(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Seville & Andalucía

GR ANAD A  199

Palacio del Partal
A tower and its VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
pavilion, with a
five-arched portico, Practical Information
are all that remain Calle Real de la Alhambra, s/n,
of the Palacio del 18009 Granada. Tel 958 02 79 71.
Partal, the Alhambra’s Book by phone: 958 92 60 31 or
oldest palace. online. Open 8:30am–8pm daily
(6pm mid-Oct–mid-Mar).
Night visits: summer:
10–11:30pm Thu–Sat; winter:
8–9:30pm Fri & Sat. & 8 0
∑ alhambra-patronato.es
Booking in advance is essential
in high season.
Transport
@ C3, C4.













Sala de los Reyes
This great banqueting hall was used to hold
extravagant parties and feasts. Beautiful ceiling
paintings on leather, from the 14th century,
depict tales of hunting and chivalry.




. Sala de los
Abencerrajes
This hall takes its name from
a noble family, who were
rivals of Boabdil (see pp52–3).
According to legend, he had
them massacred while they
attended a banquet here.
The pattern of the stalactited
ceiling was inspired by
Pythagoras’ theorem.
Plan of the Alhambra To the
Key to Floorplan Generalife
Casas Reales
(shown above)
Palacio Carlos V Ticket
Alcazaba office
. Patio de los Leones Portal and Medina
Built by Muhammad V, this
patio is lined with arcades Other buildings The Alhambra complex includes the Casas
supported by 124 slender Reales, the 13th-century Alcazaba, the
marble columns. At its centre Palacio Carlos V (see p195) and the Generalife
is a fountain, which rests on (see p202), located just off the map.
12 marble lions.





202  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Granada: Generalife

Located northeast of the Alhambra, the Generalife was the
country estate of the Nasrid kings. Here, they could escape
the intrigues of the palace and enjoy tranquillity high above
the city, a little closer to heaven. The name Generalife, or
Yannat al Arif, has various interpretations, perhaps the most
pleasing being “the garden of lofty paradise”. The gardens,
begun in the 13th century, have been modified over the years.
They originally contained orchards and pastures for animals.
The Generalife provides a magical setting for Granada’s yearly
International Music and Dance Festival (see p39).
Patio de la Acequia
This enclosed oriental garden is
built round a long central pool.
Sala Regia Rows of water jets make graceful
arches above it.
Jardines Altos
(Upper Gardens)



























The Escalera del
Agua is a staircase
with water flowing
gently down it.
The Patio de los Cipreses,
Entrance otherwise known as the Patio de
la Sultana, was the secret meeting
place for Soraya, wife of the Sultan
The Patio de Polo Abu I-Hasan, and her lover, the
was the courtyard chief of the Abencerrajes.
where palace
visitors, arriving on
horseback, would Patio del Generalife
leave their horses. Leading up from the Alhambra
to the Generalife are the Jardines
Bajos (lower gardens). Above them,
just before the main compound,
is the Patio del Generalife.
Picturesque town of Picena in Las Alpujarras

GR ANAD A AND ALMER Í A  203




















The majestic peaks of the Sierra Nevada towering, in places, over 3,000 m (9,800 ft) above sea level
9Las Alpujarras mountains above. Dilapidated The Sierra Nevada was declared
mills and old threshing floors a national park in 1999 and
See pp204–5.
are other signs of a vanishing access to it restricted. The park
way of life. authorities run guided minibus
0Poqueira Valley excursions to the higher slopes
from its checkpoints on the two
Barranco de Poqueira, Granada. qSierra Nevada
Road map E3. n Plaza de la sides of the Sierra Nevada: Hoya
Libertad 7, Pampaneira (958 76 Granada. Road map E3. @ from de la Mora (above the ski station
31 27). Granada. n Parque Nacional Sierra on the Granada side) and Hoya
Nevada Centro de Visitantes “El del Portillo (above Capileira in
Many visitors to the Alpujarras Dornajo”, Carretera de Sierra Nevada the Alpujarras). The Sierra
get no further than this deep, Km 23, Güéjar Sierra (958 98 02 46). Nevada observatory is located
steep-sided valley above Orgiva, ∑ sierranevada.es/en on the northern slopes at an
and it is certainly the best elevation of 2800 m (9,186 ft).
place to head for on a short Fourteen peaks, more than
visit. It contains three pretty, 3,000 m (9,800 ft) high, crown
well-kept villages climbing the heights of the Sierra wLa Calahorra
the slope. In ascending order, Nevada. The snow lingers until Granada. Road map E3. @ Guadix.
they are: Pampaneira, Bubion July and begins falling again in n Town Hall, Plaza Ayuntamiento 1
and Capileira. All these villages late autumn. Europe’s highest (958 67 70 98). Open 10am–1pm,
are perfect examples of the road (closed to traffic) runs past 4–6pm Wed.
singular architectural style of the a ski resort at 2,100 m (6,890 ft),
Alpujarras, which has its closest and skirts the two highest Immensely thick walls encircle
relation in the Atlas Mountains peaks, Pico Veleta at 3,398 m this castle, perched on a hillock
of Morocco. The whitewashed (11,145 ft) and Mulhacén at above the village. Rodrigo de
houses of each village huddle 3,482 m (11,420 ft). The altitude Mendoza, son of Cardinal
together seemingly randomly and closeness to the Mediter- Mendoza, ordered La Calahorra
(“a confused agglomeration ranean of this mountain range to be built for his bride between
of boxes” as the writer Gerald account for its array of fauna 1509 and 1512, using architects
Brenan described them), with and flora. It is a habitat for and craftsmen from Italy. Inside
flat grey gravel roofs sprouting golden eagles, rare butterflies is a Renaissance courtyard
a variety of eccentrically tall and over 60 species of flowers with a staircase and Carrara
chimneys. The streets between unique to the area. marble pillars.
the houses are rarely straight,
often stepped and tapering,
and they sometimes disappear
into short tunnels.
The countryside between
the villages makes excellent
walking or horse-riding country.
The slopes are still divided by
dry-stone walls into terraced
fields that are fed by an ingenious
irrigation system that distributes
the melt water from the The castle of La Calahorra above the village of the same name
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7

204  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


1701 and 1796. Near the
9th-century Alcazaba, the
Mudéjar Iglesia de Santiago
has a fine coffered ceiling.
Palacio de Peñaflor, dating
from the 16th century, has
been fully restored.
E Museo de Alfarería
C/San Miguel 59 (958 66 47 67). Open
10:30am–2pm, 4:30–8pm daily. &
E Centro de Interpretación
Cuevas de Guadix
Ermita Nueva s/n. (958 66 55 69).
Whitewashed cave dwellings in the troglodyte quarter of Guadix Open 10am–2pm, 4–6pm Mon–Fri
(5–7pm in summer), 10am–2pm
eGuadix people live underground. Around Sat. &
2,000 years ago Guadix had iron,
Granada. Road map E3. * 20,100. rBaza
£ @ n Avenida de la Constitución copper and silver mines. The
15–18 (958 66 28 04). ( Sat. town thrived under the Moors Granada. Road map E2. * 20,000.
∑ guadix.es and after the Reconquest (see @ n Calle Alhóndiga 1, under
pp52–3), but declined in the museum (958 86 13 25). ( Wed.
The troglodyte quarter, with 18th century. Relics of San
2,000 inhabited caves, is the Torcuato, who established the Impressive evidence of ancient
town’s most remarkable sight. first Christian bishopric in cultures based around Baza came
The Museo de Alfarería and Spain, are kept in the cathedral to light in 1971, when a large,
Centro de Interpretación museum. The Catedral, begun seated, female figure was found
Cuevas de Guadix show how in 1594, was finished between in a necropolis. She is the Dama
9 A Tour of Las Alpujarras

Las Alpujarras lie on the southern slopes of the Sierra
Nevada. The villages in this area cling to valley sides
clothed with oak and walnut trees. Their flat-roofed
houses are distinctive and seen nowhere else in
Andalucía. Local food is rustic. A speciality is plato 4 Trevélez
alpujarreño: pork fillet, ham, sausage and blood sausage, Trevélez, in the shadow of Mulhacén,
accompanied by a pinkish wine from the Contraviesa is built in typical Alpujarran style and
mountains. Local crafts include handwoven rugs (see is famous for its cured hams.
p242) and curtains with Moorish-influenced designs. S i e r r a
Mulhacén
3,479 m
2 Poqueira Valley 11,410 ft Trevélez
Three villages typical of Las Tr T
Alpujarras in this river valley
are Capileira, Bubión and
Pampaneira (see p203). Poqueira
Juviles
Pórtugos
Pitres

Guadalfe fe f o
Lanjarón
Granada
1 Orgiva
This is the largest town of the 3 Fuente Agria d e l a
region, with a Baroque church People come here from far and S i e r r a
in the main street and a lively wide to drink the iron-rich,
Thursday market. naturally carbonated waters.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp219 and pp236–7

GR ANAD A AND ALMER Í A  205


de Baza (see p47), believed to tVélez Blanco Renaissance splendour has since
represent an Iberian goddess, and been ripped out and shipped to
estimated to be 2,400 years old. Almería. Road map F2. * 2,200. @ the Metropolitan Museum of
Subsequently, she was removed Vélez Rubio. n Marqués de los Vélez New York. There is, however, a
s/n (950 41 95 85). ( Wed.
to the Museo Arqueológico in reconstruction of one of the
Madrid but a replica can be seen Dominating this pleasant little original patios.
in the Museo Arqueológico in village is the mighty Castillo de A blend of Gothic, Renaissance
Baza. The Renaissance Colegiata Vélez Blanco. It was built from and Mudéjar styles (see pp28–9)
de Santa María, nearby, has a 1506 to 1513 by the first Marquis can be seen in the Iglesia de
Plateresque entrance and a fine de Los Vélez, and its interior richly Santiago, located in the village’s
18th-century tower. adorned by Italian craftsmen. main street.
During the first few days of Unfortunately for the visitor its Just outside Vélez Blanco is
September a riotous fiesta takes the Cueva de los Letreros,
place (see p40). An emissary, El which contains paintings from
Cascamorras, is despatched from around 4000 BC. One image
the neighbouring town of Guadix depicts a horned man holding
to try to bring back a coveted sickles; another the Indalo, a
image of the Virgin from Baza’s figure believed to be a deity
Convento de la Merced. He is with magical powers, still used
covered in oil and chased back to as a symbol of Almería.
Guadix by youths, also covered in
oil. There, he is taunted again for + Castillo de Vélez Blanco
returning empty-handed. Tel 607 41 50 55. Open 10am–2pm,
5–8pm Wed–Sun (Oct–Mar: 4–6pm).
E Museo Arqueológico T Cueva de los Letreros
Plaza Mayor s/n. Tel 958 86 19 47. Camino de la Cueva de los Letreros.
Open 11am–2pm Tue–Sun (also The village of Vélez Blanco, overlooked by a Tel 694 46 71 36. Open Wed, Sat, Sun
6–7:30pm Thu–Sat). 16th-century castle & public hols by appointment. &

6 Yegen La Calahorra
A plaque marks the
house where Gerald
Brenan, the author of
South from Granada,
lived in the 1920s.


7 Válor
N e v a d a ea e Alcolea Aben Humeya, leader of a rebellion by
Moriscos (see p54), was born in this
village. A commemorative battle
Macina between Moors and Christians is staged
each year in mid-September (see p40).
8 Puerto de la Ragua
This pass, which leads across the
mountains to Guadix, is nearly
Yátor Ugíjar Cherín 2,000 m (6,560 ft) high and often
snowbound in winter.
5 Cádiar
A fountain in the Tips for Drivers
Ugíj íj í ar centre of this town
runs with wine Tour length: 85 km (56 miles).
during the October Stopping-off points: Orgiva and
fiesta (see p40). Trevélez have bars, restaurants
and hotels. Bubión has hotels
and one good restaurant (see
C o n t r a v i e s a Key p236). Capileira has bars and
Tour route restaurants. Orgiva is the last
0 kilometres 10 petrol stop before Cádiar.
Other roads
0 miles 05 Mountain peak

206  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

i Almería

A colossal fortress bears witness to Almería’s golden age, niche with cupola. The church,
when it was an important port for the Caliphate of Córdoba. built over the mosque, was
Known as al Mariyat (the Mirror of the Sea), the city was a damaged in the Spanish Civil
centre for trade and textile industries, with silk, cotton and War and abandoned until 1979.
It is now restored.
brocade among its chief exports. After the city fell to the
Catholic Monarchs (see pp52–3) in 1489, it went into decline R Catedral
for the next 300 years. During the 19th and early 20th Plaza de la Catedral 8. Tel 678 27 97
centuries, mining and a new port revived the city’s fortunes, 50. Open Mon–Sat.
but this period ended abruptly with the start of the Civil War From North Africa, Berber pir-
(see pp58–9). Today a North African air still pervades the ates would often raid Almería.
Consequently, the cathedral
city, with its flat-roofed houses, desert-like environs and looks more like a fortress than
palm trees and regular ferry services still link the city a place of worship, with four
with Morocco. towers, thick walls and small
windows. A mosque once stood
on the site. It was later conver-
ted to a Christian temple, but
destroyed by an earthquake
in 1522. Work began on the
present building in 1524 under
the direction of Diego de Siloé.
Juan de Orea designed the
Renaissance façade. He also
created the beautifully carved
walnut choir stalls. The naves
and high altar are Gothic.
P Plaza Vieja
The 10th-century Alcazaba in Almería’s old town Also known as the Plaza de la
Constitución, this is a 17th-
+ Alcazaba R Iglesia San Juan century arcaded square. On
C/Almanzor s/n. Tel 950 80 10 08. C/Calle San Juan & Calle Gen Luque. one side is the Ayuntamiento,
Open Tue–Sun. Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. Tel 950 23 30 07. Open Apr–Sep: a building with a cream and
Fine views are offered by this 7–7:30pm daily; Oct–Mar: 6–6:30pm pink façade dating from 1899.
1,000-year old Moorish fortress. Sat–Thu.
It has been restored and within Traces of Almería’s most P Puerta de Purchena
its walls are pleasant gardens important mosque can still be Located at the heart of the city,
and a Mudéjar chapel. It was the seen – one wall of the present the Puerta de Purchena was
largest fortress built by the Moors church is Moorish. Inside is a once one of the main gateways
and covered an area of more than 12th-century mihrab, a prayer in the city walls. From it run a
25,000 sq m (269,000 sq ft). The
walls extend for 430 m (1,410 ft).
Abd al Rahman III started con-
struction in AD 955, but there
were considerable additions later.
The fort withstood two major
sieges but fell to the Catholic
Monarchs in 1489. Their coat of
arms can be seen on the Torre
del Homenaje, which was built
during the monarchs’ reign.
In the past, a bell in the
Alcazaba was rung to advise
the farmers in the surrounding
countryside when irrigation was
allowed. Bells were also rung to
warn the citizens of Almería when
pirates had been sighted off the
coast. It is inadvisable for visitors
to wander around the Alcazaba
district alone or after dark. The pedestrianized 17th-century Plaza Vieja, surrounded by elegant arcades
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7

GR ANAD A AND ALMER Í A  207


number of shopping streets, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
including the wide Paseo de
Almería. A tree-lined thorough- Practical Information
fare, this is the focus of city life, Almería. Road map F3.
with its cafés, Teatro Cervantes * 170,000. n Parque Nicolás
and nearby food market. Salmerón s/n (950 17 52 20).
( Tue, Fri & Sat. _ Semana
O Centro Rescate de la Santa (Easter), Feria de Almería
Fauna Sahariana (last week Aug).
∑ andalucia.org
C/General Segura 1. Tel 950 28
10 45. Open call ahead for an Transport
appointment. £ Plaza de la Estación (902 32
At the rear of the Alcazaba, 03 20). @ Plaza de la Estación
this rescue centre shelters (950 17 36 02). g 950 25 42 17.
endangered species from the
Sahara, in particular different Brightly coloured entrance to a gypsy cave
kinds of gazelle. Having in La Chanca district defensive ramparts and a
flourished in Almería’s arid necropolis that contains
climate, some animals have archaeological museum that more than 100 tombs have
been shipped to restock African has 900 exhibits chosen from a since been uncovered.
nature reserves. collection of 80,000 pieces. The community here lived
from agriculture but also had
E Museo de Almería Environs the capability to forge tools,
Carretera de Ronda 91. Tel 950 One of the most important arms and adornments from
10 04 09. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: examples of a Copper Age copper, which was mined in
9am–3pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm Sun settlement in Europe, Los the nearby of Sierra de Gador.
& public hols; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: Millares, lies 17 km (10.5 miles)
9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm Sun & north of Almería. As many as T Los Millares
public hols. & (free for EU citizens). 2,000 people occupied the site Santa Fé de Mondújar. Tel 677 90 34
Almería’s two main prehistoric from around 2700 to 1800 BC 04. Open 10am–2pm Wed–Sun.
civilizations, Los Millares and (see pp46–7). Discovered in (Groups of 12 or more call ahead.)
El Algar, are explained in this 1891, remains of houses, ∑ andalucia.org

Sights at a Glance
1 Alcazaba 6 Centro Rescate ANTONIO VICO
2 Iglesia San Juan de la Fauna Mirador de CAMINO DE SA N C R I S T Ó BAL ORO Los Millares
PLAZA
3 Catedral Sahariana San Cristóbal BEL L U GA ROMERO MANUEL
PÉREZ
4 Plaza Vieja GARCÍA Puerta
5 Puerta de M AR Í N Iglesia de de Purchena
Santiago
Centro Rescate de
Purchena la Fauna Sahariana P O S I T O TI ENDAS LAS FLORES
PLAZADE
LAS
Alcazaba HÉRCULES Plaza PLAZA C A ST ELAR
JOVELLANOS
Ayuntamiento Vieja DE SAN San Pedro
PEDRO
PLAZA DE MILAGRO R EA L
JOAQUÍN JUEZ PLAZA
PAR QUE R AM ÓN C A S T IL L A P É R E Z
ENCUENTRO
SANTISTEBAN
Barrio REDUCTO SAN ILDEFONSO C EPE R O M OLINO LOPE DE VEGA CAREAGA PADRE LUQUE PLAZA DEL
la Chanca CHANTRE PLAZA ECUADOR
SAN ANTÓN SAN JUAN A L M E D I NA GRANERO PLAZA DE I NFA NTA GONZÁLEZ 900m (980 yards)
EGEA
PLAZA
Bus Station
DESCANSO
Train Station
Gobierno LA CATEDRAL E. PÉ R EZ 900m (980 yards)
Militar PLAZA Iglesia Catedral PLAZA
San Juan
CI PRÉ S BENDICHO PA S E O Museo de
CHAFARINAS ES TR ELLA R E I N A PLAZA MASNOU
Basílica de Nuestra
Almería
Señora del Mar
C. HOSPI TA L
MÁLAGA Teatro D E
LICEO RE AL Cervantes
ALBORÁN
ÁLVAREZ DE CASTRO MARTÍNEZ CAMPOS Gobierno PLAZA
PA R Q U E
D E GERONA A L M E R Í A
N I C O L Á S
S A L M E R Ó N
Civil
AND É N DE C O STA
PÉREZ
LÓPEZ FALCÓN
Palacio de DE EMILIO
Justicia
Mediterranean Sea
0 metres 250 AN D É N DE C O STA Mojácar Cabo
de Gata
0 yards 250
For keys to symbols see back flap

208  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


Spaghetti Westerns
Two Wild West towns lie off the N340 highway
west of Tabernas. Here, visitors can re-enact
classic film scenes or watch stunt men performing
bank hold-ups and saloon brawls. The Poblados
del Oeste were built during the 1960s and early
1970s when low costs and eternal sunshine made
Almería the ideal location for spaghetti westerns.
Sergio Leone, director of The Good, the Bad and
the Ugly, built a ranch here and film-sets sprang , built a ranch here and film-sets sprang
the Ugly
the Ugly
up in the desert. Local gypsies played Indians
and Mexicans. The deserts and Arizona-style
badlands are still used occasionally for television
commercials and series, and by film directors
Still from For a Few Dollars More by Sergio Leone such as Steven Spielberg.
yTabernas oParque Natural from Africa. Among the 170
de Cabo de Gata or so bird species recorded in
Almería. Road map F3. * 3,000.
@ n on main road: N340, km 464 Almería. Road map F3. @ to San the park there are flamingoes,
(950 52 50 30). ( Wed. avocets, Dupont’s larks and
José. n Centro de Visitantes de las griffon vultures. Attempts
A Moorish hilltop fortress Amoladeras, Carretera Cabo de Gata to reintroduce the monk seal,
presides over the town of km 6 (950 16 04 35). Park Open daily. which died out in the 1970s,
Tabernas and the surrounding however, have now ceased.
dusty, cactus-dotted landscape Towering cliffs of volcanic rock, At the northern end of the park,
of eroded hills and dried-out sand dunes, salt flats, secluded where there is a cormorants’
riverbeds. The harsh, rugged coves and a few fishing settle- fishing area, is Punta de los
scenery has figured in many ments can be found in the Muertos, (“dead man’s point”);
so-called spaghetti westerns. 290 sq km (112 sq m) Parque this takes its name from the
Not far from Tabernas is a Natural de Cabo de Gata. The bodies of shipwrecked sailors
solar energy research centre, end of the cape, near the that are said to have washed
where hundreds of heliostats Arrecife de las Sirenas (Sirens’ ashore there.
follow the course of southern Reef), is marked by a lighthouse.
Andalucía’s powerful sunshine. The park includes a stretch of
sea-bed about 2 km (1.2 miles) pSan José
wide, which allows protection
uRoquetas de Mar of the marine flora and fauna; Almería. Road map F3. * 1,000. @
n Avenida de San José 27 (950 38 02
the clear waters attract divers
Almería. Road map F3. * 34,000. 99). ( Sun (Easter & summer).
n Avenida de las Marinas 2 (950 33 and snorkellers.
32 03). The area of dunes and Located on a fine, sandy bay,
saltpans between the cape San José is a small but fast-
Much of Almería’s southern and the Playa de San Miguel growing sea resort within the
coastal plain is given over to is a habitat for thorny jujube Parque Natural de Cabo de
massive plastic greenhouses in trees. Thousands of migrating Gata. Rising behind it is the arid
which vegetables and flowers birds stop here en route to and Sierra de Cabo de Gata, a range
are raised for export. Interrupting
the greenhouses is the resort of
Roquetas de Mar, which has a
17th-century castle and a squat
lighthouse, both used for
exhibitions. Roquetas also has
an aquarium with tropical and
Mediterranean species of fish.
O Aquarium
Avda Reino de España.
Tel 950 16 00 36. Open 10am–6pm
Wed–Fri, 10am–7pm Sat & Sun. &
∑ aquariumroquetas.com

iAlmería
See pp206–7. Lighthouse overlooking the cliffs of the Parque Natural de Cabo de Gata
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7

GR ANAD A AND ALMER Í A  209

dMojácar
Almería. Road map F3. * 7,000. @
n Plaza del Frontón 1 (950 61 50 25).
( Wed & Sun.
From a distance, the village
of Mojácar shimmers like the
mirage of a Moorish citadel,
its white houses cascading
over a lofty ridge near to the
sea. The village was taken by
the Christians in 1488 and the
The harbour at the traditional fishing village of La Isleta Moors were later expelled. In
the years after the Spanish
of bleak grandeur. Nearby are There are two buildings in this Civil War (see pp58–9) the village
fine beaches, including Playa village worth a look: the 16th- fell into ruin, as much of its
de los Genoveses (see p37). Along century Iglesia de Santa María population emigrated. In the
the coast are Rodalquilar, and a 17th-century mansion 1960s Mojácar was discovered
a town once important for said to have once been a by tourists, giving rise to a
gold-mining, and La Isleta, summer retreat for the Duke new era of prosperity. The old
a fishing hamlet. of Alba. gateway in the walls is still here,
Another point of interest for but otherwise the village has
visitors is the traditional, rustic been completely rebuilt.
aNíjar earthenware turned out and
sold by Sorbas’ local potters.
Almería. Road map F3. * 3,000. @
n Fundición s/n, Rodalquilar (671 59 Located near to Sorbas is
44 19). ( Wed. the peculiar Yesos de Sorbas
nature reserve. This is an unusual
Set amid a lush oasis of citrus region of karst, where water
trees on the edge of the Sierra action has carved out hundreds
Alhamilla, Níjar’s fame stems of subterranean galleries and
from the colourful pottery and chambers in the limestone and
the jarapas, handwoven rugs gypsum strata. Speleologists
and blankets, that are made are allowed to explore the caves,
here. The town’s historic quarter but only if they are granted
is typical of Andalucía, with permission by Andalucía’s
narrow streets and wrought- environmental department.
iron balconies. On the surface, the green, fertile
The Iglesia de Nuestra valley of the Río de Aguas cuts
Señora de la Anunciación, through dry, eroded hills. Local
dating from the 16th century, wildlife in this area includes Pensión façade in the picturesque
has a coffered Mudéjar ceiling, tortoises and peregrine falcons. village of Mojácar
delicately inlaid. The barren
plain between Níjar and the Blood Wedding At Nijar
sea has begun to blossom
thanks to irrigation. Bodas de Sangre (Blood Wedding), a play by Federico García Lorca
In Spanish minds, the name (see p59), is based on a tragic event that occurred in 1928 near the
of Níjar is closely associated town of Níjar. A woman called Paquita la
with a poignant and violent Coja agreed, under pressure from her
incident that occurred here sister, to marry a suitor, Casimiro.
in the 1920s, and later became A few hours before the ceremony,
the subject of a play by Federico however, she fled with her cousin.
García Lorca. Casimiro felt humiliated and Paquita’s
sister, who had hoped to benefit from the
dowry, was furious. The cousin was found
sSorbas shot dead and Paquita half-strangled.
Paquita’s sister and her husband,
Almería. Road map F3. * 3,000. @ Casimiro’s brother, were found
n Centro de Visitantes los Yesares, guilty of the crime. Shamed by
Calle Terraplen, 9 (950 36 45 63). this horrific scenario, Paquita hid
( Thu. from the world until her death in
1987. Lorca never visited Níjar,
Balanced on the edge of a deep The dramatist Federico García Lorca but based his play on
chasm, Sorbas overlooks the Río (1899–1936) newspaper reports.
de Aguas, which flows far below.



TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 212–219

Where to Eat and Drink 220–237
Shops and Markets 238–243
Entertainment in Andalucía 244–247
Outdoor Activities
and Specialist Holidays 248–251

212  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO STAY


Some of the most charming places to stay Apartments and village houses throughout
in Spain are in Andalucía. They range from the region are let by the week for self-
restored atmospheric castles to family catering holidays. Andalucía’s climate is also
guesthouses, and luxurious hotels to organic ideal for camping (except Nov–Mar), which
farms deep in the countryside. For budget can be a cheaper alternative.
travellers there are pensions and youth The hotel listings on pages 216–19 are
hostels, and for hikers there are mountain organized into different themes, with DK
refuges. A night or two in a B&B is an Choices highlighted. See Recommended
increasingly popular option in rural areas. Hotels on page 215 for more information.


hotel with secure private parking, more relaxing, there are good
or look around the city’s outer small hotels a short way inland.
suburbs. You can ask your hotel Look out for them in the white
to direct you to attended car towns between Arcos de la
parks in the city. A reasonable Frontera (see p177) and Ronda
alternative is to stay in a town (see pp178–9), and around
close to Seville, such as Carmona Cazorla (see p160).
(see pp136–7). Two small private chains have
Granada has two main hotel a growing network of hotels in
districts: around the Alhambra western Andalucía: the luxury
(see pp198–9), which is quiet, Fuerte group and the budget
and around the centre, which Tugasa chain.
is livelier, noisier and usually
cheaper. Central hotels make
The Monasterio de San Francisco in the best base for going out Hotel Grading and
Facilities
Palma del Río (see p218) (see p218) ( on the town at night.
In Córdoba the Judería (see Hotels in Andalucía are awarded
pp144–5) is the most convenient categories and stars by the
Where to Look
place to stay if you plan to get regional tourist authorities.
In Seville, the most appealing around on foot. If you drive, you Hotels (H is the abbreviation) are
places to stay are mainly in the may prefer a hotel on the assigned between one and five
centre of town, especially around outskirts of the city. stars and pensions (P) between
the Santa Cruz district (see pp74– Hotels in Andalucía’s coastal one and two stars. The star-rating
87), where there is a broad range resorts are mainly the modern system assesses the quantity
of hotels. As in most cities, the chains that cater for package of facilities a hotel has (such as
cheapest hotels tend to be holiday-makers, although there whether there is a lift, a restaurant
small family-run pensions. are also many small, family- or air conditioning) rather than
Parking is always a problem in owned seaside hotels favoured the quality of service to expect.
the town centre, so if you drive, by Spanish and foreign visitors Most hotels in the region have
you may have to book into a alike. If you want somewhere restaurants that can be used by

















Moorish-style patio at the Parador de Carmona (see p217)(see p217)(
Stained glass windows at Atarazanas market, Málaga

WHERE T O ST A Y  213


non-residents. Hotel-Residencias
(HR), however, do not have
dining rooms, although they
may serve breakfast.

Paradors
Paradors are government-run
hotels that fall into the three-
to five-star classifications. The
best ones occupy historic
monuments, such as castles,
monasteries, palaces and old
hunting lodges, but a number
of paradors have been purpose-
built in attractive settings. Though
a parador may not always be
the best hotel in town, it
can be counted on to deliver a
predictable level of comfort:
regional dishes will always be on
the menu and rooms are usually
comfortable and spacious. Ceramic tiling and Moorish arches at the famous Alfonso Xlll in Seville (see p216)(see p216)(
If you are travelling around the
paradors during high season, high-season price range, so be week in advance, or you may
or intending to stay in smaller sure to enquire about availability lose all or some of your deposit.
paradors, it is advisable to and prices in advance. A reserved room will be held
book ahead through parador Note that most hotels in only until 6pm unless you can
agents (see p214). Andalucía will quote prices per inform the hotel that you are
room and meal prices per going to arrive late.
person without When you book in you will
Prices
IVA (VAT). be asked for your passport or
Hotels are obliged by identity card, to comply with
law to display their Booking and police regulations. It will be
range of prices at the returned to you when your
reception desk and in Checking In details have been copied.
every room. As a rule, You do not need to You are usually expected to
the more stars a hotel book ahead if you are check out of your room by
has, the more you pay. travelling off-season in noon or to pay for another
Rates for a double rural Andalucía, unless night. Most hotels are happy
room start at €45 per you want to stay in a to keep your luggage for you
night in a cheap one- Five-star hotel particular hotel. On the until later that day.
star pension and can restaurant sign other hand, it is
average as high as essential to reserve
€275 or more; some are even rooms by phone, through a
€600 in a five-star hotel. travel agent or on the Internet if
Prices vary according to the you travel in high season. You
room, the region and season. will also need to book if you
Rural hotels are generally want a specific room, with a
cheaper than city ones. All the good view, with a double bed
prices quoted on pages 216–19 (twin beds are the norm), or
are based on the rates for high away from a noisy road. Hotels
season. High season at the beach in many coastal resorts close in
is usually July and August, but the winter, so check that where
it can also run from April to you want to stay is open.
October. Inland, the peak season Some hotels will request a
is September, October and from deposit of 20–25 per cent for
mid-March to June. City hotels booking during peak times,
charge inflated rates during or for a long stay. This can be
major fiestas, such as Semana arranged by credit card and
Santa (see p42) in Seville. Easter phone, even in smaller hotels.
is a popular travel period for Others will hold your booking
the Spanish themselves, and it until an agreed arrival time. Try Minimalist interior of Hospes Palacio de
is usually included in the to make cancellations at least a Bailio in Córdoba (see p217)(see p217)(

214  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


agents belong to an organi-
zation called the RAAR (Red
Andaluza de Alojamientos
Rurales or Andalucían Rural
Accommodation Network),
through which it is possible to
make direct bookings.
Prices charged for self-
catering accommodation
sometimes vary considerably:
prices are determined by
location, the season and type
of property. A four-person
The Marbella Club Hotel an exclusive beachside hotel in Marbella (see p218)(see p218)( villa with a pool typically costs
as little as €240 for a week if it is
Paying Self-Catering
inland and over €950 per week
Most hotels, except the most Villas and holiday flats let by if it is in a prime coastal location.
basic of bed and breakfasts, the week are plentiful along the Another possibility is a villa
accept payment by credit card. Costa del Sol and the coasts turística (holiday village), which
In some large hotels you may of Granada and Almería. Most is half hotel, half holiday
be asked to sign a blank credit cities will also have holiday let apartments. Guests can hire
card slip on arrival. This is accommodation in central, well- rooms with kitchens and use
against Spanish law, and you furnished apartments that may the restaurant.
are advised to refuse to sign. be cheaper than a comparable
No hotel in Andalucía takes hotel and give you the option
cheques, even when backed by of preparing your own meals. Bed and Breakfast
a guarantee card or drawn on a The local tourism office can Andalucía’s 500 or more casas
Spanish bank, and few accept supply information about rurales offering bed and
traveller’s cheques. letting agencies. breakfast range from stately
In Spain it is customary Inland, an increasing number cortijos (manor houses) to small
to tip the porter and the of village and farm houses are organic farms. Do not
chambermaid in a hotel by also being let all over the necessarily expect the usual
€1–2. The usual amount to tip region. In the UK, a number of full hotel service or a long list
in hotel restaurants is 5–10 per private companies, among of facilities. However, you are
cent of the bill, although some them James Villa Holidays, likely to be met with a friendly
restaurants will have included a act as agents for owners of welcome and be spoiled with
service charge already. apartments and houses. Many good home cooking.
DIRECTORY
Hotels Paradors Youth Hostels Club de Camping y
Caravanning de
Asociación de Central de Reservas Central de Reservas Andalucía
Hoteles Rurales de Calle José Abascal 2–4, de Inturjoven Calle Francisco Carrión
Andalucía (AHRA) 28003 Madrid. Virgen de la Victoria 46, Mejias 13, 41003 Seville.
C/Cueva de Viera 2. Tel 902 54 79 79. 41011 Seville. Map 3 A4. Tel 954 22 77 66.
Centro del Negocio CADI, ∑ parador.es Tel 955 18 11 81. ∑ irdecampings.com
Edificio Málaga Keytel ∑ inturjoven.com
3ª planta local 8, The Foundry, Federación Andaluza
29200 Antequera, 156 Blackfriars Road, Mountain Refuges de Campings
Málaga. London SE1 8EN UK. Federación Andaluza Carretera de los Filtros 55,
Tel 952 70 51 28. Tel (020) 7199 6360. de Montañismo 18008 Granada. Tel 958 22
∑ ahra.es ∑ keytel.co.uk Calle Santa Paula 23, 2˚ 35 17. ∑ campings
Asociación de Planta, 18001 Granada. andalucia.es
Hoteles de Sevilla Self-Catering and Tel 958 29 13 40. Open: Disabled Travellers
Calle San Pablo 1, Bed & Breakfast 8:30am–2:30pm 4–7pm
Casa A Bajo, Mon–Fri. ∑ fedamon. Can Be Done
41001 Seville. James Villa Holidays com Congress House, 14 Lyon
Tel 954 22 15 38. Tel (0800) 074 01 22. Road, Harrow HA1 2EN,
∑ hotelesdesevilla.com ∑ jamesvillas.co.uk Camping UK. Tel (020) 8907 2400.
Fuerte Hotels RAAR Camping and ∑ canbedone.co.uk
∑ fuertehoteles.com Sagunto 8-10-3, Caravanning Club
04004 Almería. Tel (024) 76 47 54 48. Viajes 2000
Tugasa Hotels Tel 950 28 00 93. ∑ campingand Tel 954 28 11 77.
∑ tugasa.com ∑ raar.es caravanningclub.co.uk ∑ viajes2000.com

WHERE T O ST A Y  215


called Holidays and Travel
Abroad, and Accessible Tourism
publishes a fact sheet for
disabled travellers in Spain.
In Spain, the Confederación
Coordinadora Estatal de
Minusválidos Fisicos de España,
also known as Servi-COCEMFE
(see p256), and Viajes 2000 have
details of hotels with special
facilities in Andalucía.
Can Be Done arranges
accessible accommodation,
transport and other help for
Outdoor pool at the historic Alcazar de la Reinahotel in Carmona (see p217)(see p217)( visitors all over Europe.
A stay at a bed and breakfast can and in popular countryside
be booked through RAAR, areas. Most have electricity and Recommended Hotels
which specializes in farmstays running water; some also have The hotels listed on pages 216–
and rural accommodation, the launderettes, restaurants, shops, 19 cover the best boutique,
owners’ association, or directly. play areas for children and pools. luxury, bed and breakfast, inn
If you are booking from abroad It is wise to take a camping and historic accommodation
you may be asked to send a c c carnet (card). It can be used to arnet (card). It can be used to arnet types in Seville and Andalucía.
10 per cent deposit and to stay check in at sites, and it also They are listed by price within
for at least two nights. gives you third-party insurance. each area. Boutique hotels
Carnets are issued by the AA, have character and high design
the RAC, and by camping and elements, while luxury hotels
Youth Hostels and caravanning clubs. A map of all encompass the finest of Seville
Mountain Refuges the region’s camp sites, with and Andalucía’s upscale hotels.
To use Andalucía’s links to their websites, Bed and breakfasts offer a
extensive network of is available from the friendly ambience, with cosy
albergues juveniles F.A.C. (Federación rooms and a hearty breakfast,
(youth hostels) you Andaluza de while inns are quaint places
have to buy an Campings). oozing charm. The region is also
international Youth full of historic accommodation
Hostel Association card Disabled Travellers as many monasteries and
from a hostel or show Logo for a mansions have been converted
a YHA card from your five-star hotel Hotel managers will into hotels.
country. Bed and advise on wheelchair Throughout the listings,
breakfast costs between €12 access and staff will always certain hotels have been
and €18 per person. You can assist, but few hotels are marked as DK Choice. These
book a bed or room in a hostel equipped for the disabled. offer a particularly special
directly or through the central However, some of the youth experience – for their beautiful
booking office of Inturjoven – hostels are. RADAR (see p256), surroundings, excellent service,
Central de Reservas de the Royal Association for outstanding rooms, top-notch
Inturjoven. Disability and Rehabilitation, amenities, historical interest, or
If you backpack in remote publishes a useful booklet a combination of these.
mountain areas, you can stay in
refugios, which are shelters with
basic kitchens and dormitories.
The refugios are marked on all
good large-scale maps of the
mountains and national parks.
They are administered by the
Federación Andaluza de
Montañismo.

Camping
There are more than 110 camp
sites across the region of
Andalucía, many of them along
the coasts but there are also
some outside the major cities Elegantly furnished room at the Marbella Club Hotel (see p218)(see p218)(

216  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Alfonso XIII €€€ Price Guide
Seville Historic Map 6 D5 Prices are based on one night's stay in
El Arenal C/San Fernando 2, 41004 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Tel 954 91 70 00
Petit Palace Canalejas € ∑ hotel-alfonsoxiii-seville.com € under €120
Boutique Map 5 B3 A regal hotel featuring spectacular €€ €120 to 200
Canalejas 2, 41001 Mudéjar architecture and opulent €€€ over €200
Tel 954 22 64 00 furnishings. There’s a fitness centre,
∑ en.petitpalacecanalejassevilla.com sauna and an outdoor swimming Alcoba del Rey de Sevilla €€
Housed in a pretty 20th-century pool. In the evening visitors can Boutique Map 2 D4
building, this hotel has modern enjoy a cocktail on the terrace. C/Becquer 9, 41002
rooms at reasonable rates. Rooms Tel 954 91 58 00
have hydromassage showers, DK Choice ∑ alcobadelrey.com
and some have small balconies. Intricate glassware, colourful tiles
Casa Numero Siete €€€ and silk cushions define the
Taberna del Alabardero €€ Boutique Map 6 E3 decor of this charming hotel.
Historic Map 5 B3 C/Virgenes 7, 41004 Rooftop solarium with Jacuzzi.
C/Zaragoza 20, 41001 Tel 954 22 15 81
Tel 954 502 721 ∑ casanumero7.com Hotel Boutique Casa Romana €€
∑ tabernadelalabardero.es Discover sheer luxury in a 19th- Boutique Map 1 C5
Rooms here boast antiques and century mansion right in the C/Trajano 5, 41002
stylish fabrics. The cosy central heart of Seville’s evocative old Tel 954 91 51 70
patio has a stained-glass roof. quarter. The decor and furnish- ∑ hotelcasaromana.com
The restaurant serves excellent ings at this small but immaculate Roman and Andalucían themes
Andalucían cuisine. boutique guesthouse include merge in this imaginative hotel.
antiques and family heirlooms. The elegant rooms border a
Gran Melia Colon €€€ Relax in the elegant lounge. bright central patio. The rooftop
Luxury Map 5 B3 terrace has a large Jacuzzi.
C/Canalejas 1, 41001
Tel 954 50 55 99 Las Casas del Rey de Baeza €€€
∑ solmelia.com Boutique Map 6 E2 Triana
Expect elegant rooms and Plaza Jesús de la Redención 2, 41003 Ribera de Triana Hotel €€
attentive service at this centrally Tel 954 56 14 96 Luxury Map 3 A1
located hotel. The rooftop terrace ∑ hospes.com Plaza Chapina, 41010
has a hot tub and solarium. This hotel has chic bedrooms. Tel 954 26 80 00
Popular with celebrities. The rooftop pool offers a respite ∑ hotelriberadetriana.com
from the hot Seville summer. This upmarket hotel with modern
Lovely open-air patio and spa. decor, a rooftop pool and terrace
Santa Cruz & Parque offers stunning city views, and
María Luisa EME Catedral Hotel €€€ first-rate technological amenities.
Luxury Map 6 D4
Hispano Luz Confort € C/Alemanes 27, 41004
B&B Map 6 D5 Tel 954 56 00 00 La Cartuja
C/Miguel Mañara 4, 41004 ∑ emecatedralhotel.com Eurostars Torre Sevilla €€€
Tel 955 63 80 79 Four restaurants, a cocktail bar, Luxury Map 1 5A
Close to the Real Alcázar, a panoramic terrace, pool and spa Gonzalo Jiménez Quesada, 2, Torre
this modern hotel has well- are the key attractions at this Sevilla, Isla de la Cartuja, 41092
equipped rooms, some with superb hotel. In a great location, Tel 954 46 06 60
balconies. Bike rental is available. it offers unparalleled views. ∑ eurostarshotels.com
The hotel in this soaring tower,
La Casa del Maestro €€ La Macarena the tallest building in Andalucía,
Historic Map 6 E2 offers stunning views. The
C/Niño Ricardo 5, 41003 Patio de la Alameda € tastefully decorated, comfortable
Tel 954 50 00 07 B&B Map 2 D3 rooms have spacious bathrooms.
∑ lacasadelmaestro.com Alameda de Hercules,
Centred on a traditional plant- 56, 41002
filled patio, this delightful yellow- Tel 954 90 49 99
ochre guesthouse has spacious, ∑ patiodelaalemeda.
vibrantly decorated rooms and a com
rooftop terrace with a solarium. Rooms at this
delightful B&B are
Hotel Inglaterra €€ stylishly furnished
Historic Map 5 C3 with details such
Plaza Nueva 7, 41001 as mosaic tiled bath-
Tel 954 22 49 70 rooms. Family rooms
∑ hotelinglaterra.es (up to four people)
This chic hotel opposite the town are available. The
hall has superb antique furnish- terrace has a bar with
ings and Andalucían tiles. Enjoy a views of the historic
cocktail in the rooftop terrace bar. surroundings. Comfortable furnishings at Casa Numero Siete, Seville

WHERE T O ST A Y  217

CAZALLA DE LA SIERRA:
Huelva and Sevilla Las Navezuelas Map B2 €
Inn
ALCALÁ DE GUADAÍRA: Hotel Ctra Cazalla-Ed A-432, km 43.3
Oromana € Pedrosa, 41370
Historic Map B3 Tel 954 88 47 64
Avda de Portugal, 41500 ∑ lasnavezuelas.com
Tel 955 68 64 00 A family-run cortijo (farmhouse),
∑ hoteloromana.com in the Sierra del Norte mountains,
Set in a converted 1920s with simple rooms and home-
mansion in the Oromana made meals. The sun terrace has
Nature Reserve, this atmospheric a pool (summer only) and garden.
and friendly hotel has a great on-
site restaurant. Pets allowed. EL ROCÍO: Complejo
Pequeño Rocio €€ Stylish interiors at Hospes Palacio de Bailio
DK Choice Inn Map B3 in Córdoba
Avenida de la Canaliega s/n, 21750
ARACENA: Finca Buen Vino €€ Tel 959 44 20 40 CAZORLA: Molino de la Farraga €
B&B Map B2 ∑ complejopequenorocio.es/hotel Historic Map E2
Carretera N-433, km 95 Los This lovely complex has 22 rooms, Camino de la Hoz, 23470
Marines, 21208 centered around a garden and Tel 953 72 12 49
Tel 959 12 40 34 pool. Rooms have a sitting area ∑ molinolafarraga.com
∑ fincabuenvino.com with a sofa, TV and fridge. Free A restored 200-year-old mill with
This hilltop guesthouse, set Wi-Fi in public areas. a farm and a vegetable garden. The
amid citrus and olive groves rooms have traditional decor.
bordering a lovely natural park, is ISLA CRISTINA: Sensimar Isla There is a large botanical garden
famed for its cuisine and cookery Cristina Palace €€€ in which the distant murmur of
courses. All rooms are spacious Luxury Map A3 the Cerezuelo river can be heard.
and individually furnished. Avenida del Parque s/n, 21420
Self-catering cottages are also Tel 959 34 44 99 CÓRDOBA: Hotel Maestre €
available. Expect great service. ∑ hotelsensimarislacristina.com Inn Map C2
At this deluxe beachside hotel C/Romero Barros 4–6, 14003
and spa all rooms have private Tel 957 47 24 10
ARACENA: Hotel Convento balconies overlooking the pool ∑ hotelmaestre.com
Aracena €€ or ocean. Adults only. This charming, traditional hotel
Boutique Map B2 has a central flower-filled patio,
C/Jesus y Maria 19, 21200 MAZAGÓN: Parador and clean, simple rooms. Free Wi-Fi.
Tel 959 12 68 99 de Mazagón €€€
∑ hotelconventoaracena.es Luxury Map A3 CÓRDOBA: Hospedería
Strategically located by the castle Ctra San Juan-Matalascañas del Atalia €€
of Aracena, this restored 17th- km 31, 21130 Boutique Map C2
century convent is surrounded by Tel 959 53 63 00 C/Buen Pastor 19, 14003
peaceful gardens and cloisters. It ∑ parador.es Tel 957 49 66 59
has an outdoor pool and a spa. Well-appointed parador in a ∑ hospederiadelatalia.com
stunning location overlooking In the heart of the Jewish
CARMONA: Alcazar de la Reina € Mazagón beach on the Atlantic Quarter, this hotel has individually
Historic Map B2 Coast. The indoor and outdoor decorated rooms, combining chic,
C/Hermana Concepción Orellana 2, pools are open all year round. modern styles with Moorish tiles
41410 on the walls. There is a rooftop
Tel 954 19 62 00 SANLÚCAR LA MAYOR: Exe Gran terrace with views of the Mezquita.
∑ alcazar-reina.es Hotel Solucar €
This stately hotel has elegant, large Luxury Map B2 CÓRDOBA: Eurostars Palace €€€
rooms with lovely views. There is Ctra Nacional Sevilla-Huelva A-472 Luxury Map C2
a welcoming interior courtyard s/n, 41800 Paseo de la Victoria s/n, 14004
as well as an outdoor pool. Tel 955 70 34 08 Tel 957 76 04 52
∑ exegranhotelsolucar.com ∑ eurostarshotels.com
DK Choice This comfortable hotel has a Just outside the historic centre
seasonal outdoor pool and a
of Córdoba, this hotel has stylish
CARMONA: Parador beautiful courtyard. rooms equipped with a sofa,
de Carmona €€ minibar, satellite TV and spa tub.
Luxury Map B2
C/Alcazar s/n, 41410 CÓRDOBA: Hospes Palacio
Tel 954 14 10 10 Córdoba and Jaén de Bailio €€€
∑ parador.es Boutique Map C2
This is a classic Spanish parador. BAEZA: Hotel Fuentenueva € C/Ramirez de las Casas Deza 10–12,
Originally a Moorish fortress, it Historic Map E2 14001
has a stunning hilltop location C/Carmen 15, 23440 Tel 957 49 89 93
and majestic interiors decorated Tel 953 74 31 00 ∑ hospes.com
with tapestries and antiques. ∑ fuentenueva.com Magnificent 17th-century palace
The rooms are comfortable All rooms at this hotel located with beautiful gardens. Many of
and stylish. Relax in the outdoor in a 16th-century building have the original features have been
pool (summer only). hydromassage baths. There is a preserved and walls are adorned
rooftop terrace and pool. with original artwork and frescos.
For more information on types of hotels see pp212–15

218  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

JAÉN: Parador de Jaén €€ DK Choice
Luxury Map D2
Castillo de Santa Catalina s/n GRAZALEMA:
Tel 953 23 00 00 Hotel Fuerte Grazalema €
∑ parador.es Inn Map C3
Hilltop parador set in an 18th- Baldio de los Alamillos, Ctra
century castle with traditional A-372, km 53, 11610
Arabic decor and rooms that Tel 956 13 30 00
offer panoramic views. ∑ fuertehoteles.com
A comfortable rural hotel
LINARES: Hotel Baviera € located inside the wooded
Boutique Map E2 Grazalema Nature Reserve. Ideal
La Virgen 25, 23700 for walking, cycling or horse-
Tel 953 60 71 15 riding breaks. Good children's
∑ hotelbavieraandalucia.es facilities. The on-site restaurant
This pleasant hotel has charming serves regional dishes.
rooms. Some of the bathrooms View from the roof terrace at Casa Grande,
include a hydromassage tub. Arcos de la Frontera
MÁLAGA: Salles Hotel €€
PALMA DEL RÍO: Monasterio CÁDIZ: Hotel Playa Victoria €€ Luxury Map D3
de San Francisco € Boutique Map B4 C/Marmoles 6, 29007
Historic Map C2 Glorieta Ingeniero La Cierva 4, 11010 Tel 952 07 02 16
Avda del Pío XII 35, 14700 Tel 956 20 51 00 ∑ salleshotels.com
Tel 957 71 01 83 ∑ palafoxhoteles.com Well-appointed hotel in the heart
∑ intergrouphoteles.com Eco-friendly seafront hotel with of Málaga with superb city views.
A romantic hotel set in a restored avant-garde interior furnishings. Visitors can enjoy the rooftop
15th-century monastery. Rooms The seasonal outdoor pool has pool in summer. Free Wi-Fi.
are spacious and clean and direct access to the beach.
organic meals are available. MARBELLA: Hotel Fuerte
CAÑOS DE MECA: La Breña €€ Marbella €€€
ÚBEDA: Zenit El Postigo € Boutique Map B4 Luxury Map C4
Inn Map E2 Avda Trafalgar 4, 11149 C/El Fuerte, 29602
C/Postigo 5, 23400 Tel 956 4373 68 Tel 952 86 15 00
Tel 953 75 00 00 ∑ en.hotelbrena.com ∑ fuertehoteles.com
∑ elpostigo.zenithoteles.com Rooms are simple but spacious, Marbella’s very first purpose-
Modern hotel with fireplace, pool and some have sea views. A built luxury hotel features lush
and garden. Rooms are spacious lovely terrace overlooks the gardens and two outdoor pools
and comfortable. There is a social ocean. Excellent beach location. and a fitness centre with an
lounge with a fireplace for chilly indoor pool. Close to the beach.
winter nights. Free Wi-Fi. CASTELLAR DE LA FRONTERA:
Casa Convento La Almoraima € MARBELLA: Marbella
ZUHEROS: Zuhayra € Historic Map C4 Club Hotel €€€
Inn Map D2 Ctra. Algeciras-Ronda s/n, Finca la Luxury Map C4
C/Mirador 10, 14870 Almoraima, 11350 Bulevar Príncipe Alfonso von
Tel 957 69 46 93 Tel 956 69 30 02 Hohenlohe, 29600
∑ zercahoteles.com ∑ laalmoraimahotel.com Tel 952 82 22 11
This friendly hotel has neat A former monastery has been ∑ marbellaclub.com
rooms with modern amenities converted into a modern hotel A deluxe beachside hotel with
and lovely views of the with antique furnishings and an lush gardens, swimming pools,
surrouding natural beauty. inner patio. world-class golf course and spa.
The Kids’ Club offers a music room,
CORTES DE LA FRONTERA: dance studio, an enchanted forest
Casa Rural Ahora € and other forms of entertainment.
Cádiz and Málaga Inn Map C3
Bda El Colmenar 29490 MIJAS: Hotel Hacienda
Tel 952 15 30 46 Puerta del Sol €
DK Choice ∑ casaruralahora.com Luxury Map C3
A rural hideaway with chic rustic
Ctra Fuengirola-Mijas km 4, 29650
ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA: furnishings and decor nestled in Tel 952 48 64 00
Casa Grande € a valley beside a stream. There is ∑ hhpuertadelsol.es/en
Historic Map B3 a wellness centre with a spa. Stylish hotel with an exceptional
C/Maldonaldo 10, 11360 range of sports amenities, and
Tel 956 70 39 30 GIBRALTAR: Rock Hotel €€ both covered and open-air pools.
∑ lacasagrande.net Historic Map C4 It has family rooms.
A whitewashed 18th-century 3 Europe Road, Gibraltar
mansion with a hilltop location, Tel +350 20 07 30 00 NERJA: El Carabeo €€
offering great views of the ∑ rockhotelgibraltar.com Boutique Map D3
Andalucían countryside below. A 70-year-old colonial-style C/Hernando de Carabeo 34, 29780
Each room has unique decor cliffside hotel with a nostalgic Tel 952 52 54 44
with antique furnishings. Family aura and stately guest rooms. ∑ hotelcarabeo.com
rooms are available here. Good Enjoy outstanding views of the A lovely British-owned hotel.
breakfast spread. Bay and Straits of Gibraltar as Rooms are furnished with
well as the Spanish mainland. antiques and original artworks.
Key to Price Guide see p216

WHERE T O ST A Y  219

OJÉN: Posada del Angel €
Inn Map C3
C/Mesones 21, 29610
Tel 952 88 18 08
∑ laposadadelangel.net
This charming Andalucían hotel
with Moorish touches features
individually decorated rooms.
Enjoy breakfast on the patio.
PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA:
Monasterio de San Miguel €
Historic Map B3
C/Virgen de los Milagros 27, 11500 Light and spacious suite at La Bobadilla, Loja
Tel 956 54 04 40
∑ monasteriosanmiguelhotel.com MECINA BOMBARÓN: Casas
A former Capuchin monastery Granada and Almería Rurales Benarum €
with many original features. Rooms B&B Map E3
are large and simply furnished. ALMERÍA: Hotel Catedral € Av. Jose Antonio Bravo 60, 18450
There is a pleasant courtyard. Historic Map F3 Tel 958 85 11 49
Plaza de la Catedral 8, 04002 ∑ benarum.com
RINCÓN DE LA VICTORIA: Tel 950 27 81 78 Plush bungalows in the mountains
Molino de Santillan €€ ∑ hotelcatedral.net of Alpujarra with all modern
Historic Map D3 A converted manor house comforts. Facilities include
Ctra de Macharaviaya km 3, 29730 with spacious and comfortable Jacuzzis and Finnish saunas.
Tel 952 40 09 49 rooms. There are great views
∑ centrosantillan.com from the roof terrace. MOJÁCAR: Parador
This cosy converted former finca de Mojácar €€
is set high on a hilltop. It features GRANADA: Posada del Toro € Luxury Map F3
a library, yoga rooms, tennis Inn Map D3 Paseo del Mediterráneo 339, 04638
court, saltwater pool, gardens C/Elvira 25, 18010 Tel 950 47 82 50
and nature trails. Tel 958 22 73 33 ∑ parador.es
∑ posadadeltoro.com Dazzling white beachside
RONDA: Parador de Ronda €€€ A renovated 19th-century inn parador with comfortable rooms
Historic Map C3 that blends old charm and modern that offer Mediterranean views.
Plaza España, 29400 comforts. Wi-Fi in all rooms.
Tel 952 87 75 00 MONACHIL: La Almunia
∑ parador.es GRANADA: Casa 1800 €€€ del Valle €€€
Located at the edge of the iconic Boutique Map D3 Boutique Map E3
gorge of Ronda, this parador has C/Benalua 11, 18010 Camino de la Umbria, 18193
bright, stylish rooms – top floor Tel 958 21 07 00 Tel 958 30 80 10
suites have fine views – and a ∑ hotelcasa1800granada.com ∑ laalmuniadelvalle.com
huge garden. Romantic hotel in a converted Friendly boutique hotel located
17th-century mansion. The high in the Sierra Nevada. Lovely
SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA: façade features the original gardens and pool (summer only).
Hotel Barrameda € Renaissance-style murals.
Boutique Map B3 ORGIVA: Taray Botánico €
Ancha 10, 11540 DK Choice B&B Map E3
Tel 956 38 58 78 Ctra A-348 Tablete-Abuñol km 18, 18400
∑ hotelbarrameda.com GRANADA: Parador Tel 958 78 45 25
Smart hotel overlooking plaza de Granada €€€ ∑ hoteltaray.com
Cabildo. Some of the modern Luxury Map D3 A lovely whitewashed rural hotel
rooms have private terraces. C/Real de la Alhambra, 18009 with an olive and orange tree-
Tel 958 22 14 40 filled garden. Free parking.
TARIFA: Hurricane Hotel €€ ∑ parador.es
Boutique Map B4 Lovingly restored from an old PECHINA: Hotel Balneario de
Ctra N-340 Km 78, 11380 convent, this parador enjoys Sierra Alhamilla €
Tel 956 68 49 19 an incomparable location right Historic Map F3
∑ hotelhurricane.com inside the grounds of the C/Los Baños s/n, 04259
Laidback hotel with lush gardens, impressive Alhambra Palace. Tel 950 31 74 13
two pools and health facilities Elegantly appointed rooms. ∑ balneariosierraalhamilla.es
such as gym, sauna and massage Book ahead. This well-restored 18th-century
services. Great on-site restaurant. spa hotel in the Sierra Alhamilla
offers spa treatments.
VEJER DE LA FRONTERA: LOJA: La Bobadilla €€€
La Casa del Califa €€ Luxury Map D3 SAN JOSÉ: Cortijo el Sotillo €€
Boutique Map B4 Ctra Salinas-Villanueva de Tapia Historic Map F3
Plaza de España, 16 11150 (A-333), km 65.5, 18300 Ctra San Jose, 04118
Tel 956 44 77 30 Tel 958 32 18 61 Tel 950 61 11 00
∑ califavejer.com ∑ barcelolabobadilla.com ∑ cortijoelsotillo.es
An intimate and charming hotel All rooms and suites have unique Farmhouse set in Cabo de Gata
with individually decorated decor at this hotel in a quiet Natural Park. Enjoy the quiet of
rooms. Excellent service. location, perfect for relaxation. the nearby unspoilt beaches.
For more information on types of hotels see pp212–15

220  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK


One of the joys of eating out in this region fresh, home-cooked food. The places to
is the sheer sociability of the Andalucíans. eat listed on pages 228–37 have been
Family and friends, often with children in tow, selected for their excellent cuisine and
start early with tapas, and usually continue conviviality. There is a guide to regional
eating until after midnight. The food has a food on pages 222–3, and to tapas, with a
regional bias – the best restaurants have glossary on pages 224–5. Pages 226–7
grown from taverns and tapas bars serving illustrate typical drinks of the region.


Inland, rich stews with hams merienda (tea): pastries and
and sausages, and game, pork, cakes with coffee, tea or juice.
lamb and chicken dishes are Tapas bars become busy
served. Vegetables and salads by 8:30pm. La cena (supper)
are excellent, as is Andalucía’s is eaten from about 9pm,
signature dish, gazpacho, a cold although some places begin
soup made from fresh toma- service earlier for tourists.
toes, cucumber and peppers. Spaniards tend to lunch out
on weekdays and dine out at
weekends. Sunday lunch is
Meal Times usually a family affair.
In Spain, desayuno (breakfast),
The dining room of El Churrasco restaurant, is a light meal, usually consisting
Córdoba (see p232) of toasted bread with butter and How to Dress
jam and café con leche (milky Spanish people dress smartly,
coffee). A more substantial especially in city restaurants.
Andalucían Cuisine breakfast follows between 10 In the beach resorts, dress
The food of Andalucía falls and 11am – a bocadillo or is casual, although shorts at
into two categories: coastal mollete (a baguette or roll) with night are frowned upon.
and inland. Five of the region’s ham, sausage or cheese, or a
eight provinces have stretches slice of tortilla de patatas (potato
of coastline and a sixth, Seville, omelette). Churros (fried dough Reading the Menu
has a tidal river and several strips) are sold mainly from stalls The Spanish word for menu is
seaports (Cádiz, Sanlúcar, in autumn and winter. la carta. The Spanish menú
Barbate and Zahara among It is common for Andalucíans means a fixed-price menu of
them) nearby. Coastal cooking to stop in a bar for a beer or the day. The day’s specialities
includes a huge variety of fish wine with tapas around 1pm. are often chalked on a board
and shellfish. The most famous By 2 or 2:30pm offices close for or clipped to the menu. Some
fish dish is pescaíto frito (fried almuerzo (lunch), the main meal finer restaurants offer a menú
fish). Although fish is integral of the day, eaten between 2 and de degustación, which allows
to the Spanish diet, meat 3pm, followed by a siesta hour. you to sample six or seven
dishes such as veal and chops By 5:30pm or 6pm cafés, salones of the chef’s special dishes.
de té
de té
also make regular appearances de té (tea rooms) and (tea rooms) and pastelerías La carta will start with sopas
on menus across the region. (pastry shops) fill up for la (soups), ensaladas (salads),
entremeses (hors d’oeuvres),
huevos y tortillas (eggs and
omelettes) and verduras y
legumbres (vegetable dishes).
Main courses are pescados y
mariscos (fish and shellfish) and
carnes y aves (meat and poultry).
Paella and other rice dishes often
come as the first course. Follow
rice with meat, or start with
serrano ham or salad and follow
with paella. It is quite normal
to order just one or two courses
from any part of the menu.
Desserts and puddings are
grouped as postres, but fresh
fruit is the preferred choice
Traditional interior of Casa Plácidoin Santa Cruz,in Santa Cruz,in Santa Cruz Seville (see p228) for desserts in Andalucía.

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  221

Children
Children are generally very
welcome, but there are seldom
special facilities such as high
chairs or colouring sheets
available for them. Ventas, or
country restaurants, are the
exception; they often have
play areas.

Smoking
Smoking is not permitted
inside public areas, including
in restaurants, cafés and bars.
Smoking on outside terraces
is still allowed.

Wheelchair Access
Stylish dining room of the exclusive Oriza, Seville (see p229)
Since restaurants are rarely
designed for wheelchairs, you meals are usually from Ribera not include ten per cent IVA
(or hotel staff) should call to del Duero, Rioja, Navarra or (VAT), which, as a rule, is added
book and to discuss access to Penedés. A tapas bar might when the bill is totalled. Tipping
restaurant and toilets. Spanish serve Valdepeñas or La Mancha is just that, a discretionary
law requires all new-build public wines. Oloroso wines are often gratuity. The Spanish rarely tip
buildings to have wheelchair drunk as a digestif. (See also more than five per cent, often
access, so newer restaurants What to Drink pp226–7 and just rounding up the bill.
will offer easier disabled access The Land of Sherry pp34–5.) Credit cards are accepted
and facilities such as adapted in restaurants everywhere,
toilets and wheelchair space but do not expect to pay by
in dining areas. What it Costs credit card in smaller tapas
The cheapest places to eat are bars or cafés.
usually tapas bars and smaller,
Wine Choices family-run establishments (bar-
Dry sherry fino wines are restaurantes). A menú del día Recommended
Restaurants
perfect with shellfish, serrano is offered in the majority of
ham, olives, soups and first restaurants. It is usually three The restaurants featured in this
courses. Wines to accompany courses and priced well below guide have been selected for
choices from la carta. a variety of criteria including
Ordering from la their good value, food, location
carta in a restaurant and atmosphere. A wide range
can push your final of establishments has been
bill way above included – from no-frills dining
average, especially spots, down-to-earth tapas bars
if you choose pricey and restaurants specializing in
items like ibérico ham seafood to sophisticated and
and fresh seafood. stylish diners featuring tasting
If you find “bargain menus prepared by leading and
prices” for swordfish, popular Spanish chefs. Seville
hake, sole and other offers a number of tempting
fish, then it is probably options for both carnivores
frozen. Expect and vegetarians.
shellfish such as Note that establishments
lobster and large labelled DK Choice are places
prawns, and fish that have been highlighted in
such as sea bass and recognition of an exceptional
bream, to be priced feature – exquisite food, a
by weight. The bill unique menu, an inviting
(la cuenta) includes ambience, an unusual location
service charges and or simply for great value. Most
sometimes a small of these places are popular with
Outdoor tables at the popular El Modesto tapas bar in Santa cover charge. Prices locals and visitors, so be sure to
Cruz, Seville (see p228) (see p228) (see p228 on the menus do book well in advance.

222  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of Andalucía

Andalucía is vast, bordered on one side by the Mediterranean and
on the other by the Atlantic. Inland are lofty mountains, undulating
hills, endless olive groves and bright fields of sunflowers. The cuisine
is as varied as the terrain, with a huge array of seafood, meat and
game, and sun-ripened fruit and vegetables. The tapeo (tapas-bar-
hopping) is a regional institution and, around Granada, these little
morsels are still often served free with drinks. In the cities and
along the Costa de Sol, new culinary trends and international
influences have brought on a storm of fashionable gastrobars, Olives and olive oil
but in other inland areas traditional recipes still prevail.

neighbourhood. Tapas are imaginable variety of seafood,
often accompanied by a glass including cod, hake, prawns,
of chilled, dry fino sherry, or crayfish, clams, razor clams,
perhaps a cold draught beer octopus, cuttlefish, squid, sole
(una caña). Tapas were once and tuna. Almost every seaside
free, but that tradition has resort will offer pescaíto frito,
largely died out. originally a Málaga dish, made
with whatever fish is freshest
that day. In Cádiz, they are
Seafood
served in a paper cone, and
It is not surprising, given in nearby Sanlúcar you must
its extensive coastline, that not miss the sweet and juicy
Choosing from a selection of tapas southern Spain offers every langostinos (king prawns).
Jamón Ibérico Morcilla Morcilla with rice Salchichón Ibérico bellota
Tapas bellota with onion
Chorizo rosario picante
The tapeo, or tapas crawl, is
an intrinsic part of daily life in Lomo
Andalucía. Each bar is usually embuchado
known for a particular
speciality: one might be well
known for its home-made
croquetas (potato croquettes,
usually filled with ham or
cod), while another will serve
exceptional hams, and yet
another might make the best
albóndigas (meatballs) in the Selection of delicious Spanish embutidos (cured meats)
Regional Dishes and Specialities
Andalucía embodies many of the images most closely associated
with Spain – the heady rhythms of flamenco, striking white villages,
bull fighting and, of course, tapas. You can easily make a meal of
these delectable treats, and most bars have an excellent range. Don’t
miss the mouth
miss the mouthwatering hams (jamónwatering hams (jamónwatering hams (
miss the mouth ) from Jabugo
and Trevélez which are famed throughout Spain,
or the platters of freshly fried fish liberally
doused with lemon juice. An ice-cold sherry
(the word comes from Jerez, where most
sherry is produced) is deliciously refreshing
in the searing summer heat and is the most
popular tipple at southern fiestas. While pork,
particularly cured ham remains the most Gazpacho This chilled soup
appreciated local meat, duck, beef and lamb combines ripe tomatoes,
are also favourites, subtly flavoured with breadcrumbs, cucumbers, garlic,
Pomegranates aromatic bay leaves. vinegar, olive oil and peppers.

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  223



bread topped with thin slices
of tomato and drizzled with
olive oil – utterly delicious. The
hot climate is perfect for fruit
and vegetables, including
luscious peaches, papayas,
persimmons, mangoes and
oranges, as well as tomatoes,
asparagus, aubergines
(eggplants) and artichokes.
The chilled tomato soup,
gazpacho, is a classic, but
salmorejo, which is thicker
and topped with a sprinkling
Andalucían market stall displaying fresh local produce of chopped boiled eggs and
ham, is even tastier.
Meat and Game
which are raised for bull-
Pork (cerdo) is king in Andalucía. fighting but most for meat) ON THE MENU
The famous hams of Jabugo are a common sight, and one
(in the southwest) and Trevélez of the most popular local Chocos con habas Cuttlefish is
(near Granada) are among the dishes is rabo de toro (bull’s cooked with beans, white wine
finest produced in Spain, and tail). All kinds of cured meats and plenty of bay leaves.
are made with free-range, are made here, often to Pato a la Sevillana Succulent
black-footed pigs fed on a diet traditional recipes that have duck, cooked slowly with onion,
of acorns. Beef (ternera) is also remained unchanged for leeks, carrots, bay leaf and a
popular; endless fields full of centuries. In the wild inland dash of sherry, this is a speciality
glossy black bulls (some of Sierras, you will find an of Seville.
abundance of game in season, Rabo de Toro An Andalucían
along with the traditional classic, made with chunks of
country staples of lamb bull’s tail, slowly braised with
(cordero) and rabbit (conejo). vegetables, bay leaf and a dash
of sherry until tender.
Salmorejo Cordobés
Fruit and Vegetables A creamy tomato dip thickened
The undulating Andalucían with breadcrumbs.
fields and hillsides are densely Torta de Camarones Delicious
covered with beautiful olive fritters filled with tiny, whole
groves, and the best oils are shrimps from Cádiz.
graded as carefully as fine Tortilla del Sacromonte A
wines. Olive oil is liberally speciality of Granada: omelette
used in Andalucían cuisine, with brains, kidney or other
Prawns and sardines on display at and the typical southern offal, peppers and peas.
the fishmarket breakfast is toasted country














Huevos a la Flamenca Eggs Pescaíto Frito A seaside Tocino de Cielo This is a creamy
are baked in a terracotta dish favourite, this is a platter of small custard dessert with a caramel
with tomato sauce, ham and fish tossed in batter and quickly topping. Its name means
chorizo sausage. fried in olive oil. “heavenly lard”.

224  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Choosing Tapas

Tapas, sometimes called pinchos, are small snacks that
originated in Andalucía in the 19th century to accom­
pany sherry. Stemming from a bartender’s practice of
covering a glass with a saucer or tapa (cover) to keep out flies,
the custom progressed to a chunk of cheese or bread being used,
and then to a few olives being placed on a platter to accompany a drink. Mixed
Once free of charge, tapas are usually paid for nowadays, and a selection green olives
makes a delicious light meal. Choose from a range of appetizing varieties, from
cold meats to elaborately prepared hot dishes of meat, seafood or vegetables.

Patatas bravas Albóndigas (meatballs) are a
is a piquant dish hearty tapa, often served with
of fried potatoes a spicy tomato sauce.
with a spicy
red sauce.


Almendras
fritas are fried,
salted almonds.





Banderillas are
canapés skewered
on toothpicks. The
entire canapé
should be
eaten at once.
Calamares fritos are squid rings are squid rings
and tentacles which have been dusted
with flour before being deep fried Jamón serrano is
in olive oil. They are usually served salt-cured ham dried in
garnished with a piece of lemon. mountain (serrano) air.
ON THE TAPAS BAR
Aceitunas Olives Callos Tripe Chorizo diablo Chorizo served
Alcachofas Artichokes, typically Caracoles Snails in broth flamed with brandy
served pickled in vinegar Carne en salsa Meat in a Costillas Spare ribs
Almejas Clams thick tomato sauce Criadillas Bulls’ testicles
Berenjenas rebozadas Battered Champiñones Button mushrooms Croquetas Croquettes
and fried aubergines (eggplants) fried and served in a light sauce Ensaladilla Rusa “Russian salad”,
Boquerones al natural Fresh with garlic and parsley with potatoes, vegetables and
anchovies in garlic and olive oil. Chipirones a la plancha Grilled mayonnaise
Often served fried as well cuttlefish with a garlic and Gambas pil pil Spicy, garlicky fried
Buñuelos de bacalao Salted parsley sauce king prawns (shrimp)
cod fritters Chopitos Cuttlefish fried in Habas con jamón Tender broad
Cacahuetes Peanuts batter beans fried with jamón serrano
Calamares a la romana Fried Chorizo al vino Chorizo sausage Magro Pork in a paprika and
squid rings cooked in red wine tomato sauce

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  225



Tapas Bars
Even a small village will have at least one bar where the
locals go to enjoy drinks, tapas and conversation with
friends. On Sundays and holidays, favourite places are
packed with whole families enjoying the fare. In larger
towns it is customary to move from bar to bar, sampling
the specialities of each. A tapa is a single serving, whereas
a ración is two or three. Tapas are usually eaten standing
or perching on a stool at the bar rather than sitting at a
table, for which a surcharge is generally made.
Choice of tapas at a busy bar

Salpicón de
Chorizo, a popular mariscos is a
sausage flavoured luxurious cold
with paprika and salad of assorted
garlic, may be eaten fresh seafood in a
cold or fried and zesty vinaigrette.
served hot.











Gambas a la plancha is a
simple but flavourful dish of
grilled prawns (shrimp).
Tortilla española is the ubiquitous
Spanish potato omelette, often
made with onion, and served cold.
Queso manchego Pollo al ajillo consists of small pieces of
is a sheep’s-milk cheese chicken (often wings) sautéed and then
from La Mancha. simmered with a garlic-flavoured sauce.

Manitas de cerdo Pig’s trotters Pan de ajo Garlic bread Pulpo Baby octopus
Mejillones Mussels Patatas a lo pobre Potato chunks Quesos Spanish cheeses
Merluza a la romana Hake fried in sautéed with onions and red and Rabo (or cola) de toro Bull’s tail
a light batter green peppers Revueltos Scrambled eggs with
Migas Breadcrumbs, fried and Patatas alioli Potato chunks in a asparagus or mushrooms
flavoured with savoury ingredients garlic mayonnaise Salmonetes Red mullet
Montaditos Mini sandwiches Pescaíto frito Fish given a light Sardinas Sardines, fried or grilled
made with a variety of fillings dusting of flour and fried Sepia a la plancha Grilled
Morcilla Black (blood) pudding Pescaditos Small fried fish cuttlefish
Muslitos del mar Crab-meat Pimientos Fried green peppers Sesos Brains, usually lamb or calf
croquette, skewered onto a claw Pimientos rellenos Stuffed Truita de patates Catalan name
Orejas de cerdo Pig’s ears peppers, usually with tuna for tortilla española
Paella Rice dish made with meat, Pinchos morunos pork kebabs, Verdura a la plancha Grilled
fish and/or vegetables Moorish-style vegetables

226  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Andalucía

Andalucía is the third-largest of Spain’s wine regions and
produces some of the world’s best-known wines; particularly
sherry (see pp34–5). Wine is such a large part of the culture
that festivals celebrating the vendimia (grape harvest) are held
all over the region (see p40). Bars and cafés are an institution
in Andalucía, and much social life takes place over morning
coffee. Start the day with coffee at the counter in a café, have
sherry or beer at midday, wine with lunch, and finish lunch or
dinner with coffee and a copa of brandy.
Autumn grape harvest or vendimia
celebrated all over Andalucía
Fino
Fino is Andalucía’s signature drink. Ask for un
fino, or una copa de vino fino. Depending on
where you are, you may be served a dry, pale
sherry from Jerez de la Frontera (see p166), a dry
Montilla-Moriles wine from Córdoba province,
or a dry Manzanilla, a sherry from Sanlúcar de
Barrameda (see p166). You can also ask for fino
by name: for instance, Tío Pepe, a sherry from
the González Byass bodega in Jerez; Gran
Barquero, which comes from Montilla
(see p151); or Solear, a Manzanilla from
the Barbadillo bodega in Sanlúcar.
Manzanilla is the favoured drink during
the Feria de Abril in Seville (see p42).
Fino wine has a higher degree of
alcohol than table wines (around 15 per
cent). When drunk, it should have a fresh
aroma and be dry and light to the palate.
Fino from Manzanilla from Fino from It is usually served chilled, in a small-
Jerez Sanlúcar Montilla stemmed glass with a rim narrower
than its base. (Hold it by the base, not
around the middle.) However, in some rustic
Wine
bars, fino comes in a tall, straight glass known
Andalucía produces a few young white table wines, as a copita or a vasito.
notably Castillo de San Diego, Marqués de la Sierra Fino is most often drunk with first courses and
and wines from El Condado (see p133). Most table tapas, and its dry taste is a perfect accompaniment
wines – tinto (red), blanco (white) and rosado (rosé) – to dishes such as jamón serrano (see pp224–5).
come from other parts of Spain. In more up-market
establishments these tend to be Rioja, Beer
Ribera del Duero, Navarra and Penedés.
Look for the label showing the wine’s Several brands of lager beers are
denominación de origen (guarantee of brewed in Andalucía. These all come
origin and quality). Recent vintages, or in bottles, though quite a few of them
cosecha wines, are the least expensive; are available on draught, too. People
crianza and reserva wines are aged and often drink draught
more expensive. Cava, sparkling beers with tapas,
wines made by méthode champenoise, especially in
are usually from Catalonia but summer. Ask for una
Andalucían bodegas have begun caña. One very good
producing cava as well. local beer, among
Tapas bars tend to serve ordinary the best in Spain,
Valdepeñas and La Mancha wines. is Cruzcampo.
People often dilute these with some Another, which
gaseosa, a fizzy, slightly sweet may perhaps be
lemonade. The resulting mixture – more familiar to
known as tinto de verano (“summer Castillo de San non-Spaniards, Una caña de Cruzcampo in a
red wine”) – is actually very refreshing. Diego is San Miguel. cerveza bottle

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  227

Other Aperitifs and Digestifs
Anise brandy, which is often called aguardiente,
the name for any distilled spirit, can be sweet
or dry. It is drunk from breakfast (desayuno) to
late afternoon tea (la merienda) and is some-
times accompanied by little cakes, especially
during festivities. It is also drunk after dinner
as a digestif. Tinto de verano is a summer
drink of red wine with ice and gaseosa.
Sangría is a red-wine punch with fruit.
With tapas, instead of fino, try one of the
mellow apéritif wines, such as amontillado,
oloroso or palo cortado (see p35), made in
Jerez and Montilla. With your dessert try a
Anise brandy Moscatel fromatel fromatel Lepanto coñac moscatel; the best known of these is a
Mosc
Mosc
(aguardiente) Málaga from Jerez Málaga wine made from Pedro Ximénez or
muscatel grapes. Alternatively try a sweet
Coffee
“cream” sherry from Jerez. After dinner, have a
In the morning, the Spanish tend to brandy with coffee. Spanish brandy comes mainly
drink café con leche, half hot milk, half from the sherry bodegas in Jerez and is called
coffee, often served in a glass instead c c coñac in bars. Most oñac in bars. Most oñac bodegas produce at least
of a cup. Children and insomniacs three labels and price ranges, often displayed on
might prefer to have a shelves whose levels correspond to quality. A
leche manchada good middle-shelf brandy is Magno; top-shelf
instead, prepared Café con leche labels are Lepanto and Larios 1886.
with just a If you are going on, say, to a nightclub, it is
“shadow” of coffee and lots customary to switch to tall
of hot milk. Another option drinks – whisky with ice
is a cortado, which is mainly and water, gin and tonic
Café solo coffee, with a tiny amount or rum and soda. Rum is
of milk. After dinner, you made on the south coast,
should drink café solo, a black espresso-style where sugar cane is
coffee, which is served in a tiny cup, though it grown. A strawberry
sometimes comes in a short glass. flavoured gin, Puerto de
Spanish coffee is made in espresso machines Indias, made in Carmona,
from coffee beans dark-roasted (torrefacto) with has gained in popularity
a little sugar to give it a special flavour. as the preferred gin for Amontillado from Jerez, an
mixed cocktails. apéritif wine
Other Drinks
Hot Chocolate
Herbal teas or infusiones can be ordered in most
bars and cafés. Poleo-menta (mint), manzanilla Chocolate, originally from
(camomile), and tila (limeflower) are among the Mexico, was imported to
best. Zumo de naranja natural (freshly squeezed Zumo de naranja natural (freshly squeezed Zumo de naranja natural Europe by conquistadors.
orange juice) is excellent but expensive and not Tchocolatl, a bitter,
always available. Mosto is grape juice. Tap water Hot chocolate peppery drink made from
cocoa, was drunk by the
throughout Spain is safe to drink, but Andalucíans Aztec Indians during
are discerning about the taste of their religious celebrations. Nuns, living in the colonies,
water and buy it bottled from natural adapted it by adding sugar to
springs, such as Lanjarón (see p193); it the cocoa, creating a sweeter
can be bought either sin gas (still) or drink more acceptable to
con gas (bubbly). Fresh goat’s milk is European tastes. During the
also available in most villages. 16th century, chocolate
became increasingly popular.
Spain had a monopoly on
the export of cocoa beans
and the “formula” for
chocolate was a state secret
for over a century. In the
1830s, the English writer,
Richard Ford, described
chocolate as “for the Spanish
what tea is for the English”. For Indian making
Mineral water Camomile tea many Spaniards this is still the case. tchocolatl
from Lanjarón Fresh orange juice (manzanilla)

228  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

meatballs with mint) or pastel de Price Guide
Seville queso, beicon y alcauciles (cheese, Prices categories include a three-course
El Arenal bacon and artichoke pie) at this evening meal for one including a half
bottle of house wine and all extra charges.
renovated 19th-century mansion.
Bodeguita Casablanca € € under €25
Traditional Map 5 C5 Petit Comité €€ €€ €25 to 45
C/Adolfo Rodriguez Jurado 12, 41002 Traditional Map 5 C5 €€€ over €45
Tel 954 22 41 14 Closed Sat eve, Calle Dos de Mayo 30, 41001
Sun Tel 954 22 95 95 Closed Mon, Albarama €€
Traditional family-run tapas bar Tue lunch Fusion Map 5 C3
with no-frills decor of tiles and This cosy restaurant with eclectic Plaza de San Francisco 5, 41004
barrel tables. Very popular with decor serves creative cuisine. The Tel 954 22 97 84
regular clientèle. risotto here is excellent, or try the This stylish but casual gastro-bar
cochinillo confitado con manzana with a commanding plaza
La Brunilda Tapas € y cebollitas francesas (roast piglet location serves delicious,
Modern Map 5 B3 with caramelised apple and French innovative dishes, such as
C/ Galera 5, 41001 shallots). Reservations are highly hamburguesa de atún con tartar
Tel 954 22 04 81 Closed Sun eve, recommended. de aguacate (tuna burger with
Mon avocado tartar sauce).
Bright, modern bar with excellent DK Choice
tapas. Try the solomillo de buey y Becerrita €€
patatas al tomillo (ox sirloin with Taberna del Alabardero €€ Fine Dining Map 6 F3
thyme potatoes). Traditional Map 5 B3 C/ Recaredo 9, 41004
C/ Zaragoza 20, 41001 Tel 954 41 20 57 Closed Sun eve
El Aguador de Velazquez €€ Tel 954 50 27 21 An intimate restaurant offering
Fusion Map 5 C3 Savour a flavoursome meal in gourmet creations. Good
C/ Albareda 14, 41001 this beautiful eating spot set selection of meat, fish and
Tel 954 22 47 20 in an old, refurbished mansion, seafood and a great wine list.
Tucked away on a backstreet, which is also home to a culinary
El Aguador is a delight. The menu school. Tuck into one of the Casa Plácido €€
ranges from regional favourites popular dishes, or try their menu Traditional Map 6 E4
to adaptations of Asian and de degustación (tasting menu) Mesón del Moro 5, 41004
Mexican dishes. for best value. Tel 954 56 39 71
Small tapas bar decorated with
El Burladero €€ traditional tiles, bullfight posters
Fine Dining Map 5 B3 and hanging hams. Sample fino
C/ Canalejas 1, 41001 Santa Cruz & Parque from the barrel and excellent
Tel 954 50 55 99 María Luisa tortillas (potato omelettes).
Set inside the 19th-century Hotel
Gran Melía Colón, with bull- El Modesto € Casa Robles €€
fighting memorabilia and a varied Traditional Map 6 E4 Seafood Map 6 D4
menu. Try the cola de toro (oxtail) C/ Cano y Cueto 5 (Plaza de la C/ Álvarez Quintero 58, 41004
in eight different ways. Carne), 41004 Tel 954 21 31 50
Tel 954 41 68 11 Prize-winning restaurant adorned
Enrique Becerra €€ A classic establishment with with statues and coloured tiles.
Historic Map 5 C4 tables overlooking Jardines de Great fish and shellfish selection,
C/ Gamazo 2, 41001 Murillo. Try the delicious home- plus an impressive wine list. Don't
Tel 954 21 30 49 Closed Sun made paellas or gambas al ajillo miss the home-made desserts.
Sample delicious albóndigas de (shrimp cooked in oil with garlic
cordero a la yerbabuena (lamb and chilli peppers). Corral del Agua €€
Traditional Map 6 D5
Callejón del Agua 6, 41004
Tel 954 22 48 41 Closed Sun
Cool patio dining and two air-
conditioned dining rooms with
vibrant decor feature antiques
and paintings, close to the Real
Alcázar gardens. Try the menu del
dia (daily menu) for best value.
Doña Elvira €€
Regional Map 6 D5
Plaza de Doña Elvira 6, 41004
Tel 954 22 73 88
With links to the Don Juan
legend, this traditional Sevillian
restaurant offers dining indoors
or al fresco under shady trees. It
serves great innovative salads,
Spacious dining area at Casa Robles, Seville paella, seafood and meat dishes.

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  229

San Marco €€ La Macarena
Italian Map 6 E4 Contenedor €€
Mesón del Moro 6, 41004 Market-to-Table Map 2 E4
Tel 954 21 43 90 C/ San Luis 50, 41003
A uniquely atmospheric Tel 954 91 63 33
restaurant located in the old Top-value eating spot serving
Arab Baths. Come here for first- traditional dishes using fresh
rate Italian pasta dishes. One of market produce. Good service.
three branches in the city.
Eslava €€
El Traga €€ Seafood/Regional Map 1 C4
Traditional Map 6 E3 C/ Eslava 3, 41002
Calle Aguilas 6, 41004 Tel 954 90 65 68 Closed Sun eve,
Tel 854 52 14 94 Mon
Modern tapas bar, which serves A no-frills, popular restaurant
contemporary Andalucían cuisine. featuring creative Andalucían
Try the tuna ceviche and the lamb cuisine. Great seafood and salads,
shank with truffled pumpkin and an inventive choice of tapas.
A rich selection of tapas on offer at fusion puree and red cabbage. Be sure
restaurant Oriza, Seville to order the deconstructed Triana
cheesecake. Good wine selection.
Donaire Azabache €€ Cervecería la Gamba Blanca €
Traditional Map 6 D4 DK Choice Traditional Map 3 A3
Calle Santo Tomás 11, 41004 C/ Febo 20, 41010
Tel 954 22 47 02 Closed Sun eve Vinería San Telmo €€ Tel 954 28 29 40 Closed Sun eve
Close to the Archivo de Indias, Fusion Map 6 E4 This tapas bar with traditional
this restaurant offers an array of Paseo Catalina de Ribera 4, 41004 decor serves several seafood
Andalucían dishes in a pleasant Tel 954 41 06 00 specialities, as well as meat,
setting. The rooftop terrace offers A charming establishment with cheese and vegetable dishes.
wonderful views of the city centre. tables on a pleasant square.
Innovative twists to regional Gastro Bar María Trifulca €
Hard Rock Café €€ favourites will delight, such as Seafood Map 3 A2
Fine Dining Map 6 D5 trigo cremoso con boletus y aceite Plaza Del Altozano, 1, 41010
Calle San Fernando 3, 41004 de trufa (creamy bulghur risotto Tel 681 20 04 00
Tel 954 22 01 26 with boletus mushrooms and The views are incredible from this
Sample American cuisine in this truffle oil), but make sure you tower, which was once a maritime
restaurant, surrounded by the leave room for the fabulous station. Book a table on the rooftop
memorabilia of famous musicians. home-made desserts. terrace and try one of the rice
dishes with langoustine and
Mama Bistro €€ Scarlet shrimp.
Fusion Map 6 D4 San Fernando €€€
Calle Mateos Gago 9 B, 41004 Fine Dining Map 6 D5 Vega 10 €
Tel 954 22 73 09 Closed Tue, C/ San Fernando 2, 41004 Market-to-Table Map 3 B3
Wed lunch Tel 954 91 70 44 C/ Rosario Vega 10, 41010
This modern bistro with traditional A first-rate restaurant inside the Tel 954 23 77 48 Closed Sun
roots has good vegetarian options. Alfonso XIII Hotel. Try the truffle Offering a seasonal choice of
Reservations required. and wild mushroom risotto or creative dishes made with fresh
go for the delicious solomillo ingredients, this restaurant also
Oriza €€ (beef) Wellington. has a daily-changing tapas menu.
Fusion Map 3 C3
C/ San Fernando 41, 41004
Tel 954 22 72 54 Closed Sun eve
Avant-garde cuisine based on
the best products and local
flavours, set in an early 20th-
century mansion. Sample the
superb bacalao (salted cod) and
merluza (hake). Also on offer are
great meat dishes and desserts.
La Quinta Braseria €€
Historic Map 6 E2
Plaza Padre Jeronimo de
Cordoba 11, 41004
Tel 954 60 00 16 Closed Sun eve,
Mon
Elegant restaurant with excellent
choices. Start with the croquetas
de pollo y trufa negra (chicken and
black truffle croquettes) or the
tartare, followed by one of the
juicy grilled meat selections.
Book in advance. Elegant place settings at Taberna del Alabardero, Seville
For more information on types of restaurants see p221

230  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Abades Triana €€€ CARMONA: Goya €
Seafood Map 3 B3 Traditional Map B2
C/ Betis 69, 41010 C/ Prim 2, 41410
Tel 954 28 64 59 Tel 954 14 30 60
Enjoy superb international and Unassuming Sevillian eating spot
Mediterranean cuisine at this off the city’s main square. Try the
riverside eatery with pretty views. baked lamb. The tapas bar does
good tortillas.
CARMONA: El Molino de
Huelva and Sevilla la Romera €€
Historic Map B2
ALMONTE: El Tamborilero € C/ Sor Angela de la Cruz 8, 41410
Market-to-Table Map B3 Tel 954 14 20 00 Closed Mon
C/ Unamuno 15, 21730 Converted from a 16th-century
Tel 959 40 69 55 Closed Sun; 1–15 Moorish mill and granary, this
Jul evocative restaurant specializes
An atmospheric former bodega in delicious regional dishes.
(wine cellar) with traditional
decor and a chef who invites you CARMONA: Parador Alcázar
into the kitchen to choose from del Rey Don Pedro €€ Appetizing tapas at El Molino de
their selections of the day. Regional Map B2 la Romera, Carmona
C/ del Alcázar s/n, 41410
GERENA: Casa Salvi Tapas
DK Choice Tel 954 14 10 10 Regional/Fusion Map B2 €
Chic parador restaurant with a
ALMONTE: Aires de Doñana vaulted, antique-furnished dining Miguel de Cervantes 46, 41860
(La Choza del Rocío) €€ room. First-rate regional dishes Tel 955 78 32 72
Regional Map B3 use fresh market produce. Choose from a vast selection of
Avda de la Canaliega 1, 21730 tapas and raciones and enjoy
Tel 959 44 22 89 Closed Mon CARMONA: La Yedra €€ your meal in the shady plaza or
A converted choza (thatched Traditional Map B2 one of the charming dining
hut), this beautifully decorated Calle General Freire 6, 41410 rooms. Superb value.
restaurant enjoys splendid Tel 954 14 45 25 Closed Sun eve,
terrace views across the Doñana Mon HUELVA: Azabache €€
parkland’s woods, reeds and A romantic restaurant with a Traditional Map A3
waterways. Specialities include charming courtyard. The excellent Calle Vazquez Lopez 22, 21001
revuelto marismeño (scrambled Mediterranean cuisine is meticu- Tel 959 25 75 28 Closed Sat eve,
eggs with local herbs) and lously prepared. Some dishes are Sun
cabrito lechal (suckling kid). modern takes on regional classics. This restaurant features a varied
Be sure to try the exquisite menu based on top-quality,
homemade desserts. ingredients. It serves traditional
BORMUJOS: La Choza cuisine as well as innovative
de Manuela € EL ROCÍO: Restaurante versions of local dishes. Excellent
Grill Map B2 Toruño € seafood and good options for
Calle Menendez Pidal 2, 41930 Regional Map B3 vegetarians. Extensive wine list.
Tel 959 72 60 92 Closed Mon Plaza Acebuchal 22, 21750
A complex of thatched-roof Tel 959 44 24 22 HUELVA: Las Meigas €€
huts and terraces, this is the Inviting restaurant with terrace Seafood Map A3
go-to place for excellent, good- boasting excellent views. Try the Avda Guatemala 44, 21003
value grilled meats and fish berenjenas gratinadas (aubergine Tel 959 27 19 58 Closed Sun
served in generous portions gratin), or one of the rice dishes. Top-notch restaurant serving
fresh Atlantic seafood. Try the
scrumptious pulpo a la gallega
con cachelos (Galician-style
octopus with sliced potato).
HUELVA: El Portichuelo €€
Regional Map A3
C/ Vázquez López 15, 21001
Tel 959 24 57 68
Unpretentious and centrally
located, El Portichuelo dishes out
traditional Andalucían fare made
from the freshest market produce.
Warm and friendly service.
HUELVA: Taberna La Botánico €€
Seafood Map A3
Avenida Andalucía 5, 21459
Tel 959 39 95 61 Closed Sun
This restaurant is known for its
freshly caught fish and seafood,
Bright and inviting dining room at El Tamborilero, Almonte which is cooked to perfection. The
Key to Price Guide see p228

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  231

fresh tomato and mozarella salad
is extremely flavourful. Attentive
staff and good value for money.
ISLA CRISTINA: Casa Rufino €€
Seafood Map A3
Avda de la Playa s/n, 21410
Tel 959 33 08 10 Closed Jan
A beachside haven for seafood
lovers, serving a variety of fresh
fish. Try the rape en salsa de pasas
(angler fish in raisin sauce).
JABUGO: Meson Cinco Jotas €€
Traditional Map A2
Ctra San Juan del Puerto, 21290
Tel 959 12 10 71
Unpretentious eating joint in
the birthplace of Spain’s greatest
jamón (ham). Sample the home- Paintings of landscapes decorating the walls of the dining room at Casa Juanito, Baeza
cured jabugo and cod with
prawns and olives. CÓRDOBA: Horno San Luis €
Córdoba and Jaén Market-to-Table Map C2
LA RINCONADA: El Pela € Calle Cardenal Gonzalez, 14003
Traditional Map B2 BAEZA: Casa Juanito €€ Tel 665 05 37 83
Plaza de Rodriguez Montes 2, 41300 Regional Map E2 Housed in a historic panaderia
Tel 955 79 70 39 Closed Wed Av del Alcalde Puché Pardo 57, 23440 (bread bakery), this two-storey
Simple, no-frills Sevillian Tel 953 74 00 40 restaurant serves innovative and
restaurant where breakfast is This is a cozy family-run eatery. creative dishes. In the evening, it
served with delicious pan prieto de Olive oil-based dishes include turns into a cocktail bar.
la Algaba (local speciality bread). cabrito con habas (young goat
Warm and friendly service. with broad beans). Fabulous CÓRDOBA: Taberna Sociedad
home-made desserts. de Plateros €
MATALASCAÑAS: Los Pepes €€ Traditional Map C2
Seafood Map A3 DK Choice C/ María Auxiliadora 25, 14002
Sector N Parcela 43, Paseo Marítimo Tel 957 47 03 04
de Matalascañas BAEZA: Palacio de Gallego Iconic 1930s establishment
Tel 959 44 10 64 Restaurante & Boutique €€€ often frequented by celebrities.
Sunny chiringuito (beach bar) with Regional Map E2 The skylit patio is decorated
a beachside terrace. Try the lubina Calle Santa Catalina 5, 23440 with azulejos (glazed tiles). Try
a la sal (sea bass baked in salt) and (sea bass baked in salt) and Tel 667 76 01 84 Closed Tue the revuelto (scrambled eggs).
a la sal
a la sal
langosta (fresh lobster), or one of Set in the peaceful courtyard
the first-rate guisos (stews). of a historic building in the CÓRDOBA: La Almudaina €€
old town centre, close to the Traditional Map C2
OSUNA: El Mesón del Duque € cathedral, the Palacio de Gallego Campo Santo de los Mártires 1, 14004
Regional Map C3 offers a fine selection of meats Tel 957 47 43 42 Closed Sun eve
Plaza de la Duquesa 1, 41640 and fish, grilled while you watch. Excellent restaurant in a former
Tel 620 19 47 87 Closed Wed, The excellent wine list spans all bishop’s palace. Traditional dishes
second week in May the regions of Spain. Don't include salmorejo (chilled tomato
A fine traditional eating spot with forget to save room for dessert. and bread soup) and solomillo al
a terrace, offering Andalucían foie (pork sirloin with paté).
specialities. Tapas include home-
made albóndigas (meatballs). BAILÉN: Zodiaco Libra €€ CÓRDOBA: El Blasón €€
Traditional Map D2 Traditional Map C2
OSUNA: Doña Guadalupe €€ Carretera Nailén-Motril km 294, C/ José Zorrilla 11, 14008
Regional Map C3 23710 Tel 957 48 06 25 Closed Sun
Plaza de Guadalupe 6-8, 41640 Tel 953 67 10 58 Centrally located restaurant with
Tel 954 81 05 58 Closed Sat, Sun A popular restaurant that serves an elegant tiled patio. The menu
Family-run restaurant with outdoor cold summer soups on a lovely features amazing guisos (stews),
terrace dining. Sample classic garden terrace. Great shrimp and inventive seafood dishes and
regional fare such as perdíz con asparagus revuelto (scrambled delectable home-made desserts.
arroz (partridge cooked with rice). egg) dishes.
CÓRDOBA: Casa Pepe
PALOS DE LA FRONTERA: CAZORLA: Meson Leandro €€ de la Judería €€
El Bodegón € Traditional Map E2 Regional Map C2
Traditional Map A3 C/ Hoz 3, 23470 C/ Romero 1, 14003
C/ Rábida 46, 21810 Tel 953 72 06 32 Closed Wed & Tel 957 20 07 44 Closed last 2
Tel 959 53 11 05 Closed Tue; 15–30 Jun weekends of May
15–30 Sep Michelin-recommended An enduring favourite since 1928.
An eco-conscious restaurant with restaurant in a lovely Jaén village Dine in the beautiful flower-
indoor and patio dining options. bordering a national park, and filled patio and savour the
Bite into the juicy solomillo a la renowned for its carne a la piedra traditional Córdoban pork
brasa (oak grilled sirloin steak). (stone-baked meat) dishes. dish, flamenquin.
For more information on types of restaurants see p221

232  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

CÓRDOBA: El Churrasco €€ JAÉN: Casa Antonio €€€
Grill Map C2 Modern Map D2 Cádiz and Málaga
C/ Romero 16, 14003 C/Fermín Palma 3, 23008
Tel 957 29 08 19 Closed Aug; Tel 953 27 02 62 Closed Sun eve, ALGECIRAS: Maridaje €
24 Oct; 24, 25 & 31 Dec Mon, Aug Vegetarian/Seafood Map C4
Indulge in romantic patio dining Chic restaurant with a lovely Calle Buen Aire 9, 11201
under a lemon tree. Enjoy the terrace serving contemporary Tel 646 48 64 08 Closed Sun
charcoal-grilled steaks or one of versions of traditional dishes. The This sleek restaurant serves tasty
a range of vegetarian dishes. menu changes frequently but tapas. Try the surtido de atun, a
Tapas menu also available. the excellent cochinillo (suckling plate of tuna prepared in various
pig) features regularly. ways. Good selection of wines.
CÓRDOBA: Regadera €€
Traditional Map C2 PALMA DEL RÍO: El Refectorio €€ ALGECIRAS: La Cabaña €€
Calle Ronda de Isasa 10, 14002 Historic Map C2 Traditional Map C4
Tel 957 10 14 00 Avda Pío XII 35, 14700 Avda Agua Marina 5, 11203
Situated, just steps from the Tel 957 71 01 83 Tel 956 66 73 79 Closed Mon
riverfront, Regadera serves Dine in the old rectory of Traditional restaurant with indoor
excellent food at great prices. Try a converted 15th-century and terrace dining, and live music
the rabo de toro con espuma de monastery. Traditional dishes some nights. Dishes include pulpo
patata (oxtail with potato foam). include game in winter. Try the gallego (Galician-style octopus).
wild boar cooked in acorn flour.
CÓRDOBA: San Miguel ARCOS DE LA FRONTERA:
Casa El Pisto €€ DK Choice Bar La Cárcel €
Traditional Map C2 Traditional Map B3
Plaza San Miguel 1, 14002 ÚBEDA: Parador C/Dean Espinosa, 18, 11630
Tel 957 47 01 66 Closed Sun Condestable Dávalos €€ Tel 956 70 04 10
Sterling family-run eating spot Historic Map E2 A very popular restaurant
with tiled floors and traditional Plaza Vázquez de Molina, 23400 with rustic decor. Ask for the
decor. Sample Iberian cured Tel 953 75 03 45 aubergine with honey and goat’s
meats and pisto (ratatouille). One of Úbeda’s finest and most cheese, or try the carne en Pedro
sumptuous spots, this stylish Ximénez (wine-marinated meat).nez (wine-marinated meat).nez
CÓRDOBA: Caballo Rojo €€€ restaurant is located in a grand
Fine Dining Map C2 16th-century parador. Savour BENAHAVÍS: Los Abanicos €€
C/ Cardenal Herrero 28, 14003 the outstanding cabrito guisado Regional Map C4
Tel 957 47 53 75 con piñones (stewed kid with C/Málaga 15, 28679
Recognized by the Michelin guide, pine nuts) and seasonal game Tel 952 85 50 22 Closed Tue,
this charming eating place is right dishes. A wonderful historic Christmas
next to the Mezquita. Discover setting, traditional decor and Popular for Sunday lunches, this
Basque-, Moorish- and Sephardic- mouth-watering food. restaurant specializes in regional
influenced dishes such as cordero dishes with excellent paletilla de
c c con miel (lamb with honey) and on miel (lamb with honey) and on miel cordero (shoulder of lamb).
the delicious monkfish mozarábe. ÚBEDA: El Seco €€
Traditional Map E2 BENAOJÁN: Molino del Santo €€
JAÉN: Antaño € C/Corazón de Jesus 8, 23400. Market-to-Table Map C3
Traditional Map D2 Tel 953 79 14 52 Bda Estación s/n, 29370
C/de la Rioja 5, 23009 Sink into a cosy dining room Tel 952 16 71 51 Closed Dec–Feb
Tel 953 22 46 51 Closed 1 Jan, and savour homely dishes such With a great location amidst
25 Dec as bacalao al seco (salted cod in wooded mountain countryside,
No-frills restaurant with a large cream sauce). Good service. this place serves dishes prepared
summer terrace. Try the cazuela
(fish stew) or bacalao en alioli (cod bacalao en alioli (cod bacalao en alioli
in garlic and mayonnaise sauce).
JAÉN: Taberna Don Sancho €
Traditional Map D2
Avda de Andalucía 17, 23005
Tel 953 26 40 21
Good-value friendly restaurant
with a creative take on classic
dishes. Ask for the delicious cod
with blueberries. Great service.
JAÉN: Casa Vicente €€
Fine Dining Map D2
C/Cristo Rey 3, 23007
Tel 953 23 22 22 Closed Sun &
Mon eve
Elegant Michelin-recommended
mansion restaurant, which serves
local favourites such as guiso de
cordero (lamb stew) and pimientos
rellenos de mariscos (shellfish-
stuffed peppers). Vibrant interior at El Churrasco, Córdoba
Key to Price Guide see p228

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  233

















Elegant place settings at Casa Paco, Coín
with fresh market vegetables and COÍN: Casa Paco €€ FUENGIROLA: Vegetalia €
local chorizo, ham and game. Traditional Map C3 Vegetarian Map C4
Gourmet barbeques in summer. C/Maria Moreno 2, 29100 C/Santa Isabel 8, Los Boliches 29640
Tel 952 45 03 49 Closed Mon eve, Tel 952 58 60 31 Closed Sun,
CÁDIZ: Freiduría Cervecería Tue Jul–Aug
Las Flores € Large country inn with a range of Finnish-owned vegetarian
Seafood Map B4 menus. Try the boquerones (fresh restaurant with a good lunchtime
Plaza Topete 4, 11001 anchovies) and feast on langostinos buffet. Indulge in delicious home-
Tel 956 22 61 12 (king prawns) and rice dishes. made desserts and juices.
Simple restaurant specializing Popular for wedding receptions.
in mariscos (shellfish) and fresh GAUCÍN: La Fructuosa €€
pescaíto frito (fried fish platter) – ESTEPONA: La Alborada €€ Moroccan/Spanish Map C4
make your choice and see it Seafood Map C4 C/Convento 67, 29480
cooked on the spot. Puerto Deportivo de Estepona, 29680 Tel 617 69 27 84 Closed Mon, Tue,
Tel 952 80 20 47 Closed Wed lunch Wed–Sun
CÁDIZ: Balandro €€ Stylish marine restaurant serving Comfortable Spanish-Moroccan-
Seafood Map B4 tasty paellas and pescaíto frito style restaurant with ceiling beams
Alameda Apodaca 22, 11004 (Andalucían fried fish platter). and an old wine press. Savour the
Tel 956 22 09 92 Good selection of desserts. views while sampling the fresh
Set in a converted 18th-century goat’s cheese and honey.
mansion overlooking the Bay of FUENGIROLA: Moochers
Cádiz, this place offers excellent Jazz Café € GIBRALTAR: The Waterfront €€
boned and grilled gilthead and a Crèpes Map C4 Bistro Map C4
good selection of meat dishes. C/la Cruz 17, 39640 Queensway Quay, Units 4/5 Ragged
Tel 952 47 71 54 Staff Wharf, Marina Bay
CÁDIZ: El Faro €€ A warm and lively restaurant with Tel 350 20 04 56 66 Closed Good
Seafood Map B4 soft, candlelit interiors and live Fri; 25, 26, 31 Dec; 1 Jan
C/San Felix 15, 11011 music in the evening. Moochers A waterside eating spot with
Tel 956 21 10 68 specializes in vegetarian crèpes idyllic sunset views. Sink your teeth
Atmospheric seafood restaurant but seafood and chicken are also into the Cajun chicken, T-bone
in the port district. Do not miss served. Rooftop dining in summer. steaks and grilled sea bass. There
the tortillitas de camarones are also good vegetarian choices.
(shrimp fritters), or try one of the
various taster menus available. GIBRALTAR: Rib Room €€€
Fine Dining Map C4
CÁDIZ: Ventorillo del Chato €€ Rock Hotel, 3 Europa Road
Seafood Map B4 Tel 350 20 07 30 00
Via Augusta Julia, 11011 An iconic restaurant in one of
Tel 956 25 00 25 Closed Sun eve Gibraltar’s most distinguished
(except in Aug) hotels, Rib Room serves delicious
Lovely 18th-century seaside inn modern British cuisine with
specializing in local fresh fish. Try Iberian and Moroccan influences.
the pasta negra fresca y frutos del mar
(fresh black pasta with seafood). JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA: Reino
de Leon Gastrobar €
CASARES: Venta Garcia € Fusion Map B3
Traditional Map C4 C/Latorre, 8, 11402
Ctra de Casares (MA 546) km 7, 29690 Tel 956 32 29 15
Tel 952 89 41 91 Chic modern restaurant with
Charming restaurant set in a interesting choices such as chupa-
scenic white roadside villa that chups cremosos de cheddar con
offers great terrace views. The regaliz (creamy cheddar lollipops
scallops are delicious and so is Original wine press at La Fructuosa with liquorice). Finish with one
the guiso de pescado (fish stew). restaurant, Gaucín of the inventive gin and tonics.
For more information on types of restaurants see p221

234  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


















Diners enjoying the seaview at Garum, Marbella
JEREZ DE LA FRONTERA: MÁLAGA: Antigua Casa MÁLAGA: Mesón Astorga €€
Bar Juanito €€ de la Guardia € Traditional Map D3
Traditional Map B3 Historic Map D3 C/Gerona 11, 29006
C/Pescadería Vieja 8, 11403 Alameda Principal 18, 29015 Tel 952 34 25 63 Closed Sun
Tel 956 33 48 38 Closed Sun Tel 952 21 46 80 Closed Sun (except Classic Malagueno restaurant
Atmospheric tapas bar and Holy Week, Feria & Dec) with dishes prepared from fresh
restaurant with bullfighting and One of Málaga’s oldest and market produce. Sample the
flamenco decorations, serving most atmospheric wine cellar almejas (clams) and boqueroncitos
large portions of tapas; be sure bars. Their speciality tipple is (baby anchovies), and try the
to try the local artichokes. dark, rich Pedro Ximénez wine fried aubergine with sugar
served directly from the barrel. cane honey.
LA LINEA: La Marina €€
Seafood Map C4 MÁLAGA: Mesón Cortijo MÁLAGA: Parador Gibralfaro €€
Paseo Maritímo, La Atunara s/n, 11300 de Pepe € Regional Map D3
Tel 956 17 15 31 Closed Mon; 24, Traditional Map D3 Camino de Gibralfaro s/n, 29006
31 Dec Plaza de la Merced 2, 29012 Tel 952 22 19 02
Large seaside restaurant with Tel 952 22 40 71 Closed Tue Elegant restaurant in Málaga’s
nautical decor. Enjoy great bay Popular tapas bar that serves spectacular hilltop parador,
views while savouring delicious succulent calamarares a la romana serving traditional fare such as
chirlas marineras (clams). (squid fried in batter) and gambas zoque and gazpachelo (standard
a la plancha (grilled prawns). and fish versions of gazpacho).
LOS BARRIOS: Mesón El Copo €€
Seafood Map C4 DK Choice MANILVA: Macues €€
Calle La Almadraba 2 (Palmones), Seafood Map C4
11369 MÁLAGA: El Tintero II € Plaza Delfín s/n, Puerto Deportivo de
Tel 956 67 77 10 Closed Sun Seafood Map D3 la Duquesa
This first-rate beachside Playa del Dedo s/n (El Palo), 29018 Tel 952 89 03 95 Closed Mon, Sat
restaurant serves fresh local Tel 952 20 68 26 lunch
urta (sea bream) and gallineta Without a doubt the noisiest Stylish place serving dorada a la
sal
(Atlantic red fish), as well as restaurant on the Costa del sal
sal (bream baked in salt) – a (bream baked in salt) – a
great home-made desserts. Sol. However, the beachside regular favourite – and charcoal-
location, sweeping views across grilled steaks for meat lovers.
the bay and magnificent choice
of fish dishes make El Tintero II MARBELLA: Altamirano €€
a must visit. There is no menu. Seafood Map C4
You simply need to point at the Plaza Altamirano 3, 29601
dish you want as waiters pass Tel 952 82 49 32 Closed Wed; 8 Jan–
by announcing them. Go for the 15 Feb
grilled salmonetes (red mullet) or Good value family-friendly
rape (angler fish) in a rich garlic option with a garden for alfresco
sauce. Great value for money. dining. Specialities range from
fritura malagueña (fried fish
platter) and besugo a la brasa
MÁLAGA: Café de Paris €€ (barbecued sea bream).
Fusion Map D3
C/Velez Málaga s/n, 29016 MARBELLA: Garum €€
Tel 952 22 50 43 Closed Sun, Fusion Map C4
Mon eve Avda de la Fontanilla, 29600
This stylish restaurant serves Tel 952 85 88 58
modern Spanish-Mediterranean Finnish-run restaurant with an
dishes such as parmesan rice enclosed beachside terrace. Try
The elegant Parador Gibralfaro and tasty pigeon and sirloin with tasty pumpkin, albóndigas (meat-
restaurant, Málaga duck paté, plus innovative tapas. balls), smoked lamb and steaks.
Key to Price Guide see p228

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  235

MARBELLA: Santiago €€ PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA:
Seafood Map C4 Pantalán G €€
Avda Duque de Ahamada 5, 29602 Seafood Map B3
Tel 952 77 00 78 Avenida de la Libertad s/n, Puerto
Great seafood institution dishing Sherry, 11500
out almejas (clams), lubina (sea Tel 956 87 18 65 Closed Sun eve
bass) and a variety of paellas. Port-side restaurant offering a
Good tapas selection at the bar. delectable assortment of meat,
fish and seafood. Meat lovers
MARBELLA: Paco Jiménez €€€ should try the Tomahawk Steak
Traditional Map C4 de Buey. There is a good selection
Plaza Naranjos 11, 29601 of vegetables as well.
Tel 952 77 36 10 Closed lunch,
Mon PUERTO DE SANTA MARÍA:
Opt for a table on the balcony El Faro de El Puerto €€€
overlooking the lovely Plaza de Seafood Map B3
Naranjos. The menu features an Avda de Fuentebravia km 0.5, 11500
array of seafood and meat dishes. Tel 956 87 09 52 Closed Sun eve
(except Aug)
MARBELLA: Skina €€€ Refined family-run restaurant set
Fusion Map C4 in lush gardens serving delicious Michelin-starred Skina in Marbella
C/Aduar 12, 29601 lomo de pargo con berenjenas (red
Tel 952 76 52 77 Closed Sun, Mon, snapper with aubergine). innovative interpretations. Try one
9–15 Dec, 7 Jan–3 Feb Extensive choice of wines. of the paellas, or the lomo de
This Michelin-starred chic, venado en salsa de frambuesas y
intimate, old-town restaurant has RONDA: Tragatapas € moras (venison loin in a raspberry
an eclectic mix of dishes, ranging Modern Map C3 and blackberry sauce) and finish
from rabbit terrine to sole with Calle Nueva 4, 29400 with the pavlova.
artichokes and tomato. Tel 952 87 72 09
Cosy and unassuming, Tragatapas SAN FERNANDO:
MIJAS: El Mirlo Blanco €€ offers inventive tapas such as goat’s Venta de Vargas €
Traditional Map C3 cheese and asparagus, marinated Traditional Map B4
Cuesta de la Villa 13, 29650 salmon and sautéed mushrooms. Plaza Juan Vargas s/n, 11100
Tel 952 48 57 00 Closed Tue, 11 Jan– Tel 956 88 16 22
11 Feb RONDA: Pedro Romero €€ Former haunt of flamenco icon
Established Basque restaurant Traditional Map C3 Cameron de la Isla. The menu
serving dishes such as txangurro C/Virgen de la Paz 18, 29400
(stuffed spider crab) and kokotxas Tel 952 87 11 10 here includes chocos de la bahía
de bac
de bacalao pil pil (cod cheeks in alao pil pil (cod cheeks in alao pil pil
de bac Named after a 17th-century (cuttlefish from the bay). Live
hot garlic, chilli and olive oil). matador, this restaurant serves flamenco every now and then.
excellent rabo de toro (braised
NERJA: Restaurante Jacky €€ oxtail) and perdiz con alubias SANLÚCAR DE BARRAMEDA:
International Map D3 (partridge with kidney beans). Casa Bigote €€
C/Chaparil 6 (Edificio Corona), Seafood Map B3
29780 RONDA: Puerta Grande C/Pórtico Bajo de Guia 10, 11540
Tel 952 52 11 38 Ronda €€ Tel 956 36 26 96 Closed Sun
Intimate, quality restaurant Fine Dining Map C3 Set beside the Guadalquivir
offering French and Mediterranean Calle Nueva 10, 29400 estuary, this traditional restaurant
cuisine. Try the excellent menu Tel 952 87 92 00 Closed dinner, Tue serves fresh seafood and regional
de degustación, or the quail A traditional restaurant serving hams. Exceptional lomo de atún
stuffed with foie gras. Andalucían dishes, some with (tuna steak) and king prawns.
TARIFA: Arte-Vida €€
Seafood Map B4
Ctra Cádiz-Málaga (N 340) km. 79.3,
11380
Tel 956 68 52 46
Chic restaurant with views across
the straits, specializing in fresh
seafood, salads and pizzas. The
café serves great coffee and cakes.
TARIFA: Meson de Sancho €€
Traditional Map B4
Ctra Cádiz-Málaga (N 340) km 94,
11380
Tel 956 68 81 27
Cosy Andalucían inn serving
first-rate dishes and fantastic
breakfasts. Order the sea bream
cooked in cognac or the pierna
The well-stocked wine cellar at El Faro de El Puerto, Puerto de Santa María de cordero (leg of lamb).
For more information on types of restaurants see p221

236  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

€€
DK Choice VEJER DE LA FRONTERA: €€ ALMERÍA: Casa Sevilla Map F3
Venta Pinto
Seafood
TORREMOLINOS: Seafood Map B4 C/Rueda López s/n, 04004
Nuevo Lanjarón € C/La Barca de Vejer s/n, 11150 Tel 950 27 29 12 Closed Sun
Traditional Map D3 Tel 956 45 08 77 Sociable family restaurant serving
C/Europa 10, 29620 Traditional restaurant with fresh seafood. Go for the tempura
Tel 952 38 87 74 Closed Mon specialities including perdiz roja de bacalao sobre arroz meloso de
This long-established family-run asada (roasted red partridge) and hongos (cod tempura on a bed of
place is probably the best value rodaballo al homo con alcaparras creamy mushroom rice). Monthly
restaurant on the Costa del Sol. (baked turbot with capers). wine tastings.
Choose from a variety of
inexpensive set menus that ZAHARA DE LOS ATUNES: ALMERÍA: Club de Mar €€
include fish and meat dishes. Try Restaurante Zoko € Seafood Map F3
the exquisite estofado de ternera Seafood Map B4 Playa de Almadrabillas, 1, 04007
(veal stew) or the generous Calle Real 14, 11393 Tel 950 23 50 48 Closed Tue
fritura malagueña (fried fish Tel 657 86 44 57 Closed Wed Chic restaurant with a seafront
platter), followed by home- Specialities here include salmorejo terrace in Almeria’s prestigious
made flan. Good service. con aguacate y langostinos (thick yacht club. It is renowned for its
gazpacho dip with langoustines zarzuela de pescado y marisco
and avocado) and the mini-fajita (bouillabaise) and fritura de
TORREMOLINOS: Yate El de atun (mini tuna fajita). pescado (fried fish platter).
Cordobés €
Seafood Map D3 ALMERÍA: Taberna Nuevo
Paseo Maritimo s/n (Bajondillo) 29620 Torreluz €€
Tel 952 38 49 56 Granada and Fusion Map F3
Sample local seafood dishes Almería Plaza Flores 1, 04001
ranging from espetos de sardinas Tel 950 23 43 99 Closed Sun,
(charcoal-cooked fresh sardines) ALMERÍA: Rincón de Mon eve
to mero en adobo (grouper Juan Pedro € Elegant restaurant with creative
marinated in vinegar). Traditional Map F3 dishes, varied tapas and raciones.
C/Federico Castro 2, 04003 Delicious breakfasts. Friendly
TORREMOLINOS: Casa Juan Tel 950 27 81 67 Closed Mon service and fantastic location
los Mellizos €€ A very popular tapas bar, offering
Seafood Map D3 generous portions of pungent ALMERÍA: Valentin €€
C/San Ginés 20, 29620 hams, chorizos and cheeses, as Seafood Map F3
Tel 952 37 35 12 well as local specialities such as C/Tenor Iribarne 19, 04001
Excellent value fish dishes at this trigo a la cortijera (wheat berry Tel 950 26 44 75 Closed Mon, Sep
family-run establishment. The and sausage stew). A popular Michelin-recommended
bouillabaisse and fried sea-food marisquería (restaurant specializing
platter, as well as the creamy rice ALMERÍA: Bodega Bellavista €€ in shellfish) where everything is
dishes, are popular draws. Regional Map F3 market fresh.
Urbanización Bellavista, Calle
TORREMOLINOS: Frutos €€ Partenón 1, 04130 BUBIÓN: Teide €
Traditional Map D3 Tel 950 29 71 56 Closed Sun eve & Traditional Map E3
Avda de la Riviera 80, 29620 Mon C/Carretera s/n,18412
Tel 952 38 15 40 Closed Sun eve This charming traditional Tel 958 76 30 37 Closed Second
A typical grand old Costa del restaurant is located close to fortnight in Jun
Sol restaurant. Enjoy classic the airport. It offers classic A charming stone-built restaurant
dishes such as judiones a la regional seafood – shellfish with a tree-shaded garden, Teide
Granja (Castilian style white dominates the menu – and serves home-cooked food such as
beans) and a wide selection meat dishes, using fresh market migas (fried breadcrumbs with
of fresh fish. produce. Great wine list. garlic) and choto asado (roast kid).













Seafood restaurant Casa Juan los Mellizos in Torremolinos
Key to Price Guide see p228

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  237

CARBONERAS: El Cabo €€
Seafood Map F3
Paseo Marítimo 67, 04140
Tel 950 13 06 24 Closed Mon
Beachside restaurant close to Cabo
de Gata National Park. Try seafood
dishes such as squid stuffed with
spinach and pine nuts.
GRANADA: Antigua Bodega
Castañeda €
Traditional Map E3
C/Elvira 5, 18010
Tel 958 22 97 06
Authentic tapas bar with barrels,
beams and colourful tiles. Feast
on Trevélez mountain ham, squid
and sardines, and enjoy a chilled Charming outdoor seating at the popular Ruta del Veleta, Granada
fino on the side.
city views. Try the fresh remojón GRANADA: Ruta del Veleta €€€
GRANADA: Restaurante (salad with salted cod, olives and Fusion Map E3
Carmela € orange) and salmorejo (soup). Ctra Sierra Nevada 136, km 5,4. Cenes
Modern Map E3 de la Vega, 18190
Calle Colcha, 13 (Corner of DK Choice Tel 958 48 61 34 Closed Sun eve
Pavaneras), 18009 Feast on dishes such as roast kid,
Tel 958 22 57 94 GRANADA: Restaurante seasonal game and good seafood
Cheery restaurant serving playful Damasqueros €€ at this popular regional restaurant.
versions of classic Andalucían Modern Map E3
cuisine. Start with croquetas de C/Damasqueros 3 (El Realejo), 18009 HUÉRCAL DE ALMERÍA:
morcilla con cebolla caramelizada Tel 958 21 05 50 Closed Sun eve, Marhaba €€
(black pudding croquettes with Mon Fusion Map F3
caramelized onions). An award-winning tapas bar, Calle Antonio Cano 28, 04009
Restaurante Demasqueros Tel 950 53 06 36 Closed Sun & Mon
GRANADA: Tragalios € serves modern interpretations Moroccan cuisine with Spanish
Modern Map E3 of traditional fare. The rack of influences is well presented in
Calle San Matías 21, 18009 lamb with migas (fried this elegant restaurant.
Tel 685 19 37 41 Closed 15 Jan– breadcrumbs), grapes and
5 Feb, Mon melon is a tasty favourite, and LOJA: La Finca €€€
Colourful restaurant with you can’t go wrong with one Traditional Map D3
innovative interpretations of of the risottos or guisos (stews). Hotel La Bobadilla, Ctra Salinas-
regional fare, including Iberian Villanueva de Tapia (A-333), km 65.5,
pork, aged beef, fresh fish and 18300
plenty of local produce. GRANADA: Ruta del Azafrán €€ Tel 958 32 18 61 Closed Sun & Mon
Fusion Map E3 May–Jul
GRANADA: Carmen del Paseo del Padre Manjón 1, 18010 Delicious seafood, meat and
San Miguel €€ Tel 958 22 68 82 Closed 24 Dec vegetable dishes – all made using
Traditional Map E3 This neat, modern restaurant local ingredients – are served here.
Plaza Torres Bermejas 3, 18009 beside the Darro River serves
Tel 958 22 67 23 Closed Sun eve, an eclectic range of dishes, MOTRIL: Tropical €€
all day Sun in summer including seafood, vegetarian, Regional Map E3
Attractive terrace restaurant Italian and Arabic food. Avda Rodriguez Acosta 23, 18600.
overlooking the Alhambra, Tel 958 60 04 50 Closed Sun, Jun
serving up traditional dishes made Friendly seaside inn serving
from fresh market produce. classic Andalucían fare. Try the
lobster and rice stew.
GRANADA: Chikito €€
Regional Map E3 ROQUETAS DE MAR:
Plaza del Campillo 9, 18009 Alejandro €€€
Tel 958 22 33 64 Closed Wed Seafood/Fusion Map F3
Attractive tapas bar-restaurant Avda Antonio Machado 32, 04740
built on the site of a former Tel 950 32 24 08 Closed Sun, Mon
Garcia Lorca haunt. Be brave and Boasting a Michelin star, this
dig into the tortilla Sacromonte – restaurant specializes in exquisite
omelette with marrow, brains, seafood fusion dishes. Splash out
herbs and bull’s testicles! on the shellfish tasting menu.
GRANADA: Mirador de VERA: Terraza Carmona €€
Mirayma €€ Regional Map F3
Traditional Map E3 C/del Mar 1, 04620
C/Pianista Gracia Carrillo 2, 18010 Tel 950 39 07 60 Closed Mon
Tel 958 22 82 90 Closed Sun eve Award-winning restaurant
This delightful patio restaurant Place settings at upmarket restaurant specializing in regional dishes such
inside the Albaicín offers great La Finca, Loja as seasonal wild boar with olives.
For more information on types of restaurants see p221

238  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
SHOPS AND MARKETS


Shopping in Andalucía is a highly pleasurable arts and crafts, and there is an overwhelming
business, particularly if you approach it in choice of ceramics, leather goods, marquetry,
a typically Spanish manner. Here, shopping jewellery in filigree silver, flamenco-inspired
fits in with the climate, always respects the accessories and sweets and biscuits.
siesta and is meant to be an unhurried, World-famous wines can be had from
leisurely activity, punctuated with frequent the bodegas of Jerez, Montilla, Málaga
breaks for coffee and tapas. and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. A visit to a
While a number of European chain stores bodega, an experience in itself, is the best
and franchises appear all over Spain, the way to become familiar with the variety
towns and villages of the south are of wines on offer.
refreshingly full of shops and businesses Many shops still provide a charming
that are unique to the area. The region is personal service. Although few assistants
renowned for its high-quality, traditional speak English, most are very obliging.

generally take place in January VAT Exemption
and July, though shops may
also sometimes offer pre- Visitors to Spain who come
Christmas discounts or start from countries outside the
their sales in late December. European Union can claim a
refund of sales tax (IVA,
pronounced “eeva” in Spanish)
How to Pay on items bought at large
It is still customary among department stores such
Spaniards to pay in cash. as Cortefiel and El Corte
While many shops, especially Inglés. For each item that you
the larger stores, now accept purchase costing more than
major credit cards, few take €90.16 you need to collect
traveller’s cheques. a form from the store’s
You are entitled to central cash desk.
exchange goods if You should have this
Calle Sierpes, one of the busiest shopping you can produce a stamped both as
streets in Seville receipt, although this you leave Spain and
does not apply to on re-entering your
items bought in a own country. You
When to Shop
sale. Large shops then need to
Spanish shops tend to close and department One of several styles of plate return the stamped
during the afternoon siesta stores tend to give made in Seville form to the shop
(except for department stores credit notes rather where the
and touristy souvenir shops in than cash refunds. It is a good purchase was made, which,
the large towns). Most shops idea to check the shop’s policy in turn, will send you a cheque
open at 9:30am and close at with a sales assistant before refunding the sales tax on the
1:30pm. They usually reopen you buy anything. items you bought.
about 4:30pm or 5pm, and stay
open until around 8pm. These
times will obviously vary from
shop to shop; boutiques, for
example, rarely open before
10am. Times also tend to vary
during summer – some shops
close altogether in the
afternoon heat, while others will
stay open later than usual, in
order to take full advantage of
the large numbers of visitors.
Many shops – especially if
they are in small towns – close
on Saturday afternoons. This
practice, however, is now
gradually disappearing. Sales An array of fans at Albanicos Díaz, Calle Sierpes, Seville

SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  239


images. For the most Muebles Ceballos, situated
exquisite baby clothes, on the busy Calle de la Feria,
head for Larrana and is one of several shops in the
look for Agua de Sevilla Seville area that specializes
perfumes in El Corte Inglés. in traditionally made wicker-
The Botellas y Latas is a small work items.
grocers stocking gourmet
Spanish food and wines. The Córdoba
Calle Hernando Colón has
a few curious shops for Córdoba presents plenty of
collectors of everything options for the shopper. Perhaps
from old children’s toys the most fascinating shopping
to stamps, while El area is within the old narrow
Postigo, in the El Arenal streets of the Judería (see p144).
area, is an arts and crafts Here the Zoco Municipal runs
centre with a good selection an interesting selection of craft
Stylish hats from Sombrerería of handmade items on sale. workshops making Córdoban
Herederos de J Russi in Córdoba Sevillarte, which is close to specialities such as filigree silver
Real Alcázar (see pp86–7), and jewellery, hand-painted
Martián sell attractive ceramics ceramics, leather-ware and
Shopping in Seville for both utility and decoration. wonderful, award-winning
Seville is a charming city in For some of Andalucía’s finest painted masks. Ceramics,
which to shop, offering the ceramics, head for Triana (see leatherware and woodwork
buyer a unique concoction p106). Look out can also be found
of old-style regional crafts in particular for at Artesanos
and good modern design. Cerámica Triana, Cordobeses. The
The district that surrounds Antonio Campos area surrounding
Calle Tetuán and the pedes- and the many the Mezquita (see
trianized Calle Sierpes (see p78) small work-shops p148) is packed
is the place to visit for the best along the Calle with souvenir
of Seville’s old and new shops. Covadonga. shops, which
This is a smart area of bustling Triana is also a apart from the
streets, where you will find an good area for expected tourist
eclectic range of goods. purchasing Colourful, hand painted tiles at trinkets, sell a
For stylish, fashion-forward flamboyant Cerámica Santa Ana range of fine
attire for the whole family, flamenco outfits, handicrafts. Of
head to Massimo Dutti. Stylish while at Juan Osete you can these, Meryan specializes
Loewe makes exquisite luggage buy a marvellous range of feria in embossed leather goods.
and leather bags, clothes and accessories. Anyone who claims At the guitar workshop of
accessories in striking colours, to be a serious collector of Manuel Reyes Maldonado
while Purificación Garcia sells antiques must make a point you can purchase highest
chic clothes. of calling at Antigüedades quality, custom-built guitars,
The streets around the Plaza El Museo, which has a fine many of which end up in the
Nueva are full of shops such as collection of furniture, decorative hands of internationally
Nuria Cobo, Paco Rodriguez art and jewellery. renowned musicians.
and Adolfo Domínguez, selling At FÉLIX you can One of the most celebrated
stylish, tailored clothes and find historical posters hat-makers in the whole of Spain
shoes; and quaint shops that sell from spring festivals is the Sombrerería Herederos
religious objects. Ornate earrings, and bullfights of de J Russi. You can purchase a
colourful headpieces and other years gone by. typical, flat-topped córdobes
one-of-a-kind acces-sories can hat here for a great deal
be found in Naif Tocados. For less than the price that
typically Andalusian items, would be asked in
such as elaborate fans, go to Madrid or Seville.
Albanicos Diaz; for top-quality
cordobés hats to Maquedano
and for hand-embroidered
shawls, to Juan Foronda.
Around the Barrio de Santa
Cruz is a range of interesting
shops. Among these are Casa
Rodríguez and Velasco, which
specialize in trimmings for
church robes and religious Manuel Reyes Maldonado in his guitar workshop in Córdoba

240  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Andalucía
In Andalucía people frequently
make special trips to towns
famed for one particular item,
such as olive oil, wine, rugs or
furniture. If you have time to
explore, the region offers many
local, handmade specialities.
The finest virgin olive oils
Marquetry in the making in a come from Baena (see p151)
Granada workshop and Segura de la Sierra (see
p160). Some of the best olive
Granada oil in Sevilla province is sold
The characteristically cold winters in the village of Ginés. Many
ensure that shops in Granada monasteries make and sell Fruit and vegetable market in
keep a range of winter clothes their own sweets and biscuits. Vélez Blanco (see p205)
and shoes. Zara stocks both There are several bodegas
menswear and womenswear, which are worth a visit, namely Just north of Granada, in the
and Cortefiel is a quality depart- those in Jerez (see p166), in small village of Jún, Cerámica
ment store specializing in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (see Miguel Ruiz Jiménez collects
clothing. With the Sierra p166), in Montilla (see p151) and and sells some of the finest
Nevada close by, skiwear in Málaga town (see p182. ceramics and pottery made all
is sold in some depart- Botijos – spouted over Andalucía.
ment stores as well ceramic drinking Exquisite hand-embroidered
as specialist shops. jugs – are a local shawls are sold by Ángeles
The city centre speciality of the Espinar in Villamanrique de
is full of surprises, town of La Rambla, Condesa, outside Seville.
among them the 30 km (19 miles)
Mercado Árabe, a south of Córdoba.
long gallery packed In Córdoba Markets
with shops that sell province, Lucena The markets held in most
Moroccan-inspired Basketware from Alhama (see p151) is a good Andalucían towns offer a
clothing and acces- de Granada place to buy ceramics wonderful opportunity to try
sories. Artesanía Beas and wrought ironwork. local food specialities, including
specializes in marquetry, while Ronda (see pp178–9) has a a wide range of sausages,
Mantillas Granada offers hand- few shops selling rustic-style cheeses and cured ham.
made lace mantillas. El Artesano furniture. In Guarromán in Jaén Most markets tend to sell a
Granada has handmade leather province, antique furniture is little of everything. However,
bags and accessories. For sold at Antigüedades Trastos Seville does have a few
Flamenco-inspired ornaments, Viejos, which is housed in an specialized markets. These
head to Cándido Puerto old cortijo (farmhouse). include an antiques and bric-
Artesanía y Complementos, In Granada province, the a-brac market, which is held
which sells handmade mantillas, villages of Las Alpujarras (see in Calle Feria on Thursdays.
fans and earrings. In the streets p204) are famous for jarapas, On Sundays, Los Pájaros pet
around the Gran Vía are platerías – (rag rugs), basketwork and market takes place in Plaza del
smart shops selling silverware. locally grown medicinal herbs. Alfalfa, and stamps and coins
are traded at Plaza del Cabildo.
All manner of bric-a-brac are
sold on Charco de la Pava in La
Cartuja, and a bigger rastro (flea
market) is held in the Parque
Alcosa, northeast of the centre.
The food markets in Plaza
de la Encarnación and El Arenal
are both very good.
Córdoba has an absorbing
flea market on Saturdays and
Sundays at the 16th-century
arcaded Plaza de la Corredera.
On the Costa del Sol, bric-a-
brac markets and car boot sales
are popular. The best are held
on Tuesday and Saturday morn-
Pottery stall at the Plaza de la Corredera market in Córdoba ings at Fuengirola fairground.

SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  241


DIRECTORY
Seville Paco Rodríguez El Postigo Cortefiel
C/Tetuán 5–7. Calle Arfe s/n. Map 3 B2 Gran Vía de Colón 1.
DEPARTMENT STORES Map 3 C1 (5 C3). (5 C4). Tel 954 56 00 13. Tel 958 22 35 47.
El Corte Inglés Tel 954 21 66 06. ∑ mercadodeartesania ∑ cortefiel.es
elpostigo.com
Pl Duque de la Victoria 10. ∑ calzadospa Zara
Map 1 C5 (5 C2). corodriguez.com Sevillarte Calle Recogidas 10–12.
Tel 954 59 70 00. FLAMENCO Calle Vida 13. Map 3 C2 (6 Tel 958 25 25 04.
∑ elcorteingles.es D5). Tel 954 21 03 91.
Albanicos Díaz ∑ sevillarte.com ARTS AND CRAFTS
Cortefiel Calle Sierpes 71.
C/Tetuan 18–20. Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Artesanía Beas
Map 5 C3. Tel 954 22 81 02. ART AND ANTIQUES Calle de Santa Rosalía 20.
Tel 958 81 37 58.
Tel 954 21 24 76. ∑ abanicsodesevilla. Antigüedades El
∑ cortefiel.com net Museo ∑ artesaniabeas.com
FASHION AND Juan Foronda Plaza del Museo 4. Map 1 Mantillas Granada
ACCESSORIES Calle Sierpes 79. B5 (5 B2). Tel 954 56 01 28. Carretera de Murcia 120,
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). ∑ antiguedades Albaicín. Tel 958 27 13 28.
Adolfo Domínguez Tel 954 21 40 50. elmuseo.com ∑ mantillasgranada.
Pl Duque de la Victoria 8. ∑ juanforonda.com com
Map 1 C5 (5 C2). FOOD AND WINE
Tel 954 21 68 86. Juan Osete Botellas y Latas Mercado Árabe
∑ adolfodominguez. Calle de Castilla 10. Calle Regina 14. La Alcaicería.
Map 3 A1.
com Map 2 D5 (2 D1).
Tel 954 34 33 31. Andalucía
Loewe Roberto Garrudo Tel 954 29 31 22.
Plaza Nueva 12. C/ Córdoba 9. Córdoba Ángeles Espinar
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Calle Pascual Márquez 8,
Tel 954 22 52 53. Tel 954 21 84 19. ARTS AND CRAFTS Villamanrique de
∑ loewe.com Condesa, Sevilla.
RELIGIOUS OBJECTS Artesanos Cordobeses Tel 955 75 56 20
Maquedano Calle Judios, s/n (Zoco). (call ahead).
Calle Sierpes 40. Casa Rodríguez Tel 957 20 40 33. ∑ angeles
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Calle Francos 35. ∑ artesaniade espinar.com
Map 3 C1 (6 D3).
Tel 954 56 47 71. Tel 954 22 78 42. cordoba.com/en Antigüedades
∑ maquedano.com
∑ casa-rodriguez.es Manuel Reyes Trastos Viejos
Massimo Dutti Velasco Maldonado Autovía E5 km 280,
Velazquez 13. Calle Chapineros 4 (off Calle Armas 6. Aldea de los Rios 1,
Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Calle Francos). Tel 957 47 91 16. Guarromán, Jaén.
Tel 954 22 57 72. Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Tel 953 61 51 26.
∑ massimodutti.com Tel 954 21 83 38. Meryan ∑ trastosviejos.com
Calleja de las Flores 2.
Naif Tocados ARTS AND CRAFTS Tel 957 47 59 02. Cerámica Miguel Ruiz
Calle San Eloy 27. ∑ meryancor.com Jiménez
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Antonio Campos Camino Viejo de Jún s/n,
Tel 677 78 20 67. C/Alfarería 22, Triana. Sombrerería Jún, Granada.
∑ naiftocados.es Map 3 A2. Herederos de J Russi Tel 958 41 40 77.
Tel 651 88 19 20. Calle Conde de Cárdenas
Purificación García ∑ alfareriantonio 1, Gondomar 4.
Plaza Nueva 8. campos.blogspot.com.es Tel 957 47 79 53.
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). Cerámica Triana ∑ rusiherederos.com
Tel 954 50 11 29. Calle Callao 14, Triana. Zoco Municipal
∑ purificacion Map 3 A2 (5 A4).
garcia.com Tel 954 33 21 79. Calle Judíos s/n.
Tel 957 29 05 75.
CHILDREN’S CLOTHES FÉLIX
Larrana Avda de la Constitución, Granada
26 Sevilla, 41001.
Calle Blanca de los Ríos 4. Map 3 C2 (5 C4). FASHION, SHOES
Map 3 C1 (6 D3). Tel 954 21 80 26. AND ACCESSORIES
Tel 954 21 52 80.
∑ larrana.es Martián El Artesano Granada
Calle Sierpes 74. Calle Salamanca 11.
SHOES Map 3 C1 (5 C3). Tel 661 11 91 02.
Nuria Cobo Tel 954 21 34 13. Cándido Puerto
C/Méndez Núňez esq, Muebles Ceballos Artesanía y
Rosario 16. Calle Feria 49 Complementos
Map 3 B1 (5 C3). (near Calle de Relator). Calle Salamanca 13.
Tel 954 21 13 24. Map 2 D4. Tel 958 25 49 95.
∑ nuriacobo.com Tel 954 90 17 54. ∑ mantones.com

242  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Andalucía

The strong and vibrant culture of Andalucía is reflected
in the items available in the region’s markets and shops.
Andalucía has a long tradition of arts and crafts, so its
towns and villages produce a surprising range of unique,
often exquisite, handmade goods. Many towns have
specialities; for example, Granada is famous for
marquetry and Moorish-style painted ceramics;
Seville for fans and mantillas; Jerez, Montilla and
Málaga for their renowned wines; while Córdoba
specializes in filigree silver, leather work and guitars. Traditional glazed earthenware pots from
Úbeda (see pp158–9) in the province of Jaén
The Ceramics of Andalucía
The rich, terracotta soil of Andalucía has
been utilized for centuries in the creation
of practical and decorative ceramics. The
variety encompasses simple earthenware
cooking dishes (cazuelas), drinking jugs
(botijos), pots (tinajas), decorative painted
tiles (azulejos), and kitchen and tableware.
You can buy them from workshops or,
more cheaply, from local markets.
Ceramic plate painted in traditional colours










Plate from Ronda spattered Bowl from Córdoba in Replicas of 18th-century
in blue and green a traditional design tiles from Triana (see p104)











Leather Goods
Leather goods such as bags and belts can be bought
all over Andalucía. Embossed leather, however, is a
speciality of the city of Córdoba (see pp144–50).
Rugs
Andalucían rug-making skills have Inlaid Boxes
developed over centuries. The most famous
rug-making area is in the Alpujarras (see Marquetry is produced in Granada
pp204–5), where rugs are made in various (see pp194–202). Craftsmen make
fibres, including cotton and wool, and in furniture, boxes, and other items
colour schemes in which earth colours inlaid with ivory and coloured
and blues predominate. woods in Moorish designs.

SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  243

Handmade Fans
A classic souvenir
from Andalucía,
a fan is useful in
the searing
heat. The most
exclusive are
Castanets
wooden, carved and
Castanets, a classic painted by hand.
flamenco musical
instrument, can be bought
in a medley of sizes, made
of wood or plastic.





Guitars
In the land of flamenco,
guitars are a speciality. Mantillas
Workshops in A mantilla is a headdress of lace draped
Córdoba produce over a large and ornate comb which is
top-quality, custom- crafted from tortoiseshell or made in plastic.
made guitars, many
of which are destined
for famous guitarists.


The Flavours of Andalucía
Andalucían gastronomy reflects locally
grown produce. An astonishing range of
olive oils is available, and the region’s grapes
are made into sherry vinegars, as well as
some of Spain’s most distinctive wines (see
p226). Almonds are used to make delicious
sweets, such as turrón, a type of nougat.

Olive oil from the provinces Sherry wine vinegars
of Córdoba and Sevilla produced by sherry bodegas
Herbs and Spices
Almost 800 years of Moorish occupation
in Andalucía left a distinctive mark on the
region’s cuisine. Many dishes are flavoured
with fragrant spices once imported from
the East, such as cumin, coriander, paprika,
and strands of saffron. Markets are the best
Yemas, sweets produced by nuns in the place to buy exotic spices and locally grown
Convento de San Leandro (see p81) herbs, which are sold loose by weight.
Saffron threads







Marmalade from the Convento de Pimentón (paprika) Coriander seeds Cumin seeds
Santa Paula (see p94) in Seville

244  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT

IN ANDALUCÍA

In Andalucía there is almost always a lively fixtures. There is also music and dance in
buzz in the streets, and activities such as bar- abundance – Andalucía is, after all, the
hopping and people-watching can provide home of flamenco.
enough entertainment in themselves to fill Given the mild climate, many events
up any spare moment of your holiday. take place out of doors; in summer, when
But there is also plenty more going on. daytime temperatures can soar to up to
Southern Spain boasts a busy programme 45°C (113°F), they do not start until late in
of traditional fiestas (see pp42–3), as well the evening, when the air is cooler. Many
as a variety of annual cultural festivals (see cultural events and concerts begin at
pp38–41), theatre performances and sporting around midnight.

Booking Tickets Flamenco, which is held in
It is usually possible to theatres all over the city in
book tickets for major even-numbered years, and
sports events, operas, Córdoba’s Concurso Nacional
concerts and festivals in de Arte Flamenco, which
advance at the venue’s happens every third year
booking office, by phone (2019, 2022 and so on).
or online. Alternatively, use
an agency that specializes
in booking tickets for all Theatre
entertainments, such as Most drama staged in
Ticketmaster and Andalucía is in Spanish,
Entradas.com. but there are occasional
performances by visiting
international companies or
Flamenco
mime artists. The theatre
Seville and Jerez de la season includes not only
Frontera claim to be the plays, but also classical music,
birthplaces of flamenco, dance and opera. Seville’s
the traditional music and main theatres are the Teatro
dance of Andalucía (see de la Maestranza (see p72),
Flamenco guitarist playing at a festival at the pp32–3). Both cities have the Teatro Lope de Vega
Teatro de la Maestranza, Seville tablaos, bars and restau- (see p101) and the
rants with floor-shows where Teatro Central.
the admission usually includes In Córdoba, the place to
Practical Information
dinner or at least a drink. In go is the Gran Teatro.
Tourist information offices are Seville, it is best to look for Granada’s two main theatres
the best places to find out what venues in the Barrio de Santa are the Teatro Alhambra and
is on locally, but there are also Cruz. A good starting point is the Teatro Isabel La Católica.
two useful listings magazines the Museo del Baile Flamenco Málaga has the Teatro Cánovas
worth looking out for: El (see p79) or La Casa de la and the Teatro Cervantes.
Giraldillo (published in Seville) Memoria de Al Andalus, both
and Qué Hacer/What’s On of which feature intimate,
(published in Málaga). Both quality performances.
appear monthly, cover all of Jerez has a Centro Andaluz
Andalucía and are free. de Flamenco, as well as several
Each major city has its own tablaos. In Granada, there are
commercial websites offering traditional flamenco venues in
a wealth of local information, Sacromonte (see p197) and the
but certain websites covering Albaicín – among them, Sala
the whole of Spain, notably Albayzín and Zambra María
Guía del Ocio, are also worth La Canastera. Córdoba also
consulting; just choose the has some flamenco bars, notably
province in which you El Cardenal and La Bulería.
are interested from the drop- The two main flamenco Gran Teatro, Córdoba, one of the city’s
down menu. festivals are Seville’s Bienal de leading venues for theatre

ENTER T AINMENT IN AND AL UCÍA  245


concerts usually which differs from a tapas bar
take place in in that no food is served and
football stadiums spirits replace wine and beer for
and bullrings. drinking. Some such bars have
Spain has its own DJs at weekends. The next stop
thriving rock-pop is a discoteca, which may open
scene. Andalucían at midnight but not fill up for a
musicians, in couple of hours. There are clubs
particular, have in the city centres, but many are
drawn on their on industrial estates or outside
flamenco roots to of town, where the noise won’t
Rosario Flores, a famous Andalucían singing star, performing create distinctive bother residents.
at one of her concerts fusions between Where to go depends on
musical genres. your age, your musical
Cinema Two other great tastes and your sexual
Most foreign films shown influences on the orientation –
in main-stream cinemas in contemporary each city has
Andalucía are usually dubbed music of Andalucía a few gay and
into Spanish. Original-version are North Africa lesbian clubs.
(VO for version original) films version original) films version original and Latin America. If you aren’t
are shown in cinemas such Jazz also has a concerned about
as Avenida 5 Cines in Seville, devoted public in being seen in the
the Filmoteca de Andalucía Andalucía: Seville hippest places, reliably
in Córdoba and the Complejo has the Naima Jazz fun areas to go bar-
Cinematográfico Gran Café and Granada hopping in are the
Marbella on the Costa del Sol. has the Festival de Santa Cruz quarter in
From June to late August, you Jazz. To find out Seville, the Judería
can also attend a cine de verano, where the up-and- La tuna, traditional singers in Córdoba and
an open-air “summer cinema”. coming acts are in Santa Cruz, Seville around the Plaza
playing, ask around or del Realejo and the
keep an eye out for flyers. lower Albaicín (especially the
Opera and Classical Another interesting musical Carrera del Darro and the Paseo
Music tradition is represented by de los Tristes) in Granada.
In Seville, most operas, la tuna: groups of students The summer nightlife of
including those by prestigious dressed as minstrels playing the holiday resorts on the
international companies, are lutes and mandolins and Costa del Sol is completely
performed at either the Teatro singing serenades in streets different from that of the cities
Lope de Vega (see p101) or the and squares. of Andalucía. Here you’ll still find
Teatro de la Maestranza (see bares de copa and discotecas,
p72). For something less high- Nightlife but also many places geared
brow, Spain has its own brand to foreign tourists.
of operetta, zarzuela. Nights out in Andalucía begin For a smart night out, try
As for classical music, all late and can easily go on until one of Andalucía’s casinos.
the main cities maintain their dawn. The first stop is often a Don’t dress too casually, and
own orchestras (such as the bar de copas (also called a pub), take your passport with you.
Real Orquesta Sinfónica de
Sevilla). Granada is great for
classical music. As well as
having the Centro Cultural
Manuel de Falla as a venue, it
hosts the Festival Internacional
de Música y Danza (see p39),
during which concerts are
held against the backdrop
of the Alhambra.

Other Live Music
Touring international rock
and pop stars mostly play
their Spanish dates in Madrid
or Barcelona, but they some-
times make it to Seville or
other cities in Andalucía. Such A display of flamenco dancing in a bar in Seville

246  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


ride in Gibraltar (see pp174–5).
In Seville, a boat trip down the
river can be fun, as can be the
trip across the Bay of Cádiz in
a catamaran (see p169). Horse
and carriages travel round the
streets in Marbella, Córdoba and
Seville, and most beach resorts
also have road trains.
In Córdoba, children can
let off steam at Ciudad de
los Niños, a large park with
more than 30 slides, swings,
trampolines and other attract­
ions. It is located directly behind
El Parque Zoológico de Córdoba
and access is free with a zoo
entry pass. The park is free for
kids under the age of five.
The desert in the centre of
Almería region was once used
as a film set for westerns (see
p208), and kids love the shoot­
outs staged by the small Wild
West town of Oasys Parque
Real Escuela Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre, Jerez de la Frontera Temático Mini-Hollywood, near
Tabernas. Another good show –
this time of performing horses –
Bullfighting June. During the season, teams is put on by the Real Escuela
The Maestranza bullring (see p72) also compete in an eliminatory Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre (see
in Seville is mythical among tournament for the Copa del p166) in Jerez de la Frontera.
bullfighting fans, and some of Rey (King’s Cup) and for inter­ Jerez also has Andalucía’s best
the most important bullfights in national trophies; such matches collection of exotic animals in
Spain are held here during the are usually played mid­week. the Zoobotánico Jerez; the
Feria de Abril (see p42). Ronda Important fixtures are televised, safari park Selwo Aventura,
(see pp178–9), although some are outside Estepona, is also good.
Córdoba and Granada only shown on pay­ There are aquariums at Roquetas
also have their own per­view channels. To del Mar (see p208) in Almería
bullrings and a see a live game, it is and Benalmádena, a town
renowned season. advisable to book that also offers Selwo Marina,
The season usually ahead at the stadium Andalucía’s only dolphinarium
runs from April to or online. and ice penguinarium. The
October. Tickets are Acuario de Sevilla in Seville is
sold at the bullring’s Entertainment another large aquarium.
booking office.
Tile for Seville’s Betis for Children
football club In Spain, children go
Football
wherever adults go at
Football is the most popular just about any time of day or
spectator sport in Spain. Seville night. If you want to take yours
has two rival teams, FC Sevilla, for a treat, there are several
based at the Estadio Ramón options. Isla Mágica (see p108)
Sánchez Pizjuán, and Betis, in Seville is Andalucía’s biggest
who play at the Estadio theme park, while Tivoli World
Benito Villamarín. is the largest amusement park
Other successful teams in the on the Costa del Sol. Every city
region are Cádiz, Málaga and and strip of coast has its water
Recreativo de Huelva (the park designed specifically for
oldest football club in Spain). older children (see p249). A cable
The Spanish football league car, the Teleférico Benalmádena,
has three divisions, with league takes off from beside Tivoli World
matches being played on to the top of Mount Calamorro,
Sunday (sometimes Saturday) 800 m (2,600 ft) above sea level. The port of Gibraltar from the vantage
evenings from September to There is another good cable­car point of a cable car

ENTER T AINMENT IN AND AL UCÍA  247


DIRECTORY
Practical CÓRDOBA Festival Internacional Football
Information Gran Teatro de Música y Danza Estadio Benito
El Giraldillo Avenida Gran Capitán 3. Corral del Carbón, 2ª Villamarín (Betis)
planta Mariana Pineda s/n.
∑ elgiraldillo.es Tel 957 48 02 37. Tel 958 27 62 00. Avenida Heliópolis,
∑ teatrocordoba.es Seville. Tel 902 19 19 07.
Guía del Ocio ∑ granadafestival.org
∑ guiadelocio.com GRANADA Other Live Music ∑ realbetisbalompie.es
Booking Tickets Teatro Alhambra Estadio Ramón
Sánchez Pizjuán
Calle Molinos 56. SEVILLE
Entradas.com Tel 958 02 80 00. Naima Jazz Café (Sevilla FC)
Avenida Eduardo Dato,
Tel 902 65 65 79. Calle Trajano 47. Map 1 C5 Seville. Map 4 F2.
∑ entradas.com Teatro Isabel (5 C1). Tel 954 38 24 85. Tel 902 51 00 11.
La Católica
Ticketmaster Calle Acera del Casino 7. GRANADA ∑ sevillafc.es
Tel 902 48 84 88. Tel 958 22 29 07.
∑ ticketmaster.es Festival de Jazz Entertainment
MÁLAGA de Granada for Children
Flamenco Teatro Cánovas Calle Mariana Pineda 8.
SEVILLE Plaza de El Ejido 5. Tel 958 21 59 80. BENALMÁDENA
∑ jazzgranada.es
Tel 951 30 89 02. Selwo Marina
Bienal de Flamenco Parque de la Paloma.
Tel 955 47 28 22. Teatro Cervantes Nightlife Tel 902 19 04 82.
∑ labienal.com Calle Ramos Marín. SEVILLE ∑ selwomarina.es
Casa de la Memoria Tel 952 22 41 09. Bar 1987 Teleférico
∑ teatrocervantes.com
de Al Andalus Alameda de Hércules 93. Benalmádena
C/ Cuna 6. Map 3 C1 (6 D2). Explanada de Tivoli.
Tel 954 56 06 70. Cinema Gran Casino Aljarafe Tel 902 19 04 82.
CÓRDOBA SEVILLE Avenida de la Arboleda, ∑ teleferico
Tomares. Tel 902 42 42 22. benalmadena.com
La Bulería Avenida 5 Cines ∑ grancasinoaljarafe.
Calle Pedro López 3. Marqués de Paradas 15. com Tivoli World
Tel 957 48 38 39. Tel 954 29 30 25. Rejoneo Avda de Tivoli s/n.
El Cardenal CÓRDOBA Calle Betis 31. Tel 952 57 70 16.
∑ tivoli.es
Calle Buen Pastor 2. Tel 658 80 90 03.
Tel 691 21 79 22. Filmoteca de CÓRDOBA
∑ tablaocardenal.es Andalucía BENALMÁDENA Ciudad de los Niños
Concurso Nacional Medina y Corella 5. Tel 957 Casino Torrequebrada Avenida de Linneo s/n.
de Arte Flamenco 10 36 27. ∑ filmotecade Avenida del Sol. Tel 952 Tel 650 54 78 65.
Tel 957 48 02 37. andalucia.es 57 73 00. ∑ casino
torrequebrada.com
GRANADA MARBELLA GRANADA ESTEPONA
Sala Albayzín Complejo Selwo Aventura
Avda Selwo s/n, Autovía
Carretera de Murcia, Cinematográfico Paripé A7 km 162.5.
Mirador San Cristóbal. Tel Gran Marbella Calle Moras 1. Tel 902 19 04 82.
958 80 46 46. ∑ flamen Av Julio Iglesias s/n. Tel 951 Tel 629 42 38 55.
coalbayzin.com 19 66 65. ∑ cineste MARBELLA ∑ selwo.es
Zambra María La atrogoya.com Casino Nueva JEREZ DE LA
Canastera Andalucía FRONTERA
Opera and pera and pera and
Camino del Sacromonte O O Hotel Andalucía Plaza.
Classical Musical Music
89. Tel 958 12 11 83. Classic Tel 952 81 40 00. Zoobotánico Jerez
∑ granadainfo.com/ ∑ casinomarbella.com C/ Madreselva s/n.
canastera SEVILLE Tel 956 14 97 85.
∑ zoobotanico
JEREZ DE LA Real Orquesta PUERTO DE SANTA jerez.com
FRONTERA Sinfónica de Sevilla MARÍA
Centro Andaluz de Tel 954 56 15 36. Casino Bahía de Cádiz SEVILLE
Flamenco ∑ rossevilla.es Tel 956 87 10 42. Acuario de Sevilla
Palacio Pemartin, Plaza Teatro de la ∑ casinobahiade Muelle de las Delicias,
San Juan 1. Tel 956 90 21 Maestranza cadiz.es Area Sur, Puerto de Sevilla.
34. ∑ centroandaluz Paseo de Colón 22. Map 3 Bullfighting Tel 955 44 15 41.
deflamenco.es ∑ acuariosevilla.es
B2 (5 C5). Tel 954 22 33 44.
Theatre ∑ teatrodelamae CÓRDOBA TABERNAS
stranza.es
SEVILLE Plaza de Toros Oasys Parque Tématico
GRANADA Avenida de Gran Vía Mini-Hollywood
Teatro Central Parque. Tel 957 23 25 07. Carretera Nacional 340A,
C/ José Gálvez 6, Isla de la Centro Cultural GRANADA Km 464, Tabernas, Almería.
Cartuja. Map 1 C2. Tel 955 Manuel de Falla
54 21 55. ∑ juntade Paseo de los Mártires. Plaza de Toros Tel 902 53 35 32.
andalucia.es/cultura/ Tel 958 22 21 88. Avenida Doctor Olóriz 25. ∑ oasysparque
teatros/teatro-central ∑ manueldefalla.org Tel 958 27 24 51. tematico.com

248  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
AND SPECIALIST HOLIDAYS

Andalucía has a perfect climate for waters of the Mediterranean. Away
enjoying a range of outdoor activities, from the seashore, there are many golf
with comparatively few cold or wet days, courses and some great countryside –
and reliable sunshine most of the year. mostly hilly or mountainous – suitable for
Its coastline offers a great variety of water hiking and horse riding. In winter, skiers head
sports – from windsurfing on the Atlantic for Europe’s southernmost winter-sport
coast, to scuba diving in the clear, calm resort on the slopes of the Sierra Nevada.

Walking and Trekking
as Authentic Adventures (see
Andalucía has a huge variety of Specialist Holidays p250) and
landscapes suitable for walking: Spanish Steps offer guided
from coastal fringes, through walks through the region.
forests, to mountain ranges.
Spring is the best time to be
outdoors: temperatures are mild, Cycling
and the landscape blossoms with Andalucía’s terrain is mainly
wildflowers. Mid-summer is best mountainous, which discourages
avoided because of the extreme all but the hardiest cyclist.
heat and the risk of dehydration. Added to this, there are few
Two popular areas for hiking quiet backroads to use as
are the Alpujarras (see pp204–5) alternatives to busy main roads.
and the Sierra de Grazalema (see However, the trend of converting
p176), but all of the region’s nature disused railway lines into “green Fishing at a beach on Andalucía’s
reserves have marked footpaths. ways” (vía verdes) has created Mediterranean coast
Always carry a good map. 12 traffic-free cycling routes,
The Spanish army (Servicio such as the 55 km (34 mile) fishing in its scattered reservoirs
Geográfico del Ejército) produces Via Verde del Aceite (Olive Oil and rivers, such as in the Cazorla
a useful series of 1:50,000 maps, Green Way) between Jaén and Nature Reserve (see p160). For
but the best are the 1:25,000- Alcaudete. To locate green information about where to go
series maps published by the ways, see the Fundación de and permits needed, contact
Centro Nacional de Información los Ferrocarriles Españoles the regional fishing association,
Geográfica (CNIG). Wear good website. If you want to go on the Federación Andaluza de
walking shoes, preferably boots, an organized cycling holiday Pesca Deportiva.
and long trousers to avoid with accommodation arranged
lacerations from spiky for you, try Biking Andalucía. Wildlife and
Mediterranean shrubs. Bring a
hat and, if you are going to be Fishing Birdwatching
gaining altitude, a warm jacket. The best place to get close
Always carry drinking water. Andalucía offers good to Andalucía’s wildlife is the
For more advice, contact seafishing off its coasts as D D
Doñana National Park (see oñana National Park (see oñana National Park
the Federación Andaluza de well as rather more limited pp134–5), but other nature
Montañismo. Companies such opportunities for freshwater reserves in the region also
offer good opportunities for
wildflower- and bird-spotting.
Contact Iberian Wildlife for
tours. Several companies run
whale-watching trips out of
Tarifa harbour (see p173); among
them is the Foundation for
Information and Research
on Marine Mammals.
Equestrian Sports
The horse forms a proud part
of Andalucía’s traditions, as can
Hiking down from the Sierra Nevada through the Alpujarras be seen during Seville’s April