(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Seville & Andalucía

THE HIST OR Y OF SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA  49


Where to See Roman
and Visigothic Andalucía
Roman remains can be seen at the
sights of Itálica (see p136), Carmona
(p136) and Ronda la Vieja (p177); in
Harvesting Olives Málaga there is a partially excavated
Carved on a Roman sarcophagus, Roman amphitheatre, and Roman
this scene shows an olive harvest. columns can be seen at the
Olives were grown extensively in the Alameda de Hércules in Seville
Guadalquivir valley from Córdoba (p92). The Museo Arqueológico
to Seville. Thousands of amphoras in Seville (p101), Córdoba (p147)
of olive oil were shipped to Rome. and Cádiz (p168) all have Roman
artifacts on display. Visigothic
The amphitheatre was a pillars and capitals can be viewed
standard feature of Roman in the Mezquita in Córdoba
towns. The one in Itálica is said (pp148–9). Roman mosaics dating
to have been the third largest from around the 2nd century AD
in the Roman Empire.oman Empire. can be seen at the ruins of Cástulo,
in the R
just outside Linares.

Visigothic Crown
The jewelled pendants
on this crown form
the name, in Latin, of
the Visigothic king,
Recceswinth.
The Roman ruins at Itálica
(see p136) are situated 9 km
(5.5 miles) north of Seville.














San Isidoro and San Leandro
San Isidoro (560–635) of Seville, like his
brother, San Leandro, converted Visigoths
to Christianity; he also wrote a great
scholastic work, Etymologies.

446 Tarraconensis
415 Visigoths arrive in Spain in north still 632 Death of Prophet
from northern Europe Roman; Rome Muhammad
attempts to win
back rest of Spain
300 400 500 600
409 Vandals sack
Tarraconensis 476 Visigoths 589 Third Council of Toledo in
(Tarragona) control whole central Spain. Visigothic King 635 Death of San
of Spain Reccared converted from Isidoro of Seville
Arianism to Catholicism
Theodosius, born in Hispania

50  INTRODUCING SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA

The Moorish Conquest

Called in to resolve a quarrel among the Visigoths, the
Moors first arrived in 710. They returned in 711 to conquer
Spain; within 10 years, the north alone remained under
Christian control. The Moors named their newly conquered
territories Al Andalus and in 929 they established an
independent caliphate. Córdoba, its capital, was the greatest
city in Europe, a centre for art, science and literature. In the Moorish Domain AD 800
11th century the caliphate collapsed into 30 feuding taifas Al Andalus
(party states). Almoravids, tribesmen from North Africa,
invaded the region in 1086, and in the 12th century
Almohads from Morocco ousted the Almoravids and
designated Seville their capital. Abd al Rahman III receives
the Byzantine envoy.












Apocalypse
An 11th-century account of an
8th-century text, Commentaries on the
Apocalypse by Beato de Liébana, this
illustration shows Christians going to war.

Bronze Stag
This 10th-century
caliphal-style bronze is
from Medina Azahara.
The Court of Abd al Rahman III
Abd al Rahman III began his palace of Medina Azahara
(see p142) in 936. This 19th-century painting by Dionisio
Baixeres shows a Byzantine envoy presenting the caliph
with the works of the Greek scientist Dioscorides. The
Moors of Córdoba possessed much knowledge of the
ancient world, which was later transmitted to Europe.
The Medina was sacked by Berber mercenaries in 1010.



936 Construction of Medina
Azahara begins
756 Abd al Rahman I reaches Spain and
asserts himself as ruler, declaring an 929 Abd al Rahman III proclaims
Visigothic king and independent emirate based around Córdoba caliphate in Córdoba
Moorish chief
700 800 900
711 Invasion under 785 Construction 822–52 Rule of 912–61 Rule of Abd
Tariq ben Ziyad of the Mezquita Abd al Rahman II al Rahman III
begins at Córdoba
710 First Moorish 961–76 Al Hakam II builds
intervention in Spain Coin from the reign great library at Medina
of Abd al Rahman III Azahara; expands Mezquita

THE HIST OR Y OF SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA  51

Averroes of Córdoba (1126–88)
A physician and philosopher, Where to See
Averroes reinterpreted the Moorish Andalucía
works of Aristotle for Western
and Islamic scholars. The Mezquita in Córdoba
(see pp148–9) and the ruins of the
palace at Medina Azahara (p142)
are the most complete remnants
of Spain’s Moorish caliphate.
Artifacts found at Medina Azahara
can be seen in the Museo
Arqueológico in Córdoba (see
p147). The Alcazaba at Almería
(see p206) dates from the 10th
century, when this city was still
Horseshoe arches were a major part of the caliphate, while the
feature here, as in the Mezquita Alcazaba at Málaga (see p183)
(see pp148–9) at Córdoba. was built during the ensuing Taifa
period. The Torre del Oro (see p73)
and La Giralda (see p82) in Seville
are both Almohad structures.
Mozarabic Bible
Moorish society
integrated Jews and
Mozarabs (Christians
living an Islamic
lifestyle). Illustrations
like this one, from a
10th-century Bible,
are in a Moorish
decorative style. The Alcazaba in Almería (p206),
dating from the 10th century,
overlooks the old town.
Clerics prepare
the manuscript
to be given to
Abd al Rahman III.





Cufic Script
Islamic artists, forbidden
to use representations of
the human figure, made
ample use of calligraphy
for decoration.
Irrigation in Al Andalus
The water wheel was vital to irrigation,
which the Moors used to grow newly
imported crops such as rice and oranges.
Al Mansur
1086 1120 Almoravid power starts to wane
Almoravids
1012 Taifas emerge as invade 1126 Birth of Averroes, Arab philosopher
splinter Moorish states 1147 Almohads arrive in Seville;
1031 Caliphate ends build Giralda and Torre del Oro
1000 1100 1200
976–1002 Al 1085 Fall of Toledo in north to 1135 Maimónides, 1175–1200 Height
Mansur, military Christians decisively loosens Jewish philosopher, of Almohad power.
dictator, comes Moorish control over central Spain born in Córdoba Previously lost
to power territory won back
1010 Medina Azahara sacked by Berbers Maimónides from Christians

52  INTRODUCING SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA

The Reconquest

The war between Moors and Christians, which started in northern
Spain, arrived in Andalucía with a landmark Christian victory at
Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212; Seville and Córdoba fell soon after­
wards. By the late 13th century only the Nasrid kingdom of Granada
remained under Moorish control. Meanwhile, Christian monarchs
such as Alfonso X and Pedro I employed Mudéjar (see p28) crafts­
men to build churches and palaces in the reconquered territories – Moorish Domain in 1350
Mudéjar literally means “those permitted to stay”. Granada Nasrid kingdom
eventually fell in 1492 to Fernando and Isabel of Aragón and
Castilla, otherwise known as the Catholic Monarchs.

The Catholic Monarchs enter
Granada; Fernando and Isabel
were awarded this title for their
services to Christendom.
Boabdil








Cantigas of Alfonso X
Alfonso X, who won back
much of Andalucía from the
Moors, was an enlightened
Christian monarch. His
illuminated Cantigas are a
vivid account of life in
Reconquest Spain.

The Fall of Granada
This relief by Felipe de Vigarney
Almohad Banner (1480–c.1542), in Granada’s Capilla
This richly woven Real (see p194), shows Boabdil, the
tapestry is widely last Moorish ruler, surrendering the city
believed to be the in 1492. Trying to establish a Christian
banner captured realm, the Catholic Monarchs converted
from the Moors by the Moors by force and expelled the Jews.
the Christians at The same year, Columbus got funds for
the battle of Las his voyage to America (see p131).
Navas de Tolosa.

1226 1236 1252–84 Alfonso X reconquers 1333 Moors add
Fernando Fernando III much of Andalucía. Toledo Pedro I of Castilla tower to the 8th-
III takes conquers Translators’ School in the north century Keep (see
Baeza Córdoba continues to translate important p174) on Gibraltar
works of Moorish literature
1220 1260 1300 1340
1212 Almohad 1248 Fernando III 1350–69 Reign of Pedro I of
(see p50) power takes Seville Castilla, who rebuilds Seville
broken by Christian Alcázar in Mudéjar style. His lack
victory at Las Navas 1238 Nasrid dynasty of Spanish patriotism provokes civil
de Tolosa established in Granada. war against Henry II of Trastámara
Alhambra (see p198) is begun Alfonso X

THE HIST OR Y OF SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA  53


Where to See
Reconquest Andalucía
Many of the Reconquest
buildings in Andalucía are
Mudéjar in style (see p28). The
most notable are the Palacio
Pedro I in the Real Alcázar
(p87) and parts of the Casa de
Pilatos (p81), both in Seville.
Christian churches built in
Fernando and Isabel Andalucía during the 13th, 14th
The unification of Spain can be traced back and 15th centuries are also either
to Isabel of Castilla and Fernando of completely Mudéjar in style or
Aragón, dubbed “The Catholic Monarchs”. have Mudéjar features such as a
minaret-like bell tower or portal;
Nasrid warriors as, for example, the Iglesia de San
Marcos (p94) in Seville. During this
period the Nasrids of Granada
built the most outstanding
example of Moorish architecture
Crown in Spain, the Alhambra and
This Mudéjar-style crown, Generalife (pp198–202). Seville
bearing the coats of arms Cathedral (pp82–3) was const-
of Castilla and León, is made ructed in the 15th century as a
of silver, ivory and coral. high Gothic assertion of the
Catholic faith.










Astrolabe
As this 15th-century
navigation tool shows,
the Moors had great
technical expertise.
The Palacio Pedro I (see p86) in
Seville is considered to be the
Boabdil’s Demise most complete example of
Legend has it that Boabdil Mudéjar architecture in Spain.
wept as he left Granada.
He moved to Laujar de
Andarax until 1493, then
later to Africa.

1369 Henry II of Trastámara La Pinta, one of 1492 Columbus
personally kills Pedro I; lays seeds Columbus’s ships sails to America
of monolithic Castilian regime
1492 Fall of Granada to
the Catholic Monarchs
1380 1420 1460
1469 Marriage of Fernando of
Aragón to Isabel of Castilla
1474 Isabel proclaimed queen in Segovia
Forced baptism
of the Moors 1479 Fernando becomes king of
Aragón; Castilla and Aragón united

54  INTRODUCING SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA

Seville’s Golden Age

The 16th century saw the rise of a monolithic Spanish state,
led by the Catholic Monarchs. Heretics were persecuted and
the remaining Moors treated so unjustly that they often
rebelled. In 1503 Seville was granted a monopoly on trade
with the New World and Spain entrusted with “converting”
the Indians by the pope. In 1516 the Habsburg Carlos I came
to the throne, later to be elected Holy Roman Emperor; Spain Spanish Empire in 1700
became the most powerful nation in Europe. Constant war, Spanish territories
however, consumed the wealth that its main port, Seville,
generated. By the 1680s the Guadalquivir had silted up, La Giralda (see p82), once an
trade had passed to Cádiz and Seville declined. Almohad minaret, is now the
belfry of Seville’s cathedral.

Carlos I (1516–56)
Carlos I of Spain
was made Holy
Roman Emperor
Carlos V in 1521.
His election
enabled the
Holy Roman
Empire to
gain access
to the immense
wealth that Spain,
Seville in particular,
generated at this time.










Seville in the 16th Century
Map of Central America This painting by Francisco Pacheco (1564–1654) shows Seville
Within 30 years of Columbus’s first at its height. With the return of treasure fleets from the New World,
voyage, the distant lands and seas of astonishing wealth poured into the city and it became one of the
Central America had become familiar richest ports in Europe. The population grew, religious buildings
territory to Spanish navigators proliferated and artistic life found new vigour. Despite the
profiting in gold and the slave trade. prosperity of the city, poverty, crime and sickness were endemic.


1502 Moors rebel 1516 Death of Seville 1588 Spanish Armada fails in attack on England
in Las Alpujarras Fernando Inquisition
(see pp204–5); banner 1559 Inquisition 1587 Cádiz raided by Francis Drake
they are baptized persecutes
or expelled by 1519 Hernán Cortés Protestants 1580 Seville becomes
the Inquisition conquers Mexico in Seville largest city in Spain
1500 1525 1550 1575
1516–56 1532 Pizarro 1556–98 Reign of Felipe II
Reign of conquers Peru 1558 Second Moorish
Carlos I, later rebellion in Las Alpujarras
1506 Death Holy Roman 1519 Magellan sails from
of Isabel Emperor Sanlúcar de Barrameda on first
circumnavigation of the world Ferdinand Magellan (1480–1521)

THE HIST OR Y OF SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA  55

Inquisition
Fears of heresy laid the Where to See the
ground for the Spanish Golden Age in
Inquisition to be set up Andalucía
in the 15th century. In
the 16th century autos- The Isabelline style (see p28),
da-fé (trials of faith) were lasting testament to nationalistic
held in Seville in the fervour of the early 16th century,
Plaza de San Francisco can be seen in the Capilla Real
(see p78). (p194) in Granada and the Palacio
de Jabalquinto in Baeza (pp156–7).
Baeza and Úbeda (pp158–9) both
prospered during the Renaissance
Unloading and in Spain and contain some of the
loading took place best architecture of this period in
virtually in the heart Andalucía. The Plateresque (p29)
of the city. façade of the Ayuntamiento
(pp78–9) in Seville is a good
example of the style, while
the Palacio Carlos V (p195) in
Granada is the best example of
Velázquez Classical Renaissance architecture
Born in Seville in in Spain. The Archivo de Indias
1599, Diego (pp84–5) was built according to
Velázquez painted the principles of Herreran style
his earliest works in (p29). The Hospital de la Caridad
the city, but later (p73) is a fine 17th-century
became a court Baroque building.
painter in Madrid.
This crucifix is a
detail of a painting
he made at the
behest of Felipe IV.

Ships from other parts of Europe
brought goods to the city; this
merchandise would be traded
later in the New World.





The Last Moors
The last Moors were
expelled in 1609; this The Capilla Real (see p194) in
destroyed southern Granada was built to house the
Spain’s agriculture, bodies of the Catholic Monarchs,
which had taken over Fernando and Isabel.
700 years to develop.


1608 Cervantes, active in Madrid Original edition
and Seville, publishes Don Quixote of Don Quixote
1598–1621
Reign of 1609 Expulsion of 1649 Plague in Seville kills one in three
Felipe III Moors by Felipe III
1600 1625 1650 1675
1599 Velázquez 1630 Madrid
born in Seville becomes Spain’s 1665–1700 Carlos II, last
1617 Murillo largest city. of the Spanish Habsburgs
1596 Sack of Cádiz by born in Seville Zurbarán moves
the English fleet to Seville
Young beggar by Murillo (1617–82)

56  INTRODUCING SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA

Bourbon Kings

The 13-year War of the Spanish Succession saw Bourbons on
the throne in place of the Habsburgs and, under the Treaty of
Utrecht, the loss of Gibraltar to the British (see p174). Later,
ties with France dragged Spain into the Napoleonic Wars:
following the Battle of Trafalgar, the Spanish king Carlos IV
abdicated and Napoleon Bonaparte placed his brother
Joseph on the Spanish throne. The Peninsular War ensued Spain in Europe (1812)
and, with British help, the French were driven out of Spain. Napoleonic dependencies
After the Bourbon restoration, Spain, weakened by further Napoleonic rule
strife, began to lose her colonies. Andalucía became one of
Spain’s poorest regions.


Romantic Andalucía
Andalucía’s Moorish legacy
helped to establish it as a land
of beauty and myth, making
it popular with travellers of
the Romantic era.

The Constitution is
proclaimed to the
people of Cádiz.






Carlos III
A Bourbon monarch of the
Enlightenment and
an innovator
in matters of
society and
science, Carlos III The 1812 Constitution
tried to establish During the Peninsular War, Spain’s Parliament met
colonies of in Cádiz, and in 1812 produced an advanced liberal
farm workers in constitution. However, after the Bourbon restoration in
the sparsely 1814, Fernando VII banned all liberal activity. Ironically,
populated during the First Carlist War, Fernando’s daughter, Isabel II,
Sierra contesting her right to the throne against her uncle Don
Morena. Carlos, turned to the liberals for support.



1717 American trade 1779–83
1701 Felipe V of moves to Cádiz Great
Bourbon begins Siege of
his reign Gibraltar
1726 Spain tries to retake Gibraltar
1700 1725 1750 1775
1724 Felipe V abdicates 1759–88
1701–13 but is reinstated Carlos III 1788–1808
War of the Reign of
Spanish 1713 Treaty of Utrecht; 1746–59 Reign 1771 Royal Tobacco Factory Carlos IV
Succession Gibraltar ceded to Britain of Fernando VI in Seville is completed

THE HIST OR Y OF SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA  57

Battle of Bailén
In 1808, at Bailén, a Where to See
Spanish army comprising Bourbon Andalucía
local militias beat
Napoleon’s experienced Eighteenth-century Baroque
French army, taking architecture can be seen all over
22,000 prisoners. Andalucía. The prime examples
in Seville are the former Royal
Tobacco Factory, now the city’s
Universidad (see pp100–101),
and the Plaza de Toros de la
Maestranza (p72). Osuna (p137),
Battle of Trafalgar
In 1805, the Spanish, allied at Écija (p137) and Priego de
Córdoba (p154) all have fine
the time to Napoleon, lost examples of the style. The
their fleet to the British lower levels of Cádiz Cathedral
admiral, Nelson.
(p168) are the most complete
example of a Baroque church
found in Spain. The Puente
Isabel II (p107) is a fine showcase
of 19th-century arquitectura de
hierro (iron architecture).
Support
for the
constitution
came from
a wide
section of
society,
including
women.
The Puente Isabel II is an
example of the architecture of
Andalucía’s “industrial” age.


Washington Irving
In Tales of the Alhambra
(1832) the American
diplomat Washington
Irving perpetuated a
highly romanticized
view of Andalucía.
Seville’s Tobacco Factory
Carmen (1845), by Prosper
Mérimée (see p100), was
inspired by the women – more
than 3,000 of them – who
worked in the tobacco factory.

1873–4 First
1808 Joseph 1812 Liberal constitution Isabel II 1870–73 Reign of King Republic,
Bonaparte made drawn up in Cádiz Amadeo of Savoy proclaimed
king of Spain. after Amadeo
Battle of Bailén 1814–33 (Bourbon restoration) 1868 Isabel II loses her abdicates
Reign of Fernando VII throne in “glorious” revolution
1800 1825 1850 1875
1814 South American 1843 1846–9 Second 1872–6 Third
1805 Battle colonies begin struggle Isabel II Carlist War Carlist War
of Trafalgar for independence accedes
to throne 1874 Second Bourbon restoration:
1808–14 Peninsular War; Seville Alfonso XII made king
occupied by the French 1810–12 1833 First Carlist War Alfonso XII

58  INTRODUCING SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA

The Seeds of Civil War

Andalucía continued to decline, remaining so deeply
feudal that by the early 20th century social protest was rife.
The 1920s brought dictator General Primo de Rivera and
relative, but short-lived, social order. In 1931, a Republican
government, initially comprising liberals and moderate
socialists, came to power. A rigid social order made real
reforms slow to arrive, however, and 1931–36 saw growing Andalucía in 1936
conflict between extreme left and right wing (including the Nationalist territory
Falange) elements. Finally, in 1936, the Nationalist General Republican territory
Franco, leading a Moroccan-based garrison, invaded Spain,
declaring war on the Republic.
Women fought along-
side men against the
Nationalist army.my.
Nationalist ar









Moorish Revival
By the late 19th century,
regionalism, andalucismo, led
to a revival of Moorish-style
architecture. An example is
Seville’s Estación de Córdoba.







Picasso
Pablo Picasso,
was born in The Republican Army
Málaga in 1881.
His most famous In Andalucía, Franco attacked the Republican army
at the very start of the war. Cádiz and Seville fell to
work, Guernica,
depicts the tragic Nationalists, but other Andalucían towns held out
effects of the longer. Franco seized Málaga in 1937, executing
Civil War. thousands of Republicans.
1882–1912 Growing Fighting during
militancy of farm workers Cuban War, 1898
1876 Composer
Manuel de Falla 1885–1902 Regency 1895–8
born in Cádiz of María Cristina Cuban War
1880 1890 1900
1893 Guitarist Andrés 1898 Cuba
Segovia born near Jaén gains indepen- 1902–31
1881 Pablo dence with US Reign of
Picasso born 1885 Anarchist aid; Cádiz and Alfonso XIII
group Mano Negra Málaga begin
active in Andalucía to decline

THE HIST OR Y OF SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA  59


Casas Viejas Where to See
In 1933, peasants were
massacred after an uprising Early 20th-Century
by anarchists at Casas Viejas Architecture in Andalucía
in the province of Cádiz.
The incident further served This period is characterized
to undermine the Republican by architectural revivals. The
government. regionalist style can be seen at
the Plaza de España (see p102), the
Museo Arqueológico (p103), and
the Museo de Artes y Costumbres
Populares (p103), all in the Parque
María Luisa. The Teatro Lope Vega
(p101) is in a Neo-Baroque style.







The Pabellón Real (see p103)
in the Parque María Luisa is a
pastiche of the late Gothic,
Isabelline style (see p28).
1929 Exposition
This trade fair was intended to
boost Andalucía’s economy.
Unfortunately, it coincided
with the Wall Street Crash.

Arms were supplied
to the Republican
army by the then
Soviet Union.








General Queipo de Llano
Federico García Lorca Queipo de Llano broadcast
The outspoken poet and radio propaganda to Seville
playwright was murdered by as part of the Nationalists’
local Falangists in his home strategy to take the city.
town, Granada, in 1936.

1933 Massacre Republican poster
at Casas Viejas
1923–30 Dictatorship of 1936 Civil
General Primo de Rivera 1929 Ibero-American War starts
Exposition, Seville
1910 1920 1930 1940
José Antonio 1931–39 Second 1939 Civil
1917–20 Bolshevik Primo de Republic 1936 Franco War ends;
Triennium; Rivera becomes over 500,000
communists lead 1933 Falange founded by head of state dead
protests in Andalucía José Antonio Primo de
Rivera; later supports Franco

60  INTRODUCING SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA

Modern Andalucía

By 1945 Spain remained the only Nationalist state in Europe.
When Franco died in 1975 and Juan Carlos I came to the
throne, the regions clamoured for devolution from Franco’s
centralized government. In 1982, the Sevillian Felipe González
came to power and, in the same year, Andalucía became an
autonomous region. Spain joined the European Union in 1986
and, benefitting from European investors in agriculture, the Autonomous regions
1990s saw economic growth. Seville evolved into a modern Present-day Andalucía
city, hosting the Expo ‘92 world fair, and its economy
continues to improve steadily.
A public balcony consisting of skywalks
on the top level provides panoramic
views of Seville’s old quarter.









The Hungry Years
After the Civil War, Spain was isolated from Europe
and after World War II, received no aid; amid
widespread poverty and rationing, many
Andalucíans left to work abroad.






Metropol Parasol
Designed by German architect Jürgen Mayer
and completed in 2011, the striking
Feria Metropol Parasol, one of the largest timber
Despite the structures ever built, soars above the Plaza
repressive regime
that Franco Encarnación in Seville. This ultra-modern
established, the construction in the historic centre features
spirit of the wooden mushroom-like canopies with
Andalucían people walkways providing panoramic views.
remained evident The basement houses an archaeological
in events such as museum whose glass floors reveal
the feria in Seville. fascinating ancient Roman ruins below.

1966 Palomares incident: two 1976 Adolfo Suárez
1940 Franco refuses 1953 Spain is US aircraft collide and four nuclear appointed prime
to allow Hitler to granted economic bombs fall to earth, one in the sea, minister and forms
attack Gibraltar from aid in return for but do not explode. The Duchess of centre-right
Spanish territory allowing US bases on Medina Sidonia, “the red duchess”, government
Spanish soil leads protest march on Madrid
1940 1950 1960 1970 1980
1975 Franco
1940–53 The 1962 Development of dies. Third
Hungry Years Costa del Sol begins Bourbon
Franco meets restoration; Juan
American President 1969 Spain closes its Carlos I accedes
Eisenhower (1953) border with Gibraltar to the throne

THE HIST OR Y OF SE VILLE AND AND AL UCÍA  61


PS10 Solar Power Plant Where to See
Opened in 2007 near Seville, this
is Europe’s first commercially Modern Andalucía
operating power station. Some of the most striking
buildings of modern Andalucía
were built in the 1990s. Expo ’92
left Seville with five new bridges
over the Guadalquivir river, while
at Cartuja ‘93 (see p108) Expo’s core
pavilions still stand and now serve
as offices while other buildings are
used for events. The Teatro de la
Torre Sevilla Maestranza (pp72–3), in El Arenal,
Designed by Argentinian architect was also built during this period.
César Pelli, the Torre Sevilla is the
tallest skyscraper in Andalucía. It
houses a luxury hotel on the top
12 floors (see p216) and offices.





Pabellón de Navegación at La
Cartuja has a museum about the
history of maritime navigation
and hosts temporary exhibitions










An elevated plaza
frequently hosts cultural
events under the shade
of the canopy.
Felipe González
In 1982, the year after an
attempted coup by the
Civil Guard colonel Expo ’92
Antonio Tejero, Felipe Hosted by Seville, Expo ’92 placed
González, leader of the Andalucía at the centre of a world
socialist PSOE, claimed stage. Some 41 million people visited
a huge electoral victory. over the 6 months it was open.

2004 Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party wins the general elections 2010 Spain wins the FIFA World Cup
2006 Seville
1982 Andalucía becomes 1996 In the general FC are the
an autonomous region election González UEFA Cup 2013 Spanish unemployment
loses to a coalition champions reaches a record high; youth
1985 Spain-Gibraltar border opens led by Aznar unemployment stands at 50 per cent
1990 2000 2010 2020
1981 Colonel Tejero 2014 King Juan Carlos abdicates
attempts coup and 2006 In March, the Basque the throne to his son, Felipe VI
holds Spanish terrorist organization ETA 2011 Mariano Rajoy is elected
Parliament hostage; announces a permanent ceasefire Prime Minister of Spain
Juan Carlos intervenes 2007 Madrid to Málaga
high-speed AVE train line opens 2009 Andalucía’s first subway system opens in Seville
Colonel Tejero



SEVILLE


AREA BY AREA





Seville at a Glance 64–65

El Arenal 66–73
Santa Cruz 74–87
La Macarena 88–95
Parque María Luisa 96–103

Across The River 104–109
A Guided Walk 110–111
Seville Street Finder 112–121

64  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

Seville at a Glance

The capital of Andalucía is a compact and relaxing city with a rich
cultural heritage. Conveniently, many of its principal sights can be
found within or very near the city centre, which is set on the east bank
of the Río Guadalquivir. Most visitors head straight for the cathedral
and La Giralda, Real Alcázar and Museo de Bellas Artes. Among
other highly popular monuments are the exquisite Renaissance
palace of Casa de Pilatos and Seville’s bullring, the Plaza de
Toros de la Maestranza. There are, however, many other
churches, monuments and neighbourhoods to discover
in the four central areas described in this section, and
more, further afield, across the river.












El Arenal
Pages 66–73
The splendid ceiling of Museo de
Bellas Artes (see pp70–71)


















La Giralda rising above the massive Gothic
cathedral (see pp82–3)











Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza seen The Moorish Torre del Oro, built to
from the river (see p72) defend Seville (see p73)
Aerial view of Santa Cruz area, with La Giralda, Real Alcázar and Archivo de Indias in foreground

SE VILLE A T A GLANCE  65















La Macarena One of many elaborate floats in the Basílica de la Macarena, during
Pages 88–95 Easter Week in Seville (see p93)











Santa Cruz
Pages 74–87 The impressive wooden structure of the Metropol Parasol,
located in Plaza de la Encarnación, acts as a grand gateway
to La Macarena (see p89)








Roman relief of Leda and the Swan,
Casa de Pilatos (see p81)


Sumptuous Mudéjar arches and decor in Salón de
Embajadores, Real Alcázar (see pp86–7)







Parque
María Luisa
Pages 96–103







Plaza de España in the green oasis of Parque Patio of Real Fábrica de Tabacos, today
María Luisa (see pp102–3) the Universidad (see p100)



SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA  67

EL ARENAL

Bounded by the Río Guadalquivir and glory just in time for Expo ’92. The east
guarded by the mighty 13th-century Torre riverfront was transformed into a tree-lined,
del Oro, El Arenal used to be a district of shady promenade with excellent views of
munitions stores and shipyards. Today, this Triana and La Cartuja across the river (see
quarter is dominated by the dazzling white pp106–9). Boat trips and sightseeing tours
bullring, the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, depart from the Torre del Oro. Close by is the
where the Sevillians have been staging corridas smart Teatro de la Maestranza, where opera,
for more than two centuries. The many classic classical music and dance take place before
bars and wine cellars in the neighbouring discerning audiences.
streets are especially busy during the summer The Hospital de la Caridad testifies to the
bullfighting season. city’s continuing love affair with the Baroque.
Once central to the city’s life, the influence Its church is filled with famous paintings by
of the Guadalquivir declined as it silted up Murillo, and the story of the Seville School is
during the 17th century. By then, El Arenal told with pride in the immaculately restored
had become a notorious underworld haunt Museo de Bellas Artes further north. The
clinging to the city walls. After being con- city’s stunning collection of great works by
verted into a canal in the early 20th century, Zurbarán, Murillo and Valdés Leal is reason
the river was restored to its former navigable enough to visit Seville.


Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings
3 Plaza de Toros
de la Maestranza A L F O N S O
5 Hospital de la AV X I I
Caridad LO L CALLE DE GRAVINA
6 Torre del Oro PASEO REY JUAN CARLOS I MARQUES DE PARADAS A C A L LE DE BAILEN CALLE MONSALV LV L ES LO L
CALLE SAN ELOY
Museums Estacion CALLE O’DONNELL
Plaza de
1 Museo de Bellas Artes Armas PLAZA DE LO L RIOJA
LA LEGION
PA
pp70–71 AVDA CRISTO DE LA EXPIRACION CALLE CANALEJAS BAILEN MURILLO CALLE
P
Churches Puente del P PA CALLE PA LO L CALLE CALLE VELAZQUEZ TETUAN
Cachorro CALLE SAN PABLO
P
A
AT
2 Iglesia de la Magdalena PASEO REY JUA N CARLO LO L S I CALLE CALLE DE TRASTAMARA JULIO CESAR CALLE DE MORATIN MÉNDEZ
Theatres DE C CARLO LO L S CAÑAL
4 Teatro de la Maestranza RADIO SEVILLA ARJONA CALLE ZARAGOZA PARIAS PEDRO NUÑEZ PLAZA
MARQUES DE PARADAS
NUEVA
CALLE ALMANSA
Plaza
SEGURA REYES CATOLICOS P PA SANTAS Nueva A AV
T
TA
Restaurants p228 GENIL PASTOR Y LANDERO PATRONAS CALLE CASTELAR GAMAZO J IMIOS
CALLE
CALLE GALERA
1 El Aguador de Velazquez Puente de Isabel II P A S E O HARINAS AVDA DE LA CONSTITUCION
CALLE DE ADRIANO
2 Bodeguita Casablanca (Puente de Triana) PA SEO GARCIA DE VINUESA
3 La Brunilda Tapas D E C A L L E C I R C O DIAZ CALLE ARFE PLAZA DEL
CABILDO
4 El Burladero A LCA L DE ANTONIA T
TA
5 Enrique Becerra CASTAÑOS de Indias
Archivo
AY
A
6 Petit Comité G C R I S T O B A L GENERAL DE MAYO
CALLE VARFLORA CALLE PAVIA
7 Taberna del Alabardero u a M A RQUES IBARRA TOMAS DE
d DOS
a TEMPRADO
l D E
q
u C O L O N SANTANDER
i
v CON TA D ERO
i HABANA CALLE
r Puerta
de Jerez
ALMTE LOBO
Puerta de
Jerez
Puente de
San Telmo
0 metres 400
See also Street Finder
0 yards 400 maps 1, 3, 5
The striking Baroque domed ceiling of the Museo de Bellas Artes For keys to symbols see back flap

68  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: El Arenal

Once home to the port of Seville from where ships sailed
to the New World in the 16th century, El Arenal also
housed the artillery headquarters and ammunition
works. These days it is a well-heeled area and a popular
desination for bars and restaurants. It is home to Seville’s
bullring, the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza and the
modern Maestranza theatre. The riverfront is dominated
by one of Seville’s best-known monuments, the Moorish 3 . Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza
Torre del Oro, while the long, tree-lined promenade Seville’s 18th-century bullring, one of
beside Paseo de Cristóbal Colón is the perfect setting for Spain’s oldest, has a Baroque façade in
white and ochre.
a romantic walk along the Guadalquivir.

CALLE DE ADRIANO
Carmen (see p100),
sculpted in bronze,
stands opposite
the bullring.


CALLE ANTONIA DIAZ
















PASEO DE CRISTOBAL COLON


Paseo Alcalde
Marqués de Contadero
4 Teatro de la Maestranza
This showpiece theatre and opera house
opened in 1991. Home of the Orquesta
Sinfónica de Sevilla, it also hosts international
opera and dance companies.





0 metres 75
0 yards 75
The Guadalquivir
The river used to cause catastrophic inundations.
After floods in 1947, a barrage was constructed.
Today, peaceful boat trips start from the Torre del Oro.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p228

EL ARENAL  69

El Buzo
This is one of many LA MACARENA
traditional restaurants EL ARENAL
situated on or just off SANTA CRUZ
Calle Arfe. Nearby lies
Mesón Sevilla Jabugo I, Guadalquivir
where jamón ibérico
(see p222) is served.
PARQUE
MARIA LUISA
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 3, 5
El Postigo is an arts
and crafts market. GARCIA VINUESA
To Seville Cathedral
On Plaza del Cabildo, a well-
hidden square, convent-made
sweets are sold in El Torno.





AVENIDA
DE
LA






DOS DE MAYO TOMAS DE IBARRA CONSTITUCION 5 . Hospital de la Caridad

The Baroque church of this
hospice for the elderly is
lined with paintings by
Bartolomé Esteban Murillo
and Juan de Valdés Leal.

To Real Alcázar
TEMPRADO


Key
Suggested route
CALLE SANTANDER


Maestranza
de Artillería



6 . Torre del Oro
Built in the 13th century in
order to protect the port,
this crenellated Moorish
tower now houses a small
maritime museum.

70  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

1 Museo de Bellas Artes

The former Convento de la Merced Calzada has been restored e m for
to create one of the finest art museums in Spain. The convent, disabled
which was completed in 1612 by Juan de Oviedo, is built
around three patios, which today are adorned with flowers,
trees and azulejos (see p80). The museum’s impressive
collection of Spanish art and sculpture extends from the
medieval to the modern, focusing on the work of Seville
School artists such as Bartolomé Esteban Murillo, Juan
de Valdés Leal and Francisco de Zurbarán.




11
10

9




. San Hugo en el Refectorio (1655)
One of several works by Zurbarán for the 6
monastery at La Cartuja (see p109), this
scene depicts the Carthusian Order of 8 7
monks first renouncing the eating of meat.



Gallery Guide
Signs provide a self-guided
chronological tour through
the museum’s 14 galleries, First floor
starting by the Claustro del
Aljibe. Works downstairs
progress from the 14th century The Claustro de los
Bojes is enclosed by
through to Baroque; those Tuscan-style arches.
upstairs from the Baroque
to the early 20th century. 4

3
La Inmaculada
This stirring Inmaculada
(1672), by Valdés Leal
(1622–90) is in Sala 8, a
gallery devoted to the artist’s 2
forceful religious paintings.


. San Jerónimo (1528)
Sculpted by the Florentine
Torrigiano, this masterpiece in
terracotta brought the vitality of
the Italian Renaissance to Seville.

EL ARENAL  71


. La Virgen VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
de la Servilleta
This Virgin and Child Practical Information
(1665–8), painted on a Pl del Museo 9. Map 5 B2. Tel 955
napkin (servilleta), is 54 29 42. Open mid-Sep–mid-Jun:
one of Murillo’s most 9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm
popular works. Sun; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am– 3pm
Tue–Sun.. 7 & free with EU
ID card & 11:30am third Wed of
month. ∑ juntadeandalucia.es
Transport
@ 3, 6, 40, 41, 43, C3, C4, C5.

14
. Domed Ceiling
The magnificent ceiling of
the convent church, now
12 restored to its Baroque glory,
was painted by Domingo
13
Martínez in the 18th century.




e m for
disabled



5





Apoteosis de Santo
Tomás de Aquino
Zurbarán accomplished this
work in 1631, at the age of 33.
His sharp characterization of
the figures and vivid use of
colour bring it to life, as can
be seen on this detail.







Entrance
m d =
1
Key to Floorplan
Medieval art
Renaissance art
Patio del Aljibe Baroque art . Claustro Mayor
The main cloister of the monastery
19th- and 20th-century art was remodelled by architect
Ground floor Non-exhibition space Leonardo de Figueroa in 1724.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p228

72  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


front is surmounted by a belfry triumphant on the shoulders
painted in vivid colours. of admirers from the crowd.
Among the religious works Passing the enfermería (emer-
in the church are a painting by gency hospital), visitors reach
Francisco de Zurbarán, a museum which details the
St Dominic in Soria, in the Capilla history of the bullfight in Seville.
Sacramental (to the right of the Among its large collection of
south door), and frescoes by costumes, portraits and posters
Lucas Valdés above the sanctuary are scenes showing early
depicting The Allegory of the contests held in the Plaza de San
Triumph of Faith. On the wall of Francisco. The tour continues to
the north transept is a cautionary the chapel where matadors pray
fresco, which depicts a medieval for success, and then on to the
auto-da-fé (trial of faith). stables where the horses of the
picadores (lance-carrying
horsemen) are kept.
3Plaza de Toros Bullfighting season starts on
de la Maestranza Easter Sunday and continues
Madonna and Child in the Baroque intermittently until October.
Iglesia de la Magdalena Paseo de Colón 12. Map 3 B2 (5 B4). Most corridas are held on
 Puerta de Jerez. v Archivo de Sunday evenings. The bullring
2Iglesia de la Indias. @ 3, 21, 40, 41, C3, C4, C5. accommodates as many as
Magdalena Tel 954 21 03 15. Open 9:30am–7pm 12,500 spectators.
daily (to 9pm Apr–Oct); 9:30am–3pm
Calle San Pablo 10. Map 3 B1 (5 B3). v on bullfight days. & 8
Plaza Nueva. @ 40, 41, 43, C5. Tel 954 ∑ realmaestranza.com
22 96 03. Open 7:45am–11am Mon & Seville’s famous bullring is
Fri, 7:45am–1:30pm Tue–Thu & Sat, arguably the finest in the whole
8:45am–2pm Sun; winter: 6:30pm– of Spain and hosts corridas,
9pm Mon–Fri; summer: 7:30pm–
9:45pm Sun. 5 8am, 9am, 10am, or bullfights (see pp30–31).
10:30am, 8:15pm Mon–Sat; 9am, Although the art of the matador
10:30am, noon, 8:15pm Sun. (bullfighter) is a controversial
∑ rpmagdalena.org subject for many, the sunlit
stage, with its whitewashed
This immense Baroque church walls, red fences and merciless
by Leonardo de Figueroa, circle of sand, remains important
completed in 1709, has been to the city’s psyche. Even if you
restored to its former glory. In its dislike the idea of bullfighting,
southwest corner is the Capilla this arcaded arena, dating from
de la Quinta Angustia, a Mudéjar 1761 to 1881, is an aesthetic
chapel with three cupolas, marvel and worth a visit.
which survived from an earlier Guided tours start from the
church where the great Spanish main entrance on Paseo de Entrance with 19th-century ironwork,
painter Bartolomé Murillo (see Colón. On the west side is the Teatro de la Maestranza
pp70–71) was baptized in 1618. Puerta del Príncipe (Prince’s
The font used for his baptism Gate), through which the very 4Teatro de la
stands in the baptistry. The west best of the matadors are carried Maestranza
Paseo de Colón 22. Map 3 B2 (5 C5).
 Puerta de Jerez. v Puerta de
Jerez. @ 3, 21, 40, 41, C4, C5.
Tel 954 22 33 44 (information).
Open for performances. ^ 7
∑ teatrodelamaestranza.es
Close to the Plaza de Toros, and
with echoes of its circular bulk,
is Seville’s 1,800-seat opera
house and theatre. It opened
in 1991 and many international
opera companies perform here
(see p245). Like many of the
edifices built in the run-up to
Expo ’92 (see pp60–61), it was
Arcaded arena of the Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza, begun in 1761 designed in a rather austere
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p228

EL ARENAL  73


see the octagonal Torre de Plata
(Tower of Silver) rising above
Calle Santander. Like the Torre
del Oro nearby, it dates from
Moorish times and was built
as part of the city defences.

6Torre del Oro
Paseo de Colón s/n. Map 3 B2 (5 C5).
 Puerta de Jerez. v Puerta de
Jerez. @ 3, 6, 21, 40, 41, C3, C4, C5.
Tel 954 22 24 19. Open 9:30am–
1:30pm Tue–Fri, 10:30am–6:45pm Sat
& Sun. Closed Aug. & (free Tue).
F F
Finis Gloriae Mundi by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de la Caridadinis Gloriae Mundi by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de la Caridadinis Gloriae Mundi In Moorish times the Tower of
Gold formed part of the walled
style by architects Luis Marín the leading artists of the 17th defences, linking up with the
de Terán and Aurelio del Pozo. century, despite the fact that Real Alcázar (see pp86–7) and
Ironwork remnants of the some of its greatest artworks the rest of the city walls. It was
19th-century ammunition were looted by Marshal Soult built as a defensive lookout in
works that first occupied the at the time of the Napoleonic 1220, when Seville was under
site decorate the river façade. occupation of 1810 (see p57). the rule of the Almohads
Tickets are sold from the box Immediately above the (see pp50–51), and had a
office in the adjacent Jardín entrance is the ghoulish companion tower on
de la Caridad. F F Finis Gloriae Mundi (The inis Gloriae Mundi (The inis Gloriae Mundi the opposite river bank.
End of the World’s Glories) A mighty chain would be
5Hospital de by Juan de Valdés stretched between
the two to prevent
Leal, while opposite
la Caridad hangs his morbid In ships from sailing
Ictu O
Ictu Oculi (In the Blink culi (In the Blink culi
Ictu O upriver. In 1760 the
Calle Temprado 3. Map 3 B2 (5 C5).
 Puerta de Jerez. v Puerta de of an Eye). Many of turret was added.
Jerez. @ 3, 21, 40, 41, C4, C5. Tel 954 the other works are The gold in the
22 32 32. Open 9am–1:30pm, 3:30– by Murillo, including tower’s name may
7:30pm daily. & St John of God refer to gilded
Carrying a Sick Man, azulejos that once
Founded in 1674, this charity portraits of the clad its walls, or to
hospital is still used today as a Child Jesus, St John The Torre del Oro, built New World treasures
sanctuary for the elderly and the Baptist as a Boy by the Almohads unloaded here. The
the infirm. In the gardens and St Isabel of tower has had many
opposite the entrance stands a Hungary Curing the Lepers. uses, but is now the Museo
statue of its benefactor, Miguel Looking south from the Marítimo, exhibiting maritime
de Mañara. The complex was hospital’s entrance you can maps and antiques.
designed by Pedro Sánchez
Falconete. The façade of the Don Juan of Seville
hospital church, with its
whitewashed walls, terracotta Miguel de Mañara (1626–79),
stonework and framed azulejos founder and subsequent
(see p80) provides a glorious benefactor of the Hospital de la
example of Sevillian Baroque. Caridad, is frequently linked with
Inside are two square patios Don Juan Tenorio. The amorous
adorned with plants, 18th- conquests of the legendary
century Dutch azulejos and Sevillian seducer were first
fountains with Italian statues documented in 1630 in a play by
depicting Charity and Mercy. Tirso de Molina. They have since
inspired works by Mozart, Molière,
At their northern end a passage Byron and Shaw. Mañara is
to the right leads to another thought to have led an equally
patio, where a 13th-century dissolute life prior to his conversion
arch from the city’s shipyards to philanthropy – apparently this
survives. A bust of Mañara was prompted by a premonition
stands amid rose bushes. Inside of his own funeral which he The legendary Don Juan
the church there are many experienced one drunken night. with two of his conquests
original canvases by some of



SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA  75

SANTA CRUZ

The Barrio de Santa Cruz, Seville’s old Jewish Esteban Murillo lived here in the 17th century
quarter, is a warren of white alleys and patios while his contemporary, Juan de Valdés Leal,
that has long been the most picturesque decorated the Hospital de los Venerables
corner of the city. Many of the best-known with fine Baroque frescoes.
sights are grouped here: the cavernous Further north, busy Calle Sierpes is one
Gothic cathedral with its landmark Giralda; of Seville’s favourite shopping streets.
the splendid Real Alcázar with the royal Its adjacent market squares, such as the
palaces and lush Jardines del Alcázar; and charming Plaza del Salvador, provided
the Archivo de Indias, whose documents backdrops for Cervantes’ stories. Nearby,
tell of Spain’s exploration and conquest of the ornate façades and interiors of the
the New World. Ayuntamiento and the Casa de Pilatos, a
Spreading northeast from these great gem of Andalucían architecture, testify to
monuments is an enchanting maze of the great wealth and artistry that flowed
whitewashed streets. The artist Bartolomé into the city in the 16th century.


JUAN DE JAUREGUI Sights at a Glance
L A R A Ñ A MESA DIEGO DE
I M A G E N
PL SAN ARAPILES MERLO Streets, Squares
PEDRO A L H O N D I G A C A L L E CALLE AZAFRAN and Gardens
CUNA
JOSE LUIS LUQUE
GOYENETA
PLAZA MEJIAS 2 Calle Sierpes
CRISTO DE
LAGAR PEREZ BURGOS FRANCIS CO LANZA NAVARROS CONDE NEGRO RECAREDO 8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
CAL LE
9 Plaza del Triunfo
S ANTIAGO
GALDOS CALLE CALLE IMPERIAL CALERIA DE LOS DE e Jardines de Murillo
CUNA
CALLE SIERPES
LINEROS
SAGASTA PL DEL HUELVA ODREROS BOTEROS CABALLERIZAS Churches
V E L A ZQ UEZ
FA F
FA A FA
ALFA L LFA
SALVADOR CALLE CALLE
VILLEGAS CALL E AGUILAS 4 Iglesia del Salvador
MANUEL REY
CORTINA CALLE SAN DEL L I R IO S A N E S T E B A N 7 Seville Cathedral and
FRANCOS M R MARCOS ISIDORO MUÑOZ Y PABON VIRGENES CALLE VIDRIO Historic Buildings
TETUA N
La Giralda pp82–3
CORRAL
CALLE DE MOLINA CALLE AIRE FEDERICO RUBIO SAN CALLE DE MERCEDARIAS 3 Ayuntamiento
PL DE SAN CALLE ALVAREZ QUINTERO V LV LVA P PA CONDE DE IBARRA
FRANCISCO PL DE LAS PL ZURRADORES 1 Palacio de Lebrija
ARGOTE DE CALLE ABAD ES EL BUENO F F JOSE LEVIES CESPEDES P E L A Y O 5 Museo del Baile Flamenco
AVDA
6 Casa de Pilatos
COLON
GUZMAN
DE
HERNANDO
ARCHEROS
LA
ALEMANES ANGELES F A A BIOLA 0 Archivo de Indias
PL VIRGEN MATEO S S GAGO SANTA MARÍA LA B LANCA CAN O Y CUETO q Real Alcázar pp86–7
DE LOS REYES O O XIMENEZ DE ENCISO CRUCES M E N E N D E Z w Hospital de los Venerables
T
TA
PLAZA DEL STA TERESA PLAZA
CONSTITUCION
PL
TRIUNFO DOÑA REFINADORES Restaurants pp228–9
ELVIRA PLAZA
ALFARO D E 1 Albarama
Archivo AGUA JARDINES
de Indias JUDERIA DE MURILLO 2 Becerrita
3 Casa Plácido
PLAZA C A L L E
CONTRATACION 4 Casa Robles
5 Corral del Agua
JARDINES DEL 6 Doña Elvira
Puerta ALCÁZAR
PUERTA de Jerez 7 Donaire Azabache
DE JEREZ
8 Hard Rock Café
9 Mama Bistro
10 El Modesto
PL DON
CALLE SAN FERNANDO
JUAN DE 11 Oriza
AUSTRIA
12 La Quinta Braseria
13 San Marco
14 El Traga
15 Vineria San Telmo
See also Street Finder 0 metres 400
maps 1, 2, 4, 5, 6 0 yards 400
Mudéjar tiles in the Patio de las Doncellas (Courtyard of the Maidens) at Real Alcázar For keys to symbols see back flap

76  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Santa Cruz

The maze of narrow streets to the east of Seville
cathedral and the Real Alcázar represents Seville at its
most romantic and compact. As well as the expected
souvenir shops, tapas bars and strolling guitarists, there
are plenty of picturesque alleys, hidden plazas and flower-
decked patios to reward the casual wanderer. Once a
Jewish ghetto, its restored buildings, with characteristic
window grilles, are now a harmonious mix of up-market 8 Plaza Virgen de los Reyes
residences and tourist accommodation. Good bars and Horse carriages line this plaza which
restaurants make the area well worth a visit. has an early 20th-century fountain
by José Lafita.y José Lafita.
b
Palacio Arzobispal, the
18th-century Archbishop’s Palace,
is still used by Seville’s clergy.

MATEOS
Convento de la
Encarnación (see p84) AVENIDA






DE
ROMERO MURUBE
LA



CONSTITUCION



7 . Seville Cathedral
and La Giralda
This huge Gothic cathedral
and its Moorish bell tower are SANTO TOMAS
Seville’s most popular sights. MAÑARA
MIGUEL





9 Plaza
del Triunfo
A Baroque
column celebrates
the city’s survival of
the great arthquake
of 1755. Opposite
0 Archivo de Indias is a modern statue
Built in the 16th century as a merchants’ exchange, of the Immaculate
the Archive of the Indies now houses documents Conception.
relating to the Spanish colonization of the Americas.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9

SANT A CRUZ  77

Calle Mateos Gago LA MACARENA
This street is filled with souvenir shops
and tapas bars. Bar Giralda at No. 2, with
vaults that are the remains of a Moorish EL ARENAL SANTA CRUZ
bath, is particularly popular for its wide
variety of tapas. Guadalquivir



Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 5–6


Plaza Santa Cruz is
adorned by an ornate
MESON DEL MORO iron cross from 1692.
XIMENEZ ENCISO T
GAGO SANTA TERESA
TA

PLAZA
REINOSO LOPE DE RUEDA STA CRUZ
RODRIGO
CARO
JAMERDANA
GLORIA



PL DOÑA JUSTINO DE NEVE w . Hospital
CALLEJON DEL AGUA This 17th-century
ELVIRA
de los Venerables
home for elderly priests
has a splendidly restored
SUSONA
PIMIENTA
Baroque church.
VIDA
Callejón del Agua
This alley alongside
the Alcázar walls offers
enchanting glimpses
into plant-filled patios.
Washington Irving
(see p57) stayed at No. 2.






q . Real Alcázar 0 metres 50
Seville’s Royal Palaces are 0 yards 50
a rewarding combination
of exquisite Mudéjar (see
p28) craftmanship, regal Key
grandeur and beautifully
landscaped gardens. Suggested route

78  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


of marble from Medina Azahara the anachronistic, upholstered
(see p142) are displayed in world of the Real Círculo de
rooms off the main patio. Labradores, a private men’s
club founded in 1856. Right at
the end of the street, take the
2Calle Sierpes opportunity to peruse Seville’s
best-known pastelería (cake
Map 3 C1 (5 C3).
shop), La Campana.
The street of the snakes,
running north from Plaza
de San Francisco, is Seville’s
main pedestrianized shopping
promenade. Long-established
stores selling the Sevillian
Roman mosaic, from Itálica, essentials – hats, fans and
in the Palacio de Lebrija the traditional mantillas (lace
headdresses) – stand alongside
1Palacio de Lebrija clothes boutiques, souvenir
shops, bargain basements
Calle Cuna 8. Map 3 C1 (6 D2). @ 27,
32. Tel 954 22 78 02. Open 10:30am– and lottery kiosks. The best
7:30pm Mon–Fri, 10am–2pm & time to stroll along it is when
4–6pm Sat, 10am–2pm Sun. & 8 the sevillanos themselves do –
∑ palaciodelebrija.com during the early evening paseo.
The parallel streets of Cuna
The home of the family of the and Tetuán on either side also
Countess Lebrija since 1901, offer some enjoyable window-
this mansion illustrates palatial shopping. Look out for the Plateresque doorway, part of the façade
life in Seville. The ground floor splendid 1924 tiled advert for of Seville’s Ayuntamiento
houses Roman and medieval Studebaker automobiles
exhibits. A guided tour of the (see p80) at Calle Tetuán 9. 3Ayuntamiento
first floor features a library At the southern end of Calle Plaza Nueva 1. Map 3 C1 (5 C3).
and art, such as the Moorish Sierpes, on the wall of the v Plaza Nueva. Tel 955 47 12 32.
inspired azulejos (see p80). Banco Central Hispano, a plaque 8 Open for tours only, 5 & 7:30pm
The house itself dates from marks the site of the Cárcel Real Mon–Thu.
the 15th century and has some (Royal Prison), where the
Mudéjar (see p28) features, famous Spanish writer Miguel Seville’s city hall stands between
including the arches around de Cervantes (1547–1616) the historic Plaza de San
the main patio. Many of its (see p55) was incarcerated. Francisco and the modern
Roman treasures were taken Walking north from here, Calle expanse of Plaza Nueva.
from the ruins at Itálica (see Jovellanos to the left leads In the 15th–18th centuries,
p136), including the mosaic to the Capillita de San José. Plaza de San Francisco was the
floor in the main patio. The This small, rather atmospheric venue for autos-da-fé, public
artesonado ceiling above chapel, built in the 17th century, trials of heretics held by the
the staircase came from the contrasts sharply with its Inquisition (see p55). Those found
palace of the Dukes of Arcos commercial surroundings. guilty would be taken to the
in Marchena, near Seville. Further on, at the junction Quemadero and burnt alive.
Ancient roman glass ware, with Calle Pedro Caravaca, (This site is now the Prado de
coins and later examples you can take a look back into San Sebastián, north of Parque
María Luisa, see pp102–3.) These
days, Plaza de San Francisco is
the focus of activities in Semana
Santa and Corpus Christi
(see pp38–9).
Plaza Nueva was once the
site of the Convento de San
Francisco. In its centre is an
equestrian statue of Fernando III,
who liberated Seville from the
Moors (see p52) and was
eventually canonized in 1671.
The Ayuntamiento, begun in
1527, was finished in 1534. The
east side, looking on to Plaza de
Tables outside La Campana, Seville’s most famous pastelería San Francisco, is a fine example
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9

SANT A CRUZ  79


of the ornate Plateresque
style (see p29) favoured by
the architect Diego de Riaño.
The west front is part of a Neo-
Classical extension built in 1891.
It virtually envelops the original
building, but richly sculpted
ceilings survive in the vestibule
and in the lower Casa Consis-
torial (Council Meeting Room).
This room contains Velázquez’s
Imposition of the Chasuble on St
Ildefonso, one of many artworks
in the building. The upper Casa
Consistorial has a dazzling gold
coffered ceiling and paintings
by Zurbarán and Valdés Leal.
4Iglesia del
Salvador
Pl del Salvador. Map 3 C1 (6 D3).
Tel 954 21 16 79. Open Sep–Jun:
11am–6pm Mon–Sat, 3–7:30pm Sun;
Jul & Aug: 10am–5:30pm Mon–Sat,
3–7:30pm Sun. &
This church has been completely
restored. Its cathedral-like Baroque façade of the Iglesia del Salvador on the Plaza del Salvador
proportions result in part from
the desire of Seville’s Christian Figueroa. Inside, the nave is bronze statue commemorates
conquerors to outdo the Moors’ by José Granados, architect of the sculptor Montañés. On the
architectural splendours. A Granada cathedral (see p194). In east side of the church, the
mosque first occupied the site; the Capilla Sacramental there is Plaza Jesús de la Pasión is given
part of the Moorish patio survives a fine statue, Jesus of the Passion, over to shops catering to
beside Calle Córdoba, boxed made in 1619 by Juan Martínez weddings – the Iglesia del
in by arcades incorporating Montañés (1568–1649). In the Salvador is a favourite among
columns embellished with northwest corner, a door leads sevillanos for getting married.
Roman and Visigothic capitals. to the ornate Capilla de los
By the 1670s the mosque, long Desamparados and a Moorish 5Museo del
since consecrated for Christian patio. Over the exit on Calle
worship, had fallen into disrepair. Córdoba, the bell tower rests Baile Flamenco
Work started on a new Baroque on part of the original minaret. Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos 3.
structure, designed by Esteban Adjacent to the church is the Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Tel 954 34 03 11.
García. The church was com- Plaza del Salvador, a meeting Open 10am–7pm daily. = &
pleted in 1712 by Leonardo de place for locals of all ages. The ∑ museoflamenco.com
Although flamenco was
The Sign of Seville
supposedly born across the river,
The curious abbreviation “no8do” is emblazoned everywhere in Triana, the Barrio de Santa
from the venerable walls of the Ayuntamiento to the sides of the Cruz has become its de facto
municipal buses. It is traditionally said to stand for “No me ha dejado” home in Seville. This museum
(“She has not deserted me”). These words of flamenco dance, occupying a
were reputedly uttered by Alfonso the restored 18th-century house on
Wise, after the city remained loyal to him a small street between the Plaza
in the course of a dispute with his son del Alfalfa and the cathedral,
Sancho during the Reconquest is intended as an introduction
(see pp52–3). The double-loop of the art form to the visitor. As
symbol in the middle represents much as a space for exhibits in
a skein of wool, the Spanish
word for which is madeja, the traditional sense, it is also a
thus no (madeja) do. venue for live performances of
The traditional emblem of Seville, flamenco and a school offering
here in stone on the Ayuntamiento regular classes in flamenco
music and dance.

80  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


The Art of Azulejos

Cool in summer, durable and colourful, glazed ceramic tiles have been a striking feature
of Andalucían façades and interiors for centuries. The techniques for making them were
first introduced by the Moors – the word azulejo derives from the Arabic az-zulayj or az-zulayj or az-zulayj
“little stone”. Moorish azulejos are elaborate mosaics made of unicoloured stones. In
Seville the craft flourished and evolved in the potteries of Triana (see pp106–7). A later
process, developed in 16th-century Italy, allowed tiles to be painted in new designs and
colours. The onset of the Industrial Revolution enabled azulejos to be mass-produced
in ceramics factories including, until 1980, the famous “Pickman y Cia” at the monastery
of La Cartuja (see p109).

Mudejar-Style Azulejos
The Moors created fantastic mosaics
of tiles in sophisticated geometric
patterns as decoration for their palace
walls. The colours used were blue,
green, black, white and ochre.







16th-century Mudéjar tiles, Interlacing motifs, Mudéjar tiles in the Patio de las
Casa de Pilatos Patio de las Doncellas Doncellas, Real Alcázar

Azulejos for
Commercial Use
As techniques for making
and colouring azulejos
improved, their use was
extended from interior
decor to decorative signs
and shop façades. Even
billboards were produced in
multicoloured tiles. The eye-
catching results can still be
seen all over Andalucía.
Sign for the Royal Tobacco Factory (now part of the Universidad, see pp100–101)
made in painted glazed tiles in the 18th century















Contemporary glazed Azulejo billboard advertising the latest model of Studebaker Motor Cars (1924),
ceramic beer tap situated on Calle Tetuán, off Calle Sierpes (see p78)

SANT A CRUZ  81
























Genoan fountain and Gothic balustrades in the Mudéjar Patio Principal of the Casa de Pilatos
6Casa de Pilatos surrounded by irregularly the apartments on the upper
spaced arches capped with floor. It is roofed with a
Plaza de Pilatos 1. Map 4 D1 (6 E3).
Tel 954 22 52 98. Open 9am–6pm delicate Gothic balustrades. In wonderful media naranja (half
daily (to 7pm Jul & Aug). & 8 1st its corners stand three Roman orange) cupola built in 1537.
floor. 7 ground floor. ∑ fundacion statues, Minerva, a dancing There are Mudéjar ceilings in
medinaceli.org muse and Ceres, and a Greek some rooms, which are filled
fourth statue, a 5th­century BC with family portraits, antiques
In 1518 the first Marquess of original of the goddess Athena. and furniture. Plasterwork by
Tarifa departed on a Grand Tour In its centre is a fountain Juan de Oviedo and frescoes
of Europe and the Holy Land. imported from Genoa. To by Francisco de Pacheco still
He returned two years the right, through the Salón survive in rooms, which bear
later, enraptured by the del Pretorio with its coffered these artists’ names.
architectural and decorative ceiling and marquetry, is the West of the Casa de Pilatos,
wonders of High Renais­ Corredor de Zaquizamí. the Plaza de San Ildefonso is
sance Italy. He spent the Among the antiquities bounded by the Convento de
rest of his life creating a in adjacent rooms are San Leandro, famous for the
new aesthetic, which a bas­relief of Leda and yemas (sweets made from egg
was very influential. His the Swan and two yolks) sold from a torno (drum).
palace in Seville, called Roman reliefs com­ Opposite the convent is the
the House of Pilate memorating the Battle Neo­Classical Iglesia de San
because it was thought of Actium in BC 31. Ildefonso, which has statues
to resemble Pontius Further along, in the of San Hermenegildo and San
Pilate’s home in Lantern in the Jardín Chico there is Fernando by Pedro Roldán.
Jerusalem, became a entrance portal a pool with a bronze
luxurious showcase of Bacchus.
for the new style. Coming back to the Patio
Over the centuries, subsequent Principal, you turn right into the
owners added their own embel­ Salón de Descanso de los Jueces.
lishments. The Casa de Pilatos is Beyond this is a rib­vaulted
now the residence of the Dukes chapel, which has a sculpture
of Medinaceli and is still one of dating from the 1st century AD,
the finest palaces in Seville. Christ and the Good Shepherd.
Visitors enter it through a Left through the Gabinete de
marble portal, commissioned Pilatos, with its small central
by the Marquess in 1529 from fountain, is the Jardín Grande.
Genoan craftsmen. Across the The Italian architect, Benvenuto
arcaded Apeadero (carriage Tortello, created the loggias in
yard) is the Patio Principal. This the 1560s.
courtyard is essentially Mudéjar Returning once more to the
(see p28) in style with azulejos main patio, behind the statue of Escutcheons in the coffered
and intricate plasterwork. It is Ceres, a tiled staircase leads to ceiling of the Salón del Pretorio
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9

82  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

7 Seville Cathedral and La Giralda

Seville’s cathedral occupies the site of a great
mosque built by the Almohads (see pp50–51) in
the late 12th century. La Giralda, its bell tower,
and the Patio de los Naranjos are a legacy of
this Moorish structure. Work on the Christian
cathedral, the largest in Europe, began in 1401
and took just over a century to complete. As
well as enjoying its Gothic immensity and the
works of art in its chapels and Treasury, visitors
can climb La Giralda for superb views over
the city, or enjoy views of the city from the
cathedral rooftop (reservations necessary).

. La Giralda
The Rise of La Giralda The bell tower is
The minaret was finished in 1198. In the 14th century crowned by a bronze
the original Muslim bronze spheres at its top were weathervane (giraldillo)
replaced by Christian symbols. In 1568 Hernán depicting Faith, from
Ruiz added the Renaissance belfry, which blends which it takes its name.
perfectly with the Moorish base. A replica has replaced
the original vane.


Group entrance










1198 1400 1557 (plan) 1568



KEY
1 Roman pillars brought from
Itálica (see p136) surround the
cathedral steps.
2 Puerta del Perdón
3 The Sacristía Mayor houses
many works of art, including
paintings by Murillo.
4 The Tomb of Columbus dates
from the 1890s. His coffin is carried
by bearers representing the
kingdoms of Castile, León, Aragón . Patio de
and Navarra. los Naranjos
In Moorish times
5 Puerta del Bautismo worshippers would
6 Iglesia del Sagrario, a large wash hands and
17th-century chapel, is now used feet in the fountain
as a parish church. under the orange
trees before praying.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9

SANT A CRUZ  83


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Avenida de la Constitucion s/n.
Retablo Mayor Map 3 C2 (5 C4). Tel 954 56 57
Santa María de la Sede, 43. Open Cathedral & La Giralda:
the cathedral’s patron 11am–3:30pm Mon, 11am–5pm
saint, sits at the high Tue–Sat, 2:30–6pm Sun. & 8
altar below a waterfall of free audioguide Mon pm. 7 5
gold. The 44 gilded relief Cathedral: 8–10:30am (8–9am in
panels of the retablo summer); Capilla Real: 8am–2pm,
were carved by Spanish 4–7pm. ∑ catedraldesevilla.es
and Flemish sculptors
between 1482 and 1564. Transport
v Archivo de Indias.
 Puerta de Jerez.

Main entrance







Puerta de la Asunción
Though Gothic in style, this portal
was not completed until 1833.
A stone relief of the Assumption
of the Virgin decorates
the tympanum.





























. Capilla Mayor
The overwhelming, golden
Retablo Mayor in the main chapel
is enclosed by monumental iron
grilles forged in 1518–32.

84  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


by an impressive Baroque
column beside the Archivo de
Indias. In the centre of the Plaza
del Triunfo a monument
commemorates Seville’s belief
in the Immaculate Conception.
In Calle Santo Tomás, off
the southeastern corner of the
Plaza del Triunfo, lies a building
used by the Archivo de Indias.
Formerly the Museo de Arte
Contemporáneo – now in the
Monasterio de Santa Mariá
de las Cuevas (see p109) – the
building is no longer open to
the public. Dating from 1770,
it was once a barn where tithes
collected by the Church were
stored. Parts of the Moorish city
walls were uncovered during
the renovation of the building.

0Archivo de Indias
Avda de la Constitución s/n.
Map 3 C2 (6 D5). v Archivo de
Indias. Puerta de Jerez. Tel 954
Baroque façade of the Palacio Arzobispal 50 05 28. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–
Sat, 10am–2pm Sun.
8Plaza Virgen which was founded in 1591.
de los Reyes The convent stands on grounds The archive of the Indies
that have also been the site of
illustrates Seville’s pre-eminent
Map 3 C2 (6 D4). Palacio Arzobispal: a mosque and of a hospital. role in the colonization and
Closed to the public. Convento de la The Plaza Virgen de los Reyes exploitation of the New World.
Encarnación: Closed to the public. was once home to the Corral Built between 1584 and 1598
de los Olmos (Courtyard of the to designs by Juan de Herrera,
The perfect place to pause for Elms), a rogues’ inn which co-architect of El Escorial near
a while and admire the Giralda features in the writings of Madrid, it was originally a lonja
(see p82), this historic plaza Spain’s greatest literary figure (exchange), where merchants
presents an archetypal Sevillian Miguel de Cervantes (see p55) – traded. In 1785, Carlos III had
tableau: horse-drawn carriages, on one of the convent walls a all Spanish documents relating
orange trees, flower-sellers and plaque bears an inscription to the “Indies” collected under
imposing religious buildings. At testifying to this. one roof, creating a fascinating
its centre is an early 20th-century archive. It contains letters from
monumental lamppost and Columbus, Cortés, Cervantes,
fountain by José Lafita, with 9Plaza del Triunfo and George Washington, the
grotesque heads copied from Map 3 C2 (6 D4).
Roman originals in the Casa de
Pilatos (see p81). The beautiful Plaza del Triunfo
At the north of the square was built to celebrate the
is the Palacio Arzobispal or triumph of the city over an
the Archbishop’s Palace, begun earthquake in 1755. It lies at the
in the 16th century, finished in centre of a group of UNESCO
the 18th, and commandeered World Heritage buildings – the
by Marshal Soult, the commander Seville Cathedral (see pp82–3),
of the French troops, during the the Archivo de Indias and the
Napoleonic occupation of 1810 Real Alcázar (see pp86–7). The
(see pp56–7). A fine Baroque earthquake devastated the
palace, it has a jasper staircase city of Lisbon, over the border
and paintings by Zurbarán in Portugal, but caused
and Murillo. comparatively little damage in
On the opposite side of the Seville – a salvation attributed
square is the whitewashed to the city’s great devotion to Façade of the Archivo de Indias by
Convento de la Encarnación, the Virgin Mary. She is honoured Juan de Herrera
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9

SANT A CRUZ  85


first American president, and the sacristy, the ceiling has an
correspondence of Felipe II. The effective trompe l’oeil depicting trompe l’oeil depicting trompe l’oeil
vast collection amounts to some The Triumph of the Cross by
86 million handwritten pages Juan de Valdés Leal.
and 8,000 maps and drawings.
An extensive programme of eJardines
document digitization is ongoing.
Visitors to the Archivo de Indias de Murillo
climb marble stairs to library Map 4 D2 (6 E5).
rooms where drawings and maps
are exhibited in a reverential These formal gardens at the
atmosphere. Displays change southern end of the Barrio de
on a regular basis; one might Santa Cruz once used to be
include a watercolour map from orchards and vegetable plots
the days when the city of in the grounds of the Real
Acapulco was little more than a Alcázar. They were donated to
castle, drawings recording a royal the city in 1911. Their name
corrida (bullfight) held in Panama commemorates Seville’s best-
City in 1748 or designs and plans known painter, Bartolomé Monument to Columbus in the
for a town hall in Guatemala. Murillo (1617–82), who lived Jardines de Murillo
in nearby Calle Santa Teresa.
A long promenade, Paseo de above the garden’s palm trees
qReal Alcázar Catalina de Ribera, pays tribute is a monument to Columbus,
to the founder of the Hospital incorporating a bronze of the
See pp86–7.
de las Cinco Llagas, which is Santa María, the caravel that
now the seat of the Parlamento bore him to the New World in
wHospital de de Andalucía (see p93). Rising the year of 1492 (see p131).
los Venerables
Plaza de los Venerables 8. Map 3 C2
(6 D4). v Archivo de Indias. Tel 954 56
26 96. Open 10am–6pm daily.
& except 2–6pm Tue & first Thu of
each month. 7 8
Located in the heart of the Barrio
de Santa Cruz, the Hospital of the
Venerables was founded as a
home for elderly priests. It was
begun in 1675 and completed
around 20 years later by Leonardo
de Figueroa. FOCUS (Fundación
Fondo de Cultura) has restored it
as a cultural centre.
It is built around a central,
sunken patio. The upper floors,
along with the infirmary and
the cellar, are used as galleries
for exhibitions. A separate
guided tour visits the hospital
church, a showcase of Baroque
splendours, with frescoes by
Juan de Valdés Leal and his
son Lucas Valdés.
Other highlights include
the sculptures of St Peter and
St Ferdinand by Pedro Roldán,
flanking the east door; and
The Apotheosis of St Ferdinand
by Lucas Valdés, top centre in
the retablo of the main altar.
Its frieze (inscribed in Greek)
advises visitors to “Fear God
and Honour the Priest”. In the Fresco by Juan de Valdés Leal in the Hospital de los Venerables

86  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

q Real Alcázar

In 1364 Pedro I (see p52) ordered the construction of a royal
residence within the palaces built by the city’s Almohad rulers
(see pp50–51). Within two years, craftsmen from Granada and
Toledo had created a jewel box of Mudéjar patios and halls,
the Palacio Pedro I, which now forms the heart of Seville’s
Real Alcázar. Later monarchs added their own distinguishing
marks – Isabel I (see p52) despatched navigators to explore the
New World from her Casa de la Contratación, while Carlos V
(see p54) had grandiose, richly decorated apartments built.













Gardens of the Alcázar
Laid out with terraces, fountains
and pavilions, these gardens provide
a delightful refuge from the heat and
bustle of Seville.














. Salones de Carlos V
Vast tapestries and lively
16th-century azulejos
decorate the vaulted
halls of the apartments
and chapel of Carlos V.
KEY
1 Patio del Crucero lies above
the old baths.
2 Jardín de Troya
3 Casa de la Contratación
4 The façade of the Palacio Pedro I
is a unique example of Mudéjar style.
5 The Patio de la Montería
was where the court met before . Patio de las Doncellas
hunting expeditions. The Patio of the Maidens boasts
plasterwork by the top
craftsmen of Granada.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and pp228–9

SANT A CRUZ  87


. Salón de Embajadores VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Built in 1427, the dazzling
dome of the Ambassadors’
Hall is made up of carved and Practical Information
Patio de Banderas. Map 3 C2 (6 D4).
gilded interlaced wood.
Tel 954 50 23 24. Open 9:30am–
7pm daily (Oct–Mar: to 5pm). &
Transport
v Archivo de Indias.  Puerta
de Jerez. @ C5.
Night visits with re-enactments
& Buy tickets in advance:
∑ alcazarsevilla.org

Horseshoe Arches
Azulejos and complex
plasterwork decorate the
Ambassadors’ Hall, which has
three symmetrically arranged,
ornate archways, each with
three horseshoe arches.











Puerta del
León (entrance)




Patio de las Muñecas
With its adjacent bedrooms
and corridors, the Patio of the
Dolls was the domestic heart
of the palace. It derives its
name from two tiny faces that
decorate one of its arches.

Plan of the
Real Alcázar
The complex includes
the Palacio Pedro I
and Spanish
National Trust
offices. The
palace’s upper
floor is used by
the Spanish
royal family
Key during visits to
Patio del Yeso the city.
The Patio of Plaster, a garden with flower Area illustrated above
beds and a water channel, retains features of Gardens
the earlier, 12th-century Almohad Alcázar.



SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA  89

LA MACARENA

The north of Seville, often overlooked by modern church stands a restored entrance
visitors, presents a characterful mix of gate and remnants of defensive walls, which
Baroque and Mudéjar churches, old-style enclosed the city during the Moorish era.
neighbourhood tapas bars and washing-filled Among many churches and convents in
back streets. Its name is thought to derive this quarter, the Monasterio de San Clemente
from the Roman goddess, Macaria, the and Iglesia de San Pedro retain the spirit of
daughter of the hero Hercules. La Macarena historic Seville, while the Convento de
is a traditional district and the power of Santa Paula offers a rare opportunity to
church and family is still strong there. peep behind the walls of a closed religious
The futuristic Metropol Parasol, a buzzing community. The 13th-century Torre de Don
urban space opened in 2011, makes for a Fadrique in Convento de Santa Clara is a
surprising gateway into the area, otherwise notable sight in the western part of the area.
best defined by the Basílica de la Macarena, Further north is the former Hospital de las
an important shrine to Seville’s venerated Cinco Llagas, now restored as the seat of
Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena. Beside this Andalucía’s Parliament.

Sights at a Glance
Churches and Convents Boulevards Monuments
1 Monasterio de San Clemente 3 Alameda de Hércules 7 Murallas
2 Torre de Don Fadrique Historic Buildings Modern Architecture
4 Basílica de la Macarena 5 Cámara Oscura e Metropol Parasol
9 Iglesia de San Marcos 6 Parlamento de
0 Convento de Santa Paula Andalucía Restaurants p229
q Iglesia de San Pedro 8 Palacio de las Dueñas
w Iglesia de Santa Catalina 1 Contenedor
2 Eslava

0 metres 500
0 yards 500


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PL SAN VIRIATO
CALLE DE ABAD E B A Ñ O S ZURBARAN LA PALMA GERONA PEÑ U ELAS MARIA
S J DE
GORDILLO
C A L L E
ALFAQUEQUE
PLAZA
PLAZA DE LA
DE LA
TERCEROS
VICTORIA DOÑA MARIA CORONEL
A L F O N S O PL DEL DUQUE ENCARNACION PL DE LOS ESCUELAS PIAS CALLE
X I I L A R A Ñ A I M A G E N JAUREGUI
Revered weeping statue of the Virgen de la Esperanza Macarena, Basílica de la Macarena

90  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: La Macarena

A stroll in this area provides a glimpse of everyday life in a
part of Seville that has so far avoided developing the rather
tourist-oriented atmosphere that is a feature of Santa Cruz.
Calle de la Feria, the main street for shopping and browsing,
is best visited in the morning when there is plenty of activity
and its market stalls are filled with fresh fish and vegetables.
Early evening, meanwhile, is a good time to discover the
district’s large number of fine churches, which are open 8 Palacio de las Dueñas
for Mass. It is also the time when local people visit the Boxed in by the surrounding houses,
bars for a drink and tapas. this 15th-century Mudéjar palace has
an elegant patio. It was the private
residence of the Dukes of Alba, whose
tiled coat of arms can be seen above
the palace entrance..
the palace entrance
Iglesia San Juan de la
Palma is a small Mudéjar
C A L L E C A S T E L L A R
church. Its brickwork
belfry was added in 1788.










Calle de la Feria F R ESPIRITU SANTO
E
On Thursday mornings, El Jueves, I
Seville’s oldest market, takes place A
on this street full of shops.
DUEÑAS
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CALLE GERONA
C
JERONIMO HERNANDEZ S A
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q. Iglesia de San Pedro L A
The church where Velázquez was In Convento C
baptized is a mix of styles, from de Santa Inés R
Mudéjar to these modern tiles the nuns make U Z
decorating its front. and sell cakes.
Key
Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229

LA M A C ARENA  91


9 . Iglesia de San Marcos
This 14th-century church, built on
the site of a mosque, has a Mudéjar Guadalquivir
tower and a beautiful Mudéjar- LA MACARENA
Gothic portal. The interior preserves
unique horseshoe arches.
EL ARENAL
SANTA
CRUZ
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 2, 5




P LAZ A S A N T A P A U L A
SAN
M ARC OS

E N L A D R I L L A D A








B
U
S
0 . Convento
T
O
San Román is a de Santa Paula
S
P E Ñ U E L A S 19th-century Mudéjar- The convent church portal
blends Gothic, Mudéjar and
Gothic church with a
fine coffered ceiling. Renaissance architecture.
T
C A L L E D E L S O L
R
A
V
E
R
A
PLAZA
DE LOS El Rinconcillo
TERCEROS
This bar is said to be the place where
tapas were first invented. Dating
back to 1670 it has a suitably old-
fashioned atmosphere and a
fine selection of food.

w Iglesia de
Santa Catalina
Gothic Santa Catalina has a
Mudéjar tower and apse
and, inside, a statue of
Santa Lucía, patron saint of 0 metres 75
the blind, by Roldán. 0 yards 75

92  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


1Monasterio de
San Clemente
Calle Reposo 9. Map 1 C3. @ C3, C4.
Tel 954 37 80 40. Church Open for Mass
only: 7:55am, 8:30am, 6:15pm Mon–Sat
(6pm Thu); 7:30am, 10am, 6pm Sun &
public hols. ∑ sanclementesevilla.es
Behind the ancient walls of the
Monasterio de San Clemente is
a tranquil cloister and an arcade
with a side entrance to the
monastery’s church.
This atmospheric church can
also be entered through an arch
in Calle Reposo. Its features range
from the 13th to 18th centuries,
and include a fine Mudéjar
artesonado ceiling, azulejos (see
p80) dating from 1588, a Baroque
main retablo by Felipe de Rivas
and early 18th-century frescoes
by Lucas Valdés.

2Torre de Don
Fadrique Marble columns at the southern end of Alameda de Hércules
Espacio de Santa Clara, Calle Becas s/n. 3Alameda de
Map 1 C4. Tel 955 47 13 02. Open Convento de Santa Clara. It
9am–2pm, 5–9pm Tue–Sat; 11am– overlooks a tree-lined courtyard, Hércules
3pm Sun. Closed first week of Sep. whose Gothic entrance was
built during the 16th century Map 2 D4.
One of the best-preserved as part of Seville’s first university
historical surprises in Seville, and transplanted here in the This tree-lined boulevard was
this 13th-century tower stands 19th century. originally laid out in 1574. The
like a chess-piece castle in the Constructed in 1252, the tower former marshy area was thus
formed part of the defences for turned into a fashionable
the palace of the Infante Don promenade for use by sevillanos
Fadrique. On the façade of the Golden Age (see pp54–5).
Romanesque windows sit After the relocation of the
below Gothic ones. More Sunday morning flea
than 80 steps lead to the market to Charco de la
upper floor, from which Pava (see p108), the
there are views across the Alamada was
the city towards La redeveloped in
Giralda and Puente 2006–8 and is now
de la Barqueta. a trendy, clean
The convent of promenade with a
Santa Clara was Gargoyle on the Torre bohemian charm.
founded in 1260, de Don Fadrique At the southern end
though the present stand two marble
buildings date from the columns brought here from a
15th century. The Mannerist Roman temple dedicated to
entrance portico is by Juan Hercules in what is now Calle
de Oviedo. Inside, the nave Mármoles (Marbles Street),
has a Mudéjar coffered ceiling where three other columns
and a superb main retablo remain. Time-worn statues of
sculpted by Juan Martínez Hercules and Julius Caesar cap
Montañés in 1623. The convent the Alameda’s columns.
has now been converted into a One of the main centres of
cultural centre, which hosts night life in Seville, the Alameda
Torre de Don Fadrique in the patio of classical music concerts as well de Hércules has an eclectic mix
Convento de Santa Clara as flamenco performances. of bars, restaurants and cafés.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229

LA M A C ARENA  93

4Basílica de la
Macarena Virgen de la Macarena
Devotions to the Virgen
Calle Bécquer 1. Map 2 D3. @ C1, C2, de la Macarena reach their
C3, C4. Tel 954 90 18 00. Open 9am– peak during Semana Santa
2pm, 5–9pm daily (from 9:30am Sun). (see p42), when her statue is
Treasury: Open same times as the borne through the streets
basílica. Closed Easter hols. & on a canopied float decorated
The Basílica de la Macarena with swathes of white flowers,
was built in 1949 in the Neo- candles and ornate silverwork.
Accompanied by hooded
Baroque style by Gómez Millán penitents and cries of ¡guapa!
as a new home for the much- (beautiful!) from her followers,
loved Virgen de la Esperanza the virgin travels along a
Macarena. It butts on to the route from the Basílica de
13th-century Iglesia de San Gil, la Macarena to the cathedral
where the Virgin was housed (see pp82–3) in the early
until a fire in 1936. hours of Good Friday.
The image of the Virgin stands Float of the Virgen de la Macarena in
above the main altar amid Semana Santa processions
waterfalls of gold and silver. It
has been attributed to Luisa
Roldán (1656–1703). The wall- views of the 1992 World Expo Pilatos. In 1540 work began
paintings by Rafael Rodríguez fairground, Cartuja Island and the on the new site, on what was
Hernández have themes Guadalquivir river. It projects real to become Europe’s largest
focusing on the Virgin. time images, with movement, hospital. Designed by a suc-
In the museum housed in the by using mirrors and magnifying cession of architects, its south
Treasury there are magnificent glasses over a periscope. front has a Baroque central
processional garments as well as portal by Asensio de Maeda.
gowns made from trajes de luces The hospital was completed
(suits of lights), donated no 6Parlamento de in 1613, and admitted patients
doubt by grateful bullfighters. Andalucía until the 1960s. In 1992 it was
The floats used in Semana Santa restored for the Parliament.
(see p42), among them La C/ Parlamento de Andalucía s/n. At the heart of the complex,
Macarena’s elaborate silver Map 2 E3. Open By written the Mannerist church, built by
platform, can also be admired. application or call the protocol Hernán Ruiz the Younger in 1560,
office. Tel 954 59 21 00. 7 8 makes up the debating chamber.
∑ parlamentodeandalucia.es
5Cámara Oscura
The Parliament of Andalucía 7Murallas
C/ Resolana s/n. Map 2 D3. Open has its seat in an impressive
noon–5pm Tue–Sun (but closed Renaissance building, the Map 2 E3.
when raining). Tel 679 09 10 73. Hospital de las Cinco Llagas (five A section of the defensive
wounds). The hospital, founded walls that once enclosed Seville
The camera obscura at the Tower in 1500 by Catalina de Ribera, survives along calles Andueza
of Perdigones has fantastic was originally sited near Casa de and Muñoz León. It runs from
the rebuilt Puerta de la
Macarena at the Basílica de
la Macarena (see p93) to the
Puerta de Córdoba some
400 m (1,300 ft) further east.
Dating from the 12th century,
it was constructed as a curtain
wall with a patrol path in the
middle. The original walls had
over 100 towers; the Torre
Blanca is one of seven that can
be seen here. At the eastern end
stands the 17th-century Iglesia
de San Hermenegildo, named
after the Visigothic king who
was allegedly martyred on the
site. On the southern corner of
this church, remains of Moorish
Renaissance façade and Baroque portal of Parlamento de Andalucía arches can be seen.

94  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


0Convento de
Santa Paula
C/ Santa Paula 11. Map 2 E5 (6 F1).
Tel 954 53 63 30. Open 10am–1pm
Tue–Sun. 8 &
Seville has many enclosed
religious complexes, but few are
accessible. This is one of them,
a convent set up in 1475 and
currently home to 27 nuns from
four continents. The public is
The Gothic-Mudéjar patio of the 15th-century Palacio de las Dueñas welcome to enter through two
different doors in the Calle Santa
8Palacio de 9Iglesia de Paula. Knock on the brown one,
las Dueñas San Marcos marked No. 11, to have a look at
the convent museum. Steps
Calle Dueñas 5. Map 2 D5 (6 E1). Plaza de San Marcos. Map 2 E5 (6 E1). lead to two galleries crammed
Tel 954 21 48 28. Open Apr–Sep: Tel 954 50 26 16. Open 7–8:30pm (to with religious paintings and
10am–7:15pm; Oct–Mar: 10am– 8pm in winter) Mon–Sat, 12:30pm Sun. artifacts. The windows of the
5:15pm. & except Mon after 4pm. Mass: 8pm (winter), 8:30pm (summer) second door look onto the
Mon–Sun (also 12:30pm Sun).
nuns’ cloister, which echoes
Built in Renaissance style with with laughter in the
Mudéjar and Gothic influences, This 14th-century church afternoon recreation
this pretty, late 15th-century retains several Mudéjar hour. The nuns make
palace is the official residence features, notably its Giralda- a phenomenal range
of the Dukes of Alba. After the like tower (based on the of marmalades and
death of the Duchess of Alba in minaret of an earlier jams, which visitors
2014, the ground floor of the mosque) and the may purchase in a
palace was opened to the public. decoration on the Gothic room near the exit.
Considered one of the most portal on Plaza de San Ring the bell by a
beautiful palaces in Seville, the Marcos. The restoration brick doorway nearby
Palacio de las Dueñas has lovely of the interior has to visit the convent
courtyards and gardens. Famous highlighted unique church, reached
Spanish poet Antonio Machado horseshoe arches in the St John the Baptist by by crossing a
(1875–1939) was born here, and nave. A statue of St Mark Montañés in the Convento meditative garden.
many of his verses highlight the with book and quill pen, de Santa Paula Its portal vividly
beauty and grandeur of this attributed to Juan de combines Gothic
extraordinary estate. Mesa, is in the far left corner. In arches, Mudéjar brickwork,
The palace is a treasure trove the plaza is the Convento de Renaissance medallions, and
of antiques and grand rooms Santa Isabel, founded in 1490. It ceramics by the Italian artist,
with elegant period furniture. became a women’s prison in the Nicola Pisano. Inside, the nave
There are also displays of family 19th century. The church dates has an elaborate wooden roof
photos and personal letters. A from 1609. Its Baroque portal, carved in 1623. Among its
room is dedicated to the history facing onto Plaza de Santa statues are St John the Evangelist
of the Feria de Abril (Seville Isabel, has a bas-relief of The and St John the Baptist, carved
spring fair) (see p42). Visitation by Andrés de Ocampo. by Juan Martínez Montañés.
Sevillian Bell Towers San Marcos San Pedro Santa Paula
Bell towers rise above the rooftops of
Seville like bookmarks flagging the
passing centuries. The influence of La
Giralda (see p82) is seen in the Moorish
arches and tracery adorning the
14th-century tower of San Marcos, and
the Mudéjar brickwork which forms the
base for San Pedro’s belfry. The churches
of Santa Paula and La Magdalena reflect
the ornate confidence of the Baroque
period, while the towers of San
Ildefonso illustrate the Neo-Classical
tastes of the 19th century.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229

LA M A C ARENA  95


Alhóndiga, the Gothic portal
is originally from the Iglesia
de Santa Lucía, which was
knocked down in 1930. Within
its entrance is a horseshoe arch.
At the far left end of the nave,
the Capilla Sacramental is by
Leonardo de Figueroa. On the
right, the Capilla de la Exaltación
has a decorative ceiling, circa
1400, and a figure of Christ
by Pedro Roldán.
eMetropol Parasol
Plaza de la Encarnación. Map 2 D5
(6 D2). Tel 95 547 15 80 (Museum),
Intricate pattern on a chapel door in the Iglesia de San Pedro 954 56 15 12 (Observation decks
& skywalks). Open Observation
qIglesia de María Coronel, cakes and decks & skywalks: 10am–11pm
San Pedro biscuits are sold from a Sun–Thu, 10am–11:30pm Fri & Sat.
revolving drum in the wall Antiquarium: 10am–7:30pm Tue–Sat,
Plaza San Pedro. Map 2 D5 (6 E2). of the Convento de Santa Inés. 10am–1:30pm Sun & public hols.
Tel 954 21 68 58. Open 9am, 11am, An arcaded patio fronts its & ∑ setasdesevilla.com
8pm Mon–Sat, 10am, 11am, noon, restored church, with frescoes
1pm & 8pm Sun. 7 by Francisco de Herrera and This ultra-modern structure,
a nun’s choir separated from commonly referred to as “Las
The church where the painter the public by a screen. The Setas” (The Mushrooms), is a
Diego Velázquez was baptized preserved body of Doña María striking contrast of modern
in 1599 presents a typically Coronel, the convent’s 14th- architecture and astounding
Sevillian mix of architectural century founder, is honoured archeaological finds: the
styles. Mudéjar elements survive in the choir every 2 December. Observation Deck provides a
in the lobed brickwork of its soaring view of the city, with
tower, which is surmounted by wIglesia de skywalks circling around the
a Baroque belfry. The principal core of gastrobars, while the
portal, facing Plaza de San Santa Catalina first floor has an open-air plaza,
Pedro, is another Baroque Plaza Ponce de Léon. Map 2 D5 (6 E2). which hosts cultural events.
adornment added by Diego Tel 954 21 74 41. Closed for The market buzzes with life
de Quesada in 1613. A statue of restoration; end date not known. on the ground floor, and the
St Peter looks disdainfully down Antiquarium museum, housed
at the heathen traffic below. Built on the former site of a in the basement, showcases
The poorly lit interior has a mosque, this 14th-century the archeaological remains that
Mudéjar wooden ceiling and church has a Mudéjar tower were found when this project
west door. The vault of one of modelled on La Giralda (see began in 1973, with extensive
its chapels is decorated with p82), best viewed from Plaza Roman ruins from the Tiberius
exquisite geometric patterns Ponce de Léon, which has been era (c 14 AD–37 AD), and a
formed of interlacing bricks. spared the customary Baroque Moorish house from the 12th
Behind the church, in Calle Doña hat. On the west side, by Calle and 13th centuries.

La Magdalena (see p72) San Ildefonso
(see p81)



SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA  97

PARQUE MARÍA LUISA

The area south of the city centre is Ibero-American Exposition of 1929. This
dominated by the extensive, leafy Parque international jamboree sought to reinstate
María Luisa, Seville’s principal green area. A Spain and Andalucía on the world map.
large part of it originally formed the grounds Exhibitions from Spain, Portugal and Latin
of the Baroque Palacio de San Telmo, dating America were displayed in attractive, purpose-
from 1682. Today the park is devoted to built pavilions that are today used as museums,
recreation; with its fountains, flower gardens embassies, military headquarters and also
and mature trees it provides a welcome place cultural and educational institutions. The
to relax during the long, hot summer months. grand historic five-star Hotel Alfonso XIII
Just north of the park lies Prado de San and the crescent-shaped Plaza de España
Sebastián, the former site of the quemadero, are the most striking legacies from this
the platform where many victims of the surge of Andalucían pride.
Inquisition (see p55) were burnt to death. Nearby is the Royal Tobacco Factory, forever
The last execution took place here in 1781. associated with the fictional gypsy heroine,
Many of the historic buildings situated Carmen, who toiled in its halls. Today it is part
within the park were erected for the of the Universidad, Seville’s university.

0 metres 400 Sights at a Glance
0 yards 400
Museums Gardens
7 Museo de Artes y 5 Parque María Luisa pp102–3
Costumbres Populares Historic Buildings
8 Museo Arqueológico 1 Hotel Alfonso XIII
Theatres 2 Palacio de San Telmo
PUERTA 4 Teatro Lope de Vega 3 Universidad
DE JEREZ
Puerta 6 Plaza de España
de Jerez Puerta CALLE SAN FERNANDO
de Jerez
JARDINES
DE Restaurants p229
CRISTINA AVDA DE ROMA PA LO S PL DON JUAN
Puente de PAS EO D E DE AUSTRIA 1 San Fernando
San Telmo
Prado de San
Sebastian
Sebastian
JARDINES L A F R O N T E R A Prado de San
AVENIDA DE CARLOS V
DIEGO DE RIAÑO
DIEGO DE RIAÑO
PRADO DE
DE SAN GRAL PRIMO DE RIVERA SAN SEBASTIAN
DE
GLORIETA
TELMO SAN DIEGO INFANTE CARLOS DE BORBON
L A R A B I D A AVENIDA DEL PERU AV E N I D A D E P O R T U G A L CIUDAD DE RONDA
L A S
INFANTE CARLOS DE BORBON
INFANTE CARLOS DE BORBON
AVDA MARIA LUISA EJERCITO
GRAN
TA
CAPITAN
T
PLAZA
G u a d a l q u i v i r
D EL IC I AS
ESPAÑOL
AVENIDA DE
CHILE AVDA CONDE DE COLOMBIA AVDA DE ISABEL LA CATOLICA A L P E R I Z
PLAZA
DE ESPAÑA
P P
P ARQUEARQUEARQUE
GLORIETA AVDA RODRIGUEZ CASO B O R B O L L A
MARÍA
DE LOS MARÍA
MARINEROS N I C O L A S
Puente del
Generalísimo P A S E O D E
GLORIETA See also Street Finder
COVADONGA
maps 3, 4
D E
A V E N I D A
LUISA AVDA HERNAN CORTES
AV E N I D A D E P I Z A R R O
P L A Z A D E
L A S
AVENIDA DON PELAYO
MU E LLE D E L AS DELI CI A S
A M E R I C A
G u a d a l q u i v i r
D E L I C I A S
AVENIDA DE MAGALLANES
A V E N I D A S A N T I A G O M O N T O T O
AV D A D E
AVDA MOLINI GLORIETA DE E R I TA Ñ A
MEXICO
Striking façade of the Palacio de San Telmo For keys to symbols see back flap

98  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Around the Universidad

South of the Puerta de Jerez, a cluster of stately To Triana
buildings stands between the river and Parque María
Luisa. The oldest ones owe their existence to the
Guadalquivir itself – the 17th-century Palacio de San
Telmo was built as a training school for mariners,
while the arrival of tobacco from the New World
prompted the construction of the monumental Royal
Tobacco Factory, today the Universidad de Sevilla.
The 1929 Ibero-American Exposition added pavilions
in various national and historic styles and also the
opulent Hotel Alfonso XIII, creating an area of proud
and pleasing architecture that will entertain visitors
as they walk towards the Parque María Luisa. Paseo de las Delicias
This riverside walk flanks
the Jardines de San Telmo.
Its name means the
“walk of delights”.

Pabellón de
Chile is now the
Escuela de Artes
Pabellón de Perú Aplicadas (School
Modelled on the of Applied Arts). S
Archbishop’s Palace A
in Lima, this pavilion C I
has a vividly carved L I
façade. It is typical of D E
the nationalistic S
designs used for the A
Exposition buildings. L


L A R A B I D A
Pabellón de E E
Uruguay D D
O O
E E
S P A P A S
G U A D A L Q U I V I R






Costurero de la Reina
Today it serves as the municipal tourist
office, but the “Queen’s sewing box”
used to be a garden lodge.
A V E N I D A D E M A R Í A L U I S A


0 metres 75
0 yards 75
Monument to El Cano, who completed
Key
the first world circumnavigation in 1522
Suggested route after Magellan was killed on route.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229