EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOKYO
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOKYO
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EYEWITNESS TRAVEL
TOKYO
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Contents
Managing Editor Aruna Ghose How to Use
Editorial Manager Joseph Mathai This Guide 6
Design Manager Priyanka Thakur
Project Editor Arundhti Bhanot
Project Designer Rajnish Kashyap
Designer Anchal Kaushal
Senior Cartographic Manager Uma Bhattacharya
Cartographer Alok Pathak
Senior DTP Designer Vinod Harish
Senior Picture Researcher Taiyaba Khatoon
Picture Researcher Sumita Khatwani
Main Contributors
Jon Burbank, Emi Kazuko,
Stephen Mansfield, Robbie Swinnerton
Photographer Great Buddha statue at Kamakura
Martin Hladik
Illustrators Introducing
Richard Bonson, Gary Cross, Richard Draper, Paul Guest,
Claire Littlejohn, Maltings Partnership, Mel Pickering, John Woodcock Tokyo
Printed and bound in Malaysia
Great Days
First American Edition, 2008 in Tokyo 10
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Published in the United States by DK Publishing, Putting Tokyo
345 Hudson Street, New York, New York 10014 on the Map 14
Reprinted with revisions 2010, 2013, 2015, 2017
The History
Copyright © 2008, 2017 Dorling Kindersley Limited, London
A Penguin Random House Company of Japan 22
All rights reserved. Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above,
no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval Tokyo Through
system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means (electronic, mechanical,
photocopying, recording, or otherwise), without the prior written permission the Year 30
of both the copyright owner and the above publisher of this book.
Published in the UK by Dorling Kindersley Limited.
A catalog record for this book is available from the Library of Congress. Tokyo Area by
ISSN 1542-1554 Area
ISBN: 978-1-46545-731-8
Tokyo at a Glance 36
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with
American usage; ie the “first floor” is at ground level.
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, such as telephone numbers,
opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements, and travel information, are
liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences
arising from the use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and
cannot guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of
travel information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Post-modernist masterpiece, Glass Hall,
Front cover main image: The five-story pagoda at Takahata Fudo Temple Tokyo International Forum
Bugaku musicians and dancers at the Meiji Shrine Spring Festival
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Travelers’
Needs
Where to Stay 108
Where to Eat and Drink
116
Shopping in Tokyo
138
Entertainment in Tokyo
146
The expansive Yokohama Bay Bridge
Central Tokyo 38 Farther Afield 72
Three Guided
Walks 80
Beyond Tokyo 86 A typical selection of Japanese food
in a bento box
Survival Guide
Practical Information 156
1825 print by Hokusai depicting
the stages of wood-block printing Travel
Information 168
Northern Tokyo 48
Street Finder 176
Western Tokyo 60
General Index 186
Imperial figure at Yomeimon Gate,
Tosho-gu shrine, Nikko Acknowledgments 198
Phrase Book 200
Tosho-gu shrine, Nikko
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6 HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE
HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE
This guide helps you to get the most from and detailed maps. Farther Afield looks at
your visit to Tokyo. It provides detailed major sights of interest outside the city
practical information and expert center, and Beyond Tokyo explores other
recommendations. Introducing Tokyo places to visit within easy reach of the city.
maps the city and the region, sets it in its Carefully researched suggestions for
historical context, and guides you through restaurants, hotels, and shopping are found in
the succession of significant cultural events. the Travelers’ Needs section of the book, while
Tokyo Area by Area is the main sightseeing the Survival Guide contains useful advice on
section, giving detailed information on all the everything from changing money to traveling
major sights, with photographs, illustrations, on the extensive Tokyo subway network.
Tokyo
The center of Tokyo has been T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA 39 Area Map
divided into three sightseeing CENTRAL TOKYO The Shiodome skyscraper development 1The sights are numbered
Situated to the north and west of the
Sumida River, this area has been at the heart is another prominent commercial center. and located on a map. City
areas, each with its own of Tokyo since the first shogun, Ieyasu, built For more down-to-earth shopping, there
his castle and capital where the Imperial
is the Jimbocho area for books, Akihabara
Palace still stands today. Destroyed by a
Tsukiji Fish Market. Central Tokyo’s
series of disasters, including the Great Kanto for electron ics, and the early-morning center sights are also marked
chap ter, color-coded for easy Earthquake of 1923 and the Allied bombing continuing political importance is evident
in World War II, the area has reinvented itself
in the Hibiya and Marunouchi districts,
several times over. Ginza and Nihonbashi and the area is also home to two very on the Street Finder maps.
different shrines – Kanda and Yasukuni.
were commercial centers and are still
ref erence. Every chapter opens prosperous, offering a mix of department A selec tion of green spaces provides
stores and side-street boutiques.
a respite from the bustle elsewhere.
with an introduction to the part Sights at a Glance
Notable Districts Shrines w Kitanomaru Park
t Koishikawa Korakuen Garden
of Tokyo it covers, as well as an 1 Ginza see pp40–41 e Yasukuni Shrine Market
y Kanda Myojin Shrine
7 Nihonbashi District
8 Marunouchi District
Modern Architecture
3 Tsukiji Fish Market
0 Hibiya District
5 Shiodome
u Akihabara Electronics District
Area Map. This is followed by a r Jimbocho Booksellers’ District 6 Tokyo Tower
9 Tokyo International Forum
Historic Buildings
Parks and Gardens
2 Kabuki-za Theater
4 Hama Detached Palace Garden
Street-by-Street map illustrating 0 Diet Building Korakuen 6 Shiba Park 0 kilometers 0.5 1 A locator map shows where
q Imperial Palace
BUNKYO-KU
0 miles
Suidobashi you are in relation to other areas
the heart of the area. Iidabashi SOTOBORI-DORI Suidobashi Ochanomizu YUSHIMA-ZAKA AIOI-ZAKA Suehirocho Asakusa- in the city center.
S O T O B O R I - D O R I Kudanshita EXPRESSWAY NO.5 Shin Ochanomizu Iwamotocho bashi Yanagibashi
Akihabara
Ochanomizu
YA SU K U N I- DORI Jinbocho Takebashi HONGO-DORI Kanda Awajicho EXPRESSWAY NO.1 E DO-DO R I YASUKUNI-DORI Bakurocho Bakuro-yokoyama
EAST GARDEN Shin Nihonbashi CHUO-DORI Kodenmacho KIYOSUBASHI-DORI -DORI Hamacho Each area has color-
OF THE
IMPERIAL PALACE
Hanzomon
Sights at a Glance lists the area’s CHIYODA- UCHIBORI-DORI H I B I YA - D O R I Otemachi EITAI-DORI Mitsukoshimae Ningyocho Suitengumae coded thumb tabs.
SHIN-OHASHI
EXPRESSWAY NO.9
KU
key sights by category, such as EXPRESSWAY NO.4 RI-D O R I Sakuradamon Nijubashimae SOTOBRI-DORI Tokyo CHUO-DORI SHOWA-DORI Nihonbashi Hatchobori Kayabacho
U C HIB O
Nagatacho
Notable Districts, Historic Buildings, Gijidomae Kokkai- Kasumigaseki Toranmon Hibiya Yurakucho Ginza Kyobashi CHUO-KU Takaracho KA JIBASHI-DORI
Higashi-
Parks and Gardens, and Markets. EXPRESSWAY NO . 3 S A K U R A D A - D O R I Uchisaiwaicho T OK Y O AREA Tsukiji B Y AREA R i ve r CENTR AL T OK Y O 41
Shintomicho
ginza
S u m i d a
UCHIBORI-DORI
Roppongi-
HARUMI-DORI
itchome
Shinbashi
MINATO-KU HIBIYA-DORI 40 Shiodome Tsukijishijo
Kamiyacho
Onarimon 1 Street-by-Street: Ginza Printemps is a NORTHERN TOKYO
French department
Akabanebashi DAIICHI KEIHIN Ginza branch of the
Daimon When Ieyasu moved his military capital to Edo in 1600, store. Parisian
Hamamatsucho
Shibakoen Ginza was all swamp and marshland. Once filled in, the See also Street Finder influence came to CENTRAL TOKYO
EXPRESSWAY LOOP LINE maps 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6 Ginza in the 1930s WESTERN
area attracted tradesmen and merchants. The silver mint and can also be TOKYO
Tokyo’s Imperial Palace, with the landmark Nijubashi bridge in the foreground For keys to symbols see back flap seen in the nearby
that provided Ginza’s name, “silver place,” was built in 1612.
In 1872 fire destroyed everything and, with the Meiji French cafés and Locator Map
boutiques.
Restoration in full swing, the government ordered Irish
Street-by-Street map architect Thomas Waters to rebuild the area in red brick. Shoppers at the landmark Ginza Wako Department Store See Tokyo Street Finder map 5
From then on it was the focus for Western influences and
Yon-chome crossing
2This map gives a bird’s-eye all things modern, and is still one of Tokyo’s prime market clocktower is a popular symbol of Ginza, and the
Opposite the San’ai Building, this enduring
centers. Tiny shops selling local crafts mix with galle ries,
landmark was originally built in 1932. Its
department stores, and the ultra-modern Sony showroom
for an unrivaled shopping experience.
window displays are always entertaining.
view of interesting and department stores focus S O T O B O R I – D O R I Matsuya
Hankyu and Seibu
on fashions, with a mix
of Japanese and
important parts of each international Nihonbashi department store is
another huge store
labels.
stocking everything
from food to bonsai
sight seeing area. plants. Restaurant
City offers a large
range of cuisines.
N A M I K I – D O R I
Yurakucho Center Building, housing Hankyu and Seibu
A suggested route Gallery Center Building H A R U M I – D O R I C H U O – D O R I
On the second floor of
takes in some of the most this modern building S O T O B O R I – D O R I inte rior of this shop,
are a number of exclusive
Mikimoto
Visit the glittering
galleries showcasing
Japanese and West ern
interesting streets in the area. art. On the fifth is an N A M I K I – D O R I the original producer Mitsukoshi
auction house, and the
of cultured pearls.
sixth has the Ginza
Yokyo Hall, with exhibits Ginza Noh Department Store
This classic Tokyo store
by artists working in Theater Kabuki-za Theater retains an aura of glamor –
different media. M I Y U K I – D O R I (see p42) Ginza Yon-chome crossing, some people still dress up
to shop here. Do not miss
the particularly luxurious
is Ginza’s main intersection.
58 T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA NOR THERN T OK Y O 59 Namiki-Dori and S U Z U R A N – D O R I one of the busiest in the world, kimono department.
Chuo-Dori are now
called “Brand Street”
8 Senso-ji Temple . Main Hall VISITORS’ CHECKLIST with boutiques The Asahi
such as Gucci, Dior,
Sensoji Temple Inside the hall (1958) the Louis Vuitton, and Building contains
gold-plated main shrine
Cartier.
a traditional
Popularly known as Asakusa Kannon, this is Tokyo’s most sacred and houses the orig inal Kannon Practical Information kimono shop, 0 meters 100
Map 4 F2. n by station (03) 3842-
image. Worshipers come
silversmiths, and
spectacular temple. In AD 628, two fishermen dragged a small gold to pay their respects by 5566. Main Hall: Open 6am–5pm several boutiques. 0 yards 100
statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, from the Sumida throwing coins and daily (Oct–Mar: from 6:30am). Main San’ai Building
Grounds: Open 24 hours daily.
River. Their master built a shrine to Kannon, then in 645, the holy man lighting candles. Nakamise-dori: Open 9:30am–7pm Key Made of glass, this building is at its
Shokai built a temple to her. Its fame, wealth, and size grew until Sony Showroom daily. _ Sanja Mat suri (3rd Fri– Suggested walk route best at dusk when the lights and
Sun in May), Hagoita-Ichi (Racket
Sony’s latest technology and electronic gadgets are on
Tokugawa Ieyasu bestowed upon it a large stipend of land. The display on several floors here, and many can be tried out. Train line the glass, creating a magical effect.
neon signs inside shine through
Yoshiwara pleasure quarter moved nearby in 1657 only increas ing Fair, Dec 17–19).
its popularity. The temple survived the 1923 earth quake but not Transport For keys to symbols see back flap
Asakusa stn, Ginza & Toei-
World War II bombing. Its main buildings are therefore relative ly
new, but follow the Edo-era layout. Though the buildings are Asakusa lines. £ Tobu-Asakusa
stn, Tobu-Isesaki line.
impressive, it is the people following their daily rituals that
make this place so special.
Five-Story Pagoda
This replica of the original
was con structed in 1973.
The Visitors’ Checklist provides
. Main Hall detailed practical information.
Several large paintings hang
inside the main hall. The painting
of angels with lotus flowers is
a 20th-century work by
Insho Domoto.
. Nakamise-dori
This alley is a treasure trove of
KEY traditional wares, including Incense Burner Stars indicate the sights that
specialists in obi sashes, hair combs, One of the temple’s
1 For more details about fans, dolls, and kimonos. focal points, this
individual shops here, see pages incense burner
138–41 no reader should miss.
(jokoro) is constantly
2 The garden of Dembo-in surrounded by people
(abbot’s residence) is a tranquil wafting the smoke
stroll garden used as a training over them to keep
center for monks. It is a masterly them healthy.
arrangement of trees, bamboo
groves, lawns, and water.
3 Awashima-do Hall is dedicated
to a deity who looks after women.
4 This hexagonal temple is a
rare survivor from the 15th or
16th century. Tokyo’s main sights
5 Yogodo Hall houses eight
Buddha statues.
6 Asakusa Jinja, built in 1649, is a Kaminarimon Gate 3These are given two or
shrine dedicated to the fishermen “Thunder Gate” burned down
who found the Kannon statue. in 1865 and was not rebuilt
7 Niten-mon Gate was built in until 1960. The guardian
1618 as the entrance to the original statues of Fujin (right) and more full pages. All top
Tosho-gu shrine. Raijin (left) have old heads Nade Botokesan
This delicate statue
8 Statues donated by a wealthy and new bodies. Buddha
Edo merchant has been polished
9 Benten-yama Shoro belfry smooth by the sights in Tokyo are
stands amid a group of temple To Asakusa Station and hands of those Hozo-mon Gate
buildings. The bell used to ring tourist information hoping for good Built in 1964 of reinforced concrete, this two-story
on the hour in Edo. luck and help gate has a treasure house upstairs holding a described individually.
office with ailments. number of 14th-century Chinese sutras.
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HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE 7
Tokyo Area Map
Tokyo Area by Area
The colored areas shown on this The map below shows the three central areas of Tokyo
that contain most of the sights in this guide. The sights
surrounding central Tokyo are covered in Farther Afield,
while the Beyond Tokyo chapter describes places worth
map (see inside front cover) are the visiting that lie outside the capital. Each of the main
sightseeing areas has been color-coded for easy reference.
five main sightseeing areas used in
this guide. Each is covered in a full Northern Tokyo
Pages 48–59
chapter in Tokyo Area by Area (see
TOKYO
Beyond Tokyo NORTHERN
pp38–105). They are highlighted on Farther Afield Pages 86–105
other maps throughout the book. Pages 72–79
In Tokyo at a Glance, for example,
they help you locate the top sights. CENTRAL TOKYO
They are also used to help you WESTERN TOKYO
find the position of the three
walks (see pp80–85).
Central Tokyo
Pages 38–47
Western Tokyo
Pages 60–71 0 kilometers 1
0 miles 1
Tokyo
T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA 73 Farther Afield
FARTHER AFIELD 4This section covers those sights of
Due to Tokyo’s expansion in every conceivable shrine in downtown Fukagawa dates from the
dir ection, the area around the Imperial Palace 17th century. To the northwest, Rikugi-en, interest to visitors that are easily
is just one among several widely dispersed near Ikebukuro, is one of the Edo period’s
sights of interest around the city. Seeking last great stroll gardens. The atmospheric
them out, though, poses few problems in a Sengaku-ji temple, in the south, reconstructs
city with a superb transport system. The Japan the final scenes in the story of the 47 ronin, accessible from the city center.
Folk Crafts Museum and the Goto Art Museum a real-life tale of samurai loyalty and revenge.
are small gems in pleasant surroundings that In contrast, Ikebukuro and Ebisu are modern
give an idea of Tokyo life as well as its rich urban centers. Daikanyama, the chic fashion
heritage. Ryogoku, home to sumo wrestling, district, and the futuristic man-made island of
also features the fascinating Edo-Tokyo Odaiba, with its innovative architecture, offer
Museum. The impressive Tomioka Hachiman-gu a contemporary experience.
Sights at a Glance
Notable Districts Temples and Shrines Key
1 Ikebukuro District 5 Gokoku-ji Temple Main sightseeing area
2 Sugamo q Sengaku-ji Temple Expressway
3 Komagome Museums and Galleries Main road A key outlines the symbols used
6 Zoshigaya r Japan Folk Crafts Museum
7 Ryogoku District y Goto Art Museum
8 Downtown Fukagawa
0 Odaiba Scenic Transport Routes to read the map.
w Ebisu District 4 Arakawa Tram Line
e Daikanyama District Markets
t Shimokitazawa Beyond Tokyo
9 Toyosu Fish Market 0 km 1.5
0 miles 1.5
TOSHIMA- Ikebukuro Sugamo 5Places worth visiting that
Shimoigusa KU BEY OND T OK Y O 87
TAITO-KU are within a day’s travel of
BUNKYO-KU Ueno
Nakano
Asakusa SUMIDA-KU BEYOND TOKYO
NAKANO-KU SHINJUKU-KU Tokyo are described here.
Ryogoku
Shinjuku Some of the country’s most famous sights are just a short train
Kanda
Yoyogi Kiyosumi trip away from Tokyo. Foremost among these are the historic The general introduction
Minamidai CHIYODA-KU temple towns of Nikko, Narita, and Kamakura, and bustling
KOTO-KU Yokohama, Japan’s second-largest city. Hakone is a
Akasaka Ginza
CHUO EXPR ESSWAY SHIBUYA-KU CHUO-KU Toyo mountainous hot-spring town and on a clear day, is followed by a map that
Shibuya Roppongi it offers picturesque views of the soaring peak of
Akatsutsumi Shimbashi Mount Fuji – one of the great icons of Japan.
MINATO-KU Harumi gives an illustrated overview
SETAGAYA-KU Ebisu It takes less time than one would imagine shops. The origins of the magnificent
to leave behind the sprawling suburbs,
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu shrine date
TOMEI EXPRESSWAY MEGURO-KU dormitory towns, and industrial fringes from the 11th century, while the Great of the region, with major
of Tokyo to reach breathtaking natural Buddha, a splendidly realized bronze
Nakamachi Odaiba
Himonya
Kaminoge Tairamachi habitats and environs. Fine hiking trails, statue, has survived from when it was roads marked and useful
wildlife, and flora are easily accessed at
first cast in 1252. To the east of Tokyo,
Chichibu-Tama National Park and the Narita-san, an important temple
The suspended titanium dome at the Fuji TV Building, Odaiba Fuji Five Lakes area, while the volcanic associated with Fudo, the god of fire, is a
hills and gorges of Hakone and the place of common worship throughout tips on getting around by
Izu Peninsula have been hot-spring the year. Located a stone’s throw from
destinations for foreign visitors since Narita Airport, this temple provides the
the 19th century. chance to see how Japanese observe bus and train.
Yokohama, a cosmopolitan city with a their faith, right down to having new cars
vibrant port area, delightful museums, blessed and protective amulets hung on
and a large, atmospheric Chinatown them, in a ritual presided over by robed
A map of the city shows the district combines history, ethnicity, priests. Just an hour north of the capital,
and modernity. Yokohama’s neighbor
the elaborate shrines, rand gates, and
tombs of Nikko, where the first shogun
Kamakura, sitting snugly between green
location of Farther Afield sights hills and the Pacific, is a treasure-house Ieyasu is enshrined, are overshadowed
by towering forests of cryptomeria,
of spectacular Zen temples, tranquil
in relation to the city center. gardens, teahouses, and exquisite craft creating a mood of spiritual grandeur. Special features, such as
this one on Zen Buddhist
Temples, are highlighted
with maps or illustrations.
The introduction describes
the areas covered in this 94 BEY OND T OK Y O BEY OND T OK Y O 95
section and sets them in A row of Buddhist statues, Nikko, Tochigi prefecture Exploring Kita Kamakura gardens. As well as hydrangeas The Layout of a Zen Buddhist Temple
(at their peak in June), there are
Zen Buddhism came to Japan from China at the end of the
their historical context. Snow-capped Mount Fuji and the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park 12th century. Its simplicity and accessibility appealed to the irises; these bloom in late May, Japanese Zen temple layout is typically based on Chinese Sung-dynasty tem ples.
when the rear garden, usually
ethos of Kamakura samurai warriors as well as to ordi nary
only tantalizingly glimpsed
Essentially rectilinear and symmetrical (in contrast to native Japanese asym metry), Zen
people. Kita (north) Kamakura, a tranquil area of wooded through a round win dow, is temples have the main buildings in a straight line one behind another, on a roughly
opened to the public.
gullies, includes three of Kama kura’s five great Zen temples – north-south axis. The main buildings comprise the Sanmon (main gate), Butsuden
Kencho-ji, Engaku-ji, and Jochi-ji (the others are Jomyo-ji Kencho-ji Temple (Buddha Hall), Hatto lecture hall, sometimes a meditation or study hall, and the abbot’s
and Jufuku-ji). The area is served by its own train station, £ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) and monks’ quarters. In practice, sub temples often crowd around the main buildings and
from which most sights can be reached on foot. Delicate 22-0981. Open daily. & may obscure the basic layout. The temple compound is entered by a bridge over a pond or
vegetarian food (see p119), which complies with Zen dietary Kencho-ji is the foremost of stream, symbolically crossing from the earthly world to that of the Buddha. Buildings are
rules, can be tried at Kita Kamakura temples and restaurants. Kamakura’s five great Zen natural looking, often of unpainted wood, conducive to emptying the mind of worldly
temples and the oldest Zen illusions, to facilitate enlighten ment. The example below is based on Engaku-ji.
training monastery in Japan.
Engaku-ji Temple Founded in 1253, the temple
£ Kita Kamakura stn. originally had seven main The Shariden, in Shozoku-in Obai-in
Tel (0467) 22-0478. buildings and 49 subtemples; subtemple, enshrines the subtemple
Open daily. & many were destroyed in fires, Buddha’s tooth. The building
Deep in trees, the largest but 10 subtemples remain. is a National Treasure due to
its Zen architecture.
of Kama kura’s five great Beside the impressive Sanmon
Zen temples, Engaku-ji gate is the bell, cast in 1255,
was founded by the which has a Zen inscription
Hojo regent Tokimune by the temple’s founder. The
in 1282. An influential Buddha Hall contains a Jizo The Butsunichian subtemple
medi tation center since bodhisattva, savior of souls of is the mausoleum of Tokimune
the Meiji era, it now the dead. Behind the hall is the and contains a statue of him.
runs public courses. Hatto, where public cere monies
Although much are performed. The Karamon Pond The Daiho-jo was formerly the
abbot’s quarters and is now
of Engaku-ji was (Chinese gate) leads to the Hojo, used for religious rituals. Next
destroyed by the 1923 used for services. Its rear garden to it are a kitchen and library.
Kanto Earthquake, 17 is constructed around a pond
of its more than 40 supposedly in the shape of the
subtemples remain, and kanji character for heart or Juniper trees are sometimes
careful re building has mind. To the side of the temple Gravel planted near the main buildings
ensured that it retains its a tree-lined lane leads to sub- The Butsuden garden and are often grown from seeds
(Buddha Hall)
supposedly brought from China
charac teristic Zen layout
temples and up steps to Hanso-
Detailed Information (see opposite). One of Bosatsu statue at Kencho-ji bo, the temple’s shrine. contains an image of Former Hatto by the founder.
the Buddha. The hall
its highlights, in the
at Engaku-ji was
Karamon (Chinese gate)
the Shariden. Japan’s finest
6All the important sights are Shozoku-in subtemple, is Tokei-ji Temple Zeni-Arai Benten Shrine rebuilt in 1964. (lecture hall) Former bath
£ Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) 25-1081.
Open daily.
£ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467)
example of Chinese Sung-style
Zen archi tecture, it is open
The Senbutsu-jo is
22-1663. Open daily. &
This popular shrine is dedi cated
only at New Year but can be This quiet little temple was set to Benten, goddess of music, a thatched building
listed in order, following the seen through a gate at other up as a convent in 1285, at a eloquence, and the arts, and to be ordained. It
where priests used
one of the “seven lucky gods” of
time when only men were
times. Farther on, the Butsuni-
now occasion ally
allowed to petition for divorce.
folk religion. Hidden in a niche
chian, mauso leum of Engaku-ji’s
serves as a
numbering on the Area Map. founder, serves matcha tea. It However, if a woman spent three in the cliffs, it is approached meditation hall.
through a small tunnel and a
years here she could divorce
was the setting for Yasunari
Kawabata’s 1949 novel Sen
her husband. Thus Tokei-ji was
row of torii (gates). These lead
to a pocket of wafting incense,
nicknamed the “divorce temple.”
bazuru (Thousand Cranes).
Practical information, including In 1873 the law was changed to lucky charms, and a cave spring Archery Engaku-ji, the largest in
The temple bell at
where visitors wash coins in the
allow women to initiate divorce;
hope of doubling their value.
in 1902 Tokei-ji became a mona-
stery. It is still refuge-like, with hall Kamakura, dates from
1301 and is now rung
map references, opening wooded hillside. Somon (gate) The bridge to Engaku-ji
gardens stretching back to the
only on New Year’s Eve.
Meigetsu-in Temple
hours, and telephone £ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) The Sanmon is the main crosses the White Heron pond.
The path also crosses the rail
gate. Made of wood and
24-3437. Open daily. &
track, doubling the symbolism
held together without nails,
Known as the “hydrangea
Stone monuments in the peaceful cemetery temple,” Meigetsu-in is a small it was built in 1783. of leaving the real world.
numbers, is also provided. at Tokei-ji temple Zen temple with attractive Washing coins at Zeni-Arai Benten shrine
006-007_EW_Tokyo.indd 7 12/09/16 11:23 am
008-009_EW_Tokyo.indd 8 12/09/16 11:27 am
INTRODUCING
TOKYO
Great Days in Tokyo 10–13
Putting Tokyo on the Map 14–15
A Portrait of Tokyo 16–21
The History of Japan 22–29
Tokyo Through the Year 30–33
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10 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
GREAT DAYS IN TOKYO
In little more than 400 years Tokyo has as well as taking in the city’s famed
grown from being an impoverished fishing futuristic architecture. They are designed
village to arguably the world’s largest to give a broad flavor of Tokyo and
metropolis. These itineraries sample the illustrate how this vibrant city preserves
traditional sights of Edo (see p27), such its past while striding boldly into the
as the Imperial Palace and its moats, and future. Prices mentioned include cost
the historically important Sumida River, of travel, food, and admission fees.
watch Japan’s public broad-
caster produce TV programs,
and catch live broadcasts as
well. The muse um includes a
kids play zone, a 3D theater
and a “Children’s Sphere”, where
kids can watch TV shows and
even meet the characters who
appear in them. After, take the
JR Yamanote Line from Shibuya
to Harajuku Station and walk
along Omotesando-dori to
Maisen (see p133), for a great
Akihabara, or “Electric Town,” lined with high-tech stores lunch of tonkatsu (deep-fried
pork cutlets) before checking
Architecture Afternoon out Crayon House (see p141),
and Electronics Take the Yurikamome Line to an excellent children’s bookstore.
Shimbashi Station, changing
Family of 4 allow at least to the JR Yamanote Line for Afternoon
¥10,000 Akihabara (see p47), the The next stop is Kiddyland (see
• A museum of the future electronics district. Enjoy a p145), a multistory toy shop.
• Majestic Rainbow Bridge tempura lunch at Tempura Take the train or subway to
Hisago (see p130). Explore the Suidobashi Station for the
• Lunch in Akihabara
area’s electronic emporiums and soaring Tokyo Dome (see p149).
• Tokyo International mangaesque buildings before Here you can watch exciting
Forum, an architectural visiting the Tokyo Anime Center baseball games (Japan’s de facto
marvel (see p47), a colorful, interactive national sport). Tickets always
space dedicated to anime culture. sell out, so book in advance.
Return to the station and take
Morning the Yamanote Line to Yurakucho, Evening
Start at the Miraikan (see p84). site of the Tokyo International Take the Toei Oedo Line to
This superbly designed Forum (see p45), one of the city’s Tochomae Station, which is
museum in Odaiba (see p77) most striking examples of post- located in the basement of the
is dedicated to science and modernist architecture. Tokyo Metropolitan Govern
the latest in cutting-edge ment Building (see pp16–17). Its
Japanese technology. Follow A Family Day
the elevated railway across
Dream Bridge to Tokyo Big
Sight (see p84), an exhibition Family of 4 allow at least
and convention center. A ¥18,000
gravity-defying structure, the • Fun while learning at NHK
center building consists of four Studio Park
inverted pyramids standing • Toys at Kiddyland
on a deceptively small base. • Thrills at Tokyo Dome
Next, take the Yurikamome
Line to Daiba Station. Stop at • Sunset at a Shinjuku
one of the outdoor cafés at skyscraper
Decks Tokyo Beach (see p85),
where the walkways look
down onto the sandy strip of Morning
Odaiba Marine Park and the Start the day at NHK Studio Park Post-modernist masterpiece, Glass Hall,
picturesque Rainbow Bridge. (see p66), where visitors can Tokyo International Forum
Wood-block print from the series Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji by Katsushika Hokusai (1760–1849)
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GREA T D A Y S IN T OK Y O 11
high-speed elevator goes up
to the 45th-floor observation
gallery for the city’s best
sunset and night views.
An Outdoors Day
Two adults allow at least
¥10,000
• A relaxing river cruise
• Stroll around the historic
Imperial Palace Garden
• A stroll in Shinjuku-Gyoen
Garden
• Shopping and a shabu-
shabu dinner Imperial Palace Garden, a pleasant retreat in the heart of the city
front of Tokyo Station (see p44)
Morning and its red brick, Queen Anne- Art Browsing
Board the Suijo Bus (river style facade.
cruise) (see p170) at Asakusa’s Two adults allow at least
Azuma Bridge. The Sumida Afternoon ¥10,000
River provides the setting for Return to the palace moat • Treasures at the Tokyo
one of the most interesting and Otemon gate, the main National Museum
concentrations of bridges entrance to the Imperial Palace • A fine art museum
in Japan. On alighting, walk Garden (see p45). The green of • A crafts museum
straight into the grounds of manicured lawns contrasts with
the Hama-rikyu Gardens gigantic stones and a ruined
(see pp42–3). This stunning, keep that give a vivid sense of
spacious, landscaped garden the grandeur of the original Morning
dating from the 1650s includes castle grounds. After, head for JR Begin this day of museums,
an elegant tea pavilion on the Yurakucho Station to Shinjuku- galleries, and cultural sights
edge of its tidal salt pond. Next, Gyoen Garden (see p179), a with the world’s largest
walk through the Ginza district cherry blossom-viewing spot. collection of Japanese art
or take the metro to Hibiya The former estate of a feudal and antiquity at the Tokyo
Park (see p45), a spacious lord, this is the closest you National Museum (see pp52–5).
Western-style park, full of shady can get to a great outdoors The cafés around nearby
arbors. Stroll along the outer experience in Tokyo. Stroll over Shinobazu Pond, with the
moat of the Imperial Palace to to Takashimaya Times Square Benten-do temple sitting
the Marunouchi Building (see and Tokyu Hands (see p140) for on an islet surrounded by
p44) and lunch at Kua’Aina, window shopping. For dinner, lotuses, are a good place for
a popular Hawai ian burger sample the superb shabu-shabu a coffee break. Take the Ginza
restaurant located right in at Nabe-zo (see p133). Line to Omotesando for the
next cultural treat, the Nezu
Museum (see p70). Finally,
lunch on authentic sushi at
Sushi Gotoku (see p134).
Afternoon
It is just two stops from
Shibuya on the Keio-Inokashira
Line to Komaba-Todaimae and
the Japan Folk Crafts Museum
(see p79), housed in a wonder-
ful 1936 residence. Return
to Shibuya Station and the
Bunkamura (see p68) cross-
cultural center, which houses
regular exhibitions. After
spending an hour or two here,
you will be well positioned for
Exhibition of flag models at the Japan Folk Crafts Museum a night out in Shibuya.
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12 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
2 Days in Tokyo striking contemporary
architecture, including Prada
Aoyama (p70). The Nezu
• Walk in the footsteps of Museum (p70) is a lovely
shoguns and emperors introduction to the arts of the
in the grounds of the region, with its serene garden
Imperial Palace and teahouse. Finish the day
• Mingle with crowds of bathed by the neon lights of
pilgrims at Senso-ji Temple Shibuya (pp68–9), accessed by
subway or a short taxi ride.
• Be amazed by the
panoramic views from
atop the Tokyo SkyTree Day 2
Morning Join the fishermen
and traders offering prayers
Day 1 at the Namiyoke Inari Jinja
Morning Join a free guided (p42), on the outskirts of Tsukiji.
tour of the grounds of the The iconic Tokyo SkyTree, the tallest Sip green tea at the Nakajima
Imperial Palace (p45); fragments building in Japan Teahouse, within the Hama-
of the old Edo Castle can still rikyu Gardens (pp42–3),
be seen here. Across the moat, duck pond, and wisteria trellises. then head to Shiba Park
discover the collection of local From beside the garden, board (p43). Admire the huge
works at the National Museum the water bus (p170) and cruise old wooden gates fronting
of Modern Art (p46) and the down the Sumida River to Zojo-ji Temple (p43) and the
nearby Crafts Gallery (p46), Asakusa (p49). iconic Tokyo Tower (p43) in
showcasing Japanese crafts. the background.
Afternoon Approach
Afternoon In the Marunouchi Senso-ji (pp58–9), Tokyo’s Afternoon Ride the subway
district (p44), the majestic most venerable Buddhist from Daimon to Asakusa.
Tokyo Station (p44) combines temple, via Nakamise-dori, an Explore this atmospheric area,
a handsome early 20th-century arcade of craft and souvenir which includes the venerable
red brick building with shops. Cross the river for the Senso-ji Temple (pp58–9) and
contemporary architecture. view from the top of the the fun Drum Museum (p56).
The designer boutiques and Tokyo SkyTree (p56). Discover shops selling realistic-
department stores of Ginza looking plastic food on
(pp40–41) are only a short stroll Kappabashi-dori (p56), then
away, as is the grand Kabuki-za 3 Days in Tokyo hop across the Sumida River
Theater (p42). Next, take the for a view of the city from
subway to buzzing Shinjuku atop the Tokyo SkyTree (p56).
(pp62–5) and visit the tiny • Savor the spiritual Shinto
bars of the Golden Gai (p63). atmosphere of Meiji Shrine Day 3
• Browse the shops Morning Pass through the
Day 2 along the tree-lined huge stone gate to reach the
Morning Start bright and early Omotesando boulevard East Garden of the Imperial
with a visit to the revamped fish • Marvel at the view atop Palace (p45), where you’ll find
market in Tsukiji (p42), then the Tokyo Tower some remains of Edo Castle.
travel a few blocks in the observation deck North of here is Kitanomaru
direction of Shiodome and Park (p46), home to the
enjoy the Hama-rikyu Gardens National Museum of Modern
(pp42–3), with its teahouse, Day 1 Art, the Crafts Gallery, and the
Morning Crunch down the Nippon Budokan performance
gravel pathway to Meiji Shrine hall. Yasukuni Shrine (p46),
(p66), the city’s principal Shinto honoring Japan’s World War II
shrine. View the stadium dead, is just north of the park.
created for the 1964 Tokyo
Olympics in Yoyogi Park (p66), Afternoon Take the subway
then browse teen fashion and to the Nihonbashi District
culture on the shopping street (p44) and pop into the grand
Takeshita-dori (p67), in the department store Mitsukoshi
vibrant Harajuku district (p67). (p44). Next, cross the elegant
Nihonbashi Bridge (p44) and
Afternoon Window-shop along continue walking toward Ginza
Omotesando (p67), where you’ll (pp40–41), dropping by the Sony
The Kabuki-za Theater, Tokyo’s main venue find the Oriental Bazaar (p67), showroom (p40) to play with
for traditional Kabuki performances perfect for souvenir shops and the latest electronic gadgets.
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GREA T D A Y S IN T OK Y O 13
5 Days in Tokyo
• Browse galleries by day
and bar-hop by night in
lively Roppongi
• View national treasures
and exquisite art at the
Tokyo National Museum
• Enjoy a relaxing soak at
the colorful Oedo Onsen
Monogatari bathhouse
Day 1
Morning Pass under the The distinctive exterior of the National Art Center, Japan’s largest exhibition space
wooden torii (gate) to reach
Meiji Shrine (p66). Later, in the Afternoon Delight in the from where a connecting line
backstreets of Harajuku, look powerful incense burned in goes to Ryogoku (p76), four stops
for the Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial front of Senso-ji Temple (pp58– away. Whether or not there is a
Museum of Art (p67), with its 9) before heading to the colorful basho (tournament) happening at
splendid collection of prints. district of Asakusa. Cruise down the National Sumo Stadium (p76),
Walk down chic Omotesando the Sumida River to the Hama- it’s still worth coming to this dis-
(p67), famous for its shopping. rikyu Gardens (pp42–3), then trict for the colossal Edo-Tokyo
walk to the skyscraper develop- Museum (p76). Next, visit Fuka-
Afternoon It’s a short subway ment of Shiodome (p43), where gawa (pp76–7), where there’s the
ride to the lively district of ADMT, the Advertising Museum Kiyosumi Teien garden (p77) and
Roppongi (pp70–71). As well Tokyo, is well worth a look. the Fukagawa Edo Museum (p76).
as shops and restaurants, there
are several art spaces here, Day 3 Afternoon Back on the west
including the Mori Art Museum Morning After taking a free side of the Sumida River, the
(p71) in Roppongi Hills, the guided tour of the Imperial Akihabara Electronics District
striking National Art Center Palace grounds (p45), head (p47) is associated with anime,
(p71), and the Suntory Museum across the northern moat to visit manga, and other aspects of
of Art (p71) in Tokyo Midtown. the National Museum of Modern Japanese pop culture. Visit the
Art (p46) and the Crafts Gallery Tokyo Anime Centre (p47), then
Day 2 (p46). Due east of the palace is the take the short walk to the Kanda
Morning Visit the world’s largest Marunouchi District (p44), home Myojin Shrine (p47). Round the
collection of Japanese art at the to the contemporary architecture day off with shopping and
Tokyo National Museum (pp52– of the Tokyo International Forum dinner in Ginza (pp40–41).
5). After, stroll around Ueno (p45) and the restored 1914
Park (pp50–51), home to the section of Tokyo Station (p44). Day 5
Shinobazu Pond, the Tosho-gu Morning Explore Yanaka (pp82–
Shrine, and the Shitamachi Afternoon Take a stroll through 3), one of the best-preserved quar-
Museum (p56). Don’t miss the the neatly clipped Koishikawa ters of early 20th-century Tokyo,
bustling Ameyoko Market Korakuen Garden (p47). A few with its shrines, temples, and
(p56), found by the raised subway stops to the west, the traditional shops. From Nippori
train lines between Ueno skyscrapers of Shinjuku (pp62–5) Station take the Yamanote Line to
and Okachimachi stations. beckon, including the Tokyo Shimbashi and change trains to
Metropolitan Government the monorail. Ride the monorail
Offices (p64), seat of the local over the Rainbow Bridge to
government; there’s a free Odaiba (p77 and pp84–5),
observation deck on the 45th location of many futuristic buil-
floor. Experience the neon-lit dings, such as the Kenzo Tange-
buzz of Kabukicho (p62) and designed Fuji TV Building (p16).
the cozy warren of drinking
dens in the Golden Gai (p63). Afternoon Learn all about
Japanese robot technology
Day 4 at the National Museum
Morning Reach Toyosu (p77) of Emerging Science and
fish market early enough to Innovation (p77). Afterwards,
view the world-famous tuna relax in the extraordinary
The vermilion Tsukenkyo Bridge in auctions, then travel one stop bathhouse at Oedo Onsen
Koishikawa Korakuen Garden on the subway to Tsukishima, Monogatari (p77).
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14 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
Wakkanai
Putting Tokyo on the Map Otoineppu
Spassk-Dal’niy
Dal’negorsk
Nayoro
Tokyo, Japan’s official capital city since 1868, lies on Abashiri
the Japanese archipelago’s largest island, Honshu. Arsen’yev Kitami
This island chain is situated to the east of mainland R U S S I A Asahikawa
Asia, in the northwest of the Pacific Ocean. Tokyo is Nemuro
located at the southern end of the Kanto Plain, on Vladivostok Kushiro
Tokyo Bay, and is bordered by Chiba, Yamanashi, Nakhodka Sapporo Obihiro
Kanagawa, and Saitama prefectures. Urahoro
Oshamanbe Tomakomai Hokkaido
Muroran
Mori
Tokyo Hakodate
Kita
Arakawa
Nerima Toshima Aomori
Hirosaki
Bunkyo
Nakano Taito Kuji
Sumida
Shinjuku Morioka
Chiyoda Akita
CHUO EXPRESSWAY Shibuya TOKYO Chuo Koto S ea of J apan Sakata Yokote Honshu
Setagaya Minato (East Sea) Ishinomaki
TOM EI EXPRESSWAY Meguro Narita Tsuruoka Yamagata Sendai
Sado Niigata
Island Fukushima
0 kilometers 3
Shingawa Aizu-Wakamatsu
0 miles 3
Kashiwazaki
Taejon Toyama Nagano
Takasaki Utsunomiya
S O U T H Taegu Kanazawa Mito Oarai
K O R E A Fukui Chino
TOKYO
See map above
Tottori Kofu Kawasaki
Matsue Maizuru Tsuruga
Sunch’on Pusan Gifu Yokohama Chiba
Nagoya
Himeji Kyoto Toyohashi Shizuoka
Kobe
Hiroshima Kurashiki Okayama Osaka
Yamaguchi Takamatsu Nara Ise
Shimonoseki
Tokuyama Tokushima Wakayama
Fukuoka
Matsuyama
Kochi Tanabe P acif ic
Kurume Ocean
Oita Shikoku
Shanghai, Nagasaki
Qingdao Kumamoto
Yatsushiro Nobeoka
East Kyushu
China Sea Sendai Miyazaki
Kagoshima Shibushi
Okinawa Okinawa
014-015_EW_Tokyo.indd 14 12/09/16 11:27 am
PUT TING T OK Y O ON THE M AP 15
Wakkanai
Otoineppu
Spassk-Dal’niy Dal’negorsk
Nayoro
Abashiri
Arsen’yev Kitami
R U S S I A
Asahikawa
Nemuro
Vladivostok
Sapporo Kushiro
Nakhodka Obihiro Urahoro
Oshamanbe Tomakomai Hokkaido
Muroran
Mori
Hakodate
Aomori
Hirosaki
Key
Kuji
Expressway
Morioka Main road
Akita
Shinkansen (bullet train) line
S ea of J apan Yokote International border
Ferry route
(East Sea) Sakata Honshu
Ishinomaki
Tsuruoka
Yamagata Sendai
Sado Niigata
Island Fukushima
Aizu-Wakamatsu
Kashiwazaki
Taejon Toyama Nagano
Takasaki Utsunomiya
S O U T H Taegu Kanazawa Mito Oarai
K O R E A Fukui Chino Southeast and East Asia
TOKYO
See map above MONGOLIA RUSSIA
Tottori Kofu Kawasaki
Matsue Maizuru Tsuruga
Sunch’on Pusan Gifu Yokohama Chiba
Nagoya N. KOREA
Himeji Kyoto Toyohashi Shizuoka CHI N A S. KOREA JAPAN
Kobe
Hiroshima Kurashiki Okayama Osaka Tokyo
Yamaguchi Takamatsu Nara Ise
Shimonoseki MYANMAR
Tokuyama Tokushima Wakayama LAOS TAIWAN
Fukuoka P acif ic
Matsuyama THAILAND
Kochi Tanabe P acif ic CAMBODIA VIETNAM Ocean
PHILIPPINES
Kurume Ocean
Oita Shikoku BRUNEI
MALAYSIA
Shanghai, Nagasaki SINGAPORE
Qingdao Kumamoto
Yatsushiro Nobeoka INDONESIA
PAPUA
East Kyushu 0 kilometers 200 TIMOR NEW GUINEA SOLOMON
EAST
China Sea Sendai Miyazaki ISLANDS
0 miles 100 AUSTRALIA
Kagoshima Shibushi
Okinawa Okinawa
For keys to symbols see back flap
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16 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
Architecture in Tokyo
Tokyoites have been obliged to rebuild their city so many times
that what meets the eye is a mishmash of architectural styles.
First impressions suggest chaos, but there is a dynamism,
perhaps even a hidden order, to Tokyo’s macramé of older
wood and mortar buildings and its hi-tech modernity. From
the splendid futu ristic creations of Odaiba (see p77) to the
triangulated rooftops and glass sheets of Tadao Ando’s 21_21
Design Sight in Roppongi (see pp70–71), visitors sense perpetual
renewal. In the midst of innovation are traditional structures,
but Tokyo’s heart, one suspects, is firmly in the future.
Prada Aoyama, the dazzling
creation of Jacques Herzog
Shinjuku Skyscraper District and Pierre de Meuron, has
Shinjuku district in Tokyo epitomizes the modern Japanese tinted, diamond-shaped
outer panels which reveal
urban labyrinth. Most skyscrapers are clustered to the west a stylish interior.
of Shinjuku Station. Built of materials such as aluminum,
steel, and concrete, the buildings use flexible-frame
technologies to withstand powerful earthquakes.
NTT Docomo Building, 800-ft
Tokyo Opera City Tower is an (240-m) high, holds the title of Tokyo Metropolitan
impressive 768-ft (234-m) high the tallest four-faced clock tower Government Building
octagonal buil ding with 54 floors. in the world. Two lacks the height
of its bigger namesake
but has similar post-
modernist angles.
Shinjuku Park Tower, with
its three casca ding towers,
designed by Kenzo Tange,
blends with the skyline.
Asahi Super Dry Hall, an St Mary’s Cathedral, an early Fuji-TV Building, another Kenzo
amusing cartoon-like building, Kenzo Tange masterpiece, is Tange creation and a signature
was built by French architect covered in sparkling sheets building of Odaiba, is a design
Philippe Starck in 1989 for the of stainless steel, designed to marvel of girders, sky corridors,
Asahi beer company. symbolize the light of Christ. and a titanium-clad sphere.
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A POR TR AIT OF T OK Y O 17
Traditional Architecture
Traditional Japanese architecture is based on the use of wood, combined with interiors consisting
of paper screens, paper and wood doors, and tatami mat flooring (see p110). In Tokyo’s older temples
and shrines, architectural aesthetics survive in the polished wood
floors, ceramic roof tiles, movable partitions, and the
sliding panels and opaque screens that create an
interaction between the exterior and interior. Gokoku-ji
temple (see p75), which dates from 1681, remains gloriously
intact, as does the even older Sanmon gate at Zojo-ji
temple (see p43). Though a post-war reconstruction,
the Meiji shrine (see p66), located at the centre of a sacred
forest, keeps faith with the pure, austere lines and aesthetics of
traditional Shinto architecture.
Famous Sanmon gate, Zojo-ji temple
Tokyo Metropolitan
Government Building, with The Olympic Pavilion’s
its stunning walls of granite sweeping curved roof
and digital-like windows, of tensile steel helped
towers above the Citizen’s Kenzo Tange to win
Plaza. It has two observa- architecture’s most
tion decks on the 45th floor, coveted award, the
north and south, which prestigious 1987
offer great panoramic views.
Pritzker Prize.
Sompo Japan
Sumitomo Building has an
impressive atrium running the Building
entire height of the building.
Tokyo International Forum, one of Tokyo’s architectural Aoyama Technical College, a sci-fi montage
marvels designed by New York-based architect Raphael of posts, lightning rods, poles, and capsules
Viñoly, has a soaring 197-ft (60-m) high glass atrium, by contemporary architect Makoto Sei
crisscrossed by walkways and curving walls resembling Watanabe, is an example of just how far
a crystal ship. Tokyo can go into the architectural beyond.
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18 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
Japanese Traditional Theater
Four major types of traditional theater are still performed
regularly in Japan – Noh, Kyogen, Kabuki, and Bunraku (see
pp150–51). Originating in Shinto rites, Noh was first performed
by Kan’ami Kiyotsugu (1333–84) and developed by his son
Zeami. Adopted by the daimyo (feudal lords), Noh became more
ritualistic and ceremonial. Gradually its farcical elements were
confined to a separate form, Kyogen. By the 17th century, people A Noh play is being
wanted a more compre hensible and entertaining form of performed for the imperial
drama, and Kabuki evolved from Noh, starting in Kyoto. A form household in this 1863
of puppet theater, Bun raku, was aimed at the general populace. wood-block print by Taiso
Yoshitoshi.
Slow rhythmic movements, subtle
The backdrop is a single pine tree, expressions, and sonorous music
epitomizing the simplicity of Noh staging. characterize a Noh performance.
Noh Musicians playing Noh actors may be
An austere, restrained, and powerful theatrical traditional drums and men or women but
the majority are men.
form, Noh is performed on a bare, three-sided flutes sit at the back
of the stage and
cypress-wood stage roofed like a shrine, with an accompany the actors.
entrance ramp to one side. One or two masked
characters appear at a time. Their slow, choreo-
graphed actions (kata) are performed to music.
Kyogen evolved from comic interludes
devised as relief from the demanding
nature of Noh. A down-to-earth, collo-
quial form, its characters highlight
human foibles and frailties. Masks are
rarely used, and costumes are plain. The
actors wear distinctive yellow tabi socks.
Noh costumes are
Noh masks are worn by the leading usually richly deco rated
characters; the greatest masks and heavy. Many layers
are classified as National Treasures. are worn to make the
The mask on the right represents a actors seem larger and
samurai, and on the far right, a demon. more imposing.
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A POR TR AIT OF T OK Y O 19
Bunraku
Bunraku puppets are about 1.2 m (4 ft) tall with carved wooden
heads, movable hands, and elaborate costumes. The main
puppeteer wears traditional formal dress;
his two assistants, one on each side, are
clothed in black. Shamisen (see p151)
music accompanies the action, and a
nar rator both tells the story and speaks
all the parts. Many Kabuki plays were
Kabuki actors were popular originally written for pupp ets; Bunraku
subjects for Edo-era wood-block has in turn borrowed a number of
prints. The tradition can still be Kabuki dramas.
seen in this modern poster Bunraku puppet with his manipulator
advertising a Kabuki play.
Costumes and wigs are highly The pine trees on Kabuki stage
Stage right is where less important elaborate, indicating the status backdrops are a reference to its
characters are usually located. and personality of each character. evolution from Noh.
Kabuki Stage sets often Stage left is usually
occupied by characters of
Kabuki is flamboyant and colorful with a large incorporate special effects high rank or importance.
including trapdoors,
stage and cast. The major actors are stars, often revolving sections, and
from famous acting dynasties. Elaborate make-up overhead cables for flying.
replaced Noh masks, and a curtain allowed set
changes. The musicians and chorus sit behind The hanamichi
screens on either side or on stage. (flower path) is a
raised walkway
running from the
stage right through
the audience and is
used for dramatic
entrances and exits.
Although Kabuki was
Aragoto, or “rough-style” acting, founded by a woman,
is used in certain plays by male Izumo no Okuni, female actors
characters who move in exaggerated, were soon banned as immoral.
choreographed ways and wear stylized All actors are now male, and
makeup. Eye and facial movements are female roles are played by
crucial to an actor’s success. highly skilled onnagata.
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20 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
Sumo and the Martial Arts
Now more of a professional sport than a martial art, sumo
traces its origins back 2,000 years to Shinto harvest rites,
and retains strong links with Shinto in many of its rituals.
There are six sumo tournaments in Japan every year (see
p148), broadcast live on TV and followed enthusiastically.
Training is a way of life for sumo wrestlers, and if a tourna
ment is not on, it may be possible to watch practice
sessions. Martial arts are known as budo, or the “martial
way.” They aim to cultivate bal ance, control, speed, and Sumo wrestlers were a highly
accuracy in a spiritual, mental, and physical sense. Kendo popular subject for Edo-period
and kyudo, the least changed since the days of the wood-block prints.
samurai, are seen as the purest of the martial arts.
Throwing salt to
purify the ring and the
fight to come is part of
a complex pre-match
ritual that the wrestlers
undertake. They also
stamp, clap, and raise
their hands before
crouching down in
front of their opponent
ready to start.
The gyoji (referee) wears
traditional court costume
and uses a fan to signal
when to begin.
Sumo Wrestling
Despite their size – there are no weight
restrictions – sumo wrestlers (rikishi) move
quickly and with agility, and so matches are
often short (10 seconds or so). The loser is the
first to touch the ground with any part of his
body, except the soles of his feet, or to step out
of, or be pushed from, the ring. The referee
declares the winner.
Grand champions (yokozuna) perform pre-match
rituals wearing a richly decorated ceremonial apron
and a white hemp-rope belt hung with folded paper
(as seen at Shinto shrines). This champion is per-
forming shiko, lifting his leg and stamping his foot
to banish evil spirits and intimidate his opponent.
A referee pours an offering of sake onto the ring as
part of the dedication ceremony before a tourna ment.
The ring is a platform of clay edged by a square of
sunken rice-straw bales, with an inner ring (where
the match is fought) also marked by sunken bales.
020-021_EW_Tokyo.indd 20 12/09/16 11:27 am
A POR TR AIT OF T OK Y O 21
Banners announce a Martial Arts
sumo tournament – here Originally developed as traditional arts of war
at the National Sumo by the samurai, the martial arts have evolved
Stadium in Tokyo (see into forms of austere discipline (shugyo) aimed
p149). Each tournament at spiritual improvement; some are also com
lasts 15 days. The lower-
ranking wrestlers fight petitive sports. The modern forms of kendo and
early in the day, while kyudo trace their origins to methods practiced
higher-ranking ones in Japanese antiquity.
appear from mid-
afternoon onward. Kendo means the “way
of the sword.” Origi nating
The wrestlers’ Only 48 winning techniques from samurai fencing, kendo
hair is oiled and are commonly used, but many now uses bamboo swords.
fastened into a more have been identified. Contestants wear extensive
topknot (mage). padding and protection. In
a match, points are gained
for hitting the head, torso,
forearm, or throat.
Kyudo, or the “way of
the bow,” has close
associations with Zen
Buddhism. Although
accuracy in hitting
a target is important,
the emphasis is also
on concentration of
mind and body.
Judo developed from
jujitsu. A system of self-
defense, it is well established
as a sport in which
throwing and grappling
techniques are used to
subdue an opponent.
A loincloth (mawashi) is worn for bouts,
along with a thin belt (sagari) hung with Karate (“empty hand”) reached Japan
threads similar to those seen at Shinto shrines.
in 1922 from Okinawa. A form of self-
defense as well as spiritual and
physical training, it has become a
sport, consisting of explosive yet
controlled kicks, punches, or
strikes, and blocking moves.
Aikido – the “way of
harmonious spirit” – uses
an opponent’s strength
The ring stands under a suspended roof and speed against them.
resembling that of a Shinto shrine. A different- Training unites spiritual
colored tassel hangs from each corner of the awareness and physical
roof, representing the four seasons. flexibility.
020-021_EW_Tokyo.indd 21 12/09/16 11:27 am
022-023_EW_Tokyo.indd 22 12/09/16 11:27 am
INTRODUCING T OK Y O 23
THE HISTORY
OF JAPAN
From the origins of the Japanese race to its military behavior in World War II, Japan’s
history is still subject to conjecture. What is indisputable is that the people of this
archipelago were able to avail themselves of the fruits of continental civilization
even as their isolation protected them from attack. As a result, Japan has one
of the most distinct of all the many Chinese-influenced cultures in Asia.
During glacial epochs when the sea queen of Yamatai, to the Chinese
level was low, Japan’s first inhabitants kingdom of Wei in 239, but Yamatai’s
may have reached the archipelago location is open to debate. Aristo cratic
overland from Sakhalin and Siberia, orders emerged, including that of the
China and Korea, or the Okinawa emperor, said to be descended from
islands. Crude stone tools found at the sun goddess Amaterasu. Figures
sites across Honshu, Japan’s main of high rank were buried in massive
island, may date back 40,000 years. kofun (tumuli), along with clay sculptures,
Recent discoveries posit the armor, mirrors, and jewelry.
emergence of the hunting and By the late 6th century, tribes that
gathering society known as Jomon had migrated to the fertile lands of
around 14,500 BC. Jomon pottery is the Yamato Plain in Western Honshu
among the world’s oldest and includes were engaged in a power struggle
vessels and figurines, particularly of over the intro duction of Buddhism.
women. Mounds of shells and other Prince Shotoku, appointed regent
evidence indicate that the diet included by Empress Suiko in 593, helped seal
fish, shellfish, deer, wild pigs, and wild victory for the pro-Buddhist camp.
plants and seeds. In the Kanto Plain (near In 701, the Taiho code, a penal and
Tokyo), the Jomon culture in its later administrative system based on the
stages included village-like groupings. Chinese model, was in place. Founded
Rice agriculture and bronze, iron, in 710 on the Yamato Plain, the city of
and other crafts are believed to have Nara became the grand diocese of
reached Japan via Korea during the Buddhism and one of Asia’s most
Yayoi period. The Yayoi people spread splendid cities in its 74-year spell as
from the southern island of Kyushu to Japan’s first capital. With the completion
Honshu over time, pushing the earlier of the Man’yoshu, the earliest known
inhabitants north. Chinese histories Japan ese poetry, in 759, the culture began
record a visit by an envoy of Himiko, to establish a clear voice of its own.
Periods at a Glance 300 BC–AD 300 Continental methods 710 Heijo-kyo (Nara) made capital
Jomon 14,500–300 BC of farming, metalworking, pottery, and
Yayoi 300 BC–AD 300 other skills reach southwestern Japan via 701 Taiho code put in place, the basis
Kofun/Asuka 300–710 Korea, and spread through the islands of the first Japanese legal system
Hakuho 645–710
Nara 710–794
Heian 794–1185 AD 1 200 400 600
Kamakura 1185–1333
Muromachi 1333–1568 239 Himiko, queen 587 Power 712 Kojiki,
Momoyama 1568–1600 of Yamatai, sends struggle over Japan’s
Tokugawa (Edo) 1600–1868 an envoy to the oldest
Meiji 1868–1912 kingdom of Wei introduction historical
Taisho 1912–1926 in China of Buddhism
Showa 1926–1989 Yayoi from China account,
Heisei 1989–present earthenware complete
Detail from a 16th-century screen painting, showing customs month-by-month in the Momoyama period
022-023_EW_Tokyo.indd 23 12/09/16 11:27 am
24 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
Court Life and the Tale of Genji armies of warrior-monks.
Ironically, Buddhism’s
Court life in the Heian period focused on romance, aesthetic
pursuits, and fastidious observation of precedent and ritual, as abhorrence of killing fed the
docu mented in the Pillow Book nobility’s contempt for the
of court lady Sei Shonagon in the farmer-warriors – the early
late 10th century. The Tale of Genji,
written in the early 11th century samurai – on the frontier,
by Sei Shona gon’s rival, Murasaki who bat tled the indigenous
Shi kibu, a court lady of the Fujiwara people and each other. After
clan, is possibly the world’s oldest
novel. It depicts the loves and 1100, the court could no
sor rows of a fictitious prince, Genji, longer control infighting,
and, after he dies, the amorous
pur suits of a man whom Genji and tensions rose between
thought was his son. The story has two clans of farmer-warriors
been illustrated in countless scrolls.
Tale of Genji scroll from the northeast – the
Taira and the Minamoto. By
Heian Period 1160, the ruthless Taira Kiyomori was the
The Fujiwara family and Emperor Kammu most powerful man in Japan. But the
built a new capital in Western Minamoto, led by the brothers
Honshu known as Heian-kyo, Yoshit sune and Yoritomo,
now Kyoto, in 794. The new fought back to defeat the
system, also based on Chinese Taira and establish the first
models, held that the land and military shogun ate at Kamakura
people were the property of the Heian-period fan (see pp92–5) in 1185.
emperor. Tax-exempt status was
granted to Buddhist institutions, large Kamakura Shogunate
landholders, and settlers who would Deliberately basing his government far
expand the state’s frontiers. Meanwhile, the from the imperial court in the village of
Fujiwara clan gained influence by acting Kamakura, Minamoto no Yoritomo carefully
as regents, and intermarriage with the crafted a system that bene fited his bushi
imperial family. A pattern emerged in (warrior) peers and brought 150 years of
which emperors would abdicate, name a relative peace and stability. Yoritomo’s
younger successor, enter a monastery, then direct heirs were shoguns only in name,
exercise power from behind the scenes. however, as they were dominated by
Buddhism’s immense influence hereditary re gents from the military Hojo
continued as proponents such as the family of Kamakura. The Hojo assumed the
Japanese Buddhist monk Saicho adapt ed preroga tives of power while granting the
it, launching hundreds of separate imperial institution and nobility the
movements and sects. Powerful tem ples privilege of signing off on policy.
grew militant in faceoffs with other The Tale of the Heike, a chronicle of the war
temples and the government, creating between the Taira and Minamoto clans, was
Toji temple
794 Heian-kyo 823 Kukai, leading 1087 Emperor
(Kyoto) becomes proponent of Shingon 985 Genshin writes Shirakawa abdicates
capital, which it Buddhism, appointed tract promoting Pure- and becomes first
remains until 1868 head of Toji temple Land Buddhism cloistered emperor
800 900 1000 1100
801 Warriors sent
to Northern 866 First
Honshu to battle Fujiwara regent 940 First uprising c.1000 Court lady
Ezo tribes assumes post by a warrior Murasaki Shikibu
member of the writes Tale of Genji
Taira clan
024-025_EW_Tokyo.indd 24 12/09/16 11:27 am
THE HIST OR Y OF JAP AN 25
Portuguese in Kyushu – the “Southern Barbarians” who introduced firearms and Christianity to Japan
first recited to biwa (lute) accompaniment With leaders engaged in power struggles,
at this time. Temples and works of art were chaos and famine were common. The
created in Kamakura, reflecting Yoritomo’s nadir was reached during the Onin War
warrior ideals of stoicism, self discipline, (1467–77), when arson and loot ing
frugality, and loyalty. Zen Buddhism as destroyed much of Kyoto.
imported from China was popular with The Muromachi period, named for the
the samurai, while the Pure-Land, True- Kyoto district where the Ashikagas built
Pure-Land, and Nichiren Buddhist sects their palace, was a time of craven ambition
promoted salvation to the common people. that unleashed every class in society to
Mongol invasions were repelled vie for advantage. Warfare, once the
twice in the 13th century, but exclusive business of samurai, now
weakened the resources and involved armies of footsoldiers
command of Kamakura. The end (ashigaru) recruited from the
came in 1333, when the Ashikaga peasantry, who could hope for
clan, led by Takauji, toppled the promotion based on success
Kamakura shogunate. How ever, Muromachi-period in the battlefield.
the power systems instigated by sword guard In 1542, a trio of Portuguese
Yoritomo and the Hojo influenced from a shipwrecked junk emerged
Japanese life for five more centuries. in Tanegashima, an island off Kyushu, and
introduced firearms to Japan. Francis
Muromachi Shogunate Xavier, a founding mem ber of the Society
With military power back with the imperial of Jesus, established a Jesuit mission on
court in Kyoto, arts such as Noh drama and Kyushu in 1549. The contact with
the tea ceremony flowered under the Europeans further destabilized the
patronage of Sho gun Ashikaga Yoshimasa. political situation and set the stage
However, a succession dispute split the for the first of the great unifiers, Oda
court into southern and northern factions. Nobunaga, who entered Kyoto in 1568.
c.1400 Noh
1180–85 Minamoto theatrical form
clan defeats the Taira flourishes under 1467 Devastating Onin War
and establishes Great Buddha statue Shogun Ashikaga begins. Vast sections of Kyoto are
Kamakura shogunate at Kamakura burned over the next decade
1100 1200 1300 1400 1500
1160 Ascendant Taira 1281 Second Mongol invasion 1560–80 Oda Nobunaga victorious
clan under Taira in battles for hegemony of Japan
Kiyomori suppresses its 1274 First Mongol invasion
rivals, the Minamoto, 1242 Emperor Shijo dies without naming 1428 Peasant uprising in Kyoto
and dominates court life an heir, setting off succession dispute
1401 Formal relations with China reestablished
024-025_EW_Tokyo.indd 25 12/09/16 11:27 am
26 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
Ishiyama Hongan-ji, a nearly impregnable
tem ple fortress in today’s Osaka in Western
Honshu. The temple had been the power
base of the Buddhist True-Pure-Land sect.
By 1582, when he was forced to com mit
suicide by a treasonous vassal, Nobunaga
was in control of 30 of Japan’s 68 provinces.
Nobunaga’s deputy, a warrior of humble
birth named Toyotomi Hideyoshi,
continued the work of unification,
launching epic campaigns that brought
Shikoku (1585), Kyushu (1587), the Kanto
region (1590), and Northern Honshu (1591)
under his control. He followed up by
destroying many of the castles and forts
belonging to potential rivals, confiscating
weapons belonging to peasants, and
devising a system in which peasants held
their own small plots and paid a fixed tax
Screen depicting the Battle of Nagashino in 1575, won by Oda directly to the central government.
Nobunaga’s 3,000 musketeers In his later years, Hideyoshi ordered
two unsuccessful invasions of Korea and
Momoyama Period persecuted the Portuguese missionaries
After Japan had been racked by over a and their Japanese converts. Like Oda
century of debilitating, inconclusive warfare, Nobunaga, however, Hideyoshi never
Oda Nobunaga, who rose through military claimed the title of shogun but became
ranks in the provin ces, set out to unify the obsessed with ensuring the
nation under his rule. From 1568–76 perpetua tion of his line
Nobunaga defeated rival warlord after his death. Two years
Azai Nagamasa; burned down after his death in 1598,
Kyoto’s main temple complex, however, dissen sion among
where militant monks had long his re tainers led to the
challenged the court and their Battle of Sekigahara, in
Buddhist rivals; drove Ashikaga Momoyama-period detail which Tokugawa Ieyasu
Yoshiaki into exile; and deployed at Nishi Hongan-ji, Kyoto emerged victorious.
3,000 musketeers to massacre the
Takeda forces at the Battle of Nagashino. The Tokugawa Shogunate
In 1580, in his last great military exploit, Named shogun by the emperor in 1603,
Nobunaga obtained the surrender of Ieyasu split the population into rigidly
1689 Haiku
Osaka Castle 1635 All foreign commerce confined to poet Basho 1707 Last
the artificial island of Dejima in Nagasaki departs on eruption
Bay. From 1641, only Dutch and Chinese his journey of Mount
1615 Siege of Osaka Castle allowed access to the north Fuji
1600 1625 1650 1675 1700
1590 Hideyoshi
controls all Japan 1614 Christianity banned 1657 Meireki fire Statue of 1703 Suicide
in Edo kills over of the 47 ronin
1597 Violent 1600 Tokugawa Ieyasu wins battle of 100,000 Basho
persecution of Sekigahara, achieves hegemony over Japan
Christians in Nagasaki
026-027_EW_Tokyo.indd 26 12/09/16 11:27 am
THE HIST OR Y OF JAP AN 27
defined hereditary classes. To end turf Clavell’s 1975 book Shogun). During this
wars, samurai were forbidden to own land time, the English, Dutch, Portuguese,
and could reside only within cer tain Spanish, and New World governments
quarters of castle towns. Farmers were made overtures to the shogunate on trade.
allotted small plots, which they had to However, the increasingly xenophobic
cultivate. Artisans Tokugawa regime restricted
formed the next class, all foreign shipping to
merchants the bottom. Nagasaki on the island of
Movement between Kyushu from 1635; only
regions was regulated, Chinese, Dutch, Korean,
and families or whole and Southeast Asian
villages could be pun ished for traders were allowed from 1641.
crimes by their kin or neighbors. This heralded 200 years of isolation
The daimyo or lords who from the rest of the world.
governed regions, now subject to Fireman official’s While Kyoto remained the
Tokugawa authority, were shuffled garment in Edo official capital through the Tokugawa
to dif ferent regions if their service period, Edo eclipsed it in size and
was not approved. After 1635, the daimyo was probably the largest city in the world
and their samurai retinue were forced to by around 1700. Edo also hosted an
reside every other year in the city of Edo explosion of arts such as Kabuki and
(Tokyo), the new seat of the shogunate. Bunraku theater (see pp18–19) and the
ukiyo-e works (see p57) of Utamaro,
Isolation and the Rise of Edo Sharaku, Hokusai, and Hiroshige. Patrons
William Adams, an Englishman who included the merchant class and samurai.
reached Japan on a Dutch ship in 1600, In 1853 Commodore Matthew Perry
served Ieyasu in various capacities over the steamed into Edo Bay with four US vessels
next two decades (as por trayed in James to challenge Japan’s refusal to enter into
international rela tions. Weakened
by unrest from within its own and
other ranks, the shogunate could
only accede to Perry’s demands.
Samurai from the Satsuma,
Choshu, and Tosa do mains in
Kyushu, Western Honshu, and
Shikoku became the driving
force behind a successful
restoration of imperial power
and a reorganization of the
Early map of Edo, which outgrew Kyoto under the Tokugawa shogunate government carried out in 1868.
1707 Last 1831 Hokusai’s
eruption 1748 Kabuki drama A Hokusai Thirty-Six Views
of Mount Chushingura debuts, based view of of Mount Fuji
Fuji on the suicide by 47 ronin Mount Fuji published
1725 1750 1775 1800 1825
1782 Tenmei Famine
1703 Suicide 1723 Love suicides (joshi), spurred claims as many as 1853 Commodore Matthew Perry
of the 47 ronin by rigid customs and hierachy 1 million lives anchors in Edo Bay; Kanagawa
during the Edo period, reach a peak Treaty between US and Japan
signed the following year
026-027_EW_Tokyo.indd 27 12/09/16 11:27 am
28 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
but showed that greater military strength
would be needed for the nation to contend
as an imperial power equal with the West.
By the turn of the century, the trans
formation to an industrial economy, with
textiles the chief export, was well under
way. The RussoJapanese war of 1904–5
Wood-block print of Sino-Japanese War of 1894–5 ended with Japan aggrandizing its claims
to Korea, which was annexed in 1910,
Meiji Restoration and southern Manchuria in China.
The Meiji Emperor (1852–1912) was During the final decade of the Meiji
16 when the restoration of imperial Emperor’s reign, the home ministry
rule was declared on January 3, 1868. stressed reverence for the emperor, the
Tokyo was swiftly made the new capital. family, the Shinto religion, and military
A new centralized system pressed for and national heroes. Suppression of
changes to render Japan capable of groups seen as enemies of the state
competing with the West. Military became the government’s prerogative.
conscription and the elimi nation of the
hereditary samurai class were undertaken War with China and World War II
to create a modern fighting force, provoking The attempt to transform Japan from a
furious resis tance from samurai in 1874–6. feudal to a modern industrial state caused
Daimyo domains were gradually trans severe dislocation. By 1929, when the stock
formed into prefectures, although daimyo market collapsed, resentment against those
and court nobles lingered in the form of a who had prospered from exports intensified.
new class called kazoku. Universal literacy Young officers, chafing to restore national
became a goal. By 1884, tax and banking pride, began assassinating rich moderates,
reforms, and an industrial strat while militarists and oligarchs
egy aimed at exports were in the government believed
underway. The Meiji Consti that seizing land from China
tution of 1889, promulgated and Russia would secure
by the emperor, allowed the raw materials and improve
military direct access to the national security. At the
throne while creating a house same time, a panAsianist
of peers and a lower house. movement, which saw Japan
Following disputes over on a mission to lead Asia out
control of the Korean of servility, took the Chinese
peninsula, the SinoJapanese resistance to Japanese
War of 1894–5 ended with The Meiji Emperor (1852–1912), domination as an insult.
Japan’s victory over China, first emperor of modern Japan By 1937, the country was
1895 China cedes territory to Japan, ending war. Russia, France,
1889 Imperial constitution and Germany force Japan to relinquish the territory
1868 Meiji Restoration; promulgated
Edo is renamed Tokyo 1910 Korea becomes 1932 Young naval officers assassinate
and made capital Japanese colony prime minister and attempt coup
1865 1880 1895 1910 1925
1890 1905 Treaty of 1933 Japan
Imperial 1904 Russo Portsmouth ends withdraws from
Diet con Japanese war. Korea be comes a
1869 Colonization of war begins League of Nations
Hokkaido begins venes for Japanese protectorate
first time 1923 Great Kanto
Diet Building 1894 First SinoJapanese war begins Earthquake
028-029_EW_Tokyo.indd 28 12/09/16 11:23 am
THE HIST OR Y OF JAP AN 29
the Japanese economy. Industrial
production surged as the average
household wanted to own a TV, washing
machine, and refrigerator.
In 1960, protests against the ratification of
the US-Japan Security Treaty rocked Japan.
The prime minister resigned. His successors
focused on economic growth. By the time
Aftermath of the bombing of Tokyo in 1945 of the 1964 Tokyo Olympics, annual growth
was around 10 per cent and rising. Prosperity
embroiled in a war with China that further based on exports such as cars, electronics,
estranged it from the rest of the world. and technological products made Japan one
When the US cut off Japanese access of the world’s richest nations.
to oil, Tokyo made the desperate decision to The effects of the recession of the 1990s –
seize Pacific territory in a sneak unemployment, plummeting land
attack on Pearl Harbor, Hawaii, in values, and deflation – were further
December 1941. A few months conflated by the breakdown of
later, Japan took Southeast Asia. the family and rising crime. These
By 1944, American bombers days fashions, styles, and tastes are
were decimating Japanese cities, magnifying Japan’s presence in
but the Japanese army was the world, and Japanese popular
determined not to surrender, culture ranks second in global
opting instead for a suicidal Akihito, who was made terms only to that of the United
defensive strategy. In August emperor in 1989 States. As ever, Tokyo is the engine
1945, the US dropped atomic driving much of this change.
bombs on Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and On March 11, 2011, a devastating
the Soviet Union entered the war in the earthquake and subsequent tsunami
Pacific. Emperor Hirohito ordered the caused massive destruction in parts of
cabinet to sue for peace. northeastern Japan. Despite suffering major
damage and loss of life, Japan is recovering.
Japan Since 1945
After World War II, the Allied Occupation
Force began arriving as millions of homeless
Japanese returned to bombed-out cities.
The emperor renounced his divine status;
land reform was implemented; and war-
crimes trials were soon underway.
By 1952, the occupation had ended and
the Korean war had turned into a boon for Tokyo skyline as seen from the Sumida River
1937 Second Sino-Japanese War begins; 140,000 Chinese massacred in Nanjing 1997 Economic
recession in 2014 Yōichi
1945 Atomic bombs dropped 1995 Great Hanshin Earthquake Southeast Asia, Masuzoe elected
on Hiroshima and Nagasaki; in Kobe; fanatical cult releases spreading to Japan Tokyo Governor
Japan surrenders sarin gas on Tokyo subway
1925 1940 1955 1970 1985 2000 2015
1964 Tokyo Olympics; first “bullet
train”; government begins to
promote computer industry 2011 Great East Japan
Prayers of 2008 Economy surges; earthquake and
a soldier
1923 Great Kanto 1989 Emperor Hirohito (Showa) Tokyo undergoes tsunami; Fukushima
Earthquake 1941 Japan enters World War II dies; Akihito is new emperor construction boom nuclear disaster
028-029_EW_Tokyo.indd 29 12/09/16 11:23 am
30 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
TOKYO THROUGH THE YEAR
The seasons are closely observed in In addition to seasonal matsuri and
Japan. Many ritual observances are assorted events, each suburb in the city
founded on traditional rural matsuri also organizes its own festivals, more
(festivals). There is nothing solemn so during the summer months, when
about these events, however, because dancers in kimonos and Japanese drum
hard-working, hard-playing Tokyoites groups perform, and clear skies explode
enjoy nothing more than a good festival. with spectacular fireworks. In contrast,
The festivals, sports events, trade shows, the winter months are devoted to travel,
flower exhibitions, and blossom-viewing especially around the New Year period,
all add up to a full cultural calendar. and religious ceremonies.
court dances, yabu same May
Spring
(horseback archery), and Kodomo no hi (Children’s Day,
Spring in Japan is when the music performances. May 5). Focusing largely on
new economic year begins, Hana Matsuri (Buddha’s boys, families fly colorful koi
students graduate, and Birthday, Apr 8). Devotees pour nobori (carp streamers),
projects are launched. While sweet tea over a small image symbolizing strength and
March and April can be rainy, of the Buddha to honor determination.
May is usually sublime. The his birth. Services are Summer Sumo Tournament
Japanese tend to value spring held at some temples. (mid-May). This 15-day event
for its transience and the Azalea Festival is held in the Kokugikan hall
cherry, more than any (Apr 10–May 5). in Ryogoku.
other flower, embodies Held at various Kanda Matsuri (Sat & Sun
the imper manence venues, the before May 15, alternate odd-
of life. However, there best known numbered years). One of the
is nothing mournful being Nezu city’s three big festivals. Floats
about the vibrant Shrine, and mikoshi (portable shrines)
cherry blossom- where parade through the streets
viewing parties countless around Kanda Myojin Shrine.
held at parks bushes grow along Sanja Matsuri (3rd Fri–Sun in
throughout the city. an embankment. May). A wild and heady mix
AnimeJapan (late of dance, music, ritual, and
March Mar or early Apr). the jostling of heavy portable
Hina Matsuri (Girls’ One of the world’s shrines, near Asakusa Jinja.
Day and Doll Festival, largest anime Design Festa (mid–late May).
Mar 3). Dolls dressed events for fans Asia’s biggest art event.
in traditional Heian- of animation and Thousands of people set
period imperial Bugaku dancer, Meiji manga. It is held up displays at this two-day
costumes are Shrine Festival at Tokyo Big Sight. fair at Tokyo Big Sight.
displayed in homes
and public places.
Golden Dragon Dance (Mar 18).
This colorful event takes place
thrice a day at Senso-ji temple
in Asakusa.
April
Hanami (Cherry blossom-
viewing, late Mar to Apr). A
glorious spring rite celebrated
wherever there are cherry
trees, but most famously in
Chidorigafuchi, Ueno Park,
and Sumida Park.
Meiji Shrine Spring Festival
(Apr 29–May 3). An extensive
compen dium of traditional
cultural events attended by
devotees, including color ful Visitors at the resplendent Azalea Festival
030-033_EW_Tokyo.indd 30 12/09/16 11:27 am
T OK Y O THROUGH THE Y EAR 31
Average daily hours of sunshine
Sunshine Chart
Hours Hours The amount of
10 10 sunshine per month
in Tokyo does not
8 8
vary greatly, even
6 6 in the winter months.
Winters can see
4 4 temperatures drop
to freezing but the
2 2 clear skies are rarely
disturbed by rain
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec or snow.
Sumidagawa Hanabi Takai (last
Sat in Jul). A fireworks display on
the Sumida river near Asakusa.
The river turns into a sheet of
red, green, and violet as lantern-
lit boats take to the water.
August
O-Bon (Festival of the Dead,
mid-Aug). Family members
return home at a time when,
according to a Buddhist belief,
the spirits also return to earth.
Ancestral graves are visited and
tended, and there are joyful
Bon-Odori dances and festivals.
Koenji Awa Odori (late Aug).
Thousands of participants
gather along Koenji’s main
street to join in the amusing
Fool’s Dance.
Spectacular fireworks display on the Sumida River Samba Festival (last Sat in
Aug). Dancers from Rio join
Sanno-Sai (mid-Jun). In a festival local samba devotees along
Summer that dates back to the founding Asakusa’s Kaminarimon-dori,
When restaurants serve of Edo, locals in historical for an event that draws over
shaved ice, cold noodles, costumes take out processions half a million spectators.
and glasses of chilled barley of mikoshi, accompanied by
tea you know the humid music and dancing at Hie Shrine.
summer days are upon the
city. The clammy June rains July
can seem relentless. In August, Asagao Ichi (Morning Glory
as people return to their Fair, Jul 6–8). Dozens of mer-
hometowns to celebrate chants set up stalls outside
O-Bon, the city is pleasantly Iriya Kishibojin temple to sell
quiet. Specta cular firework flowers associated with the
festivals along the banks of the horti cultural tastes of the
Sumida and Edo rivers during Edo era.
the O-Bon festival add a splash Tanabata Matsuri (Star
of vivid color to the season. Festival, Jul 7). Based on a
Chinese legend; this is said to
June be the only day when two stars
Iris Viewing (early to mid-Jun). can meet as lovers across the
The iris garden in the grounds Milky Way. Branches of bamboo
of Meiji-jingu shrine and are decorated with paper
at the Horikiri Iris Garden, streamers inscribed with
Katsushika ward, offer the scribbled wishes, sometimes Vibrantly costumed dancer at the
best viewing. in the form of poetry. Samba Festival
030-033_EW_Tokyo.indd 31 12/09/16 11:27 am
32 INTRODUCING T OK Y O
Average monthly rainfall
Rainfall Chart
mm Inches
300 12 Tokyo’s rainy season
lasts all through
240 June and into the
9 early days of July.
180 September and
6 October typhoons
120 can bring squalls.
3 Fall is generally
60 a dry season. April
has unpredictable
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec rain showers.
Fall
Although the summer heat
continues into September,
fall is a gentle season, with
many fine, clear days and little
rainfall. The ginkgo leaf is the
symbol of Tokyo and avenues
of the yellow-leaved trees can
be seen throughout the city.
Chrysanthemum festivals are
held in temples and gardens.
Open-air food stands called
yatai, and convenience stores Women in traditional costumes at the Jidai Matsuri Festival
start to prepare oden (mixed
hotpot) toward the end of Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu November
the season signaling cooler Festival (Sep 14–16). Horseback Tokyo Designer’s Week (early
days to come. archery and a procession of Nov). Art enclaves dotted
floats draw a large crowd to this around the city showcase
important Kamakura shrine. the latest trends in the field
Ningyo-Kuyo (late Sep). of fashion, video graphics,
Hopeful couples pray for furniture, and interior design.
children by offering dolls Tokyo Jidai Matsuri (Festival of
at the Kiyomizu Kannon-do the Ages, Nov 3). Locals in period
temple in Ueno Park. Priests costumes representing figures
make a ritual fire, placing from Japanese history parade
last year’s dolls on the pyre. around Asakusa’s Senso-ji
temple. This is a great
October photo opportunity.
Oeshiki Festival (Oct Shichi-Go-San (Seven-Five-
11–13). A Buddhist Three Children’s Festival,
festival, held at Ike- Nov 15). Children of
gami Honmonji these ages are dressed
Temple, commem- up in kimonos for
orating the death visits to shrines in
of Saint Nichren. appreciation of their
Tokyo International health and to pray for
Film Festival (late Oct). further blessings.
Visitors try the latest technology at the The largest in Asia, International Robot
Tokyo Game Show the focus is on films Exhibition (late Nov to
from Asia and Japan. early Dec, alternate, odd-
September Chrysanthemum numbered years). Billed as
Tokyo Game Show (mid-Sep). Viewing (late Oct– the world’s largest
Held at the gigantic mid-Nov). Chrysanthe- Sony’s humanoid trade show focusing
convention center at mum pavilions are robot exhibit on robotics, it brings
Makuhari Messe on Tokyo Bay, erected in Shinjuku together an exciting
the three-day event attracts Gyoen Garden; flower dolls are array of the latest in technology
thousands of visitors. displayed at Yushima Tenjin shrine. and products.
030-033_EW_Tokyo.indd 32 12/09/16 11:27 am
T OK Y O THROUGH THE Y EAR 33
Average monthly temperature Temperature Chart
Spring is comfortable for
°C °F most visitors. Summer
30 90 temperatures can be
25 80 misleading. June to
September are muggy
20 70 with high levels of
15 60 humidity. Winter
temperatures can drop
10 50
to freezing. May and
5 40 October are the most
0 30 pleasant months with
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec crisp, clear skies.
Joya-no-Kane (midnight Dec February
Winter
31). Temple bells begin to toll Setsubun (Feb 3 or 4). Marking
Winter can be cold in Tokyo, at midnight, 108 rings repre- the first day of spring on the
however there is usually only senting the 108 human sins old lunar calendar, temple
a day or two of snowfall. The that must be expunged. priests and celebrities throw
return of mochi (rice cakes) dried soy beans into crowds
and little jars of warmed up January of onlookers, symbolizing the
sake are seasonal signs. An Oshogatsu (New Year’s Day). casting out of bad spirits.
exodus takes place at Japan’s most important Plum Viewing (late Feb). Yushima
Oshogatsu (New Year), festival. The first few days Tenjin shrine is a famous spot,
which is one of the are family-oriented. People though there are few plum trees
year’s peak travel visit Shinto shrines to offer here. Open-air tea cere monies
times. For those their wishes for the coming and floral exhibits are displayed,
who remain at new year. and plum bonsai are sold.
home, it is a Water Purification
chance to enjoy Rituals (Jan Public Holidays
traditional New 10–12). A ritual
Year dishes and to clean sing by If a public holiday falls on
offer prayers for the both young a Sunday, the follow ing
coming year. and old. The Monday is also a holiday.
best places to catch New Year’s Day (Jan 1)
December this event are at Coming-of-Age Day
Hagoita Ichi (Racket Kanda Myojin and (2nd Mon in Jan)
Fair, Dec 17–19). Kabuki actor in costume Teppozu Inari shrines. National Foundation
Ornate rackets, sold in Seijin no hi (Coming- Day (Feb 11)
the precincts of Senso-ji of-Age Day, 2nd Mon in Jan). Vernal Equinox Day
temple, feature the faces Young people turning 20 this (around Mar 20)
of famous Kabuki actors, year cele brate their passage
celebrities, and sports stars. to adulthood. Showa Day (Apr 29)
Constitution Memorial Day
(May 3)
Greenery Day (May 4)
Children’s Day (May 5)
Marine Day (3rd Mon in Jul)
Mountain Day (Aug 11)
Respect-for-the-Aged
Day (3rd Mon in Sep)
Fall Equinox Day
(around Sep 23)
Health-Sports Day (2nd Mon
in Oct)
Culture Day (Nov 3)
Labor Thanksgiving Day
(Nov 23)
Emperor’s Birthday
(Dec 23)
Braving the icy waters during a purification ritual
030-033_EW_Tokyo.indd 33 12/09/16 11:27 am
034-035_EW_Tokyo.indd 34 12/09/16 11:27 am
TOKYO AREA
BY AREA
Tokyo at a Glance 36–37
Central Tokyo 38–47
Northern Tokyo 48–59
Western Tokyo 60–71
Farther Afield 72–79
Three Guided Walks 80–85
Beyond Tokyo 86–105
034-035_EW_Tokyo.indd 35 12/09/16 11:27 am
36 T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA
Tokyo at a Glance
Japan’s capital is situated on the banks of the Sumida River,
by Tokyo Bay. As the fishing village of Edo it became the
shogunate’s center of power in 1603. The Shitamachi (low city)
of merchants and artisans served the political and intellectual
elite in the Yamanote (high city) on the hills to the west.
Renamed Tokyo and made capital in 1868, the city was
devastated by the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923, followed
TOKYO
by World War II bombing. It has since reinvented itself as one
of the world’s most modern, exciting, and energizing cities.
Transportation is efficient – the easy-to-use JR Yamanote Line
circles the city, subway lines crisscross the center (see Back End-
paper), and shinkansen lines link it with the rest of the country.
It can be difficult to find individual buildings by their addresses Locator Map
(see p171). The Tokyo Street Finder (see pp176–85) locates all
the sights, restaurants, and hotels mentioned in this guide.
NORTHERN
NO.1 (See pp48–59)
TOKYO
EXPRESSWAY
West Shinjuku (see pp64–5) is an area of SHINJUKU-D O R I EXPRES SWAY N O . 9
soaring skyscrapers, providing a visible
manifestation of the corporate wealth of EXPRESSWAY N O . 4
Tokyo. The most impressive buildings are CENTRAL TOKYO
the Tokyo Metropolitan Government (See pp38–47)
Offices, designed by Kenzo Tange. WESTERN TOKYO
(See pp60–71) DORI
AOYAMA-DORI EXPRESS WAY NO.3 SAKURADA
E X PRESSWA Y N O . 1
East Shinjuku
(see pp62–3) comes
alive when West
Shibuya (see pp68–9) is a mixture Shinjuku shuts down.
of large department stores and It encompasses a red-
smaller shops, all catering to light area, countless
young consumers. Adjacent to bars, and various forms
Shibuya are the equally fashion- of entertain ment
oriented areas of Harajuku and from movies to
Minami-Aoyama. pachinko parlors.
Tokyo’s Shibuya district, a famous youth and nightlife center
036-037_EW_Tokyo.indd 36 12/09/16 11:27 am
T OK Y O A T A GLANCE 37
Ueno Park (see pp50–51) Tokyo National
is one of Tokyo’s most Museum (see
extensive green spaces, pp52–5) consists
always crowded with of four main
locals. Spectacular in buildings,
the cherry blossom dominating the
season, it also merits an northern reaches
unhurried visit at other of Ueno Park,
times of the year for which exhibit
its boating ponds and a stunning array
many temples, shrines, of Japanese art,
and museums. and archaeological
artifacts. It is the
largest such
collection in the
world and includes
some fascinating
items from elsewhere
in Asia including
China and Korea.
NORTHERN
NO.1 (See pp48–59)
TOKYO
EXPRESSWAY
SHINJUKU-D O R I
EXPRESSWAY N O . 4 EXPRES SWAY N O . 9
CENTRAL TOKYO
(See pp38–47)
WESTERN TOKYO
(See pp60–71) DORI
AOYAMA-DORI EXPRESS WAY NO.3 SAKURADA offers an insight into the tradi
Senso-ji Temple (see pp58–9)
E X PRESSWA Y N O . 1 tional side of Tokyo. Still attracting
thousands of worshipers daily, it
also has many craft shops lining
its main approach.
0 kilometers 2
0 miles 1
Ginza (see pp40–41) provides the archetypal Tokyo
shopping experience, with its venerable department
stores and small, exclusive shops, which have been
joined by various international designer boutiques.
Some excellent restaurants are also located here.
036-037_EW_Tokyo.indd 37 12/09/16 11:27 am
Korakuen
BUNKYO-KU
Suidobashi
Ochanomizu Suehirocho
SOTOBORI-DORI
Iidabashi
Suidobashi
S O T O B O R I - D O R I Kudanshita EXPRESSWAY NO.5 Jinbocho AIOI-ZAKA Akihabara Iwamotocho bashi Yanagibashi
YUSHIMA-ZAKA
Asakusa-
Ochanomizu
Shin
Ochanomizu
YA SU K U N I- DORI Takebashi HONGO-DORI Kanda Awajicho EXPRESSWAY NO.1 E DO-DO R I Bakurocho
YASUKUNI-DORI
Bakuro-yokoyama
EAST GARDEN CHUO-DORI Kodenmacho Hamacho
OF THE Shin Nihonbashi
Hanzomon IMPERIAL PALACE Ningyocho
UCHIBORI-DORI Tokyo EITAI-DORI Nihonbashi Suitengumae
KIYOSUBASHI-DORI DORI
CHIYODA- Otemachi EXPRESSWAY NO.9
Mitsukoshimae
KU H I B I YA - D O R I SHIN-OHASHI-
U C HIB O
Nijubashimae CHUO-DORI Kayabacho
Nagatacho SOTOBRI-DORI SHOWA-DORI
EXPRESSWAY NO.4 RI-D O R I
Sakuradamon Hatchobori
Hibiya Kyobashi KA JIBASHI-DORI
Takaracho
Kokkai- Kasumigaseki Yurakucho CHUO-KU
EXPRESSWAY NO . 3 S A K U R A D A - D O R I Uchisaiwaicho Shinbashi HARUMI-DORI Tsukiji R i ve r
Gijidomae
Ginza
Toranmon
Higashi-
Shintomicho
ginza
UCHIBORI-DORI
HIBIYA-DORI
Roppongi-
itchome
MINATO-KU Shiodome Tsukijishijo S u m i d a
Kamiyacho
Onarimon
Akabanebashi DAIICHI KEIHIN
Daimon
Shibakoen Hamamatsucho
EXPRESSWAY LOOP LINE
038-039_EW_Tokyo.indd 38 12/09/16 11:27 am
T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA 39
CENTRAL TOKYO
Situated to the north and west of the The Shiodome skyscraper development
Sumida River, this area has been at the heart is another prominent commercial center.
of Tokyo since the first shogun, Ieyasu, built For more down-to-earth shopping, there
his castle and capital where the Imperial is the Jimbocho area for books, Akihabara
Palace still stands today. Destroyed by a for electron ics, and Tsukiji Fish Market
series of disasters, including the Great Kanto for the catch of the day. Central Tokyo’s
Earthquake of 1923 and the Allied bombing continuing importance is evident in
in World War II, the area has reinvented itself the Hibiya and Marunouchi districts,
several times over. Ginza and Nihonbashi and the area is also home to two very
were commercial centers and are still different shrines – Kanda and Yasukuni.
prosperous, offering a mix of department A selec tion of green spaces provides
stores and side-street boutiques. a respite from the bustle elsewhere.
Sights at a Glance
Notable Districts Shrines w Kitanomaru Park
1 Ginza see pp40–41 e Yasukuni Shrine t Koishikawa Korakuen Garden
7 Nihonbashi District y Kanda Myojin Shrine Market
8 Marunouchi District Modern Architecture 3 Tsukiji Fish Market
r Jimbocho Booksellers’ District 5 Shiodome
u Akihabara Electronics District
6 Tokyo Tower
Historic Buildings 9 Tokyo International Forum
2 Kabuki-za Theater Parks and Gardens
0 Diet Building
q Imperial Palace 4 Hama-rikyu Gardens
6 Shiba Park
0 kilometers 1
Korakuen
BUNKYO-KU 0 miles 0.5
Suidobashi
Ochanomizu Suehirocho
SOTOBORI-DORI
Iidabashi
Suidobashi
S O T O B O R I - D O R I Kudanshita EXPRESSWAY NO.5 Jinbocho AIOI-ZAKA Akihabara Iwamotocho bashi Yanagibashi
Asakusa-
YUSHIMA-ZAKA
Ochanomizu
Shin
Ochanomizu
YA SU K U N I- DORI Takebashi HONGO-DORI Kanda Awajicho EXPRESSWAY NO.1 E DO-DO R I Bakurocho
YASUKUNI-DORI
Bakuro-yokoyama
EAST GARDEN CHUO-DORI Kodenmacho Hamacho
OF THE Shin Nihonbashi
Hanzomon IMPERIAL PALACE Ningyocho
KIYOSUBASHI-DORI DORI
UCHIBORI-DORI Tokyo EITAI-DORI Nihonbashi Suitengumae
CHIYODA- Otemachi EXPRESSWAY NO.9
Mitsukoshimae
KU H I B I YA - D O R I SHIN-OHASHI-
U C HIB O
Nijubashimae CHUO-DORI Kayabacho
Nagatacho SOTOBRI-DORI SHOWA-DORI
EXPRESSWAY NO.4 RI-D O R I
Sakuradamon Hatchobori
Hibiya Kyobashi KA JIBASHI-DORI
Takaracho
Kokkai- Kasumigaseki Yurakucho CHUO-KU
EXPRESSWAY NO . 3 S A K U R A D A - D O R I Uchisaiwaicho Shinbashi HARUMI-DORI Tsukiji R i ve r
Gijidomae
Ginza
Toranmon
Higashi-
Shintomicho
ginza
UCHIBORI-DORI
Roppongi-
HIBIYA-DORI
itchome
MINATO-KU Shiodome Tsukijishijo S u m i d a
Kamiyacho
Onarimon
Akabanebashi DAIICHI KEIHIN
Daimon
Shibakoen Hamamatsucho See also Street Finder
maps 2, 3, 4, 5 & 6
EXPRESSWAY LOOP LINE
Tokyo’s Imperial Palace, with the landmark Nijubashi bridge in the foreground For keys to symbols see back flap
038-039_EW_Tokyo.indd 39 12/09/16 11:27 am
40 T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA
1 Street-by-Street: Ginza
Ginza
When Ieyasu moved his military capital to Edo in 1600,
Ginza was all swamp and marshland. Once filled in, the
area attracted tradesmen and merchants. The silver mint
that provided Ginza’s name, “silver place,” was built in 1612.
In 1872 fire destroyed everything and, with the Meiji
Restoration in full swing, the government ordered Irish
architect Thomas Waters to rebuild the area in red brick.
From then on it was the focus for Western influences and Shoppers at the landmark Ginza
all things modern, and is still one of Tokyo’s prime market Yon-chome crossing
centers. Tiny shops selling local crafts mix with galle ries,
department stores, and the ultra-modern Sony showroom R I –
for an unrivaled shopping experience. O I
B R
Hankyu and Seibu O O
department stores focus O T D
on fashions, with a mix S
of Japanese and
international
labels.
I
R
O
D
–
Yurakucho Center Building, housing Hankyu and Seibu K I
I
M
A
N
Gallery Center Building –
On the second floor of R I
H A R U M I – D O R I
this modern building O I
are a number of exclusive B O R
galleries showcasing O T O D I
Japanese and West ern S O R
art. On the fifth is an D
auction house, and the I –
sixth has the Ginza Ginza Noh I K
Yokyo Hall, with exhibits M
by artists working in Theater N A
different media. R I
O
D
N –
M I Y U K I – D O R I
A
Namiki-Dori and U R
Chuo-Dori are now Z
called “Brand Street” S U
with boutiques
such as Gucci, Dior, The Asahi
Louis Vuitton, and Building contains
Cartier. a traditional
kimono shop,
silversmiths, and
several boutiques.
Key
Sony Showroom
Sony’s latest technology and electronic gadgets are on Suggested walk route
display on several floors here, and many can be tried out. Train line
040-041_EW_Tokyo.indd 40 12/09/16 11:23 am
CENTR AL T OK Y O 41
Printemps is a NORTHERN
branch of the TOKYO
French department
store. Parisian
influence came to CENTRAL
Ginza in the 1930s WESTERN TOKYO
and can also be TOKYO
seen in the nearby
French cafés and
boutiques.
Locator Map
See Tokyo Street Finder map 5
Wako Department Store
Opposite the San’ai Building, this enduring
– landmark was originally built in 1932. Its
I
R clocktower is a popular symbol of Ginza, and the
O I window displays are always entertaining.
B R
O O
T D
O
S
Matsuya
department store is
another huge store
stocking everything
from food to bonsai
Nihonbashi
plants. Restaurant
City offers a large
range of cuisines.
I
R
O
D
–
I I
K R
I O
M D
A –
N O
U
H
C
Mikimoto
I Visit the glittering
R inte rior of this shop,
O
D the original producer
–
I of cultured pearls. Mitsukoshi
K
I Department Store
M This classic Tokyo store
A
N I Kabuki-za Theater retains an aura of glamor –
R (see p42) some people still dress up
O to shop here. Do not miss
D
N – Ginza Yon-chome crossing, the particularly luxurious
M I Y U K I – D O R I
A one of the busiest in the world, kimono department.
U R is Ginza’s main intersection.
Z
U
S
0 meters 100
0 yards 100
San’ai Building
Made of glass, this building is at its
best at dusk when the lights and
neon signs inside shine through
the glass, creating a magical effect.
For keys to symbols see back flap
040-041_EW_Tokyo.indd 41 12/09/16 11:23 am
42 T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA
squid to porcelain tea cups are
on offer.
Another vestige of the Tsukiji,
located near the Kachidoki
Bridge entrance to the market,
is the Namiyoke Inari Jinja
(Wave-repelling Fox Shrine),
where fishermen and traders
have come for decades to pray
for safety and prosperity.
4 Hama-rikyu
Gardens
Hama Detached Palace Garden
Kabuki actors performing at the Kabuki-za Theater Map 5 B4. Tel (03) 3541-0200.
Shiodome stn, Oedo line.
2 Kabuki-za Theater 2016. Despite losing its status £ Shimbashi stn, Yamanote
as Japan’s primary seafood
Kabuki-za Theatre line. 4 Sumida River Trip.
Open 9am–5pm. (Last adm
wholesaler, the district remains
Map 5 C3. 4-12-15 Ginza. Tel (03) a mecca for lovers of fresh 30 mins before closing.) &
3545-6800. Higashi-Ginza stn, seafood and the original
Toei Asakusa & Hibiya lines. &
∑ kabuki-bito.jp/eng/contents/ “outer market” has remained Situated where the Sumida
theatre/kabukiza.html where it was, although it has River empties into Tokyo Bay,
lost some of its gritty, old-world this 62-acre (25-ha) garden was
Tokyo’s principal theater for charm. The vendors are now built in 1654 as a retreat for the
Kabuki (see p19) opened in mainly located in a slick, multi- shogun’s family and opened to
1889 during the reign of story building where it is still the public in 1945. Former US
Emperor Meiji – a part of possible to see and taste many President Ulysses S. Grant stayed
Kabuki’s shift from popular unusal types of freshly caught in a villa in the gardens during
daytime enter tainment for the fish. Seafood lovers won’t be his visit in 1879 and sipped
Shita machi masses in Asakusa disappointed as the area still green tea with Emperor Meiji
to a more highbrow art form. serves some of the freshest in Nakajima teahouse.
The building was one of sushi around. The lovely garden grounds
the striking examples of the Visitors longing for a less surround ing the duck ponds
use of Western building sterile market experience can are still a pleasant place to
materials and techniques enjoy perusing the remaining stroll and sit. All of the original
in traditional Japanese style. mom-and-pop-style shops and teahouses and villas, trees,
Partially destroyed by the stalls that line the streets and and vegetat ion burned
Allied bombing of 1945, alleys surrounding the market, down after a bomb ing raid
the theater was rebuilt in where everything from dried on November 29, 1944.
1951, only to be demolished
completely in 2010. A brand-
new structure re-opened in
March 2013 (see pp150–51).
3 Tsukiji Fish
Market
築地魚河岸 Tsukiji Fish Market
Map 5 C4. Tsukijishijo stn, Toei
Oedo line; Tsukiji stn, Hibiya line.
Open 5am–2pm Mon–Sat. ∑ tsukiji.
or.jp/english/accessmap.html
Formerly the largest fish market
in the world, Tsukiji was the
heart of Japan’s thri ving seafood
trade. Originally established in
1935, the wholesale “inner
market” was controversially
moved to Toyosu (see p77) in Nakajima teahouse in Hama-rikyu Gardens
042-043_EW_Tokyo.indd 42 12/09/16 2:14 pm
CENTR AL T OK Y O 43
The Shiodome skyline from the vantage point of the Sumida River
Nakajima Teahouse has Capsule Tower, a curious To the west of the park, on the
been rebuilt, seeming to float apartment complex built edge of the Roppongi District
over the large pond. Green in 1972 and inspired by a (see pp70–71), is the striking
tea and Japanese sweets traditional Japanese puzzle Tokyo Tower. Completed in
are available here. that uses blocks of wood 1958, at 1,093-ft (333-m) tall,
stacked together. For greater it is higher than the Eiffel Tower
explo ration of the Tokyo Bay in Paris, on which it is based.
5 Shiodome area, take the Yurikamome The ground floor has an
Line from Shiodome Station
Shiodome aquarium and elevators to
toward Rainbow Bridge, and the observation deck. Other
Map 5 B3, B4. Shiodome stn, Toei enjoy great views of the floors house amusements.
Oedo line. £ Shimbashi stn, Sumida River and the futuristic Two viewpoints – the main
Yamanote line, Toei Asakusa line. island of Odaiba (see p77) one at 492 ft (150 m) and a
Shiodome stn, Yurikamome line.
higher one at 820 ft (250 m)
– offer specta cular views of
Before industrialization, the 6 Shiba Park and Tokyo Bay, the nearby districts
ocean-facing parts of Tokyo Tokyo Tower of Shimbashi and Ginza, and
Bay were famous for their nori Shiba Park and Tokyo Tower
Mount Fuji on a clear day. As a
(seaweed) culti vation. In the late lofty symbol of the city, Tokyo
1980s, waterfront development Map 5 A4, 2 F5. Shiba-Koen stn, Tower has been usurped by the
became Tokyo’s new frontier. Toei Mita line. Tokyo Tower: 2,080-ft (634-m) Tokyo SkyTree,
The Shiodome City Center Akabanebashi stn, Oedo line. in Sumida.
complex, opened in 2003, is Tel (03) 3433-5111. Open 9am–10pm
one of the more successful of daily. & (extra for higher viewpoint).
these waterfront develop ments.
Within this grove of ultra-modern Shiba Park is a rather frag ment-
skyscrapers are the impressive, ed green space. A large part of
triangular Shiodome Media it is a golf driving range, but a
Tower, headquarters of Kyodo portion in the east is pleasantly
News, and Acty Shiodome, one landscaped with woods and
of the tallest resident ial building a water course. The park used
in Japan. Indoor malls and a to be the Tokugawa family’s
spacious outdoor piazza provide grave yard and at its center is
exciting places to dine or shop. Zojo-ji, the family temple. It was
Nearby is ADMT, the Advertising founded in 1393, and Ieyasu
Museum of Tokyo, located in moved it here in 1598 to protect
the base ment of the Caretta his new capital. The present-day
Shiodome, which has the temple dates from 1974; nearby
offices of the world’s largest are the re built Daimon (big
advertising agency – Dentsu. gate) and the Sanmon (great
Beyond the northern boundary gate), built in 1622, the oldest The soaring Tokyo Tower, inspired by the
Nakajima teahouse in Hama-rikyu Gardens of Shiodome is the Nagakin wooden structure in Tokyo. Eiffel Tower in Paris
042-043_EW_Tokyo.indd 43 12/09/16 11:23 am
44 T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA
Berlin National Bank, 8 Marunouchi
was the first Western- District
style building
designed by a Marunouchi District
Japanese architect, Map 5 B1–2. Tokyo stn, Marunouchi
Kingo Tatsuno. line. £ Tokyo stn, many lines. Tokyo
On the north Station Gallery: Tel (03) 3212-2485.
bank of Nihonbashi Open 10am–6pm daily (to 8pm Fri).
River, just before
Nihonbashi Bridge, During the Edo era, this district
is the bronze marker earned the name “Gambler’s
from which distances Meadow” as its isolation made it
to and from Tokyo are an ideal place to gamble secretly.
still measured. The In the Meiji period it was used
bridge here today by the army, who sold it to
dates from 1911. Mitsubishi in 1890. The arrival of
On the south bank the railroad increased Marunou-
Mitsukoshi’s central hall in Nihonbashi of the river, east of chi’s appeal as a business site.
the bridge, is the Tokyo Station, designed by
7 Nihonbashi Tokyo Stock Exchange, which Kingo Tatsuno and completed
District lists more than 2,000 companies, in 1914, is based on the design
and is one of the world’s top of Amsterdam station. Its dome
Nihonbashi District
five. This is a great place to see was damaged in the 1945 air
Map 5 C1–2, 6 D1. Tokyo stn, how important commerce raids and later replaced by the
Marunouchi line; Nihonbashi stn, remains in Tokyo. The visitors’ polyhedron here today. The
Ginza, Tozai & Toei Asakusa lines; observa tion deck overlooks the original reliefs adorning the
Mitsukoshi mae stn, Ginza & Hanzomon trading floor and has interesting domes over the North and
lines. £ Tokyo stn, many lines. Tokyo exhibits comparing stock South exits are worth a look,
Stock Exchange: Tel (03) 3666-1361. markets world wide. as is the Tokyo Station Hotel.
Open 9am– 4:30pm Mon–Fri. Kite
Museum: Tel (03) 3271-2465. West of the Stock Exchange The station also houses the
Open 11am–5pm Mon–Sat. Mitsui is the Kite Museum, located small Tokyo Station Gallery.
Memorial Museum: Tel (03) 5777-8600. on the fifth floor of a well- Facing the station, the striking
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun (open known eatery, Tameikan. The Marunouchi Building is an
Mon if it is a national holiday). & restaurant’s former owner, a important local landmark,
kite enthusiast, founded the housing shops, restaurants, and
Nihonbashi, meaning “Japan’s museum which exhibits kites offices. A short walk west of the
bridge,” after the expansive from China and other Asian station over Wadakura Bridge
bridge over the Nihonbashi River countries. On the north side leads to the Wadakura Fountain
that marked the start of the five of the river near the Mitsukoshi Park, with interesting water
major high ways of the Edo store is the Mitsui Memorial features. Returning over the
period, was once the trade Museum, which has an excel- bridge, cross Hibiya-dori and
center of Edo and Meiji Tokyo. lent collection of Japanese turn right to the Meiji Seimei
After the destruction of the 1923 ceramics and teaware. Next kan Building (1934), with its
earthquake, shops, businesses, to Nihonbashi Station is huge Corinthian columns.
and banks started relocating to Coredo Nihonbashi, an Hiroshige, the wood-block print
Marunouchi and Ginza. upmarket shopping mall with artist, was born on this site in
Although the area never a focus on women’s fashion. 1797. Beyond, the Imperial
regained its original stature, South of the mall towards Theater (see p177), founded in
it is still a thriving commercial Ginza, the National Film 1910, shows Broadway musicals
center, with dozens of bank Center (see p147) hosts regular and Japanese popular dramas.
headquarters as well as huge screenings of Japanese and
depart ment stores and smaller foreign films. There are
traditional shops. Mitsukoshi permanent exhibits
(see p138) has its main store of film equipment,
here, on Mitsukoshimae. It and other film-
started as a kimono shop in related items.
1673. Head for the basement Books, film
food market with its free posters, and
samples, and the sixth-floor archival mate-
bargain counters where you can rial are easily
jostle with Tokyo’s thrifty elite. avail able in
To the west of the store, the the center’s
Bank of Japan, built in 1896 and bookstore and
modeled on the Neo-Classical public library. Tokyo Station’s Western-style facade
044-045_EW_Tokyo.indd 44 12/09/16 11:27 am
CENTR AL T OK Y O 45
9 Tokyo q Imperial Palace
International Imperial Palace
Forum Map 3 A5, 3 B5, 5 A1, 5 B1.
Nijubashi stn, Chiyoda line. £ Tokyo
Tokyo International Forum
stn, many lines. Imperial Palace:
Map 5 B2. Yurakucho stn, Open Jan 2, Dec 23. East Garden of the
Yurakucho line; Tokyo stn, Maru nouchi Imperial Palace: Tel (03) 3213-1111.
line. £ Tokyo & Yurakucho stns, many Open 9am–4:30pm Tue–Thu, Sat, Sun
lines. Open 7am–10:30pm daily. (Nov–Feb: to 4pm). Closed Mon, Fri.
∑ t-i-forum.co.jp/en
Ieyasu, the first Tokugawa
Designed by New York-based shogun, started building his
architect Rafael Viñoly, and castle here in 1590. In the Edo
completed in 1996, the Forum is period his successors made this
one of downtown Tokyo’s most The imposing granite exterior of the into the world’s largest castle;
distinctive buildings (see p17). Diet Building now only the inner circle
A cultural center, it is made up remains. The emperor and his
of two buildings – a curved, 0 The Diet family still live in the western
glass atrium soaring 200 ft Building part of the grounds in the
(60m), and a cube-like, white Imperial Palace, rebuilt after
the previous one was bombed
structure housing four halls Hibiya District and the Diet Building
(the largest seating 5,012). A Map 2 F3, 5 A2, 5 B2. Kokkai- during World War II. Public access
tree-shaded courtyard separates Gijidomae stn, Chiyoda & Marunouchi is allowed twice a year – at
the two, while glass walkways lines; Hibiya stn, Toei Mita, Chiyoda & New Year and on the emperor’s
provide an overhead link. Hibiya lines. Diet Building: Open birthday. The rest of the grounds,
The interior of the huge 9am–5pm Mon–Fri. 8 (compulsory, bounded by the moat, are
atrium has a ceiling resem bling by reserva tion). Idemitsu Museum of divided into public parks.
a ship’s hull. Inside the Forum Arts: Tel (03) 5777-8600. Open The most famous landmark is
10am–5pm Tue–Sun (to 7pm Fri).
are a number of shops, cafés, Hibiya Park: Open 24 hrs daily. the Nijubashi, a double-arched
and restaurants, all with state- ∑ sangiin.go.jp/eng/index.htm stone bridge, east of the palace.
of-the-art facilities. The Cultural Completed in 1888, it was the
Information Lobby within the Comple ted in 1936, the palace’s main en trance. The
complex offers Internet facili ties Diet Building houses the huge Otemon (Big Hand Gate),
and has an audio-visual library legislature of the Japanese rebuilt in 1967, was the main
high lighting Tokyo’s attractions. government, originally gate before Niju bashi was
establish ed as the built. Now it is the entrance
Imperial Diet in the to the East Garden of the
Meiji era. Tours (in Imperial Palace. Just inside
Japanese only) cover is Sannomaru Shozo kan, a
the Diet chamber, collection of art and artifacts
where you can see of the Showa Emperor. Beyond
the deliberations of is the Edo-era Hyaku nin Basho,
Diet members, and where 100 samurai lived while
the extrava gantly deco- standing guard in shifts. Behind
rated rooms used by the is the Honmaru, the castle’s
emperor for official main keep, only massive stone
functions. Overlooking walls remain with good views
the Imperial Palace, in from the top. To the east of the
the Tei Geki building, the Honmaru is the Nino maru
Idemitsu Museum of garden, land scaped by
Arts features one of the Shogun Iemitsu in 1630.
city’s finest displays of
Japanese and Asian art.
Nearby is Central
Tokyo’s only Western-
style park, Hibiya Park,
which is the focus of
Hibiya district. The
park’s location, close
to political centers,
makes it a favorite
place for public protests.
The airy glass-and-metal interior of Tokyo The large bandstand is A glimpse of the Imperial Palace over the
International Forum also used for concerts. stone bridge Nijubashi
044-045_EW_Tokyo.indd 45 12/09/16 11:27 am
46 T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA
are fun, including colon izers of China and
virtual bike rides Korea are also enshrined
and electricity here, including wartime
demonstrations prime minister, Hideki Tojo,
(all explanations and 13 other Class-A war
are in Japanese). criminals. Visits by cabinet
Five minutes ministers are controversial.
beyond, over a Beside the shrine is the
main road, and left Yushukan, a museum dedi-
down the hill, is the cated to the war dead. Many
National Museum exhibits put a human face to
of Modern Art. The Japan at war; under a photo-
permanent collec- graph of a smiling young officer
tion comprises is a copy of his last letter home,
Japanese works and there are mementos of a
from the 1868 Meiji nurse who died from over work.
Restoration to the Romanti cized paintings of
present day; visiting Japanese soldiers in Manchuria
exhibits are often and displays of guns, planes,
excellent. Nearby and even a locomotive from
is the National the Thai-Burma Railroad may
Museum of Modern be disturbing to some.
Art’s Crafts Gallery.
Visitors boating in Kitanomaru Park, one of the best Inside this 1910 r Jimbocho
spots in Tokyo to see cherry blossoms Neo-Gothic brick Booksellers’ District
building is an
w Kitanomaru Park exquisite collection of modern Jinbocho Booksellers© District
workings of traditional Japanese
Kitanomaru Park Map 3 B4–5. Jimbocho stn, Toei
crafts – pottery, lacquerware, Mita, Hanzomon & Toei Shinjuku lines.
Map 3 A5. Kudanshita stn, and damascene (inlaid metal
Hanzo mon, Toei Shinjuku & Tozai lines; arti facts). Some pieces are Three of Japan’s prestigious uni-
Takebashi stn, Tozai line. National for sale. versities, Meiji, Chuo, and Nihon,
Museum of Modern Art: Tel (03) 5777- started out in this area in the
8600. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
& ∑ momat.go.jp/english e Yasukuni Shrine 1870s and 1880s, and soon
Crafts Gallery: Tel (03) 3211-7781. booksellers sprang up selling
both new and used books. At
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. & Yasukuni Shrine
Science Museum: Tel (03) 3212-8544. Map 2 F1. Tel (03) 3261-8326. one time 50 per cent of Japan’s
Open 9:30am–4:50pm daily. & Kudanshita stn, Hanzomon, Tozai publishers were based here.
∑ jsf.or.jp/eng & Toei Shinjuku lines. Open 6am–6pm Although only Meiji University
daily. ∑ yasukuni.or.jp/english and Nihon University are still
Lying to the north of the Yushukan: Open 9am–4:30pm daily. & here, dozens of bookshops,
Imperial Palace, Kitano maru several selling ukiyo-e prints,
Park is reached through the The 2.5 million remain, all clustered
massive Tayasumon gate. A Japanese, soldiers and around the junction
former ground for the Imperial civilians who have of Yasukuni-dori and
Palace Guard, the area became died in war since the Hakusan-dori. For
a park in 1969. Before entering, Meiji Restoration are books in English on
keep Tayasumon on your enshrined at Yasukuni Oriental subjects try
left and walk past it to reach Jinja (Shrine of Peace Kitazawa Books or
Chidorigafuchi (the west for the Nation), which Issei-do; for ukiyo-e
moat), one of Tokyo’s most was dedicated in prints, visit Oya
beautiful cherry blossom- 1879. Its history Shobo – all are on
viewing spots. Row boats makes it a sobering the south side of
can be rented here. place to visit. Yasukuni-dori, walk-
Within Kitanomaru’s pleasant Until the end of ing away from
grounds are a number of build- World War II, Shinto Hakusan-dori.
ings. Near Tayasumon is the was the official state The change in the
Nippon Budokan (see p148). religion, and the ashes Browsing in one of economic status (and
Built for the 1964 Olympics of all who died in war Jimbocho’s bookshops priorities) of students
martial arts compe tition, it is were brought here re - is evident here. Shops
now used mostly for rock gardless of the families’ wishes. selling surf- or snowboards
concerts. A short walk farther Unsettling for some of Japan’s are everywhere. Music shops
on is the Science Museum. neighbors, the planners and selling electric guitars seem as
Some of the interactive exhibits leaders of World War II and the numerous as the bookshops.
046-047_EW_Tokyo.indd 46 12/09/16 11:23 am
CENTR AL T OK Y O 47
y Kanda Myojin u Akihabara
Shrine Electronics District
Kanda Myojin Shrine Akihabara Electronics District
Map 3 C4. Tel (03) 3254-0753. Map 3 C4. Akihabara stn,
Ochanomizu stn, Marunouchi line. Hibiya line. £ Akihabara stn,
£ Ochanomizu stn, Chuo & Sobu Yamanote, Chuo & Sobu lines.
lines. Open 24 hours daily. Museum:
Open 10am–4pm Sat, Sun & public Akihabara Electronics District
hols. & _ Kanda Matsuri (Sat & Sun surrounds Akihabara Sta tion.
closest to May 15 in alternate, odd- Under the station are tiny shops
numbered years). along narrow aisles selling any
electronic device, simple or
Myojin is over 1,200 years old, complex. The market grew
although the present structure out of the ruins of World War II,
is a repro duction built after the when the Japanese army had
Tsutenkyo bridge in Koishikawa 1923 earth quake. The gate’s surplus radio equip ment it
Korakuen Garden guard ian figures are two wanted to dispose of on the
beautifully dressed archers – black market. Akihabara and
t Koishikawa Udaijin on the right electronics have
Korakuen Garden and Sadai jin on the been synonymous
left. Just inside the ever since. The focus
compound on the left
Koishikawa Korakuen Garden then changed to
Map 3 A3–4. Tel (03) 3811-3015. is a large stone statue house hold elec tronic
Korakuen stn, Marunouchi & Nambo- of Daikoku, one of the goods, and now
ku lines. Open 9am–5pm daily. & shichi-fuku-jin (seven the emphasis is on
lucky gods). Here, as comp uters, cell
Meaning “garden of pleasure always, he is sitting phones, and video
last,” Korakuen is one of Tokyo’s on top of two huge games. On Chuo-dori,
best traditional stroll gardens, rice bales. Lions on the gate to Laox is a great source
a delightful place to spend a The vermilion shrine Kanda Myojin Shrine of tax-free goods.
few restful hours. The name itself and its beautiful Radio Kaikan, the
Korakuen comes from the interior, all lacquer and gold and site that housed the original
Chinese poem “Yueyang Castle” ornate Chinese-style deco ration, radio spare parts dealers,
by Fan Zhongyan – “Be the first are impressive. Early morning is remains with small operators.
to take the world’s trouble to the best time to glimpse the A re develop ment north
heart, be the last to enjoy the Shinto priests performing rituals. and east of the station features
world’s pleasure.” The Kanda Matsuri (see p30) is flag ship stores such as the
Construction of the garden one of the grandest and greatest Akihabara UDX and the
started in 1629 and finished of Tokyo’s festivals – come early Yodobashi Akiba Building.
30 years later. Once four times and be prepared for crowds. The Tokyo Anime Center
its present size of almost 20 Behind the main shrine is a is a showcase for the very
acres (8 ha), it belonged to the museum containing relics from latest in Tokyo’s popular anime
Mito branch of the Tokugawa the long history of Myojin. There culture. Its 3D digital theater
family. An exiled Chinese are also several small shrines, holds regular screenings, live
Scholar, Zhu Shunsui, helped hemmed in by the surrounding concerts, and other anime-
design the garden including office blocks. related events.
the Engetsukyo (full-moon)
Bridge, a stone arch with a
reflection resembling a full
moon. Tsukenkyo Bridge is a
copy of a bridge in Kyoto; its
vermilion color is a striking
contrast to the surrounding
deep green forest.
The garden represents larger
landscapes in miniature. Rozan,
a famous Chinese sightseeing
mountain, and Kyoto’s Oikawa
River are two famous geo graphic
features recreated here. In the
middle of the large pond is Horai
Island, a beautiful composition of
stone and pine trees. Colorful shop fronts and advertisements in Akihabara district
046-047_EW_Tokyo.indd 47 12/09/16 11:23 am
Nippori
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I Sendagi CEMETERY
YANAKA
YANAKA
Uguisudani
K O T O T O I - D O R I
NEZU
Nezu K O T O T O I - D O R I
UENO E X P R E S S W AY N O . 1
ZOO
UENO MATSUGAYA NISHI-
P ARK ASAKUSA
Asakusa
(Tsukuba
Ueno KAPPA BASHI -DO R I Express line)
Keisei- INARICHO ASAKUSA
Shinobazu Ueno Inaricho NAKAMISE- DORI
Pond KAMINARIMON-
T AITO-KU A S A K U S A - D O R I Tawaramachi DORI Asakusa
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
MOTO-
UENO Ueno- ASAKUSA 1.7 km
Okachimachi
Uenohirokoji Shin- KOTOBUKI
Yushima Okachimachi Okachimachi K O K U S A I - D O R I
Naka K A S U G A - D O R I E D O - D O R I S u m i d a R i v e r
SHOKEIBASHI- DORI C H U O - D O R I TAITO KOJIMA MISUJI Kuramae
Okachimachi
KURAMAE
K U R A M A E B A S H I - D O R I
048-049_EW_Tokyo.indd 48 12/09/16 11:23 am
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