(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

DUBROVNIK  149


P Fort of St John P Big Fountain of Onofrio which opens out immediately
Tvrđava sv. Ivana Velika Onofrijeva fontana after the Pile gate. It was
Aquarium: Tel (020) 323 978. This is one of the best-known built in 1438–44 by the
Open Jun–Sep: 9am–9pm daily; Oct– monuments in the city. Neapolitan architect Onofrio
May: 9am–1pm Mon–Sat. & Maritime It stands in the square de la Cava, who was also
Museum: Tel (020) 323 904. Open Apr– responsible for
Oct: 9am–6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Mar: designing the city’s
9am–4pm Tue–Sun. &
water supply system.
A chain once helped to defend He decided to draw
the harbour, stretching from this the water from the
fort to the island in front and then River Dubrovačka for
across to the Tower of St Luke this purpose. The
(Kula sv. Luke) along the walls. imposing fountain
The upper areas of the fort once had two storeys,
house the Maritime Museum but the upper level
(Pomorski muzej), where the was destroyed in the
seafaring history of Dubrovnik earthquake of 1667.
is told through model ships, Tucked between
standards, prints, diaries the city walls and the
and portraits. Franciscan monastery
On the lower level is an is the Church of St
aquarium (akvarij) with an Saviour (Sv. Spas). The
assortment of Mediterranean façade of the church is
marine life, including sea horses, an example of Venetian-
symbol of the institution. At the Dalmatian Renaissance
top is the circular Bokar Fort architecture, a style
(Tvrđava Bokar), built by dating from after the
Michelozzo Michelozzi. The Big Fountain of Onofrio (1438–44) earthquake of 1520.
Dubrovnik Town Centre
1 Walls q Church of St Blaise Key
2 Pile Gate w Rector’s Palace Street-by-Street
3 Minčeta Tower e Cathedral and Treasury pp146–7
4 Ploče Gate r Dominican Monastery
5 Fort of St John t Dubrovnik Cable Car
6 Big Fountain of Onofrio 0 metres 150
7 Franciscan Monastery 150
8 Stradun (Placa) SPLIT, ZAGREBAČ K A 0 yards
SIBENIK
9 Square of the Loggia PUT IZA GRADA
0 Sponza Palace Minčeta Dubrovnik
Tower Cable Car
Ferry port M. PERIĆA HVARSKA
2 km (1.2 miles)
Bus station Franciscan Revelin
2 km (1.2 miles) Monastery PALMOTIĆEVA PELINE Fort
Walls ISPOD ANTUNINSKA Dominican FRANA SUPILA
BRSALJE NALJEŠKOVIĆEVA KUNIĆEVA Monastery
Pile Gate St Saviour’s PETI LOVRIJENCI BOŠKOVIĆEVA Ploče Gate
Church PRIJEKO ŽUDIOSKA KOVAČKA SVETOG DOMINIKA
M. GETALDIĆEVA ŠIROKA Synagogue Sponza North
Rosary
Big Fountain STRADUN (PLACA) Church
of Onofrio
House
USKA
Bokar Fort ZA ROKOM Marin Držić IZMEDU OD POLAČA LUŽA Palace Pier Old
Port
Rupe Church of St Blaise
Museum SV. JOSIPA Orthodox M. KABOGA
O D DOMINA N. BOŽIDAREVIĆA GUNDULI- Rector’s South
Church
Pier
OD RUPA
Palace
ĆEVA
POLJANA
MARIJE ŠTROSMAJEROVA D. RANJINE Cathedral POLJANA KNEZA DAMJANA Fort of
SV.
St John
MARINA
JUDE
and Treasury DRŽIĆA OD PUSTIJERNE
Jesuit Porporela
Church ANDRIJIĆA BRAĆE
POLJANA POBIJANA
R. BOŠKOVIĆA ISP OD MIRA
OD KAŠTELA OD MARGARITE
For keys to symbols see back flap
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150  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


by draining and filling in the
marshy channel that separated
the island of Ragusa from the
mainland. The street was paved
in 1468 and a series of stone
houses was built after the
earthquake of 1667. Today the
street is lined with busy bars
and cafés, and is a popular place
for locals and visitors to gather
in the evening.

P Square of the Loggia
Luža
This square, the political and
economic heart of Dubrovnik,
is situated at the eastern end
of Stradun and surrounded
by important buildings. Today
it is still a popular meeting
place, in particular around
Orlando’s Column, which
was built by the sculptor
Antonio Ragusino (1418).
On the eastern side of the
square is a Clock Tower
(Gradski zvonik). Repair work
The lovely late Romanesque cloister, Franciscan monastery carried out in 1929 restored
a 15th-century look to the
Clock Tower. The nearby
R Franciscan Monastery which has religious works of art Loggia of the Bell, with four
Franjevački samostan and objects belonging to the bells, dates from 1463. The
Placa 2. Tel (020) 321 410. order. Instruments from the bells were rung to call the
Open summer: 9am–6pm daily; pharmaceutical laboratory are citizens to gather whenever
winter: 9am–2pm daily. Franciscan kept here. danger threatened.
Museum: Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm Next to this stands the Main
daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–2pm daily. & P Stradun (Placa) Guard House, rebuilt in 1706
Construction of the monastery The wide street that crosses the after the earthquake of 1667.
began in 1317 and was city from east to west between It has a large Baroque doorway,
completed in the following two city gates is known as similar to a city gate, and is
century. It was almost entirely Stradun or Placa. It was enlivened on the first floor by
rebuilt after the earthquake in constructed in the 12th century the Gothic mullioned windows,
1667, but the south door (1499), reminiscent of the earlier
in Venetian Gothic decorated building which was built in
with a Pietà in the lunette, and the late 15th century.
a 15th-century marble pulpit The Small Fountain of Onofrio
escaped damage. The cloister, (Mala Onofrijeva česma), dating
which was completely undam- from 1438, stands alongside
aged by the earthquake, reveals the Guard House.
elements of the Romanesque
and the Gothic style and has a P Sponza Palace
fountain from the 15th century Palača Sponza
in the centre. Tel (020) 321 032. Open May–Oct:
One side of the cloister 9am–10pm daily; Nov–Apr:
leads to the pharmacy (Stara 10am–3pm daily.
ljekarna), in use since 1317, To the left of the square is
where alembics, mortars, Sponza Palace. Remodelled in
measuring apparatus and 1516–22, it has an elegantly
beautifully decorated jars are sculpted Renaissance loggia
displayed on the old shelves. on the ground floor and a
The capitular room of beautiful Venetian Gothic
the monastery houses the three-mullioned window on
Franciscan Museum (Muzej the first floor, evidence of its
Franjevačkog samostana), Stradun, the main street of Dubrovnik 14th-century origins, and a
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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DUBROVNIK  151


statue of St Blaise on the upper
floor. It was the Mint in the
14th century and now houses
the State Archives.
R Church of St Blaise
Crkva sv. Vlaha
Loža. Tel (020) 323 887.
Open 8am–noon, 4:30–7pm daily.
St Blaise was rebuilt in the early
decades of the 18th century
according to a 17th-century
design and contains many
Baroque works of art. Rector’s Palace, built in the 15th century as the administrative seat
On the main altar stands a
statue of the patron saint, Blaise. (Kulturno-povijesni muzej), from the 16th–18th centuries
Produced in the 15th century in which contains 15 collections of decorate the side altars, while
gold-plated silver, it depicts the historic items created in art and an Assumption by Titian (c.1552)
saint holding a model of the city craft workshops throughout dominates the main altar.
in the Middle Ages. Europe between the 16th and Alongside the church is the
20th centuries. On the ground Cathedral Treasury (Riznica
floor an authentic jail space, Katedrale), famous for its
court, notary and archives have collection of about 200
been preserved and presented. reliquaries. It includes the arm
Coins, medals, stamps and of St Blaise which dates from
measures, ancient weapons and the 13th century, and a Holy
numerous other works of art as Cross which contains a
well as an inventory of the state fragment of the cross on which
pharmacy “Domus Christi” are Jesus was said to have been
on display on the mezzanine crucified. The tondo Virgin of
floor. On the first floor, rooms the Chair is thought to have
contain valuable objects from been painted by Raphael
the 16th–18th centuries. himself, and is a copy of the
Also of great interest are masterpiece which is now
the portraits of illustrious in Florence.
personalities who were born The treasury also has an
or lived in Dubrovnik, whose extraordinary collection of
Baroque façade of the church of history is told through their sacred objects in gold, including
St Blaise heraldic coats of arms. During a pitcher and basin in gold and
the Festival of Dubrovnik silver with decoration that
P Rector’s Palace concerts are held in the illustrates the flora and fauna
Knežev dvor atmospheric internal courtyard. of the area around Dubrovnik.
Pred Dvorom 3. Tel (020) 321 422. Next door is the 1863
Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm daily; Neo-Renaissance Town Hall
Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm daily. & = ^ (Vïjećnica), designed by Emilio
The Rector’s Palace was for Vecchietti. It is also the home
centuries the seat of the most of the café Gradska Kavana
important government (see p241) and the Civic Theatre.
institutions of the Dubrovnik
Republic. It housed the Upper R Cathedral and Treasury
and Lower Council, as well as Velika Gospa
the rector’s quarters and rooms Kneza Damjana Jude 1. Open Apr–
for meetings and audiences. The Oct: 8am–5pm Mon–Sat, 11am–5pm
building was constructed in Sun; Nov–Mar: 8am–noon, 3–5pm
the early 15th century on the Mon–Sat, 11am–noon, 3–5pm Sun.
site of a medieval fortress, and Cathedral Treasury: Tel (020) 323 459.
designed by the Italian architect Open same times as the cathedral. &
Onofrio de la Cava. In 1465 the The cathedral was built after
portico by Petar Martinov from the earthquake of 1667 by the
Milan was added. The Gothic Roman architects Andrea
works are by Juraj Dalmatinac. Buffalini and Paolo Andreotti.
The rooms of the palace Inside are three aisles enclosed
house the interesting Cultural by three apses. Paintings by The great dome of Dubrovnik’s Baroque
Historical Museum Italian and Dalmatian artists cathedral




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152  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


Dubrovnik Cable Car b Elaphite Islands
Dubrovačka žičara
Lower station, Petra Krešimira IV bb. Tel Map F6. * 2,000. g from
(020) 414 321. Open Feb, Mar & Nov: Dubrovnik. n Dubrovnik regional
9am–5pm daily; Apr & Oct: 9am–8pm tourist office (020) 324 999.
daily; May: 9am–9pm daily; Jun–Aug: Lying to the north of Dubrovnik,
9am–midnight daily; Sep: 9am–10pm the Elaphite Islands (Elafitski
daily; Dec & Jan: 9am–4pm daily. & otoci) can be reached from
∑ dubrovnikcablecar.com
Dubrovnik by motorboat. There
Destroyed in 1991, the cable car are several daily crossings. The
that connects Dubrovnik City islands were described by the
Walls and Mount Srđ is natural historian Pliny the Elder,
operational again. The who named them after the
route takes three and fallow deer then found here.
a half minutes, and Only three of the islands are
offers wonderful views. inhabited: Šipan, Lopud and
Koločep, while Jakljan is
Environs devoted to farming.
The interior at the church of St Dominic, The island of Lokrum, Characteristics common
inside the monastery 700 m (2,296 ft) across to the islands are the
the water from Dubrovnik, woods of maritime
R Dominican Monastery is a nature reserve. pines and cypresses in
Dominikanski samostan Bijeli fratri The first people to settle the uncultivated areas
Od sv. Dominika 4. Tel (020) 321 423. on the island were the and beautiful beaches and
Open May–Oct: 9am–6pm; Nov–Apr: Benedictines, who founded bays frequented by
9am–5pm. & an abbey here in 1023. pleasure boats. The
Building began in 1315 and it This was rebuilt in the A statue in the islands have long been
soon became clear that because 14th century, but later Arboretum in popular with the
of the size of the complex, the destroyed by the Trsteno aristocracy of Dubrovnik,
city walls would have to be earthquake of 1667. In who built villas here.
enlarged. The monastery 1859, Archduke Maximilian of Some islands had monasteries
was later rebuilt after the Habsburg built a palace here which were suppressed with
earthquake of 1667. and renovated the cloister which the arrival of French troops in
A long flight of steps with a later became the Natural 1808. Many of the churches
stone balustrade leads up to History Museum. date from the pre-Romanesque
the church. The door, the In Trsteno, 20 km (12 miles) period, but few, however, are
work of Bonino of Milan, is northwest of Dubrovnik, is an still intact.
decorated with a Romanesque Arboretum. This was begun in
statue of St Dominic. The 1502 in the park around a villa Koločep
interior has a wide single nave built by Ivan Gučetić. The park This is the nearest island to
and, hanging from the central has the layout of a Renaissance Dubrovnik and for this reason
arch, a splendid gilded panel garden with grottoes and ruins. has been a summer retreat
(Crucifix and Symbols of the There are several Renais sance since the 16th century for its
Evangelists) by Paolo Veneziano summer houses around citizens. Most of the island is
(14th century). Dubrovnik, including the Villa covered in maritime pines and
The various rooms of the Stay in Rijeka Dubrovačka. subtropical undergrowth.
monastery, arranged around
the Gothic cloister by Maso di
Bartolomeo (15th century),
house the Dominican Museum
(Muzej Dominikanskog
samostana). It contains an
extraordinary collection of
works from the so-called
“Dubrovnik school”, including a
triptych and an Annunciation
by Niccolò Ragusino, from the
16th century, and works from
the Venetian school, including
St Blaise, St Mary Magdalene, the
Angel Tobias and the Purchaser
by Titian, as well as precious
reliquaries and objects in gold
and silver. Island of Lokrum in front of Dubrovnik, a protected nature reserve
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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D ALM A TIA  153


housed in the 16th-century
Rector’s Palace. The works
of the painter Vlaho Bukovac
are especially fine.
At the end of the seafront
is the church of Our Lady
of Snow (Gospa Snježna)
and a Franciscan monastery,
both from the end of the
15th cen tury. On the hilltop
stands the Račić Mausoleum
built by Ivan Meštrović (see
p163) in 1922.

m Konavle
Map F6. n Zidine 6, Cavtat,
(020) 478 025. ∑ visit.cavtat-
Šunj beach on the southeast coast of Lopud, one of the Elaphite islands
konavle.com
The churches of St Anthony n Cavtat The area southeast of Cavtat
and St Nicholas have pre- Map F6. * 2,500. 4 from Dubrovnik, occupies a narrow piece of
Romanesque origins, while the (020) 478 065. @ from Dubrovnik. land between the sea and
Parish Church dates from the n Zidine 6, (020) 478 025. the mountains of Bosnia-
15th century. _ Summer in Cavtat, Epidaurus Herzegovina. Its name derives
Festival. ∑ visit.cavtat-konavle.com from the channels (canalis)
Lopud which collected the water to
The island, measuring 4.6 sq km Cavtat is the Croatian name supply the aqueduct – of which
(1.7 sq miles), has a fertile valley for Civitas Vetus, the site of the some traces remain – for the
sheltered from the cold winds Roman town of Epidaurum, Roman town of Epidaurum.
by two ranges of hills. Most of destroyed by the Avars in The hilly areas are covered
the inhabitants live in Lopud, the 7th century (occasional in vineyards and olive groves.
a village in a bay. The two forts, excavations have revealed the The small villages maintain the
now in ruins, date from the remains of a theatre, several old customs and traditional
16th century and the Franciscan tombs and parts of a road). costumes are still worn by
monastery is from 1483. The The beauty of the area, the the inhabitants. Konavle
monastery church, St Mary of beaches, the luxuriant vegeta- was heavily damaged by
Spilica (Sv. Marija od Špilica), tion and the monuments bombing in 1991.
contains a polyptych by Pietro attract many visitors to the This area is also renowned
di Giovanni (1520), a triptych by present-day village. for its excellent cuisine and
Nikola Božidarević, a painting by The Baltazar Bogišić there are numerous restaurants.
Leandro da Bassano, a triptych Collection, assembled and One of the best known is
by Gerolamo di Santacroce donated by the scholar and Konavoski Dvori, housed
and a carved choir from the jurist of the 19th century, in a watermill near the waterfalls
15th century. whose birthplace this is, is of the River Ljuta.
Šunj, in the southeast,
draws visitors because of its
sandy beach, but the church
is also worth visiting for its
many works of art, including
a painting by Palma il Giovane
and a polyptych (1452) by
Matej Junčić.
Šipan
This is the largest of the Elaphite
Islands (15.5 sq km/6 sq miles)
and there are two towns. In
Šipanska Luka stands the
pre-Romanesque church of
St Michael and the ruins of a
Benedictine monastery. In
Suđurađ there is a castle and
the ruins of a bishop’s palace. The pretty seafront and port of Cavtat




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Cro a tia area b y area  155

ZAGREB


the capital of Croatia, Zagreb is also the heart of the political, economic and
cultural life of the country. Surrounded by woods and parks, the city lies
between the slopes of Mount Medvednica to the north and the river Sava to
the south. Located at the centre of continental Croatia, this Central european
city constitutes a meeting point between eastern and western europe.

The political scientist Max Weber once the Croat-Hungarian King Bela IV.
declared that the quality of life in a city This granted various economic and
could be measured by the number of its administrative privileges to the
cultural institutions. Zagreb has over inhabitants. From the 16th century
20 museums, 10 theatres, 350 libraries, onwards Gradec was also where the Ban
a university, and lively programmes of – the governor of Croatia delegated by
artistic and cultural events. This is not the Hungarian kingdom – and the Croat
just because Zagreb is the capital (it has parliament carried out their business and
only been the capital since 1991), but where Croat nobles met to govern this
is also due to the leading cultural and turbulent territory. The two towns were
political role that Zagreb has played both fortified with ramparts, towers,
over the centuries. moats and gates, and separated by the
Zagreb was originally two separate Medveščak stream. The stream was often
medieval towns. Two settlements were the site of violent clashes between
built on two adjacent hilltops: Kaptol, Gradec and Kaptol, and that time is
the centre of religious power and a vividly recalled by the street called
bishopric from 1094, and Gradec (now the Bridge of Blood (Krvavi most).
part of Gornji grad). In 1242, with the In 1880, a terrible earthquake
proclamation of a “Golden Bull”, Gradec struck the city and many of the major
was given the title of royal free city by monuments date from after this time.



























Colourful Dolac market, held in the square of the same name
The famous polychromatic tiled roof of the Church of St Mark



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156  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Zagreb

The city is divided into two large sectors; the Old Town (Gornji
grad or Upper Town), which includes the two districts of 0 metres 200
Gradec and Kaptol, situated in the hills, and the modern area 0 yards 200
(Donji grad or Lower Town) on the plain. The large square MEDVEDGRADSKA
dedicated to the Croat governor Jelačić (Trg bana Jelačića) is ILIRSKI N O V A V E S DEGENOVA
TRG
where the upper and lower towns meet. The Old Town is home D U B R A V K I N P U T MIKLOUŠIĆEVA
to the main centres of religious, political and administrative VRAZOVO ŠETALIŠTE ZVONARNIĆKA
RIBNJAK
power. The more modern part developed after 1830 around DEMETROVA
a U-shaped series of parks and open spaces (known as the
“green horseshoe”). The major museums, including the BASARIČEKOVA
Ethnographic Museum, Mimara Museum, Gallery of Old GORNJI GRAD OPATIČKA K A P T O L
VISOKA
Masters and Modern Gallery, are all located here, as well as TUŠKANAC RADIĆEVA TKALČIĆEVA
the National Theatre. To the south of a series of gardens with MESNIČKA MARKOV
sculptures lies the Botanical Garden. Around Jelačić Square TRG OPATOVINA
M AT O Š E VA CIRILOMETODSKA KAMENITA
there are plenty of cafés with summer terraces.
JEZUITSKI
KAPTOL
TRG
Sights at a Glance STRELJAČKA KATARININ SKALINSKA
TRG KRVAVI
Museums and Galleries D E Ž M A N O V A STROSSMAYEROVO MOST BAKAČEVA
6 Zagreb City Museum 9 Church of St Mark ŠE TA LI ŠT E RADIĆEVA DOLAC
7 Croatian Natural History Museum r Church of SS. Cyril POD ZID O M PALMOTIĆ E VA
8 Meštrović Atelier and Methodius TOMIĆEVA VLA ŠKA
w Croatian History Museum y Church of St Catherine ILICA CESARČEVA
TRG
e Croatian Museum of Naive Art ILICA ILICA BANA JELAČIĆA KU R ELČE VA
i Museum of Arts and Crafts Palaces and Other Buildings
o Mimara Museum 2 Archbishop’s Palace PRERADOVIĆEV JURIŠIĆEVA
p Ethnographic Museum 5 Stone Gate TRG BOGOVIĆEVA MARIĆEV PRAŠKA
s Art Pavilion 0 Parliament Building FRANKOPANSKA GUNDULIĆEVA GAJEVA PROLAZ PETRINJSKA
d Gallery of Old Masters pp170–71 q Viceroy’s Palace M E D U L I Ć E V A DALMATINSKA VARŠAVSKA MIŠKECOV
f Modern Gallery t Tower of Lotrščak TESLINA
PROLAZ
g Archaeological Museum u Croatian National Theatre
h Museum of Contemporary Art s Art Pavilion MASARYKOVA PRERADOVIĆEVA BERISLAVIĆEVA ĐORĐIĆEVA
Churches Parks and Gardens PRILAZ GJURE DEŽELIĆA ZRINJEVAC
TRG
1 Cathedral of the Assumption a Botanical Garden of the Faculty MARŠALA TITA
of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Science DONJI GRAD BOŠKOVIĆEVA
3 Church of St Francis j Maksimir Park
4 Church of St Mary k Mirogoj Cemetery KLAIĆEVA HEBRANGOVA
K O VA Č I Ć E VA STROSSMAYEROV
ROOSEVELTOV TRG MATIČINA
TRG
TRG BRAĆE PRERADOVIĆEVA KATANČIĆEVA
MAŽURANIĆ
Greater Zagreb PERKOVČEVA TRENKOVA HATZOVA
Granešina VUKOTINOVIĆEVA GUNDULIĆEVA ŽERJAVIĆEVA
MARULIĆEV SVAČIĆEV
Sesvete TRG TRG PETRINJSKA
Maksimir GAJEVA
Črnomerec S A V S K A KUMIČIĆEVA HAULIKOVA TOMISLAVOV
ZAGREB TRG
Zagreb MIHANOVIĆEVA
VODNIKOVA STARČEVIĆEV
Jarun TRG
BOTANIČKI VRT MIRAMARSKA GRGUROVA
Lake Zagreb
Sava
Jarun C R NAT K O VA
A1 Novi Zagreb
Botinec A3
0 km 3
30 Zagreb
0 miles 3
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7
156-157_EW_Croatia.indd 156 20/10/16 12:29 pm

ZA GREB  157


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D2. * 780,000.
n Trg bana Jelačića 11,
(01) 481 40 51. _ Smotra
N O V A V E S DEGENOVA folklora, Folklore Festival (Jul);
ILIRSKI
D U B R A V K I N P U T MIKLOUŠIĆEVA ZVONARNIĆKA Zagreb Summer Festival.
Zagrebačke ljetne večeri,
TRG
VRAZOVO ŠETALIŠTE
MEDVEDGRADSKA
∑ infozagreb.hr
DEMETROVA
RIBNJAK
Transport
k at Velika Gorica, Pleso,
(01) 626 52 22, 17 km (10 miles) SE.
£ Glavni Kolodvor, (060) 333 444.
TUŠKANAC VISOKA MARKOV RADIĆEVA TKALČIĆEVA @ Avenija Marina Držića 4, (060)
K A P T O L
MESNIČKA
BASARIČEKOVA
313 333.
GORNJI GRAD OPATIČKA
M AT O Š E VA TRG KAPTOL
CIRILOMETODSKA KAMENITA
OPATOVINA
JEZUITSKI
TRG
STRELJAČKA
KATARININ SKALINSKA
TRG KRVAVI
MOST
STROSSMAYEROVO ŠE TA LI ŠT E RADIĆEVA DOLAC BAKAČEVA
POD ZID O M PALMOTIĆ E VA
D E Ž M A N O V A
TOMIĆEVA VLA ŠKA
ILICA CESARČEVA
KU R ELČE VA Zagreb skyline
ILICA TRG
ILICA BANA JELAČIĆA
FRANKOPANSKA GUNDULIĆEVA PRERADOVIĆEV BOGOVIĆEVA MARIĆEV PRAŠKA
JURIŠIĆEVA
TRG
PROLAZ
DALMATINSKA VARŠAVSKA MIŠKECOV TESLINA GAJEVA PETRINJSKA
PROLAZ
M E D U L I Ć E V A
MASARYKOVA PRERADOVIĆEVA BERISLAVIĆEVA ĐORĐIĆEVA Getting Around
PRILAZ GJURE DEŽELIĆA
ZRINJEVAC The districts of the Old Town,
TRG Kaptol and Gronji grad, are mostly
MARŠALA TITA DONJI GRAD pedestrian areas, as is the central
BOŠKOVIĆEVA Jelačić square, which is served by
tram routes joining the eastern
HEBRANGOVA
KLAIĆEVA and western parts of the city
K O VA Č I Ć E VA STROSSMAYEROV (see pp280–81). The Jarun sailing
ROOSEVELTOV TRG MATIČINA
TRG centre, near the river, can also be
TRG BRAĆE PRERADOVIĆEVA KATANČIĆEVA
MAŽURANIĆ reached by tram. Buses going to
Novi Zagreb, on the other side
TRENKOVA HATZOVA of the River Sava (where there is
VUKOTINOVIĆEVA GUNDULIĆEVA ŽERJAVIĆEVA a racetrack, exhibition area and
PERKOVČEVA
MARULIĆEV SVAČIĆEV PETRINJSKA the Museum of Contemporary
TRG
TRG
S A V S K A KUMIČIĆEVA HAULIKOVA GAJEVA Art) leave from the main
rail station.
TOMISLAVOV
TRG
MIHANOVIĆEVA
VODNIKOVA STARČEVIĆEV
TRG
BOTANIČKI VRT MIRAMARSKA GRGUROVA Zagreb
Key
C R NAT K O VA
Major sight
Places of interest
Pedestrian zone
Funicular line
For keys to symbols see back flap
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158  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


1 Cathedral of the decorations, a rose
Assumption of the window and three high
windows, the whole crowned
Blessed Virgin Mary by a tympanum.
Katedrala Marijina Uznesenja The interior has three
Kaptol. Tel (01) 481 47 27. Open aisles and a polygonal apse.
10am–5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun. During a late 19th-century
reorganization, the Baroque
Dedicated to the Assumption and Rococo altars were
and St Stephen, this is the transferred to other churches
most famous monument in the diocese, and as a result
in the city. Its present only a few Gothic and
appearance dates from Renaissance works remain.
renovations carried out by These works include a statue
Friedrich von Schmidt and of St Paul (13th century),
Hermann Bollé after the wooden statues of the
earthquake of 1880, saints Peter and Paul The central nave in the Neo-Gothic
which destroyed the from the 15th century, Cathedral of the Assumption
dome, the bell tower a triptych entitled
and some of the walls. Golgotha (1495) by objects. These include
The rebuilding, which Albrecht Dürer and illuminated manuscripts, finely
retained the medieval a 14th-century crafted church ornaments from
plan of the cathedral, Crucifixion by the 11th to the 20th centuries,
was just the latest in Giovanni da Udine. and objects of veneration such
a series of alterations The cathedral also as the Cloak of King Ladislaus
the building had contains the tombs (11th century), a bishop’s veil
undergone in Decorative detail of one of and votive chapels from the 14th century and the
its long history. the cathedral spires of bishops and so-called Sepulchre of God.
The building was important This last piece was made by
already in existence in personalities in Croatian the embroiderers of the village
1094 when King Ladislaus history, such as Petar Zrinski, of Vugrovec, where Bishop
transferred the bishopric here Krsto Frankopan and the Petar Petretić founded an
from Sisak. Destroyed by the blessed Cardinal Alojzije embroidery school in around
Mongols in 1242, the cathedral Stepinac, whose tomb 1650. Among the oldest works
was rebuilt by Bishop Timotej a behind the main altar is by are a 10th-century ivory
few years later. In the centuries Ivan Meštrović. diptych and a bronze crucifix
that followed, the side aisles Of great interest are the from the 11th–12th centuries.
were added and the church frescoes from the Giotto-
was decorated with statues esque school in the sacristy: 2 Archbishop’s
and reliefs. the oldest (12th century) in
The new Neo-Gothic façade inland Croatia. In the basement Palace
(1880) is flanked by twin of the bishop’s sacristy, the Nadbiskupska palača
spires. The façade has a large Cathedral Treasury preserves Kaptol. Closed to the public.
ornate doorway with sculpted a rich collection of religious
The enormous Baroque
buildings comprising the
Archbishop’s Palace enclose
the other three sides of the
cathedral square. The building
incorporates three of the five
round towers and one square
tower, which were part of the
fortifications built from 1469
as defence against Turkish
attacks. The present palace
dates from 1730, when several
buildings were linked and
united by an imposing
Baroque façade.
Inside the complex is
the Romanesque chapel
of St Stephen Protomartyr
(13th century). This is the oldest
Elaborate twin spires of the Cathedral of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary building in Zagreb to have
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7


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Size 125mm x 217mm

ZA GREB  159


survived in its original form: stands a statue by Vanja Radauš
the frescoes are from the of the legendary wanderer and
14th century. minstrel Petrica Kerempuh,
In the square in front of the playing to the figure of a
palace stands a fountain with a hanged man.
column crowned by a statue of The large, picturesque
Mary with four angels, the work Dolac Market, which was
of the Viennese artist Anton first held in 1930, takes place
Dominik Fernkorn (1813–78) around the church. This is a
in around 1850. characteristic district of the
The moats that once city where Baroque houses
surrounded the walls have been face narrow streets and lanes.
filled in and turned into the A historic pharmacy is at
Ribnjak Public Gardens, with No. 19 Kaptol and an ancient
various statues including one house at No. 7.
called Modesty by Antun
Augustinčić (1900–79). The Stained-glass windows by Ivo Dulčić in the
defences were partially Church of St Francis 5 Stone Gate
demolished in the 19th century, Kamenita vrata
however. At No. 18 ulica Kaptol, while on the main altar there Kamenita.
opposite the cathedral, is the is a fine painting of St Francis
Northeast Tower, which is by Celestin Medović (1857– In the walls around Gradec,
now a residence. At No. 15 1920). The brightly coloured the part of Upper Town built
stands the Northwest Tower stained-glass windows on a neighbouring hill to
(Prišlinova kula), now part of were designed by Ivo Dulčić Kaptol, there were once five
a 15th-century building. in the 1960s. gates. Stone Gate is now the
In the adjacent 17th-century only one of these remaining.
monastery, where the It was built in the 13th century,
saint supposedly stayed, is the and stands beside a square
much-visited chapel of tower from 1266. In 1731 a
St Francis (1683), with ornate fire destroyed all the nearby
stucco decorations and houses, but a painting of Mary
Baroque paintings. with Child on the gate was
left undamaged. A chapel
4 Church of was established around this
painting and a Baroque
St Mary wrought-iron grille now
Sv. Marija protects the work, attributed
to a local master from the
Dolac 2. Tel (01) 481 49 59.
Open for Mass. 16th century.
On the west façade of the
Opatovina is a narrow street church is a statue of a woman,
where some of the houses a character from a famous
were built using parts of the Croation novel and the work of
Archbishop’s Palace by the Cathedral late-15th-century fortifications. the sculptor Ivo Kerdić in 1929.
of the Assumption The street leads into the On the other side of the gate,
ancient district of on the corner of Kamenita
3 Church of Dolac, at the end and Habdelićeva, stands
of which stands the an 18th-century
St Francis Church of St Mary, building. On the
Sv. Franjo which dates from ground floor of
the 14th century. this building is a
Kaptol 9. Tel (01) 481 11 25.
Open 7am–noon, 3–7pm daily. It was rearranged pharmacy (Alighieri
in 1740 when ljekarna) which has
Founded, according to legend, several Baroque been in existence
after St Francis’s return from altars were built by since 1350 and
the East, this church dates Franjo Rottman, which, from
from the 13th century. After but its present 1399 onwards,
the earthquake of 1880, the appearance belong ed to
church was rebuilt in the dates back to Nicolò Alighieri,
Neo-Gothic style. It was at rebuilding the great-
this time that the Baroque after the earth- grandson of
altars were removed. Some of quake in 1880. The monument to Petrica the great Italian
the side altars are Neo-Gothic, Near the church Kerempuh, Dolac writer Dante.




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160  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: the Upper Town (Gornji grad)

In the Upper Town there are various institutions which have
played a significant part in the history of the city and of 7 Croatian Natural
Croatia. They now house the political and cultural centres History Museum
of the country: the presidency of the Republic, Parliament, Created from three collections, the
the State Audit Court and several government ministries. museum houses most of the finds
from Krapina, which date human
All of these buildings were restored, repaired or rebuilt after presence in Croatia back to the
the terrible earthquake of 1880. Some of the ancient noble Palaeolithic era.
palaces have been converted into museums. There are also
three interesting churches: the ancient church of St Mark,
the Baroque church of St Catherine built by the Jesuits, and
the church of Saints Cyril and Methodius. The daily signal to
close the city gates was rung from the medieval tower of D E M E T R O V A A
Lotrščak (Turris Latruncolorum). Č K
T A
E
L
q Viceroy’s Palace M
The building dates from the 17th century and was
built after the city became the seat of the Ban
(governor of Croatia) in 1621. It now houses the
presidency of the Republic.
M E S N I Č K A U L I C A





C A M A R K O V
I
L T R G
U

V A
E
Š
O A
A T S K
w Croatian History Museum M D
This museum, housed in the Vojković-Oršić- O
Kalmer-Rauch palace, has works of art and E T
documents collected since 1959. M
O
L
I
R
I
Ć

r Church of SS. Cyril
and Methodius
Built by Orthodox
Christians in the first half
of the 19th century, the t Tower of Lotrščak
church, designed by At noon every day a cannon is
Bartol Felbinger, has a fired from this tower, which
fine iconostasis. dates from the 12th century.
e . Croatian Museum
of Naive Art
A wonderful collection of Classical Key
Croatian Naive paintings and sculptures Suggested route
are on display at this museum.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7


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ZA GREB  161

Street-by-Street: the Upper Town (Gornji grad) 8 . Meštrović Atelier
The great Croatian sculptor
Ivan Meštrović lived in this
18th-century building Gornji
Grad
from 1922 to 1941. About
ten years before his death
he donated his home and CENTRAL
ZAGREB
all the works of art in it to
the state.
Locator Map

D E M E T R O V A K A V A 0 Parliament Building
This building dates from 1910, when the
provincial administration offices were
T A Č E K O enlarged. The independence of Croatia
was proclaimed from the central window
E Č of the building in 1918.
L I
M R A
A C
S I
A L
B U
A
K
Č
I
P A T
O
M A R K O V
T R G
9 . Church of St Mark
The coloured tiles on the roof of this
K A M E N I T A
A fine Gothic church form the coats
K of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia,
S Slavonia and Zagreb.
D A
O C
T L I
E
M U
O A 5 The Stone Gate is
L K
I Č all that remains of the
R I
I five original gates
Ć P A T constructed around
O the Gradec area in
the 13th century.
J E Z U I T S K I
T R G
The Klovićevi Dvori, an
important temporary
exhibition site, has
been housed since 1982
in a 17th-century
Jesuit monastery.
y Church of St Catherine
Built on the site of an ancient
0 metres 50
Dominican church, this is the city’s
0 yards 50 most fascinating Baroque building.



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162  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


6 Zagreb City
Museum
Muzej grada Zagreba
Opatička ulica 20. Tel (01) 485 13 61.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri; 11am–7pm
Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. 8 by appt.
& 7 ^ Kovačić residence:
Masarykova 21. Open 10am–5pm
Thu. Krleža residence: Krležin Gvozd
23. Open 11am–5pm Tue. Dujśin-
Ribar residence: Demetrova 3/II.
Open 11am–5pm Tue. ∑ mgz.hr
Three historic buildings (the
17th-century nuns’ convent of
St Clare, a 12th-century tower,
and a 17th century granary)
have been linked to form the
Zagreb City Museum. Its collec-
tion of historic, cultural, military
and domestic artifacts, many
donated by prominent towns-
people, are arranged in themed
displays illustrating every facet
of the city’s development, from
prehistory to the present day.
Across the city, the museum Sculptures in the garden of the Meštrović Atelier
also maintains the former
residences of some of Croatia’s 7 Croatian Natural 8 Meštrović Atelier
most celebrated recent figures; History Museum Atelje Meštrović
that of the architect Viktor Hrvatski prirodoslovni muzej Mletačka 8. Tel (01) 485 11 23.
Kovačić (1878–1924); the writer Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
Miroslav Krleža (1893–1981) and Demetrova 1. Tel (01) 485 17 00. 10am–2pm Sat & Sun. & 8 =
his wife Bela; plus the poet and Open 10am–5pm Tue–Fri (to 8pm ∑ mestrovic.hr
painter Cata Dujšin-Ribar (1897– Thu), 10am–7pm Sat, 10am–1pm Sun.
1994) and her two husbands, the ∑ hpm.hr The atelier building dates
actor/theatre director Dubravko from the 17th century; the
Dujšin and the politician Dr Ivan The 18th-century Amadeo sculptor Ivan Meštrović himself
Ribar. The period furnishings, Palace, a theatre from 1797 to modernized it to live in from
decor and works of art in each 1834, has been the Natural 1922 to 1942. It now houses a
are perfectly preserved, making History Museum since 1868, collection of his work. It is part
fascinating short tours. when collections from the of The Museums of Ivan
Department of Natural Science Meštrović, together with
at the National Museum were the Gallery and the Kaštilac
transferred here. At the end of in Split, as well as the burial
the 19th century there were chapel in Otavice (see p112).
three museums There are almost 100
of natural history: works on display,
Mineralogy and including exhibits
Petrography, Geology in the courtyard –
and Palaeontology, History of Croatia,
and Zoology. These Laookon of our Days
three merged in and Woman in Agony.
1986 to form the A mineral in the The drawings, models
present museum. Croatian Natural and sculptures in
There are over History Museum wood, stone and
2,500,000 exhibits, bronze testify to the
including minerals from all over expres sive ability and great
the world and palaeontology skills of the sculptor. His
collections containing some of personal archives are also
the material found in Krapina. here, as well as photographic
The zoological collection records and works by other
Partial reconstruction of a late Iron Age documents every species of artists associated with
workshop, Zagreb City Museum animal found in Croatia. the master.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7


162-163_EW_Croatia.indd 162 12/12/2016 11:27
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ZA GREB  163


Ivan Meštrović

Regarded as one of the most important sculptors of the 20th century, Ivan Meštrović
was born in 1883 in Vrpolje where his parents had gone for the harvest from their
native village of Otavice in the Dalmatian hinterland. As a young boy he delighted in
making figures out of wood, and his work was noticed by the village mayor and by
Lujo Marun, an archaeologist, who sent him to Split when he was 17 to study
sculpture. Thanks to donors, he was able to attend the Academy of Fine Arts in
Vienna, where he designed works for later production. Here he met and became
friends with the great French sculptor, Auguste Rodin. In 1908 he moved to Paris and
his first exhibition established his reputation. He worked in various cities, including
Split – creating many of the works now on show in the Meštrović gallery there – and
Zagreb. He also took up politics: during World War II he was imprisoned by the Nazi
regime and freed on the Vatican's intervention. He then moved to Rome where he
sculpted the Pietà Romana, now in the Vatican Museum. After the war he taught at
univer sities in the US, where he died in 1962. He was buried in the burial chapel in
Otavice (see p112) that he designed for himself and his family.

Woman by the Sea
is a splendid
Meštrović, female figure in
intent on his marble (1926)
work which seems
to twist
around on
itself. The
form of the
body is
vigorous and
Detail of the yet the hands
Resurrection of are delicate
Lazarus (1940) and slender.



The Sculptor at Work
The speed at which Meštrović executed his works was
proverbial, although the preparation time was lengthy.
To satisfy demand, he replicated his works in wood, marble
and bronze. Three copies, not quite identical, exist of the
statue of the Bishop of Nin, in Nin, Split and Varaždin.







Mother and Child
is a wooden sculpture
from 1942 which
demonstrates the
artist’s great
expressive talent. The
figure of the child is History of Croatia is a work from 1932.
almost insignificant, There are four originals; one in bronze is in
leaving the face of the Meštrović Atelier in Zagreb. The woman’s
the mother to play thoughtful gaze looks to the future,
the main role. symbolizing expectations and hopes.





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164  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


coats of arms of q Viceroy’s Palace
Croatia, Dalmatia, Banski dvori
Slavonia and the city Markov trg. n (01) 456 92 22.
of Zagreb. The church Open by appt.
has been refurbished
with several statues The parliament chamber,
by the sculptor Ivan the central archives, the law
Meštrović. On the courts, the President of the
high altar is a large Republic’s residence and
Christ on the Cross, government offices are all
a Pietà stands on the housed in this building in
altar of the Holy Cross front of St Mark’s, which
and a bronze statue was badly damaged in an
of Mary with Child airstrike in 1991. The palace
adorns an altar is similar in design to the
dedicated to the parliament building and
Virgin Mary. The is made up of two long
modern frescoes 18th-century struc tures. In
depicting Croat the 19th century two two-
kings in action storey wings were added.
were painted by
The Church of St Mark, with its colourful glazed tile roof Jozo Kljaković.
w Croatian History
9 Church of 0 Parliament Museum
St Mark Building Hrvatski povijesni muzej
Sv. Marko Sabor Matoševa ulica 9. Tel (01) 485 19 00.
Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri,10am–
Markov trg. Tel (01) 485 16 11. Open Markov trg. n (01) 456 96 07. 1pm Sat & Sun. Closed public hols.
check opening times (01) 481 40 51. Open groups only by appt. & 8 ^ ∑ hismus.hr
Today this is the Upper Town’s Built in Neo-Classical style The museum, founded in
parish church. St Mark’s in 1908 after several 1846, has been housed here
was first mentioned in 17th- and 18th-century since 1959. It illustrates the
1256 when King Bela IV Baroque buildings were history of Croatia from the
granted the town of razed, this building Middle Ages to the present
Gradec permission to holds an important day by means of all kinds of
hold a market fair in place in the story historical mementoes and
front of the church. of Croatia. Historic literature. These include
The fair lasted for proclamations documents and paintings
two weeks and was have been issued of political, military and
held to celebrate from the balcony: cultural events, as well as
the saint’s day. the seceding of the items such as firearms, flags
The church nation from the and medals. The exhibitions
has undergone Mary with Child by Austro-Hungarian are not per manent but
various alterations Meštrović, St Mark’s kingdom (29 change frequently due to
over the centuries. All October 1918) limited space.
that is left from the original and independence from The museum is housed in
construction is a Romanesque Yugoslavia after a referendum the Baroque Vojković-Oršić-
window and a splendid Gothic in 1991. Today the Sabor is still Kulmer-Rauch Palace, which
doorway, created by the the centre of 21st-century dates from the second half
sculptor Ivan Parler between Croat politics. of the 18th century.
1364 and 1377. The 15 niches
on the door contain statues of
Jesus, Mary, St Mark and the
12 apostles. Some of these were
replaced by wooden copies in
the Baroque era.
On various occasions fires
and earthquakes have been
responsible for changes in the
church’s appearance. Its present
look dates from 1882, when the
coloured glazed tiles on the roof
were added. The tiles bear the The Parliament Building (Sabor), built in Neo-Classical style in 1908
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7


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ZA GREB  165

y Church of
St Catherine
Sv. Katarina
Katarinin trg. Tel (01) 485 19 50.
Open 8am–8pm daily.
The Jesuits built this church in
around 1630 on the site of a
Dominican building. The church
is considered to be one of
the most beautiful religious
buildings in Zagreb. The white
façade has a doorway and four
niches with statues and six
prominent pilasters. Above is
a niche with a statue of Mary.
The single-nave church is
On the hills – rainforest by Ivan Rabuzin (1960), Croatian Museum of Naive Art home to numerous Baroque
works of art. Of particular
e Croatian Museum designed by Hermann Bollé. interest are the stucco reliefs
of Naive Art The interior contains a large (1721–3) by Antonio Quadrio,
Hrvatski muzej naivne umjetnosti iconostasis that was painted the Scenes of the Life of
by the Ukrainian Epaminondas St Catherine by the Slovenian
Sv. Ćirila i Metoda, Čirilometodska Bučevski, and four large artist Franc Jelovšek (1700–64)
ulica 3. Tel (01) 485 19 11. Open May– paintings by Ivan Tišov. in the medallion on the ceiling,
Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, 10am–1pm The adjacent Greek-Catholic a beautiful Altar of St Ignatius by
Sun; Nov–Apr: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, seminary was built in 1774 and the Venetian sculptor Francesco
10am–2pm Sat; 10am–1pm Sun. enlarged at the beginning of Robba (1698–1757) and, on the
Closed public hols. & 8 = the 20th century. main altar (1762), St Catherine
∑ hmnu.org
among the Alexandrian
Since 1967, this 19th-century t Tower of Lotrščak Philosophers by Kristof
building with its beautiful Neo- Andrej Jelovšek (1729–76).
Baroque façade has housed Kula Lotrščak In the nearby square called
works from an exhibition of Strossmayerovo šetalište 9. Tel (01) Jezuitski trg, there is a fountain
Naive painters which opened 485 17 68. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–7pm with a statue of a Fisherman
in Zagreb in 1952. The paintings Mon–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun. with a Serpent by Simeon
are char acterized by the use & = Roksandić (1908). Facing this
of vivid colour and a strong is a Jesuit monastery (17th
feeling for narrative. There are Since the middle of the 19th century) and a large building
paint ings by the founders of century, the inhabitants of from the same period which
the Naive trend, Ivan Generalić Zagreb have set their clocks was the Jesuit seminary and,
and Mirko Virius, as well as by at noon by the cannons fired later, a boarding school for
the Hlebine School (see p25), from this tower. Dating from boys of noble parentage.
where works by Ivan Večenaj the 13th century, it is one of the
and Mijo Kovačić stand out, oldest buildings in the city.
and artists from other regions At one time this square tower
(Ivan Rabuzin, Slavko Stolnik had a bell, which announced
and Matija Skurjeni). Among the closing of the city gates
the sculptures are several by each evening. Its name comes
Petar Smajič. from the latin campana
latruncolorum – bell of thieves –
r Church of SS. Cyril anyone left outside at night ran
the risk of being robbed.
and Methodius The tower originally stood
Sv. Ćiril i Metod alongside the southern side of
Sv. Ćirila i Metoda, Ćirilometodska the walls of Gradec. Even at that
ulica 1. Tel (01) 48517 73. time, the walls, nearly 2 m (6 ft)
thick, were built with chains
First built in around 1830 in inside them as an anti-
Neo-Classical style by the earthquake measure.
architect Bartol Felbinger The tower now houses a
(1785–1871), the church was gallery. It is worth climbing to
rebuilt after the earthquake of the top for spectacular views Rich Baroque interior of the Church
1880 in a Neo-Byzantine style over the city. of St Catherine




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166  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


o Mimara Museum
Muzej Mimara
Rooseveltov trg 5. Tel (01) 482 81 00.
Open Oct–Jun: 10am–5pm Tue,
Wed, Fri & Sat, 10am–7pm Thu,
10am–2pm Sun; Jul–Sep: 10am–7pm
Tue–Fri, 10am– 5pm Sat, 10am–2pm
Sun. Closed Mon. & 8 =
∑ mimara.hr
In 1973, Ante Topić Mimara,
a businessman who was
also a collector, painter and
restorer, donated his extensive
collections to Croatia, and the
Mimara Museum was set up for
their display. The museum is
The Neo-Baroque building housing the Croatian National Theatre housed in an enormous Neo-
Renaissance building built in
u Croatian National i Museum of Arts 1895 by the German architects
Theatre and Crafts Ludwig and Hülsner.
Hrvatsko narodno kazalište Muzej za umjetnost i obrt The works are displayed
chronologically from the
Trg maršala Tita 15. Tel (01) 488 84 18. Trg maršala Tita 10. Tel (01) 488 21 11. prehistoric era to the present
Open for performances only. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sat, 10am– day. The archaeological section
Closed public hols. ∑ hnk.hr 2pm Sun. & 8 by appt. = 0 ^
∑ muo.hr is particularly fascinating, with
The Croatian National Theatre important finds from ancient
stands in the square marking This museum was first Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia and
the beginning of a U-shaped established in 1880 to house Pre-Columbian America, as well
series of parks and squares collections of artworks by as the Middle and Far East
forming a “green horseshoe”, craftsmen and artists. The (Japan, Cambodia, Indonesia
the design of the engineer building was designed by and India are represented).
Milan Lenuci (1849– Hermann Bollé and was The icon collection not only
1924). The theatre, one built between 1887 and contains Russian pieces, but
of a number of imposing 1892. More than 3,000 also has icons from Palestine,
buildings in the square, objects of applied arts Antioch and Asia Minor dating
was completed in from the Gothic from the 6th to the 13th cen-
1895 and is a blend period to the present turies. There are ancient Persian,
of Neo-Baroque provide an overview Turkish and Moroccan carpets,
and Rococo. It of Croatia’s cultural and about 300 exhibits cover
was designed by history and its over 3,500 years of the develop-
the Viennese A 19th-century close ties to the ment of Chinese art, from the
architects Hermann clock, Museum of rest of Europe. Shang to the Qing dynasties.
Helmer and Ferdinand Arts and Crafts The collections offer More than 650 glassware
Fellner. The roof has an insight into the exhibits come from Europe, as
two small domes at the Croatian and European well as Persia and Egypt. About
front and a higher dome production of arts and crafts, 1,000 objects of applied arts
further back. The exterior is spanning from late Medieval
ornamented with two orders times to Art Deco and right up
of columns running along its to the more contemporary era.
entire length. The collections housed at the
The interior is richly museum include religious art,
decorated with works by Judaica, and items including
Croatian and Viennese artists. clocks and watches, ivories,
Five stage backcloths include metalworks, glass, ceramics,
one called The Croatian textiles and fashion. As the
Renewal, a splendid work by museum is supported by
Vlaho Bukovac. international backing,
In the area in front of the impressive temporary
theatre stands a masterpiece exhibitions from abroad
by Ivan Meštrović, The Well of occasionally take place here.
Life, which consists of a group The adjacent library has a
of bronze figures huddled total of 65,000 books on The Bather by Renoir (1868),
around a well. arts and crafts. Mimara Museum
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7


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ZA GREB  167


and pieces of furniture Melanesia and Australia, was
give a good overall picture assembled from donations
of European craftsmanship made by scholars and explorers,
from the Middle Ages to the among them Dragutin Lerman
19th century. and brothers Mirko and
There is also a wide-ranging Stevo Seljan.
collection of 200 sculptures,
which date from ancient a Botanical Garden
Greece to the time of the
Impressionists. They include of the Faculty of
works by the Italian sculptors Science
Giambologna, the Della Robbias Botanički vrt Prirodoslovno
and Verrocchio, and the matematičkog fakulteta
Frenchmen Jean-Antoine
Houdon and Auguste Rodin. Marulićev trg 9a. n (01) 489 80 60.
Italian painting is represented Open Apr–Oct: 9am–2:30pm Mon &
by, among others, Veronese, Traditional Croatian costumes on display, Tue; 9am–7pm Wed–Sun. 8
∑ hirc.botanic.hr/vrt
Paolo Veneziano, Pietro Ethnographic Museum
Lorenzetti, Raphael, Canaletto, Part of the “green horseshoe”
Giorgione and Caravaggio. pieces) of the 80,000 exhibits designed by Milan Lenuci
Dutch Baroque painting is which the museum possesses is an English-style garden
represented by Rembrandt, Jacob are on display. Croatian culture created in 1890 by Antun
Van Ruisdael and Jan Van Goyen. is illustrated through Heinz, a professor of botany,
Flemish masters here exhibits of gold and and entrusted to the faculty
include Rogier van der silver jewellery, musical of Mathematics and Natural
Weyden, Hieronymus instruments, splendid Sciences at Zagreb University.
Bosch, Van Dyck and Rubens. embroidery, furnishings, The garden, covering an area
Diego Velázquez, Bartolomé kitchen utensils, tools, of 50,000 sq m (540,000 sq ft),
Esteban Murillo and beautiful traditional is an oasis of tranquillity and
Francisco Goya represent women’s costumes for this reason it is a pop ular
the Spanish painters. embroidered in gold and place in which to stroll. There
The museum also men’s ceremonial dress. are about 6,000 plant species
has paintings by the A reconstruction of here, including around 1,800
English artists John a farmhouse room tropical plants from all over the
Constable and Putto by Verrocchio, illustrates the customs world, with Asia particularly
JMW Turner and Mimara Museum and way of life of Croat well represented.
the French painters farmers and fishermen. Paths link the conifer woods,
Edouard Manet, Pierre-Auguste There is also a fascinating artificial ponds, the exhibition
Renoir and Camille Pissarro. collection of dolls dressed in pavilions, rock gardens and
traditional costumes, called the glasshouses. A wonderful
p Ethnographic Ljeposav Perinić collection. display is provided by the
different varieties of trees,
The valuable collection of
Museum pieces from non-European shrubs and flowers that are
Etnografski muzej civilizations, including Latin grown here. Aquatic plants are
America, Africa, the Far East, cultivated in special ponds.
Mažuranićev trg 14. Tel (01) 482 62 20.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–1pm
Sat & Sun. Closed Mon, public hols.
& 8 7 = ^ (flash). ∑ emz.hr
This is the most important
museum of its kind in Croatia.
It was founded in 1919 and set
up in this harmonious domed
building, constructed in 1902
in the Art Nouveau style by
the architect Vjekoslav Bastl,
for exhibitions held by the
Chamber of Commerce. The
statues decorating the central
part of the façade are by the
sculptor Rudolf Valdec and the
frescoes on the dome inside
were painted by Oton Iveković.
Only a small proportion (2,800 Flowers in bloom at the Botanical Gardens




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168  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

d Gallery of Old g Archaeological
Masters Museum
Galerija starih majstora Arheološki muzej
See pp170–71. Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 19. Tel (01)
487 30 00. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat
(to 8pm Thu), 10am–1pm Sun. &
f Modern Gallery 8 by appt. = ∑ amz.hr
Moderna galerija A large 19th-century building,
Andrije Hebranga 1. Tel (01) 604 10 55. the Vranyczany-Hafner Palace,
Open 11am–7pm Tue–Fri; 11am–2pm has housed the Archaeological
Sat & Sun. Closed Mon, public hols. Museum since 1945. The
Art Pavilion, a historic venue for & 8 7 = ^ ∑ moderna- institution itself, however,
major exhibitions galerija.hr was founded in 1846.
Around 400,000 pieces from
s Art Pavilion The richest national museum all over Croatia, and particularly
Umjetnički paviljon of Croatian arts, housed in the the area around Zagreb, are on
Vranyczany Palace (1883), holds display here. The museum has
Trg kralja Tomislava 22. Tel (01) 484 works by the most eminent five main sections: prehistoric,
10 70. Open 11am–8pm Tue–Sun,
11am–9pm Fri. & ∑ umjetnicki- Croatian painters and sculptors Egyptian, ancient and medieval,
paviljon.hr of the 19th–21st centuries. The and a part devoted to coins
collection dates from 1905 when and medals.
In 1896 the Art Pavilion the first works of Ivan Meštrović, The first section covers
represented Croatia at the inter- Mirko Rački and others were the period from the Neolithic
national exhibition in Budapest. acquired. Later purchases and to the late Iron Age and
Its iron skeleton was then donations brought the current includes the famous Vučedol
transported to Zagreb and rebuilt total to some 9,800 paintings, Dove, a pouring vessel shaped
on this site in 1898 to fit the sculptures, watercolours, like a bird. Despite the rustic
designs of Ferdinand Fellner and drawings and prints. materials used, it nonetheless
Hermann Helmer. It is now used The permanent display of 750 reveals the technical skills that
for large-scale, diverse art exhi- works includes modern classics the pre-Illyrian civilizations
bitions. A work by Ivan Meštrović, from painters Vlaho Bukovac, had acquired.
a monument to the Renaissance Mato C Medović, Miroslav Another important exhibit
painter Andrija Medulić, stands Kraljević and Josip Račić, the is the bandage used to bind
in front of the Pavilion. sculptors Ivan Meštrović, Frano the Mummy of Zagreb. This
The Pavilion faces onto a Kršinić and Branislav Dešković, bandage has mysterious origins
square, Trg Kralja Tomislava, along with contemporary artists and bears text in the Etruscan
dedicated to the first Croatian working in photography, video language, which has not yet
king, Tomislav. An equestrian and other new media. The inno- been completely deciphered.
statue by the sculptor Robert vative, multisensory MG Tactile The museum’s ancient
Frangeš-Mihanović stands here Gallery is aimed particularly at collection is the most important
in commemoration. the visually impaired. of all and includes the






















Gundulić Imagining Osman by Vlaho Bukovac, founder of modern Croat painting, Modern Gallery
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7


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Date 1st October 2013
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ZA GREB  169


life of Croatia lie here.
An imposing façade covered in
ivy forms the entrance to the
Catholic and Orthodox chapels.
From here branch two long
Neo-Renaissance arcades which
house the burial rooms of the
most important families.
A long tree-lined avenue
divides the area into two
sections which in turn are
divided into squares of trees
and bushes. Among the areas
of greenery stand funeral
An avenue in Maksimir Park, home of the zoo monuments by leading Croatian
sculptors and engravers. There
Lapidarium, which can be j Maksimir Park are works by Ivan Meštrović,
found in the courtyard. It is a Maksimirski perivoj Jozo Kljaković, Ivan Rendić,
collection of stone monuments Maksimirski perivoj bb. Open daily. Antun Filipović, Antun Augus-
dating from the Roman period 8 ∑ park-maksimir.hr tinčić, Edo Murtić, Ivan Kerdić
(it is open every day except for and Robert Frangeš-Mihanović.
Monday). The valuable exhibit The largest park in the city As well as the tombs of
of the Head of Plautilla, from (covering over 3 sq km/ notable personalities there is
the Roman town of Salona 1 sq mile) is considered one also a monument dedicated
(see pp118–19), is the emblem of Croatia’s living monuments. to the memory of the soldiers
of the museum. It is named after Bishop who died during World War I,
An archaeological Maksimilijan Vrhovac, who by Juri Turkalj and V Radauš,
conservation labora tory initiated the project in 1794. and a monument dedicated
dedicated to preserving The park was finally to the Jews who died in World
the exhibits is also part completed in 1843. War II, by Antun Augustinčić.
of the museum. In The park is land- On one of the cemetery lawns
addition the museum scaped in the English there is a monument dedicated
has developed style with wide to the German soldiers killed
several educational lawns and flower in the war.
projects aimed at beds, small woods The well-preserved cemetery
school children. The and lakes. The zoo is a real open-air museum and
archaeological Head of Plautilla, (Zoološki vrt) has is often visited by the local
library next door Archaeological Museum hundreds of different inhabitants, who regularly put
houses over 45,000 animals. Among the fresh flowers and candles on
volumes, some of which follies scattered around the the tombs of great Croats of
are very rare. park, the Vidikovac (Belvedere) the past.
offers great views and has a
h Museum of small café.
Contemporary Art
Muzej suvremene umjetnosti k Mirogoj
Cemetery
Avenija Dubrovnik 17. Tel (01) 605 27
00. Open 11am–6pm Tue–Sun, 11am– Groblje Mirogoj
8pm Sat. ∑ msu.hr & 8 7 = Mirogoj. Open Oct–Mar: 7:30am–6pm
daily, Apr–Sep: 6am–8pm daily.
This superb exhibition space
displays more than 600 works At the foot of Mount
by 200 artists. Highlights include Medvednica, 4 km (2 miles)
the experimental films of Ivan from the centre of the city, is
Ladislav Galeta and Tomislav the Mirogoj Cemetery, built in
Gotovac, and conceptual pieces 1876 by Hermann Bollé. This
from Goran Trbuljak, Sanja great architect had already
Iveković and Atelier Kožarić. demonstrated his ability and
Works such as Miroslav Balka’s talent with the building of the
Eyes of Purification and Carsten new city district. The cemetery
Höller’s slides, also shown in covers an area of 28,000 sq m
Tate Modern’s Turbine Hall in (6.91 acres) and the tombs of
London, add to the museum’s the most illustrious figures in Arcade in the Mirogoj Cemetery, one of the
heavyweight credentials. the political, cultural and artistic most beautiful in Europe




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170  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

d Gallery of Old Masters
Galerija starih majstora

In 1880 Josip Juraj Strossmayer, the rich and
powerful Bishop of Ðakovo and one of the leading
proponents of a pan-Slav movement, had this
gallery built to house the Academy of Arts and
Sciences and the Gallery of Old Masters, to which
he donated his own impressive collection of about
250 works of art. Virgin with Child and St Francis
and St Bernardine of Siena
The Neo-Renaissance building has a large internal This painting is one of the few
porticoed courtyard. Nine rooms on the upper floor works by Bartolomeo Caporali
house around 200 works from the major European (c.1420–1505) to be found
schools from the 14th to the 19th century. Behind outside Perugia in Italy.
the building is a large statue of Bishop Strossmayer
sculpted by Ivan Meštrović in 1926.





















Susanna and the Elders
The three figures depicted in the Second floor
painting stand out against the landscape
in the background. The faces of the two
old men are very expressive; it is as
though they are revived by gazing
at the beautiful Susanna. The artist,
Master of the Prodigal Son,
demonstrates great technical
skill and vivid use of colour.

Gallery Guide
The gallery is on the second floor
of the building. Exhibits include
works by important Italian,
German, Flemish and French
masters, representing schools
and artistic trends from the
14th to the 19th century. Before Madame Recamier
visiting the gallery, note, in the This portrait by Antoine Jean Gros
entrance hall, the Baška Tablet, (1771–1835) was probably painted
one of the oldest documents of around 1825. Madame Recamier was
Croat culture (11th century), a leading figure of some notoriety in
written in Glagolitic script. Parisian high society of that time.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see pp230–31 and pp245–7


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ZA GREB  171

Virgin Mary with Jesus,
John and an Angel VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This tondo by Jacopo del
Sellaio uses exuberant Practical Information
colour. The Tuscan artist Trg Nikole Šubića Zrinskog 11.
belonged to the circle Tel (01) 489 51 17. Open 10am–
of Filippo Lippi and 7pm Tue, 10am–4pm Wed–Fri,
Sandro Botticelli. 10am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8
^(without flash).





Adam and Eve Key
This lively oil
on panel painting Italian School 14th–16th century
is by Mariotto Italian School 16th–18th century
Albertinelli (1474– Flemish and Dutch Masters and
1515), a Florentine European School 15th–17th
painter. It shows century
Adam and Eve French Masters 18th–19th century
being expelled from Non-exhibition space
Earthly Paradise.
















. St Augustine and
St Benedict
The work reveals the
expressive skill of the
great Venetian master,
Giovanni Bellini (1430–
1516). The figures of
the saints occupy
simple niches.








. St Sebastian
This delicate image of the saint
by Vittore Carpaccio (1465–1525)
was part of a polyptych. In this
painting with its vivid colouring,
Main entrance the Venetian master expresses the
drama of the martyrdom through
the smile of the young man at the
moment of his death.




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CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA  173

CENTRAL CROATIA


Central Croatia is bordered to the west by the vine-covered hills of Samobor,
which continue on towards Karlovac and Ogulin, and to the south by the
Bosnia-Herzegovina border as far as Jasenovac. To the northeast is a stretch of
fertile valley formed by the Sava river, which runs from Zagreb to the Lonjsko
Polje Nature Park. These wetlands, south of Sisak, are home to all kinds of birds.

This region of Croatia has long been a Serbian refugees were brought in,
meeting point for different civilizations. along with minorities of Vlachs,
Until the 12th century BC, this area was Albanians, Montenegrin and German-
inhabited by the Illyrians, who were speaking groups. Villages sprang up
joined by Celts in the 4th century BC. which were inhabited by Catholics,
The first Illyrian cities became Roman Muslims and people of the Orthodox
towns after the 1st century AD. The most faith. These diverse communities lived
important was Siscia (now called Sisak), together without any serious tension
which was sacked by the Huns in 441 and until the mid-19th century, when
raided by the Avars in the 6th century. feelings of nationalism swept across
The southern border with Bosnia, which Europe. The most recent war, fought
dates back to 271 AD, was confirmed at in the name of nationalism, created
the time of the division between the widespread destruction and resulted
Western and Eastern Churches in 1054, in thousands of Serbs choosing to
and later re-confirmed when the Turks leave the region.
occupied the Balkans. To stop the This part of Croatia is the area least
continuous Turkish raids, in 1578 the visited by tourists, although it offers
Austrian Emperor established a Vojna magnificent scenery with rivers and
krajina (Military Frontier) in areas which wood-covered hills and good Croatian
had mostly been abandoned by the cuisine. There is plenty to see, with
Croats, who had fled to the coastal cities ancient castles, churches, museums
for refuge. To help guard the borders, and nature reserves.

























Horses grazing in the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park
Gentle slopes planted with vines near Samobor



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174  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Central Croatia

Three distinct areas make up this part of the country: the lowlands
around the capital, Zagreb, with numerous 18th-century buildings
constructed on the sites of ancient castles; the hilly area between
Samobor and Karlovac, renowned for its wine production; and
the strip of border with Bosnia-Herzegovina, south of Sisak. The
landscape of Central Croatia is varied, with areas of rolling plains
alternating with vine-covered hills. Higher areas are covered in
thick woods and there is also an area of wetlands that comprise
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park. In the cities and larger towns there are
Baroque churches, monasteries, castles, fortresses and museums.
Most suffered damage in the 1991–95 war, but some have Roman piece, Civic
been repaired since. Museum, Sisak
Varaždin Bjelovar Ðurdevac
Ljubljana Vrbovec
Zaprešić Zabok Sesvete Dubrava
Žumberačko Gorje SAMOBOR Kerestinec Zagreb Dugo Selo Kloštar Česma BJELOVARSKO- Veliki Virovitica

OKIĆ
Brezovica Velika Ivanić Čazma BILOGORSKA Grđevac
Gorica Ivanić-Grad Grubišno Polje
JASTREBARSKO GRAD ZAGREB Veliki Zdenci
Kupa Križ
Garešnički Slatina
Brestovac
Sava
OZALJ Buševec GARIĆ Daruvar
Moslavačka Gora
Popovača Garešnica
Pokupsko
KARLOVAC Kupa SISAK KUTINA
Kupa
Interior of the Church of St Mary Duga Resa Petrinja Moščenica
in Jastrebarsko Gora LONJSKO POLJE NATURE PARK
Čigoć
Tušilović Sava NOVSKA
Rijeka Glina Blinja Sunja
Vojnić
KARLOVAČKA SISAČKO-MOSLAVAČKA
TOPUSKO TOPLICE Glina
JASENOVAC
OGULIN HRVATSKA KOSTAJNICA
Zrinska Gora
Josipdol
Zrin
Drežnica Korana Slunj
Una
V e l i k a K a p e l a
Plaški
Dvor
Zadar Broćanac
Rakovica
Getting Around M a l a K a p e l a
The road network which crosses central
Croatia is good. Recently roads have been
improved and the motorways extended. From
Zagreb the A3 motorway goes to Samobor and
the Lonjsko Polje Nature Park. State road number
30 serves Sisak, while a secondary road network
connects the other towns. All the main towns
and cities are served by the Croatian railway 0 kilometres 20
system, except for the city of Samobor. Buses 0 miles 20
go to all villages, however small.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247


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CENTR AL CRO A TIA  175

Sights at a Glance HUNGARY
1 Samobor 0 Jasenovac SLOVENIA • ZAGREB
2 Okić q Novska
3 Jastrebarsko w Lonjsko Polje Nature Park
4 Ozalj e Kutina HERZEGOVINA
BOSNIA-
5 Karlovac r Garić
6 Ogulin ADRIATIC
7 Topusko Toplice SEA
8 Sisak Locator Map
9 Hrvatska Kostajnica





Varaždin Bjelovar Ðurdevac
Ljubljana Vrbovec
Zaprešić Zabok Sesvete Dubrava
Žumberačko Gorje SAMOBOR Kerestinec Zagreb Dugo Selo Kloštar Česma BJELOVARSKO- Veliki Virovitica

OKIĆ
Brezovica Velika Ivanić Čazma BILOGORSKA Grđevac
Gorica Ivanić-Grad Grubišno Polje
JASTREBARSKO GRAD ZAGREB Veliki Zdenci
Kupa Križ
Garešnički Slatina
Brestovac
Sava
OZALJ Buševec GARIĆ Daruvar
Moslavačka Gora
Popovača Garešnica
Pokupsko
KARLOVAC Kupa SISAK KUTINA
Kupa
Duga Resa Moščenica
Petrinja
Gora LONJSKO POLJE NATURE PARK
Čigoć
Tušilović Sava NOVSKA
Rijeka Glina Blinja Sunja
Vojnić
KARLOVAČKA SISAČKO-MOSLAVAČKA
TOPUSKO TOPLICE Glina
JASENOVAC
OGULIN HRVATSKA KOSTAJNICA River Sava near Sisak
Zrinska Gora
Josipdol
Zrin
Drežnica Korana Slunj
Una
V e l i k a K a p e l a
Plaški
Dvor
Zadar Broćanac
Rakovica
Key
Motorway
M a l a K a p e l a
Motorway under
construction
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
Vine-covered hills around Okić International border
For keys to symbols see back flap


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176  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


Metzinger (1734). The adjacent In the village around the foot of
monastery is laid out around a the hill is the Church of St Mary
beautiful quad rangular cloister (Sv. Marija). It was rebuilt in 1893
and has Baroque frescoes in incorporating a decorated
the refectory and library. doorway from 1691 and survived
The history of the city and survived landslips in 1911 that
local area is well documented in engulfed much of the village.
the Civic Museum (Muzej grada Inside are some Baroque altars,
Samobora), housed in the a splendid pulpit and a font. In
18th-century Livadić Palace. The front of the church is an octag-
section dedicated to the history onal bell tower with a vestibule.
of Croatian mountaineering is
especially interesting.
R St Anastasia
The main altar in the Church of St Mary, Ulica sv. Ane 2. Tel (01) 336 00 82.
Samobor Open by appt.
1 Samobor E Civic Museum
Livadićeva 7. Tel (01) 336 10 14.
Map C2. * 15,000. @ (01) 336 72 Open 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 9am–7pm
76. n Trg kralja Tomislava 5, (01) 336 Fri, 10am–2pm Sat, 10am–5pm Sun.
00 44. _ Carnival (Feb); Day of the & 8 ^ =
city (3rd Sat in Oct). ∑ tz–samobor.hr
Samobor is built below the 2 Okić
ruins of what was once a large Map C2. n County: Preradovićeva
fort (Stari Grad). In 1242 it was 42, Zagreb, (01) 487 36 65.
granted the status of a royal free
town, and became an important High on an isolated hilltop,
trading centre. Today it is one towering above the fields A painting by Metzinger in the Church of
of the capitals of Croatian and woodland surrounding St Mary in Jastrebarsko
gastronomy, priding itself on the village of Okić, stand the
its traditional local dishes. ruins of a fortified town. These 3 Jastrebarsko
In the oldest area (Taborec) consist of the remains of a wall Map C2. * 5,500. £ from Zagreb.
is the Gothic Church of with round towers, an entrance @ from Zagreb. n Vladka Mačeka 1,
St Michael (Sv. Mihalj), which gate and a Gothic chapel. The (01) 627 29 40. ∑ tzgj.hr
was remodelled in the Baroque town, mentioned in documents
period. Dating from the same from 1183, belonged to the At the foot of the Plešivica
time is the Church of St counts of Okić, Zrinski, mountain chain, between
Anastasia (Sv. Anastazija) and a Frankopan and Erdödy. It was Samobor and Karlovac, stands
Franciscan monastery with the destroyed by the Turks and Jastrebarsko. The town appears
Church of St Mary (Sv. Marija): eventually abandoned in 1616. in documents of 1249. It
the Assumption behind the The steep, rocky approaches assumed greater importance
main altar was frescoed by leading up to the ruins are in 1257 when it was declared
Franc Jelovšek in 1752, popular with climbers, who are a royal free town by Bela IV and
while the altar on the left rewarded with fantastic views became a trading centre for
was decorated by Valentin from the summit. timber, livestock and the wine
which is still produced locally.
In the 15th century the town
was a feudal holding of the
Erdödy family, who built an
imposing castle on a square
ground-plan with round towers
at the corners and an internal
porticoed courtyard. Two
centuries later it was altered
and turned into a residential
building which is now closed
to the public.
The Baroque Church of St
Nicholas (Sv. Nikola; 1772–75)
contains a fresco by Rašica and
the tomb of Petar Erdödy (1567).
Ruins of the fortified town of Okić, perched on a hilltop In the Church of St Mary
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and p247


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Date 1st October 2013
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CENTR AL CRO A TIA  177


(Sv. Marija; 1740), originally the building was abandoned
Dominican and later Franciscan, but in 1971 it became a
the altars are all Baroque. The museum. Exhibits explain
painting on the altar dedicated the history of the fort and
to Mary is by Valentin Metzinger local area and there are some
and dates from 1735. Glagolitic inscriptions.
+ Castle and Museum
4 Ozalj Cesta Zrinskih i Frankopana 2. n (047)
732 271. Open 8am–8pm Mon–Fri,
Map C2. * 1,200. £ (047) 731 158. 10am–8pm Sat & Sun. &
@ Karlovac, (060) 338 833, Ozalj,
(047) 731107. n Kurilovac 1, (047)
731 196. _ Day of the city (30 Apr); 5 Karlovac
Summer evenings in Ozalj (15–20
Aug). ∑ ozalj-tz.hr Map C2. * 55,000. £ (060) 333 444.
@ (060) 338 833. n Local: Ulica
A castle (Stari grad) which Petra Zrinskog 3, (047) 615 115;
belonged to royalty once Regional: A Vraniczanya 6, (047) 615
stood on this rocky spur. It 320. ∑ karlovac-touristinfo.hr
was built in the 13th century _ Spring Promenades (May);
to monitor the roads and the St John’s Bonfires (Jun); International
traffic on the river Kupa which folk festival (Jul); Beer festival (Aug).
flows below it. The castle was
strengthened by the Babonić Today Karlovac is an industrial
counts and was also the city and an important junction
property of the Frankopan for roads to Slovenia. It
family and, in the late 16th originated as a bulwark
century, of Juraj Zrinski. After against Turkish raids, but was
the Ottoman threat had actually founded in 1579 by
passed, a village grew up the Archduke of Austria,
around the castle which had Charles of Habsburg, from
become a residential manor. whom the town gets
Parts of the fortress its name. Clock tower of the Church of the Holy Trinity
remain visible: two The town was in Karlovac
encircling walls with planned by the
five semi circular Italian N Angelini The Catholic Church of the Holy
towers. Next to as a city-fort at the Trinity (Presvetoga Trojstvo) dates
these are some more confluence of the mainly from 1683–92 with an
recent buildings: the rivers Korana and 18th-century clock tower (1795).
granary (palas) (16th Kupa. The layout The church has an elaborate
century) and a Gothic was based on a six- black marble altar made by
family chapel. The Coat of arms, Civic pointed star with Michele Cussa in 1698. The
main building, on Museum, Karlovac bastions and moats Orthodox Church of St Nicholas
several levels, was which have now (Sv. Nikola) dates from 1786.
renovated in 1928 by the been transformed into public To the east the city now
Thurn und Taxis family who gardens. The interior contained extends as far as Dubovac
had inherited it. For a time 24 buildings, all similar, all of Castle, a medieval construction.
which are still preserved today – Once used as a hotel, it is being
although they are used for restored to its original design.
different purposes.
The heart of the city is Stross- E Civic Museum
mayer Square with the Baroque Strossmayerov trg 7. Tel (047) 615 980.
Frankopan Palace which houses Open 8am–4pm Tue, Thu & Fri, 8am–
the Civic Museum (Gradski m 7pm Wed, 10am–4pm Sat, 10am–
uzej). The archaeological and noon Sun. & 8 by appt. ∑ gmk.hr
ethnographic collections E The Vjekoslav Karas Gallery
document the city’s history. Ljudevita Šestića 3. Tel (047) 615 980.
In the square Trg Bana Jelačića Open during exhibitions: 8am–4pm
is a Franciscan monastery. Tue & Thu, 8am–7pm Wed & Fri,
The Vjekoslav Karas Gallery 10am–4pm Sat, 10am–noon Sun.
was built in 1975 in the New R Holy Trinity
Centre. It uses its attractive Trg bana Jelačića 7. Tel (047) 615
Ozalj Castle, once owned by the Frankopans display space for both visual 950/1. Open before Mass. Other
and Juraj Zrinski art and museum exhibitions. times by appt.




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178  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


rivers). The abbey was founded town after a bloody battle in
in 1204 by King Andrew II and a which Emperor Augustus was
village grew up around it in the wounded. After the conquest of
Middle Ages. The remains can the Balkans, the emperor made
be found in Opatovina Park. it the capital of the Pannonia
The nearby hot water springs Savia province and it became
(up to 78°C/172°F) were used in a trading centre.
Roman times and in the 19th It was destroyed by Attila in
century a thermal spa was 441, and in the 6th century it
established, which was was raided by the Avars and
frequented by the Emperor Slavs. The town was finally
Franz Joseph and other rebuilt by the Croats
court dignitaries. Today and became Sisak.
the spa treats rheumatic It was from here that
15th-century castle of the Frankopan and neurological Prince Ljudevit began the
counts in Ogulin problems, and the after- conquest of Croatia in
effects of incapacitating the 8th century. Sisak was
6 Ogulin injuries. The spa has three destroyed again by the
main thermal sources Hungarians in the 10th
Map C2. * 9,000. £ (047) 525 001.
n Kardinala A. Stepinca 1, (047) 532 and the water comes century, and was also
278. ∑ tz-grada-ogulina.hr from a depth of 1,500 m abandoned by the
(4,920 ft). The quality of Hercules (1st bishop, who transferred
When Marshal Tito was the water has not century AD), the see to Zagreb, but
imprisoned here in 1927 and changed since the 19th Sisak museum built a fort here. In 1593
1933 (see p44), this town became century. There are two this fort was the site of a
well known throughout Croatia. hotels in Topusko and a number battle which resulted in the first
The prison was part of a castle of private accommodations. Turkish defeat in the Balkans.
built by the Frankopan counts The town rose again nearby
in the 15th century. The castle and began to enjoy a long period
walls enclosed a large building 8 Sisak of prosperity, thanks to tolls on
with two tall towers at the ends, Map D2. * 37,000. £ (044) 524 724. river traffic. It still has some
a Gothic chapel and several @ (060) 330 060. n Rimska ulica 13a, Baroque buildings, including
houses which were built when (044) 522 655. ∑ sisakturist.com the old and new town halls.
Ogulin became a staging post A park surrounds the fortress
on the Vojna krajina (Military The city of Sisak, at the point (Stari grad) on the River Kupa,
Frontier, see p41) in 1627. Part where the rivers Kupa and Odra south of the city. The fortress
of the structure is given over to flow into the Sava, has always was built in the middle of the
the Regional Museum which played an important role in 16th century at the time of
has sections on archaeology, Croatian history. Its name has the Turkish invasions. It has a
folklore and mountaineering. changed a number of times triangular ground plan, with three
It also comprises Ivana’s House over the course of its 2,000 large round brick towers (1544–
of Fairy Tales, an interactive years of existence. It originated 55), connected by a high wall
visitor’s centre that celebrates as the Illyrian-Celtic Segestica, with openings for firearms. In
fairy tales and their creators. becoming Siscia with the the park is a beautiful traditional
A short distance from the Romans, and later Colonia Flavia farmhouse. The Civic Museum
fortified town is the Old Castle Siscia. Rome conquered the (Gradski muzej) has material
(Zulumgrad) situated near the from the Roman settlement.
Ðula abyss, a chasm formed by
the Dobra river. + Fortress
Tome Bakača Erdödyja. n (044) 811
811. Open contact for info.
7 Topusko Toplice E Civic Museum
Map D2. * 800. @ from Zagreb, Kralja Tomislava 10. Tel (044) 811 811.
Sisak, Karlovac. n Trg bana Jelačića 4, Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri,
(044) 885 203. _ Days of Honey (Feb); 9am–noon Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar:
Folklore Day (Jun); Half Marathon 7:30am–3:30pm Tue–Fri. & ^
(Aug). ∑ turizam-topusko.com ∑ muzej-sisak.hr
The presence of a Cistercian Environs
abbey made this a centre for About 20 km (12 miles) south-
spreading Christianity in the west is Gora which, in the
Banovina area (a region of Middle Ages, was the centre of
green valleys south of Sisak, Fortress of Sisak next to the Kupa river, built a Županija (county) of the same
between the Sava and Glina in the 16th century name. The county seat was a
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and p247


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CENTR AL CRO A TIA  179


castle which appears in
documents in 1242, but which
was destroyed by the Turks in
1578. The Gothic Church of the
Assumption of the Blessed
Virgin Mary (Uznesenja Blažene
Djevice Marije) was also badly
damaged and was restored in
the 18th century in the Baroque
style. The church has chapels
on all corners and resembles a
castle, with a marble altar and
pulpit inside.
9 Hrvatska
Kostajnica
Map D2. * 2,000. £ from Zagreb, The tulip-shaped monument by Bogdanović in Jasenovac Memorial Site
Sisak. @ from Zagreb, Sisak.
n Vladimira Nazora 17, (044) 851 800. to the Bribir princes of Šubić. Bogdan Bogdanović now stands
A branch of the family took the in what was formerly the camp’s
Standing on the left bank of the name of Zrinski after the village centre. The monument and the
River Una which, for much of its around the castle. It was Memorial Museum are part of
length, marks the border occupied by the Turks from Jasenovac Memorial Site.
between Croatia and Bosnia- 1577 until the end of the 17th
Herzegovina, this town still bears century when they destroyed it.
the signs of damage from the The Zrinskis played a key role
war in the 1990s. By the river, in Croatia’s history: as fierce
near a bridge, is a renovated defenders against the Turks;
castle built in the Middle Ages then as the authors of the failed
but frequently razed. Only three attempt to free the territory
towers connected by a high from Habsburg rule (see p181).
wall remain in the wake of
the last war. The Church and
Monastery of St Anthony of 0 Jasenovac
Padua, built after the Turks left Map E2. * 800. £ from Sisak.
at the end of the 17th century, @ from Sisak. n Trg kralja Petra
have been restored and are Svačića 3, (044) 672 490.
discreetly furnished (some of Church of St Luke in Novska
the Baroque altars were famous This town is notorious as the
for their beauty). place where, during World War II, q Novska
tens of thousands of prisoners Map E2. * 7,500. £ from Zagreb,
Environs of war, Jews, Gypsies, Serbs Sisak, (044) 892 421. @ from Zagreb,
Around 14 km (9 miles) to the and Croats, perished in the Sisak. n Ulica kralja Tomislava 2,
southwest is Zrin, where the concentration camp which was (044) 600 062.
ruins of a castle built in the 14th located here. In memory of this
century by the Babonić family terrible genocide, a large tulip- The town of Novska is the
stand on a hill. In 1347 it passed shaped monument by the artist starting point for visiting the
Lonjsko Polje Nature Park (see
p180) and for excursions to the
Psunj mountains. A number of
recreational sports can be
enjoyed here too.
The Church of St Luke
(Sv. Luka) is a Baroque church
dating from 1775. It has a fine
altar and a painting by the
modern painter Z Šulentić.
In the Bauer Gallery there
are many works by Naive
and contemporary artists.
Novska’s economy is based on
industry and trade, and rail and
The castle of medieval origins in Kostajnica, on the banks of the Una road links are good.




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180  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

e Kutina Environs
Around 50 km (31 miles) north-
Map D2. * 15,000. £ (060) 333 444.
@ (060) 355 060. n Tržna 8, (044) west of Kutina is Ivanić-Grad
681 004. ∑ turizam-kutina.hr and the nearby towns of Kloštar
Ivanić and Križ. In Ivanić-Grad
Kutina, in the Moslavina region, there are workshops making
was built over the ruins of a pretty flax and linen products,
Roman castrum (a Roman keeping local traditions alive.
military camp or fort) and In Kloštar Ivanić there
numerous archaeological finds is a Franciscan monastery
have been discovered. The founded in 1508 and the
town is linked to two castles; church of St Mary (Sv. Marija),
Kutinjac Grad, documented with collections of silver,
in 1256, and the fortress of paintings and richly illustrated
Plovdin; however, only ruins music codices.
and parts of the walls remain. In Križ, the parish church
Nesting storks in the Lonjsko Polje Kutina flourished again in of the Cross was founded by
Nature Park the 17th century, developing the Knights Templar in the
on the plain south of the 11th century. The church has a
w Lonjsko Polje fortress. It is here that the decorative Baroque interior and
Nature Park Church of Our Lady of the a magnificent 1787 organ.
Snow (Marija Snježna) was
Map D2. Park office (Krapje): n (044) built by Count Karl Erdödy in
672 080. Entrance at Čigoć: n (044) around 1770. The church is
715 115. Open Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm surrounded by a covered
daily; Nov–Mar: by appt. &
∑ pp-lonjsko-polje.hr portico and is decorated inside
with stucco and trompe-l’oeil
The wide bend in the River paintings by Josip Görner. The
Sava between Sisak and Stara sculpture and the inlaid
Gradiška has been a special wooden furnishings which
ornithological reserve since enclose the altar of the Holy
1963. It became a nature Sepulchre are a unique example
reserve in 1990 to protect an of Baroque composition.
area of 506 sq km (195 sq miles). Erdödy Castle, which was
This vast area was regula rly rebuilt in 1895, houses the
flooded by the river and its Museum of Moslavina
tributaries (Lonja, Ilova, Pakra (Muzej Moslavine), which Some remains of the old fortifications
and Čazma) during the thaw, tells the history and folklore around Garić
and in the summer and early of Moslavina through an
autumn the waters would extensive collection of r Garić
recede. Since the 1960s parts docu ments, objects and Map D2. * 76 (Podgarić).
of the wetlands have been traditional costumes. n Regional: Dr. Ante Starčevića 8,
drained, but they still remain Bjelovar, (043) 221 928.
some of Europe’s most E Museum of Moslavina
important marshland. Trg kralja Tomislava 13. Tel (044) 683 On a hill in the Moslavačka
Woods of oak, poplar, ash and 548. Open 8am–1pm Tue–Fri. chain (Moslavačka Gora) near
willow trees grow along the Podgarić stand the ruins of the
banks of the river and on the fortified town of Garić, noted
higher ground, while the dry as a castrum in 1256. In 1277,
fields are used as grazing for it was granted by the king to
sheep in the summer months. Timotej, Bishop of Zagreb, who
Wild boar live here, as well as entrusted its defence to the
deer, and there are also counts of Gardun, and later to
Turopolje pigs and Posavina the counts of Celje. Nearby,
horses, both of which are below Garić, the Pauline order
protected species. founded the monastery of
The park is an important St Mary in 1295. In 1544 the
stopping place for black storks, town and the monastery were
which arrive in spring and leave destroyed by the Turks.
in autumn after nesting, for The fortified town was
numerous species of heron, for protected by high walls and was
egrets and a variety of birds of an irregular shape. There was a
prey, including the rare harrier Interior of the Church of Our Lady of the moat with towers, and further
and white-tailed eagles. Snow in Kutina towers inside the walls.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and p247


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

CENTR AL CRO A TIA  181


The Zrinski and Frankopan Dynasties

Dujam, count of Krk, died in 1163 and his descendants took the name of Frankopan
(Frangere Panem) after Venice confirmed the family’s rule over Krk. They were allied with
Venice until 1480 when they were forced to surrender the island. However, they still had
vast estates given to them by the Hungarian kings. The Šubić family became counts of
Bribir when they were granted the town by King Andrew II in 1290, and counts of Zrinski
in 1347 when they were obliged to move to Zrin (see p179). The execution of the Ban of
Croatia, Petar Zrinski, and his brother-in-law Fran Krsto Frankopan in 1671 ended the two
most powerful Croatian dynasties. The Habsburgs confiscated their property and the
Zrinski line died out. A branch of the Frankopan family still survives in Friuli, Italy.

Fran Krsto Frankopan Krsto Frankopan,
(1643–1671), great- (1480?–1527), son of
grandson of Krsto Bernard, Ban of Croatia,
Frankopan and Mario and Louise of Aragon,
Frangipane’s heir was Emperor Maximilian’s
(the Roman branch general in the war against
of the family), was Venice in the early 16th
publicly executed in century. He was imprisoned
Wiener Neustadt in in Milan and died fighting
1671, for his part in a for the indepen dence of
plot against the Empire. Hungary, of which Croatia
was part.

Fran Krsto
Frankopan awaiting
execution



Petar Zrinski



Execution of the Rebels
On 30 April 1671, in the town square in Wiener Neustadt, the Ban of
Croatia, Petar Zrinski, and his brother-in-law, Krsto Frankopan, were
beheaded on charges of high treason on the orders of Emperor Leopold I.
The two brothers-in-law had attempted to form a coalition of the
Croatian feudal lords in order to limit Austro-Hungarian influence.



Petar Zrinski was the Ban
(governor) from 1664, and
the leader of the movement
which sought to limit
Habsburg activity in Croatia.
The attempted revolt was
Nikola Zrinski fought foiled by betrayals and the
against the Turks and was promise of a possible
a defender of Christianity. agreement. The two leaders
He died in the Battle of Siget went to Vienna to negotiate
in 1566, after he refused the with the Emperor. When they
sultan’s offer to make him reached the capital they were
Governor of Croatia if he imprisoned, and a few months
abandoned the Emperor. later were beheaded.
Tranquil waterways through Lonjsko Polje Nature Park



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CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA  185

SLAVONIA AND BARANJA


The easternmost part of northern Croatia, between Hungary, Serbia and
Bosnia-Herzegovina, is one of the most fertile areas of Europe, known as the
“granary of Croatia”. The landscape of Slavonia and Baranja is characterized
by expanses of wheat and maize fields and hills covered with vineyards or
ancient woods. The main city, Osijek, is famous for its fortified centre.

First inhabited by the Illyrians, present- until 1689. To confront the constant
day Slavonia and Baranja came into disputes between the Turks and the Holy
contact with the Roman world in the Roman Empire, the Habsburgs set up a
2nd century BC. It took the Romans more Military Frontier (Vojna krajina), which
than 200 years to subdue the inhabitants lasted until 1881, when Austria-Hungary
of this region, which they referred to as took Bosnia-Herzegovina from the
Pannonia. From 402 Pannonia was Turks. The frontier was abolished and
invaded, first by the Goths, then the absorbed into Croatia.
Huns, Visigoths, Burgundians, Gepids, When war broke out in 1991, the
Longobards, Sarmatians and finally the presence of Serb villages was a pretext
Avars. When the Slavs arrived, very little for the Serbian occupation of Slavonia.
remained of Roman rule, and the land, In 1995, under the auspices of the United
ever since then called Slavonia, was Nations, control of Slavonia reverted back
practically uninhabited. to the Croatians. Although war damage is
In 925 the Kingdom of the Croat still visible along the border, particularly in
Sovereigns was set up and this lasted Vukovar, great efforts are being made with
until 1097, when King Koloman came to rebuilding and Slavonia is once again well
rule Slavonia and created the Hungarian- worth visiting for its historical treasures. It
Croat kingdom. Following the Battle of is also an area of great natural beauty and
Mohács in 1526, Slavonia became part of includes the nature reserve of Kopački rit,
the Ottoman Empire, and remained so a wetlands sanctuary for wildfowl.


























Local people in the typical traditional costumes of the region
Fresco in the 18th-century church of St Francis in Požega



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186  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Slavonia and Baranja

Slavonia, the region between the rivers Sava, Drava and
Danube, is made up of a vast rolling alluvial plain with chains
of hills at its edges which are covered in woods and vineyards.
At one time the rivers turned the area into an enormous swamp
for many months of the year. Baranja is a triangular area of
land in the far northeast, bordered at the extreme tip by
the rivers Drava and Danube and the Hungarian border.
The plains are covered in fields of maize and the hills are
given over to viticulture. In the southern corner, the Drava
river regularly overflows from spring
to autumn to create a broad area
of marshland, now the Kopački Varaždin
Rit Nature Park. The park is an Pitomača
important wildlife sanctuary, a
refuge for hundreds of different Neteča Baroque belfry of
Drava
species of bird, including the Špišić Gradina St Roch in Virovitica
rare black stork. B i l o G o r a Bukovica TOPOLJE
On the right bank of the Drava VIROVITICA Batina
river is Slavonia’s main city, Osijek. Suhopolje Beli
It has wide avenues, parks, and Viljevo DONJI MIHOLJAC Manastir Danube
19th-century, Viennese-style Slatina Čađavica Kneževi
Vinogradi
buildings, as well as a VIROVITIČKO- Drava
Neo-Gothic cathedral. PODRAVSKA VALPOVO
Voćin Ceralije Čačinci Petnjevci DARDA
DARUVAR BIZOVAC KOPAČKI RIT
Bilje NATURE PARK
OSIJEK
P a p u k
ORAHOVICA Feričanci Brođanci Čepin
Velika OSJEČKO- Tenja ERDUT
NAŠICE Antunovac Dalj
Sights at a Glance Pakrac Kamenska BARANJSKA
1 Daruvar KUTJEVO Vuka
2 Lipik LIPIK P s u n j ERNESTINOVO
POŽEŠKO-SLAVONSKA
3 Nova Gradiška Borovo
Jakšić
4 Požega Brestovac POŽEGA Jarmina Nuštar VUKOVAR
5 Kutjevo Zagreb ĐAKOVO
6 Slavonski Brod NOVA Pleternica NOVI MIKANOVCI Ivankovo VINKOVCI Danube
7 Vrpolje GRADIŠKA Staro Petrovo Selo Rokovci
ŠARENGRAD
8 Ðakovo Orijava VRPOLJE VUKOVARSKO- ILOK
Donji
9 Novi Mikanovci BRODSKO-POSAVSKA Podvinje Andrijevci Cerna SRIJEMSKA
0 Županja Banja Luka Oriovac SLAVONSKI Velika Gradište Tovarnik
q Vinkovci BROD Kopanica Babina Greda Otok
w Ilok
e Šarengrad ŽUPANJA Bosut Belgrade
r Vukovar
t Erdut Zenica
y Osijek pp194–7 Sarajevo
u Ernestinovo
i Kopački Rit Nature Park
pp198–9 Gunja
o Topolje
p Darda
a Bizovac
s Valpovo
d Donji Miholjac
f Našice
g Orahovica
h Virovitica The countryside around Slavonski Brod
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8
186-187_EW_Croatia.indd 186 20/10/16 12:34 pm

SLA VONIA AND BAR ANJA  187


Getting Around HUNGARY
For many years Osijek was a rail, road and river junction of SLOVENIA • ZAGREB
some importance. Since the war in the 1990s, rail and river
traffic has become less significant. However, Osijek is still the
BOSNIA-
centre of the road system in the area and, thanks to a good HERZEGOVINA
network, the city can easily be reached from Slavonia and
Baranja using state road number 2 heading south from ADRIATIC
SEA
Varaždin, or the same number 2 road north from Vukovar
and the E73 from Hungary. There is also an efficient public
bus service. About 7 km (4 miles) from Osijek there is a Locator Map
domestic airport with daily connections to Zagreb.
Osijek itself has an excellent tram service which
makes it easy to get around the city.
Varaždin
Pitomača
Drava
Neteča
Špišić
Bukovica Gradina TOPOLJE
VIROVITICA Batina
B i l o G o r a
Suhopolje
Beli
Manastir
Viljevo DONJI MIHOLJAC Danube
Čađavica Kneževi
Slatina Drava Vinogradi Traditional costumes of Bizovac
VIROVITIČKO-
PODRAVSKA VALPOVO
Voćin Ceralije Čačinci Petnjevci DARDA
DARUVAR BIZOVAC KOPAČKI RIT
Bilje NATURE PARK
OSIJEK
P a p u k
ORAHOVICA Feričanci Brođanci Čepin
Velika OSJEČKO- Tenja ERDUT
NAŠICE BARANJSKA Antunovac Dalj
Pakrac Kamenska
P s u n j Borovo 0 miles 15
LIPIK KUTJEVO Vuka ERNESTINOVO 0 kilometres 15
POŽEŠKO-SLAVONSKA
Brestovac Jakšić VUKOVAR
Zagreb POŽEGA Jarmina Nuštar
ĐAKOVO Ivankovo
NOVA Pleternica NOVI MIKANOVCI VINKOVCI Danube
GRADIŠKA Staro Petrovo Selo Rokovci ŠARENGRAD
BRODSKO-POSAVSKA Orijava Podvinje Andrijevci VRPOLJE Cerna VUKOVARSKO- ILOK
Donji
Banja Luka Oriovac SLAVONSKI Velika Gradište SRIJEMSKA Tovarnik
BROD
Kopanica Babina Greda Otok
ŽUPANJA Bosut Belgrade
Zenica
Sarajevo
Key
Gunja
Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
International border Ruins of Grad Ružica, near Orahovica
For keys to symbols see back flap


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188  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

1 Daruvar
Map E2. * 10,000. k Osijek, 130 km
(81 miles); Zagreb, 150 km (93 miles).
£ @ n Trg kralja Tomislava 12,
(043) 331 382. _ Wine exhibi tion
(May/June). ∑ visitdaruvar.hr
This spa town was known as
Aquae Balissae in the time of
the Roman Empire for the
quality of its hot water spring,
the source of which is at the
foot of the Papuk mountains.
The town developed from
three medieval settlements.
In 1760 the area was bought
by a Hungarian count, Antun
Janković, who built a Baroque
castle he named Daruvar, and Baroque building in Požega’s main square
the first spa. Today, Daruvar
(meaning “city of the crane”) 3 Nova Gradiška 4 Požega
has hotels, a medical centre Map E2. * 13,300. k Osijek, 93 km Map E2. * 21,000. k Osijek, 67 km
(Daruvarske toplice) offering the (58 miles); Zagreb, 155 km (96 miles). (42 miles); Zagreb, 175 km (109 miles).
spa waters, the Daruvar wine £ (035) 361 610. @ (035) 361 219. £ (034) 273 911. @ (034) 273 133.
road and a thermal water park, n Slavonskih graničara 7, (035) 361 n Antuna Kanižlića 3, (034) 274 900.
Aquae Balissae. 494. ∑ tzgng.hr _ Feast of St Gregory (12 Mar), Music
There are two 18th-century Festival Aurea Fest (early Sep).
churches in the town, one In 1748 this town was first ∑ pozega-tz.hr
Catholic and one Orthodox. founded as Fredrichsdorf by
Daruvar is also a centre for the the Viennese, who planned to The Romans first founded this
Czech people in Croatia, who build a fortress here. The town, town, a halfway settlement
maintain the Czech language situated at the foot of Mount between the towns now called
and customs. Psunj, is built on a fertile plain. Sisak and Osijek, with the name
An agricultural market is of Incerum. In the 11th century
 Spa regularly held in the main it was one of the centres from
Julijev Park. Tel (043) 623 620. square, which is lined with which the heretical movement
Baroque buildings. of the Bogomili spread; after
The Neo-Classical Church their repression in the 12th
2 Lipik of St Stephen of Hungary century, properties in the
(Sv. Stjepan Kralj) is now the environs of the city were granted
Map E2. * 2,300. k Osijek, 93 km
(58 miles); Zagreb, 155 km (96 miles). Immaculate Conception. The to the Templars by King Bela IV.
£ @ from Zagreb. n Trg kralja Baroque Sanctuary of St Theresa In 1285 the Franciscans
Tomislava 3, (034) 421 600. _ June in (Sv. Terezija) dates from 1756. founded a monastery, the church
Lipik (Jun). of which was used as a mosque
R Immaculate Conception during the Turkish occupation. In
The spa area (Aquae Balissae) Aloizija Stepinca 1. Tel (035) 362 203. the 18th and 19th centuries the
was known in Roman times for Open 8am–6pm daily. town was called the “Athens of
its waters. In the late 18th Slavonia” for the cultural events
century a hot water spring, rich held to commemorate the
in minerals, was rediscov ered expulsion of the Turks in 1691.
and Lipik became one of the The city took on a new look
most famous spas in Croatia. It during this period: in the main
was especially popular between square, Trg Sv. Trojstva, buildings
the two World Wars. Lipik was with stucco and Baroque
damaged in the 1991 war, but porticoes were built.
a new spa has been built and In the square stands a column,
the hotels and medical centres a memorial to plague victims
restored. Lipik is also known for made in 1749 by Gabrijel
breed ing the famous Lipizzaner Granicije. To one side of the
horses; its horse-riding and cycle square is the renovated 18th-
trails are popular with visitors. century Church of St Francis
(Sv. Franjo). The monastery
 Spa (Toplice) Baroque Sanctuary of St Theresa in along side still houses a com-
Marije Terezije 13. Tel (034) 440 700. Nova Gradiška munity of Franciscan monks.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8


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(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
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SLA VONIA AND BAR ANJA  189


Interesting examples of Baroque 5 Kutjevo
architecture in the town include Map F2. * 2,800. k Osijek 62 km
the Jesuit College (1711) and (38 miles). £ Našice, 27 km (17 miles).
Gymnasium (1726), opened by n Trg graševine 1, (034) 315 008.
the Jesuits who, in 1761, also _ City Day (8 Sep). ∑ kutjevo.hr
founded the Požega Academy.
Dating from 1763, the Church of A wine-producing centre, the
St Theresa (Sv. Terezija Avilska) town is famous for a winery
became a cathedral in 1997. The founded by the Cistercians. In
frescoed walls are by Celestin 1232, the order built a monastery
Medović and Oton Iveković. here and encouraged the culti-
The Church of St Lawrence vation of vines. After Turkish rule,
(Sv. Lovro, 14th century) was at the end of the 17th century,
renovated in Baroque style in Jesuits took over the monastery
the early 18th century. It still and wine-making resumed. The
has some 14th-century Cistercian cellars are still Baroque altar in Holy Trinity Church in
frescoes. There are also intact and wine is still Slavonski Brod
tombstones testifying an important industry.
to the city’s glory; one The Jesuits also belonged to the counts
is for the poet Antun built the Church Berislavić-Grabarski from the
Kanižlić (1699–1777). of the Nativity of Middle Ages to 1526 when it
In the square between the Blessed Virgin was conquered by the Turks,
the Church of Mary (Crkva rođenja who occupied it until 1691.
St Francis and the 14th-century fresco in the Blažene Djevice To defend the border, in 1741
Gymnasium is a church of St Lawrence, Marije) in 1732, the Viennese government built
statue of Luka Požega which houses a a fort with barracks, residences
Ibrišimović, a Francis- painting of the for governors and religious
can who distinguished himself Madonna with Child by buildings. Damaged during
in the battles against the Turks. A Cebej (1759). World War II and again in the
The Civic Museum (Gradski war in 1991, the build ings are
muzej) contains an assortment under repair: some are used as
of archaeological finds, 6 Slavonski Brod schools and others house
Romanesque reliefs and Map F3. * 60,000. k Osijek, 100 km museums and galleries.
Baroque paintings. (62 miles); Zagreb, 197 km (122 miles). The town has grown beyond
Every year on 12 March £ (060) 333 444. @ Trg Hrvatskog the original ramparts. Along
Požega holds an event called proljeća, (060) 310 310. n Local: the banks of the Sava is a
Grgurevo, to commemorate Vukovarska 1, (099) 320 41 69. Franciscan Monastery, dating
a local victory over the Turks Regional: Petra Krešimira IV 2, (035) from 1725, which has been
won in 1688. 408 393. _ Brodsko kolo: folk festival renovated, and the Baroque
(mid-Jun). ∑ tzgsb.hr Church of the Holy Trinity
R St Theresa (Sv. Trojstvo) with many statues,
Trg sv. Terezije 13. Tel (034) 274 321. Built on the site of the paintings and altars.
Open 8am–noon, 3–6pm daily. Roman town Marsonia, this The Regional Civic Museum
E Civic Museum town was placed so as to (Muzej Brodskog Posavlja)
Matice hrvatske 1. Tel (034) 272 130. monitor the traffic on the river contains historic documents and
Open 9am–2pm Mon–Fri, by appt Sava, the border with Bosnia- archaeological, geological and
Sat & Sun. Herzegovina. The town ethnological finds from the region.
The well-known Croatian
writer Ivana Brlić-Mažuranić
(1874–1938) spent much of her
life in this town. She wrote
fairytales for children: among
her most famous works are
Fisherman Palunco, Jagor and The
Forest of Stribor. The town is also
known for its folklore festival
(Brodsko kolo) held in June.

E Regional Civic Museum
Ulica Ante Starčevića 40. Tel (035) 447
415. Open 10am–1pm, 5–8pm Mon–
Fri, 10am–1pm Sun. Closed Sat & 25
Dec, 1 Jan. 8 (by appt). = No flash
Cloisters of the Franciscan monastery at Slavonski Brod photography. ∑ muzejbp.hr




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190  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


9 Novi Mikanovci
Map F2. * 700. k Osijek, 50 km
(31 miles). £ Stari Mikanovci, 3 km
(2 miles). n (032) 338 425.
The village is famous for the
small Romanesque Church of
St Bartholomew (Sveti Bartol),
from the first half of the 13th
century, a rare example of
architecture from before Turkish
rule. The church stands in a
cemetery and is called the
“Tower of Pisa of Slavonia”
because of its leaning bell
tower, which appears to be
held up by the façade. At the
View of the 19th-century red-brick Cathedral of St Peter in Ðakovo cemetery entrance is a colourful
statue of St Bartholomew.
7 Vrpolje mosque, at the end of the
central avenue, was retained.
Map F3. * 2,200. k Osijek, 0 Županja
39 km (24 miles). @ from Osijek. It was converted into the parish
n Regional: Petra Krešimira IV, 2, church of All Saints (Svi Sveti) in Map F3. * 14,000. k Osijek, 67 km
Slavonski Brod (035) 408 393. the 18th century. (41 miles). £ (032) 831 183. n Veliki
The central square is kraj 66, (032) 830 299. _ Folklore
A small country town, Vrpolje dominated by the Cathedral Festival, Šokačko sijelo (Feb).
is known as the birthplace of of St Peter (Sv. Petar), built ∑ tz-zupanja.hr
the sculptor Ivan Meštrović between 1866 and 1882 by
(1883–1962) (see p163). Many Bishop Josip Juraj Strossmayer; On the border with Bosnia-
of the artist’s works, donated the project was the work of Herzegovina, Županja lies along
to the town he held in great the Viennese architects Karl a wide bend in the Sava River.
affection, can be seen here. Rösner and Friedrich von The area has been inhabited
In the small parish Church of Schmidt. The imposing façade since ancient times; Bronze
St John the Baptist (Sveti Ivan is flanked by two 84-m (275-ft) Age finds have been discovered
Krstitelj, 1774) is his statue of belfries. The interior has frescoes in a necropolis. One of the first
St John the Baptist, a relief by Maksimilijan and Ljudevit Croat settlements was set
and a crucifix, while outside Seitz, sculptures by Ignazio up here. After Turkish rule
is a striking Bust of a Woman. Donegani and Tomas Vodcka, it became one of the military
The Ivan Meštrović Gallery and decorations by Giuseppe staging posts on the Vojna
(Spomen galerija) has 30 of his Voltolini from the 19th century. krajina (Military Frontier)
works on display: casts, bronzes The crypt houses (see p41) and a trading centre.
and wooden sculptures. the tombs of the bishops The Frontier House is a
Strossmayer and Ivan de Zela. wooden building originally
Next to the church is the 18th- from the early 19th century,
8 Ðakovo century Bishop’s Palace, which used by tax collectors.
has an ornate Baroque doorway. Damaged during the bombings
Map F2. * 21,000. k Osijek, 48 km The Festival of Embroidery
(22 miles). £ (031) 811 360. @ (060)
302 030. n Kralja Tomislava 3, (031) of Ðakovo (Ðakovački vezovi)
812 319. _ Ðakovo embroidery, is held at the beginning of July
Ðakovački vezovi (first week in Jul). with displays of traditional
∑ tzdjakovo.eu local costumes, folk dancing
and wine tasting.
In medieval times this town was Ðakovo has a long-lasting
known by the name of Civitas tradition of horse-breeding. The
Dyaco, and later as Castrum State Stud Farm was established
Dyaco. Late in the 13th century here in 1506, which makes it
it became a bishopric, and its one of the oldest stud farms
influence extended over in Europe. Lipizzan horses have
most of Slavonia and Bosnia. been bred at this farm since the
Conquered and destroyed by beginning of the 18th century.
the Turks in 1536, it became a
Muslim centre and a mosque R Cathedral of St Peter
was built. After Turkish rule, the Strossmayerov trg. Tel (031) 802 200. Embroidered head-dress in the
city was renovated. Only the Open 6:30am–noon, 3–7pm daily. Ethnographic Museum, Županja
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8


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SLA VONIA AND BAR ANJA  191


in the 1990s and now restored, Around the middle of the
it houses the Ethnographic 15th century, the Church and
Museum (Zavičajni muzej Monastery of St Ivan Kapistran
“Stjepan Gruber”). (Sv. Ivan Kapistran) were built
inside the fort. Ivan Kapistran
E Ethnographic Museum was a Franciscan who was
Savska 3. Tel (032) 837 101. Open 7am– famous for uniting Christian
7pm Mon–Fri, 5–7pm Sat & Sun. & forces against the Turks and
8 (by appt). who died here in 1456. When
Ilok became a major Turkish
q Vinkovci administrative and military
Map F2. * 33,000. k Osijek, 43 km centre in the 16th century,
(27 miles). £ (032) 308 215. @ (060) mosques and baths were
332 233. n Local: Trg bana Josipa added to the fortress.
Šokčevića 3, (032) 334 653; Regional: Both the church and
Glagoljaška 27, (032) 338 425. the monastery have been
_ Roman Days in Vinkovci (May); renovated and between them,
Autumn in Vinkovci, Vinkovačke jeseni Church of St Ivan, next to the fortified long stretches of the ancient
(Sep). ∑ tz-vinkovci.hr walls in Ilok walls can still be seen. Parts of
one of the Turkish baths are
A settlement existed here as far w Ilok still visible.
back as 6000 BC; the Romans Map G2. * 6,000. k Osijek, 62 km In 1683, after his role in
named it Aurelia Cibalae. It was (38 miles). £ Vukovar, 39 km winning the battle of Vienna,
the birthplace of the Emperors (24 miles). n Trg Nikole Iločkog 2, Commander Livio Odescalchi
Valens and Valentinian, and a (032) 590 020. _ Grape harvest was given the town of Ilok
bishop’s see from the 4th festival (first week in Sep). by the Austrian Emperor.
century. In the Middle Ages it ∑ turizamilok.hr In this idyllic setting he built a
was called Zenthelye, because U-shaped mansion, Odescalchi
of the presence of the (now Overlooking a wide loop Manor. Today, the mansion
abandoned) Church of St Elias in the River Danube, Ilok is the houses public offices and the
(Sv. Ilija). The 12th-century easternmost city in Croatia Civic Museum (Gradski muzej)
church is one of the oldest and the centre of the region with archaeological and
monuments in Slavonia. of Srijem, famous since Roman ethnographic collections. The
The Civic Museum (Gradski times for its wine. In the late wines of Ilok are still produced
muzej), situated in the Roman era the city here in the cellars, among them
former 18th-century grew in importance a dry white wine called Traminac.
Austrian barracks and took the name
in the main of Cuccium. R Church and Monastery of
square, holds finds In the Middle St Ivan Kapistran
from the Roman Ages it was a O M Barbarića 4. Tel (032) 590 073.
necropolis and has castrum with high Open by appt or before Mass.
a folklore collection. walls, towers and E Odescalchi Manor and
Large Roman Exhibit in the Civic fortified buildings. Civic Museum
sarcophagi Museum, Vinkovci The defences Šetalište oca Mladena Barbarića 5.
are displayed in the were reinforced in Tel (032) 827 410. Open 8am–6pm
museum’s lapidarium. 1365, and the town was given daily, wine tastings only. Civic
Facing the garden is the to Nikola Kont, whose family Museum: Open 9am–6pm Fri,
church of SS Eusebius and Pollio later acquired the title of 9am–3pm Tue–Thu, 11am–6pm Sat.
(Sv. Euzebije i Polion) from 1775, Counts of Ilok. & 8 7 = ^
and the Town Hall.
Each September a festival of
music and popular traditions is
held in the town and groups
from all over the country take
part. The streets are decorated,
stallholders sell local produce,
and artists perform.

E Civic Museum
Trg bana Šokčevića 16. Tel (032) 332
504. Open Mar–Jul & Sep–Dec: 9am–
3pm Tue & Wed, 9am–7pm Thu & Fri,
9am–1pm Sat; Jan, Feb & Aug:
8am–3pm Mon–Fri. 8 Mansion built by Commander Livio Odescalchi in Ilok




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192  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


e Šarengrad The city, at the confluence of exhibits depicting the cultures
the Danube and the river Vuka, that have occupied this site
Map G2. * 100. k Osijek, 53 km
(33 miles). £ Vukovar, 30 km was known as Volko, Walk or since 3,000 BC.
(19 miles). n Regional: Vinkovci, Wolkov (Vukovo in Croatian) in
(032) 338 425. the Middle Ages. Later it was E Vučedol Culture Museum
given to various families: the Vučedol 252. Tel (032) 373 930.
A medieval fort once Horvat, the Gorjanski and the Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
controlled the heavy traffic Talovci. Conquered by the Turks, ∑ vučedol.hr/en/visit
along the river Danube at this Vukovar became a military
spot. In the 15th century, garrison and a key trading
Count Ivan Morović added centre. After libera-tion from t Erdut
a Franciscan Monastery. the Turks in 1687, it resumed Map G2. * 1,500. k Osijek,
The fort, however, was its role as an advance post of 37 km (23 miles). @ from Osijek.
destroyed during the war the Christian Catholic world n Zlatna 2, Aljmaš, (031) 595 001.
with the Turks and the area against the Muslim and ∑ tz.opcina-erdut.hr
remained uninhabited Orthodox religions.
until their departure In 1736, it was The town of Erdut gained a place
late in the 17th century. given to the Eltz in history when, on 12 November
With the return of counts, who called 1995, an agreement between
the inhabitants, the the town Vukovar. As Croatia and Yugoslavia was
monks set up a the inhabitants were drawn up here, setting out the
school and collected Dove of Vučedol, Catholics or of the return of Slavonia and Baranja
archaeological items symbol of Vukovar Orthodox faith, to Croatia after almost four
for a museum. churches were built years of Serb occupation.
During the break-up for both religions, including a The town occupies an
of former Yugoslavia between Franciscan monastery (1727). important strategic position
1991 and 1995, the area was In 1751, the Eltz family built a overlooking the Danube, and a
heavily bombed. The church huge Baroque mansion. It was fortification was erected in Roman
and monastery have since nationalized after World War II times. In the medieval period a
been restored and the statue and then housed the Vukovar castle was built. It was damaged
of St Anthony of Padua has Municipal Museum (Gradski by the Turks, but then rebuilt by
been put back in position. muzej Vukovar). Badly damaged them. The castle was also used by
From the hill there are good in 1991, its contents were taken the Habsburgs. Two towers, one
views of the Danube. to Novi Sad and Belgrade. In circular and one square, survive
2001 the collections were from the old castle.
returned, and gradually restored. Erdut is also famous for wine.
r Vukovar The new permanent exhibits Its winery’s 75,000-litre, 150-year-
explore not only the rich old oak barrel is listed in the
Map G2. * 28,000. k Osijek, 33 km archaeological history of the area Guinness Book of Records. The
(20 miles). £ Priljevo 2. @ from
Vinkovci. n J J Strossmayera 15, (032) and the development of the city, 19th-century Adamović-Cseh
442 889. _ Vukovar Film Festival but also its ethnic heritage and, Castle is next to the winery.
(end Aug). ∑ turizamvukovar.hr via a multimedia presentation,
the chronology of the recent
This Baroque city was once war. The Catholic Church of
known for its churches, elegant SS Philip and James (Sv. Filip i
18th-century buildings, Jakov) and the Orthodox Church
numerous museums and art of St Nicholas (Sv. Nikolaj) were
galleries. However, Vukovar has also badly damaged in 1991.
come to symbolize the war
which raged in Slavonia in 1991, E Vukovar Municipal Museum
when it was bombed by the Županijska 2. Tel (032) 441 270.
Serbs and the JNA (Yugoslav Open 7am–3pm Mon–Fri, Sat & Sun
People’s Army). Many years have by appt.
been spent restoring the historic
Baroque nucleus from the Environs
damage it sustained, and work Located about 4 km (2 miles)
on the town is still ongoing. downstream from the centre
Vukovar has a very long of Vukovar and situated on the The circular tower of the medieval
history, as evidenced by the right bank of the Danube is castle, Erdut
famous Dove of Vučedol from the Vučedol archaeological site,
2000 BC. This vessel, found one of the most prominent
5 km (3 miles) from Vukovar, archaeological sites in Europe. y Osijek
is now in the Archaeological It is home to the Vučedol
Museum in Zagreb (see pp168–9). Culture Museum, which houses See pp194–7.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8


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SLA VONIA AND BAR ANJA  193


commemorate the victory in in bronze representing Victory
the countryside surrounding commemorates the fallen of
Topolje. The location has World War II. It is the work of
particular charm as the one of the great Croatian artists
church is set among trees of the 20th century, Antun
standing alone among a Augustinčić (see p24).
patchwork of fields of maize
and tobacco. The church was
sacked, however, and nearly
completely destroyed in the
conflicts following the break-up
of former Yugoslavia. The
building is now undergoing
extensive restoration although
the splendid furnishings have
sadly been lost.
Here, as in Darda (right),
there are several Hungarian
communities, who, together
Naive sculpture on show at Ernestinovo with the Croats, are gradually
returning after their exile during Mansion of the Esterházy barons, now the
u Ernestinovo the Yugoslav occupation. The Town Hall of Darda
Hungarian-style houses with
Map F2. * 1,200. k Osijek, p Darda
20 km (12 miles). @ from Osijek. their overhanging roofs add a
n Regional: Kapucinska 40, Osijek, distinctive character to the area. Map F2. * 5,400. k Osijek, 15km
(031) 214 852. _ Open-air exhibition In the autumn, long strings of (9 miles). @ from Osijek. n Regional:
of sculpture (Aug). chilli peppers can be seen Kapucinska 40, Osijek, (031) 214 852.
hanging out to dry in the sun.
For many years, well-known An elegant mansion built by the
sculptors have been meeting Environs Esterházy barons in the second
in Ernestinovo to present their Around 10 km (6 miles) east of half of the 18th century, now
work in a summer show. This Topolje is the town of Batina. renovated and used as the
small village is now famous for In Roman times this was the Town Hall, is the only evidence
its open-air exhibitions. The site of a fortress on the banks of Darda’s history. Darda was
first exhibition was organized of the River Danube and was once a fortified city, represented
in 1976 by the sculptor Petar known by the name of Ad on 17th-century maps as a
Smajić. It took place in exile Militarae. Until the war of 1991, large fortress, connected to
from 1991 to 1996 and which depopulated this small Osijek by the 8-km (5-mile)
returned to Ernestinovo the town set among hills and bridge of Solimano. Built in
following year. Many works vineyards, there was a bridge 1566 to cross marshland, the
of art are displayed and connecting Baranja with bridge was destroyed in 1664
offered for sale in the village Hungary and Vojvodina, but by Nikola Zrinski (see p181) to
galleries. Ernestinovo was since its destruction, both river block the Turkish army. On that
badly damaged during the and road traffic have stopped. occasion the city was
war in the 1990s. On one of the small hills near subsequently devastated.
Topolje, a tall monument in In the recent war in the 1990s,
white stone with a female figure two 18th-century churches
i Kopački Rit were destroyed: the Catholic
Nature Park church of St John the Baptist
(Sv. Ivan Krstitelj) and the
See pp198–9. Orthodox church of St
Michael (Sv. Mihajlo).
o Topolje Environs
Bilje, 4 km (2 miles) south
Map F2. * 200. k Osijek, 46 km
(28 miles). £ Beli Manastir, 16 km (10 of Darda, is the site of the
miles). @ from Osijek. n Regional: information office for the
Kapucinska 40, Osijek, (031) 214 852. Kopački Rit Nature Park (see
pp198–9). It is housed in a
In 1687, after the victory in palace built by Prince Eugene
Vienna over the Turks, Prince of Savoy, who was granted the
Eugene of Savoy, commander small town of Bilje after the
of the Imperial forces, decided Hungarian-style houses with chilli peppers victory in Vienna over the
to build a church to hanging to dry, Topolje Turks (1687).




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194  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

y Osijek R Church of the Holy Cross
Sv. Križ
The capital of Slavonia sits in the middle of a fertile plain. Franjevačka ulica, Tvrđa. Tel (031) 208
It is a centre of industry, a university town, and a lively 177. Open 8am–noon, 3–8pm.
Central European city with wide roads linking three districts: Northeast of the main square,
the Fort (Tvrđa), Lower Town (Donji grad) and Upper Town on the site of a sacred medieval
building, stands the Church
(Gornji grad). The city developed in 1786 when the three of the Holy Cross, built by the
areas merged. Due to its position on the River Drava, Osijek Franciscans between 1709
has always played a strategic role. In 1809 Emperor Francis I and 1720. Next to this is the
declared it a Royal Free Town (this document is now in the monastery (1699–1767) which
Museum of Slavonia). In 1991, after the declaration of housed the first printing press
in Slavonia (1735), and from
independence by Croatia, the city was bombed for over a the mid-18th century also
year by Yugoslav forces and much of the old centre (Upper housed schools of philosophy
Town) was damaged. Liberated in 1995, in 1998 Osijek and theology. In the church
became part of the Croat state again. is a statue of the Virgin from
the 15th century and some
liturgical furnishings.
R Church of St Michael
Sv. Mihovil
Trg Jurja Križanića, Tvrđa.
Tel (031) 208 990.
Open before Mass.
Standing a little way back from
the square is the Church of
St Michael, which was built by
the Jesuits. The façade is flanked
by two bell towers, and the
monastery has a splendid
doorway (1719). Below street
level the foundations of the
16th-century Kasim-paša
The main square in the heart of Tvrđa mosque are still visible.
Exploring Osijek Trg Ante Starčevića, with its
The Fort (Tvrđa) is the fortified shops, bars and restaurants.
centre of Osijek. It was Facing the square is the County
constructed in the early 18th building, built in the early 20th
century after liberation from century in the Renaissance style.
the Turks. Fortunately, Tvrđa
did not suffer serious damage E Museum of Slavonia
during the war in the 1990s. Muzej Slavonije
As a result it has preserved its Trg sv. Trojstva 6, Tvrđa. Tel (031) 250
Baroque architecture, which is 731. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat. &
characterized by simple, austere 7 8 ^ = ∑ mso.hr GORNJODRAVSKA D r a v a
lines, unusual at this time. This On Tvrđa central square, the OBALA Footbridge
lack of ornamentation was due old Town Hall has housed the War memorial in Kralja Držislava park RIBARSKA ŠETALIŠTE KARD. FRANJE ŠEPERA
to the fact that the buildings Museum of Slavonia since 1946. Church of ŠAMAČKA VATROSLAVA
TRG
SS Peter
were intended for use by Geological, prehistoric, Greek, P Europe Avenue and Paul STARČEVIĆA Museum of Church of LISINSKOG Church of the
TRG ANTE
Holy Cross
KAPUCINSKA
soldiers and office workers. Illyrian and Roman objects are Europska avenija Church of Fine Arts St Michael TRG SVETOG
J. BOSENDORFERA
Facing Trg Sv. Trojstva, the on display here. One section is This is the main road of Osijek, St James TROJSTVA Museum of
Slavonia
central square of Tvrđa, named dedicated to ancient Roman linking the Fort (Tvrđa) to the MIRSKOG LORENZA JÄGERA Market FRANJE KUHAČA K N E Z A T R P I M I R A
TRG L.
after the Holy Trinity, are various Mursa with statues, tombstones, Upper Town (Gornji grad). It Croatian JÄGEROV ŠKOLSKA D. NEUMANA KARDINALA ALOJZIJA STEPINCA E U R O P S K A A V E N I J A
KAMILA FIRINGERA
National
PROLAZ
Baroque buildings, including the architectural pieces and a crosses some of the city’s parks, Theatre KRALJA ZVONIMI
Building of the Guard, with an coin collection. one of which is Kralja Držislava HRVATSKE REPUBLIKE TRG LJ. F. KREŽME ZAGREBAČKA
GAJA
18th-century clock tower, and Other sections are dedicated park, site of a striking bronze ŽUPANIJSKA SUNĆANA R A D I Ć E V A
the General Headquarters of to folklore with exhibits of memorial to the fallen of the O. KERŠOVANIJA RA D. CESARIČA ISTARSKA
Slavonia, which is now part of the richly decorated costumes. 78th Infantry Regiment (Soldier
university, and recognizable by its Today these clothes provide in the Throes of Death), by Robert G U N D U L I Ć E V A Train Station Bus Station V U K O V A R S K A C E S T A
monumental Baroque entrance. models for a flourishing Frangeš-Mihanović (1894), 400 m (440 yards) 400 m (440 yards)
The heart of city life is the handicrafts industry making which is regarded as the first
main square in the Upper Town, golden silk fabrics. modern sculpture in Croatia.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8
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OSIJEK  195


R Church and Monastery VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of St James
Sv. Jakov Practical Information
Kapucinska ulica 41, Gornji grad. Map F2. * 90,000. n Local:
Tel (031) 201 182. Open 6:30am– Županijska 2, (031) 203 755;
noon, 4–8pm & by appt. Regional: Kapucinska 40 (031)
The oldest building in Upper 214 852. _ City day (2 Dec),
Town is the Church of St James Summer Nights of Osijek (Jun–
(1702–27), with a Capuchin Aug). ∑ tzosijek.hr
monastery. In the sacristy are Transport
mid-18th-century paintings k 20 km (12 miles) Vukovarska
about the life of St Francis. 67, (060) 339 339. @ Bartola
Kašića, (060) 334 466. £ Trg
R Church of SS Peter Ružičke, (031) 205 155.
and Paul
Interior of the Neo-Gothic Church of Sv. Petar i Pavao
SS. Peter and Paul Trg Marina Držica, Gornji grad. P Croatian National Theatre
Tel (031) 310 020. Open 2–6:30pm Hrvatsko narodno kazalište
E Museum of Fine Arts Mon, 9am–6:30pm Tue–Fri. Županijska ulica 9, Gornji grad.
Muzej likovnih umjetnosti This imposing Neo-Gothic Tel (031) 220 700.
Europska avenija 9. Tel (031) 251 280. church is dedicated to St Peter The Croatian National Theatre
Open Jul & Aug: 10am–6pm Mon–Fri and St Paul. The church is was built in the Moorish style
(to 8pm Thu); Sep–Jun: 10am–6pm known as “katedrala” (cathedral) in the 19th century. Opera and
Tue–Fri (to 8pm Thu); 10am–1pm Sat by the locals because of its drama productions are put on
& Sun.& 8 by appt. ^ = size: the façade has towers from September to June.
∑ mlu.hr
90 m (295 ft) high. It was
The Museum of Fine Arts, designed by Franz Langenberg
founded in 1954, is housed in and built in the late 19th
an elegant 19th-century house. century. The 40 stained-glass
It has collections of paintings windows and some of the
from the 18th and 19th sculptures are by the
centuries, as well as works by Viennese artist Eduard Hauser.
contemporary Croatian artists. Most of the windows were
There is also a section dedicated bomb-damaged but have
to the Osijek School. been restored. Interior of the Croatian National Theatre

Osijek City Centre Key
1 Museum of Slavonia 6 Church of St James
2 Church of the Holy Cross 7 Church of SS Peter and Paul Street-by-street pp196–7
3 Church of St Michael 8 Croatian National Theatre
4 Europe Avenue 0 metres 500
5 Museum of Fine Arts
0 yards 500
D r a v a
Footbridge
GORNJODRAVSKA
OBALA
RIBARSKA ŠETALIŠTE KARD. FRANJE ŠEPERA
TRG
Church of ŠAMAČKA VATROSLAVA
SS Peter TRG ANTE LISINSKOG Church of the
and Paul STARČEVIĆA KAPUCINSKA Museum of Church of Holy Cross
Church of Fine Arts St Michael J. BOSENDORFERA
St James TRG SVETOG Museum of
TROJSTVA
Slavonia
TRG L. LORENZA JÄGERA FRANJE KUHAČA K N E Z A T R P I M I R A
MIRSKOG
Croatian Market KAMILA FIRINGERA
National JÄGEROV ŠKOLSKA D. NEUMANA KARDINALA ALOJZIJA STEPINCA E U R O P S K A A V E N I J A
PROLAZ
Theatre HRVATSKE REPUBLIKE TRG LJ. KRALJA ZVONIMI
ŽUPANIJSKA SUNĆANA R A D I Ć E V A GAJA F. KREŽME ZAGREBAČKA O. KERŠOVANIJA RA D. CESARIČA ISTARSKA
G U N D U L I Ć E V A Train Station Bus Station V U K O V A R S K A C E S T A
400 m (440 yards) 400 m (440 yards)
For keys to symbols see back flap
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196  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: the Fort (Tvrđa)

The fortified centre of Osijek (Tvrđa) was built on the site
of the Roman settlement of Mursa, which, in 131 AD,
became the capital of Lower Pannonia with the name of
Colonia Aelia Mursa. Destroyed by the Avars and rebuilt by
the Croats, it remained a military and administrative centre
until it was attacked and burned by the Turks in 1526.
Making the most of the strategic position, the Turks rebuilt
the fort and, under Suleyman II, also constructed a bridge
across the Drava. After the expulsion of the Turks in 1687,
the Austrian Emperor destroyed the mosques and other
reminders of Turkish rule. He then built a fortified series . Church of St Michael
of buildings, more like a city than a fort. Tvrđa now houses Constructed by Jesuits in the first
the Town Hall, the university faculties, and the Museum half of the 18th century, the church
of Slavonia. The only remaining part of the ramparts is has a Baroque façade flanked by
two towers.
towards the river Drava and includes the Water Gate
(Vodena Vrata).

K A T A N Č I Ć A


TRG J .
KRIŽ ANIĆ A




TRG
Ć SVE T OG
I
V TROJST V A
O
R
F R A N J E K U H A Č A
E
T
N
I
P A
Ć
I
V
K O
K A M I L A F I R I N G E R A
R
Building of the Guard M A
On the western side of the square stands
the Building of the Guard, with a clock
tower from the 18th century. It now B O S K O V I Ć A
houses the Archaeological Museum.
A F R A N J E K U H A Č A
Croatian Academy of Č K
Science and Arts V A
K A M I L A F I R I N G E R A
E
J
N
A
R
F
Key
Plague Column
Suggested route The centre of the square is
dominated by the “column
of the plague”, erected in 1729
in thanks for the
ending of an
outbreak of
the disease.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8
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OSIJEK  197

Church and Monastery of the Holy Cross
The church, erected by Franciscans between 1709 and
1720, is next to the monastery which housed the first
printing press in Slavonia.














View of Osijek and the River Drava
Splendid views of the city can be enjoyed from the banks of
the Drava. It was once important for river trading, but trade
is now practically non-existent.

K A T A N Č I Ć A 0 metres 100 100
0 yards

TRG V A TROSL A V A
LISINSK OG



TRG
SVE T OG
TROJST V A
A
K
S
T
E
L T
A U
K K Darda
B O S E N D O R F E R A
Č F A (see p193)
V A
E
J A N
B O S K O V I Ć A F R J A G I Ć A K N E Z A T R P I M I R A
A F R A N J E K U H A Č A
K
Č
V A
K A M I L A F I R I N G E R A
E
J
N
A
R Ðakovo
F
(see p190)
. Museum of Slavonia Headquarters of Slavonia
This museum contains On the northern side of the main square
interesting collections of of Tvrđa is the former Headquarters of
geological, prehistoric, Greek, Slavonia, now the University Rectorate,
Illyrian and Roman material. easily recognized by the imposing façade.



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198  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

i Kopački Rit Nature Park
Park prirode Kopački rit

This triangular piece of land is bordered by the final stretch
of the river Drava before it meets the Danube. The landscape
changes with the seasons and becomes flooded when the
Danube overflows. The area covers 177 sq km (68 sq miles)
and can turn into an immense wetland marsh. At other times
it is a vast grassland plain with pools and ponds. There are
also dry areas which support enormous willows and tall oak
trees. A nature reserve since 1967, it has a rich and varied
fauna and for many months of the year provides a sanctuary
for hundreds of different species of bird, both migratory and
domestic. A high embankment on the western side stops the White Storks
One of the park’s symbols, the
further spread of the flood waters. On top is a road which white stork is especially visible
allows cars to cross this part of the park. in the breeding season.

Park Entrance
The main
entrance to the
Kopački Rit Park
is in the village
of Bilje (see p193).
Kopačko
Lake
Osijek

Sakadaŝ Canal
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 2 Hulovski Canal
Sarvaška
Pond
Black Storks are rare;
only a few dozen pairs
of the bird inhabit
the park.









Drava

Drava

White-Tailed Eagle
The many birds of
prey maintain a
Lakes balance among the
Forty different species of fish live bird population. The
in the lakes and ponds which white-tailed eagle is the
form in the park. rarest eagle in Europe.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8


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