(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Seville & Andalucía

C Ó RDOBA  149

Cathedral
Part of the mosque was VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
destroyed to accommodate
the cathedral, started in Practical Information
1523. Featuring an Italianate Calle Torrijos s/n. Tel 957 47 05 12.
dome, it was chiefly Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat, 8:30–
designed by members of 11:30am & 3–7pm Sun & religious
the Hernán Ruiz family. hols (Nov–Feb: 10am–6pm Mon–
Sat & 3–6pm Sun & religious hols).
& 5 9:30am Mon–Sat; 10:30am
& 1pm Sun & public hols.
∑ mezquitadecordoba.org













. Arches and Pillars
More than 850 columns of granite,
jasper and marble support the roof,
creating a dazzling visual effect.
Many of them were taken
from Roman and
Visigothic buildings.





























. Capilla de Villaviciosa
. Mihrab The first Christian chapel
This prayer niche, richly ornamented, to be built in the mosque,
held a gilt copy of the Koran. The worn in 1371, the Capilla de
flagstones indicate where pilgrims Villaviciosa has stunning
circled it seven times on their knees. multi-lobed arches.

150  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


The Patios of Córdoba

Since early times, family and social life in Andalucía have revolved around the courtyard
or patio, which is at the heart of the classic Mediterranean house. The sleeping accom­
modation and living rooms were built round this space, which introduces air and light
into the house. Brick arches, colourful tiles, ironwork, orange and lemon trees, and
pots full of flowers add to the charm of these cool and tranquil retreats. Córdoba takes
pride in all its patio gardens, be they palatial spaces in the grandest residences or tiny
courtyards in humble homes, shared by many. There are traditional patios in the San
Lorenzo and Judería quarters and in Barrio San Basilio, west of the Mezquita.
Whitewashed
walls Tiled portrait of saint Orange trees













Festival de los Patios, when scores of
patios are thrown open to the public,
takes place in early May (see pp42–3).
The most beautifully decorated patio
wins a prestigious prize.
Andalucían Patio
This scene, painted by García
Rodríguez (1863–1925), evokes a
style of patio that is still common
in Andalucía. The patio walls are
usually immaculately whitewashed,
contrasting with the colourful display
of geraniums and carnations in
terracotta pots. Fragrant blooms of
jasmine add to the atmosphere.














Moorish-style Azulejos, a reminder Cancelas are A central fountain or
lamps, which now of the region’s Moorish attractively designed well traditionally
have electric bulbs, past, decorate many iron gates which screen provided water and
light the patio in the patios, adding to their the private patio from remains a feature of
late evening. colourful display. the street outside. many patios today.

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  151


7Montilla 9Lucena
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 23,000. Córdoba. Road map D2. * 40,000.
£ @ n Calle Capitan Alonso de @ n Palacio de los Condes de Santa
Vargas 3 (957 65 24 62). ( Fri. Ana, Calle San Pedro 42 (957 51 32 82).
( Wed. ∑ turlucena.com
Montilla is the centre of an
important wine-making region, Lucena prospers from furniture
but one that finds it difficult to making and from its brass and
emerge from the shadow of a copper manufacturers, and
more famous rival. The excellent produces interesting ceramics.
white wine is made in the same Under the caliphs of Córdoba
way as sherry (see pp34–5) and (see p50) it was an important
tastes rather like it but, unlike trading and intellectual centre, Statue of Santo Domingo, Iglesia Santo
sherry, does not need fortifying with a dynamic, independent, Domingo in Cabra
with alcohol. Some bodegas, Jewish community.
including Alvear and Pérez Iglesia de Santiago, with a also some noble mansions
Barquero, are happy to Baroque turret, was built on the and the Iglesia Santo Domingo
welcome visitors. site of a synagogue in 1503. with a Baroque façade.
The Mudéjar Convento de The Torre del Moral is the only Just outside the town,
Santa Clara dates from 1512 remaining part of a Moorish the Fuente del Río, source of
and the castle from the 18th castle. Granada’s last sultan, the Río Cabra, is a pleasantly
century. The town library is in Boabdil, was captured in 1483, leafy spot in which to picnic.
the Casa del Inca, so named and imprisoned here. Nearby,
because Garcilaso de la Vega, the 15th-century Iglesia de
who wrote about the Incas, San Mateo has a flamboyant qBaena
lived there in the 16th century. Baroque sacristy. Córdoba. Road map D2. * 20,000.
On the first Sunday in May @ n Virrey del Pino 5 (957 67 17 57).
 Bodega Alvear Lucena stages an elaborate ( Thu.
Avenida María Auxiliadora 1. Tel 957 65 ceremony, which honours
01 00. Open daily (call first to arrange the Virgen de Araceli. Baena’s olive oil has been famed
visit). ∑ alvear.es since Roman times. At the top
 Bodega Pérez Barquero of the whitewashed town is
Avenida Andalucía 27. Tel 957 65 05 0Cabra Iglesia Santa María la Mayor.
00. Open phone ahead to make an Córdoba. Road map D2. * 21,000. On the Plaza de la Constitución
appt, or e-mail info@perezbarquero. @ n Calle Mayor 1 (957 52 34 93). stands the handsome, modern
com. ∑ perezbarquero.com town hall. The Casa del Monte,
( Mon. ∑ turismo.cabra.eu
an arcaded mansion dating
Set amid fertile fields and vast from the 18th century, flanks
olive groves, Cabra was an it on one side.
episcopal seat in the 3rd century. Easter week is spectacular,
On a rise stands the former castle, when thousands of drummers
which is now a school. There are take to the streets (see p38).




The historic crest of the Bodega
Pérez Barquero
8Aguilar
Córdoba. Road map C2. * 13,500.
£ @ n Calle Villa 1 (957 66 17 71).
( Tue, Thu & Fri.
Ceramics, wine and olive oil
are important products in
Aguilar, which was settled
in Roman times. There are
several seigneurial houses,
and the eight-sided Plaza
de San José. Built in 1810, it
houses the town hall. Nearby
is a Baroque clock tower. Decoration on the façade of the 18th-century Casa del Monte, Baena
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

152  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

rJaén through an old mansion, the
Palacio Villardompardo. The
The Moors knew Jaén as geen, meaning “way station of palace also houses the Museo
caravans”. Their lofty fortress, later rebuilt as the Castillo de de Artes y Costumbres Populares
Santa Catalina, symbolizes Jaén’s strategic importance on and the Museo Internacional
the route to Andalucía from the more austere Castile. For de Arte Naïf Manuel Moral.
centuries this area was a battleground between Moors and R Capilla de San Andrés
Christians (see pp52–3). The older, upper part of the city holds Tucked away in a narrow
most interest. Around the cathedral and towards the Barrio alley next to a college lies
San Juan are numerous seigneurial buildings, long winding the Capilla de San Andrés, a
streets and steep alleys. The city centre is filled with smart Mudéjar chapel. The chapel
was founded in the 16th
shops, and in the evenings the narrow streets near Plaza de century, possibly on the site
la Constitución are filled with people enjoying the tapeo in of a synagogue, by Gutiérrez
the many bars. González, who was treasurer
to Pope Leo X and endowed
with extensive privileges. A
.R Catedral magnificent gilded iron screen
Plaza de Santa María. Tel 953 23 42 33. by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén
Open 10am–2pm, 4–7pm Mon–Fri, is the highlight of the chapel.
(to 6pm Sat), 10am–noon, 4–6pm Sun.
Andrés de Vandelvira, responsible R Real Monasterio de
for many of Úbeda’s fine buildings Santa Clara
(see pp158–9), designed the Founded in the 13th century,
cathedral in the 16th century. just after the Reconquest of
Later additions include two 17th- the city by Christian forces,
century towers that flank the Real Monasterio de Santa Clara
west front. Inside are carved choir is one of the most ancient
stalls and a museum with art. monasteries in Jaén. It has a
Every Friday, from 10:30am to lovely cloister, which dates
noon and 5 to 6pm, worshippers from about 1581. The church
can view the Lienzo del Santo has an artesonado ceiling and
Rostro. St Veronica is said to Horseshoe arches supporting the dome at shelters a curious 16th-century
have used this piece of cloth to the Baños Arabes bamboo image of Christ made
wipe Christ’s face, which left a in Ecuador. Sweet cakes are
permanent impression. a Moorish chieftain. They were offered for sale by the nuns
restored during the 1980s. from the convent.
P Baños Arabes The interior features horseshoe
Palacio Villardompardo, Plaza Santa arches, ceilings decorated R Iglesia San Ildefonso
Luisa de Marillac. Tel 953 24 80 68. with tiny star-shaped windows, This mainly Gothic church has
Open 9am–10pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm a hemispherical dome and façades in three different styles.
Sun. Closed public hols. two earthenware vats in which One is Gothic, with a mosaic of
These 11th-century baths bathers once immersed them- the Virgin descending on Jaén
are known as the baths of Ali, selves. The baths are entered during a Moorish siege in 1430.
A second is partly Plateresque
Olive Oil
Olive oil is the life-blood of Jaén and its province. Since the
Phoenicians, or possibly the Greeks, brought the olive tree to Spain
it has flourished in Andalucía, particularly in Jaén, which today has
an annual production of more than 200,000 tonnes of oil. Harvesting,
mostly by hand, takes
place from December
onwards. Quality is
controlled by a system
known as Denominación
de Origen Controlada.
The best product, virgin
olive oil, is made from
the first cold-pressing,
so that the full flavour,
Harvest time in one of the many olive groves vitamins and nutrients
in Andalucía of the oil are preserved. Shrine of Virgen de la Capilla in Iglesia
San Ildefonso
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  153


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Jaén. Road map D2. * 115,000.
n Calle Maestra 8 (953 31 32 81).
( Thu. _ Semana Santa (Easter);
Festividad de Nuestra Señora de
la Capilla (11 Jun); Feria de San
Lucas (18 Oct); Romería de Santa
Catalina (25 Nov).
Transport
£ Paseo de la Estación s/n (902
43 23 43). @ Plaza Coca de la
Piñera s/n. 953 23 23 00.
Mighty ramparts of Castillo de Santa Catalina
(see p29) and the third, by Later the Moors established E Museo Provincial
Ventura Rodríguez in the late a mighty fortress, only to lose Paseo de la Estación 29. Tel 953 10 13
18th century, is Neo-Classical. it to the crusading King 66. Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–
Inside, the high altar is by Pedro Fernando III in 1246. A larger 3pm Tue–Sun & public hols; mid-
and José Roldán. There is also a castle was then built with Sep–mid-Jun: 9am–8pm Tue–Sat,
chapel which enshrines the huge ramparts. This has been 9am–3pm Sun & public hols.
Virgen de la Capilla, Jaén’s restored and a medieval-style This building incorporates the
patron saint. The museum next parador (inn) built next door. remains of the Iglesia de San
door is devoted to the Virgin. It is worthwhile taking the Miguel and the façade of a 16th-
sinuous road up to the Torre century granary. A Palaeo-
+ Castillo de Santa del Homenaje and the castle Christian sarcophagus and
Catalina chapel. Even more rewarding Greek and Roman ceramics are
Carretera al Castillo. Tel 953 12 07 33 are the stunning views of the among the articles on display.
(tourist centre), 953 23 00 00 (parador). city, and the surrounding Nearby is the Plaza de las
Open daily. Closed public hols. & landscape, including the Sierra Batallas and a memorial to the
Hannibal is believed to have Morena hills thick with olive defeats of Napoleon at Bailén
erected a tower on this rocky trees and the mountains of the (see p57) and of the Moors at
pinnacle, high above the city. Sierra Nevada. Las Navas de Tolosa (see p52).

Sights at a Glance Domingo 0 metres 250
Santo
1 Catedral CÓRDOBAA Arabes 0 yards 250
CÓRDOB
CÓRDOB
Baños
2 Baños Arabes STMA. TRINIDAD
3 Capilla de San Andrés San Juan SAN ANDRÉS
Capilla de
4 Real Monasterio de CONCEPC IÓN VIEJA PLAZA. DE San Andrés
Santa Clara Castillo de REVENTÓN S. JUAN SANTA CRUZ DE P R I EG O
5 Iglesia San Ildefonso Santa Catalina Real Monasterio Museo Provincial
CLAVE L de Santa Clara HU E R TA S M ILL Á N 700 m (770 yards)
Train Station
C I R C U N VA L A C I Ó N LA CUMBRES AGUILAR M ARTÍNEZ MOLINA SAN B ARTOLOMÉ PLAZA DE C A ST I L L A PASEO DE LA ESTACIÓN ANDÚJAR
JACINTO
HIGUERAS
Bus
V ISTA
Station
PLAZA
DE LOS
DE MADRID
San
D E BU EN A PARRILLA AL MENDROS Bartolomé DOCTOR ARROYO JARDINILLOS SOLEDAD NAVAS DE TOLOSA AVENIDA
MADRE
C A R R E T E R A SAN LORENZO SAN CLEM ENTE C. NUEVA
PLAZA DE
Ancient Arco de CERVANTES SALIDO V VA
Walls S. Lorenzo de Vilches ÚBEDA
Palacio
ÁLAMOS PLAZA
DE LA
BA Z O
PLAZA CERÓN Diputación PESCADERÍA CONSTITUCIÓN
DE LA Palacio
MERCED Arzobispal PLAZA
DEL
MERCED ALTA PLAZA DE CAMPANAS Catedral BERNABÉ SORIANO IGNACIO FIGUEROA Iglesia San COBO MEDINA
PÓSITO
LT
L
L A PA Z
MONTERO MOYA
Ildefonso
HURTADO
CRUZ
ALT LT L A DE STA. ANA
C ON D E RUEDA OBI S P O MUÑOZ GARNICA
Ayuntamiento
Monasterio de MESA S.FERNANDO PEDRO DÍAZ
Santa Teresa
CO EL LO JORGE MORALES LOS ROMERO
For keys to symbols see back flap

154  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA




















The Moorish Castillo de la Mota and the ruined church crowning the hill above Alcalá la Real
wPriego de the sacristy chapel, created in during the Civil War. Today
Córdoba 1784 by local artist Francisco the house contains a museum
Javier Pedrajas. Its sumptuous about him and his life.
Córdoba. Road map D2. * 23,000. ornamentation in the form of At the end of the street is the
@ n Plaza de la Constitución 3 (957 sculpted figures and plaster Fuente del Rey, or King’s
70 06 25). ( Sat. ∑ turismode scrolls and cornices can be Fountain. This is a Baroque
priego.com
overwhelming. The main altar is extravaganza, with three pools,
in Plateresque style (see p29). and includes Neptune among
Priego de Córdoba lies on a The Iglesia de la Aurora is its exuberant statuary.
fertile plain at the foot of La another fine Baroque building. May is one of the liveliest
Tiñosa, the highest mountain in At midnight every Saturday the months to visit Priego. Every
Córdoba province. It is a pleasant cloaked brotherhood of Nuestra Sunday a procession celebrates
small town with an unassuming Señora de la Aurora, parades the town’s deliverance from a
air, well away from the main the streets singing songs to the plague which devastated the
routes, and yet it claims to be Virgin and collecting alms. population centuries ago.
the capital of Córdoba Baroque. Silk merchants built many of
The title is easy to accept in view the imposing mansions that
of the dazzling work of local follow the curve around the eAlcalá la Real
carvers, gilders and ironworkers. Calle del Río. Niceto Alcalá Jaén. Road map D2. * 22,000. @
The town’s labyrinthine old Zamora was born at No. 33 in n Palacio Abacial, Avenida de las
quarter was the site of the original 1877. A brilliant orator, he Mercedes, s/n (953 10 28 68). ( Tue.
Arab settlement. But the 18th became Spain’s president in
century, when silk manufacture 1931, but was forced into exile Alcalá was a strategic point
prospered, was Priego’s golden held by the military Order of
age. During this time elegant Calatrava during Spain’s
houses were built and money Reconquest (see pp52–3). On
was lavished on fine Baroque the hilltop of La Mota are the
architecture, particularly churches. ruins of the Moorish Fortaleza
A restored Moorish fortress, de la Mota, built by the rulers of
standing on Roman foundations, Granada in the 14th century,
introduces visitors to the fine with later additions. Nearby
medieval quarter, Barrio de la are ruins of the town’s former
Villa. Whitewashed buildings main church. There are splendid
line its narrow streets and views over the countryside and
flower-decked squares. Paseo the historic town, with its air of
Colombia leads to the Adarve, past glories. The Renaissance
a long promenade with views Palacio Abacial and Fuente de
Carlos V are the chief attractions are the chief attractions
of the surrounding countryside. Carlos Varlos V
C
The nearby Iglesia de la to be found around the plaza in
Asunción is an outstanding the centre of the town.
structure. Originally Gothic in
style, it was converted to a
Baroque church by Jerónimo rJaén
Sánchez de Rueda in the 18th Fine statuary ornaments the 16th-century
century. Its pièce de résistance is Fuente del Rey at Priego de Córdoba See pp152–3.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  155


tAndújar
Jaén. Road map D2. * 40,000. £
@ n Torre del Reloj Plaza de Santa
Maria s/n (953 50 49 59). ( Tue.
This strategically situated town
was once the site of Iliturgi, an
Iberian town that was destroyed
by Scipio’s army in the Punic Wars
(see p48). A 15-arched bridge
built by the Roman conquerors Roman bridge spanning the Guadalquivir at Andújar
still spans the Guadalquivir river.
In the central plaza is the and the original statue of the the main square. Just outside
Gothic Iglesia San Miguel, with Virgin were destroyed in 1937 in town is a monument to a battle
paintings by Alonso Cano. The the Civil War (see pp58–9). For nine at Las Navas de Tolosa in 1212.
Iglesia Santa María la Mayor months 230 civil guards held Alfonso VIII, king of Castile, was
features a Renaissance façade and out against Republican forces. led by a shepherd over the hills
a splendid Mudéjar tower. Inside Twenty thousand men attacked to Las Navas, where he crushed
is the painting Christ in the Garden the sanctuary before it burned the Moors. His victory began
of Olives (c.1605) by El Greco. down. Captain Santiago Cortés, the reconquest of Andalucía
The town is also renowned for commander of the civil guard, (see pp52–3).
its potters, who still turn out died from his battle wounds.
ceramics in traditional style. Olive On the last Sunday in April, oDesfiladero de
oil (see p152), which is produced thousands make a pilgrimage to
in Andújar, figures strongly in the the sanctuary to pay homage Despeñaperros
local cuisine. to the Virgin (see p43).
Jaén. Road map E1. n Visitors
Centre, Auto via de Andalucía (A4) km
ySantuario Virgen uBaños de la Encina 262 Santa Elena, Jaén (953 66 43 58).
de la Cabeza Jaén. Road map D2. @ from Linares This spectacular pass in the
Sierra Morena is the main
Padres Trinitarios. Road map D2. & Jaén. Tel Avenida José Luis Messía 2. gateway to Andalucía. Armies,
Tel 953 54 90 15. Open daily. 7 953 61 33 38. Open Wed–Mon. stage-coaches, mule-trains and
5 9am, 10am, 11am, noon, 1pm, ∑ bdelaencina.com brigands all used the pass, so
6pm (winter), 8pm (summer). Caliph al Hakam II (see p50) hold-ups were common.
∑ santuariovirgencabeza.org
ordered the construction of this The four-lane Autovía de
fortress, Castillo de Burgalimar, Andalucía and a railway line
North of Andújar, amid the oak in the foothills of the Sierra thread their way through the
trees and bull ranches of the Morena in AD 967. Rising above chasm, which offers views
Sierra Morena, is the Santuario the village, it is a daunting sight of rock formations – Los Organos
Virgen de la Cabeza. Within this with its 15 towers and soaring (the organ pipes) and the
grim stone temple from the 13th ramparts. Its heights give views Salto del Fraile (monk’s leap).
century, is a much-venerated across pastures and olive groves.
Virgin. According to tradition During the spring fair there is
her image was sent to Spain by a romería (see p42) to the town’s pCástulo
St Peter. Much of the building shrine of the Virgen de la Encina. Jaén. Road map E1. @ from
According to tradition, the Virgin Linares & Jaén. Open daily.
made a miraculous appearance ∑ viajealtiempodelosiberos.com
on an encina (holm oak tree).
Around 7 km (4 miles) from
Linares are the ruins of the
iLa Carolina ancient city of Cástulo. Evidence
of human life dating to the
Jaén. Road map E1. * 15,500. @
n Plaza del Ayuntamiento 1 (953 66 Neolithic period has been
00 34). ( Tue & Fri. discovered here along with traces
of late Neolithic-Chalcolithic huts
Founded in 1767, La Carolina and tools from the Bronze Age.
was populated by settlers from The site’s museum, the Museo
Germany and Flanders. This was Arqueológico de Linares,
an ill-fated plan to develop the displays exhibits found in the
area and to make it safer for area. Highlights include the Ibero-
travellers. The person in charge, Roman León and the Patena de
Replica of the statue of the Virgin Mary, Carlos III’s minister, Pablo de Cristo, considered one of the
Santuario de la Cabeza Olavide, had a palace built on earliest representations of Christ.

156  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

aStreet-by-Street: Baeza

Nestling amid olive groves, beautiful Baeza is a small
town, unusually rich in Renaissance architecture. In
2003 it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Called
Beatia by the Romans and later the capital of a Moorish
fiefdom, Baeza is portrayed as a “royal nest of hawks”
on its coat of arms. It was conquered by Fernando III
in 1226 – the first town in Andalucía to be definitively
won back from the Moors – and was then settled by . Palacio de Jabalquinto
Castilian knights. An era of medieval splendour followed, An Isabelline (see p28) style
reaching a climax in the 16th century, when Andrés de façade, flanked by elaborate,
Vandelvira’s splendid buildings were erected. In the early rounded buttresses, fronts
this splendid Gothic palace.
20th century, Antonio Machado, one of his generation’s
greatest poets, lived here for some years.
SAN FELIPE NERI


PLAZA
SANTA
CRUZ



COMPAÑÍA BEATO ÁVILA




Antigua Universidad ROMANONES
From 1542 until 1825, this
Renaissance and Baroque BARBACANA
building was the site of one
of Spain’s first universities.
Torre de los
Aliatares is a
1,000-year-old tower
built by the Moors. To Úbeda MERCADERIAS


PLAZA DE PASEO DE
ESPAÑA LA CONSTITUCIÓN
PASEO
DE TUNDIDORES
O.
BECERRA
NARVAEZ
Casas
Consistoriales Bajas
GASPAR
Ayuntamiento
Formerly a jail and a courthouse, the
town hall is a dignified Plateresque La Alhóndiga, the
structure (see p29). The coats of arms of old corn exchange, has
Felipe II, Juan de Borja and of the town impressive triple-tier arches
of Baeza adorn its upper façade. running along its front.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  157


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Jaén. Road map E2. * 19,000.
n Plaza del Pópulo s/n (953 77
99 82). ( Tue. _ Semana Santa
(Easter); Feria (mid-Aug).
∑ andalucia.org
Transport
£ Linares-Baeza 15 km (9 miles)
(902 43 23 43). @ Avda Alcalde
Puche Pardo (953 74 24 53).

PLAZA
SANTA . Catedral
MARÍA
The impressive
cathedral was rebuilt in
1567 by Andrés de
Vandelvira. The Capilla
Sagrario has a beautiful
choir screen by
Bartolomé de Jaén.

OBISPO MENGIBAR


Fuente de Santa María
Architect-sculptor Ginés Martínez of Baeza
designed this fountain in the form of a
triumphal arch. It was completed in 1564.
GIL Antigua Carnicería
now houses the
SAN offices of the Justice
Department.




Puerta de Jaén y Arco de Villalar
This gateway in the city ramparts is
adjoined by an arch erected in 1521 to
appease Carlos I (see p54) after a rebellion.








To Jaén
Key
Tourist information
Suggested route
. Plaza del Pópulo
The Casa del Pópulo, a fine Plateresque palace,
now the tourist office, overlooks this square. In its 0 metres 75
centre is the Fuente de los Leones, a fountain with
an Ibero-Roman statue flanked by lions. 0 yards 75

158  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

sÚbeda to the columns supporting
the main doorway.
Perched on the crest of a ridge, Úbeda is a showcase of Crowning the corners of the
Renaissance magnificence. Thanks to the patronage of some Classical façade are carved
of Spain’s most influential men of the 16th century, such stone lanterns. A museum of
as Francisco de los Cobos, secretary of state, and his great local pottery is in the basement.
The building also houses the
nephew, Juan Vázquez de Molina, a number of noble tourist information office.
buildings are dotted about the town. The Plaza de Vázquez
de Molina is surrounded by elegant palaces and churches and P Parador de Úbeda
is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown. The narrow streets of Plaza de Vázquez de Molina s/n.
the old quarter contrast sharply with modern Úbeda, which Tel 953 75 03 45. Patio Open to
non-guests daily. ∑ parador.es
expands north of the Plaza de Andalucía. In 2003 Úbeda Built in the 16th century but
became a UNESCO World Heritage Site. considerably altered in the
17th century, this was the
residence of Fernando Ortega
Salido, Dean of Málaga and
chaplain of El Salvador.
The austere palace is now
a hotel, which is also known
as the Parador Condestable
Dávalos in honour of a
warrior famed during the
Reconquest (see pp52–3).

R Santa María de los
Reales Alcázares
Built on the site of an original
mosque, this church, mainly
dating from the 13th century, is
being restored. Inside there is fine
Maestro Bartolomé’s choir screen at Capilla del Salvador ironwork by Maestro Bartolomé.
The Gothic cloister, with pointed
R Capilla del Salvador following the line of the old arches and ribbed vaults, and a
Three architects, Andrés de walls and offering views of the Romanesque doorway, are
Vandelvira (credited with surrounding countryside. particularly noteworthy.
refining the Renaissance style), Near the church is the Cárcel
Diego de Siloé and Esteban P Palacio de las Cadenas del Obispo (Bishop’s Jail), so
Jamete helped design this 16th- Pl de Vázquez de Molina. Tel 953 75 04 called because nuns punished
century landmark. It was built as 40. Open 8am–2:30pm Mon– Fri. by the bishop were confined
the personal chapel of Francisco Two stone lions guard Úbeda’s there. Today the building con-
de los Cobos, whose tomb lies town hall, which occupies this tains the town’s courthouse.
in the crypt. palace built for Vázquez de
Although the church was Molina by Vandelvira during the R Iglesia de San Pablo
pillaged during the Civil War (see mid-16th century. The building The three doors of this church all
pp58–9), it retains a number of gets its name from the iron date from different periods. The
treasures. These include a carving chains (cadenas) once attached main entrance is in late Gothic
of Christ, which is all that remains
of an altarpiece by Alonso de
Berruguete, Maestro Bartolomé
de Jaén’s choir screen, and a
sacristy by Vandelvira.
Behind the church are two
other buildings dating from
the 16th century – Cobos’s
palace, which is graced by a
Renaissance façade, and the
Hospital de los Honrados Viejos
(Honoured Elders). At the end of
Baja del Salvador is the Plaza de
Santa Lucía. A promenade leads
from this point along the
Redonda de Miradores, Stone lions guarding the Palacio de las Cadenas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  159

Sun & public hols; mid-Sep–May:
10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Sun & public hols.
Practical Information
This archaeological museum Jaén. Road map E2.
exhibits artifacts from Neolithic * 35,000. n Palacio Marques
times to the Moorish era. The de Contadero, Calle Baja del
display includes tombstones Marques 4 (953 77 92 04). ( Fri.
from the 1st century AD and _ Semana Santa (Easter).
Moorish and Mudéjar works in Transport
wood and plaster. It is located in £ to Linares-Baeza (953
the 15th-century Casa Mudéjar, 62 00 62 & 902 43 23 43).
among the many palaces and @ Calle San José 6
churches gracing the streets of (953 75 51 88).
the old quarter.
Statuary on the main entrance of Iglesia de P Hospital de Santiago Nearby, on Avenida de la
San Pablo Calle Obispo Cobos s/n. Tel 953 75 08 Constitución, is Úbeda’s bullring,
42. Open 10am–2pm, 5–9pm Mon– which is open during the fiesta.
style while the others are in Sat, 10am–2pm, 6–9pm public hols.
transitional Romanesque and Closed Sun in Jul; Sat & Sun in Aug.
Isabelline. Inside is an apse, which Created on the orders of the
dates from the 13th century and Bishop of Jaén around 1562, this
a beautiful 16th-century chapel colossal former hospital was
by Vandelvira. The church is designed by Vandelvira. The
surmounted by a Plateresque façade is flanked by square
tower (1537). towers. Marble columns grace
Nearby on Plaza de Vázquez the patio with its central fountain.
de Molina is a monument to the A staircase leads up to the gallery
poet and mystic San Juan de la roofed by a frescoed ceiling.
Cruz (1549–91). Today the building houses
the Palacio de Congresos y
E Museo Arqueológico Exposiciones. At the entrance
Casa Mudéjar, C/Cervantes 6. is an information office, and in
Tel 953 10 86 23. Open Jun–mid-Sep: a corner of the patio there is a Distinctive steeples above the Hospital
9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm stone-vaulted café. de Santiago

Sights at a Glance OLLEROS E R TO A RME N
PLAZA
H U
1 Capilla del Salvador D E L C
2 Palacio de las Cadenas FUENT E SECA PLAZA DEL SAN T A CU E S T A DE
3 Parador de Úbeda FERNANDO de San Miguel CARMEN LUCI A
Convento
BARRIOS
4 Santa María de los M ONTEL CO B Hospital de los
Reales Alcázares S AN N IC O L A S Iglesia de MAT ILLA S O S Honrados Viejos
San Pablo
Iglesia de
PLAZA DE
5 Iglesia de San Pablo San Nicolás Bari 1º DE MAYO CONTADOR Capilla
HORNO
del Salvador
6 Museo Arqueológico CORREDERA DE SAN FERNANDO Museo R OQ U E R OJ A S de Úbeda ALMENAS
Parador
Arqueológico
7 Hospital de Santiago CA LL E TRIN I DA D AYUNTAMIENTO DE MOLINA ALCAZAR FOSO REDONDA DE MIRADORES
PLAZA DE
VAZQUEZ
PLAZA DE
Palacio de
Iglesia de la C A L L E R E A L las Cadenas
Santisima Trinidad Iglesia de S A L U D E J A
CALLE
San Pedro BAJA DE MARCOS Santa María
PLAZA DE
PLAZA DE
ANDALUCIA SAN PEDRO Convento de de los Reales
Alcázares
M I N A S
Santa Clara
CALLE MESONES CALLE PLAZA DEL SANTO DOMINGO COTRINA
Parque MARQUES JURADO G OMEZ
C ALL E VI C T O R I A OBISPO COBOS ANC HA
Vandelvira Iglesia de RA S T RO
San Isidoro
CARRERA
AVENIDA RAMON Y
CAJAL
AVENIDA DE
CIUDAD DE LINARE S Hospital de DE TOROS F UENTE DE RI VAS
Santiago
PLAZA
S A GA STA
LINARES C A L L E SA N JO SE LA CONSTITUCION
AVENIDA DE
BAILEN AVENIDA CRISTO REY
Bus station 0 metres 250
BAEZA AV A 0 yards 250
JAEN
For keys to symbols see back flap

160  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA





















Ruins of La Iruela, spectacularly situated above the road outside Cazorla
dCazorla former resident of Cazorla, San flows north through a delightful
Isicio, one of seven apostles who valley before reaching the
Jaén. Road map E2. * 8,500. @
n Paseo de Santa María, s/n (953 71 preached Christianity in Spain Tranco de Beas dam, where
01 02). ( Mon & Sat. _ International before the arrival of the Moors. it turns to run down towards
Blues Festival (Jul). the Atlantic.
E Castillo de la Yedra Cars are allowed only on
Cazorla was wealthy in ancient Folklore Museum: Tel 953 10 14 02 the main road. Many visitors
times when the Romans mined Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm explore on foot, but the Centro
the surrounding mountains for Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & public hols; de Recepción e Interpretación
silver. Today it is better known as mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm Tue–Sat; de la Naturaleza in the reserve
the jumping-off point for 10am–5pm Sun & public hols. can supply contacts for horse
visiting the Parque Natural de and bike hire companies and
Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas. fParque Natural provides a lot of useful infor-
Modern buildings have de Cazorla, Segura mation. There are also opportun-
proliferated, but it is pleasant to y Las Villas ities for hunting and angling.
stroll along the crooked streets
between Plaza de la Corredera Jaén. Road map E2. @ Cazorla. E Centro de Recepción e
and the charming Plaza Santa n Paseo de Santa María, s/n, Interpretación de la Naturaleza
María. The ruined Iglesia de Cazorla (953 72 01 02). Carretera del Tranco km 49, Torre del
Santa María forms a picturesque Vinagre. Tel 953 71 30 17. Open daily.
backdrop to this popular First-time visitors are amazed by
meeting place. Above stands the spectacular scenery of this gSegura de
the Castillo de la Yedra which 214,336-ha (529,409-acre)
houses a folklore museum. nature reserve with its thick la Sierra
On the road leading to the woodland, tumbling streams Jaén. Road map E1. * 2,200. @
park are the remains of La and abundant wildlife. Bristling n Paseo P Genaro Navarro 1 (953
Iruela, a much-photographed mountains rise over 2,000 m 48 07 84). ∑ seguradelasierra.es
fortress atop a rocky spur. On 14 (6,500 ft) above the source of
May the locals pay homage to a the Guadalquivir River. The river This tiny village at 1,200 m
(4,000 ft) above sea level is
dominated by its restored
Moorish castillo (ask for keys in
the village). From the ramparts
there are splendid views of the
harsh mountain ranges. Below
is an unusual bullring, partly
chipped out of rock. It sees most
action at the fiesta in the first
week of October.
Olive oil in the Segura de
la Sierra area is one of four
which bear Spain’s prestigious
Denominación de Origen
Moorish castillo at Segura de la Sierra, surrounded by olive groves Controlada label (see p152).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp217–18 and pp231–2

C Ó RDOBA AND JA É N  161


Wildlife in Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas

The nature reserve of Sierra de Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas protects a profusion
of wildlife. Most is native to the region, but some species have been introduced or
reintroduced for hunting. More than 100 species of birds live in Cazorla, some very rare.
It is the only habitat in Spain, apart from the Pyrenees, where the lammergeier can be
seen. The extensive forests are home to a range of plant life, such as the indigenous
Viola cazorlensis (see p25), which grows among rocks.










The golden eagle (Aquila Griffon vultures (Gyps fulvus) The lammergeier (Gypaetus
chrysaetus), king of the air, circle high above the reserve, barbatus) drops bones from a
preys on small mammals descending rapidly when they height on to rocks to smash
living in the reserve. catch sight of their prey. them and eat the marrow.
Landscape
The area’s craggy
limestone heights and
riverside meadows are
part of its attraction.
Water trickles down the
mountains, filling the
lakes and brooks of the
valley. This lush land-
scape provides ideal
habitats for a diversity
of wildlife.
















Red deer (Cervus elaphus), The Spanish ibex (Capra pyrenaica) Otters (Lutra lutra)
reintroduced to the area in is amazingly sure-footed on the rocky live around lakes and
1952, are most commonly terrain. Today, the few that remain streams and are active
seen in the autumn months. only emerge at dusk in order to feed. at dawn and dusk.
Wild boar (Sus scrofa) hide in
woodland by day and forage at
night for anything from acorns
to roots, eggs of ground-nesting
birds and small mammals.



AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA  163

CÁDIZ AND

MÁLAGA


Andalucía’s southern provinces offer striking contrasts.
Beyond Málaga’s suburbs are forested mountains with awesome natural
wonders, such as the Garganta del Chorro. Behind the tourist resorts of the
Costa del Sol is the Serranía de Ronda, habitat of elusive wildlife. Here, white
Moorish towns command strategic hilltop locations. East of Gibraltar are the sherry
towns of Cádiz province and the raw coastal strands of the Costa de la Luz.

In Málaga province the mountains fall the Costa del Sol. The mountains of North
steeply to the Mediterranean. The ancient Africa loom across the Strait of Gibraltar,
port of Málaga town was a wintering and the spirit of the Moors can be felt very
place for English travellers in the 19th clearly in Tarifa and Cádiz – author Laurie
century; then in the 1960s, the narrow Lee’s city “sparkling with African light”.
strip of coast to its east and west was Between these two towns is the Cádiz
claimed by the nascent tourist industry section of the Costa de la Luz (“Coast of
as the “Costa del Sol”. Light”) (see p36) which continues up
A rash of high-rise developments around north along the shores of Huelva province.
the beaches of grey sand at its eastern Little developed, it is characterized by
end soon made the name “Torremolinos” long stretches of windswept sand, popular
synonymous with the excesses of cheap with locals and windsurfers.
package holidays for the mass market. North of Cádiz is sherry country, with its
Meanwhile, further southwest at Marbella, hills and large vineyards. To taste sherry
an exclusive playground for international visit Jerez de la Frontera – once a link in
film stars and Arab royalty was taking shape. a chain of towns on the frontier of the
Gibraltar, a geographical and a historical Christian war to reconquer Andalucía
oddity, is a decisive full stop at the end of from its Muslim rulers.


























Ronda with its 18th-century bridge spanning the Guadalevín river
Whitewashed Moorish town near Estepona, Málaga

164  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Cádiz and Málaga

With a network of excellent roads across the region, the
mountains of Málaga province’s interior are easily accessible
to holiday-makers who are staying on the Costa del Sol.
Day trips can be made from either Marbella or Torremolinos
to the glorious Montes de Málaga and Grazalema nature
reserves or to the Serranía de Ronda, with lunch stops at
classic pueblos blancos. In the heart of this characteristic
Andalucían landscape lies the captivating mountaintop
town of Ronda, ensouled by clear, stark light and the
lingering aura of Moorish times.
Further west, on the Atlantic coast beyond Tarifa where
mass-market developers fear to tread, the same spirit lingers. Outside dining at a restaurant close to the
The once great city of Cádiz and the small ports of El Puerto cathedral in Málaga
de Santa María, Chipiona and Sanlúcar de Barrameda all
make excellent bases for exploring sherry country.
Sevilla
Olvera
Puerto Serrano
Sevilla Algondales
Trebujena Setenil
Espera Villamartín
Zahara de
Embalse la Sierra RONDA
SANLÚCAR DE Bornos de Bornos LA VIEJA
BARRAMEDA ARCOS DE LA Grazalema
FRONTERA
Embalse de RONDA
CHIPIONA los Hurones
JEREZ DE Ubrique
dalete
d l
LA FRONTERA Guadalete t Algar
Rota Embalse del P U E B L O S B L A N C O S d e
EL PUERTO DE Guadalcacín
SANTA MARÍA S e r ra n í a
CÁDIZ ro r
CÁDIZ Guadiaro
Puerto Real Paterna de
San Fernando Rivera Gaucín
MEDINA Alcalá de los
SIDONIA Gazules
Chiclana de la Jimena de
Frontera Embalse de la Frontera ESTEPONA
Barbate
Manilva
Embalse de
Conil de la Barbate rb r te t Guadarranque
Frontera SOTOGRANDE
VEJER DE
LA FRONTERA San Roque
BARBATE Los Barrios LA LÍNEA DE LA
Cabo LOS ALCORNOCALES
Trafalgar Facinas CONCEPCIÓN
Zahara de C
C o s t a
los Atunes Algeciras
CA
GIBRALTAR
d e
BAELO
l a
CLAUDIA
L u z
Key Punta de TARIFA
Tarifa
Motorway E s t re c h o d e G i b ra l t a r
Major road Punta
Minor road Almina
Scenic route CEUTA
AVE train link MOROCCO
Minor railway
TANGIER
International border
Provincial border
For additional map symbols see back flap

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  165

Sights at a Glance
1 Sanlúcar de Barrameda w Gibraltar pp174–5 a Garganta del Chorro
2 Chipiona e La Línea de la Concepción s Fuente de Piedra
3 Jerez de la Frontera r Sotogrande d Antequera
4 El Puerto de Santa María y Arcos de la Frontera f El Torcal
5 Cádiz pp168–71 u Ronda la Vieja g Archidona
6 Medina Sidonia i Ronda pp178–9 h Nerja
7 Vejer de la Frontera o Parque Natural Sierra de j The Axarquia
8 Barbate las Nieves k Montes de Málaga
9 Baelo Claudia p Álora l Málaga
0 Tarifa z Torremolinos
q Los Alcornocales Córdoba x Benalmádena
c Fuengirola
Puente Genil Granada v Marbella
b Estepona
FUENTE DE n Tangier pp186–7
PIEDRA ARCHIDONA m Ceuta
Campillos , Melilla
Almargen ANTEQUERA Tour
Teba t Pueblos Blancos
Embalse de EL TORCAL
Guadalhorce
GARGANTA DEL
CHORRO
Cuevas del Colmenar Vinuela
Becerro
XA
X
Carratraca ÁLORA MONTES DE THE AXARQUIA
MÁLAGA
El Burgo Pizarra Vélez Torrox Motril
MÁLAGA MÁLAGA Malaga
R o n d a Alozaina Cártana Rincón de del Mar NERJA
Torre
PARQUE la Victoria
NATURAL Coín Alhaurín
SIERRA DE el Grande TORREMOLINOS
LAS NIEVES
Ojén BENALMÁDENA MELILLA
FUENGIROLA 0 kilometres 20
MARBELLA Calahonda S o l 0 miles 10
San Pedro
De Alcantara
d e l
o s t a
C
Getting Around
Málaga’s international airport (see p265) is the busiest
airport in Andalucía, and opened a third terminal
in 2010. The main highway linking the Costa del
Sol resorts is the A7/N340, with the AP7 toll road an
option from Torremolinos to Guadiaro. After Algeciras,
the road narrows and continues (N340 and A48)
to Cádiz. The highway A376 from San Pedro de
Alcántara northwards to Ronda is a sensationally
beautiful route. The A382 and A384 cut across the
north from Jerez towards Antequera. The route
then continues as a dual carriageway, known as the
A92, to Granada. A railway running along the Costa
del Sol links Málaga, Torremolinos and Fuengirola.
Another heads north from Málaga, stopping at Álora,
El Chorro and Fuente de Piedra. Although you will
find it possible to explore remote corners of Cádiz
and Málaga provinces using the complex bus The beach of Nerja, situated at the foot of Sierra
network, it requires some patience. de Almijara on the Costa del Sol

166  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


Nearby is La Atalaya Theme
Centre, including two museums:
the magical Palacio del Tiempo,
home to the most impressive
clocks in Europe, and El Misterio
de Jerez, which pays tribute to
the history of sherry in the area.
The old city walls flank the
Barrio de Santiago. On Plaza de
San Juan is the 18th-century
Palacio de Pemartín, the home
of the Centro Andaluz de
Entrance to the Barbadillo bodega in Sanlúcar de Barrameda Flamenco, which, through
exhibitions and audiovisual
1Sanlúcar de and a holiday atmosphere in shows, offers an insight to this
Barrameda the summer. Days on the beach music and dance tradition (see
pp32–3). The 16th-century
are followed by a paseo along
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 62,000. @ the quay or the main street of the Gothic Iglesia de San Mateo is
n Calle Calzada Duquesa Isabel s/n Moorish old town, where many just one of several interesting
(956 36 61 10). ( Wed. cafés and ice-cream parlours churches nearby.
(heladerías) stay open well past The partially restored,
A fishing port at the mouth of midnight. There are also street 11th-century Alcázar includes a Alcázar includes a Alcázar
the Guadalquivir river, Sanlúcar entertainers and horse-drawn well-preserved mosque, now
is overlooked by the Moorish carriages. The Iglesia de Nuestra a church. Just to the north of
Castillo de Santiago. The Parque Señora de Regla, the main the Alcázar is the Catedral del
Nacional de Doñana (see pp134– church, has a natural spring Salvador, whose most interesting
5), over the river, can be reached feeding a fountain, and an sight, The Sleeping Girl by The Sleeping Girl by The Sleeping Girl
by boat from the riverside quay. adjoining cloister decorated Zurbarán, is in the sacristy.
From here Columbus set off on with 17th-century azulejos.
his third trip to the Americas, P Real Escuela Andaluza de
in 1498, and in 1519 Ferdinand 3Jerez de la Arte Ecuestre
Magellan left the port intending Avenida Duque de Abrantes s/n.
to circumnavigate the globe. Frontera Tel 956 31 96 35 (information, press
However, Sanlúcar is now Cádiz. Road map B3. * 186,000. k 2 for English). Open 10am–2pm
best known for its manzanilla £ @ n Plaza del Arenal, Edificio Los Mon–Fri. & 7 ∑ realescuela.org
(see p34), a light, dry sherry Arcos (956 33 88 74). ( Mon. + Alcázar
from, among other producers, ∑ turismojerez.com Alameda Vieja s/n. Tel 956 14 99 55.
Bodegas Barbadillo. Open daily. Closed 25 Dec, 1 & 6 Jan.
Visitors can sip a copita (little Jerez, the capital of sherry & 8
glass) of manzanilla and enjoy production, is surrounded by E La Atalaya Theme Centre
the local shellfish, langostinos. chalky countryside blanketed Calle Cervantes 3. Tel 902 18 21 00.
There is also a museum on site, with long rows of vines. British Open Mon–Fri for guided tours only.
Museo de Manzanilla, which merchants have been involved & 8 7
traces the history of the drink. for centuries in producing and P Palacio de Pemartín
Sights in the town include the shipping sherry, and have created
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Anglo-Andaluz dynasties like Centro Andaluz de Flamenco, Plaza
de San Juan 1. Tel 956 90 21 34. Open
la O (see p28), which has superb Sandeman and John Harvey – 9am–2pm Mon–Fri. Closed public hols.
Mudéjar portals. names which can be seen
emblazoned over the bodega
 Bodegas Barbadillo entrances. A tour of a bodega,
C/Luis de Eguilaz 11. Tel 956 38 55 21. through cellars piled high with
8 11am Tue–Sat in English. & 7 soleras (see p35), will enable
E Museo de Manzanilla: Open visitors to learn how to distin-
10am–3pm daily. ∑ barbadillo.net guish a fino from an amontillado
and an oloroso sherry (see p34).
Jerez has a second claim to
2Chipiona world fame, the Real Escuela
Andaluza de Arte Ecuestre –
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 17,000. @
n Calle Del Castillo 5 (956 92 90 65). the school of equestrian art. On
( Mon. ∑ turismochipiona.es selected days, in a display of
exquisite dressage, the horses
A lively little resort town, Chipiona dance to music amid colourful
is approached through sherry pageantry. Visitors can arrange Antique clock in Palacio del
vineyards. It has a great beach to watch horses being trained. Tiempo, Jerez de la Frontera
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  167


4El Puerto de Scattered around the town are + Castillo San Marcos
Santa María several fine old palacios, or stately Plaza Alfonso X, El Sabio. Tel 956 85 17
houses, adorned with the coats 51. Open for tours (in English): Jul–Sep:
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 76,000. k of arms of wealthy families who 11:30am Wed–Mon; Oct–Jun: 11:30am
£ @ n Palacio de Aranibar, Plaza prospered in the port during Tue, Thu & Sat. & 7
de Alfonso X El Sabio 9 (956 48 37 14). colonial times. P Plaza de Toros
( Tue. ∑ turismoelpuerto.com
The waterfront is lined with Plaza Elias Ahuja s/n. Tel 956 86 11 88.
quite a few first-rate seafood Open daily. 7
Sheltered from the Atlantic wind restaurants, among  Bodegas Osborne
and waves of the Bay of Cádiz, El them La Resaca (the Calle de los Moros 7. Tel 956 86 91 00.
Puerto de Santa María is a tranquil Hangover), where, Open daily (reservation required).
town which has burgeoned as when it is dark, 7 &
one of the main ports for the dancers perform
exportation of sherry in Andalucía. fiery flamenco.  Bodegas Terry
Sherry companies, such as Terry C/ San Ildefonso 3 . Tel 956 15 15 00.
and Osborne, have bodegas here, Open Mon–Fri (phone to arrange).
Closed public hols.
which can be visited for tours 7 &
and tasting.
Among the town’s sites are
the 13th-century Castillo San
Marcos and a Plaza de Toros –
one of the largest and most
famous bullrings in Spain. The
town’s main square, the Plaza
Mayor, is presided over by the
13th-century, Gothic Iglesia
Mayor Prioral, which is worth
a look for its unusual choir. El Puerto de Santa María’s 13th-century Castillo San Marcos

Bodegas of Jerez
Real Escuela Andaluza
Touring bodegas and tasting de Arte Ecuestre
Bodegas
sherry is one of the major C . Sandeman
reasons for visiting Jerez. The AV. DUQUE DEL
tourist office here will supply La Atalyaka P I Z A R R O ABRANTES
a list of bodegas offering Theme Centre SE V IL LA
tours, and a tour time-table. Bodegas OLIVAR D. PASTORA
Wisdom
The most comprehensive C A L L E & Warter DOMINGO Bodegas
Williams
tours are those that are C. LUÍS PÉREZ D EL Bodegas C AL L E & Humbert PZA. DE
PEDRO
offered by González Byass, L E A L A S P. Garvey NUÑO DE CAÑAS Plaza de ROMERO
C
CA
C. JUAN
Pedro Domecq C. PONCE GUADALETE SANTO Toros BELMONTE PAZ
and Sandeman. ZARAGOZA C . C IRCO L A
C. ANCHA CALLE CALLE D E
CALLE MERCED LOS ÁNGELES Iglesia CAL LE P OR VE R A L LÓ ALAMEDA CALLE ROSARIO C. CONOCEDORES C. PAJARETE CALLE 29 DE OCTUBRE C. GENERAL SE ÑO R A
PLAZA DE
PLAZA DE
C. CANCILLERÍ A
S. ANDRÉS
C.GAITÁN MAMELÓN
CRISTINA
MURO
MOSCARDÓ
Palacio
Convento de
CALLE C. JUSTICIA Pemartín de San Juan Santo Domingo C. CARACUEL ADEDIOS C. VALIENTES C A LL E CL AV E L NUESTRA
de
PLAZA RAFAEL
RIVERA C. Bodegas C.
Iglesia de CALLE BIZCONEROS C. GASPAR FERNÁNDEZ John Harvey
CALLE ALCALDESA
San Mateo CALL E FRANCOS EGUILAR
Iglesia de C. DOCTRINA C A L L E A R C O S
CAL LE SAN F ERNANDO
PLAZA DE C.CASTEL- San Dionisio HONDA CALLE Train Station
LANOS
LOS PEONES
C. SAN BLAS C. SAN C. SALVADOR AMARGURA PLAZA DE LA CALLE LA RGA MEDINA 1.5km (1 mile)
Bus Station
ASCUNCIÓN
L
CALLE
1km (0.6 mile)
LV
CAMPANILLAS
Bodegas
RONDA DEL CARACOL
Pedro Domecq F J. L. DÍEZ
Catedral del CONSISTORIO
F O
Salvador PLAZA
ILD EF ONSO
PUERTA DE ROTA
DEL
CALLE CALZADA Bodegas C. MAN UEL MARÍA GONZÁL EZ ARENAL 0 metres 500
500
El Alcázar
0 yards
González Byass
CUESTA DE LA CHAPARRA
CUESTA DE Key
LA ALCUBILLA
Bodega
For map symbols see back flap

168  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

5 Cádiz

Jutting out of the Bay of Cádiz, and almost entirely surrounded
by water, Cádiz can lay claim to being Europe’s oldest city.
Legend names Hercules as its founder, although history credits
the Phoenicians with establishing the town of Gadir in 1100 BC.
Occupied by the Carthaginians, Romans and Moors in turn,
the city also prospered after the Reconquest (see pp52–3) on
wealth taken from the New World. In 1587 Sir Francis Drake
raided the port in the first of many British attacks in the war
for world trade. In 1812 Cádiz briefly became Spain’s capital Terracota bust of a Roman goddess
when the nation’s first constitution was declared here (see p56).
in the Museo de Cádiz
Exploring Cádiz The joy of visiting Cádiz is to The pride of Cádiz is Los
Writers have waxed lyrical over wander the harbour quayside, Carnavales (see p43). Under the
Cádiz for centuries: “ … the with its well-tended gardens and dictator Franco, Cádiz was the
most beautiful town I ever open squares, then plunging only city where the authorities
beheld … and full of the finest into the centre (see p170–71). failed to suppress the anarchy
women in Spain,” gushed Lord The old town is full of narrow, of carnival.
Byron in 1809. Modern Cádiz is dilapidated alleys, where flowers
a busy port, with a few ugly sprout from rusting cans mounted R Cádiz Cathedral
suburbs to get through before on walls beside religious tile Plaza Fray Félix. Tel 956 28 61 54.
arriving at the historic centre. paintings. Markets pack into tiny Open 10am–6:30pm Mon–Sat; 1–
This is situated on a peninsula squares, alive with the bartering 6:30pm Sun (10am–2pm public hols).
that juts sharply into the sea, of fish and vegetables, and street Known as the Catedral Nueva
and consists of haphazardly vendors selling pink boiled (New Cathedral) because it was
heaped, Moorish-style houses. shrimps in paper cones. built over the site of an older
one, this Baroque and Neo-
Cádiz Cathedral The cupola was built between 1812 Classical church is one of Spain’s
and 1838 by Juan Daura, the last in a largest. Its dome of yellow tiles
long line of architects of this cathedral. looks like gilt glinting in the sun.
Baroque vaults The carved stalls inside came
from a Carthusian monastery. In
the crypt are the tombs of the
composer Manuel de Falla
Stalls (1876–1946) and writer José
Maria Pemán (1897–1981), both
natives of Cádiz. The cathedral’s
treasures are stored in a museum
in Plaza Fray Félix and include
jewel-studded monstrances
of silver and gold, and
notable paintings.
E Museo de Cádiz
Plaza de Mina s/n. Tel 856 10 50 23.
Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3pm
Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–mid-Jun:
9am–8pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm Sun.
Closed 1 Jan, 1 May, 25 Dec. 7
On the ground floor there are
archaeological exhibits charting
the history of Cádiz, including
statues of Roman emperors,
The presbytery such as Trajan, and Phoenician
altar was partly stone sarcophagi. Upstairs is
sponsored by one of Andalucía’s largest art
Isabel II (see
pp56–7). galleries, displaying works by
Rubens, Murillo and Zurbarán, as
Neo-Classical well as paintings by recognized
Neo-Classical façade contemporary Spanish artists.
towers On the third floor is a collection

C Á DIZ  169


of puppets made for village VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
fiestas around Andalucía.
There are also some more Practical Information
recent ones satirizing current Cádiz.
political figures. Road map B4. * 150,000.
n Avenida José León de
P Oratorio de San Carranza, s/n, at corner of
Felipe Neri Avenida de La Coruña (956 28 56
Calle Santa Inés s/n. Tel 956 80 70 18. 01). ( Mon. _ Los Carnavales
Open Tue–Sun; mass on Sun at 1pm (Feb), Semana Santa (Easter).
∑ cadizturismo.com
Sep–Jun and at noon Jul & Aug.
On 19 March 1812 a major event Transport
took place in this 18th-century £ Plaza de Sevilla s/n (902 24 05
Baroque church: the proclamation 05). @ Plaza de la Hispanidad
of a liberal constitution for Spain s/n (956 80 70 59).
(see p56). As Napoleon’s troops
besieged Cádiz during the obscura installed in Spain, but
Peninsular War, the members it is also worth visiting for the
of the provisional parliament The Baroque Torre Tavira, the highest simple pleasure of the views
assembled in the church to draft watchtower in Cádiz over the rooftops and the sea
a document that would inspire from its four balconies.
radicals throughout Europe. In its E Torre Tavira
limitations of the power of the Calle Marqués del Real Tesoro 10. Environs
monarch and its provisions for Tel 956 21 29 10. Open daily. At the northern lip of the Bay
citizens to enjoy unprecedented Closed 1 Jan & 25 Dec. & 8 of Cádiz is Rota, a town best
rights, the constitution was In the mid-1700s, when much known for its Spanish-US naval
ahead of its time and ultimately of Spain’s trade with the base but which also claims to
doomed to fail. No sooner had Americas passed through have the highest population
the French been driven out of the port of Cádiz, the city’s of chameleons in Spain. There
Spain in 1814 than it was merchants built themselves is a walled old town quarter
repealed by Fernando VII. watchtowers from which to and some very fine beaches.
observe the coming and The southern limit of the bay
going of vessels – either for is marked by the small island
commercial interest in the of Sancti Petri, believed by
cargoes or for their own archaeologists to be the site of a
amusement. More than 100 Temple of Hercules, built by the
such towers remain as part of Phoenicians in the 12th century
Cádiz’s skyline, but only this BC over the mythical burial site
one is open to the public. of the hero-turned-god.
Baroque in style, the tower Much of the bay lying
rises above what was once the between these two points
home of the Marqués de Ricaño forms the Bahia de Cádiz Nature
(now a music academy); it Reserve; a shifting population
stands in the centre of the Old of migratory wildfowl uses this
Town and is its highest point, area as a staging post between
reaching 45 m (150 ft) above the Straits of Gibraltar and the
Commemorative plaques on the Oratorio de sea level. Its penultimate floor Doñana National Park (see oñana National Park (see oñana National Park
D D
San Felipe Neri contains the first camera pp134–5).
Catamaran Crossing
Rather than drive up the isthmus into Cádiz,
you can travel by ferry across the bay from
El Puerto de Santa María (see p167) and to
and from Rota. A fast catamaran is part of the
public transportation system and provides a
regular service roughly every 30 minutes. The
catamaran takes 30 minutes to cross the
bay and is accessible for disabled travellers.
It is identified as the B-042 line and time-
tables for the service can be found on the
website (Tel: 902 45 05 50; www.catamaran
bahiacadiz.es/horarios.php).
A catamaran crossing the Bay of Cádiz

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

170  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

A90-Minute Walk Around Historic Cádiz

This walk begins at the Ayuntamiento (town hall) and takes in
3,000 years of Cádiz history, most of which is defined by the
surrounding sea. The route starts on the eastern flank at the
Bay of Cádiz. It heads into the heart of the city’s warren of
small alleys and squares via the stunning topiary gardens by
the university. You are rarely out of sight of the sea, passing
Cádiz’s fish market, its most famous fish restaurant, its beach
spa and the Atlantic seafront. The walk ends at the city’s
monumental cathedral, with its golden-coloured dome
overlooking the ocean.

one of many tiny neighbourhood
squares. Turn right into Isabel
La Catolica, which becomes
Calle Rafael de la Viesca and, 5 The Murallas de San Carlos,
via Doctor Zurita, enters the overlooking the Bay of Cádiz BALUARTE DE
CANDELARIA
Plaza de España. The militaristic
Monumento a las Cortes 4, 8
erected in 1912, has special
resonance for the people of BENDICIÓN DE DIOS VEA MURGUÍA
Cádiz, and Spain itself. In 1812,
Cádiz was home to a short- GRAVINA BARTOLOMÉ LLOMPART
PLAZA DE M.
ENRIQUE DE LAS MARINAS
lived alternative parliament AVENIDA CARLOS III MENTIDERO)
NÚÑEZ (DEL VEEDOR
to Madrid, but this attempt 9
to establish democratic Parque HÉRCULES CEBALLOS
A café-lined lane near the central Plaza rule was crushed by Genovés SANTA ROSALÍA PLAZA DE
CERVANTES
San Juan de Dios the monarchy. MANUEL VIUDAS
PLAZA
Across the BALUARTE 0 CALLE BENITO DE FALLA BENJUMEDA
DEL
Plaza San Juan de Dios to plaza, turn BONETE PÉREZ GALDÓS q TORRE
Parque Genovés left into CALLE SACRAMENTO
The pretty palm-lined Plaza Fernando ARIAS
CONCE PCIÓN
San Juan offers many cafés El Catolico, DOCTOR MARAÑÓN OBISPO CALVO Y VALERO
E E P P
OBISPO CALVO Y VALERO
OBISPO CALVO Y VALERO
and shops. The Neo-Classical which leads SAN RAFAEL C. DIEGO
Ayuntamiento 1, built in 1799, to the seafront
is chiefly the work of architect Murallas (walls) ROSA ROSA
Torcuato Benjumeda. Head de San Carlos 5,
north from the square, taking overlooking the Bay of Cádiz PLAZA DEL
TÍO DE
Calle Nueva 2, part of Cádiz’s and the town of Puerto de Playa de t LA TIZA CALLEJÓN
CARDOSO
busy shopping district. Nueva Santa María opposite, an la Caleta M. PINEDA PEÑALBA
runs into Calle San Francisco interesting destination in its AV. DUQUE DE NÁJERA SAN LEANDRO (DE LA PALMA) SAGASTA
up to Plaza de San Francisco 3, own right. At the Murallas,
follow Calle Honduras PERICÓN DE CÁDIZ
6 left, hugging Cádiz’s y C. VENEZUELA
sea walls. You pass the CAMPO DEL SUR
Alameda Apodaca 7,
one of numerous
gardens boasting vast
dragon trees, and the Tips for Walkers
Baluarte (battlement) Starting point: Plaza San
de la Candelaria 8, Juan de Dios.
now a contemporary Length: 4 km (3 miles)
arts centre. Turn left Getting there: Plaza San Juan
again into Avenida de Dios is next to the port and
Carlos III, passing the a few minutes’ walk from rail and
Universidad and the bus stations.
lovely Parque Genovés Stopping-off points: The family-
owned Bar Terraza on the Plaza
9, with its avenue of de la Catedral s/n has outdoor
symmetrical topiary seating with a fantastic view of
trees, open-air theatre the cathedral.
9 Taking a stroll in leafy Parque Genovés and café.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

A GUIDED W ALK  171


Parador to Playa de la Caleta into Plaza Topete and the
At the end of the gardens is city’s bustling market, with
Cádiz’s modern parador hotel stalls preparing delicious fresh
0. From here, visitors can head seafood snacks.
into the heart of the Old Town. Cross the square to Calle
Turn left into Calle Benito Perez Libertad and into Desamparados,
Galdos, passing Plaza de Falla then turn right into the leafy
and the gaudy, pink Gran Teatro Plaza de la Cruz Verde r, which,
Falla q, both named after via Calle Maria Arteaga, joins
famous local composer Manuel Calle Rosa to reach the city’s
de Falla, interred in the cathedral. most famous beach, Playa de la
The Neo-Mudéjar theatre was Caleta, its 19th-century bathing
finished in 1919, after 30 years’ station t (now government
construction, and is busiest offices) and a nautical college.
during Cádiz’s wild February The beach overlooks the old
Carnival (see p43). Calle Galdos i One of the bell towers of the Catedral harbour and two small forts,
changes name here to Calle de Santa Cruz overlooking the city one of which, San Sebastián,
was once the 1100 BC Phoenician
settlement of Gadir and site of
CALLE HONDURAS 5 PLAZA DE a temple to Kronos.
FILIPINAS
7
7 Alameda ARGÜELLES 6 F. CATÓLICO PLAZA DE Caleta to Catedral
7
PLAZA DE
From Caleta, Calle de Nájera
LASTRES
ISAB BE EL LA CATÓLICA
CARABELAS
Apodaca PLAZA DE LA joins the Campo del Sur
HISPANIDAD
seafront, but it is worth turning
BUENOS AIRES PLAZA ANTONIO LÓPEZ PLAZA DE REST CARABELAS left into Calle Venezuela into
CALDERÓN DE LA BARCA
CALDERÓN DE LA BARCA
ESPAÑA
4
the fishermen’s quarter and
ANTONIO LÓPEZ
ANTONIO LÓPEZ
ANTONIO LÓPEZ
ANTONIO LÓPEZ
PLAZA DE MINA DOCTOR ZURITA down to San Felix and the
DE SAN 3 CALLE RAFAEL DE
ANTONIO LA VIESCA most famous fish restaurant
PLAZA
DE SAN
FRANCISCO CALLE in the region, El Faro (open:
1pm) y. Both the restaurant
SAN JOSÉ ANCHA SAN and the tapas bar here live up
SAGASTA ROSARIO FRANCISCO to the local saying, “Don’t leave
AVDA. RAMÓN DE
w ZAPATA CARRANZA AVDA. DEL PUERTO Cádiz before eating at El Faro.”
Take Felix up to the seafront
e COLUMELA VARGAS PONCE 2 and turn left into Campo del
PLAZA DE
CANDELARIA Sur u, where lovely pastel-
PLAZA DE C. NUEVA colour buildings stretch to
HOSPITAL DE
TOPETE COBOS FLAME NCO PLAZA DE the magnificent Cádiz Catedral
MUJERES
(DE LAS
LIBERTAD FLORES) SAN JUAN 1 SEVILLA Station i, begun in 1722 and
Train
PLAZA
r OBISPO URQUINAONA PELOTA DE DIOS finished only in 1838.
PLAZA DE SOPRANIS CUESTA DE LAS CALESAS Several architects
LA CRUZ PLAZA DE LA
VERDE SAN JUAN CATEDRAL SAN JUAN DE DIOS contributed to its
i wonderful mix of
u
CAMPO DEL SUR CAMPO DEL SUR HIGUERA Neo-Classical styles. The
Baroque, Rococo and
Key CONCEPCIÓN ARENAL MIRADOR views from its bell towers
repay the climb. Calle Pelota,
Walk route opposite, leads back to Plaza
San Juan de Dios.
0 metres 300
0 yards 300
Sacramento, the busiest of
the shopping streets, and you
pass the Oratorio de San Felipe
Neri w and the unusual 18th-
century Torre Tavira e, named
after its first keeper, Antonio
Tavira. At 45 m (150 ft) above
sea level, this lookout and
camera obscura is the highest
viewpoint in the city. At Calle
Alcala Sacramento, turn right e Cádiz cathedral seen from Torre Tavira
For keys to map symbols see back flap

172  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


stand and cobbled alleys nestle outside the walls include the
beneath them. Palacio del Marqués de
The Iglesia de Santa María la Tamaron, which is a 17th-
Coronada is the town’s most to 18th-century stately home.
impressive building. Begun on
the foundations of a castle in
the 15th century, after the
Reconquest, it is a fine example
of Andalucían Gothic. Inside is a
collection of religious works of
art dating from the Renaissance,
including paintings and a
charming retablo with beautifully
carved panels.
7Vejer de
la Frontera
Carved retablo, Iglesia de Santa María la Cádiz. Road map B4. * 13,000.
Coronada, Medina Sidonia n Avenida Los Remedios 2, Parque
6Medina Sidonia Municipal Los Remedios (956 45 17
36). ∑ vejerdelafrontera.co.uk
Cádiz. Road map B4. * 11,500. @
n Plaza Iglesia Mayor s/n (956 41 24 Attractively located on a hilltop
04). ( Mon. above Barbate, Vejer de la
Frontera was one of the first
As you drive along the N440, places occupied by the Muslim The lighthouse on Cabo de Trafalgar, near
between Algeciras and Jerez, invaders in 711, shortly after Barbate on Costa de la Luz
Medina Sidonia appears they had defeated the Visigoths
startlingly white atop a conical in battle close by (the exact site 8Barbate
hill. The town was taken from is not known). Cádiz. Road map B4. * 22,000.
the Moors in 1264 by Alfonso X, The oldest part of town is n Paseo Marítimo 5 (956 06 36 13).
and during the 15th century the enclosed by an irregular wall ∑ barbate.es
Guzmán family were established that is protected by three
as the Dukes of Medina Sidonia towers and entered by four The largest coastal settlement
to defend the territory between gates. Within the walled area between Cádiz and Tarifa,
here and the Bay of Cádiz. After are the Arab castle and the Barbate stands at the mouth of
the Reconquest (see pp52–3), parish church, the Iglesia the eponymous river, in an area
the family grew rich from Parroquial del Divino Salvador, of marshes and saltflats. There
investments in the Americas, which was built on the site of is not much of interest in the
and Medina Sidonia became a mosque between the 14th town itself, but two small tourist
one of the most important and 16th centuries, in a mixture resorts attached to it are
ducal seats in Spain. Many parts of Gothic and Mudejar worth visiting.
of the town’s medieval walls still architecture. Later buildings A short way south down the
coast is Zahara de los
Atunes, which has grown
up along one of the
coast’s best beaches.
The epithet of “the tuna
fish” is a reminder of an
important industry in
these waters. Barbate’s
culinary speciality is
mojama, tuna that has
been cured in the same
way as jamón serrano.
Inland from Zahara,
around the main N340
coast road, are large
swathes of wind
turbines generating
electricity for the
national grid. The road
The fortified walls surrounding the Old Town of Vejer de la Frontera north out of Barbate
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  173


Windfarms
North of Tarifa, the wind blows with
such reliable force that it is used to
drive wind turbines to generate
electricity. Spain has the world’s
second-highest installed capacity of
windpower after Germany, and the
country aims to meet 20 per cent
of its energy needs from renewable
resources by 2020. Critics argue that
windpower works only when the
wind is strong enough and that
the turbines are unsightly. Another
objection, that the blades of the
turbines are a hazard to birds, hasn’t
The characteristic turbines of a windfarm north of Tarifa been substantiated by evidence.

(past the fishing port) climbs in importance through trade qParque Natural
over a headland fringed by with North Africa and its fish de Los Alcornocales
cliffs and planted with dense salting and pickling works.
pine woods to drop down Emperor Claudius Cádiz and Málaga. Road map B4.
to the small holiday resort (41–54 AD) elevated Baelo n Carretera Ctra C–2112 km 1, Alcalá
of Los Caños de Meca, Claudia to the status de los Gazules – Benalup Casas Viejas
(956 41 86 14); Parque Natural de los
which began as a hippy of municipality, but its Alcornocales (856 58 75 08).
hideaway in the 1970s prestige was short-lived,
and still has a carefree since it was effectively This nature reserve is named
feel to it. destroyed by an after the alcornocales, cork oak
On a short sand earthquake in the trees that are prevalent in many
spit nearby stands a 2nd century and finally parts of it. They are easily
lighthouse marking the abandoned in the 6th identified because they have
Cabo de Trafalgar (Cape century. The ruins, which been stripped of their lower
Trafalgar), which gave include a theatre, a bark, leaving the vivid red
its name to the naval necropolis and several heartwood showing. The far
battle fought on 21 erect columns, are in south of the natural park is
October 1805. Early in Statue of Trajan at a picturesque spot crossed by deep valleys called
the morning of that Baelo Claudia next to a beautiful canutos, in which rare vestiges
day, Britain’s Admiral beach beside the of Europe’s ancient fern-rich
Nelson decided to take on small settlement of Bolonia. forests cling on.
the combined fleet of Spanish Apart from its wildlife, the
and French ships that had left area has a few towns worth
Cádiz two days earlier. The 0Tarifa visiting, including Jimena de la
British were outnumbered and Cádiz. Road map B4. * 16,000. @ Frontera, Castellar de la Frontera
outgunned but defeated the n Paseo de la Alameda s/n (956 68 and Medina Sidonia (see p172),
enemy without the loss of a 09 93). ( Tue. ∑ tarifaweb.com and several caves holding
single ship. Nelson, however, prehistoric paintings.
was struck by a musket ball late Europe’s wind- and kitesurfing
in the battle and died soon after. capital (see p36) takes its name
from Tarif ben Maluk, an 8th-
century Moorish commander.
9Baelo Claudia The 10th-century Castillo de
Guzmán el Bueno is the site of
Bolonia, Cádiz. Road map B4. Tel 956 a legend. In 1292, Guzmán, who
10 67 97. Open Apr–mid-Jun: 9am–
7:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–2:30pm Sun & was defending Tarifa from the
hols; mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–2:30pm Moors, was told his hostage
Tue–Sun & hols; mid-Sep–Mar: 9am– son would die if he did not
5:30pm Tue–Sat, 9am–2:30pm Sun & surrender. Rather than give in,
hols. & (free to EU citizens). ∑ junta he threw down his dagger for
deandalucia.es/cultura/museos the captors to use.
The Roman settlement of + Castillo de Guzmán el Bueno
Baelo Claudia was established Calle Guzmán el Bueno. Tel 956 68 46
on the seashore in the 2nd 89. Open Winter: Tue–Sun; summer: Cork trees in the Parque Natural de
century BC and gradually grew daily. & Los Alcornocales

174  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

wGibraltar

Native Gibraltarians are descendents of British, Genoese
Jews, Portuguese and Spanish who remained after the Great
Siege (see p56). Britain seized Gibraltar during the War of the
Spanish Succession in 1704, and was granted it “in perpetuity”
by the Treaty of Utrecht (see p56) nine years later. As the
gateway to the Mediterranean, the Rock was essential to
Britain in colonial times. Tensions over Gibraltar have now
eased, with more co-operation between Spain and Britain
expected in the future. Each year, around 4 million people
stream across the frontier at La Línea to visit this speck of The Keep
England bolted on to Andalucía. Pubs, fish and chips, pounds The lower part of this Moorish
sterling and bobbies on the beat all contrast with Spain. castle, built in the 8th century, is
still used to house Gibraltar’s
prison population.










Siege Tunnels
Soldiers’ barracks and storerooms
fill 50 km (31 miles) of tunnels.


















KEY
1 The airport runway currently the Strait of Gibraltar to
crosses over the main road from North Africa.
La Línea to Gibraltar.
5 The 100-Ton Gun was put
2 Spanish border here in 1884; it took two hours
and customs to load and it could fire shells
3 The Apes’ Den is home to weighing 910 kg (2,000 lb).
Gibraltar’s tailless apes; legend 6 A cable car runs from
has it that the British will keep the centre of the town to the
the Rock only as long as the Top of the Rock, Gibraltar’s
apes remain. summit, which, at 450 m
4 Europa Point, on the (1,475 ft) high, is often
southernmost tip, looks across shrouded in mist.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  175


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
United Kingdom.
Road map C4. * 35,000.
n Cathedral Square, Duke
of Kent House (200 74 950).
( Wed, Sat. _ National Day
(10 Sep). Gibraltar Museum
Open Mon–Fri. Closed public
hols. & The Keep, St Michael’s
St Michael’s Cave Cave, Apes’ Den Open daily. La Línea de la Concepción, with Gibraltar
During World War II these caves Siege Tunnels Open Mon–Fri. in the distance
served as a bombproof military Closed 1 Jan, 25 Dec. & 7
hospital. These days classical Currency: Gibraltar pound, pound eLa Línea de la
concerts are performed here.
sterling. Visas: not required for Concepción
citizens of the EU, US, Canada or
Australia. ∑ visitgibraltar.gi Cádiz. Road map C4. * 60,000.
@ n Avenida de 20 Abril s/n
Transport
k Gibraltar. (956 78 41 35). ( Wed.
@ Waterport coach park.
La Línea is a town on the Spanish
side of the border with Gibraltar.
Its name, “The Line”, refers to the
old walls that once formed the
frontier, but were demolished
during the Napoleonic wars to
prevent the French using them
for defence. Now it is a lively
trading town, with several hotels
patronized by people who want
to avoid the higher prices of
Gibraltar hotels.












The elegant marina at Sotogrande
rSotogrande
Cádiz. Road map C4. * 2,000.
@ San Roque. n Palacio de los
Gobernadores, Calle Rubín de Celis s/n
(956 69 40 05). ( Sun.
Just above Gibraltar, on the
Costa del Sol, Sotogrande is
an exclusive residential seaside
town, popular with wealthy
Gibraltarians, who commute to
the Rock. The marina is filled with
expensive yachts and lined with
Gibraltar Museum excellent seafood restaurants.
This museum, built on the foundations of Moorish Nearby there are several
baths, houses an exhibition of Gibraltar’s history immaculately manicured golf
under British rule. courses (see p36).

176  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


tA Tour Around the Pueblos Blancos

Instead of settling on Andalucía’s plains, where they
would have fallen prey to bandits, some Andalucíans
chose to live in fortified hilltop towns and villages.
The way of life in these pueblos blancos – so called
because they are whitewashed in the Moorish
tradition – has barely changed for centuries. Touring
the pueblos blancos, which crown the mountains
rising sharply from the coast, will show visitors a 3 Zahara de la Sierra This fine pueblo
world full of references to the past. Yet today they blanco, a tightly huddled hillside village
below a castle ruin, has been declared a
are working agricultural towns, national monument.
not just tourist sights.
4 Grazalema At the heart
of the Parque Natural de la
Sierra de Grazalema, this Embalse
de Zahara
2 Ubrique village has the highest
This town, nestling at rainfall in Spain. Lush
the foot of the Sierra de vegetation fills the park.
Ubrique, has become a
flourishing producer of
leather goods.
Sevilla
El Bosque Benamahoma
C
Cádiz, ádiz,
Jerez
Benaocaz
Embalse de los
Hurones
Parque Natural
1 Arcos de Charco de Sierra de
la Frontera los Hurones Sierra de Grazalema
This strategically Ubrique
positioned town has Cortes de la
been fortified for Frontera
centuries. From the
commanding heights of
this stronghold, there are fine
views over the Guadalete valley.
8 Jimena de la Frontera Río Hozgarganta
Parque Natural de
ío
í
An expanse of cork and olive trees los Alcornocales-
blankets the hills leading up to this Sierra del Aljibe
village. A ruined Moorish castle,
which is open to visitors, overlooks Río Guadiaro
ío
the surroundings where wild bulls La Sauceda í
graze peacefully.



7 Gaucín
From here there are
unsurpassed vistas over the
Mediterranean, the Atlantic,
the great hump of Gibraltar 0 km 10
and across the strait to the Rif
mountains of North Africa. 0 miles 05

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  177

yArcos de la
Frontera
Cádiz. Road map B3. * 30,000.
@ n Calle Cuesta de Belén 5 (956
70 22 64). ( Fri.
Arcos has been inhabited since
prehistoric times. Its strategic
position encouraged settlement,
first as the Roman town of
5 Setenil
The streets of this white town Arcobriga, and later as the
are formed from the ledge of a stronghold of Medina Arkosh
gorge, carved from tufa rock by under the Caliphate of Córdoba
the river Trejo. (see p50). It was captured by
Alfonso X’s (see p52) Christian Roman theatre set amid the ruins
forces in 1264. of Acinipo (Ronda la Vieja)
An archetypal white town,
it has a labyrinthine Moorish uRonda la Vieja
Ronda
la Vieja quarter that twists up to its Málaga. Road map C3. £ @ Ronda.
ruined castle. At its centre is Tel 952 21 36 40 & 630 42 99 49.
the Plaza de España, one side n Avenida de Blas Infante, s/n (952
of which gives views across 18 71 19). Open times vary – check
sunbaked plains. Fronting the ∑ facebook.com/acinipoenclave
square is the superb Iglesia de arqueologico. Cuevas de la Pileta: by
Santa María de la Asunción, a guided tour (twice daily).
late Gothic-Mudéjar building ∑ turismoderonda.es
worth seeing for its extravagant
Baroque choir stalls and Ronda la Vieja is the modern
Renaissance altarpiece. A small name for the remains of the
museum displays the church Roman city of Acinipo, 12 km
La Cueva
de la Pileta treasures. More striking is the (7 miles) northwest of Ronda
massive 14th-century Gothic (see pp178–9). An important
Parroquia de San Pedro. Its town in the 1st century AD, it
thick-set tower provides a view later declined, unlike the growing
6 Ronda over the sheer drop down to town of Ronda, which was
With the Tajo the Guadalete river. Nearby is called Arunda by the Romans.
gorge as an efficient the Palacio del Mayorazgo The ruins are sited on a hillside
moat, Ronda was one of with an ornate Renaissance where only a fraction of the
the last towns recaptured façade. The Ayuntamiento is town has been excavated. The
from the Moors. It later also worth seeing, particularly town’s most significant sight is
became the cradle of to view its beautiful the theatre, but lines of stones
modern bullfighting Mudéjar ceiling. also mark foundations
(see pp178–9).
of houses, and of the
P Palacio del Mayorazgo forum and other
Key
Calle San Pedro 2. Tel 956 70 public buildings.
Tour route 30 13 (Casa de Cultura). Along the C339,
Other roads Open 10am–2pm 22 km (12 miles) from
Mon–Fri. 7 Ronda la Vieja, are
Tips for Drivers P Ayuntamiento the Cuevas de la
Plaza del Cabíldo 1. Pileta, the site of pre-
Tour length: 205 km (135 miles). Tel 956 70 49 50. historic cave paintings
Stopping-off points: Ronda Open Mon–Fri. dating from about
has a wide range of hotels and Closed public hols. 25,000 BC (see p47).
restaurants. Arcos de la Frontera
has a parador (see p218), other
hotels and restaurants. Gaucín,
Jimena de la Frontera and Zahara
de la Sierra also have places to stay
and eat. Grazalema has a resort
for families and Setenil a couple
of bars and a hotel. Ubrique has
two hotels and several B&Bs.
The Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

178  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

i Street-by-Street: Ronda

One of the most spectacularly located cities in Spain,
Ronda sits on a massive rocky outcrop, straddling a
precipitous limestone cleft. Because of its impregnable
position this town was one of the last Moorish bastions,
finally falling to the Christians in 1485. On the south side
perches a classic Moorish pueblo blanco (see p176) of
cobbled alleys, window grilles and dazzling whitewash – . Puente Nuevo
most historic sights are in this old town. Across the Building the “New Bridge” over the nearly
gorge in El Mercadillo, the newer town, is one of Spain’s 100 m (330 ft) deep Tajo gorge was a feat of
civil engineering in the late 18th century.ineering in the late 18th century.
oldest bullrings. civil eng
Convento de Santo
To El Mercadillo, Plaza de Domingo was the local
Toros and Parador de headquarters of the
Ronda (see p219) Inquisition.
D O M I N G O
S A N T O S A N









Casa del Rey Moro C A L L E A R M I Ñ Á N N I O A N T O
From this 18th-century mansion,
built on the foundations of a T E N O R I O
Moorish palace, 365 steps lead
down to the river.

Key 0 metres 75
Suggested route 0 yards 75









Mirador El C A M P I L L O
Campillo
P L A Z A D E L







. Palacio Mondragón
Much of this palace was rebuilt after
the Reconquest (see pp52–3), but its
arcaded patio is adorned with original
Moorish mosaics and plasterwork.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  179

Palacio del Marqués de Salvatierra
Bizarre images of biblical scenes and South VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
American Indians embellish the façade of this
palace, built in Renaissance style in the 18th century. Practical Information
Málaga. Road map C3.
* 34,000. n Paseo de Blas
Infante, s/n (95 218 71 19).
( Sun. _ Fiesta Romeria
Virgen de la Cabeza (May), Feria
de Málaga (Aug), Feria de Pedro
Romero (Sep).Casa del Rey Moro:
Open gardens only. & Palacio
del Marqués de Salvatierra:
Closed to the public. Palacio
Mondragón: Open Mon–Fri.
& 7 Plaza de Toros and Museo
Taurino: Open daily. & 7
Baños Arabes: Open daily.
To Puente Viejo, ∑ turismoderonda.es
Baños Arabes
Transport
£ Avda Andalucía s/n (902 43
Santa María la Mayor 23 43). @ Pl Concepción García
A minaret and a Muslim prayer Redondo s/n (952 87 22 60).
niche survive from the
13th-century mosque that once
stood on the site of this church.
M A R Q U É S
Minarete San Sebastián
D E
is all that remains of a
14th-century mosque.

S A L V AT I E R R A
C A R M E N The town hall was remodelled in the
Ayuntamiento
20th century and incorporates parts of
older buildings. It has a two-tier
arcaded façade and Mudéjar ceiling.
A
E S C A L E R A
Bullfighting at Ronda
Ronda’s Plaza de Toros is the spiritual home of bull-
fighting. Inaugurated in 1785, it is one of the oldest,
most important bullrings in Spain. Aficionados travel
from all over the country for the singular atmosphere
A R M I Ñ Á N
of the Corrida Goyesca (see p40); millions watch the
spectacle on television. It is the dream of every
aspiring matador to fight at Ronda. The classic
Ronda style (more severe than the
exuberant School of Seville)
was developed by Pedro
P LAZ A Romero. Born in 1754, he is
DUQUESA known as the father of
DE PARCENT modern bullfighting
(see also pp30–31).




Romero, who killed
over 6,000 bulls

180  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

oParque Natural white town (pueblo blanco, see
Sierra de las Nieves pp176–7), perched on a hillside
overlooking wheat fields, citrus
Málaga Road map C3. nCalle orchards and olive groves.
Jacaranda 1, Cortes de la Frontera The town’s cobbled streets
(952 15 45 99).
radiate from the 18th-century
Iglesia de la Encarnación. At
One of Andalucía’s least the weekly market, stalls of farm
accessible areas, this UNESCO produce and clothing fill nearby
biosphere reserve southeast of streets. On the higher of Álora’s
Ronda extends between Parauta twin hills stands the Castillo,
(to the east), Tolox (west), El with a cemetery of niche tombs
Burgo (north) and Istán (south). set in neat blocks.
Interestingly, it features both
extreme highs and lows, + Castillo Árabe
reaching up to the peak of Calle Ancha. Tel 952 49 55 77
Torrecilla (1,919 m/ 6,295 ft) (tourist office). Open daily.
and down to one of the world’s
deepest potholes, GESM, which Olive groves between the villages of Álora aGarganta del
is 1,100 m (3,608 ft) deep. The and Antequera
sierra is popular for caving and Chorro
rock climbing, and it also has pÁlora Málaga. Road map C3. £ El Chorro.
some moderate to difficult Málaga. Road map C3. * 13,000. £ @ Parque Ardales. n Plaza Fuente
signposted walking trails. @ n Plaza Fuente de Arriba 15 (952 de Arriba 15 (952 49 61 00).
A short way south, near Ojén, 49 61 00). ( Mon. ∑ alora.es
is the beautiful Refugio de Up the fertile Guadalhorce
Juanar, which offers walks Situated in the Guadalhorce valley, 12 km (7 miles) on from
through mixed woodland to a river valley, Álora is an important Álora, is one of the geographical
viewpoint overlooking the coast. agricultural centre. It is a classic wonders of Spain. The Garganta
del Chorro is an immense
gaping chasm 180 m (590 ft)
high, slashing through a
limestone mountain. In some
places, where the Guadalhorce
river hurtles through the gorge,
waters foaming white, it is only
10 m (30 ft) wide. Visitors can
access the Caminito del Rey
walkway, which is attached to
the walls of the gorge over
100 m (330 ft) above the river.
A limited number of hikers is
allowed at any one time, so
reservations are essential.
} Caminito del Rey
Open Tue–Sun. ∑ caminodelrey.info
sFuente de Piedra
Málaga. Road map C3. £ @ n
Calle Cerro del Palo s/n (952 71 25 54).
The largest of several lakes in
an expanse of wetlands north
of Antequera, the Laguna de la
Fuente de Piedra teems with
bird life, including huge flocks of
flamingos. In March, every year,
up to 25,000 of them arrive to
breed before migrating back
to West Africa. However, if there
is drought in the region, there
The Garganta del Chorro, rising high above the Guadalhorce river will be fewer birds breeding.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  181


Apart from flamingos, you
will also be able to admire
cranes, herons, bee-eaters,
snow-white egrets, as well
as many species of ducks and
geese. Their numbers have
been on the increase since
conservation and anti-hunting
laws were introduced and the
area declared a sanctuary. A
road off the N334 leads to the
lake side, from where visitors
can watch the birds. Be advised
that restraint is required: it is
forbidden to join the waders in
the lake. Information is available Limestone formations in the Parque Natural del Torcal
from a visitors’ centre near the
village of Fuente de Piedra. Torre del Papabellotas. In the centre in the middle; short walks
town below, the 18th-century (up to two hours) are marked by
Palacio de Nájera is the setting yellow arrows; longer walks are
for the Municipal Museum, marked in red. There are caves,
whose star exhibit is a 2,000-year- canyons, mushroom-shaped
old statue of a Roman boy. rocks and other geological
On the outskirts of town are curiosities to see. The park also
three large prehistoric dolmens boasts fox and weasel popula-
that may have been the burial tions, and colonies of eagles,
chambers of tribal leaders. Two of hawks and vultures. It also
them – Viera and Menga – stand protects rare plants and flowers.
together, the latter the oldest and
most impressive of all, dated at
between 4,000 and 4,500 years gArchidona
old. A short distance away is Málaga. Road map D3. * 8,200. £
the Dolmen de Romeral, which @ n Plaza Ochavada 2 (952 71 44
has a vaulted central chamber. 80). ( Mon.
P Plaza de Toros This small town is worth a
The triumphal 16th-century Arco de los Crta de Sevilla. Tel 952 70 81 42. stop to see its extraordinary
Gigantes, Antequera Open Tue–Sun. Museo Taurino: Plaza Ochavada. This is an
Open Tue–Sun. octagonal square built in the
dAntequera E Palacio de Nájera 18th century in a French style,
Coso Viejo. Tel 952 70 83 00. Open but which also incorporates
Málaga. Road map D3. * 42,000. £
@ Plaza San Sebastián 7 (952 70 25 10am–2pm, 4:30–6:30pm Tue–Sat, traditional Andalucían features.
05). ∑ antequera.co.uk 10am–2pm Sun. & ( Tue. From the Ermita Virgen de
T Dolmens: Gracia on a hillside above the
This busy market town has long Tel 952 71 22 06. Open Apr–mid-Jun: town, there are commanding
been strategically important; first 9am–7:30pm Tue–Sat; mid-Jun–mid- views over rolling countryside.
as Roman Anticaria, and later as Sep: 9am–3:30pm Tue–Sat; mid-Sep–
a Moorish border fortress Mar: 9am–5:30pm Tue–Sat; all year:
defending Granada. 9am–3:30pm Sun & public hols. &
The Iglesia de Nuestra Señora
del Carmen, with its massive
Baroque altarpiece, is not to be
missed. To the west of here, at fEl Torcal
the opposite end of the town, is Málaga. Road map D3. £ @ Ante-
the 19th-century Plaza de Toros, quera. n Ctra C3310, 10 km (6 miles)
with its museum of bullfighting. south of Antequera (952 24 33 24).
High on a hill overlooking
the town is the Castillo Arabe, A huge exposed hump of
a 13th-century Moorish castle. limestone upland battered into
Visitors cannot go inside, but can bizarre formations by wind and
walk round the castle walls – the rain, the Parque Natural del
approach is through the 16th- Torcal is very popular with hikers.
century Arco de los Gigantes. Most follow a network of foot- The 18th-century, octagonal Plaza
There are fine views from the paths leading from a visitors’ Ochavada in Archidona

182  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA


hNerja
Málaga. Road map D3. * 18,000. @
n Calle Carmen 1 (ground floor of
Ayuntamiento) (952 52 15 31). ( Tue.
∑ nerja.org
This fashionable resort at the
eastern extremity of the Costa
del Sol lies at the foot of the
beautiful mountains of the Sierra
de Almijara, and is perched on a
cliff above a succession of sandy
coves. The main area for tourist
activity in the resort centres
around the promenade, running The town of Nerja overlooking the sea from El Balcón de Europa
along a rocky promontory known
as El Balcón de Europa (the caverns of considerable turned into an impressive
Balcony of Europe). Spread along archaeological interest, which underground auditorium large
its length is a hotel and cafés were discovered in 1959. Wall enough to hold audiences of
with outdoor tables. There are paintings (see p46) found in several hundred. Concerts are
sweeping views up and down them are believed to be about held there in the summer.
the coast. On the edges of 20,000 years old. Unfortunately
town, holiday villas and most are closed to public view, T Cuevas de Nerja
apartments proliferate. but a few of the many cathedral- Carretera de las Cuevas de Nerja.
Due east of the town are the sized chambers are open to the Tel 952 52 95 20. Open daily. Closed
Cuevas de Nerja, a series of vast public. One of these has been 1 Jan, 15 May. & ∑ cuevadenerja.es


lMálaga The old town at the heart has a fascinating collection of
of Málaga radiates from the over 90 cars through the ages.
Málaga. Road map D3. * 650,000. catedral. It was begun in 1528 The Museo de Picasso displays
k £ @ n Plaza de la Marina 11 by Diego de Siloé, but it is a mix works by the native artist and
(951 92 60 20). ( Sun. of styles. Its construction the Casa Natal de Picasso, where
∑ malagaturismo.com
was interrupted by an the painter spent his early years,
A thriving port, Málaga is earthquake in 1680. The is now the headquarters of the
Andalucía’s second largest half-built second tower, Picasso Foundation. On the hill
city. Initial impressions abandoned in 1765, is the directly behind the Alcazaba
tend to be of ugly suburbs reason for its nickname: are the ruins of the
and high-rise blocks, but La Manquita (the one- 14th-century Moorish
this belies a city that is Façade detail, Málaga armed one). Málaga’s Castillo de Gibralfaro.
rich with history, and is Cathedral Museo Carmen
filled with monuments. Thyssen has Amphitheatre
Malaca, the Phoenician (see a fine collection of 13th–20th
pp46–7) city, was an important century Spanish art while the
trading port on the Iberian Centre Pompidou has an
peninsula. After Rome’s victory impressive collection of 20th
against Carthage in 206 BC (see and 21st-century art-
p48), it became a major port for works. The Museo
Roman trade with Byzantium. Automovilístico
Málaga’s heyday came after 711, y de la Moda
when it fell to the Moors and
became their main port serving
Granada. It was recaptured by the
Christians in 1487. The Moors
left behind were expelled (see
pp54–5) after a rebellion.
Following a long decline, the
city flourished again during the
19th century, when Málaga wine
became one of Europe’s popular Entrance
drinks. Unfortunately, phylloxera,
the vine disease that ravaged the Puerta de las uerta de las
P
vineyards of Europe, ended the Puerta
prosperity of its vineyards. Columnas Principal Plaza de Armas
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  183


jThe Axarquia the coast and easily accessible kMontes de
from Nerja; and Comares (north Málaga
Málaga. Road map D3. n Avenida
de la Constitución 1 (952 55 36 85). east of Vélez-Málaga), perched Málaga. Road map D3. @ to
∑ competa.es on top of an impressive outcrop Colmenar. n Lagar de Torrijos, on
of rock from which there are
The hills behind Torre del Mar superb views. C345 at km 544,3 (951 04 21 00).
and Nerja make up the pretty
upland region of the Axarquia, To the north and east of Málaga
whose main town, Vélez- are the beautiful hills of Montes
Málaga, has a few old streets de Málaga. A wide area is
and the remains of a castle undergoing reforestation and
to explore. forms the Parque Natural de
A better base for excursions Montes de Málaga. Wildlife
is the attractive sweet wine- thrives in the strongly scented
producing town of Cómpeta, undergrowth of lavender and
20 km (12 miles) from the coast wild herbs. Occasionally, there are
by winding mountain roads. glimpses of wild cats, stone
From here, there is an interesting martens, wild boars, eagles and
“Mudejar route” down the hill other birds of prey.
and up the valley to Archez and Walkers can follow marked
Salares, villages whose church trails. A farmhouse has been
towers are undisguised brick restored and converted into an
minarets dating from the 15th ethnological museum. Along the
and 13th centuries respectively. C345 road between Málaga and
Two other villages worth Narrow street in the Barrio de San the park, there are sensational
visiting are Frigiliana, close to Sebastián, Vélez-Málaga views down to the sea.


The Torre del Homenaje was Eastwards, on the road to Vélez
Cuartos de built during the reign of Abd Málaga, is the unspoilt beach of
Granada Baño al Rahman I (756–88). Rincón de la Victoria (see p37).
E Museo Carmen Thyssen
Plaza Carmen Thyssen. Tel 952 21 75
11. Open 10am–8pm Tue–Sun.
E Centre Pompidou Malaga
Pasaje Doctor Carillo Casaux, s/n
Muelle Uno. Tel 951 92 62 00.
Open 9:30am–8pm Wed–Mon
(11am–10pm 15 Jun–15 Sep). &
E Museo Automovilístico
y de la Moda
Avenida Sor Teresa Prat 15. Tel 951 13
70 01. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun. &
E Museo de Picasso
Calle San Agustín 8. Tel 952 12 76 00.
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed
1 & 6 Jan, 25 Dec. &
E Casa Natal de Picasso
Plaza de la Merced 15. Tel 951 92 60
60. Open 9:30am–8pm daily. Closed
public hols.
Aljibe Barrio de Casas
+ Castillo de Gibralfaro
Tel 952 12 20 20. Open 9am–6pm
The Museo Arqueológico daily (to 8pm summer). &
Sala de Siglo XVI has a Moorish-style ceiling,
constructed in the 1920s. + Alcazaba
Málaga’s Alcazaba Calle Alcazabilla s/n. Tel 952 22 72 30.
Open 9am–6pm daily. Closed 1 Jan,
Málaga’s vast Alcazaba was built between the 8th and 11th 24, 25 & 31 Dec.
centuries on the site of a Roman town. The two are curiously E Museo Arqueológico
juxtaposed, with the Roman amphitheatre, discovered in 1951 Calle Alcazabilla. Tel 951 91 19 04.
and now almost fully excavated, just outside the entrance. The Open mid-Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3pm
remains of Moorish walls can be seen, but the real attraction is Tue–Sun; mid-Sep–mid-Jun: 9am–
the Museo Arqueológico, housing collections of Phoenician, 8pm Tue–Sat, 9am–3pm Sun. &
Roman and Moorish artifacts, including fine ceramics. ∑ museosdeandalucia.es

184  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

cFuengirola
Málaga. Road map C4. * 53,000.
£ @ n Avda Jesús Santos Rein 6
(952 46 74 57). ( Tue, Sat & Sun.
∑ fuengirola.org
The town of Fuengirola is another
package-holiday resort, although
some of the wilder elements of
its mostly British clientele have
moved on to newer pastures.
Nowadays Fuengirola attracts
mainly families.
During the mild winter
Torremolinos, the capital of the Costa del Sol’s tourist industry months, retired people from
the UK come to stroll along the
zTorremolinos xBenalmádena promenade, go to English bars
and waltz the afternoons away
Málaga. Road map D3. * 50,000. Málaga. Road map D4. * 66,000. £
£ @ n Plaza de Andalucía s/n @ n Antonio Machado (952 44 24 94). at hotel tea dances.
(952 37 95 12). ( Thu.
∑ ayto-torremolinos.org Benalmádena hosts an array
of great attractions, including
Torremolinos grew from a the impressive Castillo de
village in the 1950s to one of Colomares built between
the busiest resorts on the Costa 1987 and 1994 as homage
del Sol, where British and, to a to Christopher Columbus. The
lesser extent, German holiday- monument reflects architectural
makers enjoyed their cheap styles that influenced Spanish
package holidays. It also culture, including Byzantine,
developed its red-light district Romanesque and Arabic, and
and a raffish nightlife to provide carved into the structure are
“recreation” for sailors of the representations of Spain’s history.
US navy in port at Málaga. Only the exterior may be visited. Boxes of fresh fish, Fuengirola
The town was cleaned up Europe’s largest Buddhist
as part of a scheme that spent monument, the Benálmadena
huge sums on new squares, a Stupa, is also located here. vMarbella
promenade, green spaces and Málaga. Road map C4. * 120,000.
enlarging the beach with millions P Castillo de Colomares @ n Glorieta de la Fontanilla s/n,
of tonnes of golden sand. Carretera del Sol (El Viñazo). Tel 952 44 Paseo Maritimo (952 76 87 60).
Although Torremolinos still 88 21. Open 10am–2pm daily, (also ( Mon & Sat (Puerto Banús).
has scores of English bars run 4–7pm Apr–Jun & Sep–Oct, 5–9pm ∑ marbella.es
by expatriates, the atmosphere Jul & Aug, 4–6pm Nov–Mar).
is now decidedly less down- P Stupa Marbella is one of Europe’s
market, especially at Carihuela Calle Muérdago s/n, El Retamar. Tel most exclusive holiday resorts.
beach, towards the adjoining 606 27 53 75. Open 10am–2pm, 3:30– Royalty, film stars and other
resort of Benalmádena. 7pm Tue–Sat; 10am–7:30pm Sun. & members of the jet set spend

















Yachts and motorboats moored in the exclusive marina of Marbella
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp218–19 and pp232–6

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  185


Life in the Sun
The idealized image of the Costa del
Sol before tourism is of idyllic fishing
villages where life was always at an
easy pace. It is true to say that local
economies have turned away from
fishing and agriculture, and that
the natural beauty of this coast has
been marred by development. Any
measured view, however, should
consider the situation described by
Laurie Lee, the writer who in 1936
wrote of “… salt-fish villages, thin-
ribbed, sea-hating, cursing their place
in the sun”. Today, few Andalucíans
19th-century lithograph of the harbour at Málaga curse their new-found prosperity.

their summers here, in smart in the Plaza de la Iglesia, the
villas or at one of Marbella’s town square. Most of the smart
luxury hotels. In winter, the holiday developments are on
major attraction is the golf the town’s fringes, set amid a
(see pp36–7). number of golf courses.
As well as extensive modern
developments, Marbella boasts E Museo del Grabado
a well-preserved, charming Old Contemporáneo
Town. A number of streets lead C/Hospital Bazan s/n. Tel 952 76 57 41.
from the main road, Avenida Open Mon–Sat. Closed public hols. &
Ramón y Cajal, to Plaza de los
Naranjos, the main square,
surrounded by orange trees bEstepona
(hence its name). Málaga. Road map C4. * 46,000. @
The remains of the town’s n Plaza de las Flores, s/n (952 80 20
Arab walls loom over adjacent 02). ( Wed & Sun. ∑ estepona.es
Calle Carmen, which leads to The leafy Plaza de las Flores hidden in
the 17th-century Iglesia de This former fishing village, Estepona’s backstreets
Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación. situated midway between
Nearby is the Museo del Marbella and Gibraltar, has hotels and apartment blocks
Grabado Contemporaneo been altered, but not totally fronting the town’s busy main
(Museum of Contemporary overwhelmed, by tourist tourist area. Behind, however,
Engravings), which contains developments. Now a popular there are endearing pockets of
works by Miró and Picasso. resort, it is not particularly all that is quintessentially
On the other side of Avenida attractive at first sight, with big Spanish – orange trees lining
Ramón y Cajal is the Paseo the streets, and the lovely
de la Alameda, a park with Plaza Arce and Plaza de
benches decorated with colour- las Flores –peaceful squares
ful ceramics. From here, the where old men sit reading
road to the seafront, Avenida newspapers while around
del Mar, is lined with sculptures them children kick footballs
made from designs by famous about. There are also a few
painter Salvador Dalí. good, relatively inexpensive
Heading west, Avenida fish restaurants and tapas
Ramón y Cajal becomes the bars serving traditional
A7/N340. The first stretch is delicacies. The beach is
known as the “Golden Mile” pleasant enough and
because of its real-estate value. evenings in the town tend
At the other end of the Golden to be quiet, which makes
Mile is Puerto Banús, the most the resort popular with
exclusive marina in Spain. families with young
Beyond Puerto Banús is children. Not far away
San Pedro de Alcántara, really a from Estepona, however, is
separate town but officially part a popular nudist beach
of Marbella. It is quiet, with a called the Costa Natura
sleepy atmosphere, especially Relaxing in peaceful San Pedro de Alcántara (see pp36–7).

186  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

n Tangier

Tangier is only 45 minutes by fast ferry from Tarifa, making it a
perfect day trip. Despite its proximity, this ancient Moroccan
port, founded by the Berbers before 1000 BC, will be a sharp
culture shock for those used to life in Europe. Tangier is vibrant
with eastern colour, and the vast, labyrinthine Medina, the
market quarter, pulsates with noise. From their workshops in
back alleys, craftsmen make traditional goods for busy shops
and stalls in the crowded streets. Yet behind wrought-iron
railings the traveller will see tranquil courtyards decorated View into the labyrinthine Medina
with mosaics, cool fountains and mosques.
from the Grand Socco
Sights at a Glance
1 Dar El Makhzen R U E R I A D S U LTA N
2 Kasbah PLACE RUE
DU
PLACE
3 Hôtel Continental TABOR Kasbah KASBAH LAITOUN
DE LA
4 Grand Mosque PLACE DE
Dar El
5 Rue es Siaghin Makhzen Hôtel
L'ARSENAL
6 Grand Socco R U E M AIM OUNI
Continental
7 American Legation RUE DE LA RUE JNANE EL KAPTAN BEN RAISOUL
RUE SIDI
A BDES S A D E K RUE D A R EL BAROUD
KASBAH
RUE BE N
E Dar El Makhzen R U E S E BOU RUE M. TORRES
Place de la Kasbah. Tel 212 39 RU E L UC CUS RUE DU
PLACE DE
93 20 97. Open Wed–Mon. & LA FUENTE BAIN
NUEVA
Sultan Moulay Ismail, who RUE RUE DES CHRÉTIENS RUE DU COMMERCE RUE JM A Grand
unified Morocco in the NACERIA EL KB IR Mosque
17th century, had this palace AVENUE HASSANIER RUE RUE MO KHTA R
built within the Kasbah. A H AR DAN
PLACE
The sultans lived here until Parc de la D'ITALIE TANNERIE
DE LA
SIAGHIN
1912. It is now a museum Mendoubia RUE ES
of crafts such as ceramics, PLACE DU
embroidery and ironwork. BOU ABIB TOUA H I NE PROGRÈS
R U E
The exhibits are arranged RUE DU
round a central courtyard and RUE SIDI Grand Socco American PORTUGAL
FOUR
in cool rooms with tiled ceilings. R UE SALAH EDDIN Legation DU
There are illuminated Korans in EL AYOUBI RUE
the Fez Room and a courtyard
in the style of Andalucían 0 metres 100
Moorish gardens. 0 yards 100
P Kasbah P Hôtel Continental
The Kasbah or citadel, where Rue Dar El Baroud. Tel 212 39 93 10 24.
the sultans once held court, Open daily.
is at the Medina’s highest point. Numerous intrigues have
It is separated from its alleys by been played out in this hotel
sturdy walls and four massive overlooking the port. Today it is
stone gateways. From the a fine place to sit and drink tea.
battlements there are views
over the Strait of Gibraltar. U Grand Mosque
The Kasbah encloses the Green and white minarets
Dar El Makhzen, the treasury rise above this massive edifice
house, the old prison and the built in the 17th century
law courts. Villas once owned by Sultan Moulay Ismail. An
by American and European exquisitely carved gateway
celebrities, such as Paul Bowles, suggests more treasures
the author of The Sheltering within – non-Muslims, however,
Sky, are also within the y, are also within the y
Sk Sk Façade of the Dar El Makhzen, the museum are forbidden from entering
Kasbah walls. of Moroccan arts any mosque.
For keys to symbols see back flap

C Á DIZ AND M Á LA GA  187


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST P American Legation
Rue du Portugal. Tel 212 39 93 53 17.
Practical Information Open 10am–5pm Mon–Fri.
Morocco. ∑ legation.org
Road map B4. * 315,000. This former palace was the
Languages: Arabic, French. USA’s first diplomatic mission.
Currency: dirhams Visas: Visitors It was the American Embassy
from the UK, Ireland, New Zealand, until 1961 and is now a
Australia, the US or Canada require museum with an exhibit
no visa for a visit of up to 90 days.
devoted to writer Paul Bowles.
Transport
g (fast ferry) from Gibraltar; from
Algeciras by Trasmediterranea mCeuta
956 58 75 06. See p265 for more p265 for more p265
info on getting to North Africa. n Road map C4. * 76,000. g from
29 Blvd Pasteur (212 39 94 80 50). Algeciras (see p265). n Calle Edrisis,
Baluarte de los Mallorquines (856 20
05 60). ∑ ceuta.si
The closest of Spain’s two North European architectural influence in the
African enclaves to Europe is North African enclave of Ceuta
worth visiting if you want to dip
your toe into North Africa ,Melilla
without leaving Spain (although Road map E5. * 69,000. g from
you will need to show an identity Málaga or Almería. See p265 for travel
card or passport on entering), or info. n Palacio de Exposiciones y
if are on your way to Morocco. Congresos, Calle Fortuny 21 (952 97
Ceuta, only 19 km (12 miles) from 61 51). ∑ melillaturismo.com
mainland Spain, is dominated by
a hill called Monte Hacho, on Spain’s second North African
The carved façade of Tangier’s which there is a fort occupied by enclave, settled by Spain in
Grand Mosque the Spanish army. The city has 1497, is located 150 km (90
Phoenician and Arab remains, miles) due south of Adra (in
P Rue es Siaghin churches dating from the 17th Almería), across the sea, on
The Medina’s “Silversmith’s Street” to the 19th centuries and the Moroccan coast. It takes
was Tangier’s main thoroughfare several museums, including the a little effort to get there, as
in the 1930s and still offers a Museo de la Legion, dedicated Melilla is a six hour ferry ride
staggering array of merchandise; to the Spanish Foreign Legion. from mainland Spain, but it
shop owners will offer you mint Ceuta’s shops offer the is worth it as there is plenty to
tea in a bid to get you to buy. chance to indulge in some tax- see, including the only Gothic
free shopping. Both Ceuta and architecture in Africa and
P Grand Socco Melilla are surrounded by high samples of Modernisme, the
Traders from the Rif mountains fences, as they are European Catalan version of Art Nouveau
come to barter their goods at entry points for illegal immigrants architecture. Modern-day
this busy main square at the from parts of Africa. Melilla prides itself on being a
heart of Tangier. The square’s place of peaceful co-existence
official name, Place du 9 Avril E Museo de la Legión between its main four
1947, commemorates a visit by Avda Deán Navarro Acuña 6. Tel 956 component cultures: Christian,
Sultan Muhammad V. 52 62 19. Open 10am–1pm Mon–Sat. Muslim, Jewish and Hindu.
All the principal sights are
located in Melilla La Vieja (Old
The International Era
Melilla), a cluster of four fortified
From 1932 until its incorporation areas separated by moats or
into Morocco in 1956, Tangier was walls, built in the 14th century
an international zone, tax free and on a hammer-head promontory
under the control of a committee jutting out into the sea.
of 30 nations. This was an era that The 19th- and 20th-century
was characterized by financial fraud, parts of the city, however,
espionage, large-scale smuggling,
outrageous sexual licence and are equally worth strolling
profligacy by wealthy tax exiles, around in, since they include
such as heiress Barbara Hutton. an abundance of splendid
Celebrities such as Henri Matisse, Modernisme and Art Deco
Jack Kerouac and Orson Welles Wealthy American socialite Barbara buildings. There are around
added colour to the scene. Woolworth Hutton in Tangier 900 period edifices in Melilla.
There is also a small beach.



AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA  189

GRANADA

AND ALMERÍA


Eastern Andalucía is dominated by the Sierra Nevada,
Iberia’s highest range and one of Spain’s premier winter sports
venues. At its foot is Granada, once a Moorish kingdom, with a royal palace, the
Alhambra, straight out of One Thousand and One Nights. Ruined fortresses, relics
of a warring past, dominate the towns of Granada province. In Almería’s arid
interior, film directors have put to use atmospheric landscapes reminiscent of
Arabia or the Wild West.
At the point where the mountains of the East of Granada, the landscape becomes
Sierra Nevada meet the plain, 670 m (2,200 ft) more arid. Around the town of Guadix,
above sea level, nestles the ancient city of founded in Phoenician and Roman times,
Granada, founded by the Iberians. For 250 thousands of people live in cave-houses.
years it was the capital of a Moorish kingdom A statue of an Iberian goddess from pre-
whose borders enclosed both Almería and Roman times was found at Baza, and at Los
Málaga provinces. On a ridge overlooking Millares, near Almería, there are traces of a
the city rises the royal citadel of the Alhambra, 4,000-year-old settlement. In contrast, just
a complex of palaces and water gardens. outside Guadix is one of Europe’s major
The mountainous terrain of Granada solar power plants, the Andasol solar
province is starkly impressive. Amid the power station.
ravines, crags and terraced fields of Las Almería, a flourishing port in the Moorish
Alpujarras on the southern flank of the era, has been revitalized by a new form of
Sierra Nevada, the villages seem to cling agriculture. Plastic greenhouses now cover
to the sheer slopes. Along the coastal strip hectares of its surrounding province, pro-
of Granada province, avocados and custard ducing fruit and vegetables all year round.
apples flourish in the subtropical climate. Along the sparsely populated coast of
Hotels, villas and holiday apartment blocks Cabo de Gata, little-visited villages and
are also much in evidence here. bays doze in year-round sunshine.























The Renaissance castle of La Calahorra at the foot of the Sierra Nevada
Street view in Alpujarras de la Sierra, with the Sierra Nevada mountains in the background

190  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Exploring Granada and Almería

Granada and the Alhambra are the obvious highlights
of this region, but are only a part of its appeal.
Improved roads make it easy to reach most places
within a few hours, and from Granada it is possible to
explore the Sierra Nevada, plunge into the clear waters
of the Costa Tropical, or wander through beautiful,
spectacularly situated old towns, such as Montefrío
and Alhama de Granada. From Almería it is a short
hop to the Arizona-like country around Tabernas,
where spaghetti westerns were made, or to the The Alhambra, with the snow-covered Sierra Nevada
secluded beaches of the Parque Natural de Cabo mountain range in the background
de Gata. Each town and whitewashed village that
lies in between has its own charm.
Jaén
Guadahortuna Villanueva
de las Torres
Córdoba rde de
Benalúa Fardes Fardes
de las Villas F
Moreda Huélago
Iznalloz
Algarinejo Diezma
MONTEFRÍO
GRANADA GUADIX
Embalse de Pinos-
Iznájar Huétor Puente Peligros
Tájar Genil
GRANADA LA CALAHORRA
Sevilla
Riofrio LOJA SANTA FÉ
La Zubia Puerto de la Ragua
Mulhacén
3482m N E V A D A
Pico Veleta
Padul 3398m
ALHAMA Dúrcal S I E R R A
DE GRANADA Embalse de los Trevélez Válor
A L P U J A R R A S
Bermejales POQUEIRA VALLEY Cádiar
LANJARÓN L A S
Órgiva
i ij
Sierra de Almijara
Vélez de
Málaga Benaudalla Albuñol
SALOBREÑA
0 kilometres 20 Motril
La Rábita Adra
0 miles 10 ALMUÑÉCAR C o s t a T r o p i c a l
Sights at a Glance
1 Montefrío w La Calahorra a Níjar Key
2 Loja e Guadix s Sorbas Motorway
3 Alhama de Granada r Baza d Mojácar Major road
4 Santa Fé t Vélez Blanco Minor road
5 Granada pp194–202 y Tabernas Tour Scenic route
6 Almuñécar u Roquetas de Mar 9 Las Alpujarras
7 Salobreña i Almería pp206–7 Major railway
8 Lanjarón o Parque Natural de Minor railway
0 Poqueira Valley Cabo de Gata Provincial border
q Sierra Nevada p San José Summit
For additional map symbols see back flap

GR ANAD A AND ALMER Í A  191







S e g u r a Puebla de
Sagra
d e 2382m Don Fadrique
S i e r r a


Huéscar
VÉLEZ
Castillejar Galera María BLANCO Avenida de Andalucía, the
Guardal rda rd d Vélez Rubio main street in Lanjarón
Embalse
de Negratin
Cúllar
Benamaurel
Chirivel
Zújar Lorca
BAZA Oria Santa María
de Nieva
Caniles Pulpí
Albox
Huércal-Overa
lm nzora
l
nz z
Sier r a Almanzora r
de Baza Purchena
Serón Macael Cuevas del
ALMERÍA Almanzora
Vera
Tetica de Bacares
2088m
Fiñana S i e r r a d e l o s F i l a b r e s Uleila del Campo Garrucha
MOJÁCAR
Abla Gérgal
S i e r r a
SORBAS C a b r e r a
Laujar de TABERNAS
Andarax Canjáyar A l h a m i l l a Carboneras
S i e r r a
Gádor NÍJAR TA Punta de los
Benahadux NATURAL GATA T Muertos
S i e r r a d e
G á d o r DE
Berja Rodalquilar
Dalías ALMERÍA PARQUE CABO Punta de la Polacra
A l m e r í a El Cabo PA P DE
El Ejido de Gata SAN JOSÉ
ROQUETAS d e
DE MAR Cabo de Gata
C o s t a
Getting Around
The A92 runs east to Guadix and then
turns south to Almería. The A92N continues
east from Guadix towards Lorca. The N340
follows the coast via Almería and the Costa
Tropical. The N323 links the coast with
Granada and the A348 connects the villages
of the Alpujarras. There are three trains a
day between Granada and Almería, but no
coastal rail service. Frequent buses run from
Spaghetti-western-style landscape near Tabernas both cities to towns on main routes.

192  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA



















Whitewashed houses on the edge of the gorge at Alhama de Granada, surrounded by olive groves
1Montefrío some beautiful fountains. East church also has a Renaissance
of the town, the fast-flowing bell tower designed by Diego de
Granada. Road map D3. * 7,000. @
n Plaza de España 1 (958 33 60 04). Río Genil cuts through Los Siloé. Nearby is the 16th-century
( Mon. Infiernos gorge. Sample local Hospital de la Reina, now an
trout in Riofrío, to the west. exhibition centre for local artists
Montefrío is the archetypal housing a fine artesonado ceiling.
Andalucían town, which, 3Alhama de
approached by road from the P Hotel Balneario
south, offers wonderful views of Granada Calle Balneario. Tel 958 35 00 11.
tiled rooftops and whitewashed Granada. Road map D3. * 6,000. Open Mar–Nov.
houses running up to a steep @ n Carrera de Francisco P Hospital de la Reina
crag. The village is surmounted Toledo 10 (958 36 06 86). ( Fri. Calle Vendederas s/n. Tel 958 36 06 86
by remains of Moorish ∑ turismodealhama.com (tourist office). Open 9am–3pm Mon–
fortifications and the Fri. Contact Tourist Office to visit (open
16th-century Gothic Alhama is a charming, small 8am–3pm Mon–Fri) and for tours of
Iglesia de la Villa, which town balanced above a other local sights.
is attributed to Diego de gorge. It was known as Al
Siloé. Located in the hamma (hot springs) to 4Santa Fé
centre of town stands the Arabs. Their baths
the Iglesia de la can still be seen in Granada. Road map D3. * 12,500.
Encarnación, in Neo- Hotel Balneario on @ n Arco de Sevilla, Calle Isabel la
Classical design; the the edge of the town. Católica 7 (958 51 31 10). ( Thu.
architect Ventura Alhama’s fall to the
Rodríguez (1717–85) Christians in 1482 led The army of the Catholic
is credited with its to the final humiliation Monarchs camped here as it lay
design. Montefrío is of the Nasrid siege to Granada (see p52). The
also famed for the kingdom at Granada camp burned down, it is said,
high quality of its in 1492 (see p52). after a maid placed a candle too
pork products. Belfry of Templo de San The 16th-century close to a curtain in Isabel’s tent.
Gabriel at Loja Iglesia de Carmen Fernando ordered a model
has a number of very town to be built. Its name, “holy
2Loja fine paintings inside its dome, faith”, was chosen by the
which had to be restored after devout Isabel. In 1492 the
Granada. Road map D3. * 21,000.
£ @ n Edificio Espacio Joven damage incurred during the Moors made a formal
Spanish Civil War (see Civil War (see Civil War
Spanish
Calle Comedias 2 (958 32 15 20). Spanish surrender at Santa Fé
( Mon. ∑ lojaturismo.com pp58–9). Narrow, imma- and here, in the same
culately white-washed year, the two
A ruined Moorish fort rises streets lead to the Iglesia monarchs backed
above the crooked streets of de la Encarnación, founded Columbus’s voyage of
the old town of Loja, which by the Catholic Monarchs (see exploration (see p131). An
was built at a strategic point on pp52–3) in the 16th century. earthquake destroyed
the Río Genil. The Renaissance Some of the vestments some of the town in 1806.
Templo de San Gabriel (1566) worn by the present-day A Moor’s severed head,
has a striking façade, designed priests are said to have carved in stone,
by Diego de Siloé. Known as been embroidered by Spire-tip of the decorates the spire of
“the city of water”, Loja also has Queen Isabel herself. The church, Santa Fé the parish church.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7

GR ANAD A AND ALMER Í A  193

5Granada
See pp194–202.

6Almuñécar
Granada. Road map D3. * 22,000.
@ n Avenida Europa s/n (958 63 11
25). ( Fri. ∑ turismoalmunecar.es
Almuñécar lies on southern
Spain’s most spectacular coast,
the Costa Tropical (see p37),
where mountains rise to over
2,000 m (6,560 ft) from the
shores of the Mediterranean Castillo de San Miguel, overlooking the village of Almuñécar
Sea. The Phoenicians founded
the first settlement, called Sexi, in the Museo Arqueológico streets wend their way up a hill
at Almuñécar, and the Romans Cueva de Siete Palacìos. first fortified by the Phoenicians.
built an aqueduct here. When The hill later became the site
the English writer Laurie Lee + Castillo de San Miguel of the restored Castillo Arabe,
made his long trek across Tel 650 02 75 84. Open Tue–Sun. & which gives fine views of
Spain in 1936, he described O Parque Ornitológico the Sierra Nevada (see p203).
Almuñécar as “a tumbling little Plaza de Abderraman s/n. Tel 958 63 Modern developments, bars
village fronted by a strip of 56 17. Open daily. & and restaurants line part of
grey sand, which some hoped E Museo Arqueológico Cueva this resort’s lengthy beach.
would be an attraction for de Siete Palacìos
tourists”. On returning in the Calle Cueva de Siete Palacios s/n. + Castillo Arabe
1950s, he found a village still Tel 607 86 54 66. Open Tue–Sun. & Falda del Castillo, Calle Andrés Segovia.
coming to terms with the Tel 958 61 03 14. Open daily.
Spanish Civil War (see pp58–9), & 7 8
which he recounts in his 7Salobreña
novel A Rose for Winter.
Almuñécar is now a holiday Granada. Road map E3. * 10,500. @ 8Lanjarón
n Plaza de Goya s/n (958 61 03 14).
resort. Above the old town is ( Tue & Fri. ∑ ayto-salobrena.org Granada. Road map E3. * 24,000. @
the Castillo de San Miguel. In n Avda de Madrid s/n (958 77 04 62).
its shadow are botanic gardens, From across the coastal plain, ( Tue & Fri. ∑ lanjanet.com
the Parque Ornitológico and a Salobreña looks like a white
Roman fish-salting factory. liner sailing above a sea of Scores of snow-fed springs
Phoenician artifacts are displayed waving sugar cane. Narrow bubble from the slopes below
the Sierra Nevada, and Lanjarón,
on the threshold of Las Alpujarras
(see pp204–5), has a long history
as a spa. From June to October
visitors flock to the town to take
the waters and, under medical
supervision, enjoy various water
treatments for arthritis, obesity,
nervous tension and other
ailments. Lanjarón bottled water
is sold all over Spain.
The town occupies a lovely
site, but it can seem melancholic.
The exception to this is during
the early hours of the festival of
San Juan (see p39) when a water
battle takes place. Anybody who
dares venture into the streets
gets liberally doused.

P Balneario
Balneario de Lanjarón. Tel 958 77
04 54. Open daily. Closed mid-
Dec–mid-Jan. & 7
The village of Salobreña viewed across fields of sugar cane ∑ hotelbalneariolanjaron.com

194  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

5 Granada

The guitarist Andres Segovia (1893–1987) described Granada
as a “place of dreams, where the Lord put the seed of music in
my soul”. It was ruled by the Nasrid dynasty (see pp52–3) from
1238 until 1492 when it fell to the Catholic Monarchs. Before
the Moors were expelled, artisans, merchants, scholars and
scientists all contributed to the city’s reputation as a centre
for culture. Under Christian rule the city became a focus for
the Renaissance. After a period of decline in the 19th century,
Granada has become the subject of renewed interest and
efforts are being made to restore parts of it to their past glory.

reliefs depicting the fall of
Granada (see pp52–3). Carrara
marble figures of Fernando and Entrance to the Moorish mihrab in the
Isabel repose next to those of Palacio de la Madraza
their daughter Juana la Loca (the
Mad) and her husband Felipe el Originally it was a storehouse
Hermoso (the Handsome), both and inn for merchants who
by sculptor Bartolomé Ordóñez. mainly dealt in coal.
Steps lead down to the crypt In Christian times it
where their corpses are stored was a venue for theatrical
in lead coffins. In the sacristy performances. Today it houses
there are many art treasures, government offices.
including paintings by Van der
Weyden and Botticelli. Glass P Casa de los Tiros
cases house Isabel’s crown and Calle Pavaneras 19. Tel 958 22 06 29.
Fernando’s sword. Open Jun–mid-Sep: 9am–3:30pm
Façade of Granada cathedral Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun & public
P Palacio de la Madraza hols; mid-Sep–May: 10am–8:30pm
R Catedral Calle Oficios 14. Tel 958 99 63 50. Tue–Sat, 10am–5pm Sun &
C/Gran Via 5. Tel 958 22 29 59. Open daily. 7 public hols.
On the orders of the Catholic Originally an Arab university, this This fortress-like palace was
Monarchs, work on the cathedral building later became the city built in Renaissance style in the
began in 1523 to Enrique de hall. The façade dates from the 16th century. It was once the
Egas’s Gothic-style plans. It 18th century. Inside is a Moorish property of a family who were
continued under the Renaissance hall with a finely decorated awarded the Generalife after
maestro Diego de Siloé, who also mihrab. Today the Palacio is part the fall of Granada (see pp52–3);
designed the façade. Corinthian of the University of Granada. among their possessions was a
pillars support his circular Capilla sword belonging to Boabdil
Mayor. Under its dome, windows P Corral del Carbón (see p53). The sword is
of 16th-century glass depict Juan Calle Mariana Pineda s/n. Tel 958 22 59 represented on the façade.
del Campo’s The Passion. The 90. Open 10:30am–1:30pm, 5–8pm The building owes its name to
west front was designed by Mon–Fri; 10:30am–2pm Sat. 7 the muskets projecting from
local Baroque artist Alonso Cano. This galleried courtyard is a its battlements, tiros being
His grave and many of his works unique relic of the Moorish era. the Spanish word for shot.
are housed in the cathedral. By
the entrance arch are wooden
statues of the Catholic Monarchs
carved by Pedro de Mena in 1677.
R Capilla Real
C/Oficios 3. Tel 958 22 92 39.
The Royal Chapel was built for
the Catholic Monarchs between
1505 and 1507 by Enrique de
Egas. A magnificent reja (grille)
by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén
encloses the mausoleums and
high altar. The retablo by the
sculptor Felipe de Vigarney has Reja by Maestro Bartolomé de Jaén enclosing the altar of the Capilla Real
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7

GR ANAD A  195


P Mirador de San Nicolás
From this square visitors can
enjoy splendid sunset views.
Tiled rooftops drop away
to the Darro river, on the far
side of which stands the great
complex of the Alhambra;
the Sierra Nevada provides a
suitably dramatic backdrop.
P El Bañuelo
Carrera del Darro 31. Tel 958 02 78 00.
Open 10am–2pm Tue–Sat.
Closed public hols. Cupola in the sanctuary of the Monasterio de la Cartuja
These brick-vaulted Arab baths,
located near the Darro river, E Palacio Carlos V P Alhambra
were built in the 11th century. Alhambra. Tel 958 56 35 08. See pp198–9.
Roman, Visigothic and Arab Open Tue–Sun (opening hours vary
capitals were all incorporated month by month so call ahead). R Monasterio de la Cartuja
into the baths’ columns. This Italian Renaissance palace Tel 958 16 19 32. Open 10am–1pm,
in the Alhambra is the master- 4–8pm daily.&
E Museo Arqueológico piece of Pedro Machuca, a A Christian warrior, El Gran
Carrera del Darro 43. Tel 958 57 student of Michelangelo. It Capitán, donated the land
52 02 (tourist office). Closed houses the Museo Hispano- on which this monastery was
for renovations. Musulmán and the Museo de built in 1516. A cupola by
The Renaissance Casa de Castril, Bellas Artes. The highlight of the Antonio Palomino tops the
which has a Plateresque portal, Muslim art collection is a most sanctuary. The Churrigueresque
houses this museum of Iberian, exquisite 15th-century vase sacristy (see p29) is by mason
Phoenician, Roman and Arab from the Alhambra, which has Luis de Arévalo and sculptor
antiquities and artifacts. brilliant blue and gold designs. Luis Cabello.
Sights at a Glance 4 Corral del Carbón 8 Museo Arqueológico
1 Catedral 5 Casa de los Tiros 9 Palacio Carlos V
2 Capilla Real 6 Mirador de San Nicolás 0 Alhambra
3 Palacio de la Madraza 7 El Bañuelo
Monasterio de 0 metres 250
la Cartuja
Train station PL. DE LA 0 yards 250
800m (880 yards) MERCED CUESTA DE LA ALHACABA
CORDOBA PANADEROS
SEVILLE
PLAZA
DE LOS Palacio de Arco de Iglesia del
las Pesas
NARANJOS Daralhorra Convento de PLAZA S. Salvador
ZENET E CRU Z DE QUIR Ó S PL. SAN SANTA ISABEL SE C O PILA R NUEVA DE SAN NI COLÁS Mirador de CUESTA
NICOLAS
Santa Isabel
San Nicolás
V
VA
MIGUEL
TA
T
BAJO
FRAILES DE
QUIJA DA M ULADAR de los Reyes S. AGUSTÍN PLAC. DE Sacromonte
San Juan
S A N
D E L
TENDILLAS PLAC. Convento LOS RE YE S TOQUEROS
J O S É
E L V I RA
DE LA DE de Santa VICTORIA CHAPI Z
CUESTA CRUZ VERDE Catalina Museo C. DE LA
PL. DE S. MARAÑAS PLACETA JU A N
Arqueológico
AGUSTÍN PORRAS PASEO DE LOS TRISTES
G R A N V Í A D E C O LÓ N
SAN
CARRERA DEL DARRO
AGUSTÍN C. CALDERÍA S A N El Bañuelo San Pedro Darro
NUEVA
Casa de
CÁRCEL Chancillería los Pisa y San Pablo Jardines
Real
Altos
SAN JER Ó NI M O
Iglesia de
Casas
T
Capilla PLAZA Santa Ana Alcazaba Reales CUESTA
TA
Catedral Real NUEVA
Palacio de DEL Generalife
PL. A. la Madraza
CANO CUE S TA DE GOMÉREZ Palacio
Carlos V Jardínes REY
CATÓLICOS
PLAZA
PL. BIB- ISABEL LA del Portal
CATÓLICA
RAMBLA Corral del Casa de C HICO
los Tiros
Carbón
REYES Ayuntamiento PASEO CENT RAL Alhambra
PLAZA PAVA NE RA S LOS ALAMIL L OS
DEL CARMEN PASEO DEL GENERA LIFE
CALLEJON NINA DEL ROJO
For keys to symbols see back flap

196  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: The Albaicín

This corner of Granada, clinging to the hillside opposite the
Alhambra, is where one feels closest to the city’s Moorish
ancestry. A fortress was first built here in the 13th century and
there were once over 30 mosques, some of which can still be
traced. Along narrow, cobbled alleys stand cármenes, villas with
Moorish decoration and gardens, secluded from the world by
their high walls. In the evening, when the scent of jasmine
lingers in the air, take a walk up to the Mirador de San Nicolás.
F F From here the view over a maze of rooftops and the Alhambra rom here the view over a maze of rooftops and the Alhambra rom here the view over a maze of roof
glowing in the sunset is magical.


Albaicín Street
Steep and sinuous, the Albaicín
streets form a virtual labyrinth.
Real Chancillería Many street names start with
Commissioned Cuesta, meaning slope.
by the Catholic
Monarchs, the
Royal Chancery
dates from 1530.
Its patio is attri-
buted to de Siloé.

J U A N
S A N
C A L L E C U E S TA



S A N TA
C A L L E


D A R R O I N É S
C Á R C E L
A I R E
D E L
A C E I T U N E R O S
C A R R E R A
P I S A S
A LTA
A N A
P L A Z A S A N T A
S A N TA A N A

Casa de los Pisas displays
works of art belonging to
the Knights Hospitallers,
founded by Juan de Dios
in the 16th century.
Key
Suggested route . Iglesia de Santa Ana
At the end of the Plaza Santa Ana stands
this 16th-century brick church in Mudéjar
0 metres 50
style. It has an elegant Plateresque portal
0 yards 50 and, inside, a coffered ceiling.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7

GR ANAD A  197

Carrera del Darro
The road along the Río Darro leads VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
past fine façades and crumbling
bridges. At the top end, several Practical Information
bars offer views of the Alhambra. Granada. Road map D3. *
250,000. n Santa Ana 4 (958 57
52 02); Plaza del Carmen s/n (958
24 82 80). ( Sat & Sun. _ Día
de la Cruz (3 May), Corpus Christi
(May/Jun). ∑ granadatur.com
Transport
k 12 km (7 miles) SE of city. £
. Museo Arqueológico Avenida de Andalucia s/n (902 43
The ornate façade of this museum 23 43). @ Carretera de Jaen s/n
has Plateresque carvings, including (902 42 22 42).
reliefs of mythological figures.
To Mirador
de San
Nicolás



R E Y E S C A R R E T E R A
D E L O S P L A Z C A L L E C A L L E D E L



G L O R I A
C O N C E P C I Ó N
C A R N E R O A B A C O N C E P C I Ó N Z A F R A S A N T Í S I M O

Ñ
U
C A R R E R A D E L D A R R O To Sacromonte
E
L
O
R Í O D A R R I O


Convento de Santa
Catalina de Zafra was
founded in 1521.
Sacromonte
Granada’s gypsies (Roma) formerly lived in the caves honey-
combing this hillside. Travellers such as Washington Irving
(see p57) would go there to enjoy spontaneous outbursts of
flamenco. Today, virtually all Roma have moved away, but
touristy flamenco shows of variable quality are still performed
here in the evenings (see p244). A Benedictine monastery,
the Abadía del Sacro-monte, sits at the very top of the hill.
Inside, the ashes of
San Cecilio,
Granada’s
patron saint,
. El Bañuelo are stored.
Star-shaped openings in the vaults
let light into these well-preserved Gypsies dancing
Moorish baths, which were built in flamenco, 19th century
the 11th century.

198  AND AL UCÍA AREA B Y AREA

Granada: Alhambra

A magical use of space, light, water and decoration
characterizes this most sensual piece of architecture.
It was built under Ismail I, Yusuf I and Muhammad V,
caliphs when the Nasrid dynasty (see p52) ruled
Granada. Seeking to belie an image of waning power,
they constructed their idea of paradise on Earth.
Modest materials were used (tiles, plaster and timber), . Salón de Embajadores
but they were superbly worked. Although the The ceiling of this sumptuous throne room,
Alhambra suffered from decay and pillage, including built between 1334 and 1354, represents
an attempt by Napoleon’s troops to blow it up, it has the seven heavens of the Muslim cosmos.
undergone extensive restoration and its delicate
craftsmanship still dazzles the eye.
. Patio de Arrayanes
This pool, set amid myrtle
hedges and graceful
arcades, reflects light into
the surrounding halls.
























KEY
1 Patio de Machuca
2 Sala de la Barca
3 Washington Irving’s Entrance
apartments
4 Jardín de Lindaraja
5 Baños Reales
6 The Sala de las Dos Hermanas,
with its honeycomb dome, is
regarded as the ultimate example
of Spanish Islamic architecture. Patio del Mexuar
This council chamber,
7 Puerta de la Rawda completed in 1365, was
8 The Palacio Carlos V (see p54),54),54 a where the reigning sultan
fine Renaissance building, was added listened to the petitions
to the Alhambra in 1526. of his subjects and held
meetings with his ministers.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p219 and pp236–7