(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Tokyo

T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA  49

NORTHERN TOKYO

The northern districts of Ueno and Asakusa around the bustling Senso-ji temple,
contain what remains of Tokyo’s old its main approach packed with shops. Ueno
Shitamachi (low city). Once the heart and is dominated by its huge park containing,
soul of Edo culture (see p27), Shitamachi among others, the National and Shitamachi
became the subject of countless ukiyo-e museums. It is still possible to find pockets
wood-block prints (see p57). Merchants and of narrow streets lined with tightly packed
artisans thrived here, as did Kabuki theater homes, especially in the Yanaka area, which
(see p19) and the Yoshiwara pleasure district escaped destruction by war and earthquake.
near Asakusa. One of the last great battles Shopping is a pleasure in Northern Tokyo. As
in Japan took place in Ueno in 1868, when well as the traditional arts and crafts shops
the Emperor Meiji’s forces defeated the near Senso-ji temple, there are specialists in
Tokugawa shogunate. Ueno and Asakusa plastic food in Kappabashi-dori, religious
are the best parts of Tokyo for just strolling items in neighboring Inaricho, and a wide
and observing. Life in Asakusa still revolves variety of other goods at Ameyoko Market.


Sights at a Glance
Temples Museums
8 Senso-ji Temple pp58–9 2 Tokyo National Museum pp52–5
Parks and Gardens 3 Shitamachi Museum
1 Ueno Park pp50–51 6 Drum Museum
Notable Districts Markets
5 Inaricho District and 4 Ameyoko Market
Kappabashi-dori Monuments
7 Tokyo SkyTree

Nippori
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I Sendagi CEMETERY See also Street Finder

YANAKA
YANAKA
Uguisudani 0 meters 500 500 maps 3 & 4
0 yards
K O T O T O I - D O R I
NEZU
Nezu K O T O T O I - D O R I
UENO E X P R E S S W AY N O . 1
ZOO
UENO MATSUGAYA NISHI-
P ARK ASAKUSA
Asakusa
(Tsukuba
Ueno KAPPA BASHI -DO R I Express line)
Keisei- INARICHO ASAKUSA
Shinobazu Ueno Inaricho NAKAMISE- DORI
Pond KAMINARIMON-
T AITO-KU A S A K U S A - D O R I Tawaramachi DORI Asakusa
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
MOTO-
UENO Ueno- ASAKUSA 1.7 km
Okachimachi
Uenohirokoji Shin- KOTOBUKI


Yushima Okachimachi Okachimachi K O K U S A I - D O R I
Naka K A S U G A - D O R I E D O - D O R I S u m i d a R i v e r
SHOKEIBASHI- DORI C H U O - D O R I TAITO KOJIMA MISUJI Kuramae
Okachimachi

KURAMAE
K U R A M A E B A S H I - D O R I
Tokyo SkyTree towering over other buildings in Northern Tokyo For keys to symbols see back flap
048-049_EW_Tokyo.indd 49 12/09/16 11:23 am

50  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

1 Ueno Park
Ueno Park
Ieyasu, the first Tokugawa shogun, built the Kanei-ji temple
and subtemples here in the 17th century to negate evil spirits
that might threaten from the northeast. Judging by how long
the Tokugawas lasted, it was a wise move. In 1873, five years
after the Battle of Ueno, when the last supporters of the
shogun were crushed by imperial forces, the government Boating on the Shinobazu pond
designated Ueno a public park. A favorite since its earliest days,
the park has figured in many popular wood-block prints and
short stories. Shinobazu Pond (actually three ponds) is an
annual stop for thousands of migrating birds. Several museums
and temples are dotted around the park, and Japan’s oldest
zoo, which is also one of the country’s best, is here.
. Pagoda
This landmark five-story
pagoda dates from the 17th Ueno Zoo
century and is a survivor from
the original Kanei-ji temple
complex. Today it stands in
the grounds of Ueno Zoo,
a popular destination for
Japanese schoolchildren,
among others, thanks to its
giant pandas.









. Tosho-gu Shrine
This ornate complex of halls is one of
Tokyo’s few remain ing Edo-era structures.
Ieyasu was enshrined here and later
reburied at Nikko (see pp100–101).

KEY
1 Shitamachi Museum (see p56)
2 Gojoten shrine is reached Benten Hall
through a series of red torii (gates).
3 The Great Buddhist Pagoda
was built in 1967.
4 The Tokyo Metropolitan Art
Museum has a large collection of Shinobazu Pond
contemporary Japanese art.
5 Tokyo National Museum
(see pp52–5)
6 The main walkway is lined
with hundreds of cherry trees.
Ueno
7 The Tomb of the Shogi Tai is Station
dedicated to the many samurai who
died in the 1868 Battle of Ueno.




050-051_EW_Tokyo.indd 50 12/09/16 11:23 am

NOR THERN T OK Y O  51
Kanei-ji
Temple
VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Map 3 C2–3, 4 D2. Ueno Zoo:
Open 9:30am–5pm Tue–Sun. &
Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum:
Open 9am–5pm. Closed 1st & 3rd
Mon. National Museum of Nature
and Science: Open 9am–5pm Tue–
Uguisudani Sun. & National Museum of West-
Station ern Art: Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–
Thu, Sat & Sun (until 8pm Fri). &
Transport
 Ueno stn, Hibiya & Ginza lines.
£ Ueno & Uguisudani stns,
many lines.


Rinno-ji
Temple
Imperial
Cemetery


National Museum of Nature and
Science
A steam engine and life-sized model
of a blue whale mark this museum’s
entrance. Exhibits cover natural
history, science, and
technology.


Baseball
ground National Museum of
Tokyo Metropolitan Western Art
Festival Hall Rodin’s massive Gate of Hell
stands outside this building
by Le Corbusier. On display
Ueno Station are various Impressionist
works, plus paintings by
Japan Art Rubens, Pollock, and others.
Academy 0 meters 100
Ueno Royal 0 yards 100
Museum Saigo Takamori Statue
The leader of the
victorious Meiji
forces, Saigo
subsequently
instigated the
Satsuma rebel lion
against the
emperor in 1877,
but killed himself
Kiyomizu Hall when it failed. He
Part of the original Kanei-ji was posthumously
temple, this dates from pardoned, and
1631 and is dedicated to this statue was
Senju (1,000-armed) erected in 1899.
Ueno Kannon. Kosodate Kannon,
Station the bosatsu of conception,
is also here, surrounded by
numerous offerings of dolls.




050-051_EW_Tokyo.indd 51 12/09/16 11:23 am

52  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

2 Tokyo National Museum
HONKAN
Tokyo National Museum HEISEIKAN
The group of buildings that makes up the Tokyo
National Museum is in a compound in the north east
corner of Ueno Park; tickets to all buildings are HYOKEIKAN
available at the entrance gate. The Honkan is the GALLERY OF
HORYU-JI
main building. To its east is the Toyokan (see p54). TREASURES
The 1909 Beaux-Arts Hyokeikan is usually closed to
the public and opens only for special exhibitions.
Behind it is the Gallery of Horyu-ji Treasures, containing KUROMON ENTRANCE TOYOKAN
stunning objects from Horyu-ji temple, near Nara, and GATE AND TICKET
OFFICE
the Heiseikan (see p55). More than 110,000 items make Museum Complex Locator Map
up the collection – the best assembly of Japanese art
in the world – and the displays change frequently.

Noh and Kabuki
One of the exquisite
kimonos that form part
of the textile and mask
collection, this dates Heiseikan
from the 16th century,
when it was used in a
Noh play (see p18). The kimono
depicts lilies and court vehicles.
First floor

The museum shop
in the basement can
be reached via twin
staircases outside
and a central
one inside.
This building dates from 1938
and combines Japanese and
Western features.


Gallery of Horyu-Ji Treasures
When the estates of the Horyu-ji temple complex
near Nara were damaged during the Meiji
reforms, the impoverished temple gave a
number of its exquisite treasures to the imperial
family in exchange for money to finance its
repairs. Over 300 of those priceless treasures,
including rare and early
Buddhist statues, masks
used for Gigaku dances,
and beautifully painted
screens, are housed in
this gallery designed
by architect Yoshio Entrance
Taniguchi.


7th-century Steps down to
Rikishi mask, used for Gigaku gilt-bronze museum shop
dances, 8th century Kannon statue





052-053_EW_Tokyo.indd 52 12/09/16 11:23 am

T OK Y O NA TIONAL MUSEUM  53


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
. Ukiyo-e and Costumes
Popular from the mid-17th through the Practical Information
19th century, these wood-block prints Map 3 C2, 4 D2. Tel (03) 3822-
depicted everything from Kabuki stars to 1111. Open 9:30am–5pm
famous landscapes, details of market life Tue–Sun. & 7
to scenes from the pleasure quarters, like ∑ tnm.jp/?lang=en
this 18th-century print of “Two Beauties.”
Transport
 Ueno stn, Hibiya
Courtly Art & Ginza lines. £ Ueno stn,
This collection many lines; Uguisudani stn,
includes scrolls, Yamanote line.
wood-block prints,
and screens. This
16th-century gold
screen is illustrated
with a procession of
noblemen, a scene
from the Tale of Genji
(see p24).
. National Treasures
The themed exhibition in
the National Treasures
room changes about
every five weeks.
Exhibits may be of
calligraphy, Buddhist
statues, tea utensils, or
even armor, like this
16th-century
Muromachi period
domaru armor.





Key to Floor Plan
Second Donations Gallery
floor Thematic Exhibition
Sculpture
Lacquerware and Ceramics
Swords and Metalwork
Folk Culture and Historic Materials
. Sculpture
This serene, wooden Modern Art
12th-century sculp ture of the Japanese and Buddhist Art
Juichimen Kannon Bosatsu (11- National Treasures
faced goddess of mercy) is about Courtly and Tea Ceremony Art
10 ft (3 m) high. Mainly Buddhist,
the pieces in the sculpture Military Attire
collection range from Interior Furnishings and Painting
miniature to monumental. Ukiyo-e Costumes, Noh, & Kabuki

Gallery Guide: Honkan
The collection is on two floors. The second floor is a counterclockwise, chronological
arrangement of Japanese art as it developed from Jomon-era (from 10,000 BC) clay figures
to 19th-century ukiyo-e wood-block prints. In between is everything from calligraphy and
tea utensils to armor as well as textiles used in Noh and Kabuki. The first floor also works
best when viewed counterclockwise. Its rooms are themed, with stunning exhibits of
sculpture, lacquerware, swords, and Western-influenced modern art.




052-053_EW_Tokyo.indd 53 12/09/16 11:23 am

54  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

Tokyo National Museum: Toyokan

The Toyokan (Asian Gallery) has an eclectic collection . Korean Art
of non-Japanese Eastern art, including textiles, sculpture, Dating from the Bronze Age (100
BC–AD 300), this dagger is one of
and ceramics. Many exhibits are from China and Korea – the older pieces on display in the
a result of their long ties with Japan. The layout of the Korean collection.
three floors is in a rough spiral; a well-marked route
takes visitors from the sculpture on the first floor up
to the Korean collection at the top. . Chinese Ceramics
Ceramics, such as this
8th-century Tang-
Chinese Sculpture dynasty camel,
One of a number of feature in the
beautiful Buddhist Chinese art
statues on the first section, along
floor, this 11-faced with bronzes,
Avalokitesvara from scrolls, jade,
Xian in China dates textiles, and
from the 11th glassware.
century.












Third floor


Second floor


Entrance










First floor



Key to Floor Plan
Chinese and Indian Sculpture
Vietnamese Ceramic Bowl
This delicately decorated Egyptian and West, Southeast, Indian Sculpture
and South Asian Art
15th- to 16th-century bowl This 2nd-century figure
is part of the collection of Chinese Art and Antiquities of a seated Bodhisattva,
Asian art on the first floor, Korean and Central Asian Art from Gandhara in Pakistan,
which also includes fabrics and Antiquities is grouped with the Indian
and statuary. Non-exhibition space sculptures on the first floor.



054-055_EW_Tokyo.indd 54 12/09/16 11:23 am

T OK Y O NA TIONAL MUSEUM  55

Tokyo National Museum: Heiseikan

Built in 1993 to commemorate the Crown Prince’s
wedding, the Heiseikan houses major temporary
exhibitions and a superb collection of Japanese
archaeological artifacts. Its modern facilities do
full justice to the fascinating displays. The Japan ese
archaeology gallery, with items from 10,000–7,000 BC
onward, is located on the first floor. The
temporary exhibitions on the second
floor are of mainly – but not only –
Japanese art. Captions are in English
and Japanese.

. Haniwa Horse
Haniwa (meaning “clay ring”) is
used to describe earthenware
sculptures that were made for 4th-
First floor
to 7th-century tombs and were
thought to protect the dead. Many
forms have been found, including
horses and other animals.
. Haniwa Male Figure
This haniwa is dressed
as a warrior. Other
human figures that have
survived include singers,
dancers, and farmers. Second floor












Entrance

Key to Floor Plan
Archaeological exhibits
Temporary exhibitions
Non-exhibition space
Honkan

Fukabachi Bowl
This large cooking pot
is a fine example of
Jomon pottery, which is . Jomon Figures
among the oldest in the The prehistoric Jomon
world. The curved, deep period (14,500–300BC)
sides allowed the fire to produced Japan’s first
be built up around it, pottery, including dogu. This
while the flattened base figurine is one of several
ensured it could be balanced female figures characterized
when in the hearth. by bulging eyes.




054-055_EW_Tokyo.indd 55 12/09/16 11:23 am

太鼓館
56  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA


3 Shitamachi 6 Drum Museum
Museum Drum Museum
Map 4 E3.  Tawaramachi stn,
Ginza line. Tel (03) 3842-5622.
2-1 Ueno-koen, Taito-ku. Map 3 C3.
Tel (03) 3823-7451.  Ueno stn, Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. &
Hibiya & Ginza lines. £ Keisei-Ueno
stn, Keisei line; Ueno stn, many lines. Over 600 drums from across
Open 9:30am–4:30pm Tue–Sun. & Japan and the world are on
display at this museum.
Dedicated to preserving the None of the text describing
spirit and traditional artifacts the instruments is in English,
of Shitamachi (see p49), this but a world map on the wall
hands-on museum is both shows the provenance of each
fascinating and fun. On the drum, including diembe drums
first floor are re-creations of Appetizing beer and food models on from Mali, cuicas from Brazil,
Edo-era shops such as a candy display, Kappabashi-dori chimes of Chinese origin, and
store and a copper smith’s. 5 Inaricho District wedding drums from Benin.
Second-floor exhibits include All the unmarked drums can
tradi tional toys, tools, and and Kappabashi- be played with the sticks and
photo graphs. All the exhibits dori mallets provided. A blue dot
were don ated by Shitamachi warns that a more delicate
handling is required; a red dot
residents. Kamishibai perfor- Inaricho District and Kappabashi-dori
mances (storytelling using Map 4 D3, 4 E2–3.  Inaricho & signifies “do not touch.” The
large, hand-painted cards) take Tawaramachi stns, Ginza line. museum’s first-floor gift shop
place on weekends. The nearby sells a good selection of local
Shitamachi Museum Annex Inaricho District is the Tokyo handicrafts, traditional souvenirs,
(north of Ueno Park) is in the head quarters for wholesale and even a few drums.
traditional style of shop-houses religious goods. Small wooden
of the mid-Edo period (late boxes to hold Buddhas and 7 Tokyo SkyTree
17th century). family photos, paper lanterns,
bouquets of brass flowers 東京スカイツリー
4 Ameyoko Market (jouka), Shinto household 1-1-2 Oshiage, Sumida. Map off 4 F3.
shrines, and even prayer beads Tel (0570) 55-0634.  £ Tokyo
Ameyoko Market SkyTree stn & Oshiage stn, Tobu line.
can be found here. Most of the
Map 3 C3.  Ueno stn, Hibiya & shops lie on the south side of Open 8am–10pm daily. &
Ginza lines; Ueno-Okachimachi stn, Asakusa-dori, between Inaricho
Oedo line. £ Okachimachi stn, and Tawaramachi stations. At 634 m (2,080 ft), this is the
Yamanote line; Ueno stn, many lines. Kappabashi-dori, named after tallest building in Japan. While
the mythical water imps (kappa) its main function is broad-
One of the great bazaars in who supposedly helped build a casting, it also hosts a large
Asia, Ameyoko is a place where bridge (bashi) here, is Tokyo’s mall, restaurants, an aquarium,
almost anything is available, at a center for kitchenware and the and a planetarium. The Tembo
太鼓館
太鼓館
discount. In Edo times, this was source of the plastic food Deck, at 350 m (1,150 ft) above
太鼓館
the place to come and buy ame displayed in most restaurant ground level, offers 360-degree
(candy). After World War II black- windows. Connois seurs hold views across Tokyo, and another
market goods, such as liquor, two Kappabashi stores, Maizuru viewing deck, Tembo Galleria, is
ciga rettes, and nylons, started and Biken, in high esteem. at 450 m (1,475 ft).
appearing here, and ame
acquired its second meaning as
an abbreviation for American
(yoko means alley). An area of
tiny shops packed under the
elevated train tracks, Ameyoko
is no longer a black market, but
it is still the place for bargains
on foreign brands. Clothes and
accessories are concen trated
under the tracks, while food
stalls, notably seafood, line the
street that follows the tracks.
Tropical fruits and exotic food
imports fill the stalls inside the
Ameyoko Center Building. A worldwide collection of traditional drums, Drum Museum


056-057_EW_Tokyo.indd 56 12/09/16 2:34 pm

NOR THERN T OK Y O  57


The Floating World of Ukiyo-e

In the Edo period, wood-block prints, called ukiyo-e, or pictures of the pleasure-seeking
“floating world,” became the most popular pictorial art of Japan. They had a profound
influence on artists such as Matisse and Van Gogh. Although today they are credited
to individual artists, they were in fact a cooperative effort between the publisher,
responsible for financing and distributing the work; the artist, who produced a fine
line drawing; the carver, who pasted the drawings onto blocks of wood and carved
away what was not to appear on the print, making one block for each color; and the
printer, who inked the wooden blocks and pressed them onto the paper – one for
each color, starting with the lightest. Editions were limited to 100–200 copies. The
first artist known by name was Moronobu, who died in 1694. The golden age of
ukiyo-e lasted from about 1790 to the 1850s. Beautiful women, Kabuki actors, scenes
from Tokyo, including Shitamachi, and the supernatural were recurring themes.

A full-color calen dar
of beautiful women
published by Suzuki
Harunobu in 1765
marked a transition
from the earlier
black-and-white
techniques. The
calendar was a
great success
and attracted both Depictions of women were eroticized by
financiers and artists artists such as Kitagawa Utamaro and Torii
to the medium. Kiyonaga, after Harunobu’s calendar. This
print is by Utamaro.

Landscape prints
were dominated
by Hokusai (1760–
1849) and his
younger rival
Hiroshige (1797–
1858). This print is
from the latter’s
Fifty-Three Stations
of the Tokaido.





This 1825 print by
Hokusai shows the
carving and printing
stages of wood-block
print making. Printers Ghosts and goblins were
relied on vegetable a favorite theme, especially
dyes, some of which in summer (to be scared
were very expensive. was thought to be cooling).
The red dye beni, Utagawa Kuniyoshi (whose
derived from safflowers, print is shown here), Taiso
could be worth more Yoshitoshi, and Kobayashi
than its weight in gold. Kiyochika were masters of
Some prints required the genre, which marked the
up to a dozen colors. end of ukiyo-e’s golden age.






056-057_EW_Tokyo.indd 57 12/09/16 11:42 am

58  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

8 Senso-ji Temple
Sensoji Temple
Popularly known as Asakusa Kannon, this is Tokyo’s most sacred and
spectacular temple. In AD 628, two fishermen dragged a small gold
statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy, from the Sumida
River. Their master built a shrine to Kannon, then in 645, the holy man
Shokai built a temple to her. Its fame, wealth, and size grew until
Tokugawa Ieyasu bestowed upon it a large stipend of land. The
Yoshiwara pleasure quarter moved nearby in 1657 only increas ing
its popularity. The temple survived the 1923 earth quake but not
World War II bombing. Its main buildings are therefore relative ly
new, but follow the Edo-era layout. Though the buildings are
impressive, it is the people following their daily rituals that
make this place so special.

Five-Story Pagoda
This replica of the original
was con structed in 1973.









. Nakamise-dori
This alley is a treasure trove of
KEY traditional wares, including
specialists in obi sashes, hair combs,
1 For more details about fans, dolls, and kimonos.
individual shops here, see pages
138–41
2 The garden of Dembo-in
(abbot’s residence) is a tranquil
stroll garden used as a training
center for monks. It is a masterly
arrangement of trees, bamboo
groves, lawns, and water.
3 Awashima-do Hall is dedicated
to a deity who looks after women.
4 This hexagonal temple is a
rare survivor from the 15th or
16th century.
5 Yogodo Hall houses eight
Buddha statues.
6 Asakusa Jinja, built in 1649, is a
shrine dedicated to the fishermen Kaminarimon Gate
who found the Kannon statue. “Thunder Gate” burned down
in 1865 and was not rebuilt
7 Niten-mon Gate was built in until 1960. The guardian
1618 as the entrance to the original statues of Fujin (right) and
Tosho-gu shrine. Raijin (left) have old heads
8 Statues donated by a wealthy and new bodies.
Edo merchant
9 Benten-yama Shoro belfry
stands amid a group of temple
buildings. The bell used to ring To Asakusa Station and
on the hour in Edo. tourist information
office




058-059_EW_Tokyo.indd 58 12/09/16 11:23 am

NOR THERN T OK Y O  59


. Main Hall
Inside the hall (1958) the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
gold-plated main shrine
houses the orig inal Kannon Practical Information
Map 4 F2. n by station (03) 3842-
image. Worshipers come 5566. Main Hall: Open 6am–5pm
to pay their respects by daily (Oct–Mar: from 6:30am). Main
throwing coins and Grounds: Open 24 hours daily.
lighting candles.
Nakamise-dori: Open 9:30am–7pm
daily. _ Sanja Mat suri (3rd Fri–
Sun in May), Hagoita-Ichi (Racket
Fair, Dec 17–19).
Transport
 Asakusa stn, Ginza & Toei-
Asakusa lines. £ Tobu-Asakusa
stn, Tobu-Isesaki line.









. Main Hall
Several large paintings hang
inside the main hall. The painting
of angels with lotus flowers is
a 20th-century work by
Insho Domoto.
Incense Burner
One of the temple’s
focal points, this
incense burner
(jokoro) is constantly
surrounded by people
wafting the smoke
over them to keep
them healthy.














Nade Botokesan
Buddha
This delicate statue
has been polished
smooth by the
hands of those Hozo-mon Gate
hoping for good Built in 1964 of reinforced concrete, this two-story
luck and help gate has a treasure house upstairs holding a
with ailments. number of 14th-century Chinese sutras.




058-059_EW_Tokyo.indd 59 12/09/16 11:23 am

Seibu-
shinjuku
Nishi-
shinjuku Shinjuku- KABUKICHO
nishiguchi
KITA-DORI Shinjuku Shinjuku-sanchome
CHUO-DORI
KOEN-DORI
Tochomae TOCHO-DORI DORI HIGASHI- SHINJ UKU-DORI
MINAMI- KOSHU- KAIDO MEIJI-DO RI SHINJUKU- SHINJUKU- Yotsuya
DORI
GYOEN
YOYOGI
Minami- Yoyogi GARDEN KU WAKABA S H I N J UKU-DORI
shinjuku
Sendagaya SHINANOMACHI KIOICHO
EXPRESS W AY NO.4 SOT OBOR I- D ORI
Sangubashi SENDAGAYA Kokuritsu- Shinanomachi Akasaka- EXPRESSWAY NO.4
G A I E N - N I S H I - D O R I Aoyama- mitsuke MISUJI-DORI
kyogijo
SHIBUY A-KU KITI- itchome YAGE N-ZAKA
M E I J I - D O R I
YOYOGI AOYAMA Akasaka
PARK Harajuku AO YAM A- DO RI
JINGUMAE Tameike-
Gaienmae AKAS AKA-DOR I sanno
Meiji-jingumae
M E I J I - D O R I OMOTE-SANDO MINAMI- CEMETERY GAIEN-HIGASH I- DORI
AOYAMA
MINA TO-
JINNAN AOYAMA KU
KITI- GAIEN-NISHI -DORI Nogizaka Roppongi-
INOKASHIRA-DORI
AOYAMA Omotesando itchome
UDAGAWACHO Roppongi
SHOTO KOTTO-DORI EXPRESSWAY NO. 3
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
D O GEN -ZAK A E X P R E S S W AY N O . 3 Azabu-
Shinsen Shibuya juban
060-061_EW_Tokyo.indd 60 12/09/16 11:27 am

T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA  61
WESTERN TOKYO


Shinjuku and Shibuya, the dual centers Shibuya, along with neighboring
of Western Tokyo, three stops apart on the Harajuku and Minami-Aoyama, is the
Yamanote Line, started to boom only after epicenter of both young and haute-
the 1923 earthquake. This part of the city couture Japanese fashion. Nightlife is
is modern Tokyo – all vitality and energy, also in diverse and plentiful supply with
fast-paced, constantly changing, and Rop pongi’s cosmopolitan clubs, bars, and
challenging the more traditional pleasures music venues, and the neon lights and
of Central and Northern Tokyo. Modern pachinko par lors of East Shinjuku. In these
architectural landmarks are dotted around, overwhelmingly modern surroundings,
from the Olympic Stadiums of Yoyogi Park historical sights are few and far between
to the magnificent twin-towered home but include the popular Meiji Shrine and
for the city government in West Shinjuku. the nearby Sword Museum.


Sights at a Glance
Notable Districts Museums
1 East Shinjuku pp62–3 4 Bunka Gakuen Costume
2 West Shinjuku pp64–5 Museum
8 Harajuku District 5 Sword Museum
9 Shibuya pp68–9 Stations
0 Minami-Aoyama District
q Roppongi District 3 Shinjuku Station
w Akasaka District Parks
Shrines 7 Yoyogi Park
6 Meiji Shrine


Seibu-
shinjuku
Nishi- See also Street Finder
shinjuku Shinjuku- KABUKICHO
nishiguchi maps 1 & 2
KITA-DORI Shinjuku Shinjuku-sanchome
CHUO-DORI
KOEN-DORI
Tochomae TOCHO-DORI DORI HIGASHI- SHINJ UKU-DORI
MINAMI- KOSHU- KAIDO MEIJI-DO RI SHINJUKU- SHINJUKU- Yotsuya
DORI
GYOEN
YOYOGI
Minami- Yoyogi GARDEN KU WAKABA S H I N J UKU-DORI
shinjuku
Sendagaya SHINANOMACHI KIOICHO
EXPRESS W AY NO.4 SOT OBOR I- D ORI
Sangubashi SENDAGAYA Kokuritsu- Shinanomachi EXPRESSWAY NO.4
kyogijo Akasaka-
G A I E N - N I S H I - D O R I Aoyama- mitsuke MISUJI-DORI
SHIBUY A-KU KITI- itchome YAGE N-ZAKA
M E I J I - D O R I
YOYOGI AOYAMA Akasaka
PARK Harajuku AO YAM A- DO RI
JINGUMAE Tameike-
Gaienmae AKAS AKA-DOR I sanno
Meiji-jingumae
M E I J I - D O R I OMOTE-SANDO MINAMI- CEMETERY GAIEN-HIGASH I- DORI
AOYAMA
MINA TO-
JINNAN AOYAMA KU
KITI- GAIEN-NISHI -DORI Nogizaka Roppongi-
INOKASHIRA-DORI
AOYAMA Omotesando itchome
UDAGAWACHO Roppongi
SHOTO KOTTO-DORI EXPRESSWAY NO. 3 0 meters 800
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
D O GEN -ZAK A E X P R E S S W AY N O . 3 Azabu- 0 yards 800
Shinsen Shibuya juban
The complex housing the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Offices, West Shinjuku For keys to symbols see back flap
060-061_EW_Tokyo.indd 61 12/09/16 11:27 am

62  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

1 Street-by-Street: East Shinjuku

East Shinjuku
East Shinjuku is where Tokyo plays. The area has been a
nightlife center from Edo times on, when it was the first
night stop on the old Tokaido road to Kyoto. Since Shinjuku
Station opened in the 19th century, entertainments have Seibu-
been targeted at commuters (mainly men) en route back Shinjuku
to the suburbs. Amusements are focused in the tiny bars Station
of Golden Gai and in the red-light district of Kabukicho.
Daytime attractions include several art galleries, a tranquil
shrine, and some department stores. A late-afternoon stroll
as the neon starts to light up on both sides of this fascinating,
bustling area would be rewarding.




I
R
O
I
R D
O –
D A
– M
A U
R
U A Z
K
A
S
Toho Cinema Complex
This block of Kabukicho is dominated
by the large Toho Cinema complex. Y A S U K U N I – D O R I
There is also a hotel, a pachinko parlor, West Shinjuku
restaurants, and convenience stores. (see pp64–5)
Kabukicho
Pachinko parlors and love
hotels flourish in Japan’s
largest night entertainment
district, alongside pubs,
restaurants, karaoke boxes,
and coffee shops. In this area
of contrasts, prices range
from ¥500 for a bowl of noo­
dles to ¥10,000 for a drink. S H I N J U K U – D O R I






Shinjuku
Station
(see p65) Yoyogi
Studio Alta Kinokuniya
Instantly recognizable by its bookstore has one of
huge TV screen, Studio Alta Tokyo’s best selections
stands opposite the crossing Key of foreign books.
from Shinjuku Station and is
a favorite place for meeting Suggested walk route
up or just hanging out. Train line




062-063_EW_Tokyo.indd 62 21/10/2016 14:13

WESTERN T OK Y O  63

Golden Gai NORTHERN
Viewed in the day time TOKYO
these scruffy alleys look
anything but golden.
Most of the bars here
are just wide enough CENTRAL
TOKYO
for a bar, a counter, and WESTERN
TOKYO
a row of stools. Each has
a set of regulars – from
writers to bikers – and
quite a few welcome Locator Map
strangers inside. See Tokyo Street Finder Map 1








I
R
O
I
R D I
O – R
D A O
– M D H I
A U – C
R O
U A Z H M I
K S –
A U O
S K N Hanazono Shrine
Y A – Founded in the mid-17th century, this
U K I
K I Shinto shrine is a calm and surprising oasis
S H among the concrete towers. In the tree-
filled compound are a reconstructed
Y A S U K U N I – D O R I
traditional vermilion-and-white building
and several Inari fox statues.
I
R
O
D
Y A S U K U N I – D O R I
–
I
J
I
E Imperial 0 meters
M Palace 100
0 yards 100
S H I N J U K U – D O R I




Isetan Department Store
Top Japanese and Western designer boutiques make this
Flags café is a stylish store a favorite with Tokyo’s affluent young. The food
convenient coffee stop hall in the basement is also worth a visit. On the 8th floor of
opposite Mitsukoshi the Shinkan annex building, the Isetan Art Museum has
department store. interesting special exhibitions.




062-063_EW_Tokyo.indd 63 21/10/2016 14:13

64  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

2 West Shinjuku

West Shinjuku
Most of Tokyo’s skyscraper office blocks (and some of its
most expensive land) are clustered just to the west of
Shinjuku Station. About 250,000 people work here each
day. Many of the hotels and some office blocks have top- West Shinjuku seen from Tokyo Metropolitan
floor restaurants with views of the city. In 1960, the Government Offices
government desig nated Shinjuku a fukutoshin (“secondary Island
heart of the city”); in 1991, when the city government Tower
moved into architect Kenzo Tange’s massive Mitsui
48-story Metropolitan Government Offices, Building
many started calling it shin toshin
(the new capital). Tange’s building
was dubbed “tax tower” by some,
outraged at its US$1 billion cost.
Hilton
Tokyo


K I T A – D O R I H I G A


S
H
I



G
I – D
J
I O R
D
I
O
C H U O – D O R I – D
Sumitomo Building Dai-Ichi O
Inside this block are a Seimei R I
shopping center and, at the Building K
top, a free observatory. O
Century Hyatt Hotel E N T
– D O C
H
O
O
R
F U R E A I – D O R I
I – D
O
R
I
Shinjuku
Central Park
The Washington
Tokyo Metropolitan Government Hotel has flowing
Buildings curves (inside
This huge complex of two blocks land out) and tiny
and a semi-circular plaza is unified windows in its
by the grid-detailing on its facades, white facade. M I N A M I –
recalling both traditional architec- D O R I Keio
ture and electronic circuitry. An Plaza
observatory gives views from Mount The NS Building is recognizable by its rainbow- Hotel
Fuji to Tokyo Bay on a clear day. hued elevator shafts. In the 30-story atrium is
a 29-m (95-ft) high water-powered clock.

064-065_EW_Tokyo.indd 64 12/09/16 11:27 am

WESTERN T OK Y O  65

3 Shinjuku Station
NORTHERN TOKYO worn for Noh dramas, and bags.
The museum also exhibits the
Shinjuku Station
creations of Japanese haute
Map 1 B1–2. couture designers.
WESTERN CENTRAL
TOKYO TOKYO With over two million people
passing through each day, this
is the busiest train station in
the world. As well as being a
Locator Map major stop on both the JR and
See Tokyo Street metropolitan subway systems,
Finder Map 1 Shinjuku Station is the starting
point for trains and buses into
the suburbs. On the Yamanote
Nomura and Chuo line platforms during
Building the morning rush hour (from
about 7:30 to 9am), staff are
employed to gently but firmly
push those last few commut ers
onto the train, making sure the Late 19th-century Western wear,
The Yasuda odd body part is not slammed Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum
Kasai Kaijo in the closing doors.
Building, with The corridors connecting all
its graceful 5 Sword Museum
curving base, is the lines and train networks are
H
one of the area’s edged with hun dreds of shops Sword Museum
I
most distinctive and restau rants. It is easy to lose 4-25-10 Yoyogi. Map 1 A3.
G
buildings. your way in this maze of
A
seemingly identical passages, and Tel (03) 3379-1386. £ Sangubashi
S
it may often be simpler to find stn, Oda kyu line. Open 10am–4:30pm
H
Shinjuku Center Tue–Sun. &
I
your bearings at ground level.
Building

Look for the nearest escalator
or staircase up, and then get A little out of the way, this
–
D
oriented once on the street. museum is full of fine Japan ese
O
Shinjuku Station swords dating back to the
R
文化学園服飾博物館
and East Shinjuku
I 4 Bunka Gakuen 12th century. On the first floor
Costume Museum is an interesting display of
the process by which a
文化学園服飾博物館 sword is produced.
Map 1 A2. Tel (03) 3299-2387. The swords them selves are
 Shinjuku stn, JR, Odakyu, Keio exhibited on the second floor,
Shinjuku, Oedo lines. Open 10am– every detail care fully refined,
even down to the pattern of
4:30pm Mon–Sat. & Bunka Gakuen
burnishing on the blade’s
Costume Museum
Opened in 1979, the museum face. There is also a display
has been building up its of decorated hilts. English
collec tion of costumes expla nations trace the history
and accessories to over, of the sword, and the process es
20,000 exhibits that it of sharp ening, handling, and
holds today. maintenance. Beautifully
Clothing and dyed articles illustrated old Japanese texts
from such countries and explain the finer points of
Monolith regions as Africa, the Middle sword-making. Among the
Building East, China, and India are ancient samurai swords
An imposing exhibited throughout are examples of works
building, as its the year. Western attire by modern master
name suggests, is represented by a swordsmiths, who have
this block has a
pleasant courtyard selection of dresses kept alive the tradition
KDD garden on the typifying fashions of the Ornate sword of refining steel from
pure iron sand,
18th to 20th centuries.
Building north side. handle
Among the permanent painstakingly
items of interest in the Japanese manipulating the carbon
collection are modern court content, then hammering,
0 meters 100
dresses, kosode (short-sleeved and cross-welding the steel
0 yards 100 kimonos), the lavish costumes for maximum strength.
064-065_EW_Tokyo.indd 65 21/10/2016 14:13

66  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA


either return to the Otorii and
turn left, following the signs,
or walk through the woods
to the left of the shrine. Lining
the walls of the single high-
vaulted room of the Treasure
Museum are portraits of every
emperor going back more
than 1,000 years. Objects on
display include the gorgeous
kimonos worn by Emperor
Meiji and Empress Shoken
for court functions.
Minami Shinmon gateway through a wooden torii, Meiji Shrine 7 Yoyogi Park
6 Meiji Shrine Mount Tandai in Taiwan. A short Yoyogi Park
distance beyond the gate, on
Meiji Shrine Map 1 A4, 1 B4. £ Harajuku stn,
the left, is the entrance to the Yamanote line.
Map 1 B3. Tel (03) 3379-5511. Meiji-jingu Gyoen Garden, a
£ Harajuku stn, Yamanote line. favorite of the Meiji imperial Kenzo Tange’s two Olympic
Treasure Museum Annex: Open
9am– 4pm daily. Treasure Museum: couple. It is said that Emperor Pavilions (see p17), the landmark
Open 9am–4pm Sat, Sun, and public Meiji designed it him self for his structures in Yoyogi Park, were
hols. & Meiji-Jingu Gyoen Garden: empress. Inside there is a tea- completed in 1964 for the Tokyo
Open daily (times vary). & _ Spring house over looking a pond Olympics and will be used as
Festival (May 2–3), Fall Festival (Nov stocked with water lilies and carp. an Olympic venue once again
1–3). ∑ meijijingu.or.jp To the right of the pond, a path during the 2020 Tokyo games,
leads to the beautiful Minami- specifically for handball. The
The most important Shinto shrine ike Shobuda (iris garden), impressive curves of the shell-
in Tokyo, Meiji Jingu (Imperial contain ing over 150 species. like structures are achieved by
shrine) dates from 1920. Emperor Past the entrance to the garden, using steel suspension cables.
Meiji (who reigned 1852–1912) the road turns to the right and For almost three decades the
and his wife, Empress Shoken, enters the main shrine area, set in park filled with a fantastic array
are enshrined here. A focal point the middle of a grove of cedars. of performers and bands every
for right-wing militarists during Another large wooden torii Sunday. These events were
Japan’s colonial expansion prior leads to the Minami Shinmon stopped by the authorities in
to World War II, the shrine was (outer gate) through which is a the mid-1990s, supposedly due
destroyed by Allied aerial spacious outer courtyard. The to worries about the rise in
bombardment in 1945 but shrines in the closed-off inner criminal activities. The weekly
rebuilt with private donations courtyard are visible from here. flea market on Sundays is worth
in 1958. During the New Year Gracefully curving, their roofs a visit. At the entrance to the
holidays it is the most heavily are classic examples of Shinto park you can see memb ers of
visited place in Japan, with over style architecture. Through a the zoku (groups) who used to
three million people worshiping gateway to the right is the perform here, from punks to
here and buying good-luck Kaguraden, a modern hall built hippies and break-dancers.
charms for the year ahead. for sacred music and dance. South of the park, on
A wide graveled road under To reach the Treasure Museum, Inokashira-dori, NHK Studio
a huge torii (gate) and shaded Park, run by Japan’s leading
by cedars leads into the shrine broadcaster, offers free tours
grounds. On the right is an of its TV studios.
abandoned entrance to the JR
Harajuku Station. Just beyond
is a small entrance used by the
emperor when he visits by train.
Next on the right is the
Treasure Museum Annex. The
annex holds changing exhibi-
tions of the royal couple’s artifacts,
including clothes, lacquer ware,
and furniture. A left turn takes
you under the massive Otorii
(big gate), built in 1975 of huge
logs that came from a 1,500-
year-old Japanese cypress on The main Olympic Stadium in Yoyogi Park




066-067_EW_Tokyo.indd 66 12/09/16 11:23 am

WESTERN T OK Y O  67

8 Harajuku District
Harajuku District
Map 1 B4, 1 C4.  Meiji-jingumae
stn, Chiyoda line. £ Harajuku stn,
Yamanote line. Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial
Museum of Art: Tel (03) 3403-0880.
Open 10:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun.
Closed Mon and 27th–end of each
month. &
Harajuku Station was the main
station for the 1964 Tokyo
Olympic village; that concen-
tration of international culture
left a great impact on the area,
attracting the young and inno-
vative of Tokyo. Today Harajuku
remains a fashion center
from high-end inter national
stores to bargain boutiques. The
neighboring chic and expensive
Omote sando and Minami- Visitors browsing at Design Festa Gallery in Harajuku
Aoyama areas (see p70) cater
to the more urbane shopper. mall complex, design ed by the land mark Oak Omotesando
Takeshita-dori, a narrow alley renowned architect Tadao Ando. Building. This recent addition to
between Meiji-dori and Harajuku The central atrium is encircled by the area has an impressive glass
Station, is the place to find what a spira ling walkway, which repli- facade which is reminiscent of
is hot in teen fashion and cates the angle and incline of the the iconic Hanae Mori Building,
culture. Prices range from outside pave ment, creating which formerly sat on the site.
cheap to outrageous, as do an effective interior-exterior Just before it is the Oriental
the fashions. Starting from flow of line and form. Many Bazaar, a large multi-story shop
the Harajuku Station top-brand stores such as full of real and fake antiques
end, about 660 ft (200 m) Yves Saint Laurent are and handicrafts (see p139). After
down, a left turn repre sented here. checking out the attractions along
leads up some stairs The com plex’s Omotesando, it is a good idea to
to Togo Shrine, trendy restaurants walk along the narrow lane that
founded for Admiral and cafés pro vide leads off the main street, just
Togo, the commander respite from the intensive before the pedestrian bridge. The
who defeated the shopping experience. lane is lined with a growing num-
Russian fleet in the Battle As you walk from ber of small stores and boutiques,
of Tsushima, which took Harajuku Station, just including those of up-and-
place during the Street performer before the inter section coming designers, and extends
Russo-Japanese War. It in Harajuku with Meiji-dori, a small almost all the way to Shibuya.
was a huge naval victory, the street off to the left leads
first of an Asian country over a to the Ukiyo-e Ota
Western one. Admiral Togo Memorial Museum of Art,
remains a hero in Japan, and his which houses one of the
shrine has a beautiful garden best collections of ukiyo-e
and pond. Located a few blocks prints (see p57) in Japan. A
east of the shrine across Meiji- vivid image of a Kabuki
dori is Design Festa Gallery. This leading actor by Sharaku
bohemian space focuses on and a masterful program
future generation artists and has of a memorial Kabuki
a design-themed café and bar. perform ance by Hiroshige
Running parallel to, and south are among many familiar
of, Take shita-dori is the more works. There is a small res-
sophisticated Omotesando. With taurant and a shop selling
its wide, tree-shaded sidewalks prints and other ukiyo-e
and dozens of boutiques show- related souvenirs. Just to
casing top fashion designers and the left down Meiji-dori is
brands such as Celine, Fendi, and LaForet, a fashion mecca,
Dior, this is one of the best strolls with more than 150
in Tokyo. More fashion can be boutiques. Past the pedes-
found in the Omotesando Hills trian bridge to the right is Unique fashion of lolitas in Harajuku district




066-067_EW_Tokyo.indd 67 12/09/16 11:23 am

68  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

9 Street-by-Street: Shibuya
Shibuya
Shibuya is the sakariba (party town) for Tokyo’s youth. It has been so since the 1930s, when
facades featured rockets streak ing across the sky. Today this is the place to see the latest in
fashion, food, music, and gadgets. Shibuya really started to grow after the 1964 Tokyo
Olympics, and its continuing expansion has been spurred by the affluent youth of the
world’s third-biggest economy. The area, which lies to the northwest of Shibuya station and
south of Yoyogi Park, is a mix of trendy boutiques, fashion able department stores, and
record shops, plus a couple of interesting museums, and the Bunkamura cultural center.
Adjoining this area is Dogen-zaka, a jumble of sloping streets and alleyways lined with
nightclubs, bars, and love hotels (see p109).

Center Gai Tokyu Hands is a huge
The focus for youth store full of housewares
entertainment in Tokyo, and handicrafts.
Center Gai is lined with
shops, pachinko parlors,
restaurants, and karaoke
bars full of high-school and
college-age kids.



















Bunkamura C E N T E R G A I
A popular site for rock and classical B U N K A M U R A – D O R I
concerts, this cultural center has movie
theaters, an art gallery, and a theater.




D O G E N – Z A K A








Dogen-zaka
Named after a bandit who Key
retired here as a monk, this
nighttime destination includes Suggested walk route
old houses, now art galleries. Train line




068-069_EW_Tokyo.indd 68 12/09/16 11:24 am

WESTERN T OK Y O  69


Tower Records NORTHERN TOKYO
A popular haunt for music
lovers, Tower Records has
a good stock of Japanese
and international music WESTERN CENTRAL
CDs at reasonable prices. TOKYO TOKYO

Yoyogi Park and
Olympic stadiums Locator Map
See Tokyo Street Finder Map 1
Harajuku

K
O
The Humax Pavilion
E
Building is one of the more
N
–
fanciful buildings in the area,
D
resembling a cartoon rocket.
O
It houses the Disney Store.
R
I
Marui Jam department store is
a paradise for clothes – the place
for fashionable under 25s.






K O E N – D O R I




Statue of Hachiko
A favorite meeting place, this 1934 statue depicts the
C E N T E R G A I
dog who waited for his master at the station every night
for more than a decade after his death. Another popular
B U N K A M U R A – D O R I
meeting point nearby is the Statue of Moyai.
Pachinko
One of Tokyo’s most popular forms of
recrea tion, pachinko is similar to pinball,
but without the flippers and requiring
little skill. Players buy some steel balls to
feed into the pachinko machine, win ning
Shibuya more steel balls; these are traded in for
Station a prize (gambling for money is illegal).
The prize in turn can be ex changed for
money, usually in a small shop nearby.
Shibuya and Shinjuku have hundreds of
Key pachinko parlors.
Suggested walk route 0 meters 100 A typical pachinko machine
Train line 0 yards 100
For keys to symbols see back flap


068-069_EW_Tokyo.indd 69 12/09/16 11:24 am

70  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA


(see p16). Designed by Japanese), and that includes
the dynamic Swiss most of the people seen here.
firm Herzog and de Attractions inside comprise
Meuron, the striking a first-floor exhibition and
building is a six-story performance space, the
chrysalis of diamond- Spiral Hall (on the third floor),
shaped transparent also used for exhibitions
glass blocks that and per formances, an Italian
appears to move as café, a French restaurant, a
the building is circled. stationery and housewares
Continue in the same boutique, and a beauty salon.
direction to the end of Head eastwards towards
the road, and cross the Nogizaka subway station
the street for the Nezu for the Aoyama Cemetery,
Museum, which Japan’s first public necropolis,
houses Japanese, and probably its most exclusive.
Chinese, and Korean A number of high-profile
art and is situated in Japanese are buried here,
land scaped gardens including former prime
containing traditional minister Shigeru Yoshida
teahouses. A short and famed novelist Yukio
walk from here is Mishima. This tranquil, spot
Kotto-dori, another is also a popular place to view
fashionable street, cherry blossoms.
The Spiral Building, Minami-Aoyama which is full of antique
shops selling scrolls,
0 Minami-Aoyama paintings, and porce lain, among q Roppongi District
District many other items. Roppongi District
This street is one of the
Minami-Aoyama District Map 2 E5.  Roppongi stn, Hibiya
hottest in Tokyo, with some
Map 1 C4–5, 2 D4–5.  Gaienmae notable boutiques, cafés, and & Toei-Oedo lines. Roppongi Hills:
stn, Ginza line. Watari Museum shops springing up. Return ing Tel (03) 6406-6100. Mori Art Museum:
of Contemporary Art: Tel (03) 3402- to Aoyama-dori, near the Tel (03) 5777-8600. National Art
3001. Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun Omotesando junction toward Center: Tel (03) 5777-8600. Suntory
(to 9pm Wed). & Nezu Museum: Shibuya, the next landmark is Museum of Art: Tel (03) 3479-8600.
Tel (03) 3400-2536. Open 10am–5pm Open 10am– 6pm Wed–Mon (to
Tue–Sun. Closed New Year holidays. the white, geo metric Spiral 8pm Fri & Sat).
& Aoyama Cemetery: Tel (03) 3401- Building, which owes its name
3652. Open 24 hours daily (Office: to the large, spiral ramp inside. Roppongi is famed for its
8:30am–5:15pm). Designed by Fumihiko Maki in hedonistic club scene and
1985, this building is one of the is particularly popular with
Favored by artists, writers, and most popular places in Minami- expats. You can find just about
young entrepreneurs, this Aoyama. There is nothing in it any music you want here –
district lies between the large that cannot be described as jazz, blues, ska, hip-hop, classic
Aoyama Cemetery and Shibuya. hip and trendy (torendi in disco, and country and western.
Aoyama-dori, the wide street
at its heart, is a center for
boutiques and up scale life.
Omotesando crosses it just
about in the middle.
On Gaien-Nishi-dori, a
fashionable street nicknamed
“Killer-dori,” is the Watari-um
(Watari Museum of
Contemporary Art). Exhibits are
by inter national and Japanese
artists, and change regularly.
The bookstore stocks an
excellent range of art books.
Back on Omotesando-dori,
follow the road southeast away
from Omotesando sub way
station where, on the right,
the stunning Prada Aoyama
fashion store looms into view Nighttime scene in the district of Roppongi




070-071_EW_Tokyo.indd 70 12/09/16 11:27 am

WESTERN T OK Y O  71


the main rendezvous spot to social ize. Limousines carry
in Roppongi. The area to the dark-blue-suited men to the
south is where the action is. many exclusive establishments
Clubs come in all shapes and lining the streets here.
sizes, some just wide enough About 656 ft (200 m) along
for a counter and stools. Check Aoyama-dori from Akasaka
the prices of drinks as they Mitsuke Station is the Toyo-
vary hugely. Just a couple of kawa Inari Shrine (also called
blocks north of Roppongi Myogon-ji). With its red lanterns
crossing lies the long-running and flags, and dozens of statues
institution Satin Doll. This of foxes (the messengers of
classy restaurant offers Inari, a Shinto rice deity), this
world-class jazz acts and is a pleasant place to linger
sophisticated French cuisine. for a while.
To the north of Almond lies Going back past Akasaka
the complex known as Tokyo Mitsuke Station and over the
Midtown, which houses the moat leads to a large building
Suntory Museum of Art. The that some may recognize from
Entrance to the contemporary Mori Art museum has an unrivaled the James Bond film You Only
Museum, Roppongi collection of Edo-era screens, Live Twice. This is the luxurious
depicting scenes from the Edo Hotel New Otani. On the 17th
This is also the place for big- court; one particularly fine floor is the revolving THE
name inter national restaurant example is Namban Sky restaurant, serving
chains such as the Hard Rock (Westerners in Chinese food and
Café, Spago, and Tony Roma’s. Japan). Traditional offering stunning
Unveiled in 2003, Roppongi decorative arts are views across central
Hills aspires to be an all- also well represented Tokyo and the
purpose mini-city. The 54-story here, with ceramics, Imperial Palace. In
Mori Tower forms the focus of lacquer ware, textiles, Ironware kettle in the the vast grounds
the hills. Over 200 shops, and tea utensils. There Suntory Museum of Art and open to all is
restaurants, and bars occupy is also a tea ceremony a 17th-century
the complex, which also boasts room, café, and a museum shop. Japanese garden.
cinemas, interconnecting South of Akasaka-Mitsuke
walkways, the Grand Hyatt w Akasaka District Station is the Hie Jinja, a
Tokyo (see p112), and the richly shrine that was erected
imag inative and daring exhibits Akasaka District
in 1478. Shogun Ietsuna
of the Mori Art Museum. Map 2 E3–4, 2 F3–4.  Akasaka- moved it here in the 17th
Ad mis sion to the museum Mitsuke stn, Ginza & Marunouchi lines; century to buffer his castle;
includes access to the Tokyo Nagatacho stn, Yurakucho, Namboku the present-day buildings
City View, a 52nd-floor & Hanzomon lines. _ Sanno Matsuri are all modern. Each year in
observation deck (open later (Jun 16, Hie Jinja). mid-June the Sanno Matsuri
than the museum). Maman, the is celebrated here with a
giant, spiny, spider sculpture by With the Diet Building (see p45) grand procession of 50
Louise Bourgeois outside the and many government offices Mikoshi (portable shrines)
main tower, is a major draw. just to the east, Akasaka is a and people in Heian-era
The National Art Center is favorite place for politicians costumes (see pp30–32).
part of an effort to reinvent
Roppongi as some thing more
than just a night life zone. The
work of re nowned architect
Kisho Kurokawa, the rippling
facade of the building is based
on computer- generated
rhythmic images inspired by
waves and hills. The largest
exhibition space in Japan, the
art center does not have a
permanent collection of its
own, but re gularly features
prominent Japanese as well as
overseas exhibitions. Almond
(Amando in Japanese), at the
inter section of Roppongi-dori
and Gaien-Higashi-dori, is A chinowa circle, erected for good luck, at Hie Jinja in Akasaka




070-071_EW_Tokyo.indd 71 12/09/16 11:27 am

072-073_EW_Tokyo.indd 72 12/09/16 11:24 am

T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA  73

FARTHER AFIELD

Due to Tokyo’s expansion in every conceivable shrine in downtown Fukagawa dates from the
dir ection, the area around the Imperial Palace 17th century. To the northwest, Rikugi-en,
is just one among several widely dispersed near Ikebukuro, is one of the Edo period’s
sights of interest around the city. Seeking last great stroll gardens. The atmospheric
them out, though, poses few problems in a Sengaku-ji temple, in the south, reconstructs
city with a superb transport system. The Japan the final scenes in the story of the 47 ronin,
Folk Crafts Museum and the Goto Art Museum a real-life tale of samurai loyalty and revenge.
are small gems in pleasant surroundings that In contrast, Ikebukuro and Ebisu are modern
give an idea of Tokyo life as well as its rich urban centers. Daikanyama, the chic fashion
heritage. Ryogoku, home to sumo wrestling, district, and the futuristic man-made island of
also features the fascinating Edo-Tokyo Odaiba, with its innovative architecture, offer
Museum. The impressive Tomioka Hachiman-gu a contemporary experience.




Sights at a Glance
Notable Districts Temples and Shrines Key
1 Ikebukuro District 5 Gokoku-ji Temple Main sightseeing area
2 Sugamo q Sengaku-ji Temple Expressway
3 Komagome Museums and Galleries
6 Zoshigaya r Japan Folk Crafts Museum Main road
7 Ryogoku District y Goto Art Museum
8 Downtown Fukagawa
0 Odaiba Scenic Transport Routes
w Ebisu District 4 Arakawa Tram Line
e Daikanyama District Markets
t Shimokitazawa
9 Toyosu Fish Market 0 km 1.5
0 miles 1.5

TOSHIMA- Ikebukuro Sugamo
KU
Shimoigusa
TAITO-KU
BUNKYO-KU Ueno
Nakano
Asakusa
SUMIDA-KU
NAKANO-KU SHINJUKU-KU
Ryogoku
Shinjuku
Kanda
Yoyogi Kiyosumi
Minamidai CHIYODA-KU
KOTO-KU
Akasaka Ginza
CHUO EXPR ESSWAY SHIBUYA-KU CHUO-KU Toyo
Shibuya Roppongi
Akatsutsumi Shimbashi
MINATO-KU Harumi
Ebisu
SETAGAYA-KU
TOMEI EXPRESSWAY MEGURO-KU
Nakamachi Odaiba
Himonya
Kaminoge Tairamachi

The suspended titanium dome at the Fuji TV Building, Odaiba



072-073_EW_Tokyo.indd 73 12/09/16 11:24 am

74  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA


roadside statues cast between
1708 and 1720. Sugamo’s best-
known temple, Kogan-ji, is
dedicated to the thorn-removing
deity Togenuki Jizo, believed to
have curative powers. Street
markets outside the temple
selling traditional souvenirs and
Chinese cures add char acter to
this old quarter.

3 Komagome

 Komagome stn, Namboku line.
The striking exterior of the Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre, Ikebukuro £ Komagome stn, Yamanote line.
Rikugi-en Garden: Tel (03) 3941-2222.
1 Ikebukuro City’s high-culture component Open 9am–5pm daily (to 9pm
District featuring pre-Islamic art from during cherry blossom season). &
the Middle East and Silk Road. Kyu Furukawa Teien: Tel (03) 3910-
Also located on Sunshine 0394. Open 9am–5pm daily.
 Ikebukuro stn, Marunouchi, 60-dori, Toyota Amlux, a five-
Yurakucho & Fukutoshin lines. floor car showroom with a The celebrated Rikugi-en Garden
£ Ikebukuro stn, Yamanote & many designer studio and a virtual was constructed by Yanagisawa
other lines. Ancient Orient Museum: driving simulator, is worth a Yoshiyasu, grand chamberlain of
Tel (03) 3989-3491. Open 10am– look. Over on the west side, the fifth shogun, in seven years,
5pm daily. & Tokyo Metropolitan visitors can watch crafts men starting in 1695. Yataro Iwasaki,
Theatre: Tel (03) 5391-2111. & for create ceramic objects, paper, Mitsubishi’s founder, oversaw
some concerts. lacquer, knives, and kimonos its Meiji-era renova tion. The
at the Japan Traditional Craft design recreates 88 landscapes
With the third-busiest train Center (see p140). Besides in miniature from famous waka
station in Japan its free art exhi bi tions on (31-syllable poems), so the
(after Shinjuku the fifth floor, the nearby view changes every few steps.
and Shibuya), Tokyo Metropolitan Komagome’s other garden of
Ikebukuro is Theatre is famous note is the Kyu Furukawa Teien.
a designated for its unusually Its main building, a charcoal-grey
fukutoshin (sub- long glass stone residence designed by
center) of Tokyo. escalator and its pipe British architect Josiah Conder,
Devoid of the organ, which is one of the resembles a small Scottish manor
pretensions of other biggest in the world. house. The mansion and its
entertainment districts Built in 1921, Jiyu English-style rose garden sit on a
such as Shinjuku and Gakuen Myonichikan ridge above steps leading down
Shibuya, it is a relaxed (School of Freedom) is to a land scaped area, replete
place, even when a private school build- with a tea ceremony pavilion
seeth ing with people A statue in front of ing designed by the and a heart-shaped pond.
who are drawn by Ikebukuro Station famous architect Frank
the area’s moder ately Lloyd Wright in his
priced restaurants and bars. characteristic geometric style.
A short walk east of the station
lies Ikebukuro’s main attraction, 2 Sugamo
Sunshine City, a four-block Sugamo
complex whose core building is
the iconic Sunshine 60, one of  Sugamo stn, Mita line. £ Sugamo
Asia’s tallest buildings. It is built on stn, Yamanote line. Shinsho-ji Temple:
top of what was Sugamo Prison, Tel (03) 3918-4068. Open daily.
where seven World War II war Kogan -ji Temple: Tel (03) 3917-8221.
criminals, includ ing Prime Minister Open daily.
Hideki Tojo, were imprisoned
and then hanged. There is a Sugamo has two temples of
planetarium, aquarium, and interest. Shinsho-ji temple’s
60th-floor observatory here. The courtyard is dominated by a
often-overlooked Ancient Orient large bronze figure. Worship ped
Museum, on the 7th floor of the as a protector of children and Manicured shrubs in the landscaped
Bunka Kaikan Center, is Sunshine travelers, it is one of the six Rikugi-en garden




074-075_EW_Tokyo.indd 74 12/09/16 11:27 am

F AR THER AFIELD  75


5 Gokoku-ji Temple the ceiling in paintings that float
over transoms covered with
colorful carvings of peonies.
 Gokoku-ji stn, Yurakucho line. Completing the ensemble
Tel (03) 3941-0764. of buildings that have been
designated Important Cultural
Given Gokoku-ji’s historical Properties are an imposing bell
credentials as one of Edo’s tower and a rare two-tiered
most important temples, pagoda, a popular subject
and its survival in the face for painters.
of earthquakes, fires, and air
raids during World War II, the 6 Zoshigaya
absence of visitors, especially
on weekdays, is surprising.
Minowabashi stop, a terminal of the Before entering the spacious  Higashi-Ikebukuro stn, Yurakucho
Toden Arakawa Line grounds of the temple, visitors line. £ Ikebukuro stn, Yamanote line.
pass through the arresting
4 Arakawa Tram Niomon gate. The gate takes its To the left of Gokoku-ji temple’s
Line name from the statues of two rear exit at Higashi-Ikebukuro,
fierce-looking, red-faced Deva just beyond the Shuto Express-
kings positioned at either way underpass, Zoshigaya
 Edogawabashi stn, Yurakucho line; side of the entrance. Cemetery is the rest-
Otsuka stn, Yamanote line. Sumida The statues are meant ing place of several
River trips: n (03) 5608-8869. to ward off malev olent important literary
spirits. The right- fig ures, including
Back in 1955, 600,000 people a hand figure’s Japanese novelists
day were riding the dozens of mouth is open, such as Soseki
tram lines that crisscrossed the while his Natsume and
city. Now, the 8-mile (13-km) compan ion’s Kafu Nagai.
Arakawa Line is one of only two is closed. This The Greek-Irish
that remain. The others were symbo lizes Seventeenth-century two-story pagoda, writer Lafcadio
eliminated as old-fashioned exhalation Gokoku-ji temple Hearn, whose
in the modern iza tion for the and inhalation, books helped
1964 Olympics. creation and dissolution; to intro duce Japan to the West
The Arakawa tram line runs the harmony of opposites in the Meiji era, is also buried
from Waseda in the west to encountered in many of here. Scenic tree-endowed
Minowabashi in the east and Japan’s arts. graveyards such as Zoshigaya
costs ¥170 for each trip, short Stunningly well preserved, can get crowded during
or long. Near the Waseda end the complex’s main hall, dating the spring cherry-viewing
of the line is the quiet stroll from 1681, with its sweep ing season. Another little-visited
garden of Shin Edogawa. copper roof and massive pillars, spot, the Zoshigaya Missionary
A short walk from Arakawa is a treasure house of Buddhist Museum built in 1907 by
Yuenchimae stop is a modest statuary. Foremost among the an American missionary
amuse ment park, Arakawa Yuen deities here are Kannon, the John Moody McCaleb, is a
Park; Sumida River tourboat goddess of mercy. Eight well-preserved colonial house
trips leave from here. Oppo site celestial maidens dance across open to visitors.
the Arakawa Nanachome stop
is Arakawa Nature Park.
The line takes in sections of
Shinjuku, Toshima, and Arakawa
wards, providing easy access
to city sights within walking
distance of its stations. These
include the historically important
Kishimojin-do (Pome granate
Temple) in Zoshigaya, and
the Kyu Furukawa Teien
(see p74) in Kita Ward. Jokan-ji
temple, the last resting place
of destitute prostitutes from
the old Yoshiwara pleasure
quarter, is a short stroll
from the line’s eastern
terminus at Minowabashi. Monks praying inside the well-preserved main hall, Gokoku-ji temple




074-075_EW_Tokyo.indd 75 12/09/16 11:27 am

76  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA


7 Ryogoku District

Map 4 E4–5.  Ryogoku stn, Toei-Oedo
line. £ Ryogoku stn, JR Sobu line. Sumo
Museum: 1-3-28 Yokoami, Sumida-ku.
Tel (03) 3622-0366. Open 10am–
4:30pm Mon–Fri. Closed Sat, Sun &
public hols. Edo-Tokyo Museum: 1-4-1
Yokoami, Sumida-ku. Tel (03) 3626-
9974. Open 9:30am–5:30pm Tue–Sun
(7:30pm Sat). &
On the east bank of the Sumida Interior of the Fukagawa Edo Museum
River, Ryogoku was a great enter-
tainment and commerce center in arched wooden bridge, a replica Today, incense is burnt before the
Edo’s Shitamachi. These days it is of Nihonbashi (see p44). There are three-story pagoda and memorial
a quiet place but still has its most life-sized reconstructed buildings, hall to mark the catastrophe. The
famous resi dents – sumo wrest- including the facade of a Kabuki park’s Yokami Gallery displays an
lers. Many beya (sumo stables) are theater. Marvelous scale-model odd collection of melted metal
here, and it is not unusual to see dioramas, some of which are objects – a broken water pipe,
huge young men walking the automated, show everything from the burnt chassis of a car, and
streets in yukata (light cotton kim- the house of a daimyo (feudal a mass of melted nails
onos) and geta (wooden sandals). lord) to a section of Shitamachi.
The Ryogoku Sumo Hall has Beside a scale model of Tokyo’s
been here since 1945; the current first skyscraper is rubble from the 8 Downtown
building dates from 1985. During 1923 earthquake. There is a rick- Fukagawa
a tournament (see pp20–21) many shaw and Japan’s first “light” auto-
of the wrestlers simply walk from mobile – a three-seater Subaru Map 6 F1–3.£ Monzen-Nakacho
stn, Tozai & Oedo lines; Kiyosumi-
their beya. Inside the stadium with a 360 cc engine. In the media Shirakawa stn, Oedo & Hanzomon
is a Sumo Museum lined with section is an example of how lines. Fukagawa Edo Museum: Tel (03)
portraits of all the yokozuna ukiyo-e wood-block prints (see p57) 3630-8625. Open 9:30am–5pm daily.
(grand champions) dating were pro duced. Models of the Closed 2nd & 4th Mon. Kiyosumi
back to the early 19th century. boats that once plied the Sumida Teien: Tel (03) 3641-5892. Open
Beside the stadium is the huge River give an idea of how impor- 9am–5pm daily.
Edo-Tokyo Museum, built to tant the river was to Edo life. Just
resemble an old style of elevated up from the bridge, Kyu Yasuda This area is situated east of
warehouse. One of Tokyo’s most Teien, a tiny Japanese stroll garden the Sumida River and squarely
interesting museums, it has an replete with traditional stone lan- within what was known as
exhibition space that is divided terns, an orange-colored bridge Shitamachi, or the “low city” (see
into two zones on two floors over a carp pond, azalea bushes, p56). It took centuries to reclaim
tracing life in Edo and then Tokyo, and topiary, is located next to the land from Tokyo Bay and
as Edo was renamed in 1868. The the Yokoami cho Park. The park is the estuary of the Sumida River.
exhibits, some of them interactive, dedicated to the victims of the To get a good historical grip
appeal to both adults and Great Kanto Earthquake, which on the neighborhood, visit the
children and have explana tions struck at precisely one minute Fukagawa Edo Museum. It
in Japanese and English. before noon on September 1, recreates an old area of Fukaga-
The historic route around the 1923, and to the victims of the wa circa 1840, with 11 original
museum starts at a traditional Great Tokyo Air Raids as well. buildings, homes, shops, a theater,
a boathouse, a tavern, and a 33-ft
(10-m) high fire tower. The interiors
of the houses have an authentic
atmo sphere with fishing nets and
workman’s clothing casually hung
on the walls, and empty shells
strewn on the floor of a repro-
duced clam peddler’s home.
Built within the grounds of a
large estate in the area of present-
day Monzen Nakacho, the
Kiyosumi Teien is a beautifully
landscaped garden. A wealthy
trader, Kinoku niya Bunzaemon,
built the large es tate and the
Reconstruction of a Kabuki theater in Ryogoku’s Edo-Tokyo Museum grounds were later taken over
For hotels and restaurants see pp112–15 and pp130–37


076-077_EW_Tokyo.indd 76 12/09/16 11:24 am

F AR THER AFIELD  77


by the Iwasaki family, founders Tuna Fish Supplies
of the Mitsubishi group. The
Kiyosumi Teien is a classic Edo- Toyosu Fish Market specializes in maguro (tuna) from as far away as
era kaiyushiki teien, or “pond walk New Zealand and the North Atlantic. Japan consumes about 30 per
around garden,” with plants that cent of the annual global 1.7 million ton tuna catch, and eats 80 per
bloom at different times of the cent of its tuna raw, as sashimi, which requires the best cuts of fish.
year. A tea house, which floats Suppliers can demand prices of up to 10–20 times that of the lower-
above the water, and 55 rare grade tuna. The Pacific Ocean’s
stones, brought from all over Southern Blue Fin tuna,
Japan by Mitsubishi steamships, a favorite for sashimi, is
endangered. The catch is
are the highlights of this garden. managed and tuna numbers
Nearby, the Tomioka currently seem stable,
Hachiman-gu shrine dates from although reduced tuna sales
the 17th century. The current may be due to the recession of
building is a 1968 reconstruction, the 1990s and the late 2000s. If
but its prayer and spirit halls, and the economy in Japan starts to
tower ing, copper-tiled roof are boom, Southern Blue Fin
very impressive. The shrine is dedi- stocks could once again be
cated to eight deities, including Rows of frozen tuna for sale put under pressure.
the ever-popular Benten, goddess
of beauty and the arts. The famed
Flea Market, the Fukagawa refrigeration system in place majestic view of one of the
ennichi, is another attraction. A which ensures all fish sold island’s most striking construc-
lively event, it is held in the shrine there are at their freshest. tions, the Fuji TV Building (see
grounds on the first, second, and The market is divided into four p85). Odaiba Marine Park and
fourth Sundays of the month, main sections, which include a its artificial beach lies on the
from around 6am to sunset. fruit and vegetable market and other side of the building. The
seafood wholesalers area. Tourists Rainbow Bridge can be seen
can see all the sea creatures on from the outdoor wooden
9 Toyosu Fish display, and watch the traders boulevards, cafés, and eateries
Market at work from custom-built of Decks Tokyo Beach (see p85).
observation platforms. They can A short distance from the
東京都中央卸売市場 豊洲市場
also observe the famous, early Tele com Center, the National
Map 5E5. Shijo-mae stn, morning tuna auctions that Museum of Emerging Science
Yurikamome line. were previously held at Tsukiji. and Innovation (Miraikan) is
A large project due to open in dedicated to Japanese high-
In 2016, Tokyo’s main wholesale 2018, called the Senkyakubanrai tech creations. Just across the
fish market was moved from commercial and leisure complex, road from the museum is the
its former location in Tsukiji, is currently being built next to Oedo Onsen Monogatari (Great
as part of the massive redevelop- the market. It will have an Edo- Edo Hot-Spring Tales), which
ment in the lead up to the era theme and include a retail combines thermal springs with
2020 Olympic games. The fish market, shops, restaurants, a historical look at Edo in an
old market at Tsukiji was built a hotel, and even an onsen attractive theme-park setting.
in 1935, when the freight train hotspring. In addition to having a choice
was still the primary means of 16 different bathing options,
of transporting fish and so visitors can check out old-style
struggled to meet the demands 0 Odaiba shops and restaurants along
of the high-paced fish supply  Yurikamome Line from Shimbashi the main street and try their
network. The Toyosu market is stn to Odaiba-kaihinkoen stn; Rinkai hand at traditional games.
40 per cent larger than its pre- line to Tokyo Teleport. 4 from Hinode Nearby is Tokyo Fashion Town,
decessor. Not only is it purpose- Pier 10:10am–7:10pm, every 20–25 an enclosed complex of retail
built, but it has a state-of-the-art mins. National Museum of Emerging shops, boutiques, and cafés.
Science and Innova tion: Tel (03) 3570- Palette Town, a few blocks
9151. Open 10am–5pm Wed–Sun. & farther, is home to the giant
Oedo Onsen Monogatari: Tel (03) ferris wheel and the Mega Web
5500-1126. Open 11am–9am. & (see p84), sup posedly the world’s
largest automobile showroom.
The artificial island of Odaiba It also boasts the opulent Venus
across the middle of Tokyo Bay, Fort (see p84), a highly original
is both a trendy enter tainment fashion shopping experience.
zone and an ideal location for Not far away, the megalithic
cutting-edge architecture. Tokyo Big Sight (see p84)
The lively flea market outside Tomioka Driver less Yurikamome Line houses a conven tion center,
Hachiman-gu shrine trains cross the bay, offering a cafés, and restaurants.




076-077_EW_Tokyo.indd 77 12/09/16 2:19 pm

78  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA


q Sengaku-ji a 19th-century chateau. The
Temple crowded central plaza is a great
spot for people-watching. To
the left of Mitsukoshi is the
 Sengaku-ji stn, Toei Asakusa line. small Yebisu Beer Museum
Museum: Tel (03) 3441-5560. Open with exhibits and vid eos about
9am–4pm daily (Apr–Sep: 4:30pm). & beer worldwide and in Japan,
and free samples.
This temple is the site of the
climax of Japan’s favorite tale e Daikanyama
of loyalty and revenge, retold District
in the play Chushingura and
many movies. Lord Asano was
sentenced to death by seppuku Yebisu Beer Museum, with a Tasting Room £ Daikanyama stn, Tokyu Toyoko
(suicide by disem bowel ment) for cheap draughts line. Art Front Gallery: Tel (03) 3476-
for drawing his sword when w Ebisu District 4868. Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun. &
goaded by Lord Kira. Denied
the right to seek revenge, 47 An important archaeological
of Asano’s samurai, now ronin  Ebisu stn, Hibiya line. £ Ebisu stn, site, where ancient pit dwell ings
(masterless samurai), plotted in Yamanote line. Tokyo Metropolitan and well-preserved burial
secret. In 1703, they attacked Museum of Photography: Tel (03) mounds have been discovered,
Kira’s house and beheaded him, 3280-0099. Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sat Daikanyama is better known
presenting the head to Asano’s (to 8pm Thu & Fri). & ∑ syabi.com these days as a classy, low-rise
grave at Sengaku-ji. They in turn Yebisu Beer Museum: Tel (03) 5423- neighborhood. It is more popular
were sentenced to seppuku and 7255. Open 11am–7pm Tue–Sun with the smart set, who come
are buried here. Inside the (last adm 1 hr before closing; tours here to explore its trendy bou-
temple gate and up the steps until 5:10pm). tiques, restaurants, patisseries,
on the right is the well where and alfresco pavement cafés.
the samurai wash ed Kira’s head. The completion in the mid-1990s Some big name international
Farther ahead on the right are of Yebisu Garden Place, a fashion brands, such as Jean
the samurai’s graves, still tended commercial and residential Paul Gaultier, have outposts
with flowers. Back at the base of center, brought this area to life. here, adding more class and
the steps is an interesting The sup erb Tokyo Metropolitan distinction to an already chic
museum with artifacts from the Museum of Photography, to the district. The area, with its back
incident and statues of some of right of the entrance, has a lanes, shops, and home court-
the 47 ronin. Over shadowed by permanent collection of work yards full of greenery, makes for
the drama, the temple grounds, by Japan ese and foreign a pleasant stroll. Interest in the
approached through a small photographers, and excellent area first grew when Japanese
gate with a trad itional guard special exhibi tions. In the heart architect Fumihiko Maki began
house, merit atten tion. The of Yebisu Garden Place are a his on going Hillside Terrrace,
temple’s original main hall dates Mitsukoshi store, boutiques, an apartment, gallery, and
from 1612; the current building two cinemas, a theater, and shopp ing project along leafy
is a faithful recon struction. The restaurants, includ ing Chateau Kyu Yamate-dori, in 1969.
oldest structure, the Sanmon Restaurant Joël Robuchon, a Buildings have been added over
gate, dates from 1836. French restaurant that looks like the decades. The Art Front


















Yebisu Garden Place skyscraper complex, lined with restaurants, shops, and museums




078-079_EW_Tokyo.indd 78 12/09/16 11:27 am

F AR THER AFIELD  79


to bars and the best concen-
tration of live music venues
in Tokyo, most hosting an array
of eager emerging bands.
This grungy art village, a
haphazard mixture of ram-
shackle, late 20th-century
buildings, and pop art
facades covered in graffiti, is
unquestionably one of the city’s
fashion towns, though it remains
light years away from the chic
and sophisticated streets of
Omotesando or Akasaka. Its
numerous shops and stalls
offer an eclectic selection.
Exhibition of flag models by various artists, Japan Folk Crafts Museum
y Goto Art Museum
Gallery hosts interesting art t Shimokitazawa
exhibi tions. Closer to the station 3-9-25 Kaminoge, Setagaya-ku.
Daikanyama Address Dixsept Tel (03) 3703-0662. £ Tokyu
(see p142) and La Fuente com- £ Shimokitazawa stn, Keio Inokashira Denentoshi line from Shibuya stn
plexes house boutiques, ritzy & Odakyu Odawara lines. Honda Thea- to Futago-Tamagawa, then Tokyu
rest au rants, and trendy cafés. ter: Tel (03) 3468-0030. Open daily Oimachi line to Kaminoge. Open
(times vary according to program). 10am–5pm Tue–Sun. Closed when
r Japan Folk Crafts exhibitions change. &
Museum The really distinguishing Set in a pleasant hillside garden,
character of this region – more
popularly known as Shimokita – this museum showcases
4-3-33 Komaba, Meguro-ku. is its atmosphere. The seeds of the private collection of the
Tel (03) 3467-4527. £ Komaba- the area’s relaxed and well- late chairman of the Tokyu
Todaimae stn, Keio Inokashira established bohemian image Corporation, Keita Goto.
line. Open 10am–5pm Tue– were sown in the 1960s Avidly interested in Zen, he
Sun (last adm: 4:30pm). & when a number of small, was originally attracted to
fringe theaters opened Buddhist calligraphy called
Known to the Japanese as here. Some of these bokuseki, particularly that of
Mingeikan, this small but have survived. Underground 16th-century priests. Also
excellent museum was establish ments, such as the included are ceramics, paint-
founded by art historian famous Honda Theater, ings, and metalwork mirrors;
Yanagi Sosetsu. The Back carrier, provide small but items are changed several times
criteria for inclusion in Japan Folk convivial spaces for a year. The museum’s most
the museum are that the Crafts Museum modern, experimental famous works, however, are
object should be the productions. scenes from 12th-century scrolls
work of an anonymous maker, While this youthful, soulful of the Tale of Genji, painted by
produced for daily use, and district’s north side is a color ful Fujiwara Takayoshi, which have
representative of the region congestion of ethnic restaurants, been designated National
from which it comes. The cafés, fashion bouti ques, and Treasures. They are shown
museum building, designed music and game stores, the once a year, usually during
by Yanagi and completed south exit of the station leads Golden Week (see p156).
in 1936, uses black tiles and
white stucco outside.
On display are items ranging
from woven baskets to ax
sheaths, iron kettles, pottery,
and kimonos; together they
present a fascinating view of
rural life. There are also special
themed exhibits, such as
20th-century ceramics or
Japanese textiles, and a room
dedicated to Korean Yi-dynasty
work. A small gift shop sells fine
crafts and some books. Women in kimonos outside a teahouse at the Goto Art Museum garden




078-079_EW_Tokyo.indd 79 12/09/16 11:27 am

80  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

THREE GUIDED WALKS

For all its cosmopolitan sprawl and Yamanote hills, past Shinto and Confucian
congestion, Tokyo is a feet-friendly city. institutions to the bustling plebian
Its streets, slopes, temples, shrines, cubby- districts of Ochanomizu and Jimbocho.
hole stores, parks and gardens, and The second walk is a step back in time
architecturally stunning buildings are best to the stone courtyards of garden temples,
experienced on foot. From modern, man- craft shops, and the crumbling tombs of
made, sea-facing expanses, and spacious Yanaka, one of the best-preserved older
boulevards to the narrow streets of the past, quarters of Tokyo. The final walk introduces
the walks in this book have been designed useful vantage points from which to take
to maximize time and space by directing in the monumental scale and novelty
you through a concentration of sights, of the artificial island of Odaiba. Food
each route presenting different facets of and refreshment recommendations
the city’s vibrant character. The first walk are factored into each itinerary providing
guides you from the high ground of the enjoyable stopping-off points.






Key
Walk route

Yanaka
(pp82–3)



The tranquil interior of Yushima Tenjin shrine
High to Low
City (p81) Northern Tokyo






Western Tokyo Central Tokyo









Odaiba
(pp84–5)



0 kilometers 2
0 miles 2
Buddhist statue, Tenno-ji
temple, Yanaka




080-081_EW_Tokyo.indd 80 12/09/16 11:27 am

THREE GUIDED W ALKS  81

A 45-Minute Walk from the
High City to the Low City

The walk follows the slopes of the Yamanote, or High City,
down to the flat, river lands of the Shitamachi, the Low
City. Starting from Yushima Tenjin (Yushima Tenman-gu),
the great shrine of learning, this route includes Kanda
Myojin, one of the foremost places of worship in the city,
and a rare Confucian temple sitting on a bluff above the
Kanda River. It takes in a Russian Orthodox Cathedral,
before ending at the lively streets of Ochanomizu.
8 The Archeological Museum
(The Bridge of the Sages). of Meiji University
Pause here to peer west along
the river for a good view of the
19-story Century Tower 5, one K A S U G A - D O R I
of Tokyo’s impressive office Yushima
buildings; the twin towers Uenohirokoji
boast innovative air-condi-
tioning strips, and a 19-floor
atrium that allows extra light
to pour in. Cross the C H U O - D O R I
Key bridge to reach the
YUSHIMA
Walk route
2 Torii (gate) at the entrance to Kanda
K U R A M A E B A S H I - D O R I
Myojin shrine
Suehirocho
Start at Yushima Tenjin shrine K a n d a
YU S HIMA -ZAKA
1, dedicated to a 9th-century R i v e r Ochanomizu SHOHEIBASHI- DORI
scholar deified as Tenjin, the
patron of learning. Walk down K A E D E - D O R I
the gentle slope south of the A I O I - Z A K A
shrine, crossing Kuramaebashi- Ochanomizu AKIHABARA
dori. A copper-plated torii (gate) M E I D A I - D O R I
set at the foot of a slight incline
Shin-
Northern Tokyo off Hongo-dori announces the ochanomizu
entrance to Kanda Myojin JIMBOCHO
shrine 2, the site of the Kanda
Matsuri (see p30), one of the KANDA
city’s grandest festivals. Just Ogawamachi
across the road is the Yushima Y A S U K U N I - D O R I Awajicho
Seido temple 3, dedicated to
the spirit of the Chinese sage
Western Tokyo Central Tokyo
Confucius. Shady temple
gardens are situated at the Russian Orthodox Nikolai out the university’s Criminal
base of a bluff above the Cathedral 6, with its deep Museum 9. Casals Hall 0 on
banks of the Kanda River 4. green onion dome looming the left is a smart auditorium
Walk down to the river and the over the Ochanomizu cityscape. designed by world-famous
stone ramparts of Hijiribashi It is just a few blocks east from Japanese architect Arata Isozaki.
here to Kanda Yabu Soba (see Turn right at the end of Meidai-
Tips for Walkers p132) 7, a legendary buck- dori into Yasukuni-dori and the
wheat noodle restaurant just heart of the famous Kanda-
Starting point: Yushima Tenjin off Shoheibashi-dori. Walk Jimbocho book store district q.
shrine. directly west from here to The walk ends on this street
Length: 2.5 km (1.5 miles). Ochanomizu’s main street, near Jimbocho subway station.
Getting there: The start of this Meidai-dori. The Archeological
walk is the Yushima metro station Museum of Meiji University 8 0 meters 400
on the Chiyoda Line. appears on the right. It has
Stopping-off points: A tea stop one of the best collections of 0 yards 400
at the entrance to Kanda Myojin
shrine; lunch at Kanda Yabu Soba, ancient objects and artifacts Key
a local institution. found on digs around Japan.
In the same building, check Walk route
For keys to symbols see back flap
080-081_EW_Tokyo.indd 81 12/09/16 11:27 am

82  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA

A 90-Minute Walk in Yanaka to the main road, turn left, and
continue walking until you see a
One of the best-preserved old quarters of Tokyo that has flight of stone steps descending
survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the to a narrow shopping street
fire bombings of 1945 relatively unscathed, Yanaka is a rare called the Yanaka Ginza 6,
enclave of the old city. Its famous graveyard, with mossy selling traditional crafts and
foods. Follow the smell of
tombs, Buddha stones, and cherry trees, is the resting place of roasting tea to Chaho
famous literati, actors, and former shoguns. A reclusive retreat Kanekichi-en, an old-fashioned
for artists, writers, and designers, Yanaka’s narrow streets do teashop near the entrance to
not allow for heavy traffic, making it ideal for walking. the street. Return up the stone

O G U B A S H I - D O R I



JR Nishi Nippori
Nippori
FUJIMI- ZAKA
steps, and YANAKA
continue past CEMETERY
Kyoo-ji temple. Turn YANAKA GINZA
4 The picturesque Kyoo-ji temple housing a wooden hall right up a short flight of YANAKA
steps to enter Yanaka
Start this walk by turning left snowflakes and compose Cemetery 7. With its mossy
just after exiting JR Nishi- poetry, it has a rock in the tombstones, leafy walks,
Nippori Station’s south exit. temple garden where the wrought-iron gates, and worn
The quiet road here, sitting shogun Iemitsu rested while stone lanterns, Yanaka Cemetery S A NS A KIZ AK A
on a ridge known as the admiring the view. Today only a is almost Gothic in character. Sendagi
Suwa Plateau, is a good mass of railway tracks and Head to Tenno-ji temple 8, K O T O T O I - D O R I
introduction to the old love hotels can be seen. adjoining the cemetery ground.
world charms of Yanaka. More interesting are the The statue of the Great Buddha
Follow the sloping well-carved stone Buddhas of Yanaka, a bronze figure cast S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
road until a row of near the temple’s in 1691 is the focal point.
ginkgo trees and entrance, and a bronze Return to the road, bear left
a well-weathered figure of Jizo, protector of and then take the first right, NEZU UENO
Suwa shrine 1 children, carved in 1691 reaching a T-junction at the end. PARK
appear on the left. by a Buddhist priest- It is easy to miss, but on the right Nezu S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
Foun ded in 1322, artist Kumu-shonin. is the former Gamo residence 9,
the shrine is home Walk past the small now a community space called
to the deity who 1 Lion sculpture outside road known as Korinsha, a fine example of N I C H I - I D A I - T S U T S U J I - D O RI K O T O T O I - D O R I
protects Nippori Suwa shrine Fujimi-zaka or “Fuji- dashigeta-zukuri (projecting
and Yanaka districts. Viewing Slope,” a HONGO
It is just a few steps along narrow road lined with old red-
to Joko-ji temple 2, known as brick walls. Directly opposite a
the “Snow-Viewing Temple.” row of old tene ments, the main
Once a popular spot to watch attraction at Yofuku-ji temple 3
is the Nioman gate. The two
Tips for Walkers guardian statues within the gate
were built at the beginning of
Starting point: Nishi-Nippori the 18th century.
station, south exit. Take a left at the end of the
Length: 1.5 miles (2.5 km). road and Kyoo-ji temple 4 comes
Getting there: Arrive via the JR into view, its zelkova wood gate
Yamanote Line train or Chiyoda pitted with bullet holes from an
Line metro. ancient battle. Return to the
Stopping-off points: A range main road, and continue to the
of original tea blends at Chaho Asakura Choso Museum 5, a
Kanekichi-en, and plenty of
Japanese restaurants. sculpture gallery dedicated to
the work of renowned Japanese 8 Seventeenth-century bronze statue of
sculptor, Fumio Asakura. Return Buddha, Tenno-ji temple




082-083_EW_Tokyo.indd 82 12/09/16 11:27 am

THREE GUIDED W ALKS  83


girder style) design. Turn left at Yanaka Kannon, after
the T-junction, away from Nishi the goddess of mercy.
Nippori Station. Turn right down Continue down the
Sansakizaka and walk to the slope for about 100
entrance of Zensho-en temple meters (100 yards) or so
0. Medi tation sessions are held for Daien-ji temple q.
here on Sunday mornings, but Two adjoining halls, one
the main point of interest is Buddhist and the other
a 20-ft (6-m) high, gold-leaf- Shinto, have fine
covered statue at the rear of the wooden carvings of
main hall; this is known as the dragons, nymphs, and
Chinese phoenixes.
Across the road from
Daien-ji is one of Tokyo’s
O G U B A S H I - D O R I
oldest and most

exquisite paper arts
shops, Isetatsu w. View
well-crafted fans, combs,
JR Nishi Nippori
Nippori dolls, and colorful chests
of drawers. Take the lane
next to the shop and
FUJIMI- ZAKA CEMETERY walk until you reach a r The ornate exterior of Nezu Shrine
YANAKA
small road. Turn left and
YANAKA GINZA YANAKA then bear right until the Follow the road down to busy
T-junction. The Daimyo Clock
Museum e to your right
Shinobazu-dori. Turn right and
displa ys a fascinating
turn left for Nezu Shrine r. Enter
collec tion of time pieces walk up to the traffic lights, then
made exclusively for through the impressive vermilion
S A NS A KIZ AK A Japan’s feudal lords. Zuishin mon gate, then to a
K O T O T O I - D O R I partitions. You will then reach
second portal, Karamon gate,
Sendagi with some fine lacquered
the main sanctuary, a superb
Momo yama-style structure
with vivid carvings. Return to
Shino bazu-dori, turn right,
and walk a few blocks.
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
NEZU UENO Cross Kototoi-dori until
PARK
you see a unique three-
story wooden Meiji-era
Nezu S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I building that houses the
N I C H I - I D A I - T S U T S U J I - D O RI K O T O T O I - D O R I HONGO metro station.
popular Hantei t (see
p132), an atmos pheric
Japan ese-style restaurant.
This walk ends near Nezu

0 meters 200
0 yards 200


Key
Walk route

w Isetatsu shop, renowned for Edo-style paper with colorful patterns
For keys to symbols see back flap


082-083_EW_Tokyo.indd 83 12/09/16 11:27 am

84  T OK Y O AREA B Y AREA
A 90-Minute Walk in Odaiba designer boutiques such as
Jean Paul Gaultier and Vanessa
The post-modernist buildings, art installations, and shopping Bruno. Windows have been
malls that constitute Odaiba (see p77) seem to hail from eliminated for the sake of
another world. Odaiba’s sheer audacity, its flam boyant striking optical illusions,
marriage of design, technology, commer cialism, and fun, including an artificial overhead
epito mizes Japan’s fascination with blending high kitsch sky that permanently re­creates
the ambience of twilight. Soak
into a concoction that is both refined and brashly artificial. in the scenery, then enjoy a
In this pleasure quarter for the city savvy, a walk through snack at the Gardener’s Café,
this island comes with restaurant and café stops to recover which specializes in organic
from the sheer over-stimulation. foods sourced from Hokkaido.




DAI-SAN DAIBA SHUTO EXPRESSWAY NO 11 DAIBA LINE
HISTORICAL PARK Kokusai-tenjijo
Ariake
ODAIBA
KAIHIN
PARK
Key EAST PROMENADE
Odaiba Seaside SHUTO EXPRESSWAY WANGAN LINE
Park Station
Kokusai-
Walk route tenjijo-seimon
1 The futuristic Tokyo Big Sight building, a remarkable piece of architecture Odaiba-kaihin-
kōen
Start the walk at Tokyo Big Sight Starlight 2, comes into view Tokyo Big Sight
1, which is accessed by over­ on the right. The views from Tokyo- Station
teleport
head walk ways from Kokusai­ the top are worth the dizzy Daiba
Tenjijo Station, or by climbing sensation some passengers may CENTRAL PROMENADE
the steps from the Suijo water experience as they rise above
bus, Tokyo Big Sight Station. the picturesque bay. Also in the SHIOKAZE Aomi
One of Tokyo’s prominent Palette Town development, PARK
architec tural marvels, Tokyo Big Mega Web 3, a state­of­the­art 0 meters 400 Palette Town
Sight combines a convention automobile showroom, is run 0 yards 400 Station
center, exhibition halls, cafés, by Toyota. Look out for Toyota Fune-no- WEST PROMENADE
and restaurants in a pyramidal City Showcase, with a driving kagakukan
structure that appears to be simulator, test­drive area, and
upside down. Large atriums a History Garage Museum.
and an eighth­floor obser vation Cross to the next block of
gallery provide superb views of Palette Town and enter the
the Tokyo waterfront develop­ unreal world of the Renaissance­ Walk to the rear of Palette
ment and the bay. themed shopping mall Venus Town, turn left and move Telecom-
Return to the elevated Fort 4, a complex of retail along the Central Promenade, center
tracks of the Yurikamome Line, shops and cafés lined with until you reach the 88­ft
following them in the direction (27­m) high statue of Flame
of Aomi Station and the Palette of Freedom in the form of a
Town complex. The gigantic golden needle, the work of
ferris wheel, the Stream of modern sculptor Marc Coutelier.
Turn left here and walk along
Tips for Walkers the West Promenade until the
Miraikan 5, the National
Starting point: Kokusai­Tenjijo­ Museum of Emerging Science
Seimon Station on the and Innovation, appears on
Yurikamome Line. the right. This museum is
Length: 1 mile (2 km). dedicated to displays of
Stopping-off points: Japanese high­tech designs,
Recuperate at a table with a and one of its most popular
view of the goings on at Venus attractions is the diminutive
Fort at Thé Chinois Madu. Daiba running robot Asimo.
Little Hong Kong typifies the
island’s ersatz fun, and the food Experimental kits, robots,
is good. 4 The opulent interiors of Venus Fort and interesting space goods
shopping mall are on sale at the gift shop.

084-085_EW_Tokyo.indd 84 12/09/16 11:27 am

THREE GUIDED W ALKS  85S


Walk from the Miraikan past
the Telecom Center to reach
Oedo Onsen Monogatari 6,
a hot-spring theme park that
features various kinds of
traditional amusements in
an old-world atmosphere, in
addition to spa facilities. Follow
the Yurikamome Line north
toward Daiba Station. Ocean-
facing Shiokaze Park, a good q Rainbow Bridge and the Tokyo skyline

picnic spot with lots of trees, arcade, and a multiplex cinema.
is on the left. Just beyond the Visitors are usually surprised
station, the spectacular Fuji when they glimpse the
TV Building 7 (see p16) looms remarkable replica of New York
City’s Statue of Liberty 9 at the
edge of the concourse.
DAI-SAN DAIBA
HISTORICAL PARK Kokusai-tenjijo Stroll along the
SHUTO EXPRESSWAY NO 11 DAIBA LINE
outdoor wooden
Ariake
boulevards,
ODAIBA cafés, and
KAIHIN
PARK EAST PROMENADE eateries of
Odaiba Seaside SHUTO EXPRESSWAY WANGAN LINE Sunset Beach
Park Station tenjijo-seimon Restaurant
Kokusai-
Odaiba-kaihin- Row. This forms
kōen
the exterior
part of Decks
Tokyo Big Sight
Tokyo- Station Tokyo Beach, a
teleport
CENTRAL PROMENADE The Decks Tokyo Brewery,
Daiba shopping and
amusement complex.
SHIOKAZE Aomi on the fifth floor, is notable for
PARK the Daiba brand micro-beer
brewed on the premises. Sega
Palette Town
Station Joyopolis, a virtual reality
into view. arcade, occupies the third to
Fune-no- WEST PROMENADE
kagakukan Designed by fifth floors. Odaiba Marine Park
master Japanese 0, a sliver of green abutting a
architect Kenzo Tange, sandy, artificial beach, lies
the buil ding’s two main below Decks. Visitors peer over
sections are linked by the strip to the graceful lines of
walkways and a silver sphere the expansive Rainbow Bridge
Telecom- containing a restaurant and q, atmospherically illuminated
center an observation gallery. Aqua at night. Duck back into the
City 8, the complex next door, main building of Decks Tokyo
houses countless restaurants, Beach. Daiba Little Hong Kong
cafés, fashion stores, a video w up on the sixth and seventh
floors consists of several
“streets” that simulate a
downtown Chinese area. With
speakers emitting sounds of
feral cats fighting in narrow
lanes and the roar of planes
descending over washing lines,
it is more a romantic throwback
to mid-20th-century Hong
Kong than the modern city’s
skyscraper districts. Chinese
dumplings and dim sum at
Shi An Gyoza in Little Hong
Kong are a treat. The walk
ends here. Odaiba Kaihin-koen
5 The Miraikan, showcasing Japan’s high-tech wonders Station is nearby.
For keys to symbols see back flap
084-085_EW_Tokyo.indd 85 12/09/16 11:27 am

086-087_EW_Tokyo.indd 86 12/09/16 11:28 am

BEY OND T OK Y O  87


BEYOND TOKYO


Some of the country’s most famous sights are just a short train
trip away from Tokyo. Foremost among these are the historic
temple towns of Nikko, Narita, and Kamakura, and bustling
Yokohama, Japan’s second-largest city. Hakone is a
mountainous hot-spring town and on a clear day,
it offers picturesque views of the soaring peak of
Mount Fuji – one of the great icons of Japan.

It takes less time than one would imagine shops. The origins of the magnificent
to leave behind the sprawling suburbs, Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu shrine date
dormitory towns, and industrial fringes from the 11th century, while the Great
of Tokyo to reach breathtaking natural Buddha, a splendidly realized bronze
habitats and environs. Fine hiking trails, statue, has survived from when it was
wildlife, and flora are easily accessed at first cast in 1252. To the east of Tokyo,
Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park and the Narita-san, an important temple
Fuji Five Lakes area, while the volcanic associated with Fudo, the god of fire, is
hills and gorges of Hakone and the a place of common worship throughout
Izu Peninsula have been hot-spring the year. Located a stone’s throw from
destinations for foreign visitors since Narita Airport, this temple provides the
the 19th century. chance to see how Japanese observe
Yokohama, a cosmopolitan city with a their faith, right down to having new cars
vibrant port area, delightful museums, blessed and protective amulets hung on
and a large, atmospheric Chinatown them, in a ritual presided over by robed
district combines history, ethnicity, priests. Just an hour north of the capital,
and modernity. Yokohama’s neighbor the elaborate shrines, grand gates, and
Kamakura, sitting snugly between green tombs of Nikko, where the first shogun
hills and the Pacific, is a treasure-house Ieyasu is enshrined, are overshadowed
of spectacular Zen temples, tranquil by towering forests of cryptomeria,
gardens, teahouses, and exquisite craft creating a mood of spiritual grandeur.























A row of Buddhist statues, Nikko, Tochigi prefecture
Snow-capped Mount Fuji and the Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park



086-087_EW_Tokyo.indd 87 12/09/16 11:28 am

88  BEY OND T OK Y O
Kitakata Fukushima Iwaki
Exploring Beyond Tokyo Niigata

The areas beyond Tokyo offer great geographical TOHOKU EXPRESSWAY
and cultural diversity. Bayside Yokohama, a residential
zone, sits just above the Miura Peninsula. Ocean- NIKKO
facing Kamakura is an ancient temple city. Narita-san,
one of the most important temples in the Kanto area, KANETSU EXPRESSWAY
lies on the flatlands of Chiba beyond the eastern Utsunomiya
suburbs. The thermally rich and picturesque Izu JOETSU SHINKANSEN KANTO
Peninsula lies to the west. Topog raphic diversity Maebashi Mashiko
continues with Hakone and Mount Fuji and the Fuji Nagano Midori Mito
Five Lakes. At historically rich Nikko, the low slopes Takasaki Isesaki Oyama
of the Ashio-sanchi range span west toward Chichibu- Sano
Tama-Kai National Park. Nearby Okutama is a favorite JOSHINETSU Honjo Koga
weekend hiking area for Tokyoites. EXPRESSWAY TOHOKU SHINKANSEN Ishioka

Koumi Tsuchiura
Chichibu Noda Itako
Saitama
Matsumoto, KAWAGOE JOBAN EXPRESSWAY Inashiki
Kanazawa CHICHIBU-TAMA-KAI
NATIONAL PARK HIGASHI KANTO
Okutama EXPRESSWAY NARITA LINE
J
NARITA Asahi Choshi
TOKYO
CHUO LINE Yamanashi Mitaka
CHUO EXPRESSWAY
Kofu Hachioji Chiba
Kawasaki
Mt Takao Ichihara Togane
1,965ft Yamato
Fuji-Yoshida
YOKOHAMA TATEYAMA EXPRESSWAY
J
MOUNT FUJI AND
THE FUJI FIVE LAKES Gotenba TOMEI EXPRESSWAY Kimitsu
S o u t h J a p a n A l p s HAKONE KAMAKURA Peninsula Katsuura
Odawara
Mt Fuji
Boso
12,390ft
Fujinomiya
Fuji
Mishima Atami Kamogawa
I Z U P E N I N S U L A
J J Ito P acif ic Tateyama
SHIZUOKA Shuzenji Ocean
Daibutsu, the Great Buddha of Kamakura Toi
Island
Hammatsu Oshima
Sights at a Glance Shimoda
1 Narita
2 Kawagoe
3 Yokohama
4 Kamakura pp92–5
5 Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park
6 Hakone Key
7 Izu Peninsula Expressway
8 Mount Fuji and the Fuji Major road
Five Lakes pp98–9
9 Shizuoka Main railroad
0 Nikko pp100–105 Minor railroad
Peak




088-089_EW_Tokyo.indd 88 12/09/16 11:24 am

BEY OND T OK Y O  89
Kitakata Fukushima Iwaki
TOHOKU EXPRESSWAY
Niigata


NIKKO


Utsunomiya
KANTO
KANETSU EXPRESSWAY
Maebashi Mashiko
Nagano Mito
Midori Oyama
JOETSU SHINKANSEN
Takasaki
Isesaki Sano
TOHOKU SHINKANSEN
JOSHINETSU Honjo Koga
EXPRESSWAY Ishioka
Koumi Tsuchiura Landmark modern art steel sculpture
Chichibu Noda Itako in Minato Mirai 21, Yokohama
Saitama
Matsumoto, KAWAGOE JOBAN EXPRESSWAY Inashiki
Kanazawa CHICHIBU-TAMA-KAI
NATIONAL PARK HIGASHI KANTO
Okutama EXPRESSWAY NARITA LINE 0 km 15
J 0 miles 15
NARITA Asahi Choshi
TOKYO
CHUO LINE Yamanashi Mitaka
CHUO EXPRESSWAY
Kofu Hachioji Chiba
Kawasaki
Mt Takao Ichihara Togane
1,965ft Yamato
Fuji-Yoshida Getting Around
YOKOHAMA TATEYAMA EXPRESSWAY A superb public transport system
J
MOUNT FUJI AND
THE FUJI FIVE LAKES Gotenba TOMEI EXPRESSWAY Kimitsu provides fast and comfortable access
to these sights. Traffic conditions make
S o u t h J a p a n A l p s HAKONE KAMAKURA Peninsula Katsuura driving less convenient, though guided
Odawara
Mt Fuji
Boso
12,390ft
tours by coach are an option. West-
Fujinomiya
bound trains depart from Shinjuku
Fuji
Asakusa Station. Other locations are
Mishima Atami Kamogawa Station; trains to Nikko run from
served by local lines and extended
I Z U P E N I N S U L A
J J Ito P acif ic Tateyama subways. Hakone, Izu, and the Fuji
SHIZUOKA Shuzenji areas can be visited as day trips, but
merit an overnight stay.
Toi Ocean
Island
Hammatsu Oshima
Shimoda




A panoramic view of the Kegon Falls, Nikko National Park
For keys to symbols see back flap


088-089_EW_Tokyo.indd 89 12/09/16 11:24 am

90  BEY OND T OK Y O


1 Narita
Narita
Chiba prefecture. * 129,000.
k £ n in front of JR stn (0476)
24-3198. ∑ city.narita.chiba.jp/
english _ Setsubun-e (Feb 3).
A quiet little town, Narita’s main
attraction is Narita-san Shinsho-
ji, an Esoteric-Shingon-sect
temple founded in 940 and
dedicated to Fudo Myo-o, Deity
of Immovable Wisdom. Several
times daily, the priests burn
wooden sticks to symbol ize Yokohama Bay Bridge
extinguishing of earthly
passions. The streets are full of of 19th-century Edo (Tokyo) in 3 Yokohama
traditional shops for the 12 its kura buildings. The traditional Yokahama
million temple visitors a year. kura structure, with thick clay
walls, double doors, and heavy Kanagawa prefecture. * 3,690,000.
Environs shutters, was used for k £ n 1F Sangyo Boeki Center
Near Narita are over 1,000 ancient warehouses and shops. Bldg (045) 221-2111. ∑ city.yoko
burial mounds (kofun); the best About 30 kura remain, all hama.jp _ Chinese New Year (Feb),
are in the open-air museum within a 10-minute walk north Yokohama Port Festival (May 30–31).
Boso no Mura. The National of Hon-Kawagoe Station. The
Museum of Japanese History Kura-Zukuri Shiryokan, formerly Japan’s second-largest city,
offers a good survey of Japan. a kura tobacconist, is now a Yokohama has been a center for
museum. Nearby, Toki-no-kane shipping, trade, foreign contact,
Y Boso no Mura
15 mins by taxi from Narita stn. wooden bell tower was built in and modern ideas since the
Tel (0476) 95-3333. Open Tue–Sun. 1624 to tell the time and warn mid-19th century. Formerly
of fires. East of the kura streets a small fishing village on the
P National Museum of Japanese is Kita-in, a Tendai-sect temple Tokaido road, it was made
History which includes the only extant a treaty port in 1859; there
15 mins walk from Sakura stn. Tel rooms from Edo Castle. followed an influx of foreign
(043) 486-0123. Open Tue–Sun. & At one time, Kawagoe traders, especially Chinese and
possessed its own castle, British, making it the biggest
2 Kawagoe which was the dominant port in Asia by the early 20th
structure in the town. Part of
century. The 1923 Kanto
Kawagoe Earthquake wiped out 95 Pacifico
that castle remains in the shape
Yokohama
Shin Yokohoma Station
600m (650 yards)
Saitama prefecture. * 322,000. £ of Honmaru Goten, the former per cent of the city, killing Ramen Museum, Exhibition Hall
n at JR stn (049) 222-5556. ∑ city. residence of the feudal lord, 40,000 people, then World Kirin Beer Village, MINATO
kawagoe.saitama.jp _ Ashi-odori which features majestic rooms War II bombing again destroyed TOKYO MIRAI 21 Convention
KOKUSAI-ODORI
Hall
Yokohama
(Leg-dancing, Apr 14), Kawagoe and elegant reception halls. half the city. After the war, Museum of Art Cosmo
Festival (3rd weekend in Oct). Yokohama became a base for Minato Clock 21
Mirai
Kura-Zukuri Shiryokan US soldiers. By the 1970s, it was Landmark SAKURA-DORI SHINKO-CHO
Plaza
Nicknamed “Little Edo,” Tel (049) 222-5399. Open Tue–Sun. once again Japan’s largest port. Landmark Tower
Kawagoe preserves the Closed 4th Fri of month. & The heart of the city is compact METROPOLITAN Nippon Maru Yokohama
atmosphere Honmaru Goten and walkable. EXPRESSWAY NYK Maritime International
Museum
2-13-1 Kurawa-machi. Tel (049) 224- Minato Mirai 21, an area of Passenger
Terminal
6015. Open 9am–5pm redeveloped docks, has some Sakuragicho Kanagawa
Tue–Sun. creative architecture (with high- Prefectural Bashamichi
Hodogaya
tech earthquake-proofing) and Commonwealth Museum Hikawa Maru
on weekends comes alive with Cemetery BASHAMICHI HONCHO-DORI
street performers. Its focal point KANNAI-ODORI Nippon Odori Yamashita
Park
is the Landmark Tower, built in KANNAI Marine
1993 under US archi tect Hugh Tower Yokohama
Bay Bridge
Stubbins and, at 971 ft (296 m), Kannai MINATO-ODORI OSANBASHI-ODORI CHINATOWN Motomachi-
Japan’s second-tallest building. METROPOLITAN EXPRESSW AY Chukagai
METROPOLITAN EXPRESSWAY
Reached by the world’s fastest Yokohama Kantei-byo Sankei-en
Garden
elevator (at 2,500 ft (750 m) per Stadium Temple MOTOMACHI Foreigners’
minute), the 69th-floor public YAMATE Cemetery
lounge has a spectacular Ishikawacho Nakamura River Motomachi
A row of kura buildings in Kawagoe 360-degree view. To the north, Park
090-091_EW_Tokyo.indd 90 12/09/16 11:28 am

BEY OND T OK Y O  91


Kenzo Tange’s Yokohama Among the many 4,500 tombs Environs
Museum of Art houses in the early 20th-century Outside the center are two
displays of modern art and Foreigners’ Cemetery is that entertaining venu es – Kirin
photography. of Edmund Morel, the English Beer Village, with tasting
In the older, more attractive engineer who helped build tours of the automated Kirin
part of town, the NYK Maritime Japan’s first railroads, with a brewery; and Shin-Yokohama
Museum covers the history of tombstone shaped like a Ramen Museum (see p136).
shipping, with detail ed models. railroad ticket. The lovely The Hodogaya Commonwealth
Created on rubble from the Sankei-en Garden belonged to Cemetery (a bus ride from
1923 earthquake, Yamashita silk-trader Tomitaro Hara (1868– Yokohama, Hodogaya, or
Park is a pleasant promenade 1939). Among the ponds and Sakuragi-cho stations) contains
overlooking the futuristic flowers are 16 architectural Allied graves from World War II
Osanbashi Pier; ships, including treasures, including a three- (including POWs).
the restored moored liner story pagoda from Kyoto.
Hikawa Maru, which cruised Kirin Beer Village
between Yokohama and Seattle Landmark Tower £ Namamugi stn, Keihin Kyuko line.
in 1930–60; and the 2,800-ft Tel (045) 222-5015. Open daily. Tel (045) 503-8250. Open Tue–Sun.
(860-m) long Yoko hama Bay P Yokohama Museum of Art
Bridge (1989). Tel (045) 221-0300. Open Fri–Wed. &
Chinatown, the largest of
Japan’s three Chinatowns, has P NYK Maritime Museum
around 2,500 Chinese inhabit- Tel (045) 211-1923. Open Tue–Sun. &
ants, and a mass of restaurants, Hikawa Maru
food shops, Chinese-medicine Tel (045) 641-4362. Open Tue–Sun. &
shops, and fortune-tellers. At its
heart is the Chinese Kantei- Z Foreigners’ Cemetery
byo temple (1886), dedicated Tel (045) 622-1311. Open Apr–Nov:
to ancient Chinese hero Guan- Sat, Sun, & public hols.
yu, who was worshiped as a Y Sankei-en Garden
god of war but is now popular 10 mins by bus from Negishi stn (JR)
as a god of busi ness success to Honmoku Sankei-en Mae. One of the colorful entrance gates to
and prosperity. Tel (045) 621-0634. Open daily. & Yokohama’s Chinatown

Yokohama City Center
1 Minato Mirai 21
2 Yokohama Museum of Art
3 Landmark Tower
Pacifico 4 NYK Maritime Museum
Yokohama
Shin Yokohoma Station Exhibition Hall 5 Kantei-byo Temple
600m (650 yards)
Ramen Museum, MINATO 6 Chinatown
Kirin Beer Village,
TOKYO MIRAI 21 Convention 7 Yamashita Park
KOKUSAI-ODORI
Hall
Yokohama 8 Hikawa Maru
Museum of Art Minato Cosmo 9 Foreigners’ Cemetery
SAKURA-DORI
Landmark Mirai Clock 21
Plaza SHINKO-CHO
Landmark Tower
Nippon Maru
Yokohama
NYK Maritime International
Museum Passenger
METROPOLITAN
Terminal
EXPRESSWAY
Sakuragicho Kanagawa
Prefectural Bashamichi
Hodogaya Museum
Commonwealth Hikawa Maru
BASHAMICHI KANNAI-ODORI KANNAI Yamashita
Cemetery HONCHO-DORI
Nippon Odori
Park
MINATO-ODORI OSANBASHI-ODORI Marine Yokohama
Tower
Bay Bridge
Kannai CHINATOWN Motomachi-
0 meters 500 Chukagai Sankei-en
Yokohama Kantei-byo Garden
Stadium Temple MOTOMACHI Foreigners’
METROPOLITAN EXPRESSW AY
0 yards 500 METROPOLITAN EXPRESSWAY Cemetery
Motomachi
Ishikawacho Nakamura River YAMATE
Park
For keys to symbols see back flap
090-091_EW_Tokyo.indd 91 12/09/16 11:28 am

92  BEY OND T OK Y O

4 Kamakura 1191. The approach runs
Kamakura between two lotus ponds: the
Genji Pond has three islands (in
A seaside town of temples and wooded hills, Kamakura Japanese san means both three
was Japan’s administrative capital from 1192 until 1333. and life) while the Heike Pond,
As a legacy, today it has 19 Shinto shrines and 65 Buddhist named for a rival clan, has four
temples, inc luding two of Japan’s oldest Zen mona steries (shi means both four and
death). The path leads to the
(in Kita Kamakura, see p94). Many of the temples and gardens Maiden stage for dances and
nestle against the hills that ring the town and are linked by music. The main shrine above
three hiking trails. Favored by artists and writers, Kamakura was reconstructed in 1828 in
has numerous antique and crafts shops. In cherry-blossom Edo style. To the east, the
season and on summer weekends it can be swamped by Kamakura National Treasure
visitors. Some parts are best explored on foot, but there are House Museum contains a
wealth of temple treasures.
one-day bus passes and bicycles for rent at Kamakura Station.
 Myohon-ji Temple
£ Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) 22-0777.
Open daily.
On a hillside of soaring trees,
this temple, with its steep,
extended roof, is Kama kura’s
largest of the Nichiren sect. YOKOHAMA
It was established in 1260, in
memory of a 1203 massacre. Kita-Kamakura
Station
Engaku-ji
 Hokoku-ji Temple Temple
@ Tel (0467) 22-0762. Open daily. Tokei-ji Hansobo
Shrine
Temple
& (for adm to bamboo grove). Meigetsu-in Ten-en
Temple
The buildings at Hokoku-ji, a Jochi-ji Hiking Trail
The path down the center of Wakamiya-oji, Kamakura’s main street Rinzai Zen temple founded in Temple
1334, are modern; its great
 Hase-dera Temple children, surrounded by count- attrac tion is its lovely bamboo Choju-ji Kencho-ji Temple Kakuon-ji
Temple
£ Hase stn. @ Tel (0467) 22-6300. less statues to children who grove. There is also a pleasant Temple
K AMAKURA-KAIDO
Open daily. & ∑ hasedera.jp/en have died or been aborted. raked gravel and rock garden Zuisen-ji
Temple
Simple and elegant, Hase-dera worth exploring. Enno-ji
Tsurugaoka
is home to a superb 11-faced  Great Buddha Temple Hachiman-gu
Kannon, bodhisattva of mercy. £ Hase stn. @ Tel (0467) 22-0703. Shrine
The Treasure House displays Open daily. & Kamakura-gu
Shrine
characteristic Muromachi-era The Great Buddha (Daibutsu) is Zeni-Arai
carvings of the 33 incarnations Kamakura’s most famous sight. Benten Shrine Prefectural Modern National Sugimoto-dera
Temple
Art Gallery
of Kannon and a 1421 image Cast in 1252, the bronze statue Treasure House
Museum
of Daikokuten, god of wealth. of the Amida Buddha is 44 ft Sasuke-no KAN AZAWA-KAIDO Jomio-ji Temple
Beside it is the sutra repository; (13.5 m) tall. Having survived tidal Inari Shrine Hokai-ji
rotating the sutras is said to waves, fires, earthquakes, and K O M A C H I - D O R I W A K A M I Y A - O J I Temple
earn as much merit as reading typhoons, it now has shock- KO M A C H I - D O R I
them. The 1264 bell is the absorbers in its base. Its propor- SHIYAKUSHO- Hokoku-ji
town’s oldest. Below it is a hall tions are distorted so that it seems Great Buddha DORI Kamakura Temple
dedicated to Jizo, guardian of balanced to those in front of it – Hiking Trail Station Gion-san
this use of perspective may show Hiking Trail
Greek influence (via the Silk Road). Myohon-ji
The interior is open to visitors. Temple
Great Buddha Y U I GA H A M A - D O R I
 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu (Daibutsu)
Shrine Wadazuka
£ Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) 22-0315. Station Myoho-ji
Temple
Open daily. Kamakura National Hase-dera Yuigahama
Station
Treasure House Museum: Tel (0467) Temple Nameri R iver Ankokuron-ji
22-0753. Open daily. & Temple
Hase Chosho-ji
Hachiman shrines are dedi cated Station Temple YOKOSUKA
to the god of war; this one is
also a guardian shrine of the N A T I O N A L H I G H W A Y 1 3 4
Minamoto (or Genji) clan. Built Yuigahama Kuhon-ji
Temple
Beach
The head of the Great Buddha, or Daibutsu in 1063, it was moved here in ENOSHIMA
092-093_EW_Tokyo.indd 92 12/09/16 2:25 pm

BEY OND T OK Y O  93


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Kanagawa prefecture.
* 172,800. n at Kamakura
stn (0467) 22-3350.
∑ en.kamakura-info.jp
_ New Year archery (Jan 5),
Kamakura Festival (2nd–3rd
Sun in Apr), Hachiman-gu
Festival (Sep 14–16), Menkake-
The Maiden in front of the main shrine at Hachimangu shrine
gyoretsu (Sep 18), Torch light
Noh (Oct 8–9).
 Zuisen-ji Temple narcissi also bloom here in
@ Tel (0467) 22-1191. January, and Japanese plum Transport
Open daily. & trees blossom in February. £ JR and Enoden lines.
This secluded temple is known
for its naturalistic garden.  Sugimoto-dera Temple
Creat ed in 1327 by the monk @ Tel (0467) 22-3463. The softly thatched hall
Muso Soseki, it features a Open daily. & contains three wooden statues
waterfall-fed lake, rocks, and Founded in 734, this is one of of 11-faced Kannon, protected
sand; a Zen meditation cave is the oldest temples in Kamakura, by ferocious guardian figures
cut into the cliff. Decorative and pleasantly informal. at the temple gateway.
YOKOHAMA
Kita-Kamakura
Station
Engaku-ji
Temple
Tokei-ji Hansobo
Temple Shrine
Meigetsu-in Ten-en
Temple Hiking Trail
Jochi-ji
Temple
Kakuon-ji
Choju-ji Kencho-ji Temple Temple
Temple
K AMAKURA-KAIDO
Zuisen-ji
Temple
Enno-ji
Temple Tsurugaoka
Hachiman-gu
Shrine
Kamakura-gu
Shrine
Zeni-Arai
Benten Shrine Prefectural Modern Sugimoto-dera
Art Gallery National Temple
Treasure House
Museum KAN AZAWA-KAIDO
K O M A C H I - D O R I W A K A M I Y A - O J I Hokai-ji
Sasuke-no Jomio-ji Temple
Inari Shrine
Temple
Temple
SHIYAKUSHO-
DORI KO M A C H I - D O R I Hokoku-ji
Great Buddha Kamakura
Hiking Trail Station Sights at a Glance
Gion-san
Hiking Trail 1 Engaku-ji Temple
Myohon-ji 2 Tokei-ji Temple
Temple
3 Meigetsu-in Temple
Great Buddha Y U I GA H A M A - D O R I 4 Kencho-ji Temple
(Daibutsu)
5 Zeni-arai Benten Shrine
Wadazuka
Station Myoho-ji 6 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu
Temple Shrine
Hase-dera Yuigahama
Temple Station Nameri R iver Ankokuron-ji 7 Zuisen-ji Temple
Hase Chosho-ji Temple 8 Sugimoto-dera Temple
Station Temple 0 meters 500 9 Hokoku-ji Temple
YOKOSUKA 0 yards 500 0 Myohon-ji Temple
N A T I O N A L H I G H W A Y 1 3 4 Kuhon-ji q Hase-dera Temple
Yuigahama
Beach Temple w Great Buddha
ENOSHIMA
For keys to symbols see back flap
092-093_EW_Tokyo.indd 93 12/09/16 2:25 pm

94  BEY OND T OK Y O

Exploring Kita Kamakura gardens. As well as hydrangeas
(at their peak in June), there are
Zen Buddhism came to Japan from China at the end of the irises; these bloom in late May,
12th century. Its simplicity and accessibility appealed to the when the rear garden, usually
ethos of Kamakura samurai warriors as well as to ordi nary only tantalizingly glimpsed
people. Kita (north) Kamakura, a tranquil area of wooded through a round win dow, is
gullies, includes three of Kama kura’s five great Zen temples – opened to the public.
Kencho-ji, Engaku-ji, and Jochi-ji (the others are Jomyo-ji  Kencho-ji Temple
and Jufuku-ji). The area is served by its own train station, £ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467)
from which most sights can be reached on foot. Delicate 22-0981. Open daily. &
vegetarian food (see p119), which complies with Zen dietary Kencho-ji is the foremost of
rules, can be tried at Kita Kamakura temples and restaurants. Kamakura’s five great Zen
temples and the oldest Zen
training monastery in Japan.
 Engaku-ji Temple Founded in 1253, the temple
£ Kita Kamakura stn. originally had seven main
Tel (0467) 22-0478. buildings and 49 subtemples;
Open daily. & many were destroyed in fires,
Deep in trees, the largest but 10 subtemples remain.
of Kama kura’s five great Beside the impressive Sanmon
Zen temples, Engaku-ji gate is the bell, cast in 1255,
was founded by the which has a Zen inscription
Hojo regent Tokimune by the temple’s founder. The
in 1282. An influential Buddha Hall contains a Jizo
medi tation center since bodhisattva, savior of souls of
the Meiji era, it now the dead. Behind the hall is the
runs public courses. Hatto, where public cere monies
Although much are performed. The Karamon
of Engaku-ji was (Chinese gate) leads to the Hojo,
destroyed by the 1923 used for services. Its rear garden
Kanto Earthquake, 17 is constructed around a pond
of its more than 40 supposedly in the shape of the
subtemples remain, and kanji character for heart or
careful re building has mind. To the side of the temple
ensured that it retains its a tree-lined lane leads to sub-
charac teristic Zen layout temples and up steps to Hanso-
(see opposite). One of bo, the temple’s shrine.
its highlights, in the Bosatsu statue at Kencho-ji
Shozoku-in subtemple, is  Zeni-Arai Benten Shrine
the Shariden. Japan’s finest  Tokei-ji Temple £ Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) 25-1081.
example of Chinese Sung-style £ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467) Open daily.
Zen archi tecture, it is open 22-1663. Open daily. & This popular shrine is dedi cated
only at New Year but can be This quiet little temple was set to Benten, goddess of music,
seen through a gate at other up as a convent in 1285, at a eloquence, and the arts, and
times. Farther on, the Butsuni- time when only men were one of the “seven lucky gods” of
chian, mauso leum of Engaku-ji’s allowed to petition for divorce. folk religion. Hidden in a niche
founder, serves matcha tea. It However, if a woman spent three in the cliffs, it is approached
was the setting for Yasunari years here she could divorce through a small tunnel and a
Kawabata’s 1949 novel Sen­ her husband. Thus Tokei-ji was row of torii (gates). These lead
bazuru (Thousand Cranes). nicknamed the “divorce temple.” to a pocket of wafting incense,
In 1873 the law was changed to lucky charms, and a cave spring
allow women to initiate divorce; where visitors wash coins in the
in 1902 Tokei-ji became a mona- hope of doubling their value.
stery. It is still refuge-like, with
gardens stretching back to the
wooded hillside.

 Meigetsu-in Temple
£ Kita Kamakura stn. Tel (0467)
24-3437. Open daily. &
Known as the “hydrangea
Stone monuments in the peaceful cemetery temple,” Meigetsu-in is a small
at Tokei-ji temple Zen temple with attractive Washing coins at Zeni-Arai Benten shrine




094-095_EW_Tokyo.indd 94 12/09/16 11:28 am

BEY OND T OK Y O  95


The Layout of a Zen Buddhist Temple

Japanese Zen temple layout is typically based on Chinese Sung-dynasty tem ples.
Essentially rectilinear and symmetrical (in contrast to native Japanese asym metry), Zen
temples have the main buildings in a straight line one behind another, on a roughly
north-south axis. The main buildings comprise the Sanmon (main gate), Butsuden
(Buddha Hall), Hatto lecture hall, sometimes a meditation or study hall, and the abbot’s
and monks’ quarters. In practice, sub temples often crowd around the main buildings and
may obscure the basic layout. The temple compound is entered by a bridge over a pond or
stream, symbolically crossing from the earthly world to that of the Buddha. Buildings are
natural looking, often of unpainted wood, conducive to emptying the mind of worldly
illusions, to facilitate enlighten ment. The example below is based on Engaku-ji.

The Shariden, in Shozoku-in Obai-in
subtemple, enshrines the subtemple
Buddha’s tooth. The building
is a National Treasure due to
its Zen architecture.



The Butsunichian subtemple
is the mausoleum of Tokimune
and contains a statue of him.
The Daiho-jo was formerly the
Pond abbot’s quarters and is now
used for religious rituals. Next
to it are a kitchen and library.

Juniper trees are sometimes
Gravel planted near the main buildings
The Butsuden garden and are often grown from seeds
(Buddha Hall) supposedly brought from China
contains an image of by the founder.
the Buddha. The hall
at Engaku-ji was Former Hatto Karamon (Chinese gate)
rebuilt in 1964. (lecture hall)
Former bath
The Senbutsu-jo is
a thatched building
where priests used
to be ordained. It
now occasion ally
serves as a
meditation hall.



The temple bell at
Archery Engaku-ji, the largest in
hall Kamakura, dates from
1301 and is now rung
Somon only on New Year’s Eve.
(gate)
The bridge to Engaku-ji
The Sanmon is the main crosses the White Heron pond.
gate. Made of wood and The path also crosses the rail
held together without nails, track, doubling the symbolism
it was built in 1783. of leaving the real world.





094-095_EW_Tokyo.indd 95 12/09/16 2:52 pm

96  BEY OND T OK Y O


5 Chichibu-Tama- Yosegi-Zaiku Marquetry
Kai National Park
Originating in the 9th century, this type of marquetry has been a
Cichibu-Tama National Park
Hakone specialty since the 19th century; today there are about
Tokyo, Saitama, Nagano, and Yamana- 100 practitioners in the area. Although it looks like in laid mosaic,
shi prefectures. * 71,500 (Chichibu yosegi-zaiku uses a very different
city). £ Seibu-Chichibu stn, Seibu- technique. Strips are cut from planks
Chichibu line; Chichibu stn, Chichibu of up to 40 varieties of undyed woods
line; Okutama or Mitake stns, JR line. and glued together to form patterned
n Chichibu stn (0494) 25-3192. blocks. These are in turn glued into
_ Yo Matsuri (Dec 2–3, Chichibu larger blocks, which are then either
city). ∑ env.go.jp/en/nature/nps/ shaped with a lathe into bowls and
park/parks/chichibu.html boxes, or shaved into cross-sectional
sheets, used to coat items such as
boxes and purses. The paper-thin
This remote area of low sheets are flexible and can be
mountains, rich in traditions laminated. Some of the most popular
and wildlife, stretches from creations are “magic” boxes, opened
the narrow valleys of Okutama Craftsman making a in a sequence of moves to reveal a
in the south to the basin yosegi-zaiku box hidden drawer.
around Chichibu city in the
north. The two parts of the
park are separated by Environs leaving a legacy today of hot
mountains, crossed only by South of Chichibu-Tama lies springs and steam vents.
a few hiking trails, and are Mount Takao (on the Keio train Although Hakone can be
reached by two separate rail line to Takaosan-guchi). Its slopes visited as a long day trip from
networks. Within the park, have pleasant walks with sweep- Tokyo, it is worth an overnight
travel is mostly by bus. ing views of Tokyo and Mount Fuji. stay. Two- or three-day public
Chichibu was a prime silk- transportation passes are avail-
producing region until the 6 Hakone able on the Odakyu Line from
early 20th century. Today it is Shinjuku, Tokyo. A convenient
known for its vibrant festivals Hakone
circuit of the main sights starts
and its pilgrim route linking Kanagawa prefecture. * 14,000. from the onsen (hot spring)
34 Kannon temples. To the £ n 698 Yumoto, Hakone (0460) town of Hakone-Yumoto, taking
north, at Nagatoro, the Arakawa 85-8911. ∑ hakone.or.jp/en the Tozan switchback train up
River runs past rare crystalline _ Torii yaki (Aug 5, Lake Ashi), Daimyo the hillside to Hakone Open-Air
schist rock formations. Gyoretsu (Nov 3, Hakone-Yumoto). Museum, with its modern
In the Okutama area, Mount sculptures. Continue via funi-
Mitake has good hiking, and an Hakone is a hilly hot-spring town cular to Hakone Art Museum,
attractive mountaintop shrine whose scattered attractions which has an excellent Japanese
village, easily reached by a are both cultural and natural. ceramic collection and garden.
funicular. Stalactite caves at Popular as a re sort since the 9th Via the funicular and then a
Nippara are worth visiting. century, it can be very crowded. ropeway over the crest of the
The Hakone area extends across hill is the Owaku-dani (“Valley
} Nippara Caves the collapsed remains of a huge of great boiling”), an area of
NW of Okutama. Tel (0428) 83-8491. volcano, which was active sulfurous steam vents. This is
Open daily. & until 3,000 to 4,000 years ago, an active volcanic zone, so

















Crossing the rocky scree and steaming vents of Owaku-dani valley in Hakone




096-097_EW_Tokyo.indd 96 12/09/16 11:28 am

BEY OND T OK Y O  97

8 Mount Fuji and
the Fuji Five Lakes
See pp98–9.
9 Shizuoka
Shizuoka
Shizuoka & Yamanashi prefecture.
* 713,000. £ n in JR stn (054)
252-4247. ∑ pref.shizuoka.jp/a_
foreign/english/index.html
_ Shizuoka Festival (1st w/e Apr).
Settlement in this area stretches
back to AD 200–300. Later a stop
on the old Tokaido road, and the
A statue of The Izu Dancer by a waterfall near Kawazu, Izu Peninsula retire ment home of Tokugawa
Ieyasu (see p103), Shizuoka is
sometimes the ropeway or 7 Izu Peninsula today a sprawling urban center,
sections of this area are closed Izu Peninsula
the city at greatest risk of a
to visitors due to safety concerns. major earthquake in Japan.
The ropeway continues to Shizuoka prefecture. £ n Atami, As a result it is probably the
Lake Ashi, where replicas of Ito, and Shuzenji stns. _ Fireworks only place that is fully prepared.
historical Western-style boats Festival (Jul 22–3, Atagawa), Anjin The Toro Ruins near the port
run to Hakone-machi and Festival (Aug 8–10, Ito). have well-explained reconstruc-
Moto-Hakone. In clear weather tions of ancient buildings and an
there are breath- A picturesque, hilly peninsula excellent interactive museum. The
taking views with a benign climate, Izu is view from Nihondaira plateau,
of Mount Fuji. At popular for its numerous hot in the east of the city, to Mount
Hakone-machi springs. A place of exile in the Fuji and Izu, is superb. Nearby
is an interesting Middle Ages, in the early 17th is Kunozan Tosho-gu, one of
re construction century it was home to the the three top Tosho-gu shrines.
of the Seki-sho shipwrecked English man
Yosegi-zaiku box, Barrier Gate, a William Adams, whose story T Toro Ruins
Hatajuku historic check- was the basis of the James Museum: Tel (0542) 85-0476.
point that used Clavell novel Shogun. Shimoda, Open Tue–Sun. Closed the day
to control the passage of on the southern tip, became a after public hols.. &
people and guns on the Edo- coaling station for foreign ships
period Tokaido road between in 1854, then opened to US Environs
Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. traders. Today Shimoda has West of Shizuoka, Kanaya
From Hakone-machi it is a little of interest besides has one of Japan’s largest
short walk to Moto-Hakone. In a pretty gray-and-white walls, tea plantations. Fields and
prominent position on a hilltop reinforced against typhoons processing plants can be visited,
overlooking Lake Ashi, Narukawa with crisscross plasterwork. and the elegant Ocha no Sato
Art Museum exhibits 1,500 Izu’s east coast is quite devel- museum portrays tea lore.
artworks by modern Japanese oped, but the west has charm- Nearby, the Oigawa steam
masters, and has spectacular ing coves and fishing villages, railroad takes you right into
views of the surrounding such as Toi and Heda, offer ing the untamed South Alps.
mountains. Over a pass beyond delicious long-legged crabs P Ocha no Sato
Moto-Hakone is the Amazake- and other seafood. The center Tel (0547) 46-5588. Open daily.
chaya tea house, and Hatajuku is also relatively unspoiled, with Closed Tue. &
village, known for yosegi-zaiku, a wooded mountains and rustic
form of decorative marquetry. hot springs, including Shuzenji
onsen and a chain of villages
P Hakone Open-Air Museum from Amagi Yugashima to
Tel (0460) 82-1161. Open daily. & Kawazu. The latter were the
setting for Yasunari Kawabata’s
P Hakone Art Museum
Tel (0460) 82-2623. Open Fri–Wed. & short story The Izu Dancer,
commemorated
Seki-sho Barrier Gate across Izu. Two-day
Tel (0460) 83-6635. Open daily. & transportation passes
P Narukawa Art Museum cover parts of the
Tel (0460) 83-6828. Open daily. & peninsula. A reconstructed dwelling at the Toro site, Shizuoka




096-097_EW_Tokyo.indd 97 12/09/16 11:28 am

98  BEY OND T OK Y O

8 Mount Fuji and the Fuji Five Lakes

Mount Fuji and the Fuji Five Lakes
At 12,390 ft (3,776 m), Mount Fuji is Japan’s highest peak
by far, its near-perfect cone floating lilac gray or snow-
capped above hilltops and low cloud. Dormant since
1707, the volcano first erupted 8–10,000 years ago. Its
upper slopes are loose volcanic ash, devoid of greenery
or streams. Before the 20th century, Mount Fuji was
considered so sacred that it was climbed only by priests Lake Sai
and pilgrims; women were not allowed until 1868. This is the least spoiled of the Fuji
Today pilgrims are greatly outnumbered by recreational Five Lakes and offers beautiful views
climbers. The Fuji Five Lakes area, at the foot of the of Mount Fuji.
mountain, is a playground for Tokyoites, with sports Lake Kawaguchi is the
facilities and amusement parks. most accessible and
Lake Shoji is the commercialized lake.
smallest lake, and
Key Lake
Lake Motosu is good for fishing. Kawaguchi Chuo Expressway
Expressway the deepest lake,
Other road reaching a depth of Lake Sai Kawaguchi-ko
Trail 460 ft (140 m). Lake
Shoji
The Sea of Trees (Aokigahara Fugaku Narusawa
Jukai) is a primeval forest famed Lake Wind Ice Cave
Cave
for being easy to get lost in. Motosu
Sea of Trees
Kawaguchi-ko trail is 5–6
hours up from the 5th stage,
and 3 hours down. Another
trail, the Yoshida, shares most
of its route with this one.
5th
stage
•
Tips for Walkers
Planning: The mountain is open
for climbing only in July, August,
and the first half of September. • 5th
Trails and huts can be very stage • 5th stage
crowded on weekends.
Stages: The trails are divided into
10 stages. Climbers usually start
at the 5th stage. To see the
sunrise and avoid the midday The top is not a
sun, it is usual to climb by night single summit,
or start in the after noon, sleep in but a crater rim.
a hut at the 7th or 8th stage, and A circuit of the
rise very early to finish the climb. rim takes about Fujinomiya
Conditions: The climb is hard work an hour. The Fujinomiya trail
as the steep volcanic cinder shifts is 5 hours up from the
underfoot like sand. Above the 8th 5th stage, and 3 hours
stage, altitude sickness can strike: if 30 minutes down.
you have a serious head ache or
nausea, descend at once. The sum-
mit is much colder than the base. Approaching the Crater
What to take: Sun-protection Rim
cream, hat, sweater, raincoat, At the top, climbers and
hiking shoes, flashlight, and pilgrims can visit Sengen
emergency drink supplies; a shrine, 24-hour noodle
walking stick is useful.
stalls, a post office, and an
office for souvenir stamps.




098-099_EW_Tokyo.indd 98 12/09/16 11:24 am