(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Croatia

SLA VONIA AND BAR ANJA  199

Waterfowl
Ponds and lakes provide VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
an ideal habitat for the
wading birds and swans Practical Information
which are present all Map F–G2. n Ritska bb, Bilje,
year round. Kopačevo, (031) 445 445.
Open Nov–Mar: 8am–4pm
daily; Apr–Oct: 9am–5pm daily.
& 8 Information on boat
rides and bike hire available
at the entrance.
Deer and Roe Deer in their ∑ pp-kopacki-rit.hr
hundreds congregate in the
flooded areas of the park,
for brief periods of the year.







Danube
Great Crested Grebe
The mating display of
these birds is one of the
more spectacular sights
in the park.
Kopačko
Lake
Ducks and Geese
The mallard duck is a
much photo graphed
Bijelo bird for its bright
Lake
plumage. There are also
pochards, shovelers
and tufted ducks.
Hulovski Canal













Danube
Wild Boar
Drava During the spring it is
sometimes possible to see
whole families of this shy
animal in the oak woods.

Cormorant
Usually found in colonies, cormorants Key
build their nests in trees. Here,
thousands of their nests can be seen Major road
in the tall willow and poplar trees. Scenic road
For keys to symbols see back flap


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200  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


such as tug-of-war, boulder- park and a moat surrounds
throwing, bare-back riding the medieval walls, the tower,
and other strenuous challenges the new building and the
and competitions. church. A town developed
A lively popular festival has around the fort, and with it
developed around the event; the splendid Baroque church
musicians perform in the streets of the Immaculate Conception
and there are displays of old (Začeće Marijino) of 1722.
crafts. Local handicrafts can be
bought and regional food can E Valpovo Museum
be sampled. Dvorac Prandau-Normann. Tel (031)
650 639. Open 4–7pm (8pm in
summer) Mon & Thu, 10am–noon
s Valpovo Tue, Wed & Fri, 3–6pm Sat.
Map F2. * 8,000. k Osijek, 30 km
Thermal spa in the village of Bizovac
(18 miles). @ (060) 390 060. n Trg
a Bizovac kralja Tomislava 2, (031) 650 306.
_ Summer in Valpovo: dancing, folk
Map F2. * 2,300. k Osijek, 20 km music and theatrical shows (summer).
(12 miles). £ from Osijek. @ from ∑ tz-valpovo.hr
Osijek. n Regional: Kapucinska 40,
Osijek, (031) 214 852. The centre of Valpovo stands
on the remains of the fort of
During the search for oil in the Lovallia, one of many fortified
middle of the 20th century, a settlements which the Romans
hot water spring was discovered established on the Pannonian
here. The water of the spring plain. In the Middle Ages, a castle Majláth, a mock-medieval manor in the
reaches a temperature of 90°C was erected to keep a look-out town of Donji Miholjac
(194°F) and is rich in minerals. A over the nearby Drava river. The
few years later, the thermal spa castle was later granted to the d Donji Miholjac
of Bizovačke toplice was built. Morović, Gorjanski and Norman Map F2. * 6,700. k Osijek, 45 km
The spa proved to be extremely families. After the Turkish (28 miles). £ Valpovo, 20 km (12 miles);
successful and it is now an conquest in 1526, the castle Našice, 30 km (18 miles). @ (060) 357
enormous complex including was used as a garrison. 060. n Trg Ante Starčevića 2, (031)
a hotel, two large swimming In 1687, after the expulsion 633 103. _ Miholjačko sijelo:
pools, and cabins for thermal of the Turks, the area was festival in costume (summer).
baths. Every day hundreds of handed over to the Hilleprand ∑ tz-donjimiholjac.hr
guests come here to undergo Prandau family. At the
thermal treatments which are beginning of the 19th century On the banks of the Drava river,
helpful in treating rheumatic the castle was destroyed by this small town lies on the
and respiratory illnesses, and fire and was then extensively Hungarian border. All traces
in healing injuries. rebuilt as a larger building, of the past have been erased,
The small centre of Bizovac which today houses the except for the Church of
is also well known in Slavonia Valpovo Museum (Muzej St Michael (Sv. Mihovil). The
for its exquisite gold and Valpovštine). The museum mock-medieval Majláth Manor
silver embroidery. The work contains period furniture and was built at the beginning of
is carried out by the young interesting archaeological finds. the 20th century by the Majláth
women of the area, usually to The complex stands in a large family. It has pinnacles and a tall
a commission. tower on the façade. The manor
is now the Town Hall.
 Bizovačke toplice
Sunčana 39. Tel (031) 685 100. P Majláth Manor
∑ bizovacke-toplice.hr Vukovarska 1. Tel Tourist office (031)
633 103. Open by appt. &
Environs
Around 9 km (5 miles) south Environs
of Bizovac is the village of About 25 km (15 miles) west is
Brođanci, famous for the the village of Čađavica. Traces
Olympics of Ancient Sports, from ancient Croatian settlements
held here in August every year. have been discovered near here.
During the competition, The Romanesque church of
athletes take part in some of St Peter was used by the Turks
the sports once practised by The imposing castle at Valpovo, now as a mosque and was renovated
the peasants of Slavonia, a museum in the 18th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp247–8


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SLA VONIA AND BAR ANJA  201


f Našice two-storey building has been second half of the 13th century
restored. This building is now by the Aba counts. Today, the
Map F2. * 8,500. k Osijek, 42 km
(26 miles). £ (060) 333 444. @ (060) the Civic Museum. houses in Voćin are in ruins. All
334 030. n Trg dr. Franje Tuđmana 4, that remains of the Church of
(031) 614 951. ∑ tznasice.hr E Civic Museum St Mary (Sv. Marija), which was
Pejačevićev trg 5. Tel (031) 613 414. built by King John Corvinus in
A small plateau is the setting Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri. & the first half of the 15th century,
for the town of Našice, which 8 (by appt). ^ ∑ zmn.hr is part of the apse wall.
is surrounded by vineyards
and woods. Built on the site
of an ancient settlement, it g Orahovica
was referred to in the first Map F2. * 4,300. k Osijek,
half of the 13th century under 62 km (38 miles). £ (033) 646 079.
the name of Nekche, as @ (033) 673 231. n Trg sv. Florijana
property of the Knights bb, (033) 673 540. _ Spring in
Templar. After the dissolution Orahovica: folklore event (Jun).
of this order in 1312, it passed ∑ tzgorahovica.hr
to the Gorjanski nobles and,
later, through marriage to the The town of Orahovica is well
counts of Ilok, before falling known in Croatia for its wines.
into the hands of the Turkish It was a feudal estate in 1228,
forces in 1532. and later a Turkish garrison,
After the expulsion of the acquiring its present-day look
Turks, Našice’s fortunes in the 18th century.
changed. The Franciscans On one of the hills around Ornate altar in the Baroque church
returned and restored the the town stand the ruins of the of St Roch, Virovitica
Church of St Anthony of castle Rose town (Ružica grad),
Padua (Sv. Antun Padovanski). one of the largest of Croatia’s h Virovitica
They also rebuilt their medieval forts. The walls were Map E2. * 16,000. k Osijek, 89 km
monastery, which had been 9m (29 ft) thick and enclosed (55 miles). £ Ulica Stjepana Radića,
founded here at the start of military buildings, a church, (033) 730 121. @ Trg fra. B. Gerbera 1,
the 14th century. Both needed and the governor’s residence. (033) 721 113. n Trg Kralja Tomislava 1,
repairing after war damage The complex was so large it (033) 721 241. _ Day of the City
suffered in 1991. was often referred to as a city. (16 Aug). ∑ tz-virovitica.hr
A short distance away is The Turks burnt down the fort,
a large manor house, built then partially restored it and Documents from the end of
at the beginning of the used it as a military garrison. the first millennium give the
19th century in Neo-Classical Liberated in 1690, the fort was town its name of Wereuche.
style by the Pejačević family, once again used for defence, It was declared a free town by
where the musician Dora and a village, inhabited by Serbs, King Coloman in 1234 and it
Pejačević (1885–1923) lived. developed around its base. developed into an agricultural
Situated in a large park, the and trading centre. Later
Environs occupied by the Turks, it
Along the road to remained under their rule until
Kutjevo, 5 km (3 miles) 1684. When it later flourished, all
south of Orahovica, Ottoman traces were destroyed.
near the village of The Baroque Church of
Duzluk, is the Orthodox St Roch (Sv. Rok), decorated
Monastery of St Nicholas by the sculptor Holzinger and
(Manastir Sv. Nikola), the painter Göbler, dates from
which has ancient the 18th century. On the site of
frescoes and the ancient Wasserburg Castle
illuminated manuscripts. stands the imposing Pejačević
Some 30 km (18 miles) Manor (1800–4), now the Civic
from Orahovica, Museum (Gradski muzej) with
following the road to archaeological and folklore
Virovitica, then turning collections and an art gallery.
left for Čeralije, is Voćin,
a small village where E Civic Museum
the destruction caused Dvorac Pejačević, Trg bana Jelačića 23.
by the war in 1991 is Tel (033) 722 127. Open 8am–3pm
still evident. The village Mon, Fri; 8am–7pm Tue–Thu;
lies at the foot of a large 10am–1pm Sat. & 8 (by appt).
Church of St Anthony of Padua in Našice castle built in the ^ ∑ muzejvirovitica.hr




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CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA  203

THE NORTHERN

COUNTIES


The landscape in this part of Croatia is made up of a variety of elements: the
rolling hills of Zagorje with their therapeutic spring waters and thermal spas;
the county of Međimurje, which is famous for its wines; the cities of Varaždin
and Čakovec, which developed around ancient castles; Koprivnica, surrounded
by lush countryside and vineyards, and Bjelovar and Križevci with their palaces.
The principal towns in the area have The high hills of Zagorje are covered in
ancient origins and two, Varaždin and forests, broken up only by the clearings
Križevci, were also at various times the created for imposing medieval castles,
seat of the Sabor, the Croatian Parliament. many of which have since been
Bjelovar is the most recent and largest transformed into sumptuous Baroque
city-fortress in the country. Even before residences. In Podravina, drained by the
the 1991 war which affected the south of River Drava, which in some parts flows
this area, the wars of the second half of the along the Hungarian border, the hills are
18th century had already destroyed all lower and are characterized by vineyards
evidence of the Middle Ages and Turkish and sparse woodland.
occupation. However, there are many This part of Croatia has preserved all
religious buildings in the area, including kinds of ancient customs and traditions,
a number of Catholic Franciscan and a source of inspiration for the Naive art
Pauline monasteries in places once movement. The home of Naive art is
inhabited by Orthodox communities. Hlebine, where artists such as Ivan
Religious life is still very active here and Generalić encouraged and fostered the
church buildings are cherished. talent of local amateur painters.





























Stacks of maize in the countryside between Belec and Marija Bistrica
The Black Madonna of Marija Bistrica, visited by pilgrims in their thousands



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204  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the Northern Counties

This is an area of good, fertile agricultural land and the lush
countryside produces an abundance of maize, tobacco and
sunflowers. The hillsides are covered in vineyards as far as
the eye can see and yield wines, good whites in particular,
which can be bought along the Wine Road, from wineries
or in the village shops. Despite these attractions, the
region does not see a great deal of international tourism.
This is particularly true of Međimurje, the valley crossed by
the River Mura, granted to Croatia after World War I. Part of
the population here is of Hungarian origin and the people
have preserved their Hungarian customs and traditions.
A side chapel of St Mary of the Snows,
Marija Bistrica
Mursko
Središče
Podturen
ŠTRIGOVA Domašinec
Maribor
MEĐIMURSKA Nagykanizsa
ČAKOVEC
Goričan
Mala Kotoriba
VINICA Subotica Donja
Dubrava
VARAŽDIN
Maribor
Kneginec
The castle in Veliki Tabor TRAKOŠĆAN VARAŽDINSKA Vrbanovec LUDBREG Drava
Ivanec
VARAŽDINSKE
LEPOGLAVA TOPLICE Peteranec
PREGRADA Podrute KOPRIVNICA
VELIKI KRAPINA Ivanšči ca Apatovec Hlebine
Novi
TABOR KRAPINSKO- Mihovljan Marof Reka Koprivnički Bregi
Miljana ZAGORSKA Zlatar BELEC Vukovec Sokolovac
Krapinske TOUR OF THE THERMAL SPA S KOPRIVNIČKO - KRIŽEVAČKA
KUMROVEC Toplice Carevdar Novigrad-
KLANJEC BEDEKOVČINA Konjćina Podravski ĐURÐEVAC
Zabok Krapina KRIŽEVCI
MARIJA BISTRICA Hampovica
0 kilometres 15 Oroslavje
0 miles 15 Sveti Ivan Vel. Raven
Stubičke Toplice Zelina Sv. Ivan
Medved ni c a Kašina BJELOVAR
Jakovlje Žabno Predavac Virovitica
Zaprešić Vrbovec
Zagreb Zagreb

Sights at a Glance
1 Varaždin pp206–7 0 Kumrovec p Bjelovar
2 Čakovec q Klanjec a Križevci
3 Štrigova w Bedekovčina
4 Vinica e Marija Bistrica Tour
5 Lepoglava t Belec r Tour of the Thermal Spas
6 Trakošćan y Varaždinske Toplice pp216–17
7 Krapina u Ludbreg
8 Pregrada i Koprivnica
9 Veliki Tabor o Ðurđevac
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9


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THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  205

Getting Around HUNGARY
Motorways connect Zagreb to Maribor in Slovenia, SLOVENIA
passing through Krapina, and serve Varaždin en route • ZAGREB
for Hungary. Cars still use state roads which run more
or less parallel to the two motorways. State road 2 HERZEGOVINA
BOSNIA-
goes from the Slovenian border, northwest of Varaždin,
and continues on towards Osijek. A railway line runs ADRIATIC
alongside state road 3 and at Varaždin interconnects SEA
with railway lines from Zagreb, Slovenia and Hungary.
There are also train connections to Slovenia and Locator Map
Hungary from Čakovec and Koprivnica stations.






Mursko
Središče
Podturen
ŠTRIGOVA Domašinec
Maribor
MEĐIMURSKA Nagykanizsa
ČAKOVEC
Goričan
Mala Kotoriba
VINICA Subotica Donja
Dubrava
VARAŽDIN
Maribor
Kneginec Vrbanovec A Naive painting from the Hlebine Gallery
TRAKOŠĆAN VARAŽDINSKA LUDBREG Drava
Ivanec
VARAŽDINSKE
LEPOGLAVA TOPLICE Peteranec
PREGRADA Podrute KOPRIVNICA
VELIKI KRAPINA Ivanšči ca Apatovec Hlebine
Novi
TABOR KRAPINSKO- Mihovljan Marof Reka Koprivnički Bregi
Miljana ZAGORSKA Zlatar BELEC Vukovec Sokolovac
Krapinske TOUR OF THE THERMAL SPA S KOPRIVNIČKO - KRIŽEVAČKA
KUMROVEC Toplice Carevdar Novigrad-
KLANJEC BEDEKOVČINA Konjćina Podravski ĐURÐEVAC
Zabok Krapina KRIŽEVCI
MARIJA BISTRICA Hampovica
Oroslavje
Sveti Ivan Vel. Raven
Stubičke Toplice Zelina Sv. Ivan
Medved ni c a Kašina BJELOVAR
Jakovlje Žabno Predavac Virovitica
Zaprešić Vrbovec
Zagreb Zagreb



Key
Motorway
Major road
Minor road
Main railway
County border
International border Varaždin Castle in winter
For keys to symbols see back flap


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206  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA

1 Varaždin wear richly decorated blue
uniforms and bearskin hats.
Traces of occupation from the Neolithic age, the La Tene To the east of the square
civilization and the Roman period have been found around stands Drašković Palace (Palača
Varaždin castle. Despite this, the first mention of the town is Drašković), built in the late 17th
found in a document from 1181, when King Bela III confirmed century with a Rococo façade.
The Croat Parliament met here
the rights of the Zagreb Curia to the thermal spas in the area. in 1756–76. Opposite stands
In 1209, it was declared a free town by King Andrew II and it the Renaissance Ritz House,
began to develop as a trading centre. In the late 14th century one of the oldest in the town,
it passed into the hands of the counts of Celjski, followed by as evidenced by the date (1540)
the counts of Frankopan, Brandenburg and Erdödy. In 1446, it engraved on the doorway.
was destroyed in a fire and in 1527 the Turks attacked. In 1776 R Cathedral of the
another fire destroyed the houses, but the Baroque buildings Assumption
for which the town is famous were fortunately spared. Uznesenja Marijina
Pavlinska ulica 4. Tel (042) 210 688.
Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 4–7pm daily.
The Church of the Assumption
became a cathedral in 1997.
Both the church and the
annexed monastery were built
in the first half of the 17th
century by the Jesuits. Later,
the Pauline order moved in.
The cathedral’s tall façade is
enlivened by pillars. The interior
is a triumph of the Baroque. The
main altar occupies the width of
the central nave and has gilded
The splendid castle, today home to the Civic Museum columns, stuccoes and engrav-
ings. At the centre of the altar is
P Castle and Civic Museum E Gallery of Old and an Assumption of the Virgin,
Stari grad & Gradski muzej Modern Masters reminiscent of Titian’s work in
Strossmayerovo šetalište 7. Tel (042) Galerija starih i novih majstora Venice. Evenings of Baroque
658 754. Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, Stančićev trg 3. Tel (042) 214 172. music concerts are held here.
9am–1pm Sat & Sun. & 8 ^ Open 9am–5pm Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm
It is unknown when exactly this Sat & Sun. & 8 by appt. ^
castle was built, though some The gallery has a large
documents suggest it dates collection of works by artists
back to the 12th century. It was from all over Europe, particularly
built over the ruins of an landscapes by Flemish and
observation tower and, in the Italian artists, and portraits by
15th century, two round towers German and Dutch painters.
were added. The castle was
rebuilt in 1560 by the Italian P Tomislav Square
architect Domenico dell’Allio, Trg kralja Tomislava
who created a Renaissance Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica): Trg
structure on two floors kralja Tomislava 1. Tel (042) 402 508.
with arcades and corridors Open by appt. Drašković Palace Rich Baroque altar in the Cathedral of
facing courtyards. (Palača Drašković): Trg kralja the Assumption
The castle’s present look dates Tomislava 3. Closed to the public.
from the time of the Erdödy This square is the heart of the
counts, who added the bastions town. Facing the square is the P Church of St John
and a moat. It is now the Civic Town Hall (Gradska vijećnica), the Baptist
Museum, which has collections one of the oldest buildings in Sv. Ivan Krstitelj
of weapons, porcelain, furniture, Varaždin. Built in the Gothic Franjevački trg 8. Tel (042) 213
handicrafts, and a pharmacy style in the 15th century, it has 166. Open 8:30am–noon, 5:30–
from the 18th century. Remains since been altered and a clock 7pm daily.
of the wall and the Lisak tower, tower added. It has been the The church was built in 1650 in
to the east of the castle, are the Town Hall since 1523, when the Baroque style on the site of
only evidence remaining of Prince George of Brandenburg a 13th-century church. The
the ancient walls that existed gave it to the city. It is guarded façade has a Renaissance
at this site. in summer by the Purgers, who doorway with a tympanum and
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9


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THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  207


P Hercer Palace VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Palača Hercer
Franjevački trg 6. Open 9am–5pm Practical Information
Tue–Fri, 9am–1pm Sat & Sun. Map D1. * 42,000. n Local:
Entomological Museum: Tel (042) Ivana Padovca 3, (042) 210 987;
658 760. Open same opening times Regional: Uska 4, (042) 210 096.
as the palace. & 8 _ Baroque evenings, Varaždin,
Built at the end of the 18th (Sep–Oct); Gastrolov (Oct).
∑ tourism-varazdin.hr
century (the founders’ coat of
arms is on the door), the palace Transport
has housed the well-organized £ Frane Supila, (042) 210 444.
Entomological Section of the @ Kolodvorska 17, (060) 333 555.
Civic Museum (Entomološki
odjel Gradskog muzeja) since
1954. The museum was founded furnishings by local masters,
thanks to the entomologist and an organ with figures of
Franjo Košćec (1882–1968), who, angels playing instruments.
Bell tower of St John the Baptist in in 1959, donated his natural The neighbouring monastery,
Tomislav Square history collection to the city. from the same period, is famous
From 1962 to 1980 his work was for its library of parchments,
two statues of St Francis of carried on by his daughter Ružica, incunabula and manuscripts, and
Assisi and St Anthony of Padua. a biologist. As well as thousands some of the oldest documents
The interior has eight side of insects, the museum also has in ancient Croatian (kajkavski).
chapels and an ornate gilded a herbarium. From time to time,
pulpit from the late 17th temporary exhibitions on a P National Theatre
century. The bell tower is 54 m variety of themes are organized. Narodno kazalište
(177 ft) high. Ulica Augusta Cesarca 1.
In front of the church is one R Church of the Holy Trinity Tel (042) 214 688.
of the copies of the Monument Sv. Trojstvo Open for performances only.
of Bishop Gregory of Nin by Kapucinski trg 7. Tel (042) 213 550. Built by Hermann Helmer in 1873,
Ivan Meštrović. The adjacent Open 9am–noon, 6–7pm Mon–Sat, this is one of the main cultural
pharmacy has many works Sun before and after Mass. centres in the city. During the
of art, among them some The church dates from the summer and autumn, theatre-
allegorical frescoes by Ivan early 18th century and houses goers from all over Europe
Ranger (see p210). numerous Baroque paintings, come to attend performances.

Varaždin Town Centre
1 Castle and Civic Museum
2 Gallery of Old and V. N AZ OR A
Modern Masters Civic Museum
Castle and
3 Tomislav Square TRG BANA
JELAČIĆA
4 Cathedral of the Gallery of Old
Assumption and Modern Masters
5 Church of St John A . Š E N O E
the Baptist PA D O VČEVA LJ. GAJEVA
6 Hercer Palace V. LISINSKOG Church of Town Hall P. P R E R A D O V I Č A
7 Church of the Holy Trinity S . V R A Z A Ursuline URŠULINSKA U. the Baptist TOMISLAV
St John
SQUARE
8 National Theatre Church Drašković Palace
Herzer FRANJEVAČKI PAVLINSKA
Palace Cathedral of the
Assumption
KAČIĆEVA Patačiċ GUN DULIĆEVA TRG HABDELIĆEVA
Palace
Church of
Erdödy St Nicholas Train Station
DRAŠKOVIĆEVA
Palace TRG 500m (550 yards)
SLOBODE
A . C E S A R C A ANINA
KAPUCINSKI National
TRG Theatre
0 metres 200 Church of BLAŽEKOVA
the Holy
Trinity
0 yards 200
ZRINSKIH I FRANKOPANA
Bus
Station
For keys to symbols see back flap
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208  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA






















Vineyards in the countryside around Čakovec
2 Čakovec while fighting against the The Renaissance Old Castle,
Map D1. * 16,000. £ (040) 384 333. Ottomans in defending Siget, of which only the first floor
@ Masarykova ulica, (040) 313 947. and became a national hero. remains, and the Baroque New
n Local: Kralja Tomislava 1, (040) 313 On 29 May 1579, one of his Castle with a rectangular plan,
319. Regional: Ruđera Boškovića 2, successors, a member of face each other inside the
(040) 374 064. _ Carnival in the Zrinski family of Siget, medieval walls. For a long time
Međimurje (Feb); The Town of Čakovec guaranteed tax privileges to the Old Castle was used as a
Day. ∑ tourism-cakovec.hr whoever went to live in the city prison. It is now being restored
that was developing around the and is to be used in future for
In the second half of the fort. This date is considered the cultural activities. The church
13th century, on a site once founding of the city and is has been reopened for worship.
inhabited by Romans, Count celebrated with a festival. The Međimurje Civic
Demetrius Chaky, a magistrate Bastions and a moat were Museum of Čakovec has on
at the court of King Bela IV, built added in this period as defence display exhibits of prehistoric
a tower here which was called against cannon fire. Inside the material, many Roman finds,
Chaktornya. In the following walls, a four-storey palace was and ethnographic collections.
century, the main defensive built around a square courtyard. There is also an exhibition
structure in Međimurje was In 1671 Petar Zrinski led a dedicated to the local composer,
built around the tower. In 1547 plot to separate Croatia from J Slavenski (1896–1955), who
Emperor Ferdinand gave it to the Kingdom of Hungary. was known for his love of the
the Ban (governor) of Croatia, The plot was discovered and traditional music of the region.
Nikola Zrinski (see p181), Zrinski and his co-conspirator Čakovec is the main
together with a large estate, as Fran Krsto Frankopan were administrative centre of the
a reward for the victory against beheaded on 30 April 1671. Međimurje, a frontier region
the Turks and to settle a debt. Čakovec then came under the which borders Slovenia and
Nikola Zrinski died heroically direct rule of the Emperor. Hungary. The land in the
western part of the region is
hilly with broad valleys, and is
renowned for its wines, while
the fertile plains of the eastern
part produce cereal crops.
E Međimurje Civic Museum
Trg Republike 5. Tel (040) 313 499.
Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri (Apr–Sep:
from 6am); 10am–1pm Sat & Sun.
& 8 ^ =
Environs
In the village of Šenkovec, 2 km
(1 mile) from Čakovec, stands
the Church of St Helen (Sv.
Old and New Castles of Čakovec Jelena). What little remains of its
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9


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THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  209


original Gothic form has been 17th century. At one time the
integrated into an overall palace was famous for its rich
Baroque appearance. The furnishings, its art collections,
church is all that survives of and for the fact that the
the monastery founded by the Hungarian king, Matthias
Paulines in 1376. It has Corvinus, was often a
been rebuilt at various guest here.
times, firstly after a The Church of
Protestant revolt, then St Jerome (Sv.
because of a fire and Jerolim) stands on
finally after an a hill at the edge of
earthquake. the village. Restoration
Inside the church has uncovered the
are the tombstones of Fresco on the door of the frescoes above
the powerful Zrinski church of St Jerome, the doorway and
family, the lords of Štrigova in the niches on
Čakovec: that of the façade, which is Frescoed façade of the Church of
Nikola Zrinski and his wife flanked by two harmonious St Jerome, Štrigova
Catherine Frankopan, and bell towers and culminates in
also that of Petar Zrinski. a curvilinear tympanum. Drašković counts, which was
The church also contains a In the church are numerous situated in the centre of a
number of tombs of members trompe-l’œil paintings by the large park.
of the Knežević family, who Tyrolean artist Ivan Ranger In the late 19th century,
became the successors to (see p210), depicting Angels, Count Marko Bombelles created
the Zrinskis. the Evangelists and the Life of Opeka Park, 2 km (1 mile) south
St Jerome. There are also statues of Vinica. This large arboretum
representing the fathers of was at that time the only one
the Church. of its kind in Croatia. Here
Bombelles planted exotic trees
and plants from around the
4 Vinica world, including the Americas,
Japan, Tibet and the Caucasus,
Map D1. * 1,200. @ from
Varaždin. n Trg Matije Gupca 14, over an area of flat and
(042) 722 233. hilly ground.
Next to this wonderful
This small town lies at the foot park, declared a protected
of vine-covered hills. It was first nature reserve in 1961, a school
mentioned in documents of of horticulture has been set
1353 as the site of a medieval up. This school has several
fortress. At one time it was glasshouses and a large garden
known for the large palace built of flowering plants.
by the Patačić counts on the site
One of the frescoes decorating the church of their old castle. The palace is Y Opeka Park
of St Helen, Čakovec now in ruins, as is that of the Open at all times.
3 Štrigova
Map D1. * 450. £ from Čakovec.
@ from Čakovec. n Štrigova 22a,
(040) 851 325. ∑ strigova.info
Numerous finds of Roman
origin have been discovered
here, leading historians to
believe that this village was
built on the site of the Roman
city of Stridon, the birthplace
of St Jerome.
The counts of Štrigovčak
lived here, but their castle was
destroyed during a raid by the
Turks. Nearby, the Bannfy counts
also built a castle, which was
transformed into a palace in the Spring floral display in Opeka Park, near Vinica




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210  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


UNESCO’s list of Intangible
Cultural Heritage. Lepoglava also
hosts an annual international
lace festival in September.
R Church of St Mary
Trg 1. hrvatskog sveučilišta 3.
Tel (042) 792 566. Open by appt.

6 Trakošćan
Map D1. @ for Trakošćan.
n Trakošćan, (042) 796 281.
∑ trakoscan.hr
The pretty surroundings
of the Castle of Trakošćan,
and its excellent state of
Choir stalls in the Church of St Mary, frescoed by the artist Ivan Ranger conservation, make this
one of the most visited tourist
5 Lepoglava a modern penitentiary was built sights in Zagorje. The castle
and the monastery buildings was built to guard the road
Map D1. * 8,500. £ (042) 791 193.
@ for Ivanec. n Hrvatskih pavlina 7, were returned to which descends from
(042) 494 317. _ International Lace the church. Ptuj towards the
Festival (Sep). ∑ lepoglava-info.hr The Pauline valley of the River
brotherhood may Sava. The castle
A pretty town on the Bednja also have been was listed in
river, nestled between the responsible for 1434 as one
forested slopes of two mountain instigating of the properties
peaks, Lepoglava rose to Lepoglava’s other granted by
prominence from 1400, when claim to fame: the Typical lace from Sigismund of Austria
the Pauline order built a church making of exquisite Lepoglava to the Count of
and monastery here, which and intricate lace, a Celje. It was used for
gradually became a prominent centuries-old tradition and defence purposes until the
seat of learning and scholarship. its centuries old Lace School. end of Turkish rule. In 1568
By the mid-17th century the Along with the lace of Pag and it became the property of
monastery had become one of Hvar, it has been entered into the Drašković counts.
of Croatia’s first universities;
at around the same time the
church, dedicated to St Mary Ivan Ranger (Johannes Baptiste Ranger)
(Sv. Marija), was enlarged and Born in Götzens, near Innsbruck in Austria, in 1700,
embellished. It is a Baroque Ivan Ranger joined the Pauline order at a very
Gothic building with a richly early age. Not much is known of his years
furnished interior, noted for an as an apprentice, but it is certain that he
organ dating 1649, which still lived for a time in Italy, where he
plays, and the magnificent encountered the Baroque style
series of frescoes by Ivan in Venice, Rome, Bologna and
Ranger. Also of interest is the Mantua. At the age of 30 he was
pulpit and the altar of St Anne invited to Lepoglava, then the
by the Pauline monk and headquarters of the order, to
sculptor Aleksije Königer. which he remained loyal until his
In 1854, after the dissolution death in 1753. He also worked in
nearby towns and in Slovenia (at
of the Pauline order, Lepoglava’s the monastery of Olimje and the
monastery entered a more castle-monastery of Sveti Jernej
notorious period of its history. in Rogatec). In line with Pauline
It was converted into a prison, principles, he created a school of
in which many major Croatian fresco painters. With these artists
revolutionaries, dissidents and he produced colourful fresco cycles
activists of the 20th century which were full of expression (the
were incarcerated, including trompe-l’œil paintings also reveal
Josip Broz (Tito), Moša Pijade, great technical skill). His themes
Archbishop Alojzije Stepinac were always religious, and he was Fresco painted by the Pauline monk
and Franjo Tuđman. However, much imitated. Ivan Ranger
at the start of the 21st century,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9


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THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  211


the first half of the 19th century
he was a prominent figure in
the movement which promoted
the revival of Croatian politics
and culture.
E Museum of Krapina
Neanderthal Men
Šetalište V Sluge bb. Tel (049) 371 491.
Open Mar & Oct: 9am–6pm Tue-Sun;
Apr–Jun & Sep: 9am–7pm Tue–Sun;
Jul & Aug: 9am–6pm Tue–Fri, 9am–
7pm Sat & Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am– 4pm
Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 8
by appt. ^
Castle of Trakošćan, now a museum
Environs
During the second half of the presentations and exhibits Just northeast of Krapina is the
19th century, it was transformed explore the life and culture of sanctuary of the Madonna of
into a splendid Neo-Gothic Neanderthal man. Jerusalem in Trški Vrh, a magnif-
residence by Juraj Drašković. Krapina is first documented in icent example of Baroque art in
He also added an artificial lake, 1193 as the site of a castle, Croatia. Built in 1750–61, on
a park and gardens, while at now destroyed, built to a square plan, the façade
the same time preserving some guard the river of the has a bell tower with an
of the military aspects of the same name. After the onion dome. Inside is
castle. It stands on a wooded danger of Turkish an arched portico with
hilltop and is surrounded by a attack had passed, rounded corners
high wall with a tower, which it was conceded and four chapels
encircles the imposing palace. to the Keglević similar to the
All 32 of the rooms of the counts and tower. The walls,
castle are now a museum became an vaults, ceilings and
where furniture, armoury, important dome of the church
vestments and paintings, as administrative town. are covered with a
well as a rare series of portraits It also became a religious cycle of frescoes of biblical
of the Drašković family, are centre. In the mid-17th subjects and scenes from
on display. century, a Franciscan Mary’s life by the
mona stery and the Bust of Ljudevit Styrian artist, Anton
P Castle and Museum Baroque Church of Gaj, Krapina Lerchinger. The
Tel (042) 796 422. Open Apr–Oct: St Catherine were built. ornate main altar
9am–6pm daily; Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm The sacristy and some of the (with a statue of the Virgin
daily. & 8 ^ = mona stery rooms are decorated brought from Jerusalem in
with vivid frescoes by Ivan Ranger. 1669) is by sculptor Filip Jacob
In one of the town squares is Straub of Graz, while the pulpit
7 Krapina a monument to Ljudevit Gaj, and the other three altars are
born in Krapina in 1809. During the work of Anton Mersi.
Map D1. * 4,500. £ Frana Galovića
bb, (049) 328 028. @ A. Starčevića,
(049) 315 018. n Magistratska 28,
(049) 371 330. _ Week of music
and Kajkaviana culture (Sep).
∑ tzg-krapina.hr
This town is well known in the
scientific field because of the
remains of Krapina man, Homo
krapinensis, who lived in the
Palaeolithic age, that were
found nearby. The Neanderthal
skeleton, discovered in 1899
in a hillside cave, is now in the
Archaeological Museum in
Zagreb. The Museum of
Krapina Neanderthal Men
is one of the most modern
museums in Croatia. Multimedia Fresco in the Baroque Church of the Madonna of Jerusalem in Trški Vrh




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214  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


8 Pregrada fact that it was royal property
justified its imposing
Map C1. * 1,700. n Trg Gospe
Kunagorske 3, (049) 377 050. appearance). It was granted
_ Carnival (Feb), Branje grožđa, to the family of the Ratkaj
grape harvest (Sep). ∑ pregrada.hr counts, who in the 16th
century transformed it into a
The village church has ancient sumptuous residential palace.
origins but now presents a Walls with four semicircular
19th-century appearance, made towers encircle the main body
distinctive by the façade flanked of the castle, which is built on a
by two pointed bell towers. pentagonal ground-plan. Two
Inside, as well as the tombs of floors with porticoes face the
members of the Keglević and central courtyard. The bastions
Gorup families, there is also a (no longer extant) made Veliki
very large organ, which was at Tabor a fortress to be feared.
one time in Zagreb Cathedral. The castle is now a museum.
On the site of a medieval
castle, in the Hrvatsko Zagorje P Castle
woods along the Wine Road, Inside the Church of St Mary of the Košnički Hum 1, Desinić. Tel (049) 374
stands Gorica Castle, once Visitation, Vinagora 970. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm Tue–
owned by the Keglević family Fri, 9am–7pm Sat & Sun; Mar & Oct:
and the feudal manor of the area. sanctuary entrance, which also 9am–4pm Tue–Fri, 9am–5pm Sat &
Two round towers frame the once had a drawbridge. These Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm Tue–Sun.
structure of the elaborate façade. towers are now used as chapels.
Other buildings behind the Environs
towers are now used as a winery. Miljana, just to the southwest
9 Veliki Tabor of Veliki Tabor, is home to one of
Environs Map C1. @ from Krapina or Zagreb the most picturesque Baroque
On a vineyard-covered hill 7 km for Desinić. n Košnički Hum 1, castles in Croatia. Construction
(4 miles) west of Pregrada, in Desinić, (049) 374 970. began in the 17th century but
Vinagora, stands an unusual _ Knights tournament (Sep). was not completed until the
sanctuary of ancient origins. ∑ veliki-tabor.hr mid-19th century. This time
This place of worship became span resulted in a variety of
the parish church in 1780. One of the most famous and styles; there are striking
The church of St Mary of the best-preserved castles in 18th-century Rococo frescoes
Visitation (Sv. Marija od Pohoda) Croatia, Veliki Tabor stands on in some rooms, and some
contains some Gothic statues a bare hilltop, making it visible delightful artworks.
and rich furnishings. The from a great distance. It was
church is surrounded by royal property in the 14th
walls which encircle the hill. century at the time of King 0 Kumrovec
Two round towers guard the Matthias Corvinus I (the
Map C1. * 300. £ (049) 553 129.
@ from Zagreb. n Ulica Josipa
Broza 12, (049) 553 728. _ Marriage
of Zagorje (Sep). ∑ kumrovec.hr
This was the birthplace of
Marshal Tito, born Josip Broz
in 1892. His house, which dates
from 1860, was turned into a
museum in 1953. On display
are the furniture and household
goods which belonged to
his family.
In the square in front of the
house is a monument to Tito,
the work of Antun Augustinčić
in 1948. Along with other village
houses, Tito’s birthplace is now
part of a folk museum, the
Ethnological Museum – Staro
Selo, which means “old village”.
The preserved thatched houses
are furnished with utensils and
Castle of Veliki Tabor, one of the best-preserved castles in Croatia household goods of the time.
Castle of Trakošćan, built in around 1334 as part of Croatia’s northwestern fortification system



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THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  215


e Marija Bistrica
Map D1. * 1,000. £ Zlatar Bistrica,
5 km (3 miles). @ from Zagreb.
n Zagrebačka bb, (049) 468 380.
_ Summer in Marija Bistrica (Jun–
Aug). ∑ tz-marija-bistrica.hr
This small village lying on
the northern side of the
Medvednica mountain is home
to the Sanctuary of St Mary of
Bistrica (Majke Božje Bistričke),
one of the best-known
Birthplace of Marshal Tito, part of the Staro Selo museum in Kumrovec pilgrimage sites in Croatia.
There has been a church on
Reconstructed workshops have E Antun Augustinčić Gallery this site since 1334. In the mid-
been set up to demonstrate Trg A Mihanovića 10. Tel (049) 550 16th century, when a Turkish
crafts such as hemp- and 343. Open Apr–Sep: 9am–5pm daily; invasion seemed imminent,
flax-weaving. Oct–Mar: 9am–3pm Tue–Sun. a wooden statue of the Black
Madonna with Child was
E Ethnological Museum – hidden in the church.
Staro Selo w Bedekovčina Some decades later, it was
Kumrovec bb. Tel (049) 225 830. Open miraculously rediscovered,
Apr–Sep: 9am–7pm daily; Mar & Oct: Map D1. * 3,500. £ Trg A to great joy and emotion.
9am–4pm Mon–Fri, 9am–6pm Sat & Starčevića 12, (049) 213 106. It still inspires tremendous
Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily. & 8 @ from Zagreb. n Regional:
Magistratska 3, Krapina, (049) 233 devotion today.
653. _ Wine fair (Jun). The church has been enlarged
several times and was the first
q Klanjec This town is home to a to be declared a Sanctuary of
particularly attractive castle Croatia by Parliament (1715).
Map C1. * 600. £ (049) 550404.
@ from Zagreb, Krapina, Zabok. and palace, one of many It was rebuilt in 1883 by the
n Trg A Mihanovića 2, (049) 551 002. buildings erected over the architect Hermann Bollé. He
_ Thanksgiving to Autumn (Oct). ruins of ancient castles in adopted an eclectic approach,
& 8 ∑ klanjec.hr the Zagorje hills. The combining Romanesque, Gothic
majority of these were and Baroque styles. The church
Antun Augustinčić (1900– destroyed during the also has a large frescoed portico.
79) is one of the most wars against the Turks. The sanctuary possesses a
important Croatian This particular castle rich store of beautiful religious
sculptors of the 20th was built in the objects: gold and silver
century, and his works early 18th century, pieces, furnishings and sacred
can be seen around and now houses vestments adorned with gold
the world. He was born public offices. embroidery. Some objects are
here, and the Antun The castle is built now on exhibit in the Diocesan
Augustinčić Gallery Statue of Antun on a quadrangular Museum in Zagreb.
displays his work. Mihanović, Klanjec plan, on two levels
Also of interest are and with a sloping R Sanctuary of St Mary
the Franciscan monastery and roof. Coats of arms are of the Snows
the annexed church of St Mary, emblazoned above the Trg pape Ivana Pavla II 32.
both built in the 17th century two entrance doors. Tel (049) 469 156. Open by appt.
by the powerful Erdödy family,
whose tombs lie here. Tours can
be arranged by the tourist office.
In the main square is a
monument by Robert Frangeš-
Mihanović, dedicated to the
poet Antun Mihanović,
who wrote the Croatian
national anthem.
Another memorial dedicated
to Antun Mihanović is the
9-m (29-ft) memorial stone
which stands in Zelenjak, 3 km
(2 miles) north of Klanjec, in the
direction of Kumrovec. Sanctuary of St Mary of the Snows in Marija Bistrica, a place of pilgrimage
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9


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216  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


r Tour of the Thermal Spas

Between Varaždin and Zagreb are six thermal spas
(toplice), dating from different eras. Set in a pleasant hilly
landscape of vineyards and woods, the spas are popular
with Croatians and visitors from nearby European
countries. As well as being attracted by the well-
equipped thermal spas, visitors are also drawn by the
cities and towns nearby. In addition there are numerous
castles, sanctuaries, churches and museums, making this Decorative detail from the Roman
a very pleasant area to stay in. baths, Varaždinske Toplice
5 Sutinske Toplice
4 Krapinske Toplice Located 8 km (5 miles) northwest of
This thermal spa was Zlatar, at an altitude of 170 m (557 ft),
built in the second half this site has been famous since the
of the 19th century near 13th century for its curative waters, Varaždin
a hot water spring rich in which are slightly radioactive and rich
calcium, magnesium and in minerals, particularly calcium and
carbonate. The hospital treats magnesium. Mud baths are particularly
rheumatic, cardio vascular and effective for the treatment of a variety
neurological illnesses with of ailments. Outdoor pools only.
bathing in its three indoor
pools (the hotel also has out­
door pools and a whirlpool)
and mud treatments.
Belec
Mihovljan
Krapina
Donja
Šemnica
Zlatar
Zlatar
Bistrica
Bedekovčina 1 Terme Jezerčica
Zabok This thermal spa is located in
Danja Stubica. There is a hotel
(with thermal water conducted to
every bathroom), a wellness
spa and beauty centre, a sauna,
fitness programmes, massage,
Zagreb face and body treatments
and several pools.
Key
Tour route
Motorway
Other roads

3 Terme Tuhelj
This spa town is 2 Stubičke Toplice
40 km (25 miles) This spa is located at the foot of Mount
from Zagreb. At the Medvednica, 3 km (2 miles) from Donja
hotel with its eight Stubica. The spa dates from 1776. There
pools, rheumatic, is a hospital here that specializes in the
respiratory, urological treatment of degenerative diseases of
and gynaecological the joints and spine. The hot spa waters
illnesses are treated. emerge at 69°C (156°F).

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9


216-217_EW_Croatia.indd 216 20/10/16 12:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  217



Tips for Drivers
Length of tour: 100 km
(62 miles).
Stops: Toplice Hotel, A
Mihanovića 2, Krapinske T,
(049) 202 202; Hotel Minerva,
Trg slobode 1, Varaždinske T,
(042) 630 534.
n Stubičke T, V Šipeka 24,
(049) 282 727; Krapinske T,
Zagrebačka 4, (049) 232 106;
Terme Tuhelj, Gajeva 4, (049)
203 000; Sutinske T, (049)
466 627; Varaždinske T,
(042) 633 133.

Varaždin Decorated interior of the church of St Mary of the Snows, Belec
Ludbreg t Belec y Varaždinske
Map D1. * 500. @ from Zabok. Toplice
n Regional: D G Krambergera 1, Map D1. * 2,000. £ from Zagreb
Krapina, (049) 233 653. and Novi Marof. @ from Zagreb.
Novi Marof n Trg slobode 16, (042) 633 133.
Among the hills of Zagorje is ∑ toplice-vz.hr
the village of Belec, much loved
by art historians, because on its The waters that gush from a
outskirts is the small Church of sulphurous spring at the foot of
St George (Sv. Jurja), one of the the hill south of Varaždin were
few Romanesque buildings known to the Jasi, an Illyrian
preserved in inland Croatia. The tribe, in the 3rd century BC.
bell tower takes up nearly all The town was known as Aquae
of the façade (it resembles a Jasae by the Romans, and the
defensive tower rather than a spa rapidly developed, as shown
campanile). On the right is a by the numerous archaeological
small portico with two thin finds discovered here. The baths
columns. This leads to the were used until the area was
interior, where there is an ornate invaded by the Goths. Later, a
Gothic altar and interesting landslide buried the baths in
frescoes dating from the year mud and for centuries they
of its construction. were forgotten.
Lower down the hillside is the In the 12th century, under
Church of St Mary of the Snows the rule of the bishop of
(Sv. Marija Snježna), constructed Zagreb, a village was founded
by the Keglević family in 1674. with the name of Toplissa and
This church is considered a the inhabitants began to use
6 Varaždinske Toplice masterpiece of Croatian the hot water from the spring
The spa resort in Varaždinske Baroque, because of its once more. During the
Toplice is one of the oldest in sumptuously decorated and construction of the present-
Croatia. The first baths were set up ornamented interior. The day resort, the Roman town
by the Romans at the end of the monk and artist Ivan Ranger was rediscovered.
18th century and are still in use. (see p210) painted some of his Varaždinske Toplice also
The first public spa was opened trompe-l’œil masterpieces here, boasts a medieval district which
to the public in 1820. The thermal including Scenes from the Old includes a castle, part of which
waters are used to treat rheumatic Testament and Episodes of the houses a History Museum.
and orthopaedic conditions.
Virgin Mary’s Life. The church Inside a small fortress is the
also has a magnificent main parish church with an organ
altar, surrounded by cherubs from 1766 and two carved altars
0 km 5 and saints. made by Francesco Robba.
0 miles 5 In a nearby park is Seoska
R Church of St Mary Kuća, a 19th-century rural
of the Snows house with furniture and
Tel (049) 460 040. Open by appt. objects from the same era.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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218  CRO A TIA AREA B Y AREA


A significant event for the city
was the establishment in 1685 of
a Franciscan Monastery and the
church of St Anthony of Padua.
The monastery was a source of
culture and learning for the
whole region and it has resumed
this role in recent times.
Nearby is the Civic Museum
(Gradski muzej) with archae-
ological, historical and cultural
collections, and the Koprivnica
Gallery with a collection of Naive
works linked to the Hlebine
School (see p25). Next door, in a
Sanctuary dedicated to the Trinity, Ludbreg former old brewery, is the beer
hall Kraluš (see p249), much loved
u Ludbreg i Koprivnica by the locals.
Map D1. * 3,800. £ from Zagreb Map D1. * 25,000. £ Kolodvorska E Civic Museum
via Koprivnica or Varaždin. @ from 31, (060) 305 040. @ Zagrebačka Trg Leandera Brozovića 1. Tel (048)
Zagreb. n Trg sv. Trojstva 14, ulica, (048) 621 282. n Local: Trg 622 307. Open 8am–3pm, 6–9pm
(042) 810 690. _ Celebration of bana Jelačića 7, (048) 621 433; Mon–Fri; 10am–1pm Sat.
Miraculous Blood (1st Sun in Sep). Regional: Nemčićeva 5, (048) 624
∑ visitludbreg.hr 408. _ Podravski motivi, Naive E Koprivnica Gallery
art exhibition (first week of Jul); Zrinski trg 9/1. Tel (048) 622 564.
Many traces from the Roman Renaissance Festival (last weekend in Open 8am–3pm & 6–9pm Tue–Fri,
era, such as walls and baths, Aug). ∑ koprivnicatourism.com 10am–1pm Sat & Sun. &
have been found in this area.
In researching these finds, Koprivnica (originally known as Environs
some historians have identified Kukaproncza), was founded by Hlebine, 13 km (8 miles) east
Ludbreg as being the Roman the powerful Ernust family, and of Koprivnica, owes its fame to
site of Jovia. was a key trading centre for the the peasant painters fostered
The town later became one Podravina area as well as a royal by the artist Krsto Hegedušić. In
of the first bishop’s sees in city from 1356. It was burned the 1930s this group founded
inland Croatia. In 1411, during down by the Turks in the 16th the so-called Hlebine School
a mass, a priest saw the wine century, destroying one of (see p25) of Naive art: the core
in the chalice turn to blood Croatia’s first free towns. of a trend in painting which
and the town chapel where Slowly rebuilt in the 17th represented the landscape and
this miracle took place became century, the town took on a people of this region in a
a destination for pilgrims. In Baroque appearance with a wide simple and original way. Their
1513 Pope Leo X declared avenue flanked by the main work is exhibited in both the
Ludbreg the only Sanctuary buildings. At one end stands Hlebine Gallery and the
of the Trinity (Sv. Trojstvo) the 19th-century County Hall Koprivnica Gallery.
in Croatia. of Koprivnica and Križevci. There
The church, originally Gothic, are many Serbian immigrants E Hlebine Gallery
was altered in 1829, and now here, hence the Orthodox Church Trg Ivana Generalića 15.
features a Baroque altar and of the Holy Spirit (Sveti Duh), Tel (048) 836 075. Open 10am–4pm
frescoes by M Rački (1937). The dating from the late 18th century. Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat & Sun. &
portico is typical of churches of
pilgrimage and dates from 1779.
In 1739, Parliament voted to
build a large chapel dedicated
to the Precious Blood of Christ
here, in order to preserve the
miraculous chalice in an
appropriate place. The chapel
was not finally consecrated
until 1994.
A manor house in Baroque
and Classical style, built by
the Battahyany family in 1745,
today houses workshops
belonging to the Croatian
Restoration Institute. A work of Naive art of the Hlebine School in the Koprivnica Gallery
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p231 and pp248–9


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THE NOR THERN C OUNTIES  219


The town was later fortified
but after Turkish rule, only the
towers’ foundations and pieces
of the wall remained. The town
prospered with the arrival of
the railway in 1871.
The oldest building is the
medieval Church of the Holy
Cross (Sv. Križ), but only the
side doorway dates from
this period. The church was
restructured in the Baroque
style in the second half of the
18th century. The altar of the
The medieval castle in Ðurdevac, today housing a gallery Holy Cross was sculpted by
Francesco Robba in 1756 for
o Đurđevac Trinity and the barracks. The the cathedral in Zagreb.
town’s Civic Museum (Gradski The Greek Catholic Church
Map E1. * 6,500. £ Kolodvorska 21,
(048) 813 089. @ (048) 812 002. muzej) has an extensive and of the Holy Trinity (Sv. Trojstvo)
n Stjepana Radića 1, (048) 812 046. varied collection. has an iconostasis, frescoes
_ Đurđevo, City Day (23 Apr); by Celestin Medović and Ivan
Legend of the Picoki, culture and E Civic Museum Tišov from the early 19th
folklore show (last week of Jun). Trg Eugena Kvaternika 1. century, and a magnificent
∑ visitdjurdjevac.hr Tel (043) 244 207. Open 10am–7pm main altar. It was restored
Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm Sat & Sun. during the 19th century
Although the town’s name according to the drawings
derives from an ancient religious of the architect Herman Bollé.
building dedicated to St George The attached monastery
(Sv. Jurai), the town is now known became the Bishop’s Palace
for the Castle (Stari grad), whose (Biskupski dvor). It houses
ancient name is mentioned as paintings, icons, manuscripts
Wasserburg, meaning castle on and holy objects. The Civic
the water. In the Middle Ages Museum (Gradski muzej) has
the structure was much larger interesting archaeological
(excavations reveal a rectangular and art collections.
plan with a drawbridge and
tower). All that remains now is a E Church of the Holy Cross
roughly octagonal building with Ivana Dijankovečkog 1.
an internal courtyard. A gallery Tel (048) 711 711. Open by appt.
occupies the upper floor. P Bishop’s Palace
Tel (048) 712 171. Open by appt.
p Bjelovar E Civic Museum
Sermageova 2. Tel (048) 711 210.
Map D1. * 28,000. £ Masarykova The iconostasis in the Church of the Holy Open 10am–1pm Mon–Fri or
ulica, (043) 241 263. @ Masarykova Trinity, Križevci by appt. & 8
ulica, (043) 241 269. n Local: Trg a Križevci
Eugena Kvaternika 2, (043) 243 944;
Regional: Dr. Ante Starčevića 8, (043) Map D1. * 12,000. £ (048) 716 193.
221 928. _ Terezijana, cultural display n Trg J.J. Strossmayera 5, (048) 681
(Jun). ∑ turizam-bilogorabjelovar. 199. _ Križevačko veliko spravišče,
com.hr cultural and gastronomic event
(mid-Jun). ∑ tz-krizevci.hr
In the Middle Ages this was
a fort called Wellowar. It References to this town are
acquired greater status in found in acts from the early 12th
1756, when Maria Theresa of century. In 1252 it was declared
Austria built a fort here. It a royal free town, and at various
became a military town, and times it was chosen as the
was built on an octagonal meeting place for the Croatian
layout, centred around two parliament. During a meeting in
intersecting roads. These are 1397 certain nobles considered
now home to the Cathedral traitors to King Sigismund were
of St Theresa, schools, the massacred. Of these, one was the Altar by Francesco Robba in the church of
Orthodox church of the Holy Prince palatine, Stjepan Lacković. the Holy Cross, Križevci




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Date 15th November 2012
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Travellers’


needs





Where to Stay 222–231

Where to Eat and Drink 232–249
Shopping in Croatia 250–253
Entertainment in Croatia 254–257
Outdoor Activities 258–261















































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222  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Croatia is one of the boom destinations of backpacker hostels is also on the rise,
European tourism and accommodation and there are plenty of well-equipped,
facilities are going through a dynamic idyllically situated campsites along the
period of expansion and improvement. coast. Numerous tour operators and travel
This means that there is a great deal of agencies offer package holidays to different
choice available to visitors. There are plenty resorts in Croatia, but it is not difficult to
of modern hotels, apartments and holiday make your own travel arrangements.
villages, especially along the coast. Rooms Accommodation is best booked in advance,
and apartments rented privately by their and planning ahead is a good idea if you
owners represent a particularly inexpensive are intending to visit in the peak summer
option. The number of B&Bs and boutique months of June, July and August.

Prices
All accommodation prices
in Croatia are seasonal, with
the cheapest rates occurring
in winter and the most
expensive coinciding with
the high summer season –
which used to mean July
and August, but which is
now spreading to June and
September as well.
During the high season
accommodation in Croatia
can be just as expensive as
(if not more than) anywhere
“Birdcage” balcony, Lešić-Dimitri Palace hotel, Korčula (see p229) else in the Mediterranean –
especially in fashionable
Hotels of larger luxury hotels, including destinations such as Dubrovnik,
Tourism first boomed in Croatia several belonging to well-known Hvar and Split. Bargains might
in the 1970s and 1980s and international hotel chains. There be found in the shoulder
most of the hotels, particularly are also a growing number of seasons of April, May and
those in the resorts along the boutique and design hotels in October; and winter is in
coast, date from this period. fashionable destinations such general a more inexpensive
Facilities are generally up to as Dubrovnik, Split and Hvar. time to travel – although
modern standards although The facilities and services be aware that many hotels
decor and furnishings can offered by these hotels are of situated on the coast close
seem rather anonymous. Recent a very high standard, which is their doors for at least a few
years have seen many hotels reflected in the prices. months out of season.
renovated and upgraded,
providing a growing stock of
4- and 5-star accommodation.
Grand hotels erected in the
late 19th and early 20th century
can be found in Zagreb, the
capital, and in Opatija, in the
Kvarner gulf. Opatija became
a popular seaside resort at the
time of the Austro-Hungarian
Empire, when the Habsburg
aristocracy were regular visitors,
and it still has several hotels
dating from this time. They offer
a somewhat faded elegance
not found in the more modern
multistorey buildings along
the coast. Both Zagreb and
Dubrovnik also have a number Fresh* Sheets Kathedral Dubrovnik, overlooking a pretty square in Dubrovnik (see p228)




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WHERE T O ST A Y  223


represent an inexpensive
alternative to hotel
accommodation for those
travelling as a family or as a
group. Apartments usually
have a well-equipped kitchen
for those who want to self-
cater and there is usually a local
market or food shop nearby.
Private rooms and apartments
are frequently rented out
privately by their owners via
international booking sites like
Booking or Airbnb. They can
also be booked through the
various tourist agencies which
can be found in all the tourist
resorts. A tourist tax and commis-
Hotel Lone in Rovinj, Istria, a five-star option outside the major cities (see p227) sion are charged and in summer
landlords may require stays of a
Hotel Grading hotel restaurant food tends minimum of four nights.
Croatia has adopted the often to be based on rather Landladies and landlords
standard star system for standardized “international” often congregate at ferry
categorizing hotels common cooking, and may be lacking terminals and bus stations to
in other European countries, in local character. offer rooms to arriving tourists.
which ranges from one star, While this is a reasonably safe
awarded to the simplest sort way to secure a room, it is
of accommodation, to five Private Rooms essential to check the location
and Apartments
stars for a luxury hotel. and price before committing
The five-star category A good-value alternative to yourself in any way.
indicates hotels offering a staying in a hotel while in Croatia Otherwise you can seek out
high standard and a wide is to look for accommodation in accommodation yourself in the
range of services and facilities, privately rented rooms (privatne areas you would like to stay in
usually including spa and sobe) or apartments (apartmani). by looking out for signs reading
fitness facilities, a swimming Private rooms are usually sobe (Croatian for ‘rooms’),
pool and at least one gourmet doubles (single travellers may be Zimmer in German or camere
restaurant. There are not expected to pay the full double in Italian, hanging outside the
very many five-star hotels in price), and come in all shapes door. It is a good idea to begin
Croatia, and most of them are and sizes – the most expensive looking fairly early in the day.
in Dubrovnik and Zagreb. ones will have en-suite If you find somewhere you like,
Four-star hotels offer facilities bathrooms, but many will not. you can ask to be shown the
and services similar to those in Apartments come in all sizes room and, if you are happy
the five-star category, but the too, from 2-person studios to with what you see, you can
furnishings are less luxurious 6-person family flats, and arrange the terms and the
and more standardized and
there are fewer facilities.
Most of the hotels in Croatia
fall within the three-star
category, which indicates
hotels offering a good standard
of comfort. Two-star hotels are
generally cheaper and more
spartan in their furnishings
and offer fewer services.
It is common practice in
resort areas for hotels to offer
half-board (polupansion), with
the price including bed and
breakfast as well as another
meal (usually an evening meal).
Prices for half-board can be
very reasonable; often not
much more than you would
pay for just the room. However, Karmen’s self-contained apartments within a historic residence, Dubrovnik (see p228)




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224  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Bookings
The prevalence of Internet
booking sites means that it
is nowadays fairly easy to
organize hotel reservations
in Croatia yourself. However
places fill up quickly from June
through to September, so you
are advised to book well in
advance in order to be sure
of getting the accommodation
you want.
The Croatian National
Tourist Board (see p267)
can supply information on
The iconic Esplanade Zagreb Hotel (see p231) accommodation ahead of your
trip. Once you are in Croatia,
price of your stay. It may even All camp sites are open in the local tourist offices (there is one
be possible to negotiate the summer months of June, July, in every town) will either help
price, especially out of season. August and until the middle of you find a room or direct you to
Private rooms rarely come with September. However, it is best an accommodation agency that
breakfast, although you can to check with the campground can sort out your needs.
always ask if it is available – an directly if you are planning on
increasing number of renters going during May or late Disabled Travellers
are beginning to provide it. September, as the opening peri-
ods can vary from year to year. Care for the disabled in Croatia
Some of the loveliest camp is good, for the grim reason
B&Bs and Pensions
sites, situated as they are in that the numbers of disabled
The concept of the bed-and- hidden-away spots, are those people has risen here as a result
breakfast is relatively new in marked “FKK” (see p266), which of the 1991–95 war. However,
Croatia but there are an are for naturists only. despite renewed sympathy and
increasing number of them Camping outside designated consideration, it is taking time
in Zagreb, on the coast, and in areas is prohibited in Croatia, to improve disabled access to
national park areas where rural so do not be tempted to stop buildings such as hotels and
tourism is on the increase. overnight in the woods or restaurants. Many hotels can
Usually these offer simply forests, on the beaches or in be unsuitable for persons with
furnished rooms in family any areas not specifically restricted mobility.
houses, although some B&Bs reserved for campers. As a general rule, hotels
are swish affairs, almost on the of four stars or above will
level of boutique hotels. Hostels have facilities for the disabled;
Pensions (pansion) are small cheaper places will probably
family-run hotels that offer There are a growing number of not. For further information,
breakfast, and possibly half- backpacker hostels in Croatia, contact Hrvatski Savez
or full board as well. most of which offer cheap, Udruga Tjelesnih Invalida,
simple dorm accommodation the Association of Disabled
in fun, informal surroundings. Organizations of Croatia
Camp Sites A bed in a hostels can be booked (see p267) or RADAR in the UK.
There are plenty of camp sites via the hostel’s own website or
in Croatia, ranging from small, on specialist websites such as
family-run sites with a few Hostelworld. Many hostels Lighthouses
pitches under the olive trees to offer double rooms, triples and A delightful and unusual
large camps with facilities such quads as well as dorms, and accommodation option in
as sports grounds, restaurants these are increasingly popular Croatia is a stay in one of
and shops. Many Croatian camp with couples and families who the lighthouses which stand
sites are located in woods by enjoy the social aspects of on isolated points along the
the sea, so you can keep cool backpacker culture but who coast. Lighthouses, which
under shady trees on summer want their own room. Some usually contain one or two
days. While there is a wide choice hostels have invested a lot of apartments, are often situated
of sites on the Adriatic coast money in contemporary design on uninhabited islets, and
and islands, there are far fewer and comforts, and are similar in will suit those who require
camp sites inland. Kamping style to small boutique hotels. solitude, unspoilt nature
Udruženje Hrvatske (the Breakfast is available at some, and unimpeded sea views.
Croatian Camping Union) has but not all, Croatian hostels – Several agencies deal with
useful directories on its website. check when booking. lighthouse accommodation;




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WHERE T O ST A Y  225

Recommended Hotels
they will supply you with
boat transfer and provisions The hotels listed on the
for the duration of your stay. following pages have been
For more information and chosen for a wide range of
bookings, contact Lighthouses reasons and criteria. All are
of Croatia or Atlas. representative of their context,
Of the more famous light- be that bustling Split, fairy-tale
houses, Savudrija is 9 km Dubrovnik, the beach resorts of
(5 miles) from Umag, and is the Adriatic coast or the quaint
the oldest lighthouse in the ports of the Dalmatian islands.
Adriatic, built in an ideal spot Each has earned a reputation
for windsurfers. for hospitality and charm.
Sveti Ivan na pučini is The listings cover all kinds of
situated on an island which accommodation, from simple
is part of the archipelago off farmhouses to spawling resorts,
Rovinj, which is 3.5 km (2 miles) View from the Hotel Mozart, Opatija, chosen family B&Bs to contemporary
away. It is ideal for those who for its historic ambience (see p227) design hotels and luxurious
love fishing or diving. palaces. A warm welcome earns
The Porer lighthouse, on The lighthouse of Sušac was plenty of points, as do little
the island of the same name, built in 1878 on the island of the extras like coffee- and tea-
is 20 km (12 miles) from Pula. same name, 40 km (25 miles) making facilities, and allowing
It offers truly spectacular views from Hvar. It stands 100 m guests use of the kitchen.
and is in a particularly isolated (328 ft) above sea level and The DK Choice label means
position. Tajer, situated 28 km offers a wonderful view of the the hotel is in some way
(17 miles) south of Zadar, was open sea. It is possible to outstanding. It may be in
built in 1876. It comprises a scuba dive near the rocks at beautiful surroundings, offer a
stone building and an iron the southern end of the island. spectacular outlook, occupy
tower and offers panoramic The lighthouse of Palagruža a landmark building, provide
views of Kornati Islands. Veli is situated 68 km (42 miles) outstanding service, radiate
Rat stands among pine trees from Split, between the Italian romance or be particularly
on the northwestern and Croatian coasts, while on charming, have a great spa, or a
promontory on the island of the island of Lastovo, 80 km noteworthy sustainable outlook.
Dugi Otok, 35 km (22 miles) (50 miles) from Split, is the Whatever the reason, it is a
from Zadar, while at the entrance Struga lighthouse, dating from guarantee of an especially
to the port of Makarska, near 1839. This is a great location for memorable stay.
one of the most beautiful those who love fishing.
beaches in the Adriatic, stands The Sveti Andrija lighthouse DIRECTORY
the Sveti Petar lighthouse. stands on the island of the same
Pločica is situated on the name and is 10 km (6 miles) Internet Booking Sites
island of the same name, from Dubrovnik. Finally, there
which lies between the islands is Prišnjak lighthouse on the Airbnb
of Hvar and Korčula and the island of Murter, surrounded ∑ airbnb.com
Pelješac peninsula. by a thick pine wood.
Booking
∑ booking.com
Hostelworld
∑ hostelworld.com
Camping Websites

Kamping Udruženje
Hrvatske (Croatian
Camping Union)
∑ camping.hr
Lighthouses
Atlas
∑ atlas.hr
Lighthouses of Croatia
∑ lighthouses-croatia.com
Modern and minimalist, but set in a Roman palace: the Vestibul Palace, Split (see p230)




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226  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

seen at this delightful hotel on Price Guide
Istria and the the harbourfront. Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Kvarner Area high season for a standard double room,
Iinclusive of service charges and taxes.
DK Choice
BUZET: Hotel Vela Vrata   up to 800 kuna
Boutique Road Map B2 LOŠINJ:  800–1300 kuna
Šetalište Vladimira Gortana 7 Vitality Hotel Punta   over 1300 kuna
Tel (052) 494 750 Spa Road Map B3
∑ velavrata.net Šestavine 17, Veli Lošinj LOVRAN: Bristol 
This lovely hotel at the gates of Tel (051) 662 000 Historic Road Map B2
Buzet’s hilltop Old Town has ∑ losinj-hotels.com Šetalište maršala Tita 27
snug rooms and modern fittings. Built on rocks overlooking the Tel (051) 710 444
Closed Jan & Feb. sea, and backed by fragrant ∑ remisens.com
pines, this is a well-equipped Bristol is attractive late 19th-
BUZET: Kotli  and soothing resort hotel. century wedding-cake of a
Historic Road Map B2 The fishing harbour of Veli building on the promenade
Kotli Lošinj lies 5 minutes’ walk in and has high-ceilinged rooms.
Tel (098) 228 432 one direction; the resort town
∑ istra-kotli.com of Mali Lošinj is 20 minutes MOTOVUN: Hotel Kaštel 
This street of stone houses in the away in the other. Punta’s other Boutique Road Map A2
village of Kotli, a protected cultural main attribute is the on-site Trg Andrea Antico 7
heritage complex 13 km (8 miles) spa centre, which offers a pool, Tel (052) 681 607
from Buzet, have been converted massage facilities and a variety ∑ hotel-kastel-motovun.hr
into atmospheric family-sized of beauty treatments and Offering a warren of cosy rooms,
apartments with good facilities. exercise programmes. this restored 17th-century town
house is set in the heart of a
CRES: Kimen  beautiful hill-town.
Resort Road Map B3 LOŠINJ:
Melin 1/16 Wellness Hotel Aurora  OPATIJA:
Tel (051) 573 305 Resort Road Map B3 Palace-Bellevue 
∑ hotel-kimen.com Sunčana uvala 4, Mali Lošinj Historic Road Map B2
A large but welcoming hotel, Tel (051) 667 200 Maršala Tita 144
Kimen has lots of facilities and live ∑ losinj-hotels.com Tel (051) 710 444
music nightly. Closed Nov–Mar. This large, well-organized beach- ∑ remisens.com
front hotel has a range of This hotel’s two impressive
CRIKVENICA: Hotel Kaštel  facilities and beauty treatments. 19th-century buildings stand
Resort Road Map B2 next to the main beach. The
Frankopanska 22 LOŠINJ: Bellevue  rooms are simple but the social
Tel (051) 241 044 Luxury Road Map B3 areas – all marble columns and
∑ jadran-crikvenica.hr Čikat 9, Mali Lošinj chandeliers – are wonderful.
Stay in simple rooms at this former Tel (051) 231 268
14th-century monastery, right by ∑ losinj-hotels.com OPATIJA: Galeb 
the river and close to the beach. Offering excellent standards of Historic Road Map B2
service , Bellevue is a superbly Maršala Tita 160
KRK: Valamar Koralj  equipped five-star hotel. Located Tel (051) 271 177
Resort Road Map B3 within close proximity to the ∑ hotel-galeb.hr
V. Tomašića bb beaches of Čikat Bay. A lovely little hotel in the centre
Tel (052) 465 120 of town, Galeb houses clean,
∑ valamar.com/hr/hoteli-krk good-sized rooms with sea views.
Comfortable rooms and plenty of Closed Nov–Apr.
on-site facilities are offered at this
large hotel, close to a beautiful bay. OPATIJA: Villa Ariston 
Boutique Road Map B2
KRK: Marina  Maršala Tita 179
Boutique Road Map B3 Tel (051) 271 379
Obala hrvatske mornarice 8 ∑ villa-ariston.hr
Tel (051) 221 128 Grand in architecture and cosy in
∑ hotelmarina.hr atmosphere, this seaside villa is a
Set on the pretty harbourfront, relaxing upscale choice.
this charming, well-run hotel has
a café-restaurant terrace that’s OPATIJA:
perfect for people-watching. Hotel Milenij 
Luxury Road Map B2
LOŠINJ: Apoksiomen  Maršala Tita 109
Boutique Road Map B3 Tel (051) 278 007
Riva lošinjskih kapetana 1 ∑ milenijhoteli.com
Tel (051) 520 820 Set in impressive sea-front
∑ apoksiomen.com buildings, this hotel has a lovely
An understated sense of style Large and modern, with plenty of facilities: ground-floor café and offers
and attention to detail can be Wellness Hotel Aurora, Lošinj spa facilities.
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WHERE T O ST A Y  227

RIJEKA: Neboder 
Historic Road Map B3
J.J. Strossmayera 1
Tel (051) 373 538
∑ jadran-hoteli.hr
Built in the 1930s, this slender
grey slab is a modernist classic.
Rooms are masterpieces of
minimalist design.
RIJEKA: Grand Hotel Bonavia 
Luxury Road Map B3
Dolac 4
Tel (051) 357 100
Harbour views, Hotel Marina, Krk ∑ bonavia.hr
Offering top-notch service, the
OPATIJA: Hotel Mozart  PULA: usual facilities and an excellent
Luxury Road Map B2 Hotel Park Plaza Histria  restaurant, this upmarket,
Maršala Tita 138 Resort Road Map A3 business-oriented hotel is set
Tel (051) 718 260 Verudela 17 right in the centre of town.
∑ hotel-mozart.hr Tel (052) 590 000
Beautifully restored, this 19th- ∑ arenaturist.com RIJEKA: Jadran 
century building features replica This large and well-equipped Luxury Road Map B3
period furnishings. resort hotel is surrounded by Šetalište XIII divizije 46
charming pebble beaches. Tel (051) 216 600
PLITVICE: Plitvice  ∑ jadran-hoteli.hr
Resort Road Map C3 PULA: Hotel Valsabbion  This elegant modernist building
Plitvička jezera Boutique Road Map A3 is right on the sea. Many of the
Tel (053) 751 200 Pješčana uvala IX/26 large refurbished rooms come
∑ np-plitvicka-jezera.hr Tel (052) 218 033 with expansive sea views.
This smart and comfortable hotel ∑ valsabbion.hr
is set in the Plitvice National Park, A smart, characterful, family-run ROVINJ: Hotel Adriatic 
and has a range of on-site facilities. hotel, Valsabbion has tasteful Historic Road Map A3
rooms and an intimate spa Obala Pina Budicina 16
POREČ: Laguna Parentium  centre on site. Tel (052) 800 250
Resort Road Map A2 ∑ maistra.com/adriatic_rovinj
Zelena Laguna RAB: Grand Hotel Imperial  Occupying a 19th-century
Tel (052) 411 500 Historic Road Map B3 building right by the harbour,
∑ lagunaporec.com Palit bb this is Rovinj’s oldest hotel
Situated on its own peninsula Tel (051) 667 788 and still makes for a charming,
amid shady pines, this large ∑ imperialrab.com town-centre pied-à-terre.
hotel, oriented towards adults, Originally built by the Habsburgs,
has a wealth of spa, sport and this is a lovely but not too gaudy ROVINJ: Park 
relaxation options. hotel, surrounded by greenery. Resort Road Map A3
I.M. Ronjgova 11
POREČ: RAB: Padova  Tel (052) 800 250
Valamar Club Tamaris  Resort Road Map B3 ∑ maistra.com/park_rovinj
Resort Road Map A2 Banjol bb A short walk from the Old Town,
Lanterna 6 Tel (051) 667 788 this hotel is situated above the
Tel (052) 401 000 ∑ imperialrab.com seaside promenade and offers
∑ valamar.com A large, modern hotel beside Rab’s wellness and spa services, as well
A self-contained complex, marina, Padova offers a wide range as indoor and outdoor pools.
10 km (6 miles) out of Poreč, with of facilities and excellent views of
some lovely pebble beaches. the Old Town across the bay.
DK Choice
PULA: Hotel Riviera  RABAC: Albona  ROVINJ: Hotel Lone 
Historic Road Map A3 Resort Road Map B3 Luxury Road Map A3
Splitska 1 Rabac bb Luje Adamovića 31
Tel (052) 211 166 Tel (052) 465 120 Tel (052) 800 250
∑ arenaturist.com ∑ valamar.com ∑ lonehotel.com
A glorious 19th-century building This is Rabac’s most versatile A design hotel that lives up to its
that has been little altered inside resort hotel, with plenty of child- billing, this uber-contemporary
– the high-ceilinged rooms are ren’s facilities and views out to sea. hotel lies above Lone Bay. Every
simple and inexpensive. detail of the interior is the work
RABAC: Villa Annette  of Croatian designers and
PULA: Hotel Scaletta  Boutique Road Map B3 artists, from the abstract
Boutique Road Map A3 Raška 24 sculptures and wall hangings
Flavijevska 26 Tel (052) 884 222 right down to the staff
Tel (052) 541 599 ∑ villa-annette.com uniforms. The rooms are well
∑ hotel-scaletta.com A modernist villa set on a hillside appointed and the social areas,
This tastefully decorated family-run overlooking the shore, this friendly grouped around a spiral
hotel is located just up the road place is an appealing alternative stairway, are a joy to use.
from Pula’s famous amphitheatre. to the huge resort hotels.
For more information on types of hotels see pp222–5
226-231_EW_Croatia.indd 227 20/10/16 12:29 pm

228  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ROVINJ: Monte Mulini  is hard to beat for charm, setting DUBROVNIK:
Luxury Road Map A3 and value. Closed Nov–Mar. The Pucić Palace 
A. Smareglia 3 Luxury Road Map F6
Tel (052) 800 250 DUBROVNIK: Adriatic  Od Puča 1
∑ montemulinihotel.com Resort Road Map F6 Tel (020) 326 222
This smart, well-appointed and Masarykov put 9 ∑ thepucicpalace.com
perfectly situated five-star over- Tel (020) 433 609 Set in a 17th-century palace
looks the beaches of Lone Bay. A good-value hotel, Adriatic is over looking the Old Town’s
situated just above Lapad Bay, market, this is Adriatic luxury
UMAG: with its pebble beach, 4 km and atmosphere at its best.
Kempinski Hotel Adriatic  (2 miles) from the Old Town.
Luxury Road Map A2 DUBROVNIK: Stari Grad 
Alberi 300A, Savudrija DUBROVNIK: Karmen  Boutique Road Map F6
Tel (052) 707 000 B&B Road Map F6 Od Sigurate 4
∑ kempinski.com Bandureva 1 Tel (020) 322 244
Right beside the Slovene border, Tel (020) 323 433 ∑ hotelstarigrad.com
this chic hotel comes with ∑ karmendu.com This intimate (8-room) designer
superb facilities, and there is Housed in one of the Old Town’s hotel is ideally situated in the Old
an 18-hole golf course nearby. most atmospheric corners, Town; stunning views from its
Karmen has comfortable rooftop restaurant. Closed mid-
VRSAR: Petalon  apartments that are attractively Nov–Feb.
Resort Road Map A3 furnished with antiques.
Petalon 5 DUGI OTOK: Hotel Lavanda 
Tel (052) 800 250 Resort Road Map C4
∑ maistra.com/petalon_vrsar DK Choice Božava bb
A self-contained hotel situated on DUBROVNIK: Fresh* Sheets Tel (023) 291 291
a peninsula with pebble beaches, Kathedral Dubrovnik  ∑ hoteli-bozava.hr
Petalon has an impressive range B&B Road Map F6 This complex overlooking the sea,
of sport and recreational facilities. Bunićeva poljana 6 has excellent sports facilities and
Tel (091) 896 7509 lots of surrounding greenery.
∑ freshsheetsbedandbreakfast.
com HVAR: Adriatiq Resort Fontana 
Dalmatia Occupying a unique position Resort Road Map D5
behind the cathedral, in a Vitarnja bb, Jelsa
BRAČ: historic church-owned building, Tel (021) 761 810
Bluesun Hotel Elaphusa  Fresh* Sheets offers a mixture of ∑ resortfontana-adriatiq.com
Resort Road Map D5 double rooms, family suites and On a hillside, this complex is
Put Zlatnog rata 46, Bol apartments, equipped with minutes away from pebbly
Tel (021) 306 200 modern fittings and allowing beaches and the town of Jelsa.
∑ hotelelaphusabrac.com plenty of natural light. Breakfast
Facilities here include sporting can be enjoyed in the square HVAR: Palace 
activities and beauty treatments. below. The experience of Historic Road Map D5
Set in a pine wood, not far from waking up in the middle of Trg svetog Stjepana 5
the beaches and the town. Dubrovnik before the tour groups Tel (021) 741 966
have arrived is wonderful. ∑ suncanihvar.com
BRAČ: Villa Adriatica  The oldest hotel in Hvar, Palace has
Boutique Road Map D5 modernized rooms set behind
Put Vele Luke 31, Supetar DUBROVNIK: Excelsior  the town’s colonnaded loggia.
Tel (021) 755 010 Luxury Road Map F6
∑ villaadriatica.com Frana Supila 12 HVAR: Amfora 
A chic family-run alternative to Tel (020) 300 300 Resort Road Map D5
the big resort hotels, Adriatica has ∑ www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com Jurja Dubokovića 5
a pool and hot tub. Located in a This top-of-the-market historic Tel (021) 750 300
quiet neighbourhood minutes hotel is perched on a cliff near ∑ suncanihvar.com
from the seafront. Closed Oct–Apr. Old Town, with a private beach A large resort hotel along the bay
and magnificent views. from Hvar town, Amfora boasts
BRAČ: Bluesun Hotel Borak 
Resort Road Map D5
Put Zlatnog rata 42, Bol
Tel (021) 306 202
∑ brachotelborak.com
One of the better, large resort
hotels on Brač, it is set among
cypresses near Bol’s famous
beaches and windsurfing bases.
CAVTAT: Hotel Supetar 
Historic Road Map F6
Obala A. Starčevića 27
Tel (020) 300 300
∑ adriaticluxuryhotels.com
In an old stone house right on
Cavtat’s lovely harbourfront, this Cool rooms and sea views, Monte Mulini, Rovinj
Key to Price Guide see p226
226-231_EW_Croatia.indd 228 20/10/16 12:29 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  229

unfussy, good-value rooms and
some excellent facilities.
PAG: Pagus 
Resort Road Map C4
Ante Starčevića 1
Tel (023) 611 310
∑ hotel-pagus.hr
Stretching along a pebble beach,
this hotel has large rooms and
lovely sea views.
PRIMOŠTEN:
Adriatiq Hotel Zora 
Resort Road Map D5
Elegantly furnished room, Excelsior Hotel, Dubrovnik Raduča 11
Tel (022) 570 048
chic rooms, a pebble beach and MAKARSKA: Biokovo  ∑ hotelzora-adriatiq.com
all modern conveniences. Historic Road Map E5 Nestled in a thick blanket of
Obala kralja Tomislava 14 pines and cypresses, this resort-
HVAR: Hotel Podstine  Tel (021) 615 244 style complex offers plenty of
Boutique Road Map D5 ∑ holidaymakarska.com amenities and is good for families.
Put Podstina 11 Some rooms at this intimate
Tel (021) 740 400 hotel in the heart of Makarska ŠIBENIK: Solaris Lifestyle
∑ podstine.com overlook the lively harbourfront. Hotel Jure 
Perched above the sea some 1 km Resort Road Map D5
(half a mile) round the bay from MAKARSKA: Hotel Meteor  Solaris
the town, this contemporary hotel Resort Road Map E5 Tel (022) 361 001
has a charming boutique feel. Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 19 ∑ solarishotelsresort.com
Tel (021) 564 200 This beachside hotel in the
KORČULA: Bon Repos  ∑ hoteli-makarska.hr Solaris resort is set in park-like
Resort Road Map E6 This ziggurat-like classic of grounds. It has a spa and an
Dubrovačka cesta 19 Adriatic modernism is right on outdoor swimming-pool complex.
Tel (020) 726 880 the seafront promenade, with a
∑ korcula-hotels.com wealth of on-site faciities. ŠIBENIK: Solaris Beach
This large hotel is located in Hotel Jakov 
idyllic surroundings, some METKOVIĆ: Villa Neretva  Resort Road Map D5
distance from the Old Town but B&B Road Map E6 Solaris
on the sea. The rooms are simple Splitska 14, Krvavac Tel (022) 361 001
and have been refurbished. Tel (020) 672 200 ∑ solarishotelsresort.com
∑ hotel-villa-neretva.com This family-oriented hotel in the
KORČULA: Set among the mandarin Solaris complex, 6 km (3 miles)
Korčula De La Ville  orchards of the Neretva delta, this from town, offers ample facilities
Historic Road Map E6 family-run pension offers cosy and beach access.
Obala dr. Franje Tuđmana 5 rooms above a famous restaurant.
Tel (020) 726 900 ŠOLTA: Martinis Marchi 
∑ korcula-hotels.com MLJET: Hotel Odisej  Luxury Road Map D5
This elegant pre-World War I Resort Road Map E6 Put svetog Nikole 51, Maslinica
hotel on the harbourfront has Pomena bb Tel (021) 572 768
comfortable rooms. The ground- Tel 020 300 300 ∑ martinis-marchi.com
floor café has one of the best ∑ adriaticluxuryhotels.com Enjoy pampered luxury in this
terraces on the Adriatic. Ideal for exploring the lakes and restored castle, with spacious
forests of Mljet National Park, this suites grouped that are around
DK Choice modern hotel has a beach and a courtyard swimming pool.
good sports facilities too.
KORČULA: DK Choice
Lešić-Dimitri Palace  OREBIĆ: Aminess Grand
Boutique Road Map E6 Azur Hotel  SPLIT: Goli&Bosi 
Don Pavla Poše 1–6 Resort Road Map E6 Hostel Road Map D5
Tel (021) 715 560 Kralja Petra Krešimira IV 107 Morpurgova poljana 2
∑ lesic-dimitri.com Tel (052) 858 600 Tel (021) 510 999
A handful of luxury apartments, ∑ aminess.com ∑ gollybossy.com
occup this row of carefully Set on a woodland beach, this is A converted department store is
restored houses, in one of a large hotel with a wide range of home to this design hostel, char-
central Korčula’s atmospheric, activities and sporting facilities. acterized by its yellow, white and
stepped alleyways. Each black colour scheme. Dorm beds
apartment has a fully equipped OREBIĆ: Hotel Bellevue  take the form of semi-private
kitchen and contemporary Resort Road Map E6 cubicles; en-suite doubles and
bathroom facilities. Breakfast is Obala pomoraca 36 top-floor family rooms are also
served on the seafront a short Tel (020) 713 193 on offer. The hostel’s café-
distance away. The friendly staff ∑ orebic-hotels.hr restaurant spreads out into the
attend to every detail. A stone’s throw from a broad neighbouring piazza in summer.
pebble beach, Bellevue offers
For more information on types of hotels see pp222–5
226-231_EW_Croatia.indd 229 20/10/16 12:29 pm

230  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


DK Choice
ZADAR: Iadera 
Spa Road Map C4
Punta Skala, Petrčane
Tel (023) 555 601
∑ falkensteiner.com
Located 10 km (6 miles) north of
Zadar just outside the unspoiled
seaside village of Petrčane, this
luxury spa hotel offers the full
range of state-of-the-art facilities,
with indoor pools, numerous
therapeutic programmes and
plenty of beauty treatments. The
A modern temple to wellbeing: Hotel Iadera, on the coast just outside Zadar hotel grounds include a pine
forest and grassy lawns. A pebbly
SPLIT: Hotel Peristil  VIS: Dionis  beach is a short walk away.
Boutique Road Map D5 B&B Road Map D6
Poljana kraljice Jelene 5 Matije Gubca 1
Tel (021) 329 070 Tel (021) 711 963
∑ hotelperistil.com ∑ dionis.hr
Peristil has a wonderful location This family-run B&B, above a Zagreb
in the heart of Split’s Diocletian’s pizzeria, has snug rooms, many of
Palace. Some rooms have them with sloping attic ceilings. ZAGREB: Hostel Shappy 
ancient stonework. Hostel Road Map D2
VIS: Issa  Varšavska 8
SPLIT: Radisson Blu Resort Resort Road Map D6 Tel (01) 483 04 83
Split  Šetalište Apolonija Zanelle 5 ∑ hostel-shappy.com
Resort Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 164 In the centre of town, Shappy
Put Trstenika 19 ∑ hotelsvis.com is a smart and soothing hostel
Tel (021) 303 030 Overlooking pebbly beaches on with dorms, double rooms
∑ radissonblu.com/resort-split the fringes of Vis town, the Issa and quads.
This resort is 3 km (2 miles) east has a wealth of sporting facilities.
of the centre and has a pebble ZAGREB: Studio Kairos 
beach and well-appointed rooms. VIS: Hotel San Giorgio  B&B Road Map D2
Boutique Road Map D6 Vlaška 92
SPLIT: Vestibul Palace  Petra Hektorovića 2 Tel (01) 464 06 80
Boutique Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 362 ∑ studio-kairos.com
Iza Vestibula 4 ∑ hotelsangiorgiovis.com A cosy B&B with small, artistically
Tel (021) 329 329 An old stone house in a narrow furnished rooms, each themed
∑ vestibulpalace.com alley, San Giorgio features cosy around Zagreb’s history.
This spectacular hotel combines modern rooms and a walled
modern design with Roman stone- orchard garden. Closed Nov–Mar. ZAGREB: Hotel Palace 
work, in Diocletian’s former palace. Historic Road Map D2
VIS: Hotel Tamaris  Trg J.J. Strossmayera 10
STON: Hotel Ostrea  Historic Road Map D6 Tel (01) 489 96 00
B&B Road Map E6 Obala sv. Jurja 20 ∑ palace.hr
Mali Ston Tel (021) 711 164 This elegant pre-World War I
Tel (020) 754 555 ∑ hotelsvis.com townhouse features retro furnish-
∑ ostrea.hr This 19th-century villa is set right ings and Art Deco design touches.
Afamily-run hotel on the harbour, on the harbour. High-ceilinged
Ostrea has large rooms, great rooms and a lively first-floor café. ZAGREB: Sheraton Zagreb 
service and a fabulous restaurant. Luxury Road Map D2
ZADAR: Boutique Hostel Kneza Borne 2
TROGIR: Hotel Concordia  Forum  Tel (01) 455 35 35
B&B Road Map D5 Hostel Road Map C4 ∑ hotel-sheratonzagreb.com
Obala bana Berislavića 22 Široka 20 A 10 minutes’ walk from the
Tel (021) 885 400 Tel (023) 250 705 main square, this international
∑ concordia-hotel.net ∑ hostelforumzadar.com chain hotel has the standards
This impressive 18th-century Offering designer interiors and of comfort and service you
town house offers snug rooms several private double rooms, this would expect.
and attentive service. is one of the new super-hostels.
ZAGREB: The Westin
TROGIR: Villa Sikaa  ZADAR: Club Funimation Zagreb 
B&B Road Map D5 Borik  Luxury Road Map D2
Obala kralja Zvonimira 13 Resort Road Map C4 Izidora Kršnjavog 1
Tel (021) 881 223 Majstora Radovana 7 Tel (01) 489 20 00
∑ vila-sikaa-r.com Tel (023) 555 600 ∑ westinzagreb.com
Set on the waterfront opposite ∑ falkensteiner.com This plush, well-equipped five-
the Old Town, this small hotel This family-oriented hotel just west star, in a superb location, towers
has spacious rooms and friendly, of the town has sports facilities, above an open plaza in the
helpful staff. crèches and a pebble beach. Lower Town.
Key to Price Guide see p226
226-231_EW_Croatia.indd 230 20/10/16 12:29 pm

WHERE T O ST A Y  231

SAMOBOR: Hotel Livadić  OSIJEK: Hotel Waldinger 
DK Choice Historic Road Map C2 Historic Road Map F2
ZAGREB: Esplanade Trg kralja Tomislava 1 Županijska 8
Zagreb Hotel  Tel (01) 336 5850 Tel (031) 250 450
Historic Road Map D2 ∑ hotel-livadic.hr ∑ waldinger.hr
Mihanovićeva 1 This delightful hotel on a charming Burgundy-hued rooms with
Tel (01) 456 66 66 square features antique furnish- modern bathrooms are
∑ esplanade.hr ings and has a lovely café. housed in a 19th-century city-
Opened in 1925 as a haven for centre building.
passengers on the Orient Express,
the prestigious and uber-stylish ŠPIŠIĆ BUKOVICA:
Esplanade Zagreb Hotel is an Slavonia and Baranja Hotel Mozart 
architectural gem. Within easy B&B Road Map E2
reach of attractions such as the Kinkovo bb
cathedral and the Art Pavilion, DK Choice Tel (033) 801 000
the city’s most iconic hotel com- ∑ hotelmozart.hr
bines Art Deco glamour with BILJE: Crvendać  This country-house hotel in the
every contemporary amenity. B&B Road Map F2 the countryside offers luxury in
Biljske satnije 5 idyllic, unspoilt surroundings.
Tel (031) 750 264, 091 551 5711
∑ crvendac.com VUKOVAR: Hotel Lav 
This welcoming, family-run Luxury Road Map G2
Central Croatia B&B is set in the tranquil J.J. Strossmayera 18
Baranja village, just north of Tel (032) 445 100
ČIGOĆ: Tradicije Čigoć  Osijek. Set in a well-tended ∑ hotel-lav.hr
B&B Road Map D2 garden, Crvendać (Robin This smart, modern hotel offers
Čigoć 7a Redbreast) features a charming four-star rooms, exceptional
Tel (044) 715 124 red-white colour scheme that service and a riverside location.
∑ tradicije-cigoc.hr runs throughout the rooms
This traditional wooden house in and communal areas. The
the heart of Lonjsko Polje Nature owner rents out bikes, perfect
Park, has cosy rustic rooms with for exploring the Kopački Rit The Northern
mod cons. Nature Park nearby. Counties
KARLOVAC: Hotel Korana KRAPINSKE TOPLICE:
Srakovčić  DARUVAR: Balise  Villa Magdalena 
Luxury Map C2 B&B Road Map E2 Spa Road Map D1
Perivoosipa Vrbanića 8 Trg kralja Tomislava 22 Mirna ulica 1
Tel (047) 609 090 Tel (043) 440 220 Tel (049) 233 333
∑ hotelkorana.hr ∑ hotel-balise.hr ∑ villa-magdalena.net
A grand villa, the Korana offers Balise is a small, centrally located The Jacuzzis in every room and
style, sophistication and plenty hotel with simply furnished but the spa in this award-winning,
of sports facilities. comfy air-conditioned rooms. intimate wellness hotel are fed
by thermal waters.
KRAPJE: Ekoetno Selo Strug  ILOK: Villa Iva 
B&B Road Map D2 B&B Road Map G2 TRAKOŠĆAN: Trakošćan 
Plesmo 26 Stjepana Radića 23 Resort Road Map D1
Tel (044) 611 215 Tel (032) 591 011 Trakošćan bb
∑ ekoetno-selo-strug.hr ∑ villa-iva-ilok.com Tel (042) 440 800
These modern bungalows The Villa Iva has neat, bright rooms ∑ hotel-trakoscan.hr
are decked out in traditional grouped around a lovely arcaded Located right next to Trakošćan
country style. courtyard, in the centre of this Castle and its lake, this modern
small wine-producing town. hotel comes with plenty of
sports facilities.
OSIJEK: Vienna Apartments 
B&B Road Map F2 TUHELJSKE TOPLICE:
Radićeva 26a Hotel Well 
Tel (031) 214 026 Spa Road Map C1
∑ vienna-smjestaj.com Ljudevita Gaja 4
Small but cosy, fully equipped Tel (049) 203 750
rooms are offered in a quiet ∑ terme-tuhelj.hr
courtyard, off a lively café- Plush rooms and modern
lined street. architecture are on offer at this
welcoming hotel.
OSIJEK: Hotel Osijek 
Luxury Road Map F2 VARAŽDIN: Pansion Garestin 
Šamačka 4 B&B Road Map D1
Tel (031) 230 333 Zagrebačka 34
∑ hotelosijek.hr Tel (042) 214 314
This large modern hotel towers ∑ gastrocom-ugostiteljstvo.com
above the Drava waterfront. It Discover simple but well-equipped
Hotel Vestibul Palace, Split, set in an features smart, spacious rooms rooms above a restaurant, 10 min-
imperial Roman residence and spa facilities. utes’ away from the town centre.
For more information on types of hotels see pp222–5
226-231_EW_Croatia.indd 231 20/10/16 12:29 pm

232  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Food in Croatia is very varied, from the fresh flavoured, goulash-style dishes predominate.
fish and seafood found along the coast to the Pasta dishes and pizza (with a thin base, in
Central European staples such as veal, pork the Italian style) feature virtually everywhere.
and poultry offered in inland Croatia. Proximity Wherever you eat, fresh produce and locally
to the Balkans ensures that grilled meats and sourced ingredients are the rule. Croatian
savoury pastries are always to be found too. specialities include sheep’s milk cheese (paški
Croatia’s coastal areas offer an extraordinarily sir) from Pag, home-cured ham (pršut), and
rich and healthy Mediterranean cuisine, with truffles from Istria. Prices are generally lower
fish, octopus and squid joining lamb, fresh than elsewhere in western Europe, making
vegetables and olive oil. In the east, paprika- eating out in Croatia even more appealing.


and so you should be able to
predict roughly how much you
will be spending. The choice of
fish and seafood on offer will vary
daily depending on the catch.
Wine is often drunk with
restaurant meals in Croatia
(for an overview of Croatia’s
wines, see pp236–7), but it is
very common for restaurants
to serve a drink called bevanda,
a mixture of wine and water,
or gemišt, a mix of sparkling
mineral water and wine. The
Modern dining in a glass pavilion at Bevanda, Opatija local wine and water will be
brought to the table separately
Taverns and Restaurants Asian restaurants (especially for you to mix.
The Croatian word restoran is sushi outlets), and the number Many Croatian cafés (kafić or
used almost in exactly the same, of stylish contemporary bistros kavana) don’t serve food at all,
broad way as we use restaurant. offering international food is although an increasing number
It is used to refer to any place also on the rise. are beginning to offer quality
where you can eat that offers Most of the gostionica and cakes and sandwiches. Ice-
a perhaps more up market, konoba fall within the mid-price cream and pastry shops, called
more formal dining experience range and some offer very good slastičarnica, are great places to
compared to a straightforward value for money. The average enjoy something sweet.
bar or café. This can range cost of a meal is from around 150
from expensive fine dining at to 220 kuna (between about £16
a hotel restoran to low-key, and £24). This sum would include Pizzerias
family-run establishments a starter, a main course (always Pizzas are always a good choice
offering traditional menus. served with a vegetable) and a for the visitor travelling on a
Equally, prices may range from dessert. Prices vary according to budget. Croatian pizzas are very
the very expensive to more the standard of the place and its good and can compete with
budget-friendly options. location. A gostionica or konoba the best Italian tradition.
Less formal places to try out along the coast will almost
are the numerous gostionica or certainly be more expensive
konoba (both are similar to a than those inland. Sometimes
trattoria or taverna). These are there is an extra charge for
often family-run businesses bread, but the service charge
and they are good places to try is usually included in the price
good, traditional, local food. The of each individual dish.
usual dishes found in a konoba Along the coast, fresh fish is
include risotto (rižoto or rižot, plentiful though not inexpensive.
depending on the region), lignje On menus, the prices of fish and
(squid rings), grah or fažol (bean seafood are generally given by
soup) and basic grills such as the kilo. A useful rule of thumb is
ražnjići (pork kebabs) and čevapi that a good-sized portion of fish
(minced meat rissoles in a bun). or seafood will usually weigh Giaxa, set in a superb Renaissance mansion
There are a growing number of about 300 grams (10 ounces) in Hvar town, Hvar island (see p242)




232-233_EW_Croatia.indd 232 20/10/16 12:33 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.8)
Date 15th May 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  233


or less any time of the day,
especially in tourist resorts.
However, meal times for locals
are broadly as in other
Mediterranean countries. Lunch
is generally served from about
noon to 2pm and dinner from
around 8pm to 10pm.

Recommended
Restaurants
The restaurants listed in this
guidebook have been chosen
based on a wide range of
criteria. All are representative of
The clue is in the name at 360° in Dubrovnik, with its wraparound views (see p241) their setting, be that city streets,
the Dalmatian islands or the
Pizzerias usually have a range of However, restaurants, pizzerias inland plains of eastern Croatia.
pasta dishes and salads too. The and cafés serving Italian­style Each stands out and has earned
prices are always reasonable and food will provide options such a noteworthy reputation.
are on average 30–40 per cent as pizzas with vegetable Listings cover a vast variety of
lower than similar meals in toppings and pasta dishes. eateries, from simple, family­run
many other parts of Europe. Otherwise several side orders of taverns, cafés and pastry shops
vegetables are usually an option to stylish bistros and formal
and omelettes (omlet) may be white­tablecloth restaurants.
Picnics and Self-Catering available in some places. The Particular attention is devoted
Picnic food can easily be bought choice increases in autumn with to regional specialities (see
from food shops, supermarkets the fresh mushroom season, pp234–5), from the fresh fish
or from one of the typical open­ especially in the Istria region. and seafood of the Adriatic to
air markets where you can find a the spicy paprika­flavoured fare
great variety of salami, cheeses, Paying of Slavonia. Also featured is
bread and olives, as well as fresh Bosnian­Herzegovinian cuisine,
fruit and drinks. You will find that most Croatian which is heavily influenced by
Retail food prices are very restaurants now accept credit Turkish and Oriental fare.
reasonable and shopkeepers cards, although it is still possible The DK Choice label means
usually try to be helpful. Ready­ to come across a few where the the restaurant is outstanding
made sandwiches are becoming bill has to be paid in cash. and heartily recommended.
more popular in Croatia, though However, credit cards are often It may serve stand­out dishes
some places still make them to not accepted in cafés or in rural with local specialities, offer
order. You will also find simple establishments, so make sure that excellent value, be located in
ready­made snacks such as you carry enough cash with you. beautiful surrounds or a historic
burek. This is a type of savoury building, or have a particularly
pastry, filled with meat (meso), Opening Hours romantic or charming
cheese (sir), spinach (špinat) or atmosphere. Whatever the
potato (krumpir) and baked in Places serving food and drinks reason, it is an indication that
an oven. Bakeries selling burek have very flexible opening hours, you should have an especially
and other pastries can be found and it is possible to eat at more memorable meal.
on every Croatian high street.
Groups staying in self­catering
apartments should also have no
problem stocking up. Many hotel
complexes with apartments
also have mini­supermarkets.

Vegetarian Food
More and more restaurants
now offer vegetarian dishes and
there are a few that specialize in
vegetarian food. Be aware that
some dishes that appear meat­
free, like manistra (vegetable
soup), may contain meat stock. Deliciously fresh fish and seafood is served at Proto, Dubrovnik




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234  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of Croatia

Croatia can be broadly divided into four main culinary regions: Istrian cuisine
is proud of its Italian heritage and features elegant pasta, gnocchi and truffle
dishes; Dalmatian cuisine is seafood-based and has Venetian echoes;
the fertile farmlands of Slavonia have a more Hungarian influence of
peppers and spice; while central Croatia retains Austrian predilections
– schnitzel, desserts and cakes. However, there are some consistent
characteristics – bread is key and is always freshly made either at
home or in the local bakery (pekara); fish is important all over the
country given the length of the coastline and the many lakes
and rivers; and grilling is the preferred cooking method. Wild aparagus
Dalmatia
and shellfish). Many restaurant
kitchens roast food in a peka – The Adriatic supplies Croatia
a lidded pot buried in hot with much of its fish. Gilthead
ashes – to retain all the flavour bream, red mullet, sole and
and juices. Look out for srnetina, John Dory are common, as
venison stew with gnocchi, or are clams, mussels, oysters,
roasted, meadow-fed lamb. octopus, squid, prawns and
Other delights are the soft even crab and lobster. The
Istrian smoked ham (pršut) channels created by hundreds
and don’t miss the best oysters of islands are perfect for
and mussels in Croatia, farmed cultivating excellent quality
in the clean waters of the shellfish. Produce is prepared
Sardines and other seafood on sale at Limski Channel. with olive oil, garlic and herbs,
Split’s busy fish market
Istria
With a noticeably Italianate
cuisine, food is taken more
seriously in Istria than
anywhere else outside of
Zagreb. Here the truffle, tartufi,
is venerated. Although freshest
in autumn, truffles are used
dried all-year-round in risottos
and pasta dishes such as
mare monti (a “surf and turf”
combination of mushrooms A selection of tasty dishes at a restaurant in Istria


Croatian Dishes and Specialities
Many of Croatia’s religious and folk
holiday festivals are traditionally
associated with a particular dish.
Bakalar (salt cod), for example,
is eaten on Christmas Eve and
Good Friday, kulen (spiced
salami) is a Harvest Thanksgiving
Pršut – smoked ham
dish and guska (goose) served with
chestnuts is a St Martin’s Day treat.The Turkish occupation, over
200 years ago, has left behind a legacy of grilled meats and
kebabs, sarma (cabbage leaf stuffed with rice and mince), burek
(filo pastry tube filled with meat or curd cheese), and baklava
(pastries filled with nuts and drenched in sweet syrup). Coastal Maneštra A filling soup made
specialities include brudet (fish stew with polenta), crni rižot of smoked meat, beans, pasta
(cuttlefish ink risotto) and lignje (squid), served lightly fried in and vegetables – an Istrian
breadcrumbs or na žaru (grilled whole). version of minestrone.






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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  235


Slavonia & Baranja
The Austro-Hungarian Empire
has also affected Slavonian
cooking but with a Hungarian
flavour. Large portions of
warming dishes insulate the
mainly rural population from a
cold, wet and often snowy
climate. Expect meat or fish in
rich sauces, spiced with paprika.
The Drava river provides a good
supply of freshwater fish like
pike and carp. Do try a few
slices of Slavonia’s famous
Fresh-baked bread and pastries for sale at a Croatian bakery (pekara) appetizer, kulen. This smoke-
cured salami, flavoured with
cooked quickly – fried, grilled or and game. As well as being chilli and paprika, is often
boiled – and served simply. Easy grilled, meat is often cooked in served with peppers, tomatoes,
Italian cooking reigns here – a rich stew or spit-roasted turšija (pickled vegetables) and
risottos, pizza and pasta feature (pečenje) – goose, duck, lamb, sometimes curd cheese.
on menus as a result of history, wild boar and venison are
proximity and the sheer favourites. But perhaps the most ON THE MENU
number of Italian visitors. Try obvious Viennese influence is on
Dalmatian pršut, firmer than the the rich desserts – pancakes, Fiš paprikaš: Fiery fish stew
Istrian version, or janjetina – strudels and rib-sticking štrukli. from Slavonia often made with
lamb fed on lush island grass carp and spiced with paprika.
and herbs; it’s great spit-roasted. Zagrebački odrezak: Veal, ham
and cheese fried in breadcrumbs
– a super-schnitzel.
Central & Northern
Croatia Ajvar: A savoury red pepper
sauce/relish – everyone has their
Inland the food is much richer own secret recipe.
– olive oil is replaced by butter, Čevapčići: A Turkish legacy –
lard or dripping. Menus are spicy meat rissoles served with
meat-driven with hearty, filling raw onion, flatbread and ajvar.
side dishes such as dumplings Blitva s krumpirom: Popular
and noodles – legacies from side dish of chard boiled with
Austrian rule. Zagreb has a potatoes, olive oil and garlic.
sophisticated gastronomy but Palačinke: One of Croatia’s top
outside of the capital, rustic desserts: jam-filled pancakes,
flavours and styles abound and Croatian cheese shop, with a variety of hard, with chocolate and walnuts.
A selection of tasty dishes at a restaurant in Istria there is a greater use of veal soft and goat’s cheeses















Škampi na buzaru Scampi is Pašticada A beef joint and Štrukli This northern Croatian
gently simmered in wine, seasonal vegetables are slowly dish of parcels of curd cheese,
tomatoes, garlic and herbs; pot-roasted in wine – prunes boiled and then baked, can be
finished with breadcrumbs. are also sometimes used. either sweet or savoury.






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236  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Croatia

A wide variety of locally made drinks is available throughout
Croatia, from beers and wines to fiery fruit brandies. Croatian
beer is usually of the lager type but dark beers can also be
found. Foreign brands such as Stella Artois, Tuborg, Beck’s and
Carlsberg are brewed in Croatia under licence, and there
are Irish pubs selling Guinness and other Irish beers. Croatia’s
vineyards yield all kinds of red and white wines, most of
which are rarely seen outside the country. Spirits based
on grapes are popular as aperitifs rather than as after-dinner
drinks, as are other fruit brandies made from plums or pears.
Brandies flavoured with herbs, walnuts or even honey are
also popular. Tap water is safe to drink but if the taste does
not appeal there is a wide range of bottled mineral waters,
both sparkling and still. Typical sign for a pub, pivnica in Croatian
Spirits
A wide variety of spirits
is available in Croatia,
demonstrating the
nation’s fondness for
strong alcoholic drinks,
in particular fruit-based
eaux-de-vie. One of the
most popular spirits is a
plum brandy originating
in Slavonia called
Šljivovica. It is found all Pelinkovac Zrinski
over the country. Loza is liqueur brandy
Traditional utensils for the preparation of strong Turkish coffee a grape-based eau-de-
vie with a high alcohol content, and
Coffee and Tea
Travarica is a herb-based spirit. Vinjak
Coffee (kava) is drunk throughout Croatia. All over is a brandy, Pelinkovac is a herb
the country it is served very strong and black, in liqueur, and Maraskino, a liqueur
little cups, like an espresso coffee. If it is too strong from Zadar, is flavoured with
you can add a little milk or order a cappuccino maraschino cherries.
(freshly ground coffee with frothy hot milk). Many spirits are drunk as aperitifs.
Strong Turkish coffee is also available in some A spirit called Bermet is produced in
places. Herbal teas (čaj) are sold everywhere. Samobor, near Zagreb, and is made
Indian teas can also be found, usually served according to an ancient, well-
with lemon, but you can ask for milk. guarded recipe. It is drunk as an
aperitif, served with ice and a Šljivovica
slice of lemon. eau-de-vie
Beer
Another very popular drink sold in cafés and pubs
is beer (pivo), which is always served very cold.
Most bottled beers are of the
lager type, but some darker
beers can be found. The most
well-known brands of lager
beer are Ožujsko, made in
Zagreb, and Karlovačko
(Karlovac). Another
common brand is Pan. Well-
known international beers
such as Stella Artois are also
widely available (some
brewed under licence in
Karlovačko Ožujsko Croatia), but tend to be Some bottles of eau-de-vie with fruit, made at home all over
beer beer more expensive. the country




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  237

Mineral Water, Soft Drinks and Wines
Fruit Juices
Croatia is a land of vineyards, with vines growing
All bars and cafés in Croatia will offer on the slopes of rolling hills inland and in
a wide range of fruit juices, pockets of stony soil on the coast and
as well as the usual islands. Production varies in quantity
internationally known and quality but standards are improving
brands of soft drinks and there are some very decent wines
and fizzy drinks like around. From the Kvarner area come
cola. Tap water the white wine Žlahtina (from Vrbnik
is safe to drink on Krk), red Cabernet (from Poreč)
everywhere in Croatia and Teran (from Buzet), a light red.
and bottled mineral Dalmatia is known for
waters (mineralna Pošip and Grk from
voda) are also widely Orange juice Korčula (both white
available. The most wines), Dingač
common brands of mineral water Zlahtina (one of the best
in Croatia are Studena, Jamnica Croatian reds)
Mineral and Jana, but there are also many and Postup from the
water imported brands available as well. Pelješac peninsula. Plavac
Ask for gazirana (carbonated) voda (red) comes from Brač
for sparkling water, or negazirana for still. and Malmsey from
Dubrovnik. Finally, from
Slavonia come Kutjevačka
Graševina, Kutjevo
Chardonnay and Riesling, Dingač Postup
and Krauthaker Graševina.

Where to Drink
There are various types of establishments which
serve drinks and it is useful to know a few of the
basic categories. A kavana or kafić is equivalent
to a café, and serves both alcoholic and non-
alcoholic drinks, while a pivnica serves mainly
beer. Irish pubs can also be found, selling
Guinness and other Irish beers. Wine is generally
Poolside dining area and bar at the promenade in Hvar drunk in a konoba in coastal towns. In the larger
towns you can have a snack with your drink in one
Drinking Customs in Croatia of the bife, the Croatian equivalent of a snack bar.
However, there are not really rigid distinctions
Pubs, bars and cafés are not only places to
stop at various times of the day for refreshment, between the types of drinks served in one or
but also places to meet friends and socialize. other of these places. Cafés open early and close
For visitors this can also be a good way of meeting late – usually around 11pm or later in the summer.
and getting to know local people. Drinks of various kinds (though rarely alcoholic)
One tradition found in Croatia is that of are also served in pastry shops – slastičarnica. The
mixing wine with other drinks such as mineral close links that Croatia’s gastronomic tradition has
water or even cola. A bevanda is red or white with Austria, and in particular with Vienna, has
wine with plain water, while gemišt is white wine influenced the production of delicious cakes and
mixed with sparkling mineral water. One of the pastries as well as excellent sladoled (ice cream).
most popular summer drinks is red wine and Pastry shops close earlier than cafés in general.
fizzy cola, a drink called bambus.
Croatians like a drink or two, as is demonstrated
by the custom in the Slavonian region of wine
drinking with friends. This traditional ritual
should only be undertaken by people with a
very strong head for alcohol. It begins with the
first phase, which is before any wine is consumed,
known as the Dočekuša. This is then followed
by the Razgovoruša, during which you chat
while sipping at least seven glasses of wine.
The final phase is called the Putnička, reserved
for the leave-taking, when yet more glasses are
emptied before people say their final farewells.
Snack bar with outdoor tables in Fažana, a coastal resort




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238  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

KRK: Konoba Šime  Price Guide
Istria and the Seafood Road Map B3 Prices are based on a three-course
Kvarner Area A. Mahnića 1 meal for one, with a glass of house
Tel (051) 220 042 wine, any taxes and a 10–15% tip.
BUZET: Toklarija  It is quite dark inside this trusty  up to 120 kuna
Fine Dining Road Map B2 harbourside restaurant, but it  120 to 300 kuna
Sovinjsko polje 11 has a bright outdoor seating  over 300 kuna
Tel (091) 926 6769 Closed Tue area, serving fresh local seafood
An acclaimed restaurant in a tiny (breaded squid and black risotto LOVRAN: Draga di Lovrana 
village, the rustic Toklarija takes are among the favourites), as well Mediterranean Road Map B2
the best local ingredients, as Balkan-style grilled meats. Lovranska draga 1
including asparagus, truffles Tel (051) 294 166
and mushrooms in season, and LIMSKI CHANNEL: Viking  On a verdant mountainside
transforms them into haute Regional Road Map A3 overlooking the Kvarner Gulf,
cuisine. Slow cooking, superb Limski kanal 1, Sveti Lovreč Lovran specializes in bringing the
quality, high prices. Tel (052) 448 223 freshest produce – from forest or
Breathtakingly situated on the seaboard – direct to the table.
CRES: Gostionica Belona  shores of the Limski Channel
Seafood Road Map B3 marine reserve, Viking (named MOŠĆENIČKA DRAGA:
Šetalište 23 travnja 24 after a movie that was shot here) Johnson 
Tel (051) 571 203 Closed Dec–Feb serves locally raised mussels, Mediterranean Road Map B2
A rustic place popular with oysters and other shellfish, along- Majčevo 29b, Mošćenička Draga
locals and lively in the evenings, side superb fresh-caught fish. Tel (051) 737 578 Closed Apr–Jun;
Belona serves seafood staples, Sep & Oct: Tue; Nov–Mar: Mon–Wed
usually including excellent squid LOŠINJ: Marina  Family members are in charge of
alongside simple pasta and Seafood Road Map B3 the kitchen, service and daily
grilled-meat dishes. Obala maršala Tita 38, Veli Lošinj supplies of fresh fish which
Tel (051) 236 178 Closed Nov–Mar determine the menu for the day.
CRES: Riva  A superb location on Veli Lošinj’s
Seafood Road Map B3 main harbour and an emphasis MOTOVUN: Mondo 
Riva creskih kapetana 13 on freshly caught fish make this Regional Road Map A2
Tel (051) 571 107 Closed Nov–Mar one of the best places to sample Barbacan 1
Facing the town square on seafood on the island. Tel (052) 681 791
one side and the harbour on The excellent-value Mondo has
the other, Riva offers good, fresh LOŠINJ: Bora Bar  a romantic candlelit interior, an
fish – try sea bass, scampi or Mediterranean Road Map B3 evocative outdoor terrace, and a
seafood risotto. Rovenska 3, Veli Lošinj menu rich in local Istrian truffles.
Tel (051) 867 544 Closed Nov–Mar
HUM: Humska konoba  Run by a long-standing truffle MOTOVUN: Zigante 
Traditional Road Map B2 enthusiast, Bora Bar specializes in Regional Road Map A2
Hum 2, Roč dishes flavoured by the mighty Livade 7
Tel (052) 660 005 Closed weekdays, fungus, although there are plenty Tel (052) 664 302
Nov–Mar of other pasta and seafood dishes. Owned by a local truffle
This tiny village tavern has a Home-made lemon liqueur can harvesting firm, this restaurant
beautiful terrace and tasty be bought as a souvenir. naturally focuses on inland
inland-Istrian cuisine. Try local Istria’s favourite fungus. Truffle
sausages with sauerkraut, or pastas, truffle omelettes and
home-made pasta with truffles. truffle-covered steaks dominate
the menu.
KASTAV: Kukuriku 
Mediterranean Road Map B2 NOVIGRAD:
Trg Lokvina 3 Damir i Ornella 
Tel (051) 691 519 Seafood Road Map A2
Famous for presenting traditional Zidine 5
Croatian and Mediterranean Tel (052) 758 134 Closed Nov–Feb
food in contemporary haute- Something of a pilgrimage place
cuisine style, Kukuriku offers for seafood lovers, this small and
seasonally changing five-course intimate restaurant serves superb
menus, each accompanied by fish, including some sashimi-
appropriate wines. influenced raw fish dishes.
KRK: Konoba Nono  NOVIGRAD: Marina 
Traditional Road Map B3 Seafood Road Map A2
Krčkih iseljenika 8 Sv Antona 38
Tel (051) 222 221 Closed Nov–Mar Tel (052) 726 691
This traditional restaurant Situated beside the yachting
specializes in local seafood and marina, this dedicated seafood
Krk specialities. Try the šurlice, restaurant serves imaginative fish
tubes of pasta basted in goulash Cheerful outdoor terrace and tables at dishes accompanied by excellent
or seafood sauce. Bora Bar, Lošinj local wines.

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  239

NOVIGRAD: Pepenero 
Fine Dining Road Map A2
Porporela bb
Tel (052) 757 706
Adriatic seafood is the main theme
at this top-notch restaurant,
though most dishes are created
by blending varied culinary tradi-
tions; the seven-course tasting
menu puts Pepenero to the test.
OPATIJA: Istranka 
Traditional Road Map B2
Bože Milanovića 2
Tel (051) 271 835
This folksy restaurant with
checked tablecloths is just uphill
from the main street. It serves
filling soups, inexpensive seafood Waterside dining with expansive views, Bevanda restaurant, Opatija
and tasty local sausages.
POREČ: Nono  PULA: Vodnjanka 
OPATIJA: Tramerka  Pizzeria Road Map A2 Traditional Road Map A3
Seafood Road Map B2 Zagrebačka 4 D. Vitezića 4
Dr A. Mohorovičića 15 Tel (052) 453 088 Tel (052) 210 655 Closed Sun
Tel (051) 701 707 Nono serves some of the best A little way outside the centre
Occupying a narrow alley just and certainly the biggest pizzas of town but well worth the trip,
above Volosko harbour, Tramerka in Istria, alongside good steaks, the homely Vodnjanka serves
combines the cosy virtues of a grilled squid and other Adriatic home-made pasta, marinated
traditional tavern with the finest staples. It’s small and often full, fish dishes and roast meats, all
seafood, with the accent on but worth the wait. at very reasonable prices.
what’s in season and fresh.
POREČ: Konoba Ulixes  PULA: Batelina 
OPATIJA: Bevanda  Traditional Road Map A2 Seafood Road Map A3
Seafood Road Map B2 Decumanus 2 Čimulje 25
Zert 8 Tel (052) 451 132 Closed Nov–Apr Tel (052) 573 767
Tel (051) 493 888 Rustic and maritime objects Three kilometres (2 miles) south
A seafood restaurant offering high- decorate the interior of this of Pula, this family-run restaurant
quality cuisine and impeccable classy little restaurant, with is legendary for its superb,
standards of service, Bevanda reasonably priced seafood, pasta frequently creative cooking,
occupies a chic seafront pavilion and truffle dishes dominating always involving freshly caught
with a glass-enclosed terrace. the menu. fish and shellfish. Reservations
are essential.
OPATIJA: Le Mandrać  POREČ: Sveti Nikola 
Fine Dining Road Map B2 Seafood Road Map A2 PULA: Milan 
Obala Frana Supila 10 Obala maršala Tita 23 Seafood Road Map A3
Tel (051) 701 357 Tel (052) 423 018 Stoja 4
A sleek glass pavilion right on Experience refined dining right Tel (052) 300 200
Volosko harbour, Le Mandrać is on Poreč’s harbour-front, with An elegant location in which to
famous for matching Adriatic delicately prepared fish dishes enjoy the best local seafood,
staples with modern creative and superb risottos backed up Milan offers fresh fish either
kitchencraft. Look out for set by a well-chosen selection of grilled or baked, plus a dessert
lunches and multi-course Croatian wines. trolley brimming with temptation.
tasting menus.
PULA: Amfiteatar  PULA: Velanera 
DK Choice Mediterranean Road Map A3 Mediterranean Road Map A3
Amfiteatarska 6
Franje Mošnja 3b, Šišan
OPATIJA: Plavi podrum  Tel (052) 375 600 Tel (052) 300 621
Seafood Road Map B2 Set in the chic modern interior Located in Šišan, 7 km (4 miles)
Obala Frana Supila 12 of the Amfiteatar hotel, this from central Pula, this chic
Tel (051) 701 223 restaurant takes the best of hotel restaurant serves up
A refined restaurant on Volosko’s Mediterranean cuisine and Mediterranean and international
picturesque fishing harbour, presents it in both a creative cuisine with a splash of local
Plavi podrum has a Croatia- and affordable way. Istrian flavour.
wide reputation for its creative
fish dishes. It’s the perfect place PULA: Jupiter  RAB: Konoba Riva 
to sample Kvarner scampi, Pizzeria Road Map A3 Traditional Road Map B3
prepared here in a variety Castropola 42 Ulica biskupa Draga 3
of ways. The excellent cellar Tel (052) 214 333 Tel (051) 725 887
contains local and inter national A welcoming pizzeria in the Appealingly decked out in fishing
wines by the bottle or the glass; middle of town, with an paraphernalia, wooden beams
the owner is also a highly affordable range of big thin-crust and exposed stone, Riva is a great
regarded sommelier. pies, Jupiter also serves soups, place to enjoy quality Adriatic
salads and grilled-meat snacks. seafood at a reasonable price.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
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240  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

RAB: Astoria 
Seafood Road Map B3
Trg Municipium Arba 7
Tel (051) 774 844 Closed mid-Oct–
Apr
A first-floor restaurant looking
out over the main square, Astoria
serves fresh fish and seafood
with style and panache, followed
by some terrific desserts.
RAB: Marco Polo 
Seafood Road Map B3
Banjol 486
Tel (051) 725 846
Located in the coastal suburb of
Banjol, Marco Polo offers Adriatic
seafood with an imaginative
twist, served in an elegant dining Softly lit interiors of Wine Vault, Rovinj
room or on a garden terrace.
ROVINJ: Giannino  ROVINJ: Monte 
RIJEKA: Bracera  Seafood Road Map A3 Mediterranean Road Map A3
Pizzeria Road Map B2 Augusta Ferrija 38 Montalbano 75
Kružna 12 Tel (052) 813 402 Closed Tue Tel (052) 830 203 Closed mid-Oct–
Tel (051) 213 782 Located in a typically atmospheric mid-Apr
A popular and enjoyable pizzeria alley, Giannino offers superb A high-class dining experience
just off the main Korzo, Bracera pasta and seafood in a dining with friendly, informal service,
features nautical decorations and room full of artworks or on a Monte offers sparkling fish and
a satisfying menu of inexpensive shaded terrace on the street. seafood alongside multi-course
pastas, salads, pizzas and risottos, tasting menus showcasing
and meats grilled over charcoal. ROVINJ: Kantinon  creative Mediterranean cuisine.
Traditional Road Map A3
RIJEKA: Konoba Tarsa  Obala Aldo Rismondo bb ROVINJ: Wine Vault 
Traditional Road Map B2 Tel (052) 816 075 French Road Map A3
Josipa Kulfaneka 10 A high-ceilinged harbourside A. Smareglia 3
Tel (051) 452 089 former wine cellar houses this Tel (052) 636 017
Up the hill from the centre in Istrian speciality tavern, serving Based in the Monte Mulini hotel,
Trsat, Tarsa offers a huge menu the best local meats and fish Wine Vault is renowned for its
of pasta and meat dishes, a wide with recipes taken from old quality, French-influenced cuisine
choice of Croatian wines, and an local cookbooks. and multi-course tasting menus
atmospherically rustic interior. intended to last several hours.
ROVINJ: La Puntulina 
RIJEKA: Kuća istarskog pršuta  Seafood Road Map A3 UMAG: Badi 
Bistro Road Map B2 Svetog Križa 38 Seafood Road Map A2
Riva Boduli 3a Tel (052) 813 186 Lovrečica
Tel (051) 211 129 Set in a cliff-hugging stone house Tel (052) 756 293 Closed Nov–Mar;
Right on the harbour, this decorated with arty objects, La Wed
informal bistro with a handful of Puntulina excels in imaginative This fine restaurant in the village
tables and bar stools offers soups, fish dishes, seafood pastas and of Lovrečica is very close to
cheeses, home-cured pršut (ham) risottos. The adjoining cocktail Umag. Great seafood and sublime
and local wines from the barrel. bar offers seating on the rocks. desserts, in a leafy green setting.
RIJEKA: Bistro La Rose  ROVINJ: Veli Jože 
French Road Map B2 Traditional Road Map A3
Andrije Medulića 8 Svetog Križa 1 Dalmatia
Tel (051) 315 504 Closed Sun Tel (052) 816 337
A welcoming restaurant decked Wooden benches and a jumble BRAČ: Bistro Palute 
out like a 19th-century living of quasi-antiques characterize Traditional Road Map D5
room, La Rose offers French- this enjoyable restaurant offering Porat 4, Supetar
influenced soups, quiches and seafood, pastas and roast meats. Tel (021) 631 730
stews, alongside Adriatic Often crowded, but it’s well Sit right on Supetar’s harbour to
seafood standards. worth the wait. enjoy Palute’s superbly fresh fish
alongside inexpensive dishes
RIJEKA: Kamov  ROVINJ: L  such as pasta and grilled meats.
European Road Map B2 Fine Dining Road Map A3
Dolac 4 Luje Adamovića 31 BRAČ: Taverna Riva 
Tel (051) 357 980 Tel (052) 632 000 Regional Road Map D5
The restaurant of the Bonavia Housed in the futuristic Hotel Frane Radića 5, Bol
hotel provides chic modern Lone, L fuses Adriatic ingredients Tel (021) 635 236
decor, old-school service, and with global herbs and spices to Baked lamb, veal, octopus and
a menu of Croatian meat and create a light, healthy, exotic Brač vitalac (sheep innards) are
seafood classics given a creative, cuisine that looks as well- among the specialities at this
contemporary European twist. designed as the building itself. tavern on the Bol seafront.
Key to Price Guide see p238
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 240 20/10/16 12:29 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  241

BRAČ: Konoba Mlin  DUBROVNIK: Dalmatino  DUBROVNIK: Orhan 
Regional Road Map D5 Seafood Road Map F6 Seafood Road Map F6
Ante Starčevića 11, Bol Miha Pracata 6 Od Tabakarije 1
Tel (021) 635 376 Closed Nov–Mar Tel (020) 323 070 Closed Jan & Feb Tel (020) 411 918
Situated in an old mill in a An evocatively decorated Old On a rocky section of coast
beautiful part of Bol, this Town restaurant, Dalmatino serves beneath Lovrijenac fortress,
restaurant serves traditional exquisite fish and superb desserts, Orhan is a romantic location off
Dalmatian seafood and meat alongside selected regional wines. the beaten tourist track in which
dishes on a terrace with lovely to enjoy grilled fish and steaks
sea views. DUBROVNIK: Glorijet  accompanied by quality
Seafood Road Map F6 Dalmatian wines.
BRAČ: Ribarska kućica  Obala Stjepana Radića 16
Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (020) 419 788 Closed Sun DUBROVNIK: Taj Mahal 
Ante Starčevića bb, Bol This comfortable restaurant next Bosnian-Herzegovinian
Tel (021) 635 033 to the fish market in Gruž is the Road Map F6
The bare stone interior and ideal place to try marinated Nikole Gučetića 2
shore-side terrrace of the anchovies, grilled squid, seafood Tel (020) 323 221
“Fishermen’s Hut” provide an risottos and other Adriatic treats. Don’t be fooled by the name: this
ideal venue to enjoy fish soups, is a place for delicious Bosnian-
shellfish, scampi, lobster and DUBROVNIK: Kopun  style grilled meats, stews and
other Adriatic treats. Regional Road Map F6 freshly baked pastries filled with
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7 minced meats, tender spinach
CAVTAT: Kolona  Tel (020) 323 969 Closed Dec & Jan or salty white cheese.
Seafood Road Map F6 Roast capon and traditional
Put Tihe 2 Dubrovnik dishes are the DUBROVNIK: 360° 
Tel (020) 478 787 Closed Nov–Mar specialities at this restaurant, with European Road Map F6
A cosy and traditional restaurant shaded seating on a lovely piazza Svetog Dominika 1
with a leafy terrace, Kolona offers beside the Jesuit church. Tel (020) 322 222 Closed Jan–Mar
traditional seafood specialities European cuisine, a huge wine
and genuinely friendly service. DUBROVNIK: Lady Pi Pi  list and extravagant cocktails
The owner is a fisherman, so Grill Road Map F6 are on offer at this romantically
freshness is guaranteed. Peline bb situated restaurant, which
Closed Nov–Mar occupies a section of the Old
CAVTAT: Galija  Nestling beneath the town walls, Town fortifications.
Seafood Road Map F6 the Lady serves up delicious cuts
Vulićevićeva 1 of fish and meat, grilled expertly DUBROVNIK: Bota Oyster
Tel (020) 478 566 and served in a walled-garden and Sushi Bar 
Baked fish with potatoes is terrace. No reservations; be Regional/Japanese Road Map F6
just one of the specialities prepared to wait. Od Pustijerne bb
at Cavtat’s leading seafood Tel (020) 324 034
restaurant, with outdoor seating DUBROVNIK: Fresh on-the-shells from the
overlooking the seafront. Lokanda Peskarija  nearby oyster beds at Ston
Seafood Road Map F6 and imaginative sushi fashioned
DUBROVNIK: Gradska kavana  Na ponti bb from local ingredients are
Café Road Map F6 Tel (020) 324 750 served here in evocative Old
Pred dvorom 1 With outdoor seating spread Town surroundings.
Tel (020) 321 202 along the Old Port quayside, this
The principal meeting point for is a reliable choice for grilled
coffee-sipping locals, the “town squid, seafood risotto and other
café” offers an appetizing selection Adriatic staples.
of traditional desserts, including
torta od makarule, a famously rich DK Choice
pasta-and-walnut cake.
DUBROVNIK: Nishta 
DUBROVNIK: Komarda  Vegetarian Road Map F6
Grill Road Map F6 Prijeko bb
Frana Supila bb Tel (020) 322 088 Closed Sun
Tel (020) 311 393 Nishta kicked off something of
Hidden down steps just outside a gastro-revolution in fish- and
the eastern entrance to the meat-obsessed Dalmatia by
Old Town, Komarda cooks meat opening this strictly vegetarian
and fish on an open grill, with restaurant right in the heart of
tables set out on a shore terrace. Dubrovnik’s Old Town. The menu
combines Thai, Indian, Mexican
DUBROVNIK: Tabasco  and Mediterranean influences
Italian Road Map F6 to produce a satisfying and
Hvarska 48a varied cuisine (suitable for vegans
Tel (020) 429 595 and gluten-free diners too) that
Immediately below Dubrovnik’s frequently surprises with its
cable-car station, Tabasco offers creativity and flavour. Only
thin-crust pizzas from a wood- a few tables, so booking ahead
fired oven, served on a shady is advisable. Atmospheric dining on a section of the old
secluded terrace. city walls at 360° on Dubrovnik
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 241 20/10/16 12:29 pm

242  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS



DK Choice HVAR: Pizzeria Kogo Road Map D5 under-floor aquarium, family-run
Gariful serves local seafood with
Pizzeria
DUBROVNIK: Trg svetog Stjepana 34, Hvar town real finesse – although prices are
Fish Restaurant Proto  Tel (021) 742 136 on the special-treat side.
Seafood Road Map F6 Kogo is a main-square pizzeria
Široka 1 that serves up reliable and HVAR: Giaxa 
Tel (020) 323 234 Closed Nov– well-priced thin-crust pies Mediterranean Road Map D5
Mar throughout the year, alongside Petra Hektorovića 11, Hvar town
Traditional Dalmatian fish and inexpensive Dalmatian snacks Tel (021) 741 073 Closed Nov–
seafood dishes are served with and daily specials. mid-Apr
care and imagination at this Although the ingredients are
elegant restaurant just off HVAR: Turan  sourced locally, the accent at
the Old Town’s main street. Regional Road Map D5 Giaxa is on inventive European
Affordable daily specials are Jelsa cuisine. The restaurant’s setting,
offered at lunchtime, and there Tel (021) 761 441 in a restored Renaissance
is an excellent list of fine regional Sample a handsome choice of mansion, is outstanding.
wines. Outdoor seating on the perfectly executed local dishes
first-floor terrace makes Fish including stewed octopus, grilled DK Choice
Restaurant Proto one of the most fish and succulent fresh squid,
evocative dining spots in town. fuelled by first-rate house wine. HVAR: Macondo 
Seafood Road Map D5
HVAR: Eremitaž  Groda bb, Hvar town
DUBROVNIK: Levanat  Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (021) 742 850
Seafood Road Map F6 Obala hrvastskih branitelja 2, Stari This fine restaurant just uphill
Nika i Meda Pucića 15 Grad from the main square has long
Tel (020) 435 352 Tel (091) 542 83 95 been regarded as one of the
Fresh fish is either grilled, baked Located in what was once a best places on the island for
or served with imaginative convent, this family-run restaurant excellent seafood served in an
sauces at this beautifully situated serves up a wide range of informal and friendly ambience.
restaurant on the coastal path excellent fish specialities. The spaghetti with lobster or
between Lapad and Babin kuk. the scampi in buzara sauce are
HVAR: Antika  well worth trying; and the list
DUBROVNIK: Nautika  Seafood Road Map D5 of local wines provides a good
Seafood Road Map F6 Donja kola 24, Stari Grad introduction to the island’s
Brsalje 3 Tel (021) 765 479 developing viniculture. Outdoor
Tel (020) 442 526 Closed Nov–Mar In the pretty cobblestoned seating is in an atmospheric
Offering fine dining in elegant centre of old Stari Grad is this narrow alley.
surroundings, Nautika blends characterful café-restaurant,
local seafood with the finesse of serving everything from tuna
modern European cuisine, steaks and seafod risottos to KORČULA: Adio Mare 
backed up by impeccable cakes and cocktails. Regional Road Map E6
standards of service. Marka Pola 2
HVAR: Gariful  Tel (020) 711 253 Closed Nov–Mar
DUGI OTOK: Spageritimo  Seafood Road Map D5 Sit on the terrace at this restaurant
Traditional Road Map C4 Riva, Hvar town and savour fresh fish and shellfish
Harbour, Sali Tel (021) 742 999 Closed out dishes, along with a choice of
Tel (023) 377 227 of season local wines. The risotto and
In a little port out on the seafront, With fabulous views of the Dalmatian pašticada (marinated
this restaurant offers fresh fish Pakleni islands and a stunning meat stew) are not to be missed.
and seafood, such as squid and
octopus, as well as meat dishes. KORČULA: Konoba Mate 
Mediterranean Road Map E6
HVAR: Jurin podrum  Pupnat 28, Pupnat
Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (020) 717 109 Closed Sun
Donja kola 11, Stari Grad This family-run establishment
Tel (021) 765 448 Closed Nov–Apr makes use of produce from its
Occupying a stone building in own garden to prepare the tasty
the centre of Stari Grad’s Old dishes. Try the Labourer's Plate –
Town, “Jura’s Cellar” mixes local smoked ham with goat's cheese,
favourites such as octopus stew olives, marinated aubergines
or shellfish in wine sauce with a and capers.
more international selection of
grills, pastas and salads. KORČULA: LD 
Regional Road Map E6
HVAR: Kod Kapetana  Don Pavla Poše 1–6
Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (020) 715 560
Fabrika 30, Hvar town Local meat and fish dishes
Tel (021) 742 230 are given an inventive twist
Occupying a pleasant spot on at this classy restaurant, with
Hvar’s harbour-front, “At The seating on Korčula’s waterfront
Captain’s” is popular among the promenade. It’s the ideal place
locals for its fresh fish and squid, Fish Restaurant Proto, Dubrovnik, with to sample the best of local wines
expertly grilled. outdoor seating on two levels and olive oils.
Key to Price Guide see p238
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 242 20/10/16 12:29 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  243

MAKARSKA: Jež 
Mediterranean Road Map E5
Petra Krešimira IV 90
Tel (021) 611 741
Traditional Dalmatian cuisine is
served in a modern, light and airy
environment. The fish dishes are
excellent; the desserts divine.
METKOVIĆ: Villa Neretva 
Regional Road Map E6
Splitska 14, Krvavac II
Tel 020 672 200
This family-run hotel restaurant
is famed for its Neretva Delta
specialities: frogs legs prepared in
a variety of ways, or mixed with
chopped eel to make a delicious
brodet, a spicy red soup. Restaurant Nautika in Dubrovnik, on the western entrance to the Old Town
OREBIĆ: Saints Hills Vinaria  ŠIBENIK: Tinel  and remains totally unspoiled
Regional Road Map E6 Traditional Road Map D5 by its growing popularity with
Zagruda Trg pučkih kapetana 1 in-the-know tourists.
Tel (020) 742 113 Tel (098) 870 080
Set amidst vineyards in an old Situated in a small square in the SPLIT: Galija 
stone house, this winery offers Old Town, this restaurant covers Pizzeria Road Map D5
innovative variants of traditional two floors and serves a range of Kamila Tončića 12
Dalmatian fare. The vegetables Dalmatian classics – seafood, Tel (021) 347 932
and spices used come from the grilled meats and stews. For years Galija has been a
garden outside. Book in advance. favourite among locals, offering
ŠIBENIK: Uzorita  inexpensive thin-crust pizzas in
PAG: Konoba Bodulo  Regional Road Map D5 a cosy street-corner location a
Traditional Road Map C4 Bana Josipa Jelačića 58 short walk from Diocletian’s Palace.
Vangrada 19 Tel (022) 213 660
Tel (091) 564 8212 Closed Oct–Mar A sleek interior and modern patio SPLIT: Kod Joze 
Fresh and simple food is served give a contemporary feel to this Traditional Road Map D5
in the welcome shade of a grape- traditional restaurant, specializing Sredmanuška 4
vine. The menu offers all kinds of in locally farmed mussels, fresh Tel (021) 347 397
seafood, pasta and meat dishes, seafood and roast meats. The traditional decor featuring
as well as desserts; the soupy fish bare stone walls and fishing
stew (brodet) is delicious. ŠIBENIK: Pelegrini  nets provides the ideal
Mediterranean Road Map D5 background for a reliable menu
PAG: Boškinac  Jurja Dalmatinca 1 of good, inexpensive seafood.
Traditonal Road Map C4 Tel (022) 213 701 Closed Mon;
Škopaljska ulica 220 Jan & Feb SPLIT: Marjan 
Tel (053) 663 500 Closed mid-Nov– In a 700-year-old villa alongside Seafood Road Map D5
mid-Mar the cathedral, Pelegrini gives Senjska 1
Local island produce, including a modern twist and exquisite, Tel (098) 934 68 48
Pag’s excellent lamb, fresh fish contemporary presentation to A tiny, family-run tavern serving
and famous cheese, are served local produce and specialities, fresh fish and traditional stews,
with style at this boutique hotel’s including an extensive list Marjan is popular with locals and
restaurant in its pretty setting. of the best Croatian wines. tourists – be prepared to wait for
Attentive staff serve unmissable a table in summer.
fare in a gorgeous setting.
SPLIT: UpCafé 
SPLIT: Bobis  Vegetarian Road Map D5
Café Road Map D5 Domovinskog rata 29a
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog A short walk away from the
preporoda 20 Old Town, this two-storey café
Bobis is something of a Split is well worth seeking out for its
institution, serving coffee, cakes wide range of vegan dishes and
and pastries to generations of tasty desserts.
locals. It’s a good place to try local
specialities like krostata (fruit pie). SPLIT: Varoš 
Traditional Road Map D5
SPLIT: Bufet Fife  Ban Mladenova 7
Traditional Road Map D5 Tel (021) 396 138
Trumbićeva obala 11 A traditional restaurant popular
Tel (021) 345 223 with lunching locals, Varoš has an
Very much a legend of the local extensive menu of traditional
culinary scene, Fife offers large, Dalmatian seafood and grilled
Tables under the ancient stone arcades at inexpensive portions of meat dishes, washed down with
Giaxa, old Hvar town Dalmatian seafood and stews, robust house wine.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 243 20/10/16 12:29 pm

244  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

SPLIT: Bajamonti 
Mediterranean Road Map D5
Trg republike 1
Tel (021) 341 033
In this elegant eatery, you can
get coffee and cakes, as well as
a juicy steak or a lobster straight
from their tank. There is outdoor
seating on the Venetian-style
Prokurative square.
SPLIT: Noštromo 
Seafood Road Map D5
Kraj sv. Marije 10
Tel (091) 405 6666
Right next to the fish market,
Nostromo is a reliable place to
find fresh seafood, cooked with
flair and imagination. Formal Dining area on a canopied stone jetty at Foša in Zadar
restaurant upstairs; casual bar
on the ground floor. Dalmatian ingredients, backed VIS: Jastožera 
up with an impresssive wine Regional Road Map D6
SPLIT: Stellon  list – and a chance to sample Gundulićeva 6, Komiža
Regional Road Map D5 boutique Dalmatian olive oils. Tel (099) 670 77 55
Uvala Bačvice bb Local lobster is the focus at
Tel (021) 489 200 STON: Konoba Bakus  this atmospheric restaurant,
Stellon is a modern-looking bar- Regional Road Map E6 situated in a wooden pavilion
restaurant above Bačvice beach, Angeli Radovani 5 mounted above the shoreline
serving pastas and European Tel (020) 754 270 lobster pens. A variety of fresh
classics to a young and The local seafood menu at this fish is also available.
fashionable clientele. family-run eatery is impeccably
cooked and presented – oysters
SPLIT: Boban  from Mali Ston and traditional DK Choice
European Road Map D5 Dubrovnik-region desserts are VIS: Pojoda 
Hektorovićeva 49 among the specialities. Regional Road Map D6
Tel (021) 543 300 Don Cvjetka Marasovića 8, Vis
Tucked into a residential street, STON: Kapetanova kuća  Tel (021) 711 575
Boban has a long-standing Regional Road Map E6 Situated in a walled garden
reputation for its high-quality Mali Ston shaded by orange trees in the
menu of Adriatic and European Tel (020) 754 555 enchanting suburb of Kut,
fare; the inexpensive daily specials Mali Ston bay is famous for its Pojoda enjoys a Croatia-wide
are popular with local lunchers. oysters, which are prepared in a reputation for cultivating
variety of ways at this elegant traditional Adriatic island
SPLIT: Kadena  restaurant near the waterfront. recipes. The lobster, squid and
Seafood Road Map D5 shellfish dishes are first-class;
Ivana pl. Zajca 4 TROGIR: Fontana  there are also a lot of home-
Tel (021) 389 400 Seafood Road Map D5 style dishes specific to Vis that
Occupying a terrace overlooking Obrov 1 combine seafood with barley,
the seafront path and yachting Tel (021) 885 744 lentils and chick peas. It’s a
marina, Kadena specializes in With an outdoor terrace right popular place in summer, so
local fish and shellfish, prepared on the harbour, Fontana be sure to reserve.
with haute-cuisine flair. specializes in local seafood,
although you can also enjoy
SPLIT: Oyster & Sushi Bar pizzas and juicy grilled meats. VIS: Villa Kaliopa 
Bota  Seafood Road Map D6
Seafood Road Map D5 TROGIR: Kamerlengo  Vladimira Nazora 32, Vis
Obala Hrvatskog narodnog Seafood Road Map D5 Tel (021) 711 755
preporoda 6 Vukovarska 2 Set in a palm-shaded walled
Tel (021) 488 648 Tel (021) 884 772 garden, Kaliopa is one of the
Located in a striking modern In the heart of the Old Town and most romantic places to eat
pavilion behind Bačvice beach, boasting a lovely walled garden, on the Adriatic coast. The fresh
this is the place to go for expertly Kamerlengo mostly serves seafood is excellent, if a little
grilled fresh fish, sushi Dalmatian- seafood – although the grilled on the expensive side.
style and sparkling-fresh oysters meats are also a speciality.
from Ston just along the coast. ZADAR: Na Po Ure 
VIS: Karijola  Traditional Road Map C4
SPLIT: Uje Oil Bar  Pizzeria Road Map D6 Špire Brusine 8
Bistro Road Map D5 Šetalište viškog boja 4, Vis Tel (023) 312 004
Dominisova 3 Tel (021) 711 358 Closed Oct–Apr Dalmatian staples including fish,
Tel (095) 200 8008 A branch of the Karijola pizzeria squid and pašticada (beef stewed
Billed as an olive-oil bar, Uje based in Zagreb, this place, with in prunes) fill the menu of this
serves quality, tapas-style light a sea-facing terrace, serves inexpensive and homely bistro in
bites based on traditional reliable thin-crust pies. the Old Town.
Key to Price Guide see p238
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 244 20/10/16 12:29 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  245

ZADAR: Šime  Karijola  Sofra 
Pizzeria Road Map C4 Pizzeria Road Map D2 Bosnian-Herzegovinian
Matije Gupca 15 Vlaška 63 Road Map D2
Tel (023) 334 848 Tel (01) 553 10 16 Radnička cesta 52
In the seaside suburb of Borik, A long-standing favourite among Tel (01) 411 16 21
the enjoyable Šime offers locals, Karijola serves up thin-crust In the Green Gold shopping
excellent pizzas and pastas on a pizzas with traditional Italian and centre, Sofra is one of the best
large outdoor terrace crammed creative Croatian toppings. places in the city to try traditional
with wooden benches. Balkan grilled-meat dishes and
Lari & Penati  hearty savoury cheese, spinach
ZADAR: Pet bunara  Bistro Road Map D2 or potato pies.
Regional Road Map C4 Petrinjska 42a
Stratico bb Tel (01) 465 57 76 La Štruk 
Tel (023) 224 010 This eatery offers high-quality Traditional Road Map D2
Locally sourced ingredients, a but affordable bistro dishes Skalinska 5
modern-European sense of based on what the chef finds Tel (01) 483 77 01
creativity, and traditional recipes fresh in the market, with This small restaurant serves only
forgotten elsewhere combine to traditional Croatian fare spiced štrukli – a northern Croatian speci-
make this one of the best places up with global combinations. ality made from dough filled with
to enjoy Dalmatian cuisine. cottage cheese. Try the authentic
Millennium  dish or one of the modern
ZADAR: Foša  Café Road Map D2 variations with additions such as
Seafood Road Map C4 Bogovićeva 7 pumpkin seeds, pesto or paprika.
Kralja Dmitra Zvonimira 2 Tel (01) 481 08 50
Tel (023) 314 421 One of the most popular places Torte i to 
Situated in a stone house on on the Bogovićeva café strip, Café Road Map D2
a small harbour, Foša serves Millennium has a wide choice of Centar Kaptol, Nova ves 11
expertly prepared fresh fish, hard-to-resist ice creams, plus Tel (01) 486 06 91
either simply grilled or served tarts, puddings and cakes galore. Situated in a shopping centre 10
with imaginative sauces. minutes’ walk from Zagreb’s main
Nokturno  square, this small place serves
Italian Road Map D2 the most famous cheesecakes in
Skalinska 4 town. Expect flavours both classic
Zagreb Tel (01) 481 33 94 and creative.
With tables set out attractively
Agava  in a sloping alleyway, Nokturno Vallis Aurea 
Mediterranean Road Map D2 is a popular venue for good, Central European Road Map D2
Tkalčićeva 39 inexpensive pizzas and large, Tomićeva 4
Tel (01) 482 98 26 substantial salads. Tel (01) 483 13 05 Closed Sun
A narrow flight of stairs takes Traditional Croatian fare is served
you to this innovative restaurant, Oranž  in a wood-panelled interior at
situated on one of the liveliest Café/Wine Bar Road Map D2 this eatery. Slavonian dishes such
streets in Zagreb. The black Angus Ilica 7 as čobanac (paprika-rich stew)
steak is worth a try. Tel (01) 778 73 00 feature on a meat-heavy menu.
This smart, chic city-centre venue
Chocolat 041  boasts an impressive selection of Vincek 
Café Road Map D2 cakes and some good savoury Café Road Map D2
Masarykova 25 choices too, including quiches, Ilica 18
Tel (01) 485 53 82 sandwiches, burgers, steaks, Tel (01) 483 36 12 Closed Sun
This centrally located café with a tapas and salads. Vincek is justifiably famous for its
1980s New Wave theme is noted home-made ice cream, but this
for its excellent ice creams and a Pauza  popular café also offers an array
seriously dangerous array of Bistro Road Map D2 of delicious cakes and pastries.
chocolate cakes. Preradovićeva 34
Tel (01) 485 45 98 Closed Sun
Ivek i Marek  Adriatic seafood and Asian spices
Café Road Map D2 are the hallmarks of Pauza’s
Tkalčićeva 70 imaginative menu, although
Tel (01) 482 89 99 there’s a lot more besides, with
This bright, folksy café serves soups, pastas and salads serving
beautiful cakes, all made with the lunchtime crowds.
wholemeal flour. Try a slice of
Međimurska gibanica, a rich Ribice i tri točkice 
layered cake. Seafood Road Map D2
Preradovićeva 7/1
Kaptolska klet  Tel (01) 563 54 79
Central European Road Map D2 This enjoyable restaurant
Kaptol 5 decked out in maritime murals
Tel (01) 487 65 02 specializes in Adriatic seafood
In an attractive courtyard right dishes that won’t break the bank,
opposite the cathedral, this with fillets of fish, squid and
restaurant excels in schnitzel-style octopus stews and risottos filling Old and new combined in the decor and on
meat dishes and freshwater fish. an extensive menu. the menu at Pet bunara, Zadar
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 245 20/10/16 12:29 pm

246  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Mali Bar  Baltazar 
Bistro Road Map D2 Grill Road Map D2
Vlaška 63 Nova ves 4
Tel (01) 553 10 14 Tel (01) 466 69 99
Through a courtyard and up Baltazar has long been a firm
some steps, this small, semi- favourite among meat-eaters,
hidden bistro serves quality with traditional cuts of pork and
Croatian-European fare in small veal expertly grilled and served in
but delicious portions. an atmospheric courtyard.
Mostovi 
Bosnian-Herzegovinian DK Choice
Road Map D2 Bistro Apetit 
Radnička cesta 1a International Road Map D2
Tel (01) 619 21 78 Jurjevska 65a
A large, lively, popular restaurant Tel (01) 467 73 35
in Zagreb’s new business district, A short walk north of Zagreb’s
Mostovi serves Balkan-style oven- Upper Town, award-winning
Tables on the covered terrace at Vinodol, roast meats, savoury pastries and Apetit specializes in creative
central Zagreb delicious syrupy desserts. Mediterranean-European
cuisine, with fresh, locally
Apetit City  Nishta  sourced ingredients forming
International Road Map D2 Vegetarian Road Map D2 the backbone of a seasonally
Masarykova 18 Masarykova 11/1 changing menu that includes a
Tel (01) 481 10 77 Tel (01) 889 74 44 Closed Mon good balance of meat and fish.
Specializing in Central European Quality, creative vegetarian There’s a strong list of Croatian
and Mediterranean fare, the menu cuisine, complete with vegan and international wines, and
here features soups, home-made and gluten-free options, is the desserts are sublime. In
pasta, fresh fish and classic meat served here in bright, relaxing summer, tables are set out in
dishes. Pair these with wines surroundings. The drinks menu an attractive garden. Parking is
from the excellent collection. includes home-made lemonades available for guests.
and organic wines.
Boban 
Italian Road Map D2 Pod gričkim topom  Dubravkin put 
Gajeva 9 Central European Road Map D2 Mediterranean Road Map D2
Tel (01) 481 15 49 Zakmardijeve stube 5 Dubravkin put 2
In a brick-lined basement below Tel (01) 483 36 07 Tel (01) 483 49 75 Closed Sun
the café of the same name, Dishes from all over Croatia are A culinary landmark, this eatery
Boban serves some of the best served at this uniquely secluded offers a light lunch menu, a
pasta dishes in the city, backed venue, nestling in a walled fine dining dinner menu and
up by a good list of Italian wines. garden just below the Upper a dégustation menu that changes
Town’s funicular station. daily. The wine collection is
Carpaccio  extensive.
Italian Road Map D2 Vinodol 
Teslina 14 Central European Road Map D2 Mano 
Tel (01) 482 23 31 Teslina 10 International Road Map D2
This is a chic but not too formal Tel (01) 481 14 27 Medvedgradska 2
place to enjoy mainstream Italian Grilled meats and roast lamb Tel (01) 466 94 32 Closed Sun
food, with meat and fish are the specialities at this Exposed brick walls lend post-
carpaccios filling out the list of popular city-centre restaurant, industrial chic to this restaurant
starters, veal cutlet mains, and boasting a large terrace in a set in a former leather factory;
some thrilling desserts. covered courtyard. the building also houses a
sculpture museum. The menu
takes its cue from seasonal
availability at the Dolac market.
Okrugljak 
Traditional Road Map D2
Mlinovi 28
Tel (01) 467 41 12
Traditional Croatian dishes
are cooked with finesse at
this Zagreb institution. Try
the popular štrukli and other
meat dishes from the region.
Takenoko 
Japanese Road Map D2
Nova ves 17
Tel (01) 486 05 30
Much more than just a sushi bar,
Japanese-themed Takenoko
Nishta, a haven for those seeking meat-free and gluten-free choices in Zagreb serves some of the most inventive
Key to Price Guide see p238

238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 246 20/10/16 12:29 pm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  247

fusion cuisine in the country,
including Adriatic seafood spiced
up with oriental ingredients.
Trilogija 
European Road Map D2
Kamenita 5
Tel (01) 485 13 94 Closed Sun
Situated near the Stone Gate,
Trilogija has a changing menu that
incorporates ingredients from the
nearby Dolac market. The wine
list, with over a 100 labels from
around the world, is impressive.
Zinfandel’s 
Fine Dining Road Map D2
Mihanovićeva 1
Tel (01) 456 66 44 Tapas-style Croatian food at Mali Bar, Zagreb
Modern European cuisine is the
name of the game at this elegant SAMOBOR: Samoborska klet  ZVEČAJ: Zeleni kut 
but not over-formal hotel Central European Road Map C2 Regional Road Map C2
restaurant, boasting an Art Deco- Trg kralja Tomislava 7 Zvečaj 109
styled interior and a long list of Tel (01) 332 65 36 Tel (047) 866 100
international wines. This family-run restaurant just Freshwater fish from their own
behind the town square serves pond and local meats dominate
straightforward Croatian fare – the menu in this plainly built
schnitzel-style cuts of meat, tasty but idyllically situated restaurant,
Central Croatia sausages, and the occasional by gently cascading river falls.
Adriatic seafood option. Pizzas and vegetarian dishes
ČIGOĆ: are also available here.
Tradicije Čigoć  SAMOBOR: U prolazu 
Regional Road Map D2 Café Road Map C2
Čigoć 7a Trg kralja Tomislava 5
Tel (044) 715 124 Tel (01) 336 64 20 Slavonia and
This traditional-style wooden One of the specialities of Baranja
house in a riverside Lonjsko Polje Samobor is a cream cake called
stork village provides the perfect kremšnita, and this popular café,
ambience in which to feast on with chairs spread across the BRODSKI STUPNIK:
freshwater fish and local game. town square, is one of the best Stupnički dvori 
places to try it. Traditional Road Map E2
GRABERJE IVANIĆKO: Vinogradska 65
Kezele  SAMOBOR: Pri staroj vuri  Tel (035) 427 775
Traditional Road Map D2 Central European Road Map C2 Dine (almost) among the vines
Vinogradska 6 Giznik 2 at the restaurant of this restful
Tel (01) 282 04 96 Tel (01) 336 05 48 Closed Tue hotel and fine winery, in a
Superb country-cooked classics In a charming cottage above the picturesque vine-growing village.
are served this working farm in a town square, the “Old Clock” The helpful team are ready to
rural setting: mouthwatering spit- bases its reputation on hearty help you match their traditional
roasts and baked meats, delicious country cooking involving plenty dishes – including wine soup –
baked dessert pastries and the of veal, pork and fowl. with their own and other
farm’s own wines and liqueurs. Croatian vintages.
SAMOBOR:
JASTREBARSKO: Samoborski slapovi  ĐAKOVO:
K Lojzeku  Seafood Road Map C2 Croatia Turist 
Central European Road Map C2 Hamor 16 Regional Road Map F2
Strossmayerov trg 12 Tel (01) 338 42 34 Petra Preradovića 25
Tel (01) 628 11 29 Closed Sun Just northwest of Samobor in Tel (031) 813 391
This well-respected restaurant a wooded valley, Samoborski This is a restaurant that serves
provides traditional Croatian slapovi is a fish farm with its own the whole gamut of Slavonian
cooking with a creative twist; excellent restaurant – try the cuisine, from spicy kulen salami
expect plenty of roast poultry pan-fried trout. to freshwater fish and čobanac
and grilled meats. (spicy meat stew).
SISAK: Cocktail 
KARLOVAC: Žganjer  Central European Road Map D2 DARUVAR: Terasa 
Central European Road Map C2 A. Starčevića 27 Central European Road Map E2
Jelaši 41 Tel (044) 549 137 Julijev park 1
Tel (047) 641 333 Located in the centre of Sisak, Tel (043) 331 705
South of Karlovac towards this popular restaurant opts for Located near Daruvar’s main spa
Plitvice, this roadside restaurant a mixture of traditional Croatian buiding, this restaurant serves
prides itself on serving traditional pork and veal dishes and Croatian, Hungarian and Italian
specialities such as spit-roast Mediterranean-influenced cuisine in an ambience of old-
lamb and suckling pig. pastas and salads. fashioned elegance.
For more information on types of restaurants see pp232–3
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 247 20/10/16 12:29 pm

248  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ILOK: Villa Iva 
Regional Road Map G2
Radićeva 23
Tel (032) 591 011
This popular guesthouse with a
well-stocked wine cellar serves
fish fresh from the Danube, pastas,
salads, and some superb desserts.
ILOK: Dunav 
Regional Road Map G2
Julija Benešića 62
Tel (032) 596 500
Set on lawns right beside the
Danube, this hotel restaurant is
renowned for its fresh fish, serving
the spicy stewed fiš paprikaš in
individual metal cauldrons.
Cosy rustic styling at Kod Ruže, Osijek
ILOK:
Stari podrum  NOVA GRADIŠKA: SLAVONSKI BROD: Onyx 
Central European Road Map G2 Slavonski biser  Pizzeria Road Map F3
Šetalište O M Barbarića 4 Central European Road Map E2 Nikole Zrinskog 50
Tel (032) 590 088 Teslina 2–4 Tel (035) 445 555
This award-winning wine Tel (035) 363 259 Bright, welcoming Onyx is
producer has a restaurant in the This simple but welcoming primarily a pizzeria, although it
medieval part of the town over restaurant serves a well-cooked also serves Croatian/European
its cavernous cellars, offering standard range of Central fare ranging from grilled meats to
new wines and venerable European dishes and a few fried squid and Wiener Schnitzel.
vintages to pair with traditional local Slavonian staples.
freshwater fish and meat dishes. VUKOVAR: Vrške 
OSIJEK: Café Waldinger  Regional Road Map G2
DK Choice Café Road Map F2 Parobrodarska 3
Tel (032) 441 788
Županijska 8
KOPAČKI RIT: Tel (031) 250 470 Set right beside the River
Kormoran  Osijek’s most elegant café is a Danube, Vrške is the place for
Traditional Road Map G2 key meeting point for locals freshwater carp, catfish or pike-
Podunavlje bb and a lovely venue for people- perch, pan-fried au naturel or in
Tel (031) 753 099 watching: it serves an irresistible breadcrumbs or batter.
A hearty freshwater fish stew range of cakes, pastries, tarts and
with home-made noodles, ice cream. DK Choice
spit-grilled carp and dishes
made with local game are just OSIJEK: Rustika  ZMAJEVAC: Josić 
some of the rural delights on Pizzeria Road Map F2 Regional Road Map G2
the menu at this rustic complex Pavla Pejačevića 32 Planina 194
set in the Kopački Rit Nature Tel (031) 369 400 Tel (031) 734 410 Closed Mon, Tue
Park. With a relaxed, country- Pizza is the main attraction at this Located in an artfully renovated
tavern vibe inside and large, large, family-oriented restaurant, surduk, or tunnel-like wine cellar
safe play areas outside, it’s ideal although grilled meats, salads burrowed into a hill, Josić is one
for a family pitstop. and pasta dishes ensure that of the trend-setters of Baranja
there is something for everyone. tourism, serving local specialities
such as fiš paprikaš (paprika-
KUTJEVO: OSIJEK: Kod Ruže  stewed fish) and game, all in
Schön Blick  Regional Road Map F2 a modern setting. The owner is
Regional Road Map F2 Kuhačeva 25a a leading winemaker and there
Zagrebačka 18, Vetovo Tel (031) 206 066 is a choice of wines from Josić
Tel (034) 267 108 Appropriately decked out and other Croatian vineyards.
Located in an idyllic rural setting, in agricultural implements,
Schön Blick serves freshwater Kod Ruže serves traditional
fish and grilled meats with country food such as paprika-rich
great finesse. stews featuring plenty of game
and fish. The Northern
NAŠICE: Ribnjak  Counties
Regional Road Map F2 OSIJEK: Slavonska kuća 
Stjepana Radića 1 Regional Road Map F2 ČAKOVEC: Mala hiža 
Tel (031) 607 006 Kamila Firingera 26 Traditional Road Map D1
Located in a charming rustic Tel (031) 369 955 Balogovec 1, Mačkovec
location 10 km (6 miles) outside Decorated to look like a country Tel (040) 341 101
Našice on the Osijek road, the kitchen, the Slavonska kuća or A menu based firmly in the
Ribnjak, or “Fishpond”, is an "Slavonian House" is one of the indigenous, seasonal cuisine is
excellent place in which to best places to sample freshwater complemented by an extensive
enjoy local dishes, including fish, either pan-fried, or stewed as wine list in this lovingly restored
freshwater fish. hot, spicy fiš paprikaš. traditional oak building.
Key to Price Guide see p238
238-249_EW_Croatia.indd 248 20/10/16 12:29 pm