(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

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Premuda VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This island covers an area of
9 sq km (3 sq miles) and has Practical Information
fewer than 100 inhabitants, all Map B–C4. n Zadar:
of whom live in the village of Sv. Leopolda Mandića 1, (023)
Premuda. It is the most isolated 315 316; Dugi Otok: Obala P.
of the islands in the archipelago. Lorinija bb, Sali, (023) 377 094;
There are no hotels but visitors Ugljan: Šimuna Kožičića Benje
can find rooms in private houses. 17, Ugljan, (023) 288 011.
∑ ugljan.hr ∑ zadar.hr
In Italy, the island is remem- ∑ dugiotok.hr
bered for a naval battle
between Italy and Austria Transport
which took place on 10 June 4 Harbour master’s office: (023)
1918 during World War I. 254 888; Jadrolinija: (023) 254 800.
The island has beautiful
Monastery of SS. Cosmas and Damian beaches and thick pine woods,
in Pašman and as there are no private cars Olib
it is also very peaceful. There About 700 people live here
Pašman are several weekly connections in the village of Olib, where
This wild, unspoilt island has a to Zadar. buildings include several
population of 3,500, who live 16th-century houses and
in villages on the coast facing Molat a tower. The church of St
the mainland. There are fewer The three villages on Molat Anastasia is from the same
tourists than on Ugljan. The support several hundred period and was once part of a
western side is given over to people, who depend on fishing monastery. In the parsonage are
vineyards, while the eastern part and farming. There are two manuscripts and sacred books
has thick maquis right down to ports: Zapuntel, the main in Glagolitic script, as well as
the coastline, where there are ferry port, and Brgulje, which many stone remains, which
also some pebble beaches. is used when the main port confirm the presence of a
South of Pašman, a fishing is inaccessible. community here in Roman
village and the main centre For centuries the island times. The sea is delightful, and
on the island, is Tkon, an belonged to Venice, which rocky cliffs alternate with coves
embarkation point for ferries. On fostered the establishment of and sandy beaches. Rooms can
Mount Čokovac, north of Tkon, a community of monks and be found in private houses.
is the Benedictine Monastery local people, who set about
of SS. Cosmas and Damian (Sv. re-establishing the woods
Kuzma i Damjan). Built in 1125, which had disappeared with
it became a centre of Glagolitic over-exploitation. An intense
culture and has a well-stocked reforestation programme has
library with Glagolitic texts. In been under way to aid with this.
the 15th century the church The church of St Andrew is all
and monastery were rebuilt in that remains of the monastery.
the Gothic style when they There are no hotels on the
were taken over by the island but accommodation can
Franciscan order. The church be found in private houses in
(14th–15th century) has some Molat, Zapuntel and Brgulje.
good sculptures, including a There are many coves along
painted crucifix. the low, jagged coastline. Ruins in the peaceful village of Olib
Kukljica Pašman
Ugljan Neviđane Tkon
Preko Banj
J
UGLJAN PAŠMAN
IŽ Mali
Veli Iž

Key
Minor road
Dragove
Sali Path


For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45 For keys to symbols see back flap


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3 Kornati National Park shepherds of Murter cut down
the trees and burned the scrub
Nacionalni park Kornati in order to grow grass for their
In 1980 part of the Zadar Archipelago was declared a national livestock, which were left here
park. The name Kornati derives from the name of the main to graze freely from spring to
autumn. Dry-stone walls were
island in the group, Kornat. The park was set up to protect the built between the plots of land
waters so that marine life might flourish. It measures 36 km to form pens for the animals.
(22 miles) in length and 6 km (4 miles) wide and is made up On some of the islands near
of 89 islands of white stone. Despite there not being any perm­ the coast are small cottages with
anent inhabitants, and vegetation appearing to be sparse, stables and an outdoor hearth.
flora and fauna are rich; there are some 19,000 olive trees in Many also have a small jetty.
The Kornati Islands have
the park area. The islands are surrounded by clear blue sea, become a popular destination
with jagged coastlines, hidden coves and underwater caves. for scuba divers and sailors. The
marine life is varied with around
350 plant species and 300
animals. Fishing is prohibited
throughout the entire Kornati
National Park.
Besides dozens of rocky
outcrops, the islands of Kornat,
Levrnaka, Piškera, Lavsa, Kasela
and Mana make up the park.
West of Levrnaka lies the island
of Mala Proversa, which, with
the southern part of Dugi
Otok (see p98), forms another
One of the few houses on the Kornati Islands protected area, the Telašćica
Nature Park. The best way to
Exploring Kornati vegetation, were used as a base visit is by sailing boat, and there
National Park for the Venetian fleet. At present are organized day trips from
The Kornati Islands were the the Kornati Islands belong to the Murter, Zadar, Biograd, Vodice,
peaks of a mountain chain inhabitants of Murter, to the east, Primošten and Rogoznica.
about 20,000 years ago. When who bought them around the
this area was part of the Roman end of the 19th century to use
empire, the main islands were as grazing for sheep and goats.
holiday resorts, popular with The bare and arid islands are
the prosperous inhabitants of characterized by steep cliffs,
Zadar. Beautiful Roman villas stony ground and sinkholes
with mosaic floors as well as typical of a karst (limestone)
fishponds and baths were built. landscape. Sheep farming has
During the long period under impoverished the flora of these
Venetian rule the islands, which islands. In fact, the vegetation
were then covered with rich disappeared when the
DUGI OTOK
Sali
The Kornati Islands
MALA PROVERSA
TELAŠĆICA KATINA SVRŠATA KORNAT
Lučica
Vrulje

LEVRNAKA

MANA
PIŠKERA
Key
Path 0 kilometres 10
Borders of the park 0 miles 10
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

D ALM A TIA  101


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C4.
n (022) 435 740. &
∑ np-kornati.hr
Transport
4 from Biograd, Murter,
Primošten, Rogoznica, Vodice,
Zadar. (Organized trips only.)

and a tower for the tax collector.
The houses and tower are now
almost all in ruins. However, the
Olive trees on the slopes of Statival Bay, on the island of Kornat church from 1560 is still standing.
Kornat two peaks, Veli Vrh and Svirac, Svršata
The island of Kornat is the largest which, at 117 m ( 380 ft) and 94 On the small island of Svršata
island in the park. There is a small m (310 ft) respectively, afford there are two walls that go
medieval church dedicated to stunning views of almost the down to the sea and continue
the Virgin Mary here. There is entire Kornati archipelago. Also into the water, where they join
also a look-out tower with the on Levrnaka is Lojena, the only up with another wall. It is
Venetian name of Toreta dating sandy beach of the Kornati park, thought that this square tank
from the 6th century, an example located in a lovely sheltered bay. was a Roman construction for
of Byzantine military architecture. keeping fish fresh.
Near the old village of Vrulje, the Lavsa
main village in the archipelago, This island with its pretty bays Mana
is Vela Ploča, where there is a and coves is a popular tourist The island of Mana is famous for
spectacular chalk cliff leaning at desti nation. The ruins of a partly its semicircular cliffs. Spray from
a 40-degree angle over the sea, submerged wall are all that remain the waves breaking on the cliffs
measuring 200 m (656 ft) long of an ancient Roman salt works. can reach up to a height of
and 150 m (492 ft) high. 40 m (131 ft). On top of the cliffs
Piškera are the ruins of a Greek-style
Levrnaka There are also traces of Roman fishing village, built for the film
The island of Levrnaka is one of presence in Piškera. Once there The Raging Sea in 1961.
the largest and highest islands was a village here with about
of Kornati National Park, with 50 houses, a warehouse for fish
The Kornati Islands
by Boat
The archipelago of the Kornati
Islands is a real paradise for
sailors. These are beautiful
islands where the only sounds
are those of the sea and the
wind. There is only one small
port, Piškera, which is open
from Easter (March or April) to
October; electricity and fresh
water are rationed. The natural
beauty of the area makes
A typical island of white rock, bare of vegetation sailing here unforgettable.

SMOKVICA
J
LAVSA
KURBA VELA
PIŠKERA
Kornati National Park, a paradise
for sailing

For keys to symbols see back flap


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4 Nin
Map C4. * 1,500. k Zadar, 24 km
(15 miles). £ Zadar, 17 km (11 miles).
@ Zadar, 17 km (11 miles). n Trg
braće Radić 3, (023) 264 280. ∑ nin.hr
The ancient core of Nin lies in
a natural lagoon, a sheltered
position that made it an attract-
ive choice for settlement. One
of its oldest sources of income
was salt-harvesting, and today The small Romanesque Church of St Mary in Ljubač, near Nin
its sandy beaches and warm,
shallow waters for bathing make use of the Croatian language of Princes Višeslav and Branimir,
it a popular holiday destination. in liturgy. The statue is said to now in the archaeological
Nin’s many archaeological grant wishes to those who rub museum in Zadar. The church
sites have enabled the town’s its big toe. Also inside the walls is a fine example of primitive
past to be traced from prehistory is the 12th- century Church of Croatian art.
through the Liburnian, Roman St Ambrose (Sv. Ambroz), built Ljubač is 13 km (8 miles)
and early Christian times to its in the Roman esque style with northeast of Nin and the site
period of greatest glory, in the Gothic additions. of some ruins: the wall, central
9th–12th centuries, when it was In Kraljevac Square is the buildings and towers of the
both a bishopric and royal small but interesting Museum medieval Castrum Jubae, built
Croatian town. Nin’s finest of Nin Antiquities. by the Templar Knights. It fell
monuments date from this time. into ruin after the order was
Within the town walls is the R Church of the Holy Cross, of dissolved. Still standing is the
9th-century Church of the Holy St Anselm and of St Ambrose 12th-century Romanesque
Cross (Sv. Križ), a fine example of Open daily (St Anselm & St Ambrose Church of St Marcela, noted for
pre-Romanesque churches in for Mass only). its three semicircular apses. Near
typical Croatian style (see p26). E Museum of Nin Antiquities the village is the small church of
The church’s harmony and Trg Kraljevac 8. Tel (023) 264 160. St John from the Middle Ages.
beauty encapsulate the spirit- Open May: 9am–2pm Mon–Sat; Jun–
uality of the era. Its windows are mid-Jul & mid-Aug–Sep: 9am–9pm R Church of St Nicholas
positioned to act as a kind of daily; mid-Jul–mid-Aug: 9am–10pm Open St Nicholas’ Day and St Mark’s
calendar by which, according daily; Oct–Apr: 9am–2pm by appt. Day only.
to the sun’s rays, the exact ∑ amzd.hr
date of the equinox and
solstice can be determined. Environs
Nearby is the former A short way southwest of
Cathedral of St Anselm Nin stands the Church
(Sv. Anselm), where the of St Nicholas (Sv. Nikola)
kings of Croatia were in Prahulje. This unusual
crowned. The first cathedral building, constructed on
in Croatia, it has a rich an Illyrian tumulus, has a
treasury with silver dome with an octagonal
reliquaries from the 9th watch tower from the
to 15th centuries. Near 12th century, added
the church is a statue Statue of Gregory of during the Turkish
by Ivan Meštrović of Nin, by Ivan Meštrović invasion. The church
Bishop Gregory of Nin, is built on a trefoil plan
promoter and defender of the and once held inscriptions and Church of St Nicholas in Prahulje, not far
Glagolitic script that enabled the tombs of members of the court from Nin

A Land of Salt Works
Salt trading was a very lucrative business in the Middle Ages. Three
areas were suitable for its production in the upper Adriatic: the
mouth of the River Dragonja, today the border between Slovenia and
Croatia, the bay of Pag, and the lowlands around Nin. The salt works
of Pag, of Roman origin, which were protected by two ranges of hills,
were the largest and most profitable, and were once owned by Nin.
The salt works on Pag, of Roman origin, The possession of these salt flats, still profitable today, has been the
still in use today cause of various wars through history.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

D ALM A TIA  103


5 Paklenica
National Park
Nacionalni park Paklenica
Map C4. n Starigrad Paklenica, (023)
369 202, 369 155. Open Apr–Oct:
6am–8:30pm daily; Nov–Mar:
7am–3pm daily. & ∑ paklenica.hr
Situated in the imposing
Velebit massif, Paklenica
National Park was founded
in 1949. The entrance is in
Starigrad Paklenica – look
out for a road sign on the
Magistrala coastal road (E65). Rugged landscape of Paklenica National Park
The park covers an area of
95 sq km (41 sq miles), and is climbers. High up, majestic with the aim of protecting
formed by two gorges, Velika birds of prey make their nests, this wild environment, with
Paklenica (Big Paklenica) and in an ideal habitat for breeding. its 2,000 plant species and
Mala Paklenica (Small Paklenica), Golden eagles, short-toed numerous colonies of large
which cut into the limestone eagles and especially peregrine birds of prey. The kukovi –
mountains. The gorges were falcons can be seen here. In strange, impressive rock
eroded by two rivers and parts the forests there are bears, wild formations sculpted by wind
of the canyon walls are more boar, foxes, roebucks and hares. and water – are also protected.
than 400 m (1,312 ft) high. A path in the valley penetrates Hiking and mountain biking
Deep in the cliffs of Velika far into the are other popular activities in
Paklenica Canyon, there is an interior of the the park and in summer visitors
extensive system of underground park to a cliff can stay overnight in the
tunnels built by the Yugoslav edge where there is a Mountain Hut, located
army in the 20th century. The magnifi cent view of the on the banks of
tunnels are presently being reno- wooded Vaganski Vrh Velika Paklenica
vated as the park administration mountain, the highest creek, or in
intend to transform them into a in the Velebit chain. Griffon vulture, one of the the villages of
multi-purpose visitor centre. The Velebit mountain many birds of prey in the park Ramići and Parići.
The rock faces are pierced chain is nearly 150 km A good camp
by numerous caves, but they (93 miles) long. The terrain site is also situ ated next to a
are not easily accessible. Only is karst (limestone) with many pebble beach. Along the creek
the Manita cave can be visited, sink holes and plateaux sepa- there are 15 disused water
accompanied by a guide. rated by deep fissures. In 1978 mills, still in good condition,
The bare rock faces of Velika UNESCO listed Velebit as a which can be visited during
Paklenica are popular with rock biological reserve for humanity the summer.






















One of the paths leading into Paklenica National Park




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6 Pag

The island of Pag is 68 km (42 miles) long and has two
mountain chains running parallel to the coast: at the southern
end cliffs frame a deep bay with numerous inlets. The island
was inhabited in the Neolithic Age, and was occupied by the
Liburnians in around 1200 BC. When Dalmatia was conquered
by Publius Cornelius Scipio in the 1st century AD, the Romans
built the town of Cissa and the fortified port of Navalia here.
In the Imperial period, villas were built and some mosaic
floors and an aqueduct still survive. The Slavs settled in Pag
in the 6th century and became sheep farmers. After 1000 AD
Zadar and Rab fought over the island to gain control of the Sheep grazing on Pag
salt pans (see p102). When Cissa was destroyed by the
inhabitants of Zadar, the islanders chose a new location for a covered in maquis, olive groves
town, Stari Pag, which was fortified by the Venetians in 1192. and aromatic herbs, particularly
sage. As well as the production
of olive oil and a distinctive wine
called Žutica, sheep farming is
one of the main occupations on
the island. Pag is famous for its
sheep’s cheese (paški sir), which
has a distinctive taste thanks to
the aromatic herbs in the
grazing. The cheeses are coated
with olive oil, and undergo
lengthy maturation.
Pag Town
The small main island town
occupies a sheltered bay facing
The dry, barren east-facing coast, swept by the bora wind the mainland. It was granted the
status of a free town by King Bela
Exploring Pag colour, is exposed to the bora IV in 1244, but rivalry with Zadar
The island, connected by a wind and bears little vegetation. brought about its destruction.
bridge to the Magistrala coast The typical dry-stone walls were The walls, the castle, a monastery
road (E65) at its eastern tip, near built to protect the land from the and the Church of St Mary in the
Miškovići, is dry and barren, with wind and to separate the flocks Old Town are in ruins. In 1409,
only a few areas cultivated of sheep belonging to different Pag came definitively under the
with vines and olive trees. The farmers. The southwest coast is a rule of Venice.
coastline facing the mainland, little flatter with some small In 1443 the Venetian rulers,
rocky and jagged and white in beaches. Here the land is with the assistance of local

Magistrala coast road
Tovarnele Kovači
Žigljen
Karlobag
Stara Novalja
PAG Metajna

Novalja
Pag
Gorica
Mandre Košljun
Key ŠKRDA
Major road MAUN
Minor road 0 kilometres 5
Scenic route 0 miles 5

For keys to symbols see back flap


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(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

D ALM A TIA  105


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Lace, Symbol of the Traditions of Pag
Map C4. * 8,400. n Pag: Od
Pag is renowned for its clean waters and its delicious špitala 2, (023) 611 286; Novalja:
sheep’s cheese, but it is also well-known for its lace. For Trg Briščić 1, (053) 661 404;
centuries this lace has been created by the patient hands Karlobag: Trg dr. Tuđmana 2, (053)
of the women of the island who, in warm weather, sit 694 251. _ Lace exhibi tion
by their doorsteps intent on creating this intricate lace. (summer); Carnival of Pag (Feb &
Typical Made using a special stitch, the lace is used to decorate last weekend in Jul).
pag lace blouses, bedlinen, altar cloths and table centrepieces. ∑ tzgpag.hr
Some decades ago a school was established here to train ∑ tz-novalja.hr
new lacemakers. A collection of antique lace was left to the school ∑ tz-karlobag.hr
by former lacemakers and the examples are used as models. Lace Transport
is sold here and some of the rooms are set up as a museum. 4 Prizna-Žigljen, Pag.

The high walls with Novalja
eight towers and four Located at the beginning of the
gates were demol- narrow peninsula of Lun, Novalja is
ished at the end of the second town on the island. It
the 19th century, but makes its living entirely from tour-
some traces (a gate ism, thanks to its beach. In the
and two bastions) centre of the town are the remains
still remain. The of an early Christian bas ilica and a
15th-century Duke’s pre-Romanesque church dating
Palace (Kneževa from the 9th–10th centuries.
Palača), which has A ferry service connects the
Skrivanat Tower in the Old Town, Pag been altered, and the island to the mainland, running
unfinished Bishop’s from Novalja to Prizna.
nobles, entrusted the design Palace by Juraj Dalmatinac face
of a new town to the famous the main square. Environs
architect Juraj Dalmatinac A monument to Dalmatinac Boat excursions to Pag leave
(Giorgio Orsini). It took several by Ivan Meštrović and the from Karlobag on the mainland.
decades to build what is now Church of St Mary of the Karlobag lies in a pretty bay and
the present-day Pag. Assumption (1443–1448) stand takes its name from the fortress
Venetian rule brought a long in the same square. The church that the Archduke of Austria,
period of peace and prosperity, is a blend of Romanesque Charles of Habsburg, built in
bolstered by the income from and Gothic, with three aisles 1579 on the site of a village
the productive salt works. divided by white stone columns destroyed by the Turks.
Between the 15th and 18th with carved capitals. The façade The fortress lost its importance
centuries, important public has a rose window and there after the Turkish threat had passed
buildings and a parish church, is a lunette above the door. and it was eventually abandoned.
locally called the cathedral, Numerous precious works of Its attractive stones were then
were built. art are pre served here, including salvaged and used to build the
The town has preserved its a wooden 12th-century crucifix, houses in the village. Still visible
original structure with two a Virgin of the Rosary by Giovanni are some of the massive walls
main roads intersecting in the Battista Pittoni, an organ, and a and a monastery, which has a
main square, and minor roads treasury. famous library and a church.
running parallel.

Kraljevica
Zadar


Kraljevica
Dinjiška
Gorica Zadar
Vlašići

Povljana
The harsh landscape, characteristic of the island of Pag
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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7 Krka National Park
Nacionalni park Krka
The park covers an area of 109 sq km
(42 sq miles) and was established in 1985 to
protect the middle and lower stretches of the
River Krka, which flow into the bay of Šibenik.
The source of the river is near Knin, and the
river begins its journey of 75 km (47 miles)
inside a canyon on the limestone plateau
behind Šibenik. It finally spills over into the
spectacular Roški slap and Skradinski buk Monastery of Visovac
In the middle of the lake is the monastery of Visovac.
waterfalls, forming a series of lakes and rapids It was founded by Franciscans in 1445 who were
surrounded by vegetation. The bird life in the joined by Franciscans from Bosnia in 1576. They
park is very varied. brought books, illuminated manuscripts and sacred
vestments with them.
Skradin
Once a settlement of Ðevrske
Illyrian and Liburnian
tribes, then a Roman town, Ðevrske
Skradin was a bishop’s see
from the 6th century. It is
one of the main access Smrdelje
points to the park; boats
go upriver from here to
the waterfalls.
Ićevo

Entrance 2 Bribirske
Mostine
Bribirske
Mostine
KEY
Bratiškovci Rupe
1 The lower basin becomes a
pool of emerald-green water in the
summer and is an attractive place
to sunbathe or picnic.
2 Around the lake families of
egrets and night herons can be Prukljan
seen perched on the branches of Visovačko
the willows or hidden among the Dubravice • Jezero Monastery of
Visovac
reeds. About 200 species of bird
have been counted here.
Prukljansko
3 Krka monastery was first Jezero
mentioned in 1402. Skradin
4 Lake Visovac is at the heart of Raslina
the park. After the waterfalls, the river
flows through a narrow valley and Nos Kalik
then widens to form the lake. Some
stretches of the banks are steep and .
others hilly with oak woods.
Lozovac
5 Skradinski buk is an impressive
waterfall that cascades from a height Šibenik
of 45 m (147 ft) down 17 steps over
a distance of 800 m (2,624 ft). Some Entrance 1
of the park paths, sprayed by the Šibenik
falls, pass next to what is one
of the most spectacular natural 0 kilometres 5
displays in Croatia.
0 miles 5
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45

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D ALM A TIA  107


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C–D4.
Park: n Trg Ivana Pavla II br 5,
Šibenik, (022) 201 777.
Open summer: 8am–7pm;
winter: 9am–4pm (Apr, May,
Oct, Nov: 8am–6pm). &
Roški slap Monastery of Visovac: can be
Here the river widens and deepens within the forest before visited on organized boat trips
finally cascading from between the trees, producing waterfalls from Skradinski buk.
of over 25 m (82 ft). ∑ np-krka.hr

Gračac

.
.
. Brljansko
. Jezero
Knin
Ðevrske Kistanje .
Vrbnik
Nečven
Drniš
Čitluk
Krka Mratovo
Ićevo Oklaj





Rupe


River Čikola
After Lake Visovac, the Krka is
Širitovci joined by the River Čikola and
from here the river flows
Visovačko towards the Skradinski buk
Jezero Monastery of and then on to the sea.
Visovac Drniš
Drinovci
Visiting the Park
Čikola The protected area begins at the Knin valley and continues to the
bridge of Skradin. Road signs mark the entrances to the park; each has
Nos Kalik a parking area, a tourist information centre, and a ticket office. Cars can
Šibenik enter from Lozovac, while the Roški slap waterfalls can be reached
Drniš from Miljevci or Skradin. About 15 km
(9 miles) from Burnum, other road signs
indicate the entrance to the area of the
Roški slap waterfalls. Boats leave from
Key Skradin for trips to the Skradinski buk
Major road waterfalls and from here it is possible
Minor road to take a short cruise to the Roški slap
falls, crossing the lake of Visovac and
Scenic route visiting the monastery on the island. View of Krka Park
Waterfall
For keys to symbols see back flap


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8 Šibenik and is now a Civic Museum.
This late-Renaissance building
Located alongside the mouth of the river Krka, this houses coin collections,
picturesque city, with its steep streets and arched passages, archaeological finds from the
is a joy to explore. It is first documented in 1066 as Castrum Neolithic to Roman periods,
Sebenici, when King Petar Krešimir IV described it as a triangular tomb finds, early Croatian
sculptures (7th–9th centuries),
fortified town. Between 1412 and 1797, it was ruled by the and a rich archive of historical
Venetians, and the old centre acquired grand buildings and documents about the city and
three large forts as well as bastions on the island of St Nicholas. its territory, many from the
It was a prosperous time and Šibenik became one of the medieval period. There is a
liveliest cultural centres in Renaissance Croatia. Venetian rule statue of the count (1609–11)
on the façade by the entrance.
gave way to a brief period of French occupation until Austria
took over and ruled until 1917. The war during the 1990s R Cathedral of St James
brought about the collapse of local industry, and mass Katedrala sv. Jakova
unemployment. The situation today is much improved. See pp110–11.
P Old Loggia
library with manuscripts Gradska loža
and liturgical material in Trg Republike Hrvatske.
the monastery. In front of the cathedral’s Door
of Lions stands the Old Loggia,
R Church of formerly the seat of the city
St Barbara council, built between 1532 and
Sv. Barbara 1543 to a design by Michele
Kralja Tomislava. Sanmicheli, and restored after it
Tel (022) 214 899. Museum: was damaged during World War II.
Open May–Oct: 9am–1pm, This is a two-storey structure:
5–7pm; Nov–Apr: by appt. the ground floor is an open
The small Church of portico with nine large arches,
St Barbara, behind the the upper floor is a loggia, with
Cathedral of St James Cathedral of St James, a balustrade.
was built around the
R Church of St Francis middle of the 15th cen tury, and
Sv. Frane conserves parts of an older
Trg Nikole Tomaszea 1. Tel (022) 201 building. Irregular openings
480. Open 7:30am–7:30pm daily. make the façade unusual: the
Along the busy seafront, on lunette on the main door has a
the southern edge of the Old statue of St Nicholas from the
Town centre, once stood the workshop of Bonino of Milan
Monastery and Church of (1430). Inside is an altar made
St Francis, founded in 1229 and by a youthful pupil of Juraj
destroyed during a raid in 1321. Dalmatinac, Giovanni da Pribislao,
Some capitals, a few statues, who was obliged to match The 16th-century Old Loggia, designed by
and parts of the arches in the another altar which had been Michele Sanmicheli
cloister remain of the original saved from the previous church.
structure. Towards the middle The church also houses a rich Y Medieval Mediterranean
of the 15th century several and interesting collection of Garden of St Lawrence
new chapels were added on. religious art, with paintings, Monastery (MMG)
The buildings were completely sculptures and illuminated Srednjovjekovni samostanski
rebuilt in the Baroque style texts dating from the 14th to mediteranski vrt sv. Lovre (SSMV)
around the middle of the 18th the 16th centuries. Trg Republike Hrvatske 4. Tel (022)
century. The church underwent 212 515. Open summer: 8am–11pm
complete renovation: the wood- E Count’s Palace – Civic daily; winter: 9am–4pm daily.
en ceiling and the sumptuous Museum Maintained by the children of
gilded carved wooden altars Muzej grada Šibenika a local high school, this garden
were remade, and every wall Gradska vrata 3. Tel (022) 213 880. is one of Šibenek’s most popular
was decorated with paintings. Open 10am–9pm Tue–Sat. attractions. The MMG follows
Inside, in the first chapel on This palace takes its name from a medieval design and has a
the left, is a great organ from the Venetian Count Niccolò varied assortment of flowers,
1762, made by Petar Nakić. The Marcello who built it in the herbs and plants that create a
large cloister has kept its 14th- 12th–13th century. It was the dazzling combination of colours.
century structure and there is a Venetian governor’s residence Capers have been planted in the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


108-109_EW_Croatia.indd 108 20/10/16 12:28 pm

ŠIBENIK  109


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D5. * 37,000. n Local:
Ulica Fausta Vrančića 18,
(022) 212 075; Regional: Fra
N. Ružića bb, (022) 219 072.
∑ sibenik-tourism.hr
Transport
k Split, 97 km (60 miles).
£ (022) 333 699. @ Draga 44,
(060) 368 368, (022) 216 066.
4 Dr. F. Tuđmana 7, (022) 213 468.
Medieval Mediterranean Garden of St Lawrence Monastery (MMG)
The present structure dates from
gaps of the stone walls as P Fort of St John the middle of the 17th century
a homage to Juraj Dalmatinac, Tvrđava sv. Ivan and a pretty garden is laid out in
who is believed to have been the n (022) 212 075. front of the bastions.
first to bring them to Šibenek. Standing on a hill 115 m (410 ft)
high, the fort was built in 1646 in P Fort of St Nicholas
P Fort of St Michael a star shape after the city was Tvrđava sv. Nikola
Tvrđava sv. Mihovila attacked by the Turks in 1649. n (022) 212 075.
n (022) 213 880 (Civic Museum). The fort was planned by the
The restored fort is of medieval P Barone Fortress Italian architect Michele
origins. It was destroyed after Tvrđava Barone Sanmicheli, and built between
lightning struck the powder n (022) 213 880. 1540 and 1547 on a cliff
magazine. When it was rebuilt, The third large fort, called Barone overlooking the city. It is a fine
account was taken of the city’s Fortress, or Šubićevac, was example of military architecture,
altered defence needs, and the constructed rapidly in 1646, in both for its strength and for
towers were omitted. Its present the face of an imminent Turkish the beauty of the decorations
appearance dates from the 16th– attack. The fort, in fact, greatly above the entrance gate, in the
17th centuries. Formerly known contributed to the defeat of the apertures, in the rooms, and
as St Anne, it offers magnificent Turks in 1647. After a long siege, along the corridors. The fort
views over the islands. large parts of it had to be rebuilt. was often used as a prison.

Šibenik City Centre
1 Church of St Francis Fort of
2 Church of St Barbara St Michael St John
Fort of
3 Count’s Palace – Civic
Museum
4 Cathedral of St James JUR JA DA LM A T I N CA BUKO VAČKA P O D TVRĐAVOM PU T G R O B L J A
pp110–11
5 Old Loggia PROMINSKA KNINSKA K R A L
6 Medieval Mediterranean
Garden of St Lawrence St Lawrence
MMG of
Monastery (MMG) OMLADINACA OBALA PALIH Monastery SV. LUCE
7 Fort of St Michael AN DRIJE KAČIĆA
Cathedral Church of
of St James Old St Chrysogonus
Loggia
Count’s Palace – Church of
NIKO L E VLADANOVA J A Z V O N I M I R A
Civic Museum St John
PETRANOVIĆA
Church of DON KRSTE STOŠIĆA
St Barbara KRALJA T O M I S LAVA BOŽIDARA Barone
TRG PAVLA KRALJICE JELENE Fortress
ŠUBIĆA
JU RJ A B A RA K OVIĆA Ascension Theatre
ZLARINSKI Church
PROLAZ of the
K r k a
POLJANA
SV. N . TAVELIĆ A
USKOČ K A
TRG IVANA Fort of
OB AL A O SLO BOD EN JA
GORANA
KOVAČIĆA Perivoj St Nicholas
0 metres 200 Roberta
Visianija
Train Station
0 yards 200 200 m (220 yards) Church of
St Francis
Bus Station
200 m (220 yards)
For keys to symbols see back flap
108-109_EW_Croatia.indd 109 20/10/16 12:28 pm

110  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Šibenik: Cathedral of St James
Katedrala sv. Jakova

It took Croatian and international experts several years to
restore Šibenik’s cathedral after its shelling in 1991. Its
original construction by renowned Dalmatian and Italian
artists began in 1432 and was completed in 1555. The
original project was entrusted to the Venetian Antonio Dalle
Masegne, who built the lower Gothic level. His successor,
Juraj Dalmatinac (see p24), designed the upper Renaissance
part of the sculptures by the doors, the 72 faces on the
outside of the apse, many of the capitals, the tomb of Juraj
Šižgorić and, along with Andrija Aleši, the beautiful baptistry.
On Dalmatinac’s death in 1475, the work was continued by
Nikola Firen tinac, who built the splendid presbytery with the
choir, the dome, the galleries and vaulted roof. The Adam
and Eve by the Door of Lions are by Bonino of Milan.


















Transept
The transept is surmounted with a
square structure below the dome;
on three sides is an arch bearing a
statue. The stones were worked in
such a way that they fitted together
without the need for mortar.

KEY
1 The exterior is decorated with
72 sculpted human faces on the
cornice, the work of Juraj Dalmatinac
and his assistants.
2 The Dome, a unique structure
built of interlocking slabs of stone,
was badly damaged in 1991.
3 The barrelled roof, built, like
the rest of the cathedral, entirely in
local stone, is a tribute to the great
technical skill of the stone-cutters.
4 The Gothic doorway is
decorated with groups of sculptures . Presbytery
of saints ascending the arch, which is The finely worked stone stalls were made by Juraj
framed by two spires. Dalmatinac and Nikola Firentinac. Other sculpted
reliefs adorn the upper parts.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


110-111_EW_Croatia.indd 110 20/10/16 12:31 pm

ŠIBENIK  111

. Baptistry VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
At the end of the right aisle is an
impressive baptistry with many Practical Information
statues and reliefs sculpted by Trg Republike Hrvatske 1.
Juraj Dalmatinac, Nikola Firentinac Tel (022) 214 418.
and Andrija Aleši. The fine Open daily. 7 8
baptismal font is supported ∑ sibenik.hr/vodic-eng/
by three putti.
sibenik/kulturno_povijesna_
bastina2.asp





Façade
The symmetrical façade has an
arched tympanum in the centre.
The taller central section has a rose
window in the centre and a smaller
one above on the tympanum. The
façade is framed by two pilasters
and has only one door.






































Interior
The three-aisle interior is divided by columns
with carved capitals supporting pointed
arches. The tall central nave has a frieze
and women’s gallery.




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112  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

9 Drniš sculptor (see p163) built the here on Mount Spas. It was used
Church of the Most Holy by reigning Croat monarchs,
Map D4. * 3,400. £ Šibenik, 25 km
(15 miles), (022) 333 699. @ Šibenik, Redeemer here for himself and who often stayed in the nearby
(022) 216 066. n Domovinskog rata his family. It is simply designed town of Biskupija and held
5, (022) 888 619. ∑ tz-drnis.hr in the form of a stone cube with coronations here.
a shallow dome. Early in the 11th century
The town of Drniš first appears Knin became a bishopric
in documents towards the end and the residence of several
of the 15th century, as the site aristocratic Croatian families.
of a fort built to stop a Turkish Occupied by the Turks in the
invasion, at the point where the early 16th century, in 1688
River Čikola cuts into the valley Knin fell to the Venetians.
and flows down towards Šibenik. The Morlachs, in the pay
In 1526 the fort was captured of Venice, distinguished
and enlarged by the Turks, who themselves in the battle to
made it one of their outposts. retake the fort by scaling the
A village with a mosque and walls. Afterwards they rebuilt
baths developed around the the fort and settled in the town.
fort, but during the wars In 1991, the Serbian army
between Venice and the used the fort when most of
Ottoman empire, from 1640 to the inhabitants of Croat origin
1650, the fort and the village were forced out. It became a
were almost entirely destroyed focus for the Serb rebellion
by the Venetians. In the recon­ Church of the Most Holy Redeemer in and the Republic of the Serb
struction that followed the Otavice, near Drniš Krajina, of which Knin was the
mosque was remodelled capital, was created. In August
and became the Church of 1995 the territory was returned
St Anthony. The minaret became 0 Knin to the Croats.
the bell tower of the church of Map D4. * 12,000. £ (022) 663 722.
St Roch. Serbs populated the n Dr. Franje Tuđmana 24, (022) 664 Environs
town and it became part of the 822. ∑ tz-knin.hr About 5 km (3 miles) away is
Krajina territory. Biskupija, once known as the
Along the road from Drniš to A town on the main road from “Field of five churches”, for its
Šibenik, the ruins of defence Zagreb to Split, Knin has long religious buildings (9th–11th
structures with high walls and played an important role in centuries) attended by the
a tower can be seen. Dalmatia’s history. It occupies a Croat kings. King Zvonimir
strategic position on the plateau, was killed here by Croat
Environs and there have been defences of nobles who did not accept his
Some 9 km (5 miles) east some kind here since prehistoric allegiance to the pope. By the
of Drniš is the village of times. In the 10th century, when main building is a church
Otavice, the birthplace of Ivan the town was known as Ad designed by Ivan Meštrović
Meštrović’s parents. The great Tenen, the Fort of Knin was built and frescoed by Jozo Kljaković.






















Imposing Fort of Knin, on Mount Spas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


112-113_EW_Croatia.indd 112 20/10/16 12:28 pm

D ALM A TIA  113

q Sinj
Map D5. * 11,500. £ Split. @ Split.
n Put Petrovca 12, (021) 826 352.
_ Madonna of Sinj Festival (Aug);
Sinjska alka jousting tournament
(1st Sun Aug). ∑ visitsinj.com
On the Cetina plateau the
Romans founded Aequum,
the present-day Čitluk, on
the road towards Bosnia, but
the Avars and Slavs forced the
inhabitants to abandon the
town and move to a nearby
hill called Castrum Zyn which, Primošten, once an island but now linked to the mainland
once fortified, was safer and
easier to defend. w Klis e Primošten
In the 14th century, some Map D5. * 2,300. £ Split. @ Split. Map D5. * 1,800. £ Split. @ Split,
Franciscan monks fleeing Bosnia n Megdan 57, (021) 240 578. (021) 329 180. 4 Marina, (022) 570
came here and built a Franciscan ∑ tzo-klis.htnet.hr 068. n Trg biskupa J. Arnerića 2, (022)
Monastery (Franjevački 571 111. _ Gospe od Loreta (May);
samostan) and a church. The little village of Klis is Summer Carnival (Jun); Primoštenske
The town, by now called Sinj, dominated by an imposing užance (Aug). ∑ tz-primosten.hr
was captured by the Turks in Fort which consists of three
1513 and remained in their concentric walls. It was founded Originally an isolated island,
possession until 1686 when it by the Romans on a hill above a Primošten is now connected to
was liberated by the Venetians. mountain pass which led from the mainland by a bridge and a
The star-shaped Kamičak Fort, the plateau onto the plain. The causeway. The name Primošten
was built with a tall observation Venetians strength ened the fort means “brought closer by a
tower, enabling Sinj horsemen and enlisted the Uskoks to help bridge”. It was inhabited in pre-
to mount a surprise attack on fight off the Turks, who however historic times, and was settled by
Ottoman troops attempting finally captured it in 1537. Bosnian refugees fleeing from
to recapture the town, in 1715. The Turks enlarged the fort, the Turks. Under Venetian rule,
In gratitude to the Miraculous building a mosque and a walls were built around the town.
Madonna for their victory, the minaret and from here they The top of the town is dominated
townspeople gave her image a menaced the city of Split until by the Church of St George, built
golden crown. 1648 when they were driven off in the late 15th century and
This historical event is by Venetian troops. The fort was enlarged around 1760. Inside is
commemorated every year on in use until the Austrians took an icon of the Virgin on a silver
the first Sunday in August with over. The mosque was turned panel, and a Baroque altar.
a jousting tournament (Sinjska into a church and the minaret A resort with pebbly beaches
alka), when expert riders take was demolished. and bike trails, Primošten is also
part in a competition to capture The town’s restaurants are famous for its vineyards (see p135)
a shield, the symbol of victory. particularly known for their and a rich red wine called Babić.
The Museum of Sinjska alka excellent spit-roasted lamb.
tells the story of this tournament,
a regional tradition that has r Marina
taken place since the early Map D5. * 1,000. n Trg Stjepana
18th century. Radića 1, (021) 889 015.
The Franciscan church, which
has been rebuilt at various Situated in the bay of the
times, is a popular pilgrimage same name, Marina is a small,
site. The monastery has been picturesque Dalmatian town
renovated and some of the and has a marina and a pretty
rooms house archaeological beach. The village, surrounded
finds from ancient Aequum. by top-quality olive groves, has
been inhabited since the 15th
R Franciscan Monastery century. Nearby, in a naturally
A Stepinca 1. Tel (021) 707 010. protected inlet, is the Yachting
Open by appt only. Sport Agana marina. Also
E Museum of Sinjska alka located in the Riviera Marina
Put Petrovca 12. Tel (021) 444 region are the small towns of
730. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Sun. Fort of Klis, the scene of many Vinišće, Poljica and Sevid. These
∑ alka.hr bloody battles are all rich in archaeological sites.




112-113_EW_Croatia.indd 113 20/10/16 12:28 pm

114  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

t Trogir R Cathedral of St Lawrence
Sv. Lovre
Set on a small island just off the mainland, Trogir is one Trg Ivana Pavla II. Tel (091) 531 4754.
of the jewels of the Dalmatian coast, with many splen did Open mid-May–Oct: 9am–8pm; Nov–
mid-May: by appt.
monuments. The Greeks of Issa (now Vis) first settled here
in the 3rd century BC, when they founded the fortified The cathedral stands on the site
of an ancient church destroyed
town of Tragyrion (island of goats) which became Tragurium by the Saracens. Construction
under the Romans in 48 BC. In the Middle Ages Trogir was started in 1193, but was
protected by the Byzantine fleet, but in 1123 it was attacked prolonged for decades and
and destroyed by the Saracens, and abandoned by the few involved dozens of artists. The
surviving inhabitants. It revived again 70 years later and a three-aisle building has three
semicircular apses: the central
period of artistic growth ensued, first under the kings of nave is higher than the side
Hungary and, from 1420, under Venetian rule. In 1997 aisles from which it is divided
Trogir was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. by eight columns.
There are two entrances.
The side door, known as “the
count’s”, is very simple, and
dated 1213. The other entrance
is a magnificent Romanesque
door under an atrium, to the
right of which stands a beautiful
Gothic bell tower, built between
the late 14th century and the
beginning of the 17th century.
This door was carved in around
1240 by the Dalmatian sculptor
Master Radovan (see p24), and
is the finest expression of
Romanesque sculpture to be
found in Dalmatia. Two stone
Seafront of Trogir, with Kamerlengo Castle in the distance lions support statues of Adam
and Eve either side of the door.
Most of the old historic centre E Civic Museum Next to them are pilasters
of the town is on an island Muzej grada Trogira depicting saints in Byzantine
and is encircled by a wall Gradska vrata 4. Tel (021) 881 406. style. Scenes of the different
with two gates. A bridge now Open Jun & Sep: 9am–noon, 5–8pm months of the year are carved
joins the island to the mainland Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: 9am–noon, on the middle pilasters.
and another links it to the 6–9pm daily; Oct–May: 9am–2pm Above the door, in the large
island of Čiovo. Tourism is Mon–Fri. & 8 ^ lunette, is a relief of the Nativity
important to the town: ice- On the other side of the Land and in the semicircles are
cream parlours, restaurants Gate is the Baroque Garagnin episodes from the life of Jesus. The
and pizzerias line the small Fanfogna Palace, now the door is enclosed under a sloping
squares. The main public and Civic Museum, with 18th- roof with a corbel at the top with
religious monuments, and century furnishings. There a statue of St Lawrence. In the
other important buildings, are archaeological collections, atrium is a baptistry designed by
have been the subject of documents and antique clothes Andrija Aleši in around 1460 with
restoration work. linked to the town’s history. a relief of the Baptism of Christ.
P Land Gate P Stafileo Palace
Sjeverna vrata Palača Stafileo
Rebuilt in the 17th century, Matije Gupca 20. Closed to the public.
this gate was made from a Stafileo Palace was built in the
tall doorway in pale rusticated late 15th century. A series of five
stone, with grooves which windows in Venetian Gothic
once supported a drawbridge. style punctuates each of the
On the cornice above the two floors, the openings framed
arch once stood the lion of by pillars, capitals and carved
St Mark and, above that, on a arches. Around the arches are
pedestal, stands a statue of the reliefs of flowers and leaves.
Blessed John of Trogir (Sv. Ivan The design is attributed to the
Trogirski), one of the town’s school of Juraj Dalmatinac, who The intricate Romanesque door of the
patron saints. worked for many years in Trogir. Cathedral of St Lawrence
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


114-115_EW_Croatia.indd 114 20/10/16 12:31 pm

TROGIR  115


the centre, the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
sarcophagus of the
Blessed Orsini, the first Practical Information
bishop of Trogir. The Map D5. * 10,500. n Trg Ivana
sculptures are by Nikola Pavla II 1, (021) 885 628.
Firentinac, Andrija Aleši ∑ tztrogir.hr
and Ivan Duknović. Transport
In the sacristy are k Split Airport, 7 km (5 miles).
paintings by Salvator £ Split, 30 km (18 miles). @
Rosa and Gentile (021) 881 405. 4 (021) 881 508.
Bellini, cabinets
carved by Grgur Vidov,
The cathedral of St Lawrence dominates the square and a Treasury with windows on each side: the
many gold pieces, north and south walls have
The church interior contains an reliquaries and paintings dating mullioned windows with four
octagonal stone pulpit from the from the 17th century. trefoil eyes, those on the east
13th century built and sculpted The tall bell tower was built in and west walls are surmounted
by Mauro, a choir with wooden the 14th century, but was partly by fretwork grilles, with columns
stalls inlaid by Ivan Budislavić destroyed during the wars early and capitals at the centre and
towards the mid-15th century, in the following century and corners, giving a feeling of
and a ciborium on the main only the ground floor remains lightness to the entire floor.
altar with sculptures depicting of the original building. When Recent studies attribute this
the Annunciation. On the altars Trogir became part of Venetian work to the Italian sculptor
are paintings by Palma il territory, the bell tower was Lorenzo Pincino, who worked
Giovane and Padovanino. rebuilt. The first floor, with a in Trogir and Dalmatia for many
Along the left aisle is the balustrade by Matej Gojković years, with the assistance of
chapel of the Blessed Orsini, a (1422), is in the Gothic style, local craftsmen.
masterpiece by Nikola Firentinac with two narrow mullioned The third storey, from the late
and Andrija Aleši made in 1468– windows with a trefoil, 16th century, was built by the
72, with 12 statues of the apostles surmounted by blind arches. sculptor Trifun Bokanić and has
in shell-shaped niches and, in The second level has two tall large arched openings.

Trogir Town Centre
1 Land Gate q Church of St Dominic
2 Civic Museum w Kamerlengo Castle
3 Stafileo Palace and St Mark’s Tower 7 km (5 miles)
Airport
4 Cathedral of St Lawrence JADRANSKA MAGISTRALA
5 Čipiko Palace Bus
Station
6 Town Hall Market
7 Loggia and Clock Tower
8 Church of St John the Baptist
9 Sea Gate and Fish Market
0 Church of St Nicholas Land Gate BLAŽA JURJEVA TROGIRANINA
Civic
H R V A T S K I H M U Č E N I K A S U B I C E V A MATIJE GUPCA TRG IVANA Cathedral of
RADOVANOV
Museum
TRG
Čipiko
St Lawrence
Palace
GRADSKA
Town
Hall
Loggia and
Palace
S I N J S K A Stafileo Clock Tower PAVLA II Church of
St John the Baptist
MATICE HRVATSKE AUGUSTINA KAŽOTIĆA M O R N A R S K A IVANA DUKNOVIĆA GRADSKA
St Mark’s O B R O V
Tower Walls
Church of
Sea Gate St Nicholas
VUKOVARSKA and Fish
Market
HRVATSKOG PROLJEČA 1971
RIVA
Marmont’s Kamerlengo Church of Small
Gloriette Castle St Dominic Loggia
OBALA BANA BERISLAVIĆA
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
For keys to symbols see back flap
114-115_EW_Croatia.indd 115 20/10/16 12:31 pm

116  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


Exploring Trogir Ivana Pavla II). The Loggia
has a roof supported by six
A good time to visit Trogir is the late spring or columns with Roman capitals
early autumn, when the narrow streets, flanked by and dates from the 14th
ancient stone houses, are not so busy with summer century. On the wall are two
visitors, and there is space to stop and admire the reliefs, one from 1471 sculpted
by Nikola Firentinac (Justice),
ingenious architectural details that make this and one from 1950 by Ivan
island so fascinating. A carved doorway, a coat of Meštrović (Ban Berislavić).
arms or a mullioned window may decorate the The Clock Tower stands to the
façade of a building; the entrance to a courtyard left of the Loggia. It supports
may offer glimpses of scented gardens. These are all a pavilion dome, salvaged
in 1447 from the Chapel of
indications of a once widespread prosperity and also the Oratory of St Sebastian.
evidence of Trogir’s cultural past, when it was an The saint’s statue on the
important centre for the arts. After many years of façade was sculpted by
hardship and neglect, the town has been restored Nikola Firentinac.
to its former glory.
R Church of St John
the Baptist
central ones hold a scroll with Sv. Ivan Krstitelj
the coats of arms of the Čipiko Open ask at tourist office for timings.
family. The second floor lacks This small Romanesque
a balustrade, and is similar church, built in the 13th
in style to the lower floor, century, is the pantheon of
although its decorations the powerful Čipiko family. The
are less ornate. church housed an Art Gallery
A second door, opening on (Pinacoteca) with collections
to a side street, has a complex of medieval illuminated manu­
structure. Two fluted door jambs scripts, ornaments, paintings
support capitals with carved and precious gold pieces from
foliage decoration and a stone various churches, but this is
cornice with two sculpted lions now in the Museum of Sacred
holding a coat of arms. These Art near the cathedral of
are flanked by two sculptures St Lawrence. The collection
of angels in medallions. also includes a sculpture
(Deposition) by Nikola Firentinac,
A Renaissance well in the courtyard of P Town Hall organ panels by Gentile Bellini
Čipiko Palace Gradska vijećnica (St Jerome and St John the
Trg Ivana Pavla II. Baptist) and two polyptychs
P Čipiko Palace On the eastern side of the by Blaise of Trogir.
Palača Čipiko square is the Town Hall. This
Gradska ulica. Closed to the public, building originates from the
except courtyard. 15th century and has three
An inscription indicates 1457 storeys with open arches and
as the year of completion of a beautiful mullioned window
the beautiful Čipiko Palace, with a balustrade on the upper
built for Trogir’s most illustrious floor, which was restored in
family. Over a Renaissance the 19th century.
doorway, distinguished by its Numerous coats of arms
columns with capitals, is a shell decorate the façade which has
decoration above a finely three Renaissance doors framed
worked cornice. by projecting stone. The pretty
The first floor has a mullioned porticoed courtyard is open
window with a balustrade in to the public. However, the
light­coloured stone. In the interior, which has been altered
centre, two columns with at various times, has nothing of
capitals support pointed significant interest.
arches and at the ends of the
window are two thin pilasters P Loggia and Clock Tower
surmounted by capitals Gradska loža
with spiral decorations. Trg Ivana Pavla II. Open daily.
Between the arches are four The Loggia and the Clock Tower Doorway of the Romanesque church of
sculptures of angels. Two face John Paul II Square (Trg St John the Baptist
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

TROGIR  117


a lawyer, attributed to Nikola
Firentinac (1469), and a splendid
painting by Palma il Giovane
(Circumcision of Christ).
P Kamerlengo Castle and
St Mark’s Tower
Kaštel Kamerlengo
In the southwest corner of
the island stands Kamerlengo
Castle, which was at one time
the residence of the Venetian
governor. It was built by the
The 16th-century loggia where the Fish Market is housed Venetians in about 1430, and
is a four-sided structure with a
P Sea Gate and Fish Market R Church of St Nicholas hexagonal base. Facing the sea,
Južna vrata Sv. Nikola its high walls connect the three
Obala bana Berislavića. Gradska ulica 2. Tel (021) 881 631. towers and the bastion. This
The Sea Gate was built at the The church and Benedictine imposing structure was once
end of the 16th century and convent date from the 11th connected to St Mark’s Tower
has two beautiful columns century, but were rebuilt in (Kula svetog Marka). The large
made of blocks of light- the 16th century. The open space inside
coloured stone which frame convent rooms now the castle is used for
the opening and support a house the Zbirka outdoor theatre
projecting block on which Umjetnina Kairos, performances and
stands the lion of St Mark. an art collection concerts during the
Nearby is the Fish Market which includes the summer months.
which is held in an open Kairos, a relief of Greek St Mark’s Tower
loggia with nine columns origins (1st century BC) was built by the
supporting the roof. It was built depicting the god of Venetians after the
in 1527 and was formerly the opportunity, a Gothic construction of the
customs house. Crucifix, and a castle and has the
Romanesque statue Relief depicting Kairos, typical structure of
(The Virgin with Child). St Nicholas defences built in the
Renaissance period.
R Church of St Dominic A circular tower stands on a
Sv. Dominik truncated cone base and there
Obala bana Berislavića. Open summer: is a long series of embrasures
8am–noon, 4–7pm daily. on the roof. Artillery was
The Church and Monastery of installed on the top level in
St Dominic are Romanesque- readiness to defend the strip
Gothic buildings constructed of water that separates the
Ceremonial costumes made by the in the 14th century. They were island from the mainland.
tailor Boris Burić Gena renovated by Nikola Firentinac What was once the parade
in the Renaissance style. The ground, between the castle
Boris Burić Gena single-nave church contains and St Mark’s Tower, is now
Trogir can boast a unique the tomb of Giovanni Sobota, the town’s sports field.
present-day success story:
Boris Burić Gena, a tailor
who specializes in making
traditional Croatian suits. His
signature jackets are made
without lapels and have
antique-style brocade
buttonholes. They are often
worn in ceremonies and
parades. The careful choice of
fabrics, meticulous design and
matching of accessories have
made this talented craftsman’s
name. His workshop, the Burić
Palace, now draws wealthy
and famous clients from all
over Europe.
The imposing St Mark’s Tower, built for defence in 1470




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118  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

y Salona

The ancient town of Salona, 5 km (3 miles) from Split, is
famous for its Roman ruins. The name Salona (or Salonae)
is of Illyrian origin, but its meaning is unknown. Originally
an Illyrian settlement, it did not become an important centre
until the Romans built a town next to the Greek city. During
the rule of Augustus it became a Roman colony called Martia
Iulia Salona, and later it was the capital of the province of
Dalmatia. In the 1st and 2nd centuries AD the Romans built
an amphitheatre, a theatre, temples, baths, a Forum and town
walls reinforced with towers, and Salona became the richest
and most populated city in the mid-Adriatic. In the mid-7th
century, the Avars and the Slavs destroyed it and it fell into
disuse. The buildings and the churches were stripped and
the stone was used for new buildings. Narthex connecting the two basilicas
of early Christian basilicas, baths
Christian church was and the Caesarea Gate. The
constructed here to Baths were first built as a villa
house the relics of the in the 3rd century. In the early
Salonian saints, victims Christian period the buildings
of Diocletian’s persecu- were probably transformed
tion of Christians. The into religious buildings: the
ruins of the necropolis Episcopal Centre in the north-
and the basilica are eastern sector of Salona
well preserved. comprised basilicas, a baptistry
From Manastirine, and the bishop’s residence.
after the entrance, you Before Christianity became wide-
reach the Tusculum, spread, early Christian martyrs
a villa built in the last were slayed here, including
century for the distin- St Domnius (the patron saint of
guished archaeologist Split), Venantius and Anastasius.
Frane Bulić, to enable The foundations of two
Ruins of the walls and triangular tower him to study Salona. basilicas have been excavated.
A scholar and director One is known as the Urban
Exploring Salona of the Archaeological Museum Basilica, the other, called
At the beginning of the 19th in Split (see p125), he devoted Honorius’ Basilica, had a Greek
century excavations began to most of his life to researching cross plan. This is also the site of
bring to light the buried remains the ancient ruins of this city. what remains of the Caesarea
of this ancient settlement. The The building now houses Gate: arches flanked by two
work has clearly shown that the Frane Bulić’s memorial room. octagonal towers, showing the
town had three districts dating However, the most interesting building techniques used by
from different periods: the material is now in the the Romans in the Imperial era.
original, old centre (Urbs vetus) Archaeological Museum in Split. Going west along the walls
and a later part which dates Further on is the richest area you reach the Necropolis of
from the Augustan era (Urbs of ruins with the foundations Kapljuč, another early Christian
nova occidentalis and Urbs nova
orientalis). The excavations have
uncovered only a part of the
layout of the outer walls, which
were frequently reinforced over
the centuries. However, the
foundations and the remains of
towers with triangular or rectan-
gular reinforcements are visible.
A good place to begin a tour
is the Cemetery of Manastirine,
the first Christian cemetery just
outside the walls, north of the
city (near the parking area).
In the 4th century, an early Necropolis of Manastirine, just outside the walls
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


118-119_EW_Croatia.indd 118 20/10/16 12:28 pm

D ALM A TIA  119


and part of the stage VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and the foundations
of the stalls have been Practical Information
excavated. Next to the Map D5. n (021) 211 538.
theatre is the Forum, Open Apr, May & Sep: 9am–
the political and 7pm Mon–Fri, 8am–7pm Sat,
commercial heart of 9am–1pm Sun; Jun–Aug:
the city. Unlike the 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 8am–8pm
Forum in Zadar (see Sat, 9am–2pm Sun; Oct:
pp94–7), the paving 9am–6pm Mon–Fri, 8am–6pm
Basilica Urbana in the Bishop’s Complex was dismantled and Sat, 9am–1pm Sun; Nov–Mar:
9am–4pm Mon–Sat. 8
only the foundations ∑ solin-info.com
burial site, and then the imposing remain. In the Roman era some
ruins of the Amphitheatre, in of the most important buildings Transport
the easternmost part of the city. stood around the Forum, which @ from Split.
The amphitheatre, in stone, was begun in the 1st century
was probably covered in stone AD and subsequently modified.
and stood in the newer part of The best-preserved Roman use. Alongside the walls it is
the city on the northwest edge construction in ancient Salona possible to see some parts of
of Urbs vetus (Old Town) close is the Aqueduct, built to bring the aqueduct above the surface.
to the walls. water from the River Jadro to From the theatre you return to
According to historians, the the city and extended in the the Manastirine necropolis. North
amphitheatre could seat 18,000– time of Emperor Diocletian of this site is the Necropolis
20,000 people. The foundations to reach his palace in Split of Marusinac, built outside
and a part of the lower tribune (see pp122–3). Repair work was the city around the tomb of
were excavated and the discov- carried out at the end of the St Anastasius. In this area a few
ery of an underground channel 19th century and the southern traces of a basilica dating from
led to the theory that simulated part of the aqueduct is still in the 5th century are still visible.
naval battles were held in the
arena. However, this proved to
be wrong as the arena was
unsuitable for naval battles.
The amphitheatre’s
construction date was debated
over for a long time, but has
now been established as having
taken place in the second half
of the 2nd century AD.
From the amphi theatre,
another path leads to the theatre
at the edge of the old city. This
was built in the 1st century AD The Amphitheatre, of which only a part of the lower tribune remains

The Ruins of Salona Café Walls and
1 Cemetery of Manastirine Aqueduct
2 Tusculum
3 Baths
4 Episcopal Centre Sinj
5 Caesarea Gate
6 Necropolis of Kapljuć
7 Amphitheatre
8 Theatre URBS NOVA
9 Forum ORIENTALIS
0 Necropolis of Marusinac URBS NOVA
OCCIDENTALIS
URBS VETUS

0 metres 500
0 yards 500
Motorway E65 Modern town
Split
For keys to symbols see back flap


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120  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

u Split

Shipyards, factories and a busy port present the modern face
of Split, which expanded unchecked after World War II. The
Old Town centre is still full of charm however; it grew up in
and around the Emperor Diocletian’s vast Roman palace, one
of the largest and best-preserved left from the Roman world.
In 614, the palace took in refugees from Salona (see pp118–
19), which had been razed by the Avars, and these newcomers
began to use the Roman structure as housing. Among the
refugees were the bishop and other religious dignitaries,
who breathed new life into the bishopric of Split. After two
centuries of Byzantine rule and the establishment of Croat Baptismal font in the Baptistry of St John,
communities, Split became part of the Venetian territories in former Temple of Jupiter
1409. Under the Venetians, fortifications were built, including
new walls, and the arts flourished. R Cathedral of St Domnius
Katedrala sv. Duje
See p123.
abandoned parts of the
Diocletian complex. It P Silver Gate and Church
houses an exhibition of St Dominic
with various artistic Srebrna vrata i Sv. Dominik
finds, paintings and Hrvojeva ulica. Church of
books illustrating the St Dominic: Open am.
city’s celebrated history Near the Silver Gate there is a
from the 12th to the market, a wonderful chaos of
18th centuries. seasonal fruit and vegetables,
homemade cheeses, hams and
P Peristyle dried herbs. Because of the
The peristyle, the interior open space, this also provides
courtyard, of Diocletian’s the best view of the Palace of
Palace is an impressive Diocletian. It is still possible
part of the complex to distinguish the different
The port and the seafront of Split where the layers of structures of the complex, and
centuries of building can part of the guards’ corridor, on
P Golden Gate clearly be seen. The slim columns the walls, can be walked along.
Zlatna vrata bordering three sides rest on In front of the gate is the
This was the main entrance to a high plinth and have finely Oratory of St Catherine, built
Diocletian’s Palace (see p122) and worked capitals. The access to in the Middle Ages. It was used
was the most impressive of the the former private quarters of by the Dominicans while they
gates, with towers and decorative Dio cletian has a tall arched built their own monastery
elements above the arches. In tympanum and relief decorations. (1217). The oratory was rebuilt
the 11th century, the corridor in the 17th century and became
between the palace and the gate R Baptistry of St John the Church of St Dominic
was closed and turned into the Sv. Ivan Krstitelj (Sv. Dominik). Inside the church,
Church of St Martin (Sv. Martin). Tel (021) 345 602. which was enlarged in 1930, are
An inscription commemorates Open 9am–7pm daily. a Miracle in Surian by Palma il
Father Dominic, the founder. This small, beautiful building, Giovane and an Apparition in the
consecrated in the 6th century, Temple, attributed to his school.
E Split City Museum was the Palace’s Temple of
Muzej grada Splita Jupiter. Inside, the baptismal P Brass Gate
Papalićeva 1. Tel (021) 360 171. font incorporates a pre- Mjedena vrata
Open Apr & May: 8:30am–9pm daily; Romanesque panel of King Ethnographic Museum: Iza Vestibula
Jun–Sep: 8:30am–10pm daily; Oct: Zvonimir and other dignitaries. 4. Tel (021) 344 164. Open Jun–Sep:
8:30am–9pm Mon–Sat, 9am–5pm The statue of St John on the 9:30am–8pm Mon–Sat, 9:30am–
Sun; Nov–Mar: 9am–5pm Tue–Sat, end wall is by Ivan Meštrović 1pm Sun; Oct–May: 9am–4pm
9am–2pm Sun. & ∑ mgst.net and was added before World Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat. & 7
The Gothic Papalić Palace, War II. The tomb of Bishop John ∑ etnografski-muzej-split.hr
housing the Split City Museum, is from the 8th century and the Although the Brass Gate is plain
is one of the most interesting one in front of it, that of Bishop and faces the sea and port, it
of the 15th–16th-century Lawrence, dates from the opens on to the richest façade of
buildings constructed in the 11th century. the palace. The upper floor had a
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


120-121_EW_Croatia.indd 120 20/10/16 12:31 pm

SPLIT  121


portico which was later enclosed P Iron Gate VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
for living quarters. The vast cellars Željezna vrata
have been excavated to reveal The church of Our Lady of the Practical Information
impressive arched vaults and Belfry (Gospa od Zvonika) has Map D5. * 175,000. n Peristil
skilful masonry. Shops occupy the city’s oldest early Roman­ bb, (021) 345 606. _ St Domnius
some of these while others house esque bell tower (1081) and was Feast (7 May); Split Summer
an exhibition about the palace constructed in the outer passage­ (mid­Jul–mid­Aug).
and temporary local displays. way above this Palace entrance. ∑ visitsplit.com
Close to the Brass Gate, on Transport
Severova, is the Ethnographic P People’s Square k Split Airport: Kaštel Štafilić,
Museum (Etnografski muzej), Narodni trg (Pjaca) (021) 203 506. £ Obala kneza
displaying an array of skilled This was the centre of business Domagoja, (060) 333 444.
Dalmatian folk crafts. and administration from the @ Obala kneza Domagoja,
(060) 327 777. 4 Jadrolinija,
(021) 338 333.

15th century and so the
nobility erected prestigious
buildings here. Examples are
the Venetian­Gothic Cambi
Palace and the Renaissance
Town Hall (Vijećnica), built in
the first half of the 15th century,
with a loggia with three
arches on the ground floor
and a Gothic window on the
Renaissance Town Hall on People’s Square in the centre of Split upper floor.

Split Town Centre
1 Golden Gate 8 Iron Gate
2 Split City Museum 9 People’s Square
3 Peristyle 0 Braće Radić Square
4 Baptistry of St John q Church of St Francis
5 Cathedral of St Domnius Airport
6 Silver Gate and Archaeological Museum 20 km (12 miles)
POLJUD
Church of St Dominic KAŠTELA
7 Brass Gate S I N J S K A
NODILOVA Z A G R E B A Č K A


Strossmayerov
NIGEROVA
KRUŽIĆEVA
B A N A J E L A Č I Ć A
BOSANŠKA
BAN MLADENOVA REPUBLIKE M A R M O N T O V A KRAJ SV. MARIJE DOMALDOVA Town Hall K R A L J A T O M I S L A V A CARRARINA Park
Golden
Gate
DIOKLECIJANOVA
TRG
Fish
OBROV
Market
PEOPLE’S
POLJANA
SQUARE Iron Gate
H R V O J E V A
DOMINISOVA
Museum
Church of ZADARSKA ŠUBIĆEVA MARULIĆEVA KREŠIMIROVA PAPALIĆEVA Split City
DOBRIĆ
St Francis POLJANA
Baptistry
BRAĆE RADIĆA of St John PERISTYLE KRALJICE Silver Gate
JELENE
SQUARE
Museum of Croatian Cupola and Church
Archaeological Monuments, Cathedral of of St Dominic
Meštrović Gallery St Domnius
Main Hall
Diocletian’s
R I V A
Palace Food
Market
Brass
Gate
Harbour
Train station
200 m (220 yards)
Ferry port
0 metres 100 Key 400 m (440 yards)
0 yards 100 Area of illustration, p122
For keys to symbols see back flap
120-121_EW_Croatia.indd 121 20/10/16 12:31 pm

122  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


Palace of Diocletian

Diocletian, probably a native of Salona, became emperor in 284.
He made Maximian joint Augustus, senior co-emperor, in 285,
and then in 293 he appointed Galerius and Constantius as
Caesars, junior co-emperors (the Tetrarchy). After governing
for 20 years, Diocletian retired from public life and in 305 moved
to the palace which he had commissioned from the architects
Filotas and Zotikos in the bay of Split. After Diocletian’s death
in 316, the palace was used as administrative offices and the
governor’s residence. In 615, refugees from Salona found shelter
here after the destruction of their city by the Avars. The richest
settled in the emperor’s apartments, the poorer in the towers and
above the gates. The corners of the palace were marked by four Iron Gate and the Clock Tower
square towers, and four towers along the north, east and south This is the best-preserved gate:
sides, while the side facing the sea had a loggia with arches. beyond is the church of Our
Lady of the Belfry with a
Temple of Jupiter 12th-century tower next to it.
This had an atrium with six
columns. The body of the
building had a coffered vault and
rested on an underground crypt.
In the early Middle Ages it was
turned into the Baptistry
of St John.

















The Temples of Venus and
Cybele were circular outside
and had a hexagonal ground-
plan inside. A colonnaded
corridor ran around the outside.


The Mausoleum of Diocletian,
now the Cathedral of
St Domnius

Peristyle
Near the crossroads where the Cardo and
Decumanus intersected, the peristyle gave access
to the sacred area. On one side were the temples
of Venus and Cybele and, further back, that of
Jupiter (now the Baptistry of St John); on the other
side, the Mausoleum, now the cathedral.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–31 and pp238–49


122-123_EW_Croatia.indd 122 20/10/16 12:31 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

SPLIT  123


R Cathedral of St Domnius
Katedrala sv. Duje
Kraj sv. Duje 5. Tel (021) 345 602.
Open Jun–Aug: 8am–sunset daily;
Sep–May: 9am–noon, 4:30–
7:30pm daily.
Originally the mausoleum of
the emperor Diocletian, the
cathedral was consecrated
in the 7th century when the
sarcophagus containing the
Portrait of Diocletian body of Diocletian was
After reorganizing the empire, removed and replaced, with
the emperor sought the spiritual a certain poetic justice, by
unification of its citizens. The the remains of St Domnius
state religion, personified by the (locally St Duje), a 3rd-century
emperor, gained in importance, bishop martyred as part of
and temples were constructed Diocletian’s persecution of
bearing his image. Christians the early Christians. It was the
were subject to extremely archbishop of Split at the
violent persecution.
time who transformed the The 13th-century hexagonal pulpit,
mausoleum into a Christian Cathedral of St Domnius
The Golden Gate, facing church, and St Domnius
Salona, was the main entrance became the city’s patron saint. columns, most of them the
to the palace. This was the
most imposing of the The structure is widely Roman originals; above these is
gates with two towers regarded as the oldest Catholic a frieze decorated with scenes
and many decorations. cathedral in the world that has of Eros hunting, supporting
not been substantially rebuilt medallions with portraits of
at any time. Since being Diocletian and his wife Prisca.
first built it has remained In the second niche on the
practically unaltered right, with frescoes dating
except for the from 1428, is the Altar of
construction of a St Domnius, the work of
Romanesque bell Bonino of Milan (1427). The
tower (12th–16th wooden choir stalls in the
centuries) and the addition of 17th-century presbytery are
the 13th-century choir inside. an example of Romanesque
An ancient sphinx in black carving from the beginning
granite rests at the foot of the of the 13th century.
bell tower. The entrance To the side is a chapel
doorway has wooden panels housing the Altar of St
from 1214, with scenes from Anastasius, designed in 1448
the Gospel in floral frames. by Juraj Dalmatinac. The niche
The Silver Gate, or The cathedral, built on an after this was altered in the
eastern gate, was a octagonal ground-plan, has a 18th century to create the
simpler copy of the
Golden Gate. double order of Corinthian Baroque chapel of St Domnius.
The 13th-century hexagonal
pulpit is supported by thin
Reconstruction of columns with carved capitals.
Diocletian’s Palace The 14th-century building
The palace, shown here in its behind the cathedral houses
original form, was like a typical the sacristy and the name of
Roman military camp. It was one of the architects, Filotas, is
215 m (705 ft) long and 180 m inscribed by the entrance. In
(590 ft) wide and was enclosed the sacristy, now the Cathedral
by very thick walls, at times Museum, are many works of
28 m (92 ft) high. The four-sided art, including objects in gold
stronghold was reinforced with and silver, ancient manu scripts,
towers on the north, east and medieval icons and vestments.
west sides. There is a gate on Of particular importance
each side, connected by two are the Historia Saloniana
roads corresponding to the written by Arch deacon Toma
Roman Cardo and Decumanus. Detail of the Altar of St Anastasius, in the 13th century and a
Cathedral of St Domnius 7th-century Gospel.




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124  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


Exploring Split
As well as Diocletian’s palace, Split has much in the way of
historical and artistic interest to offer. In the medieval period,
villages were built near the walls. When the city became
a free town, settlements became physically linked. The
present-day Braće Radić Square and the People’s Square were
built, along with the Cambi Palace and the Town Hall. After
1420, construction of the external defences began and town
walls were built. Between Split and Trogir, castles built for
defence against the Turks still survive.

R Church of St Francis
Sv. Frane
Trg Republike. n (021) 348 600 Distant Accords by Ivan Meštrović,
(tourist office). Open by appt. Meštrović Gallery
The church has been rebuilt
in recent times but the small E Meštrović Gallery
Romanesque-Gothic cloister, Galerija Meštrović
with thin columns enclosing Šetalište Ivana Meštrovića 46. Tel (021)
a flower garden, is original. 340 800. Open May–Sep: 9am–7pm
The church, with mainly Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 9am–4pm Tue–
Baroque furnishings, has a Sat, 10am–3pm Sun. & - =
15th-century crucifix by Blaž ∑ mestrovic.hr
Juriev Trogiranin. It also houses The building housing this
the tombs of the city’s illustrious gallery was the residence of
citizens, including that of Ivan Meštrović in the early 1930s
Archdeacon Toma (the first (see p163). The sculptor himself
The 15th-century Marina Tower, built by Dalmatian historian), writer designed the building to be his
the Venetians Marko Marulić and the well- family house, studio and gallery.
known composer Ivan Lukačić. His sculptures, including Distant
P Braće Radić Square Accords and Persephone,
Trg braće Radić E Museum of Croatian decorate the garden and the
This medieval square is at the Archaeological Monuments interior. Among statues in
southwest corner of Diocletian’s Muzej hrvatskih arheoloških marble, wood and bronze are
Palace. The tall Marina Tower spomenika The Contemplation, The Vow and
(Hrvojeva kula) is the only Stjepana Gunjace bb. Tel (021) 323 Psyche. Part of the building still
evidence of the imposing 901. Open Jul & Aug: 9am–1pm, preserves the artist’s apartments.
castle built by the Venetians 5–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–2pm Sat; Sep– The Kaštilac, further down
in the second half of the Jun: 9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm the road at No. 39, can be
Sat. Closed Sun, public hols.
15th century after the final 7 ^ ∑ mhas-split.hr visited with the same ticket. This
defeat of Split. Built on an 16th-century residence once
octagonal ground-plan, it Set up in 1975, this belonged to the Capogrosso-
stands on the southern museum houses finds from Kavanjin family and was bought
side of the square. the area around Split dating by Meštrović in 1939 to set up
On the northern side from the early Middle Ages. an exhibition hall. The artist also
is the Baroque Milesi The collection also includes built a small church here to
Palace, which dates from the works of early Croat exhibit a series of reliefs called
the 17th century. There sculptors, dating from 800. New Testament, now replaced
is also a work by Ivan The stone fragments, by a different work, the Author
Meštrović in the centre salvaged from churches of the Apocalypse.
of the square: the great Monument to Marko and castles, consist
monument to Marko Marulić mainly of tombs, capitals, E National Art Gallery
Marulić, the writer and altar fronts, ciboria and Galerija umjetnina
scholar (1450–1524) windows. Highlights include Ulica kralja Tomislava 15. Tel (021)
who was the founder Prince Višeslav’s hexagonal 350 110. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep:
of literature in the Croatian baptismal font in marble, dating 10am–9pm Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–mid-
language. The imposing from the beginning of the 9th Jun: 10am–6pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm
bronze statue dedicated to century, and the sarcophagus Sat & Sun. Closed Sun, public hols.
the writer has an inscription of Queen Jelena (10th century), & 8 7 - = ∑ galum.hr
with some verses by the discovered in the ancient The gallery offers a broad
poet Tin Ujević. Roman city of Salona. overview of art in Split and the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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Size 125mm x 217mm

SPLIT  125


rest of Croatia from the 14th to are fine views out to sea, with
the 20th centuries. As well as the islands of Šolta, Brač and
the Venetian masters there are Hvar clearly visible. You can also
also important icons from the find the best beaches in Split in
so-called school of Bocche di this pleasant area.
Cattaro (18th–19th centuries)
and more contemporary work, Environs
including works by Ivan Meštrović Seven Castles (Kaštela) is the
and Vlaho Bukovac. Temporary name given to a series of
exhibitions are also held here. fortifications built by the
Polyptych by Girolamo da Santacroce, Venetian governor and local
E Archaeological Our Lady of Grace nobles to defend the town
Museum Split against the Turks between the
Arheološki muzej u Splitu marsh (poljud). In the 1400s, end of the 15th century and the
Zrinsko Frankopanska 25. Tel (021) the Franciscans built a fortified 16th century, between Split and
329 340. Open Jun–Sep: 9am–2pm, monastery here with large Trogir. The village of Kaštela
4–8pm Mon–Sat; Oct–May: lateral towers, and a church grew up around the complex.
9am–2pm, 4–8pm Mon–Fri, with a trussed roof. Five of the original castles are
9am–2pm Sat. & 8 7 A polyptych by still preserved, as are the forti-
The museum was Girolamo da fied villas which rose from their
founded in 1820 and Santacroce from reconstruction.
has been on its 1549 stands on the St George’s Castle (Kaštel
present site since main altar, depicting Sućurac), the summer residence
1914. It contains a the Virgin and Saints: the of the bishop of Split, was built
considerable number Sarcophagus, figure holding a model at the end of the 14th century
of finds from the Archaeological of the city is St Domnius, and strengthened the following
Roman, early Christian Museum Split patron saint of Split. century by building a wall, of
and medieval periods Many works of art are which some traces remain.
which are exhibited in rotation. on display, including a Portrait Abbess Castle (Kaštel Gomilica)
Of great interest are the finds of Bishop Tommaso Nigris by was built on an island which is
from Roman Salona, including Lorenzo Lotto (1527) and now linked to the mainland.
sculptures, capitals, sarcophagi miniatures by Bone Razmilović. Vitturi Castle (Kaštel Lukšić)
(those from the 4th–5th century Not far from the monastery was transformed into a large
still have pagan reliefs), jewel- is the stadium of the famous villa, keeping only the old
lery, coins, small objects in glazed Hajduk Split football team, built external structure. It was
terra cotta and ceramics. There in 1979 in the suburb of Poljud built by the Vitturi family,
are also finds from the Roman and designed by Boris Magaš. who donated a sculpture
town of Narona (see p136). by Juraj Dalmatinac to the
Y Marjan Peninsula church of St Raynerius (Sv.
R Our Lady of Grace This protected nature reserve Arnir). Old Castle (Kaštel Stari)
in Poljud is on the west side of town, has kept its original aspect; the
Gospa od Poljuda and is reached by a winding sea- facing side looks like a
Poljudsko šetalište 17. n (021) 381 flight of steps. On the way is palace with Gothic windows.
011. Open by appt. the 13th-century church of All that remains of the New
Towards Zrinsko-Franko panska St Nicholas (Sv. Nikola). A path Castle (Kaštel Novi) are the
in the direction of the suburbs leads out to the wooded tower and St Roch church,
lies an area once called the peninsula, from where there built by the Čipiko family.
















Stadium of the Hajduk football team, built in 1979 in the suburb of Poljud




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126  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


i Šolta
Map D5. * 1,400. 4 from Split.
n Rogač, (021) 654 657.
∑ visitsolta.com
This long island, indented
with bays and coves, covers
an area of 52 sq km (20 sq
miles). The economy is based
on agriculture thanks to
reasonably fertile soil and,
over recent years, tourism
has also become important.
The Romans called the island The mainland from Supetar on Brač island
Solenta and it was a holiday
resort for the nobility of Salona. o Brač and then to Split. Both Split and
The ruins of many villas can Map D5. *14,000. k (021) 559 711. Brač came under Byzantine and
be found in lovely locations 4 to Supetar from Split. @ (060) 393 then Venetian rule. Under the
on the island. 060. Supetar: n Porat 10, (021) 630 Venetians (1420–1797), villages
After the attack on Salona 900. ∑ supetar.hr Bol: n Porat were built in the interior but no
in 614, some of the refugees bolskih pomoraca bb, (021) 635 638. defences were built to prevent
fled here and villages were ∑ bol.hr the pirates and Turks landing.
built. Some still have small Ferries from Split on the
churches dating from the The third largest island in the mainland dock at the Old Town
early Middle Ages. The island Adriatic at 40 km (25 miles) of Supetar, which has some
was later abandoned in favour long and 15 km (9 miles) good pebble beaches and
of Split, due to constant wide, Brač has an interesting shallow bays popular with
Turkish raids – though some geological structure. In some families. Supetar’s graveyard
refugees from the mainland areas the ranges of limestone is the site of the impressive
did settle here. hills have sinkholes and are cut Petrinović Mausoleum, a richly
Today, many people from by ravines and gorges. In other decorated rotunda designed
Split have holiday homes on areas a white, hard stone by sculptor Toma Rosandić.
Šolta. The fishing ports of prevails. The stone has been To the southwest lies the
Stomorska, at the eastern end quarried since ancient times town of Milna, which was
of the island, and Maslinica, at (see p140) and is still much founded at the beginning of
the west, both lie in beautiful sought after. The island the 18th century and faces a
bays with plenty of nearby is covered with a
opportunities for swimming. mixture of woodland,
There are many pretty inlets Mediterranean scrub,
near Maslinica that make ideal and olive groves.
moorings for yachts and motor- Although Brač has
boats. But it is worth venturing always been inhabited,
inland, too: the main inland it was first subject
villages of Grohote and Donje to Salona (the rich
Selo are characteristically Salonians built villas and
atmos-pheric Adriatic settle- also sought refuge here
ments of well-preserved stone when their town was
houses and narrow streets. attacked by the Avars), The port at Maslinica on Šolta
ŠOLTA
Rogač Supetar

Maslinica Grohote Škrip Pučišća Povlja
Stomorska
Nerežišća
Milna Selca
BRAČ Sumartin

Bol
Key
Major road 0 kilometres 10
Minor road 0 miles 10
For keys to symbols see back flap


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D ALM A TIA  127


sheltered bay. The exterior of A Dominican Monastery,
the church of the Annunciation founded in 1475, stands on a
of Mary (Gospa od Blagovijesti) headland at the edge of the
is Baroque and the interior is town. The beautiful church is
decorated in the Rococo style. decorated with paintings,
Nerežišća, in the centre of including a Virgin with Saints
the island, was for a long period attributed to Tintoretto. A rich
its main town. The Governor’s treasury includes liturgical
Palace, the Loggia and a objects.
pedestal with the lion of From Bol you can climb up
St Mark are signs of its former Mount St Vitus (Vidova Gora),
status. Also inland is Škrip, a 2-hour walk to one of the
probably the site of the first highest peaks in the Dalmatian
settlement on the island and islands, at 778 m (2,552 ft).
the presumed birthplace of Hidden in a ravine west of Pleasure boats and swimmers on the
Helen, mother of Emperor Mount St Vitus is Blaca southern coast of Brač
Constantine. The church and Hermitage (Pustinja Blaca), a
a painting by Palma il Giovane 16th-century fortified monastery with stone houses straggling
on the main altar are dedicated clinging to the rocky slopes. along the sides of a deep bay.
to Helen. A fortified building Now a museum, the hermitage The quaint port of Sumartin,
houses Brač Museum and contains an absorbing collection on the southeastern corner
exhibits archaeological finds, of religious relics together with of the island, is where ferries
evidence of humankind’s astronomical and other scientific from the mainland resort of
ancient presence on the island. equipment left behind by Makarska arrive. It was founded
The major attraction at Bol, former monks. Walking to Blaca by refugees from the Makarska
on the southern coast, is the is a popular excursion, if a region fleeing the Turks in 1645.
long beach on the western side somewhat hot and dry trek in There is a fine Franciscan
of town (Zlatni rat, meaning summer – it can be approached monastery, the foundations of
Golden Horn), a triangular spit from the north via Nerezišća or which were laid by the poet
of shingle which reaches out from the southeast from Bol. Andrija Kačić Miošić.
into the sea and changes shape There are further attractions
with the seasonal tides. Zlatni along the northern coast and to E Brač Museum
rat gets extremely busy in the east of the island. Along the Škrip. n (021) 637 092.
summer, with excursion boats coast from Supetar, quiet Open summer: 8am–8pm daily;
bringing tourists here from Lovrečina Bay is over-looked by winter: by appt.
resorts all over Brač and from the ruins of the 5th–6th century E Branislav Dešković Gallery
nearby Hvar island too. It is also Basilica of St Lawrence, a Put bolskih pomoraca bb, Bol.
a popular spot for windsurfing. pilgrimage site. Lying at the end n (021) 637 092. Open mid-Jun–
Bol itself is an attractive town, of a long sea inlet, Pučišća is mid-Sep: 9am–noon, 6–11pm Tue–
arranged around a picturesque the centre of the island’s stone Sun; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 9am–2pm
harbour. Occupying a water- quarrying industry, active since Tue–Fri.
front building, the Branislav at least Roman times. The blocks
Dešković Gallery displays were loaded onto ships at the E Dominican Monastery
paintings and sculpture by port. Povlja, further east still, is Anđelka Rabadana 4, Bol. n (021)
some of Croatia’s leading one of the island’s most 778 000. Open 10am–noon,
20th-century artists. charming former fishing ports, 5–8pm daily.

















Bol’s famous golden beach, changing shape with the tides
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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128  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

p Vis

Further out in the Adriatic than the other Dalmatian islands,
Vis was until 1989 a closed military base. Now gradually being
rediscovered by intrepid travellers, it has a jagged coastline
with beaches, and an inland mountain chain with Mount Hum
reaching a height of 587 m (1,925 ft). The island was chosen
by Dionysios of Syracuse as a base for Greek domination of
the Adriatic. The Greeks founded the town of Issa – now Vis
town – here. Later the island was ruled by the Romans, then
the Byzantines and, from 1420, the Venetians. The island
played a key role during World War II – in 1944 Marshal
Tito used it as a base for co-ordinating partisan military
operations. Crucial meetings between partisans, the Yugoslav
government in exile and the Allies were also held on Vis. The pretty town of Komiža and its
sheltered harbour
Vis Town monument in the form of a a small walled enclosure
The main town of Vis is ranged lion recalls the great sea battle honouring those who died
along the shores of a deep, that took place near here while stationed here during
broad bay. On a hillside behind between the Austrian and both the Napoleonic Wars and
a group of tennis courts are the Italian navies in 1866. World War II. A short walk uphill
remains of an ancient Greek On the southern side of Vis to the north of the town lie
cemetery, where you can see town’s bay is the Renaissance reminders of the early-19th-
the remains of tombstones left church of Our Lady of Spilica century British occupation
by the town’s first inhabitants. (Gospa od Spilica), with a of Vis – the King George III
Further along the north side painting by Girolamo di Fortress and the Bentich
of the bay are remnants of Santacroce. Occupying a Tower. Both are empty shells
Roman mosaics, once part former Austrian gun battery today, but are set in beautiful
of a 2nd-century baths is the Town Museum, with a countryside with good views.
complex. Just beyond, the rich collection of Greek and
Franciscan Monastery Church Roman vases and amphorae. E Town Museum
sits on a small peninsula Further north, the suburb of Gospina batarija. n (021) 711 729.
bordered by pebble beaches. Kut is a charming warren of Open Jun–Sep: 9am–1pm, 5–9pm
Also on the peninsula is the alleyways and piazzas. Beyond Mon–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat; Oct–May:
town’s graveyard, where a Kut lies the British Cemetery, by appt for groups only.


Key
Minor road
Stončica
Vis
Komiža VIS
Podstražje







BIŠEVO


0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3

For keys to symbols see back flap


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D ALM A TIA  129


Komiža VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
On the western side of the
island lies Komiža, a quaint Practical Information
port long associated with the Road Map D6. * 4,300.
anchovy-fishing industry. Lined Vis town: n Šetalište stare Isse 5,
with handsome stone houses, (021) 717 017. ∑ tz-vis.hr
Komiža harbour is one of the Komiža: n (021) 713 455.
most attractive in the Adriatic. ∑ tz-komiza.hr
Right on the quayside. A defen- Transport
sive tower, built by the Venetians 4 from Split and Hvar;
and known as the Kaštel, is righ Jadrolinija, (021) 711 032.
on the quayside. It now houses
the Fishing Museum, which
commemo rates the swift Falkuša outside Plisko Polje were used
sailing boats unique to this town to create a landing strip during
that were once used to bring in The Kaštel, a fortified lookout tower built World War II so that Allied
the local catch. On the north by the Venetians at Komiža planes could supply Tito’s
side of the bay is the 16th- partisans, although the site
century Church of Our Lady of be reached either by road or is now largely covered by
the Pirates (Gospa Gusarica), by hiking path from Komiža. vineyards. One part of the
so-called because, legend has Superb views can be enjoyed former landing strip is occupied
it, a band of pirates who had from the summit, and by Croatia’s only cricket pitch –
stolen its wooden image of the adventure-sports enthusiasts built by enthusiastic locals who
Madonna were swiftly killed in use it as a base for hang-gliding. emigrated to Australia and
a shipwreck, while the statue On the eastern side of the returned home with a love of
floated safely back to shore. summit is Tito’s Cave (Titova the sport. South of Plisko Polje,
It has an unusual triple-nave špilja) where the World War II tracks lead to the enchanting
layout. Just inland from the partisan leader Josip Broz Tito coves of Stiniva and Mala
town centre, the Benedictine based his HQ for several months Travna, both hugely popular
Monastery sits on a small hill, in mid-1944. It was here that with bathers despite being
fortified by defensive bastions Tito’s army planned the quite hard to reach – many
and flanked by vineyards. re-conquest of German- trippers come on excursion
Komiža’s best beaches lie south, occupied Dalmatia. The cave boats from Vis town or Komiža.
where there is a series of coves. is frequently open to visitors
over the summer, although Environs
E Fishing Museum you should check with Komiža The starkly beautiful island
Riva svetog Mikule. Open Jun–Sep: tourist office to make sure. of Biševo, to the southwest
11am–noon, 7–10pm Mon-Sat, of Vis, is sparsely inhabited
7–10pm Sun. Plisko Polje and cannot be reached
Plisko Polje is the main inland by regular ferry transport.
Mount Hum village on the south side of the It is a popular destination for
Looming above Komiža is island, where fertile fields yield boat excursions because of
Vis’s highest point, Mount Hum some of the Adriatic’s best its Blue Grotto (Modra špilja),
(587 m/1,925 ft), which can Plavac wine, a dry red. The fields a cave where the water takes
on beautiful colours. This
mesmerising effect is produced
by sunlight shining into the
cave through a slightly
submerged aperture. The
grotto can only be reached
by boat: day trips depart
from Komiža in the morning
(contact the tourist office
or any of the private tourist
agencies near Komiža harbour).
Many boat trips to the
grotto also allow visitors a
few free hours on the island
of Biševo itself. A monastery was
built here in around 1000 AD,
which resisted raids by pirates
and Saracens for 200 years.
The ruins remain, along with
A small boat from a Komiža hotel, taking visitors to Biševo island a 12th-century church.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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130  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

a Hvar

Art treasures, a mild climate, good beaches and fields of
scented lavender make this island one of the treasures of the
Adriatic. Limestone hills form the central ridge. Hvar’s story
begins in the 4th century BC when the Greeks from Paros
founded Pharos (the present-day Stari Grad) and Dimos (Hvar
town). Traces have been left by the Romans, the Byzantines, the
medieval Croatian kings and the Venetians, who ruled from
1278 until 1797. After 1420, defences were built, and the capital
was moved from Pharos to Hvar town. In 1886, under Austria-
Hungary, the Hvar Hygienic Society began to promote the Main square of Hvar, with the Cathedral
town as a health resort. Hvar was an important centre of of St Stephen
Croatian culture during the Renaissance, when local-born
poets Hanibal Lucić and Petar Hektorović both wrote lyrically which he vividly describes a
about the people and landscapes of the Adriatic. fishing trip around the islands
of Hvar, Brač and Šolta. He
began building the Tvrdalj in
1514, intending for it to be both
a palatial private house and a
fortified sanctuary into which
the local population could
retreat should there be an
attack by pirates. The Tvrdalj was
intended to be a self-sustaining
unit, with a garden, a dovecote
and a seawater fishpond were
included within its walls.
Hektorović placed philosophical
inscriptions in Latin on the walls
of the Tvrdalj, turning his home
Narrow street between traditional stone houses in Stari Grad into a unique monument to
Renaissance humanist thought.
Hvar Town a picturesque old quarter of low Nearby is Stari Grad
See pp132–3. stone houses and tiny streets. Museum, housed in the
The 17th-century parish Church Renaissance Biankini Palace.
Stari Grad of St Stephen (Sv. Stjepan), It contains a stunning collection
Founded by the Syracusans with its free-standing Venetian- of Greek amphorae, some
in the 4th century BC and style bell tower, is the principal beautifully restored period
originally called Pharos, Stari landmark. At the western end rooms, and a picture gallery
Grad (literally, the Old Town) of the old quarter is the Tvrdalj, devoted to local artists, includ-
is still Hvar’s main ferry port, the fortified residence of ing the gifted, Paris-trained Juraj
despite having lost its political Renaissance poet Petar Plančić (1899–1930). The Moira
and cultural importance to Hvar Hektorović . Hektorović is best Gallery at Vagonj 1 shows
town. Stari Grad lies at the end known as the author of Ribanje i contemporary art and contains
of a long bay and the main ribarsko prigovaranje (Fishing and fragments of Roman mosaic
sights are scattered throughout Fishermen’s Conversation) in in the floor.




Stari Grad Vrboska
SVETI KLEMENT Jelsa
Poljica
Hvar HVAR
PAKLENI ISLANDS
Zavala
ŠĆEDRO

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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D ALM A TIA  131


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map D–E5. * 11,500.
n Hvar town: Trg svetog
Stjepana 42, (021) 741 059. Stari
Grad: Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana
1, (021) 765 763. Sućuraj: (021)
717 288. ∑ tzhvar.hr
Transport
4 Split, Drvenik. Hvar town:
(021) 741 007; Jadrolinija: (021)
741 132. Stari Grad: (021) 765 060;
Part of the tranquil canal system, Vrboska Jadrolinija: (021) 765 048. Sućuraj:
(021) 773 228.
On the edge of the old E Tvrdalj
quarter is the Dominican Priko bb. Open May, Jun & Sep:
Monastery (Dominikanski 10am–1pm daily; July & Aug: Vrboska
samostan), founded by Brother 10am–1pm, 5pm–8pm daily. Vrboska is a pretty village
Germano of Piacenza in 1482 E Town Museum huddled around a succession of
and rebuilt and fortified after Ulaz braće Biankini 2. n (021) 766 stone bridges spanning a narrow
destruction by Uluz Ali, the 324. Open May, Jun & Sep: canal connected to the open
Ottoman corsair who raided 10am–1pm Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: sea. Dominating the village is
the Adriatic islands in 1571. The 10am–noon, 7–9pm Mon–Sat, the 16th-century Church of
most feared sea captain of his 7–9pm Sun; Oct–Apr: by appt. St Mary (Sv. Marija), fortified
time, Uluz Ali was driven away R Dominican Monastery with huge buttresses to provide
by the stubborn defenders of Trg sv. Petra bb. Tel (021) 765 442. shelter for villagers in times of
Korčula, and came to pillage Open Jun–Sep: 10am–noon, 6–8pm siege. The Baroque Church of
the less well-defended island daily; Oct–May: by appt. St Lawrence (Sv. Lovro) has a poly-
of Hvar instead. As well as a ptych on the main altar by Paolo
beautiful cloister, the monastery Jelsa Veronese (c.1570) and a Virgin
has a library rich in medieval A traditional Dalmatian stone- of the Rosary by Leandro da
incunabula, and a collection of built settlement around a small Bassano. A short walk north is
paintings including a Deposition harbour, Jelsa is a popular base the Glavica peninsula, with rocky
by Tintoretto. The monastery for family holidays, with several beaches and pebbly coves. The
church contains the grave of beaches on the outer fringes of seaside path from Vrboska to
Petar Hektorović. town. For much of its history Jelsa is perfect for a relaxed stroll.
Immediately east of Stari Jelsa was a prosperous port,
Grad, the Ager is a fertile plain exporting the wines produced Zavala
that still preserves the field in the villages just inland. Steps Zavala is the principal village of
plan established by the island’s from Jelsa’s café-filled main Hvar’s peaceful southern coast,
ancient Greek inhabitants. square ascend to the Gothic where quiet hamlets lie below
Archaeologists have revealed parish Church of St Mary (Sv. slopes covered with vineyards.
that the Greeks cultivated wine, Marija). Hidden in the narrow The road here from Jelsa runs
figs and olives, much as their alleys of the historic centre is through a famously low and
modern counterparts do today, Trg svetog Ivana, a Renaissance narrow single-lane tunnel. There
but also grew wheat. Added piazza grouped around a unique is a long stretch of pebbly beach
to the UNESCO World Heritage octagonal chapel. The palm- running along Zavala’s shoreline.
list in 2008, the Ager can be shaded park behind Jelsa’s Boat captains here offer trips to
explored on foot or by bike. harbour contains a statue of the islet of Šćedro just to the
There are splendid views from 19th-century sea captain Nika south, with even quieter beaches,
the 16th-century Španjola fort Duboković by the prominent pine trees and maquis vegetation.
and the Napoleon fort (1811). Dalmatian sculptor Ivan Rendić.
Sućuraj
Lying in a sheltered bay at the
eastern tip of the island, Sućuraj
Poljica is where the ferry from Drvenik
on the mainland arrives. Its pretty
Sućuraj harbour boasts the remains of a
Bogomolje fortress built by the Venetians in
1630. Nearby, Mlaska Bay and
Key
Perna Bay are two of Hvar’s best
0 kilometres 5 Major road beaches, with clear shallow
0 miles 5 Minor road water over fine sand.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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132  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Hvar Town deliberate attempt to lessen
social conflict between
Thanks to its wonderfully preserved Renaissance centre, aristocrats and plebeians. The
Hvar town is one of the most visited on the Dalmatian coast. plush interior has been well
It has long been popular with Croatian artists and celebrities, preserved and art exhibitions
lending it a chic ambience reflected in the growing number of are held in the foyer. There are
fine views of town from the
stylish restaurants, bars and hotels. Much frequented by luxury theatre’s balustraded terrace.
yachts and boats in summer, Hvar’s harbourside is one of the Diagonally opposite the
most glamorous in the Adriatic. Hvar town did not become Arsenal, the Renaissance clock
the main town on the island until the 15th century, when tower and loggia are all that
Venetian governors decided that the harbour was easier to remains of the Rector’s Palace,
where the administrator
defend than the one at Stari Grad, and ordered all the island’s appointed by the Venetian
noble families to move here. Hvar town became one of the Republic once held sway. The
most important ports for Venetian fleets going to and from rest of the palace was demolished
the Orient, bringing an upsurge in trade and wealth. Cultural in 1900 to make way for the
life and monastic orders also flourished. Hotel Elisabeth, since renamed
Hotel Palace (see p228).
P Hektorović Palace
Hektorovićeva palaĉa
North of the main square is
a very ancient quarter of the
town called Groda, consisting
of stone houses and narrow
alleys clinging to a sharply
rising hillside. The most
prominent landmark here is
the Hektorović Palace, an
unfinished building project
by the15th-century poet Petar
Hektorović (see pp130–31).
It is easily recognized by its
beautiful Venetian-Gothic
mullioned windows.
Cafés on the main square, with the cathedral in the background
R Benedictine Convent
R Cathedral of On the south side of the Benediktini samostan
St Stephen square, the Arsenal was built in Groda bb. Tel (021) 741 052.
Katedrala sv. Stjepana the late 16th century as a dry Open 10am–noon, 5–7pm
Trg svetog Stjepana. Tel (021) 743 dock for Venetian war galleys. Mon–Sat.
107. Cathedral Treasury: Open A theatre built on the first floor Just behind the Hektorović
summer: 9am–noon, 5–7pm daily; in 1612 is one of the oldest in Palace is a Benedictine convent
winter: by appt. Europe. The theatre was open founded in 1664 that houses a
Dominating Hvar’s harbourside to people of all classes in a secluded community of nuns
main square, Trg svetog who still make, display and sell
Stjepana, the Renaissance traditional Hvar lace, made by
cathedral has a trefoil pediment weaving fibres extracted from
and a 17th-century bell tower the spiky agave plants that can
standing to one side. The be seen all over the island.
interior houses many works of
art: a Virgin and Saints by Palma + Citadel
il Giovane (1544–1628), a Pietà Open Apr & May: 10am–4pm daily;
by Juan Boschetus, Virgin with Jun–Sep: 10am–10pm daily
Saints by Domenico Uberti and Paths ascend from the Groda
a fine 16th-century wooden district to the 16th-century
choir. The cathedral treasury Citadel on the hill above town,
boasts a rich collection of known locally as Španjola
reliquaries and silverware. because it was built by Spanish
architects who specialized in
P Arsenal fortification work. Superb views
Trg svetog Stjepana. Closed for Open to the sky, the Gothic windows of the of the surrounding coast are
restoration until late 2017. Hektorović Palace, never completed offered by the citadel’s ramparts.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and p240–45


132-133_EW_Croatia.indd 132 20/10/16 12:32 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.9)
Date 28th May 2014
Size 125mm x 217mm

D ALM A TIA  133


R Church of St Mark
Crkva svetog Marka
Visible all over town is the
belfry of the former Dominican
monastery’s Church of St Mark,
west of the main square. The
monastery was an important
centre of culture during the
Renaissance. It was here that
friar Vinko Pribojević gave a
famous speech on the Origins
of the Slavs in 1525, proposing
not only that the Slav peoples
of Europe were ethnically
related but also that they all
originally came from the Popular with locals, Mlini beach on the Pakleni Islands
Croatian Adriatic.
da Bassano, and six scenes walking and sailing destinations
R Franciscan Monastery inspired by the Passion of throughout the summer
Franjevaĉki samostan Christ by Martin Benetović. season. Their name derives from
Križa bb. Tel (021) 741 193. The grave of Renaissance the resin (paklina) that was at
Open May–Oct: 9am–noon daily; poet Hanibal Lucić can be seen one time extracted from the
Nov–Apr: 11am–noon daily. on the floor of the nave. There pines and used to waterproof
The monastery, dating from are also many works of art in the fishing boats.
1461, is located along the rooms facing the cloister. The During the summer boat
coastal path south of the Old Mannerist painting of the Last trips to the islands depart
Town. The monastery’s Church Supper in the refectory is of regularly from Hvar. Sveti
of Our Lady of Charity (Gospa uncertain attribution – possibly Klement is the largest of the
od Milosti), with a relief on the the work of Matteo Ingoli, islands and has most to offer
façade by Nikola Firentinac, also Matteo Ponzone or the school in terms of beaches, walking
contains two paintings by of Palma il Giovane. trails and restaurants.
Palma il Giovane (of St Francis Marinkovac also has good
Receiving the Stigmata and Environs beaches and a popular yachting
St Diego), three polyptychs The sparsely inhabited Pakleni marina. Be aware that the
by Francesco da Santacroce, a Islands, just off the coast from nearest island, Jerolim, is given
Christ on the Cross by Leandro Hvar town, are popular bathing, over to naturism.

Hvar
1 Cathedral of St Stephen Citadel
2 Arsenal
3 Hektorović Palace HIGIJENIČKOG DRUŠ T VA
4 Benedictine Convent
Church of
5 Citadel the Holy Spirit
MATIJE I VA NIĆA Bus ŠETALIŠTE ANTE HANČEVIĆA
6 Church of St Mark MAT IJ E IV A N I ĆA Benedictine Station
Convent
7 Franciscan Monastery Hektorović
Church of Palace
TRG M.
St Mark Groda MILIČIĆA
TRG SV.
STJEPANA Cathedral
Arsenal of St Stephen
FA B R I K A BRAĆE BOŽITKOVIĆ BUTOROVIĆ VICKA
NOVAK JURJA
BURAK
Luka Hvar K R O Z BUZOLIĆ ŠIME TOME BUZOLIĆ IVE
R I VA BU RAK Š I M E
Catamaran
Dock
KOVAČEVIĆ DINKA B U ZO L I Ć T OM E
ŠE T A L IŠTE P U T KRIŽA
0 metres 300 KROZ BURAK
0 yards 300 Franciscan
Monastery
Pakleni
Islands
For keys to symbols see back flap
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134  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


churches in Dalmatia. It has
a single nave, a dome, and
remains from the early Christian
period incorporated into
the walls.
Environs
The Cetina Valley Nature
Park, immediately behind
Omiš, shelters a river which
flows into the artificial lake of
Peruča. The river runs out of the
lake and parallel to the coast
for some distance and then,
near Zadvarje, abruptly turns
and cascades down before
flowing into a narrow gorge.
Boating on the river in the Cetina Valley Nature Park This beautiful natural
environment, with its myriad
s Omiš One is the Renaissance Church bird species, can be explored
of St Michael (Sv. Mihovil) with on foot or by bicycle, but the
Map D5. * 6,000. @ (021) 864 210.
4 (021) 861 025. n Trg kneza a pointed bell tower, originally most popular way to see it is
Miroslava bb, (021) 861 350. a defensive structure. Inside is a to take one of the many boats
_ Festival klapa (Jul). ∑ visitomis.hr 16th-century wooden altar, a through the park.
large 13th-century wooden
In the late Middle Ages Omiš cross and two paintings by
was known as the residence of Matteo Ingoli of Ravenna d Makarska
the terrifying corsairs who (1587–1631). At the end of Map E5. * 14,000. @ Ulica Ante
fought fiercely against the main road is the 16th- Star čevića 30, (021) 612 333. 4 Obala
Venetian rule from the century Oratory of kralja Tomislava 1a, (021) 611 977.
12th century until the Holy Spirit (Sv. n Obala kralja Tomislava 16, (021)
1444, when the town Duh) with Descent 612 002. ∑ makarska-info.hr
fell to Venice. Today it of the Holy Spirit by
is a peaceful holiday Palma il Giovane The Makarska coast extends
resort with some (1544–1628). from Brela to Gradac and
light industry along However, the includes a long stretch of shore
the coast, and the most fascinating with lush vegetation sheltered
starting point for Church of St Peter in Priko, monument here by the Biokovo massif.
visits to the valley a district of Omiš is in Priko, on the Makarska, one of Dalmatia’s
of the River Cetina. oppo site bank most popular mainland resorts,
In July, the Dalmatinksa Klapa of the River Cetina. This is the lies within a bay sheltered by
festival attracts many visitors 10th-century Church of St Peter the peninsula of St Peter’s.
who come to hear Klapa, a (Sv. Petar), one of the most The town was the site of the
kind of plainsong traditional to appealing pre-Romanesque Roman Mucurum, which was
Dalmatia. It is still very popular,
even among the young.
Only a few traces of the
Roman municipium of
Onaeum remain but many
of the medieval defences built
by the counts of Kačić and Bribir
are still visible on a hill, once
the site of the Old Town, or Stari
grad. These consist of the walls
going down to the River Cetina
and also the ruins of a large
fort (Fortica) with its distinctive
high tower. From the fort, built
between the 16th and the 17th
centuries, there is a splendid
view of Omiš and the central
Dalmatian islands.
There are three interesting
religious buildings in the town. The Makarska coast, with white beaches and a mountainous backdrop
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


134-135_EW_Croatia.indd 134 20/10/16 12:28 pm

D ALM A TIA  135


destroyed by the Goths in 548,
and rebuilt at a later date. It
belonged to the Kingdom of
Croatia until 1499, when it
was conquered by the Turks,
for whom it was a port and
trading centre until 1646, the
beginning of Venetian rule.
There are two ancient
monasteries in Makarska. St
Philip Neri (Sv. Filipa Nerija) was
built in 1757, and has medieval
and Roman-era fragments in
the cloister. The Franciscan
monastery (Franjevački
Samostan), built in 1614 on the
foundations of a 15th-century The beach at Gradac, one of the longest in the eastern Adriatic
monastery, houses the
Malacological Museum (4 miles) long, the beach is lined folklore collection, an art gallery,
(Malakološki muzej), with a with hotels and campsites. and a library and archive where
collection of mollusc shells. In the town itself there are documents about the period
The centre of the modern two large 17th-century towers of Turkish occupation are kept.
town is the square called while nearby, in Crkvine, the The Dalmatian scholar Andrija
Brother Andrija Kačić Miošić, remains of a Roman staging Kačić Miošić (1704–60) lived
dedicated to the 18th-century post between Mucurum (the and died in the monastery.
Dalmatian scholar and author present-day Makarska) and Around 20 km (12 miles) from
of theological and philosophical Narona (see p136) have been Gradac, towards Makarska, is
works. Two seafront promenades found. Gradac gets its name Živogošće, one of the oldest
extend towards the wide from the fort (grad) built in the settlements on the Makarska
beaches and Kalelarga, where 17th century to defend against coast. Today it is a busy tourist
there are 18th-century buildings. the Turks. resort, but it was once famous
for a spring which flowed from
E Malacological Museum Environs the rocks.
Franjevački put 1. Tel (021) 611 256. west of Gradac, is a Franciscan A Franciscan monastery
monastery (Franjevački was founded near this spring in
samostan) founded in the 1616, and its beautiful church
f Gradac 16th century and completed boasts an ornate Baroque altar.
a century later. The façade of the The mon astery is famous for
Map E5. * 1,200.
n (021) 697 375 (high season only). church has an inscription its well-stocked library and
∑ gradac.hr written in Cyrillic script. In the archives, which are the main
rooms around the beautiful source for the study of the area
This town’s fame and popularity cloister there is a fascinating around the Biokovo massif.
are due to the fact that it has
one of the longest beaches in
the eastern Adriatic. Over 6 km The Vineyards
of Dalmatia
Vines are grown all
along the coast of
Dalmatia, and on
many of the islands.
Vineyards first start
appearing around
Primošten, near Trogir
(see p113), where the Vines protected by dry-stone walls
good quality red wine Babić is made, and become part of the
landscape along the Makarska coast. Built on stony hillsides,
these vineyards are often “fortified” with low dry-stone walls,
painstakingly constructed with geometrical precision by peasant
farmers. Low-growing vines cultivated inside the walls are protected
from the cold north winds and kept cool in the hot summer months.
A monument to human toil, the result of immense patience and
effort, without these walls it would notbe possible to cultivate this
The Franciscan monastery, Makarska, difficult ground.
now a museum




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136  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


























Delta of the River Neretva in Opuzen, drained and turned into fertile fields
g Opuzen h Narona village stands on much of the site
of ancient Narona, 3 km (2 miles)
Map E6. * 3,250. @ Metković, Map E6. @ Metković, (060) 365 365.
(060) 365 365. n Trg kralja n (020) 691 596. ∑ a-m-narona.hr from Metković. In the museum
Tomislava 1, (020) 671 139. are statues of Roman emperors
∑ opuzen.hr The ancient Roman town of and their families, as well as
Colonia Julia Narona was pottery, glassware, weapons,
At the edges of the delta of founded by the Romans in the jewels and stone monuments
the River Neretva, where the 1st century BC. It was an impor- that were found in Narona. A part
road leaves the Magistrala tant road junction and a trading of the collection is also on display
coast road (E65) and climbs centre with the Adriatic hinter- at the Archaeological Museum
the river valley, stands Opuzen. land and the region of today’s Split (see p125).
For centuries it was fortified Bosnia-Herzegovina, and had The 16th-century Church
and has always been temples, baths, a theatre and of St Vitus (Sv. Vid) stands just
considered something other buildings grouped around outside the town on the site of
of a border town. the Forum. A walled town, it was a 5th-century church, of which
Towards the end of one of the first dioceses in the only parts of the apse remain.
the 15th century, the Balkans and flourished
Hungarian-Croat king, until the 7th century
Matthias Corvinus, built when it was occupied j Neum
the fort of Koš here. It and destroyed by the Bosnia-Herzegovina. Map E6.
was captured by the Avars and the Slavs. * 2,500. @ Metković, (060) 365 365.
Turks in 1490 who ruled At the end of the 19th ∑ neum.ba
until 1686, when it century, after a few chance
came under Venetian discoveries, the Austrian All the buses running along the
rule. There are also archaeologist Karl Patsch coastal road between Split and
traces of a 13th- began to carry out Dubrovnik pass through the 9-km
century castle built Head of Emperor Vespasian, excavations. Work (5-mile) stretch of coast that is
by the Republic of now in Vid’s Museum continued after part of Bosnia-Herzegovina. The
Dubrovnik and the World War II and main town in this area is Neum,
remains of a fort (Fort Opus), uncovered objects from pagan which is a holiday resort and
built by the Venetians to and Christian temples, houses Bosnia’s only coastal town. Prices
defend the border of their and public works. In 1995, a are cheaper here than in Croatia,
territories. The town takes its particularly fine temple was and as a result it is a popular
name from this fort and the discovered. Large parts of the place for Croatians to stop off
ruins can be seen on the area have still to be explored, and go shopping.
eastern side of town. but it is possible to get an idea Neum is a border town, and
On the main square are some of the importance of the town visitors should carry passports.
fragments discovered in the by visiting the Archaeological There are several hotels and
ancient town of Narona. Museum Narona in Vid. This tourist facilities.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–33 and pp240–45


136-137_EW_Croatia.indd 136 20/10/16 12:32 pm

D ALM A TIA  137


k Pelješac slope until they reach Mali
Peninsula Ston. The 41 towers, seven
bastions and two forts make
Map E6. @ Metković, (060) 365 365. this one of the largest and most
Ston: * 580. 4 (020) 754 026. interesting defensive structures
n Pelješka cesta 2, (020) 754 452. in the Adriatic and indeed
∑ ston.hr Orebić: * 2,500. the world. Some of the best
4 (020) 743 542 (Trpanj). n Zrinsko
Frankopanska 2, (020) 713 718. military architects, such as
∑ visitorebic-croatia.hr Michelozzo Michelozzi, Župan
Bunić, Bernardino of Parma,
The peninsula of Pelješac juts Juraj Dalmatinac and Paskoje
out 65 km (40 miles) from the Miličević, contributed to its
mainland, but it is only 7 km design and construction.
(4 miles) wide at its broadest The walls have been under
point. A mountain chain forms renovation since 2001. The
its backbone, which peaks at work on a section from Ston Franciscan monastery between Orebić
Mount St Elijah (961 m/3,152 ft). to Mali Ston has been finished and Lovište
The slopes and plain are and it takes about 45 minutes
covered with vineyards and to walk the route. Orebić
fruit trees, and the shallow The main structures are at Towards the tip of the peninsula,
coastal waters are given over Veliki Ston, which is built on Orebić is the boarding point
to oyster farming. an irregular pentagonal ground for ferries to Korčula. It has a
The peninsula was first plan. The buildings include the Maritime Museum (Pomorski
colonized by the Greeks, then largest fort (Veliki Kaštio); the muzej), which illustrates the
by the Romans and later by the Neo-Gothic Church of St Blaise history of its inhabitants, who
Byzantines. From 1333 to 1808 (Sv. Vlaho), built in 1870 to were the most sought-after sea
it belonged to Dubrovnik. replace a cathedral from the captains in the Mediterranean.
14th century which was At the end of their careers these
destroyed by the earthquake seamen invested in villas along
of 1850; the Governor’s Palace the coast or in the hills.
(Knežev dvor), enlarged in the Just outside the village,
same century, and the Bishop’s towards Lovište, is a massive
Palace (1573). The Church and Franciscan Monastery
Franciscan Monastery of St (Franjevački samostan), founded
Nicholas (Sv. Nikola) was built in the 15th century. In the
between the end of the 14th church alongside are two reliefs:
century and the 16th century. one is a Virgin with Child by
Mali Ston, the other focus of Nikola Firentinac (1501), who
the town, is dominated by Fort was a pupil of Donatello.
Koruna, which dates from 1347,
with two arsenals and a fortified E Maritime Museum
The Pelješac coast, a centre for warehouse for storing salt. There Trg Mimbelli bb. Tel (020) 713 009.
oyster farming are wonderful views across Open Jun–Sep: 7am–10pm Mon–
the peninsula to the north of Fri, 6–10pm Sat & Sun; Oct–May:
Ston the town from here. 7am–3pm Mon–Fri. &
The town closest to the
mainland, Ston was formerly
called Stagnum because of its
shallow waters. There have been
salt pans here since the time of
the Romans, who built a castrum
on the site. It was enclosed by
walls prior to 1000 AD.
The present defensive
walls, still impressive above
the town, were begun in the
14th century and completed
in the 15th century on orders
from Dubrovnik. There are
more than 5 km (3 miles) of
walls climbing from Veliki Ston,
the main heart of the town,
to St Michael’s Mount and
descending the opposite Overlooking the circle of walls connecting the two parts of Ston




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138  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

l Korčula VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

Dense forests of Aleppo pine, cypress and oak are found all Practical Information
over this island, one of the largest in the Adriatic at 47 km Map E6. * 17,000. n Obala dr.
(29 miles) long. Mountains run the length of the island, Tuđmana 4, Korčula, (020) 715
701. _ Moreška, Jun & Sep: 9pm
reaching 560 m (1,837 ft) at their peak. Inhabited since Thu; Jul & Aug: 9pm Mon & Thu.
prehistoric times, the Greeks named the island Korkyra Lumbarda: n (020) 712 005.
Melaina (Black Corfu). After 1000 AD, it was fought over by Blato: n Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 4,
Venice and the Croat kings and later by the Genoese and the (020) 851 850. _ St Vincenca’s
Day (28 Apr). n Vela Luka: Obala
Turks (in the 1298 naval battle between Genoa and Venice, 3 br 19, (020) 813 619. ∑ visit
the Genoese captured Marco Polo, said to be a native of the korcula.eu ∑ tzvelaluka.hr
island). Today it is a popular holiday spot for its cliffs and Transport
sandy beaches, its villages and Korčula, its main town. 4 from Orebić, Split and Rijeka.
Korčula: @ (020) 711 216.
4 Vela Luka: (020) 715 410.
4 (020) 812 023.
main road are designed to lessen
the impact of the bora wind.
Facing Trg sv. Marka, the paintings include St Mark with
central square, is the town’s St Jerome and St Bartholomew
main monument: the 14th- by Tintoretto. On a wall are
century Cathedral of St Mark trophies recalling the Battle
(Katedrala Sv. Marka), built in of Lepanto of 1571.
pale, honey-coloured stone. Next to the cathedral, in the
Most of it dates from the end Bishop’s Palace, now the Abbot’s
of the 15th century. The skill of House, is the Abbey Treasury
Korčula’s sculptors and stone (Opatska riznica), which is
masons is evident in the door, particularly known for its
where two lions guard the Dalmatian and Venetian art,
entrance, decorated with thin including a polyptych by Blaž
spiral columns and a lunette
with the figure of St Mark,
Land Gate, main entrance to the Old Town attributed to Bonino of Milan.
of Korčula Two further doors open onto
side aisles. On the left stands an
Korčula Town imposing, 30-m (100-ft) bell
The town sits atop a peninsula, tower, which visitors may climb.
surrounded by strong 13th- Inside are large columns with
century walls, reinforced with elaborately decorated capitals
towers and bastions by the and several important sculptural
Venetians after 1420. The whole works: a 15th-century holy
town is enchanting. The Land water stoup, a font from the
Gate (Kopnena vrata) was 17th century, and the tomb
fortified by a huge tower, the of Bishop Toma Malumbra,
Revelin, which overlooked a attributed to the workshop of
canal dug by the Venetians to Marko Andrijić, who also made
isolate the town. There are the ciborium in the presbytery
now steps in this area. Narrow in 1481. There is also a statue of Impressive entrance to the Gothic Cathedral
streets branching off the St Blaise by Ivan Meštrović. The of St Mark, Korčula


PROIZD
Prigradica KORČULA
Vela Luka

Blato Čara
Potirna
Zavalatica
Key Prižba Brna
Major road
Minor road
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


138-139_EW_Croatia.indd 138 20/10/16 12:32 pm

K ORČULA  139





















Korčula, the main town on the island, on an isthmus on the northeast coast
of Trogir, two altar paintings by Donner, and a 15th-century
Pellegrino of San Daniele, a polyptych by Blaž of Trogir. Ancient Dances
Sacred Conversation by Titian, In the nearby quarters of and Festivals
a Portrait of a Man by Vittore the confraternity is the Icon The Moreška and the
Carpaccio and an Annunciation Collection (Kolekcija Ikona), Kumpanija are Korčula’s two
by Titian. A door by Bonino of which is famous for its rich most noted folk festivals.
Milan decorates the Gothic collection of Byzantine icons Officially, the Moreška sword
Church of St Peter (Sv. Petar) to from the 13th to 15th dance takes place in Korčula on
the left of the cathedral. Facing centuries, many from Crete. 29 July, the patron saint’s day
St Peter are the Gothic Arneri Outside the walls are the (St Theodore). However, it is
Palace and the Renaissance Church and Monastery of repeated on Mondays and
Gabriellis Palace (16th century). St Nicholas (Sv. Nikola), from Thursdays during the summer
The latter has been the Town the 15th century, with many for tourists. It commemorates
Museum (Gradski muzej) since paintings by Dalmatian and the clash between Christians
1957 and contains documents Italian artists. and Moors in the attempt to
on Korčula’s seafaring history, free a girl kidnapped by the
infidels. In Blato, the Kumpanjija
an interesting archaeological E Abbey Treasury dance is dedicated to the
section covering the period Trg sv. Marka. n (020) 711 049. patron saint, St Vincenca, and
from prehistoric to Roman Open call for information. & is celebrated with drum music.
times and other works of art. E Town Museum At the end of the battle, girls
Along the seafront is Trg sv. Marka. Tel (020) 711 420. in bright costumes appear,
All Saints’ Church (Svi Sveti), Open Apr–Jun: 10am–2pm Mon–Sat; accompanied by pipes and
built in 1301 and remodelled Jul–Sep: 9am–9pm Mon–Sat; Oct– drums. The dance takes place in
in the Baroque style, which Mar: 10am–1pm; by appt Sun. front of the church on 28 April
belongs to the oldest E Icon Collection and is performed once a week
confraternity on the island. Trg Svih Svetih. n (020) 711 306 for tourists who visit Blato.
Inside is an 18th-century or (091) 883 3879. Open summer:
carved wooden Pietà, by the 10am–2pm, 5–8pm Mon–Sat; Sun
Austrian artist George Raphael & winter: by appt.

Račišće
Korčula
KORČULA Pupnat
Žrnovo Lumbarda
Pupnatska Luka
Čara
Zavalatica
Brna
0 kilometres 5 Two Moreškants performing the
ancient Moreška sword dance
0 miles 5
For keys to symbols see back flap


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140  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


and, in the chapel, the relics
of the martyr St Vincenca, the
object of veneration in the local
community. The cemetery
church of the Holy Cross and
that of St Jerome date from the
14th century.
Vela Luka
Situated about 45 km (28 miles)
west of Korčula is Vela Luka,
called “the oldest and the
newest town”, because it was
built at the beginning of the
The serene coastline of Lumbarda 19th century on the Neolithic
site of Vela Spilja. It is one of the
Lumbarda Arneri Castle, where the Civic largest towns on the island and
Lumbarda is a village 6 km Museum documenting local industries coexist with attractive
(4 miles) southeast of the town history is being set up, and bays and numerous islands.
of Korčula and is thought to All Saints’ Church (Svi Sveti), The hills surrounding the
have been founded by Greeks of medieval origin. This church town shelter this area from the
from Vis. It was called Eraclea by was enlarged and rebuilt in winds from the north and south.
the Romans. In the 16th century the 17th century and has an Vela Luka is also the main port
it became a holiday resort for altarpiece of the Virgin with Child on the island and there are
the nobles of Korčula. Some and Saints on the main altar by regular ferry services to Split
inscriptions from the Greek Girolamo di Santacroce (1540) and Lastovo.
period are now in the
Archaeological Museum
of Zagreb (see pp168–9).
Today this village is one of the
centres of production for the
liqueur-like white wine called
Grk, which is made from grapes
of the same name grown in the
sand. The nearby small beaches
are havens of tranquillity.
Blato
In the central square of Blato, a
town where the festival of the
Kumpanija (see p139) is held
every April, are an 18th-century
Baroque loggia, the Renaissance Lumbarda on the island of Korčula, one of the greenest in the Adriatic

The Stone of Dalmatia
The excellent quality of the stone in the Dalmatian
islands was known to the Romans, who used it to build
the monuments of Salona and Diocletian’s Palace in
Split. On Brač, the old Roman quarries are still visible
in Pučišća. Brač stone was used for the cathedral in Šibenik
(see pp110–11), for which Juraj Dalmatinac devised a method
of cutting the stone so that blocks interlocked without
mortar. Most of the palaces and churches in Venice are also
made of Dalmatian stone. Further afield, part of the White
House in Washington and the Royal Palace in Stockholm
were faced with stone from Brač. In Korčula, quarrying
ceased long ago, and stone cutting skills have largely
died out. However, the quarries on the small island of
Vrnik, facing Korčula, are still active and stone from here
was used in the church of St Sophia in Istanbul, the
Duke’s Palace in Dubrovnik and the United Nations
Ancient Roman quarries, Brač building in New York.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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D ALM A TIA  141


a military area and thus closed
to tourists. The island is 9 km
(5 miles) long and about 6 km
(4 miles) wide. Although it is
mostly mountainous terrain
(Mount Hum reaches a height
of 417 m/1,368 ft), vines, olives
and fruit are cultivated on the
terraced slopes. The coast is
rocky apart from the bay close
to the town of Lastovo.
Traces of the long period of
rule by Dubrovnik (1252–1808)
are visible in the upper part
Franciscan church and monastery on the island of Badija of the town and in the fort,
built by the French in 1819
z Badija cloister is a good example on the site of an earlier castle
of Gothic architecture at its destroyed by Dubrovnik in 1606.
Map E6. 4 taxi-boats from Korčula.
∑ badija.com most charming, with columns A church from the 14th
and arches. century and a 16th-century
This is the largest of the loggia stand in the main
small islands, 1 sq km square. Religious festivals
(0.4 sq m), in the archipelago are celebrated here.
surrounding the island of Mention of the small Church
Korčula, and is covered with of St Blaise (Sv. Vlaho), situated
pines and cypress trees. It takes at the entrance to the village,
its name from the Franciscan is found in 12th-century
monastery built here in 1392 documents. Also of ancient
for a community of monks origins, in the cemetery, is the
who had fled from Bosnia. The Romanesque Oratory of Our
monastery and church were The Loggia in the main square in Lastovo, Lady in the Field (Gospa od
enlarged in the following a venue for festivals Polja) from the 15th century.
century and remained the Remnants of buildings and rustic
property of the religious x Lastovo villas testify to the presence of
community until 1950, when Map E6. * 800. 4 from Vela Luka the Romans on the island. The
it became a sports resort. (island of Korčula), Dubrovnik during lack of tourism has helped to
The church, whose summer and from Split. Harbour preserve the old buildings.
furnishings have been Master: (020) 805 006. n Pjevor bb, Religious holidays are very
transferred to the Civic (020) 801 018. ∑ lastovo.hr popular and celebrated with
Museum and the cathedral in traditional dances with antique
Korčula, has a façade in pale- The island of Lastovo, musical instruments. The locals
coloured stone and a large surrounded by about 40 small wear brightly coloured
central rose window. The islands and rocky outcrops, was traditional costumes.





















Cluster of houses in the town of Lastovo




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142  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

c Mljet National Park
Nacionalni park Mljet

The island of Mljet, called Melita by the Romans and
Meleda by the Venetians, covers an area of 98 sq km
(37 sq miles). It is mountainous, with two limestone
depressions in which there are two salt water lakes linked
by a channel. In Roman times Mljet was the holiday resort
of the wealthy of Salona, who built villas here. Some ruins
can still be seen. In 1151, Duke Desa gave the island to the
Benedictines of Pulsano in Gargano (Italy), who founded
a monastery here. Two centuries later Stjepan, the Ban
(governor) of Bosnia, gave it to Dubrovnik, to which it
belonged until 1815. In 1960 the western part was Roman Palatium
In Polače lie the ruins of a Roman
declared a national park to save the forest of Aleppo settlement named Palatium, including
pine and holm oak. the remains of a large villa and an
early Christian basilica and thermae.



Pomena
•
Goveđari Polače Kozarica
Mijet
National
Soline Park
Blato












Monastery of St Mary
In the centre of Big Lake (Veliko Jezero) is a
small island with a 12th-century Benedictine
monastery, remodelled in the 1500s. Although
currently being restored, it can still be visited.


Big Lake (Veliko jezero)
The lake covers an area of 1.45 sq km (320 acres) and
reaches a depth of 46 m (150 ft). A channel links the lake
to the sea, and another channel links it to a smaller lake,
Malo jezero.



National Park
The area of 31 sq km (12 sq miles)
is almost entirely forested.
The park is home to wild boar, 0 kilometres 3
deer, hares, lizards and many
bird species. 0 miles 3
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


142-143_EW_Croatia.indd 142 20/10/16 12:32 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.9)
Date 28th May 2014
Size 125mm x 217mm

D ALM A TIA  143


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map E6. * 1,300.
Goveđari: n Polače, Tourist
office: (020) 744 186. National
Park: (020) 744 041. & 8
∑ mljet.hr ∑ np-mljet.hr
Transport
4 from Dubrovnik.
The park can be visited on foot
or by bicycle following the trails.
Marine Life Boats must be authorized – call
Dozens of species of fish, including grouper, inhabit the information office for details.
underwater ravines and caves along the coast. The most
valued creature is the endangered monk seal, protected
in these waters.
Saplunara
Saplunara lies at the
The village of Babino Polje southernmost point of
was founded in around the the island and boasts the
middle of the 10th century by most beautiful beach in
a group of refugees from the the area. It has been
mainland. The governor’s declared a nature reserve
residence was built in 1554 for its lush vegetation.
when the island became part
of the territory of the Republic
of Ragusa (now Dubrovnik).




Sobra Prožura
• Okuklje
MLJET Korita
Maranovići



Saplunara





Uninhabited Islands
Nature is left undisturbed on these islands, with
woods of pine, holm oak and oak going right
down to the rocky shore.



Key
Fishing Villages
Minor road The island’s ancient stone
Path villages are inhabited mainly by
Park border farmers and fishermen. These
villages and the delightful bays
and coves around the island
are lovely places in which
to spend time.
For keys to symbols see back flap Zlatni rat beach on the island of Brač


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146  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

v Street-by-Street: Dubrovnik

Set in the limpid waters of the Adriatic, Dubrovnik
had been, until war broke out in 1991, one of the top
international tourist destinations of Dalmatia, renowned
for the beauty of its monuments, its magnificent walls
and welcoming atmosphere. According to Emperor
Constantine Porphyrogenitus it was founded by fugitives
from Roman Epidaurum (now Cavtat) in the 7th century.
It came under Byzantine and Venetian (1205–1358) rule,
and attained formal independence after 1382, when it
became the Republic of Ragusa. In the 15th and 16th . Rector’s Palace
centuries its fleet numbered over 500 ships. Artistically The highest level of city
it flourished and its wealth was greatly influenced by the government met here. The
discovery of America and new trade routes. Much of rector lived here during his
the Old Town centre dates from the rebuilding that period of office, which was
limited to one month.
took place after the earthquake of 1667.


. Cathedral Treasury
The provenance of the objects
here clearly demonstrates how LU Ć A R I C A GUNDULIĆEVA
the Dubrovnik merchants POLJANA
developed trading relations
with the principal cities of
the Mediterranean. The
Treasury has works from the Byzantine,
Middle Eastern, Apulian and Venetian
schools. There are gold and enamel P R E D . D V O R O M
objects and also paintings by
great artists.



POL JANA
M ARINA
Key DR ž I Ć A
Suggested route K N E Z A D A



M
J A
N
A

J U D E








View of Dubrovnik Church of St Blaise
Lovely views of Dubrovnik can be seen from the coast This 16th-century church was rebuilt
about 2 km (1 mile) to the south, where there is an in the following century. At the
elevated terrace. From here you can look over the beginning of the 18th century, it was
entire city and its walls. redesigned by Marino Groppelli.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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DUBROVNIK  147

Sponza Palace
Originating in the 16th VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
century, today the palace
houses the State Archives. On Practical Information
the lintel is a Latin inscription: Map F6. * 43,000. n Local:
“Falsifying and cheating with Brsalje 5 (020) 312 011; Regional:
the weights is forbidden. While Šipčine 2 (020) 324 999. _
I am weighing the goods, God Dubrovnik Summer Festival (Jul–
is measuring me”. Aug). Local: ∑ tzdubrovnik.hr
Regional: ∑ visitdubrovnik.hr
Transport
k Čilipi, (020) 773 377.
@ Obala pape Ivana Pavla 11,
44A, (060) 305 070. 4 Harbour
Master: (020) 418 988; Jadrolini
Franciscan Monastery ja: (020) 418 000.
and the Big Fountain
of Onofrio
The outer
city walls
P
R
I J K
P
E
L
A
O
C
A
Z L A T A R S K A
P R E D . D V O R O M S V E T O G D O M I N I K A . Dominican Monastery
Since its foundation in
1315, the monastery
has played a leading
role in cultural
activities in the
city. Important
sculptors and
architects played
a part in its
construction.



Ploče Gate
Next to the Dominican monastery is the
Ploče Gate, which leads to the port.
Goods arrived from, and were sent to,
every port in the Mediterranean.












Fort of St John 0 metres 50
To make the city impregnable, the governors employed the most 50
important European architects of the time. This fortress was one 0 yards
of many bulwarks.




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148  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


Exploring Dubrovnik
From the autumn of 1991 until May 1992, Dubrovnik
was the target of relentless, heavy bombing by Yugoslav
troops. During this period over 2,000 bombs and guided
missiles fell on Dubrovnik, damaging some of the most
significant symbols of Dalmatian culture. Over half the
houses and all the monuments were shelled. The war
also hit the city’s economic activity, especially tourism,
which suffered a dramatic decline for four years.
Only after the Erdut Agreement of 1995 did life begin to
return to normal. UNESCO and the European Union set
up a special commission for the reconstruction of the The solid Minčeta Tower, part of the
wall defences
city, and in a remarkably short space of time much of
the damage has been repaired. Dubrovnik has now from 1537. The bridge crosses
regained much of its former splendour and tourism is a moat which is now a garden.
once again flourishing. The gate is a strong defensive
structure built on different
levels. In a niche above the
ogival arch stands a small statue
of St Blaise, the patron saint of
Dubrovnik, by Ivan Meštrović. In
the ramparts between the inner
and outer walls is a Gothic door
dating from 1460.
P Minčeta Tower
Tvrđava Minčeta
This is the most visited of the
walls’ defensive structures. It
was designed by Michelozzo
Michelozzi in 1461 and
Splendid view from the impressive city walls completed by Juraj Dalmatinac
three years later. The semicircular
P Walls the Adriatic and the port. tower is crowned by a second
Gradske zidine Completing the defences to the tower with embrasures at the top.
n (020) 324 641. Open Jun & Jul: east and west of the city are two
8am–7:30pm; Apr, May, Aug & Sep: fortresses: the Revelin and P Ploče Gate
8am–6:30pm; Oct: 8am–4pm; Nov– the fortress of Lovrijenac. Vrata od Ploča
Mar: 9am–3pm. Access to the walls The gate faces a small port and
near the Franciscan monastery in P Pile Gate is preceded by the polygonal
Poljana Paška Miličevića, the large Gradska vrata Pile Asimov Tower. Dating from the
square behind Pile Gate near the This is the main entrance to the 1300s, the gate is reached by an
Dominican monastery. &
old fortified centre. The stone imposing stone bridge. A moat
A symbol of Dubrovnik, the walls bridge leading to Pile Gate is separates the gate and Revelin
offer splendid views from the Fort (Tvrđava Revelin),
guards’ walkway. They were designed in 1538 by
built in the 10th century, with Antonio Ferramolino. It
modifications in the 13th century. was the last of the def­
They were then reinforced at ences to be built. The
various times by great architects city’s art treasures were
such as Michelozzo Michelozzi brought here for safety
and Antonio Ferramolino. in times of difficulty
The walls and ramparts are because of the fort’s
1,940 m (6,363 ft) long and reach strength. The Lazareti
a height of 25 m (82 ft) in some served as a quarantine
parts. Those facing inland are from the late 14th
up to 6 m (20 ft) wide and cen tury, separating
strengthened by an outer wall goods from ailing
with ten semi circular bastions. travellers. Today they are
Other towers and the Fort of occupied by shops and
St John defend the part facing Pile Gate, leading to the Old Town entertainment facilities.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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