(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Tokyo

BEY OND T OK Y O  99

Sengen Jinja
Many Sengen shrines, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
including this main
one at Fuji-Yoshida, Practical Information
can be found around Shizuoka & Yamanashi prefecture.
Fuji. The inner sanctum n Fuji-Yoshida (0555) 22-7000.
_ Fuji-Yoshida Fire Festival
of Sengen shrines is
on the crater rim at (Aug 26 & 27). ∑ city.fujiyoshida.
the summit. They are yamanashi.jp/div/english/html
dedi cated to the deity Transport
of the mountain. £ Fuji-Yoshida, Kawaguchi-ko,
Gotenba, Mishima (Tokaido
Shinkansen), or Fujinomiya. @
summer only, from all stns to the
nearest 5th stage, also direct from
Tokyo (Shinjuku stn W side or
Hamamatsu-cho) to Kawagu chi-
ko, Gotenba, and Lake Yama naka.
Otsuki and Tokyo
Chuo Expressway Fuji-Yoshida, the
traditional pilgrim base,
has old inns, and waterfalls Mount Fuji in Art
for ritual cleansing before
the climb. Mount Fuji’s graceful, almost symmetrical form, its
changing appearance at different seasons and times
of day, and its dominance over the landscape have
Lake Yamanaka is made it both a symbol of Japan and a popular
Oshino popular for waterskiing subject for artists. The mountain features in various
and swimming. series of 19th-century wood -block prints: Katsushika
Hokusai (1760–1849) and Ando Hiroshige (1797–
1858) both published
Subashiri trail series called Thirty-Six
is 4 hours 30 Views of Mount Fuji,
Lake Yamanaka minutes up and Hiroshige also
from the 5th depicted Fuji in his
stage, and 3 Fifty-Three Stages of
hours down. the Tokaido published
in 1833–4. It often
appears in the
background of prints
• 5th Tokyo of Edo (Tokyo); it is
stage still sometimes visible
among Tokyo’s high-
rises even today. In
• 5th stage other arts, Mount
Fuji is echoed in
decorative motifs, for
instance on kimonos,
in wood carvings, and
Gotenba •
even in the shape of One of Hiroshige’s Thirty-Six Views
window frames. of Mount Fuji
Tomei Expressway






Gotenba trail is 8 hours Mishima
up from the 5th stage,
and 3 hours down.
Beneath the Wave off Kanagawa from Hokusai’s Thirty-Six Views
0 kilometers 5
of Mount Fuji
0 miles 3
For keys to symbols see back flap


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100  BEY OND T OK Y O

0 Nikko


Over 1,200 years ago, the formidable Buddhist priest Shodo
Shonin, on his way to Mount Nantai, crossed the Daiya River
and founded the first temple at Nikko. Centuries later, Nikko
was a renowned Buddhist-Shinto religious center, and the
warlord Tokugawa Ieyasu (see p103) chose it for the site of his
mausoleum. When his grandson Iemitsu had Ieyasu’s shrine-
mausoleum Tosho-gu built in 1634, he wanted to impress
upon any rivals the wealth and might of the Tokugawa
clan. Since then, Nikko, written with characters that mean
sunlight, has become a Japanese byword for splendor.
Bato Kannon, with a horse on the
Nikko Sights Taiyuin-byo Takinoo Shrine headdress, at Rinno-ji temple
Shrine
Nikko National Park Futara-san Shinkyo Bridge
Hokke-do Shrine Open daily.
Nikko
Botanical This red-lacquered wooden
Gardens Jogyo-do bridge, just to the left of the road
Tosho-gu
Route 120
Shrine bridge, arches over the Daiya
Tosho-gu Treasure Hall River where, legend has it, Shodo
Ganman-ga- Shonin crossed the river on the
fuchi Pools Tosho-gu
Museum of Art backs of two huge serpents.
Rinno-ji The original, built in 1636 for
Temple Urushi the exclusive use of the shogun
Daiya River Museum and imperial messengers, was
destroyed by flood. The current
Route 120
0 meters 250 bridge dates from 1907.
Shinkyo Bridge
0 yards 250
Kanaya Hotel  Rinno-ji Temple
Nikko town Route 119 Open daily. &
and stations
The first temple founded at Nikko,
by Shodo Shonin in 766, this was
Exploring Nikko Town precincts is lined with shops, originally called Shihonryu-ji.
Of the two stations in Nikko, restaurants, and inns. A good When it became a Tendai-sect
the JR station, the oldest in shop for Nikko wood carvings temple in the 17th century, it was
eastern Japan, is a classic. and geta (wooden sandals) is renamed Rinno-ji. Its Sanbutsu-
The graceful wooden edifice Tezuka, on the left halfway up do (Three Buddha Hall) is the
was built in 1915. Buses to the street. An architectural largest hall at Nikko. It is under-
many of Nikko’s sights run treat is the vener able going major renovations until
from here. The half-a-mile- 19th-century Kanaya Hotel, 2019, but will remain open to the
(1-km-) long avenue from the situated on a rise to the left, public. The three gilt images, of
train stations to the Tosho-gu just before the Daiya River. Amida Buddha, Senju (thousand-
armed) Kannon, and
Bato (horse-headed)
Kannon, enshrined in
the hall correspond to
the three mountain
deities enshrined at
Futara-san shrine.
Beyond the hall, the
nine-ringed bronze
pillar, Sorinto, con-
tains 1,000 volumes
of sutras (Buddhist
scriptures) and is a
symbol of world
peace. The Treasure
Hall (Homotsuden)
has a large and
The Shinkyo Bridge spanning the Daiya River fascinating array
For keys to symbols see back flap
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NIKK O  101


of temple treasures, VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
mainly dating from
the Edo period. Practical Information
Behind it is the Tochigi prefecture. * 84,000.
Shoyoen, a lovely n at Tobu Nikko stn (0288)
landscaped Edo-style 54-2496. _ Tosho-gu Grand
19th-century stroll Festival (May 17–18); Tosho-gu
garden for all seasons. Fall Festival (Oct 17).
∑ nikko-travel.jp/
Its path meanders
around a large pond, english
over stone bridges, Transport
and past mossy £ JR and Tobu-Nikko lines.
stone lanterns.
 Tosho-gu Shrine combines with the limpid
See pp102–3. The Sanbutsu-do hall at Rinno-ji waters of the Daiya River to
make these unusual scenic
P Tosho-gu Treasure Hall Property. More interesting is pools, a sacred spot to
and Museum of Art the tall bronze lantern, which followers of Buddhism.
Tel (0288) 54-2558 (Treasure Hall); was said to take the shape of About 70 stone statues
(0288) 54-0560 (Museum of Art). a monster at night. The gashes of Jizo, the bodhisattva of
Open daily. & in the lantern are from the children, line the path by
In the Treasure Hall are shrine sword of a samurai. the river. They are
treasures along with armor and known as phantom
swords used by the Tokugawa  Takinoo Shrine statues because their
shoguns. In the Museum of Art Tel (0288) 21-0765. numbers always
is an outstanding collec tion of Open daily. appear to change.
early 20th-century painted A quiet 30-minute
doors and panels by Taikan uphill walk through Y Nikko
Yokoyama and others. the woods via a Botanical Gardens
stone path to the left @ to Hanaishicho bus
Hokke-do and Jogyo-do of Futara-san Shrine, stop. Tel (0288) 54-0206.
These two halls belong to this peaceful, rustic Open Tue–Sun.
Rinno-ji and house Buddhist shrine, thought to Closed Dec 1–Apr 14. &
relics. Linked by a corridor, be dedicated to a Some 3,000 varieties
they are often referred to female deity, draws Shrine interior at of plants and flowers
as the twin halls. women and those Futara-san from Japan and
looking for love. Toss a around the world
 Futara-san Shrine stone through the hole in the can be seen at these gardens,
Open daily. & top of the torii (gate) and into a branch of the Koishikawa
Founded by Shodo Shonin in the shrine grounds and your Botanical Gardens of the
782, this shrine is dedicated to wish, they say, will come true. University of Tokyo. Flora
the gods of the mountains from Nikko National Park are
Nantai (male), Nyotai (female),  Taiyuin-byo Shrine showcased. April to July, when
and Taro, their child. It is actually See pp104–5. skunk cabbages and irises
the main shrine of three; the bloom, is a lovely time to visit.
other two are at Lake Chuzen ji } Kanman-ga-Fuchi Abyss
and on the summit of Mount @ to Nishisando bus stop. P Urushi Museum
Nantai. The bronze torii (gate) Lava flows from an old @ to Marumi bus stop. Tel (0288)
here is an Impor tant Cultural eruption of Mount Nantai, 53-6807. Open Mar 20–Nov 20: Mon,
Sat & Sun. &
This small museum, which
opened in 1998 next to
wooded Ogurayama Park,
showcases the lacquerware
arts of Nikko and Japan – urushi
is Japanese for lacquer. Used
in Japan for over 5,000 years,
lacquer has reached the height
of refine ment only in the
past 1,000 years. The museum
collection also includes
examples of lacquerware
Painted sliding doors at the Tosho-gu Museum of Art from China, India, and Egypt.




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102  BEY OND T OK Y O

Nikko: Tosho-Gu Shrine

Tokugawa Iemitsu set out to dazzle with this shrine-
mausoleum for his grandfather Ieyasu. For two years some
15,000 artisans from all over Japan worked, building, carving,
gilting, painting, and lacquering, to create this flowery, Sleeping Cat Carving
gorgeous Momoyama-style complex. Almost anything Over an entrance in the east
that can be decorated is. Although designated a corridor, this tiny, exquisite
carving of a sleeping cat is
shrine in the Meiji period, it retains many attributed to Hidari Jingoro
of its Buddhist elements, including (Jingoro the Left-handed).
its unusual pagoda, sutra library,
and Niomon gate. The famed
sugi-namiki (Japanese
cedar avenue) leading to
the shrine was planted
by a 17th-century lord,
in lieu of a more opulent
offering. The shrine is
undergoing major renovation
work, which is scheduled to be
completed in 2024, though
most of it is still open to visitors.














. Yomeimon Gate
Lavishly decorated with beasts and flowers,
this gate has one of its 12 columns carved
upside-down, a deliberate imperfection to
avoid angering jealous spirits. Statues of
imperial ministers occupy the niches.
Renovation work at the gate will continue
until 2019.

KEY
1 The Rinzo contains a sutra library 7 Honden (inner sanctuary)
of Buddhist scriptures in a revolving 8 The three sacred storehouses
structure. are built according to a traditional
2 Drum tower design. They are closed for
3 The Honji-do’s ceiling is painted renovation until 2019.
with the “crying dragon,” which 9 The Niomon (or Omotemon)
echoes resoundingly if you clap your gate is guarded by two fear some
hands beneath it. Nio figures, one with an open mouth
4 Bell tower to pronounce the first letter of the Sacred Fountain
Sanskrit alphabet (ah), the other with
5 The Karamon gate is the a closed mouth for the last letter (un). The granite basin (1618),
smallest at Tosho-gu. for ritual purification, is
0 Ticket office
6 Haiden (sanctuary) covered with an ornate
q Granite torii (gate) Chinese-style roof.



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NIKK O  103


Tokugawa Ieyasu VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Ieyasu (1543–1616) was a wily Practical Information
strategist and master politician Tel (0288) 54-0560. & Open
who founded the dynasty that 8am– 5pm daily (4pm Nov–Mar).
would rule Japan for more than Tosho-gu is undergoing major
250 years. Born the son of a minor renova tion work until 2024.
lord, he spent his life accumulating Work on the Yomeimon Gate
power, not becoming shogun will last until 2019. It is currently
until 1603, when he was 60. completely covered by scaffolding
Ieyasu built his capital at the but is still worth a visit.
swampy village of Edo (now
Tokyo), and his rule saw the
start of the blooming of Edo Ieyasu’s treasure tower,
culture. He ensured that after containing his ashes
his death, he would be enshrined
as a god and gongen (incarnation of the Buddha). His
posthumous name was Tosho-Daigongen (“the great
incarnation illuminating the East”).


To Ieyasu’s tomb and
treasure tower















. Pagoda
Donated by a daimyo (feudal
lord) in 1650, this five-story
pagoda was rebuilt in 1818
after a fire. Each story represents
an element – earth, water,
fire, wind, and heaven – in
ascending order.






Entrance





. Sacred Stable
A carving of the three wise monkeys
decorates this unpainted wooden
building. A horse given by the New
Zealand government is stabled here
for several hours a day.




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104  BEY OND T OK Y O

Nikko: Taiyuin-Byo Shrine

Completed in 1653, Taiyuin-byo Shrine is the
mauso leum of Tokugawa Iemitsu (1604–51),
the grandson of Ieyasu (see p103) and powerful
third shogun, who closed Japan to foreign
com merce and isolated it from the world for
over 200 years. Tayuin is his posthumous
Buddhist name. If Tosho-gu is splendid, Taiyuin-
byo is sublime. Set in a grove of Japanese cedars,
it has a number of ornate gates ascending to
the Haiden (sanctuary) and Honden (inner
sanctuary). The shogun’s ashes are entombed
beyond the sixth and final gate.



Kokamon Gate
This striking Ming-
dynasty Chinese-style
massive gate is beside
the picturesque path
to Iemitsu’s tomb.




. Haiden
Decorated with lovely
carvings of dragons, the
Haiden (Hall of Worship)
also has some famous
17th-century lion paint ings
by Kano School painters.







Niomon Gate
This marks the main
entrance to the shrine.
A single Nio warrior
god stands guard on
each side.

KEY
1 The drum tower leads to Honji- 4 The Honden (usually closed
do hall, with a painting of a dragon to the public) holds a gilded
on its huge ceiling. Buddhist altar with a wooden
statue of Iemitsu.
2 The Karamon gate is adorned
with delicate carvings, such as a pair 5 Stone lanterns were donated
of cranes. over the years by daimyo (feudal
3 The Ai No Ma is a richly lords).
decorated connecting chamber. Entrance





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NIKK O  105


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Tel (0288) 53-1567.
& Open 8am– 5pm daily
(4pm Nov–Mar).

Bell Tower
This structure forms a pair with the
drum tower. Though no longer
used, the drum signifies positive/
birth, while the bell negative/death.













Yashamon Gate
The third gate is beautifully gilded and
contains four statues of Yasha, a fierce
guardian spirit. It is also known as
Botanmon, or peony gate, after its
detailed peony carvings.











. Nitenmon Gate
Four guardian statues occupy
the niches here. At the front are
the gods Komoku and Jikoku,
while at the back are the
green god of wind and
the red god of thunder.









Granite Fountain
On the ceiling above the
basin is a dragon painting
by Kano Yasunobu, which
is sometimes reflected in
the water below.




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TRAVELERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 108–115

Where to Eat and Drink 116–137
Shopping in Tokyo 138–145
Entertainment in Tokyo 146–153

















































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108  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

The choice of accommodation in Tokyo can thing that all hotels – from opulent
be truly overwhelming, ranging from five-star establishments to family-run minshuku
skyscraper hotels and well-known foreign (see p111) – have in common is a concern for
brand-name chains to cozy boutique hotels comfort combined with a long tradition of
and ryokan (see p110), or traditional Japanese hospitality. Most accommodations are fairly
inns. A stay at a higher-end ryokan – where central, usually located near the main line
you sleep on futons (mattresses), soak in and metro stations, but if you can forego
aromatic cedar tubs, and enjoy kaiseki (see designer interiors and spectacular night
p118) dinners served in private rooms – can views, there are cheaper options available
be a truly memorable experience. But one on the fringes of the central districts.

Booking and Paying
The Japanese Inn Group is a
useful organization for finding
ryokan and hotels geared to
receiving foreign visitors,
although the number of listings
is somewhat limited. The
booking website Jalan, which
is popular locally, offers many
more options, including some
very reasonable bargains, but,
unfortunately, only some of the
listings are in English. Booking
accommodation in advance
is advisable, especially during
major public holidays (see p33). Elegant room with a view at the Grand Hyatt Tokyo (see p112)
Rates quoted are sometimes
per person, not per room, Deluxe Hotels generally located within easy
especially when wanting to stay Top American chains – such as reach of stations on the
at a ryokan. Hilton, Sheraton, Hyatt, Four Yamanote Line, they are very
Most hotels accept all major Seasons, and Westin – are well convenient. Do not expect
credit cards. The bill is usually established in Tokyo. Japanese- English to be spoken.
payable on departure, but owned hotels range from over- Rooms are Western-style,
business hotels and some the-top opulence and discreet functional, small, and spotlessly
others may request advance exclusivity to chic minimalism clean. Slippers and a cotton
payment. In the case of love and quaint eccentricity. robe are generally supplied.
hotels, advance payment is “Intelligent” hotels are common; There is no room service, but
almost always the norm. they feature rooms that monitor there are usually vending
temperature, computerized machines and often at least
toilets, a voicemail message one restaurant with a good
system, MP3 docks, and Wi-Fi. choice of traditional Japanese
Deluxe hotels often have or Western-style breakfasts.
popular restaurants and bars,
many with spectacular views. Capsule Hotels
Some even have small shopping
malls that offer not just Unique to Japan, these hotels
restaurants, but also convenience feature encapsulated beds in
stores and even post offices. and out of which guests must
crawl as there is no room to
stand up. Rattan blinds or
Business Hotels curtains can be pulled across for
Many lower- and mid-range privacy. Usually constructed in
hotels in Tokyo fall into the two tiers, they cater mainly to
business category (bijinesu salarymen who are too tired
hoteru). Although they cater or inebriated to catch the last
mainly to budget-conscious train home. Most are clustered
Entrance to the 52-story Park Tower, Park business travelers, anyone around major train stations or
Hyatt Tokyo (see p112) can stay, and since they are nightlife areas. Facilities include
A rack full of colorful kimonos in a shop in Tokyo



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WHERE T O ST A Y  109


a personal TV, radio, alarm call expressways and highways,
system, and air-conditioning. much like motels. Dual pricing
Smoking is not allowed inside applies – typically ¥3,500 for a
the capsule, but there is usually two-hour rest, and ¥7,000–
a communal smoking room, ¥8,000 for an overnight stay,
usually with vending machines although the more luxury
selling beer, sake, soft drinks, places will charge more. Love
and sometimes snacks. hotels can be an affordable
Japanese-style baths and often way to stay in a relatively
saunas are included in the price; luxurious hotel, though some
sometimes bathing facilities caution is required. If you
can be surprisingly extensive, check in too early, you may
including jet massage and cold- be charged an hourly, rather
water pools. Most capsule than overnight, rate. The Sparse but pristine interior of a youth
hotels have TV lounges and overnight rate is usually only hostel in central Tokyo
restaurants selling Japanese available after 10pm, but this Recommended Hotels
food and beverages. Some depends on the hotel. As
even have small video arcades. with capsule hotels, it is only The hotels recommended in
The size of such hotels varies possible to check into a love these listings feature a wide
widely, ranging from 50 capsules hotel for one night at a time. selection to suit every budget
to over 600. Most still cater only Rooms are fairly spacious, and requirement. As well as
to men, but the number of clean, and with a private bath. the best and most luxurious
capsule hotels catering to Couples choose their room international deluxe hotels,
female guests is rising. These from a photo board, then pay ryokan (traditional Japanese
establishments usually have a either a cashier who sits behind inns) are also included, where a
women-only floor. Expect to a screen or at a machine. They relaxing soak in a thermal hot-
pay ¥3,500–¥5,000 in cash. It is then receive their key. English is spring bath is an unforgettable
only possible to check into a not usually spoken, and room part of the experience. For the
capsule hotel for one night at rates and payment instructions more budget-conscious traveler,
a time, although it is common are almost always in Japanese. there is a range of business
for people to stay for multiple Credit cards are not accepted. hotels to choose from and also
nights in a row. In this case, you minshuku (family-run B&Bs),
must check out in the morning often located away from the
and check in again later in the Youth Hostels city center. In Tokyo, a hotel
day. It is usually not possible to Cheap, clean, and open to isn’t just a place to spend the
store luggage at the reception. people of all ages, youth hostels night – it can also be a unique
in Tokyo are the cheapest part of the travel experience.
option for travelers. They do not So novel accommodation
Love Hotels usually require membership, options such as capsule and
Designed for dating couples and rates run from ¥2,500 to love hotels are included; as well
and married partners who live ¥4,000. Payment is in cash only. as being unusual, these places
with extended families and All meals come at an additional can also be good value for
feel in need of some privacy, cost. Many youth hostels have a money. The DK Choice identifies
love hotels are mainly found in curfew, so it is worth checking establishments that have one or
entertainment areas and along first if you may stay out late. more exceptional qualities, such
as featuring top-class amenities,
being great value for money, or
having unique style.
DIRECTORY
Jalan
∑ jalan.net/en/japan_
hotels_ryokan/
Japan Hotel Association
Tel (03) 3279-2706.
∑ j-hotel.or.jp/english
Japanese Inn Group
Tel (075) 708-7433.
∑ japaneseinngroup.com
For JNTO offices and website
see p159.
The East Lobby at the Mandarin Oriental Tokyo (see p112)




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110  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Traditional Accommodations Typical Rooms
Guestrooms are floored in tatami
A ryokan is a unique fusion of private and communal styles mats. Normally in one corner of
of living. Such Japanese traditions as removing shoes at the the room is an alcove, called
right point (see p161) are important, no matter what the cost tokonoma, which may contain a
of the room, and the most expensive of these traditional inns hanging scroll, flowers, or other
artifacts. There will also be a low
may demand a high level of etiquette. A family-run minshuku table surrounded by cushions
– a type of guesthouse – is an even more intimate way to (zabuton) or folding chairs. On
experience the Japanese lifestyle. There are also options the table top will be a tray,
that are ryokan at heart, but with Western-style touches, bearing a tea set and possibly
such as private bathrooms or beds rather than futons. wagashi sweets (see p128).
Your futon mattress and
bedding will be stowed in
cupboards when you first
enter the room. These will
usually be laid out discreetly
for you in the evening while
you are out of the room.
Ordinarily a room will be
further supplied with a TV, air
conditioner, and/or heater. There
is usually a telephone, although
it may not have an international
connection. You should also find
a small towel in a box or basket,
which you can take to the
communal bathroom to use as
The ryokan at Meguro Gajoen (see p115), a luxurious hotel in Tokyo a wash cloth. A personal out door
bath (rotenburo) counts as a
What is a Ryokan? is the Japanese tradition of luxury, but it is not uncommon
A ryokan is a traditional inn, living at floor level, using legless for there to be a small Western-
often associated with older chairs and beds. style shower in the bathroom,
towns or mountain and hot- Note that many ryokan which one can use as an
spring areas. While top-end impose a curfew around 11pm, alternative to the communal
Tokyo ryokan can be relied on to so check before you step out, bathing areas. A screened-off
have many of the traditional or make arrangements about veranda, with Western-style
graces found in their rural keys in advance if you plan to table and armchairs, is also
counterparts, mid-range ryokan, stay out late. common place.
with modern touches and As is the case everywhere in
conveniences, can be a little Japan, you should walk only in
different. Some are set in Edo- Arriving at a Ryokan bare feet or socks on the tatami.
period buildings – confections Guests usually check into a
of wood, glass, bamboo, paper ryokan in the mid- to late Wearing Yukata
screens, and tatami matting. afternoon, to allow plenty of
Certain important Japanese time for bathing and dinner. Somewhere in the room will
customs apply. The greatest At larger ryokan, there may be be traditional robes (yukata)
surprise for many foreigners a doorman to smooth the way, for you to wear. Most people
is that bathing facilities are but in smaller establishments, change into yukata for the
traditionally communal, not guests should slide open the duration of their stay, since
private. They may also be quite front door and politely call the loose-cotton kimonos
elaborate, and when it is part of “gomen kudasai” to announce
a hot-spring resort, the estab- their arrival.
lishment is called an onsen. At this point, the okamisan
Most ryokan place emphasis (female owner or manager)
on the quality of their meals, usually appears, often dressed
and the room price often in an attractive kimono; this is
includes breakfast and dinner. the signal to remove outdoor
This can be ideal in quiet areas shoes and step into a pair of
where few restaurants are open waiting house slippers (see
in the evening, but a constraint p161). Before entering the
elsewhere. guestroom, remove the
Another possible problem, house slippers and leave Room with tatami mats, low table, and
mainly for elderly foreigners, them outside the door. zabuton, plus a Western-style daybed




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WHERE T O ST A Y  111


the okamisan may stay for a
while, explaining the dishes,
demonstrating how they should
be eaten, and chatting; or she
may leave discreetly, returning
only to clear the table.

Staying in a Minshuku
or Pension
A minshuku is a family-run
pension that is opened to
travelers as and when demand
requires. With rates ranging
from ¥5,000 to ¥9,000, this is
Small communal bath and separate low shower for cleansing an economical option, as well as
a good opportunity to see how
symbolize relaxation and leisure hot bath until you are clean. The people live. The atmosphere is
time. In resort towns and hot bath itself is intended only for more homely; guests are treated
springs, they are even worn relaxation. The same bathwater as part of the family at meal-
outside on the streets, together is used by other guests; thus it times and bathtime, and they
with the high wooden sandals is considered extremely bad should fold up and stow away
called geta. A loose jacket may manners to contaminate it their own bedding.
also be provided during the either with an unwashed body Western-style pensions are
colder months. It is best to or soap and shampoo. A wash also popular. Located mostly
follow the example of others cloth is often used for modesty in resort areas, they are rustic
as to exactly where and when purposes while walking around and relaxed in style and offer
to wear the robes. the bathing area, but this good, hearty meals. Generally
Fold yukata left-side over should be placed on the managed by married couples,
right, as right-side over left is shoulder of the bath when they fall somewhere between
the way a kimono is traditionally you actually enter the water. a minshuku and the more
folded when a corpse is being service-oriented pamperings
dressed for burial or cremation. of a small hotel.
Use the obi sash provided to Eating Arrangements
secure the gown. Meals are sometimes served
in a dining room, but more Temple Lodgings
often in the room by a maid Staying at a shukubo (on the
Bathing Arrangements
or the okamisan. The more grounds of a temple) is a great
Within the ryokan will be at least exclusive the establishment, way to experience Japanese
one communal bath; high-end the more likely it is that meals culture, but this is mostly
establishments often have will be served in private. confined to areas beyond
multiple baths, saunas, water-jet Meal times are usually set Tokyo; see Temple Lodging
massage pools, and even an quite early in the evening. in Japan for details. Shukubo
attractive Japanese-style garden Depending on the situation, are more than just places to
to admire while you bathe. stay, and many encourage their
In smaller ryokan with only guests to join zazen meditation
one bath, bathing times may sessions or participate in other
differ for men and women. In spiritual activities. There is also
larger establishments, bathing is a chance to try shojin ryori,
segregated, with one entrance Japan’s unique, vegetarian
for men and another for temple cuisine.
women. Mixed-sex bathing is
very rare these days. The size of DIRECTORY
the bath and bathroom
naturally dictates how many Japan Ryokan and Hotel
people can bathe at any one Association
time. Check with the okamisan if Tel (03) 3231-5310. ∑ ryokan.or.jp
you are unsure about the house Japanese Guest Houses
rules. In the bathroom, there will Tel (072) 756-6242.
be an area for undressing, a low
shower or tap area, and the ∑ japaneseguesthouses.com
large bath itself. The golden rule Temple Lodging in Japan
to observe is that you must People wearing yukata, the design of which ∑ templelodging.com
shower first and not enter the is often specific to each ryokan




110-111_EW_Tokyo.indd 111 12/09/16 11:24 am

112  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

Hotel Parkside ¥¥¥ Price Guide
Deluxe Hotels 2-11-18 Ueno, Taito-ku Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Central Tokyo Tel (03) 3836-5711 Map 3 C3 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
∑ parkside.co.jp
Imperial Hotel ¥¥¥ This elegant, sophisticated hotel ¥ under ¥8,000
1-1-1 Uchisawaicho, Chiyoda-ku has fabulous views of Ueno Park ¥¥ ¥8,000–¥20,000
Tel (03) 3504-1111 Map 5 B2 and the famous Shinobazu Pond. ¥¥¥ over ¥20,000
∑ imperialhotel.co.jp/e/tokyo
First opened in 1890, the Imperial Western Tokyo Shibuya Excel Hotel Tokyu ¥¥¥
is one of Tokyo’s oldest and most Shibuya Mark City Building,
prestigious hotels. Shinjuku Washington Hotel ¥¥ 1-12-2 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku
3-2-9 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku Tel (03) 5457-0109 Map 1 B5
InterContinental Tokyo Bay ¥¥¥ Tel (03) 3343-3111 Map 1 A2 ∑ tokyuhotelsjapan.com/en/hotel/
1-16-2 Kaigan, Minato-ku ∑ shinjuku.washington-hotels.jp TE/TE_SHIBU
Tel (03) 5404-2222 Map 5 B5 This efficient hotel features Overlooking Shibuya’s famous
∑ interconti-tokyo.com a 24-hour convenience store intersection, this reasonably priced
Guests here enjoy stunning views for any late-night needs. hotel is comfortable and modern.
of landmarks such as the Tokyo
SkyTree and the Rainbow Bridge. Grand Hyatt Tokyo ¥¥¥ Farther Afield
6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato-ku
Mandarin Oriental Tokyo ¥¥¥ Tel (03) 4333-1234 Map 2 E5 Hilton Tokyo Odaiba ¥¥¥
2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo-ku ∑ tokyo.grand.hyatt.com 1-9-1 Daiba, Minato-ku
Tel (03) 3270-8800 Map 5 C1 The modern rooms here have Tel (03) 5500-5500
∑ mandarinoriental.com/tokyo an uncluttered Japanese vibe. A ∑ hilton.com/en/hotels/japan/hilton-
Tokyo’s most luxurious hotel has peaceful haven in the hectic city. tokyo-odaiba-TYOTOHI/index.html
fantastic views, a renowned spa, The rooms are comfortable and
and impeccable service. Hilton Tokyo ¥¥¥ reasonably priced, with great views
6-6-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku and plush leisure facilities.
The Palace Hotel ¥¥¥ Tel (03) 3344-5111 Map 1 A1
1-1-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku ∑ hilton.com/en/hotels/japan/ The Westin Tokyo ¥¥¥
Tel (03) 3211-5211 Map 5 B1 hilton-tokyo-TYOHITW/index.html 1-4-1 Mita, Meguro-ku
∑ en.palacehoteltokyo.com A stylish and comfortable hotel, Tel (03) 5423-7000
The decor in the spacious rooms with the added benefit of being ∑ westin-tokyo.co.jp/en
is inspired by the Imperial Palace. next to Shinjuku’s Chuo-koen Park. All rooms here are decorated in
The hotel also has a luxury spa. European design; suites have views
Keio Plaza Hotel ¥¥¥ over the skyline. Lovely garden.
Peninsula Hotel Tokyo ¥¥¥ 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
1-8-1 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku Tel (03) 3344-0111 Map 1 A2
Tel (03) 6270-2888 Map 5 B2 ∑ keioplaza.com Beyond Tokyo
∑ tokyo.peninsula.com/en/default Choose from a range of restaurants Hilton Tokyo Narita
A sophisticated hotel close to the and bars at this reasonably priced Airport Hotel ¥¥¥
Imperial Palace. The spa facilities hotel. Specialty Hello Kitty rooms 456 Kosuge, Narita, Chiba Prefecture
are highly regarded. avail able for fans of the brand. Tel (0476) 33-1121
∑ hilton.com/en/hotels/japan/
The Tokyo Station Hotel ¥¥¥ DK Choice hilton-tokyo-narita-airport-NRTHIHI/
1-9-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku index.html
Tel (03) 5220-1111 Map 5 C1 Park Hyatt Tokyo ¥¥¥ Located close to the Narita Airport,
∑ thetokyostationhotel.jp 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku this hotel is a good base from which
History and elegance prevail at Tel (03) 5322-1234 Map 1 A2 to explore the Boso Peninsula.
this 1915 hotel, located inside the ∑ tokyo.park.hyatt.com
iconic Tokyo Station building. The legendary Park Hyatt, the
setting for the famous film
Northern Tokyo Lost in Translation, is one of
the most luxurious and best-
Asakusa View Hotel ¥¥¥ located hotels in Tokyo.
3-17-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku Boasting fine views of Shinjuku’s
Tel (03) 3847-1111 Map 4 E2 Chuo-koen Park, it also has
∑ viewhotels.co.jp/asakusa/english excellent pool and spa facilities.
The comfortable rooms here have The on-site New York Bar and
views of old and new Tokyo – from Grill is a popular spot.
Senso-ji Temple to the SkyTree.
The Gate Hotel The Ritz Carlton Tokyo ¥¥¥
Kaminarimon ¥¥¥ Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-1 Akasaka,
2-16-11 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku Minato-ku
Tel (03) 5826-3877 Map 4 E3 Tel (03) 3423-8000 Map 2 E4
∑ gate-hotel.jp ∑ ritzcarlton.com/tokyo
The chic modern design of this Located in Tokyo Midtown,
hotel contrasts with the nearby this hotel is one of the city’s The building housing the Mandarin Oriental
ancient Senso-ji Temple. more swanky developments. Hotel at dusk
112-115_EW_Tokyo.indd 112 12/09/16 11:24 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  113

Hyatt Regency Hakone
Resort and Spa ¥¥¥
1320 Gora, Hakone-Machi,
Ashigarashimo-gun
Tel (0460) 82-2000
∑ hakone.regency.hyatt.com/en/
hotel/home.html
In one of Japan’s best-known
onsen (hot-spring) resort towns,
this Hyatt has two large on-site
pools where visitors can soak in
the thermal, sulphate-rich waters.
InterContinental
The Grand Yokohama ¥¥¥
1-1-1 Minato Mirai, Nishi-ku, Yokohama Understated elegance at the Tokyo Station Hotel (see p112)
Tel (045) 223-2222
∑ interconti.co.jp/yokohama/en/ Ochanomizu St. Hills Hotel ¥¥ Hotel Sunroute Plaza
index.html 2-1-19 Yushima, Bunkyo-ku Shinjuku ¥¥
The luxurious rooms here feature Tel (03) 3831-0081 Map 3 B4 2-3-1 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku
all modern conveniences and offer ∑ sthills.co.jp Tel (03) 3375-3211 Map 1 B2
great views of Yokohama Harbor. A friendly, no-frills hotel in one of ∑ en.sunrouteplazashinjuku.jp
the quieter parts of central Tokyo, This hotel has modest-sized rooms
Kamakura Prince Hotel ¥¥¥ with well-furnished rooms and with large beds. Easy access to
1-2-18 Shichirigahama-Higashi, Wi-Fi. Complimentary breakfast. shopping and dining in Shinjuku.
Kamakura, Kanagawa Prefecture
Tel (0467) 32-1111 remm Akihabara ¥¥ Kadoya Hotel ¥¥
∑ princehotels.com/en/kamakura 1-6-5 Kanda Sakumacho, Chiyoda-ku 1-23-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
This classy resort hotel has ocean Tel (03) 3254-0606 Map 3 C4 Tel (03) 3346-2561 Map 1 A1
views, a large outdoor swimming ∑ remm.jp/akihabara ∑ kadoya-hotel.co.jp/eng
pool, and a golf driving range. This modern hotel offers a range All rooms here have memory-
of services, including massages. foam mattresses and pillows.
Rooms are spacious. Close to Shinjuku Station.
Business Hotels Super Hotel Asakusa ¥¥ Shibuya Hotel EN ¥¥¥
Central Tokyo 2-33-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku Map 4 F2 1-1 Maruyama-cho, Shibuya-ku
Tel (03) 5489-1010
Map 1 A5
Tel (03) 5806-9000
APA Hotel Tsukiji-Eki-Minami ¥¥ ∑ superhoteljapan.com/en/ ∑ shibuyahotel.jp/en
7-10-11 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku s-hotels/asakusa The rooms here are business
Tel (03) 3549-0111 Map 5 C3 A modern hotel in an old Tokyo hotel-sized but ele gantly
∑ apahotel.com neighborhood and close to the decorated in themes such as
Stay at this stylish and modern sights. Good quality breakfast. Old Folk House and Oriental.
business hotel located close
to key tourist attractions. Ueno First City Hotel ¥¥ Farther Afield
1-14-8 Ueno, Taito-ku
Business Hotel Ban ¥¥ Tel (03) 3831-8215 Map 3 C3 The b Ikebukuro ¥¥
3-17-10 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku ∑ uenocity-hotel.com 1-39-4 Higashi-Ikebukuro Toshima-ku
Tel (03) 3543-8411 Map 5 C3 Set in one of the more lively Tel (03) 3980-1911
∑ hotelban.co.jp neigh borhoods, this hotel has ∑ ikebukuro.theb-hotels.com/en
This hotel has clean, functional simple rooms with basic This is a smart business hotel
rooms with basic facilities. amenities. located in Ikebukuro, a lively
Breakfast is included. district little visited by tourists.
Ginza Grand Hotel ¥¥ Western Tokyo Kichijoji Tokyu Rei Hotel ¥¥
8-16-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku Akasaka Yoko Hotel ¥¥ 1-6-3, Kichijoji-Minamicho,
Tel (03) 3572-4131 Map 5 B3 6-14-12 Akasaka, Minato-ku Musashino-shi
∑ ginzagrand.com Tel (03) 3586-4050 Map 2 E4 Tel (0422) 47-0109
Perfect for the business traveler ∑ yokohotel.co.jp/english/ ∑ kichijoji.tokyuhotels.com
staying in Ginza, this hotel offers index.html This contemporary hotel has
stylish “urban rooms” designed The modest-sized rooms at this good-sized, well-maintained
for functionality and relaxation. hotel range from business to rooms. The on-site restaurant
single, double, and family options. is popular. Good service.
Located in a quiet part of Tokyo.
Northern Tokyo
Hotel Marutani ¥¥ Citadines Central Shinjuku Beyond Tokyo
6-7-6 Ueno, Taito-ku Tokyo ¥¥ West Inn Fujiyoshida ¥¥
Tel (03) 3831-4308 Map 3 C3 1-2-9 Kabuki-cho, Shinjuku-ku Matsuyama 1205, Fujiyoshida,
∑ hotel-marutani.com Tel (03) 3200-0220 Map 1 B1 Yamanashi Prefecture
The Marutani offers its guests ∑ citadines.com/en/japan/tokyo/ Tel (0555) 23-8465
the option of staying in either shinjuku.html ∑ westinn.jp
Japanese-style tatami rooms This bright, modern place offers This stylish hotel offers large
or Western rooms. With guests a cross between a hotel rooms, most of them featuring
communal baths. room and a serviced apartment. breathtaking views of Mt. Fuji.
For more information on types of hotels see page 109
112-115_EW_Tokyo.indd 113 12/09/16 11:24 am

114  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Farther Afield
Capsules and DK Choice Private Hotel Aroma
Love Hotels Green Plaza Shinjuku ¥ (Ikebukuro) ¥¥
1-29-2 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku 2-64-7 Ikebukuro, Toshima-ku
Central Tokyo Tel (03) 3207-5411 Map 1 B1 Tel (03) 3988-0890
∑ hgpshinjuku.jp/en/ ∑ hotelaroma.jp
Capsule Value Kanda ¥ Tokyo’s first ever capsule hotel This classy love hotel in the heart
1-4-5, Kajicho, Chiyoda-ku is now the largest in Japan, of Ikebukuro boasts a range
Tel (03) 6206-0724 Map 5 B1 with 630 small but surprisingly of attractive rooms such as
Run by English-speaking staff, comfortable capsules. The Oriental, Japanese, and Balinese.
this capsule hotel offers a range Green Plaza also offers sauna,
of business facilities at no hot-spring, and massage
additional cost, including facilities. English-speaking staff.
access to computers and Wi-Fi. Minshuku,
Pensions & Hostels
First Cabin Akihabara ¥ Ishino Spa Roppongi VIVI
3-38 Kandasakumacho, Chiyoda-ku Capsule Hotel ¥ Central Tokyo
Tel (03) 6240-9798 Map 4 D4 Roi Building, 4F, 5-5-1 Roppongi,
The decor at this hotel is inspired Minato-ku Anne Hostel Asakusabashi ¥
by airplane cabins. There are two Tel (03) 3403-4126 Map 2 E5 2-21-14 Yanagibashi, Taito-ku
types of room available: first-class Situated just a few minutes from Tel (03) 5829-9090 Map 4 E4
and the smaller business-class. Roppongi Station, this is the ∑ j-hostel.com/asakusabashi
perfect capsule hotel for those This is a good option for low-
Northern Tokyo wanting to party until late. budget travelers wanting to stay
in central Tokyo. It offers tatami
Capsule Hotel Asakusa Shinjuku Kuyakushomae rooms, dorms, and private rooms.
River Side ¥ Capsule Hotel ¥
2-20-4 Kaminarimon, Taito-ku 1-2-5 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku Northern Tokyo
Tel (03) 3844-5117 Map 4 F3 Tel (03) 3232-1110 Map 1 B1
Located near Asakusa Station, this This well-located capsule hotel Khaosan Tokyo Laboratory ¥
no-frills capsule hotel also accepts offers its guests a spacious 2-1-4 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku
female guests; the eighth floor is bathing area and sauna. Tel (03) 6479-1041 Map 4 E3
reserved exclusively for women. ∑ khaosan-tokyo.com
Bali An Island ¥¥ Colorful rooms have a pop-art
Sauna and Capsule 2-22-10 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku theme here. There are both
Hotel Dandy ¥ Tel (0120) 759-184 Map 1 B1 shared dorms and private rooms.
Egg Bldg, 6F, 2-6-11 Ueno, Taito-ku ∑ balian.jp The staff speak good English.
Tel (03) 3839-8100 Map 3 C3 Modeled on a Balinese holiday
Guests here enjoy excellent resort, this love hotel is popular Retrometro Backpackers ¥
bathing facilities, including an with young Japanese couples. 2-19-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku
open-air bath and natural-wood The first-floor lobby has a pool Tel (03) 6322-7447 Map 4 E2
sauna, plus a good restaurant. table, darts, and a bar. Unlike ∑ retrometrobackpackers.com
other love hotels, Bali An Island This small, friendly hostel with
Western Tokyo also welcomes parties of four. dorm rooms only is located in an
old, restored Japanese-style house.
Capsule and Sauna Hotel Grand Chariot ¥¥
Century Shibuya ¥ 2-6-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku Sakura Hotel Jimbocho ¥
1-19-14 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku Tel (03) 3208-0005 Map 1 B1 2-21-4 Kanda-Jimbocho
Tel (03) 3464-1777 Map 1 A5 ∑ grandchariot.jp Tel (03) 3261-3939 Map 3 A5
Enjoy a unique Japanese Guests can indulge in pure love- ∑ sakura-hotel.co.jp/jimbocho
experience at this no-frills hotel chic at this hotel close to Rooms and dorms are simple,
hotel with larger-sized Shinjuku Station. Modern rooms but with free Wi-Fi. A good
capsules on the tenth floor. have mood lighting. option for low-budget travelers.
Hotel Roppongi ¥¥ Toco. Tokyo Heritage Hostel ¥
7-19-4 Roppongi, Minato-ku 2-13-21 Shitaya, Taito-ku
Tel (03) 3403-1571 Map 2 E5 Tel (03) 6458-1686 Map 4 D1
In the heart of Roppongi, this ∑ backpackersjapan.co.jp
attractive love hotel offers Located in a traditional house
a variety of themed rooms, with an attractive Japanese-style
including Edwardian chic and garden, this hostel offers a cheap
traditional Japanese style. night’s rest in quiet Ueno.
Hotel Villa Giulia ¥¥ Farther Afield
2-27-8 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku
Tel (03) 3770-7781 Map 1 A5 Guest House Shinagawa-shuku ¥
∑ hotenavi.com/vgiulia/index.html 1-22-16 Kita-Shinagawa,
This love hotel in Shibuya has Shinagawa-ku
decent-sized modern rooms. Tel (03) 6712-9440
To check in, push a button, ∑ bp-shinagawashuku.com
take a slip for your room, then This reasonably priced hostel
The entrance to Homeikan Honkan, follow the spoken (Japanese) offers tidy and minimalist
a ryokan in northern Tokyo (see p115) instructions for payment. Japanese-style rooms.
Key to Price Guide see page 112

112-115_EW_Tokyo.indd 114 12/09/16 11:24 am

WHERE T O ST A Y  115

Meg Econo Inn Tokyo ¥
1-56-28 Matsubara, Setagaya-ku
Tel (03) 3322-5546
∑ meg-econoinn-tokyo.com
A quaint minshuku that offers
both Western- and Japanese-
style rooms. Friendly staff.
Tama Ryokan ¥
1-25-33 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku-ku
Tel (03) 3209-8062
∑ tamaryokan.com
This family-run minshuku
offers basic accommodation.
All rooms are on the second
floor, and there is no elevator.
Beyond Tokyo Green Plaza Shinjuku, Tokyo’s first capsule hotel (see p114)
Akari no Yado Villa Revage ¥¥ Ryokan Sawanoya ¥¥ Beyond Tokyo
1800 Kujira-machi, Nikko-shi, 2-3-11 Yanaka, Taito-ku Kurhaus Ishibashi Ryokan ¥¥
Tochigi-ken Tel (03) 3822-2251 Map 3 B2 185-1 Rendaiji, Shimoda,
Tel (0288) 53-6188 ∑ sawanoya.com Shizuoka Prefecture
∑ nikko.or.jp/revage/english This family-run ryokan has Tel (0558) 22-2222
This attractive pension, with both comfortable, reasonably priced ∑ kur-ishibashi.com
Japanese- and Western-style rooms and a library of English This 140-year-old ryokan has
rooms, also has an outdoor onsen. books. Close to Ueno Park. Western-style rooms and en-suite
bathrooms. Good seafood dinners.
B&B paSeo ¥¥ Sukeroku no Yado
1320-634 Gora, Hakone-machi, Sadachiyo ¥¥ Nikko Green Hotel, Fuwari ¥¥
Ashigarashimo-gun 2-20-1 Asakusa, Taito-ku 9 Honcho, Nikko, Tochigi Prefecture
Tel (0460) 82-6100 Tel (03) 3842-6431 Map 4 E2 Tel (0288) 54-2002
∑ hakone-paseo.com ∑ sadachiyo.co.jp ∑ nikko-fuwari.com
This Japanese-style B&B with This elaborate ryokan is decorated This traditional ryokan has an
beautiful, manicured grounds is in traditional style. There are two attractive onsen bathing area.
attached to a florist and tearoom. shared public bathrooms. Spacious and well-furnished rooms.
Fuji Hakone Guesthouse ¥¥ Ryokan Ryumeikan Fuji Lake Hotel ¥¥¥
912 Sengokuhara, Hakone-machi, Honten ¥¥¥ 1 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko-cho,
Ashigarashimo-gun 3-4 Kanda Surugadai, Chiyoda-ku Minamitsuru-gun
Tel (0460) 84-6577 Tel (03) 3251-1135 Map 3 B4 Tel (0555) 72-2209
Stay in tatami rooms and enjoy the ∑ ryumeikan-honten.jp ∑ fujilake.co.jp
outdoor onsen at this guesthouse Founded in 1899, this historic A cross between a ryokan and
in a tranquil part of Hakone. ryokan offers guests a traditional a deluxe hotel, this place offers
experience – the room decor is great views of Mt. Fuji.
Gasthof Ami ¥¥ inspired by the tea ceremony
100 Kujira-machi, Nikko-shi, in the Edo period. Japanese Hakone Setsugetsuka ¥¥¥
Tochigi-ken breakfast is available. 1300-34 Gora, Hakone-machi,
Tel (0288) 53-2611 Ashigarashimo-gun
This cute, faux European-style Farther Afield Tel (0460) 861-333
pension offers good breakfasts Overlooking the Hakone
and has an outdoor Japanese bath. Wakana ¥¥ mountains, this luxury ryokan
4-7 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku-ku has elaborate Japanese-style
Tel (03) 3260-3769 baths – some on the balconies.
Located on a narrow, stone-
Ryokan paved lane in Kagurazaka, Shimoda Central Hotel ¥¥¥
Tokyo’s stylish old geisha quarter, 133-1 Aitama, Shimoda-shi,
Northern Tokyo this small ryokan is also known Shizuoka Prefecture
Homeikan Honkan ¥¥ as the “writers’ inn,” since many Tel (0558) 28-1126
5-10-5 Hongo, Bunkyo-ku famous Japanese authors have ∑ shimoda-central-hotel.co.jp
Tel (03) 3811-1181 Map 3 A3 stayed here. Located among rice fields, this
∑ homeikan.com is a luxury, resort-style ryokan.
This stylish and peaceful Meguro Gajoen ¥¥¥ Guests can relax in the pool or
wooden ryokan has a beautiful 1-8-1 Shimo-Meguro, Meguro-ku keep active on the tennis court.
manicured Japanese garden. Tel (03) 3491-4111
∑ megurogajoen.co.jp Sunnide Resort ¥¥¥
Ryokan Katsutaro ¥¥ Located in one of Tokyo’s 2549-1 Oishi, Fujikawaguchiko-
4-16-8 Ikenohata, Taito-ku more upmarket neighbor- machi, Minamitsuru-gun
Tel (03) 3821-9808 Map 3 C2 hoods, this is a luxurious Tel (0555) 76-6004
∑ katsutaro.com ryokan. Guests can opt to ∑ sunnide.com
This is a no-frills but cosy stay in Japanese- or Western- View Mt. Fuji from the comfort
ryokan located close to style rooms; the latter have of an onsen bath at this luxury
Ueno Park. Ideal for families. a tatami seating area. resort beside Kawaguchiko Lake.
For more information on types of hotels see page 109

112-115_EW_Tokyo.indd 115 12/09/16 11:24 am

116  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Tokyo is one of the major gourmet cities in does not have to be exorbitant. There are
the world, known not only for its sushi and numerous mid- or low-end diners; noodle
other Japanese delicacies, but also for the shops abound, as do fast-food restaurants
remarkable variety of foreign cuisines. (both Western and local); and, if pressed for
Humble taverns or grills that have been in time and money, you can pick up snacks in
business for centuries nestle side by side with supermarkets, convenience stores, and mid-
gleaming high-rise malls lined with delis and range restaurants clustered around train
markets serving foods from around the world. stations. Wherever you go, standards of
The quality of meals at high-end restaurants service and cleanliness are invariably high.
is matched by their prices, but eating out It is hard to get a bad meal in Tokyo.

Reservations and Prices and Paying
Dress Code
Tokyo has restaurants to suit all
Reservations are advisable at budgets. You can slurp a bowl
top restaurants in Tokyo and of noodles for less than ¥500 or
essential at the most exclusive spend an entire week’s budget
dining places. Elsewhere, you on a single meal. Many upscale
can usually find a table without restaurants that might charge
a reservation, especially if you ¥10,000–¥20,000 per head at
arrive early in the evening. dinner often have economical
Some restaurants won’t allow lunch menus for ¥3,000–¥5,000.
phone reservations, but if you A consumption tax of 8
show up in person and no percent is included in the price,
tables are free, they will put but many Western restaurants
your name on a list and call add a service charge, too. Some
you when a space opens up. traditional Japanese eateries
There is no dress code in serve an obligatory starter
Japan for eating at restaurants, (otoshi) in lieu of a table charge.
though women may find long, At coffee shops and many
loose clothing advantageous restaurants, the bill is placed on
Savoring a sushi meal at a restaurant when dining at a place with your table. Just take it to the
in Jingumae zashiki (low platform) seating. cashier to pay. At some bars and
Also, be sure to wear clean restaurants you will be asked to
Meals and Meal Times socks or stockings without pay at your table. The amount,
Most ryokan (see p110) and holes if seating on tatami written on a slip of paper, will
some hotels serve a traditional mats is involved, as you will be presented to you on a small
Japanese breakfast from 7 until have to take off your shoes. tray. Place your payment (cash
9am. If your hotel doesn’t, you or card) on this tray; your
will easily find a nearby café Set Menus (Teishoku) change will be returned on
serving coffee and crois sants or the same tray. Tipping is not
Danish pastries. When Japanese Most restaurants in Tokyo expected and may be refused.
eat breakfast out, they usually offer fixed-price menus
do so in coffee shops that serve called teishoku. These can
sets called moningu (morning), be especially good value at
consisting of coffee, toast, a lunchtime. Usually there will
hard-boiled egg, and a small be a number of menu choices.
salad. However, breakfast is not Some restaurants have
a major meal in modern Tokyo. window displays with realistic-
Tokyoites tend to eat lunch looking plastic models of
early. Typically, lunch runs their dishes, or menus with
from 11:30am to 2:30pm, and photographs. Point to an item
dinner starts at 5:30 or 6pm. if you do not know its name.
Although some upscale At many noodle restaurants,
restaurants stop serving at Japanese curry shops, and basic
9 or 10pm, most stay open diners or shokudo, it may be
until around 11 or 11:30pm necessary to obtain a ticket
(later still in areas such as from the vending machine
Roppongi) to cater to the at the entrance before you Realistic-looking plastic-food display in a
after-hours office crowd. place an order. restaurant window




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  117

Entering a are also impolite. Chopsticks
Restaurant or Bar should never be stuck upright
A set of noren (half-curtains) into bowls of rice or other
outside the door indicates that food; and food should never
a restaurant is open for business. be passed from one set of
Duck past the curtain, slide chopsticks to another. These
open the door, and pause at the gestures are associated with
threshold. If you do not have a funerary customs and are
reservation, indicate how many taboo at the dinner table.
people are in your group by When not using them, lay
raising the appropriate number your chopsticks on the rest
of fingers. In some restaurants, (hashi-oki) provided, or across
you may be asked to remove the lowest dish, keeping them
your shoes. Slippers will be uncrossed and parallel with
provided for walking around your side of the table.
on the wooden floor areas, or
if you need to use the toilet. Enjoying a meal while sitting on zabuton
Many Japanese restaurants in cushions at a low table Recommended
Restaurants
Tokyo offer Western-style tables
and chairs, plus counter seating to say “gochiso-sama deshita” The listings in this guide cover
looking into the open kitchen. (“it was a feast”). Calling the rich and diverse spectrum
They may also have traditional “sumimasen” (“excuse me!”) of different cuisines available
seating, or zashiki. This involves is the standard method of in Tokyo, from fine-dining
sitting at low tables on thin attracting the waiter’s attention. kaiseki restaurants serving
cushions (zabuton) on tatami Japanese drinking etiquette elegant banquets of beautifully
mats. Shoes and slippers are requires that you pour for the arranged traditional food to
never worn on tatami mats. other person and vice versa. hole-in-the-wall noodle
Women often sit with their legs When on the receiving end, pick restaurants where you can slurp
to the side, mermaid-style; the up your glass, supporting the some of Tokyo’s best ramen.
most common position for men bottom with the other hand. Eateries serving classics such
is cross-legged. The Japanese When a toast (kanpai) is made, as tempura, nabe, yakitori, and
don’t expect foreign guests to beer and whiskey glasses tonkatsu are well covered, as
sit in these positions, but it is ill- should be clinked; with sake, are the places to sample
mannered to stretch your legs cups are raised in a salute. monjayaki, the local version
out under a low table. Special Japanese meals often of okinomiyaki, the Japanese
chairs with backs but no legs comprise numerous courses, pancake you cook at your own
are often provided, or there may each served in separate bowls table. World foods haven’t been
be leg wells under the tables. or plates. In formal situations, left out as they are a big part
The counter is a great each person will have his own of eating out in Japan’s most
place to sit, especially in sushi individual vessels; more international city. The DK Choice
restaurants, since it gives prime informally, you serve yourself option identifies restaurants
views of the chefs preparing the from shared bowls in the that are especially good for a
food. Smoking is discouraged at middle of the table. Do not particular reason, be it a unique
seats close to the kitchen. Many eat from communal bowls, cultural location, such as a
Japanese restaurants have non- but transfer a few bite-sized former sumo stable turned
smoking sections, but only a portions onto a small plate in into a restaurant, or the chef’s
few are entirely non-smoking. front of you, using the serving novel take on traditional
chopsticks, if provided. Japanese cuisine.
It is quite acceptable to pick
Food Customs, up small bowls (such as rice
Etiquette and Taboos bowls) and hold them halfway
After they are seated, diners to the mouth. Soup is slurped
are often given oshibori, or directly from the bowl, but any
small damp towels. These are solid morsels should be picked
used to wipe hands (not the out with chopsticks (hashi).
face and neck), and then left If a morsel proves too difficult
on the table top for dabbing to handle, you can hold a
fingers and spills; do not place chopstick in each hand and
them on your lap. Never blow make a sawing motion to cut it.
your nose into the oshibori or Do not use chopsticks to
even a handkerchief in public. spear food, or to push it
The Japanese say “itadakimasu” straight from the bowl into
(“I humbly receive”) before the mouth. Gesturing and Delicacies including maki-zushi at the
eating; on leaving, it is polite pointing with your chopsticks counter in a Tokyo sushi bar




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118  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Types of Restaurants and Bars Specialty Restaurants
Tempura, sukiyaki, teppanyaki,
Tokyo has a wide range of restaurants to suit every taste and tonkatsu are generally
and budget, from hole-in-the-wall noodle stands to havens served at restaurants that focus
of refinement serving formal kaiseki banquets, not to on each particular genre. Other
mention fine French, Italian, and Chinese cuisines. Most areas of specialization worth
investigating include yakitori
Japanese restaurants tend to specialize in specific genres, (charcoal-grilled skewers of
such as sushi, sukiyaki, or tempura, or even in individual chicken), unagi (grilled eel), and
ingredients such as tofu and fugu (poison blowfish). nabe (winter hotpots cooked
at the table). Also worth trying
is okonomiyaki, the Japanese-
style pancake that comes in
either Osaka or Hiroshima style.
Tokyo also has its own version
(mojayaki), which is softer and
very tasty. Fugu restaurants
serve up the delight of the
adventurous gourmet, the
poisonous blowfish. Japanese-
style curry is also popular as a
cheap and tasty lunch, and it
can be ordered with a range of
interesting toppings, including
cheese, sausages, and pork.

Sushi Restaurants
Re-created traditional warehouse (kura), Gonpachi restaurant, Ginza
Sushi restaurants (see pp126–7)
Kaiseki Ryori
is the “dining bar.” The approach vary greatly in style, from low-
Japan’s traditional haute cuisine, is similar to that of an izakaya priced kaiten-zushi shops, where
kaiseki ryori is derived from the but with plenty of French and the sushi comes to you on a
food served to accompany tea Italian influences. conveyor belt, to astronomically
ceremonies, developed in Kyoto Cheap izakaya seem to be expensive places where
some 500 years ago. A typical more and more present around everything – from the fish to the
banquet comprises numerous Tokyo, many of them part of ginger – is of optimum quality.
small courses, each exquisitely large national chains. They As a general rule, if there are no
arranged, served in a prescribed may offer an all-you-can-drink prices listed anywhere, it will be
order, and with careful reference deal, known as nomihoudai, expensive. At expensive sushi
to the season. Typically, kaiseki with a fixed price for alcoholic restaurants it is usually best to
meals are served with great drinks, or tabehoudai, or all-you- go for an omakase, which means
formality in elegant restaurants can-eat, which can be good the chef can decide what sushi
(sometimes known as ryoriya), or value for money if you are to serve; that way you will get
at ryotei, discreet establishments in the mood to consume a the best ingredients and freshest
with courtyard gardens and lot in a short space of time. fish available on any given day.
spare but elegant private rooms.
Izakaya and Dining Bars
Izakaya are down-to-earth
places where you eat as you
drink (rather than vice versa),
ordering a few dishes at a time.
At their most basic, these are
budget taverns, identified by
raucous, smoke-filled interiors,
and battered red lanterns by
the front door. Others are more
refined, and may serve food
of considerable quality. Many
have large platters of pre-
cooked items on their counter
tops to pick from. A similar
genre, now common in Tokyo, Counter seating looking into the open kitchen at a sushi restaurant, Ginza




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  119

Vegetarian Food on a hotplate with a rich
Although traditional Japanese demi-glace gravy sauce on
cuisine includes plenty of top. Most family restaurants
vegetables and high-protein are large national chains, for
soyfoods such as tofu and natto example Volks or Gasuto, and
(fermented soybeans), it is not a have very reasonably priced
vegetarian’s paradise, as most beer and wine.
dishes are cooked in a fish- At the high end, Tokyo boasts
based stock (dashi). However, French and Italian cuisine to
shojin ryori restaurants tend to rival the finest in Europe and
use kelp and mushroom stock North America. There are also
instead. Shojin ryori, which numerous budget bistros and
literally means “devotion food,” trattorias of remarkable
developed along with Zen authenticity. Spanish food is
Buddhism in the 12th century catching on fast, and German-
and is a type of vegetarian style food can be found in
temple food. Meals can range beer halls, which are popular
from elaborate – and just as places to drink. The British Isles
expensive – banquets similar A cozy noodle bar with compact outdoor are well represented by many
to kaiseki (but without using seating, Shinjuku pubs of varying quality, and
any fish, meat, or eggs) to classics from home, such as
modern versions served in meaty broth, although the fish and chips or bangers and
contemporary settings. Japanese have turned it into mash, are often on the menu.
Although Kyoto is better a dish all of its own. There is a
known for its shojin ryori, there wide range of different types
are several fine specialist of ramen soups, and these have Fast Food and
Convenience Stores
restaurants in Tokyo, as well as links to various regions of Japan.
around the Zen temples in The main ones are miso, shouyu There are several fast-food
Kamakura. Tokyo has a growing (soy sauce), tonkotsu (pork chains selling burgers, fried
number of macrobiotic and bones), and shio (salt). Late-night chicken, and the like. Many
natural-food eateries. Indian ramen counters are ubiquitous, have familiar names (McDonald’s,
restaurants also offer good cheap, and enduringly popular. KFC) but may serve Japanese
vegetarian options, as do variations. In addition to
some Turkish restaurants. Western fast-food chains, there
Other Asian Restaurants are many selling Japanese-style
Chinese and Korean food is fast food. Local clones such as
Noodle Restaurants hugely popular in Tokyo. Mosburger offer innovative
Japanese noodles come in two Yakiniku (Korean-style barbecue twists, such as burgers between
main forms: brown buckwheat with plenty of red meat) diners rice patties, served with shreds
soba, a favorite in Tokyo since are found throughout the city, of cooked burdock. One of
Edo times, and white udon, with the most authentic in Shin- the most famous chains is
made from wheat flour. These Okubo, Tokyo’s Korea Town, Yoshinoya, which specializes
are served cold with a dip or in located in northern Shinjuku. in gyudon, thinly sliced beef
a hot, savory soup. Ramen is a Yakiniku is best eaten with over a bowl of rice, which is
Japanese variant on Chinese friends, as you cook it yourself at usually eaten on the run.
noodles, usually served with a the table, and it is often washed Takoyaki, which originate from
down with a shot or two of the Osaka, are small grilled balls
The Tanuki Korean liquor soju. Good Thai, made from batter and diced
Vietnamese, Mongolian, and octopus. These are also a
In Japanese folklore bad gers are Indian restaurants are also popular fast food among young
celebrat ed as lovable buffoons available throughout the city. people and are usually eaten
or drunken while piping hot, standing at
rascals. This is a counter in front of the store.
one of the Western Restaurants Convenience stores offer a
reasons why Yoshoku-ya are restaurants good selection of bento boxes
the ceramic that serve Japanese versions (see p125), onigiri (rice balls),
likeness of of Western dishes, especially and an extensive range of
the tanuki
is often those introduced to Japan in ready-to-eat meals, which
found at the Meiji period, such as omu- staff will heat up for you in the
the entrance raisu (omelet rice) or gratin. microwave. They also stock a
of iza kaya Family restaurants, or famiresu, huge range of dried snacks –
and other specialize in this type of food. everything from the familiar
drinking places. Hamburger steak is often the potato crisps to the more
centerpiece, usually served exotic, such as dried squid.




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120  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Reading the Menu Zosui

General vocabulary likely to be useful when eating out is given Rice soup made with the
in the Phrase Book on pages 200–204. Individual ingredients leftover stock of a one-pot
are also listed there. A selection of some of the most popular (nabemono) meal.
dishes and styles of cook ing are listed in this glossary, including Noodle Dishes
Japanese script to help you read menus in Japanese. Further Kitsune soba/udon
details about some of the dishes follow on pages 122–7.
Soba or udon noodles in
flavored dashi broth with
Donburi: Rice-Bowl Kare raisu pieces of fried tofu.
Dishes Nabe yaki udon
Katsudon “Curry rice.” This can be ebi-
kare (shrimp curry), katsu-kare Udon noodles simmered in a
Rice bowl topped with a (with deep-fried pork cutlet), lidded ceramic pot (donabe)
breaded, deep-fried pork or a range of other meat, fish, with a flavored dashi broth,
cutlet and semi-cooked egg. or vegetable options. perhaps with shrimp tempura,
Nikudon Makunouchi bento shiitake mushroom, and egg.
Popular in winter.
Rice bowl with beef, tofu, and Classic bento (see p125). Ramen
gelatinous noodles. Ocha-zuke Chinese-style noodles in a
Oyakodon Rice in a bowl with a piece broth. Usually there are some
of grilled salmon, pickled thin slices of roast pork on top,
Rice bowl with chicken, onions, plum, etc., over which along with sliced leeks,
and runny, semi-cooked egg. tea is poured. seaweed, and a slice of
Tamagodon Omu-raisu fish-paste roll.
Thin omelet wrapped Reimen (Hiyashi chuka)
Rice bowl topped with a semi- around rice mixed
cooked egg. with tomato sauce Chinese noodles
Tendon and chicken or topped with
pork bits. strips of ham
Rice bowl that has one or two Onigiri or roast pork,
shrimp tempura and sauce. Three pieces of onigiri cucumbers, and
Unadon Two or three cabbage. Dressed
triangular chunks of rice with a vinegar and sesame oil
Rice bowl with grilled eel. wrapped in strips sauce. Popular summer dish.
of dried seaweed (nori). Somen
Other Rice Dishes Unaju
Kamameshi Grilled eel served over rice Very thin white noodles,
in a lacquered, lidded box. usually served in ice water.
Rice and tidbits steamed in a Yaki-onigiri A summer dish.
clay or metal pot with a wood- A variation of onigiri, this is Tamago-toji soba/udon
en lid. Served in the container prepared without seaweed
it was steamed in. and grilled over a flame. Soba or udon in a flavored dashi
broth into which an egg has
Rice Crackers and Nibbles been stirred to cook gently.
Tempura soba/udon
Crackers (senbei or osenbei) are sold in supermarkets. Beautifully made
and presented, they are also sold at station gift counters and stalls at Soba or udon in a flavored dashi
the popular tourist attractions. broth with one or two pieces
of shrimp tempura.
Rice crackers with Chocolate-coated Yakisoba
nori seaweed “Pocky” sticks
Mixed rice Soft Chinese noodles sautéed
crackers
on a griddle with vegetables
and some form of meat or fish.
Zarusoba
Prawn Soba noodles served cold on
crackers a bamboo rack. Variation: ten-
zarusoba has shrimp and
Rice crackers shaped like Pea and soy bean
persimmon seeds crackers vegetable tempura next to
noodles.



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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  121

Dishes Prepared Menu Categories
at the Table
Aemono
Mizutaki/Chirinabe
Dressed salad dishes.
Nabemono (one-pot meal) of Agemono
vegetables, tofu, and chicken
(mizutaki) or fish (chirinabe). Deep-fried foods.
Okonomiyaki Nimono Grilled eel (unagi) basted in a sweet sauce,
a yakimono dish
Thick pancake-shaped mix of Simmered foods.
cabbage, egg, shrimp, squid, Sashimi (Otsukuri) Tori no kara-age
or pork cooked on a griddle.
Shabu-shabu Raw fish (see p127). Deep-fried chicken.
Sunomono Tsukemono no moriawase
Nabemono (hot pot) with thinly
sliced beef and vegetables Vinegared dishes. Combination of pickles.
cooked in a metal pan. Yakimono Yakitori
Grilled foods. Marinated chicken grilled
on skewers.
À La Carte Yakiniku
Agedashi-dofu
Korean-style beef barbecue.
Deep-fried tofu (bean curd) Chinese-Style Dishes
in a stock.
Chikuzen-ni Gyoza
Vegetables and bits of chicken
simmered together. Fried dumplings.
Table condiments: seven-spice (shichimi) Eda mame Harumaki
powder, jar of soy sauce, and ground chili
pepper (ichimi) Soybeans steamed in the pod. Spring roll.
Popular summer snack. Shumai
Sukiyaki Hiya-yakko/Yudofu
Small, pork dumplings crimped
High-quality pan-cooked beef Cold/simmered tofu. at the top and steamed.
or chicken and vegetables. Kinpira Yakimeshi/chahan
Teppanyaki
Sautéed burdock and carrot Fried rice.
Meat and/or shrimp or squid strips seasoned with sauces.
and vegetables grilled on a Natto Izakaya Snacks
griddle in front of the diner.
Udon-suki Fermented soybeans. Cucumber and Dried
Niku-jaga sea weed squid
Udon noodles, chicken, and
sometimes clams or shrimp Beef or pork simmered with
simmered in a soup. potatoes and other ingredients.
Oden
Sushi
Chirashi-zushi Hot pot with white radish, boiled
egg, and fish cake in soy broth.
“Scattered” sushi (see p126). Ohitashi
Nigiri-zushi
Boiled spinach or other green Onion and bonito
“Fingers” of sushi (see p126). leafy vegetable with sauce.
Maki-zushi Shio-yaki
At izakaya (see p118)
“Rolled” sushi (see p127). Fish sprinked with salt and establishments, which are
grilled over a flame or charcoal. tavern-like places serving
Set Meal Tamago-yaki food rather than restaurants,
Teishoku dishes such as dried strips of
Rolled omelet. squid and pickles complement
A set meal (see p116), with rice, Tonkatsu the beer, shochu and other
drinks (see pp128–9).
soup, some vegetables, salad,
a main meat dish, and pickles. Breaded, fried pork cutlet.



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122  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavors of Japan

More so than in most developed countries, where the produce
of the entire world is available in supermarkets all year round,
Japan is a country in which local and seasonal produce is still
highly valued. The traditional cuisine of Tokyo reflects its
waterfront location and its easy access to the fertile plains
inland. Tokyo is also the focus of the nation’s food distribution
network, especially through the busy stalls of its central
wholesale market in Tsukiji (see p42). The city also boasts numer­
ous restaurants serving the specialties of other regions of Japan.
Its modern cuisine reflects influences from all around the world. Ramen noodles

diverse parts of the country, residents since the late 17th
that is today the most century and is renow ned as
commonly recognized one of the true tastes of Edo
form of Japanese food. cuisine. As more people from
The story of the ascendancy the north of Japan moved to
of Edo cuisine is also that of Edo, udon noodles, which were
the decline in dominance of popular in the south, were
typically delicate flavors from replaced by soba noodles. Soba
Western Japan. Soba (buck- is most commonly eaten in the
wheat noodles) has been a same simple way that it was
popular food among Edo eaten in the past: in a zaru
Eggplants
Shiitake (aubergines) Daikon radish Sweet potato
mushrooms Nori (seaweed)
Chef at work, using chopsticks to arrange Enoki mushrooms
exquisite dishes
Edo Cuisine
In the early 17th century, Tokyo,
then known as Edo, became
the administrative capital of
Japan after the powerful
Tokugawa family moved there.
With them arrived thousands
of rich landowning samurai
and wealthy merchants. This Bean sprouts
led to the development of Edo
cuisine, a fusion of dishes from Selection of vegetables that feature in Japanese cuisine
Traditional Japanese Specialties
A typical banquet, such as might be served at a
ryotei (upscale restaurant), may have up to
20 courses. Much is made of seasonal
ingredients, with deco rative flourishes
also chosen to reflect the time of
year. Kaiseki is a traditional style of
cuisine in which a dozen or more dishes
Bonito tuna flakes are served to each person, categorized
according to cooking method, not ingredients.
Sake (see p129) is the usual accompaniment. Vegetarian cusine,
called shojin ryori, uses protein-rich tofu rather than meat or fish.
It was devel oped by Zen Buddhists and is now found in many Unadon, featuring grilled eel
restaurants located in or near the precincts of Zen temples. The over a bed of rice, is popular
Japanese have also elevated tea snacks to an art form – delicate as it is thought to have great
and pretty wagashi are usually made from sweet bean paste.
health benefits.






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122  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  123


The Flavors of Japan their seafood. Chilly Hokkaido
in Northern Japan boasts
warming hotpots. Osaka and
Hiroshima in Western Japan vie
over their respective recipes for
okono miyaki pancakes. On the
island of Shikoku, Kochi is
famous for katsuo (skipjack
tuna); on the island of Kyushu,
Kumamoto is renowned for
horsemeat sashimi, while
Kagoshima washes its seafood
down with copious shochu
liquor (see p129). The southern
Tuna being laid out for sale at Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market (see p42) islands of Okinawa boast a
residents since the late 17th pork-rich cuisine.
century and is renow ned as (a small bamboo sieve). The specialties of every corner
one of the true tastes of Edo weaker soy sauce of Western of Japan without leaving the KOBE BEEF
cuisine. As more people from Japan also became less favored city. The cuisine of Kyoto is
the north of Japan moved to when people in Edo adopted a esteemed for its refinement One significant contribution
Edo, udon noodles, which were stronger tasting sauce. Even and exquisite arrangements, that the Japanese have given to
popular in the south, were grilled eel, which is thought to especially kaiseki and temple meat connoisseurs across the
replaced by soba noodles. Soba be a typical part of Edo cuisine, cuisine (see p118), featuring world is Kobe beef. The black
wagyu cows of Hyogo prefecture,
is most commonly eaten in the was originally a dish from tofu and other products based of which Kobe is the capital, are
same simple way that it was Kyoto, but it is the Edo method on soybeans. Areas along the bred and reared using strictly
eaten in the past: in a zaru of cooking the eel and Sea of Japan are renowned for guarded and time-honoured
preparing the sauce that traditions to make some of the
we know today. Other foods highest-quality beef in the world.
which feature strongly in Edo Although similar cows are raised
Enoki mushrooms cuisine are sushi, tempura, in America and Australia, the
and oden (see p121). meat is not considered to be
genuine if it is not from Hyogo,
which makes authentic Kobe
Regional Cuisine beef an expensive delicacy.
As the nation’s capital, Tokyo Kobe beef is an extremely tender
has continued to draw its meat, and it is identifiable by the
population from all corners striations of fat that run through
of the country. This has had it. It is used in a range of Japanese
a significant impact on the dishes – it can be eaten raw as
sashimi, cooked as teppanyaki or,
way the city eats. There are as is popular nowadays, served
numer ous restaurants serving simply as a big hearty steak or
regional cuisines, and it is quite Omoide Yokacho, a lane of restaurants in even a luxurious burger.
Selection of vegetables that feature in Japanese cuisine possible to sample the Shinjuku, Tokyo














Unadon, featuring grilled eel Tempura, originally a Okonomiyaki is a thick, Yakiudon are thick noodles
over a bed of rice, is popular Portuguese dish, is lightly pancake-shaped mix of egg fried with seafood, seaweed,
as it is thought to have great battered deep-fried vegetables and other ingredients, cooked shiitake mushrooms, tuna
health benefits. or seafood. on a griddle. flakes, and bean sprouts.






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124  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


The Japanese Meal

Along with the indispensable rice and miso soup (made from
fermented soy bean paste), a Japanese meal usually consists of a
variety of smaller dishes that are designed to complement each
other. Plain ingredients are often given strong flavors, such as a
bowl of rice topped off with an umeboshi (sour plum) or pickled
ginger, or tofu that has been marinated in a strong, vinegary
sauce. Two liquid ingredients central to most Japanese dishes
are dashi, a light stock made from giant kelp (konbu) and dried
skipjack tuna shavings, and Japanese soy sauce (shoyu). Firm tofu

It is polite for the rice to be common is a portion of grilled
placed to the left and the soup fish, often salted salmon or
to the right of the sitter. Not mackerel. Other dishes may
only is it common for there include dried seaweed, omelet,
to be variations in miso soup and a small portion of pickles.
from region to region, indivi- Natto is a dish made out of
dual families tend to have their fermented soy beans and it is
own idiosyncratic method of a much-loved breakfast dish
producing this most Japanese among health-conscious
of soups. Japanese. Usually eaten with
The basic rice and soup are rice, it is famous not only for
accompanied by a range of being extremely healthy, but
side dishes, of which the most also for its obnoxious smell.
Miso soup Nori (seaweed) Grilled salmon
Japanese family enjoying Pickled Tofu
breakfast together Pickled eggplant Umeboshi Rice daikon
(aubergine) (pickled plums) radish
The Japanese Breakfast
One of the many attractions
of staying in the home of a
Japanese family, or in a
traditional Japanese hotel,
is sampling the Japanese
breakfast. Like most other
Japanese meals, it consists
of different dishes served
separately. At its heart is a bowl
of rice and some miso soup. Some of the ingredients for a typical Japanese breakfast
Preparation and Portions
A fastidiousness about detail characterizes both the preparation
and presentation of Japanese food. Good presentation is vital
to a Japanese restaurant’s success, but it is not only the highly
expensive, multi-course kaiseki meals that display this quality;
even the cheapest food has a touch of the meticulous about it.
This attention to culinary aesthetics naturally favors portions that
are small and served individually to maximize the impact that they
have on both taste and sight. Vegetables are cooked to remain
crisp and retain their colors and, even when fried, food is not
allowed to become greasy – the oil is heated high enough to
seal the food instantly. The serving of small portions also has
health benefits, and it should come as no surprise that obesity
is much less of a problem here than in Western developed
countries. Nowhere else in the world is healthy eating so Small portions of a number
attractive, varied, or delicious. of complementary dishes







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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  125


The Bento Box

A bento is a take-home meal in a compartmentalized box – office
workers buy them for lunch, schoolchildren eat from them at
their desk, and business travelers have them with a beer on the
bullet train. In its neat, individual compartments there will
invariably be a large portion of rice, a main serving of meat or
fish, pieces of omelet, some vegetables, and a selection of
pickles. But part of the charm of the bento is that anything
goes. It is not uncommon to open a bento and find a small
octopus or a tiny whole fish gazing up at you, or even
something that completely defies identification. Slivers of pickled ginger

Pickled daikon Tamagoyaki Sake (salmon) Hijiki (seaweed)
radish Tempura (omelet)





















Rice with black sesame Umeboshi (pickled plums) Nishime (simmered vegetables)

Typical selection of food to be found in a bento box
IN THE BENTO BOX
Agedofu Fried tofu. Kurage Jellyfish.
Chikuwa Tubular steamed Maguro sashimi Tuna sashimi.
fishcakes. Negi Salad onion, used for flavoring
Furikake Variety of condiments to and garnish.
add extra flavor, including nori Nikudango Miniature meatballs.
(seaweed) flakes and toasted
sesame seeds. Onigiri Triangles of rice with
various fillings.
Jako Miniature whole dried fish.
Saba sashimi Mackerel sashimi.
Kabocha Squash, often served Takenoko Bamboo shoots.
simmered.
Konnyaku Gelatinous paste made Tonkatsu Deep-fried breaded pork.
from Devil’s Tongue (similar to Tsukemono Pickled vegetables.
sweet potato). Umeboshi Pickled plums.
Korokke Croquettes filled with Unagi Grilled eel in black bean Japanese student eating lunch from
potato and meat. sauce. a bento box






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126  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


Sushi and Sashimi

Newcomers to Japan are most often both fascinated and
intimidated by these native dishes. The term “sushi” applies
to a variety of dishes (usually written with the suffix “-zushi”)
in which cold, lightly sweet ened, and vin egared sushi rice is
topped or wrapped up with raw fish or other items such as
pickles, cooked fish, and meat. Sliced fillets of raw fish
served with out rice are called sashimi. Even those visitors
used to Japanese restaurants abroad may be surprised at
how ubiquitous such foods are in Japan. Fresh fish is always Sushi bar counter and sushi chefs
used, and the vinegar in sushi rice is a preservative. with years of training

Shredded Hotate Wasabi (Japan ese Gari (ginger),
daikon Hirame Ebi (shrimp) (scallop) horseradish)
radish (halibut) eaten separately

Nigiri-zushi
Here, thin slices of
raw fish are laid over Hokkigai
molded fingers of (type of
sushi rice with a thin clam)
layer of wasabi (green
horseradish) in Suzuki
between. Using (sea bass)
chop sticks or fingers,
pick up a piece, dip Kazunoko
the fish lightly in soy (salted
sauce, and con sume herring roe)
in one mouthful.
Aji (horse Maguro Shimesaba (salted,
Toro (belly flesh mackerel) (tuna) vinegared mackerel) Ika (squid)
of a tuna)

Tamagoyaki (sweetened egg omelet), Denbu, flakes of shrimp and
a popular non-fish item often whitefish that have been boiled, Chirashi-zushi
accompanying sushi and sashimi then dried and seasoned
The “scattered” style of
Kazunoko (salted Ebi sushi involves a colorful
herring roe) (shrimp) combination of toppings
arranged artfully with a
deep bed of cold sushi rice.
Aji (horse Slices of raw fish, fish roe,
mackerel) chunks of omelet, and
other raw or cooked
Uni (the vegetables are placed on
ovaries of a top of the rice (as shown).
sea urchin), a
highly prized
delicacy in
Japan
Gari (ginger)
Ikura (salmon roe)

Slice of kamaboko, a type of steamed fish-paste Thin slice of ika
roll with pink-dyed rim (squid)





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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  127


Maki-zushi Temaki-zushi is rolled
by hand into a large
“Rolled” sushi is becoming increasingly familiar cone shape. Kappa
outside Japan – the California roll, for instance, is a (cucumber)
version using avocado and other non-Japanese
ingredients. For maki-zushi the sushi rice is combined
with slivers of fish, pickles, or other morsels, and
rolled up in a sheet of toasted seaweed (nori).
Takuan (pickled radish)
Umejiso-maki Negitoro-maki
(pickled plum (scallions and tuna) Ebi (shrimp) Tamago (egg)
and shiso herb)
Kampyo (gourd)
Natto-maki Futo-maki, or thick-
(fermented rolled sushi, has three
Oshinko-maki (pickled soy beans) or more ingredients.
daikon)
Kampyo-maki Kappa-maki Tail end
(gourd) (cucumber) Ebi (shrimp)
tempura of ebi
Tekka-maki
(tuna) Ura-maki,
or reverse rolls,
are made so that the
Hoso-maki, or thin-rolled sushi, has one central sushi rice, rather than
ingredient at its core. It is rolled into a cylindri cal shape the nori, forms the outside
with the help of a bamboo mat. of the cylinder.

Hotate (scallop) Thick slices of raw Tarako, cod roe rolled up in squid and Red seaweed garnish
arranged in the shell maguro (tuna) strips of seaweed
Sashimi
Hotate Sliced fillets of the
(scallop) freshest uncooked
arranged with fish may be served
thin strips of as a single course.
nori Sashimi is deli cate
(seaweed) and creamy, and the
only ac com pan i-
ments should be
Hokkigai, soy sauce, wasabi,
out of its daikon, and maybe
shell a shiso leaf.


Tako Aji (horse mackerel), topped Wasabi (green horseradish) molded
(octopus) with finely sliced scallions into the shape of a shiso leaf

Popular Fish in Japan
Of the 3,000 or so varieties of fish eaten in Japan, the most
common, available year-round, are maguro (tuna), tai (sea
bream), haze (gobies), buri (yellowtail), saba (mack erel),
crustaceans such as ebi (shrimp) and kani (crab), and fish that are
usually salted such as sake (salmon) and tara (cod). Spring is the
start of the season for the river fish ayu (sweet fish), traditionally
caught by trained cormorants. Katsuo (skipjack tuna) is available
in spring and summer, unagi (eel) in midsummer, sanma (saury)
in the fall. Winter is the time for dojo (loach), anko (angler fish),
and fugu (globefish), prized for its delicate flavor but also feared
Fish display at Kochi street market for deadly toxins in its liver and ovaries.






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128  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Tokyo

Green tea and sake (rice wine) are the traditional
drinks of Japan. Both have ancient histories, with
sake being mentioned in the Kojiki (see p23), the first
written historical account of Japan. The appreciation of
each has been elevated to connoisseur ship. The tea
ceremony is the ultimate expression of tea appreciation,
a social ritual imbued with Buddhist ideals. Sake has
long associa tions with Shinto – the fox god Inari
presides over sake – and many Shinto festivals still
involve the drink as a central theme. Other Japan ese
drinks include shochu spirit and “health” drinks. Picking green tea in May, when leaves are
at their most tender
Types of Tea
Green tea leaves are divided into three main grades –
gyokuro, which are the most tender, protected leaves
that come out in May; sencha, which are tender leaves
picked in May or June; and bancha, which are large leaves
left until August. Leaves are sterilized with steam and
then dried. Bancha is often roasted or mixed with other
ingredients such as brown rice to form robust teas. Basic green tea is Mugicha is a
Other teas are available; of foreign ones the Japanese sold loose or in tea brewed from
especially enjoy imported fine English teas. tea bags. roasted barley.








Hojicha is Genmaicha is Sencha is a pop­ Gyokuro is a Powdered mat cha
roasted bancha, brown rice (gen mai) ular medium­ to delicate high­ is used in tea
a coarse tea. and bancha. high­grade tea. grade tea. ceremonies.


Soft Drinks Chawan, a Kyusu (teapot)
wide-brimmed
With names that conjure up disturb­ cup without
ing images for English­speaking handles
foreigners, Calpis and Pocari Sweat are
among the most popular Japanese
brands of canned soft drinks. Some
are marketed as energy and vitamin
boosters. Vending machines (see p139)
stock them alongside canned green
tea and coffee, and a wide range of
fruit juices.



Wagashi
(sweets)
Tea leaves, usually loose, are placed in a teapot. Bancha
is brewed with boiling water, but sencha and gyokuro
should be brewed with boiled water that has been
allowed to cool slightly first. The brewing tea should
then stand for about a minute.




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  129

Sake (Rice Liquor)
Sake is made from rice and water, which
are fermented together then pasteurized to
create a superb alcoholic wine-like beverage.
Many connoisseurs judge sake on the five
qualities of sweetness, sourness, pungency,
bitterness, and astringency. Sake may be
drunk warm, but the finer types should be
lightly chilled to retain the subtle flavors.
Unlike wine, sake is rarely expected
to improve in the bottle. Store it in a cool,
dry place for no more than a few months.
Taruzake (cask Everyday hon-jozo type Fine ginjo type by Finer dai-ginjo by
sake) is matured in by Gekkeikan Nihonsakari Tsukasa Botan
wooden casks made
of cypress. Casks are The finest grade of sake, dai-ginjo, is made from
often presented to the hardest core of the rice – more than 50 percent
Shinto shrines as offer- of each grain is shaved away. For the ginjo type about
ings. The brewer’s 40 percent is shaved; for hon-jozo, the average sake,
logo is displayed about 30 percent. Some are brewed with added
prominently. alcohol; those without are called junmai, “pure rice.”






A classic serving set
consists of a ceramic bottle
(tokkuri) and matching
cups (choko). The
bottle can be placed in
hot water to warm the
sake to about 122°F (50°C).
Sake breweries traditionally hang a ball of cedar
leaves (sakabayashi) and sometimes a sacred rope
(shimenawa) over their entrance.


Other Alcoholic Drinks
Japan has several beers that have become well known around the world. Suntory whiskey is also
sold abroad, popular with those who prefer a milder whiskey. Less well known abroad, shochu is
a name for a group of Japanese spirits made from barley or other grains, or potatoes. The alcohol
content of shochu varies from 40 to 90 proof. The distilled spirit is often mixed with hot water or
used as a base for cocktails, but it is also drunk neat, either heated or on the rocks. In addition, it is
used to make bottled fruit liqueurs such as umeshu, which is made with whole Japanese apricots.














Suntory whiskey Sapporo beer Asahi beer Barley shochu Rice shochu





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130  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Nagamine ¥¥ Price Guide
Central Tokyo Vegetarian Map 5 C3 Prices are based on an average dinner
Ginsho Building B1F, Ginza 4-9-5, for one. Lunchtime menus are often
Nakaei ¥ Chuo-ku cheaper.
Japanese curry Map 5 C4 Tel (03) 3547-8083 Closed Sun ¥ under ¥1,000
5-2-1 Tshukiji, Chuo-ku Run by a vegetable wholesaler ¥¥ ¥1,000–¥8,000
Tel (03) 3541-8749 Closed Sun based in nearby Tsukiji, this place ¥¥¥ over ¥8,000
This shop, which has been serves kaiseki cuisine (that is, fea-
going strong for 100 years, is turing multiple courses) at its best. Warashibe (Tsushima) ¥¥
where the locals go for good, Monjayaki Map 6 D3
cheap, Japanese-style curry. Nezu Café ¥¥ 1-20-5, Tsukishima, Chuo-ku
Café Map 2 D5 Tel (03) 3534-2929
Yoshinoya ¥ Nezu Museum, 6-5-1 Minami- Savor delicious monjayaki
Gyudon Map 5 C3 Aoyama, , Minato-ku (pan-fried batter with various
Tsukiji Market Building 1, 5-2-1 Tsukiji, Tel (03) 3400-2536 toppings), the Tokyo version
Chuo-ku Nezu Museum's café is a destin- of okonomiyaki (Japanese
Tel (03) 5550-8504 Closed Sun ation in itself. Watch as kimono- pancake), in an attractive setting.
This was the very first branch clad patrons jockey for the best
of this well-established gyudon seats overlooking the gardens. Akasaka Kikunoi ¥¥¥
(literally “beef bowl”) chain. Seafood Map 2 E4
Sato Yosuke ¥¥ 6-13-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku
Birdland ¥¥ Noodle Map 5 B2 Tel (03) 3568-6055 Closed Sun
Yakitori Map 5 B2 Idei Honkan, 1F, 6-4-17 Ginza, Chuo-ku The Tokyo outpost of Japan’s
Tsukamoto Sozan Building, B1F, Tel (03) 6215-6211 top chef Yoshihiro Murata
4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku This restaurant specializes in the serves up exquisite kaiseki
Tel(03) 5250-1081 Closed Sun, Mon popular inaniwa udon dishes ryori in beautiful surroundings.
A high-end restaurant from Akita Prefecture. For a glimpse into Japan’s
specializing in yakitori (grilled culinary art at a fraction of the
chicken skewers), Birdland has Sushi Iwa ¥¥ price, opt for the lunchtime
a pleasant atmosphere. Sushi Map 5 C3 kodaiji bento box.
2-15-10 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku
¥¥¥
DK Choice Tel (03) 3541-5951 Ginza Okamoto Map 5 B3
Sushi Iwa knows how to make
Kaiseki
Coca ¥¥ the perfect sushi. The surround- 5F, 8-3-12 Ginza
Thai Map 5 B2 ings are minimalist and classy. Tel (03) 3571-5110
Bic Camera Yurakucho, 6F, 1-11-1 Before opening this excellent
Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku Sushi Maru ¥¥ kaiseki restaurant, owner and
Tel (03) 3201-5489 Sushi Map 5 C3 head chef Hidetsugu Okamoto
A popular Thai restaurant with a Tsukiji Fish Market Area 10, Tsukiji trained at the legendary
difference: the specialty is Thai 5-2-1, Chuo-ku Wakuden in Kyoto. He brings
suki, a spicy Thai take on the Tel (03) 3541-8414 Closed Sun that experience to his kitchen.
classic Japanese hotpot dish This is a popular, counter-style
sukiyaki, which has been re- sushi restaurant in Tsukiji Market. Nobu Tokyo ¥¥¥
imported to Japan. The Issan- Try the omakase set, which is huge. Seafood Map 2 F4
style spicy BBQ chicken is also Toranomon Tower Office, 1F,
delicious, and they only use Tenfusa ¥¥ 4-1-28 Toranomon, Minato-ku
Hakata Hanamidori chickens Tempura Map 5 C3 Tel (03) 5733-0070
from Japan’s Kyushu region. Tsukiji Fish Market Building 6, 5-2-1 Nobu Matsuhisa is probably the
Tsukiji, Chuo-ku best-known Japanese chef in the
Tel (03) 3547-6766 world. Diners flock to his Tokyo
Kushiro ¥¥ This is the only place in Tsukiji restaurant for impressive seafood
Traditional Japanese Map 5 B1 Fish Market that sells crispy cuisine with strong American
JP Tower Kitte, 6F, Marunouchi 2-7-2, and piping-hot tempura. influences. Good sake selection.
Chuo-ku
Tel (03) 6256-0817
An attractive izakaya (bar) that
serves charcoal-grilled seafood
and vegetable dishes, Kushiro
also offers other specialties from
the Hokkaido region.
Monja Oedosakai ¥¥
Monjayaki Map 6 D3
Eye Mark Tower 102, 1-8-1,
Tsukishima, Chuo-ku
Tel (03) 3531-0521
Located on Monja Street, this
place puts you right at the
heart of Tokyo’s ever-popular
monjayaki (pancake) boom. The minamilist interior of Birdland, one of Tokyo’s many yakitori restaurants
130-137_EW_Tokyo.indd 130 12/09/16 11:24 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  131

Les Saisons ¥¥¥
European Map 5 B2
Imperial Hotel Tokyo (Main Building),
1-1-1 Uchisaiwaicho, Chiyoda-ku
Tel (03) 3539-8087
Expect delicious and well-
presented dishes, with exquisite
service. French dining at its best.
Sukibayashi Jiro ¥¥¥
Seafood Map 5 B3
Tsukamoto Building B1F,
4-2-15 Ginza, Chuo-ku
Tel (03) 3535-3600
This place is a must for sushi
connoisseurs. Jiro is the oldest
chef in the world to hold three
Michelin stars, and dining here is
a once-in-a-lifetime experience. A low table with sunken leg room at Asakusa Imahan, Northern Tokyo
Advance reservations are essential.
Park Side Café Ueno ¥ Iidaya ¥¥
Sushi Sora ¥¥¥ Café Map 3-C3 Seafood Map 4 F2
Seafood Map 5 C1 8-4 Ueno Park, Taito-ku, 3-3-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku
Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 38F, 2-1-1 Tel (03) 5815-8251 Tel (03) 3843-0881 Closed Wed
Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo-ku This gorgeous modern café This family restaurant has been
Tel (03) 3270-8188 serves beautifully made cakes, serving dojo (a freshwater fish)
The austere interior focuses as well as more filling fare. to locals since the Edo period.
the diners’ attention on the real
stars: the exquisite fish and the Ringer Hut Ueno Okachimachi ¥ Nishiguchi-Yakiton ¥¥
stunning views. Unusually, the Noodle Map 3 C3 Yakitori Map 4 D4
chefs here all speak English. 6-8-5 Ueno, Taito-ku 4-10-2 Asakusabashi, Taito-ku,
Tel (03) 5807-1045 Tel (03) 3864-4869 Closed holidays
Vin Picoeur ¥¥¥ Ringer Hut is a fast-food chain This hole-in-the-wall place offers
European Map 5 B2 famous mainly for a Nagasaki- pretty much any meat you can
Ginzaya Saketen Building, 2F, style noodle dish known as think of – including pig heart
4-3-4 Ginza, Chuo-ku champon, which is a healthier, and tongue – on a skewer.
Tel (03) 3567-4122 seafood-based version of ramen.
Located in a building that also Ocomo ¥¥
houses a wine merchant (hence Shoryu Gyoza ¥ Okonomiyaki Map 4 E3
the fine wine list), this place serves Gyoza (Dim Sum) Map 3 C3 1-10-5 Asakusa, Taito-ku
French-style charcoal grilled meats 6-10-14 Ueno, Taito-ku Tel (03) 6802-7743
and fish with a Japanese twist. Tel (03) 3832-0847 Enjoy okonomiyaki (Japanese
Watch the staff as they make pancake) on a hot plate at
large and delicious gyoza (dim your table in a stylish setting.
sum) from scratch in this
Northern Tokyo legendary restaurant tucked Otafuku ¥¥
away in Ameyoko Market. Oden Map 4 E2
Izakaya Koji ¥ 1-6-2 Senzoku, Taito-ku
Traditional Japanese Map 4 E2 Asakusa Imahan ¥¥ Tel (03) 3871-2521 Closed Mon
2-3-19 Asakusa, Taito-ku, Shabu-shabu Map 4 E2 This place has been serving up
Tel (03) 3844-0612 3-1-12 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku oden (boiled egg, daikon, and
This restaurant serving hearty Tel (03) 3841-1114 processed fish cake) since the
beef stew is on Denbouin-dori, Founded in 1895, this shabu- Meiji period.
an Asakusa back alley filled with shabu and sukiyaki chain offers
eateries offering a similar menu. high-grade wagyu beef boiled Sasanoyuki ¥¥
in a tasty broth. Tofu Map 4 D1
Kanda Yabu Soba ¥ 2-15-10 Negishi, Taito-ku
Noodle Map 3 C4 Daikokuya ¥¥ Tel (03) 3873-1145 Closed Mon
2-10 Kanda-Awajicho, Chiyoda-ku Tempura Map 4 E3 The official supplier of tofu to the
Tel (03) 3251-0287 1-38-10 Asakusa, Taito-ku Imperial family, Sasanoyuki serves
Diners enjoy handmade soba Tel (03) 3844-1111 a wide range of dishes made
noodles while sitting on tatami Close to Senso-ji Temple, this from the best tofu in Japan.
mats. Housed in a traditional, long-running restaurant is
wooden, Edo-style building. famous for its ebi-tendon – prawn Shokichi ¥¥
tempura laid on a bowl of rice. Noodle Map 4 E2
Oedo Kaiten Sushi ¥ Amano Building 1F, 2-29-6, Asakusa,
Sushi Map 3 C3 Daitoryo ¥¥ Taitou-ku
6-2-1 Ueno, Taito-ku Traditional Japanese Map 4 D2 Tel (03) 6231-7273
Tel (03) 5812-2097 6-10-14 Ueno, Taito-ku Udon is normally a dish eaten
Items on the conveyor belt here Tel (03) 3832-5622 on the run, but this izakaya has
start at ¥136. The most popular A popular izakaya in Ameyoko made it into a relaxing affair to
sushi, chutoro (medium fat tuna), Market, Daitoryo is a great place be enjoyed with friends over
is an affordable ¥315. to eat, drink, and socialize. a few drinks.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 117
130-137_EW_Tokyo.indd 131 12/09/16 11:24 am

132  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Sometaro ¥¥ Kameya Issuitei ¥¥¥ might want to try the Korean
Okonomiyaki Map 4 E3 Kappo Map 3 C3 version, which is equally tasty,
2-2-2 Nishi-Asakusa, Taito-ku 2-13-2, Ueno, Taitou-ku but has a spicy twist.
Tel (03) 3844-9502 Tel (03) 3831-0912
Enjoy okonomiyaki (Japanese Perfectly located by the edge of Nagi Ramen ¥
pancake) made with fresh Shinobazu Pond, in Ueno Park, Noodle Map 1 B1
seafood in a rustic setting. this restaurant specializes in Shinjuku Golden Gai (G2 Street), 2F,
grilled eel. The kappo method 1-1-10 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku
Sushi-Nova ¥¥ of cooking involves cutting, Tel (03) 3205-1925 Closed 3rd Sun
Sushi Map 4 E3 boiling, stewing, and frying. of month
1-22-3 Asakusa, Taito-ku In the heart of the Golden Gai,
Tel (03) 5246-4334 Tokyo’s historical bar district, this
Sushi-Nova is kaiten-zushi for place is famous for its niboshi
the next generation. Diners Western Tokyo soup made from dried sardines.
place orders through a digital
touch panel at their table and Fuunji Ramen ¥ Shinjuku Asia Yokocho ¥
the sushi is delivered to them Noodle Map 1 A2 Asian Map 1 B1
by conveyor belt. Hokuto 1st Building, 2-14-3 Yoyogi, Dai 2 Towa Kaikan (roof), 1-21-1
Shibuya-ku Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo
Takokyu ¥¥ Tel (03) 6413-8480 Closed Sun Tel (03) 3352-2370
Oden Map 3 C3 Famed for its tsukemen ramen, This rowdy rooftop food court
2-11-8 Ueno, Taito-ku this place is extremely popular, in the heart of Kabukicho offers
Tel (03) 3831-5088 Closed Mon so expect to wait in line to taste a range of different cuisines from
Somewhat of a mecca for oden its legendary fish-flavored soup. across Asia, including Korean
fans, this legendary restaurant and Indonesian dishes.
in downtown Ueno serves its Gindaco ¥
hotpot with a dark, heavy soup. Takoyaki Map 1 B1 DK Choice
Shinjuku Toho Building, 1F, 1-19-1
Tempura Hisago ¥¥ Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku Tenkkaippin Ramen ¥
Tempura Map 3 C5 Tel (03) 6205-5959 Noodle Map 1 A2
Akihabara UDX Building, 3F, 4-14-1 At this cross between a bar and a Atlas Nishi-Shinjuku Building, 1F,
Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku stand, enjoy piping-hot takoyaki 1-15-8 Nishi-Shinjuku,
Tel (03) 3252-3051 (diced octopus rolled into balls Shinjuku-ku
Enjoy watching the chef cook with flour, then deep fried) while Tel (03) 3342-2427
tempura in sesame oil using watching the Kabukicho crowds. This small but lively restaurant
fresh seafood and seasonal is popular with hardcore ramen
vegetables. Go Go Curry ¥ fans, who come flocking for
Japanese curry Map 1 A2 the heavy, high-fat kotteri broth,
DK Choice YU-WA Building, B1, 2-13-6 Yoyogi, which is so thick it is more like
Shibuya-ku
a gravy than a soup. Ask for an
Hantei ¥¥¥ Tel (03) 3320-3855 ajitama, or soy sauce-flavored
Kushiage Map 3 B2 Gaudy pop culture meets tasty boiled egg, as a topping. The
2-12-15 Nezu, Bunkyo curry here. A menu highlight is service is good and fast.
Tel (03) 3828-1440 Closed Mon the deep-fried pork cutlet, served
This gorgeous traditional over rice, with a rich curry sauce
restaurant serving kushiage and shredded cabbage. Azabu Shokudo ¥¥
(delicacies coated in panko Yoshoku Map 2 D5
breadcrumbs, then fried) is Kiraku ¥ Azabu West Building, B1, 4-18-1
said to date back to the Meiji Noodle Map 1 B5 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku
era. It has survived both the 2-17-6 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku Tel (03) 3409-4767 Closed Sun
Great Kanto Earthquake and Tel (03) 3461-2032 Closed Wed & hols
World War II. With over 60 years of experience This slightly upmarket Western-
in the business, this popular style restaurant is famed for its
shop delivers excellent old- delicious omuraisu – flavored
school ramen in a classic rice wrapped in an omelet.
soy sauce-based broth.
Blackhole ¥¥
Mos Burger ¥ Japanese Map 1 b1
American Map 1 B1 1-2-5 Kabukicho, Shinjuku,
7-1-8 Nishishinjuku, Shinjuku-ku Tel (03) 6457-6089
Tel (03) 3362-0093 This reliable yaki-niku bar is a hit
Find out why Japan’s favorite with the locals. Depending on
home-grown burger chain has your luck, you may receive Kobe,
the edge over its international Saitama, or Kyushu wagyu beef.
rivals. Try one of the rice burgers,
with rice cakes instead of a bun. Chinese Café Eight ¥¥
Chinese Map 2 E5
Myeongdong Norimaki ¥ Court Annex Roppongi, 2F,
Korean Map 1 B1 3-2-13 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku
1-12-3 Okubo, Shinjuku-ku Tel (03) 5414-5708
Tel (03) 5292-4499 Relaxed and popular, this Chinese
Varied and colorful sushi dishes at Sushi If you have had your fill of restaurant is open 24 hours a day
Gotoku (see p134) Japanese-style sushi, you and is famed for its Peking duck.
Key to Price Guide see page 130
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  133

Curry Udon Senkichi ¥¥
Noodle Map 1 A2
2-13-6 Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku
Tel (03) 5358-7054
Slurp down Japanese udon
noodles from a steaming hot
bowl of Thai-style curry soup,
which comes in three flavors.
Deniz Roppongi ¥¥
Turkish Map 2 E5
Kita-Azabu Building, 1F-2F,
3-13-10 Roppongi, Minato-ku
Tel (03) 6804-2941
This is the place to visit for a
late-night kabob and beer.
Vegetarian options also available.
Espanya ¥¥ The traditional and airy interior of Maisen, a famous tonkatsu chain
European Map 1 B2
Tokyo Plaza Building, 3F, 2-10-10, Hobgoblin Shibuya ¥¥ Nabe-zo ¥¥
Yoyogi, Shibuya-ku European Map 1 B5 Nabe Map 1 B1
Tel (03) 3379-1159 Closed Mon Ichiban Building, 3F, 1-3-11, Shinjuku Takano Building No. 2, 8F,
Enjoy authentic Spanish cuisine Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku 3-30-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
and wines in classy surroundings. Tel (03) 6415-4244 Tel (03) 5363-4629
The seafood paella is especially Popular with expats, this British Nabezo is a modern Japanese
good. pub serves English ale and restaurant specializing in a varied
comfort food such as bangers range of hotpot dishes, namely
Fonda de la Madrugada ¥¥ and mash and shepherd’s pie. nabe (hotpot), sukiyaki (stew),
Mexican Map 1 C4 and shabu-shabu (thinly sliced
Villa Bianca, B1, 2-33-12 Jingumae, DK Choice beef boiled in water).
Shibuya-ku
Tel (03) 5410-6288 Kabuto ¥¥ Nagi Shokudo ¥¥
There are not many Mexican Yakitori Map 1 B1 Vegetarian Map 1 A5
restaurants in Tokyo, but this is 1-2-11 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku 15-10 Uguisudanicho, Shibuya-ku
the one to visit if you have a Tel (03) 3342-7671 Closed Sun & Tel (050) 1043-7751
craving. Fantastic guacamole. hols In the Shibuya area, this
Join the local business crowd in innovative vegetarian café/
Gempin Fugu ¥¥ this popular yakitori restaurant in restaurant offers a range of
Fugu Map 1 B1 the former black-market quarter tasty dishes, many of which are
2F, 3-8-2 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku of Omoide Yokocho (“Memory vegan. The lunchtime set-menu
Tel (03) 3341-9529 Lane”). The origins of this smoky deal is particularly popular.
This is the place to try fugu, the alley near Shinjuku Station lie
infamous poisonous blowfish. in the immediate aftermath of Nataraj ¥¥
Enjoy it with a bottle of sake. World War II, when dozens of Vegetarian/Indian Map 2 D4
drinking shacks were built here. Sanwa-Aoyama Building, B1, 2-22-19
Ghungroo ¥¥ Mimami-aoyama, Minato-ku
Indian Map 1 C5 Tel (03) 5474-0510
Seinan Building, 5-9-6 Minami- Kanetanaka-so ¥¥ Enjoy tasty and spicy hot Indian
Aoyama, Minato-ku Kaiseki Map 1 C5 curries in a stylish environment.
Tel (03) 3406-0464 Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel, 2F, The food here is prepared with
A cut above the rest, this fine- 26-1 Sakuragaoka-cho, Shibuya-ku organic ingredients that are
dining Indian restaurant serves a Tel (03) 3476-3420 100 percent vegetarian.
range of spicy and tasty curries. This exclusive kaiseki restaurant
offers picture-perfect dishes in Restaurant-I ¥¥
Hainan Jeefan Shokudo ¥¥ a modern setting. European Map 1 B4
Singaporean Map 2 E5 1F Park Court Jingumae 1-4-20
6-11-16 Roppongi, Minato-ku Maisen ¥¥ Jingumae, Shibuya-ku,
Tel (03) 5474-3200 Closed 3rd Mon Tonkatsu Map 1 C5 Tel (03) 5772-2091
of month 4-8-5 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku Michelin-starred chef Keisuke
Enjoy delicious Singaporean Tel (03) 3470-0071 Matsushima takes the delicate
classics at this friendly restaurant. This well-known tonkatsu chain cuisine of the south of France
The succulent Hainan-style chicken sells the popular breaded and and gives it a Japanese twist.
on rice is a must-try. The terrace deep-fried pork cutlet.
is great for an outdoor meal. Sasashige Teppan-Yaki
Masudaya ¥¥ Cuisine ¥¥
Hamaguri ¥¥ Noodle Map 1 B1 Teppanyaki Map 2 D5
Seafood Map 1 B1 2-38-3 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku Oyama Building, 2F, 2-13-15
3-8-4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku Tel (03) 3204-4147 Nishiazabu, Minato-ku
Tel (03) 3354-9018 Closed Sun & hols Expect delicious handmade Tel (03) 5774-4439
This old-school restaurant noodles and a serene ambience Wagyu beef steaks and fresh
specializes in shellfish and has a at this classy soba restaurant seafood are grilled to perfection
good range of sakes to match. with wood decor. at this high-class restaurant.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 117
130-137_EW_Tokyo.indd 133 12/09/16 11:24 am

134  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Seiko-en ¥¥ Ushigoro ¥¥ DK Choice
Yakiniku Map 1 B4 Yakiniku Map 2 D5
6-4-1 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku 2-24-14 Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku Ryugin ¥¥¥
Tel (03) 6427-9019 Tel (03) 3406-4129 Kaiseki Map 2 E5
Enjoy top-quality yakiniku, or At this stylish restaurant serving Side Roppongi Building,
Korean-style BBQ, in a stylish res- great cuts of grilled meat, the 7-17-24 Roppongi, Minato-ku
taurant with a Hawaiian theme. beef tenderloin filet is especially Tel (03) 3423-8006 Closed Sun
juicy and delicious. There is Voted the second-best
Senkoen Kabukicho ¥¥ also a surprisingly big wine list. restaurant in Asia at the
Chinese Map 1-B1 Reservations recommended. influential 50 Best Restaurant
2F, 1-16-12 Kabukicho, Shinjuku-ku Awards, this three Michelin-
Tel (03) 5272-2118 Closed Tue Yamaga Honten ¥¥ starred eatery effortlessly
This laid-back and friendly Chinese Traditional Japanese Map 1 B5 combines traditional kaiseki
restaurant specializes in spicy 1-5-9 Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku ryori with molecular gastro-
Shichuan dishes. Wash them Tel (03) 3461-3010 nomy that focuses on the
down with shaoxingjiu rice wine. A short walk from Shibuya four seasonal flavors of Japan.
Station, this old-school Japanese- Reserve a table in advance.
The Soul of Seoul ¥¥ style izakaya (bar) has a wide-
Yakiniku Map 1 B5 ranging menu, with a particularly
Alive Mitake Building, B1, 1-2-5, strong focus on yakitori.
Shibuya, Shibuya-ku
Tel (03) 5778-3896 Le Bourguignon ¥¥¥ Farther Afield
This is a high-class Korean BBQ European Map 2 D5
restaurant in the Omotesando area. 3-3-1 Nishi-Azabu, Minato-ku Grill Bon ¥
The fruit makgeolli is an excellent Tel (03) 5772-6244 Closed Wed Sandwich
drink to match the tender meat. The food leans towards the 7-14-1 Ginza, Chuo-ku
heavier end of French cuisine at Tel (03) 5565-3386 Closed Sun
Sushi Gotoku ¥¥ this popular restaurant. Limited This tiny restaurant has made
Sushi Map 1 A5 seating, so book in advance. just one type of sandwich
8-2 Kamiyamacho, Shibuya-ku since 1944: the exquisite beef
Tel (03) 5454-5595 L’Estasi ¥¥¥ hirekatsu, a cutlet that is deep
Sushi with a touch of Western European Map 2 E5 fried and perfectly cooked to
influence is served here. Opt for the Gate Tower, 3F, Roppongi Hills, medium-rare, served with
multi-course menu: chef Ueno will 6-11-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku soft white bread.
prepare your dishes according to Tel (03) 5770-4565
the best ingredients available. Come here for high-quality King Falafel ¥
Italian food with a Japanese Vegetarian
Teddy’s Bigger Burgers ¥¥ twist and a strong focus on 2-7-31 Minami Azabu, Minato-ku
American Map 1 B4 fresh, organic ingredients and Tel (03) 5441 4770 Closed Sat
6-28-5 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku presentation. In addition to pasta This Israeli-owned stand offers
Tel (03) 5774-2288 dishes, meats, and fish, there is falafel sandwiches or falafel
The Tokyo branch of this popular also pizza. Good wine list, too. lunch boxes, with rice and
Hawaiian chain delivers big, tasty side salads. The pitta bread
burgers with lots of flavor. Inakaya ¥¥¥ is imported from Jerusalem.
Robatayaki Map 2 E5 Excellent hummus.
TGI Fridays ¥¥ Renu Building, 1F, 5-3-4 Roppongi,
American Map 2 E5 Minato-ku Ramen Jiro ¥
Roppongi Plaza Building 1, 2F, Tel (03) 3408-5040 Noodle
3-12-6 Roppongi, Minato-ku This upmarket robatayaki 2-16-4 Mita, Minato-ku
Tel (03) 5412-7555 (Japanese barbecue) restaurant Tel (03) 3455-5551 Closed Sun
This well-known restaurant chain serves fire-grilled meats, fish, Ramen Jiro has long been a
serves classic American fare, such and vegetables. Enjoy your mecca for ramen lovers, who
as hamburgers, ribs, and shakes. dinner with a sake from the come here to taste the delicious
extensive range available. soy sauce-based broth.
Tonchang ¥¥
Yakiniku Map 1 B1
Lisbon Building, 1F, 2-32-3 Okubo,
Shinjuku-ku
Tel (03) 5155-7433
In the heart of Korea Town, this
is the place to sample authentic
Korean-style barbecued meats.
Toriyoshi ¥¥
Yakitori Map 1 B1
Kurihashi Building, B1 & B2, 3-13-5,
Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku
Tel (03) 3353-3357
This place does pretty much
everything with chicken that you
can think of, including excellent
yakitori (grilled skewers). The
hotpot is highly recommended. The chic yet homely interior of Sarabeth’s Daikanyama (see p135)
Key to Price Guide see page 130
130-137_EW_Tokyo.indd 134 12/09/16 11:24 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  135

Tableaux ¥ renowned for the delectable
European agu braised pork belly. The
B1F, Sunroser Daikanyama, 11-6, menu also features many
Sarugaku-cho, Shibuya-ku other Okinawan treats.
Tel (03) 5489-2201
Enjoy French- and Italian-inspired Sarabeth’s Daikanyama ¥¥
cooking with a strong Japanese American
touch in a refined enviroment. T-SITE Station, 2F, 1-35-17 Ebisu-
Nishi, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Tonsui Tonkatsu ¥ Tel (03) 5428-6358
Tonkatsu A popular New York-based
2-39-13 Kitazawa, Setagaya restaurant chain, Sarabeth’s
Tel (03) 3468-1315 offers delicious breakfast
This popular tonkatsu restaurant, classics, such as eggs
run by an elderly couple, serves Benedict, pancakes, and
traditionally made, classic deep- fluffy French toast.
fried pork cutlets.
Sembre Pizza ¥¥
Butagumi ¥¥ Yoshiba, a restaurant renowned for its links European
Tonkatsu to sumo wrestling 3-25-25 Koenji-Kita, Suginami-ku
2-24-9 Nishi Azabu, Minato-ku Tel (03) 3330-9201
Tel (03) 5466-6775 Closed Mon Momonjiya ¥¥ This is a back-to-basics shop
Unlike most tonkatsu places, this Nabe that serves good pizza at a
restaurant serves 50 varieties 1-10-2, Ryogoku, Sumida-ku reasonable price. Try the
of pork – everything from Tel (03) 3631-5596 Closed Sun sausage and broccoli pizza,
kurobuta (crispy fried black The menu here will satisfy the or opt for a margherita
pork) to Spanish Iberico ham. most committed of carnivores, (tomato and mozzarella).
with dishes featuring venison,
Celeb de Tomato ¥¥ wild boar, and even badger, Tonki ¥¥
Vegetarian plus a great nabe hotpot. Tonkatsu
3-15-5 Kita Aoyama, Minato-ku 1-1-2 Shimo-Meguro,
Tel (03) 6427-9922 NorthField ¥¥ Meguro-ku
A fantastically blinkered Japanese European Tel (03) 3491-9928 Closed Tue
original, this is a restaurant that Shimokitazawa Coo B1, 2-26-14, Tonki has been serving
worships the humble tomato to Kitazawa, Setagaya-ku tonkatsu – breaded, deep-
the exclusion of everything else. Tel (03) 6416-8248 fried pork cutlets – to
An interesting blend of European Tokyoites since the 1940s.
Chabuzen ¥¥ dishes is served at this classy Diners eat at a counter
Vegetarian eatery in trendy Shimokitazawa. running along the edge of
6-16-20 Daita, Setagaya-ku a spotless and spartan room.
Tel (080) 6603-8587 Closed Tue Pizzeria La Befana ¥¥
This restaurant in trendy Pizzeria DK Choice
Shimokitazawa specializes in 5-31-3, Daita, Setagaya-ku
yakuzen cuisine, or food believed Tel (03) 3411-9500 Yoshiba ¥¥
to have medicinal properties. Come here for proper wood- Nabe
fired-oven pizza and tasty 2-14-5, Yokoami,
Iseya ¥¥ prosciutto salad in classy Sumida-ku
Yakitori surroundings. Good prices. Tel (03) 3623-4480 Closed Sun
1-15-8 Kichijoji-Minami-cho, Located in the famous
Musashino-shi Queen’s Bath Resort ¥¥ sumo-wrestling district of
Tel (0422) 43-2806 Closed Mon Hawaiian Ryogoku, this restaurant
Iseya is located right on the edge Aqua City Odaiba 6F, 1-7-1, Daiba, specializes in hotpot
of Inokashira Park, so diners can Minato-ku dishes, including chanko-
enjoy an old-school yakitori while Tel (03) 3599-2601 nabe, the dish responsible
gazing upon one of Tokyo’s most Enjoy fine Hawaiian fare with a for making the wrestlers
pleasant green spaces. touch of French, accompanied put on all those pounds. If
by great views of Tokyo Bay. that is not authentic enough,
Kuro Hitsuji ¥¥ the restaurant was formerly
Izakaya Sabaran ¥¥ a sumo stables, and there
1-11-6, Kamimeguro, Meguro-ku Turkish is a preserved ring at the
Tel (070) 6483-2255 Jiyugaoka Department Store 2F 14, center of the dining area.
This place serves a good example of 1-28-8, Jiyuugaoka, Meguro-ku
the popular Mongolian-style gril- Tel (03) 5701-0012 Closed Wed
led lamb known as Genghis Khan. Great Turkish cuisine, including Shirube ¥¥¥
divine desserts, is served in a Izakaya
Meu Nota ¥¥ stylish environment. Good service. 2-18-2 Kitazawa, Setagaya
Vegetarian Tel (03) 3413-3785
2F, 3-45-11 Koenji-Minami, Suginami-ku Sanzan’uindou ¥¥ This classy place in
Tel (03) 5929 9422 Okinawan Shimokitazawa manages to
On the menu in this classy but 1F, 5-29-16, Daizawa, Setagaya-ku retain the typical buzz of an
friendly café in trendy Koenji are Tel (03) 3412-8200 izakaya while offering the
tasty meat-free soups, pasta dishes, One of Tokyo’s best Okinawan ambience and food of a
salads, and tapas-style bites. restaurants, this place is proper restaurant.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 117
130-137_EW_Tokyo.indd 135 12/09/16 11:24 am

136  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Bonzo Kamakura ¥¥ Hoto Fudo ¥¥
Beyond Tokyo Noodle Nabe
3-17-33 Zaimokuza, Kamakura-shi, 707 Kitamoto, Fujikawaguchiko,
Menya Kikyo ¥ Kanagawa-ken Minamitsuru-gun
Ramen Tel (0467) 7373-15 Tel (0555) 76-7800
212-16 Kuragasaki-Shinden, Nikko, This Michelin-starred restaurant Hoto noodles, which are
Tochigi-ken is famous for its handmade soba similar to udon, are a specialty
Tel (0288) 21-0054 Closed Thu noodles. Excellent tempura, too. of the Fuji Lakes Area, and
Enjoy superb ramen in a traditional, you can eat them here, piping
Japanese-style wood cottage with Gyoshintei ¥¥ hot and served with lots of
natural surroundings. The shio- Vegetarian local vegetables.
(salt) based broth with chick en 2339-1 Sannai, Nikko, Tochigi
flavors is the house specialty. Prefecture Imozen ¥¥
Tel (0288) 53-3751 Closed Thu Kaiseki
Natudeco ¥ Try shojin ryori, or Buddhist 15-1 Komuro, Kawagoe City,
Organic Café temple cuisine, in this serene Saitama Prefecture
1-14-26 Hase, Kamakura, location close to many of Tel (049) 243-8551 Closed Tue
Kanagawa Prefecture Nikko’s attractive temples and Featuring an attractive Japanese
Tel (0467) 40-6973 shrines. The dishes are made garden, this affordable kaiseki
This trendy café, with stylish and using local bean curd and restaurant specializes in dishes
minimalist decor, offers a range fresh seasonal vegetables. made with sweet potatoes.
of organic food, including macro-
biotic and vegetarian dishes. Hachinoki Honten ¥¥ Kabuki ¥¥
Shojin Ryori Izakaya
Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum ¥ 7 Yamanouchi, Kita-Kamakura 2F, 814-5, Hanazakicho, Narita-shi,
Noodle Tel (0467) 23-3723 Chiba Prefecture
2-14-21 Shinyokohama, Kohoku-ku, Enjoy elegant shojin ryori Tel (0476) 22-1366
Yokohama City vegan cuisine in the peaceful Conveniently located near Narita
Tel (045) 471-0503 surrounds of Hachinoki Honten, Station, this classy izakaya offers
Try all the types of ramen Japan located close to the main everything from sashimi and
has to offer at this museum entrance of Kencho-ji Temple. okonomiyaki to wagyu steaks.
dedicated to the humble noodle
soup. Choose from the nine Hakone Akatsukian ¥¥ Kawagoe Ichinoya ¥¥
ramen shops set within the Noodle Japanese
replica 1958 Japanese cityscape. 184 Yumotochaya, Hakone-machi, 1-18-10 Matsue-cho, Kawagoe City,
Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa-ken Saitama Prefecture
Yamamoto Kisoba ¥ Tel (0460) 85-6763 Tel (049) 222-0354
Noodle Aficionados swear by the zaru This long-standing Kawagoe
501 Yamanouchi, Kamakura, soba (cold noodles in a broth) institution serves the regional
Kanagawa Prefecture served here. The dish is made specialty: unagi-don, or grilled
Tel (0467) 22-3310 with top-quality buckwheat eel on a bowl of rice.
Conveniently located near Kita- flour and some of the best
Kamakura Station, this reasonably spring water in Japan. Magokoro ¥¥
priced soba (cold noodles in a Vegetarian
broth) restaurant is very popular. Hakone Curry Cocoro ¥¥ Hase 2-8-11, 2F, Kamakura,
Japanese Curry Kanagawa Prefecture
Akai ¥¥ HOT Ogawa Bldg., 1F, 206 Yumoto, Tel (0467) 38-7355 Closed Sun
Traditional Japanese Hakone-machi, Ashigarashimo-gun, This hip organic and vegetarian
1322-7 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko, Kanagawa Prefecture café looks out onto sunny
Minami-Tsuru-gun Tel (0460) 85-8556 Closed Mon Kamakura Beach. A highlight
Tel (0555) 72-5259 Closed Thu Japanese soup curry is served in is the tofu avocado salad.
This izakaya serves excellent a hotpot with lots of hearty meat
grilled fish and is a popular and vegetables. A glowing robot Masudaya ¥¥
drinking spot with the locals. statue greets you at the door. Kaiseki
439–2 Ishiya-machi, Nikko,
Tochigi-ken Closed Thu
Tel (0288) 54-2151
Locally produced yuba (tofu
skin) is the base ingredient for
the delicious kaiseki cuisine at
this reasonably priced restaurant.
Seating also available in the
pleasant garden.
Morisaki ¥¥
Kappo
2-10-18 Komachi, Kamakura,
Kanagawa Prefecture,
Tel (0467) 23-8393
In the tradition of kappo dining,
chef Morisaki carefully prepares
a range of delicious dishes
Enjoy a bowl of hoto noodles in the modern surroundings of Hoto Fudo before your eyes at the counter.
Key to Price Guide see page 130
130-137_EW_Tokyo.indd 136 12/09/16 11:24 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  137

Sakanadon-ya ¥¥
Sushi
Bay Stage Shimoda, 2F, 1-1
Sotogaoka, Shimoda-shi,
Shizuoka Prefecture
Tel (0558) 25-5151
This reasonably priced restaurant
offers kaiten-zushi, or conveyor-
belt sushi. Its location near the
port ensures decent-sized and
good-quality cuts of fish.
Sakanaya Dojo ¥¥
Seafood
1-6-23, Higashihongo, Shimoda-shi,
Shizuoka,
Tel (0558) 25-1330
At this popular and attractive
izakaya with floor seating, order The reconstructed 1958 cityscape at Shin-Yokohama Ramen Museum (see p136)
from the excellent seafood-heavy
menu (the sashimi is particularly Ton Ebi ¥¥ DK Choice
good) and wash your food down Traditional Japanese
with the high-grade sake. 2-1-7, Higashihongo, Shimoda-shi, Heichinrou ¥¥¥
Shizuoka Chinese
DK Choice Tel (0558) 23-0168 149 China Town Main Street,
Yamashita-cho, Naka-Ward,
This tonkatsu restaurant is
Sanrokuen ¥¥ famous for its ebi-furai, or Yokohama City
Robatayaki deep-fried crumbed prawns, Tel (045) 681-3001
3370-1 Funatsu, Fujikawaguchiko- which are crunchy and delicious. Boasting a 120-year history,
machi, Minamitsuru-gun Cheap lunch sets are available. this high-class restaurant
Tel (0555) 73-1000 Closed Thu with a focus on Cantonese
At this fun fireside-cooking Torattoria Rakkio ¥¥ food is one of the oldest
restaurant, diners can sit at a European Chinese restaurants in Japan.
traditional irori, or sunken fire Celebrity Narita 103, 1-2-1 Take advantage of the
pit, and roast their own skewers Hiyoshidai, Tomisato-shi, Chiba reasonably priced set menus
of food. There is a wide range of Prefecture to try traditional delicacies
meat, seafood, and vegetable Tel (0476) 29-5538 Closed Tue such as sea cucumber and
dishes to choose from, and at Find a variety of delectable pasta abalone, famous for their
the end of the meal you can dishes for a reasonable price at unusual texture.
enjoy a hearty bowl of hoto this authentic Italian restaurant
noodles, a local specialty. in Narita. Good wine list.
Hermitage ¥¥¥
Tung Fat/Dohatsu Honkan European
Shikajaya ¥¥ (Yokohama) ¥¥ 22-5 Wakitahoncho, Kawagoe,
Tofu Chinese Saitama Prefecture
640 Yumoto, Hakone-machi, 148 Yamashita-cho, Naka-ku, Tel 049-243-6607
Kanagawa-ken Yokohama Come to this authentic Italian
Tel (0460) 85-5751 Closed Thu Tel (045) 681 7273 Closed 1st and restaurant for the excellent
This vegetarian-friendly restaurant 3rd Tue of month service, the classy setting,
in Hakone specializes in dishes Located on the main drag of and the sublime cuisine. The
made from tofu and yamaimo, Yokohama’s China Town, this scallops and sea urchin pasta
a yam-like potato that can be reliable restaurant specializes is especially recommended.
eaten raw. in Cantonese food.
Shinshin ¥¥ Uotami Imaichiten ¥¥
Kaiseki Traditional Japanese
549-1, Kamicho, Narita-shi, Chiba, 1F, 1385-1 Imaichi, Nikko-shi, Tochigi
286-0032 Prefecture
Tel (0476) 22-4252 Tel (0288) 22-5088
Cheap for a kaiseki, this place This attractive Japanese-style
offers a full range of seafood, izakaya with polished wooden
plus meat dishes such as shabu- floors places a strong focus on
shabu. If you are feeling brave, fish and seafood.
try the fugu (blowfish).
Yama Soba ¥¥
Shokudo Suzuki ¥¥ Noodle
European 704 Yumoto, Hakone-machi,
581-2 Goko-machi, Nikko Ashigarashimo-gun, Kanagawa
Tel (0288) 54-0662 Closed Wed Tel (0460) 85-7889 Closed Thu
Featuring a somewhat cluttered Enjoy delicious soba noodles
yet intimate feel, this pasta shop and tempura set meals while
also serves great yuba dishes, sitting on tatami mats in a Tonkatsu (deep fried pork cutlets),
made from tofu skin. traditional setting. a traditional favorite
For more information on types of restaurants see page 117
130-137_EW_Tokyo.indd 137 12/09/16 11:24 am

138  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN TOKYO


Tokyo is often described as the “warehouse Hills; high-tech convenience stores and
of the world,” and it is possible to procure high-end fashion towns such as Harajuku
anything under the sun here, from and Ginza; and Akihabara, an almost exotic
handcrafted boxwood combs to robot pets. electronic market. The world’s highest
The constant innovation and commercial concentration of vending machines per
ingenuity that characterize the city have capita is also visible at every turn. And,
resulted in a rash of mini shopping cities compared with other global cities, the prices
such as Tokyo Midtown and Omotesando are not as outrageous as presumed.

Prices and Sales Tax
The Japanese yen continues to
be seen as a stable currency.
Cash is by far the easiest
method to pay for most goods.
International credit cards are
still unpop ular in smaller shops.
VISA, Amer ican Express, Diners
Club, and MasterCard are the
most widely accepted.
In department stores and
boutiques, and in inner-city
areas, prices are usually marked
in Arabic numerals. In local shops
and restaurants, and in areas
where non-Japanese are few Youth entertainment area in Shibuya
and far between, prices may be
written only in kanji characters. tax-exemption counters with high-teens shoppers on small
All items and services are English-speaking staff. The budgets. Jimbocho (see p46) is
subject to a consumption tax counters will issue a customs Tokyo’s oldest book center.
of eight percent. The price document, which they will Shibuya (see pp68–9) with its
displayed should by law include attach to your passport for depart ment stores and fashion
the tax, although in practice this presentation when you depart. buildings, is one of the city’s
may not be the case. Large electronic stores in most diverse shopping zones.
Akihabara (see p47), such as Shinjuku, to the west side of
Yodobashi Camera and Laox the station, is all electronics and
Tax-Free Shopping
provide this service. software; the east side has
Tokyo’s tax-free shops offer a department stores and multi-
good range of domestic and Shopping Zones purpose shopping complexes.
imported brand items without
the five percent sales tax Tokyo has many shopping Department Stores
add ed elsewhere. The best zones identified by the popular
authorized outlets are the goods they display. Akihabara Many stores are owned by
Tokyo International Arcade, (see p47) is the world’s largest railroad companies, so that
near the Imperial Hotel (see and most up- to-date electronic passengers coming off from
p112) and Laox (see p47) for and camera center. Aoyama/ their platforms are fed through
electronic goods. Omotesando (see p67 & p70) is passages bulging with
In some shops, particularly known for its high fashion in the advertising and display goods.
department stores (depato), you city. Visit Asakusa for traditional Apart from selling a vast variety
may have to pay the full price Japanese souvenirs, foods, toys, of top-range items, department
for an item, then obtain a refund and pop culture trinkets. stores, like convenience stores,
and customs docu ment from a Daikanyama Address Dixsept also sell tickets for concerts and
tax-exemption counter. This (see pp142–3) has several reput- exhibitions. Roofs are often set
document is retained by ed boutiques, catering to the aside as children’s attraction
customs when you leave Tokyo. young and trend conscious. parks, mini-golf ranges, and
Most major depart ment stores High-end department stores beer gardens. One early
offer tax exemption, but usually and art galleries make their innovator was Mitsukoshi,
on goods over the value of home in Ginza (see pp40–41). perhaps Tokyo’s most famous
¥10,000. One advantage of Harajuku (see p67), a fun street- store. The great flagship stores
shopping at department oriented clothing, accessories, such as Takashimaya and
stores is that they usually have and cuddly toy district, caters to Isetan follow a similar layout,




138-139_EW_Tokyo.indd 138 12/09/16 11:28 am

SHOPPING IN T OK Y O  139

Markets Arcades and Malls
with delectable foods in the
basement, a wide range of Food markets provide an insight Many arcades and malls date
Western and Japanese into the Japanese enthusiasm from the postwar period and,
restaurants on the top floor, for food and cooking. The being generally located in
and every conceivable type basement food floor of a major downtown areas, are old-
of goods between. Some department store is a good fashioned in style and appear-
stores are known for certain place to start. ance. Along the approach to
commodities – Matsuya for A whole street of highly Senso-ji temple (see pp58–9)
top fashion brands and for visible plastic food and is an arcade of shops selling
Japanese crafts, quality kitchenware suppliers along a mixture of tourist souvenirs,
souvenirs, and furnishings; Kappabashi-dori (see p56) traditional crafts, snacks, and
Tokyu Hands for household creates the mood of a lively kitsch pop culture items.
goods, and Wako for watches market place along this well
and jewelry. The Marui 0101 patronized street. The ultimate
department store is the place market experience is Tsukiji Fish
to check out the edgier side Market (see p42); the area to the
of Japanese fashion. east is full of small restaurants
and shops with pungent crates
of wasabi (horseradish) and dried
Multi-Purpose fish hanging from storefronts.
Complexes
Roppongi Hills (see p71), with Convenience Stores
its high-end shopping options,
a prestigious art gallery, and Vending Machines
observation lounge, cinemas, Convenience stores (konbini) are
and live events, was the first easy to spot. They have catchy Fuji-Torii antique shop displaying pottery
of several multipurpose names such as 7-Eleven and
complexes. The Marunouchi AM-PM. Many people depend Antique Stores
and Flea Markets
Building in the Tokyo on these stores for more
Station area has turned than just foods, toilet ries, Flea markets, a Sunday-only
into a sky scraper and mag azines: they also institution, are often held in the
shopping, restaurant, book concert tickets and grounds of old shrines, adding
and office space. use ATMs and photo- extra interest. The Antique Mall
Shiodome, another copiers. The quality of Ginza is one of the largest shop-
shopping, office, and konbini food is surpris- ping malls in Asia specializing
residential nexus, seems ingly high and fresh. in antiques, with around 200
to grow exponentially Among the popular stores selling everything from
with each visit. The take-out food items vintage items, to kimonos,
shopping centerpiece Automatic vending are boxed lunches, imari porcelain bowls, and
of this millennium machine steamed buns, and cup even Western-style curios.
complex, Caretta noodles. Bever ages For more of a one-stop-shop
Shiodome, attracts a young include soft drinks, hot coffee, experience, the Oriental Bazaar
office crowd intent on keeping beer, and sake. Stores are often in Omotesando has genuine
up with the latest in clothing. open 24/7. A Tokyo fixture since and replica antique furniture,
Omotesando Hills (see p67) 1926, besides drinks and snacks, pottery, and a good deal more.
features many Japanese and vending machines dispense Nearby Fuji-Torii is known for
overseas designer stores. Tokyo batteries, flowers, eggs, the quality of its antiques,
Midtown houses several fashion underwear, disposable wood-block prints, tansu chests,
and lifestyle outlets. cameras, and even oxygen. scrolls, and lacquerware craft.
The market at Tomioka-
Hachimangu shrine, held on
the first two Sundays of the
month, is a lively event. With
over 250 stalls, Oedo Market is
the largest outdoor antique
market in Japan, specializing in
items from the Edo era. The
market takes place every first
and third Sunday of the month.
Closer to the cen ter, the market
at Hanazono Shrine, near
Shinjuku’s legend ary watering
hole Golden Gai (see p63), is
Beautiful glass building of Prada store, Aoyama open every Sunday.




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140  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


Books, Music, and Manga
Isseido, an Art Deco Jimbocho
institution, keeps used and rare
books. The biggest stock of
secondhand English titles though,
can be found at Good Day
Books in Shinagawa. Another
specialty store, Crayon House in
Omotesando, caters exclu sively
to children. The younger of the
two Shinjuku Kinokuniya stores
has the best selections of titles
in Tokyo. Maruzen has a good
An elegant display of jewelry in Omotesando choice of titles in its Marunouchi
shop. Tower Records boasts
Cosmetics, Jewelry, The Japan Traditional Craft an up­to­date collection of
and Accessories Center in Ikebukuro is an books. JET SET Records travels
Mikimoto sells its pearls and excellent place for purchasing round the world to source rare
jewelry in opulent surround ings. affordable traditional crafts. secondhand LPs, as well as
It will remain closed for reno­ producing its own records. A
vations until spring 2017. For a keystone of the Japanese indie
selection of silver and jewelry, visit Contemporary Art world, the Shinjuku branch of
and Design
Mori Silver in the Oriental Bazaar the Disk Union chain has the
and Atlier Shinji Ginza, who The Spiral Garden in Minami­ best stock. Manga fans will love
make their own silver jewelry with Aoyama’s Spiral Building (see Mandarake in the Shibuya
a focus on natural and Japanese p70) usually has something Beam building for its second­
motifs. Nakamise­dori at Senso­ji interesting by Japanese artists. hand magazines and related
temple (see pp58–9) is the place In Ginza, you can find works products. Sekaido in Shinjuku
to find Japan’s traditional jewelry. by Japanese artists at Galleria has a good range of manga.
Ginkado sells kanzashi (hairpins), Grafica, Gallery Seizan, and
costume swords, and fans. Next Yoseido Gallery. Ginza Graphic
door is Bunsendo, also selling fans. Gallery exhibits both Japanese
The last maker of handmade and foreign works. The Karakuri
wooden combs is Jusanya in Museum in Shibuya displays
Ueno. The red, stucco facade of and sells artworks based on
the Shiseido The Ginza in Ginza optical illusions. Located in the
is complemented by the Shiseido Tokyo Opera City building (see
Cosmetics Garden in Omotesando. p179) in Shinjuku, the NTT
For “cute” culture accessories, Take­ Inter Communication Center
shita­dori (see p67) is hard to beat. features exhibits and installations
using the latest technology. In
the same building is the Tokyo
Traditonal Arts and Opera City Gallery, which Boxed sweets decorated with characters
Crafts
displays Japanese painting, in a Kabuki play
Maruzen in Nihonbashi is an and graphic art. Contemporary
excellent source of traditional arts prints can be found at the Specialty Shops
and crafts including ceramics, Tolman Collection near Tokyo Head to Sanbido for religious
woodcraft, and lacquer­ Tower. For ceramics, try statues and beautiful dolls;
ware, as is Takumi in Koransha in Ginza. Good Nishijima Umbrellas has
Ginza. Itoya, also in sources of modern traditional umbrellas, while
Ginza, is packed house ware are the Tokiwado has kaminari okoshi
with crafts, depart ment stores crackers. Nakatsuka sells
especially fine Tokyu Hands candies and sweet crackers,
washi (Japanese and Matsuya. and Kappabashi­dori (see p56)
paper). Kurodaya, For cutting­edge is the place for kitchenware
at Senso­ji temple, interior design, head and plastic food. Puppet House
has been selling washi to Axis in Roppongi, is a shop, gallery, and workshop.
since the mid­19th Ironware kettle, a complex of galleries Isetatsu specializes in chiyo gami
century and stocks Japan Traditional selling kitchenware, designs taken from textiles
everything from Craft Center cera mics, furniture, worn by samurai; and
modern station ery to and more. Shibuya’s Sagemonoya sells antique
traditional kites. The Japan Folk Loft has several floors of con­ netsuke, small, ornate
Crafts Museum (see p79) has a temporary novelty housewares, accessories designed to
small, high­quality selection. jewelry, accessories, and toys. hang from kimono belts.




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SHOPPING IN T OK Y O  141



DIRECTORY
Department Oriental Bazaar Takumi Disk Union
Stores 5-9-13 Jingumae. Map 1 8-4-2 Ginza. Map 5 B3. 3-31-4 Shinjuku. Map 1
B4. Tel (03) 3400-3933. Tel (03) 3571-2017. B5. Tel (03) 3352-2691.
Isetan
3-14-1 Shinjuku. Map 1 Tomioka- Contemporary Good Day Books
B1. Tel (03) 3352-1111. Hachimangu Shrine Art and Design Tōkai Building, 3F,
Market 2-4-2 Nishi-Gotanda,
Marui 0101 1-20-3 Tomioka. Map 6 Shinagawa-ku. Map 4 F3.
3-30-13 Shinjuku. Map 1 E2. Tel (03) 3642-1345. Axis Tel (03) 6303-9116.
5-17-1 Roppongi. Map 2
B1. Tel (03) 3354-0101. E5. Tel (03) 3587-2781. Isseido
Matsuya Cosmetics, 1-7 Kanda Jimbocho.
3-6-1 Ginza. Map 5 C2. Jewelry, and Galleria Grafica Map 3 B5.
Tel (03) 3567-1211. Accessories Ginza S2 Bldg, 6-13-4 Tel (03) 3292-0071.
Ginza. Map 5 B3.
Mitsukoshi Atlier Shinji Ginza Tel (03) 5550-1335. JET SET Records
1-4-1 Nihonbashi Muro- 5-13-11 Ginza. 2-33-12 Kitazawa, Seta-
machi. Map 5 C1. Map 5 C3. Gallery Seizan gaya-ku. Tel (03) 5452-2262.
Tel (03) 3241-3311. Tel (03) 5565-5950. 5-14-16 Ginza.
Map 5 C3. Kinokuniya
Takashimaya Bunsendo Tel (03) 3546-7356. 5-24-2 Sendagaya
5-24-2 Sendagaya. Map 1 1-20-2 Asakusa. Map 4 F3. Shibuya-ku. Map 1 B1.
B2. Tel (03) 5361-1111. Tel (03) 3841-0088. Ginza Graphic Gallery Tel (03) 5361-3301.
DNP Ginza Bldg,
Tokyu Hands Ginkado 7-7-2 Ginza. Map 5 B3. Mandarake
12-18 Udagawacho, 1-30-1 Asakusa. Map 4 F3. Tel (03) 3571-5206. Shibuya Beams B2, 31-2
Shibuya. Map 1 B5. Tel (03) 3841-8540. Udagawacho, Shibuya.
Tel (03) 5489-5111. Jusanya Karakuri Museum Map 1 A5.
Wako 2-12-21 Ueno.Map 3 C3. King Bldg 2F, Shibuya Tel (03) 3477-0777.
2-9-10. Map 1 C5.
4-5-11 Ginza. Map 5 B2. Tel (03) 3831-3238. Tel (03) 3599-3313. Maruzen
Tel (03) 3562-2111. Mikimoto Koransha See Traditional Arts
Multi-Purpose 4-5-5 Ginza. Map 5 B3. 6-14-20 Ginza. Map 5 B3. and Crafts.
Tel (03) 3535-4611.
Complexes Tel (03) 3543-0951. Sekaido
Oriental Bazaar 3-1-1 Shinjuku. Map 1 B1.
Caretta Shiodome See Antique Stores and Flea Loft Tel (03) 5379-1111.
1-8-2 Higashi-Shimbashi. Markets. 21-1 Udagawacho,
Map 5 B3. Shibuya. Map 1 B5. Tower Records
Tel (03) 6218-2100. Shiseido The Ginza Tel (03) 3462-3807. 1-22-14 Jinnan, Shibuya.
7-8-10 Ginza. Map 5 B3. Map 1 B5. Tel (03) 3496-3661.
Marunouchi Building Tel (03) 3571-7731. Matsuya
2-4-1 Marunouchi. Map 5 See Department Stores. Specialty Shops
B1. Tel (03) 5218-5100. Traditional Arts NTT InterCommuni- Isetatsu
Omotesando Hills and Crafts cation Center 2-18-9 Yanaka. Map 3 B1.
4-12-10 Jingumae, Itoya Tel (0120) 144-199. Tel (03) 3823-1453.
Omotesando. Map 1 C4. 3-7-1 Ginza. Map 5 C2.
Tel (03) 3497-0310. Tel (03) 3561-8311. Tokyo Opera City Nakatsuka
Gallery
1-37-1 Asakusa. Map 4 F3.
Tokyo Midtown Japan Folk Crafts Tel (03) 5353-0756. Tel (03) 3843-4455.
9-7-1 Akasaka. Map 2 E4. Museum
Tel (03) 3475-3100. 4-3-33 Komaba. Tokyu Hands Nishijima Umbrellas
Tel (03) 3467-4527. See Department Stores. 1-30-1 Asakusa. Map 4 F3.
Antique Stores Tolman Collection Tel (03) 3841-8560.
and Flea Markets Japan Traditional 2-2-18 Shiba Daimon. Puppet House
Craft Center
Antique Mall Metropolitan Plaza Bldg Map 5 A4. 1-8 Shimomiyabi-cho, Shin-
juku.Tel (03) 5229-6477.
Ginza 1- 2F, 1-11-1 Nishi- Tel (03) 3434-1300.
Da Vinci Building, 1-13-1 Ikebukuro. Yoseido Gallery Sagemonoya
Ginza. Map 5 C2. Tel (03) 5954-6066. 5-5-15 Ginza. Map 5 B2. Palais Eternal 704,
Tel (03) 3535-2115. Tel (03) 3571-1312. 4-28-20 Yot suya.
Kurodaya
Fuji-Torii 1-2-5 Asakusa. Tel (03) 3352-6286.
6-1-10 Jingumae. Map 1 Map 4 F3. Books, Music, Sanbido
C4. Tel (03) 3400-2777. Tel (03) 3844-7511. and Manga 1-33-3 Asakusa. Map 4 F3.
Oedo Market Maruzen Crayon House Tel (03) 5827-0070.
Tokyo Int. Forum, 3-5-1 Oazo Bldg, 1-6-4 3-8-15 Kita-Aoyama. Tokiwado
Marunouchi. Map 5 B2. Marunouchi. Map 5 C1. Map 1 C5. 3-6-1 Asakusa. Map 4 E3.
Tel (03) 6407-6011. Tel (03) 5288-8881. Tel (03) 3406-6308. Tel (03) 3841-5656.
140-141_EW_Tokyo.indd 141 12/09/16 11:28 am

142  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Clothing Aoyama’s Comme des Garçons
store, the brainchild of radical
The pace of change in a city where everything seems designer Rei Kawakubo, is
temporary is perfectly suited to Tokyo’s fast-moving fashion well worth a look for the
world. Extensive media coverage of the fashion industry, building alone. Also in
relatively high disposable incomes among the young, and the contiguous Aoyama/
Omotesando/Jingumae
an active nightlife have made Tokyo one of the trendiest, districts, Prada Aoyama, the
most visible fashion centers on the globe. Snapping at the latest addition to Minami-
heels of the fashion establishment with their Paris and New Aoyama’s high-end fashion
York outlets are brat packs of emerging, young Japanese scene, is another shopping-
designers creating a host of trendy labels. Some of the leading plus-architecture experience.
The flowing fabrics and
fashion houses in the world now call Tokyo their home.
color ful embroidery that
characte rize Tsumori Chisato
designs, on show in her
Shibuya store, enjoy an almost
cult following among women.
The more radical but fun
Hysteric Glamour has had a
similar effect on the tastes of
punk-inclined customers not
afraid to wear T-shirts with
provoca tive messages. For a
good mix of women’s fashions,
accessories, and cosmetics,
Daikanyama Address Dixsept,
a retail complex with an open-
air plaza and interesting interior
Young shoppers browsing through the latest Western wear, Shibuya 109 consisting of suspension
bridges, makes for a great
Fashion Buildings Women’s Fashions
half-day fashion shopping
Fashion buildings house Ginza has always been trip. The complex is a little
exclusive boutiques, often with synonymous with high chic to the northwest of
a collective theme, target age and prices to match. Large Daikanyama Station.
group, or approach to design. department stores such as
The modern, inno vative Mitsukoshi (see p141) have
architecture of the buildings always been the arbiters of Menswear
themselves adds much interest taste here, offering classic Young Japanese males are
to the entire shopping design cuts, which appeal to almost as fashion conscious as
experience. women in their 30s and women, though there are not
Shibuya 109 is a silver, circular upwards. Luxury foreign brands as many exclusive mens wear
tower housing several such as Gucci and Chanel have shops in Tokyo. The following
boutiques renowned for teen opened super-modern recommendations also feature
fashions. It also stages fashion outlets, providing women’s fashions. Muji design
promotion events in front of the designer shoes, aesthetics – cool, simple,
building. Mark City, a towering handbags, understated – are well known
modern building connected by cosmetics, the world over. Besides clothes
passageways to Shibuya Station, and other chic and accessories, its Roppongi
is a more ambitious project. accessories. store has a good line in simple
Labyrin thine floors of boutiques homeware designs.
and accessory stores aimed at The singular and arresting
the 20s and 30s age group, designs of Yohji Yamamoto,
provide a social setting with another household name in
restaurants, bakeries, and trendy the Japanese fashion cosmos,
cafés. The LaForet Building, a seem to go from strength to
Harajuku land mark, is strictly for strength. The interior of the
teen shoppers. Venus Fort (see bronze-faced store in
p84), a retail outlet targeted at Omotesando is well worth a
women in Odaiba, looks more look. The name Issey Miyake
like an Italian film set than a needs no introduction. The
fashion store. Food courts, cafés, anarchist designer burst onto
trinket stalls, and trendy shops Trendy women’s wear, Dolce and Gabbana the scene in the 1980s with his
create a faux Italian street scene. showroom, Omotesando innovative use of fabrics, design




142-143_EW_Tokyo.indd 142 12/09/16 11:28 am

SHOPPING IN T OK Y O  143


DIRECTORY
Fashion Buildings
LaForet Building
1-11-6 Jingumae. Map 1 C5.
Tel (03) 3475-0411.
Mark City
1-12-1, Dogenzaka. Map 1 B5.
Tel (03) 3780-6503.
Shibuya 109
2-29-1 Dogenzaka. Map 1 B5.
Tel (03) 3477-5111.
Venus Fort
1-3-15 Aomi Odaiba.
Tel (03) 3599-0700.
Women’s Fashions
A variety of basics for men and women, Uniqlo store, Aoyama Comme des Garçons
5-2-1 Minami-Aoyama.
forms, and shapes to create kimono at the waist. Hayashi Map 1 C5. Tel (03) 3406-3951.
expensive but highly regarded Kimono in Yurakucho, sells Daikanyama Address
work. The window displays are classic outfits but also a Dixsept
a joy. Nearby Undercover is light cotton summer version 17-6 Daikanyama-cho Shibuya.
the brainchild of Jun Takahashi, called yukata, which can be Tel (03) 3461-5586.
a punk musician whose comfortable house wear. Hysteric Glamour
designs are inspired The Oriental Bazaar 6-23-2 Jingumae. Map 1 B5.
by the music his (see p139) and Uniqlo Tel (03) 3409-7227.
band plays. offer a good range
The menswear at of yukata. Asakusa’s Prada Aoyama
Uniqlo, a popular Nakamise-dori 5-2-6 Minami-Aoyama.
Map 1 C5. Tel (03) 6418-0400.
clothing chain with (see p58) has a lot
branches overseas, is of less expensive fabric Tsumori Chisato
simple, contemporary, kimonos in bright colors, 4-21-25 Minami-Aoyama.
and bottom-line for many the assumption being Map 1 C5. Tel (03) 3423-5170.
shoppers at this store that foreigners like
along Jingumae’s Meiji- brilliant, gaudy designs. Menswear
dori. The fashions here Kimono with There are some terrific Issey Miyake
target all age groups. an obi sash traditional and modern 3-18-11 Minami-Aoyama
kimonos and textile Map 1 C5. Tel (03) 3423-1407.
bargains to be found
Textiles and Kimonos at the eclectic Sunday flea Muji
Silk, cotton, linen, and hemp markets (see p139). 3-8-3 Marunouchi. Map 5 B2.
Tel (03) 5208-8241.
all feature in Japan’s long and
rich textile history. While some Undercover
traditional techniques are 5-3-22 Minami-Aoyama.
fading, most are alive and Map 1 C5. Tel (03) 3407-1232.
well. Depart ment stores are Uniqlo
often the best places to find 6-10-8 Jingumae. Map 1 B4.
a varied range of textiles, Tel (03) 5468-7313.
from bolts of kimono cloth Yohji Yamamoto
made in Kyoto to textured 5-3-6 Minami-Aoyama. Map 1 C5.
furoshiki (square wrapping Tel (03) 3409-6006.
cloths). The shop at the
Tokyo National Museum (see Textiles and Kimonos
pp52–5) has a good selection
of furoshiki and scarves made Bengara
using traditional techniques. 1-35-6 Asakusa. Map 4 F3.
Also good is Bengara. Tel (03) 3841-6613.
Miyashita Obi on Nakamise- Hayashi Kimono
dori at Senso-ji temple (see 2-1-1 Yurakucho. Map 5 B2.
pp58–9) has wonderful obi A colorful kimono with traditional Tel (03) 3501-4012.
sashes, used to wrap a floral motifs




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144  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS


Gifts, Gizmos, and Toys gifts. Markets (see p139) and
even super markets have
In the first months after World War II, de-mobbed men and interesting and unfamiliar
displaced persons would spread a towel or newspaper on the food items as well, from sembei
incinerated wasteland around main stations, and display a (rice crackers) to traditional
saucepan or worn kimono in the hope of finding a customer. Japanese confections. The main
ingredient of Japanese sweets is
These were the tentative beginnings of the black markets. anko, red bean paste, which
Since then, consumers have long moved from desiring may be an acquired taste for
just basic necessities to acquiring gifts, gizmos, and the some Westerners. These
novelties that flood Tokyo’s markets. beautifully made confections
are called wagashi in Japanese,
and are often taken with green
Gift Shops
tea. Toraya is famous – it
The Japanese are not only supplies the imperial family. This
avid buyers of souvenirs when Akasaka institution changes its
they venture overseas, but sweet motifs to reflect the
excellent customers for the seasons. Branches of Akebono
interesting products of their selling exquisite sweets can be
own country. The result is found in the food basements
countless gift shops. of some of the best Tokyo
The traditional and modern department stores. The origins
stationery, origami paper, and of Iidabashi Mannendo in
calligraphy tools sold at Itoya in Iidabashi, date back to the 17th
Ginza, make light, affordable, century, when it began making
and portable gifts. The articles sweets based on recipes from
at Japan Sword, the oldest the old imperial city of Kyoto.
dealer in authentic Japanese Alcohol is freely available in
blades, are a little heavier and Tokyo. Individual sake shops
more expensive, not to mention and, once again, department
dangerous. Replicas of the An eye-catching chopsticks box, store basements have shelves
swords are also sold. The a traditional souvenir full of nihonshu (the word “sake”
shop and exhibition space can actually refer to all alcoholic
are located in the business to do one-stop shopping. Large drinks). The choice, though, can
district of Toranomon. railroad terminuses, especially be quite bewil dering, involving
Right in the heart of Shibuya, Tokyo Station, are crammed some knowledge of grades and
Do is the stylish Claska Hotel’s with souvenir and gift shops. provenance. For an initiation
gift shop. The hotel is known into the mysteries of the drink,
for its design, and the gift Sake Plaza in Shimbashi has
shop follows the same model. Food and Drink excellent displays. Entrance
Occasionally, it also shows Department store basements to the plaza is free, and for a
works by local artists. have the largest and most small fee visitors can enjoy a
Craft and gift sections of interesting single selections of five-cup sampling.
reputed department stores ready-to-go Japanese foods of
(see p139) are logical places the kind that make interesting
Gadgets and Gizmos
Tokyu Hands, a treasure trove
of inventive and original
household goods, is a good
place to start for general items
from fancy dress costumes to
trick store treats evoking a sense
of fun. The Don Quixote stores,
such as the popular one in
Shinjuku, are stuffed to the
ceilings with novelty, “character”
goods, costume wear, mixed
in with snacks, camping gear,
and ironing boards. For a
combination of electronics
and eccentricities, Akihabara
(see p47) is hard to beat. Labi
and Sofmap are two huge
Bewildering variety of sweets in a store on Nakamise-dori, Akihabara electronic department stores




144-145_EW_Tokyo.indd 144 12/09/16 11:28 am

SHOPPING IN T OK Y O  145



DIRECTORY
Gift Shops
Do
Shibuya Parco Part 1B1,
15-1 Udagawa-cho. Map 1 B5.
Tel (03) 5456-2833.
Itoya
2-7-15 Ginza. Map 5 C2.
Tel (03) 3561-8311.
Japan Sword
3-8-1 Toranomon. Map 5 A3.
Electronics store stacked with low-priced gadgets, Akihabara Tel (03) 3434-4321.
∑ japansword.co.jp
here. Akky and Takarada surprising numbers of adults Food and Drink
Musen are also duty-free stores. shop for themselves in the toy
Yodobashi Akiba and Onoden stores, a reminder that a sense Akebono
are other names to look out for of playfulness is alive and well 5-7-19 Ginza. Tel (03) 3571-3640.
in this “Electric Town.” Young among the hard-working ∑ ginza-akebono.co.jp/top.
women dressed as anime Tokyoites. These places are html
characters from classic series among the best in the world to Iidabashi Mannendo
such as Sailor Moon and Neon pick up souve nirs and the latest 1F Toku Bldg, 2-19 Agebacho.
Genesis Evangelion greet craze among children before it Tel (03) 3266-0544.
customers outside AsoBitCity, hits the international market.
which, in addition to software Hakuhinkan Toy Park in Ginza Sake Plaza
games and peripherals, sells has always been a Mecca for Nihon Shuzo Kaikan 1-4F,
“character” goods and large toys and still is, with several 1-1-21 Nishi-Shimbashi.
Map 5 A3
model train sets. More crowded floors to prove it; try Tel (03) 3519-2091.
Akihabara wonders await at not to go on a weekend. The ∑ japansake.or.jp/sake/
Tsukumo Robot Kingdom, six floors of toys, games, and english
where the specialty are cute, novelties at Kiddyland in
owner-friendly robots – Jingumae are a wonder to Toraya
mechanized turtles, cats, dogs, behold. Besides conventional Tokyu Plaza Akasaka, 2F, 2-14-3
insects, and fictitious creatures. toys, kits, and games, all the Nagata-cho, Chiyoda-ku.
popular anime characters Map 2 E3. Tel (03) 6547-9784.
∑ toraya-group.co.jp
are here too, from Pokemon
Toys
to Hello Kitty. Another toy Gadgets and Gizmos
One of the nice things about store popular with fans of
Tokyo toy stores is that nobody Japanese anime characters is AsoBitCity
seems to mind if you pick Yamashiroya in Ueno. Almost 1-15-18 Soto-Kanda. Map 3 C4.
things up and play with them, everything from the world of Tel (03) 5298-3581.
even if you are a lone adult. Japanese toys can be found at Don Quixote
Customers are treated with this massive store, including 1-16-5 Kabukicho. Map1 B1.
a measure of tolerance and model kits, soft toys, and an Tel (03) 5291-9211.
indulgence in Tokyo. And assortment of games.
Tokyu Hands
12-18 Udagawacho, Shibuya.
Map 1 B5. Tel (03) 5489-5111.
Tsukumo Robot Kingdom
1-9-7 Soto-Kanda. Map 3 C4.
Tel (03) 3251-0987.
Toys
Hakuhinkan Toy Park
8-8-11 Ginza. Map 5 B3.
Tel (03) 3571-8008.
Kiddyland
6-1-9 Jingumae. Map 1 B4.
Tel (03) 3409-3431.
Yamashiroya
6-14-6 Ueno, Taito-ku. Map 3 C3.
Tel (03) 3831-2320.
Stuffed toys in all sizes at Kiddyland, a major kids’ toy store in Jingumae




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146  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN TOKYO


Entertainment in Tokyo is a wonderful mix even Western classical music. Tokyo enjoys
of the old world and the cutting edge. a pulsating and truly international club
Traditional performing arts span the culture; at many places, you can dance till
vibrancy of Kabuki theater to the haunting dawn. Sports fans have a choice between
tones of a shakuhachi recital. Tokyo is the baseball and soccer, or the more traditional
best place to catch the latest in movies forms of martial arts, as well as sumo.
and music from around the world. The At night, the city puts on a different face,
abundance of live music on offer ranges and the brightly lit leisure districts show
from jazz and blues to pop and techno, and how serious Tokyo is about fun.


Japanese-speaker at hand will
help. Reserva tions can also be
made online, at convenience
stores such as Lawson, or
through the Metropolis website.

Cinema
There are several specialist
cinemas that screen movies
from Asia, as well as Europe
and the US. How ever, most
non-Japanese films are shown
in the original lang uage with
Japanese sub titles. The Tokyo
Kabuki performance in Kabuki-za Theater International Film Festival
(see p32) is be coming
Information Sources agent or hotel travel desk. For increasingly high profile.
Metropolis, a free weekly concerts and sporting events, the There are also several other
magazine and website is a two major ticket agencies are interesting film festivals,
good source of information Ticket PIA and CN Playguide. showcasing both domestic
on leisure acti vi ties in the They can be hard to reach by and international movies.
city. Tokyo Weekender also phone. It is easier to book in Cinema prices are not cheap,
focuses primarily on the big city, person; a conve nient office averaging around ¥1,800.
but it has a good travel section is Ticket PIA at Ginza’s Sony On Cinema Day, usually the
which covers other parts of the Building (see p40). Department first of each month, tickets
country as well. The Japan and convenience stores also are reduced. In Shibuya,
Times, Asahi Shimbun, The have ticket desks, sometimes Bunkamura (see p68) some-
Japan News, and Japan Today with English-speaking assistants. times shows Japanese films
also have comprehensive Alternati vely, book directly by with English subtitles and is
listings. All of these publications phoning the venue; payment known for screen ing indepen-
are in English and avail able at is made when the tickets are dent and European films.
station kiosks and major stores picked up. Most agencies speak Also in Shibuya, Theater
including Kinokuniya (see p62), only Japanese, so having a Image Forum uses the most
Tower Records (see p69), and
Maruzen (see p141). Infor mation
on current events in and around
Tokyo is also given on the JNTO
(see p159) website. Other useful
online resources include Go
Tokyo, Realtokyo, and Tokyo
Food Page.

Booking Tickets
Popular traditional Japanese
entertainment, such as Kabuki
and sumo, are best reserved
ahead of time through a travel Movie poster in Shinjuku, one of Tokyo’s centers for cinema




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ENTER T AINMENT IN T OK Y O  147

Live Music come alive. Club Quattro can
The finest venues for orchestral be claustrophobic but gets top
concerts are the New National international acts; Duo Music
Theater, Suntory Hall, NHK Hall, Exchange and O-West often
Orchard Hall in Bunka mura (see specialize in techno and J-pop.
p68), Sumida Triphony Hall, Eggman and the ever-eclectic
and the two halls of the Tokyo SuperDeluxe showcase experi-
International Forum (see p45). mental, fringe, and upcoming
The New National Theater and talent. Live bands also play at
Orchard Hall also stage opera many of the Irish pubs as well
and ballet performances. as the Pink Cow, a casual, artsy
Tokyo has a vibrant jazz scene hangout, popular with expats.
too, reflected in the large number
of clubs and the quality of the
Yebisu Garden Cinema, a popular cinema visiting artists. Blue Note Tokyo is Karaoke
hall for foreign films the best-known club (although The boom for belting out
prices are high and sets are popular hits to backing music
advanced digital technology. short). Other places that attract tracks dates from the 1960s but
The more centrally located Toho world-class perfor mers include remains as popular as ever
Cinemas Chanter shows art- B Flat, Shinjuku Pit Inn, and today in Japan, the birth-
house and independent films. the Cotton Club. Billboard place of
Marunouchi Piccadilly, in the Live offers an eclectic mix karaoke. Trans-
Mullion Building in Yurakucho of music, with mostly lated as “empty
(see p40), has five screens, while Japanese artists. Blues orchestra,” karaoke
Yebisu Garden Cinema (see p78) Alley Japan is a small is enjoyed in tradi-
has two. Currently, the most club featuring blues tional bars, lively
comfortable cinema in the city and jazz artists. pubs, at home, and in
is at the nine-screen complex Ever since the major enter tainment
in Roppongi Hills (see p71), part Beatles played at dis tricts, at karaoke
of the Toho Cinema group, Nippon Budokan “boxes.” These compl exes
with an in-house bar and in 1966, Tokyo has range from small, cozy
late-night screenings. been an essential rooms for couples to much
Anyone with an interest in stop on the world larger spaces for
classic Japanese cinema should itinerary of pop and Street musician giving groups of friends or
visit the superb National Film rock bands. Both a live performance of fice parties. Food
Center (see p44). Fans of ani- the aging Budokan and drinks can be
mation should visit Ghibli and the cavern ous Tokyo Dome ordered. The most perfor med
Museum; it displays the work sta dium have poor acoustics. numbers are local pop songs,
of pioneering anime director Smaller and far better venues current and classic; enka, the
Hayao Miyazaki, whose films include the inconveniently Japan ese equivalent of French
include Spirited Away (2001) located Zepp Tokyo, Nakano chanson; and some Western pop
and Howl’s Moving Castle (2004). Sun Plaza, and Liquid Room. hits. Karaoke-kan in Shibuya
Womb hosts international (see pp68–9) is the famed
superstars such as the Chemical location used in the movie Lost
International Theater Brothers and Paul Oakenfold. As in Translation. For the best selec-
The international theater with jazz, though, it is the more tion of songs in English follow
scene in Tokyo encompasses intimate venues where gigs the expats to Smash Hits.
everything from Shakespeare
and Broadway musicals to
comedy, classical ballet, and
modern dance. The main ven-
ues are in Shinjuku, Shibuya,
and Marunouchi. Although
some foreign tour ing comp-
anies come through Tokyo,
most shows are in Japanese,
with local actors of a consist-
ently high standard. The Tokyo
Comedy Store offers non-
Japanese and Japanese the
chance to exhibit their comedy
skills in English on the fourth
Friday of the month at the
Crocodile club in Harajuku. An extravagant opera performance in New National Theater




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148  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Other Martial Arts Soccer fans may want to visit the
The center for martial arts in Nissan Stadium, Japan’s largest
Japan is the Nippon Budokan, stadium and host to the 2002
and this is where the top World Cup final. It is the home of
tournaments in judo, karate, the J-League’s Yokohama F. Mari-
and kendo (wooden sword nos. The Ajinomoto Stadium is
fighting) are held. There are home to FC Tokyo and Tokyo
dojo (practice halls) for the Verdy 1969, both J-League teams.
various martial arts through out Tickets are available at the sta-
Tokyo. Not all are open to non- dium on the day of the match.
Japanese as observers or
participants. Contact Tokyo Other Spectator Sports
TIC (see p159) for a list of dojos
that allow spectators. To Other sports with a significant
participate in martial arts train- presence include rugby, tennis,
ing, contact one of the nation al volleyball, swimming, athletics,
Sumo wrestlers compete at Tokyo’s Ryogoku regulatory bodies. basketball, cycling, and motor
Sumo Hall sports. Racing (horses, speed-
boats, or cycling) generates
Sumo
fervent interest, especially since
Three sumo tournaments gambling is allowed through
(basho) are held in Tokyo each official channels. Details of
year, in January, May, and competitions are given in the
September, all at the impressive sports pages of Metropolis.
10,000-seat Ryogoku Sumo
Hall in Ryogoku (see p76). The Pachinko
15-day tournaments begin on
a Sunday, with each wrestler Pachinko (see p69) is like an
fighting one bout a day. The electronic vertical pinball and its
action starts at 2:30pm with prac titioners appear hypno tized
the lowest-ranking wrestlers; by the bright lights and trance-
the top ranked appear from 5 Nippon Budokan, an important center inducing electronic music. Not
to 6pm. The highest-ranking for all martial arts just a pas time, it is a form of gamb-
wrestler, usually a yokozuna Baseball and Soccer ling. Winnings are ex chang ed for
(grand champion) will com- goods, which are then bought
pete in the last bout. Baseball is regarded as Japan’s de back (off the premises, to remain
The best views are on the facto national sport. Professional within the law). To experience
north side of the stadium. baseball teams are split between pachinko firsthand, try the
Seating in the main audito rium the Central League and the Pacific Maruhan Shinjuku Toho
is Japanese-style, in individual League. The Tokyo-based Yomiuri Building, located in the Toho
boxes. These are cramped and Giants (Central League) are Japan’s Cinema complex in the heart of
more expensive than the seats most popular team. Their engaging Kabukicho. This foreigner-friendly
upstairs, but much closer to games in the soaring Tokyo Dome parlor has how-to-play guides in
the action. Tickets should be are always sold out. The Yakult mutiple languages and an English
booked in advance. Easiest to Swallows (also Central League) speaking staff to help first-timers
get are midweek tickets in the play at the Jingu Stadium. Book navigate their way through the
first week of a tournament. If tickets ahead of time. cryptic world of pachinko.
you cannot buy tickets via an
agency, try asking your hotel
to check for returns, or just
line up at the stadium itself.
It is possible to watch
practice sessions at sumo
stables, or beya. They are open
to anyone who wants to watch,
with a few basic rules – do not
eat or use a camera flash, and
be silent. Most of the beya are
situated near Ryogoku station.
Visitors can make a trip to the
Kasugano Beya, a tall building
with a green copper gable over
the entrance, the Izutsu Beya,
or the Dewanoumi Beya. Sportsgear on display at the Baseball Hall of Fame, Tokyo Dome




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