(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

CRO A TIA A T A GLANCE  49

Zagorje, west of
Varaždin, towards the
border with Slovenia, is
a fascinating area with
vine-covered hills,
thermal spa towns
and castles.



Varaždin
0 kilometres 50
THE NORTHERN 0 miles 50 Kopački Rit Park
COUNTIES (pp198–9) is an oasis of great
(see pp202–19) ornithological interest. In
spring and summer the
Danube overflows,
Zagreb Virovitica transforming this area into a
ZAGREB large lake attracting more
(see pp154–71) CENTRAL than 200 bird species.
CROATIA
(see pp172–83) SLAVONIA AND Osijek
Karlovac BARANJA
Sisak
(see pp184–201)
Rijeka
Đakovo
Poreč Ogulin Slavonski Brod
ISTRIA AND THE
KVARNER AREA Lonjsko Polje Nature Park
Barban (see pp50–89) (p180)
Senj
Pula
Jablanac
Lički Osik


Otrič The Tvrđa in Osijek (pp196–7), the fortified
Posedarje The Palace of Diocletian in Split (pp122–3) nucleus of the city, has 18th-century military
was built by Emperor Diocletian at the buildings. Initially Roman, then Hungarian,
Zadar end of the 3rd century. The city of Split Turkish and lastly Austrian, the city retains
DALMATIA grew up in and around it. Almost in its traces of most of these diverse cultures.
(see pp90–153) original state, it is the largest Roman
building in the Adriatic.
Šibenik
Sinj The city of Dubrovnik
(pp146–52) is situated on
the coast. It is surrounded by
fortifications begun in the
Split 8th century and enlarged
over the years.
Makarska


Ploče



Dubrovnik







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CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA  51

ISTRIA AND THE

KVARNER AREA



The Istrian peninsula, nestling at the northern end of the Adriatic Sea, and the
islands that tumble down the Kvarner gulf are some of the most sought-after
holiday destinations in Europe. The coast is spectacular and the towns and
cities are fascinating. Three National Parks – the Brijuni Islands, the Plitvice
Lakes and Risnjak – preserve the natural charm of the area.
Until 1000 BC, the region was inhabited by With the Treaty of Vienna in 1815,
Illyrians. From 42 BC Istria became part of Austria-Hungary extended its domain
the Roman empire, when the Province of to include Venetian lands. Rijeka
Dalmatia was founded. Cities were built developed into an industrial port under
along the coast and on the islands, and Austro-Hungarian rule and is still today
many traces of Roman presence remain. a hub for Croatian shipping. Close by
Pula has a well-preserved amphitheatre in Opatija the Habsburgs built elegant
dating back to the 1st century, the sixth- villas and planted lush gardens for
largest arena of its kind in the world. their winter holidays.
With the fall of the western Roman In 1918 Istria briefly became part
Empire, much of the eastern Adriatic coast of the new kingdom of Serbs, Croats
came under the control of Byzantium. The and Slovenes, which subsequently
intricate, well-preserved golden mosaics became Yugoslavia in the same year.
of the 6th-century basilica of St Euphrasius Many Istrian towns have two official
in Poreč survive from that time. names, an Italian and a Croatian one,
In 1420 the area came under Venetian rule, a legacy from 1920, when Istria was
a situation which was to last until 1797, when given to Italy as a reward for having
Napoleon dissolved the Venetian Republic. joined the Allies in World War I. During
Nearly 400 years of Venetian rule are recorded World War II, the region became a
by 15th-century open-air loggias, elegant bell stronghold for Italian partisans. After
towers and buildings with Venetian-Gothic 1943, most of Istria was given back
windows, built by wealthy merchants. to Yugoslavia.






















The Roman amphitheatre at Pula, one of the best preserved Roman theatres in the world
Lake and falls, Plitvice Lakes National Park



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52  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Istria and the Kvarner Area

Istria is a triangular peninsula, traditionally divided into
three areas. White Istria is the mountainous northern
part characterized by karst or limestone; grey Istria
is the central plateau partially rich in vegetation and
furrowed by the rivers Mirna and Raša; and red Istria is
the coastal area that derives its name from a fertile red
soil called crvenica. The most popular destinations in Istria
are Poreč, Rovinj, Pula and the Brijuni National Park. The
Kvarner area includes the city of Rijeka and the coastline
as far as Jablanac. Woods cover the northern hinterland,
with the Risnjak National Park to the north, and the Plitvice
Lakes National Park to the southeast. The islands of Krk, Cathedral of St Mary the Great on the
Cres, Lošinj and Rab are delightful places to explore. Many island of Rab
of the towns on the coast have an Italianate appearance.

Trieste Tršće
Trieste Reka Ljubljana
PRIMORSKO -
Rupa
UMAG GORANSKA
(UMAGO) Crni Lug Kupa
RISNJAK Velika Karlovac
BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK
Delnice
Grožnjan TOUR OF THE KASTAV Vrbovsko
Mirna FORTIFIED TOWNS Matulji
NOVIGRAD Motovun OPATIJA RIJEKA Ravna
Gora
(CITTANOVA) ISTARSKA Boljun BAKAR Kapela
POREČ LOVRAN KRALJEVICA Bjelolasica
(PARENZO) PAZIN 1534m
GRAČIŠĆE MOŠĆENICE
Baderna PIĆAN Omišalj CRIKVENICA
VRSAR Brestova
(ORSERA) Dvigrad PLOMIN Porozina Šilo Karlovac
SVETVINČENAT
ROVINJ LABIN NOVI
(ROVIGNO) KRK VINODOLSKI
BALE BARBAN Rabac
(VALLE) Valbiska Krk
Krk
Venice Brinje
Merag SENJ M a l a K a p e l a Karlovac
VODNJAN (DIGNANO) Cres Baška
BRIJUNI FAŽANA(FASANA) Plavnik Gacka Korana
NATIONAL
PARK K v a r n e r Lubenice Lukovo Otočac PLITVICE LAKES Plitvice
PULA(POLA) CRES K Rab Lopar NATIONAL PARK
v
a
Kampor RAB Mali Rajinac Bihać
r
1699m
n
Rab Korenica P l j
e
Cres r Jablanac V e
Dolin
i e š
Getting Around Osor ć LIČKO - SENJSKA e
Unije l v
The roads are good; there is a motorway e i c
linking Rijeka to Zagreb, as well as from Nerezine b a
Pula to the border with Slovenia. The larger Pag i t Lički Osik Ozeblin
islands can be reached by tourist and local LOŠINJ (LUSSINO) Udbina 1657m
ferries and there are frequent sailings in the Lošinj Karlobag Gospić Lika Donji
summer season – these take cars also. Buses Susak Mali Lošinj Veli Lošinj Zadar Gračac Lapac
link all the main towns and there’s a bus that runs Zadar
from Pula to Trieste, while trains link Rijeka and
Zagreb, with connections to the south of Croatia. Ilovik
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40
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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  53


Sights at a Glance HUNGARY
1 Buje (Buie) p Lovran SLOVENIA • ZAGREB
2 Umag (Umago) s Opatija
3 Novigrad (Cittanova) d Kastav
BOSNIA-
4 Poreč (Parenzo) pp55–7 f Rijeka pp72–3 HERZEGOVINA
5 Vrsar (Orsera) g Cres
6 Rovinj (Rovigno) h Lošinj (Lussino) ADRIATIC
7 Bale (Valle) j Risnjak National Park pp76–7 SEA
8 Vodnjan (Dignano) k Krk Locator Map
9 Fažana (Fasana) l Bakar
0 Brijuni National Park pp60–61 z Kraljevica (Porto Re)
q Pula (Pola) pp62–5 x Crikvenica
w Barban c Novi Vinodolski
e Svetvinčenat v Senj Key
r Pazin b Rab pp84–5
t Gračišće n Plitvice Lakes National Park Motorway
y Pićan pp88–9 Major road
u Labin Minor road
i Plomin Tour Motorway under construction
Trieste Tršće
Trieste Reka Ljubljana o Mošćenice a Tour of the Fortified Towns Main railway
PRIMORSKO - County border
Rupa
UMAG GORANSKA International border
(UMAGO) Crni Lug Kupa Ferry route
RISNJAK Velika Karlovac
BUJE (BUIE) Buzet NATIONAL PARK Summit
Delnice
Grožnjan TOUR OF THE KASTAV Vrbovsko
Mirna FORTIFIED TOWNS Matulji
NOVIGRAD Motovun OPATIJA RIJEKA Ravna
Gora
(CITTANOVA) ISTARSKA Boljun BAKAR Kapela
POREČ LOVRAN KRALJEVICA Bjelolasica
(PARENZO) PAZIN 1534m
GRAČIŠĆE MOŠĆENICE
Baderna PIĆAN Omišalj CRIKVENICA
VRSAR Brestova
(ORSERA) Dvigrad PLOMIN Porozina Šilo Karlovac
SVETVINČENAT
ROVINJ LABIN NOVI
(ROVIGNO) KRK VINODOLSKI
BALE BARBAN Rabac
(VALLE) Valbiska Krk The rocky coastline near Rovinj
Krk
Venice Brinje
Merag SENJ M a l a K a p e l a Karlovac 0 kilometres 30
VODNJAN (DIGNANO) Cres Baška
BRIJUNI FAŽANA(FASANA) Plavnik Gacka Korana 0 miles 30
NATIONAL
PARK K v a r n e r Lubenice Lukovo Otočac PLITVICE LAKES Plitvice
PULA(POLA) CRES K Rab Lopar NATIONAL PARK
v
a
Kampor RAB Mali Rajinac Bihać
1699m
r
Rab Korenica P l j
n
e
Cres r Jablanac V e
Dolin
i š
Osor ć e LIČKO - SENJSKA e
Unije l v
i
e
c
Nerezine b a

i Lički Osik
Pag t Ozeblin
LOŠINJ (LUSSINO) 1657m
Lošinj Gospić Lika Udbina Donji
Karlobag Lapac
Mali Lošinj Gračac
Susak Veli Lošinj Zadar
Zadar
Ilovik
For keys to symbols see back flap
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54  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


of biblical scenes are by work and exhibit their art in
Gasparo della Vecchia (early the various local galleries
18th century). and workshops.
The Civic Museum houses
some interesting handicrafts
and pieces made by local 2 Umag (Umago)
craftsmen.
Map A2. * 13,000. k Pula, 83 km
(51 miles). @ Joakima Rakovca bb,
E Civic Museum (060) 317 060. n Trgovačka 6, (052)
Trg Josipa Broza Tita 6. Tel (052) 773 741 363. _ Feast of St Pilgrim
075. Open Jul & Aug: 9am–1pm, (weekend nearest 23 May);
5–9pm Mon–Sat; Sep–Jun: by appt. International tennis tournament
(end Jul); concerts in summer.
Environs ∑ coloursofistria.com
Perched on a hilltop, 8 km
(5 miles) southeast of Buje, This town is located on a
Façade of the Church of St Servelus, Buje is the medieval town of narrow peninsula which frames
Grožnjan (Grisignana). a small bay. It was founded by
1 Buje (Buie) The town was first the Romans and given the
documented in 1102 when it name of Umacus. In 1268, it
Map A2. * 6,000. k Pula, 70 km (43
miles) S. @ from Pula, Rijeka, Kopar, became the property of the became an important port
Trieste, Padova, Zagreb, Rovinj, Poreč. patriarch of Aquileia. In 1358 when it passed into Venetian
n 1 svibnja 2, (052) 773 353. the Venetians bought the town hands. Later, in the 14th
_ Grape festival (3rd weekend Sep). from Baron Reiffenberg century, a wall and towers
∑ coloursofistria.com and since that time it were built, some of
has been the which still remain.
On an isolated hill, among administrative and The town still
flourishing vineyards, stands military centre of has many 15th-
Buje, the ancient Roman the surrounding and 16th-century
settlement of Bullea. Formerly a area. A tower, some stone houses,
Frankish feudal village, in 1102 it parts of the walls some with ornate
became part of the Patriarchate and two doors are Gothic windows.
of Aquileia and in 1412 the all that remain of On the left
town came under Venetian rule. the Old Town. outer wall of
The town still retains the Within the walls the 18th-century
outline of the ancient walled are a 16th-century Church of St Mary
castle and has kept its original loggia, in the main 15th-century polyptych, church (Sv. Marija) is a
medieval layout, with narrow square, and the of St Mary, Umag relief of St Pilgrim
alleys and lanes leading to the Baroque Church of and the fortified
main square. The Cathedral of St Vitus and St Modest. The town of Umag, and inside the
St Servelus (Sv. Servol) and its church has splendid altars and church is a 15th-century
Aquileian bell tower stand here. an impressive marble choir. Venetian-school polyptych.
The church was built in the After World War II, the Today Umag is a busy seaside
16th century over the remains majority of the inhabitants, resort with numerous hotels.
of a Roman temple, of which a nearly all of them Italian, It has become known for its
few columns and pieces survive. abandoned the town. In 1965, well-equipped sports centres,
Inside the church are wooden however, it was declared a “City and major tennis tournaments
statues from the 14th and 15th of Artists”. Contemporary artists are held here.
centuries (Madonna with Child
and St Barbara), sculptures
representing St Servelus and
St Sebastian (1737) by Giovanni
Marchiori, and an organ by
Gaetano Callido (1725–1813).
A 15th-century Venetian
Gothic palace and a 16th-
century loggia with a frescoed
façade also face the square.
Outside the walls is the
Church of St Mary (Sv. Marija),
erected in the 15th century: a
wooden statue of the Virgin
and a Pietà are from the same
period. Some of the paintings The ancient wall and port of Umag
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  55


(Decumanus) and another
main road at right angles
(Cardo). The main monuments
of the town line these roads.
Along the Decumanus
stand many Gothic houses.
At the easternmost point is
the Baroque Sinčić Palace
(18th century), which houses
the Poreč Museum (Zavičajni
Muzej Poreštine). It is dedicated
to Roman and early Christian
archaeology; an ethnographic
Boats in the harbour at Poreč section illustrates daily life
3 Novigrad 4 Poreč (Parenzo) in the Poreč region. Nearby
in St Maurus Street (Sv. Mauro)
(Cittanova) Map A2. * 11,000. k Pula, 53 km is the House of Two Saints,
Map A2. * 4,000. k Pula, 60 km (33 miles). £ Pazin, 32 km (20 miles). all that is left of the abbey
of St Cassius (12th century),
(37 miles). £ Pazin, 41 km (25 miles). @ Ulica K Hoguesa 2, (060) 333 111.
n Mandrač 29a, (052) 757 075. n Local: Zagrebačka 9, (052) 451 with two Romanesque
_ GnamGnam Fest: Novigrad Scallop 458; Regional: Pionirska 1, (052) 452 figures on the façade. To
Evening (first Fri in Jun), Patron saint’s 797. _ Season of classical music (at the west, the Decumanus
day, St Pelagius (weekend nearest St Euphrasius) and jazz festival (both leads to Trg Marafor, once
28 Aug). ∑ coloursofistria.com Jul & Aug). ∑ to-porec.com the site of the forum,
with houses from the
Originally a Greek colony and Poreč was a Roman town 12th and 13th centuries
later a Roman one called (Colonia Julia Parentium) which, and the remains of a
Aemonia, Novigrad stands after centuries of splendour, pre-Roman temple.
at the mouth of the River was sacked by the Goths and North of the square is
Mirna. In the Byzantine period fell into decline. In 539 it was the church of St Francis
(6th century) when it was conquered by the Byzantines, (Sv. Frane, 12th–14th
enlarged, it was called “New who founded a bishopric centuries), altered
Town” (Neopolis). From the around the year 800. in the Baroque
early Middle Ages until 1831 The town then period. To the east
it was an episcopal seat. In became part of the is the parish house
1277 it passed into Venetian kingdom of the with an ornate
hands and oak from the Franks, who gave it Romanesque façade.
Motovun forests was shipped to the Patriarchate From here there is
to Venetian dockyards. of Aquileia. In 1267 a passage that leads
In the 13th century the town it was the first Istrian to the 6th-century
was walled for defence, but it town to choose Euphrasian Basilica,
was unable to withstand a Venetian rule, and which has marvellous
Turkish attack in 1687 and the the town acquired a Archaeological exhibit Byzantine mosaics
town was partially destroyed Venetian look as in the Poreč Museum (see pp56–7).
along with many works of art. palaces, squares and
Evidence of the Venetian religious buildings were built. E Poreč Museum
period can be seen on the In 1354 it was destroyed by Sinčić Palace, Dekumanska 9. Tel (052)
façades of the houses in the Genoese and later, plague, 431 585. Closed for restoration.
the narrow lanes which lead pirates and a long war greatly
to the main square (Veliki Trg). reduced the population. During
An 18th-century loggia stands Austrian domination it became
here. Of the early Christian the seat of the Istrian parliament
basilica of St Pelagius and an important shipyard.
(Sv. Pelagij), rebuilt in the 16th The old centre shelters on
century, only the Romanesque a narrow peninsula protected
crypt from the 11th century by rocks and the island of
remains. In the present-day St Nicholas. Despite being a
Baroque church are paintings popular base for visitors to
from the Venetian school of Istria, the Old Town has
the 18th century. Evidence remained intact and Poreč
of the Roman and medieval invariably wins an annual award
periods can be seen in for “best-kept town”. The layout
the museum housed in the is based on the original Roman A typical trefoil window in Venetian Gothic
Urizzi Palace. network, with a main road style, Poreč




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56  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Poreč: Euphrasian Basilica
Eufrazijeva bazilika

This 6th-century church, a Byzantine masterpiece, is
decorated with splendid mosaics on a gold background.
The Euphrasian Basilica was built for Bishop Euphrasius
between 539 and 553, by enlarging the existing 4th-century
Oratory of St Maurus Martyr. Some of the original floor
mosaics still survive. Over the centuries the building has
undergone numerous alterations. In December 1997 the
basilica was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Classical concerts are held in the church in July and August.

. Ciborium
Dominating the presbytery is a
beautiful 13th-century ciborium,
supported by four marble
columns. The canopy is
decorated with mosaics.






. Apse Mosaics
Mosaics from the 6th century cover the apse. On the triumphal
arch are Christ and the Apostles (above); on the vault, the
Virgin enthroned with Child and two Angels,
to the left St Maurus, Bishop
Euphrasius with a model of
the basilica, and Deacon
Claud with his son.

















KEY
1 Remains of a 4th-century mosaic
floor from the Oratory of St Maurus
Sacristy and the are in the garden.
Votive Chapel 2 The Bishop’s Residence, a
Past the sacristy’s left wall triple-aisled building dating from
is a triple-apsed chapel the 6th century, now houses several
with a mosaic floor from paintings by Antonio da Bassano, a
the 6th century. Here lie polyptych by Antonio Vivarini and
the remains of the saints a painting by Palma il Giovane.
Maurus and Eleuterius.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  57

Interior
The entrance leads to a VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
large basilica with a central
nave and two side aisles. Practical Information
The 18 Greek marble Eufrazijeva ulica 22.
columns have carved Tel (052) 429 030. Open call
capitals featuring animals, ahead for opening times. &
some of Byzantine origin
and others Romanesque.
All bear the monogram
of Euphrasius.





Baptistry
This octagonal building dates
from the 6th century. In the
centre is a baptismal font and
there are also fragments of
mosaics; to the rear rises a
16th-century bell tower.


































Atrium
This has a roughly
square portico with two
columns on each side.
Tombstones and a variety
of archaeological finds
dating from the medieval
period are displayed
in this area.




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58  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


now a marine reserve. The In the square in front of the pier
channel is 9 km (5 miles) long is Balbi’s Arch (1680), an ancient
and 600 m (1,970 ft) wide, with city gate, as well as a late-
steep sides perforated by Renaissance clock tower. The
limestone caves which have Califfi Palace, dating from 1680,
been lived in from time to time is now the Heritage Museum,
since the Neolithic Age. In the housing 18th-century art from
early 11th century, one of the the Venetian school and works
caves was the home of the hermit by modern Croatian artists.
St Romualdo, who founded In the roads branching off
the monastery of St Michael the square are Baroque and
near Kloštar. Renaissance buildings. The
Church of St Anthony in Vrsar, built in the Many of the restaurants in backs of many of these face
17th century the area offer the oysters and the sea. The cathedral,
mussels farmed in the channel. dedicated to St Euphemia (Sv.
5 Vrsar (Orsera) Eufemija), dominates the town.
Origi-nating in early Christian
Map A3. * 2,200. k Pula, 41 km
(25 miles). £ Pazin, 42 km (26 miles). times, it was rebuilt in 1736. The
n Rade Končara 46, (052) 441 187. saint’s remains are preserved in
_ International sculpture school, a Roman sarcophagus in the
Montraker quarry (early Sep); classical apse on the right of the three-
music concerts (summer). aisle church. The adjacent bell
∑ infovrsar.com tower is 62 m (200 ft) high
(the second-highest in Istria),
The remains of a villa, a quarry Fishermen on the Limski Channel and was modelled on that
and the foundations of an early of San Marco in Venice. It is
Christian building all provide crowned by a copper statue
evidence that Romans once 6 Rovinj (Rovigno) of St Euphemia.
settled here. In documents Map A3. * 13,000. k Pula, 40 km In the east of the city is the
preceding 1000 AD, this village (25 miles). £ Pula. @ Trg na lokvi, 13th-century Baptistry of the
is mentioned as the feudal (060) 333 111. n Obala Pina Holy Trinity (Sv. Trojstvo).
territory of the bishop of Poreč, Budicina 12, (052) 811 566. _ Grisia, Along the waterfront is the
who owned a fortified summer International art exhibition (2nd Sun Centre for Maritime Research.
residence here. Until 1778 it in Aug); Patron St Euphemia’s day It was founded in the late 19th
remained under the protection (16 Sep). ∑ tzgrovinj.hr century and has an aquarium.
of the bishop and then came Nearby, Red Island (Crveni otok)
under Venetian rule. Rovinj was originally an island is in fact two islands linked by
The town had an outer wall port built by the Romans. In an embankment.
and towers which have now 1763, Rovinj was joined to the South of the town is Zlatni Rt,
almost disappeared except for coast by filling in the channel a forest park planted with
the West and East Town Gate dividing the island from the cedars, pines and cypresses.
and some fragments of the mainland, creating a peninsula.
walls. On the harbour is the Initially ruled by the Byzantines E Heritage Museum
Church of St Mary (Sv. Marija) and the Franks, from 1283 until Trg maršala Tita 11. Tel (052) 816 720,
from the 10th century, one of 1797 the town was under 830 650. Open summer: 10am–2pm,
the most important Romanesque Venetian control. The remains of 6–10pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm, 7–10pm
monuments in Istria. Guitar a wall dating back to the Middle Sat & Sun; winter: 10am–1pm Tue–Sat.
concerts are held here in the Ages can still be seen. ∑ muzej-rovinj.com
summer months.
The town is dominated by the
18th-century Vergottini Castle,
built by restructuring the
bishop’s former residence. Near
the Romanesque gate in the
medieval wall is the small church
of St Anthony, built in the 17th
century with an open portico.

Environs
Just outside Vrsar lies
Koversada, Europe’s largest
naturist resort.
To the south of Vrsar, towards
Rovinj, is the Limski Channel, Boats docked at the harbour in Rovinj
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  59

9 Fažana (Fasana)
Map A3. * 3,900. k Pula, 8 km
(5 miles). £ Vodnjan, 5 km (3 miles).
4 to the Brijuni Islands. n 43
istarske divizije 8, (052) 383 727.
∑ infofazana.hr
This small fishing town is known
mainly as the embarkation
point for the islands of the
Brijuni National Park (see pp60–
61). Its ancient name, Vasianum,
derives from the production of
oil and wine amphorae during
Church of St Elizabeth inside the walls of Bale the Roman period. Facing the
sea is the church of SS Cosmas
7 Bale (Valle) 8 Vodnjan and Damian (Sv. Kuzma i
Map A3. * 900. k Pula, 10 km (Dignano) Damjan), which was founded in
(17 miles). £ Pula, 25 km (15 miles). Map A3. * 4,000. k Pula, 11 km (7 the 11th century and has under-
@ Trg palih boraca. n Rovinjska 1, miles). £ Željeznička ulica, (052) 511 gone various reconstructions.
(052) 824 270. _ Night of Bale, 538. n Narodni trg 3, (052) 511 700. Inside is a painting by Jurai
Baljanska noć (first Sun in Aug); _ New Olive Oil Days (3rd weekend Ventura of The Last Supper
Castrum Vallis, art exhibition (Jul & in Nov). ∑ vodnjandignano.com (1578), and in the sacristy are
Aug). ∑ bale-valle.hr remains of frescoes by Italian
The town of Vodnjan stands on artists from Friuli dating from
On a hill of limestone, the a hill among vineyards and olive the 15th–16th centuries.
Illyrians constructed a fort which groves. At one time it was an To the side of the church is a
dominated the surrounding Illyrian fort and later, a Roman seven-storey bell tower with an
countryside. The Romans also military post known as Vicus octagonal spire. The Church of
built a castrum (Castrum Vallis) Atinianus. From 1331 until 1797, Our Lady of Carmel from the
on the same site, which was it was under Venetian rule. late 14th century has Gothic
renovated when the place The large People Square in frescoes by unknown artists and
became a feudal estate of the the centre of the town is sur- a 17th-century loggia. Nearby
Patriarchate of Aquileia. During rounded by notable buildings is the church of St Eliseus from
Venetian rule, which began in such as the Benussi House, the the 6th century, with a stone
1332, the town grew in size and Bembo House, the City Hall, doorway and blind-arch
acquired its present layout of built in Neo-Gothic style, and windows, which preserves its
an elliptical wall with towers the elegant Bradamante Palace. Byzantine appearance from
enclosing two parallel rows of The old part of town still has the 8th–9th centuries.
houses. Interesting buildings various buildings in Venetian- Thanks to the growth in
include the Gothic-Venetian Gothic style, including the Bettica numbers of visitors heading for
Magistrates’ Court with coats of Palace and the 18th-century the Brijuni Islands, the town has
arms on the portico; the loggia; Church of St Blaise (Sv. Blaž). In grown and new facilities have
and the Gothic-Renaissance the church are some splendid been built.
Castle dating from the 15th statues and about 20 paintings
century, a residence for the from the 14th to 19th centuries,
Soardo Bembo family. Under as well as a Last Supper by
one of the two side towers is a G Contarini (1598) and an
gate leading to the Old Town. Encounter of Saints attributed
The Church of St Elizabeth to Palma il Vecchio. There is
(Pohođenje Blažene Djevice also a fine polyptych by Paolo
Marije), of Romanesque origins, Veneziano from 1351 (Portrait of
was reconstructed in the 16th the Blessed Leon Bembo), plus six
century and again in the 19th. mummies of saints, which have
The church contains a splendid survived miraculously without
Romanesque crucifix, a sarco pha- being embalmed. The most
gus, a polyptych and a crypt revered is that of St Nicolosia.
with a marble Renaissance altar.
There are two other churches R St Blaise
in Bale. One dates from the Župni trg. Tel (052) 511 420.
14th century and is dedicated Open by appt. Collection of Religious
to St Anthony; the other, Art: Tel (052) 511 420. Open Jun–Sep:
dedicated to the Holy Spirit, 9:30am–7pm Mon–Sat, noon–5pm Façade of the Church of SS. Cosmas and
was built in the 15th century. Sun; Oct–May: by appt. Damian in Fažana




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60  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

0 Brijuni National Park
Nacionalni park Brijuni
SV. MARKO
The Brijuni Archipelago is made up
of 14 islands and was declared a
national park in 1983. The two GAZ
largest islands have been OBLJAK
inhabited since the Palaeolithic
era. In Roman times there were MALI BRIJUN
LESSER BRIJUN
aristocratic villas and later religious
communities. The islands were
abandoned in 1630 because of malaria, SUPIN
but people returned in the following century
to work the stone quarries. In the late 19th
century, the islands were bought by the Tyrolean
industrialist Paul Kupelwieser. After World War II they SUPINIĆ
were used as a summer residence by Marshal Tito, and
were visited by heads of state. Visitors are only allowed
on the two main islands, Veli Brijun and Mali Brijun.
Barban
The Brijuni Islands BRIONI
The islands are covered GOLF COURSE
with lush vegetation,
much of it undisturbed
by human habitation.
GALIJA





GRUNJ


PUSTI
VANGA







Safari Park VRSAR
Tito introduced many species of exotic
animal, including zebra. Many were gifts
from visiting heads of state.


Key
Minor road

Native Animals
Numerous indigenous animals also
live freely in the park: fallow deer, 0 metres
moufflon, roe deer, hares, peacocks 800
and about 200 species of wild bird. 0 yards 800
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


060-061_EW_Croatia.indd 60 20/10/16 12:31 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.9)
Date 28th May 2014
Size 125mm x 217mm

ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  61


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map A3.
Tel (052) 525 888.
Individuals and groups must
book on an excursion, which
includes the boat crossing.
Bicycles can be hired.
Open always, but access
limited to crossing times.
& 8 ∑ np-brijuni.hr
Ancient Trees
Hundreds of different plant species from all over the world were Transport
planted on Brijun. Many of the trees, like this ancient olive, are 4 from Fažana.
now fully mature and are regarded as living monuments.


Roman Villa
Excavations have unearthed the
foundations of a Roman villa, its
calidarium (hot room) and a
frigidarium (cold room). A large
room where the family met for
banquets and ceremonies is
decorated with mosaics.
BRIONI
GOLF COURSE
VELIKI BRIJUN
GREATER BRIJUN
KEY
1 The fort of Mali Brijun is situated
on the second-largest island in the
archipelago. The Austro-Hungarian
fort was built at the end of the
Brijuni 19th century.
2 The museum, opened in 1955,
contains cultural and archaeological
finds from the island.
3 In the area around Brijuni
harbour hotels and a golf course
PUSTI
have been built.
4 The Tegetthoff Fortress is
a ruined Austrian defence system
which was built in the 19th century.
5 The White Villa (Bijela Vila) dates
from the Venetian period. It was
restored in 1721. This was Tito’s
summer residence and was used for
receptions and political meetings.
Rt Ploče






Byzantine Castrum
On the western coast, in
the gulf of Dobrika, are
Peneda
the ruins of a complex
of buildings dating from
the Byzantine era
(539–778), with towers
and walls for defence.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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62  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

q Pula (Pola)

Pula is well known for its magnificent monuments from
the Roman era, when it was a colony known as Pietas
Julia. It became an episcopal seat in 425 and still has the
foundations of some 5th-century religious buildings. It was
destroyed by the Ostrogoths, but flourished again when
it became the main base for the Byzantine fleet in the 6th
and 7th centuries: the cathedral and chapel of St Mary of
Formosa date from this time. In 1150 it came under Venetian
rule, but by the mid-17th century the population had
declined to 300. It was revitalized in 1856 when Austria
made it the base for its fleet. Today, Pula is a university
town and, with Pazin (see pp66–7), the administrative
centre of Istria.
The Cathedral’s interior, a combination of
styles and periods
R Church of St Francis
Sv. Frane example of Roman architecture,
Uspon B. Lupetine 5. built on simple lines, with six
Open Jun–Sep: 10am–1pm, plain columns and beautiful
4–8pm; Oct–May: for Mass. carved capitals.
Built at the same time as the
adjacent monastery in the late R Cathedral
13th century, this church has a Katedrala
fine doorway with a Gothic rose Trg sv. Tome 2. Open Jun–Sep: 10am–
window. The interior is a single 1pm, 4–8pm; Oct–May: for Mass.
nave with three apses; on the The Cathedral, dedicated to
main altar is a splendid wooden the Blessed Virgin Mary, was
15th-century polyptych of the founded in the 5th century
Emilian school. Various exhibits after Pula became an episcopal
Arch of the Sergians, 1st century BC from the imperial Roman era can seat. Its present appearance
be seen in the monastery cloisters. dates back only as far as the
T Arch of the Sergians 17th century. However, parts
Slavoluk obitelji Sergijevaca T Temple of Augustus of the walls, some of the capitals
Ulica Sergijevaca. Augustov hram and the windows are from the
The arch was erected in the Forum. Tel (052) 218 603. original building. On the right
1st century BC on the orders Open Apr–Jun: 9am–9pm Mon–Fri, is a door way from 1456, while
of Salvia Postuma Sergia, to 9am–3pm Sat & Sun; Jul & Aug: 9am– the bell tower, which was built
honour three brothers who 10pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm Sat & Sun; by 1707, contains stone blocks
held important positions in the Sep: 9am–8pm Mon–Fri, 9am–3pm from the amphitheatre.
Roman Empire. The arch is small Sat & Sun; Oct–Mar: by appt. &
with fluted columns, a winged Built in the 1st century AD, this R Church of St Nicholas
Victory and Corinthian capitals. temple stands in the square Sv. Nikola
Its frieze has a bas-relief depicting which was once the site of the Castropola 39. Open for Mass.
a chariot pulled by horses. Roman forum. It is a splendid n (052) 212 987 (tourist office).
Next door is a bar named This church dates from the 6th
Uliks (“Ulysses”), in memory century but was partially rebuilt in
of James Joyce, who lived the 10th century. Towards the end
here for six months in 1904. of the 15th century it was assigned
to the Orthodox community.
R Chapel of St Mary Inside are some fine icons from
of Formosa the 15th and 16th centuries.
Kapela Marije Formoze
Maksimilijanova ulica. + Castle & Historical and
Closed to public. Maritime Museum of Istria
A small Byzantine chapel built Povijesni i pomorski muzej Istre
on a Greek cross plan, this was Gradinski uspon 6. Tel (052) 211 566.
once part of the large Basilica Open Jun–Sep: 8am–9pm daily; Oct–
of St Mary of Formosa. Inside May: 9am–5pm daily. &
are remains of mosaics from Temple of Augustus, a jewel of This star-shaped castle with four
the 6th century. Roman architecture bastions houses the Historical
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


062-063_EW_Croatia.indd 62 20/10/16 12:31 pm

PULA (POLA)  63


and Maritime Museum of Istria former German school, within VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
and was built by the Venetians a park which is reached from
in the 17th century on the ruins the Twin Gate. On display are Practical Information
of the Roman Capitol in the city finds from Pula, with collections Map A3. * 60,000. n Tourist
centre. The walls linking the four from the prehistoric era to the office: Forum 3, (052) 219 197.
towers offer views over the city. Middle Ages. On the ground _ Music events in Arena,
Nearby are remains of a small, floor are architectural remains, Pula Amphitheatre (summer),
2nd-century Roman theatre. mosaics, altars and other Croatian Film Festival (summer).
∑ pulainfo.hr
exhibits from antiquity to
T Twin Gate medieval times. Transport
Dvojna vrata The rooms on the first floor k 8 km (5 miles), (052) 530 105.
Carrarina. contain exhibits from the g Jadroagent, (052) 210 431.
The gate, from the 2nd–3rd Neolithic to the Roman era. £ (052) 541 722. @ 43 istarske
centuries, has two arches with Three rooms on the second divizije, (060) 304 090.
an ornate frieze. Nearby floor are dedicated to Roman
are parts of the wall antiquity. Highlights of this
which once encircled collection include a headless T Gate of Hercules
the city. female statue found at Herculova vrata
Nesactium, near Pula). Carrarina.
E Archaeological Two rooms at the The arched Gate of Hercules,
Museum of Istria museum have exhibits built in the 1st century BC, is
Arheološki muzej Istre from the late Classical the oldest and best-preserved
Carrarina 3. Tel (052) 351 to medieval periods. Roman monument in the city. At
301. Closed for renovation Of particular interest the top of the arch is a carving of
untill 2018. & 8 by appt are pieces from the head of Hercules with a club.
= ∑ ami-pula.hr Slavic tombs dating
This museum is Headless Statue, from the 7th to the T Amphitheatre
housed in the Archaeological Museum 12th centuries. See pp64–5.

Pula Town Centre
Train Station
1 Arch of the Sergians 9 Archaeological 200 m (220 yards)
2 Chapel of St Mary Museum of Istria Bus Station
250 m (275 yards)
of Formosa 0 Gate of Hercules KOLODVORSKA
3 Church of St Francis q Amphitheatre FLAVIJEVSKA
4 Temple of Augustus
5 Cathedral
6 Church of St Nicholas
7 Castle & Historical Harbour
and Maritime Museum S C A L I E R O V A
of Istria
8 Twin Gate I S T A R S K A Amphitheatre
AMFITEATARSKA
R I V A SV. TEODORA
SV. IVANA
Cathedral
KANDLEROVA Church of Twin Gate E P U L O N O V A
St Nicholas
CA ST R OP OL A Theatre CARRARINA D O B R I Č E V A
Town
Hall Archaeological
Temple of Castle Museum of Istria
Augustus and Historical Gate ZADARSKA
Church of Museum of Istria of Hercules
FORUM St Francis
Roman
Mosaic
OPATIJSKA G I A R D I N I ZAGREB AČKA
MAKSIMILI- JANOVA SERGIJEVACA VERONSKA
F L A C I U S O V A
Arch of
Church of CLARISSOVA the Sergians
St Mary of Formosa
MATKA LAGINJE Market 0 metres 200
ANTICOVA NARODNI
TRG
ARSENALSKA DOBRILINA 0 yards 200
For keys to symbols see back flap
062-063_EW_Croatia.indd 63 20/10/16 12:31 pm

64  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Pula Amphitheatre
Amfiteatar

The elliptical arena in Pula is one of the six largest
Roman amphitheatres existing today. Originally a small
amphitheatre built here by Claudius, it was enlarged by
Vespasian in AD 79 for gladiator fights. The amphitheatre
could hold 23,000 spectators and had about 20 entrances.
It remained intact until the 15th century when some of the
stone was used to construct the castle and other buildings
in the city. It was restored, first in 1816 by the French
governor of the Illyrian provinces, General Marmont, and
again in 1932 when it was adapted for musical events. It can The amphitheatre
seat 5,000 spectators and is a venue for concerts ranging
from opera to rock, as well as hosting an annual film festival.


















Four Towers
The roofs of the towers
were designed to collect
the scented water that
was sprayed onto the stalls.
It is also thought that
there was a structure
capable of supporting
large awnings as protection
from the sun and rain.













Amphitheatre Wall
The well-preserved external wall of the
amphitheatre has three floors on the side facing
the sea, and two on the opposite side, because
it was constructed on an incline. At its highest
point, the external wall measures 29.4 m (96 ft).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


064-065_EW_Croatia.indd 64 20/10/16 12:31 pm

PULA (POLA)  65


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Flavijevska ulica. Tel (052) 219
028. Open summer: 8am–9pm
daily (to midnight Jul & Aug);
winter: 9am–5pm daily.
& 7 limited access.

Interior of the Amphitheatre Reconstruction
When first built, the broad tiers could seat an audience of 23,000 The main floor of the arena,
people. Shows of every kind were performed, including naval 67.75 m (222 ft) long and 41.05
battles. Today, during the summer season, operas, ballets and
plays are put on here. m (135 ft) wide, was originally
framed by iron railings to
separate spectators from the
performance. Between the tiers
of seats and the railings there
was a space, 3m (10 ft) wide,
reserved for staff. Along the
main axis, under the arena,
were underground corridors
used by the gladiators and
cages for animals. The animals
were kept here before being
sent into the stadium.





















Arches
The first two floors have 72
arches, the third has 64 large
rectangular openings. The
arches lit the internal corridors
which enabled spectators to
move from one sector of the
amphitheatre to another.


KEY
Underground Area 1 The various corridors which led
Many archaeological finds from to the seats allowed spectators to
the amphitheatre and other find their places efficiently.
Roman buildings are kept in the 2 The southwest tower is one of
underground passages, where the entrances.
there were once cages and prisons.




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66  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

w Barban in the village are found here, Around 1000 AD, two castles
Map B3. * 250. k Pula, 28 km including the 15th-century were built on neighbouring
(17 miles). £ Pula. @ from Pula. Church of the Annunciation hills and were later enclosed
n Barban 69, (052) 567 420. which contains two paintings by an oval wall. A village of
_ Trka na prstenac, Tournament by Palma il Giovane and an some 200 inhabitants grew
of the Ring (3rd weekend in Aug). Annunciation by Giuseppe up here around the basilica
∑ tz-barban.hr Porto-Salviati. of St Sophia, built between
The Castle dates from the the 11th and 12th centuries.
A free town in the late 13th century and is one of the Although attacked and
Middle Ages, in the 13th best preserved in the region. burned by the Genoese in the
century Barban came It belonged to the Venetian 14th century during the war
under the rule of the families of Castropola, with Venice, the village soon
county of Pazin, and the Morosini and the recovered. In the 17th century,
from 1516 until 1797 Grimani. In 1589, sacking by the Uskoks (see
it was part of Venetian the Grimani p83) and a malaria epidemic
territory. It was commissioned the depopulated the village. It has
granted to the architect Scamozzi not been inhabited since then.
Loredan family in to convert one of the
1535, and many square towers into
buildings acquired Church of the a residence for the
their current Venetian Annunciation, Venetian governors,
look. The town still has Svetvinčenat the other into a
some medieval fortifi- prison. High walls
cations which now incorporate connecting the other two round
several Renaissance buildings. towers enclose a large internal
The Church of St Nicholas courtyard. This is reached
(Sv. Nikola) faces the square, through the citadel’s only gate, Reconstruction of a room in the
which is reached through the which at one time had a Ethnographic Museum, Pazin
Great Gate (Vela Vrata). The drawbridge. The town’s coat of
church has five marble Gothic arms and that of the Grimani r Pazin
altars and many Venetian family can also be seen here.
paintings (16th–18th centuries), The town’s name derives Map B2. * 5,300. £ (052) 624 310.
one attributed to the Italian from the Romanesque church @ (060) 306 040. n Franine i Jurine
artist Padovanino. and cemetery of St Vincent 14, (052) 622 460. ∑ central-istria.
com/pazin
In the same square is the (Sv. Vinčenat), whose walls
Loredan Palace from 1606 and, were frescoed by an unknown
towards the Small Gate (Mala 15th-century artist. The town of Pazin originated
Vrata), the Town Hall, dating in the 9th century as a fort
from 1555. R St Vincent and stands on a cliff 130 m
Outside the Great Gate is Cemetery. Tel (052) 560 004. (426 ft) high. One side of the
the 14th-century Church of Open by appt. cliff falls away to an abyss,
St Anthony (Sv. Antun), with which is 100 m (328 ft) deep
frescoes from the 15th century. Environs and about 20 m (65 ft) wide,
In 1976, the Tournament of About 10 km (6 miles) away and is said to have inspired
the Ring was revived and are the ruins of Dvigrad Dante’s description of the
costumed lancers on horses (Duecastelli), an atmospheric, Gateway to Hell in Inferno,
participate in this traditional abandoned walled village, as well as Jules Verne’s novel
annual event. surrounded by lush vegetation. Mathias Sandorf.
R St Nicholas
Tel (052) 567 173. Open by appt.

e Svetvinčenat
Map A3. * 300. £ Pazin. @ from
Pula. n Svetvinčenat 20, (052) 560
349. ∑ tz-svetvincenat.hr
This walled village was built in
the 10th century on a small hill
around a much restructured
fort. The main square is one
of the most beautiful in Istria.
Many of the main buildings Imposing, overgrown ruins of Dvigrad
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


066-067_EW_Croatia.indd 66 20/10/16 12:31 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  67


In the 14th century, Pazin
passed into the hands of the
Habsburgs, who sold it to
the Montecuccoli family in the
18th century. They maintained
ownership of the castle after
the end of the feudal regime.
The castle’s present layout
dates from the 16th century.
The tower is reached through
a doorway in the façade
made in 1786. It houses the
Ethnographic Museum of Istria
(Etnografski muzej Istre) and The hilltop town of Pićan with its 48-m (157-ft) bell tower, one of the tallest in Istria
the Pazin Town Museum, where
weaponry and finds from the y Pićan window decorates the façade
castle are on display. Map B2. * 320. @ only during and inside are works by
The Church of the Visitation school year; contact Pazin (060) 306 Venetian artists of the 16th
of the Blessed Virgin Mary 040. n Franine i Jurine 14, Pazin, (052) and 17th centuries, including
(Pohođenje Blažene Djevice 622 460. ∑ central-istria.com/pican a painting by Palma il Giovane.
Marije) and its 15th-century In the same street are the
monastery are worth a visit. Known as Petina under the Scampicchio Palace and the
Romans, Pićan stands on a early 18th-century Baroque
E Ethnographic Museum of Istria hilltop 350m (1,150 ft) high. Battiala Lazzarini Palace, also
Castle, Trg Istarskog razvoda 1275, It was a bishop’s see from Late Venetian-influenced, and now
no 1. Tel (052) 622 220. Open 10am– Antiquity to the end of the 18th the Town Museum, with Roman
6pm daily. & 8 ∑ emi.hr century, and has some intriguing and medieval finds and a lifelike
E Pazin Town Museum medieval buildings. Inside the reconstruc tion of a coal mine.
Castle, Trg Istarskog razvoda 1275, medieval walls is a cathedral Labin was Croatia’s most
no 1. Tel (052) 623 054. Open Apr–Oct: dedicated to St Nicephorus, important coal mining town
10am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–3pm built in the 14th century, and until the mines were closed
Tue–Thu, 11am–4pm Fri, 10am–4pm rebuilt in the early 18th century down in 1999. In 1921, in
Sat & Sun. & 8∑ muzej-pazin.hr after an earthquake. The story of opposition to rising Fascism in
the Christian martyr Nicephorus Italy, 2,000 coalminers set up the
is shown in a painting by Valentin Labin Republic, a socialist mini-
t Gračišće Metzinger (1699–1759) in the state that barely lasted a month.
cathedral. The Romanesque
Map B2. * 470. £ Pazin, 7 km E Town Museum
(4 miles). @ only during school Church of St Michael (Sv. Mihovil) Ulica 1 svibnja. Tel (052) 852 477.
year; contact Pazin (060) 306 040. in the cemetery has early 15th- Open May–Sep: 10am–1pm & 5–7pm
n Franine i Jurine 14, Pazin, (052) 622 century frescoes. (Jul & Aug: 6–8pm) Mon–Sat; Oct–Apr:
460. ∑ central-istria.com/gracisce
7am–2pm Mon–Fri (by appt).
This small village stands on a hill u Labin
among woods and vineyards. It Map B3. * 12,000. @ Ulica 2, marta, Environs
was once a strong military garri- (060) 333 888. n Aldo Negri 20, (052) About 4 km (2 miles) from Labin
son, and the second line of 855 560. _ Classical music concerts is Rabac, a popular seaside resort.
defence for the Venetian Republic (Jul–Aug). ∑ rabac-labin.com
and the Habsburg empire. The
town has some interesting build- The old part of Labin is made
ings, such as the 15th-cen tury up of the medieval part inside
Salamon Palace and the Bishop’s the walls, and the part from
Chapel (both in Venetian Gothic the Venetian period around Tito
style) where the bishop of Pićan Square (Titov Trg). Here stand
spent the summer. the 19th-century Town Hall, a
The Church of St Mary 17th-century bastion, a loggia
(Sv. Marije) was consecrated in (1550) and the St Flora gate
1425 and has a barrel vault and (1587) with a Lion of St Mark.
many frescoes. The Romanesque In the square called Stari Trg
Church of St Euphemia lies the Magistrates’ Court (1555)
(Sv. Eufemija) was built in 1383 and in a street leading off the
and renovated in 1864. It still square stands the Gothic
has a wooden crucifix from the Church of the Blessed Mary’s
13th century. The loggia near Birth (Rođenje Marijino), built
the main gate dates from 1549. in the late 14th century. A rose Café in Tito Square, Labin




066-067_EW_Croatia.indd 67 20/10/16 12:31 pm

68  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

o Mošćenice p Lovran
Map B2. * 330. k Rijeka, 53 km Map B2. * 4,000. k Rijeka, 50 km
(33 miles), on the island of Krk. (31 miles, island of Krk). £ Rijeka,
£ Rijeka. n Aleja Slatina bb, 20 km (13 miles). @ Opatija, 6 km
Mošćenička Draga, (051) 739 166. (4 miles). n Trg slobode 1, (051) 291
∑ tz-moscenicka.hr 740. _ Asparagus Festival (Apr);
Cherry Days (Jun); Marunada,
This small village was founded chestnut festival (mid-Oct).
by the Liburnians on a small ∑ tz-lovran.hr
hilltop. The structure of the
medieval town is still evident, The town of Lovran (whose
with houses pressed against name derives from the laurel
the walls, narrow streets, small trees which are common
alleys and courtyards. There are throughout the area) extends
lovely views over the Kvarner along the coast until it meets
Old Town square of Plomin, surrounded by Gulf from the village. the long seafront at Opatija (see
lush green trees In the main square is p69). The old part of the town
the Church of St Andrew is situated on a small peninsula
i Plomin (Sv. Andrije), a building of along the coast. The houses in
medieval origin which the ancient fortified town lean
Map B3. * 140. k Pula, 54 km
(34 miles). £ Rijeka, 55 km (34 miles). was rebuilt in the against the enclosing walls,
n Vozilići 66, Vozilići; (052) 880 155; Baroque style in the of which only a very few
Regional: Pionirska 1, Poreč, 17th century. Inside parts and sections remain:
(052) 452 797. are some statues by just a tower and the
the Paduan sculptor Stubica Gate. In the main
An ancient fortified town once Jacopo Contieri. Just square, as well as a
stood here on the site of the outside the walls are medieval tower there
Roman town Flanona, which the small Church of are several houses with
was destroyed by the Avars in St Sebastian from the Venetian Gothic façades
the 6th century. It was rebuilt 16th century, and the and also the Church of
after 1000 AD and took on its 17th-century Church St George (Sv. Juraj), built
present look in the 13th century of St Bartholomew. in the 12th century and
after it had become Venetian The history of the area rebuilt in the Baroque
territory. Plomin, built on a is documented in the period, along with
sheer cliff 168 m (550 ft) above Ethnographic Museum a Romanesque bell
the bay of the same name, was (Etnografski Muzej). tower. Inside the
once densely populated. Statue by Contieri, church church, on the vault
Houses take up nearly all E Ethnographic of St Andrew, Mošćenice and the arch of the
the space inside the walls Museum apse are some late-
(from the 13th–14th centuries Tel (051) 737 551. Open summer: Gothic frescoes (1470–79)
and only partially preserved). 9am–1pm, 6–9pm daily; winter: depicting the life of Christ and
Worn, narrow roads climb 11am–3pm daily. Closed Jan & Feb. several saints. A building with a
towards the centre, where figure of St George stands in the
the 11th-century Romanesque Environs main square and is worth a visit.
Church of St George (Sv. Juraj) A series of steps leads down Along the coastal promenade,
stands. Inside is a tablet in to Mošćenićka Draga which extends between
Glagolitic script also dating (2 km/1 mile), where there Lovran and the village of Ika,
from the 11th century, one is a large pebble beach. stand several beautiful early
of the oldest documents
in this ancient Slavic script
extant in Croatia.
The Church of the Blessed
Virgin Mary (Crkva Blažene
Djevice Marije) also contains
treasures of artistic merit. The
church was consecrated in
1474, but was greatly altered
in the 18th century. There are
three Baroque altars in carved,
painted wood and a rich
church treasury. A fresco by
Albert, a German painter from
Konstanz, was found on the
wall during restoration work. Old mill at the Ethnographic Museum, Mošćenice
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  69
























Villa Angiolina in Opatija, surrounded by a splendid park
20th-century Secessionist A few years later the Austrian d Kastav
villas (see p27), surrounded by Empress Maria Anna stayed here Map B2. * 10,000. k Rijeka, 20 km
lush gardens. and her visit was immediately (12 miles), island of Krk. £ Rijeka,
followed by visits from other 11 km (7 miles). @ Rijeka, 11 km
R St George court dignitaries. More luxury (7 miles). n Matka Laginje 5, (051) 691
Open Jul & Aug: 7–9:30pm Mon, hotels and villas were then built 425. _ Bela nedeja, wine festival (first
Wed & Fri. and the small town became a Sun in Oct). ∑ kastav-touristinfo.hr
fashionable turn-of-the-century
a Tour of the resort. Tourism in Opatija was On a hill a short distance from
given a boost by the construc-
Rijeka is the town of Kastav,
Fortified Towns tion of the railway line which which originated in the early
linked Austria with Rijeka, with Middle Ages. The castle was
See pp70–71.
a tram line to Opatija. the residence of the local lord
The Emperor Franz Joseph of the manor until the 16th
s Opatija also stayed at a hotel here, often century, and later the home
for long periods during the of the Austrian governor. In
Map B2. * 13,000. k Rijeka, 40 km
(25 miles), island of Krk. £ Rijeka. winter in order to enjoy the mild Lokvina square stand the
@ Rijeka. n Local: Vladimara Nazora climate of the area. Today the church of St Anthony of the
3, (051) 271 710; Regional: Nikole Tesle coast is still lined with luxury Desert, which dates from the
2, (051) 272 988. _ Carnival of the late-19th-century hotels and 15th century, and a loggia from
Riviera (Feb); Coffee Festival (Apr); villas surrounded by parks and 1571, restored in 1815. By the
Gourmet Story (May); Summer Festival gardens. However, it is no longer water trough a plaque recalls
(May–Sep); Opatija-Imperial City (Jul); the height of fashion, although the drowning in 1666 of
Liburnia Jazz Festival (Jul); Chocolate older visitors are drawn by its Captain Morelli, guilty of
Festival (Dec). ∑ visitopatija.com comparative tranquillity. imposing excessive taxes.
The resort of Opatija takes its
name from a 14th-century
Benedictine abbey, around
which a village was built. On
the site of the monastery now
stands the Church of St James
(Sv. Jakov), built in 1506 and
enlarged in 1937.
Tourist interest began to
grow in around 1844 when a
nobleman from Rijeka, Iginio
Scarpa, built the grand Villa
Angiolina here. The villa is
surrounded by a large park
and became the first hotel. Opatija, once a royal haunt and now a popular tourist destination




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70  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


a Tour of the Fortified Towns

The villages and towns of Istria were all fortified. The first
people to build walls were the Histri (an Illyrian tribe), who
put up defences on the hilltops where they settled. There are
136 such fortified towns in Istria. Many were abandoned, but
evidence in some shows continuous occupation from 1000 BC
up to the present day. The walls were reinforced in Roman
times and rebuilt in the late Middle Ages, then enlarged when
the towns came under Austrian or Venetian rule. Documents 3 Hum
written in the ancient Glagolitic script can be seen on a detour. This small village is protected
by an oval wall, reinforced
by the Venetians. The
4 Buzet Church of St Jerome has
An Illyrian fort and a Roman splendid 12th-century
fortification (Pinquentum), Buzet Byzantine frescoes.
belonged to the Venetians from 1420
onwards. They rebuilt the town wall
with a Large Gate and a Small Gate
(16th century). Today Buzet is known
for its truffles.




Istarske
Toplice




Račice
Livade
J

J

Pazin


5 Draguć
Medieval walls form the backs of the
houses in this village. Ramparts were built
by the Venetians after 1420. The 16th-
century Church of St Roch has a series of
frescoes, including a Journey of the Magi.
0 kilometres 3
0 miles 3 6 Motovun
This medieval town stands on a hill dominating the
Key valley. The Old Town is still encircled by an original
13th–14th-century wall. Later, a second wall was
Tour route
built around the suburbs. An internal gate, under a
Trail of the Glagolitics 15th-century tower, leads from the Lower Town to
Other roads the Upper Town.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  71



Tips for Walkers
Departure point: Boljun.
Distance: 77 km (48 miles)
one way. Stopping-off points:
Motovun Konoba Mondo,
(052) 681 791 (restaurant);
Hum Humska Konoba, (052) 660
005 (restau rant); Buzet Restaurant
Toklarija, (091) 926 67 69;
n Buzet Šetalište Vladimira
2 Roč Gortana 9, (052) 662 343.
The wall around Roč was built by the Patriarchate of Aquileia Motovun Trg Andrea Antico 1,
in the 14th century. Towers were added in the 1500s. Roč was (052) 681 726. Poreč Istria Tourist
an important centre for Glagolitic writing and in the 1200s the Board, Pionirska 1, Poreč, (052)
alphabet was carved on a wall in the Church of St Anthony Abbot. 452 797.
The Romanesque Church of St Roch contains two fresco cycles.












Ročko Polje
J
1 Boljun
The village still has some of its medieval walls, the
16th-century ramparts, a tower and a water
trough from 1697. The grain store, loggia and the
RomanesqueChurch of SS Cosmas and Damian
J Lupoglav are on the main road. Gothic paintings can be
seen in the 14th-century Church of St Peter.

Dolenja Vas J

Vranja
Opatija




Pazin


The Trail of Glagolitic Documents
The “Glagolitic Alley” (Aleja Glagoljaša) winds between Roč and
Hum. It is 7 km (4 miles) long and was created from 1977 to 1985
to commemorate this ancient Slavic script. Along the way are
11 significant Glagolitic documents recalling events and people who
contributed to the spread of the writing, invented in the 9th century
by the saints Cyril and Methodius to translate the scriptures into Glagolitic document in stone on
Slavonic in order to disseminate Christian liturgy among Slav peoples. the trail to Roč


For keys to symbols see back flap


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72  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

f Rijeka R Church of the Assumption
Crkva Uznesenja Blažene Djevice
Founded by the Liburnians and conquered by the Celts, Marije
this town became a Roman city called Tarsatica. Over the Pavla Rittera Vitezovića 3. Tel (051) 214
177. Open 8am–noon, 4–6pm.
centuries it frequently changed hands, and finally came
under the rule of the Habsburgs. In 1719, to develop its The Church of the Assumption,
once a cathedral, preserves little
maritime role, Ferdinand of Habsburg declared Rijeka a of its original 13th-century
free port. The city became part of the kingdom of Hungary aspect. It was renovated in
in 1870 and its economic importance continued to grow. the Baroque style in 1695
Together with shipyards and industry, Rijeka is one of and altered in 1726 with
Croatia’s main ports and a key rail and road junction. In Rococo details, and a
16th-century rose window
February and March each year, Rijeka hosts Croatia’s was inserted. Inside, the altars,
largest carnival celebrations. some paintings and the
chancel are from the Baroque
R Church of St Nicholas period. The bell tower bears
Pravoslavna crkva hram the date of its construction
svetog Nikolaja (1377); the upper part is in
Ignacija Henkea 2. Tel (051) 335 399. Gothic style.
Open 8am–1pm, 6–6:40pm daily.
This church, built by the Ortho- R St Vitus Cathedral
dox community in 1790, contains Katedrala sv. Vida
fine icons from Vojvodina, Serbia. Trg Grivica. Tel (051) 330 879.
Open 7am–noon, 4:30–7pm.
P City Tower The Church of St Vitus, patron
Gradski Toranj saint of the city, is now the
About halfway along the Korzo cathedral. This large Baroque
is the City Tower, first built in church was built between
the Middle Ages. It has been 1638 and 1742 by the Jesuits.
remodelled several times, Baroque altars and a
most significantly at the Gothic crucifix from
The Korzo, a pedestrian avenue with turn of the 18th century. the 13th century
19th-century buildings The clock dates from adorn the interior.
the 17th century
Exploring Rijeka and the dome was E Maritime and
Over recent decades, the city added in 1890. An Detail of the History Museum of
has expanded along the coast imposing building, it is Civic Tower the Croatian Littoral
and into the surrounding hills. decorated with coats of Pomorski i povijesni
However, its Central European arms, including those of the muzej Hrvatskog primorja
atmosphere is still preserved city and the Habsburgs, and Muzejski trg 1/1. Tel (051) 213 578.
in the majestic 19th-century busts of the emperors Leopold I Open 9am–4pm Mon, 9am–8pm
buildings along the Korzo and and Charles VI. Tue–Sat, 4–8pm Sun. &
the Riva, two broad avenues This is the oldest museum in
south of the Old Town (Stari P Town Hall Rijeka, founded in 1876, but
Grad), built on land reclaimed Municipij since 1955 housed in the
from the sea. The Korzo is the Trg Riječke rezolucije.
heart of the city, lined with cafés, In 1883, the 14th-century
bars, restaurants and shops. Augustinian monastery was
turned into the Town Hall. It takes
R Capuchin Church of up three sides of the square and
Our Lady of Lourdes is now used as offices.
Kapucinska Crkva Gospe Lurdske
Kapucinske stube 5. Tel (051) 335 233. T Roman Arch
Open 7am–noon, 4–8pm daily. Stara vrata
North of Žabica Square (Trg Trg Ivana Koblera.
Žabica), the church was built In an alley leading from the north
between 1904 and 1929 on the side of the square are the remains
orders of the abbot of the neigh- of a Roman arch, which was
bouring Capuchin monastery probably a gate to the city. It is a
on his return from a pilgrimage simple stone structure. Nearby,
to Lourdes, to mark the 50th excavations have unearthed the
anniversary of the Virgin’s foundations of a perimeter wall Gothic crucifix in the Cathedral of
miraculous apparition there. from the Roman period. St Vitus
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  73


Governor’s Palace built in 1896. VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
The history of navigation is told
through the collections of Practical Information
model ships, weapons and Map B2. * 130,000.
seafaring equipment from the n Korzo 14, (051) 335 882.
17th and 18th centuries. There _ Rijeka’s Summer Nights (Jun–
are also rich archaeological Jul), Rijeka Carnival (Feb–Mar).
collections from prehistory to ∑ visitRijeka.hr
the Middle Ages, displays of Transport
prints, furniture, paintings and k Krk, (051) 842 132.
an ethnographic collection. £ Krešimirova ulica, (060) 333
444. @ Trg Žabica 1, (060) 302
P Shrine of our Lady of Trsat Altar of Our Lady of Trsat, with a copy of 010. 4 Senjsko pristanište 3, (051)
Svetište Majke Božje Trsatske the painting of the Virgin 212 696; Adriatica d.o.o.: Verdijeva
Frankopanski trg. Tel (051) 452 900. 6, (051) 214 511; Jadrolinija, Riječki
Open daily. To compensate the local people lukobran bb, (051) 211 444.
On the opposite bank of the for this loss, in 1367 Pope
Rječina river, above the centre Urban V donated to them a
of Rijeka, is Trsat. At the top of Virgin with Child, painted by P Trsat Castle
the 561 steps from Tito Square St Luke, a copy of which now Trsatski kaštel
(Titov trg) is the Shrine of stands on the main altar. Partizanski put 9a. Tel (051) 217 714.
Our Lady of Trsat. The church The sanctuary was visited Open summer: 8am–8pm; winter:
and Franciscan monastery by soldiers and sailors who 9am–5pm. 8 -
were built in 1453 by Martin left votive gifts, now kept in The Sanctuary of Our Lady leads
Frankopan on the site of a a chapel next to the cloisters. to a castle built by the Romans
12th-century church. It was The church was remodelled in to defend Tarsatica, parts of
in this church, from 1291 to 1864 but retained the trium phal which still survive. In the 13th
1294, that parts of the Holy arch, the marble altar which century, Trsat was owned by the
House of Mary of Nazareth sits underneath the painting Frankopans, who built another
were preserved before being of the Virgin, and tombs of the castle on the same site. It offers
transferred to Loreto in Italy. Frankopan family. fine views over the Kvarner gulf.

Rijeka Town Centre
1 Capuchin Church of 7 St Vitus Cathedral
Our Lady of Lourdes 8 Maritime and History
2 Church of St Nicholas Museum of the
3 City Tower Croatian Littoral Park V
4 Town Hall Natural Nazora
History
Maritime and
5 Roman Arch History Museum of Museum
6 Church of the Assumption the Croatian Littoral ŠETALIŠTE VLADIMIRA NAZORA
Train Station DEŽMANA
300 m (330 yards) F. KURELCA KALVARIJA
Capuchin Church TRSAT
of Our DOLAC Roman ŽRTAVA FAŠIZMA
TRG Lady of Lourdes Arch
TRPIMIROVA
ŽABICA FRANA SUPILA
JADRANSKI Town
Bus STROSS-
Station TRG Hall St Vitus TITOV MAYEROVA
TRG
OLD TOWN Cathedral
TRG
REPUBLIKE KOVAČKA
HRVATSKE
City
Tower Church of
Ferry R I V A A D A M I Č E V A the Assumption
KORZO
Dock
Church of JELAČIČEV
St Nicholas TRG F I U M A R A
R I V A B O D U L I Market U S K O Č K A R I V A
I VA NA Z AJ CA
Croatian
National
Theatre
DEMETROVA
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
For keys to symbols see back flap
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74  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

g Cres VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

The narrow island of Cres is 65 km (40 miles) long. In the Practical Information
north, a colony of native griffon vultures, protected by law Map B3. * 3,200. 4 (051) 211
since 1986, nests on a plateau swept by the dry, cold bora 444. n Cres: Cons 10, (051) 571
535; Osor: (051) 231 547.
wind. The south is milder and olives and vines are grown. ∑ tzg-cres.hr
A single road travels from the north of Cres to the south of
Lošinj, linking the islands by a bridge. Tourism focuses on
just a few villages such as Cres and Osor. remains and some splendid
monuments, making it a centre
of great artistic interest.
The beautiful 15th-century
Cathedral of the Assumption
was completed in 1497 and is
built of honey-coloured stone.
The façade has an arched
tympanum above a doorway
with a relief of the Virgin Mary.
Inside the church there is a
painting of SS Nicholas and
Gaudentius on the altar.
The Cres Museum (Creski
muzej) occupies the Arsan Palace
Dry stone walls and olive groves overlooking the town of Cres and has stone inscriptions and
interesting finds from the Illyrian
Cres Town The walls and the three gates and Roman periods, and the
Cres nestles in a bay with stone arches give the early Middle Ages. The façade of
Porozina sheltered by the hill town a Venetian feel, and the the Bishop’s Palace (second half
Beli behind. The town Church of Our Lady of the of the 15th century) bears coats
became important Snow has paintings by artists of arms of the bishops and
when the bishopric from the Venetian school. nobles of the island and the
J and governor’s The 16th-cen tury Town Hall, interior is richly decorated.
seat were or Loggia, is now a fruit and Some walls, foundations and
transferred here vegetable market. mosaics are all that remain of
from Osor. The old port is a lively place, the Church of St Peter.
bustling with fishermen and
visitors. The Town Gate, a clock E Cres Museum
tower and several Renaissance Creski muzej
buildings face the port. Petris-Arsan Palace, Ribarska 7.
Cres Tel (051) 344 963. Open Apr–mid-Jun
Plavnik The Church of St Isidore & mid-Sep–mid-Oct: 9am–noon Tue–
(the patron saint), dates Sat; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 10am–1pm &
from the 12th century. 7–11pm Tue–Sun; mid-Oct–Mar: by
appt. Temporary exhibitions: hours
Osor vary, phone ahead. Closed Mon.
Lubenice Until the mid-15th century
CRES this was the main town on
the island, with a port and a
Vidovići bishopric. It later declined and
the capital was moved to Cres.
Today the entire town is a
museum, with Bronze Age
Štivan Belej
Key
Minor road
Scenic road
Nerezine
Osor
0 kilometres 8
0 miles 8
Door of the Gothic Church of Our Lady of
Pogana the Snow, Cres




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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  75
Osor
h Lošinj (Lussino) J
UNIJE
Nerezine
The island of Lošinj has a mild climate and
sub-tropical vegetation with maritime pines, Sv. Jakov
palms, oleanders and citrus trees. The main • Unije
town, Mali Lošinj, was founded in the Čunsi
12th century, when 12 Croat families landed LOŠINJ
here. The most famous beach is at Čikat bay,
southwest of Mali Lošinj. It is 30 km (19 miles) Mali Lošinj
long and a popular place for water sports.
Veli Lošinj
SUSAK
Environs Susak
The island of Susak is
renowned for its unusual 0 kilometres 6
geology: a 10-m (33-ft) layer 0 miles 6 Ilovik
of sand covering a calcareous ILOVIK
platform. Vines grow well on Key
this soil and all the islanders Minor road
have vineyards; their wealth is
measured by the number of Path
vines they own. The vines,
grown on terraces and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Interior of the church of St Anthony Abbot, protected by cane windbreaks,
Veli Lošinj are further sheltered by dry- Practical Information
stone walls which are typical Map B3. * 8,500.
Mali Lošinj of the islands and the coastline n Mali Lošinj: Priko 42, (051)
This pretty town, which, like Cres, of the upper Adriatic. The 231 547/051) 231 884; For Unije,
belonged to Venice for many picturesque, brightly coloured Susak and Ilovik, contact the
centuries, has many buildings women’s costumes are famous. Tourist Office at Mali Lošinj.
from the 18th and 19th centuries, They are made by the islanders ∑ visitlosinj.hr
when maritime activity was at during the winter months and Transport
its height. The oldest part of shown off at festivals. 4 Mali Lošinj, (051) 231 765.
the town lies around the 18th- The island of Ilovik, south
century Church of St Mary. of Lošinj, covers an area of
The Museum of Apoxyomenos nearly 6 sq km (2.3 sq miles) (mosaics, coins and other
houses the famous bronze statue and is home to about 170 objects) have been discovered
of Apoxyomenos, a Greek work people, most of whom live on Susak and Ilovik.
that dates back to the 2nd or in the village of Ilovik on the Unije is the largest of the
1st century BC. The fascinating northeast coast. Vines, olives, lesser islands. It is hilly with little
story of the statue’s discovery fruit and flowers grow well in vegetation and a steep rocky
and restora tion is told through this mild climate. Nearby is the coast on the eastern side, but
interactive exhibits. uninhabited island of Sv. Petar, there is a more accessible coast
where there are the ruins of on the western side. The village
Veli Lošinj a Venetian fortress and is built around the Church of
Quieter than Mali Lošinj, this is a a Benedictine Abbey with St Andrew. The islanders make
lovely town with villas hidden a church and monastery. their living from market
among the vegetation. The Prehistoric and Roman finds gardening or fishing.
church of St Anthony Abbot
(Sv. Antun Pustinjak) was built in
the 18th century on the site of
a smaller 15th-century church.
It has a rich store of paintings,
with examples by Bartolomeo
Vivarini (1430–90), Bernardo
Strozzi (1581–1644) and
Francesco Hayez (1791–1882).
The Baroque style is much in
evidence on the seven altars.
There is a splendid view of the
town and the coastline from
the 16th-century tower of the
Uskoks (see p83). Overlooking the fishing harbour of Mali Lošinj
For keys to symbols see back flap


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76  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


j Risnjak National Park: The Leska Trail

Nacionalni park Risnjak
The vast Gorski Kotor plateau, separating Croatia from Slovenia,
begins north of Rijeka. Part of the area has been declared a
national park in order to protect the forests and natural environ-
ment and the ecological balance of the area. The park, set up in
1953, first covered an area of 32 sq km (12 sq miles), but it is now
double that size, most of it made up of forests and grasslands
with many karst (limestone) features. The climatic conditions, Leska Crni Lug
caused by the territory’s particular exposure and altitude, are
very varied and about 30 different plant communities have been Park area
identified. The Leska trail was set up in 1993, and 23 information The Leska trail
panels inform visitors about various aspects of this area.
6 Feed Troughs
8 Silver Fir Forest 7 Chasm Feed troughs are set up
The silver fir, in great Cold air from the chasm and the damp here in winter to provide
demand for boat building, subsoil of this rocky fissure make the food for all the animals
has disappeared from many flora of great interest: plants which in the park.
woods in Croatia; here it normally only grow at the higher
mingles with beech trees. altitudes of the park can be found here.
Hranilište








Osmatračnica
Klada
Gmajna
Markov
Brlog
9 Observatory
From this viewing platform
the behaviour of animals
such as bears, foxes, lynxes,
martens and wild cats can be
observed in the woods. There
are also many birds, both non-
migratory and birds of passage.
Towards evening at certain
times of the year, eagles, hawks
and crows can also be seen.
Leska
0 Cultivating the Countryside
Only one house is inhabited in the village
of Leska. It is used from spring to autumn
by farmers, who come to grow potatoes,
peas and beans on specially built terraces.
w Tree Trunks
Fungi thrive in the
q Springs cracks of old tree
Water flows under the layers of trunks providing a
impervious rock and springs are source of food for
created where the water emerges. insects too.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  77


5 Beech and VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Fir Forests
The trail goes Practical Information
through woods Map B2. n Bijela Vodica 48, Crni
of fir and beech Lug, (051) 836 133, (051) 836 261.
trees; many of Open summer: 7am–10pm daily;
the trees are very winter: 7am–9pm daily. & 8
large. The under­ The Leska trail is 4.2 km (2.6 miles)
growth consists of long, easy and well signposted.
hazelnut, bilberry It takes about 2 hours to cover.
and elder bushes.
∑ risnjak.hr


4 Mountain Meadows
The areas which
were deforested for
agriculture or grazing
land for animals are now
mountain meadows. In
late spring they explode
with the varied colours
of heather, purple
moor grass, fescue
and other grasses.









0 metres 200
0 yards 200






1 Conservation of Trees
The protection of the older, larger
plant species was one of the reasons Crni Lug
the reserve was set up. Within the park
are examples of enormous ancient
beech, spruce and silver fir trees, and
also some rarer trees, such as the
mountain elm and maple.

2 Storm Damage
When strong winds blow down
old or sick trees, they are left
where they fall as they provide
suitable growing conditions for
microorganisms such as fungi.
Key 3 Karst Sinkholes
A karst sinkhole is a funnel­shaped hollow in the land.
Pedestrian trail This feature is caused by water erosion of the rock and
Other roads is characteristic of limestone areas.





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80  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

k Krk VISITORS’ CHECKLIST

This is the largest of the Adriatic islands, with an area of Practical Information
409 sq km (158 sq miles). A bridge links the island to the Map B3. * 17,860.
n Krk island: Trg sv. Kvirina 1, Krk,
mainland, built to provide good connections to the island’s (051) 221 359; Krk town: Vela
international airport. Along the eastern coast the island placa 1, (051) 221 414; Baška:
looks almost ghostly, its white rocks swept by the bora Kralja Zvonimira 114, (051) 856
wind. Inland and on the more protected western coast, 817; Njivice: Ribarska obala 10,
there is rich, lush vegetation. (051) 846 243. ∑ krk.hr
Transport
k (051) 842 040.
4 Valbiska: (051) 863 170;
Baška: (051) 856 821.

houses the Diocesan Museum.
This contains works from the
cathedral and other churches
on the island, including the
silver Frankopan altarpiece
depicting the Virgin Mary in
Glory and a polyptych (1350)
by Paolo Veneziano.
Crystal-clear waters surrounding the island of Krk Behind the cathedral stands
the Frankopan castle with four
Krk was first inhabited by the of light- coloured stone. Inside square towers from 1191, and a
Liburnians, followed by the are four paintings (1706) by round tower from the Venetian
Romans, who founded Curicum Cristoforo Tasca, and a fine period. Inside the walls are
(the present-day Krk) and wooden Baroque pulpit. churches dedicated to Our
Fulfinum. Traces of walls, baths The treasury is in the adjacent Lady of Health and St Francis.
and villas with floor mosaics Romanesque Church of The latter has an engraved
still remain. St Quirinus which wooden pulpit.
In the 6th century it came Rijeka
under Croatian rule and after Omišalj
the Frankish and Byzantine Omišalj lies on a headland near
occupation it became part of the site of Roman Fulfinum.
the possessions of Venice. It Omišalj The village (Castrum
was then granted to Dujam I, Musculum in the Middle
founder of the Frankopan Rudine Ages) was enclosed by
family, and from 1480 to 1797 walls, some of which
it was directly ruled by Venice. Njivice Klimno survive. There is a
Krk was a centre for Glagolitic Malinska square with a
script and the Baška Tablet, now Šilo 17th-century
in the Croatian Academy of Arts Venetian
and Sciences in Zagreb, was Porat
found on the island. Glavotok
Šepići
Krk Town KRK Vrbnik
The town of Krk developed in
the Middle Ages on the site of
the Roman town of Curicum. Košljun
The wall and three Venetian city Valbiska Krk Punat
gates are still visible: the City
Gate with a guard tower called
Kamplin, the Sea Gate (Pisana) Jurandvor
and the Upper Gate. Facing the Baška
main square are Renaissance-
era buildings and in the area Key Stara Baška
of the Roman baths is the Major road
Cathedral of Our Lady of the Minor road
Assumption, dating from the 0 kilometres 8
1100s but modified since. The Scenic route
three-aisle church has a façade 0 miles 8
Byzantine mosaic, Euphrasian Basilica, Poreč For keys to symbols see back flap



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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  81


loggia, the Church of St Helen l Bakar
with reproductions of Glagolitic Map B2. * 1,600. n Primorje 39,
script, and the Romanesque (051) 761 111. _ Margareta’s
church of Assumption of Summer, concerts, sports events and
St Mary (Uznesenja Marijina) shows in the čakavski dialect (Jun–
(13th century) with a dome, bell Aug). ∑ tz-bakar.hr
tower and 16th-century choir,
and a 15th-century triptych by The demolition of a refinery and
Jacobello del Fiore. a coke plant has brought visitors
back to this town, which was
once a popular destination for Internal courtyard in the Frankopan
people attracted to the land- castle, Kraljevica
scape of the area and curious
about the phenomena of the z Kraljevica
fresh-water springs. These Map B2. * 4,600. k Rijeka. 4 (051)
springs originate in underground 282 078. n Rovina bb, (051) 282 078.
sources and flow out to the coast. _ Shrovetide sezona, traditional
The Frankopan Castle and masked ball (carnival). ∑ tzg-
surrounding fishing village are kraljevica.hr
also worth a visit. The village
stands on the site of the Roman A well-known tourist resort on
Volcera. From the 13th century the mainland, Kraljevica is linked
until 1577 it belonged to the to the island of Krk by a long
Frankopans who, in the early bridge which also connects with
14th century, built a triangular- Rijeka airport (on Krk). In the Old
Glagolitic inscription and rose win dow, shaped castle. It is still well Town (Stari Grad) is a castle, built
Assumption of Mary, Omišalj preserved with high windows in the 16th century by the family
which were salvaged when it of the counts of Šubić-Zrinski.
Baška was transformed into a palace The castle walls also shelter the
Not to be confused with for the Šubić-Zrinski family who small Church of St Nicholas.
isolated Stara Baška (Old Baška) lived in the property after A village inhabited by families
Omišalj. Baška (New Baška) is the Frankopans. from the fortress of Hreljin
on the coast and is a popular The parish Church of developed around the castle.
tourist resort with a beautiful St Andrew the Apostle has a In the new district (Novi Grad),
beach, 2 km (1 mile) long, and painting of the Holy Trinity by on a small promontory above
clear sea. The Church of the Girolamo da Santacroce and a the sea, is a castle built by the
Holy Trinity (1723) stands in a Crucifix from the 14th century. Frankopan family in 1650 in the
small square; inside is a fine Situated close to the Church late-Renaissance style. It has a
Last Supper by Palma il Giovane. of St Andrew, the Turkish House, square ground-plan with four
Behind Baška, around a castle also known as “The House of round towers. It was turned into
destroyed in the 11th century, is Painters”, draws visitors who a magnificent palace in the
Stari grad, with the Romanesque come to admire its exotic, middle of the 18th century.
Church of St John, rebuilt in 1723. Ottoman-style architecture. In 1728, the Austrian emperor
In the Church of St Lucy in Bakar keeps its naval Charles VI began to create a
Jurandvor, a short distance from traditions alive thanks to the sizeable port here, at the end of
Baška, is a copy of the Baška prestigious Maritime Academy, a road that went from Karlovac
Tablet (the original is in Zagreb), which was founded in 1849. to the sea.
the oldest document in Croatia
written in Glagolitic script in 1100.
Košljun
Just offshore from Punat, this
small islet is best known for its
Franciscan monastery, where
for centuries the monks have
collected not just sacred objects,
but all manner of valuable and
curious items. Its zoological
collection is noted for its assem-
bly of seashells, and among the
library’s 30,000-odd titles is one
of only three surviving copies of
the atlas of Ptolemy, printed in
Venice in 1511. The Frankopan castle in Bakar, dominating the village
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40



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x Crikvenica
Map B2. * 5,800. k Rijeka, 16 km
(10 miles), island of Krk. @ Nike
Veljačića 3, (060) 300 100. n Trg
Stjepana Radića 1c, (051) 241 051.
_ Oily fish week (Jun); Trade fair of
Croatian products (Jul); Town festival
(Aug). ∑ rivieracrikvenica.com
A Roman staging post called Ad
Turres existed here at one time,
with a port for trading in timber.
In 1412 Nikola Frankopan
(whose name derives from the
noble Roman family of the
Frangipani) built a castle here. It The altar in the Church of SS Philip and James, Novi Vinodolski
was later donated to the Pauline
order, who set up a church, c Novi Vinodolski rebuilding the Church of
monastery and school. In the Map B3. * 4,000. k Rijeka, 28 km SS Philip and James (Sv. Filip
16th century a wall and a round (17 miles), island of Krk. £ Rijeka, i Jakov). He was buried here in
tower were built and, in 1659, 49 km (30 miles). n Ulica kralja 1499. The church, decorated in
the church was enlarged by Tomislava 6, (051) 791 171. the 17th century in the Baroque
adding a nave. The town, now _ Patron saints’ day, Philip style, has a magnificent altar
a popular tourist resort, takes and James (May); Novi Vinodolski from that period. The side altar
its name from the monastery. summer carnival (1st weekend Jul). has a Gothic Virgin Mary from
At the beginning of the ∑ tz-novi-vinodolski.hr the 15th century.
19th century, the Pauline order The 13th-century Frankopan
was dissolved and in 1893 the The Old Town, built on Castle has been restored and
ancient monastery was turned a hill overlooking the is now a museum, with
into the Hotel Kaštel (see p226). Vinodol valley, holds exhibits from the Roman
The town has a long pebble an important place in and medieval periods
beach and is one of the most Croatian history. On and a rich, varied
popular tourist resorts along 6 January 1288, in the collection of traditional
this stretch of coast. Thanks to castle built by the folk costumes.
its position, protected from the Frankopan dukes, the
winds by the Velebit mountains, Vinodol Codex, one of
it enjoys a mild climate with dry the oldest legislative v Senj
summers and warm winters. Croatian texts in the Map C3. * 8,000.
ancient Glagolitic Costume in the castle k Rijeka, 52 km (32 miles);
script, was produced. of Novi Vinodolski Island of Krk. @ Obala
The document is now kralja Zvonimira 8, (060)
in the National Library in 394 394. n Stara cesta 2, (053) 881
Zagreb. It was signed by 068. _ Feast of St George (23 Apr).
the representatives of nine ∑ tz-senj.hr
communes, and established
rules for the ownership and The cold wind known as the
use of local land. bora of Senj blows through
In 1988, the 700th anniversary a pass in the Velebit chain of
of the Vinodol Codex, a fountain mountains, making the town
created by the sculptor Dorijan the chilliest place in the
Sokolić was placed in the Adriatic. People have long
central square of Novi. The been aware of it, yet despite
fountain bears the names of this notoriety, Senj has always
the places which participated been inhabited, first by the
in drawing up the laws. Illyrians, then by the Romans
The town is also remembered who first created a port at Senia.
for the stratagem used by This became a bishopric in
Bishop Kristofor to save the 1169 and an important trading
troops defeated by the Turks: port for the transport of
the horses’ shoes were put on timber. After 1000 AD it
backwards so as to foil their was granted to the Templar
pursuers. Having reached the Knights. It then passed to the
Gate of the former Pauline monastery, safety of Vinodol Castle, the Frankopans, and finally came
now a hotel, in Crikvenica bishop gave thanks by under the direct rule of the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  83


The Uskoks
In 1526, shortly before the Battle of Mohács, numbers of Christians from the
hinterland fled to the safer coastal cities to escape the Turks. The refugees were
called “Uskoks” (“the ones who jumped in”) and their main desire was to fight
those who had taken their land; and they carried out a highly successful guerrilla
war. Initially they were organized by Venice around the fortress of Klis, from which
they attacked the Turk-occupied land. In 1537 the Turks conquered Klis. Some
Uskoks went to Primošten, but the main nucleus settled in Senj, under the rule of
the Habsburgs, who encouraged them to procure fast boats in order to plunder
the heavy Venetian ships. When Austria also slowed down operations against the
Turks, the Uskoks took up piracy and started sacking coastal towns. At the end of
the war between Venice and the Ottoman empire in 1617, the emperor was
forced to remove the Uskoks from the coast and they and their families were Relief in the Museum of
transported to the west of Zagreb, to the Žumberak mountains. the Uskoks, Senj

(Leonova kula), dedicated to
Pope Leo X, and the small,
pretty church of St Mary.
Environs
The small village of Jablanac
lies 37 km (23 miles) south of
Senj. This bustling place is a
good starting point for visiting
the Velebit massif.
Jablanac is a well-preserved
Nehaj Castle, dominating the town of Senj town and worth an unhurried
visit. It was a county seat and its
King of Hungary. As defence the Baroque period. It has representatives met in the med-
against the Turks, the tombstones with Renaissance ieval castle. The castle was built
Habsburgs established the reliefs and Baroque works, by the Ban (governor) Stjepan
first station of the Military including an altar decorated Šubić, as was the church and
Frontier (Vojna krajina) here. with four marble statues. its cemetery, both known from
This stronghold had a powerful A short distance from the documents from 1251. The castle
outer wall which is now only square is the Vukasović Palace is now in ruins. Nearby, the port
partly preserved. which houses the Civic of Stinica is a departure point
After the Battle of Mohács in Museum (Gradski muzej Senj), for ferries to the island of Rab.
1526, many Uskoks from Sinj and a museum of local history. The To the east of Jablanac is
Klis came to Senj, and were palace was once the residence the Sjeverni Velebit National
co-opted by the local Austrian of an Uskok captain. Flanking Park (Nacionalni park Sjeverni
governor in the fight against the the roads of the town and in Velebit) where there is an
Turks. Their presence is recorded the Small Square (Mala placa), interesting Botanical Garden
in Nehaj Castle, a fortress built also known as Campuzia, are (Botanički vrt) founded in
on a square plan, constructed in Renaissance buildings such as 1966 on the slopes of Mount
1553–8 by the Uskok captain the Town Hall with its splendid Zavižan at an altitude of
Ivan Lenković on a hill a short loggia. Nearby is the Leon tower 1,576 m (5,169 ft).
distance from the town. It was
positioned so as to sight
approaching ships. The well-laid-
out Museum of the Uskoks is on
the first floor of the fort, and has
an excellent view over the bay.
In the southern part of the
wide bay is the main square,
called Cilnica. Facing the
square is the Frankopan palace,
built in 1340 and altered in the
19th century. There are also
large salt warehouses, and,
further in, the Cathedral of
St Mary (Sv. Marija), built in the
13th century and altered in The picturesque harbour of Jablanac, south of Senj




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84  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

b Rab windows. In the courtyard
are some Roman and
The island of Rab lies parallel to the Velebit massif, creating medieval remains.
a channel which was much dreaded by sailors because it
forms a tunnel for the cold, dry bora wind which makes this R Monastery and Church
part of the coast rocky and barren. The opposite, western of St Andrew
Sv. Andrija
side of the island is protected from the wind and the climate Ulica Ivana Rabljanina, Rab.
is mild. Here the landscape is much greener and maquis This small Romanesque church
alternates with woods of pine, oak and holm oak. The Romans is annexed to a Benedictine
knew the island by the name of Arba, or Scadurna, and, after convent founded in 1118. The
its conquest, built a settlement on the site of the present-day bell tower, the oldest in Rab,
is from the following century.
town of Rab. This island is a popular holiday destination with The belfry has trefoil windows.
its sandy beaches, rocky coves and mild climate.
R Cathedral of St Mary
the Great
Rab Town Katedrala Sv. Marija Velika
The main town, Rab, Ulica Ivana Rabljanina, Rab.
which gives its name This splendid Romanesque
to the island, became building was consecrated by
a bishopric in the early Pope Alexander III in 1177. The
Christian period and façade has alternating layers
was inhabited by of pink and white stone and
Slavic people in the above the portal is a sculpted
6th century. After it Deposition by Petar Trogiranin
had been conquered The town of Rab with its four bell towers dating from 1514. The three-
by the Franks, it was aisle interior, divided by
administered by Venice and a the Old Town on the southern columns, has a beautiful
treaty of mutual defence was point of the peninsula were baptismal font made by the
agreed upon which lasted until destroyed, and in the 15th same sculptor in 1497, and a
1000 AD. Rab was at times century a wall was built which polyptych by Paolo Veneziano
under the rule of the Hungarian also enclosed the New Town, (1350) on the altar.
kings until 1409, when it called Varoš. Part of this wall In the presbytery is a
became Venetian territory. is well preserved, particularly splendid altar canopy with
Venice ruled the island the stretch facing the bay of marble columns and on
until 1797. St Euphemia. the main altar, surrounded
The town, famous for its by an ornate wooden choir,
four bell towers which make it P Loggia is a reliquary from the 12th
look like a ship with four masts, Srednja ulica, Rab. century with the remains of
has some lovely Venetian Where the main road, Srednja St Christopher.
architecture. Along the three ulica, widens out, there is a The 13th-century bell tower
main streets are fine aristocratic beautiful Venetian loggia, built stands 70 m (230 ft) away from
buildings with Romanesque in 1506 in Renaissance style, the cathedral. It is the tallest of
doorways, such as the Nimira, and a granary (fondak). To the all the bell towers on the island.
Tudorin, Kukulić, Galzigna and left is the Sea Gate (Morska
Cassio Palaces. The ancient vrata), a tower from the
medieval walls that encircled 14th century. Through the
gate is the town square.
P Prince’s Palace
Knežev dvor
Trg Municipium Arba, Rab. Tel (051)
724 064. Open call for opening times.
The port and the town square
are the heart of Rab, and this is
also where the Prince’s Palace
was built in the 13th century in
the Romanesque style. It was
later enlarged in the Gothic
style and then rebuilt in the
Renaissance style. It has
Sea Gate, one of the ways into the Venetian Gothic windows and The bell tower of the Cathedral of St Mary
town of Rab Renaissance mullioned the Great
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40


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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  85


R Chapel of St Anthony VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
of Padua
Sv. Antun Practical Information
Ulica ribara, Rab. Road Map B3. * 9,000.
The small church of St Anthony, n Trg Municipium Arba 8, Rab
dating from 1675, is a good town, (051) 724 064. _ musical
example of religious Baroque evenings, Church of the Holy
architecture. Inside is a marble Cross (Jun–Sep); Tournament of
inlaid altar and a 17th-century Rab (25–27 Jul). ∑ rab-visit.com
painting from the Venetian school. Transport
4 from Rijeka, Stinica, Pag,
R Franciscan Convent of Valbiska (Krk); (051) 724 122.
St Anthony Abbot @ Palit, (060) 306 080.
Sv. Antun Opat
Rab. Tel (051) 724 064. Open call for The altar in the Renaissance Church of
opening times. St Justine in Rab on display are paintings and
The Church and Convent of panels, including a polyptych
St Anthony Abbot stand behind R Convent and Church of by Paolo Veneziano (1350),
the cathedral at the end of the St Justine Gospels and illuminated books
promontory. This convent, built Sv. Justine in Glagolitic script.
for a closed order of nuns, was Gornja ulica, Rab. Tel (051) 724 064.
founded in 1497 by the noble- Open call for opening times. Kampor
woman Magdalena Budrišić. The convent and church were Kampor lies at the end of a long
consecrated in 1578, and were bay (Kamporska Draga) and has
R Church of St Francis intended for nuns from non- preserved its stone houses and
Sv. Frane noble families. The bell tower terraces of olives and vines.
Park Komrčar, Rab. with its onion dome dates from Many holiday houses have
The church dates from 1491 and 1672. The church now houses a sprung up around the village.
stands to the north of the town Museum of Holy Art, with the The Franciscan Convent of St
in Komrčar Park. It is a blend of crucifix of King Koloman from Euphemia, with a small adjacent
Gothic and Renaissance and has 1112, and the reliquary of Romanesque church, is near the
an original façade with three St Christopher (12th century), Church of St Bernard. The church
sculpted shells. protector of the town. Also contains two panels by Barto-
lomeo and Antonio Vivarini, a
Byzantine panel (14th century)
and other works. In the cloister
SV. GRGUR
there are various tombs and the
sarcophagus of Magdalena
Budrišić, the noblewoman who
GOLI
founded the convent of
Goli St Anthony Abbot in Rab.
Lopar
Lopar
The village of Lopar is at the
0 kilometres 5 end of a rocky peninsula. It is a
0 miles 5 popular spot thanks to the sandy
beaches fringed by pinewoods
Supetarska Draga and the leisure facilities on offer
Kampor (tennis, football and mini-golf).
R AB
J

Rab
Barbat na Rabu

Key
Pudarica
Major road DOLIN
Minor road Mišnjak
Polyptych by the Vivarini, Church of
St Bernard, Kampor
For keys to symbols see back flap Spectacular, well-preserved walls of Pula’s amphitheatre


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88  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

n Plitvice Lakes National Park
Nacionalni park Plitvička jezera
The Plitvice Lakes National Park, set in the heart of Croatia,
was founded in 1949. This area of 300 sq km (115 sq miles),
covered in lakes and forest, has been part of the UNESCO
World Heritage list since 1979. It is particularly known for its
spectacular waterfalls. There are 16 lakes within the park and
visitors can move around by following the paths along the
shores or by using footbridges. Shuttle buses take people
to the starting points of the trails and to the hotels in the
park. The largest lake can be toured by electric boat. There
are no towns or villages in the reserve, only hotels. A hut by the lake shore

Otočac



Ciginovac
Prošćansko
jezero


Okrugljak
Labudovac Stubica
Footbridges
Numerous footbridges and rowing
boats enable visitors to get from one
shore of a lake to another and are a
lovely way to access and explore the Galovac
fir, pine and beech forests.




KEY
Gradinsko
jezero
1 Dense forests alongside the Isola
waters are home to some of the
largest European species of animal,
including wolves, lynxes, foxes,
wild boar, roebucks, wild cats, otters
and badgers. Prijeka Gliborita
draga
2 The bird life is extremely varied: Kosa
160 species have been recorded,
including the eagle, marsh harrier,
peregrine falcon, hoopoe, kingfisher,
heron, little owl, and tawny owl.
3 Along the banks of the
River Korana, into which the lakes
drain, are a few shepherds’ huts and Velika
Poljana
several sawmills, which are run on
hydraulic power. The river flows
between steep cliffs in a spectacular
natural landscape. Entrance 2 Zadar
4 The park vehicles, shuttle
buses, take visitors around the area 0 metres 500
on special routes.
0 yards 500
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp226–8 and pp238–40

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ISTRIA AND THE K V ARNER AREA  89


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map C3.
n (053) 751 014, 751 015.
Open 8am–6pm daily. & 8
7 limited access.
∑ np-plitvicka-jezera.hr


Flora
The park flora is very varied, from waterlilies on the lakes to forests
of gigantic trees. There is also a rich undergrowth of shrubs, a
source of food for wildlife.

Otočac











Plitvice



Draga
Matijaševac
Karlovac
Milanovac
Jezero
Kozjak
Gavanovac
Karlovac
Isola
Medvedak Entrance 1












Waterfalls
Key It is possible to follow
Major road signposted routes, which
lead to viewpoints for
Route for park vehicles
watching the rushing
Footpath waters as they cascade
Boat route from the lake above.

For keys to symbols see back flap

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CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA  91

DALMATIA


Dalmatia is the most visited region of Croatia. Although tourism collapsed in
the 1990s because of the war, visitors have long since returned to the rocky
coastline and sandy beaches, the deserted islands and the splendid cities of
this Adriatic region. As a consequence of relationships and trade with Italy, an
Adriatic culture developed here which has given Dalmatia an Italianate feel.

In the 1st century BC, after two centuries cities to Venice. In the 16th century, there
of war, the Romans managed to conquer followed a second flowering of the arts,
the Dalmatian and Liburnian tribes and and the sculptors, architects, painters,
integrate them into their system. For writers and scholars of this period laid the
over three centuries the region enjoyed foundations for the future development
a period of prosperity which was of Croatian culture, art and literature.
eventually brought to an end by the In late spring, when the Jadranska
arrival of peoples from Asia, including magistrala coast road has yet to be
the Slavs in the 7th century. invaded by heavy summer traffic, this
In 915, after a long period of wars and must be one of the loveliest parts
unrest, the first Croatian kings founded of Europe. From Karlobag the road
a new state, blessed by papal authority. winds along the edge of the Velebit
New public and religious buildings, walls mountain chain and the Dalmatian
and town halls were built, the arts began and the Biokovo plateaux. Seawards
to flourish, and trading with the Italian is the long, lunar-surfaced island of
coast increased. This was a period of Pag and further along are the islands
great cultural vitality, which survived around Zadar, those around Split, and
the collapse of the Croatian state and its finally the lovely island of Mljet, set
integration into the Kingdom of Hungary in an azure sea. Behind are hillsides
in the 12th century. In 1409, after a long covered in vineyards and maquis
series of conflicts, the Hungarian king vegetation, dominated by the
sold the islands and many of the coastal bright yellow flowers of broom.

























A secluded beach on the island of Mljet
Walls of the Old Town, Dubrovnik – the “pearl of the Adriatic”



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92  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Dalmatia

To the north is Zadar, with its exceptional monuments, and
the islands of the Zadar archipelago, the southern part of
which is designated the Kornati National Park. The road travels
on to Šibenik, with its perfectly preserved Old Town centre and
splendid cathedral, and Trogir, an architectural jewel. The ruins
of the Roman town of Salona are just outside the city of Split,
which developed within the Palace of Emperor Diocletian. The
coastal road turns inland to cross the delta of the Neretva and
reaches Ston, a point of access to the peninsula of Pelješac.
Finally, on a rocky spur stands the medieval city of Dubrovnik,
now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Karlovac
Otočac Bell tower of the Cathedral, Zadar
Senj Udbina
Rijeka Karlobag Gospić
Novalja
Pag
Pag V e l e b i t
PAG Vaganski Vrh
1757m Gračac
PAKLENICA
Silba Olib NATIONAL PARK Sučevići
Jasenice
Privlaka Ljubač Obrovac
Molat NIN Posedarje ZADARSKA
Sestrunj
ZADAR KNIN Troglav
Ancona Benkovac Kistanje Biskupija 1913m
KRKA NATIONAL PARK Vrlika
Ugljan Bibinje
Jezero
Dugi Otok Pašman Biograd Perućko
na Moru DRNIŠ Hrvace
ZADAR ARCHIPELAGO
Skradin Svi laja
Murter ŠIBENSKO-KNINSKA Livno
SINJ
Vodice
Kornat
Key ŠIBENIK Trilj
Žirje
Motorway KLIS
TROGIR SALONA
KORNATI NATIONAL PARK
Major road PRIMOŠTEN Imotski Mostar
Minor road Cista Provo
Ancona MARINA Čiovo SPLIT OMIŠ
Motorway under construction
Supetar Brač Biokovo
Main railway
ŠOLTA Sumartin MAKARSKA
County border
Šolta BRAČ
International border SPLITSKO - DALMATINSKA Vrgorac
Ferry route Živogošće Zaostrog
Ancona Stari Grad NARONA
Summit GRADAC
Hvar Sućuraj Metković
Hvar HVAR Ploče
Trpanj OPUZEN
Orebić
Getting Around VIS Korčula Korčula NEUM
Pescara Vis Blato PELJEŠAC
The most comfortable way to visit Dalmatia Vela BADIJA PENINSULA
is by car, which allows you to stop when and Svetac Biševo Luka KORČULA Ston Slano
where you like. Traffic is always heavier during DUBROVAČKO-NERETVANSKA Trsteno
the summer holiday months. Cities and towns Mljet
are not directly connected by railway, but buses LASTOVO MLJET ELAPHITE DUBROVNIK
are frequent and run between almost all the Sušac Lastovo NATIONAL PARK ISLANDS CAVTAT
towns. The main coastal towns and the more Podgorica
important islands are linked by frequent ferry Bari KONAVLE
connections (see pp278–9). Yachts can be hired Molunat
for cruising along the coast (see p258).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45
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D ALM A TIA  93


HUNGARY
SLOVENIA
• ZAGREB
BOSNIA-
HERZEGOVINA
ADRIATIC
SEA
Locator Map


The imposing 15th-century Minčeta Tower in Dubrovnik
Sights at a Glance
1 Zadar pp94–7 q Sinj g Opuzen
Karlovac
Otočac
Senj Udbina 2 Zadar Archipelago w Klis h Narona
Rijeka Karlobag Gospić pp98–9 e Primošten j Neum
Novalja 3 Kornati National Park r Marina k Pelješac Peninsula
Pag pp100–1 t Trogir pp114–17 l Korčula pp138–40
Pag V e l e b i t
PAG Vaganski Vrh 4 Nin y Salona pp118–19 z Badija
1757m Gračac 5 Paklenica National u Split pp120–25 x Lastovo
PAKLENICA
Silba Olib NATIONAL PARK Sučevići Park i Šolta c Mljet National Park pp142–2
Jasenice 6 Pag pp104–5 o Brač v Dubrovnik pp146–53
Privlaka Ljubač Obrovac 7 Krka National Park p Vis pp128–9 b Elaphite Islands
Molat NIN Posedarje ZADARSKA pp106–7 a Hvar pp130–33 n Cavtat
Sestrunj 8 Šibenik pp108–11 s Omiš m Konavle
ZADAR KNIN Troglav 9 Drniš d Makarska
Ancona Benkovac Kistanje Biskupija 1913m 0 Knin f Gradac
KRKA NATIONAL PARK Vrlika
Ugljan Bibinje
Jezero
Dugi Otok Pašman Biograd Perućko
na Moru DRNIŠ Hrvace
ZADAR ARCHIPELAGO
Skradin Svi laja
Murter ŠIBENSKO-KNINSKA Livno
SINJ
Vodice
Kornat
ŠIBENIK Trilj
Žirje
KLIS
TROGIR SALONA
KORNATI NATIONAL PARK
PRIMOŠTEN Imotski Mostar
Ancona MARINA Čiovo SPLIT OMIŠ Cista Provo
Supetar Brač Biokovo
ŠOLTA Sumartin MAKARSKA
Šolta BRAČ
SPLITSKO - DALMATINSKA Vrgorac Rocky offshore islands seen from Velebit
Ancona Stari Grad Živogošće Zaostrog GRADAC NARONA
Hvar Sućuraj Metković 0 kilometres 30
Hvar HVAR Ploče
Trpanj OPUZEN 0 miles 30
VIS Orebić
Korčula Korčula NEUM
Pescara Vis Blato PELJEŠAC
Svetac Vela KORČULA BADIJA PENINSULA Ston Slano
Biševo Luka DUBROVAČKO-NERETVANSKA Trsteno
Mljet
LASTOVO MLJET ELAPHITE DUBROVNIK
Sušac Lastovo NATIONAL PARK ISLANDS CAVTAT
Podgorica
Bari KONAVLE
Molunat
For keys to symbols see back flap
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1 Zadar

Originally Illyrians inhabited this narrow peninsula,
but its present layout dates back to Roman rule, when
the straight roads and forum were built. It became an
important municipium, and a port for the trading of timber
and wine. In the Middle Ages it was the main base for the
Byzantine fleet. Venice and the king of Hungary fought
over Zadar in the 12th–13th centuries but in 1409, King
Ladislaus of Hungary sold his Dalmatian islands and cities
to Venice for 100,000 ducats. Zadar became Zara and
enjoyed a spell of prosperity; churches and palaces were
built. After World War I, Zadar was ceded to Italy by the
Treaty of Rapallo, but many Italians left after the forming
of Yugoslavia in 1947. Zadar was repeatedly bombed Roman arch forming the Sea Gate
during World War II and suffered considerable damage.
P Sea Gate
Vrata sv. Krševana
R Church of St Simeon This complex construction is the
Sv. Šime result of rebuilding work carried
Trg Petra Zoranića 7. Tel (023) 211 out by Michele Sanmicheli
705. Open 8:30am–noon Mon–Sat. in 1573 on a Roman arch
Originally constructed in dedicated to the Sergi family.
Romanesque style, the church On the seaward side is the lion
was rebuilt after 1632 to house of St Mark and a memorial stone
the remains of the saint, which recalling the Battle of Lepanto
are kept in a silver reliquary. (1571). On the inner side of the
This impressive work, nearly 2m gate is a stone commemorating
(6 ft) long, was made between Pope Alexander III’s visit in 1177.
1377 and 1380 by Francesco da
Milano and bears reliefs showing R Church of St Chrysogonus
scenes of St Simeon’s life. Sv. Krševan
The medieval tower, Bablja Kula, part of Poljana pape Aleksandra III.
the ancient wall R Museum of Ancient Glass Closed for restoration.
Muzej antičkog stakla Prior to AD 1000 a church
P Land Gate and Walls Poljana Zemaljskog odbora 1. and monastery were built by
Kopnena vrata Tel (023) 363 831. Open summer: Benedictines on the site of
The Land Gate was built in 1543 9am–9pm daily; winter: 9am–4pm the Roman market. While the
by the great Veronese architect Mon–Fri. & ∑ mas-zadar.hr church, rebuilt in 1175, has
Michele Sanmicheli as the Housed in the restored survived with few alterations,
entrance to the city. The gate Cosmacendi Palace, this the monastery was destroyed
has a large central aperture and museum displays a large in World War II. At the height of
two smaller openings at the number of ancient Roman the monastery’s splendour it
sides, divided by four white glass objects found on possessed a rich library and a
stone pilasters supporting four archaeological sites in Zadar scriptorium, famous for its
half-columns. and its surroundings. transcribed and illuminated
Above the main gate is a relief works. The three-aisle church,
of St Chrysogonus on horseback P People’s Square
and the lion of St Mark, symbol Narodni trg
of Venetian rule. Beyond the The Town Hall, which was built
gate are a few remains of the in 1934, faces the square, as
ancient walls, the former does the Renaissance City
Venetian arsenal, and Liberation Loggia (Gradska loža) built by
Square (Zoranićev trg or Trg Michele Sanmicheli in 1565 as
Petra Zoranića) with a Roman the city courts. It is now used
column in the centre. for exhibitions.
On one side of the square Nearby, the 16th-century
stands the medieval tower of Town Guard Palace houses
Bablja kula. At the base are five the Ethnographic Museum,
fountains (Trg pet bunara), with collections of costumes
which once supplied water and objects from the
to the city of Zadar. entire county. Church of St Chrysogonus
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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ZAD AR  95


divided by columns (salvaged VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
from a previous building),
has a simple Romanesque Practical Information
appearance, except for the Map C4. * 92,000. n City: IlIje
Baroque main altar with statues Smiljanića 5, (023) 212 222; Mihe
of Zadar’s four patron saints: Klaića 1, (023) 316 166. Regional:
Chrysogonus, Zoilus, Simeon Sv. Leopolda Mandića 1, (023)
and Anastasia. The apse is the 315 316. _ Musical evenings
best-preserved part, with some at St Donat (Jul & Aug), Summer
13th-century frescoes and a theatre. ∑ visitzadar.net
Romanesque crucifix on Transport
the altar. k Zemunik 8 km (5 miles),
(023) 205 800. £ (023) 212 555.
E Archaeological Museum @ A Starčevića 6, (060) 305 305.
Arheološki muzej Renaissance façade of the Church of 4 Jadrolinija: (023) 254 800.
Trg opatice Čike 1. Tel (023) 250 516. St Mary
Open Jan–Mar: 9am–2pm Mon–Sat;
Apr, May & Oct: 9am–3pm Mon–Sat; R Church of St Mary and The church, built in 1066, has
Jun–Sep: 9am–9pm daily; Nov & Dec: Museum of Sacred Art undergone various alterations
9am–2pm Mon–Sat. Sv. Marija i Zlato i srebro Zadra and now has a Renaissance
& 8 by appt. = Trg opatice Čike 1. Tel (023) façade. The three-aisle
This museum is housed in a 250 496. Open summer: interior has a large
building near the old Roman 10am–1pm, 6–8pm Mon– women’s gallery; the
Forum. Its collection contains Sat, 10am–noon Sun; winter: stucco work is from 1744.
objects that date from pre - 10am–12.30pm, 5–6.30pm The former monastery
his tory all the way to recent Mon–Sat. & 8 ^ = next door is now the
times, and that come from the On one side of the Museum of Sacred Art:
entire Zadar area and the square called Poljana Sculpture, Museum on the ground floor are
islands. Of particular interest is pape Ivana Pavla II of Sacred Art gold pieces; on the
glass from the Roman period, stands a tall, Romanesque bell upper floor are paintings and
and the early Christian and tower, built for King Koloman in statues, including a fine polyptych
medieval liturgical objects. 1105, and the Church of St Mary. by Vittore Carpaccio (1487).

Zadar Town Centre
1 Land Gate and Walls
2 Church of St Simeon
3 Museum of Ancient Glass ISTARSKA OBALA
4 People’s Square ISTARSKA OBALA
TRG TRI
5 Sea Gate Sea Organ & BUNARA
6 Church of St Chrysogonus Greeting to the Sun
7 Archaeological Museum ŠIROKA MATE KARAMANA Sea Gate
Franciscan Church of
8 Church of St Mary and Monastery St Elijah Cathedral of
St Anastasia
Museum of Sacred Art ALEKSANDRA III Church of
9 Forum Church of St Chrysogonus
St Donat
0 Church of St Donat p97 OBALA KRALJA Archaeological bridge
Foot-
Museum
FORUM
q Cathedral of St Anastasia Church of St Mary Market
w Sea Organ and Greeting and Museum
JURJA BARAKOVIČA
to the Sun of Sacred Art DALMATINSKOG SABORA PEOPLE’S
SQUARE
Loggia Museum of
Ancient Glass
Church of
St Michael
ELIZABETE KOTROMANIČ
LIBURNSKA OBALA
KLAIĆA ŠPIRE BRUSINE Church of OBALA KRALJA
St Simeon
TOMISLAVA
Captain’s
Tower
STOMORICA
PE TR A K R E ŠI M IRA I V
Land Gate TRG PET
Z a d a r C h a n n e l
Train Station
and Walls BUNARA 1 km (0.6 miles)
Bus Station
1 km (0.6 miles)
Vladimir
Nazor Park
0 metres 300
0 yards 300
For keys to symbols see back flap
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96  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


P Forum R Cathedral of St Anastasia
The main square of the ancient Katedrala sv. Stošije
Roman city of Jadera was built Forum. Tel (023) 251 708.
between the 1st century BC Open 8am–noon, 5–7pm daily.
and the 3rd century. The forum, The magnificent Cathedral of
90 m (295 ft) long and 45 m St Anastasia also stands on
(147 ft) wide, was bordered on the site of the Forum. It was
three sides by porticoes with founded by the Byzan tines in
marble columns. In the present the 9th century and rebuilt in
square, Poljana pape Ivana Pavla the Romanesque style in the
II, are the foundations of public 12–13th centuries. It has a
buildings, including a meeting rectangular ground-plan with
hall, some of the original paving, a large semicircular apse. The
several tabernae (rectangular- harmonious façade with three
shaped trading areas) and a doors, completed in 1324, is
monumental pillar, used in divided in half horizontally with
the Middle Ages as a “pillar the upper part characterized by The right-hand altar inside the Cathedral
of shame”. arches and columns and two of St Anastasia
splendid rose windows. The
main window is Romanesque right-hand nave is an imposing
and the other is Gothic. Baroque altar dedicated to the
The three-aisle interior is Holy Sacrament; just beyond is
divided by two rows of columns the hexagonal baptistry.
and pilasters which support the
high arcades. At the sides of the P Sea Organ and Greeting
raised pres bytery are engraved to the Sun
wooden choir stalls, the work of Designed by architect Nikola
the Venetian Matteo Moronzoni Basic, this musical instrument
(early 15th century). The ciborium is built into the quayside. Under
with four Corinthian columns is white stone steps are a set of
decorated with different motifs pipes which produce musical
(1332). Underneath is a small chords naturally as waves push
sarcophagus containing the air up through the pipes. Next
remains of St Anastasia, dating to it is another installation by
from the 9th century. the same architect called
The altars are mostly Baroque; Greeting to the Sun, consisting
Romanesque façade of the Cathedral on one there is a lovely painting of 300 glass plates that produce
of St Anastasia by Palma il Giovane. In the interesting light effects.

Plan of the Cathedral of St Anastasia

















Key
1 Altar of the Holy Sacrament 6 Main altar and ciborium
2 Baptistry 7 Bishop’s chair
3 Roman pilaster 8 Chapel of St Anastasia
4 Sacristy 9 Souls of Purgatory altar 0 metres 15
5 Choir stalls 0 Bell tower 0 yards 15
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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ZAD AR  97

Zadar: Church of St Donat VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Sv. Donat
Practical Information
Forum. n (023) 250 516.
The Church of the Holy Trinity, which later took the name Open Apr, May & Oct: 9am–5pm
of its founder Bishop Donat, is one of the finest examples of daily; Jun–Sep: 9am–9pm daily;
Byzantine architecture in Dalmatia. It was built in the early Nov–Mar: by appt. &
9th century on the paving stones of the former Roman Forum
and has a circular ground-plan with three circular apses.
Inside is a women’s gallery which goes all the way around the
church and creates an upper storey. St Donat has not been
used as a church since 1797, but because of the good
acoustics, concerts are often held here.
Dome
The cylindrical, conical
dome rises in the centre
of the church to a height
of 27 m (88 ft).
Exterior
The church is built of honey-
coloured Dalmatian stone, much
of which came from the old
Roman Forum.

Each of the three
apses has blind
arches. At one time
the altar was situated
in the central apse.

























The Women’s Gallery The internal walls are
The interior of the church has completely bare. Probably the
a matroneum, or women’s original decorations, frescoes
gallery, supported by six or mosaics, have been lost.
pilasters and two Roman Roman Fragments
columns which border the Stones from the Roman Forum were used for
circular nave and divide the paving; other Roman material is visible in
the structure into two floors. the walls, entrance and gallery.




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98  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

2 Zadar Archipelago Venetian fleet. One side ends
in a sheer cliff and the other in
The Zadar Archipelago is made up of more than 300 islands thick pine woods. This area is
surrounded by crystal-clear waters. The larger islands being reforested after a
are covered in Mediterranean scrub and olive trees. The disastrous fire in 1995. The
archipelago is what remains of a mountain chain which once southern part of the island has
been designated the Telašćica
ran parallel to the Velebit mountains, but which is now almost Nature Park (see p100).
submerged. Only about a dozen of the islands are inhabited,
and the small communities live by fishing, farming and rearing Ugljan
animals. There are a few hotels on the larger islands closer to This lush, green island is 22 km
Zadar, and private accommodation can be found on all the (13 miles) long and covers an
area of 50 sq km (19 sq miles).
others. Daily ferry services link Zadar with the main islands.
It has a population of 7,600 and
the small villages lie along the
eastern coast of the island. In
desolate but beaches and bays the main village, Ugljan, is
punctuate the eastern coast. the Franciscan monastery of
Proximity to Zadar means St Jerome, built in the 15th
that since Roman times it has century. It has a pretty cloister
been a popular place for the and the library contains
city nobles to build holiday numerous works written in
villas. In the Renaissance period Glagolitic script.
more summer residences were A more newly built village
built here, particularly in Sali. is Preko, where the wealthier
This is the largest town and citizens of Zadar own villas.
port on the island and there are There are also rooms in private
some houses in the flamboyant houses available for renting.
Gothic style. The Renaissance The village is dominated by
Church of St Mary has some the large Venetian fortress of
Dugi Otok, the largest island in the paintings from the same St Michael which stands on a
Zadar archipelago period by Juraj Čulinović. hill 265 m (869 ft) high. A bridge
The fishing village of links the island to Pašman.
Dugi Otok Božava, at the island’s
Covering an area of 124 sq km northernmost point,
(48 sq miles), this is the largest is also a popular
island in the archipelago. The yacht marina. It
inhabitants live in about ten has a small church,
villages. Fishing and farming dedicated to
takes place in the northern part St Nicholas, which
of the island and on the flatter dates from the 10th
areas of the island, while the century. Inside the
southern, hillier terrain is given church a sculpture
over to sheep farming. The depicts Arab saints.
western coast is steep and The long bay of
Telašćica, to the
south, is a natural
harbour and
OLIB was once
used by the View from the fortress of St Michael, Preko


SESTRUNJE
SILBA
IST MOLAT Brgulje Sestrunj
Zapuntel Molat
ŠKARDA Ist
PREMUDA
J
Premuda Božava Dragove
Veli Rat
0 kilometres 10
0 miles 10 DUGI OTOK
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp228–30 and pp240–45


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