded beach on the island of Mljet Kvarner area includes the city of Rijeka and the coastline as
far as Jablanac. Woods cover the northern hinterland, with
w Barban
c Novi Vinodolski
the Risnjak National Park to the north, and the Plitvice
v Senj
e Svetvinčenat
2This shows the road network and Lakes National Park to the southeast. The islands of Krk, The Cathedral of St Mary the Great on the r Pazin b Rab pp84–5 Motorway
t Gračišće
n Plitvice Lakes National Park
Cres, Lošinj and Rab are delightful places to explore. Many
island of Rab
y Pićan
Major road
pp88–9
of the towns on the coast have an Italianate appearance.
u Labin Tour Minor road
provides an illustrated overview Trieste Trieste Reka PRIMORSKO - Ljubljana i Plomin a Tour of the Fortified Towns Motorway under construction
Tršće
o Mošćenice
Main railway
County border
of the whole region. The most UMAG Rupa GORANSKA Crni Lug Kupa Karlovac International border
(UMAGO)
Ferry route
RISNJAK
BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK Delnice Velika Summit
interesting places to visit are NOVIGRAD Mirna Motovun TOUR OF THE OPATIJA KASTAV RIJEKA Ravna Gora Vrbovsko
Grožnjan
Matulji
FORTIFIED TOWNS
(CITTANOVA)
numbered, and there are useful (PARENZO) ISTARSKA Boljun LOVRAN BAKAR KRALJEVICA Bjelolasica Kapela
POREČ
1534m
PAZIN
GRAČIŠĆE PIĆAN MOŠĆENICE CRIKVENICA
Baderna
tips on getting around the region VRSAR Dvigrad SVETVINČENAT PLOMIN Brestova Porozina Omišalj Šilo Karlovac
(ORSERA)
by car and public transport. ROVINJ BALE BARBAN LABIN Rabac Valbiska KRK VINODOLSKI NOVI Krk The rocky coastline near Rovinj
(ROVIGNO)
(VALLE)
Venice Krk Brinje Karlovac
VODNJAN (DIGNANO) Cres Merag Baška SENJ M a l a K a p e l a 0 kilometres 30
BRIJUNI Plavnik 0 miles 30
NATIONAL FAŽANA(FASANA) Gacka Korana
PARK K v a r n e r Lubenice Lukovo Otočac PLITVICE LAKES Plitvice
PULA(POLA) CRES Rab Lopar NATIONAL PARK
Kampor RAB Mali Rajinac Bihać
1699m
Rab
Cres Dolin Jablanac Korenica
Getting Around Unije Osor LIČKO - SENJSKA P l j e š e v i c a
K v a r n e r i ć
The roads are good; there is a motorway V e l e b i t
190  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA linking Rijeka to Zagreb, as well as from ANJA  191 Nerezine
SLA VONIA AND BAR
Pula to the border with Slovenia. The larger Pag Lički Osik Ozeblin
islands can be reached by tourist and local LOŠINJ (LUSSINO) Gospić Udbina 1657m
Lošinj
Around the middle of the
9 Novi Mikanovci in the 1990s and now restored, ferries and there are frequent sailings in the Mali Lošinj Karlobag Lika Gračac Donji Lapac
summer season – these take cars also. Buses
it houses the Ethnographic 15th century, the Church and Susak Veli Lošinj Zadar
Map F2. * 700. k Osijek, 50 km Museum (Zavičajni muzej link all the main towns and there’s a bus that runs Zadar
Monastery of St Ivan Kapistran
(31 miles). £ Stari Mikanovci, 3 km “Stjepan Gruber”). from Pula to Trieste, while trains link Rijeka and
(Sv. Ivan Kapistran) were built
(2 miles). n (032) 344 034. Zagreb, with connections to the south of Croatia. Ilovik
inside the fort. Ivan Kapistran
was a Franciscan who was
The village is famous for the E Ethnographic Museum For hotels and restaurants see pp226–8 and pp238–40 For keys to symbols see back flap
small Romanesque Church of Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. Open famous for uniting Christian
St Bartholomew (Sveti Bartol), 7am–7pm Mon–Fri, 5–7pm Sat & Sun. forces against the Turks and
from the first half of the 13th & 8 (by appt). who died here in 1456. When
century, a rare example of Ilok became a major Turkish
architecture from before Turkish q Vinkovci administrative and military
rule. The church stands in a Map F2. * 33,000. k Osijek, 43 km centre in the 16th century,
cemetery and is called the (27 miles). £ (032) 308 215. @ (060) mosques and baths were
“Tower of Pisa of Slavonia” 332 233. n Local: Trg bana Josipa added to the fortress.
because of its leaning bell Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 653; Regional: Both the church and
tower, which appears to be Glagoljaška 27, (032) 344 034. the monastery have been
held up by the façade. At the _ Roman Days in Vinkovci (May); renovated and between them,
View of the 19th-century red-brick Cathedral of St Peter in Ðakovo cemetery entrance is a colourful Autumn in Vinkovci, Vinkovačke jeseni The Church of St Ivan, next to the fortified long stretches of the ancient
statue of St Bartholomew. (Sep). ∑ tz-vinkovci.hr walls in Ilok walls can still be seen. Parts of
7 Vrpolje was built. After Turkish rule, the one of the Turkish baths are
Map F3. * 2,200. k Osijek, 39 km city was renovated. Only the 0 Županja A settlement existed here as far w Ilok still visible.
(24 miles). @ from Osijek. n mosque, at the end of the back as 6000 BC; the Romans Map G2. * 6,000. k Osijek, 62 km In 1683, after his role in
Regional: Petra Krešimira IV, 2, central avenue, was retained. Map F3. * 14,000. k Osijek, 67 km named it Aurelia Cibalae. It was (38 miles). £ Vukovar, 39 km (24 winning the battle of Vienna,
Slavonski Brod (035) 408 393. It was converted into the (41 miles). £ (032) 831 183. n Veliki the birthplace of the Emperors miles). n Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, (032) Commander Livio Odescalchi
parish church of All Saints (Svi Valens and Valentinian, and a 590 020. _ Grape harvest festival was given the town of Ilok by the
A small country town, Vrpolje is Sveti) in the 18th century. kraj 66, (032) 832 711. _ Folklore bishop’s see from the 4th (first week in Sep). Austrian Emperor. In this idyllic
Festival, Šokačko sijelo (Feb).
known as the birthplace of The central square is ∑ tz-zupanja.hr century. In the Middle Ages it ∑ turizamilok.hr setting he built a U-shaped
the sculptor Ivan Meštrović dominated by the was called Zenthelye, because mansion, Odescalchi Manor.
(1883–1962) (see p163). Cathedral of St Peter On the border with Bosnia- of the presence of the (now Overlooking a wide loop Today, the mansion houses a
Many of the artist’s works, (Sv. Petar), built Herzegovina, Županja lies along abandoned) Church of St Elias in the River Danube, Ilok is the restaurant, public offices and the
donated to the town he between 1866 and a wide bend in the Sava River. (Sv. Ilija). The 12th-century easternmost city in Croatia Civic Museum (Gradski muzej)
held in great affection, can 1882 by Bishop Josip The area has been inhabited church is one of the oldest and the centre of the with archaeological and
be seen here. In the small Juraj Strossmayer; the since ancient times; Bronze Age monuments in Slavonia. region of Srijem, famous since ethnographic collections. The
parish Church of St John project was the finds have been discovered in a The Civic Museum (Gradski Roman times for its wine. In wines of Ilok are still produced
the Baptist (Sveti Ivan work of the Viennese necropolis. One of the first muzej), situated in the the late Roman era the here in the cellars, among them
Krstitelj, 1774) is his architects Karl Rösner Croat settlements was set up former 18th-century city grew in importance a dry white wine called Traminac. Detailed Information
statue of St John the Bust of a Woman by and Friedrich von here. After Turkish rule it Austrian barracks in and took the name R Church and Monastery of
Baptist, a relief and a Meštrović, Vrpolje Schmidt. The became one of the military the main square, of Cuccium.
crucifix, while outside is imposing façade is staging posts on the Vojna holds finds from In the Middle St Ivan Kapistran
a striking Bust of a Woman. flanked by two 84-m (275-ft) krajina (Military Frontier) (see the Roman Ages it was a O M Barbarića 4. Tel (032) 590 073. 3All the important towns
The Ivan Meštrović Gallery belfries. The interior has p41) and a trading centre. necropolis and has castrum with high Open by appt or before Mass.
(Spomen galerija) has 30 of his frescoes by Maksimilijan and The Frontier House is a a folklore collection. walls, towers and E Odescalchi Manor and
works on display: casts, bronzes Ljudevit Seitz, sculptures wooden building originally Large Roman Exhibit in the Civic fortified buildings. Civic Museum
and wooden sculptures. by Ignazio Donegani and from the early 19th century, sarcophagi Museum, Vinkovci The defences Šetalište oca Mladena Barbarića 5. and other places to visit are
Tomas Vodcka, and used by tax collectors. are displayed in the were reinforced in Tel (032) 827 410. Open 8am–6pm
8 Ðakovo decorations by Giuseppe Damaged during the bombings museum’s lapidarium. 1365, and the town was given daily, wine tastings only. Civic described individually. They
Voltolini from the 19th
Facing the garden is the
to Nikola Kont, whose family
Museum: Open 9am–6pm Fri,
Map F2. * 21,000. k Osijek, 48 km century. The crypt houses church of SS Eusebius and Pollio later acquired the title of 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 11am–6pm Sat.
the tombs of the bishops
(Sv. Euzebije i Polion) from 1775,
& 8 7 = ^
Counts of Ilok.
(22 miles). £ (031) 811 360. @ (060) Strossmayer and Ivan de Zela. and the Town Hall.
302 030. n Kralja Tomislava 3, (031) Next to the church is the Each September a festival of
812 319. _ Ðakovo embroidery, 18th-century Bishop’s Palace, music and popular traditions is are listed in order and follow
Ðakovački vezovi (first week in Jul).
∑ tzdjakovo.eu which has an ornate held in the town and groups
from all over the country take
Baroque doorway.
In medieval times this town was The Festival of Embroidery part. The streets are decorated, the numbering shown on
known by the name of Civitas of Ðakovo (Ðakovački vezovi) is stallholders sell local produce,
Dyaco, and later as Castrum held at the beginning of July and artists perform.
Dyaco. Late in the 13th century with displays of traditional local
it became a bishopric, and its costumes, folk dancing and E Civic Museum the Regional Map. Detailed
influence extended over wine tasting. Trg bana Šokčevića 16. Tel (032) 332
most of Slavonia and Bosnia. R Cathedral of St Peter 504. Open Mar–Jul & Sep–Dec: 9am–
Conquered and destroyed by 3pm Tue & Wed, 9am–7pm Thu & Fri, information is given about
the Turks in 1536, it became a Strossmayerov trg. Tel (031) 802 200. Embroidered head-dress in the 9am–1pm Sat; Jan, Feb & Aug:
Muslim centre and a mosque Open 6:30am–noon, 3–7pm daily. Ethnographic Museum, Županja 8am–3pm Mon–Fri. 8 The mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok
the most important sights.
For hotels and restaurants see p231 and pp247–8
006-007_EW_Croatia.indd 6 17/10/2014 12:10
Eyewitness Travel
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7


The Visitors’ Checklist provides
130  CRO A tIA AR e A by AR e A D ALM A tIA  131
practical information about transport,
a Hvar ViSiTorS’ CHeCKliST
Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of Practical Information opening times, events and the
scented lavender make this island one of the treasures of the Map D–E5. * 11,500.
n Hvar town: Trg svetog
Adriatic. Limestone hills form the central ridge. Hvar’s story Stjepana bb, (021) 741 059. Stari
begins in the 4th century bC when the Greeks from Paros Grad: Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana closing dates of places of
founded Pharos (the present-day Stari Grad) and Dimos (Hvar 1, (021) 765 763. Sucuraj: (021)
town). traces have been left by the Romans, the byzantines, the 717 288. ∑ tzhvar.hr particular interest.
medieval Croatian kings and the Venetians, who ruled from Transport
1278 until 1797. After 1420, defences were built, and the capital 4 Split, Drvenik. Hvar town:
(021) 741 007; Jadrolinija: (021)
was moved from Pharos to Hvar town. In 1886, under Austria- 741 132. Stari Grad: (021) 765 060;
Hungary, the Hvar Hygienic Society began to promote the Main square of Hvar, with the Cathedral of Part of the tranquil canal system, Vrboska Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. Sućuraj:
town as a health resort. Hvar was an important centre of St Stephen (021) 773 228.
Croatian culture during the Renaissance, when local-born Roman mosaic in the floor. E Tvrdalj
poets Hanibal Lucić and Petar Hektorović both wrote lyrically Conversation) in which he On the edge of the old quarter Priko bb. open May, Jun & Sep:
about the people and landscapes of the Adriatic. vividly describes a fishing trip is the Dominican Monastery 10am–1pm daily; July & Aug: Vrboska
around the islands of Hvar, Brač (Dominikanski samostan), 10am–1pm, 5pm–8pm daily. Vrboska is a pretty village
and Šolta. He began building founded by Brother Germano E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
the Tvrdalj in 1514, intending of Piacenza in 1482 and rebuilt Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766 stone bridges spanning a narrow Detailed Information
for it to be both a palatial and fortified after destruction 324. open May, Jun & Sep: canal connected to the open
private house and a fortified by Uluz Ali, the Ottoman corsair 10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: sea. Dominating the village is
sanctuary into which the local who raided the Adriatic islands 10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, 7–9pm the 16th-century Church of St
population could retreat in 1571. The most feared sea Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt. Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified with 4on Each Sight
should there be an attack by captain of his time, Uluz Ali was R Dominican Monastery huge buttresses to provide
pirates. The Tvrdalj was driven away by the stubborn Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442. shelter for villagers in times of
intended to be a self-sustaining defenders of Korčula, and came open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of St
unit, with a garden, a dovecote to pillage the less well-defended daily; Oct–May: by appt. Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly- The main attractions are listed
and a seawater fishpond were island of Hvar instead. As well ptych on the main altar by Paolo
included within its walls. as a beautiful cloister, the Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin of
Hektorović placed philosophical monastery has a library rich A traditional Dalmatian stone- the Rosary by Leandro da
inscriptions in Latin on the walls in medieval incunabula, and a built settlement around a small Bassano. A short walk north is for each place. A map shows
Narrow street between traditional stone houses in Stari Grad of the Tvrdalj, turning his home collection of paintings including harbour, Jelsa is a popular base the Glavica peninsula, with rocky
into a unique monument to a Deposition by Tintoretto. The for family holidays, with several beaches and pebbly coves. The
Hvar Town a picturesque old quarter of Renaissance humanist thought. monastery church contains the beaches on the outer fringes of seaside path from Vrboska to
See pp132–3. low stone houses and tiny Nearby is Stari Grad’s Town grave of Petar Hektorović. town. For much of its history Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll. the main towns, villages and
streets. The 17th-century parish
Museum, housed in the
Jelsa was a prosperous port,
Immediately east of Stari
Stari Grad Church of St Stephen (Sv. Renaissance Biankini Palace. It Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain exporting the wines produced in Zavala
Founded by the Syracusans Stjepan), with its free-standing contains a stunning collection that still preserves the field the villages just inland. Steps Zavala is the principal village of beaches on the larger islands.
in the 4th century BC and Venetian-style bell tower, is the of Greek amphorae, some plan established by the island’s from Jelsa’s café-filled main Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
originally called Pharos, Stari principal landmark. At the beautifully restored period ancient Greek inhabitants. square ascend to the Gothic where quiet hamlets lie below
Grad (literally, the Old Town) western end of the old quarter rooms, and a picture gallery Archaeologists have revealed parish Church of St Mary (Sv. slopes covered with vineyards.
is still Hvar’s main ferry port, is the Tvrdalj, the fortified devoted to local artists, that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
despite having lost its political residence of Renaissance poet including the gifted, Paris- figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is Trg through a famously low and
and cultural importance to Petar Hektorović . Hektorović is trained Juraj Plančić (1899– modern counterparts do today, svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
Hvar town. Stari Grad lies at the best known as the author of 1930). The Moira Gallery at but also grew wheat. Added to piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
end of a long bay and the main Ribanje i ribarsko prigovaranje Vagonj 1 shows contemporary the UNESCO World Heritage list octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
sights are scattered throughout (Fishing and Fishermen’s art and contains fragments of in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić. THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  207
206  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA
Lying in a sheltered bay at the
Stari Grad Vrboska Sućuraj
SVETI KLEMENT Jelsa Poljica 1 Varaždin eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj wear richly decorated blue P Hercer Palace VISITOrS’ CHECKlIST
is where the ferry from Drvenik
Hvar HVAR on the mainland arrives. Its uniforms and bearskin hats. Palača Hercer
Traces of occupation from the Neolithic age, the La Tene To the east of the square Franjevački trg 6. Open 9am–5pm Practical Information
pretty harbour boasts the
Sućuraj
remains of a fortress built by the
PAKLENI ISLANDS Zavala Bogomolje civilization and the Roman period have been found around stands Drašković Palace (Palača Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat & Sun. Map D1. * 42,0
Varaždin castle. Despite this, the first mention of the town is 658 760. Open same opening times (042) 210 987; Regional: Uska 4,
Venetians in 1630. Nearby, Mlaska
Entomological Museum: Tel (042)
Drašković), built in the late 17th
00. n Local: Ivana Padovca 3,
Key
Bay and Perna Bay are two of
The Croat Parliament met here
Hvar’s best beaches, with clear
ŠĆEDRO 0 kilometres 5 found in a document from 1181, when King Bela III confirmed century with a Rococo façade. as the palace. & 8 (042) 210 096. _ Baroque
Major road
shallow water over fine sand.
0 miles 5 the rights of the Zagreb Curia to the thermal spas in the area. in 1756–76. Opposite stands the Built at the end of the 18th evenings, Varaždin, (Sep–Oct);
Minor road
Gastrolov (Oct).
For hotels and restaurants see pp228–30 and pp240–45 In 1209, it was declared a free town by King Andrew II and it Renaissance Ritz House, one of century (the founders’ coat of ∑ tourism-varazdin.hr
the oldest in the town, as
arms is on the door), the palace
began to develop as a trading centre. In the late 14th century
For keys to symbols see back flap
it passed into the hands of the counts of Celjski, followed by evidenced by the date (1540) has housed the well-organized Transport
the counts of Frankopan, Brandenburg and Erdödy. In 1446, it Civic Museum (Entomološki @ Kolodvorska 17, (060) 333 555.
Entomological Section of the
£ Frane Supila, (042) 210 444.
engraved on the doorway.
was destroyed in a fire and in 1527 the Turks attacked. In 1776 R Cathedral of the odjel Gradskog muzeja) since
another fire destroyed the houses, but the Baroque buildings Assumption 1954. The museum was founded furnishings by local masters,
for which the town is famous were fortunately spared. Uznesenja Marijina thanks to the entomologist and an organ with figures of
Pavlinska ulica 4. Tel (042) 210 688. Franjo Košćec (1882–1968), who, angels playing instruments.
Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 4–7pm daily. The bell tower of St John the Baptist in in 1959, donated his natural The neighbouring monastery,
The Church of the Assumption Tomislav Square history collection to the city. from the same period, is famous
Main Towns Both the church and the two statues of St Francis of carried on by his daughter Ružica, incunabula and manuscripts, and
for its library of parchments,
became a cathedral in 1997.
From 1962 to 1980 his work was
a biologist. As well as thousands
annexed monastery were built
Assisi and St Anthony of Padua.
some of the oldest documents
century by the Jesuits. Later, the
a herbarium. From time to time,
5All the main towns have an in the first half of the 17th The interior has eight side of insects, the museum also has in ancient Croatian (kajkavski).
chapels and an ornate gilded
temporary exhibitions on a
Pauline order moved in.
pulpit from the late 17th
P National Theatre
variety of themes are organized.
century. The bell tower is 54 m
The cathedral’s tall façade is
Narodno kazalište
enlivened by pillars. The interior (177 ft) high. Ulica Augusta Cesarca 1.
individual section where the is a triumph of the Baroque. The In front of the church is one R Church of the Holy Trinity Tel (042) 214 688.
main altar occupies the width of
of the copies of the Monument
Sv. Trojstvo
Open for performances only.
Built by Hermann Helmer in 1873,
of Bishop Gregory of Nin by
Kapucinski trg 7. Tel (042) 213 550.
the central nave and has gilded
Open 9am–noon, 6–7pm Mon–Sat,
museums, monuments and Aerial view of the castle, today home to the Civic Museum columns, stuccoes and engrav- Ivan Meštrović. The adjacent Sun before and after mass. this is one of the main cultural
centres in the city. During the
ings. At the centre of the altar is
pharmacy has many works
P Castle and Civic Museum
The church dates from the
of art, among them some
E Gallery of Old and
an Assumption of the Virgin,
summer and autumn, theatre-
Stari grad & Gradski muzej Modern Masters reminiscent of Titian’s work in allegorical frescoes by Ivan early 18th century and houses goers from all over Europe
numerous Baroque paintings,
Venice. Evenings of Baroque
Galerija starih i novih majstora
come to attend performances.
Strossmayerovo šetalište 7. Tel (042)
Ranger (see p210).
other places of interest are listed. 658 754. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Stančićev trg 3. Tel (042) 214 172. music concerts are held here. Varaždin Town Centre
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8 ^
Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm
It is unknown when exactly this
Sat & Sun. & 8 by appt. ^
All the sights of major interest castle was built, though some The gallery has a large 1 Castle and Civic Museum Civic Museum V. N AZ OR A TRG BANA
collection of works by artists
documents suggest it dates
2 Gallery of Old and
from all over Europe, particularly
back to the 12th century. It was
Castle and
Modern Masters
built over the ruins of an
landscapes by Flemish and
are located on the town map. observation tower and, in the Italian artists, and portraits by 3 Tomislav Square and Modern Masters JELAČIĆA
4 Cathedral of the
Gallery of Old
15th century, two round towers
German and Dutch painters.
Assumption
were added. The castle was
rebuilt in 1560 by the Italian P Tomislav Square 5 Church of St John the PA D OVČEVA LJ. GAJEVA A . Š E N O E
Baptist
architect Domenico dell’Allio, Trg kralja Tomislava 6 Hercer Palace Town Hall P. P R E R A D O V I Č A
who created a Renaissance Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica): Trg V. LISINSKOG Church of TOMISLAV
St John
structure on two floors kralja Tomislava 1. Tel (042) 402 508. 7 Church of the Holy Trinity S . V R A Z A Ursuline Church URŠULINSKA U. the Baptist SQUARE Drašković Palace
with arcades and corridors Open by appt. Drašković Palace The rich Baroque altar in the Cathedral of 8 National Theatre Herzer FRANJEVAČKI PAVLINSKA
facing courtyards. (Palača Drašković): Trg kralja the Assumption Palace Cathedral of the
The castle’s present look dates Tomislava 3. Closed to the public. Patačiċ Assumption
from the time of the Erdödy This square is the heart of the KAČIĆEVA Palace GUN DULIĆEVA TRG HABDELIĆEVA
counts, who added the bastions town. Facing the square is the P Church of St John DRAŠKOVIĆEVA Church of
and a moat. It is now the Civic Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), the Baptist Erdödy St Nicholas 500m (550 yards)
Train Station
Museum, which has collections one of the oldest buildings in Sv. Ivan Krstitelj Palace SLOBODE TRG
of weapons, porcelain, furniture, Varaždin. Built in the Gothic Franjevački trg 8. Tel (042) 213
handicrafts, and a pharmacy style in the 15th century, it has 166. Open 8:30am–noon, 5:30– A . C E S A R C A ANINA
from the 18th century. Remains since been altered and a clock 7pm daily. KAPUCINSKI TRG National Theatre
of the wall and the Lisak tower, tower added. It has been the The church was built in 1650 in ZRINSKIH I FRANKOPANA
to the east of the castle, are the Town Hall since 1523, when the Baroque style on the site of 0 metres 200 Church of BLAŽEKOVA
the Holy
only evidence remaining of Prince George of Brandenburg a 13th-century church. The 0 yards 200 Trinity
z A g R e B  161
160  CR o A TIA AR e A B y AR e A the ancient walls that existed gave it to the city. It is guarded façade has a Renaissance
at this site. in summer by the Purgers, who doorway with a tympanum and Bus Station
Street-by-Street: the Upper Town (Gornji grad) For hotels and restaurants see p231 and pp248–9 For keys to symbols see back flap
8 . Meštrović Atelier
Ivan Meštrović lived in this
In the Upper Town there are various institutions which have The great Croatian sculptor Gornji
played a significant part in the history of the city and of 7 Croatian Natural 18th-century building Grad
from 1922 to 1941. About
Croatia. They now house the political and cultural centres History Museum ten years before his death
of the country: the presidency of the Republic, Parliament, Created from three collections, the he donated his home and Central ZaGreb The town map shows
museum houses most of the finds
the State Audit Court and several government ministries. from Krapina, which date human all the works of art in it to
All of these buildings were restored, repaired or rebuilt after presence in Croatia back to the the state.
the terrible earthquake of 1880. Some of the ancient noble Palaeolithic era. Locator Map the main roads, stations,
palaces have been converted into museums. There are also
three interesting churches: the ancient church of St Mark,
the Baroque church of St Catherine built by the Jesuits, and car parking areas and
the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The daily signal to 0 Parliament Building
close the city gates was rung from the medieval tower of D E M E T R o V A This building dates from 1910, when the tourist offices.
M L E T A Č K A was proclaimed from the central window
provincial administration offices were
Lotrščak (Turris Latruncolorum). enlarged. The independence of Croatia
of the building in 1918.
q Viceroy’s Palace B A S A R i Č E K o V A
The building dates from the 17th century and was U L i C A
built after the city became the seat of the Ban
(governor of Croatia) in 1621. It now houses the
M E S N i Č K A U L i C A o P A T i Č K A 6This gives a bird’s-eye view of
presidency of the Republic. Street-by-Street Map
M A T o Š E V A U L i C A M A R K o V K A M E N i T A The coloured tiles on the roof of this the key areas of interest in the
T R G
main towns and cities with
9 . Church of St Mark
fine Gothic church form the coats
Slavonia and Zagreb.
w Croatian History Museum of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia, photographs and captions
This museum, housed in the Vojković-Oršić-
Kalmer-Rauch palace, has works of art and ć i R i L o M E T o D S K A
documents collected since 1959. o P A T i Č K A U L i C A 5 The Stone Gate is describing the sights.
all that remains of the
five original gates
constructed around
the Gradec area in
the 13th century.
j E z U i T S K i
T R G
The Klovićevi Dvori, an
important temporary
r Church of SS. Cyril exhibition site, has
and Methodius been housed since 1982
Built by Orthodox in a 17th-century
Christians in the first half Jesuit monastery.
of the 19th century, the t Tower of Lotrščak
church, designed by At noon every day a cannon is
Bartol Felbinger, has a fired from this tower, which
fine iconostasis. dates from the 12th century.
e . Croatian Museum 56  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  57
of Naive Art y Church of St Catherine
Over 1,500 works of Naive art by the Key 0 metres 50 Built on the site of an ancient
Dominican church, this is the city’s
founders and followers of the Hlebine Suggested route 0 yards Poreč: Euphrasian Basilica Interior VISIToRS’ ChECKlIST
School are held here. 50 most fascinating Baroque building. The entrance leads to a
nave and two side aisles.
For hotels and restaurants see pp230–31 and pp245–7 Eufrazijeva bazilika large basilica with a central Practical Information
Eufrazijeva ulica 22.
This 6th-century church, a Byzantine masterpiece, is The 18 Greek marble Tel (052) 429 030. open call
columns have carved
decorated with splendid mosaics on a gold background. capitals featuring animals, ahead for opening times. &
The Euphrasian Basilica was built for Bishop Euphrasius some of Byzantine origin
between 539 and 553, by enlarging the existing 4th-century and others Romanesque.
All bear the monogram
Oratory of St Maurus Martyr. Some of the original floor of Euphrasius.
mosaics still survive. Over the centuries the building has
undergone numerous alterations. In December 1997 the
basilica was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Classical concerts are held in the church in July and August.
Croatia’s Top Sights beautiful 13th-century ciborium, This octagonal building dates
. Ciborium
Baptistry
Dominating the presbytery is a
from the 6th century. In the
7These are given two full supported by four marble centre is a baptismal font and
there are also fragments of
columns. The canopy is
decorated with mosaics.
mosaics; to the rear rises a
16th-century bell tower.
pages. There are cutaways
or reconstructions of historic . Apse Mosaics
Mosaics from the 6th century cover the apse. On the triumphal
buildings, maps of national arch are Christ and the Apostles (above); on the vault, the
Virgin enthroned with Child and two Angels,
to the left St Maurus, Bishop
Euphrasius with a model of
parks with information about the basilica, and Deacon
Claud with his son.
trails and facilities available,
and there are floorplans of
the major museums. There
are also photographs
of the main sights. KEY 1 Remains of a 4th-century mosaic
Atrium
floor from the Oratory of St Maurus
Sacristy and the are in the garden. This has a roughly
Votive Chapel 2 The Bishop’s Residence, a square portico with two
Past the sacristy’s left wall triple-aisled building dating from columns on each side.
is a triple-apsed chapel the 6th century, now houses several Tombstones and a variety
with a mosaic floor from
of archaeological finds
paintings by Antonio da Bassano, a
Stars indicate the sights the 6th century. Here lie polyptych by Antonio Vivarini and dating from the medieval
period are displayed
the remains of the saints
a painting by Palma il Giovane.
Maurus and Eleuterius.
in this area.
that no visitor should miss. For hotels and restaurants see pp226–8 and pp238–40
006-007_EW_Croatia.indd 7 17/10/2014 12:10

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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

IntroducIng


croatIa





Discovering Croatia 10–15

Putting Croatia on the Map 16–17
A Portrait of Croatia 18–27
Croatia Through the Year 28–31
The History of Croatia 32–45















































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10  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA

DISCOVERING CROATIA

The itineraries on the following pages have These itineraries are perfect for a short break,
been designed to take in as many of Croatia’s or can be used to enhance one of our longer
highlights as possible, while keeping long- tours, such as ten days spent island-hopping
distance travel manageable. First come a on the magnificent Dalmatian coast. Finally,
pair of two-day tours: one of Dubrovnik, the our two-week tour of Croatia’s riches packs a
romantic city on the Adriatic, packed with feast of historical sights and natural wonders
historical monuments; the other taking in into an exhilarating fortnight. Choose or
the national capital Zagreb and its absorbing combine your favourite tours, or simply dip
mix of museums and cultural diversions. in and out for inspiration.


Zagreb

Sava

Kupa
ISTRIA

Rovinj Krk

Pula Cres Lopar
Hvar town, capital of Hvar island Rab Plitvice Lakes
National Park
Peaceful bays, a mild climate and lavender-covered Rab Stinica
hillsides characterize the islands off the Dalmatian coast.
Lošinj
Two Weeks in Croatia Adriatic Olib Pag
Sea
• Spend a day getting • Cool down and splash Zadar
to know Zagreb, the around beneath the Dugi DALMATIA
nation’s vibrant capital. cascading waterfalls of Otok
• Wander the cobbled the Krka National Park. Krka
National Park
streets of chic Rovinj, • Enjoy the stone-paved
Istria’s most charming squares and streets of Šibenik
seaside town. Renaissance Trogir, one
• Admire Roman ruins of the Adriatic’s most Split
in Pula, the unofficial picturesque towns. Trogir
cultural capital of the • Revel in the energy Rogač Supetar
Istrian peninsula. of Split, Dalmatia’s Šolta Brač
• Venture into Croatia’s biggest port and Bol Jelsa
Hvar Town
most dramatic lakeland liveliest seaside city. Vis Town Hvar
landscape, the Plitvice • Explore historic Hvar Komiža Pelješac
Lakes National Park. island, home to well- Biševo Vis Korčula Town
• Roam the centre of preserved towns and Korčula Ston
Zadar, famous for its contemporary nightlife. Polače
mixture of medieval • Mix beach life with Lastovo Mljet
and contemporary medieval history on the Dubrovnik
architecture. green island of Korčula.
Adriatic
• Stroll the narrow • Leave plenty of time at Sea
alleyways of medieval the end of the trip to Korčula island
Šibenik on the way to explore the fascinating Forested mountain slopes lead down to
its stunning cathedral. walled city of Dubrovnik. sandy beaches on Korčula, once a prize
fought over in historic naval battles.
Noon at Koločep, Jerome Miše (1931)



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Date 21st March 2014
Size 125mm x 217mm

DISC OVERING CRO A TIA  11

South Croatian Coast
Many of Croatia’s coastal
towns and villages have
yet to become the
high-rise resorts of other
holiday destinations.










Zagreb

Sava

Ten Days on the Dalmatian Islands
Kupa
ISTRIA • Explore the bustling main jumping-off point
port city of Split before for excursions to the
heading for quiet, Blue Cave of Biševo.
Rovinj Krk
unspoiled Šolta. • Enjoy medieval towns,
• Hit the spectacular pebbly coves and great
Pula Cres Lopar beaches of Brač, largest food on the slender
Rab Plitvice Lakes and most developed of green island of Korčula.
National Park
Rab Stinica the Dalmatian islands. • Spend a day walking
• Head for Hvar and or cycling on Mljet,
Lošinj
its quiet villages and home to the lakes and
idyllic coves, then enjoy forests of the Mljet
Adriatic Olib Pag Hvar town’s characterful National Park.
Sea local restaurants and • Relax as you take a
lively nightlife.
Zadar voyage by sea to the
• Soak up the unique, captivating walled city
Dugi DALMATIA far-from-the-crowds of Dubrovnik, your last
Otok
Krka atmosphere of Vis, the stop on the tour.
National Park
Šibenik
0 kilometres 50
Trogir Split
0 miles 50
Rogač Supetar
Šolta Brač
Bol
Hvar Town Jelsa Key
Vis Town Hvar Two Weeks in Croatia
Komiža Pelješac
Biševo Vis Ten Days on the
Korčula Town Dalmatian Islands
Korčula Ston
Polače
Lastovo Mljet
Dubrovnik
Adriatic
Sea







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12  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


Two Days in Two Days in Zagreb
Dubrovnik
This perfectly preserved Art, culture and a vibrant
walled city is compact and café scene are the keynotes
easy to explore, providing of this easy-going Central
a wonderful opportunity European metropolis.
for leisurely walking. Close in style to Vienna
and Budapest, the Croatian
• Arriving Dubrovnik’s capital is very different
airport is 22 km (13 miles) to the Mediterranean-
east of the city at Čilipi. flavoured towns of the
A bus runs to the Old Town Adriatic coast.
every 90–120 minutes.
• Arriving Zagreb airport
• Moving on The bus station
and ferry port, 3 km (1 mile) Decorative grotto at Trsteno Arboretum, is 15 km (9 miles) south
west of the Old Town at just outside Dubrovnik of the city. Buses run to
Gruž, offer services to the the city bus station every
Dalmatian coast and islands. Day 2 30–60 minutes.
Morning Take the 10-minute • Getting around Zagreb’s
boat trip from the Old Port to tram system is efficient and
Day 1 the island of Lokrum (p152), the comprehensive. Tickets can
Morning Start with a tour site of a ruined monastery, botan- be bought on board trams
of the city walls (p148), a ical gardens and numerous coves or from any newspaper kiosk.
popular destination that can perfect for bathing. Returning to
get crowded later in the day. the mainland, take a look at the
Follow this with a stroll along the medieval quarantine buildings Day 1
Stradun (p150), the Old Town’s of the Lazareti (p148) before Morning Begin your first day
main street and the site of many taking a lunch break. on Trg bana Jelačića, the city’s
of its cafés. At the eastern end central square, perpetually busy
of Stradun, the Church of Afternoon Cool off on an with pedestrians and passing
St Blaise (p151) honours the out-of-town trip to the lush trams. From here it’s a short
city’s patron saint. Visit the gardens of Trsteno (p152) just walk to the Neo-Gothic
nearby Dominican Monastery up the coast. Early evening Cathedral (p158) and then the
(p152) for its quiet cloisters is a good time to ride the Dolac Market (p159), one of
and Renaissance paintings. Dubrovnik Cable Car (p152) Central Europe’s most colourful
up to Mount Srđ to take in its collections of fruit-and-veg
Afternoon The former Rector’s stunning panoramic views. stalls. Stroll up Radićeva street
Palace (p151) houses an to the Upper Town (pp160–61),
intriguing museum. Also nearby To extend your trip… a well-preserved Baroque
is the Cathedral (p151), its Spend a day hopping your quarter where the Church of
treasury packed full of intriguing way around the unspoiled St Mark’s is a popular landmark.
relics. Behind the cathedral lie Elaphite Islands (p152) just
some of the Old Town’s most offshore, using the local Afternoon The Zagreb City
atmospheric alleyways, perfect passenger ferry as transport. Museum (p162) will fill you in on
for leisurely strolling. Zagreb’s eventful history, while
the nearby Tower of Lotrščak
(p165) offers impressive views of
the downtown area. Descend to
Ilica, the main shopping street,
and the Croatian National
Theatre (p166) in its pretty
square. Return to the main
square via Cvjetni trg or “Flower
Square”, where many of Zagreb’s
liveliest cafés can be found.
Day 2
Morning Stroll south from
the main square to the
Archaeological Museum (p168),
strong on prehistory and
Egyptology. The nearby Gallery
Dubrovnik Cable Car, offering stunning views of the walled city of Old Masters (pp170–71) is a
For practical information on travelling around Croatia see pp274–81



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DISC OVERING CRO A TIA  13


superb collection of European
paintings. Northwest of here,
Teslina and Masarykova streets
are full of lunching opportunities.
Afternoon Choose between
the spectacular Museum of
Contemporary Art (p169), a
tram ride south of the river Sava,
or the woodland delights of
Maksimir Park (p169), a short
tram journey to the east. If it’s
the park you choose, return
to the centre via Mirogoj
Cemetery (p169) with its rich
variety of memorial sculptures. Museum of Contemporary Art, Zagreb
Ten Days on the Day 2: Šolta or more. The main settlement,
Dalmatian Islands Nearest of the islands to Hvar town, is famous for its hip
Split, Šolta (p126) is also bars, trendy clubs and yachting
• Airports Arrive at Split and the least visited, and has scene. A short distance away,
depart from Dubrovnik – consequently retained a great the comparatively sleepy former
although this itinerary can deal of charm. Ancient, stone- fishing ports of Jelsa or Stari
just as easily be followed built villages characterize the Grad offer a much more laid-
in reverse. fertile interior, while the back, family-attuned experience.
• Transport Split is the slow-paced fishing ports of
main ferry port for the Stomorska and Maslinica offer Days 6 & 7: Vis
Dalmatian islands, while swimming and relaxation. Hop from Hvar to Vis (pp128–9)
Dubrovnik is connected to to enjoy one of the Adriatic’s
some of the southern islands Day 3: Brač most characterful islands. Vis
in the group. Island-to-island You’ll have to return to Split to favours independent tourists
routes are operated by catch a ferry to Brač (p126), rather than large hotels, and has
passenger-only boat largest of the Dalmatian islands a correspondingly relaxed
services in season. and best-known when it comes atmosphere. The ports of Vis
to beach holidays. Supetar, on town and Komiža are beautifully
the northern coast, boasts unspoiled, and there are some
Day 1: Split broad pebble bays, while Bol wonderful coves for swimming.
Split (pp120–25) is the main to the south is the site of the Accessible by boat from Komiža,
ferry port of the Croatian spectacular Zlatni rat, a spit of the islet of Biševo is famous for
Adriatic, and although you may fine shingle that is one of the the Blue Cave, a sea grotto filled
pass through it more than once most breathtaking bathing with water-filtered light.
in the course of your island- spots in the Adriatic.
hopping trip, it’s well worth Days 8 & 9: Korčula
spending a day exploring this Days 4 & 5: Hvar East of Vis, Korčula (pp138–9) is
multi-layered city. The Roman A catamaran service connects one of the most varied of the
remains that form the heart of Bol with the port of Jelsa on islands, with chic, fashionable
modern Split provide eternally Hvar (pp130–33), an island that Korčula town rubbing shoulders
fascinating points of reference. cries out for a stay of two days with rustic inland villages and
semi-secret beaches. A popular
day-trip from Korčula, Mljet is a
sparsely populated, forested
island taken up in large part by
Mljet National Park (pp142–3).
Inside the park are saltwater
lakes, woodland trails and
plenty of places to hire bikes.
Day 10: Dubrovnik
The sea journey from Korčula to
Dubrovnik (pp146–53) passes
many smaller islands and offers
stunning views of the south
Dalmatian coast – the perfect
Small boats moored at Maslinica on the island of Šolta way to wind up your tour.




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14  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


surviving amphitheatres in the
world. There are dramatic rocky
beaches right on the outskirts
of town, and Pula’s restaurants
are famous for offering the best
of a regional cuisine rich in fish,
shellfish and truffles.
Day 4: Rab
There are several inviting
islands in the northern Adriatic
but few are quite as idyllic as
Rab (pp84–5). Rab town, the
historic island capital, is famous
for its medieval churches and
Plitvice Lakes National Park, perfect for a lakeside walk or a bracing hike their soaring belfries, while the
nearby villages of Lopar and
then make it the excellent Kampor sit beside some of
Two Weeks in Croatia Museum of Contemporary Art, the most spectacular sandy
showpiece of a restless and beaches and shallow bays in
• Airports Arrive at Zagreb forward-looking culture. Croatia. Don’t forget to try
and depart from Dubrovnik. the local delicacy, Rapska
• Transport Mainland Croatia Day 2: Rovinj torta (Rab cake), a delicious
is covered by a fast and Thanks to recent road combination of light pastry
efficient bus network. You improvements Zagreb is only and marzipan.
will need to use ferries to get a few hours’ drive from the
to the islands: Split is the northern coast, where the Day 5: Plitvice Lakes
main passenger port for heart-shaped Istrian peninsula National Park
Hvar and Korčula. juts into the Adriatic. Istria is Returning to the mainland,
studded with Venetian-style scenic roads wind their way
coastal towns and Rovinj (p59) over the Velebit mountain
Day 1: Zagreb is the most charming of the range, a dramatically dry
Croatia’s laid-back capital city, bunch. With its well-preserved and rocky place on its sea-
Zagreb (pp154–71) is the ideal medieval centre, quirky gallery ward side, lush and forested
place to unwind after your scene and some of Croatia’s further east. On the far side
inward journey. A walk round best restaurants, Rovinj is the of the Velebit’s main ridge lies
the atmospheric Upper Town epitome of Adriatic chic. the stunning Plitvice Lakes
sheds light on the country’s National Park (pp88–9),
eventful history, while the Day 3: Pula a frothing sequence of
pedestrianized streets around Standing at the southern apex waterfalls, lakes and streams.
Zagreb’s main square, filled of the Istrian peninsula, the Walkways weave their way
with pavement cafés, are alive port city of Pula (pp62–5) is around the water, while trails
with strollers and socializers. dominated by the 1st-century lead into the wilder, woodland
If you only have time for Roman arena that stands in its parts of the park in the
one sightseeing destination centre, one of the largest surrounding hills.


















Prettily painted houses dividing turquoise sea and sky, Rovinj
For practical information on travelling around Croatia see pp274–81



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DISC OVERING CRO A TIA  15


Day 9: Trogir
Lying between Šibenik and
Split, Trogir (pp114–17) is one of
the most delightful small towns
of the Croatian Adriatic, not
least because of the medieval
cathedral that towers above the
Old Town. Trogir’s perfectly
preserved web of tiny streets
and small squares is ideal
for long evening walks; plentiful
harbour-side cafés will help
you unwind.
Rab town, capital of the island of Rab, Day 10: Split Palms and parasols outside the Church and
with its distinctive bell towers The unofficial capital of the Monastery of St. Dominic, Trogir
Adriatic and its main passenger
Day 6: Zadar port, Split (pp120–25) is one Day 12: Korčula
A short drive southwest of of those Mediterranean cities The turreted medieval town of
Plitvice, Zadar (pp94–9) is that simply bubbles with Korčula (pp138–9) is one of the
the main seaport serving the character. It was founded as a coast’s historic gems, its solid-
northern Dalmatian islands. It is retirement home by the Roman stone core of ancient houses
also one of the rising stars of emperor Diocletian, and the split by tiny stepped streets.
Adriatic tourism, with bold new remains of his palace still form Some of Croatia’s best beaches
public artworks such as Sea the core of the Old Town. lie just out of town at Lumbarda.
Organ and Greeting to the Sun Crammed with cafés and bars, Korčula is known for fine wines
by architect Nikola Bašić giving this buzzing hive of daytime and seafood, although many
the seafront of this vibrant and night-time activity village restaurants in the island’s
peninsula city a uniquely represents maritime Croatia interior serve up delicious roast
contemporary feel. There is a at its most vivacious. meats. Don’t leave without
wealth of Roman and medieval sampling cukarin, a delicious
monuments to explore, and the Day 11: Hvar local citrus-flavoured biscuit.
main food market is one of A short ferry ride from Split,
the liveliest on the coast. Hvar (pp130–33) is an Days 13 & 14: Dubrovnik
An evening stroll along the outstanding example of what After a short ferry-hop from
promenade is compulsory: makes the new Croatia so Korčula, travelling to Dubrovnik
sunsets here are spectacular. popular with visitors. Cocktail by land takes you along the
bars and yacht marinas add Pelješac peninsula, famous for
Day 7: Šibenik contemporary swank to the its red wines and oysters – stop
The main city of mid-Dalmatia, Renaissance backdrop of Hvar for lunch at Ston (p137) to enjoy
Šibenik (pp108–11), is steeped town, while elsewhere on the both. Once in Dubrovnik itself
in history, with a warren of island, sleepy villages and you will need at least a day and
picturesque alleyways jostling pebble-beached coves offer a half to get the best out of this
below an impressive ensemble up a soothing blend of rest enchanting city: see the two-
of hilltop fortresses. Local and relaxation. day itinerary on p12 for ideas.
restaurants serve outstanding
fresh seafood and superb local
wines, especially the dry red
Babić from nearby Primošten.
Day 8: Krka National Park
Šibenik is the ideal base from
which to visit the spectacular
Krka National Park just inland
(pp106–7), an extensive natural
wonderland that you will need
a whole day to explore. The
pretty town of Skradin is the
gateway to Skradinski buk,
where you can bathe beside
waterfalls and visit old
watermills. Boat trips take you
deeper into the park, through
lakes and canyons. Pula’s Roman amphitheatre, now used to stage concerts and other events




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16  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA

Putting Croatia on the Map Judenburg Hartberg Szombathely
Veszprém
Covering an area of 56,594 sq km (21,825 sq miles), Croatia AUSTRIA Graz
has a population of approximately 4,285,000 with an average HUNGARY
of 76 inhabitants per square kilometre. Since the break-up Zalaegerszeg Lake
of the former Yugoslavia, and Croatian independence, the Wolfsberg Balaton
country has been bordered by Slovenia, Hungary, Bosnia- Drau
Herzegovina and the two now independent republics of Klagenfurt Maribor
Serbia and Montenegro. It is not a large country, but it has a Slovenj Gradec
wide variety of natural and man-made environments. From Čakovec Nagybajom
a topographical point of view the country is made up of Kranj SLOVENI A Varaždin
three types of terrain. Much is mountainous, with peaks up Celje Nagyatád
to 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high, mostly covered with forest and Krapina Koprivnica
pasture. The vast Pannonian Plain lies between the rivers Ljubljana Krško Ðurđevac Szigetvár
Drava, Sava and the Danube. Coastal Croatia is nearly 600 km Ivančna
(372 miles) long, but over 2,000 km (1,242 miles) long when Gorica Zagreb Bjelovar Virovitica
the indented coastline is taken into account, and twice Postojna Čazma
that when the hundreds of islands are included. Jastrebarsko Ivanić CROA TIA
Grad
Ilirska Bistrica Kočevje Osijek
Koper Daruvar
Karlovac Sisak Erdut
Umag Delnice Kutina Velika Našice
Buje
Rijeka Glina Lipik
Poreč Pazin Kraljevica Dobra Sava Novska Požega Ðakovo Vinkovci Novi Sad
Ogulin Ilok
Plomin Novi Vinodolski Kostajnica Vrpolje
Rovinj Krk Slunj Stara Slavonski Sremska
Krk Gradiška Brod Županja Mitrovica
Vodnjan Bosanskj
Ferrara Cres Baška Senj Novi
Pula Otočac
Cres
Rab Banja Luka Bijeljina Belgrade
Doboj
Šabac
Jablanac Teslić
Bologna Bosanski
Ravenna Novalija Lički Osik Petrovac
Lošinj Karlobag Tuzla SERBIA
Mrkonjić Grad
Pag Zavidovići
Adr iatic Silba
Forli Pag Jajce Travnik
Sea Nin Otrič Zenica Valjevo
Rimini Zadar BOSNIA-HERZEGOVIN A Vlasenica
Benkovac Knin Bugojno
SAN Pesaro Dugi Otok
Bagno MARINO Pašman Sarajevo Sokolac Uzice
di Romagna
Drniš Livno Višegrad
Ancona Šibenik Sinj Gorazde
I TA LY Žirje Konjic
Arezzo Split
Civitanova Marche Trogir Imotski Foča
Corridonia
Mostar
Šolta
Lake Perugia Brač Makarska
Trasimeno Šehovina
Hvar MONTENEGRO
San Benedetto
Ascoli del Tronto Čapljina
Piceno Ploče Metković
Vis Korčula Badija
Neum Bileća
Teramo
Korčula Jasenovo
Lake Terni Polije
Bolsena
Pescara Lastovo Mljet Dubrovnik
L'Aquila
Herceg
Lake Novi
Bracciano
Sulmona
Avezzano
Termoli
Rome Greece,
Egypt Bari
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PUT TING CRO A TIA ON THE M AP  17


Judenburg Hartberg Szombathely Europe NORWAY
Veszprém
SWEDEN
AUSTRIA Graz Nor th
HUNGARY Sea DENMARK
Zalaegerszeg Lake UNITED
Wolfsberg Balaton REP. OF KINGDOM BELARUS
IRELAND NETHERLANDS POLAND
GERMANY
BELGIUM
CZECH
Drau
Klagenfurt Maribor REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
Slovenj Gradec FRANCE AUSTRIA
Nagybajom Atlantic SWITZ. HUNGARY
Čakovec Ocean SLOV. ROMANIA
SLOVENI A CROATIA
Kranj Varaždin BOSNIA SERBIA
Nagyatád IT AL Y HERZ. BULGARIA
Celje MONTEN. KOS.
Krapina
Koprivnica MAC.
PORTUGAL ALBANIA
Ljubljana Szigetvár
Krško Ðurđevac SP AIN GREECE
Ivančna
Gorica Zagreb Bjelovar Virovitica
Postojna Čazma TUNISIA Mediter r anean
Jastrebarsko Ivanić CROA TIA MOROCCO ALGERIA Sea
Kočevje Grad
Ilirska Bistrica Osijek
Koper Daruvar
Karlovac Sisak Erdut
Umag Delnice Kutina Velika Našice
Buje
Rijeka Glina Lipik
Poreč Pazin Kraljevica Dobra Sava Novska Požega Ðakovo Vinkovci Novi Sad
Ogulin Ilok
Plomin Novi Vinodolski Kostajnica Vrpolje
Rovinj Krk Slunj Stara Slavonski Sremska
Krk Gradiška Brod Županja Mitrovica
Vodnjan Bosanskj
Ferrara Cres Baška Senj Novi
Pula Otočac
Cres
Rab Banja Luka Bijeljina Belgrade
Doboj
Šabac
Jablanac Teslić
Bologna Bosanski
Ravenna Novalija Lički Osik Petrovac
Lošinj Karlobag Tuzla SERBIA
Mrkonjić Grad
Pag Zavidovići
Adr iatic Silba
Forli Pag Jajce Travnik
Sea Nin Otrič Zenica Valjevo
Rimini Zadar BOSNIA-HERZEGOVIN A Vlasenica
Benkovac Knin Bugojno
SAN Pesaro Dugi Otok
Bagno MARINO Pašman Sarajevo Sokolac Uzice
di Romagna
Drniš Livno Višegrad
Ancona Šibenik Sinj Gorazde
I TA LY Žirje Konjic
Arezzo Split
Civitanova Marche Trogir Imotski Foča
Corridonia
Mostar
Šolta
Lake Perugia Brač Makarska
Trasimeno Šehovina
Hvar MONTENEGRO
San Benedetto
Ascoli del Tronto Čapljina
Piceno Ploče Metković
Vis Korčula Badija
Neum Bileća
Teramo Key
Korčula Jasenovo
Lake Terni Polije
Bolsena Motorway
Pescara Lastovo Mljet Dubrovnik Motorway under
L'Aquila construction
Herceg Major road
Lake Novi
Bracciano Minor road
Sulmona Railway line
Avezzano 0 kilometres 75 International border
Termoli 0 miles 50 Ferry route
Rome Greece,
Egypt Bari
For keys to symbols see back flap
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INTRODUCING CRO A TIA  19

A PORTRAIT OF CROATIA


Croatia forms a meeting point between the Mediterranean and central
Europe, and between the Alps and the Pannonian Plain. Its relatively small
territory is made up of a wide variety of landscapes. A stunningly beautiful
country, it has re-emerged from the difficult years of conflict and regained
its role as a popular holiday destination.

Croatia seceded from the Federal of World War I, Croatia declared
Socialist Republic of Yugoslavia in 1990, indepen dence but, under pressure
following the first free elections since from greater powers, agreed to become
World War II. However, the brutal conflict part of the kingdom of Yugoslavia.
that quickly followed had disastrous From the ruins of the Habsburg empire
effects on the economy and led to the emerged Yugoslavia: a new state of
damage and destruction of many historic Serbs, Croatians and Slovenes.
monuments and treasures. The United Few people live in the steep
Nations administered disputed territories mountainous areas and as a result
until 1995, and the last region, Eastern the forests of this region, among the
Slavonia, was returned to Croatian most beautiful in southern Europe,
administration in January 1998. are unspoilt. The coast and larger
The resolution of the conflict recreated islands are more densely populated
a country which had lost its autonomy and the income from tourism is
long ago in 1102, when Croatian important to many. The political
nobles handed the vacant crown to upheavals of the last decade of the
King Koloman. Under Koloman, Croatia 20th century have caused a shifting
became part of Hungary and remained of the population and many Serbs
so for 900 years, until 1918. At the end have moved away.





























Zrmanja river valley, running below the Velebit mountains, Dalmatia
Pretty quayside on the island town of Krk



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20  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA

and provides employment for an
increasing number of workers,
mainly in the tourist sector, which
has recovered after a decade of
recession and neglect: 7 per cent
of the population is employed
in this area. Demand for fresh
fish to supply the tourist resorts
means that the fishing industry
has revived and mussel farming
has also expanded, in particular
along the Limski Channel and
around Ston. The privatization
Fisherman mending his nets in the port of Fažana of much agricultural land, and the
introduction of modern machinery
Population and the rationalization of crops, have
According to a census carried out in reduced the number of farm workers.
2011, Croatia has a population of However, the production of fruit and
4,284,889. Compared with the census wine grapes has recovered, and overall
of 2001, this is a decrease of nearly quality is improving significantly.
155,000 in the population. These figures, The urgent need to rebuild public
a reflection of the upheavals of the 1990s, and privately owned buildings
reduce the numbers to the population damaged during the conflict in the
levels of 1968. Two different factors were 1990s and the ever-increasing demand
responsible for these changes: firstly, for tourist facilities keeps the numbers
the departure of thousands of employed in the building trade high:
Serbians (partially offset by the 7 per cent of the workforce is
return of Croatians resident in involved in the construction
other parts of former Yugoslavia), industry. However, in spite of
and secondly, the emigration of an improved standard of living
many young people in search for most of the population,
of work in other countries in unemployment is still high.
Europe, America or Australia. Croatia hopes to resolve most
The tragic events of the of its employment problems
1990s have also altered the now that it has joined the
distribution of the population, European Union, offering
emptying villages and concen- land, energy and labour at
trating populations in large competitive costs. The building
urban centres. Changes to the Woman in the typical of a modern road network
size of many towns and cities, costume of Konavle with the construction of new
the result of enlarging their motorways, the modernization
territorial boundaries, make detailed of the railways and plans to improve the
analysis difficult, particularly with regard ports will also help to alleviate high
to Zagreb, Rijeka, Split, Osijek and Zadar. unemployment levels.

Economy Traditions and Customs
Manufacturing industries are Since the rebirth of the Croatian
concentrated in the larger cities and state, all kinds of traditional festivals
employ 20 per cent of the population. have reappeared. These festivals,
The service industry is being overhauled ceremonies or games commemorate




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A POR TR AIT OF CRO A TIA  21

historical, religious and military
events. Some festivals are ex pressions
of primitive or ancient faith, and mix
Christianity with ancient pagan rites;
others are linked to the religious
calendar. Traditional costumes and
jewellery, carefully preserved by the
older generation, are worn on
these occasions. The materials may
sometimes be new but the designs
stay faithfully traditional. One of many religious events in Split
Other expressions of popular culture
are the rites linked to the rhythms of Language
farming: harvesting, bringing flocks The attempt to fuse the Croatian
down from the mountains, felling and Serbian languages lasted more
trees. The Feast of St Blaise, the patron than a century, but in 1991 the
saint of Dubrovnik, is magnificent. official language of Croatia became
People from local and surrounding Croatian, and this is now part of
parishes gather, dressed in splendid the constitution. The language has
costumes and displaying ancient always been a fundamental part of
banners in honour of the saint. Croatian identity, even under foreign
Even the communists were unable domination. The people continue to
to suppress this tradition. Another use three basic dialects, štokavski in
spectacular festivity is the Olympics southern and eastern Croatia, čakavski
of Ancient Sports in Brođanci, when in Istria and parts of Dalmatia, and
young people parade in gold- kajkavski in Zagreb and the north.
embroidered costumes, followed by A dialect similar to Venetian is spoken
groups of musicians. Other important along the coast.
events are the Festival of the Bumbari
in Vodnjan with its donkey race, the Religion
Folk Festival in Ðakovo and the Religious feeling has always been
Moreška and Kumpanija festivals in important to Croatians. Religion
Korčula, commemorating battles was relegated to a secondary role
against the Ottoman Turks. during the communist period but the
great sanctuaries are
once again centres of
spirituality. In the 2011
census, 90 per cent
declared they were
Christian (86 per cent
Catholic, 4 per cent
Orthodox), with a
Muslim minority,
mostly Bosnians, and
a Pro testant minority,
mostly Hungarians.
The Orthodox
community has shrunk
due to the fall in the
Visitors admiring historic buildings in Split’s Old Town number of Serbians.




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22  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


The Landscape and Wildlife of Croatia

A wide variety of landscapes can be found in Croatia, from
wild uninhabited craggy gorges to steep river valleys and a
stunningly beautiful indented coastline stretching into the
lower Adriatic, dotted with hundreds of islands. A plateau
stretches from the Istrian peninsula towards Gorski kotar
and ends in the hilly vine-growing region of Zagorje. The
geological formations produced by the porous limestone
terrain called karst are found in Gorski kotar and continue
to nearby Istria and the Velebit mountains, where the
combination of wind, rain and rock has created strange
shapes called kukovi. Nicknames and legends have been
created by folklore for these rock formations, and for the
thousands of rocky islands off the coast, remnants of an Seagull perched on a rocky outcrop near
ancient mountain chain. the island of Pag

















Mountains The Plain
Mountains form 40 per cent of Croatia and rise The plain is bordered by wide rivers which also
to nearly 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high. The higher define Croatia’s borders for much of their length.
land is given over to sheep farming and the The vast Pannonian Plain is the breadbasket
breeding of livestock. The forests are mixed, of Croatia. Maize, wheat, soya and tobacco are
with pine, fir, chestnut and beech, depending grown here and at the fringes are vine-covered
on altitude and microclimate. The wildlife hills. At one time there were forests here,
includes bears, wolves, wild boar, lynxes, dominated by the Slavonian oak, much sought-
badgers, foxes, roebucks and chamois. Forestry after in Europe for the quality of its wood. A few
management aims to control deforestation. isolated remnants of these forests can still be seen.
The forests are a precious The oak of Slavonia,
resource in Croatia. Thick famous since ancient times,
vegetation covers more was used to build most of
than 30 per cent of the ships in the Venetian and
the country. Dubrovnik fleets, because of
its extraordinary strength.



The Croatian plain
The chamois was thought to is one of the most
have disappeared from Croatia fertile areas in
but there are now a dozen or Europe. Some
so animals originating agricultural produce
from Slovenia. is exported.





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A POR TR AIT OF CRO A TIA  23



National Parks
Croatia began protecting wildlife areas of particular
importance in 1949 by setting up the Plitvice Lakes
National Park on the Lika plateau. A few years later, the
Risnjak National Park was founded north of Rijeka,
then in 1985 the Krka National Park north of Šibenik.
The Paklenica National Park, at the heart of the Velebit
mountain chain, dates from 1949. In 1978 it was declared
a world biosphere reserve by UNESCO and later included
on the list of World Heritage Sites. It is home to over
2,400 species of plant. There are four national parks in Risnjak National Park with its thick forests of fir
the Adriatic: the Mljet National Park, founded in 1960, and beech
the Kornati National Park (1980), the Brijuni National Park
(1983) and the North Velebit National Park (1999). There are also nature reserves, oases, biotopes
(environments characterized by particular conditions) and two marshes: Kopački rit and Lonjsko
polje. In 2008, Stari Grad Plain on the island of Hvar was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.



















The Coast Lakes and Rivers
The coast’s appearance is determined by the The lakes of Croatia are not large, but some are
extent of its exposure to the fierce, northeast truly spectacular, as for example those of Plitvice
bora wind. Mediterranean flora flourishes on the and those formed by the River Krka. The rivers
sheltered side, with olives, lemon trees and vines. are another of Croatia’s valuable resources. The
Low-growing vines are cultivated along the central Danube, Drava, Sava and Kupa are all navigable
part of the coast and on some of the islands, and form international transport routes
sheltered from the wind by stone walls. Two (although traffic is currently partly interrupted).
common plants along the coast and on the islands The rivers abound with a variety of fish and are
are lavender, particularly on Hvar, and broom. a big attraction for fishing enthusiasts.
The marine life is Waterlilies are in
extraordinarily varied, with flower in late spring,
a wide range of species particularly in Lonjsko
including sea-horses. polje and Kopački rit.







Broom is a common Storks live near the rivers as well as
sight in Croatia. In in protected nature reserves in
spring, it bears bright Croatia. The wetlands make an ideal
yellow flowers. habitat for the rare black stork.





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24  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


Art and Artists in Croatia

For centuries Croatian art has combined elements from eastern
and western Europe. The coast was ruled by Venice for 400 years,
and between the Middle Ages and the 17th century, Croatia
was in regular contact with the other side of the Adriatic. Italian
artists came to the islands to work, and the Dalmatians crossed
the sea and brought Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance
styles back to their country. After the expulsion of the Turks
at the end of the 17th century, many churches were rebuilt in
the Baroque style, and acquired rich ornamentation. The
20th century saw the advent of Naive painting, an important
artistic trend, and sculptor Ivan Meštrović was confirmed as Maria Banac, sculpture by
Croatia’s most famous contemporary artist (see p163). Ivan Meštrović

lived in the 13th century. His
Sculpture name appears on the door of
The art of sculpture in Croatia the cathedral in Trogir, which
has ancient origins and may he started in about 1240 and
have been inspired by the which was later completed
local stone, used to construct by other artists. This complex
some of the most important masterpiece has columns,
Roman monuments in Pula arches, sculpted relief figures
and Split, which became and rich decoration. It is
models for future generations Wooden panel by Andrija Buvina in possible to discern scenes
of Adriatic sculptors. Split cathedral from the life of Christ such as
Sculpture and stone the nnunciation, the Flight to
carving reached the height 13th century. The great door Egypt, and the Martyrdom on
of expression with the of the cathedral of his native Golgotha, while other sculptures
Romanesque style. Dating city is testament to his skill. represent the months of the
from this time are the This masterpiece from 1214 year. The artist’s expressive skill
cathedral doors of Trogir and consists of 28 wooden panels is revealed in the figures of
Split, the rose windows of depicting scenes from the Adam and Eve in particular.
Zadar and Rab, the capitals Gospels of the life of Christ, Juraj Dalmatinac
in the cloisters in Dubrovnik and uses simple lines allied
and Zadar, and much church to a wealth of detail. Juraj Dalmatinac, also known
statuary. The technical skills as Giorgio Orsini, was an
of the Renaissance period Master Radovan ambassador for Dalmatian art,
are documented in Šibenik The sculptor Master Radovan which was greatly influenced
cathedral, with masterpieces was of Dalmatian origin and by Venice. The artist was born in
by Juraj Dalmatinac, Nikola Zadar in about 1400 and died in
Firentinac and Andrija Aleši. 1475. He was active in Dalmatia
The stonemasons should also and in Italy as a sculptor and
be remembered, particularly an architect. The
those of Korčula. Decades of cathedral of St
skilled work went into Korčula James in Šibenik
cathedral and the masons’ work (see pp110–11),
can be seen in hundreds of to which he
other Croatian towns and cities. contributed, is
Sculpture again reached a regarded as a
peak in the 20th century with masterpiece
Ivan Meštrović, the chief figure of the Croatian Face by
in a group of great artists which Renaissance. Dalmatinac in
included Antun Augustinčić. Dalmatinac the cathedral
sculpted the faces of Šibenik
Andrija Buvina
on the upper part
All that is known of this of the base of the apses and also
sculptor is that he was born The door of the cathedral of Trogir by the statues of Adam and Eve at
in Split and lived in the Master Radovan either side of the Door of Lions.




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A POR TR AIT OF CRO A TIA  25


Vincent od Kastva
Artists One of the most expressive Saints Julian and Nicholas (1465)
is in the church of St Mary of
Painting in Croatia cannot cycles of frescoes in Istria Danče (Sv. Marije na Dančama).
boast a history equal to that bears the signature of this
of sculpture since it was Istrian painter, Vincent od
only after contact with the Kastva (Vincenzo da Castua),
Venetian school at the end of who lived in the 15th century.
the 16th century that Croatian The frescoes are hidden away
painting emerged in Istria in the small church of St Mary
and Dalmatia. The monasteries (Sv. Marija na Škriljinah) in
and cathedrals commissioned Beram. The brightly coloured
Venetian masters to make frescoes on the side walls
altarpieces and in emulating and the inside façade were
these models the great artists painted, with assistants, in
of Dubrovnik developed. about 1471 and have a
In the late 17th and 18th primitive but vigorous style.
centuries, the Baroque style The Life of Christ and the Virgin
predominated in inland has figures of saints; the best-
Croatia in architecture as well known work is the Dance of
as art. Baroque originated in Death, where Death, holding Detail, polyptych by Lovro Dobričević in
German-speaking areas and a scythe, punishes sinners, the church of St Mary of Danče
inspired local artists; the here represented by all the
Austrian artist Ivan Ranger most powerful people on Julije Klović
(see p210) was a key figure. earth (from the pope to lords
Interest in religious paintings of the manor). Julije Klović (Giulio Clovio)
then dwindled, and in the was one of the most famous
19th century, young artists Lovro Dobričević Renaissance miniaturists.
were inspired by pan-European Little is known of Lovro A native of Croatia (he was
culture. In the 1930s and Marinov Dobričević (Lorenzo born in Grižane
1940s Naive Art developed. de Boninis), pupil of Paolo in 1498), his
Veneziano, who lived most significant
in the 15th century works are found
and is regarded as one outside the
of the most significant country.
exponents of the The painter
Dubrovnik school. developed his
Two of his great works craft in Venice,
are in Dubrovnik: the and was then
Baptism of Christ summoned to Miniature
(c.1448) is in the work in Rome, by Klović
Dominican Museum Mantua, Perugia
and the polyptych and numerous monasteries.
Dance of Death by Vincent od Kastva Virgin, Christ and the He died in Rome in 1578.
The Hlebine School
Krsto Hegedušić (1901–75), Expressionist painter and later a Naive artist, founded a group of artists called
Zemlja (“Earth”). He encouraged the work of two amateur painters from the village of Hlebine, near
Koprivnica: Ivan Generalić and Franjo Mraz, who depicted their local world on glass and canvas in fresh,
vivid style. Together with Mirko Virius they founded the Hlebine School which flourished from 1930 to
the beginning of World War II. Many other
painters, including Ivan Večenaj, Dragan
Gaži, Franjo Filipović and Josip Generalić,
followed their ideas, concentrating on
depicting the lives of outcasts, the poor, and
working folk. The Hlebine School became a
worldwide phenomenon with the 1952
Venice Biennale and exhibitions in Brazil and
Brussels. Naive works are on show at the
Hlebine Gallery in Koprivnica and the
Woodcutters by Generalić, Museum of Naive Art, Zagreb Museum of Naive Art in Zagreb.






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26  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


Architecture in Croatia

Croatian architecture, like its art, has also been influenced
by Croatia’s position in Europe. Secular and religious
buildings display a fusion of elements from nearby Italy
and Germany and other forms originating in the Byzantine
or Slavic worlds. This blending of influences was first
noticeable in the time of the Romans and still continues
today. Some styles became particularly important: for
example the impressive cathedrals of the Adriatic coast,
the legacy of many centuries of Venetian rule. In inland
Croatia Baroque architecture prevails, characterized by The Byzantine Euphrasian Basilica
exuberant decoration and expansive forms. in Poreč

Pre-Romanesque and Romanesque
True Croatian architecture begins with pre-Romanesque and dates
back to the time of Duke Branimir (879–92), who created the first state
of Croatia. Contact with the Byzantine world influenced the look of
religious buildings in Istria and Dalmatia but some decorative elements
reveal the first signs of Romanesque: small churches with irregular
ground-plans appear in areas inhabited by Croatian tribes. The founding
of Šibenik (1066) saw the first Romanesque buildings, introduced by the
Cistercians. The style spread and remained popular until the end of the
16th century, and three-aisle cathedrals with apses were built as well as
monasteries with cloisters, public buildings, town halls and loggias.
Romanesque rose The arched main
The façade consists of vertical
and horizontal lines: the upper window door, richly The Church of the
order is decorated with blind decorated Holy Cross in Nin (see
arcades and rose windows. p102), one of the most
interesting examples of
The Cathedral of the pre-Romanesque and
St Anastasia in Zadar known as the world’s
(see p96), founded in the smallest cathedral, was
9th century but rebuilt built in the 9th century. It
in the 12th–13th, shows has a Greek cross ground-
the links between Croatian plan with three apses. It is
and Italian Romanesque, positioned to ensure that
particularly in the façade, the sun’s rays fall in pre-
similar to churches found in planned positions on the
Pisa and Lucca in Italy. floor and act as a clock.
Gothic The door with
an ogival arch is
The Gothic style, more than any other in Croatia, is lasting evidence decorated with thin
of the long rule of the Venetians along the Istrian and Dalmatian spiral columns and
coasts. It developed following the Venetian conquest of the Adriatic has two lions on
coast (1420) and is a fundamental expression of the close contact the corbel.
that was established. Venetian Gothic not only influenced the design Rose window
of Dalmatian and Istrian churches but also mansions in Pula, Rab,
Pag, Zadar, Šibenik and Split.


The Cathedral of St Mark in Korčula
(see p138) is of Romanesque origins – the bell
tower is evidence of this. The façade shows
similarities with churches in Puglia in southern
Italy. Gothic elements include the pointed
Façade of the Town Hall arches over the entrance door, which was the
in Split work of Bonino of Milan.





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A POR TR AIT OF CRO A TIA  27



Renaissance
The Renaissance style was only able to The second storey,
develop in those parts of the country with windows and
which did not fall under Turkish rule. a statue of the city’s
patron saint, St Blaise,
The most important architects and artists in the centre, was a
of the time were Juraj Dalmatinac (see later addition.
p24), Nikola Firentinac and Andrija Aleši,
who worked mainly along the Adriatic The windows in
coast. They were all involved in the Venetian Gothic
construction of churches and public symbolize the ties
buildings. The cathedral of St James in between Dubrovnik
Šibenik (see pp110–11) became a model and Venice.
for the churches of St Stephen in Hvar,
St Mary in Zadar and St Saviour in Sponza Palace in Dubrovnik (see p150) has both Gothic
Dubrovnik. Renaissance buildings also and Renaissance elements, a reflection of the time it
appeared in the north of Croatia, both took to build. It was begun in 1312 (the beautiful Gothic
in the form of private residences windows on the first floor date from this period) and
(Varaždin and Čakovec) and castles remodelled in 1516–22, when the Renaissance arcaded
(Trakošćan and Veliki Tabor). loggia on the ground floor was added.
Baroque
This was the style that characterized the legitimization of Christian
worship in Croatia after the expulsion of the Turks at the end of the
17th century. The signs of Ottoman rule were eradicated and architects,
mainly of German extraction, constructed public and private buildings,
enriching them with ornate decorations equal to those of the churches,
castles and sanctuaries. The most notable examples of the Baroque style
can be found in Varaždin, Požega, Osijek, Križevci, Ludbreg and Krapina.

Vojković-Oršić-Kulmer-Rauch Palace, now home of the Croatian
Historical Museum (see p164), is one of many fine Baroque buildings in
Zagreb. The façade and interior have the sumptuous decorations of the
time with elegant columns, scalloped windows and a decorated tympanum.
Modernism
By the 19th century Zagreb had become the
centre of political and cultural life in Croatia,
which gave it a prominent role as leader in
the architectural field. Much experimentation
took place in the following century in the
capital, inspired first by the Viennese Secession
style and later by Modernism. The church of
St Blaise and Villa Krauss are interesting
examples of the latter style.
The Neo-Renaissance Mimara Museum in Zagreb
The typically elegant
building is functional The decorations in Secession style
and symmetrical are stylized and not figurative.



On the façade
are sculptures and
bas-reliefs by the
Croatian artists
Robert Frangeš-
Mihanović and
The former National and University Library in the centre of Marulić Square in Rudolf Valdec.
Zagreb was designed by a local architect, Rudolf Lubinsky. It is regarded as the
most significant work in the Secession style in Croatia.




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28  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA

CROATIA THROUGH THE YEAR

The upheavals of the decade from 1991 and the threshing, fishing and hunting
to 2000 inevitably affected the calender seasons, are also marked. In addition, every
of events which characterized the cultural town celebrates its patron saint’s day and
life of Croatia. However, concerts, theatre the “town’s day”, which is linked to episodes
seasons and sporting events have now in the town’s history. Zagreb offers a rich
largely been resumed along with religious calendar of cultural events all through the
festivals and a variety of events linked to year, while the festivals in the towns and
local traditions. The different stages in the villages along the coast are generally held
agricultural year, such as the grape harvest during the summer season.


April
Spring Musical Biennial of Zagreb Summer
The arrival of spring in Croatia (Apr). Festival of modern music. As this is the season when
coincides with a series of St George’s Day, Senj (23 Apr). most tourists visit Croatia,
important dates in the religious St Vincenca’s Day, Korčula particularly Istria and
calendar. Spring brings warmer (28 Apr). The Kumpanjija Dalmatia, this is also the
weather and also sees the dance, which commemorates period when the calendar
beginning of a series of an ancient battle, is performed. of events is busiest. There
festivals and events which At the finale local girls in are festivals dedicated to
continue throughout the costume dance in a circle. music, theatre and dance,
summer. Catholic churches Regatta Rovinj–Pesaro– Rovinj, as well as many traditional
are especially busy around Rovinj (late Apr/early May). festivals. The folk festivals
Easter time, with its Sailing race to Italy and back, held throughout the
associated rituals. with various associated events. summer are particularly
colourful events.
May
Croatian Wine Exhibition, June
Kutjevo (May). Displays of Dance Week, Zagreb
Croatian wines plus a folklore (end May/Jun). International
and music programme. festival of dance, movement
Days of Hvar Theatre, Hvar and mime, organized in
(May). Annual celebration of collaboration with
Croatian literature and theatre, European associations.
as well as scientific themes and Music events, Pula (all
presentations by scientists from summer). Various events in
other countries. the Roman amphitheatre.
St Mark’s Festival, Zagreb (May). Festival of Satire, Zagreb
Sacred music at various venues. (Jun). International festival
Tournament of Rab (9 May). celebrating the satirical.
Parade of costumed riders Brodsko kolo, Slavonski
with crossbows. Brod (mid-Jun). Displays of
International Small Scene
Theatre Festival, Rijeka (first
half of May). Groups from all
over Europe participate.
Procession during Holy Week on the Josip Štolcer Slavenski
island of Korčula Memorial, Čakovec (first half of
May). Musical festival dedicated
March to the great 20th-century
Holy Week (Easter). On Korčula Croatian composer.
Easter is celebrated with Festival of Croatian Tambour
processions of brother- Music, Osijek (mid-May).
hoods performing mystery Festival of ancient music with
plays and singing. period instruments, including
Dora Pejačević Memorial, the tambour.
Našice (Mar). Music festival Croatian One-Minute-Film
commemorating this Festival, Požega (end May).
Croatian composer, with Screenings of short amateur The festival of Brodsko Kolo,
concerts and competitions. films and videos. Slavonski Brod




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CRO A TIA THROUGH THE Y EAR  29


Average Daily Hours of Sunshine Sunshine
The Dalmatian coast is
Hours one of the sunniest parts
10
of Europe, and the island
8 of Hvar holds the record
with its 2,700 hours of
6 sun a year. The summers
along the coast are
4 hot and dry, while the
inland areas have a
2
continental climate
with hot summers and
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec cold winters.
Jan
Labin Art Republic, Labin (Jul–
Aug). Classical and folk concerts.
Musical Evenings in St Donat,
Zadar (mid-Jul–beginning Aug).
Church, theatre and
instrumental music.
Osor Music Festival, Osor (mid-
Jul–mid-Aug). Chamber music.
Split Summer (mid-Jul–mid-Aug).
A programme of opera,
concerts, dance, theatre and
performances of the first plays
written in the Croatian language.
Dubrovnik Summer Festival,
Dubrovnik (mid-Jul–end Aug). The
oldest international festival in
Croatia: music, theatre, folklore,
ballet, with performers from
Đakovački Vezovi, a folklore and embroidery festival in Đakovo many countries.
Krk Summer Events, Krk (Jul–
folk dancing in costume, medieval times, with craft Aug). Music and prose, concerts,
shows and exhibitions of displays, public preparation ballet, performances by young
regional produce. of traditional dishes and an artists and folklore.
Đakovački vezovi, Đakovo archery tournament. Concerts in the Basilica of
(mid-Jun–early Jul). Folklore International Jazz Festival, Euphrasius, Poreč (Jul–mid Sep).
displays and exhibition of Grožnjan (Jul). International jazz Performances of church and
local embroidery. artists participate in this festival secular music given by Croatian
Summer of Margherita, in the picturesque Istrian town and European musicians.
Bakar (Jun/Jul). Concerts and of Grožnjan.
performances in the local Summer Carnival, Novi
čakavski dialect. Vinodolski (Jul).
International Children’s International Festival of
Festival, Šibenik (end Theatre, Pula (Jul). Multimedia
Jun–beginning Jul). Festival festival with the participation
dedicated to the creativity of of other European groups.
the very young. Music, dance, St Theodore’s Day, Korčula
theatre and film. (29 Jul). Features the Moreška,
a dance re-enacting a battle
July between Christians and Muslims.
Summer Festival, Hvar International Tennis
(Jul). A fun festival of music, Tournament, Umag (end Jul).
theatre, folklore and dancing. International Folklore
Festival klapa, Omiš (Jul). Festival, Zagreb (end Jul).
Celebration of traditional Croatian music and dance
Dalmatian songs performed with international guests.
by groups of five to ten men. Pag Carnival, Pag (end Jul).
Rapska fjera, Rab (Jul). Traditional dancing, kolo, and
For three days the historic various shows with the local The Moreška dance, St Theodore’s
town of Rab is returned to people in traditional costumes. Day, Korčula




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30  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


Average Monthly Rainfall
Rainfall
MM Inches Rain is sparse along the
300 12 coast, particularly in
240 10 summer, when there
8 is often the threat of
180 drought. However, in
6 the mountains, rain and
120 snow are plentiful. In
4
60 2 northeastern parts of the
country there may be
0 0 summer thunderstorms.
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec Winter brings snow.
Autumn
Visiting Croatia in this season
means there are fewer crowds,
even along the busy Adriatic
coast. However this season
also offers an unexpectedly
rich and varied calendar of
events. Many of the events
are cultural but there are also
several festivals celebrating
wine and food – offering an
ideal opportunity to discover
some of the local produce of
this country.
September
Festival of the Golden
Strings of Slavonia, Požega
(Sep). Festival of folk and
Costumed jousters on horseback during the folk festival, Sinj modern music using the
traditional Slavonian
August Events include the Mostra, a instrument, the tamburica.
Pag Art Festival, Pag (Aug). traditional sword dance. At one Lace Exhibition, Lepoglava
This small island’s world-famous time the festivities ended (Sep). Exhibition of
pianist, Lovro Pogorelić, organizes with the sacrifice of an ox. traditional hand-made lace,
a two-week programme of Trka na prstenac, Barban still made according to
classical music concerts and (3rd weekend in Aug). Jousting ancient methods.
other artistic events, attracting tournament, dating back to 1696. Week of Kajkavian Culture,
international performers. Olympics of Ancient Sports, Krapina (Sep). Festival of
Sinjska alka, Sinj (beginning Brođanci (last Sun in Aug). Folk Kajkavian poetry, folk music
Aug). Folklore festival festival with traditional games, and painting.
commemorating victory costumes and musicians International Doll Festival,
over the Turks, with jousting playing in the streets. Zagreb (Sep).
competitions for horse riders. Vinkovačke jeseni,
Parades, dancing, folk music and Vinkovci (Sep). Festival
displays of regional produce. of music and folk
Baljanska noć, Bale (first Sun traditions. Parades
in Aug). Festival of the city. in costume.
Festival of the Bumbari, Grape Festival, Buje
Vodnjan (2nd Sat in Aug). (3rd weekend in Sep).
“Bumbari” is what the local Baroque Evenings
people call themselves. A folk in Varaždin, Varaždin
festival in costume with an (second half of Sep–
unusual donkey race and the first half of Oct). Festival
preparation of kroštule (crostoli), of Baroque music with
cakes of Venetian origin. the participation of
St Roch’s Day, Žrnovo and top Croatian and
Postrana (on Korčula) (16 Aug). Festival of Vinkovačke Jeseni, Vinkovci European musicians.




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CRO A TIA THROUGH THE Y EAR  31


Average Monthly Temperature
°C °F Temperature
30 85 The climate in Croatia is
25 75 typically Mediterranean
along the coast, with
20
65 mild winters and hot,
15 dry summers. Inland the
55 climate is continental
10 with hot summers
45
5 and cold winters. The
0 32 mountainous areas
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec have an alpine climate.
October January
Bela nedeja, Kastav (first Winter St Vincent’s Day, Međimurje
Sun in Oct). Wine festival. The cold makes itself felt (late Jan). Join local growers
Marunada, Lovran (mid-Oct). throughout Croatia, with to toast the patron saint of
Chestnut festival. the temperatures in wine, with tastings, food
Olive Days, Punat (Oct). A great Zagreb and Slavonia and music.
opportunity to participate in the dropping well below
olive harvest festivities on the freezing point and February
island of Krk. Visitors can pick the cold bora wind Feast of St Blaise,
olives to the strains of fluting sweeping across Dubrovnik (3 Feb).
sopile music, then enjoy an Istria and Dalmatia. Processions celebrating
olive-based feast, prepared by But Croatians still the town’s saint.
competing cooks from all over love to go out and Shrovetide sezona,
Croatia, in the evening. enjoy themselves Kraljevica. Traditional
The Town’s Day, Lipik and attend masked ball.
(4 Oct). Traditional festival cultural events. Carnival of
celebrating the town. Costume at the Carnival Rijeka, Rijeka.
December of Lastovo Colourful
November The Town’s Day, Osijek parade in
St Martin’s Day, Dugo Selo, (2 Dec). Celebration of Osijek’s elaborate costumes.
Samobor, Sv. Ivan Zelina, main feast day with music Carnival of the Riviera, Opatija.
Velika Gorica, Zagreb County and dancing. International Violin
(Nov). A traditional wine festival Advent in Zagreb (Dec). Musical, Competition (Vaclav Huml),
that celebrates the period artistic and gastronomical events Zagreb (first half of Feb).
when the must is turned are held in the city’s squares to For violinists under 30.
into wine. celebrate the Christmas season. Carnival, Lastovo.

Croatian Holidays
New Year’s Day 1 Jan
Epiphany 6 Jan
Easter Sunday and
Monday Mar or Apr
Labour Day 1 May
Corpus Christi May or Jun
Anti-Fascist Victory
Day 22 Jun
Statehood Day 25 Jun
Victory and National
Thanksgiving Day 5 Aug
Assumption Day 15 Aug
Independence Day 8 Oct
All Saints’ Day 1 Nov
Christmas 25 Dec
Boxing Day 26 Dec
A Baroque music ensemble playing in the cathedral, Varaždin




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INTRODUCING CRO A TIA  33

THE HISTORY OF

CROATIA


Situated between eastern and western Europe, Croatia has long been a land
of passage but also a point of contact between different worlds and cultures.
Diverse events and cultural influences have all contributed to the country’s
history. Croatia is particularly proud of its close ties to the West; for more
than a century, parts of the country struggled to free themselves from harsh
Turkish domination. The history of Croatia goes back almost as far as man’s
first appearance on earth.


Prehistory The Celts
Early in the 19th century ancient human In the 4th century BC, the Celts began
remains were found at Krapina in the north to search for new lands when Gaul
of Croatia. Dating from the Neander thal became overpopulated. Some tribes
period, “Krapina man” places human followed the River Danube to present-
presence in Croatia in the middle- day Bohemia; some went as far as the
Palaeolithic. Other traces of prehistoric Greek border. In the same period the
cultures have been found in Croatia. The Greeks founded fortified colonies
richest site is probably Vučedol, near on some Dalmatian islands, including
Vukovar, where the Neolithic “Vučedol Vis and Hvar and in the area of Trogir
Dove” (see p192) was found. and Salona. Greek historians claim the
Celts fought against Alexander the
The Illyrians Great in 335 BC on the southern banks
Around 1200 BC, tribes of Indo-European of the Danube. A century later, they
origin settled on the Pannonian Plain, attacked Delphi and on their return
the larger islands and along the coast. stopped at the Paludes Volcae, an area
The tribes had different names between the rivers Sava, Drava and
(Istrians, Liburnians, Dalmatians, Japods) Danube. These people were called
depending on where they settled, but Scordisci and mixed with the Illyrians.
the area was known under one name, The Celts and Illyrians were defeated by
Illyria. They traded amber and had the Romans in the 2nd century BC. After
dealings with other Mediterranean people a number of rebellions, some people
and northern European traders. Traces were expelled, but those remaining
of ancient walls on some hilltops adopted their conquerors’ customs and
confirm their presence. became thoroughly Roman.


50,000–30,000 BC
Homo sapiens Krapina man, dating 1200 BC Illyrian 279 BC Celts, now
neanderthalensis from the middle- settlement in settled in the Balkans,
lives at Krapina Palaeolithic the Balkans defeat the Greeks
6500 BC 3500 BC 500 BC
390 BC Dionysius
6000–2500 BC 2200–1800 BC Bronze cap the Elder of Syracuse
Neolithic: sites Aeneolithic: sites 7th–6th captures the island
of Danilo, of Lasinje and centuries BC of Vis and founds an
Hvar, Butmir Vučedol administrative post
St Paul and St Blaise, patron saint of Dubrovnik, in a triptych by Nikola Božidarević



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34  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA

The Roman Conquest However, many Illyrians, still determined to
The Romans conquered Croatia at different fight, fled to inland forests not occupied by
times and in different ways. First, they want- the Romans. A few decades later, in 6 AD,
ed to put an end to attacks on their mer- the Illyrian people staged their greatest
chant ships, which were united rebellion yet, under the command
falling into the hands of of Batone. The first battles were won by the
the Liburnians or the Dal- Illyrians, who soon began to march towards
matians, so they subdued Italy. After three further years of war, the
the coastal towns by Romans managed to get the better of
landing Roman legions Batone’s exhausted, famished army, thanks
transported by the fleet. to better military organization.
Symbol of the Roman The first battle took place Over the years that followed, Caesar
Empire, Sisak in 229 BC, when Teuta, the Augustus made the Balkans part of the
queen of the Illyrians, put to death a Roman Roman Empire. After a military campaign
ambassador who had tried to persuade her waged by Tiberius and completed in AD 12,
to put an end to the acts of piracy. Roman the Illyrian defences were dismantled and
revenge was fierce and the towns of Epidau- cities were founded, linked by roads wide
rum, Lissa and Pharos were attacked, con- enough for marching armies. The
quered and forced to pay taxes to Rome. inhabitants became Roman citizens and
However, despite promises to the contrary, were allowed to stand for public office.
acts of piracy continued and Rome decided Indeed, Illyria produced several emperors,
to deploy its legions based in Aquileia, east including Septimius Severus, Aurelian,
of Venice, a fortified town founded in 181 BC. Claudius II, Probus, Valens, Valentinian and,
The legions succeeded in subduing Istria, a perhaps most famous of all, Diocletian.
process completed by 177 BC. Twenty years
later Publius Scipio Nasica inflicted the first Roman Roads
defeat on the Dalmatians at Delminium and The roads were the first great public works
again on the Dalmatians and the Japods built by the Romans. They allowed them to
who inhabited the area of the delta of the move legions quickly and in fact the Roman
River Neretva. In 107 BC the Romans
defeated the Scordisci and the Illyrians and
conquered the town of Segestica (Sisak). In
87 BC another war broke out between the
Romans and the Illyrians which lasted for
three years and was won by the Romans. In
48 BC the Illyrians sided with Pompey in the
fight against Caesar, providing ships and
men. Pompey’s defeat also at first appeared
to be the decisive defeat of the Illyrians. The Tabula Peutingeriana showing Roman roads

229 BC The Roman
army destroys Illyrian forts, 107 BC Decisive Roman victory
subdues the Greek colonies of over the Scordisci who are driven
Lissa and Pharos and forces from the region; Rome owes the
Illyrians to pay taxes victory to Quintus Minucius Rufus
300 BC 200 BC 100 BC
One of 119 BC The Dalmatian Lucius
177 BC The Roman fleet is the many Metellus defeats the Scordisci and
attacked by Istrians; Rome sends Roman Dalmatian tribes near Segestica
an army which defeats them fragments (Sisak); Romans settle in Salona and
and drives them out from the begin work on the Via Gabina from
city of Sisak Salona to Andretium




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THE HIST OR Y OF CRO A TIA  35


road network remained the principal
means of communication in this part of
the Balkans for many centuries.
Two important arteries led from Aquileia:
one towards the Istrian peninsula to Pula, the
other in the direction of Aemona (Ljubljana).
The main communication link in Dalmatia
began in Aenona (Nin), went on to Zadar
and continued, connecting Scardona
(Skradin), Tragurium (Trogir), Salona, Narona,
Epidaurum (Cavtat) and finally Catarum Pula in Roman times, in an engraving from 1819
(Kotor). Other roads branched off inland from
this coastal road: the busiest was that from on the main islands and along the coast were
Salona, which went towards present-day turned into Roman towns. The main towns
Bosnia, through Klis and Sinj, near the town were Senia (Senj), Aenona (Nin), Jadera
of Aequum (Čitluk). Another road followed (Zadar), Delminium (now a village east of
the river Narenta (Neretva) to Sirmium, the Salona with few remains), Promona (a village
present-day Sremska Mitrovica, which would near Makarska, with parts of the Roman
become one of the capitals of walls), Burnum (the remains of the
the Roman Empire. ancient town are near Kistanje
The inland roads were no along the road between Knin
less important: these followed and Benkovac), Blandona
the rivers Sava, Drava and the (which no longer exists, near
Danube. In the centre of the lake of Vrana), Scardona
Pannonia, one town which (today Skradin), Narona (at the
grew in importance was Relief in the Baths in mouth of the Neretva near Vid),
Siscia (Sisak), from which Varaždinske Toplice Tragurium (Trogir) and, lastly,
roads led towards Andautonia Salona (near Split). The towns
(Šćitarjevo), Mursa (Osijek), Cuccium (Ilok), had walls, forums, triumphal arches and
Marsonia (Vinkovci) and the thermal spas aqueducts, the remains of which can often
of Aquae Salissae (Daruvar), Aquae Valissae still be seen. The best-preserved aqueduct,
(Lipik) and Aquae Iasae (Varaždinske built to serve Salona, was extended by
Toplice), which were used by the emperors. Diocletian as far as Split and is, for the
most part, still in use.
Founding of Towns The principal Roman monuments
The Romans initially founded the Istrian remaining today in Croatia are in Pula,
towns of Poreč, Rovinj and Pula, which with its magnificent Roman amphitheatre
became a place of great importance in the (see pp64–5), and in Split, site of the extra-
2nd century. Later the existing Illyrian towns ordinary Palace of Diocletian (see pp122–3).

AD 6–9 Augustus conquers all of
Pannonia and begins construction of 271 Aurelian defines the border of
forts along the rivers; later the region A statue of the Empire as the Danube, unable
becomes part of the Roman Empire Emperor to defeat the Dacians who live
with the name Provincia Pannoniae Augustus along the river
AD 1 100 200
AD 12 Final defeat of the Illyrians. 284 Diocletian becomes emperor;
In Rome Tiberius celebrates his triumph some years later work begins
with a solemn procession, at the front on the palace in Split, to which
of which is Batone, chief of the rebels, he retires in 304
now a prisoner





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36  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA






















The ancient Roman ruins of the city of Salona, destroyed in 614

The Barbarian Invasions and the Constantinople, but they were defeated
Crisis of the Roman Empire by the Byzantines. Some of the troops
In 378, after a century of relative peace, returned to the Asiatic steppes, while
the Goths invaded Pannonia and then others settled between the Danube and
turned towards Italy. From that time, and Tisza rivers, leaving the field clear for the
for the entire 5th century, the Balkans were Slavs who occupied Moravia and Bohemia
attacked by the Huns, Vandals, Visigoths to push southwards and towards the
and Longobards, which finally caused the Adriatic, conquering all the Roman cities
fall of the Roman empire in 476. and destroying Salona (614). The Slavs
settled in the countryside or in what
The Avars and Slavs in the Balkans remained of the sacked cities. These people
The beginning of the 6th century saw cultivated the land and bred livestock and
invasion by the Avars, who were followed formed extended family groups (županija)
by other Slavic tribes. Those Roman with a župan at the head of each.
inhabitants who did not manage to flee
to the mountains or the islands were The Bulgars and the
captured and sold as slaves. In 582 the Byzantine Reconquest
Avars conquered and destroyed Sirmium The Slavs’ expansion to the south was halted
(Sremska Mitrovica), one of the ancient by the Bulgars, a people of Turkish origin,
capitals of the Roman Empire. Later they who settled along the final stretch of the
also subdued other nomadic tribes and Danube. After the fall of the Western Empire,
organized a powerful army to conquer Byzantium attempted to reconquer the

380 With the Edict
of Thessalonica,
Theodosius the Great 476 The Ostrogoths of Odoacer
divides the Roman depose Romulus Augustulus, the
Empire in four parts last Roman emperor
300 400 500
Roman bust 378 Ostrogoths 437 Dalmatia comes 500 The Slavs occupy
recovered conquer and under the rule of Pannonia, which would
from ancient destroy Mursa Constantinople; the become Slavonia
Mursa (Osijek) Huns invade and
conquer Pannonia





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THE HIST OR Y OF CRO A TIA  37


Balkans and inflicted various defeats on the
Slavs, while at the same time trying to make
them part of the empire. The Byzantine fleet
was able to move the army rapidly and in
this way Greece, part of Macedonia and the
Dalmatian islands and cities were retaken.
Inland areas remained in Slav possession.
The Croats Foundations of one of the churches in Biskupija
At the beginning of the 7th century, perhaps
summoned by the Byzantine emperor Dalmatia. The area was divided into
Heraclius, the Croats, a Slavic people possibly counties which were entrusted to loyal
from what is now Iran, settled in upper nobles or bishops. The Aquileian patriarch
Pannonia and Dalmatia, mixing with the assumed particular importance for these
native Roman people or refugees from lands when, in the 9th century, he sent
the interior. In the 8th and 9th centuries, monks and priests from Byzantium to
the Croats set up territorial bases in the spread the gospel and convert the Croats
inland regions, while the coastal cities and to Christianity. Among the priests were
the islands were governed by Byzantine Cyril and Methodius, who devised the
officials with a fleet based in Zadar. In the Glagolitic script to spread the word in a
9th century, the Croats established a fledg- language intelligible to the Slavs.
ling state in a hilly area now called Biskupija
on the Dalmatian plateau, far from the The First Croatian Towns
Byzantine-controlled coast and away from During the 8th and early 9th centuries,
central Croatia, subject to the Franks. Several the first Croatian towns were built next
churches were built here and the small to the Byzantine-governed towns. Many
settlement was named Pet Crikvah. Recent (Dubrovnik, Zadar, Split and Trogir) were
archaeological digs have unearthed the inhabited by people of mainly Roman
foundations of religious origin. Biograd was
buildings. The finds are founded near Zadar, and
now in Split and Knin. the town of Knin was
repopulated by Croats
The Franks under Prince Višeslav. Later,
Towards the end of the 8th the city of Šibenik was
century the Franks, led by founded. In Pannonia, the
Charlemagne, succeeded in Roman town of Siscia (now
conquering what is now Sisak) and the town of Mursa
northern Croatia, Bohemia, The baptismal font of Prince Višeslav, (Osijek) were revived by
Istria, Slovenia and part of found near Nin Prince Vojnomir.


614 The Slavs and Avars
conquer and destroy Salona; the From 820 Croats found the cities
Roman population seeks refuge of Biograd, Šibenik and Knin;
in Split and the nearby islands Sinj and Osijek revive
500 600 700 800
Early 7th century The 799 Charlemagne defeats and subdues
Croats settle in upper Croats in Laurana (Lovran); beginning
Pannonia and Dalmatia of Croats’ conversion to Christianity.
Their cultural centre is in Aenona (Nin);
first writing in Croat appears Bust of Charlemagne
(742–814)




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38  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA

The Hungarians Krešimir also conquered the islands
The situation in the Balkans of Dalmatia. In 1054, with the
seemed stable enough towards schism of the Roman and
the end of the 9th century. Byzantine churches, Croatia
However, Hungarians from the sided with Rome. After the
Urals came to Europe and, under death of Petar Krešimir IV, his
the leadership of King Arpad, successor Zvonimir, who had
settled along the middle stretches married the sister of the
of the Danube and in the valleys Hungarian king Ladislaus,
of Transylvania, forcing out the Statue of the alleged first was crowned king by Pope
Slavs and other tribes. They carried Croat king, Tomislav Gregory VII and declared himself
out military raids in Italy and Austria subject to Rome. The Croat
but were defeated in 955 by Emperor nobles refused to participate in the war
Otto I at Lechfeld in Augsburg, Bavaria, against the Turks and killed Zvonimir in 1089.
and were forced to retreat to what are today
the borders of Hungary and Transylvania. The Union with Hungary
This Hungarian invasion was the last great Claiming the right of succession, Koloman
invasion of the first millennium. (1102–1116), the Hungarian king, came
to power after Ladislaus. He conquered
The Kingdom of the Croats Croatia and was crowned king of Dalmatia
In the meantime, in 845, under Prince and Croatia. In 1102 an agreement united
Trpimir, the Croats obtained a tacit the two states under one dynasty. A
autonomy from the Franks and formed a Croatian parliament (Sabor) was set up,
state which also controlled part of Dalmatia. to be ruled by a royally appointed Ban
This was recognized by the pope while (governor), and the state was divided
Duke Branimir into counties governed by Croatian and
(879–92) was its Hungarian nobles. In the following century,
leader. Prince to deal with the Tartar raids, King Bela IV
Tomislav was reorganized the state into two parts
allegedly crowned (Croatia and Slavonia), each ruled by a Ban.
king in 925 and New cities were founded and some were
his death, in 928, granted the privileges of a free city.
was followed by
years of anarchy The Royal Free Cities
until King Petar These cities, defended by walls, moats and
Krešimir IV towers, were built mainly in Pannonia and
(1058–74) came the northern counties. Varaždin, founded at
to power and this time, became one of the area’s busiest
Relief of King Zvonimir in the
baptistry of St John in Split united Croatia. trading centres and, for a long period, the
901 Prince Tomislav defeats
the Hungarians and forces them
896 Hungarians settle beyond the Sava. He obtains 956 Branimir, prince of Croatia, rebels against
between the Tisza and from Byzantium the authority to the Byzantines. He obtains the title of king of
the Danube administer the cities of Dalmatia Croatia with the pope’s blessing
850 900 950 1000
899 Hungarians enter the 930 The Byzantines renew the union 1000 Venice’s first armed naval
Balkans and destroy the with the coastal towns and cities that expedition against pirates near
cities of the Croats, who pay taxes to the emperor mouth of Neretva river; towns on
seek refuge in Dalmatia islands and coast of Istria and
925 Tomislav allegedly becomes king Dalmatia declare allegiance to Venice
of the Croats with the pope’s blessing




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THE HIST OR Y OF CRO A TIA  39


manning forts, as was the case with the
Bribir counts, who moved to Zrin (taking
the name of Zrinski). This intense
programme strengthened a state which
was threatened on many sides: after the
danger of the Tartars had passed, threat
of a Turkish invasion loomed.
Venice, Istria and Dalmatia
The Golden Bull of 1242 declaring Zagreb (Gradec) a Free The Adriatic coast fared differently; its fate
Royal City was linked to that of Venice. Much of Istria
belonged to the Aquileian patriarchate,
seat of the Sabor. The cities which emerged which held civil and ecclesiastical jurisdiction.
from the ruins of old Roman towns were From the year 1000, many coastal towns had
fortified: for example Križevci, proclaimed agreements of mutual assistance with Venice,
a royal city in 1252; Koprivnica, declared a which had a powerful fleet for defence
free town in 1356; and Ludbreg, which against attacks by pirates. Venice needed the
became a free town in 1320 and played an Istrian cities, which often had fortified ports,
important role in the region’s defences. for mooring its merchant fleets, which plied
The lower stretch of the Drava was the Croatian coast on their expeditions to the
strengthened, with a rebuilt Sisak and, East. In the 13th century, some cities asked
further south, a new Slavonski Brod. Zagreb to come under Venetian rule for defence
became a free royal city in 1242; Vukovar reasons, a process which in most cases took
became a free town in 1231. Thanks to tax place peacefully. In Zadar, how ever, this
advantages and non-subjection to feudal was not the case and two warring factions
lords, these towns prospered and attracted forced Venice
foreign merchants and artisans. to employ
crusaders on
The Defences their way to the
King Bela IV built forts in strategic Holy Land to
positions which were directly dependent subdue the
on royal power or granted to the great city (1202).
feudal lords. Impressive ruins remain of In 1204 Zadar
these forts, including the famous one surrendered,
of Ružica near Orahovica in Slavonia. and a year later
Samobor, in central Croatia, was enlarged Venice also
and given a fort, as were Klis, Knin and Sinj conquered Istria
in Dalmatia. Several noble families were and the city The taking of Zadar by the Venetians
also given the task of building and of Dubrovnik. depicted by Andrea Vicentino

1058 King Krešimir
enlarges his kingdom 1102 The Hungarian Royal coin 1202 To repay the debt to Venice
by uniting Croatia and king Koloman, successor of Slavonia the crusaders undertake to
conquering the to Ladislaus, is crowned king from 1200 conquer Zadar which falls after
Dalmatian islands of Croatia and Dalmatia long resistance
1050 1100 1150 1200
1000 Venice’s first armed naval 1091 Ladislaus, king of Hungary, brother 1222 With the Golden Bull the king of
expedition against pirates near of Zvonimir’s widow, unites Croatia and Hungary, Andrew II, guarantees the
mouth of Neretva river; towns on the Hungarian kingdom rights of the Croatian nobility,
islands and coast of Istria and surrendering some of his power
Dalmatia declare allegiance to Venice 1075 Zvonimir is crowned king to the aristocracy
of Croatia by Pope Gregory VII




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40  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


Anjou, of the Neapolitan royal family, came
to the throne. Under the Angevin dynasty,
with Matthias Corvinus (1458–90), the
Hungarian-Croatian kingdom enjoyed long
periods of prosperity, competing with Venice
for possession of the coast and Adriatic
islands. However, a Turkish invasion was
imminent and after the battle of Kosovo
The Republic of Ragusa in a contemporary illustration Polje in 1389, the Turks conquered nearby
Bosnia and part of Serbia. In 1463, the Sultan
The Republic of Ragusa Mohammed II began to invade Croatia from
The story of the city of Dubrovnik, for a Bosnia. The Croatian army was defeated in
long time known as Ragusa, takes up an 1493 at the battle of Krbavsko Polje. In the
entire chapter in Croatia’s history. The city Battle of Mohács, on 29 August 1526, the
was founded by exiles from Epidaurum, Hungarian king, Louis II, died without heirs,
which had been destroyed by the Avars. It leaving the way clear for the Turks of
became an important trading port, thanks Suleyman II the Magnificent to conquer
to its central position in the Adriatic and almost all of Croatia and much of Hungary.
its safe mooring. In 1205, it came under
Venetian rule. This lasted for 150 years and
resulted in the city’s current appearance. In
1358, Hungary’s Louis I of Anjou defeated
the Venetians and reunited the Croatian
territories, but in 1382 Ragusa bought its
freedom by means of a treaty with the king
of Hungary. It became an independent
republic and flourished as a great power
and a thriving spiritual and cultural centre.
In 1808, Napoleon Bonaparte’s troops
entered the city and the republic came
to an end.
Turkish Domination
The Kingdom of Hungary went through
a long period of dynastic crisis when the
house of Arpad died out after the death of
Andrew III in 1301. There were numerous
contenders for the crown, provoking fierce
battles until 1308 when Charles Robert of Ottoman army in the Battle of Mohács

1301–08 The Arpad dynasty 1527 The kingdom of Hungary and
dies out with the death of Croatia passes to the Habsburgs
Andrew III. After lengthy Silver coin
controversy, Charles Robert commemorating the 1526 King Louis II dies in the Battle of
of Anjou comes to the throne Battle of Mohács Mohács against the Turks
1300 1350 1400 1450 1500
1409 After a costly war against Sigismund 1493 Croatian troops are
of Habsburg, Ladislaus of Anjou becomes defeated at Krbavsko Polje by
king of Hungary and Croatia. He sells Jacub, a Pasha of Bosnia
Dalmatia to Venice
1520 Marko Marulić writes Judita, the
first work written in Croat




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THE HIST OR Y OF CRO A TIA  41

Venice and the Purchase of Dalmatia
The wars with Venice over coastal Dalmatia
continued until 1409 when Ladislaus of
Anjou, the King of Naples, renounced all
rights over Dalmatia and sold it for 100,000
gold ducats to Venice. The towns and
islands stayed under Venetian rule from
1409 until 1797, when Venice surrendered
to Napoleon. As well as the territories
purchased by Venice, other towns wanted
to become Venetian possessions. They
were given a great deal of autonomy by
Venice, whose principal interest was in the
security of the ports and their defence, Osijek at the time of liberation from the Turks in 1687
building the ramparts which today
characterize these towns. During the Serb, Morlach and Bosnian refugees
wars of the early 18th century, Venice were brought in and integrated with the
conquered the whole of Dalmatia, except military garrisons. For some decades there
for Dubrovnik, then an independent was a truce, then the Turkish offensive
republic, and a small stretch of coast, against Vienna resumed, but the Turks
extending its borders to the Velebit passes, were pushed back, first in 1664 and
which still separate Croatia from Bosnia- again in 1683. The slow retreat of the
Herzegovina today. “infidels” from Croatia began at
this point. Croatia was liberated
Ties with the Habsburgs ten years later, while Bosnia
In 1527, Croatian and remained under the Turks. The
Hungarian nobles granted liberated areas became border
what remained of the lands and remained so until
kingdom to Archduke 1881. Vienna’s heavy taxation
Ferdinand of Habsburg, who and centralized rule caused
then concentrated all power discontent, but in 1670 a plan to
in the court, depriving the Fran Krsto Frankopan, detach Croatia from Hungary and
nobility of control of the cities beheaded in 1671 Vienna, devised by some of
and border areas. In 1578, he Croatia’s most influential families
established the Military Frontier (Vojna (including the Frankopans and Zrinskis)
Krajina) which was administered by (see p181), resulted in the beheading of
the military governor of Vienna. This Ban Petar Zrinski and Fran Krsto Franko pan
was to serve as a buffer zone against the and the other two rebel leaders in 1671,
advancing Turks. To populate this frontier, halting any attempt at revolt.

1566 Suleyman II besieges Siget, which, led by 1670 Attempted revolt
Nikola Zrinski, resists for five weeks by the Croatian princes 1718 Treaty of
Petar Zrinski and Krsto Passarowitz (Požarevac):
1573 Peasant revolt in Zagorje, against nobles Frankopan against Turkey loses Serbia and
and emperor, put down with much bloodshed Leopold of Austria part of inland Dalmatia
1550 1600 1650 1700 1750
1688 Pope Innocent XI promotes Holy League
Nikola against Turks; the battle of Petervaradino brings
Zrinski, 1592 The Turks capture Bihać and extend Turkish defeat and liberation of all of Croatia
Ban of the borders to the river Kupa, which still
Croatia separates Bosnia from Croatia 1683 Siege of Vienna by the Turks; Austria wins and
reconquers Buda and Pannonia




040-041_EW_Croatia.indd 41 20/10/16 12:31 pm

42  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


“the Illyrian”. Moving against this trend,
however, was the expansion of Hungary,
which tried to extend its influence in frontier
zones by imposing the use of the Magyar
language in administrative affairs and
schools. In the former Venetian territories,
on the other hand, pro-Italian nationalism,
with ideas of unification, was spreading
among the middle classes in the Dalmatian
Drawing showing the Congress of Vienna and Istrian cities. The Austrian government
opposed all these movements and
The Kingdom of the Illyrian continued to govern without compromise.
Provinces Indeed, they tried to introduce the teaching
The Napoleonic wars also affected Croatia, of German in schools. Any possible
where the Kingdom of Illyrian Provinces unification of Croatian territories was blocked
was established in 1809, governed by the by maintaining the Krajina, the military
French marshal, Marmont. This relatively border, and by customs barriers between
short period (five years) saw the intro- the various areas. Major public works, the
duction of important economic and legal expansion of the ports of Rijeka and Pula,
reforms that left a deep impression on which became a base for the Austrian fleet,
Croatian culture. With the mood of growing and a renewed road network were all made
nationalism in Europe, people felt inspired to promote Austrian interests.
to rebuild a united state. However, at the
Congress of Vienna (1815), Croatia From the Revolt of 1848 to
supported the expansionist aspirations Austro-Hungarian Reign
of Austria, which annexed all the Istrian After 1847, when the Sabor
and Dalmatian territories which had (parliament) of Zagreb managed
belonged to Venice, and the to proclaim Croatian as the
Republic of Dubrovnik. official language and
abolished feudalism, the
The Illyrian Movement revolt of the Hungarian
Croatian aspirations were people and the hopes
apparent in movements which aroused by the Italian
also influenced and politicized the revolution in 1848 also
newly emerging working class, a involved Croatian political
product of early industrialization. The movements. The failure to
origins of this nationalist trend can understand the Hungarian rebels
be dated to the 1834 writings of Ban Josip Jelačić, a Croatian and ambiguous Austrian
Ljudevit Gaj (1809–72), known as national hero policy forced the Ban, Josip

1830 Ljudevit Gaj publishes
1809 Napoleon Essential Rules of Croatian-Slavic
Bonaparte founds Spelling, introducing to the Ljudevit Gaj, head
kingdom of Napoleon script the signs missing from of the Croatian
Illyrian Provinces Bonaparte the Latin alphabet national revival
1800 1810 1820 1830 1840 1850
1832 Janko Drašković 1847 The Illyrian 1848–50 Hungarian uprising
1815 Treaty of publishes Dissertation Movement gains majority against Austria: Vienna
Vienna: Austria is against Hungarian and in Croatian Parliament and abolishes local autonomy,
allotted all the Austrian supremacy, proclaims Croat the dissolves Sabor and makes
territories of the introduces idea of Illyria as official language German the official language
Republic of Venice the “mother” of Croats




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THE HIST OR Y OF CRO A TIA  43


Jelačić, into war against Hungary, now rule, sparking
ruled by rebels. The Austrian monarchy was reaction from
saved but then became, if anything, even the Kingdom
more keen on centralization. In 1867, Franz of Serbia, which
Joseph, the Austrian emperor, modified the had been
structure of the state and established the established in
Austro-Hungarian empire. Hungary was 1882 after the
granted autonomy and a corridor to the expulsion of
sea. Rijeka and the hinterland became the Turks. The
part of the Magyar state. However, under Serbian ruling
pressure from the Sabor, in 1868 the classes aspired
Austrian emperor granted Croatia the to unify the
status of “a nation with territory within southern Slavs Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer, founder
the Austro-Hungarian Empire”, and Zagreb and intended of the University of Zagreb
became its cultural and political centre. to extend their
In 1863 the bishop of Đakovo, Josip Juraj territories towards Dalmatia and Slavonia,
Strossmayer, founded the Croatian Academy which they regarded as Serbian land.
of the Arts and Sciences and the University In the last decade of the 19th century a
(1874), the first in the Balkans. political battle developed in Dalmatia
Political contention continued to develop and Istria. It formed between a
along different lines. Some people dreamed movement supported by the bourgeoisie
of a confederation of states within the in the cities formerly under Venetian
Habsburg monarchy, others felt that the rule, which pushed for autonomy, and
moment had come to unite the Slav other groups which aimed at a union
peoples in one state, and lastly, others felt with Serbia. Austria, which as always
it was time for Croatian independence. took advantage of these internal
Tension increased in 1878 when Bosnia controversies, did not concede any
and Herzegovina came under Austrian form of autonomy.
World War I
In 1914, with the assassination of
Archduke Franz Ferdinand in Sarajevo,
World War I broke out, which caused
the dissolution of the Habsburg
Empire. Croatians paid dearly for their
involvement in the war, as did many
other countries, but finally the Croatian
population was able to free itself
Flag of the Hungarian-Croatian Imperial regiment from foreign rule.

1881 Vienna dissolves
the Vojna Krajina
Ljudevit Gaj, head 1860 Austrian and those areas are 1904 Antun and Stjepan 1914 Assassination
of the Croatian emperor reinstates part of the Croatian Radić found the People’s in Sarajevo; World
national revival the Sabor state again Peasant Party War I begins
1860 1870 1880 1890 1900 1910
1908 Austria annexes Bosnia 1912 Slavko Cuvaj
1868 Birth of United and Herzegovina proclaimed Ban of
Kingdom of Croatia and Croatia, dissolves the
Slovenia supported by Sabor and abolishes
Emperor Franz Joseph Emperor Franz Joseph the Constitution





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44  INTRODUCING CRO A TIA


in an attempt to suppress the uprising
and placate the discontented, in 1939 the
government of Belgrade established the
Banovina of Croatia within the Kingdom
of Yugoslavia. However, a few days later
World War II began.
World War II
Initially, Yugoslavia supported the Axis,
but a military revolt removed the king
of Yugoslavia, and the country was then
invaded by Nazi troops. A kingdom of
Croatia was established, which was to
be governed by Aimone of Savoy, but in
reality it was an independent state led by
Assassination of King Alexander in Marseilles (1934) Pavelić. Italy took control of the islands and
cities of the Dalmatian coast. Resistance
From the State of Slovenes, gained ground in all of Yugoslavia led by
Croats and Serbs to the Kingdom the Communist Party and its chief, Marshal
of Yugoslavia Tito: from 1941 to 1945 Croatia was
Croatia proclaimed independence in 1918, bloodied by war and internal conflicts that
but a few months later agreed to be part of caused hundreds of thousands of deaths.
a state formed by Slovenes and Serbs under
the Serbian dynasty of Karađorđević. The Marshal Tito
Treaty of Rapallo (1920) allotted Istria, Zadar, At the end of the war the state of Yugoslavia
the islands of Cres, Lošinj, Lastovo and was reunited, and regained land granted
Palagruža to Italy, followed in 1924 by Rijeka. to Italy after World War I (see p51), as well
The discontent of Croatians led many to join as the area of
the People’s Peasant Party, led by Stjepan Prekomurje and
Radić until he was shot and fatally wounded a part of
in parliament in Belgrade in 1928. The revolts Baranja, which
which broke out in Croatia were repressed were both
and in 1929 King Alexander abolished the Hungarian at
constitution and then established the the time.
Kingdom of Yugoslavia. The assassination of In 1948, the
the king in Marseilles (1934) by a member break between
of a Macedonian revolutionary group the Yugoslav
working with the Ustaše (Croatian fascists), Communist Tito with his wife and son in a photo
led by Ante Pavelić, increased tension, and Party and the from 1927

1948 Yugoslavia breaks
1919 Treaty of Paris: a country of away from Soviet influence
Slovenes, Croats and Serbs is 1934 King Alexander is and begins policy of
created, which later becomes the killed in Marseilles; his non-alignment
kingdom of Yugoslavia cousin Paul takes power
1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970
1929 King Alexander 1939–41 World War II:
Karađorđević proclaims a Yugoslavia is conquered 1947–48 Exodus of nearly all the
dictatorship. Croat Ante Pavelić and divided, and Croatia Italians from Istria and Dalmatia
founds terrorist organization of nominally becomes
Ustaše to fight the Serbs a kingdom under 1945 The Yugoslav Federal
Aimone of Savoy state is founded




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THE HIST OR Y OF CRO A TIA  45


Soviet Union led Marshal Tito to employ a
policy of mediation and neutrality between
the opposing inter national factions of the
Cold War. Tito held together the country’s
various ethnic groups (with great difficulty)
and these ties showed signs of strain
after he died in 1980. The reform of the
constitution, aimed at weakening Serbia’s
dominance over the other states, did not
alter the resentment of the Croats and Bombed houses in Vukovar during the war of 1991–95
Slovenes who sought support for opposition
to the regime in religion and nationalism. The Independent State of
Croatia
The Dissolution of the Socialist Five years later the land occupied by
Republic of Yugoslavia the Serbs was liberated by the Croatian
The fall of the Berlin Wall (November 1989) army and the Erdut Agreement (1995)
and the break-up of the Soviet Union at the sanctioned reunification, although the
end of 1991 convinced the governments of disputed territories (Slavonia and Krajina)
Slovenia, Croatia (under its first president, were overseen by the UN until 1998.
Franjo Tuđman) and Macedonia that they Croatia joined the World Trade
should dissolve federal ties and proclaim Organization and elections held in
independence, after a referendum which December 2000 voted in a coalition
was won by a wide margin by the of democratic parties. As a result steps
secessionists (May 1991). However, a were taken for Croatia’s entry into the
Serb faction, supported by the Yugoslav European Union. In March 2002, the
People’s Army (JNA) from Belgrade, Italian bank, UniCredito, bought the
stirred up rebellion and war broke out. important Croatian bank, the Zagrebačka
In Slovenia the war lasted only ten days, Bank, bringing it into the European circuit.
but the battle in Croatia was prolonged. However, in 2005, after failing to hand
Under the pretext of defending over an indicted general, Croatia
the Serbs, parts of Slavonia and was accused of not co-operating
Baranja were occupied by the fully with the international war
JNA, and in Krajina the Serbian crimes tribunal at the Hague
Republic of Krajina was created and negotiations for entry to
with Knin as its capital. A fifth the EU stalled. Soon after, the
of Croatia fell to Serb soldiers, general was captured and talks
and the city of Dubrovnik resumed, and eventually, Croatia
was held under a seven- Kolinda Grabar-Kitarović, elected joined the European Union on
month siege. president in 2015 1 July 2013.

2000 On 7 2009 The accession
1980 President Tito 1998 The restitution February Stipe of Croatia to NATO
dies and conflict of Slavonia and Mesić is elected
between the various Krajina reunites a President of the 2013 Croatia joins
nationalities begins now free Croatia Republic EU on 1 July
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020

1991 Slovenia and Croatia abandon 1995 Erdut Agreement: 2015 Kolinda Grabar-
Republic, Croatian land inhabited by Serbs Slavonia and Krajina are Kitarović is elected Croatia’s
is occupied by Yugoslav People’s Army: administered by the first woman president
war between Serbia and Croatia begins United Nations
2010 Ivo Josipović elected President




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

CROATIA


AREA BY AREA





Croatia at a Glance 48–49

Istria and the Kvarner Area 50–89
Dalmatia 90–153
Zagreb 154–171
Central Croatia 172–183
Slavonia and Baranja 184–201

The Northern Counties 202–219










































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48  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Croatia at a Glance

Croatia is a fascinating country with great ethnic, historical
and architectural diversity as well as varied topography.
The north had close ties with the former Austrian empire,
and the bell towers alongside 19th-century Baroque
churches and buildings have a Viennese look. The eastern
side marks the start of the Hungarian plain with broad
rivers and houses with overhanging roofs. The Adriatic
coast is quite different, with its indented coastline fringed Varaždin
with lovely islands. The coastal cities reflect the centuries- St Mark’s Square
old Venetian culture with churches, monasteries, palaces (pp160–61), with its Gothic THE NORTHERN
COUNTIES
church of the same name, is
and forts testifying to the brilliance of the late Middle Ages the heart of the Gornji Grad (see pp202–19)
and the greatness of the Renaissance period. district in Zagreb and the
city’s oldest square.
Zagreb Virovitica
ZAGREB
(see pp154–71) CENTRAL
CROATIA
(see pp172–83) SLAVONIA AND Osijek
Karlovac BARANJA
Sisak
(see pp184–201)
Rijeka
Đakovo
Poreč Ogulin Slavonski Brod
ISTRIA AND THE
KVARNER AREA
Barban (see pp50–89)
Senj
Euphrasian Basilica in Poreč Pula
(pp56–7) has marvellous
mosaics, some of the best-
preserved examples of Jablanac
Byzantine art in Croatia. Amphitheatre, Pula
(pp64–5) Lički Osik
Otrič
Posedarje
Plitvice Lakes National Zadar
Park (pp88–9) is one of
nature’s natural wonders DALMATIA
with 16 lakes surrounded (see pp90–153)
by woods. The cascading
waterfalls create an Šibenik
impressive display
of light and colour. Sinj

Kornati National Park Split
(pp100–1) is made up of
over 150 islands with Makarska
underwater caves and
sheltered coves. The park
covers an area of about
300 sq km (115 sq miles) Ploče
and is surrounded by
clear seas. These wooded,
rocky islands present an
unforgettable sight.
Dubrovnik


Pavement cafés in Varaždin, once a seat of the Croatian Parliament



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