(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Seville & Andalucía

OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES AND SPECIALIST HOLID A Y S  249


feria (see p42), the pilgrimage to
El Rocío (see p42) and many
other fiestas. The undisputed
equestrian capital of Andalucía
is Jerez de la Frontera (see p166),
home of the Real Escuela
Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre,
which stages shows on
Tuesdays and Thursdays
featuring dancing horses.
A day’s trek on horseback can
be a splendid way to get to know
the countryside of Andalucía.
There are stables everywhere Horse riding on the deserted Atlantic beach of Zahara, near Cádiz
that will organize anything from
a brief outing to an extended Tennis Air Sports
riding holiday. Two of them are Tennis is extremely popular To find out where and how to
Dallas Love in the Alpujarras in Andalucía. To find out where hang­glide, balloon or parachute
and Los Alamos on the Costa to play, ask around locally. over Andalucía, contact the
de la Luz. For all things to do Many large hotels have courts Federación Andaluza de los
with horses, the organization to available for the use of guests, Deportes Aéreos.
contact is the Federación and there are also private clubs Because of its normally
Andaluza de Hípica. you can join. An inexpensive reliable weather conditions,
option is to book a court at Andalucía is considered a good
the local sports centre. For place for parachuting: Skydive
more information, contact the Spain has its own drop zone
Federación Andaluza de Tenis. near Seville and runs beginners’
courses as well as taking clients
on tandem jumps. For balloon
Water Sports
trips, check the Balloon Flights
Water sports such as kayaking Spain website for details.
and waterskiing are available at
all major resorts along the coast.
Sea­going boats can be hired Skiing
at most of the marinas. For The Sierra Nevada (see p203)
information about sailing in the is Europe’s southernmost
waters off Andalucía, contact skiing resort. Its base station is
The stunning golf course at La Cala de Mijas, the Real Federación Española at 2,100 m (6,890 ft), and its
near the beaches of Málaga de Vela. highest run starts from 3,300 m
Tarifa (see p173) has ideal (10,800 ft). The resort has 80
Golf conditions for wind­ and kite­ pistes, with a longest continual
Andalucía boasts more than surfing; the Hurricane Hotel run of almost 6 km (4 miles)
90 golf courses, mainly concen­ (see p219) will point you towards down the Pista del Águila.
trated on the Costa del Sol lessons and equipment rental.
(also known as the “Costa The headlands at La Herra­
Golf”, see pp36–37) and around see pp36–37) and around see pp36–37 dura, on the coast of Granada
the major cities. Most have province, and around the
18 holes and are open to non­ Cabo de Gata in Almería are
members on payment of a known for their scuba diving.
green fee; advance booking The Federación Española de
is recommended. Actividades Subacuáticas will
The largest golf club in direct you to the nearest dive
Andalucía is La Cala Resort, school, where you can try an
which has three 18­hole introductory dive or sign up
courses and one six­hole for an intensive course.
course. Another outstanding Andalucía also has ten water
course is the Barceló parks (parques acuáticos)
Montecastillo Golf Resort, in especially aimed at children, with
Jerez de la Frontera, which is slides and wave pools. They are
used for the Volvo Masters and at Torre del Mar, Torremolinos,
other important tournaments. Granada, Mijas, Córdoba, Seville,
To find your nearest golf Almuñecar (on the coast of
course, consult the Federación Granada), Puerto de Santa María, Kite-surfing, a popular activity on the beaches
Andaluza de Golf. Huelva and Vera (in Almería). of windy Tarifa

250  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


something useful at the same
time is to go on a special-interest
holiday. If you want to get deep
into the heart of Andalucía, you
could try a flamenco dancing
workshop at La Fuente Centro
Flamenco in Granada. Beginner,
intermediate and advanced
levels are available.
Cooking is another way to
learn something about your
surroundings. Annie B’s Spanish
Kitchen runs residential courses
in Mediterranean cooking,
The impressive and atmospheric Arab baths in Granada while at Finca Buen Vino
you will be taught how to
Naturism Guadalpin Banus (Puerto Banus, prepare Andalucían cuisine,
Topless bathing is tacitly accepted Marbella coast) specializes in including dishes with North
at all resorts, most of which also Oriental Spa treatments, with African influences.
have one or more discreet, Japanese and Chinese influences Learning to speak Spanish is
officially recognized naturist as well as meditation, yoga and another obvious way to make a
beaches in a cove away from pilates classes. Guests at the holiday yield tangible benefits,
the main beach. Vera Playa Club Hotel La Fuente de la Higuera, but keep in mind that you may
in Almería is a hotel specifically in Ronda, can choose from a pick up an Andaluz accent
for nudists, and Costa Natura range of facials, wraps and rather than the more neutral
near Estepona is a residential massages or have a soak in pronunciation of central Spain.
“village” also dedicated to the Turkish baths. Villa Padierna Many private companies run
naturism. For further information Palace Hotel in Marbella focuses courses in Spanish lasting from
about naturism, contact the more on well-being, offering a week to several months, but
Asociación Naturista-Nudista slimming and anti-stress treat- a safe option is to make arrange-
de Andalucía. ments. The serenity spa at Las ments with the organization
Dunas, in Estepona, uses Ligne in charge of promoting the
St Barth products from the Spanish language, the
Spas and Spa Hotels
French Caribbean in its Instituto Cervantes.
Andalucía’s traditional spas are pampering treatments. The Other subjects on offer are
mainly small, out-of-the-way Marbella Club Hotel (see p218) not directly related to Andalucía.
towns where springs of thermal has a beachfront spa that offers Authentic Adventures will
or medicinal waters supply Thalasso, body and beauty teach you painting and photo-
hotels-cum-sanatoriums that treatments, including a seashell graphy, as well as taking you
treat patients with a range of facial massage. The Elysium Spa for interesting guided walks,
ailments. The main ones are at NH Sotogrande offers treat- and the Complejo Turístico
Alhama de Almería, Sierra ments such as hydromassage and Salitre in the mountains
Alhamilla (Almería), Alhama de a colour-therapy relaxation room. behind Estepona will introduce
Granada, Alicun de las Torres you to the delights of the
(Granada), Graena (near Guadix), night sky from its observatory.
Lanjarón (in the Alpujarras), Arab Baths
San Andrés (Jaén), Carratraca When Andalucía was under
(Málaga), Fuente Armaga at Tolox the sway of the Moors, it had
(Málaga) and Fuente Amarga many public bathhouses – the
at Chiclana in Cádiz. Contact equivalent to Turkish baths.
the Asociación Nacional de Although the last one closed in
Estaciones Termales for details. the 17th century, private
Spa hotels have seen a huge companies have been recrea-
growth in popularity. These tend ting their own “Arab baths”, with
to be larger, luxury properties hot and cold rooms and
and are often located beachside massages, in Seville, Córdoba,
or complemented with a golf Málaga and Granada. Sessions
course. The spa facilities are need to be reserved – and, in
normally reserved for the use of some cases, paid for – in advance.
hotel guests and tend to focus
more on pampering and beauty
treatments rather than providing Specialist Holidays
health-enhancing therapy. A good way to spend a week or An artist painting the coastal scene at
The spa at Gran Hotel two in Andalucía while learning Nerja, on the Costa del Sol

OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES AND SPECIALIST HOLID A Y S  251


DIRECTORY
Walking and Dallas Love Skydive Spain Villa Padierna Palace
Trekking Bubión (Alpujarras). Aerodromo La Juliana, Hotel
Tel 608 45 38 02. Carretera A474, Bolullos Carretera de Cádiz, km
Federación Andaluza ∑ spain-horse-riding. de la Mitación. Tel 955 76 166, Marbella. Tel 902 20
de Montañismo com 60 56. ∑ skydivespain. 06 76. ∑ villapadierna
Calle Santa Paula 23, com palacehotel.com
2° Planta, Granada. Federación Andaluza
Tel 958 29 13 40. de Hípica Skiing Arab Baths
C/ O’Donnell nº 16, 3º
∑ fedamon.com Sierra Nevada Córdoba
41001, Sevilla.
Spanish Steps Tel 954 21 81 46. Tel 902 70 80 90. Calle Corregidor Luis de
Calle Carreteria 6, ∑ fah.es ∑ sierranevada.es la Cerda 51.
Cómpeta (Málaga). Naturism Tel 957 48 47 46.
∑ cordoba.hammam
Tel 952 55 32 70. Golf alandalus.com
∑ spanish-steps.com Barceló Montecastillo Asociación Naturista- Granada
Cycling Golf Resort Nudista de Andalucía Calle Santa Ana 16.
∑ anna-nudismo.es
Ctra Jerez-Arcos km 6, Tel 958 22 99 78.
Biking Andalucía Jerez de La Frontera. Costa Natura ∑ granada.hammam
Apartado de Correos 346, Tel 956 15 12 00. Carretera de Cádiz alandalus.com
Orgiva (Granada). ∑ barcelo.com km 151, Estepona. Málaga
Tel 676 00 25 46. La Cala Resort Tel 952 80 80 65. Plaza de los Mártires 5.
∑ costanatura.com
∑ bikingandalucia.com Urb La Cala Golf s/n, Mijas Tel 952 21 50 18.
Costa. Tel 952 669 016. Vera Playa Club ∑ malaga.hammam
Fundación de los ∑ lacala.com Calle Aguamarga 1
Ferrocarriles (Almería). Tel 950 46 70 27. alandalus.com
Españoles Federación Andaluza ∑ veraplaya.es Seville
∑ ffe.es/viasverdes de Golf Calle Aire 15.
Tel 952 22 55 90. Spas and Spa Tel 955 01 00 25.
Fishing ∑ rfga.org Hotels ∑ airedesevilla.com
Federación Andaluza Tennis Asociación Nacional Specialist
de Pesca Deportiva de Estaciones Holidays
Calle Diego Fernández Federación Termales Annie B’s Spanish
Herrera 19, 2ª Planta, Andaluza de Tenis Tel 902 11 76 22. Kitchen
Puerta B, Jerez de la Tel 954 44 44 33. ∑ balnearios.org Calle Viñas 11, Vejer de
Frontera (Cádiz). ∑ fatenis.com Las Dunas Health & la Frontera. Tel 620 56 06
Tel 956 18 75 85. Water Sports Beach Spa 49. ∑ anniebspain.com
∑ fapd.net Urb. La Boladilla Baja,
Federación Española Ctra de Cadiz km 163.5, Authentic
Wildlife and de Actividades 29689 Estepona, Marbella. Adventures
Birdwatching Subacuáticas Tel 951 08 20 90. Tel 01453 823 328 (in
the UK). ∑ authentic
Avenida Dr. Miguel Ríos ∑ healthouse-
Foundation for Sarmiento s/n, Centro de naturhouse.com adventures.co.uk
Information and Tecnificación de Tenis Gran Hotel Guadalpin Complejo Turístico
Research on Marine 41020, Sevilla. Tel 932 00 Banus Salitre
Mammals 67 69. ∑ fedas.es C/Edgar Neville s/n, Carretera Comarcal 373
Pedro Cortés 4, Tarifa. Nueva Andalucía, Algatocín, Málaga.
Tel 956 62 70 08. Real Federación Puerto Banus, Marbella. Tel 952 11 70 05.
∑ firmm.org Española de Vela Tel 952 89 97 00. ∑ turismosalitre.com
Tel 915 19 50 08.
Iberian Wildlife ∑ rfev.es ∑ granhotelguadalpin. Finca Buen Vino
com
Tel 918 98 91 95. Los Marines 21208,
Huelva. Tel 959 12 40 34.
∑ iberianwildlife.com Air Sports Hotel La Fuente de ∑ fincabuenvino.com
la Higuera
Equestrian Sports Balloon Flights Spain Partido de los Frontones, La Fuente Centro
∑ balloonflightsspain. 29400 Ronda, Málaga. Flamenco
Los Alamos com Tel 952 16 56 08. Carretera de la Sierra s/n
La Zarzadilla 23, San Federación Andaluza ∑ hotellafuente.com 18413 Capileira (Granada).
Ambrosio Apartado 113, de los Deportes NH Sotogrande ∑ flamencolafuente.
Vejer de la Frontera (Cadiz). Aéreos Autovía A-7, Salida 130, com
Tel 956 43 10 47. Estadio de la Cartuja, 11310 Cádiz. Instituto Cervantes
∑ losalamosriding. Seville. Tel 954 32 54 38. Tel 956 69 54 44. Tel 914 36 76 00.
co.uk ∑ feada.org ∑ nh-hotels.com ∑ cervantes.es



Survival


guide





Practical Information 254–263

Travel Information 264–273

254  SUR VIV AL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION


The economy of Andalucía is heavily the UEFA Cup final and the European
dependent on tourism. The rich variety Grand Prix, which have led to an increase
of natural attractions and its cultural in the number of tourist facilities and an
heritage draw a large number of visitors improved infrastructure. The Junta de
to the area throughout the year. Many Andalucía has tourist offices across the
have even settled in this evocative region, region, offering a wealth of brochures,
home of all things quintessentially Spanish: maps and leaflets.
rich terracotta landscapes, olive groves, Try not to do too much at once, but
flamenco dancing, and corridas (bullfights). savour the particular delights of one or
Andalucía has successfully staged two places. Adjust to the slower pace and,
numerous high-profile sporting events such in summer, do your sightseeing early in the
as the Sierra Nevada Ski Championships, day before the heat becomes unbearable.

Local tourist offices usually have
details only of their environs.
Most tourist offices are well
organized, offering brochures
covering all kinds of services.
They have a range of leaflets
listing local festivals and can
also offer suggestions on
nightlife and shows, as well as
outdoor activities. For guided
tours, the tourist office will be
able to direct you to a number
of multilingual agencies, such as
El L
El L
El Legado Andalusi (“The Legacy egado Andalusi (“The Legacy egado Andalusi
of Al­ Andalus”), which
Guided horse-drawn carriage tours, operating in Andalucía’s main cities highlights Andalucía’s heritage
thr
through exhibitions and self­ough exhibitions and self­ough exhibitions and self
thr
When to Go
are legally required to obtain a guided cultural tours (see p272).
Any season is perfect for a visit to visa before travelling to Spain. The Andalucía tourism website
Andalucía. Spring boasts balmy Check the requirements with (www.andalucia.org) has a
weather and numerous festivals, your Spanish consulate. useful app which can be used
including the Holy Week Your hotel will take your on mobile devices.
processions and Feria de Abril passport details on arrival. If you
(see p38), as well as local fairs in lose your passport, or need legal Admission Charges
all towns, and the start of the advice while in Spain, contact
bullfighting season. Summer is your embassy or consulate. Many sights offer free entry to
hot in the region’s interior so it Spanish residents and members
is the perfect time to head to the Travel Safety Advice of the European Union. Others
vast coastline, while autumn
offers pleasant weather for sight­ Visitors can get up­to­date
seeing or rural excursions. Winter travel safety information
is mild in most areas, except in from the UK Foreign and
the Sierra Nevada (see p203) Commonwealth Office, the US
where you can hit the ski slopes. State Department and the
Australian Department of
Foreign Affairs and Trade.
Visas and Passports
Visas are not required for citizens Tourist Information
of EU countries. Visitors from the
US, Canada, Australia and New All of Andalucía’s major cities
Zealand do not need a visa for have several Oficinas de Turismo
stays of up to 90 days. For longer (tourist offices). Turespaña
visits, apply to your Spanish provides information on Spain
consulate for a permit (visado) at a national level, while offices
several months in advance. run by the Junta de Andalucía Many monuments and museums offer free
Visitors from all other countries cover Andalucía as a region. or discounted entry
Metro-Centro tram in Seville’s city centre

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  255


charge a moderate fee (with expected. Tourist offices and
relevant ID, seniors, students and hotels are usually able to
children receive discounts). Large provide details of churches
groups should make advance holding services in English.
reservations, and may be offered
a discount. In Granada, Córdoba, Public Conveniences
Baeza, Úbeda and Jaén, a bono
turístico (tourist pass) allows Public toilets are scarce.
entrance to various monuments However, there is a bar on
and museums for a reduced fixed virtually every corner that is
rate. At many sights, credit card legally bound to allow you to
payments are not accepted. use its toilets. Another option
is to head to a department
store, like El Corte Inglés.
Opening Hours Ladies should look for a “D”
The majority of museums and (Damas) or “M” (Mujeres) on
monuments are operated by the door; while men’s rooms
the Junta de Andalucía and are are marked with an “H”
usually open 10am–8pm from Visitors outside a church in the town of (Hombres) or a “C” (Caballeros).
mid-September to May, and El Rocío in Andalucía Watch out for signs in public
9am–3pm from June to mid- toilets within older buildings
September, staying open during the bill for a round of drinks is that state “No tirar papel al WC”
the siesta. Most are open Sunday not shared. The Spanish tend to (do not flush paper or other
and public holidays 10am–3pm, dress smartly, so wearing very objects down the toilet).
but close all day Monday. Ticket casual clothes and shoes will
offices close an hour before the readily identify you as a tourist. Taxes and Tipping
sight closes. Many churches open However, few venues have a
only for Mass, but in small towns strict dress code so smart-casual If you are not a European Union
a caretaker will often let visitors in attire is accepted. Smoking is not resident, you can reclaim the
between religious services. Hours allowed in public indoor spaces. VAT (IVA in Spanish) paid on
for Mass vary, but tend to be to In bars and restaurants smoking goods bought in any authorized
8pm on Sunday, and between is permitted in the outdoor areas. shop in Spain. When you spend
7 and 9pm on weekdays. a minimum of €90.16 in the
same shop on the same day (see
Visiting Churches p238), ask for information on
Language
In most towns, tourists are how to claim your refund. See
The Costa del Sol has many welcome in the church during a www.premiertaxfree.com
multilingual residents and service as long as they are quiet Tipping tends to be an issue
establishments. In major city and respectful. Dress codes in of discretion in Spain. A service
centres people working in the Spanish churches are not as charge (servicio) is usually
service industry will have at least strict as in other Catholic included (see p221) in the bill,
a basic level of English, but in countries, but avoid skimpy but in more upmarket
rural towns you are likely to hear shorts and bare shoulders. There restaurants you are expected to
mainly Spanish. Most people are is usually no admission charge, tip around five per cent in
accommodating and will try their except in larger cathedrals, addition. It is also common to
best to communicate with you. although a donation may be round up the fare for taxi drivers.
Etiquette and Smoking
In Spain, strangers usually greet
each other on meeting in door-
ways and lifts – and even when
passing on the street in small
towns. When introduced to
someone, expect to shake hands.
Once they are familiar, men
embrace and pat each other on
the shoulder, and female friends
greet each other with a hug or
kiss on both cheeks. Spaniards
rarely drink alcohol without
nibbles until after dinner. The
waiter will not bring the bill
until you ask for it, and generally Upmarket restaurant in Seville where tipping is expected in addition to the bill

256  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travellers with
Special Needs
Modern buildings generally have
adequate provision for disabled
visitors, with lifts, ramps and
special toilet facilities. However,
entry to some historical
monuments may be restricted
so check ahead with the local
tourist office or monument staff.
Some historic centres have
pedestrian zones and bicycle
lanes, which can be used, with Local market stall with a colourful display of fresh produce
caution, by wheelchairs. Responsible Travel
Disability Rights UK, a towns and public places.
UK-based charity, and the Comité Andalucía has a dynamic gay There are a growing number of
de Entidades Representantes scene, with clubs, bars, hotels hotels and guesthouses with an
de Personas con Discapacidad and associations throughout the emphasis on green tourism.
(CEADIS) in Seville can provide region, particularly in larger cities. Andeco promotes ecotourism
travel information for disabled Colegas, an association that in Andalucía, while Top Rural
users. In Madrid, Servi-COCEMFE promotes gay and lesbian rights, lists accommodation through-
advises on suitable accommo- has centres in Córdoba and out the countryside. Glamping
dation (see p215). Seville. The International Gay & Hub provides a glamorous but
All public transport in Seville Lesbian Travel Association green way of camping, offering
is wheelchair accessible, with has an online directory of gay- many destinations in Andalucía.
electronic ramps or same-level and lesbian-friendly travel Every town and city has local
entry onto buses and Metro- businesses and tour operators. markets and shops that promote
Centro trams. their regional produce, and local
activities and festivals to provide
entertainment. Local farmers
Senior Travellers belong to cooperatives, which
There are many options for sell their produce in the markets
both leisurely and more active (Mercado de Abastos). Locally
holidays for senior travellers. grown meats and fresh fish from
Health spas are popular choices, regional waters are also sold
as are walking holidays. There International Student Identity Card here, but there will also be
are substantial discounts for some imported produce.
travellers over the age of 55 Travelling on a Budget Organically grown produce
staying in four-star hotels, Most large towns have a is referred to as ecológico; while
during the off-peak season. Centro de Documentación e organic meats are defined as de
US-based Road Scholar Información Juvenil, which corral, ecológica or orgánica, and
specializes in offering group provides information for will be marked as such in stores
travel experiences for seniors. students and young people. and markets. Market stalls that
A valid International Student exclusively sell organically grown
Identification Card (ISIC card) goods can be difficult to find in
Gay and Lesbian entitles you to some price bigger cities. However, on the
Travellers reductions, including museum second Saturday of every month,
In general, Spain openly accepts entrance fees and travel. an organic market, Feria
gays and lesbians. However, Many museums and Ecológica de Productores
discretion is still advisable in rural monuments offer free entry Locales, is held in the Plaza
one day a week, so it is worth Alameda de Hercules in Seville.
checking this in advance. Every town and city has local
To dine on a budget, order artisan shops. On Sunday
the menú del día (a two–three- mornings, Seville’s Art Market
course meal at a fixed price) or features works from local
choose tapas instead of dishes professional artists. Seasonal
from la carta. Another way to markets also feature regional
save would be to opt for locally artisans, with one of the most
brewed beer or house wines. impressive being the Mercado
Youth hostels provide de Belenes (Market of Nativity
shared minimal facilities for Scenes), held every December
a bargain price, while family- in the Plaza de San Francisco.
A Gay Pride Parade weaving its way run budget hotels offer Here you will find stalls offering
through the streets of Málaga more privacy. intricately detailed, handmade

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  257


nativity characters. Local activities is referred to as por la mañana Conversion Chart
and festivals such as Holy Week and the afternoon, por la tarde. Imperial to Metric
processions, fairs and music Afternoon starts after siesta 1 inch = 2.54 centimetres
festivals promoting local artists time, at around 5pm. 1 foot = 30 centimetres
provide unique entertainment. 1 mile = 1.6 kilometres
1 ounce = 28 grams
Electricity 1 pound = 454 grams
Time 1 pint = 0.6 litres
The current in Spain is 220V-AC
Spain is one hour ahead of with two-pin, round-pronged 1 gallon = 4.6 litres
Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plugs. Adaptors can be found
and British Summer Time, except in many local hypermarkets, Metric to Imperial
for brief periods in spring and supermarkets and electrical 1 centimetre = 0.4 inches
1 metre = 3 feet, 3 inches
autumn when clock changes stores. If you can, take one with 1 kilometre = 0.6 miles
are not synchronized. you to be on the safe side. Many 1 gram = 0.04 ounces
The 24-hour clock is used for hotels now use the key/card 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
written and official purposes system for switching on the 1 litre = 1.8 pints
but not in speech. The morning electricity supply in rooms.
DIRECTORY
Embassies and Tourist Disability Rights UK GRANADA
Consulates Information Ground Floor, CAN Centro de
Mezzanine, 49–51 East
Australian Embassy Oficinas de Turismo Road, London N1 6AH, UK. Información Juvenil
Torre Espacio, Paseo de la ∑ andalucia.org Tel (020) 7250 8181. Avenida de Madrid 5,
Castellana 259D, Planta Almería ∑ disabilityrightsuk.org Granada. Tel 958 20 46 52.
24, 28046 Madrid. Tel 913 Parque Nicolás Salmerón ∑ injuve.es
53 66 00. ∑ spain. s/n. Tel 950 17 52 20. Servi-COCEMFE JAÉN
embassy.gov.au Córdoba C/Luis Cabrera 63, 28002 Centro de
Madrid. Tel 917 44 36 00.
British Consulate Plaza del Triunfo s/n. ∑ cocemfe.es Información Juvenil
Edificio Eurocom, Calle Tel 902 20 17 74. Avenida de Andalucia 47–
Mauricio Moro Pareto 2, Granada Senior Travellers 5ª, Planta. Tel 953 21 91 56.
29006 Málaga. Tel 902 10 Calle Santa Ana 4. MÁLAGA
93 56. ∑ gov.uk/ Tel 958 57 52 02. Road Scholar
government/world/ Jaén 11 Avenue de Lafayette, Centro de Información
spain Calle Maestra 8. Boston, MA 02111-1746. y Asesoramiento
Tel 953 31 32 81 . Tel 1 800 454 5768 (outside Juvenil (INFOJOVEN)
Canadian Consulate US 1 978 323 4141). Calle Roger de Flor 1,
Edificio Horizonte, Plaza Málaga ∑ roadscholar.org Málaga. Tel 951 92 60 67.
de la Malagueta 2, 1st Pasaje de Chinitas 4. ∑ juventud.malaga.eu
floor, 29016 Málaga. Tel 951 30 89 11. Gay and Lesbian
Tel 952 22 33 46. Seville Travellers SEVILLE
∑ international.gc.ca Avenida de la Constitución Instituto Andaluz de
21. Map 3 C2 (5 C4). la Juventud
US Consulate Tel 954 78 75 78. Colegas
Plaza Nueva, 8-8 dupl, Plaza San Francisco 19, Tel 954 50 13 77. Calle Bilbao, 8–10, Seville.
Tel 955 03 57 16.
2nd floor, Seville. Edificio Laredo, Seville. ∑ colegaweb.org ∑ informajoven.org
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Tel 954 Map 3 C3 (5 C3).Tel 954 International Gay
21 87 51. ∑ madrid. 23 44 65.∑ turismo. & Lesbian Travel Responsible
usembassy.gov sevilla.org Association Travel
Travel Safety Spanish Tourist ∑ iglta.org Andeco
Office (UK)
Advice 6th Floor, 64 North Row, Travelling on Avenida Ramón y Cajal
London W1K 7DE. Tel 020 a Budget n°4, Marbella (Málaga).
Australian 7317 2011.∑ spain.info Tel 952 77 09 54.
Department of Foreign ALMERÍA ∑ ecoturismo
Affairs and Trade Travellers with enandalucia.org
∑ dfat.gov.au Special Needs Centro de
∑ smartraveller.gov.au Información Juvenil Glamping Hub
Comité de Entidades C/ Marín 2–2. Tel 950 21 Marion St, Denver,
UK Foreign and Representantes de 13 67. ∑ injuve.es Colorado.Tel (415) 800
Commonwealth Office Personas con 3004. ∑ glampinghub.
∑ gov.uk/foreign- Discapacidad (CEADIS) CÓRDOBA com
travel-advice Pabellón de la Fundación
ONCE, Isla de la Cartuja La Casa de la Juventud Top Rural
US Department C/ Leonardo Da Vinci 13. Campo Madre de Dios Paseo de la Castellana 79,
of State Tel 954 46 11 92. s/n, 14010. Tel 957 76 47 Madrid. Tel 911 23 83 11.
∑ travel.state.gov ∑ cermiandalucia.es 07. ∑ injuve.es ∑ toprural.com

258  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health

Andalucía is, by and large, a safe place for visitors. Women
travelling alone tend not be hassled, but may have to put up
with so-called compliments from men of all ages. Pickpockets
and bag-snatchers, however, are very common in cities, so be
cautious around tourist spots and on crowded transport. If
you must carry valuable items, avoid putting them all in the
same place. Wear a money belt and do not keep your wallet in
an easily accessible place. If you become ill during your stay,
go to a pharmacy, where someone should be able to advise
you. Organize travel insurance before leaving for Spain as it Mounted police officers from the
is difficult to obtain and more expensive once there. Policía Nacional

Police In an Emergency
a dark blue uniform, have many
There are three types of police responsibilities, such as dealing The telephone number for
in Spain – the Guardia Civil, the with visitors’ permits and docu- medical emergency services is
P P
Policía Nacional and the olicía Nacional and the olicía Nacional Policía mentation and they are also the 061. Report all serious crime to
Local. When approaching police best to turn to when reporting the local police, and for the fire
on the street, remember that it a crime. brigade dial 112.
is illegal to be without ID. The Policía Local handle the Policía Local handle the Policía Local
In rural areas you will usually day-to-day traffic policing of
encounter the green-uniformed towns and cities. Lost and Stolen Property
Guardia Civil, who patrol the Pickpockets are common in
country highways and will help What to Be Aware Of crowded areas. Beware of people
if your car breaks down (see trying to distract you while
p271). They also set up random The abundance of street-life someone else snatches your
road blocks to check for drink means that you will rarely find bag or wallet. Wear bags and
driving or other infractions. yourself alone or in a position cameras across your body, not
The Policía Nacional, who wear to be harassed. on your shoulder, and take
There are no particularly special care of mobile phones
notorious areas of Seville and laptops. At ATMs be cautious
to be avoided. Just act of loitering strangers. Take a
streetwise: do not use photocopy of your passport and
maps late at night and leave the original in the hotel
try to look like you know safe. Park in a secure car park,
where you are going. storing valuables out of view.
When visiting the Report any incident to the
Sacromonte caves in police (poner una denuncia) as
Granada to see flamenco soon as possible (within 24
Ambulance displaying the emergency number performances (see p197), hours), particularly if you wish
go in a group and keep to obtain a statement (denun­
an eye on your belong- cia) for an insurance claim.
ings. In cities such as
Seville, Granada and Health Precautions
Córdoba, beware of
Roma (gypsies) who will Beware of the sun, particularly
try to read your palm or in the summer months when
offer a sprig of rosemary, temperatures can reach up
then demand com- to 45° C (113° F). Try to avoid
Marked car of the Policía Nacional pensation (petty change walking in the midday sun and
doesn’t suffice). Your stay in the shade whenever
refusal to pay results in possible. Use sunscreen, wear
their outrage, and you a hat and be sure to drink
can have a difficult time plenty of water.
getting away from them. In rural areas, take any signs
Make sure that you showing a bull or saying toro
take official taxis bravo (fighting bull) seriously.
displaying a licence These bulls are extremely
number, although dangerous animals and should
Fire engine marked with contact number illegal cabs are rare. not be approached.

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  259

Hospitals and All the cities have several Travel and Health
Pharmacies Insurance
hospitals each, while the Costa
For minor ailments, visit a del Sol has a hospital situated All EU nationals are entitled
pharmacy (farmacia), where on the main coastal highway to Spanish social security cover.
pharmacists can dispense (N340) just east of Marbella. Before travelling, you must obtain
a wide range of For private care, the European Health Insurance
medication over the contact your insurance Card (see www.ehic.org.uk).
counter, but for many company for a list of Show your card or policy to
drugs you will need a centres covered by receive medical care. In some
doctor’s prescription. your plan. cases you may have to pay first
Farmacias have a All public hospitals and be reimbursed later. For
green or red will have private medical care, make sure
neon cross volunteer you have your policy on you
outside and are interpreters who when you request assistance.
found in most speak English Travel insurance is advisable,
towns. A few Spanish pharmacy signs and occasionally and should be arranged
are open 24 hours, but other languages. Keep before your trip. Carry all
most open 12 hours a day. in mind this is generally done documentation with you.
Some close for siesta. At least via speaker phone. If you need a lawyer, ask
one will be de guardia – ready The Cruz Roja (Red Cross) has your embassy or consulate (see
to dispatch out of hours. The an extensive network through- p257) to recommend one. Not
opening rota is posted on the out Spain and runs an ambulance all lawyers speak English, but
door of all farmacias and also service. Your hotel and embassy police stations may be able
in local newspapers. or consulate can provide a list to offer a volunteer interpreter
For urgent medical assistance, of English-speaking doctors (intérprete). Otherwise you may
go to the nearest Urgencias – and dentists. Dental procedures need to hire a Traductor Oficial
the emergency ward of a are safe and are generally much or Jurado to state your case
hospital or clinic. cheaper than the UK and US. and undertake legal work.
DIRECTORY
Local Police Córdoba Hospital General Granada
Stations Comisaría de Policía Avenida de las Fuerzas Calle Reyes Catolicos 5.
Avenida de los Ángeles Armadas 2, Tel 958 26 26 64.
Almería Custodios. Granada.
Tel 950 62 30 40. Tel 957 48 00 16. Tel 958 02 00 00. Málaga
Calle Mesonero
Córdoba Granada Romanos 2.
Tel 957 29 07 60. Ayuntamiento Hospital Reina Sofía Tel 952 61 08 36.
Granada Plaza del Carmen 5. Avenida Menéndez Pidal Seville
s/n, Córdoba.
Tel 954 24 82 11. Tel 958 24 81 03. María Auxiliadora 6.
Tel 957 01 00 00.
Málaga Málaga Oficina de Hospital Tel 954 41 62 61.
Tel 952 06 18 70. Objetos Perdidos Open 24 hours.
Calle Victoria 15. Torrecardenas
Seville Tel 951 92 61 11. Paraje de Torrecardenas Travel and Health
Tel 954 28 93 00. s/n, Almería. Insurance
Seville Oficina de
In an Emergency Objetos Perdidos Tel 950 01 60 00. Asociación
Calle Manuel Vázquez Hospital Profesional de
Ambulance Sagastizábal 3. Universitario Virgen Traductores e
Tel 061 and 112. Map 6 F5. del Rocio Intérpretes
Fire Brigade Tel 955 47 22 77. Avenida Manuel Siurots Apartado de Correos 55,
Tel 112. s/n, Seville. 47080 Valladolid.
Hospitals Tel 652 15 54 06.
Police Tel 955 01 20 00. ∑ aptij.es
Tel 112. Cruz Roja
Hospital Victoria Eugenia, Pharmacies European Health
Lost and Stolen Avenida de la Cruz Roja, Insurance Card (EHIC)
Property Seville. Map 2 E4. Almería Bridge House,
152 Pilgrim St, Newcastle
Tel 954 35 14 00. Carretera de Ronda 325.
Almería Tel 950 25 35 57. Upon Tyne NE1 6SN.
Oficina de Objetos Hospital Costa Open 24 hours. Tel 0845 605 0707
Perdidos del Sol (from abroad
Avenida del Autovía A-7 km 187, Córdoba +44 191 218 1999).
Mediterráneo 255. Marbella, Málaga. Calle Lope de Hoces 7. ∑ europeanhealth
Tel 950 62 14 98. Tel 951 97 66 69. Tel 957 29 33 57. card.org.uk

260  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Banking and Currency Wiring Money
To wire money, you can use
Andalucía has an extensive bank network with plenty of a bank or an international
ATMs, and finding a bank is not a problem except in the service such as Western Union
most remote villages. Banks in larger cities have the best or MoneyGram. If using a bank,
exchange rates. Other options for changing currency go to a large central office
where they may have more
include bureaux de change and hotels, though the latter experience. To receive money
often have poor exchange rates and charge higher fees. through a bank you will need
Alternatively, credit cards are widely accepted. a local bank account.
You can take any amount of foreign currency into Spain, but For both sending and
sums worth over €6,000 should be declared at customs when receiving money, Western
Union is available at all
you enter the country.
central Correos post offices.
MoneyGram is available at
select stores or public
Changing Money public holidays all banks remain telephone offices (locutorios).
Most banks have a foreign closed (see p41).
exchange desk casa de cambiochange desk casa de cambiochange desk
ex ex , DIRECTORY
and in building societies a caja ATMs
de ahorros. While Málaga airport Banks and Bureaux
has 24-hour exchange facilities ATMs are readily available in de Change
and at Seville airport the Iberia Andalucía. Look for the logo on Banco Santander
Airlines information desk offers your card to find an appropriate Avenida de la Constitución 3,
money changing, the rates are machine. ATMs have various 41000 Seville.
generally higher in airports. You language options. Check with Tel 954 59 78 02.
can change money at El Corte your bank regarding foreign
Inglés department stores, travel transaction fees and inform BBVA
Calle de Recaredo 23, 41003 Seville.
agents and hotels, although them prior to travel. Spanish Tel 954 53 52 98.
their rates are not favourable banks may impose a fee
and fees vary. (€2–3 per transaction), but Citibank
It is better to take enough exchange rates are better. Avenida República Argentina 24,
euros for your initial needs 41011 Seville.
before travelling, and to shop Debit and Credit Cards Tel 954 99 04 60.
around for the best rates at your Oficinas de Cambio de
leisure after you arrive. Credit cards such as American Moneda
You must show your Express, Visa and MasterCard, Francisco Javier León Lamela,
passport or driver’s licence as well as debit cards bearing Almirante Lobo 1,
to change money. the Cirrus or Maestro logo are 41001 Seville.
widely accepted all over Spain. Tel 954 22 95 73.
Contactless payments are also
Banking Hours Debit and Credit
accepted in many establish-
Banks open from 8:30am ments. Very few banks will Cards
to 2pm Monday to Friday. convert traveller’s cheques to American Express
A few banks open on Thursday euros. However, prepaid Tel 900 81 45 00.
evenings and Saturday currency cards, such as those MasterCard
mornings in the winter months. issued by Travelex, can be used Tel 900 97 12 31 (toll free).
During a town’s annual feria to obtain cash from ATMs and
week (see pp42–3) banking to pay for goods in most shops, Travelex
hours are reduced, and on restaurants and hotels. Tel 900 93 34 10 (toll free).
∑ travelex.com
Visa
Tel 900 99 11 24 (toll free).
Wiring Money
Correos
∑ correos.es
MoneyGram
∑ moneygram.com
Western Union
∑ westernunion.com
A branch of the BBVA bank, Seville

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  261

The Euro official currency are known as the monuments. The coins, however,
The euro (€) is the common Eurozone. Several EU members have one side identical (the value
currency of the European Union. have opted out of joining this side), and one side with an image
It went into general circulation common currency. Euro notes unique to each country. Note
on 1 January 2002, initially for are identical throughout the that the €500 note has been
12 participating countries. Spain Eurozone countries, each one discontinued, but it is still valid
was one of those countries. EU including designs of fictional and can be exchanged at any
members using the euro as sole architectural structures and bank in the Eurozone.

Bank Notes
Euro bank notes have seven
denominations. The €5 note (grey in
colour) is the smallest, followed by
the €10 note (pink), €20 note (blue),
€50 note (orange), €100 note (green),
€200 note (yellow) and €500 note
(purple). All notes show the stars of €5 note
the European Union.


€10 note





€20 note


€50 note


€100 note







€200 note

€500 note







€2 coin €1 coin 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents
Coins
The euro has eight coin denominations: €2 and
€1; 50 cents, 20 cents, 10 cents, 5 cents, 2 cents
and 1 cent. The €2 and €1 coins are both silver
and gold in colour. The 50-, 20- and 10-cent coins
are gold, while 5-, 2- and 1-cent coins are bronze. 5 cents 2 cents 1 cent

262  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Communications and Media Reaching the Right

The telephone system in Spain is run by Movistar. It is Number
efficient, but one of the most expensive in Europe. Public When dialling within a city,
phones are scarce, but you will find some locutorios (public province or to another
telephone call centres). Wi-Fi is available in most hotels, province, dial the entire
number – the province is
as well as in many bars and public places. indicated by the initial
Spain’s postal service can be slow but letters posted at numbers: Seville 954, 955;
central post offices will arrive at their destination faster. Málaga 951, 952; Córdoba
Digital TV and radio provide options for regional and 957; Cádiz 956; Granada
958; Huelva 959; Jaén 953;
international programmes. Newspapers, both in hard Almería 950.
copy and online, are plentiful in Andalucía. • International calls: dial 00,
wait for tone, dial country
and area codes and number.
International and Local • Movistar directory enquiries
Telephone Calls are on 11886.
• International directory
Public phone booths (cabinas enquiries are on 025.
telefonicas) and public telephones • To connect directly with
in bars are disappearing. If you the operator in your
locate a pay phone, they either country dial 900 followed
use coins or phonecards, which by the country code
are available from most 990061 (Australia);
newsstands and tobacconists 990015 (Canada);
(estancos). Phonecards are priced 990011 (USA); or
by their value in call units. 990044 for the UK.
Accessing Wi-Fi on a laptop at an
Mobile Phones
outdoor café urgent mail use the certificado
4G signal coverage is generally (registered) and urgente
good across Andalucía, though be found in nearly every major (express) mail services.
it might prove patchy in more city, offering free Wi-Fi. For an Main post offices open all
rural areas. Since roaming up-to-date map of Wi-Fi day Monday to Saturday; local
charges have been abolished hotspots, download the Free post offices open mornings
for EU member states it is much WiFi – Wiman app. only. A poste restante service
cheaper for visitors from the EU There are still some Internet in central offices enables you
to use mobile phones abroad. cafés in Andalucía, although to collect letters or parcels.
If you are from outside the they are not plentiful. Generally, A passport or other form of
EU and anticipate making many they offer other services as well, identification is needed but
calls while you are in Andalucía it such as document printing there is no collection fee.
might be a good idea to obtain and mobile phone SIM cards. Buy stamps (sellos) at any
a Spanish SIM and phone In Seville, the only centrally post office and at estancos
number. Make sure that your located Internet café is Internet (state-run tobacconists),
phone is unlocked to insert the Sevilla Locutorio, in front of the displaying a yellow and
Spanish pre-paid SIM card, or university. Most local libraries blue sign.
buy a pre-pay phone that also offer computers with free International couriers such
comes with a number of Internet access. as DHL and UPS guarantee
minutes included. Orange, urgent delivery worldwide.
Vodafone, Movistar and Yoigo Postal Services Call the central office to
are common suppliers, and their arrange a pick up.
products can be found at El The Spanish postal
Corte Inglés stores (see p241) or service between
at Phone House. major cities is
fairly efficient,
but between
Internet smaller towns
Wi-Fi is available in nearly all it can be slow.
hotels, and is usually free. There Letters posted
is free Wi-Fi in many restaurants, at a central post
bars and cafés, and also in some office usually
parks and plazas, such as Plaza arrive in reasonable
de España in Seville, and at time; although
railway stations. Starbucks can for important or A DHL delivery truck on a street in Seville

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  263


DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones
Movistar
∑ movistar.es
Orange
∑ orange.es
Phone House
∑ phonehouse.es
Vodafone
∑ vodafone.es
Yoigo
∑ yoigo.com
Kiosk selling newspapers and magazines
Internet
Addresses Biblioteca Corredera
on Friday.The local listings Centro Cívico Centro, Plaza de
In speech, on maps and in magazines are the Giraldillo la Corredera, s/n, Córdoba.
written information, Spaniards in Seville and the Guía del Ocio Tel 957 49 68 82.
often drop the Calle in street in Granada (see p244). FIND has
names, so that Calle Mateos complete cultural listings and Cybercafe Abakan
Calle Marcos 19, Almería.
Gago becomes just Mateos nightlife for the Costa del Sol
Gago. Other terms, such as and La Tribuna, Córdoba’s Internet Sevilla Locutorio
Plaza (Pza), Callejón, Carretera weekly free sheet, publishes Calle Fernando 35, Seville.
(Ctra) and Avenida (Avda), useful practical information. Locutorio Duquesa
remain unchanged. Málaga has Qué Hacer/What’s Calle Duquesa, Granada.
In addresses, a s/n (sin número) On. The online guide www. Meeting Point
after the street name indicates guiadelocio.com has current Plaza de la Merced 29, Málaga.
that the building has no number. listings of events and activities Starbucks
Outside towns, an address may for all provinces of Spain. Av Constitucion 11, Seville.
say “Carretera Córdoba–Málaga Tel 954 21 80 05.
km 47” – this means the sight
is on the motorway near to the Television and Radio Postal Services
kilometre sign. In 2010, Spain eliminated the
use of all analogue TV signals, General Information
Tel 902 19 71 97.
and changed completely to
Newspapers and digital TV as the standard signal, ∑ correos.es
Magazines providing around 30 TV Almería
The most important channels for free. Two Calle San Juan Bosco 35.
Tel 950 62 04 33.
national papers are are state channels,
El País (the socialist TVE1 and TVE2, and the Córdoba
paper with a daily main private ones are C/ José Cruz Conde 15.
Andalucían version), Antena 3, Cuatro and Tel 957 49 63 42.
ABC (conservative), (conservative),
ABC
ABC Telecinco. Inaddition, Granada
and El Mundo Andalucía has Canal Puerta Real 2.
(independent). Local Canal Sur logo Sur and Canal 2 Tel 958 22 11 38.
papers such as Ideal in Ideal in Ideal Andalucía. Canal Málaga
Granada, Diario de Sevilla, Plus is a cable TV company Avenida de Andalucía (El
the Córdoba Diario, Almería showing films, sport and Corte Inglés).
Diario, or the Málaga Sur, Málaga Sur, Málaga Sur documentaries. Subtitled Tel 952 36 43 80.
have extensive listings of local foreign films are listed by the Seville
cultural and sporting activities. letters V.O. (Versión Original). Avenida de la Constitución 32.
An English version of Sur is Sur is Sur The best radio news Map 3 C2 (5 C4).
distributed free in Málaga, programmes are broadcast Tel 954 22 47 60.
Granada, Almería and Cádiz on Radio Nacional de España. Couriers
on Fridays or is viewable online BBC World Service frequencies
at www.surinenglish.com. and listings can be found on DHL
The English paper Costa their website, www.bbc.co.uk/ Tel 902 12 24 24.
del Sol News can be purchased worldservice. With the all-digital ∑ dhl.es
weekly in kiosks along the signal, most programmes are UPS
Málaga coast. Almería province available in their original Tel 902 88 88 20.
also has an English newspaper, language simply by changing ∑ ups.com
Costa Almería News, published the TV language setting.

264  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Andalucía is well served by a wide range Seville and Málaga have good rail links,
of transport. Each year sees the arrival of and the AVE high-speed train between
thousands of flights, mostly from European major cities is often quicker than flying
countries, though some are from further (including checking-in time). There are
afield. Most flights from beyond Europe coaches from northern Europe and regional
stop in Madrid or Barcelona before arriving services in Andalucía. Ferries sail from Plymouth
at Andalucía’s busiest airport, Málaga. Located and Portsmouth to Santander and Bilbao;
a short plane or ferry ride from Morocco, with a 10-hour drive to Andalucía. Driving
Málaga serves as a gateway to Africa. Seville is not recommended in summer when the
airport also caters to international flights. number of cars on the road peaks.


for a complete service visit your
local travel agent.
Almost all package deals
to Andalucía focus on beach
holidays. However, some tour
operators also offer city breaks,
which can be cheaper in the
winter. Tour Andalucia offers
small group tours originating in
Málaga and Euro Adventures
One of Andalucía’s biodiesel-fuelled buses (EA Tours) offer food and wine
package holidays starting in
Costa del Sol, then following an
Green Travel
makers. Over-booking can be a itinerary, travelling by coach
Andalucía, has extensive problem in summer and flights along the Costa del Sol to
recycling initiatives, solar and are often delayed. Seville airport Seville, Córdoba, Granada and
wind energy and biodiesel- is much less busy and is Cádiz. Low-cost airlines also
fuelled buses. Most cab convenient for travellers staying offer cheap deals.
companies now have fleets of inland. Granada, Jerez and
hybrid cars. An efficient pubic Almería offer limited domestic Seville Airport
transport network makes it fairly and international flights too.
easy to get around the region Seville airport is 4 km (2.5 miles)
without a car. Trains and coaches north of the city centre. Iberia
are modern and comfortable, Fares and Package Deals and Air Europa fly to numerous
with extensive and reliable Fares vary widely and peak domestic and international
services. Many historic city travel depends on the desti- destinations. easyJet, Ryanair
centres have very limited access nation: May, June, September and Vueling Airlines offer low-
for vehicles, with large pedes- and October for Seville; June to cost flights, and charter flights
trianized zones, bicycle lanes and August for the coast, and also operate out of Seville.
a bike hire scheme (see p273). December to February for the Los Amarillos runs a daily
Rural Andalucía has a large Sierra Nevada. Book directly bus service between Prado de
network of natural parks and through an airline, or via online San Sebastián and the airport,
trails as well as rivers and lakes search engines such as www. approximately every 30 minutes
for water sports, although kayak.co.uk or www.momondo. from 4:30am to midnight. Taxis
depending on your itinerary a com, which compare numerous to or from the city centre cost
car may be necessary. servers to get the best deal, or between €22 and €31.

Arriving by Air
Most of Europe’s major airlines,
as well as some Middle Eastern
and American lines, run
scheduled flights to Málaga,
Andalucía’s main airport. A large
portion of the traffic, however,
is made up of budget airlines
and cheap charter flights, which
bring in thousands of holiday- Seville airport, conveniently situated just outside the city

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  265


with services from Heathrow, DIRECTORY
Gatwick, Luton and Manchester.
The airport has few amenities. Arriving by Air
Air Europa
Almería Airport ∑ aireuropa.com
Located 9 km (6 miles) west of the British Airways
city, Almería’s airport has limited ∑ britishairways.com
facilities. Flights are offered to easyJet
Barcelona, Madrid, Seville, Palma ∑ easyjet.com
de Mallorca, Brussels, Manchester
and Melilla with Air Europa, Air Iberia
Berlin, easyJet, Ryanair and ∑ iberia.com
Monarch Airlines. Monarch Airlines
∑ monarch.co.uk
Airport Car Hire
Modern interior of the ticket hall, Ryanair
Seville airport Major airports are well served ∑ ryanair.com
with car hire companies such
Málaga Airport Vueling Airlines
as AVIS, Enterprise, Hertz and ∑ vueling.com
Málaga airport has links to Europcar. Holiday Autos is a
about 120 international budget option, best booked Package Deals
destinations. Scheduled flights online. Hire your car prior to
are available from British your visit during high-season. Euro Adventures (EA Tours)
Airways, Iberia, easyJet, ∑ euroadventures.net
Ryanair, Virgin and Vueling. The Tour Andalucia
tren de cercanías (see p266) runs ∑ tourandalucia.co.uk
into Málaga and down the coast
to Fuengirola, every 20 minutes, Car Hire
from 6am to 11pm. The No. 19
bus, which runs every 30 minutes Avis
from 6:30am to midnight, also ∑ avis.es
travels into Málaga. Enterprise
∑ enterprise.es
An FRS fast ferry on the Tangier–
Jerez Airport Europcar
Tarifa route
Around 8 km (5 miles) northwest ∑ europcar.es
of the city, Jerez airport has Getting to North Africa Hertz
flights to and from some Most nationalities need only a ∑ hertz.com
destinations in the UK and valid passport to visit Morocco
Germany, as well as to Barcelona, for a stay up to 90 days. For Holiday Autos
Palma de Mallorca and Madrid. further information contact the ∑ holidayautos.co.uk
Trains and buses connect the Consulate of Morocco. Morocco
airport to Jerez, Seville and Cádiz. time is 1 hour behind Spain. Getting to North Africa
Acciona Trasmediterranea, Consulate of Morocco
FRS and BALEARIA operate
Granada Airport ferries from Algeciras to Ceuta; Camino de los Descubrimientos 4,
Granada’s airport is 17 km FRS, Balearia and Intershipping Isla de la Cartuja, Seville.
Tel 954 08 10 44.
(10.5 miles) southeast of the run from Algeciras to Tangier.
city on the main road to Málaga. FRS and Direct Ferries have Acciona Trasmediterranea
Facilities and flights are rather fast ferries (35–45 mins) from ∑ trasmediterranea.es
limited, but there are regular Tarifa to Tangier. Acciona BALEARIA
flights to Palma de Mallorca, Trasmediterranea runs from ∑ balearia.com
Barcelona and Madrid, as well as Almería to Melilla in 8 hours.
limited services to Melilla, Milan FRS also has a high-speed FRS
and Bologna. Gibraltar–Tangier Med route. ∑ frs.es
By air, Iberia, Royal Air Helicópteros Inaer
Maroc (RAM), Air Europa ∑ inaer.com
Gibraltar Airport and Air Nostrum operate from
This airport can be a useful arrival Spain’s mainland to various Intershipping
point when visiting the south- destinations in North Africa. ∑ intershipping.es
west of Andalucía. Flights are Helicópteros Inaer runs a Royal Air Maroc (RAM)
operated by British Airways, helicopter shuttle service ∑ royalairmaroc.com
Monarch Airlines and easyJet, between Málaga and Ceuta.

266  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Train expensive, offering both
day- and night-time travel.
Owing to the natural bottleneck of the Pyrenees, train Night trains offer the option
connections between Spain and the rest of Europe are a little of private cabins with beds.
restricted. However, a subsidiary of Spain’s national network, Media distancias run daytime
RENFE, runs a service that links Madrid and Barcelona to from city to city within a
limited area. Cercanías are
France, Italy, Austria and Switzerland. RENFE offers routes commuter trains running from
throughout the country, on a variety of trains, and at a high large towns to the suburbs.
level of service. The high-speed AVE (Tren de Alta Velocidad
Española) linking Seville, Córdoba and Madrid, and Málaga to Bookings and
Madrid (via Córdoba) has cut down journey times by almost Reservations
half, and is extremely efficient.
Train tickets can be booked
online or in travel agencies with
the RENFE logo. It is advisable to
book long-distance journeys in
advance; booking is essential if
you travel on public holidays
(días festivos) or long weekends
(puentes). You can book a ticket
up to 60 days in advance.
Alternatively, use an auto check-
in machine at major stations up
to 15 minutes before travelling.
Auto check-in machines can
also be used for making changes
to your scheduled itinerary.
Discounts are usually given for
advance bookings, last-minute
AVE high-speed trains at Santa Justa railway station, Seville bookings and round trips.
More information is available
on RENFE’s website.
Arriving by Train Train Travel in Spain
Trains coming from other The train network in Spain is
European countries to Spain very extensive with services Tickets
terminate in either Madrid or suited to every budget. Train travel in Spain is fairly
Barcelona. From Barcelona it Travelling on the AVE is the reasonably priced. Larga distancia
is about 5 hours to Seville by fastest option, with a money- and media distancia have first
high-speed AVE; from Madrid back guarantee that the train and second class (preferente/
it takes around 3 hours will reach its destination no turista). The tickets on Spanish
travelling by AVE. more than 5 minutes late. trains always show a number for
Andalucía’s most important They have drastically cut their your seat (or bed on sleepers).
stations are Málaga, Córdoba prices, now making them a Tickets are sold online, at main
and Seville’s Santa Justa. very attractive travel choice. line stations, at some cercanías
Connections to all major Other long-distance train stations and in RENFE-authorized
Andalucían towns and services, known as larga travel agencies. Cercanías
with Barcelona and Madrid distancia, are divided into tickets may be bought in the
(including over 20 AVE high- diurnos (daytime) and nocturnos ticket office or by using self-
speed trains) run daily. (night-time). Talgos trains are service machines. Credit cards
European and American slightly more luxurious and are accepted at all stations.
rail passes, including EurRail
and Inter-Rail, are accepted
on the RENFE network, subject
to the usual conditions.
However, keep in mind that
on certain trains you may
find a supplement is payable.
Major stations are accessible
to disabled passengers. It is
possible for passengers to
arrange in advance for assistance
in the station, through RENFE’s
subsidiary company, Atendo. The ticket counter at Córdoba railway station

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  267


Spain’s Principal RENFE Network
San Juan
Ferrol de Nieva
A Coruña Gijón Santander
Trubia Bilbao San Sebastián
Lugo Oviedo
Santiago de Compostela Vitoria
Pontevedra León
Ourense Pamplona Canfranc Puigcerdà
Burgos Portbou
Tui Logroño Pobla de
Palencia Huesca Segur Girona
Soria
Valladolid Lleida
Zamora Zaragoza
Oporto Barcelona
Salamanca Calatayud
Tarragona
Avila Guadalajara
Colmbra Plasencia MADRID Teruel
Cuefnca Castellón
Cáceres Toledo Key
Valencia
Lisbon Badajoz Ciudad Real Albacete Gandia Main station
Mérida Major rail route
High-speed AVE route
Córdoba Alicante AVE route under
Murcia
construction
Sevilla Jaén
Granada Aguilas Cartagena
Huelva
Faro
Málaga Almería Spain’s Rail Network operates a wide variety
Cádiz of services. Study a RENFE brochure or train
Fuengirola
Algeciras timetable before you buy your ticket.
facilities. For lost property,
ask at the office marked
Atención al Cliente.
Bus stops and taxi ranks
are located in front of
the station.
Córdoba
Córdoba has a grand, modern
station. Located in the north-
west of the city, it is just a few
minutes by car or taxi to the
Santa Justa railway station, Seville city centre. The AVE to Madrid
takes just 2 hours; to Seville
Timetables
tickets. The auto check-in 45 minutes. The station is well
The punctuality rating of trains machines allow you to print served with cafés, shops, auto
in Andalucía is quite high, out tickets reserved online. check-in machines and a
particularly for the AVE. Brochures Numerous amenities include tourist office. Outside, there
with prices and timetables are a café, tourist office, car hire are bus stops, a taxi rank and
distributed free and are easy agencies, shops, newsstands, car hire agencies. The coach
to follow. Information for ATMs and money-changing station is adjacent.
laborables (weekdays) and
sábados, domingos y festivos
(Saturdays, Sundays and public
holidays) is at the bottom of
the timetable.
Seville
Santa Justa is a modern and
user-friendly station, located
about 5 minutes by car or bus
from the city centre.
Use the self-service ticket
machines to buy cercanías Platforms at Córdoba railway station

268  SUR VIV AL GUIDE




















Platform at Granada railway station
Granada station will soon be linked Scenic Routes
Small and provincial, the station to major towns through a Travel by cercanías trains
in Granada is housed in an old Metro connection. offers some very scenic routes.
building and has few amenities. Málaga’s station has many The most remarkable is a
There is a small café-cum- amenities, including auto check- lengthy ride from Bobadilla
restaurant and a taxi rank in machines, luggage storage, (50 minutes north of Málaga),
outside. Most trains that pass car-hire agencies and a tourist which heads south through
through are regional or office. Outside, there are bus gorges and mountains, passing
cercanías but long-distance stops and a taxi rank. A four-star through picturesque villages,
trains do run to Madrid, Seville, hotel and large shopping centre before arriving in Algeciras. It
the Costa Blanca, Barcelona, are conveniently attached. takes about 3 hours and costs
Almería, Córdoba and Málaga. from €11.80.
Storage lockers are available. A shorter ride, from Málaga to
Almería
Fuengirola (30 minutes from the
Almería’s Estación Intermodal airport; 45 from Málaga station)
Málaga
train and coach stations share provides stunning views of the
Málaga’s Maria Zambrano the same building. Direct trains Mediterranean from the
station expanded when the connect to Granada mountains above for just €2.85.
AVE line was added, making it and Seville; to reach Córdoba
the largest in Spain. There is a you will need to make a DIRECTORY
direct daily train to Barcelona connection in Granada; for
and a connection to Madrid Málaga, change at Antequera. Travelling By Train
(via Córdoba). There is also a The station is small, with RENFE Booking Agents
high-speed AVE line direct to limited services such as a café, Tel 902 32 03 20.
central Seville under construc- bank, newsstand, some shops ∑ renfe.es
tion. A cercanías train connects and car hire agencies. Outside ∑ rumbo.es
to Málaga airport and the are bus stops and a taxi rank.
Handicap Assistance
Atendo
Tel 902 24 05 05.
∑ renfe.com/viajeros/atendo
Almería
Plaza de la Estación s/n.
Córdoba
Glorieta de las Tres Culturas s/n.
Granada
Avenida de Andalucía s/n.
Málaga
Explanada de la Estación s/n.
Seville
Avenida Kansas City.
Map 2 F5 & 4 F1.
Málaga’s Maria Zambrano railway station at night

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  269

Travelling by Coach Málaga
Málaga coach station is located
The major coach links between Andalucía and the rest of in the centre of town, behind
Europe are with France, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland and the train station. Coaches
Austria. Within the region itself, coach travel is very popular depart daily to all of Spain,
and has improved enormously. Most coaches now run on bio- as well as some international
destinations. The station has a
diesel and most have air conditioning and toilet facilities. café, newsstand, shop, Internet
Travelling by coach is very economical and thanks to café and money exchange.
Andalucía’s improved roads, it can be quick and enjoyable. A taxi rank and bus stops are
However, around the many holidays in the Spanish festive located outside.
calendar, travelling can be difficult: coach stations tend to be
over-crowded, coaches slow to depart and the roads busy. Almería
Almería’s coach and train
stations share a building. It has
Arriving by Coach little in the way of amenities,
The major coach stations in but does provide transport to
Andalucía are in Seville, destinations across Andalucía
Córdoba, Granada, Málaga and Murcia.
and Almería. Coaches run
frequently between major DIRECTORY
cities and towns, and may
provide the only public Coach Stations
transport to and from small Almería
villages, offering a chance Estación Intermodal
to experience local regions. The main departure hall of Plaza de Armas Plaza de la Estación s/n.
coach station in Seville Tel 950 26 20 98.
Tickets and Reservations Córdoba
stations have a café and Terminal Alsina Graells
Reservations for medium- to newsstand. At Plaza de Armas Glorieta de las Tres Culturas.
long-distance travel can be there is Metro and Metro-Centro Tel 957 40 40 40.
made at bus stations, online via (see p272) access outside.
Movelia (www.movelia.es), or on Granada
the websites of individual bus Terminal Alsina Graells Sur
Carretera de Jaén, Granada.
companies. You can buy tickets Córdoba Tel 902 42 22 42.
on board regional buses, but The main coach station in
during peak seasons it is wise Córdoba is run by a regional Málaga
to purchase them in advance. branch of Alsa, Alsina Graells. Estación de Autobuses
Discounts are given for round- It is basic, with a small waiting Paseo de los Tilos.
Tel 952 35 00 61.
trip tickets and there may be area, café, newsstand and
online reductions. lockers. Coaches depart Seville
“Supra” coaches operated by regularly for Granada, Cádiz, Estación Plaza de Armas
Alsa on popular routes are Almería, Málaga and Seville. Plaza de Armas.
direct and boast leather seats, Map 1 B5 & 5 A2.
extra legroom, free Wi-Fi, and Granada Tel 902 45 05 50.
on-board refreshments. Prado de San Sebastián Estación
In Granada, travellers may be Map 4 D3.
Tel 954 41 71 11.
confused by the choice of
Seville
coach companies, each with a Coach Companies
Seville has two coach stations variety of destinations. Alsa is
in the centre of town, Plaza de the largest coach company, and Alsa
Armas and Prado de San its station is referred to as the ∑ alsa.es
Sebastián. Buses from Prado central coach station. This station Damas
de San Sebastián head mainly offers routes all over Murcia and ∑ damas-sa.es
south, with destinations such as Andalucía. Coaches for Madrid Leda
Cádiz, Jerez and Algeciras. Both leave from the main train station.
∑ leda.es
Socibus
∑ socibus.es
Transportes Generales
Comes
∑ tgcomes.es
Regional coach operated by the Alsa company

270  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Driving in Andalucía Road Signs
Standard European road signs
Many of the main roads and motorways in Andalucía are new are used in Andalucía. However,
and in very good condition. The road network is continually signposting is often confusing
expanding, so always check a recently published map. Fold- and inconsistent, so be especially
out maps can be obtained at airports or tourist offices. You attentive when navigating in or
out of cities. When leaving a
should also bear in mind that the number of accidents on town, scan the road for direction
Spanish roads is quite high, due to the confusion in road rules. signs to other towns. Some are
Always drive with caution, but particularly in July and August small and easily missed. If you
when the roads are packed with holiday-makers who do not need to change direction, look
know the area. When visiting towns and villages, it is best to for signs, which say Cambio de
Sentido. They generally lead to
park your vehicle away from the centre and then walk in.
bridges or underpasses where
you can turn around.
Rules of the Road
Local Drivers
In Spain people drive on the
right, so you must give way to Many drivers in Andalucía
the right. At intersections and ignore road signs and speed
roundabouts always proceed up at amber traffic lights. It is
with caution. common for drivers to come up
The speed limits are 50 km/h close to the car in front to signal
(30 mph) in built-up areas; that they want to overtake.
90–100 km/h (55–60 mph) Indicators are not necessarily
outside them and 120 k/h used by Spanish drivers, so be
(75 mph) on motorways. Seat alert to the movements of
belts are compulsory both in nearby vehicles.
the back and front; motor
cyclists must wear crash Motorways
helmets. Drivers must always
carry two warning triangles In Andalucía almost all the
and a reflective vest, as well motorways (autovías) are toll-
Typically narrow Andalucían street blocked as a first-aid kit. free; except for the A4 autopista
by a parked car
Road Signs in Andalucía
Arriving by Car
Look out for the following road signs:
Visitors bringing their own Peligro, indicating danger, Obras,
vehicles from other countries meaning roadworks ahead, Ceda el
will need documentation in Paso, showing that you should give
Spain. You should always make way and Cuidado, advising caution.
sure you have your driving
licence, vehicle registration
document and insurance. Your
insurance company should be
able to arrange an overseas
extension of your car insurance.
To hire a car in Spain you need a
current driving licence and be
over 18 years of age.
If you are travelling from A road sign showing major Overhead sign indicating the
the UK you will need your routes at a crossroads road is a motorway
pink plastic photocard and an
International Driving Permit,
which can be obtained from
the RAC or the AA.
Most Spanish motorways
are well equipped with an
SOS network of telephones,
which provide instant access
to the emergency and Be alert to the fact that bulls Warning of the likelihood
breakdown services. Ask for may be on the road of snow or ice
auxilio en carretera.

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  271


(toll motorway) that connects of the residents, this can make it DIRECTORY
Seville and Cádiz, and the AP7 quite stressful to drive. Also,
along the Costa del Sol, which parking access is time-limited Breakdown Services
has some sections with tolls. in Seville and completely ADA
When driving on the autopista, restricted to city residents in Tel 915 19 33 00.
the toll booths are at sporadic some parts of Granada’s centre. ∑ ada.es
intervals. At the booths a sign Europ Assistance
posts the corresponding fare. Breakdown Services Tel 902 15 85 85
Drive into one of the lanes with (outside Spain 34 915 149 900).
a green light indicating the If you break down, pull to a ∑ europ-assistance.com
method of payment you wish safe location at the side of the RACE
to use. road. Put on the reflective vest (affiliated to the RAC in the UK)
(required to be carried in your Tel 902 40 45 45.
car at all times) and place
one reflective triangle in front Parking
and another approximately Almería
50 m (165 ft) behind the car. Garage Belén
If necessary, call for assistance, Avenida Federico García Lorca 42.
from breakdown services such Tel 950 25 30 60.
as ADA, Europ Assistance Córdoba
or RACE. Aparcamientos Isolux Corsan
Córdoba S.L.
Driving in the Sierra Nevada along one Avenida Custodios 2.
of the highest roads in Europe Parking Tel 957 29 96 19.
In Seville, on-street parking is Granada
extremely difficult to find and Parquigran
Driving in the is metered for a maximum stay Plaza de San Agustín s/n.
Countryside Tel 958 29 60 33.
of 1–2 hours. The best option
Only head off the major “N” for visitors is a parking garage – Málaga
roads (rutas nacionales) if you a few public garages operate, Parking Las Delicias
are not in any hurry. Some of otherwise some hotels offer Calle Don Rodrigo 3.
the minor roads in Andalucía parking for guests. Tel 952 21 24 78.
wind and climb, and their There are few car parks in Seville
surfaces will often be in poor Córdoba and parking costs Aparcamientos Magdalena
condition. In addition, although €1.50-2.50 per hour in Seville, Méndez Núñez 1.
Tel 954 22 83 33.
diversions may be marked, Granada, Córdoba & Málaga.
when you take them you may Car Rental
find they are inadequately
signposted. Taking a minor road Avis
may add hours to a journey. ∑ avis.es
Córdoba
Tel 957 40 14 45.
Buying Petrol Granada
Tel 958 44 64 55.
Many petrol stations in and Málaga
around Andalucía still have Tel 902 09 02 82.
attendants. Petrol stations out Seville
Tel 902 11 02 83.
of town tend to remain open Logos for AVIS and Hertz, popular
24 hours a day. At self-service car rental companies Enterprise
stations you generally have to ∑ enterprise.es
pay for the petrol before it is Car Rental Jerez (Cádiz) Airport
Tel 956 18 68 14.
dispatched. Gasoil (diesel) and In major cities, car hire agencies Málaga
sin plomo (unleaded) are usually are near the airports, with some Tel 952 23 18 58.
available. Credit cards are near train stations. Avis, Hertz Seville
widely accepted. and Enterprise provide good Tel 954 51 47 35.
bargains, but be wary of anyone Hertz
asking for a large credit card
Driving in Town deposit. Most cars are manual; ∑ hertz.es
Córdoba
Driving in the towns and cities automatics cost more. The Tel 957 40 20 61.
of Andalucía can be difficult. minimum age for renting a Granada
The centres of Seville and car is usually 21. Some firms Tel 958 20 44 54.
Málaga
Córdoba have streets that are charge a supplement for under Tel 952 35 50 40.
narrow, labyrinthine and hard to 21s, provided they hold a Seville
negotiate in a car. Coupled with licence that has been valid for Tel 954 51 47 20.
the often inconsiderate driving at least a year.

272  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Getting Around
Towns and Cities

Many of Andalucía’s cities, towns and villages have small,
historic centres, characterized by narrow streets and tiny
squares. Walking is an excellent and practical way of getting
around the sights, especially as entry by car is restricted to Typical circulares bus, operating
around Seville
residents in parts of many towns. For the same reason, city
buses are generally not much good for travelling between pedestrianized. In Seville, the
monuments, but they are useful to get to shopping areas or useful lines for visitors are the
from your hotel into the centre of town. Buses are very cheap, circulares, numbered C1 to C6,
clean and safe, and generally only crowded at rush hours. which run around the city centre.
In Granada, buses are less useful
except for Nos. 31, 32 and 34,
which run from the centre of
the city to Albaicín, Alhambra
and Sacromonte.
In Córdoba the Nos. 3 and 16
take passengers from the historic
area to the more commercial
centre of the city. Málaga’s L3
services the town hall area and
train station, while in Almería the
No. 1 bus operates around the
Old Town.
Guided tour visiting the Patio de las Doncellas at Seville’s Real Alcázar
Metro
Walking people and cost from €35–45 for Seville’s Metro system was
In many Andalucían towns, 40 minutes. For tours on foot, designed to aid transport
major sights are often only a consult local tourist offices about between the outer areas of
short walk from where you are multilingual walking and cultural Seville and the city centre. Line 1
likely to be staying – at most just tours with El Legado Andalusi. is useful for getting from the
a short bus or taxi ride away. In Seville, Bici 4 City can rent historical centre (Puerta Jerez)
One of the joys of Andalucía’s you a bike that comes complete to shopping centers (Nervión
cities is to lose yourself in their with an MP3 guided tour. A more or Ciudad Expo’s MetroMar). The
narrow streets and to stumble relaxing option is a cruise up the system will eventually consist
upon the sights as you go. Guadalquivir River on a riverboat, of four Metro lines, which will
Drivers in Spain with pretty views of provide easy access to bus and
tend not to respect the city. Open-topped train stations and include a line
pedestrians, even double-decker City to the airport (Line 4).
where pedestrians Sightseeing buses Place your card (see Tickets
have the right of offer hop-on-hop-off section) over the reader to pass
way. Crossings with tours with audio through barriers, and press the
pedestrian signals guides, available in green button by the train door
often have only a Red signal for wait; green Seville, Granada, to open it. On-board overhead
flashing amber light for walk with care Cádiz and Málaga. monitors announce the stops.
showing to oncoming Feel the City Tours
drivers, even when the signal offer free walking tours of
pedestrians see shows a green Seville and Granada. Tips are Metro-Centro
man; therefore it is advisable to appreciated. They also run paid The Metro-Centro tram opened
be very cautious. guided tours that include entry in 2008 in Seville city centre. It
to key sights. Tours in Granada provides climate-controlled, rapid
need to be booked in advance transport between San Bernardo
Guided Tours online on the Feel the City station and Plaza Nueva in an
There is no better way to soak Tours website. otherwise pedestrian-only zone.
up the ambience of Andalucía’s Other lines are planned over the
fine cities than from the seat of City Buses next few years, extending the
an old-fashioned, horse-drawn network to Puerta Osario and
carriage. Drivers wait in line with City buses are most useful for Santa Justa train station.
their carriages near major monu- getting to outlying sights as the Pay at the machine at tram
ments. They take up to four historical centres are mostly stops (or pass your card over

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  273


the reader on board); press the DIRECTORY
green button to open the door.
Stops are announced on overhead Guided Tours
monitors. Metro-Centro trams City Sightseeing
pass every 3–5 minutes and ∑ city-sightseeing.com
stop briefly at all stops. Feel the City Tours
Tel 637 38 65 63 (Seville).
Tickets ∑ feelthecitytours.com
El Legado Andalusi
A billete sencillo or univiaje (single Standard, white Seville taxi, with its logo ∑ legadoandalusi.es
ticket) can be purchased on and official number
buses, but be sure to carry small City Buses
change. In Seville, the tarjeta finding one, day or night. ALMERÍA
multiviaje (multi-trip pass) and Taxis are always white and have
tarjeta turística (1–3 day pass) a logo on the doors, which Surbus
are valid on all TUSSAM means displays their official number. Calle Freniche s/n. Tel 950 62 47
35. ∑ surbus.com
of transport (city bus, airport bus Drivers rarely speak any English,
and Metro-Centro). so learn enough Spanish to CÓRDOBA
Cards can be purchased and explain where you are going. Aucorsa
topped up at newsstands or The meter marks up the basic Plaza de Colón s/n. Tel 957 47 64
Tussam information kiosks, and fare; however, supplements are 50. ∑ aucorsa.es
are also rechargeable at Metro added for tarifa nocturna (night- GRANADA
and Metro-Centro stops. Metro time driving), maletas (luggage) Transportes Rober
cards can be purchased in the or días festivos (public holidays). Acera del Darro 30. Tel 958 22 00
entrance of stations and are for If you are in doubt of the correct 45. ∑ transportesrober.com
use exclusively on the Metro. price, ask for the tarifas (tariff list). MÁLAGA
EMT
Cycling Camino de San Rafael 97. Tel 902
52 72 00. ∑ emtmalaga.es
There are cycle lanes in most
cities. Seville has pedestrianized SEVILLE
a main throughfare in the centre, Autobuses Urbanos Tussam
creating a wide promenade, Avenida de Andalucia II.
which allows for bikes. Helmets Map 4 D3. Tel 902 45 99 54.
∑ tussam.es
are recommended.
SEVICI is a self-service bike Metro
rental programme in Seville, with
2,500 bikes available 24 hours a Metro
∑ metro-sevilla.es
day. Bikes can be hired free for
30 minutes and are charged per Metro-Centro
∑ tussam.es
hour after that. A €150 credit
Tarjeta multiviaje and tarjeta turística card deposit is paid and Taxis
electronic passes refunded on return of the bike.
Motorists tend to treat cyclists Almería
as a nuisance and city traffic Tele-Taxis Tel 950 25 11 11.
Taxis Córdoba
can be dangerous for cyclists.
Spanish towns and cities are Andalucian Cycling Experience Radio Taxi Tel 957 76 44 44.
generously supplied with taxis, offer trails into the country on Granada
so there is not usually a problem mountain bikes. Tele Radio Taxi Tel 958 28 06 54.
Málaga
UniTaxi Tel 952 33 33 33.
Seville
Tele-Taxis Tel 954 62 22 22.
Cycling
Andalucian Cycling
Experience
∑ andaluciancycling
experience.com
Bici 4 City
∑ bici4city.com
SEVICI
∑ sevici.es
Bicycles lined up ready for hire at SEVICI docking stations, Seville

274  GENER AL INDEX

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to Almería (cont.) Autumn in Andalucía 40
main entries restaurants 236 AVE (Tren de Alta Velocidad
Almería (province) see Granada Española) 266, 267
A and Almería Averroes of Córdoba 51
Abd al Rahman I 50 Almohads The Axarquia 183
Alcazaba (Málaga) 183 architecture 26 Ayamonte 130
Mezquita (Córdoba) 148 Moorish Conquest 50, 51 Ayuntamiento (Arcos de la
Abd al Rahman II 50, 148 Reconquest 52 Frontera) 179
Abd al Rahman III 50–51 Almonte Ayuntamiento (Carmona) 136–7
Alcazaba (Almería) 206 restaurants 230 Ayuntamiento (Seville) 29, 78–9,
Córdoba 146 Almoravids 50, 51 110
Medina Azahara 142–3 Almuñécar 193 Azulejos 26, 80
Abul Hasan, Sultan 202 festivals 41
Accommodation see Hotels Álora 180 B
Acero, Vicente de 204 Las Alpujarras 15, 54, 189, 200– Babaloo Beach 37
Acinipo 177 201 Baelo Claudia 173
Addresses, Spanish 263 Las Alpujarras tour 204–5 Baena 151
Admission charges 254–5 Amadeo, King 57 festivals 38
Aguilar 151 American Legation (Tangier) 187 Baetica 48
Air sports 249, 251 Al Andalus 50–51 Baeza 15, 156–7
Air travel 264–5 Andújar 155 hotels 217
Airlines 264, 265 festivals 38 restaurants 231
Airports 264–5 Animals see Wildlife Street-by-street map 156–7
Alameda de Hércules (Seville) 13, Añora 143 Bailén
92 Antequera 14, 181 Battle of (1808) 57
Alba, Dukes of 90, 209 Antiques shops 241 restaurants 231
Albaicín (Granada) Apéritifs 227 Baixeres, Dionisio
Street-by-Street map 196–7 Apes, Gibraltar 175 The Court of Abd al Rahman III
Alcalá de Guadaíra Aposeosis de Santo Tomás de 50–51
hotels 217 Aquino (Zurbarán) 71 El Balcón de Europa (Nerja) 182
Alcalá la Real 154 Aquariums: Banderilleros 31
Alfonso VIII, King 155 Aquarium (Roquetas de Mar) Banking 260–61
Alfonso X the Wise, King 208 Baños del Alcázar Califales
Arcos de la Frontera 177 Selwo Marina (Benalmádena) (Córdoba) 144, 146
Cantigas 52 246, 247 Baños Arabes (Jaén) 152
Iglesia de Santa Ana (Seville) Aracena 130 Baños de la Encina 125, 155
107 hotels 217 El Bañuelo (Granada) 195, 197
Iglesia de Santa María de la Arches, Moorish 27 Baras, Sara 33
Oliva (Lebrija) 136 Archez 185 Barbate 172–3
Medina Sidonia 172 Archidona 181 Baroque architecture 29
Reconquest 52 Architecture Los Barrios
sign of Seville 79 azulejos 26, 80 restaurants 234
Alfonso XI, King 146 early 20th century 59 Bartolomé de Jaén, Maestro
Alfonso XII, King 57 Moorish 26–7 Baeza Cathedral screen 157
Alfonso XIII, King 58 Moorish Revival 58 Capilla Real (Granada) 194
Hotel Alfonso XIII (Seville) 100 Patios of Córdoba 150 Capilla del Salvador (Úbeda)
Algeciras Post-Moorish 28–9 158
festivals 39 Sevillian bell towers 94–5 Capilla de San Andrés (Jaén)
restaurants 232 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, 76, 153
Alhama de Granada 192 84–5 Basílica de la Macarena (Seville)
Alhambra (Granada) 125, 190, Arcos de la Frontera 13, 124, 176, 13, 93
198–9 177 Baza 204–5
architecture 27 hotels 218 festivals 40
Generalife 202 restaurants 232 Beaches 36–7
Patio de los Leones 199 El Arenal (Seville) 67–73 Beato de Liébana 50
Puerta de la Justicia 44 area map 67 Bécquer, Gustavo Adolfo 102
Aljaraque hotels 216 Bed and breakfast 214–15
restaurants 230 restaurants 228 Beer 226
Almería 15, 189, 206–7 Street-by-street map 68–9 Belalcázar 143
festivals 39, 43 Arévalo, Luis de 195 Belalcázar, Sebastián de 143
hotels 219 Arts and crafts shops 241 Bell towers, Seville 94–5
map 207 ATMs 260 Bélmez 142

GENER AL INDEX  275




Benahavis Cádiz (cont.) Carthage 46, 47, 48
restaurants 232 festivals 40, 41, 43 Carthusians
Benalmádena 184 history 45, 47, 54, 58 Monasterio de Santa María de
Benaojan hotels 218 las Cuevas (Seville) 109
restaurants 232 restaurants 232–3 La Cartuja (Seville) 105, 108
Berbers 51, 174 Cádiz and Málaga 163–87 hotels 216
Bernadet, Fernando 107 Exploring Cádiz and Málaga Cartuja ’93 (Seville) 108
Bicycles 273 164–5 Casa de la Condesa Lebrija
Bienal de Arte Flamenco (Seville) hotels 218–19 (Seville) see Palacio de Lebrija
40, 244, 247 restaurants 232–6 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 12, 80, 81
Birds see Wildlife Caesar, Julius 48 Casa de los Tiros (Granada) 194–5
Bizet, Georges 100 La Calahorra 189, 203 Casares
Blood Wedding (Lorca) 209 Calle Betis (Seville) 12, 111 restaurants 233
Blues Festival (Cazorla) 39 Calle de la Feria (Seville) 90 Casas Viejas 59
Boabdil, Sultan Calle Mateos Gago (Seville) 77 Cash machines 260
Alhambra (Granada) 199 Calle Pelay y Correa (Seville) 107, Castellar de la Frontera 173
fall of Granada 52–3 111 hotels 218
imprisonment in Lucena 151 Calle Rodrigo de Triana (Seville) Castillo de Colomares
sword 194 106, 111 (Benalmádena) 184
Bodegas Calle Sierpes (Seville) 12, 78, 110 Castles and fortresses
Jerez de la Frontera 166, 167 Calléjon del Agua (Seville) 77 Alcazaba (Almería) 51, 206
Montilla 151 Camarón de La Isla 33 Alcázar (Jerez de la Frontera)
El Puerto de Santa María 167 Camera Oscura (Seville) 93 166
Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166 Camp sites 214, 215 Alcázar de Rey Pedro (Carmona)
Bolonia 37 La Campana (Seville) 137
Bolshevik Triennium 59 hotels 216 Baños de la Encina 155
Bonaparte, Joseph 56, 57 Campiña 139 Belalcázar 143
Bormujos Campo, Juan del 194 Bélmez 142
restaurants 230 Canales, Antonio 33 La Calahorra 189, 203
Bourbon kings 56–7 Cano, Alonso 155, 194 Castillo de Almodóvar del Río
Breakdown services 271 El Cano, monument to 98 142
Breakfast 220 Los Caños de Meca 37, 173 Castillo Arabe (Álora) 180
Brenan, Gerald 203, 205 hotels 218 Castillo Arabe (Antequera) 181
Bronze figures, Iberian 46–7 Capileira 15, 203 Castillo Arabe (Salobreña) 193
Bubión 15, 203 Capilla see Churches Castillo de Gibralfaro (Málaga)
restaurants 236 Caravanning 214, 215 183
Buddhist stupa (Benalmádena) 184 Carboneras Castillo de Guzman el Bueno
Bullfighting 21, 30–31, 246, 247 restaurants 236 (Tarifa) 173
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza Carlist Wars 56, 57 Castillo de Niebla (El Condado)
(Seville) 30, 68, 72, 246 Carlos I, King see Carlos V, 133
Ronda 179 Emperor Castillo San Marcos (El Puerto
Bulls, safety 258 Carlos II, King 55 de Santa María) 167
Bureau de change 260 Carlos III, King 56, 84 Castillo de San Miguel
Buses 272, 273 Carlos IV, King 56 (Almuñécar) 193
El Buzo (Seville) 69 Carlos V, Emperor (King Carlos I) Castillo de Santa Catalina (Jaén)
Byron, Lord 168 Palacio Carlos V (Granada) 29, 152
195, 199 Castillo de Vélez Blanco 205
C Puerto de Jaén y Arco de Villalar Castillo de la Yedra (Cazorla) 160
Cabello, Luis 195 (Baeza) 157 Cástulo (Jaén) 155
Cable cars Real Alcázar (Seville) 86 Fortaleza de la Mota (Alcalá la
Teleférico Benalmádena 246, Seville’s Golden Age 54 Real) 154
247 Carmen 100 La Iruela (Cazorla) 160
Cabo de Trafalgar 172, 173 Royal Tobacco Factory (Seville) Kasbah (Tangier) 186
Cabopino 37 56, 57 Melilla La Vieja 175
Cabra 140, 151 Carmona 136–7 San Sebastián fort (Cádiz) 171
festivals 39 hotels 217 Segura de la Sierra 160
Cadiar 205 restaurants 230 see also Palaces
festivals 40 Los Carnavales 41, 43, 168 Cathedrals
Cádiz 13, 14, 168–71 La Carolina 155 Almería 206
A 90-Minute Walk Around Cars Baeza 157
Historic Cádiz 170–71 driving in Andalucía 270–71 Cádiz 124, 168, 171
1812 Constitution 56–7, 170 hiring 265, 271 Córdoba 138, 148–9

276  GENER AL INDEX

Cathedrals (cont.) Churches (cont.) Columbus, Christopher (cont.)
Granada 194 Iglesia de la Asunción (Palma La Cartuja (Seville) 105
Guadix 29, 204 del Río) 142 Castillo de Colomares
Jaén 125, 152 Iglesia de la Asunción (Priego (Benalmádena) 184
Jerez de la Frontera 166 de Córdoba) 154 Fiestas Colombinas 39
Málaga 182 Iglesia de la Magdalena (Seville) Huelva 131
Seville 12, 76, 82–3 72, 95, 111 Monasterio de la Rábida 131
Catholic Church 23, 255 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Monasterio de Santa María de
Catholic Monarchs see Fernando O (Sanlúcar de Barrameda) 28, las Cuevas (Seville) 109
II of Aragón; Isabel of Castilla 166 monument to (Seville) 85
Caves Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Palos de la Frontera 127, 132
cave paintings 46 O (Seville) 109 sails to America 52, 53
Cueva de los Leteros 205 Iglesia de San Hermenegildo Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166
Cueva de los Murciélagos 46 (Seville) 94 ships 53
Cuevas de Nerja 182 Iglesia de San Ildefonso (Seville) statue of (Punta del Sebo) 131
Cuevas de la Pileta 47, 179 81, 95 tomb of 83
Gruta de la Maravillas 130 Iglesia de San Marcos (Seville) Comares 183
St Michael’s Cave (Gibraltar) 175 28, 91, 94 Communications 262–3
Cayón, Gaspar 204 Iglesia de San Pablo (Úbeda) Cómpeta 183
Cazalla de la Sierra 136 158–9 Concurso Nacional de Flamenco
hotels 217 Iglesia de San Pedro (Seville) 90, (Córdoba) 38
Cazorla 141, 160 94, 95 El Condado 133
hotels 217 Iglesia de Santa Ana (Granada) Constantina 136
restaurants 231 28, 196 Constitution (1812) 56–7, 170
Cecilio, San 197 Iglesia de Santa Ana (Seville) Consulates 254, 257
Celts 46, 47 107, 109, 111 Convents see Monasteries and
Cerámica Santa Ana (Seville) 106, Iglesia de Santa Catalina convents
239, 241 (Seville) 91, 95 Conversion chart 257
Ceramics Iglesia de Santa María la Córdoba 14–15, 144–50
azulejos 80 Coronada (Medina Sidonia) 172 entertainment 244–7
Triana (Seville) 106 Iglesia de Santa María de la festivals 38, 39, 42–3
What to Buy in Andalucía 242 Oliva (Labrija) 136 hotels 217–18
Certamen Internacional de Iglesia del Salvador (Seville) 79 map 147
Guitarra Classica Andrés Iglesia San Ildefonso (Jaén) 153 Mezquita 14, 124, 138, 145,
Segovia (Almuñécar) 41 Iglesia San Jorge (Palos de la 148–9
Cervantes, Miguel de Frontera) 132 Moorish conquest 50–51
Archivo de Indias (Seville) 84 Iglesia San Juan Bautista patios 150
Corral de los Olmos 84 (Hinojosa del Duque) 142 restaurants 231–2
Don Quixote 55 Oratorio de San Felipe Neri shops 239, 241
imprisonment 78 (Cádiz) 169, 171 Street-by-Street map 144–5
Ceuta 187 Santa María de los Reales transport 267–9, 272, 273
Charco de la Pava Flea Market Alcázares (Úbeda) 158 Córdoba and Jaén 139–61
(Seville) 108, 240 Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza Exploring Córdoba and Jaén
Children 155 140–41
clothes shops 241 Templo San Juan (Almería) 206 hotels 217–18
entertainment for 246, 247 visiting 255 restaurants 231–2
in restaurants 221 Churrigueresque architecture 29 Córdoban Caliphate 26
Chipiona 166 Cinemas see Film El Cordobés 142
Chocolate, drinking 227 Civil War 45, 58–9, 155 Cornejo, Pedro Duque 109, 149
Christians, Reconquest 52–3 Classical music 245, 247 Coronel, Doña María 95
Churches Claudius, Emperor 173 Corpus Christi 39, 43
Basílica de la Macarena (Seville) Climate 39–41 Corral del Carbón (Granada) 194
13, 93 Clothes Corrida Goyesca (Ronda) 40, 179
Capilla de los Marineros (Seville) in churches 255 Cortés, Hernán 101
107 in restaurants 220 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 84
Capilla Real (Granada) 15, shops 241 conquers Mexico 54
194 Coach travel 269 Cortés, Captain Santiago 155
Capilla del Salvador (Úbeda) Cobos, Francisco de los 158 Cortes de la Frontera
158 Coffee 227 hotels 218
Capilla de San Andrés (Jaén) Coín Costa de Almería 37
152–3 restaurants 233 Costa de la Luz 36, 163, 173
Capillita del Carmen (Seville) Coja, Paquita la 209 Costa del Sol 39, 185
107 Columbus, Christopher 101, 131, beaches 36, 37, 163
Ermita de Nuestra Señora del 192 golf 37, 249, 251
Rocío 133 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 84 history 60, 61

GENER AL INDEX  277

Costa del Sol (cont.) Entertainment (cont.) Festival Internacional de Jazz
landscape 24 rock, pop and jazz 245, 247 (Granada) 40
Costa Natura 37 theatre 244, 247 Festival Internacional de Música y
Costa Tropical 36, 193 Equestrian sports 248–9, Danza (Granada) 39, 245
Coto Doñana see National parks 251 Festival Internacional de Teatro y
Courier services 262, 263 Ermita de Nuestra Señora del Danza (Seville) 38
Credit cards 260 Rocío 133 Festival de Música Antigua
in hotels 214 Estepa 137 (Seville) 41
lost 258 Estepona 185 Festival de los Patios (Córdoba)
in restaurants 221 restaurants 233 38, 42–3, 150
in shops 238 Etiquette 255 Festivals 38–43
Crime 258 Expo ’92 45, 60, 61, 105, 108, 109 Fiesta de San Marcos (Ohanes) 38
Cristo de la Expiración (Orgiva) 38 Fiesta de la Vendemia (La Palma
Cuban War 58 F del Condado) 40
Cueva see Caves Fadrique, Infante Don 92 Fiesta de los Verdiales (Málaga)
Culture 22–3 Falange 58, 59 41
Currency 61, 261 Falconete, Pedro Sánchez 73 Fiesta del Vino (Cadiar) 40
Cycling 248, 251, 273 The Fall of Granada (Vigarney) Fiesta de la Virgen del Carmen 39
52–3 Fiestas 30, 38–43
D Falla, Manuel de 58, 171 Fiestas Colombinas (Huelva) 39
Dalí, Salvador 187 tomb of 168 Fiestas de la Exaltación del Río
Dance see Flamenco Fashion shops 241 Guadalquivir (Sanlúcar de
Department stores 238, 241 Felipe II, King 54, 85 Barrameda) 39
Desfiladero de Despeñaperros Felipe III, King 55 Figueroa, Antonio Matías de 100
139, 155 Felipe IV, King 55 Figueroa, Leonardo de
Día de la Cruz (Córdoba/Granada) Felipe V, King 56 Hospital de los Venerables
38, 42 Felipe el Hermoso 194 (Seville) 85
Día de Reyes 41 Feria de Abril (Seville) 38, 42, 60 Iglesia de la Magdalena (Seville)
Día de la Toma (Granada) 41 Feria de Almería 39, 43 72
Dialling codes 262 Feria del Caballo (Jerez de la Iglesia del Salvador (Seville)
Díaz, Daniel Vásquez 131 Frontera) 38 79
Disabled travellers 256, 257 Feria de Málaga 39, 43 Iglesia de Santa Catalina
in hotels 214, 215 Feria de Mayo (Córdoba) 38 (Seville) 95
in restaurants 221 Feria de Pedro Romero (Ronda) Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville)
Domes, Moorish 26 40 71
Don Carlos (beach) 37 Fernández, Alejo 109 Film 245, 247
Don Juan 73 Fernando II of Aragón Festival de Cine Iberoamericano
Doñana, Parque Nacional de 25, Alcazaba (Almería) 206 (Huelva) 40
127, 134–5 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos spaghetti westerns 208
F F
Drake, Sir Francis 54, 168 (Córdoba) 146 Finis Gloriae Mundi (Valdés Leal) inis Gloriae Mundi (Valdés Leal) inis Gloriae Mundi
Drinks see Food and drink and Christopher Columbus 131 73
Driving licences 270 death 54 Fino 226
Las Dunas 37 festivals 41 First aid 258, 259
Granada Cathedral 194 First Republic 57
E marriage 53 Fishing 248, 251
Écija 137 Real Chancillería (Granada) 196 Flamenco 21, 32–3, 244, 247
Egas, Enrique de 143, 194 Reconquest 52, 192 Bienal de Arte Flamenco 40,
Eisenhower, Dwight D. 60 Santa Fé 192 244
El Ejido 25 tomb of 15, 194 Jerez Annual Flamenco Festival
Electrical adaptors 257 Fernando III, King 41
Embassies 257 Castillo de Santa Catalina (Jaén) Museo del Baile Flamenco
Emergency numbers 258, 259 152 (Seville) 79
Entertainment 244–7 conquers Baeza 156 shops 241
booking tickets 244, 247 Córdoba 146 Flores, Rosario 245
bullfighting 246, 247 Reconquest 52 FOCUS (Fundación Fondo de
for children 246, 247 statue of (Seville) 78 Cultura de Sevilla) 85
cinema 245, 247 Fernando VI, King 56 Folk music 245
flamenco 244, 247 Fernando VII, King 56, 57 Food and drink
folk music 245 Ferries, to North Africa 265 Andalucían cuisine 220
football 246, 247 Festival de Cine Iberoamericano Flavours of Andalucía 222–3
nightlife 245, 247 (Huelva) 40 markets 240
opera and classical music 245, Festival de la Guitarra (Córdoba) sherry 34–5
247 39 shops 241
outdoor activities 248–51 Festival Iberoamericano de Teatro tapas 222, 224–5
practical information 244, 247 (Cádiz) 40 What to Buy in Andalucía 243

278  GENER AL INDEX

Food and drink (cont.) Granada (cont.) Hotels 212–19
What to Drink in Andalucía shopping 240, 241 booking and checking in 213
226–7 transport 268, 269, 272, 273 Cádiz and Málaga 218–19
see also Restaurants Granada and Almería 189–209 Córdoba and Jaén 217–18
Football 246, 247 Exploring Granada and Almería disabled travellers 214, 215
Ford, Richard 21, 100, 227 190–91 grading and facilities 212–13
Forestier, Jean-Claude 102 hotels 219 Granada and Almería 219
Fortresses see Castles and restaurants 236–7 Huelva and Sevilla 217
fortresses Granados, José 79 paradors 213, 214
Franco, General Francisco Grand Socco (Tangier) 187 paying in 214
and Cádiz 168 Grapes, sherry 35 prices 213
Civil War 58, 59 Grazalema 176 Seville 216
death 45, 60, 61 festivals 39 where to look 212
World War II 60 hotels 218 Hoyos, Cristina 40
Frigiliana 183 El Greco 155 Huelva 131
Fuengirola 184 Greeks, ancient 46, 47 festivals 39, 40, 42
restaurants 233 Green travel 264 restaurants 230
Fuente Agria 204 Gruta de la Maravillas 130 Huelva and Sevilla 127–37
Fuente Obejuna 142 Guadalquivir, River 68, 110 Exploring Huelva and Sevilla
Fuente de Piedra 180–81 bridges 60–61 128–9
Guadix 189, 204 hotels 217
G Cathedral 29 restaurants 230–31
Galleries see Museums and Guided tours 272 Huercal Almería
galleries Guitars, Spanish 32, 239, 243 restaurants 237
García, Esteban 79 Guzmán, Fernando Gómez de Humeya, Aben 205
Garcilaso de la Vega 151 142 Hungry Years 60
Gardens see Parks and gardens Guzmán el Bueno 110, 173
Garganta del Chorro 163, 180 Gypsies 32, 197, 258 I
Gaucín 13, 14, 176 Ibero-American Exposition (1929)
restaurants 233 H 59, 97, 98, 100, 101, 102
Gay and lesbian travellers 256, Habsburg dynasty 45 Iglesia see Churches
257 Hadrian, Emperor 48, 101 Immigration 254
Generalife (Granada) 202 birthplace 136 Los Infiernos 192
Gerena Al Hakim II 50, 146, 148, 155 La Inmaculada (Valdés Leal) 70
restaurants 230 Hannibal 152 La Inmaculada Concepción
Gibraltar 174–5 Health 258–9 (Seville) 41
airport 265 Henry II of Trastámara 52, 53 Inquisition 55
Great Siege of (1779–83) 56 Herbs and spices 243 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
history 46, 56 Hercules 168, 169 (Córdoba) 146
hotels 218 Hermenegildo, St 94 autos-da-fé 55, 78
restaurants 233 Hernández, Rafel Rodríguez 93 expulsion of Moors 54
World War II 60 La Herradura 37 headquarters 109
La Giralda (Seville) 12, 54, 76, 82 Herrera, Francisco de 95 Ronda 178
Golden Age, Seville 54–5 Herrera, Juan de 29, 84 Insurance
Golf 37, 249, 251 Hinojosa del Duque 142 car 270
González, Anibal 102, 107 Hiring cars 265, 271 health 259
González, Felipe 60, 61 History 45–61 travel 258, 259
González, Gutiérrez 153 Holidays, public 41 Internet 262, 263
Gothic architecture 28 Holy Roman Empire 54 Interpreters 259
Goya y Lucientes, Francisco José Homo sapiens 45, 46 Inurria, Mateo 146
de Horse-drawn carriages 76, 102, Irving, Washington 77, 197
Corrida Goyesca (Ronda) 40 272 Alhambra apartments
El Gran Capitán 195 Hospital de la Caridad (Seville) 69, (Granada) 199
Granada 15, 194–7 73 Tales of the Alhambra 57
airport 265 Hospital de la Reina (Alhama de Isabel II, Queen 56, 57
Albaicín Street-by-Street map Granada) 192 Isabel of Castilla
196–7 Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda) Alcazaba (Almería) 206
Alhambra 190, 198–9 159 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
entertainment 244–7 Hospital de los Venerables (Córdoba) 146
festivals 38–41, 43 (Seville) 12, 77, 85 and Christopher Columbus 131
Generalife 202 Hospitals 259 death 54
hotels 219 Hotel Alfonso XIII (Seville) 99, 100 festivals 41
map 195 Hotel Balneario (Alhama de Granada Cathedral 194
Reconquest 52–3 Granada) 192 Iglesia de la Encarnación
restaurants 236–7 Hotel Continental (Tangier) 186 (Alhama de Granada) 192

GENER AL INDEX  279

Isabel of Castilla (cont.) Lawyers 259 Maps (cont.)
marriage 53 Leandro, San 49 Almería 207
Real Alcázar (Seville) 86 Lebrija 136 Las Alpujarras tour 204–5
Real Chancillería (Granada) Lee, Laurie 163, 185, 193 Andalucía at a glance 124–5
196 Legal assistance 259 Baeza 156–7
Reconquest 52 Leone, Sergio 208 beaches 36–7
Santa Fé 192 Libraries Cádiz and Málaga 164–5
tomb of 15, 194 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, Civil War 58
Isabelline architecture 28 84–5 Córdoba and Jaén 140–41
Isicio, San 160 La Linea de la Concepción 175 Discovering Seville 10–11
Isidoro, San 49 restaurants 234 early Andalucía 46
Isla Cristina 130 Loja 192 Granada 195
festivals 41 hotels 219 Granada: Albaicín 196–7
hotels 217 restaurants 237 Granada and Almería 190–91
restaurants 230 Lopéz, Julian (El Juli) 31 Greater Seville 18
Isla Mágica (Seville) 108, 246 Lorca, Federico García 30 Huelva and Sevilla 128–9
La Isleta 209 Blood Wedding 209 Jaén 153
Itálica 124, 127, 136 death 59 Jerez de la Frontera 167
Roman remains 48–9 Yerma 59 Landscape of Andalucía 24–5
Lost property 258 Moorish domain (800) 50
J Lucena 151 Moorish domain (1350) 52
Jabugo 130 Lucía, Paco de 32 Parque Nacional de Doñana
restaurants 231 Lunes de Toro (Grazalema) 39 134–5
Jaén 15, 125, 139, 152–3 Lynxes 135 present-day Andalucía 60
festivals 42–3 Pueblos Blancos tour 176–7
hotels 218 M Rail network 267
map 153 La Macarena (Seville) 13, 89–95 Roman Spain 48
parador 152 area map 89 Ronda 178–9
restaurants 232 hotels 216 Seville 18–19
Jaén (province) see Córdoba restaurants 229 Seville: Across the River 105
and Jaén Street-by-Street map 90–91 Seville: El Arenal 67, 68–9
Jamete, Esteban 158 Machado, Antonio 156 Seville: Around the Universidad
Jamón ibérico (ham) 130 Maeda, Asensio de 93 98–9
Jardines de Murillo (Seville) 13, 85 Maestranza Seville: at a Glance 64–5
Jazz 245, 247 hotels 216 Seville: La Macarena 89, 90–91
Jerez de la Frontera 14, 166 Maestranza Bullring (Seville) see Seville: Parque María Luisa 97
airport 265 Plaza de Torros de la Seville: Santa Cruz 75
bodegas 167 Maestranza Seville: Santa Cruz Street-by-
equestrian sports 249 Magazines 263 Street 76–7
festivals 38, 41 listings 244 Seville: Street Finder 112–21
restaurants 233 Magellan, Ferdinand 54, 98 Seville: Triana 106–7
Jews 51 Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166 sherry regions 34
Córdoba 144 Maimónides 51 Sierra Morena tour 142–3
Jimena de la Frontera 13, 14, 173, statue of (Córdoba) 146 Spain 16–17
178 Málaga 13, 14, 182–3 Spain in Europe (1812) 56
Jiménez, Juan Ramón airport 265 Spanish empire (1700) 54
Museo de Zenobia y Juan Alcazaba 182–3 Tangier 186
Ramón Jiménez (Moguer) 132 Civil War 58 Úbeda 159
Juan Carlos I, King 60, 61 festivals 38, 39, 41, 43 Western Europe 17
Juan de la Cruz, San 159 hotels 218 Marbella 13, 14, 184–5
Juana la Loca 194 restaurants 234 beaches 36
Junta de Andalucía 254 transport 268, 269 hotels 218
Justa, Santa 106 Málaga (province) see Cádiz and restaurants 234–5
Málaga Marbella Golf 37
K Mañara, Miguel de 73 María Cristina, Queen 58
Kasbah (Tangier) 186 Manilva María Luisa, Princess
Ketama 32 restaurants 234 Costurero de la Reina (Seville)
Knights Hospitallers 196 Mano Negra 58 98
Knights Templar 130 Manolete 31 Parque María Luisa (Seville)
Al Mansur 51, 148 102–3
L Maps statue of (Seville) 102
Lafita, José 76, 84 A 90-Minute Walk Around Markets 240
Landscape 24–5 Historic Cádiz 170–71 Charco de la Pava Flea Market
Lanjarón 15, 191, 193 A 90-Minute Walk in Seville (Seville) 108, 240
festivals 39 110–11 Martínez, Domingo 71

280  GENER AL INDEX

Martínez, Ginés 157 Montañes, Juan Martínes (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Matadors 30–31 Iglesia del Salvador (Seville) 79 Centro de Interpretación
Matalascañas 133 St John the Baptist 94 St John the Baptist 94 St John the Baptist Cuevas de Guadix (Guadix) 204
restaurants 231 statue of (Seville) 79 Centro de Recepción e
Mazagón 132 Montefrío 192 Interpretación de la Naturaleza
hotels 217 Montes de Málaga 183 (Parque Natural de Cazorla,
Mecina Bombaron Montilla 151 Segura y las Villas) 160
hotels 219 Montoro 143 Centro del Vino Condado de
Medical treatment 259 Montpensier, Dukes of 100 Huelva (El Condado) 133
Medina Azahara 27, 50, 51, Moors 21–2, 45, 50–51 Convento de Santa Paula
142–3 Las Alpujarras uprisings 54 (Seville) 94
Medina Sidonia 172 architecture 26–7 Dar El Makhzen (Tangier) 186
Medina Sidonia, Duchess of 60 azulejos 26, 80 Gibraltar Museum (Gibraltar) 175
Medina Sidonia, Dukes of 134, 172 expulsion from Spain 54, 55 Museo de Alfarería (Guadix) 204
Medinaceli, Dukes of 81 Granada 194 Museo de Almería 207
Melilla 187 Reconquest 52–3 Museo Arqueológico (Baza) 205
Mena, Pedro de 194 Morocco 186–7 Museo Arqueológico (Córdoba)
Mendoza, Rodrigo de 203 travel to 265 147
Menus 220–21 Moros y Cristianos (Válor) 40 Museo Arqueológico (Granada)
Merimée, Prosper 57, 100 Mosaics 195, 197
Mesa, Juan de 94 azulejos 80 Museo Arqueológico (Málaga)
Metropol Parasol 60, 95 Roman 48 183
Mezquita (Córdoba) 14, 124, 138, Mosques Museo Arqueológico (Seville)
145, 148–9 Grand Mosque (Tangier) 186 13, 101, 103
Mijas Mezquita (Córdoba) 14, 138, Museo Arqueológico (Úbeda)
hotels 218 145, 148–9 159
restaurants 235 Motorways 270–71 Museo Arqueológico Cueva de
Millán, Gómez 93 Motril Siete Palacíos (Almuñécar) 193
Los Millares 46, 47, 207 hotels 219 Museo Automovilístico y de la
Minas de Riotinto 130 restaurants 237 Moda (Málaga)182, 183
Mirador de San Nicolás (Granada) Moulay Ismail, Sultan 186 Museo de Artes y Costumbres
195 Mountain refuges 214, 215 Populares (Seville) 13, 101, 103
Miró, Joan 185 Movies see Film Museo del Baile Flamenco
Mobile phones 262, 263 Mudéjar architecture 26, 28, 52 (Seville) 79
Moguer 132 azulejos 80 Museo de Bellas Artes
Mojácar 15, 209 Muhammad V, Caliph 198, 199 (Córdoba) 146
hotels 219 Mulhacén 25, 203 Museo de Bellas Artes
Molina, Tirso de 73 Murallas (Seville) 93 (Granada) 195
Monachil Murallas de San Carlos (Cádiz) 170 Museo de Bellas Artes (Seville)
hotels 219 Murillo, Bartolomé Esteban 70, 12, 66, 70–71
Monasteries and convents 110, 146, 168 Museo de Cádiz (Cádiz) 168–9
Convento de la Merced Calzada baptism 72 Museo Carmen Thyssen
(Seville) 70 Hospital de la Caridad (Seville) (Málaga) 13, 14, 182, 183
Convento de Santa Clara 69, 73 Museo del Grabado
(Seville) 92 Jardines de Murillo (Seville) 85 Contemporáneo (Marbella) 185
Convento de Santa Inés (Seville) Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 84 Museo Hispano-Musulman
95 Santa Justa and Santa Rufina (Granada) 195
Convento de Santa Paula 106 Museo Julio Romero de Torres
(Seville) 91, 94 Seville Cathedral 83 (Córdoba) 146
Monasterio de la Cartuja La Virgen de la Servilleta 71 Museo de la Legión (Cueta) 187
(Granada) 29, 195 Young Beggar 55 Young Beggar 55 Young Beggar Museo Minero (Riotinto) 130
Monasterio de la Rábida 131 Museums and galleries Museo de Picasso (Málaga) 13,
Monasterio de San Clemente admission charges 254–5 14, 182, 183
(Seville) 92 Archivo de Indias (Seville) 12, Museo Provincial (Huelva) 131
Monasterio de Santa Clara 84–5 Museo Provincial (Jaén) 153
(Moguer) 132 La Atalaya Theme Centre (Jerez Museo Taurino (Córdoba) 146
Monasterio de Santa María de de la Frontera) 166 Museo de Zenobia y Juan
las Cuevas (Seville) 109 Casa Museo de Martín Alonso Ramón Jiménez (Moguer) 132
Real Monasterio de Santa Clara Pinzón (Palos de la Frontera) 132 opening hours 255
(Jaén) 153 Casa Natal de Picasso (Málaga) Palacio de Nájera (Antequera)
Santa Isabel (Seville) 94 182, 183 181
Money 260–61 Castillo de la Yedra (Cazorla) Music
Montañes, Juan Martínes 160 festivals 38–43
Convento de Santa Clara Centro Andaluz de Arte flamenco 32–3, 244, 247
(Seville) 92 Contemporáneo (Seville) 109 folk 245

GENER AL INDEX  281

Music (cont.) Opening hours 255 Palma del Río (cont.)
opera and classical music 245, banks 260 restaurants 232
247 shops 238 Palomares incident (1966) 60
rock, pop and jazz 245, 247 Opera 245, 247 Palomino, Antonio 195
Order of Calatrava 154 Palos de la Frontera 127, 132
N Ordóñez, Bartolomé 194 restaurants 231
Napoleon I, Emperor Orea, Juan de 206 Pampaneira 15, 203
Alhambra (Granada) 198 Orgiva 203, 204 Paquirri 143
Battle of Bailén 153 festivals 38 Paradors 213, 214
and Cádiz 169 hotels 219 Parking 271
Napoleonic Wars 56 restaurants 237 Parks and gardens
Naranjas y Limones (Torres) 146 Osuna 137 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos
Nasrid dynasty 45, 194 restaurants 231 (Córdoba) 144
Alhambra (Granada) 198–9 Osuna, Dukes of 137 Generalife (Granada) 202
architecture 26 Outdoor activities 248–51 Jardines de Murillo (Seville) 13,
Generalife (Granada) 202 Oviedo, Juan de 85
Reconquest 52 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 81 Moorish gardens 26
National parks Convento de la Merced Calzada Parque Genovés (Cádiz) 170
Parque Nacional de Doñana 25, (Seville) 70 Parque María Luisa (Seville) 12,
127, 134–5 Convento de Santa Clara 13, 97, 102–3
Sierra Nevada 203 (Seville) 92 Parque Ornitológico
Nature reserves (Almuñécar) 193
Bahia de Cádiz Nature Reserve P Real Alcázar (Seville) 86
169 Pacheco, Francisco de 81 Parlamento de Andalucía
Parque Natural de Cabo de Palaces (Seville) 93
Gata 15, 125, 208 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos Parque María Luisa (Seville) 12,
Parque Natural de Cazorla, (Córdoba) 14, 144, 146 97–103
Segura y Las Villas 160, 161 Alhambra (Granada) 27, 125, area map 97
Parque Natural de Los 198–9 restaurants 228–9
Alcornocales 13, 14, 173 Casa de Pilatos (Seville) 12, 80, 81 Street-by-Street: Around the
Parque Natural de Montes de Casa de los Tiros (Granada) 194–5 Universidad 98–9
Málaga 183 Medina Azahara 142–3 Parque Nacional see National parks see National parks see
Parque Natural Sierra de las Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 84 Parque Natural see Nature reserves
Nieves 180 Palacio de las Cadenas (Úbeda) Passports 254, 258
Parque Natural del Torcal 181 158 Patio de las Doncellas (Seville) 80,
Yesos de Sorbas 209 Palacio de las Dueñas (Seville) 94 86
Naturism 250, 251 Palacio Carlos V (Granada) 29, Patios of Córdoba 150
Las Navas de Tolosa, Battle of 195, 199 Pechina
(1227) 52 Palacio de Jabalquinto (Baeza) hotels 219
Neanderthals 46 28, 156 Pedrajas, Francisco Javier 154
Necrópolis Romana (Carmona) Palacio de Lebrija (Seville) 13, 78 Pedro I (the Cruel), King
137 Palacio de la Madraza (Granada) Alcázar del Rey Pedro
Nelson, Admiral Horatio 57, 173 194 (Carmona) 137
Neolithic period 46 Palacio del Marqués de la death 53
Nerja 182 Gomera (Osuna) 29, 137 Real Alcázar (Seville) 86
beach 165 Palacio del Marqués de Reconquest 52
hotels 218 Salvatierra (Ronda) 179 Pedroche 143
restaurants 235 Palacio del Mayorazgo (Arcos Pemán, José Maria 168
New World 54 de la Frontera) 177 Peñarroya-Pueblonuevo 142
Newspapers 263 Palacio Mondragón (Ronda) 178 Peninsular War 56, 57
Niebla 133 Palacio Pedro I (Seville) 53 People of Andalucía 22–3
Nightlife 245, 247 Palacio de Pemartín (Jerez de la Pérez, Juan 131
Níjar 209 Frontera) 166 Perfume shops 241
“NO8DO” 79 Palacio de Peñaflor (Écija) 137 Personal security 258–9
Noche de San Juan 39 Palacio de San Telmo (Seville) Petrol 271
96, 99, 100 Pharmacies 259
O Palacio de Viana (Córdoba) 23, Phoenicians 46, 47, 168
Ocampo, Andrés de 94 147 Picadores 30
Ohanes Real Alcázar (Seville) 12–13, 77, Picasso, Pablo 58, 187
festivals 38 86–7 Casa Natal de Picasso (Málaga)
Ojén see also Castles and fortresses 182, 183
hotels 218 La Palma del Condado 133 Museo de Picasso (Málaga) 13,
Olavide, Pablo de 155 festivals 40 14, 182, 183
Olives 25, 49 Palma del Río 142 Self-portrait 58 Self-portrait 58 Self-portrait
olive oil 152 hotels 218 Pickman, Charles 109

282  GENER AL INDEX

Pickpockets 258 Real Chancillería (Granada) 196 Roldán, Pedro (cont.)
Pico Veleta 203 Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Iglesia de Santa Catalina
Pinzón, Martín 132 Ecuestre (Jerez de la Frontera) (Seville) 91, 95
Pinzón, Vincente 132 166, 246 Romans 45, 48–9
Pisano, Nicola 94 Reccared, King 49 Acinipo 177
Pizzaro, Francisco 54 Reconquest 52–3 Baelo Claudia 173
Plateresque architecture 29 architecture 28 Itálica 136
Playa Agua Amarga 37 Religious objects shops 241 Necrópolis Romana (Carmona)
Playa de los Genoveses 37, 209 Renaissance architecture 29 137
Plaza de la Corredera (Córdoba) RENFE 266, 267 Romería de los Gitanos (Cabra)
146–7 Republican army, Civil War 39
Plaza de España (Seville) 101 58–9 Romería de Nuestra Señora de la
Plaza del Pópulo (Baeza) 157 Responsible travel 256–7 Cabeza (Andújar) 38, 43, 155
Plaza de San Juan de Dios (Cádiz) Restaurants 220–37 Romería del Rocío (Huelva) 38,
170 Andalucían cuisine 220 42, 133
Plaza Santa Cruz (Seville) 77, 110 Cádiz and Málaga 232–6 Romería de San Isidro 38
Plaza de Toros (Antequera) 181 children in 221 Romería de San Miguel
Plaza de Toros (El Puerto de Santa Córdoba and Jaén 231–2 (Torremolinos) 40
María) 167 disabled travellers 221 Romerías 42
Plaza de Toros de la Maestranza Flavours of Andalucía 222–3 Romero, Pedro 40, 181
(Seville) 12, 68, 72, 246 how to dress 220 Ronda 13, 14, 163, 179, 178–9
Plaza del Triunfo (Seville) 76, 84 Granada and Almería 236–7 bullfighting 179
Plaza Vieja (Almería) 206 Huelva and Sevilla 230–31 festivals 40
Plaza Virgen de los Reyes (Seville) meal times 22, 220 hotels 219
12, 76, 84 reading the menu 220–21 restaurants 235
Police 258, 259 Seville 228–9 Street-by-Street map 178–9
Pop music 245 smoking 221 Ronda la Vieja 177
Poqueira Valley 203, 204 tipping 255 Roquetas de Mar 208
Post-Moorish architecture 28–9 what it costs 221 restaurants 237
Postal services 262, 263 wine choices 221 Royal Tobacco Factory (Seville)
El Postigo (Seville) 69 Riaño, Diego de 79, 110 56, 57, 80, 99, 100–101
Pottery see Ceramics Ribera, Catalina de 93 Rue es Siaghin (Tangier) 187
Pozo, Aurelio del 73 Ribera, José de 137 Rueda, Jerónimo Sánchez de 154
Pozoblanco 143 Rincón de la Victoria 37, 183 Rufina, Santa 106
Priego de Córdoba 154 hotels 219 Ruiz, Hernán
PSOE (political party) 61 La Rinconada Córdoba Cathedral 149
Public holidays 41 restaurants 231 La Giralda (Seville) 82
Public toilets 255 El Rinconcillo (Seville) 91 Puente Romano (Córdoba) 147
Pueblos Blancos tour 14, 176–7 Riofrío 192 Ruiz, Hernán the Younger 93
Puente de Isabel II (Seville) 57, Riotinto Company 128, 130, 131
107, 111 Rivas, Felipe de 92 S
Puente Nuevo (Ronda) 178 Rivera, General Primo de 58, 59 Sacromonte (Granada) 197
Puente Romano (Córdoba) 145, Roads S S Saint Bruno in Ecstasy (Zurbarán) aint Bruno in Ecstasy (Zurbarán) aint Bruno in Ecstasy
147 crossing 272 168
Puerta de Purchena (Almería) driving in Andalucía 270–71 St John the Baptist (Montañés) 94 ohn the Baptist (Montañés) 94 ohn the Baptist
St J
St J
206–7 road signs 270 Salares 185
Puerto Banús 185 El Rocío 127, 133 Sales tax 238, 255
Puerto de la Ragua 205 hotels 217 Salido, Fernando Ortega 158
El Puerto de Santa María 167, 169 restaurants 230 Salobreña 193
hotels 219 Rock music 245 restaurants 237
restaurants 235 Rodalquilar 209 San see also Churches
Punta Umbría 131 Rodríguez, García San Fernando
Andalusian Patio 150 restaurants 235
Q Rodríguez, Ventura 153, 192 San Hugo en el Refectorio
Queipo de Llano, General 59 Roldán, José 153 (Zurbarán) 70
Quesada, Diego de 95 Roldán, Luisa 93 San Jerónimo (Torrigiano) 70
Roldán, Pedro San José 208–9
R Hospital de los Venerables hotels 219
Radio 263 (Seville) 85 San Pedro de Alcántara 187
Rail travel 266–8 Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Sánchez Coello, Alonso 54–5
Rainfall 40 O (Seville) 109 Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166
Raphael, St 145 Iglesia San Ildefonso (Jaén) festivals 39
Real Alcázar (Seville) 12–13, 77, 153 hotels 219
86–7 Iglesia de San Ildefonso (Seville) restaurants 235
azulejos 80 81 Santa Cruz (Seville) 12, 75–87

GENER AL INDEX  283

Santa Cruz (Seville) (cont.) Shopping (cont.) Tapas 222, 224–5
A 90-Minute Walk in Seville markets 240 Tapas bars 225
110–11 VAT exemption 238, 255 Tarifa 13, 14, 173
area map 75 What to Buy in Andalucía beach 37
hotels 216 242–3 hotels 219
restaurants 228–9 when to shop 238 restaurants 235
Street-by-Street map 76–7 Sierra de Aracena 126, 127, 128, Tarifa, 1st Marquess of 81
Santa Fé 192 129, 130 Tariq ben Ziyad 50
Santa Justa station (Seville) 267 Sierra de Cabo de Gata 208 Tarraconensis 49
Santiponce 136 Sierra de Cazorla 25, 139, 161 Tartessus 46, 47
Santuario see Churches Sierra de Grazalema 13, 24 Taxes, VAT exemption 238, 255
Scenic routes 268 Sierra Morena 136, 139 Taxis 273
Scipio Africanus Sierra Morena tour 142–3 safety 258
founds Itálica 48, 127, 136 Sierra Nevada 25, 189, 203 Teatro see Theatres
Punic Wars 155 skiing 249, 251 Tejero, Antonio 61
Security, personal 258–9 Sierra Norte 136 Telephone services 262, 263
Segovia, Andrés 58, 194 Siestas 39 Television 263
Certamen Internacional de Siloé, Diego de 158 Telmo, St 100
Guitarra Classica Andrés Almería Cathedral 206 Temperatures 41
Segovia (Almuñécar) 41 Granada Cathedral 194 Tena, Lucero 33
Segura de la Sierra 160 Guadix Cathedral 204 Tennis 249, 251
Self-catering accommodation 214 Iglesia de la Encarnación Tenorio, Don Juan 73
Semana Santa 23, 38 (Alhama de Granada) 192 Terán, Luis Marín de 73
in Seville 42 Iglesia de la Villa (Montefrío) 192 Theatres 244, 247
Virgen de la Macarena 93 Málaga Cathedral 182 Gran Teatro (Córdoba) 244, 247
Seneca the Elder 48 Real Chancillería 196 Teatro Lope de Vega (Seville) 99,
Seneca the Younger 48, 146 Templo de San Gabriel (Loja) 101, 244, 245
Senior travellers 256, 257 192 Teatro de la Maestranza (Seville)
Setenil 177 Skiing 249, 251 68, 72–3, 244, 245
Sevilla (province) see Huelva and Smoking 221, 255 Theme parks
Sevilla Soraya, Sultana 202 Isla Mágica (Seville) 108, 246
Sevilla en Otoño (Seville) 40 Sorbas 209 Mini Hollywood (Tabernas) 246,
Seville 63–121 Sotogrande 175 247
A 90-Minute Walk in Seville Soult, Marshal 73, 84 Tivoli World (Benalmádena) 246,
110–11 Spaghetti westerns 208 247
Across the River 105–9 Spanish Foreign Legion 187 Theodosius, Emperor 49
airport 264 Spas and Arab baths 250, 251 Tickets
El Arenal 67–73 Alhama de Granada 192 buses 273
Cathedral and La Giralda 76, Baños del Alcázar Califales coaches 269
82–3 (Córdoba) 144, 146 entertainment 244, 247
entertainment 244–7 Baños Arabes (Jaén) 152 trains 266
festivals and fiestas 38–42 El Bañuelo (Granada) 195, 197 Tiles 26, 80, 106
Golden Age 54–5 Fuente Agria 204 Time zones 257
hotels 216 Lanjarón 193 Timetables, train 267
La Macarena 89–95 Special needs, travellers with see Tipping 255
maps 18–19, 64–5 Disabled travellers in hotels 214
maps: Street Finder 112–21 Specialist holidays 250, 251, 256, Toilets, public 255
Museo de Bellas Artes 70–71 257 Toledo
Parque María Luisa 12, 97–103 Speed limits 270 fall of (1085) 51
Real Alcázar 12–13, 86–7 Sports 246, 248–9, 251 Third Council of (589) 49
restaurants 228–9 Spring in Andalucía 38 El Torcal 14, 181
Santa Cruz 12, 75–87 Stamps, postage 262 Torcuato, San 204
shopping 239, 241 Stations 267–9 Torre de la Calahorra (Córdoba)
Three Days in Seville 12–13 Steinacher, Gustavo 107 147
transport 266–9, 272–3 Student travellers 256, 257 Torre de Don Fadrique (Seville) 92
Triana 106–7 Suárez, Adolfo 60 Torre del Oro (Seville) 12, 69, 73
Two Days in Seville 12 Summer in Andalucía 39 Torre Sevilla (Seville) 61, 109
Seville School 70 Sunshine 39 Torre Tavira (Cádiz) 13, 169, 171
Sherry 34–5, 226 Susillo, Antonio 100 Torremolinos 184
Jerez de la Frontera 166–7 Synagogues festivals 40
El Puerto de Santa María 167 Córdoba 144, 146 restaurants 235–6
Sanlúcar de Barrameda 166 Torres, Julio Romero de
Shoe shops 241 T Museo Julio Romero de Torres
Shopping 238–43 Tabernas 208 (Córdoba) 146
how to pay 238 Tangier 186–7 Naranjas y Limones 146

284  GENER AL INDEX

Torrigiano, Pietro Valdés Leal, Juan de (cont.) Wildlife 25
San Jerónimo 70 La Inmaculada 70 Aquarium (Roquetas de Mar)
Tortello, Benvenuto 81 Valencina de la Concepción 208
Tourist information 254, 257 hotels 217 Bahia de Cádiz Nature Reserve
Tours by car Valera, Lorenzo Coullaut 169
Las Alpujarras 204–5 Glorieta de Bécquer 102 Glorieta de Bécquer 102 Glorieta de Bécquer Centro Rescate de la Fauna
Pueblos Blancos 176–7 Válor 205 Sahariana (Almería) 207
Sierra Morena 142–3 festivals 40 Fuente de Piedra 180–81
Trafalgar, Battle of (1805) 56, 57, Vandals 49 Parque Nacional de Doñana 25,
173 Vandelvira, Andrés de 156 134–5
Trains 266–8 Baeza Cathedral 157 Parque Natural de Cabo de
Trajan, Emperor 48, 101 Capilla del Salvador (Úbeda) 158 Gata 208
birthplace 136 Cathedral (Jaén) 152 Parque Natural de Cazorla,
statue of (Baelo Claudia) 173 Hospital de Santiago (Úbeda) 159 Segura and Las Villas
Triana (Seville) 105, 106 Iglesia de San Pablo (Úbeda) 159 25, 161
Trams 272–3 Palacio de las Cadenas (Úbeda) Parque Natural de Los
Translation services 259 158 Alcornocales 173
Travel 264–73 El Vapor Boat (Cádiz) 169 Parque Natural de Montes de
air 264–5 VAT exemption 238, 255 Málaga 183
bus 272, 273 Vázquez de Molina, Juan 158 Parque Natural de Torcal 183
Cádiz and Málaga 165 Vega, Garcilaso de la 151 Selwo Aventura (Estepona) 246,
car 270–71 Vega, Lope de 247
coach 269 Fuente Obejuna 142 Selwo Marina (Benalmádena)
Córdoba and Jaén 141 Teatro Lope de Vega (Seville) 101 246, 247
cycling 273 Vejer de la Frontera 14, 172 Sierra Nevada 203
Granada and Almería 191 hotels 219 wildlife and birdwatching
Huelva and Seville 129 restaurants 236 holidays 248, 251
insurance 258, 259 Velázquez, Diego 55 Yesos de Sorbas 209
rail 266–8 Ayuntamiento (Seville) 79 Zoobotánico (Jerez de la
taxis 273 baptism 90, 95 Frontera) 246, 247
walking 272 Los Vélez, Marqués de 205 Windfarms 173
Traveller’s cheques 260 Vélez Blanco 205 Wine 133, 226
Trevélez 15, 204 Vélez Málaga 183 in restaurants 221
Triana (Seville) 12, 105 Vera Winter in Andalusia 41
A 90-Minute Walk in Seville restaurants 237 Wiring money 260
110–11 Veronica, St 152 Women 22–3
hotels 216 Vespasian, Emperor 48 World War II 60
Street-by-Street map 106–7 Victor’s Beach 37
Triana, Rodrigo de 106 Vigarney, Felipe de 194 Y
The Fall of Granada 52–3 Yegen 205
U Virgen de la Macarena 88, 93 Yerbabuena, Eva 33
Úbeda 15, 158–9 La Virgen de la Servilleta (Murillo) 71 Yesos de Sorbas 209
hotels 218 Virgin Mary 23 Youth hostels 214, 215
map 159 Visas 254
parador 158 Visigoths 45, 48, 49 Z
restaurants 232 architecture 27 Zahara de los Atunes 14, 172
Ubrique 177 Moorish Conquest 50 restaurants 236
UNESCO World Heritage Sites 15, Zahara de la Sierra 176
156–9 W Zamora, Niceto Alcalá 154
Universidad (Seville) 98–9, 100– Walking Zoobotánico (Jerez de la
101 in towns 272 Frontera) 246, 247
Utrecht, Treaty of (1713) 56, 174 walking and trekking holidays Zuheros
248, 251 hotels 218
V War of the Spanish Succession Zurbarán, Francisco de 55, 146,
Valdés, Lucas 56, 174 168
Hospital de los Venerables Washington, George 84 Apoteosis de Santo Tomás de
(Seville) 85 Water, drinking 227 Aquino 71
Iglesia de la Magdalena (Seville) Water sports 249, 251 Ayuntamiento (Seville) 79
72 Weather 39–41 Iglesia de la Magdalena 72
Monasterio de San Clemente 92 Welles, Orson 187 Palacio Arzobispal (Seville) 84
Valdés Leal, Juan de 69, 146 Wheelchair access see Disabled St Bruno in Ecstasy 168 St Bruno in Ecstasy 168 St Bruno in Ecstasy
Ayuntamiento (Seville) 79 travellers San Hugo en el Refectorio 70
Finis Gloriae Mundi 73 Finis Gloriae Mundi 73 Finis Gloriae Mundi “White Villages” see Pueblos The Sleeping Girl 166The Sleeping Girl 166The Sleeping Girl
Hospital de los Venerables Blancos
(Seville) 85 Whitney, Gertrude Vanderbilt 131

A CKNOWLEDGMENT S  285

Acknowledgments


Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people de Andalucía. Particular thanks also to: Javier Morata, Jose Luis de
whose contributions and assistance have made this book possible. Andrés de Colsa and Isidoro González-Adalid Cabezas at Acanto
Arquitectura y Urbanismo, Madrid; Juan Fernández at Aguilar for
Main Contributors his helpful comments; Robert op de Beek at Alvear, Montilla;
David Baird, resident in Andalucía from 1971 to 1995, has written Francisco Benavent at Fundación Andaluza de Flamenco, Jerez
many articles and books on Spain, including Inside Andalusia. de la Frontera; staff at the Locutorio, Granada; Paul Montegrifo;
Martin Symington is a travel journalist and author who has Amanda Corbett at Patronato Provincial de Turismo de Sevilla;
written extensively on Spain. He is a regular contributor to José Pérez de Ayala at the Parque Nacional de Doñana; Gabinete
The Daily Telegraph and also worked on the Eyewitness Travel de Prensa, RENFE, Sevilla; Graham Hines and Rachel Taylor at
Guide to Great Britain. the Sherry Institute of Spain, London; Dr David Stone; Joaquín
Nigel Tisdall, contributor to the Eyewitness Travel Guide to France, Sendra at Turismo Andaluz SA; 6 Toros 6 magazine, Madrid.
is the author of many travel publications, including the Insight
Pocket Guide to Seville. Photography Permissions
The publisher would like to thank all those who gave permission
Additional Contributors to photograph at various ayuntamientos, cathedrals, churches,
Louise Cook, Josefina Fernández, Adam Hopkins, Nick Inman, galleries, hotels, museums, restaurants, shops, transport services
Janet Mendel, Steve Miller, Javier Gómez Morata, Clara Villanueva, and other establishments too numerous to thank individually.
John Gill, Mari Nicholson.
Additional Illustrations: Richard Bonson, Louise Boulton, Brian Picture Credits
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286  A CKNOWLEDGMENT S


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Phr ase book  287

Phrase Book

In Emergency more más mahs
less menos meh-nohs
Help! ¡Socorro! soh-koh-roh
Stop! ¡Pare! pah-reh
Call a doctor! ¡Llame a un yah-meh ah oon Shopping
médico! meh-dee-koh
Call an ambulance! ¡Llame a una yah-meh ah oonah How much ¿Cuánto kwahn-toh
ambulancia! ahm-boo-lahn- does this cost? cuesta esto? kwehs-tah ehs-toh
thee-ah I would like … Me gustaría … meh goos-tah-ree-ah
tee-yeh-yeh-
tee
Call the police! ¡Llame a la yah-meh ah lah Do you have? ¿Tienen? tee -nehn
policía! poh-lee-thee-ah I’m just Sólo estoy soh-loh ehs-toy
Call the fire brigade! ¡Llame a los yah-meh ah lohs looking. mirando, gracias. mee-rahn-doh
bomberos! bohm-beh-rohs grah-thee-ahs
Where is the nearest Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs-tah Do you take ¿Aceptan ah-thehp-tahn
telephone? teléfono más ehl teh-leh-foh-noh credit cards? tarjetas de tahr-heh-tahs deh
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- crédito? kreh-dee-toh
moh What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
Where is the nearest Dónde está el dohn-deh ehs-tah do you open? abren? ah-brehn
hospital? hospital más ehl ohs-pee-tahl What time ¿A qué hora ah keh oh-rah
thee
thee
próximo? mahs prohx-ee- do you close? cierran? thee-yehr-yehr- -rahn
moh This one. Este ehs-teh
That one. Ese eh-seh
expensive caro kahr-oh
Communication Essentials cheap barato bah-rah-toh
size, clothes talla tah-yah
Yes Sí see size, shoes número noo-mehr-oh
No No noh white blanco blahn-koh
Please Por favor pohr fah-vohr black negro neh-groh
Thank you Gracias grah-thee-ahs red rojo roh-hoh
Excuse me Perdone pehr-doh-neh yellow amarillo ah-mah-ree-yoh
Hello Hola oh-lah green verde vehr-deh
Goodbye Adiós ah-dee-ohs blue azul ah-thool
Good night Buenas noches bweh-nahs noh- antique shop la tienda de lah tee -dah
lah tee-yehn-yehn-
lah tee
chehs antigüedades deh ahn-tee-gweh-
Morning La mañana lah mah-nyah-nah dah-dehs
Afternoon La tarde lah tahr-deh bakery la panadería lah pah-nah-deh
Evening La tarde lah tahr-deh ree-ah
ah-
ah-
Yesterday Ayer ah-yehryehr bank el banco ehl bahn-koh
Today Hoy oy book shop la librería lah lee-breh-ree-ah
Tomorrow Mañana mah-nya-nah butcher la carnicería lah kahr-nee-theh-
Here Aquí ah-kee ree-ah
ah-yeeyee
There Allí ah- cake shop la pastelería lah pahs-teh-leh-
ah-
What? ¿Qué? keh ree-ah
When? ¿Cuándo? kwahn-doh chemist la farmacia lah fahr-mah-
Why? ¿Por qué? pohr-keh thee-ah
Where? ¿Dónde? dohn-deh fishmonger la pescadería lah pehs-kah-deh-
ree-ah
Useful Phrases greengrocer la frutería lah froo-teh-ree-ah
lah tee
lah tee-yehn-yehn-
lah tee
-dah
grocery
la tienda de
How are you? ¿Cómo está koh-moh ehs-tah comestibles deh koh-mehs-
usted? oos-tehd tee-blehs
mw
mwee bee-yehnee bee-yehnee bee-
Very well, Muy bien, mw hairdresser la peluquería lah peh-loo-keh-ree-ah
thank you. gracias. grah-thee-ahs market el mercado ehl mehr-kah-doh
ehl k
ehl k
Pleased to Encantado de ehn-kahn-tah-doh newsagent el kiosko ehl kee-yohsee-yohsee- -koh
meet you. conocerle. deh koh-noh- post office de prensa deh prehn-sah
lah oh-fee-thee-nah
la oficina de
thehr-leh correos
See you soon. Hasta pronto. ahs-tah prohn-toh deh kohr-reh-ohs
That’s fine. Está bien. ehs-tah bee-yehn bee-yehn bee- shoe shop la zapatería lah thah-pah-teh-
Where is/are …? ¿Dónde dohn-deh ehs- ree-ah
está/están …? tah/ehs-tah/ehs-tah tahn supermarket el supermercado ehl soo-pehr-mehr-
How far is it to …? Cuántos metros/ kwahn-tohs meh- kah-doh
kilómetros hay trohs/kee-loh- tobacconist el estanco ehl ehs-tahn-koh
de aquí a …? meh-trohs travel agent la agencia de lah ah-hehn-thee-ah
viajes
deh vee-ah-hehs
eye deh ah-kee ah
Which ¿Por dónde pohr dohn-deh
way to …? se va a …? seh vah ah Sightseeing
Do you speak ¿Habla ah-blah
English? inglés? een-glehs art gallery el museo de arte ehl moo-seh-oh
I don’t understand No comprendo noh deh ahr-teh
kohm-prehnohm-prehnohm- -doh cathedral la catedral lah kah-teh-drahl
k k
Could you ¿Puede pweh-deh church la iglesia lah ee-gleh-see-yah
speak slowly hablar ah-blahr la basílica lah bah-see-lee-kah
please? más despacio mahs dehs-pah- garden el jardín ehl hahr-deen
por favor? thee-oh library la biblioteca lah bee-blee-yoh-
pohr fah-vohr teh-kah
I’m sorry. Lo siento. loh see-ehn-toh museum el museo ehl moo-seh-oh
tourist la oficina de lah oh-fee-thee-nah
Useful Words information información deh een-fohr-mah-
office
turística
ce
cee-yohne-yohne-
ce
big grande grahn-deh too-rees-tee-kah
small pequeño peh-keh-nyoh town hall el ayuntamiento ehl ah-yoon-tah-
hot caliente kah-lee-ehn-teh mee-yehn-yehn- -toh
cold frío free-oh closed for cerrado por thehr-rah-doh pohr
vah-kah-cee-
vacaciones
holiday
good bueno bweh-noh yoh-nehs
bad malo mah-loh bus station la estación de lah ehs-tah-ee-yohn-tah-ee-yohn-tah-ee-
lah ehs
lah ehs
enough bastante bahs-tahn-teh autobuses
bee
well bien bee deh owtoh-
bee-yehn-yehn-
open abierto ah-bee-ehr-toh boo-sehs
closed cerrado thehr-rah-doh railway la estación lah ehs-tah-thee-
left izquierda eeth-key-ehr-dah station de trenes ohn deh treh-nehs
right derecha deh-reh-chah
straight on todo recto toh-doh rehk-toh Staying in a Hotel
near cerca thehr-kah
far lejos leh-hohs Do you ¿Tiene tee -neh
tee-yeh-yeh-
tee
up arriba ah-ree-bah have una oo-nah
down abajo ah-bah-hoh a vacant habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
early temprano tehm- room? libre? yohn lee-breh
tehm-prahprah-noh
tehm-
late tarde tahr-deh double habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
entrance entrada ehn-trah-dah room doble yohn doh-bleh
exit salida sah-lee-dah with double con cama de kohn kah-mah deh
toilet lavabos, lah-vah-bohs bed matrimonio mah-tree-moh-
servicios sehr-vee-thee-ohs nee-oh

288  phr ase book


twin room habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- la pimienta pee-mee-yehn-tah pepper
con dos camas yohn kohn dohs el plátano plah-tah-noh banana
kah-mahs
single room habitación ah-bee-tah-thee- el pollo poh-yoh chicken
individual yohn een-dee-vee- el postre pohs-treh dessert
doo-ahl el queso keh-soh cheese
room with habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
a bath con baño, yohn kohn bah- la sal sahl salt
nyoh las salchichas sahl-chee-chahs sausages
shower ducha doo-chah la salsa sahl-sah sauce
porter el botones ehl boh-toh-nehs
key la llave lah yah-veh seco seh-koh dry
I have a Tengo una tehn-goh oo-na el solomillo soh-loh-mee-yoh sirloin
reservation. habitación ah-bee-tah-thee-
reservada. yohn reh-sehr- la sopa soh-pah soup
vah-dah la tarta tahr-tah pie/cake
el té teh tea
Eating Out la ternera tehr-neh-rah beef
tee
Have you ¿Tienen tee-yeh-yeh- -nehn las tostadas tohs-tah-dahs toast
tee
got a table mesa meh-sah el vinagre bee-nah-greh vinegar
for …? para …? pah-rah el vino blanco bee-noh blahn-koh white wine
I want to Quiero kee-yeh-roh el vino rosado bee-noh rosé wine
reserve reservar reh-sehr-vahr
a table. una mesa. oo-nah meh-sah roh-sah-doh
The bill La cuenta lah kwehn-tah el vino tinto bee-noh teen-toh red wine
please. por favor. pohr fah-vohr
I am a Soy soy Numbers
vegetarian vegetariano/a beh-heh-tah-ree-
yah-no/na 0 cero theh-roh
Waitress/ Camarera/ kah-mah-reh-rah 1 uno oo-noh
waiter camarero kah-mah-reh-roh
menu la carta lah kahr-tah 2 dos dohs
fixed-price menú del meh-noo dehl 3 tres trehs
menu día dee-ah 4 cuatro kwa-troh
wine list la carta de lah kahr-tah deh 5 cinco theen-koh
vinos bee-nohs
glass un vaso oon vah-soh 6 seis says
bottle una botella oo-nah boh-teh-yah 7 siete see-yeh-teh
knife un cuchillo oon koo-chee-yoh 8 ocho oh-choh
fork un tenedor oon teh-neh-dohr 9 nueve nweh-veh
spoon una cuchara oo-nah koo-
dee-yehz-yehz-
dee
chah-rah 10 diez dee
breakfast el desayuno ehl deh-sah- 11 once ohn-theh
yoo-noh 12 doce doh-theh
lunch la comida lah koh-mee-dah 13 trece treh-theh
el almuerzo ehl ahl-mwehr-
thoh 14 catorce kah-tohr-theh
dinner la cena lah theh-nah 15 quince keen-theh
main course el primer plato ehl pree-mehr 16 dieciséis dee-eh-thee-seh-ees
plah-toh
starters los entremeses lohs ehn-treh- 17 diecisiete dee-eh-thee-see-
meh-sehs yeh-teh
dish of the day el plato del día ehl plah-toh dehl 18 dieciocho dee-eh-thee-oh-choh
dee-ah 19 diecinueve dee-eh-thee-
coffee el café ehl kah-feh
rare poco hecho poh-koh eh-choh nweh-veh
medium medio hecho meh-dee-yoh 20 veinte beh-yeen-teh
eh-choh 21 veintiuno beh-yeen-tee-oo-
well done muy hecho mwee eh-choh noh
22 veintidós beh-yeen-tee-dohs
Menu Decoder 30 treinta treh-yeen-tah
al horno ahl ohr-noh baked 31 treinta y uno treh-yeen-tah ee
asado ah-sah-doh roast oo-noh
el aceite ah-theh-ee-teh oil 40 cuarenta kwah-rehn-tah
las aceitunas ah-theh-toon-ahs olives 50 cincuenta theen-kwehn-tah
el agua mineral ah-gwa mineral water 60 sesenta seh-sehn-tah
mee-neh-rahl
el ajo ah-hoh garlic 70 setenta seh-tehn-tah
el arroz ahr-rohth rice 80 ochenta oh-chehn-tah
el azúcar ah-thoo-kahr sugar 90 noventa noh-behn-tah
la carne kahr-neh meat 100 cien thee
thee-yehn-yehn-
thee
la cebolla theh-boh-yah onion 101 ciento uno thee -toh oo-
thee-yehn-yehn-
thee
la cerveza thehr-veh-thah beer
el cerdo therh-doh pork noh
thee
thee-yehn-yehn-
el chocolate choh-koh-lah-teh chocolate 102 ciento dos thee -toh dohs
dohs
dohs
el chorizo choh-ree-thoh red sausage 200 doscientos dohs-thee-yehn-thee-yehn-thee- -
el cordero kohr-deh-roh lamb tohs
el fiambre fee-ahm-breh cold meat 500 quinientos khee-nee-yehnhee-nee-yehnhee-nee- -tohs
k k
frito free-toh fried 700 setecientos seh-teh-thee -
seh-teh-thee
seh-teh-thee-yehn-yehn-
la fruta froo-tah fruit
los frutos secos froo-tohs seh-kohs nuts tohs
noh-veh-thee-yehneh-thee-yehneh-thee-
noh-v
las gambas gahm-bahs prawns 900 novecientos noh-v -
el helado eh-lah-doh ice cream tohs
el huevo oo-eh-voh egg 1,000 mil meel
el jamón serrano hah-mohn cured ham 1,001 mil uno meel oo-noh
sehr-rah-noh
el jerez heh-rehz sherry
la langosta lahn-gohs-tah lobster Time
la leche leh-cheh milk one minute un minuto oon mee-noo-toh
el limón lee-mohn lemon
la limonada lee-moh-nah-dah lemonade one hour una hora oo-na oh-rah
la mantequilla mahn-teh-kee-yah butter half an hour media hora meh-dee-a oh-rah
la manzana mahn-thah-nah apple Monday lunes loo-nehs
los mariscos mah-rees-kohs seafood Tuesday martes mahr-tehs
la menestra meh-nehs-trah vegetable stew Wednesday miércoles mee-ehr-koh-lehs
la naranja nah-rahn-hah orange Thursday jueves hweh-vehs
el pan pahn bread
bee-yehr-yehr-
bee
el pastel pahs-tehl cake Friday viernes bee -nehs
las patatas pah-tah-tahs potatoes Saturday sábado sah-bah-doh
el pescado pehs-kah-doh fish Sunday domingo doh-meen-goh