(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Seville & Andalucía

P ARQUE M AR Í A L UISA  99


EL
2 . Palacio de San Telmo ARENAL SANTA
This palace houses the Junta de CRUZ
Andalucía. Presiding over its
Churrigueresque doorway is a
statue of St Telmo. The impressive Guadalquivir
architecture is the highlight.
PARQUE
MARÍA ÍA Í
Puerta de Jerez LUISA
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 3, 5
To Santa Cruz
R O M A
A V E N I D A D E









1 Hotel Alfonso XIII
Seville’s premier hotel, with a
sumptuous Neo-Mudéjar
interior, welcomes non-guests to
have a drink in its elegant bar.



L A R A B I D A P A L O S

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To Parque María Luisa


3 . Universidad
The vast 18th-century former
Royal Tobacco Factory has
many fine features, including
this Baroque fountain.
4 Teatro Lope de Vega
This grandiose theatre and
casino, the 1929 Pabellón de
Sevilla, is now a major venue for
staging concerts and shows.

100  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


1Hotel Alfonso XIII
Calle San Fernando 2. Map 3 C3 (6 D5).
v Puerta Jerez.  Puerta Jerez.
@ C5. Tel 954 91 70 00. 7
∑ hotel-alfonsoxiii-sevilla.com
At the southeast corner of
Puerta de Jerez is Seville’s
best-known luxury hotel,
named after King Alfonso XIII
who reigned 1902–31, when
Spain became a republic. It
was built between 1916 and
1928 for visitors to the 1929
Ibero-American Exposition (see
p59). The building is in Regio- Central patio with fountain in the elegant Hotel Alfonso XIII
nalista style, decorated with
azulejos (see p80), wrought iron glorious Parque María Luisa 3Universidad
and ornate brickwork. Its centre- (pp102–3). The palace became Calle San Fernando 4. Map 3 C3.
piece is a grand colonnaded a seminary in 1901, and today it v Puerta Jerez.  Puerta de Jerez.
patio with a fountain and is the presidential headquarters @ 5, 21, 34, C1, C2, C3, C4. Tel 954 55
orange trees. Non-residents of the Junta de Andalucía (the 11 23. Open 8am–8:30pm Mon–Sat.
are welcome to visit one of regional government). 8 11am Mon–Thu except in Aug
the hotel’s bars or restaurants. Overlooking Avenida de (free); 9:30am–12:30pm & 4–6pm Fri &
Roma is the palace’s star feature, 9:30am–12:30pm Sat (by appt).
the exuberant Churrigueresque ∑ us.es
portal designed by architect
Antonio Matías de Figueroa, and The former Real Fábrica de
completed in 1734. Surrounding Tabacos (Royal Tobacco Factory)
the Ionic columns are allegorical is now part of Seville University.
figures of the Arts and Sciences. It was a popular attraction for
St Telmo can be seen holding 19th-century travellers in search
a ship and charts, flanked by of Romantic Spain. Three-quarters
the sword-bearing St Ferdinand of Europe’s cigars were then
and St Hermenegildo with manufactured here, rolled on the
a cross. thighs of over 3,000 cigarreras
The north façade, which (female cigar-makers), who were
is on Avenida de Palos de la said “to be more impertinent
Frontera, is crowned by a row of than chaste”, as the writer Richard
sculptures of Sevillian celebrities. Ford observed in his 1845
These sculptures were added Handbook for Spain. The factory
Churrigueresque adornments of the portal in 1895 by Susillo. Among them complex is the largest building
of Palacio de San Telmo are representations of several in Spain after El Escorial in Madrid
notable artists such as Murillo, and was built between 1728–
2Palacio de Montañés and Velázquez. 71. The moat and watchtowers
San Telmo
Carmen
Avenida de Roma s/n. Map 3 C3.
v Puerta Jerez.  Puerta de Jerez. The hot blooded cigarreras
@ 3, 5, 21, 37, 41, C3, C4, C5. Tel 955 working in Seville’s Royal Tobacco
00 10 10. Open Thu, Sat & Sun by Factory inspired the French author,
appointment only. ^ 7 8 Prosper Mérimée, to create his
∑ juntadeandalucia.es famous gypsy heroine, Carmen.
The short story he wrote in 1845
This imposing palace was built tells the tragic tale of a sensual
in 1682 to serve as a marine and wild woman who turns her
university, training navigators affections from a soldier to a
and high-ranking officers. It is bullfighter and is then murdered
by her spurned lover. Bizet based
named after St Telmo, patron his famous opera of 1875 on this
saint of navigators. In 1849 the impassioned drama, which
palace became the residence established Carmen as an
of the Dukes of Montpensier – incarnation of Spanish romance.
until 1893 its vast grounds Carmen and Don José
included what is now Seville's
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229

P ARQUE M AR Í A L UISA  101


show the importance given to 5Parque María and cooperage. There is also an
protecting the king’s lucrative Luisa informative account of the history
tobacco monopoly. To the right of the azulejo. Upstairs is a display
of the main entrance is the See pp102–3. of 19th-century costumes,
former prison where workers furniture, musical instruments
caught smuggling tobacco were and rural machinery. Romantic
kept. To the left is the chapel, 6Plaza de España images of flamenco, bullfighting,
now used by university students. Parque María Luisa. Map 4 D3 & D4 and the Semana Santa and Feria
The discovery of tobacco in the de Abril (see p42) are a compen-
New World is celebrated in the This impressive semicircular dium of the Sevillian cliché.
principal portal, which has busts plaza was designed by architect
of Columbus (see p131) and Cortés. Anibal González as the centre-
This part of the factory was once piece for the 1929 Ibero- 8Museo
used as residential quarters – American Exposition. A series Arqueológico
to either side of the vestibule lie of alcoves decorated with
patios with plants and ironwork. stunning tiles each represent a Plaza de América, Parque María Luisa.
Ahead, the Clock Patio and Spanish province and depict the Map 4 D5. @ 1, 3, 6, 30, 31, 34, 37.
Fountain Patio lead to the former history of Spain. The imposing Tel 955 12 06 32. Open 9am–7:30pm
working areas. The tobacco Renaissance–Neo-Moorish Tue–Sat, 9am–2:30pm Sun (Jun–mid-
leaves were first dried on the building fronting the plaza, with Sep: 9am–2:30pm Tue–Sun). ^ 7
roof, then shredded by donkey- its North and South towers, is a
powered mills below. Production major city landmark. A canal The Renaissance pavilion of
now takes place in a factory on follows the curve of the the 1929 Ibero-American
the other side of the river, by building's façade and is crossed Exposition is now Andalucía’s
the Puente del Generalísimo. by colourful footbridges. museum of archaeology. The
basement houses Paleolithic
to early-Roman exhibits, such
7Museo de Artes as copies of the remarkable
y Costumbres Tartessian Carambolo treasures
(see p47). This hoard of 6th-
Populares century BC gold jewellery was
discovered near Seville in 1958.
Pabellón Mudéjar, Parque María Luisa.
Map 4 D5. @ 1, 3, 6, 30, 31, 34, 37. Upstairs, the main galleries are
Tel 955 54 29 51. Open 9am–7:30pm devoted to the Roman era, with
Tue–Sat, 9am–2:30pm Sun (Jun–mid- statues and fragments rescued
Sep: 9am–2:30pm Tue–Sun). ^ 7 from Itálica (see p136). Highlights
include a 3rd-century BC mosaic
Housed in the Mudéjar Pavilion from Écija (see p137), a statue of
of the 1929 Ibero-American the Venus of Itálica and sculptures
Dome of the Neo-Baroque Teatro Lope Exposition (see p59), this museum of local-born emperors Trajan
de Vega, opened in 1929 is devoted to the popular arts and Hadrian. The rooms continue
and traditions of Andalucía. to Moorish Spain via Palaeo-
4Teatro Lope Exhibits in the basement include Christian sarcophagi, Visigothic
de Vega workshop scenes detailing crafts relics and artifacts from Medina
such as leatherwork, ceramics Azahara (see p142).
Avenida María Luisa s/n. Map 3 C3.
v &  Prado de San Sebastian.
@ 5, 21, 34, C1, C2, C3, C4. Tel 955
47 28 28 (ticket office). Open for
performances only. 7
∑ teatrolopedevega.org.
Lope de Vega (1562–1635), often
called “the Spanish Shakespeare”,
wrote more than 1,500 plays.
This Neo-Baroque theatre which
honours him was opened in
1929 as a casino and theatre for
the Ibero-American Exposition
(see p59). Its colonnaded and
domed buildings are still used to
stage performances and plays
(see pp244–5). Visitors to the Café
del Casino can relax and enjoy a
coffee amid its faded opulence. Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares, the former Mudéjar Pavilion

102  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

5 Parque María Luisa

This vast park takes its name from Princess
María Luisa de Orléans, who donated part of
the grounds from the Palacio de San Telmo
(see p100) to the city in 1893. The area was
landscaped by Jean-Claude Forestier, director
of the Bois de Boulogne in Paris, who created
a leafy setting for the pastiche pavilions of
the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition (see p59).
The most dazzling souvenirs from this
extravaganza are the Plaza de España and 6. Plaza de España
Plaza de América, both the work of Anibal Tiled benches line this semicircular plaza,
centrepiece of the 1929 Exposition.epiece of the 1929 Exposition.
centr
González, which set the park’s theatrical
mood. Sprinkling fountains, flowers and
cool, tree-shaded avenues all go to make
this park a refreshing retreat from the
heat and dust of the city.

























KEY
1 Glorieta de la Infanta has a
bronze statue honouring the park’s
benefactress, the Princess María Luisa
de Orléans.
2 Glorieta de Bécquer, is a tribute
to the Romantic Sevillian poet,
Gustavo Adolfo Bécquer (1836–70).
Allegorical figures, depicting the
phases of love, add charm to this
monument. It was sculpted by
Lorenzo Coullaut Valera in 1911.
3 Starting point for horse and Isleta de los Patos
carriage rides In the centre of the
park is a lake graced
4 Pabellón Real (the Royal Pavilion) by ducks and swans.
5 The Monte Gurugú is a mini‑ A gazebo situated on
mountain with a tumbling waterfall. an island provides a
peaceful resting place.
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229

P ARQUE M AR Í A L UISA  103


Fuente de los Leones VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ceramic lions guard this octagonal fountain,
which is surrounded by myrtle hedges. Its Practical Information
design was inspired by the fountain in the Map 4 D4. Museo de Artes y
Patio de los Leones at the Alhambra (see p199). Costumbres Populares & Museo
Arqueológico (p101). 7
Transport
v &  Prado de San Sebastian.
@ C1, C2, C3, C4, EA, 1, 3, 6, 21,
22, 25, 26, 28, 29, 31, 30, 34, 38, 41.

8. Museo Arqueológico
The Neo-Renaissance Pabellón
de las Bellas Artes today houses
a regional archaeological
museum. Many finds from
nearby Roman Itálica (see p136)
are among the exhibits.




































7. Museo de Artes y Costumbres Populares
The pavilions of Plaza de América evoke the triumph of
the Mudéjar, Gothic and Renaissance styles. The Pabellón
Mudéjar houses a museum of Andalucían folk arts.

Ceramics
Brightly painted Sevillian ceramics from
Triana decorate the park in the form of
floral urns, tiled benches and playful frogs
and ducks placed around the fountains.



SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA  105

ACROSS THE RIVER

On the west bank of the Guadalquivir, old In the 15th century, a Carthusian monastery
Seville meets the new. Since Roman times, was built in what was then a quiet area north
pottery has been made in Triana, an area of Triana – hence the name that the district
named after the emperor Trajan. It has acquired: Isla de la Cartuja. Later Columbus
traditionally been a working-class district, resided here, planning his future exploits.
famous for the bullfighters and flamenco Mainly due to this connection, La Cartuja
artistes that came from its predominantly was the site for Expo ’92 (see pp108–9). The
Roma (gypsy) community. With cobbled monastery buildings were restored and several
streets and shops selling ceramics, it still has pavilions of strikingly modern design built. The
an authentic, lived-in feel. Iglesia de Santa majority of the pavilions now house offices; a
Ana is a fine Mudéjar-Gothic church. From the branch of the University of Seville is also here.
riverside restaurants and bars along Calle Betis The Expo site has been redeveloped to include
there are views of Seville’s towers and belfries. the Isla Mágica theme park (see p108).
Sights at a Glance
Theme Parks Churches and Monasteries Key
1 Isla Mágica 4 Monasterio de Santa María Seville city centre
2 Cartuja ’93 de las Cuevas Greater Seville
Markets 7 Iglesia de Nuestra Motorway
Señora de la O
3 Charco de la Pava 8 Iglesia de Santa Ana Major road
Flea Market
Modern Architecture Minor road
Traditional Areas
6 Triana pp106–7 5 Torre Sevilla
0 kilometres 1
0 miles 1 Córdoba

Huelva SE30 SE30
NORTE
GAMBOOGAZ AVENIDA DEL CONCEJAL ALBERTO JIMENEZ BECERRIL CALLE DEL DOCTOR FEDRIANI POLIGONO
AVE N IDA DE CAR L OS I II ISLA DE LA Guadalquivir RESOLANA CALLE MUÑOZ LEON AVENIDA DE MIRAFLORES NIV A4





CARTUJA
Guadalquivir CALLE DEL TORNEO LA MACARENA C MARIA AUXILIAD O RA A R R CARRETERA DE CARMONA




Plaza de AVENIDA DE KANSAS CITY
Armas Santa Justa
AVDA CRISTO DE LA EXPIRACION AV A
A49
CALLE DE MENENDEZ PELAYO CALLE LUIS DE MORALES
SANTA CRUZ A92
EL ARENAL CALLE DE LUIS MONTOTO
PASE O
DE
SAN
TRIANA BERNARDO
CRISTOBAL COLON
Cádiz
Looking towards Triana district and the bell tower of Iglesia de Santa Ann at sunset For keys to symbols see back flap

106  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

5 Triana
To Nuestra Callejón de la
Named after the Roman emperor Trajan, this quarter Señora de la Inquisición
has, since early times, been famous for its potteries. Plenty O (see p109) Castillo de San
of workshops still produce and sell tiles and ceramics. Once Jorge Inquisition
Museum (see p109)
Seville’s gypsy quarter, this barrio also has a reputation for
producing great bullfighters, sailors and flamenco artists.
It remains a traditional working-class district, with compact,
flower-filled streets and a tangibly independent atmosphere.
Visitors to Triana can buy tiles and wander through its narrow C A S T I L L A
streets during the day, and enjoy the lively bars and romantic
views across the Río Guadalquivir at night.

Centro Cerámica
Triana
Housed in the old C A M P O S S A N
Cerámica Santa
Ana factory, this J O R G E
museum features
tiles decorated by A N T I L L A N O P L A Z A
D E L
Anibal González A L T O Z A N O
and old kilns,
including some
from the 1500s.
C O V A D O N G A J A C I N T O
S A N







R O D R I G O
D E
Plaza del Altozano
At the west end of Puente de T R I A N A
Isabel II, this plaza features
glass-fronted, wrought-iron
balconies called miradores.
Santa Justa
and Santa Rufina
Two Christians working in
the Triana potteries in the
3rd century have become
Seville’s patron saints. The
city’s Roman rulers are said
to have thrown the young
women to the lions after they
refused to join a procession
venerating Venus. This
martyrdom has inspired
many works by Sevillian
artists, including Murillo
and Zurbarán (see pp70–71). Calle Rodrigo de Triana
The saints are often shown This street in white and ochre is
with the Giralda, which, named after the Andalucían sailor
apparently, they protected
Santa Justa and Santa Rufina as who first caught sight of the New
represented by Murillo (c.1665) from an earthquake in 1755. World on Columbus’s epic voyage
of 1492 (see p131).
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229

A CROSS THE RIVER  107

Capillita del Carmen
A chapel, built by LA MACARENA
Puente de Anibal González in
Isabel II, also 1926, stands at the EL ARENAL
known as west end of Puente SANTA
Puente de de Isabel II, an iron CRUZ
Triana, leads bridge designed by
to El Arenal. Guadalquivir
Gustavo Steinacher
ACROSS
and Fernando THE RIVER
Bernadet in 1845.
Locator Map
See Street Finder, map 3







Calle Betis, a hub of nightlife,
lined with bars, cafés and clubs.


Capilla de los
C A L L E
Marineros, a
sailors’ chapel,
B E T I S
was built between
1759 and 1815.
C A L L E
Calle Pelay Correa
D E
Hung with flowers and often
L A
washing, these narrow streets evoke
the close-knit flavour of old Triana.
F L O T A P U R E Z A
L U G O Abades Triana,
with its terrace
J U A N river, is renowned
overlooking the
T O R R I J O S cuisine (see p229).
for its creative
D U A R T E





P E L A Y

C O R R E A

Key
8 Iglesia de Santa Ana
Founded in the 13th century Suggested route
by Alfonso X, this is the oldest
parish church in Seville. Triana’s 0 metres 75
most popular place of worship,
it has been splendidly restored. 0 yards 75

108  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA


1Isla Mágica aimed at younger children. and private companies and are
Shows in the park include closed to visitors. Groups of
Pabellón de España, Isla de la Cartuja.
Map 1 B3. Tel 902 16 17 16. Open street performances and dance buildings south and east of the
times vary – see website for opening shows as well as IMAX cinema Parque Alamillo are part of Seville
hours (which change throughout the screenings. Check the Isla Magica University, which has links with
year) as well as package deals (hotel website for up-to-date informa- Cartuja ’93. To its south lie the
and park entry). & ∑ islamagica.es tion on shows and times. gardens surrounding the ancient
Monasterio de Santa María de las
Opened in 1997, the popular Cuevas, now housing a contem-
Isla Mágica theme park porary art museum (see p109).
occupies part of the Isla de
la Cartuja site redeveloped
for Expo ’92 (see pp60–61). 3Charco de la
The park recreates the exploits Pava Flea Market
of the explorers who set out
from Seville in the 16th century Open Sun am.
on voyages of discovery to the
New World. The first of the seven Situated beyond the Olympic
zones which visitors experience Stadium, along the River
is Seville, Port of the Indies, Guadalquivir, is the Charco de
followed by the Gateway to the La Pava flea market. The market
Americas, the World of the Maya, occupies a large open space on
the Pirate’s Lair, El Dorado and the far side of the Cartuja and is
Agua Mágica. The Jaguar is the held on Sunday mornings. It is a
most thrilling ride for visitors – popular spot among locals and
a rollercoaster hurtling at 85 km/h tourists who come here for a
(53 mph) along its looping leisurely browse through the
course, but head also for The The Pabellón de Europa, built on Isla de bric-a-brac. Stretched out along
Anaconda, a flume ride, and The la Cartuja for Expo ’92 the ground are all manner of
Orinoco Rapids on which small goods for sale, from rusty farming
boats are buffeted in swirling 2Cartuja ’93 tools to brass ornaments,
water. The Fountain of Youth is Paseo del Oeste (renamed Calle paintings and old photographs.
designed for children, with Leonardo da Vinci). Map 1 A3. The market was, for many years,
carousels and fighting pirates. held at Alameda de Hércules
For an additional fee, Agua This science and technology (see p92) in the Macarena area
Mágica offers four zones of park occupies the western side in Northern Seville.
water-based fun. Playa Quetzal of the Expo ’92 site. Visitors can Stop for lunch in the Torre
has a large swimming pool with walk along Calle Leonardo da Sevilla, where there are
simulated waves and a beach; Vinci and the service roads for restaurants and bars, or enjoy a
Isla de Tobagones is a maze of close-up views of some of Expo relaxed meal while listening to
waterslides; Rio Lento features ’92’s most spectacular pavilions. jazz at the Centro Andaluz de
a slow-moving river that visitors These buildings, however, now Arte Contemporáneo cafeteria.
can float down; and Mini Paraiso part of the Andalucían World
has a pool and smaller slides Trade Centre, belong to public
4Monasterio
de Santa María
de las Cuevas
Calle Americo Vespucio 2, Isla de la
Cartuja. Map 1 A4. Tel 955 03 70 70.
Monastery & Centro Andaluz de Arte
Contemporaneo: Open 11am–9pm
Tue–Sat, 11am–3:30pm Sun & public
hols. & (free Tue–Fri 7–9pm &
11am–9pm Sat). 7 8
∑ museosdeandalucia.es
This huge complex, which was
built by the Carthusian monks
in the 15th century, is closely
tied to Seville’s history. Columbus
stayed and worked here, and
even lay buried in the crypt of
Reconstructed wooden ship at the Isla Mágica theme park the church, Capilla Santa
For hotels and restaurants in this area see p216 and p229

A CROSS THE RIVER  109
















Main entrance of the Carthusian Monasterio de Santa María de las Cuevas, founded in 1400
Ana, from 1507 to 1542. The Argentinian architect César Pelli, Virgin and Child with silver
Carthusians lived here until 1836 the 180-m- (590-ft-) tall tower haloes, attributed to Duque
and commissioned some of the opened in 2017 with 40 floors. Cornejo, in the far chapel to the
finest works of the Seville School, The Eurostars Torre Sevilla five- left as you enter. On the other
including masterpieces by star hotel occupies the top side of the high altar is a fine
Zurbarán and Montañés – these 12 storeys (see p216). The group by Pedro Roldán depicting
are now housed in the Museo remaining floors are used as St Anne, St Joachim and Mary,
de Bellas Artes (see pp70–71). commercial office and retail the Virgin; a Jesus of Nazareth
In 1841 Charles Pickman, space. Next to the complex is bearing his cross in the main
a British industrialist, built a the CaixaForum Seville cultural chapel is by the same sculptor.
ceramics factory on the site. and arts centre, and a shopping The church is in Calle de Castilla,
After decades of successful mall with more than 80 shops. whose name comes from the
business, production ceased notorious castle in Triana where
in 1980 and the monastery the Inquisition had its head-
was restored as a central exhibit 6Triana quarters from the 16th century.
for Expo ’92. Also of interest are See pp106–7. The castle houses a museum
the Capilla de Afuera by the dedicated to the Inquisition.
main gate, and the Casa Prioral,
which has an exhibition of the 8Iglesia de
restoration. There is a Mudéjar
cloister, made of of marble and Santa Ana
brick. The chapter house has a Entrance at Calle Vázquez de Leca 1.
number of tombstones of rich Map 3 B2. Tel 954 27 08 85.
patrons of the monastery. Open 10:30am–1:30pm Mon,
The Centro Andaluz de 11am–1:30pm Thu.
Arte Contemporáneo features
contemporary art exhibitions, One of the first churches built in
as part of the Museo de Arte Seville after the Reconquest (see
Contemporaneo. The centre’s pp52–3), Santa Ana was founded
permanent collection is mostly in 1276 but has been much
by 20th-century Andalucían remodelled over the centuries.
artists while its temporary Today it is a focal point for the
exhibitions include paintings, The colourful belfry of Nuestra Señora residents and cofradias (the
photographs, installations and de la O in Triana religious brotherhoods) of Triana.
performance art by international The vaulting of the nave is
artists. Past exhibitions have 7Iglesia de Nuestra similar to Burgos cathedral’s
featured everything from Señora de la O vaulting, suggesting that the
sculpture to digital art. same architect worked on the
C/ Castilla. Map 3 A1. Tel 954 33 75 39. two churches. The west end of
Open daily. Castillo de San Jorge the nave has a 16th-century
5Torre Sevilla Inquisition Museum: Tel 954 33 22 40. retablo, richly carved by Alejo
Open 9am–1:30pm Mon–Fri, Fernández. The sacramental
C/ Gonzalo Jiménez de Quesada 2. @ 10am–2pm Sat, Sun & hols.
C1, C2, 6 & 43. ∑ torre-sevilla.com chapel in the north wall has
a Plateresque entrance.
Located on the southern edge The Church of Our Lady of O, In the baptistery is the Pila
of La Cartuja, the Torre Sevilla built in the late 17th century, de los Gitanos, or Gypsy Font,
presides over the Guadalquivir has a belfry decorated with which is believed to pass on
river and offers commanding locally made azulejos. Inside, the gift of flamenco song to
panoramic views. Designed by Baroque sculptures include a the children of the faithful.

110  SE VILLE AREA B Y AREA

A90-Minute Walk in Seville

This walk begins in one of the city’s most elegant parks and explores one of its
oldest barrios (neighbourhoods): the medieval Jewish quarter of Santa Cruz. The
tiny alleys and squares of Santa Cruz conceal a museum to one of the city’s great
painters, Murillo, as well as a host of churches and many crafts galleries and
restaurants. The walk then takes you through Seville’s grandest square before
heading for the Guadalquivir River, a historic bridge and the Triana area, famous
for its ceramics district and the birthplace of Seville’s flamenco culture. MARTIN VILLA

Key CALLE SAN ELOY C C ALLE
Walk route PABLO MURILLO O'DONNELL VELAZQUEZ SIERPES
C CAN ALEJAS 7 LO L CALLE RIOJA OLIVE 6
MUÑOZ
C SAN CALLE DE MORATIN C MÉNDEZ NUÑEZ TETUAN
AT
A
C CARLOS CAÑAL
REYES CATOLICOS SANTAS PATRONAS ZAR AGOZA PLAZA FRANCISCO
CALLE
AT
A
CALLE ALMANSA
PLAZA
NUEVA
DE SAN
Plaza
A
AV
Nueva
CALLE DE
ARJONA
L
LA
8 GENIL PASTOR Y LANDERO CALLE CASTELAR AVENIDA DE LA CONSTITUCION
GARCIA DE VINUESA
REQUENA CALLAO Puente de Isabel II
CALLE DE ADRIANO
PLAZA
(Puente de Triana)
PLAZA
9 P A S E O ANTO N I A DI AZ CABILDO
PLAZA DEL
A sun-drenched alley in the neighbourhood JACINTO ALTOZANO CALLE D E
of Santa Cruz ROCIO DOS DE MAYO
SAN FABIE BETIS G u a d a l q u i v i r C R I S T O B A L ADOLFO
Plaza Santa Cruz to the FLOTA C DE LA PUREZA RODRIGUEZ
JURADO
Z Z
Rio Guadalquivir VICTORIA 0 q SANTANDER
0
The small Santa Cruz square, C O L Ó N
PASEO ALCADE MARQUÉS DE CONTADERO
with its birdcage and garden, CALLE ALMTE
sits close to both the Jardines PAGES DEL CORRO C PELAY CORREA Puerta de
A
LOBO
AY
AV. SANJURJO
AV. SANJURJO
de Murillo 1, where there is a Opposite is the 16th- CALLE DE TROYA BETIS Jerez AV. SANJURJO
Puente de
monument to Columbus, and century Convento San José FORTALEZA San Telmo w
w
the walls of the Real Alcázar. del Carmen, also known as ROSARIO JARDINES DE
CRISTINA
VEGA
Take Calle Santa Teresa past Convento de las Teresas, an
the museum and birthplace order of the Carmelites. Turning Plaza PLAZA DE
CUBA
of painter Bartolomé Esteban right near the top of Calle de de Cuba
Murillo (1618–82) 2; the pieces Mateos Gago, you pass the
held here are minor compared 17th-century Iglesia de Santa
to those kept in the Museo Cruz 3 with its triple carillon. Take a sharp right into Calle
des Bellas Artes (see pp70–71). Turn left into Calle Guzman El Hernando Colon, where odd
Bueno (“Guzman the little shops selling collectables
Good”), named after the jostle with souvenir stores.
defender of Tarifa during Colon leads into Plaza de San
the Moorish invasion. Francisco and the Ayunta-
Calle Guzman features miento 5 (town hall), begun
some classic town in 1527 by architect Diego
mansions built around de Riaño. It is one of the best
spacious interior patios. examples of Renaissance
Cross into the Argote de architecture in Spain. Cross
Molina and walk behind the square to Calle Sierpes,
the Palacio Arcobispal 4 one of Seville’s oldest shopping
down to the gates of the streets. Sierpes is the place to
cathedral courtyard, the buy fans, mantilla shawls and
chief remaining Moorish hats, not least at Maquedano
section of this building; (No. 40) 6 which always has
worshippers would wash an impressive window display.
here before entering Where Sierpes meets tiny
Patio of a house in the Santa Cruz quarter the original mosque. Plaza La Campana, turn left
For keys to symbols see back flap

A GUIDED W ALK  111


Tips for Walkers
Starting point: Plaza Santa Cruz.
Length: 3.5 km (2 miles).
Getting there: Plaza Santa
Cruz is a short walk from Calle
de Menéndez Pelayo, close to the
Real Alcazar and Cathedral.
Stopping-off points: María
Trifulca, on Puente de Isabel II, has
tables overlooking the river and a
rooftop terrace. It’s a great place to
stop for a drink or a seafood meal.
CALLE
C UNA
Puente de Isabel II to Puente
7 Iglesia de la Magdalena, completed in 1709 de San Telmo
PLAZA The bridge enters the barrio of
SALVADOR
on Calle Martin Villa to Plaza Triana, forever associated with
del Duque de la Victoria and its flamenco, bullfighting and
5 ALVAREZ QUI NTERO FRDERICO RUBIO MUÑOZ Y statue of Velazquez. Turn right
into Calle San Eloy; at its end is
ARGOTE DE MOLINA GUZMAN EL VIR G E N E S S A N J O SE the Iglesia de la Magdalena 7,
a church built in 1709 on the
CALLE AIRE
4
BUENO
remains of an earlier Moorish
PLAZA mosque. Its interior features
HERNAN COLON
VIRGEN DE ANGELES XIMENEZ
LOS REYES C MATEOS GAGO 3 DE ENCISO works by Zurbarán and Valdés,
and its exquisite representation
2 of the Virgen del Amparo
PLAZA DEL RUEDA PLAZA
TRIUNFO PLAZA REFINADORES (protection) is a star of the
LOPE DE
DOÑA
Archivo de Indias ELVIRA 1 Easter Semana Santa pro-
MIGUEL JARDINES DE cessions. It is claimed she
MAÑARA
MURILLO
PLAZA
CONTRATACION intervened on behalf of
JARDINES DEL MENENDEZ PELAYO petitioners during the after- María Trifulca restaurant on Puente
ALCÁZAR shocks of the 1755 earthquake de Isabel II (Puente Triana)
PUERTA and in the 19th century
DE JEREZ DE
Puerta de Jerez
e C the church served as a ceramics (azulejos). For
refuge for homeless workshops and shops,
PLAZA children. Circle to the bear right into Calles San
CALLE SAN FERNANDO
DON JUAN
DE AUSTRIA front of the church and Jorge and then left into
right into Calle San Antillano 9 and Alfareria.
Pablo, which becomes This runs into Calle
JARDINES DE Reyes Catolicos, leading Rodrigo de Triana. Turn
SAN TELMO GLORIETA
PA LO S D E LA FRONTERA
SAN DIEGO straight to Puente left into Calle Victoria
de Isabel II 8. Built and right into Pelay
in 1852 on the founda- Azulejos of Santa Correa to reach Seville’s
tions of a long-lost Ana church in Triana oldest church, the 13th-
12th-century Arab century Iglesia Santa Ana
0 metres 300
bridge, it is also known 0. Its interior features major
0 yards 300 as Puente de Triana. works by 16th-century sculptors
such as Jurate and Ocampo.
Behind the church, take a right
on Triana’s bar-lined riverfront,
Calle Betis q, with views across
to the Plaza de Toros, the Torre
del Oro and, to the left, sculptor
Eduardo Chillida’s modernist
peace monument, La Tolerancia
(Tolerance). Betis runs to the 1931
Puente de San Telmo, which
leads to the Jardines de Cristina
w, a major bus hub, and to Calle
San Fernando e, which passes
the Universidad and continues
8 Puente de Isabel II, stretching over the Guadalquivir river to the Jardines de Murillo.

112  SE VILLE STREE T FINDER

STREET FINDER


Key
Major sight
VIADUCTO DEL ALAMILLO URBANA NORTE Place of interest
Guadalquivir VA V DOCTOR FEDRIANI Other building
NUEVA TORNEO
Railway station
Bus terminus
CALLE DEL TORNEO SAN LUIS AVENIDA DE LA BARZOLA River boat boarding point
Parking
Tourist information
La Macarena
Hospital
Police station
ALFONSO XII
Church
Santa Cruz Convent and Monastery
ARJONA
LUIS MONTOTO Railway line
El Arenal
Pedestrianized street
A
AT Metro station
EDUARDO DATO
REPUBLICA ARGENTINA P PA DE Parque ENRAMADILLA Metro-Centro tram stop
Maríaíaí
PASEO
Luisa
L
LA
VIRGEN DE LUJAN Guadalquivir LAS DELICIAS
Scale of Maps 1–2 & 3–4 Scale of Maps 5–6
0 metres 250 0 metres 150
1: 13,000 1: 8,250
0 yards 250 0 yards 150
Key to abbreviations used in the Street Finder
Avda Avenida d de, del, de la, Pl Plaza Sra Señora
C Calle de las, de los Po Paseo Sta Santa
A Alejo Fernández 4 D2 (6 F4) Amapola, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Ardilla, C de la 3 A3
Abad Gordillo, C d 2 C5 (5 B2) Alemanes, Calle 3 C2 (6 D4) Amargura, Calle 2 D4 Arenal, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4)
Amatista, Calle
2 E2
4 E1
Alerce, Calle
4 F5
Arenal, Calle
Abades, C de los 3 C1 (6 D4) Alfalfa, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) América, Plaza de 1 B2
Abogado R Medina, C 2 E2 Alfalfa, Plaza del 3 C1 (6 D3) América, Plaza de 4 D5 Arfe, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4)
Abril, Calle 2 F2 Alfaqueque, Calle 1 B5 (5 B1) Amistad, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Argote de Molina, C 3 C1 (6 D4)
Abuyacub, Calle 2 F3 Alfarería, Calle de 3 A1 Amor de Dios, C d 1 C5 (5 C1) Arguijo, Calle 2 D5 (6 D2)
Acetres, Calle 3 C1 (6 D2) Alfaro, Plaza 4 D2 (6 E5) Amores, Pasaje de 2 D4 Arjona, Calle de 3 A1 (5 A3)
Adelantado, Calle 2 D3 Alfonso de Cossio, C 4 E4 Amparo, Calle del 6 D1 Armas, Plaza de 1 B5 (5 A2)
Adolfo R Jurado, C 5 C5 Alfonso de Orleans y Andreu, Pasaje 6 D4 Armenta, Calle 6 E3
Adriano, Calle de 3 B2 (5 B4) Borbón, C de 3 A5 Andueza, Calle de 2 D3 Arqueros, Calle 3 A4
Agata, Calle 2 E1 Alfonso XII, C de 1 B5 (5 B2) Angel María Arrayán, Calle 2 D4
Aguamarina, Calle 2 E2 Alfonso XIII, Puente de 3 C5 Camacho, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Arroyo, Calle de 2 F5
Aguiar, Calle 1 B5 (5 A2) Algamitas, Calle 2 F3 Angeles, Calle 3 C2 (6 D4) Arte de la Seda, C 1 C3
Aguilas, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Alhelí, Calle 2 F3 Aniceto Saenz, C d 2 E4 Artemisa, Calle 2 E5 (6 F1)
Aire, Calle del 3 C1 (6 D4) Alhóndiga, C d 2 D5 (6 E2) Animas, Calle 3 A4 Asunción, C d 3 B3
Alameda de Hércules 2 D4 Almadén d Plata, C 2 F4 Antilla, Playa de la 2 E2 Atanasio Barrón, C 4 D1 (6 F4)
Alamillo, Viaducto del 1 A1 Almansa, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4) Antillano, Calle 3 A2 Ateneo, Pasaje 3 C1 (5 C3)
Alamillo, Puente del 2 D1 Almensilla, Calle 2 F3 Antolínez, Calle 1 C5 (5 B1) Atienza, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1)
Albacara, Calle 2 E3 Almirante Lobo, C 3 B2 (5 C5) Antonia Díaz, C d 3 B2 (5 B4) Augusto Peyre, C 4 D5
Albaida, Calle de la 2 F3 Almirante Tenorio, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2) Antonia Saenz, C d 2 E4 A Plasencia, C 3 C1 (6 D3)
Albareda, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3) Almirante Topete, C d 4 F5 Antonio Bienvenida, C 3 B5 Aurora, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4)
Alberto Lista, C d 6 D1 Almirante Ulloa, C d 5 B2 Antonio Martelo, Plaza 2 F5 Autonomía, Plaza 2 F3
Albuera, Calle 3 A1 (5 A3) Almonacid, Calle 4 E3 Antonio M Montaner, C 4 E5
Alcaicería d Loza, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Alonso Tello, Calle 4 E2 Antonio Pantión, C 2 E3 Ave María, Calle 6 E2
Alcalde Isacio Altozano, Pl del 3 A2 (5 A4) Antonio Salado, C 1 B5 (5 B2) Avellana, Calle 2 E3
Contreras, C 4 D2 (6 F4) Alvarez Quintero, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Antonio Susillo, C 2 D4 Averroes, Calle 4 E1
Alcalde Marqués Alvaro Alonso Barba, Avda 1 C2 Aponte 1 C5 (5 C2) Azafrán, Calle del 2 E5 (6 E2)
d Contadero, Po 3 B2 (5 B4) Amadeo Jannone, Pl 3 A3 Aposentadores, C 2 D5 (6 D1) Aznalcazar, Calle 4 F3
Alcázares, C de 2 D5 (6 D2) Amador de los Arapiles, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2) Aznalcollar, Calle 4 F3
Alcores, Pasaje los 4 D1 (6 E4) Ríos, Calle 4 E1 (6 F2) Archeros, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Aznalfarache, Calle 2 E3
Alcoy, Calle de 1 C4 Amante Laffon, C 2 F3 Arcos, Calle 3 B3 Azofaifo, Calle 5 C2

SE VILLE STREE T FINDER  113

B Celinda, Calle 6 E3 Diego M Barrios, C 4 F5 F
6 F2
2 F2
Badajoz 3 B1 (5 C3) Cenicero, Calle 1 B5 (5 B2) Diego Puerta, Calle 2 E3 F. A. Toledo, Calle 2 E3
Cepeda, Calle
Dionisio A Galiano, C
Bailén, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B2) Cerrajería, Calle 5 C2 Divina Pastora, Calle 2 D4 Fabie, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5)
Bajeles, Calle 1 B5 (5 A1) Cerro Murlano, Calle 4 F5 Fabiola, Calle 4 D1 (6 E4)
Bamberg, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Cervantes, Calle 6 D1 Dobe Levadizo, Puente de 3C5 Fancelli, Calle 2 D3
Baños, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B1) Céspedes, C d 4 D1 (6 E4) Doctor Antonio Cortés Farnesio, Calle 6 E4
Barcelona, Calle 3 B1 (5 C3) Cetina, Calle 2 E4 Lladó, Calle 4 E4 Faustino Alvarez, Calle 2 D3
Barco, Calle 2 D4 Chapina, Puente del 3 A1 Doctor Arruga, Calle 2 F5 Febo, Calle de 3 A3
Barqueta, Puente de la 1 C3 Chavez Nogales 4 E2 Doctor Barraquer, Pl del 2 D2 Federico Rubio, C de 6 E3
Barrau, Calle 4 E3 Chicuelo, Calle de 3 A5 Doctor Delgado Roig, C 2 F5 Federico Sánchez
Barzola, Avenida de la 2F2 Chile, Avenida de 3 C3 Doctor Domínguez Rodiño 2 E2 Bedolla, C 3 B2 (5 C4)
Basílica, Calle 2 D3 Chipiona, Playa de 2 E2 Doctor Fedriani, C d 2 E2 Felipe II, Calle de 4 D5
Bécquer, Calle de 2 D3 Cidro, Calle de 2 E1 Doctor Félix Rodríguez Feria, Calle de la 2 D4
Begonia, Calle 2 F3 Circo, Calle 3 B2 (5 B4) de la Fuente, Calle 3 A3 Fernán Caballero, C d 5 B2
Béjar, Calle 3 A3 Ciriaco Esteban 3 B1 (5 B3) Doctor Gabriel Sánchez Fernán Sánchez Tovar, C 2 E3
Benidorm, Calle 3 A1 (5 A3) 3 A2 (5 A5) de la Cuesta, Calle 4 E3 Fernández de Ribera, C 4 F3
Bernal Vidal 3 A2 (5 A5) Cisne, Calle Doctor Herrera Carmona, Calle 2 E2 Fernández Ardavin, C 2 F1
Bernardo de Toro, C 2 F2 Cisneros, Calle 5 B1 Doctor Jaime Marcos, C 2 E2 Fernández de Guadalupe, C 2 F4
Bernardo Guerra, Calle 3 B2 (5 B5) Ciudad de Ronda, Calle 4 D3 Doctor Jiménez Díaz, C 2 F3 Fernández y
Betis, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5) Clavijo, Calle del 1 C4 Doctor Leal Castaño, C 2 E2 Gonzáles, C 3 C1 (5 C4)
Bilbao, Calle 3 B1 (5 C3) Cofia, Calle 4 E2 (6 F5) Doctor Letamendi, Fernando de Mata, C 2 F2
Blanca Paloma, C 2 F2 Colombia, Calle 4 D5 Calle del 2 D4 (6 D1) Fernando Tirado, C 4 F2
Blanco de los Ríos, C 6 D3 Compañia, Calle de 6 D2 Doctor Lupiañez, C 2 F3 Fernando IV, Calle de 3 A4
Blasco de Garay, Plaza 1 B5 (5 A1) Compás del Porvenil, C 4 D4 Doctor Marañón, Calle 2 E2 Fernando Villalón, Calle 4 E4
Blasco Ibáñez, C 2 F1 Concepción, Calle 6 F3 Doctor Morote Calafat, C 2E2 Filipinas, Calle 4 E4
Bobby Deglané, Calle 5 B3 Concha Espina, Calle 3 A3 Flecha, Calle 2 D3
Bogotá, Calle de 4 D5 Concordia, Plaza de la 5 C1 Doctor Muñoz Peralta, C 2 E2 Florencia, Calle 2 F5
Borbolla, Avenida de 4 D5 Conde de Barajas, Doctor Pedro Castro, C 4 D3 Florencio Quintero, C 2 E4
Bordador Rodríguez Calle de 1 C4 (5 C1) Doctor Relimpio, Calle 2 E5 Florida, Calle d 4 D1 (6 F4)
Ojeda, Calle 2 E4 Conde de Cifuentes, C 4 D2 (6 E5) Doctor Royo, Calle 2 E2 Flota, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5)
Bosque, Calle 4 E1 Conde d Colombia, Avda 3 C4 Doctor Seras, Calle 2 E2 Fortaleza, Calle 3 B3
Boteros, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Conde d Halçón, Avda d 2 F3 Dolores Fernández, Pl 2 E3 Francisco Carrión Mejias, Calle 6 E2
Brasil, Calle 4 D4 Conde d Ibarra, C 4 D1 (6 E3) Don Alonso El Sabio, C 6 D2 Francisco de Ariño, C 2 F4
Brenes, Calle 2 F2 Conde de Torrejón, Don Fadrique, Calle 2 D3 Francisco Moraga, C 2 F4
Brillante, Calle 2 E2 Calle 2 D4 (6 D1) Don Juan de Austria, Pl 4 D3 Francos, C d 3 C1 (6 D3)
4 D1 (6 F3)
Buen Suceso, Plaza 6 D2 Conde Negro, C Don Pedro Niño, Fray Alonso, C 4 D1 (6 F3)
Buiza y Mensaque, Calle 3 C1 Conil, Playa de 2 E2 Calle de 2 D5 (6 D1) Fray Ceferino
(6 D2) Constancia, Calle 3 A3 Don Pelayo, Avda 4 D4 González, C 3 C2 (6 D4)
Bustos Tavera, C 2 D5 (6 E2) Constantina, Calle 2 F2 Doña Carmen, Pl 2 D5 (6 E2) Fray de Deza, Calle 5 A2
Butrón, Calle de 2 E5 (6 F1) Constitución, Doña Clarines, C 4 F5 Fray Diego de Cádiz, C 2 E4
Avenida de la 3 C1 (5 C4) Doña Elvira, Pl de 3 C2 (6 D5) Fray Isidoro de Sevilla, C 2 E3
C Contratación, Pl d 3 C2 (6 D5) Doña María Fray Luis de Granada, C 2 E3
2 E2
Coral, Calle
Córdoba, Calle 6 D3 Coronel, C 2 D5 (6 E2) Fray Pedro de Zúñiga, C 4 F2
Caballerizas, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Corinto Aceituno, C 2 E4 Dos de Mayo, C 3 B2 (5 C5) Fray Serafín Madrid, C 2 F1
Cabeza del Rey Corral del Rey, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Dos Hermanas, C 4 D2 (6 E4) Fresno, Calle 2 E1
Don Pedro, Calle 6 E3 Drs. Glez Meneses, C 2 E2 Froilán de la Serna, C 2 E3
2 E3
Cabildo, Plaza 3 C2 (5 C4) Correa de Arauxo, C 1 A1 Duarte, Calle 3 B2 (5 B5) Fuente, Plaza de la 2 F3
Cabo Noval, Calle 3 C1 Corta, Puente de la 1 C5 (5 C1) Dueñas, Calle 2 D5 (6 E1) Fuenteovejuna, Calle 4 E2
Cachorro, Puente d 3 A1 Cortes, Calle las Duende, Calle 3 B1 (5 C4)
Cádiz, Avenida de 4 D2 (6 E5) Costa de la Luz, C 4 F3 Duque Cornejo, C 2 E4 G
Calafate, Calle 3 A3 Costa Rica, Calle 4 E4 Duque de la
Calatrava, Calle 1 C3 Costillares, Calle 3 A5 Victoria, Pl del 1 C5 (5 C2) G. Azcarate, Calle 2 F3
Caleria, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Coullaut Valera, Calle 4 E5 Duque d Montemar, C 2 D4 G. Moscardo, Calle 5 C2
California, Calle 4 E4 Covadonga, Calle 3 A2 Duque d Veragua, C 5 B1 Galena, Calle 2 E2
Callao, Plaza 3 A2 (5 A4) Crédito, Calle 1 C4 Galera, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3)
Callejón de Pazos 4 D2 Crisantemo, Calle 2 F3 Galindo, Calle 6 D3
Camino de Almez 2 E1 Cristo de Burgos, Plaza 6 E2 E Gallinato, Calle 4 E2 (6 F5)
Camino de los Cristo de la Expiración, Gallos, Calle de 2 E5 (6 F1)
Descubrimientos 1 B4 Avenida del 3 A1 (5 A3) Eduardo Cano, Calle 1 B4 Gamazo, Calle 3 B1 (5 C4)
Campamento, Calle 4 E3 Cristo del Calvario, C 5 B3 Eduardo Dato, Avda d 4 E2 Gandesa, Calle 6 D3
Campo de los Mártires, C 4 E1 Cristóbal Colón, Eduardo Rivas, Calle 4 F2 Garci-Pérez, Calle 6 E3
Campos, Calle 3 A2 Paseo de 3 B2 (5 B4) Ejército Español, Pl 4 D3 Garci Fernández, Calle 2 F4
Canalejas, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3) Cronista, Pl del 2 D4 Elvira, Calle 1 C4 García de Vinuesa, C d 3 B2 (5 C4)
Canarios, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Cruces, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Encarnación, Pl d 2 D5 (6 D2) García Morato, Avda d 3 A5
Cancionera, Calle 4 F5 Crucis, Vía 4 F1 Enladrillada, C d 2 E5 (6 F1) García Ramos, C d 1 B5 (5 B2)
Cano y Cueto, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Cruz Roja, Avda de la 2 E4 Enramadilla, C d 4 E3 Gardenia, Calle 2 F3
Cantabria, C d 1 C5 (5 C1) Cruz, Calle 4 E4 Enrique Mensaque, C 3 A3 Gaspar Alonso, Calle 4 D4
Capitán Vigueras, C 4 D2 (6 F5) Cruzadas, Calle las 4 D4 Enrique Morillo, Pl 2 F1 Gaspar de Alvear, C 2 E1
Cardenal Cuarzo, Calle 2 E2 Ensenada, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Gavidia, Pl d 1 C5 (5 C1)
Cervantes, C 4 D1 (6 E2) Cuba, Plaza de la 3 B3 Eritaña, Avda de 4 D5 General Castaños, C 3 B2 (5 C5)
Cardenal Spinola, C 1 C5 (5 C1) Cueva de la Mora, C 2 E1 Escarpín, Calle 2 D5 (6 D2) General García de la
Carlos Alonso, C 6 E4 Cuna, Calle 3 C1 (6 D2) Escoberos, Calle 2 D3 Herranz, Calle 4 F4
Carlos Arniches, Calle 2 F1 Curro Romero, C 3B5 Escudero y Peroso, C 4 F5 General Marva, Calle 2 F4
Carlos Brujes, Calle 4 F5 Curtidores, Plaza 4 D2 (6 F4) Escuelas Pias, C 2 E5 (6 E2) General Merry, Calle 4 E5
Carlos Cañal, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3) Curtidurias, C de 1 B4 Eslava, Calle 1 C4 General Polavieja, Calle 3 C1 (5 C3)
Carlos Haya, Calle 3 A5 Esmeralda, Calle 2 E2 General Primo de
Carlos V, Avda de 4 D3 D España, Plaza de 4 D3 Rivera, Calle 4 D3
Carmen Benítez, Pl 4 E1 (6 F3) Esperanza, Calle 2 D3 General Ríos, C 4 D2 (6 F5)
Carmen Díaz, Calle 2 F1 Dársena, Calle 1 B5 (5 A1) Espinosa y Carcel, C 4 F3 Generalísimo, Puente del 3 C4
Carmona, Carretera de 2 F4 Dean López Cepero, C 4 D1 2 D5 (6 E1) Genil, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4)
Carranza, Calle 2 D3 Delgado, Calle 5 C1 Espíritu Santo, C Génova, Calle 3 B3
Carreta, Calle el 2 D3 Delicias, Po de las 3 C3 Estella, Calle 4 D1 (6 F4) Geranio, Calle 2 F3
Carretas, C de las 2 F2 Demetrio d Ríos, C 4 D2 (6 F4) Estepa, Calle 4 F5 Gerona, Calle 2 D5 (6 E1)
Cartuja, Pasarela d 1 A4 (5 A1) Descalzos, Calle 6 E2 Estepona, Calle 2 E2 Giraldillo, Plaza 2 E4
Castelar, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4) Diamante, Calle 2 E2 Estrellita Castro, Calle 1 C3 Girasol, Calle 2 F3
Castellar, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Diamela, Calle 6 E3 Eucalipto, Calle 2 E1 Gitanillo de Triana, C 3 A5
Castilla, Calle de 3 A1 Diego de Almagro, C 2 E1 Europa, Plaza 2 D4 (6 D1) Gladiolo, Calle del 2 F3
Cazalla de la Sierra, C 2 F1 Diego de la Barrera, C 4 E4 Evangelista, Calle 3 A3 (5 A5) Gloria, Calle 6 D5
Cedaceros, Calle 6 D2 Diego de Merlo, C 2 E5 (6 F2) Expo, Plaza 1 A4 Glorieta Buenos Aires 3 C4
Cefiro, Calle 4 F1 Diego de Riaño, C 4 D3 Exposición, Calle 4 E4 Glorieta Covadonga 4 D4

114  SE VILLE STREE T FINDER


Glorieta de los José de la Camara, C 4 E2 Madre Dolores Márquez, C 2 E4 Moncayo, Calle 4 F4
Marineros Voluntarios 3 C4 José de Velilla, C d 3 B1 (5C2) Madre Rafols, Calle 3 A4 Monederos, Calle 2 D3
Glorieta del Alferez Provisional 3 B4 José Gestoso, C 2 D5 (6 D2) Madre San Marcelo, C 2 F3 Monsalves, Calle 1 C5 (5 B2)
Glorieta México 4 D5 José Laguillo, C 2 F5 Madreselva, Calle 2 F3 Monte Carmelo, C d 3 B3
Glorieta San Diego 3 C3 José Luis Luque, C 2 D5 (6 D2) Madrid, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3) Montevideo, Calle 4 D4
Goles, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B1) José Maluquer, C 2 F3 Maese Farfán, C 4 F2 Moratín, Calle de 3 B1 (5 B3)
Golfo, Calle 6 D3 José María Izquierdo, C 2 F4 Maestre Amete, Calle 4 F2 Morera, Calle 2 E4
Gomara, Avenida 4 D5 José María Martínez Maestre Angulo, Calle 2 F4 Morería 6 D2
González Cuadrado, C 2 D4 Sánchez Arjona, C 3 A3 Maestro Quiroga, C 2 E4 Morgado, Calle de 6 D1
González de León, Calle 6 F4 José María Moreno Magallanes, Avda d 3 C4 Morón, Calle 4 F5
González Quijano, Pasaje 2 D4 Galván, C 4 D2 (6 F5) Málaga, Avda d 4 D2 (6 E5) Muelle de las Delicias 3 C4
Gonzalo Bilbao, C 2 E5 (6 F2) José María Osborne, C 4 D3 Malaquita, Calle 2 E2 Mulhacén, Calle 4 F4
Gonzalo Díaz, Calle 4 E5 Joselito el Gallo, C 3 A5 Maldonados, Pl 2 D4 (6 D1) Muñoz León, C 2 E3
Gonzalo Núñez de Jovellanos, Calle 3 C1 (5 C3) Mallen, Calle 4 F1 Muñoz Olive, C d 3 B1 (5 C3)
Sepúlveda, Calle 2 F3 Juan A Cavestany, C 4 E1 Mallol, Pasaje 2 E4 (6 F1) Muñoz y Pavón, C 6 E3
Gonzalo Segovia, Calle 3 B3 Juan Belmonte, Calle de 3 A5 Malvaloca, Calle 4 F5 Murillo, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3)
Gota de Rocío, C 2 E1 Juan Castillo, Calle 6 F4 Manuel Bermudo
Goyeneta, C d 2 D5 (6 D2) Juan de Astorga, C 2 D3 Barrera, Calle 4 D3 N
Gran Capitán, C 4 D3 Juan de Aviñón, C 4 D2 (6 E5) Manuel Carretero, Calle 2 F3
Granada, Calle 5 C3 Juan de la Cosa, C 4 E5 Manuel Casana, Calle 4 F3 Naoc, Calle de 3 A3
Granate, Calle 2 E2 Juan de Matacarriazo 4 D2 (6 F5) Manuel Cortina, Calle 3 C1 Naranco, Calle 4 F4
Gravina, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B2) Juan de Mesa, C 2 D5 (6 E2) Manuel Mateos, Calle de 2 E3 Naranjo, Calle 2 E1
Guadalhorce, Avda d 3 C5 Juan de Roble, C 2 D3 Manuel Pacheco, Calle 4 D4 Narciso Bonaplata, C 1 C4
Guadalquivir, C d 1 C4 Juan de Vera, C 4 E1 (6 F3) Manuel Ródenas, Calle 2 F3 Nardo, Calle 6 F4
Guadalupe, Calle 4 D1 (6 F3) Juan de Zoyas, C 4 F2 Manuel Rodríguez Navarros, C d 4 D1 (6 F3)
Guadarrama, Calle 4 F4 Juan Manuel Rodríguez Alonso, Calle 3 A3 Nebli, Calle 4 E2
Guadiana, Calle 2 D4 Correa, Calle 2 E3 Manuel Rojas Nicolás Alperiz, C 4 D4
Guinés, Calle 3 C2 (5 C5) Juan Núñez, Calle 2 F3 Marcos, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Niebla, Calle de la 3 A4
Guzmán El Bueno, Juan Pablos, Calle 4 D5 Manuel Siurot, Avda de 4 D5 Niña de la Alfalfa, C 2 F2
Calle de 3 C1 (6 D4) Juan Pérez Montalbán, C 2 D4 Manuel Villalobos, C 2 F3 Niña, Calle 2 F4
Juan Rabadán, Calle de 1 B4 Manzana, Calle 2 E3 Niño Ricardo, Calle 6 E2
H Juan R Jiménez, C 3 B4 Mar Caspio, Calle 2 F2 Nuestra Sra de la O, Po 3 A1
Juan Romero, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Mar Negro, Calle 2 F2 Nuestra Sra de la Paz, C 4 E4
Habana, Calle 3 C2 (5 C5) Juan S Elcano, C 3 B3 Mar Rojo, Calle de 2 F2 Nuestra Sra de los
Harinas, Calle d 3 B2 (5 C4) Judería, Calle 3 C2 (6 D5) Maracaibo, Calle 2 F1 Angeles, Calle 3 A3
Herbolarios, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Julio César, C de 3 B1 (5 B3) Maravillas, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Nueva Torneo 2 D2
Hermanas d Cruz, C 2 F2 Júpiter, Calle de 4 E1 (6 F2) Marbella, Playa 2 E2 Nueva, Plaza 3 B1 (5 C3)
Hermandades, Calle 2 F2 Justino de Neve, C 6 E5 Marcelino Champagnat, C 3 A3 Núñez de Balboa, C 3 B2 (5C5)
Hermano Pablo, Calle 2 F1 Justino Matute, Calle 3 A2 Marchena, Calle 4 F5
Hernán Cortés, Avda de 4 D4 Juzgado, Calle 2 E4 Marco Sancho, Calle 2 D4
2 D3 O
Hernán Cortés, Calle 1 C4 Marcos d Cabrera, C
Hernándo Colón, Calle 3 C1 (6 D4) K María Auxiliadora, C 2 E5 (6 F2) O’Donnell, Calle 3 B1 (5 C2)
Herrera El Viejo, C 1 C5 (5 B2) María Luisa, Avda d 3 C4 Odreros, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3)
Hiniesta, Calle 2 E4 (6 E1) Kansas City, Avenida de 4 F1 María, Calle la 2 F4 Oeste, Paseo 1 A3
Hiniesta, Calle la 2 E4 Mariana de Pineda, C 6 D5 Opalo, Calle 2 E2
Hombre de Piedra, C d 1 C4 L Marianillo, Calle 3 A3 Orden de Malta, C 2 D3
Honderos, Calle 2 E3 Mariscal, Calle 4 D2 (6 E4) Orotava, Calle 2 F1
Horacio Hermoso Araujo, C 4 F5 Laboriosa, C de la 4 E1 Mármoles, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Orquídea, Calle 2 F2
Huelva, Calle de 3 C1 (6 D3) Lagar, Calle del 3 C1 (6 D2) Marqués d Lozoya, C 2 F2 Ortiz de Zúñiga, C 6 D2
Huestes, Calle 4 E3 Lamarque de Novoa, C 2 F4 Marqués de Estella, C 4 E3 Osario, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2)
Marqués de la Mina, C d
1 C4
Lanza, Calle de 4 D1 (6 E3) Marqués de Oscar Carvallo, C 4 F2
I Laraña Imagen, C d 2 D5 (6 D2) Paradas, Calle 1 B5 (5 A1) Otoño, Calle 2 E2
Laurel, Calle 6 D1 Marqués del Duero, Otumba, Calle de 3 B1 (5 C3)
Igueldo, Calle 4 F4 Lealtad, Calle 3 A3 Calle A 1 (5 A3)
Imaginero Castillo Legión, Pl d 3 A1 (5 A2) Marteles, Calle 2 E4 (6 F1) P
Lastrucci, Calle 1 B4 (5 B1) Leiria, Calle 3 A2 Martín Villa, Calle 5 C2
Imperial, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Leon XIII, Calle de 2 E4 Martínez de Medina, C 4 F2 Pacheco y Núñez del
Infanta Luisa Leoncillos, Calle 6 F2 Martínez Montañéz, Prado, Calle 2 D4
de Orleans, Calle 4 D3 Lepanto, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Calle de 1 C5 (5 C1) Padre Campelo, Calle 4 F3
Infante Carlos Lerena, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Marzo, Calle 2 F2 Padre Cañete, Calle 5 C1
de Borbón, Calle 4 D3 Levies, Calle de 4 D1 (6 E4) Matahacas, Calle 2 E5 (6 F1) Padre Damián, C d 3 B4
Infantes, Calle 2 D4 (6 E1) Lictores, Calle 4 E1 Mateo Alemán, C 3 B1 (5 B3) Padre Jerónimo
Inocentes, Calle 2 D4 Liñán, Calle 1 B5 (5 A2) Mateos Gago, C d 3 C2 (6 D4) Córdoba, Plaza 2 E5 (6 E2)
Iris, Calle 3 B2 (5 B4) Lineros, Calle de 3 C1 (6 D3) Matienzo, Calle 3 B2 (5 C5) Padre Manjón, C 2 E4
Irún, Calle 4 D1 (6 F4) Lira, Calle 2 E4 Mazagón, Playa de 2 E2 Padre Marchena, C 3 B1 (5 C3)
Isabel II, Puente d 3 A2 (5 A4) Lirio, Calle 4 D1 (6 E3) Medalla Milagrosa, C 2 E3 Padre Méndez
Isabel La Católica, Avda d 4 D3 Llerena, Calle de 2 F3 Medina y Galnares, C 2 E1 Casariego, C 4 E1
Isabela, Calle 4 E4 Llop 3 C1 (6 D2) Medina, Calle 1 C4 Padre Tarín, C 1 C5 (5 C1)
Lope de Rueda, C 6 E4 Meléndez Valdés, C 2 F1 Pages del Corro, C 3 A2 (5 A5)
J Lope de Vega, C 4 E1 (5 C2) Membrillo, Calle 2 E1 Pajaritos, Calle 6 D3
López de Gomara, C 3 A3 Méndez Núñez, C 3 B1 (5 C3) Palacio Malaver, Calle 2 D4
Jabugo, Calle 2 F4 López Pintado, C 4 D1 (6 E2) Mendigorria, Calle 1 C4 Palma del Río, Calle 2 F3
Jacinta Martos, C 3 A2 Lora del Río, Calle 4 F5 Mendoza Ríos, C d 1 B5 (5 B2) Palmera, Avda de la 4 D5
Jauregui, Calle de 2 E5 (6 F2) Luca de Tena, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Menéndez Pelayo, Palos de la Frontera, C d 3 C3
Javier, Calle 5 C2 Lucero, Calle 2 D4 Calle de 4 D2 (6 E5) Paraíso, Calle 3 A3
Jerónimo Hernández, Luchana, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3) Menéndez Pidal, C 2 F2 Parras, Calle 2 D3
C 2 D5 (6 D1) Lucía de Jesús, C 3 A3 Menjibar, Calle 6 D1 Particular, Calle 3 A4
Jesús del Gran Luis Cadarso, Calle 4 E1 Mercedarias, Pl d 4 D1 (6 E3) Pascual de Gayangos,
Poder, C d 1 C5 (5 C2) Luis de Belmonte, C 4 F2 Mercedes de Velilla 6 D2 Calle de 1 B4 (5 B1)
Jesús Cautivo, Avda 4 F5 Luis de Morales, C d 4F2 Mesón del Moro, C 6 E4 Pascual Márquez, C d 3 A5
Jesús de la Redención, Pl 6 E2 Luis de Vargas, C 3 A1 (5 A3) Miguel Cid, Pastor y Landero,
Jesús de la Vera Cruz, C 1 C5 (5 B2) Luis Montoto, C d 4 E1 (6 F3) Calle de 1 C5 (5 B1) Calle de 3 B1 (5 B3)
Jiménez Aranda, C 4 E2 Lumbreras, Calle 1 C4 Miguel Mañara, C 6 D5 Patricio Sáenz, C 2 E4
Jimios, Calle 3 B1 (5 C4) Luz Arriero, Calle 3 A3 Miño, Calle del 3 A3 Pavia, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4)
Joaquín Costa, C 2 D4 Miraflores, Avenida de 2 F4 Paz, Avenida de la 4 F5
Joaquín Guichot, C 3 C1 (5 C4 M Misericordia, Calle 6 D2 Pedro Caravaca, Calle 5 C2
Joaquín Hazaña, C 3 C2 (5 C5) Moguer, Calle 2 F1 Pedro del Toro, Calle 5 A2
Jorge de Montemayor, C 2 E3 Macarena, Calle 2 E4 Molini, Avenida de 3 C5 Pedro Gual Villalbi, Avda 2 F1
José Bermejo, Calle 2 F1 Macasta, Calle 2E4 Molino, Calle 2 D4 Pedro Miguel, Calle de 2 D4
José Cruz Conde, Calle 4 D3 Madre de Dios, Calle 6 E4 Molviedro, Plaza 3 B1 (5 B3) Pedro Parias, C 3 B1 (5 C3)

SE VILLE STREE T FINDER  115


Pedro P Fernández, C 3 A4 Rioja, Calle 3 B1 (5 C3) Santa Justa, Calle 2 F5 V
Pedro Roldán, C 4 D2 (6 F4) Rivero, Calle 5 C2 Santa María
Pedro Tafur, Calle 2 E3 Rocío, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5) La Blanca, C 4 D2 (6 E4) Valdelagrana, Playa de 2 E2
Pelay Correa, C d 3 A2 (5 A5) Rodó, Calle 3 B2 (5 C4) Santa María, C 2 F4 Valdés Leal, Calle 3 B1 (5 B4)
Pelicano, Plaza del 2 E4 Rodrigo d Triana, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Santa Marina, C 2 E4 Valladares, Calle 3 A2 (5 A4)
Peñalara, Calle 4 F4 Rodríguez Caso, Avda 3 C4 Santa Paula, C d 2 E5 (6 F1) Valle, Calle del 2 E5 (6 F2)
Pensamiento, C 2 F3 Rodríguez Marín, C 4 D1 (6 E3) Santa Rosa, Calle 4 D4 Valme, Calle 4 E3
Peñuelas, Calle 2 E5 (6 E1) Roelas, Calle 1 C4 Santa Rufina, C d 2 D4 Valparaíso, C d 4 D5
Pepe Hillo, Calle 3 B5 Roma, Avenida de 3 C3 Santa Teresa, C d 4 D2 (6 E4) Vara del Rey, C 2 E5 (6 F2)
Pepe Luis Vázquez, C 3 B5 Romanticismo, Avda del 2 E1 Santa Vicenta María, C 1 C5 (5 B2) Varflora, Calle 3 B2 (5 B4)
Perafán de Ribera, C 2 D3 Romeros, Calle de los 2 F2 Santander, C 3 B2 (5 C5) Vargas Campos, C 5 C2
Peral, Calle del 2 D4 Ronda de Capuchinos, C 2 E4 Santas Patronas, C d 3 B1 (5 B3) Vázquez d Leca, C 3 B2 (5B5)
Pérez Galdós, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Ronda de Pío XII, Calle 2 F2 Santiago Montoto, Avda 3 C4 Velarde, Calle 3 B2 (5B4)
Pérez Hervás, C 2 F5 Ronda Urbana Norte 2 E1 Santiago, Calle 2 E5 (6 E2) Velázquez Tetuán, C 3 C1 (5 C2)
Peris Mencheta, C 2 D4 Rosaleda, Calle la 2 F4 Santo Angel, C 3 A4 Venecia, Calle 2 F5
Perú, Avenida del 3 C3 Rosario Vega, C 3 B3 Santo Domingo de la Venta de los Gatos, C 2 D1
Pilar de Gracia, C 3 A2 (5 A5) Rosario, C d 3 B1 (6 D3) Calzada, Calle 4 F2 Verano, Calle 2 F2
Pilatos, Plaza de 4 D1 (6 E3) Rositas, Calle 3 B1 (5 B3) Santo Rey, Calle 4 E3 (6 F5) Verde, Calle 2 D4 (4 D1)
Pimienta, Calle 3 C2 (6 D5) Rubens, Calle 1 C5 (5 C1) Sargento Provisional, Pl 3 A4 Verde, Calle 4 D1 (6 E4)
Pinta, Calle 2 F4 Rubí, Calle 2 E1 Saturno, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2) Verónica, C d 2 E5 (6 F1)
Pinto, Calle 2 E5 (6 F2) Ruiseñor, Calle 3 A2 Sauceda, Calle 5 C2 Veruela, Calle de 2 E1
Pinzón, Avda de 4 D4 Ruiz de Alda, Plaza de 4 E3 Segura, Calle 3 A1 (5 A3) Vib-Arragel, C 1 C3
Pinzones, Calle 2 F4 Seises, Pasaje 3 B2 (5 C4) Victoria, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5)
Pío XII, Plaza de 2 F3 S Sierpes, Calle 3 C1 (5 C2) Vida, Calle 3 C2 (6 D5)
Pirineos, Calle de los 4 E2 Sierra de Gata, C 4 F5 Vidrio, Calle del 4 D1 (6 F3)
Pizarro, Avenida de 3 C4 Saavedras, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Sierra del Castañe, C 4 F5 Villa Jamerdana, Pasaje 6 D4
Pizarro, Calle 1 C4 Sacrificio, Pl del 4 F1 Villegas, Calle 3 C1 (6 D3)
Placentines, C 3 C1 (6 D4) Sagasta, Calle 3 C1 (5 C3) Siete Revueltas, C d 6 D3 Virgen de África, C 3 A4
Plácido F Viagas 4 E4 Sagunto, Calle 2 D3 Simpecado, C 2 E2 Virgen de Aguas Santas, C 3 A4
Poeta Fernando de Salado, Calle de 3 A3 Socorro, Calle 2 E5 (6 E1) Virgen de Araceli, C 3 B4
los Ríos, Calle 2 F1 Sales y Ferre, Calle 6 D3 Sol, Calle del 2 E5 (6 F1) Virgen de Begoña, C 3 B3
Polancos, Calle de 2 F4 Salesianos, Calle 2 E5 Sollo, Calle 2 E4 Virgen de Belén, C 3 A3
Ponce de León, Pl 2 E5 (6 E2) Salvador, Plaza 3 C1 (6 D3) Sor Angela de la Cruz, C de 2 D5 Virgen de Consolación, Pje 3 B3
Portaceli, Calle 4 E2 San Agustín, Pl de 4 D1 (6 F3) Sor Francisca Dorotea, C 2 F2 Virgen de Escardiel, C 2 F1
Portugal, Avda de 4 D3 San Benito, C d 4 E1 Sorda, Calle 2 E4 Virgen de Fátima, C 3 A3
Potro, Calle del 1 C5 (5 C1) San Bernardo, C d 4 E3 (6 F5) Virgen de Gracia y
Pozo Santo, Pl 2 D5 (6 D1) San Blas, Calle de 2 D4 T Esperanza, C 2 E5 (6 F2)
Pozo, Calle del 2 D4 San Clemente 6 E4 Virgen de Guaditoca, C 3 B4
Prada, Calle 2 D4 San Diego, Calle d 3 B2 (5 C4) Tabladilla, Calle 4 D5 Virgen d Alegría, C 4 D1 (6 E4)
Prado de San Sebastian 6 D3 San Eloy, Calle d 1 C5 (5 B2) Tadeo Soler, Calle 3 A3 Virgen de la Antigua, C 3 A4
Presidente Carrero San Esteban, C d 4 D1 (6 F3) Taf, Calle el 2 D3 Virgen de la Cinta, C 3 A4
Blanco, Avda de 3 B5 San Fernando, C 3 C2 (6 D5) Talgo, Calle el 2 D3 Virgen de la Estrella, C 3 A4
Previsión, Calle 2 F3 San Florencio, C 4 F2 Tamboril, Calle 2 F2 Virgen de la Luz, C 6 F3
Primavera, Calle 2 F2 San Francisco de Tarifa, Calle de 1 C5 (5 C2) Virgen de la Oliva, C 3 A4
Progreso, Calle del 4 D4 Paula, C de 1 C5 (5 C1) Teatinos, Avda de los 4 F5 Virgen de la Sierra, C 4 D3
Prosperidad, Calle 3 A3 San Francisco Javier, Avda 4 F4 Teide, Calle 2 D4 Virgen de las Huertas, C 3 B3
Puebla de las Mujeres, C 4 F5 San Francisco, Pl d 3 C1 (5 C3) Tello de Guzmán, C 4 E5 Virgen d Montañas, C 3 A4
Puente y Pellón 6 D2 San Gil Contreras, Pl 2 D3 Temprado, Calle 3 B2 (5 C5) Virgen de Loreto, Calle 3 B4
Puerta de Carmona 4 D1 (6 F3) San Gregorio, C d 3 C2 (6 D5) Teniente Borges, C 1 C5 (5 C2) Virgen d Libros, C 5 B1
Puerta de Jerez, Pl 3 C2 (6 D5) San Hermenegildo, C d 2 E4 Teniente C Seguí, C 5 C3 Virgen d Reyes, Pl 3 C2 (6 D4)
Puerta Real 1 B5 (5 A2) San Ignacio, C d 4 F2 Teniente Vargas Virgen de Luján, C 3 A4
Puerto Rico, C 2 F2 San Isidoro, C 3 C1 (6 D3) Zúñiga, C 3 B1 (5 B3) Virgen de Montserrat, C 3 B4
Pumarejo, Plaza de 2 D4 San Jacinto, C d 3 A2 (5 A5) Tenor Manuel García, C 4 E5 Virgen de Regla, C 3 B3
Puñonrostro, C 6 F2 San Joaquín, C d 2 F5 Tentudia, Calle 4 E3 Virgen de Robledo, C 3 B4
Pureza, C de la 3 A2 (5 A5) San Jorge, Calle 3 A2 (5 A4) Teodosio, C de 1 C5 (5 B1) Virgen de Setefilla, C 3 B3
Purgatorio, Calle 2 E3 San José, Calle d 4 D1 (6 E4) Ter, Calle el 2 D2 Virgen de Valvanera, C 4 F2
San Juan Bosco, C de 2 F4 Terceros, Pl de los 2 D5 (6 E2) Virgen del Aguila, C 3 A4
Q San Juan de Avila, C de 5 C2 Tibidabo, Calle 4 F4 Virgen del Buen Aire, C 3 A3
Virgen del Monte, C
3 A4
San Juan de la Tintes, Calle 4 D1 (6 F3)
Quevedo, C d 2 D5 (6 D1) Palma, C de 2 D5 (6 D1) Tirso de Molina, C 3 B1 (5 B3) Virgen del Pepetuo
Quinita Flores, C 4 F5 San Juan de la Ribera, C 2 E3 Tolosa Latour, C 4 F5 Socorro, Calle 3 A3
San Juan, Calle de 6 D3 Tomás de Ibarra, C 3 C2 (5 C4) Virgen del Refugio, C 3 A4
R San Julián, Calle de 2 E4 Toneleros, C 5 C4 Virgen d Subterránio, C 2 D4
3 B3
Virgen del Valle, C
San Lázaro, Avda de 2 E2 Topacio, Calle 2 E2
3 B3
Rábida, Calle la 3 C3 San Luis, Calle de 2 D4 Torcuato Pérez, C 2 E3 Virgen Milagrosa, Pl 4 D1 (6 E3)
Vírgenes
Rafael González San Marcos, Plaza 2 E5 (6 E1) Torneo, Calle del 1 B5 (5 A1) Viriato, Calle del 2 D5 (6 D1)
Abreu, C 3 B1 (5 B2) San Martín, Plaza 2 D5 (6 D1) Torreblanca, C 2 D4
Rafael María de Labra, C 4 E5 San Miguel, Calle 1 C5 (5 C1) Torremolinos, C 3 A1 (5 A3) Virtud, Calle 3 A3
Vista Florida, Plaza
2 E3
Rafael Ortega, Plaza 3 B5 San Pablo, Calle d 3 B1 (5 B3) Torres, Calle 2 D3 Vista Hermosa, Calle 2 E3
Ramírez de Bustamante, C 4 E5 San Pedro Mártir, C 3 B1 (5 B2) Torrigiano, Calle 2 D3 Voluntad, Calle 3 A3
Ramón de Carranza, Avda 3 A5 San Pedro, Plaza 2 D5 (6 E2) Torrijos, Calle 3 A2 (5 A5) Vulcano, Calle 2 D4
Ramón y Cajal, Avda de 4 F4 San Román, Plaza 6 E1 Trabajo, C d 3 A3
Rastro, Calle 4 D2 (6 F5) San Roque, C de 3 B1 (5 B2) Trajano, Calle 1 C5 (5 C1)
Raza, Avda de la 3 C5 San Salvador, C 4 D4 Trastámara, C d 3 A1 (5 A3) X
Recaredo, C d 2 E5 (6 F3) San Sebastián, Pl de 4 D3 3 A2 (5 A4)
Redes, Calle de 1 B5 (5 B2) San Telmo, Puente de 3 B3 Triana, Puente de 2 E4 Ximénez de Enciso, C 4 D2 (6 E4)
Trinidad, Calle
Refinadores, Pl 4 D2 (6 E4) San Vicente, C d 1 C5 (5 B2) Triunfo, Pl del 3 C2 (6 D4)
Regina, Calle 2 D5 (6 D1) Sánchez Barcárizetgui, C 5 A3 Trovador, Calle 4 E2 Y
Relator, Calle de 2 D4 Sánchez d Castro, C 2 E5 (6 F1) Troya, Calle de 3 B3
Reposo, Calle 1 C3 Sánchez Perrier, C d 2 E3 Yuste, Calle de 1 C3
República Argentina, Sánchez Pizjuan, Avda 2 D2 Trujillo, Calle 2 F2
2 E2 Z
Avenida de la 3 A4 Sancho Dávila, Avda d 2 F2 Turia, Calle del 3 A4
República Dominicana, Pl 3 A4 Sanjurjo, Avenida 3 C3 Turmalina, Calle
Requena, Calle 3 A2 Sanlúcar La Mayor 4 F5 Zafiro, Calle 2 E2
Resolana, C d 2 D3 Santa Ana, Calle de 1 C4 U Zamora, Pasaje 4 D1 (6 F4)
Reyes Católicos, C 3 A1 (5 A4) Santa Bárbara, C 5 C1 Zamudio, Calle 6 E3
Ricardo de Checa, C 5 B2 Santa Clara, C d 1 C4 Úbeda, Calle 4 E1 (6 F3) Zaragoza, Calle 3 B3 (5 C3)
Ricardo Torres Bombita, C 3 A5 Santa Cruz, Pl d 4 D2 (6 E4) Ulia, Calle de 4 F4 Zaruen 1 B4 (5 B1)
Rio de Janeiro, Calle 2 F1 Santa Fé, Calle 3 A4 Unidad, Calle de la 4 E2 Zurbarán, Plaza 2 D5 (6 D2)
Río de la Plata, C 4 E4 Santa Isabel, Pl 2 E5 (6 E1) Urquiza, Calle 2 F5 Zurradores, Plaza 4 D1 (6 F4)

Olympic
Stadium of Seville


Puente de
la Corta
V I A D U C T O D E L A L A M I L L O

PARQUE ALAMILLO
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M A R I E C U R I E I
CALLE MATEMÁTIC OS REY
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Puente de la Barqueta J U A N
CARTUJA ‘93 PARQUE

O A L B E R T E I N S T E I N JARDIN DEL
A C I L E O N A R D O D A V I N C I D D D E E E GUADALQUIVIR R E Y VIB- ARRAGEL
GREGOR MENDEL
D U MAX PLANCK C LA
I P P A S E O CALAT
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N S C H A R L E S D A R W I N Monasterio de AV
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V V C H A R L E S D A R W I N A DE LA SEDA YUSTE
A O O O E CASTRO
PIZ A RRO E
PLAZA N N N
EXPO I I I N CALLE CREDITO
M M M MEN DIGORRIA O
A A A I R CLAVIJO LUMBRERAS
O C C C O Convento de
C r C A R L O S T Santa Clara
JARDIN i
I GUADALQUIVIR Torre de Don
BOTANICO
R AMERICANO v E Fadrique
E i C E N T
M u J U A N L
A l q E BONAPLATA I TEO D O S I O HOMBRE DE PIEDRA
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Monasterio Santa a D V ROELAS MEDINA
María de las Cuevas d R E Y CALLE S
D E S C U B R I M I E N T O S G P A S E O L L E J U A N E R C I D DE CALLE ESLAVA ANTA ANA
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Centro Andaluz de a E CAN NO TIDURIAS A N P O D E R
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SAN T A CRUZA CRUZA CRUZT GOLFO
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CÓRDOBA ALCAICERIA PL DEL ODREROS CALERIA G U A D A L U P E CALLE JUAN DE VERA
REVUELTAS
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HERBOLARIOS ALFALFA CABEZA DEL REY DON PEDRO LUZ
PLAZA A M CAMACHO San R M A R I N C A B A L L E R I Z A S Casa de D E
H U E L V A
SALVADOR Iglesia del ALFA LFA Ildefonso Pilatos V DE LA
Salvador C A L L E Iglesia C A L L E
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VILLEGAS ROSARIO A G U I L A S San Esteban CONCEPCION CALLE UBEDA
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PLAZA
BLANCO DE
LUCHANA AUGUSTO PLASENCIA AMISTAD L I R I O PILATOS S A N E S T E B A N F R AY A LO N S O
LOS RIOS
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CALLE SAN ISIDORO REY DIAMELA CELINDA V I D R I O PUERTA DE
F RA N C O S M R MARCOS DE L MUÑO Z Z Z OY OY Y V I R G E N E S D E T I N T E S AGUSTIN CARMONA
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M O LINA D E S C A L L E FEDERICO RUBIO S A N CALLE DE LEVIES GARCI-PEREZ I R U N ZURRADORES
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PLAZA
DE B A A I R E PASAJE LOS ALCORES PASAJE ZAMORA BARRON
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V E R D E
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PL VIRGEN DE ALONSO M O R E N O
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LOS REYES D E MARÍA LA BLANCA CANO Y CUETO
CARLOS
Giralda C A L L E M A MESON DEL C R U C E S
MORO
Convento de la X I M EN E Z
Encarnación S AN TA ALEJO
Catedral PJE ANDREU MARISCAL P E L AY O J CASTILLO
PLAZA PLAZA PEDRO ROLDAN M A R I A
Hospital de los L OPE DE RUEDA TE R E S A SANTA REFINADORES FERNANDEZ
CRUZ
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TRIUNFO D E M E T R I O
PJE VILLA JAMERDANA
Archivo PL DOÑA G LO R I A J O S E
PLAZA
de Indias ALFARO
ELVIRA J DE NEVE D E
AGUA L O S
Real JUDERIA JARDINES DE M E N E N D E Z R A S T R O
VIDA
PIMIENTA
M AÑARA Alcázar MURILL O G E N E R A L R I O S J U A N R I O S
MIGUEL CI F U ENTES
PLAZA
CONTRATACION
D E D E C A P I T A N V I G U E R A S D E S A N
S GREGORIO MARIANA DE JARDINES DEL C A L L E C O N D E C O F I A
PINEDA
ALCÁZAR
JUAN DE
PUERTA AVIÑON B E R
DE JEREZ AVENIDA DE CADIZ M A T A C A R R I A Z O
Puerta N A R D O GALLINATO
de Jerez
SAN FERNANDO
SANTO REY
AVENIDA DE MALAGA
HotelAlfonso XIII



ANDALUCÍA


AREA BY AREA





Andalucía at a Glance 124–125

Huelva and Sevilla 126–137
Córdoba and Jaén 138–161
Cádiz and Málaga 162–187
Granada and Almería 188–209

124  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Andalucía at a Glance

Andalucía is a region of contrasts where
snowcapped mountains rise above deserts and
Mediterranean beaches, and Moorish palaces can
be found standing next to Christian cathedrals.
Its eight provinces, which in this guide are divided
into four areas, offer busy towns such as Granada
and Córdoba with their astonishing architectural
treasures, as well as sleepy villages, endless olive Roof of the Mihrab in the Mezquita, Córdoba’s top
groves and nature reserves of great beauty. sight (see pp148–9)




CÓRDOBA




The amphitheatre in the Roman city of Itálica
(see p48 and p136), just outside Seville
Jabugo
Córdoba

HUELVA SEVILLA


Seville
Huelva








MÁLAGA
Golden chalice from the rich treasury
of Cádiz cathedral (see p168) Cádiz
CÁDIZ



Los Barrios








Arcos de la Frontera, one of the pretty pueblos blancos
(white villages, see pp176–7) so typical of Andalucía
The magnificent Alhambra in Granada

AND AL UCÍA A T A GLANCE  125















The imposing Moorish castle of Baños de la Encina
(see p155) in the province of Jaén
0 kilometres 50
Baroque west front of the elegant cathedral in
Jaén (see p152) 0 miles 25








JAÉN
Jaén






ALMERÍA
Granada
GRANADA
Archidona

Almería


Málaga
















Cabo de Gata, a nature reserve with
Gardens of the Alhambra in Granada (see pp194–202) excellent beaches (see p208)



AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA  127

HUELVA

AND SEVILLA


Andalucía’s western extremities and the plains surrounding
Seville are rarely explored by travellers in southern Spain.
There are isolated beaches along Huelva province’s Atlantic coast
and good walking country in the northern sierras. The Parque Nacional
de Doñana on the Guadalquivir delta is Europe’s largest nature reserve;
inland, orange groves straddle the river’s valley.

As Roman legions under Scipio Africanus Frontera, which at the time was an important
crossed southern Spain on their westward port. He stayed nearby, at the Franciscan
trek in the 3rd century BC, they founded Monasterio de la Rábida, built earlier that
a formidable metropolis, Itálica. Its well- century. Running along Huelva’s northern
preserved ruins remain north of Seville. border is a ridge of mountains, of which
Later, the Moors held the region as part of the forested Sierra de Aracena forms part.
the Emirate of Al Andalus. They peppered This ridge continues into Sevilla province
it with their whitewashed, fortified towns, as the Sierra Norte de Sevilla. Here, goats
of which Carmona, in Sevilla province, is a forage, birds of prey fly overhead and
fine example. After the Christian Reconquest streams gush through deep chasms. The
(see pp52–3), Moorish traditions persisted landscape erupts in a riot of wild flowers
through Mudéjar architecture (see pp28–9), in spring, turning brown as the searing
blending with Baroque and Renaissance summer sets in.
in cities such as Osuna, which flourished The Parque Nacional de Doñana
in the 16th century. preserves the dunes and marshlands
Huelva province is inextricably bound near the mouth of the Guadalquivir to
up with another chapter in the history of the south. Here, teeming birdlife and
world conquest – in 1492 Columbus set wetland fauna thrive on the mudflats
out on his epic voyage from Palos de la and shallow, saline waters.

























Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rocío, El Rocío, where many pilgrims converge each Pentecost Sunday
Whitewashed buildings in a village in the Sierra de Aracena

128  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Huelva and Sevilla

Cosmopolitan Seville is the natural base from which to
explore the far-flung corners of Huelva and Sevilla
provinces, such as the little-visited and extraordinarily
beautiful Sierra de Aracena and the rugged Sierra Norte.
The Atlantic coast offers a virtually unbroken stretch of
beaches and the Parque Nacional de Doñana features
a fascinating marsh landscape abundant in wildlife.
Between the coast and the mountains are rolling
agricultural plains, interrupted by vineyards in
fertile El Condado. Among the region’s The mines of Riotinto, Sierra de Aracena
historic towns are Écija and Osuna,
with fine Baroque features, while S i e r r a Arroyomolinos Mérida
de León
the history of Columbus can M o r e n a
be traced in the towns Rosal de la Aroche de Aracena
Embalse
Frontera
around Huelva. Cortegana Jabugo Aracena Santa Olalla
del Cala
Chanza nza nz z S I E R R A D E A R A C E N A Higuera
Ch
C
de la Sierra
Santa Bárbara H
Hu
de Casa lv
v
lva
Huelva
Paymogo
Cabezas El Ronquillo
Rubias MINAS DE
Zalamea RÍOTINTO
Calañas la Real El Castillo de
las Guardas
Tharsis HUEL V A
Alosno Guadiamar
Villanueva de Odiel di d Valverde
del Camino
los Castillejos Tinto
Sanlúcar de Embalse Aznalcóllar
Guadiana de Sancho
San Bartolomé
de la Torre Sanlúcar
San Silvestre Trigueros El CONDADO la Mayor
de Guzmán Gibraleón Niebla Palma del Condado
di i
dia
Guadiana
San Juan Bollullos Pilas
Villablanca HUELVA del Puerto del Condado
Cartaya
MOGUER
Lepe MONASTERIO DE Almonte
A A AYAMONTEYAMONTE PALOS DE LA
LA RÁBIDA FRONTERA
Tavira ISLA PUNTA Villafranca del
CRISTINA UMBRÍA EL ROCÍO Guadalquivir
MAZAGÓN
PA R Q U E
N A C I O N A L
G o l f l f l o d e C á d i z
MATALASCAÑAS ir i
DE D O Ñ A Guadalquivir N A
dalqu
q
lq
d
Key
Motorway
Motorway under construction
Major road
Minor road
Scenic route
Main railway
Minor railway
International border
Fishing boats in the harbour of Punta Umbría Provincial border
For additional map symbols see back flap

HUEL V A AND SE VILLA  129


Getting Around
The busy A4, linking Córdoba with Seville, slices through
the eastern half of the region, bypassing Écija and Carmona,
then streaks on down to Jerez de la Frontera and Cádiz as
the AP4. Another motorway, the A92, brings traffic from
Málaga and Granada. All join a ring-road at Seville, with the
A49 continuing to Huelva and Portugal. These cities are also
connected by rail. A complex and inexpensive bus network
run by many different companies links most towns. To
explore the more remote parts of the region, particularly
mountain roads, it is essential to have private transport.




Alanis
Embalse de S I E R R A
El Pintado Las Navas de la
Concepción
Cazalla de N O R T E
la Sierra
Almadén Constantina A well-known bodega advertisement in the rolling
de la Plata hills of the Sierra de Aracena
El Pedroso
La Puebla
de los Infantes
Viar
Embalse
de Cala Peñaflor
Palma del Río
Castilblanco de
los Arroyos Lora del Río Córdoba
Cantillana G
Ge
Villanueva del d La Campana Genil
Guadalq l
Río y Minas Gu dalquivir La Luisiana
G
SEVILLA
Alcalá del Río ÉCIJA
ITÁLICA CARMONA
Santiponce
C
Co
Corbones es e
Sevilla Mairena del Alcor La Lantejuela Herrera
(Seville) Alcalá de Guadaira El Rubio
Marchena
Dos El Arahal ESTEPA
Coria del Hermanas OSUNA
Río Aguadulce
La Puebla
Utrera de Cazalla La Roda de Málaga
Los Palacios Morón de Andalucía
y Villafranca la Frontera
Marismas del Embalse de La Villanueva de
San Juan
Guadalquivir Torre del Águila
Las Cabezas Montellano
de San Juan
LEBRIJA
Sights at a Glance
Jerez de la 1 Sierra de Aracena w El Rocío
Frontera 2 Minas de Ríotinto e Matalascañas
3 Ayamonte r Parque Nacional
4 Isla Cristina de Doñana pp134–5
5 Punta Umbría t Lebrija
6 Huelva y Itálica
7 Monasterio de la Rábida u Sierra Norte
8 Palos de la Frontera i Carmona
9 Moguer o Écija
0 kilometres 20
0 Mazagón p Osuna
0 miles 10 q El Condado a Estepa

130  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


3Ayamonte
Huelva. Road map A3. * 18,000. @
n Calle Huelva 37 (959 32 07 37).
( Sat morning.
Before the road bridge over the
lower Guadiana river was com-
pleted in 1992, anyone who
was crossing between southern
Andalucía and the Algarve coast
of Portugal had to pass through
Ayamonte. The small, flat-
bottomed car ferry across the
jellyfish-infested mouth of the
A ham shop in Jabugo, Sierra de Aracena Guadiana river still operates and
is an alternative for those who
1Sierra de Aracena } Gruta de las Maravillas are making the journey between
Pozo de la Nieve. Tel 663 93 78 76.
Huelva. Road map A2. £ El Repilado. Open 10am–1:30pm, 3–6pm. & 8 the two countries. Visitors can
@ Aracena. n Calle Pozo de la Nieve, watch the ferry from the tower
s/n, in reception area of La Gruta de of Ayamonte’s Iglesia San
las Maravillas, (663 93 78 77). ( Sat. Francisco, which has a fine
∑ aracena.es 2Minas de Riotinto Mudéjar ceiling. The more
adventurous can head northwest
Huelva. Road map A2. @ Riotinto.
This wild mountain range in Tel 959 59 00 25. Minas de Riotinto to the small town of Sanlúcar
northern Huelva province is one & Museo Minero: Open 10:30am–3pm, de Guadiana, from where it
of the most remote and least 4–7pm daily (mid-Jul–Sep: to 8pm). is possible take a zip-line to
visited corners of Andalucía. Its Closed 1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec & 7 8 cross the border into Portugal
slopes, covered with cork, oak, ∑ parquemineroderiotinto.es (www.limitzero.com).
chestnut and wild olive, are cut
by rushing streams and many A fascinating detour off the
tortuous mountain roads. N435 between Huelva city and 4Isla Cristina
The main town of the region, the Sierra de Aracena leads to Huelva. Road map A3. * 18,000. @
Aracena, squats at the foot of the opencast mines at Riotinto. n Calle San Francisco 12 (959 33 26
a ruined Moorish fortress on a These have been excavated 94). ( Thu. ∑ islacristina.org
hillside pitted with caverns. since Phoenician times; the
One of these, the Gruta de las Greeks, Romans and Visigoths Once a distinct island, Isla
Maravillas, can be entered to exploited their reserves of iron, Cristina is now surrounded by
see its underground lake in a copper, silver and mineral ores. marshes. Situated near the
chamber hung with stalactites. The lip of the crater overlooks mouth of the Guadiana river, it is
Near the fortress, the Iglesia del walls of rock streaked with green an important fishing port, home
Castillo, which was built in the and red fissures. Below, the trucks to a fleet of tuna and sardine
13th century by the Knights at work in the mines appear toy- trawlers. With a fine sandy
Templar, has a Mudéjar tower. sized. The Museo Minero in the beach, Isla Cristina is now a
The village of Jabugo also village explains the history of popular summer resort. Situated
nestles amid these mountains. the mines and of the Riotinto on the main seafront is an
It is famed across Spain for its Company. At weekends and on excellent choice of restaurants,
tasty cured ham, jamón ibérico, public holidays there is a train which serve delicious, freshly
or pata negra (see p222). tour in restored 1900 carriages. landed fish and seafood.















Tuna and sardine trawlers moored for the night in the port of Isla Cristina
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p217 and pp230–31

HUEL V A AND SE VILLA  131


E Museo Provincial
Alameda Sundheim 13.
Tel 959 65 04 24. Open 9am–
7:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3:30pm
Sun & public hols (mid-Jun–mid-
Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sun &
public hols). 7
7Monasterio
de la Rábida
Huelva. Road map A3. @ from Huelva.
Tel 959 35 04 11. Open 10am–1pm,
Frescoes depicting the life of Columbus at Monasterio de la Rábida 4–6:15pm Tue–Sat, 10:45am–1pm,
4–6:15pm Sun (to 7pm Jul & Aug). &
5Punta Umbría over the commercial world. 8 ∑ monasteriodelarabida.com
That Columbus set sail from Palos In 1491, a dejected Genoese
Huelva. Road map A3. * 14,000. @
n Avenida Ciudad de Huelva s/n (959 de la Frontera, across the estuary, explorer found refuge in the
49 51 60). ( Mon. ∑ punta is Huelva’s main claim to inter- Franciscan friary at La Rábida,
umbria.es national renown. This fact is which is across the Odiel estuary
celebrated in the excellent from Huelva. King Fernando and
Punta Umbria is one of the main Museo Provincial, which also Queen Isabel had refused to
beach resorts in Huelva has several exhibitions charting back his plan to sail west to the
province. It sits at the end the history of the mines East Indies. The prior, Juan Pérez,
of a long promontory, at Riotinto. Some archae- who as the confessor of the
with the Marismas del ological finds from the queen had great influence,
Odiel wetlands to one very early days of mining eventually succeeded in getting
side and a sandy beach are cleverly presented. this decision reversed. The
bordering the Gulf of To the east of the following year, this sailor, by the
Cádiz to the other. The centre, the Barrio Reina name of Columbus, became
Riotinto Company first Victoria is a bizarre the first European to reach the
developed the resort in example of English Americas since the Vikings.
the late 19th century for suburbia in the very La Rábida friary, which was
its British employees. Bronze jug, Museo heart of Andalucía. built on Moorish ruins in the
These days, however, it is Provincial, Huelva It is a district of 15th century, is now a shrine
mainly Spanish holiday- bungalows in mock- to Columbus. Frescoes painted
makers who stay in the Tudor style, built by by Daniel Vásquez Díaz in 1930
beachside villas. the Riotinto Company for its glorify Columbus’s life. The Sala
A long bridge crosses the staff in the early 20th century. de las Banderas contains a
marshes, giving road access from South of the town, at Punta del small casket of soil from every
Huelva. It is more fun to follow a Sebo, the Monumento a Colón, Latin American country. Worth
trail blazed by Riotinto expatriates a 1929 bleak statue of Columbus seeing are the Mudéjar cloisters,
seeking the sun and take the by Gertrude Vanderbuilt Whitney, the lush gardens and the
ferry across the bird-rich wetlands. dominates the Odiel estuary. beamed chapterhouse.
6Huelva Columbus in Andalucía
Huelva. Road map A3. * 130,000. £ Cristóbal Colón – Christopher Columbus to the English-
@ n Calle Jesús Nazareno 21 (959 65 speaking world – was born in Genoa in Italy, trained as
02 00). ( Fri. ∑ turismohuelva.org a navigator in Portugal and
conceived the idea of reaching
Founded as Onuba by the the Indies by sailing westwards.
Phoenicians, the town had its In 1492 he sailed from Palos de la
grandest days as a Roman port. Frontera and later the same year
It prospered again in the early landed on Watling Island in the
days of trade with the Americas, Bahamas, believing that he had
fulfilled his ambition.
but Seville soon took over. Its Columbus made three further
decline culminated in 1755, when voyages from bases in Andalucía,
Huelva was almost wiped out reaching mainland South America
by the great Lisbon earthquake. and other islands in what are still
Today, industrial suburbs sprawl termed the West Indies in defer-
around the Odiel quayside, from ence to his mistake. He died at Columbus takes his leave before
which the Riotinto Company Valladolid in 1506. setting sail
once exported its products all

132  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


charts the poet’s life and work,
and is located in his restored
former home.
The walls of the 14th-century
Monasterio de Santa Clara
enclose some splendid, stone-
carved Mudéjar cloisters. The
nuns’ dormitory, kitchen and
refectory capture some of the
atmosphere of their life inside
the enclosure.
The Monasterio de San
Francisco is worth seeing for
its church, with a superb white
tower and Baroque portals.
Historic map at the Casa Museo de Martín Alonso Pinzón in Palos de la Frontera
E Museo de Zenobia y Juan
8Palos de These days, Palos’s prosperity Ramón Jiménez
la Frontera comes from the thousands of Calle Juan Ramón Jiménez 10.
hectares of strawberry beds in Tel 959 37 21 48. Open Tue–Sun.
Huelva. Road map A3. * 12,000. @ the surrounding fields, which Closed Sun pm & public hols. & 8
n Parque Botánico José Celestino soak up the sun. R Monasterio de Santa Clara
Mutis, Paraje de la Rábida (959 49 46 Plaza de las Monjas. Tel 959 37 01 07.
64). ( Sat. E Casa Museo de Martín Open Tue–Sun. Closed often closed
Alonso Pinzón on Sat for events; public hols. &
Palos is an unprepossessing Calle Colón 24. Tel 959 10 00 41.
agricultural town on the eastern Open 10am–2pm Mon–Fri. &
side of the Río Odiel’s marshy
delta. Yet it is a major attraction
on the Columbus heritage trail. 9Moguer
On 3 August 1492, Columbus Huelva. Road map A3. * 15,000. @
put out to sea from Palos in his n Calle Andalucía 17, Teatro Felipe
ship, the Santa María, with the Godínez (959 37 18 98). ( Thu.
caravels the Pinta and the Niña, ∑ andalucia.org
whose captains were Martín
and Vicente Pinzón, brothers A beautiful, whitewashed town,
from Palos. A statue of Martín Moguer is a network of shaded
Pinzón stands in the town’s courtyards and narrow streets
main square, and his former lined with flower boxes. It is a
home has been turned into a delight to stroll around, exploring Mazagón’s sandy beach on the
small museum of exploration, treasures such as the 16th-cen- Costa de la Luz
named the Casa Museo de tury hermitage of Nuestra
Martín Alonso Pinzón. Señora de Montemayor 0Mazagón
The Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia and the Neo-Classical Huelva. Road map A3. * 3,500. @
San Jorge dates from the 15th Ayuntamiento. Moguer n Edificio Mancomunidad, Avda de
century. It has a fine portal, is also the birthplace of los Conquistadores s/n (959 37 60 44).
through which Columbus left the poet and 1956 ( Fri evening.
after hearing Mass before his Nobel laureate, Juan
famous voyage. Afterwards, Ramón Jiménez. One of the more remote
he boarded the Santa María The Museo de beach resorts of the Costa de
at a pier, which is now forlornly Zenobia y Juan la Luz, Mazagón shelters among
silted up. Ramón Jiménez pine woods 23 km (14 miles)
southeast of Huelva. Virtually
deserted in winter, it comes to
life in summer when mainly
Spanish holiday-makers arrive
to fish, sail and enjoy the huge,
and often windswept, beach.
Visitors to the resort may still
take pleasure in the solitude,
however, while taking long
walks along the endless Atlantic
shoreline and among the
The 16th-century Nuestra Señora de Montemayor in Moguer sand dunes.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p217 and pp230–31

HUEL V A AND SE VILLA  133


by bus, car, horse, or even on
gaudily decorated ox-carts or
on foot. They come to Ermita
de Nuestra Señora del Rocío
that has a statue reputed to
have been behind miraculous
apparitions since 1280. Pilgrims
are joined by revellers, who are
enticed by the promise of
plentiful wine, music and
a great party.

eMatalascañas
Huelva. Road map A3. * 1,200. @
Moorish walls surrounding Niebla in El Condado n Parque Dunar, s/n (959 43 00 86).
qEl Condado wEl Rocío ( Thu.
Matalascañas is the largest
Huelva. Road map B2. £ @ Palma Huelva. Road map B3. * 2,500.
del Condado. n Plaza de España 14, @ n Centro Doñana, Avda de la Andalucían beach resort west of
Palma del Condado (959 40 24 09). Canaliega s/n (959 44 38 08). ( Tue. the Guadalquivir river. Thousands
holiday here, lying in the sun,
The rolling, fecund hills to the Bordering the wetlands of the riding, sailing or water-skiing by
east of Huelva produce several Doñana region (see pp134–5), day and dancing to the latest
of Andalucía’s finest wines. El the village of El Rocío is for disco beat at night. At Romería
Condado, defined roughly by most of the year a tranquil, rural del Rocío, the resort overflows
Niebla, Palma del Condado, backwater, which attracts with pilgrims and revellers.
Bollullos del Condado and few visitors. Matalascañas is totally
Rociana del Condado, is the heart At the Romería del Rocío (see self-contained. To one side
of this wine-growing district. pp42–3) in May, however, nearly there are dunes and forests
Niebla is of ancient origin. Its a million people converge on stretching as far as Mazagón, to
bridge is Roman, but its solid the village. Many are pilgrims the other the wild peace of the
walls are Moorish, as is the now who travel from all over Spain Doñana (see pp134–5).
ruined, 12th-century Castillo de
Niebla, also known as Castillo
de los Guzmanes.
Around Niebla, vineyards
spread out over the landscape,
which is dotted with villages
close to the main bodegas.
These include Bollullos del
Condado, which has the largest
cooperative winery in Andalucía
and also the Centro del Vino
Condado de Huelva. Here you
can learn about wine-growing
techniques and taste their wines
before making your purchase.
Bollullos and Palma del
Condado are good examples
of the popular young white
wines produced in the region.
Palma del Condado is best
visited in September when the
inhabitants celebrate the year’s
vendimia (grape harvest).
+ Castillo de Niebla
C/ Campo Castillo s/n. Tel 959 36 22 70.
Open 10am–2pm, 5–9pm Mon–Sun.
 Centro del Vino Condado
de Huelva
Calle San José 2. Tel 959 41 38 75.
Open 10am–2pm, 4–7pm Tue–Sat. Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Rocío in the village of El Rocío

134  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

rParque Nacional de Doñana

The National Park of Doñana is ranked among Europe’s
greatest wetlands. Together with its adjoining protected
areas (Parque Natural de Doñana), the park covers over
50,000 hectares (185,000 acres) of marshes and sand
dunes. The area used to be hunting grounds (coto)
belonging to the Dukes of Medina Sidonia and was
never suitable for human settlers. The wildlife flourished
and, in 1969, the area became officially protected. In
addition to a wealth of endemic species, thousands of Shrub Vegetation
migratory birds come to stay here in winter when the Backing the sand dunes is a thick
marshes flood again, after months of drought. carpet of lavender, rock rose and
other low shrubs.
Palacio del
Acebrón
El Rocío

La Rocina


H612




El Acebuche
Prickly Juniper
This species of juniper (Juniperus
oxycedrus) thrives in the wide Matalascañas
dune belt, rooting deep into the Palacio de Doñana
sand. The trees sometimes get
buried beneath the dunes.
Laguna de Santa Olaya


Key
Marshes
Dunes
Parque Nacional de Doñana
Parque Natural de Doñana
Road
Viewpoint
Coastal Dunes
Softly rounded, white dunes, up
to 30 m (99 ft) high, fringe the
park’s coastal edge. The dunes,
ribbed by prevailing winds off
the Atlantic, shift constantly.
Official Tour
Numbers of visitors are
KEY controlled very strictly.
On official day tours
1 Monte de Doñana, the wooded along rough tracks,
area behind the sand dunes, provide the knowledgeable
shelter for lynx, deer and boar. guides point out
2 Wild cattle use the marshes as elusive animals while
water holes. ensuring minimal
environmental impact.
For additional map symbols see back flap

HUEL V A AND SE VILLA  135

Deer
Fallow deer (Dama VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
dama) and larger Red
deer (Cervus elaphus) Practical Information
roam the park. Stags Road map B3.
engage in fierce Marginal areas: Open daily.
contests in late Closed 1 Jan, 6 Jan, Pentecost,
summer as they 25 Dec. n La Rocina: Tel 959 43
prepare for breeding. 95 69; n Palacio del Acebrón:
exhibition “Man and the Doñana”.
Open summer: 10am–3pm,
4–8pm; winter: 9am–7pm.
Tel 959 50 61 22. n El Acebuche:
reception, exhibition, café, shop.
Open 8am–9pm (to 7pm in
winter). Tel 959 43 96 29.
Self-guided footpaths: La
Rocina and Charco de la Boca;
El Acebrón from Palacio del
Acebrón; Laguna del Acebuche
from Acebuche.
Río Guadiamar Mon–Sat; winter: Tue–Sun.
Inner park areas: Open summer:
Guided tour only. Jeeps leave El
Acebuche 8:30am & 3pm (8:30am
& 5pm in summer). Booking
Imperial Eagle compulsory. Tel 959 43 04 32. &
José Antonio The very rare Imperial eagle ∑ donanareservas.com
Valverde (Aquila adalberti) preys on
small mammals.


Marisma de
Iznalcázar


Marisma
Gallega





Greater Flamingo
During the winter months, the salty lakes and
Río Guadalquivir (Phoenicopterus ruber) with crustaceans, its main diet.
marshes provide the beautiful, pink Greater flamingo


The Lynx’s Last Refuge
The lynx is one of Europe’s rarest mammals. In
Doñana about 50 individuals of Spanish lynx
(Lynx pardinus) have found a refuge.
They have yellow-brown fur
Sanlúcar de with dark brown spots and
J Barrameda pointed ears with black tufts. A
Fábrica research programme is under
de Hielo way to study this shy animal,
which tends to stay hidden
in scrub. It feeds mainly on
rabbits and ducks, and
0 kilometres 5
The elusive lynx, only spotted with patience sometimes on deer fawn.
0 miles 5

136  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


sparsely populated and, as it
is relatively cool in summer,
it can offer an escape from
the relentless heat of Seville.
In winter, you may meet the
occasional huntsman carrying
a partridge or hare.
Cazalla de la Sierra, the
main town of the area, seems
surprisingly cosmopolitan and
is popular with young sevillanos
at weekends. It has made a unique
contribution to the world of
drink, namely Liquor de Guindas.
This is a concoction of cherry
Scenic view over the rooftops of Lebrija with their distinctive red tiles liqueur and aniseed, whose
taste is acquired slowly, if at all.
tLebrija Archaeologists have speculated Constantina, to the east, is
that the changing course of the more peaceful and has superb
Sevilla. Road map B3. * 24,000. £
@ n Casa de Cultura, Calle Tetuán Guadalquivir may have led to views across the countryside.
15 (955 97 40 68). ( Tue. the demise of Itálica. Certainly, A romantic aura surrounds the
the city declined steadily after ruined castle, which is situated
The pretty, walled town of the fall of the Roman Empire, high above the town.
Lebrija enjoys panoramic views unlike Seville, which flourished.
over the neighbouring sherry- At the heart of the site you
growing vineyards of the Jerez may explore the crumbling
region (see p34). remains of a vast amphitheatre,
Narrow cobbled streets lead which once seated 25,000. Next
to Iglesia de Santa María de la to it is a display of finds from
Oliva. This is a 12th-century the site, although many of the
Almohad mosque with many treasures are displayed in the
original Islamic features, which Museo Arqueológico in Seville
was consecrated as a church by (see p101). Visitors can wander
Alfonso X (see p52). among the traces of streets
and villas. Little remains of the
city’s temples or baths, as
yItálica most stone and marble was Grazing cow in the empty expanses of the
plundered by builders over Sierra Norte de Sevilla
Sevilla. Road map B2. @ from Plaza de
Armas, Seville. Tel 955 12 38 47. Open the subsequent centuries.
Apr–mid-Jun: 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat, The village of Santiponce iCarmona
9am–2:30pm Sun & public hols; mid- lies just outside the site. Here,
Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–2:30pm Tue–Sun; some better-preserved Roman Sevilla. Road map B2. * 25,000. @
mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat, remains, including baths and a n Alcázar de la Puerta de Sevilla s/n
9am–2:30pm Sun & public hols. theatre, have been unearthed. (954 19 09 55). ( Mon & Thu.
∑ turismo.carmona.org
Scipio Africanus established
Itálica in 206 BC, as one of uSierra Norte Travelling east from Seville
the first cities founded by the Sevilla. Road map B2. £ Estación de on the NIV A4, Carmona is
Romans in Hispania. Later, it Cazalla y Constantina. @ Constantina; the first major town you come
burgeoned, both as a military Cazalla. n Calle Paseo del Moro 2, to. It rises above expansive
headquarters and as a cultural Cazalla de la Sierra (954 88 35 62). agricultural plains. Sprawling
centre, supporting a population suburbs spill out beyond the
of several An austere mountain range Moorish city walls, which can
thousand. flanks the northern border be entered through the old
Emperors of Sevilla province. Puerta de Sevilla. Inside, there
Trajan and Known as the Sierra is a dense concentration of
Hadrian were both Norte de Sevilla, mansions, Mudéjar churches,
born in Itálica. The it is a part of the squares and cobbled streets.
latter bestowed imperial greater Sierra The grandeur of Plaza de San
largesse on the city Roman mosaic Morena, which Fernando is characterized by
during his reign in the from Itálica forms a natural frontier the strict Renaissance façade
2nd century AD, adding between Andalucía and of the old Ayuntamiento. The
marble temples and other the plains of La Mancha and present town hall, located just
fine buildings. Extremadura. The region is off the square, dates from the
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p217 and pp230–31

HUEL V A AND SE VILLA  137


Écija has eleven 16th century. During the
Baroque church 1530s they founded the grand
steeples. A good collegiate church, Colegiata de
number are Santa María. Inside is a Baroque
adorned with retablo, and paintings by José
gleaming azulejos de Ribera. The dukes were also
(see p80) and the founders of the town’s
together they make Universidad, a rather severe
an impressive sight. building with a beautiful patio.
The most florid of Some fine mansions, among
these is the Iglesia them the Baroque Palacio del
de Santa María, Marqués de la Gomera, are
Tomb of Servilia, Necrópolis Romana, Carmona over-looking Plaza also a testament to the former
de España. Iglesia glory of this town.
18th century; in its courtyard de San Juan, adorned with
are some fine Roman mosaics. an exquisite bell tower, is a
Close by lies Iglesia de Santa very close rival. aEstepa
María la Mayor. Built in the The Palacio de Peñaflor is
15th century over a mosque, also in Baroque style. Its pink Sevilla. Road map C3. * 12,000.
whose patio still survives, this marble doorway is topped @ n Calle Aguilar y Cano s/n
(955 91 27 17). ( Mon, Wed & Fri.
is the finest of the churches. by twisted columns, while a ∑ estepa.es
Dominating the town, however, pretty wrought-iron balcony
are the imposing ruins of the runs along the front façade. Legend has it that when the
Alcázar del Rey Pedro, once a invading Roman army closed
palace of Pedro I, also known as P Palacio de Peñaflor on Estepa in 207 BC, the
Pedro el Cruel (the Cruel) (see C/Caballeros 32. Tel 954 83 02 73. townsfolk committed mass
p52). Parts of it now form a Closed for major renovation work. suicide rather than surrender.
parador (see p217). These days, life in this small
Just outside Carmona is town in the far southeast of
the Necrópolis Romana, the pOsuna Sevilla province is far less
extensive remains of a Roman Sevilla. Road map C3. * 17,500. £ dramatic. Its fame today
burial ground. A site museum @ n Calle Sevilla 37 (954 81 57 32). derives from the production
displays some of the worldly ( Mon. of its renowned biscuits –
goods buried with the bodies. mantecados and polvorones.
These include statues, glass Osuna was once a key Roman Wander among the narrow
and jewellery, as well as urns. garrison town before being streets of iron-grilled mansions,
eclipsed during the Moorish and sit on the main square to
P Ayuntamiento era. The Dukes of Osuna, who admire the beautiful black and
Calle Salvador 2. Tel 954 14 00 11. wielded immense power, restored white façade of the Baroque
Open 8am–3pm Mon–Fri. the town to prominence in the church, Iglesia del Carmen.
Closed public hols.
T Necrópolis Romana
Avenida Jorge Bonsor 9.
Tel 600 14 36 32. Open Tue–Sat.
Closed Mon & public hols.

oÉcija
Sevilla. Road map C2. * 40,000.
@ n Calle Elvira 1A, Palacio de
Benamejí (955 90 29 33). ( Thu.
∑ turismoecija.com
Ecija is nicknamed “the frying
pan of Andalucía” owing to its
famously torrid climate. In the
searing heat, the palm trees
which stand on the Plaza de
España provide some blissful
shade. This is an ideal place to
sit and observe daily life. It is
also the focus of evening strolls
and coffee-drinking. Wall painting on the ornate Baroque façade of Palacio de Peñaflor, Écija



AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA  139

CÓRDOBA

AND JAÉN


Córdoba, with its magnificent mosque and pretty
Moorish patios, is northern Andalucía's star attraction.
Córdoba province encompasses the Montilla and Moriles wine towns, as
well as Baroque treasures such as Priego de Córdoba. Jaén’s mountain passes
are gateways to the province’s beautiful Renaissance towns of Úbeda and
Baeza, and to the great wildlife reserves of the mountain ranges.

Córdoba, on Andalucía's mighty river, Running across the north of Córdoba and
the Guadalquivir, was a Roman provincial Jaén provinces is the Sierra Morena. Deer
capital over 2,000 years ago, but its golden and boar shelter in the forest and scrub
age came with the Moors. In the 10th of this broad mountain range. The sierras
century it was the western capital of dominate Jaén province. The great Río
the Islamic empire, rivalling Baghdad in Guadalquivir springs to life as a sparkling
wealth, power and sophistication. Today trout stream in the Sierra de Cazorla,
it is an atmospheric city, its ancient the craggy wilderness along its eastern
quarters and buildings reflecting a border. Through the ages, mule trains,
long and glorious history. traders, highwaymen and armies have
Córdoba’s surrounding countryside is used the cleft in Sierra Morena, known
dotted with monuments to its Moorish as Desfiladero de Despeñaperros, to cross
past, such as the Caliph’s palace of Medina from La Mancha and Castilla to Andalucía.
Azahara. To the south lies the Campiña, an Ancient castles perched on heights,
undulating landscape covered in endless once strategic outposts on the Moorish/
olives and vines, and green and gold Christian frontier, now overlook the
expanses of sunflowers and corn. Here peaceful olive groves punctuated by
and there are whitewashed villages and historic towns preserving gems of
hilltop castles with crumbling walls. post-Reconquest architecture.

























The city of Jaén with its spectacular cathedral against a backdrop of the Sierra Mágina mountains
Rows of granite and marble pillars and Moorish striped arches inside Córdoba's Mezquita mosque-cathedral

140  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Córdoba and Jaén

This region of rolling fields and craggy heights is divided by the
fertile Guadalquivir valley. On the northern banks of the river is
Córdoba with its famous Mezquita. The wild, uninhabited Sierra
Morena lies to the north, while southward is a farming area
dotted with historic towns, such as Priego de Córdoba. Further
east, amid the olive groves of Jaén, are the Renaissance jewels,
Baeza and Úbeda. From these towns it is an easy excursion to
the archaeological ruins of Cástulo and to the nature reserve
of Cazorla, which offers dramatic scenery and a glimpse of
deer and wild boar.

Main street of Cabra at siesta time

Belalcázar Santa
Zújar új Eufemia
Zúja
Zúj
Hinojosa
M O R E N A T O U R Torrecampo Guadalmez Puertollano
del Duque
d l
e
dalmez
S I E R R A Alcaracejos Añora Pozoblanco Conquista
Pedroche
Peñarroya-
Pueblonuevo
Villanueva M o r e n a
Bélmez de Córdoba
Fuente Cardeña
Obejuna S i e r r a
Espiel SANTUARIO VIRGEN
DE LA CABEZA
Embalse de
Villaviciosa Puente Nuevo
de Córdoba
éz z Embalse del
Bembézar
éza
Guadalmellato
ANDÚJAR
CÓRDOBA Adamuz MONTORO
Embalse
del Bembézar Villa del Río
MEDINA Arjona
AZAHARA CÓRDOBA Bujalance
Hornachuelos Porcuna
Embalse
del Retortillo Posadas
CASTILLO DE
ALMODÓVAR Guadajoz
da aj jo o
dajoz
PALMA DEL RÍO
DEL RÍO La Carlota Castro del Río
Fernán Núñez Espejo
La Rambla BAENA
MONTILLA
Sevilla Alcaudete
Doña Mencía
AGUILAR
a
CABRA
da o
Guadajoz
dajoz
Puente LUCENA PRIEGO DE
Genil CÓRDOBA
Embalse de
Cordobilla Rute
Benamejí Iznájar
Genil
Málaga
Ruins of the Roman-Iberian city of Cástulo near Linares
For additional map symbols see back flap

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  141


Sights at a Glance
2 Palma del Río y Santuario Virgen de la Cabeza
3 Castillo de Almodóvar u Baños de la Encina
del Río i La Carolina
4 Medina Azahara o Desfiladero de Despeñaperros
5 Córdoba pp144–50 p Cástulo
6 Montoro a Baeza pp156–7
7 Montilla s Úbeda pp158–9
8 Aguilar d Cazorla
9 Lucena f Parque Natural de Cazorla,
0 Cabra Segura y Las Villas
q Baena g Segura de la Sierra
w Priego de Córdoba
e Alcalá la Real Tour The town of Cazorla on the border of the nature reserve
r Jaén pp152–3 1 Sierra Morena
t Andújar





Valdepeñas
Embalse del
Guadalmena
DESFILADERO DE Puente de
DESPEÑAPERROS Génave Siles
Jándula dula l d Guadalén dalén d lé é Beas de SEGURA DE
Já
J
LA CAROLINA Segura LA SIERRA
Santisteban
Embalse del del Puerto
Embalse Guadalén Navas de Hornos VILLAS
de Rumblar BAÑOS DE San Juan Guadalimar DE VI V
LA ENCINA Arquillos Villanueva del LAS Santiago de
Arzobispo
Bailén Villacarrillo Embalse del NATURAL Y la Espada
Linares
Tranco de Beas
CÁSTULO Santo SEGURA
dalq
l
Mengíbar BAEZA ÚBEDA Tomé Guadalquivir PARQUE
PA
d
P
Guadalquivir
Peal de Becerro CAZORLA CAZORLA,
JAÉN CA C
Jódar
Quesada
d
di
JAÉN Mancha Guadiana Menor
Real
M
Me
Mágina Huesa
2167m
Martos
Huelma
Valdepeñas
de Jaén
Castillo de
Locubín
Getting Around
ALCALÁ LA
REAL Key A car is essential to explore the region
Granada fully. The main Autovía de Andalucía NIV
Motorway (A4) follows the Guadalquivir valley. To the
Major road north of the valley, public transport is
Granada
Minor road sparse, but there are frequent bus services
to the south. Córdoba is well served by
Scenic route
trains, including the AVE high-speed train
Main railway with fast connections to Seville, Madrid,
0 kilometres 20
Provincial border Málaga and as far as Lleida. Jaén is served
0 miles 10 Summit by four direct trains per day to Córdoba.

142  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


2Palma del Río El Cordobés, one of Spain’s most
famous matadors. As a youth he
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 19,500.
£ @ n Plaza Mayor de Andalucía would creep out into the fields
s/n (957 64 43 70). ( Tue. around the town to practise with
∑ palmadelrio.es the bulls. His biography, Or I’ll
Dress You in Mourning, gives a
Remains of the walls built by vivid view of Palma and of the
the Almohads in the 1100s hardship that followed the end
are a reminder of the frontier of the Civil War.
days of this farming town.
The Romans established a 3Castillo de
settlement here, on the main Almodóvar del Río
route from Córdoba
to Itálica (see p136), Córdoba. Road map C2. Tel 957 63 Detail of wood carving in the main hall of
almost 2,000 years ago. 40 55. Open 11am–2:30pm, 4–7pm Medina Azahara
The Baroque Iglesia Mon–Fri (to 8pm Apr–Sep), 11am–
de la Asunción dates 7pm Sat, Sun & public hols (to 8pm 4Medina Azahara
from the 18th century. Apr–Sep). & ∑ castillode Ctra Palma del Rio, km 5.5, Córdoba.
The monastery of almodovar.com Road map C2. Tel 957 10 49 33.
San Francisco is now Open Apr–mid-Jun: 9am–8pm Tue–
a delightful hotel One of Andalucía's most Sat, 9am–3pm Sun & public hols; mid-
(see p218), and dramatic silhouettes breaks Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3pm Tue–Sun;
guests dine in the skyline as the traveller mid-Sep–Mar: 9am–6pm Tue–Sat,
the 15th-century approaches Almodóvar del Río. 9am–3pm Sun & public hols. & (free
refectory of the The Moorish castle, with parts for EU citizens).
Franciscan monks. dating back to the 8th century,
Bell tower, La Palma is the home overlooks the white-washed To the northwest of Córdoba lies
Asunción town of the late town and surrounding fields. the remains of a Moorish palace
1 Sierra Morena Tour

The austere Sierra Morena runs across northern
Andalucía. This route through Córdoba province
takes in a region of oak- and pine-clad hills, where
hunters stalk deer and boar. It also includes the
open plain of Valle de los Pedroches, where storks
make their nests on church towers. The area,
little visited by tourists, is sparsely populated. Its
individual character is more sober than the usual 4 Hinojosa del Duque
image of Andalucía and it makes a delightful “Catedral de la Sierra”, the vast, 15th-century
pile of the Gothic-Renaissance Iglesia
excursion on a day out from Córdoba. San Juan Bautista, dominates the town.
It has a Churrigueresque retablo.
Rising at Fuente Obejuna
On 23 April 1476, townsfolk 2 Peñarroya-
Pueblonuevo
stormed the palace of the hated This was once
lord, Don Fernando Gómez an important
de Guzmán. He was hurled copper- and iron-
from a palace window, then
hacked to pieces in the main mining centre.
plaza. When questioned by
a judge who committed
the crime, the men and
women replied as one, 3 Fuente Obejuna
Lope de Vega “Fuente Obejuna, señor!” uente Obejuna, señor!” uente Obe The Plaza Lope de Vega is
“F “F
(1562–1635) often the venue for Lope
Nobody was punished, 1 Bélmez
at least according de Vega’s famous play. The Remains of a
to Lope de Vega’s best-known play, parish church, Nuestra 13th-century castle
named after the village. Señora del Castillo, was crown a hill, from which
built in the 15th century. there are fine views.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  143


built in the 10th century for 6Montoro more than 50 years to finish. The
Caliph Abd al Rahman III, who Córdoba. Road map D2. * 9,600. @ townswomen sold their jewellery
named it after his wife. More n Calle Corredera 25 (957 16 00 89). to raise funds for the bridge,
than 10,000 workers and 15,000 ( Tue. ∑ montoro.es hence its name: Puente de las
mules ferried building materials Donadas (Bridge of the Donors).
from as far as North Africa. Spread over five hills that span Steep streets give the town
The palace is built on three a bend in the River Guadalquivir, charm. In Plaza de España are
levels and includes a mosque, Montoro dates from the times the Ayuntamiento, former seat
the caliph’s residence and fine of the Greeks and Phoenicians. of the ducal rulers, with a
gardens. Alabaster, ebony, jasper Today the economy of this Plateresque façade, and the
and marble decoration adorned rather lethargic town depends Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia de
its many halls. on its olive groves. The solid San Bartolomé.
Unfortunately, the glory bridge, which was designed Leather bags and embossed
was short-lived. The palace was by Enrique de Egas, was started saddlery are among several
sacked by Berber invaders in in the time of the Catholic enduring crafts that are still
1010. Then, over centuries, it Monarchs (see pp52–3) and took produced in Montoro.
was ransacked for its building
materials. Now, the ruins give
only glimpses of its former
splendour – a Moorish main
hall, for instance, with marble
carvings and a fine wooden
ceiling. The palace is being
restored, but progress is slow.

5Córdoba
See pp144–50. The 16th-century bridge spanning the Guadalquivir at Montoro

5 Belalcázar
An immense tower, part Tips for Drivers
of a ruined castle built in Length: 190 km (118 miles).
1466, dominates the Stopping-off points: There are
skyline. In around 1480, many shady places to stop along
Sebastián de Belalcázar, the way to have a picnic. Some
conqueror of Nicaragua, of the villages along this route,
El Viso was born here. such as Fuente Obejuna, have
restaurants and bars.
Villaralto
6 Añora
Fuente la This town is famous for preserving
Lancha old customs, such as Cruces de
Mayo (May Crosses) (see p42).
Alcaracejos



7 Pedroche
A 56 m- (184 ft-)
Pelayo high granite
church tower,
with an alarming
crack in it, rises
above this village.

8 Pozoblanco Key
Pozoblanco entered Spanish
Cordoba folklore on 26 September 1984, Tour route
when matador Paquirri was Other roads
fatally gored by a bull here. Mountain peak

144  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

5 Street-by-Street: Córdoba

The heart of Córdoba is the old Jewish quarter
near the Mezquita, known as the Judería. A walk
around this area gives the visitor the sensation BELMONTE
that little has changed since this was one of the
BLANCO
greatest cities in the Western world. Narrow,
cobbled streets where cars cannot penetrate,
secluded niches, wrought-iron gates, tiny work- Sinagoga
shops where silversmiths create fine jewellery – Hebrew script covers the LUQUE
all appears very much as it was 1,000 years ago. interior walls of this medieval
Traffic roars along the riverfront, past the replica synagogue, the only one CALLE
remaining in Andalucía.
of a Moorish water wheel and the towering
walls of the Great Mosque. Most of the sights
are in this area, while modern city life takes DEANES
place some blocks north, around the Plaza
de las Tendillas.
PL CARDENAL SALAZAR








JUDÍOS
MANRÍQUEZ








Capilla de San TOMÁS CONDE
Bartolomé, in
Baños del Alcázar Califales Mudéjar style,
These 10th-century Arab baths now contains elaborate
house a museum recreating the plasterwork.
history and uses of the baths. AVENIDA DOCTOR FLEMING










To Barrio de
San Basilio

0 metres 75
. Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos 0 yards 75
Water terraces and fountains add to the tranquil
atmosphere of the gardens belonging to the Key
palace-fortress of the Catholic Monarchs,
constructed in the 14th century. Suggested route
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C Ó RDOBA  145

Callejón de las Flores
Colourful geraniums stand VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
out vividly against this
whitewashed narrow alley Practical Information
leading to a tiny square. Córdoba.
Road map C2. * 330,000.
n Plaza del Triunfo s/n (957
35 51 79). ( Tue, Fri & Sun.
_ Carnaval (Feb); Semana
Santa (Easter); Cruces de Mayo,
Festival de los Patios (May).
∑ turismodecordoba.org
Transport
VÍCTOR BOSCO
£ Glorieta de las Tres Culturas
(957 40 02 02 & 902 43 23 43).
@ Glorieta de las Tres Culturas
CÉSPEDES
HERRERO
(957 40 40 40).
. Mezquita
CARDENAL The mighty walls of the
Great Mosque hide a
forest of delicate
arches, pillars
MAGISTRAL GONZÁLEZ FRANCÉS
and a dazzling
mihrab.


CALLE DE TORRIJOS
CORREGIDOR QUEBRADO


Triunfo de
San Rafael
St Raphael, the
Puerta del city’s patron saint,
Puente is honoured by
this 18th-century
statue. Puerta del
AMADOR DE LOS RÍOS was once part of
Puente, nearby,
the city walls.


Palacio Episcopal
ISASA today the Palacio
de Congresos y
DE Exposiciones houses
the tourist office.
RONDA


STA TERESA DE JORNET
Puente Romano
The Romans were the
first to build a bridge
over the Río Guadal-
quivir. Rebuilt many
times, the bridge still
rests on its original
Roman foundations,
hence its name.

146  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Córdoba

Córdoba’s core is the old city around the Mezquita on the banks
of the Guadalquivir. Its origins are probably Carthaginian; the
name may be derived from Kartuba, Phoenician for “rich and
precious city”. Under the Romans it was a provincial capital and
birthplace of philosopher Seneca. However, Córdoba’s golden
age was in the 10th century when Abd al Rahman III created an
independent caliphate with Córdoba as its capital. Its influence
spread to North Africa and the Balearic Islands. Córdoba was
a centre of trade, industry and learning, where Jews and
Christians lived alongside Muslims. Civil war (see pp50–51)
ended the caliphate and the city was pillaged. It declined
after falling to Fernando III in 1236, although a number of Naranjas y Limones (Oranges and Lemons)
fine buildings have since been erected. in Museo Julio Romero de Torres

u Sinagoga in the 10th century, these well- R Mezquita
Calle Judíos 20. Tel 957 74 90 15. Open preserved Arab baths reflect the See pp148–9.
mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue– classical order of Roman baths:
Sun; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 9am–8:30pm cold rooms, warm rooms and E Museo Arqueológico
Tue–Sat, 9am–to 3:30pm Sun & hols. hot rooms. A museum recreates Plaza Jerónimo Páez 7. Tel 957 35
Constructed around 1315, the the social and religious history 55 17. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep:
Mudéjar-style synagogue is one and uses of the baths. 9am–3pm Tue–Sun & public hols;
of three in Spain preserved from mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 10am–8pm
that era. The other two are in + Alcázar de los Tue–Sat, 10am–3pm Sun & public
Toledo. The women’s gallery and Reyes Cristianos hols. &
decorative plasterwork, with C/Caballerizas Reales s/n. Tel 957 42 01 Located in a Renaissance
Hebrew script, are of particular 51. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 8:30am– mansion, this excellent
interest. The synagogue lies in 2:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–2:30pm Sun; archaeological museum
the Judería, the Jewish quarter, mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 8:30am–8:45pm features remains of a Roman
which has hardly changed since Tue–Fri, 8:30am–4:30pm Sat, 8:30am– theatre found beneath the
Moorish times. In a plaza nearby 3pm Sun. & building, including mosaics
is a bronze statue of Maimónides, This palace-fortress was built in and pottery, as well as
a 12th-century Jewish sage. 1328 for Alfonso XI. Fernando II impressive finds from the
and Isabel stayed here during Moorish era. Highlights in the
E Museo Taurino their campaign to conquer museum include Moorish
Plaza de Maimónides 1. Tel 957 20 10 Granada from the Moors (see p52). items such as a 10th-century
56. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 8:30am– Later it was used by the bronze stag found at Medina
3pm Mon–Sat, 8:30am–to 2:30pm Inquisition (see p55), and then Azahara (see p142). Also on
Sun; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 8:30am– as a prison. The gardens, with display is a marble sculpted
8:45pm Tue–Fri, 8:30am–to 4:30pm ponds and fountains, are open head of the Emperor Augustus,
Sat, 8:30am–2:30pm Sun. & in the evenings in July and dating to the 1st century AD,
∑ museotaurinodecordoba.es August. Behind the palace’s which was found in the area.
Housed in a 16th-century walls are Roman mosaics.
mansion, this museum features
memorabilia from some of P Puente Romano
Córdoba’s most popular This arched bridge has Roman
bullfighters, including paintings, foundations, but was rebuilt by
sculptures, posters and the Moors. Nearby, south of the
costumes, or trajes de luces. Mezquita is the 1571 Puerta del
Puente, designed by Hernán Ruiz.
E Baños del Alcázar Califales
Campo Santo de los Mártires. Tel 608 P Torre de la Calahorra
15 88 93. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: Tel 957 29 39 29. Open daily.
8:30am–2:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am– Oct–Apr: 10am–6pm; May–Sep:
2:30pm Sun & hols; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 10am–2pm, 4:30–8:30pm. &
8:30am–8:45pm Tue–Fri; 8:30am– At the end of the Puente
4:30pm Sat; 9:30am–2:30pm Sun & hols. Romano, this 14th-century
& (free 8:30–10:30am Mon–Fri). 7
tower houses a museum about
Built in the Umayyad Palace the life, culture and philosophy Moorish bronze of a stag from Medina
under orders from Al-Hakam II of 10th-century Córdoba. Azahara in the Museo Arqueológico
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C ÓRDOBA  147


E Museo Julio Romero P Palacio de Viana
de Torres Plaza Don Gome 2. Tel 957 49 67 41.
Plaza del Potro 1. Tel 957 47 03 56. Open Jul & Aug: 9am–3pm Tue–Sun
Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 8:30am– (also 9–11pm Fri & Sat); Sep–Jun:
2:30pm Tue–Sat, 9:30am–2:30pm Sun 10am–7pm Tue–Sat; 10am–3pm
& hols; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 8:30am– Sun. &
8:45pm Tue–Fri, 8:30am–4:30pm Sat; Tapestries, furniture, porcelain
8:30am–2:30pm Sun & public hols. & and paintings are displayed
Julio Romero de Torres (1874– in this 17th-century mansion.
1930), who was born in this house, Purchased by a savings bank
captured the soul of Córdoba in in 1981, the former home of
his paintings. Many depict nudes the Viana family is kept much as
in stilted poses. His style varied they left it. There are 14 beautiful
from the macabre Cante Hondo patios and a delightful garden.
(1930) to the humorous Naranjas
y Limones (1928).
Daily market in the arcaded Plaza de la
E Museo de Bellas Artes Corredera
Plaza del Potro 1. Tel 957 10 36 43.
Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm P Plaza de la Corredera
Tue–Sun & public hols; mid-Sep–mid- Built in the 17th century in
Jun: 9am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am– Castilian style, this arcaded
3:30pm Sun & public hols. square has been the scene of
Located in a former charity bullfights and other public
hospital, this museum exhibits events. The buildings have been
sculptures by local artist Mateo restored, but the cafés under
Inurria and Seville School the arches retain an air of the Central fountain in the garden of the
paintings by Zurbarán (see p70). past. A market is held here daily. 17th-century Palacio de Viana
Sights at a Glance
1 Sinagoga 8 Museo Arqueológico
2 Museo Taurino 9 Museo Julio Romero de Torres &
3 Baños del Alcázar Califales Museo de Bellas Artes
4 Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos 0 Plaza de la Corredera
5 Puente Romano
Train Station
6 Torre de la Calahorra 1km (0.6 miles)
Bus Station
7 Mezquita 1km (0.6 miles) D.LEÓN
PLAZA
SEVILLA DE LAS ALFONSO XIII
PLAZA TENDENILLAS
DR. EMILIO
LUQUE CLAUDIO Templo SAN PABL O Palacio de
Viana
TEJÓN Y MA RÍN S. DE FERIA L. DE AUSTRIA BA R R.SÁNCHEZ JESÚS MARÍA PLAZA DE MARCELLO O Iglesia de Iglesia de REALEJO
San Juan
Romano
JU A N DE M E N A
San Pablo
L L
A A LA COMPAÑÍA San Andrés
LEIVA AGU I
FERNÁNDEZ RUANO LAR R R OSO SAAVEDRA JUAN VALERA RELOJ MORALES
JUDÍOS ALMANZO R PASTO R S. ANA Museo CÓRDOBA FERNANDO CO LÓN PEDRO LÓPEZ
ALTA
Sinagoga PA P PLAZA DE AMBROSIO DE P. M UÑOZ PORTICOE S E S E G U TI ÉRREZ DE LOS RÍ O S
Arqueológico
BUEN
CAIRUÁN Museo ROMERO BLANC O B E L M ONTE R E Y JERÓNIMO HOR RNO DEL CRIS TO E U LOGIO DIARIO Iglesia PLAZA OTRIL
PÁEZ
Convento de
Taurino
MAESE LUIS
DE LA
la Encarnación
PL.JUDA O O CORREDERA
ALBUCASIS LEVI CARDENAL H E R E D I A SAN Francisco TORNILLO
HERRERO FERNANDO de San ARMA S
AVDA. DR FLEMING
Baños del T. MANRÍQUEZ Mezquita
Alcázar OSIO CABEZA S Museo Julio Romero de Torres &
Califales S. CLARA SAN Museo de Bellas Artes
PLAZA MAGISTRAL G. FRANCÉS
CAMPO CALLE LINEROS
DE LOS Palacio TORRIJOS E.R.T ORRES
MARTIRES Episcopal LUIS DE LA CERDA LUCANO
A A AM MAD O R DE LOS RÍOS PLAZA CARLOS RUBIO
ALHÓNDIGA
Triunfo de P A S E O D E L A R I B E R A
San Rafael Puerta del Puente 0 metres 250
Alcázar RONDA DE ISASA
de los Reyes 0 yards 250
Cristianos Río Guadalquivir
Puente
Romano Key
Torre de la
Calahorra
Street-by-Street (See pp144–5)
For keys to symbols see back flap

148  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Córdoba: the Mezquita

Córdoba’s great mosque, dating back 12 centuries,
embodied the power of Islam on the Iberian peninsula.
Abd al Rahman I (see p50) built the original mosque
between 785 and 787. The building evolved over
the centuries, blending many architectural forms.
In the 10th century al Hakam II (see p50) made
some lavish additions, including the elaborate
mihrab (prayer niche) and the maqsura (caliph’s
enclosure). In the 16th century a cathedral
was built in the heart of the reconsecrated Patio de los Naranjos
mosque, part of which was destroyed. Orange trees grow in the
courtyard where the faithful
washed before prayer.
Expansion of the
Mezquita
Abd al Rahman I built the original
mosque. Extensions were added
by Abd al Rahman II, al Hakam II
and al Mansur.















Key to Floorplan
Mosque of Abd al Rahman I
Extension by Abd al Rahman II
Extension by al Hakam II
Extension by al Mansur
Patio de los Naranjos

KEY
1 Puerta de San Esteban is set
in a section of wall from an earlier
Visigothic church.
2 The Puerta del Perdón is a
Mudéjar-style entrance gate, built
during Christian rule in 1377.
Penitents were pardoned here.
3 Capilla Mayor Torre del Alminar
4 The cathedral choir has This bell tower, 93 m
Churrigueresque stalls, carved by (305 ft) high, is built on
Pedro Duque Cornejo in 1758. the site of the original
minaret. Steep steps
5 Capilla Real
lead to the top for a
fine view of the city.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2