(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Tokyo

ENTER T AINMENT IN T OK Y O  149


DIRECTORY
Information International NHK Hall Smash Hits
Sources Theater 2-2-1 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku. M2 Building B1F, 5-2-26
Map 1 B4. Hiroo, Shibuya-ku.
Go Tokyo Tokyo Comedy Store Tel (03) 3465-1751.
∑ gotokyo.org/en ∑ tokyocomedy.com Tel (03) 3444-0432.
Nippon Budokan
Japan Times Live Music Sumo and Other
∑ japantimes.co.jp/ 2-3 Kitanomaru-Koen, Martial Arts
Chiyoda-ku. Map 3 A5.
culture B Flat Tel (03) 3216-5100.
Japan Today 6-6-4, Akasaka, Dewanoumi Beya
∑ japantoday.com Minato-ku. Map 2 F4. Orchard Hall 2-3-15 Ryogoku,
Tel (03) 5563-2563. Bunkamura, 2-24-1 Sumida-ku. Map 4 E5.
Metropolis Dogenzaka, Shibuya-ku.
∑ metropolis.co.jp Billboard Live Map 1 A6. Izutsu Beya
Tokyo Midtown Garden
Realtokyo Terrace 4F, 9-7-4 Akasaka. Tel (03) 3477-9111. 2-2-7 Ryogoku,
∑ realtokyo.co.jp/ Map 2 E5. O-West Sumida-ku. Map 4 E5.
english Tel (03) 3405-1133. 2-3 Maruyama-cho, Kasugano Beya
Tokyo Food Page Blue Note Tokyo Shibuya-ku. Map 1 A5. 1-7-11 Ryogoku,
∑ bento.com/tokyofood. Raika Building, Tel (03) 5784-7088. Sumida-ku. Map 4 E5.
html 6-3-16 Minami-Aoyama, Pink Cow
Tokyo Weekender Minato-ku. Map 2 D5. 5-5-1 Roppongi, Roi Ryoguku Sumo Hall
∑ tokyoweekender. Tel (03) 5485-0088. Building, B1F, Minato-ku. 1-3-28 Yokoami,
com Blues Alley Japan Map 2 E5. Sumida-ku. Map 4 E4.
Tel (03) 6434-5773.
Tel (03) 3623-5111.
Booking Tickets 1-3-14 Meguro, Meguro-
ku. Map 1 B1. Shinjuku Pit Inn Nippon Budokan
CN Playguide Tel (03) 5496-4381. B1 Accord Building, 2-12- See Live Music.
∑ cnplayguide.com Club Quattro 4 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.
Lawson Parco Quattro 4F, Map 1 B1. Baseball
and Soccer
∑ l-tike.com 32-13 Udagawa-cho, Tel (03) 3354-2024.
Shibuya-ku. Map 1 A5. Sumida Triphony Hall
Ticket PIA Tel (03) 3477-8750. 1-2-3 Kinshi, Sumida-ku. Ajinomoto Stadium
Tel (0570) 02-9999. 376-3 Nishimachi, Chofu
∑ t.pia.jp Cotton Club Tel (03) 5608-1212. City. Tel (0424) 40-0555.
2 F Tokia Tokyo Building, Suntory Hall
Cinema 2-7-3 Marunouchi, 1-13-1 Akasaka, Jingu Stadium
Chiyoda-ku. Map 5 B2. Minato-ku. Map 2 F4. 3-1 Kasumigaoka,
Bunkamura Tel (03) 3215-1555.
2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Tel (03) 3505-1001. Shinjuku-ku. Map 2 D4.
Shibuya-ku. Map 1 A5. Duo Music Exchange SuperDeluxe Tel (03) 3404-8999.
Tel (03) 3477-9111. 2-14-8 Dogenzaka, B1F 3-1-25 Nishi-Azabu,
Shibuya-ku. Map 1 A5. Minato-ku. Map 2 E5. Nissan Stadium
Ghibli Museum Tel (03) 5459-8716. 3300 Kozukue-cho,
1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Tel (03) 5412-0515. Kohoku-ku, Yokohama
Mitaka-shi. Eggman Womb City. Tel (045) 477-5000.
Tel (0570) 055-777. 1-6-8 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku. 2-16 Maruyamacho, ∑ nissan-stadium.jp/
Map 1 B5. Shibuya-ku. Map 1 B5.
Theater Image Forum Tel (03) 3496-1785. english
2-10-2 Shibuya, Tel (03) 5459-0039.
Shibuya-ku. Map 1 C5. Liquid Room Zepp Tokyo Tokyo Dome
Tel (03) 5766-0114. 3-16-6 Higashi, Palette Town, 1-3-11 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku.
Shibuya-ku. Map 3 A3.
Toho Cinema Tel (03) 5464-0800. Aomi, Koto-ku. Tel (03) 5800-9999.
Keyakizaka Complex, Tel (03) 3599-0710.
6-10-2 Roppongi, Minato- Nakano Sun Plaza Pachinko
ku. Map 2 E5. Tel (0506) 4-1-1 Nakano, Karaoke
868-5024 (press 9 for Nakano-ku. Karaoke-kan Maruhan Shinjuku
English). Tel (03) 3388-1177.
K&F Building, Toho Building
Toho Cinemas New National Theater 30-8 Udagawa-cho, 1-19-1 Kabukicho,
Chanter 1-1-1 Honmachi, Shibuya-ku. Shinjuku-ku.
1-2-2 Yurakucho, Chiyoda- Shibuya-ku. Map 1 A2. Map 1 B5. Map 1 B1.
ku. Tel (050) 6868-5001. Tel (03) 5351-3011. Tel (03) 3462-0785. Tel (03) 5292-0611.



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150  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Traditional Performing Arts In contrast, a Noh performance
can be heavy going for those
Despite Tokyo’s ultra-modern exterior, its heart still moves to a unprepared for its slow pace.
traditional beat. The rarified, otherworldly court music known As a theatrical experience,
as gagaku dates back much further than the city itself, as does however, it can be exceptionally
the Noh Theater (see p18). It is, however, the performing arts po werful. The National Noh
Theater near Sendagaya JR
of the Edo period (see p27), especially Kabuki and the Bunraku station usually has weekend
puppet theater (see p19), that capture the rich, vibrant cultural performances. Tickets vary from
life of premodern Japan. Such displays are not hard to find – ¥2,300 to ¥4,300. It is also
at the Kabuki-za Theater, for example, just walk in off the possible to see plays at a Noh
street, buy a one-act ticket, and travel back in time. school, for instance Kanze
Nohgakudo. Outdoor Noh
performed by torchlight (Takigi
Noh) can be wonderfully
atmospheric, especially when
staged in front of an ancient
shrine or temple, such as with
the annual fall performances
at the Kamakura-gu shrine, in
the hills of Kamakura. More
information is readily available
from JNTO (see p159) or the
Kamakura Tourist Association.
The puppet theater, Bunraku,
predates Kabuki, and many of
its plays were later adapted to
the stage. The black-robed
An elegant cypress performance stage, National Noh Theater puppeteers are so skillful, you
soon ignore their presence
Traditional Theater or more hours. It is also possible and just watch the lifelike
Kabuki and Noh, the two best- to buy a ticket to see just one move ments of the puppets
known forms of traditional the- act if you are short of time. themselves. Performances
ater (see pp18–19), are well Prices range from around can be seen at the National
represented in Tokyo. Of the ¥2,500 to as much as ¥16,000; Theater’s Small Hall.
two traditions, Kabuki pro vides one-act tickets are around Kyogen (short comic farces)
a much more flamboyant ¥700. Earphone guides is one of Japan’s oldest
spectacle, with rousing sto ries, giving explanations and forms of drama, and
elaborate sets, and am azing commentary in English in cludes acrobatics and
costumes. However, dramatic are available to hire. juggling. Now played to
action sequences can often be The National Theater comic ef fect, Kyogen is
interspersed with extended also stages Kabuki often per formed as
soliloquies. The Kabuki-za performances in January, part of Noh, or as
Theater (see p42) is the main March, October, individual plays
venue for Kabuki, with almost November, and between Noh plays.
daily performances starting December. A number of Another lighthearted
mid-morning and lasting three unorthodox versions theatrical tradition is
of Kabuki have been Rakugo. Dressed in a
developed to make it kimono and sitting on
more contemporary. a zabuton (cushion),
Super Kabuki, introduced the story tellers act out
in 1985 and staged at comic situations, often
the Shinbashi Enbujo, A giant Bunraku retelling old and well-
adds high-tech special puppet loved stories. Held
effects (such as actors at intimate theaters
flying through the air) to the such as Suzumoto in Ueno
traditional plots. Cocoon or Suehirotei in bustling
Kabuki, a project launched in Shinjuku, they give great insight
1994, brings the traditional into characteristic Japanese
plays and costumes each traditional humor, even without
summer to the Theater understanding the language.
Cocoon in Shibuya, which is A few Rakugo artists have also
A Kabuki performance at the Kabuki-za also known for visiting foreign started doing occasional shows
Theater, Ginza theatrical productions. in English.




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ENTER T AINMENT IN T OK Y O  151


Often shaven-headed and DIRECTORY
almost naked with body
makeup, the dancers follow Traditional Theater
a slow choreography that Kabuki-za Theater
seeks to create beauty out of 4-12-5 Ginza, Chuo-ku.
self-imposed grotesqueness. Map 5 C3.
Look out for performances Tel (03) 3545-6800.
by established troupes such
as Dairakudakan or Buto-sha Kamakura Tourist
Tenkei, staged at Setagaya Association
Tel (0467) 23-3050.
Public Theater but more often
at small fringe theaters in Kanze Nohgakudo
outlying areas. 1-16-4 Shoto, Shibuya-ku.
Takarazuka Theater, a venue for dance and Map 1 A5.
theater performances Tel (03) 3469-5241.
Traditional Music
Traditional and The oldest Japanese musical National Theater
Contemporary Dance 4-1 Hayabusa-cho,
traditions are those of the ma‑ Chiyoda-ku.
Performances of traditional tsuri or festivals (see pp30–33), Map 2 F3.
dance are staged regularly by featuring instruments such as Tel (03) 3265-7411.
the Nihon Buyo Foundation. drums and flutes. Performances National Noh Theater
The Azuma Odori, an annual of captivating ancient court 4-18-1 Sendagaya,
production of dance and music, known as gagaku, Shibuya-ku. Map 1 C3.
drama usually held at the end are given oc casion ally at Tel (03) 3423-1331.
of May, brings Tokyo’s geisha the National Theater or at
community on stage at major temples Shinbashi Enbujo
6-18-2 Ginza, Chuo-ku.
Shinbashi Enbujo. in the city. Map 5 C3.
A unique theater The Japan Tel (03) 3541-2600.
experience is Gagaku
Takarazuka, a Society holds major Suehirotei
company concerts featuring 3-6-12 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku.
divided into other regional Map 1 B1.
Tel (03) 3351-2974.
five troupes in struments such
and composed A woman playing a as the stringed Suzumoto
entirely of women. shamisen instrument koto and shamisen, 2-7-12 Ueno, Taito-ku.
With their own and the shakuhachi Map 3 C3.
state-of-the-art Takarazuka (flute). Do not miss a chance to Tel (03) 3834-5906.
Theater in Yurakucho, they catch a concert by one of the Theater Cocoon
perform traditional adaptations troupes of Japanese drummers, Bunkamura, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka,
in Japanese of Western musicals performing on taiko drums Shibuya-ku.
and historical love stories, and ranging from the size of small Map 1 A5.
are famed for their extravagant snares to huge barrels 6ft Tel (03) 3477-9111.
productions. (2 meters) or more in diameter.
Butoh is a distinct and The most dynamic of the Traditional and
compelling form of performing groups is Kodo, Contemporary Dance
contemporary dance which plays an annual series Nihon Buyo Foundation
developed in the 1960s that of concerts at venues such as 10-8 Sumiyoshi-cho.
draws on elements of mime the popular Bunkamura (see Map 2 D1.
and traditional ascetic practice. p68) in Shibuya each December. Tel (03) 3354-5496.
Setagaya Public Theater
4-1-1 Taishido, Setagaya-ku.
Tel (03) 5432-1526.
∑ setagaya-pt.jp/en
Takarazuka Theater
1-1-3 Yurakucho, Chiyoda-ku.
Map 5 B2.
Tel (03) 5251-2001.
Traditional Music
The Japan Gagaku Society
3-34-15 Koremasa, Fuchu City.
Tel (0423) 66-0679.
Japanese women performing traditional opera dance




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152  TR A VELERS ’ NEEDS

Nightlife evenings and classes. Smoke a
Hav ana cigar and sip premium
Evening does not signal any let-up in the pace of life in Tokyo. aged tequila at Agave or rub
If anything, it seems to intensify, especially in areas where the shoulders with celebrities at Lex
neon burns brightest. Fashionable Ginza, the cosmopolitan Tokyo Red Carpet.
party district of Roppongi, sophisticated Nishi-Azabu, The scene is more relaxed in
nearby Nishi-Azabu. BarBlue is an
youthful Shibuya, or vibrant Shinjuku – there are plenty of upmarket DJ bar where guests
choices. Tokyo is rapidly becoming an all-night city, and it can enjoy excellent cocktails in a
is one of the most exciting places in the world to party. It is friendly atmosphere. SuperDeluxe
not just the clubs and cabarets, many restaurants, bars, and is an eclectic bar-cum-event
traditional izakaya (see p118) now stay open until 2am or later. space with performance art and
live music. In nearby Roppongi,
the Caipirinha Bar swings to
a Brazilian rhythm.
Shibuya is the center of Tokyo
youth culture and the Center-Gai
pedestrian alley is its promenade
and fast-food kitchen. Good
watering holes in the area
include Tasu-Ichi, a standing
bar with very reasonable prices;
and The Aldgate, an Anglophile
pub with an extensive selection
of ales on draught.
Chic, upscale Akasaka also has
a good range of clubs and bars.
Shinjuku’s Kabukicho, with its
The interiors of Hobgoblin, the largest British pub in Tokyo maze of streets and future-world
feel, boasts numerous restaurants
High-Rise Bars lights come on, then descend and clubs. It is also the city’s
The best place to get into the to street level and plunge into most notorious red-light district.
mood for an evening out is at the neon night. It is safe to explore, but beware
one of the city’s high-rise hotel of pickpockets and venues
bars. The Conrad’s TwentyEight that do not post their prices.
Bar has a brilliant view over the Clubs and Bars A more restful neighborhood
Rainbow Bridge and the Odaiba Ginza remains one of Tokyo’s is Shinjuku Sanchome, close
waterfront. In Shibuya, there is most exclusive and priciest to Isetan Department Store.
the Cerulean Tower Hotel, with nightlife districts. But alongside Recommended watering holes
its 40th-floor Bello Visto Bar. the costly hostess bars, include the Marugo wine bar.
Best of all is the Park Hyatt there are also more If sightseeing in
Hotel’s (see p112) luxurious affordable spots, such Asakusa leaves you
52nd-floor New York Bar, as the standing-only thirsty, cross the
as seen in the movie Lost in 300 Bar, where the Sumida River to the
Translation. Cradle a cocktail, food or drink all cost Flamme D’Or bar in
watch the dusk fall and the around ¥300. The the premises of the
Ginza Corridor, a row Logo of British pub, Asahi Breweries
of bars and restaurants Hobgoblin headquarters. Close to
built right under the Kaminarimon gate is
expressway between Ginza the Kamiya Bar, the oldest bar in
and Shinbashi, also offers Tokyo. Near the sumo stadium,
good options. look for Beer Station Ryogoku,
Central to the city’s night-life a German-style bierkeller.
since postwar occupation,
Roppongi stays lively through
the night. A popular place to DJ and Dance Clubs
start the evening is Hobgoblin, Tokyo’s clubbing scene has
Tokyo’s largest British pub. For exploded in the last decade,
more recreation, catch one of attracting top DJs from around
the retro-themed shows at the world. Roppongi, Shinjuku,
Kaguwa, a unique dinner and Shibuya offer a wealth of
theater (entrance ¥3,500). options. In terms of scale, the
New York Bar offers superb views of the Dance the night away at El top spot is AgeHa, in Shin-Kiba,
city below Café Latino, which offers salsa on the other side of Odaiba.




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ENTER T AINMENT IN T OK Y O  153


tunes through an analogue there are still a good number
sound system. of bars that are open to non-
The leading online Japanese speakers. The most
magazine Cyberjapan popular places to meet are GB
carries up-to-date listings. and AiiRO CAFE, a tiny, lively
Dance clubs warm up venue where the action spills out
around 11pm and keep onto the street. The second-floor
going all night. Expect a Kinsmen bar is more sedate,
cover charge of between attracting a mix of all persuasions.
¥2,000 and ¥4,000. Popular with the lesbian commu-
A row of clubs and bars, Shinjuku Sanchome nity, Bar Gold Finger is mostly a
women-only bar, but men are
Gay and Lesbian
Other substantial venues welcome on Mondays and
include favorite Feria; hip Club The undisputed center of Tokyo’s Sundays. Ni-Chome is also the
Camelot; cavernous Womb; gay world is the concentration location for the mega-scale 24
longtime stalwart Club Asia; of bars, clubs, and saunas in the Kaikan bathhouse complex
and Club Harlem. On a more small area of Shinjuku called which also has branches in
manageable scale, 0 Zero Ni-Chome (“2nd Block”). Many of Asakusa and Ueno. A good
keeps things simple and the venues here cater exclusively source of online informa tion
their veteran DJs pump out to the local gay community, but is the Utopia Asia website.
DIRECTORY
High-Rise Bars Caipirinha Bar Tasu-Ichi Feria
Roppongi Park Building, 33-14 Udagawa-cho, 7-13-7 Roppongi,
Bello Visto Bar B1, 3-10-4 Roppongi, Shibuya-ku. Minato-ku. Map 2 E5.
Cerulean Tower Hotel, Minato-ku. Map 2 E5. Map 1 B5. Tel (03) 5785-0656.
26-1, Sakuragaoka-cho, Tel (03) 5775-6783. Tel (03) 3463-0077.
Shibuya-ku. Map 1 B5. El Café Latino Womb
Tel (03) 3476-3000. 3-15-24 Roppongi, The Aldgate 2-16 Maruyama-cho,
Minato-ku. Map 2 E5. 30-4 Udagawa-cho, Shibuya-ku.
New York Bar Tel (03) 3402-8989. Shibuya-ku. Map 1 B5. Map 1 A5.
Park Hyatt Hotel, 3-7-1-2 Tel (03) 3462-2983. Tel (03) 5459-0039.
Nishi Shinjuku, Shinjuku- Flamme D’or
ku. Map 1 A2. 1-23-1 Azumabashi, DJ and Dance Gay and Lesbian
Tel (03) 5323-3458. Sumida-ku. Map 4 F3. Clubs
Tel (03) 5608-5381. 24 Kaikan
TwentyEight Bar Hobgoblin 0 Zero 2-13-1 Shinjuku,
Conrad Hotel, 1-9-1 3-16-33 Roppongi, 2-1-13 Shibuya, Shinjuku-ku. Map 1 C1.
Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-ku. Shibuya-ku. Map 1 B5. Tel (03) 3354-2424.
Minato-ku. Map 5 B4. Map 2 E5. Tel (03) 3797-9933.
Tel (03) 6388-8000. Tel (03) 3568-1280. AiiRO CAFE
AgeHa
Kaguwa 2-2-10 Shin-Kiba, 2-18-1 Shinjuku,
Clubs and Bars 5-4-2 Roppongi, Minato- Shinjuku-ku. Map 1 C1.
ku. Tel (03) 3541-48818. Koto-ku. Tel (03) 6273-0740.
300 Bar Tel (03) 5534-1515.
5-9-11 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Kamiya Bar Club Asia Bar Gold Finger
Map 5 B3. 1-1-1 Asakusa, 1-8 Maruyamacho, 2-12-11 Shinjuku,
Tel (03) 3572-6300. Taito-ku. Map 4 F3. Shinjuku-ku. Map 1 C1.
Tel (03) 3841-5400. Shibuya-ku.
Agave Lex Tokyo Red Carpet Tel (03) 5458-2551. Tel (03) 6383-4649.
7-15-10 Roppongi, 5-5-1 Roppongi, Club Camelot GB
Minato-ku. Map 2 E5. Minato-ku. Map 2 E5. 1-18-2 Jinnan, Shibuya-ku. 2-12-16 Shinjuku,
Tel (03) 3497-0229. Tel (03) 3479-7477. Map 1 B5. Shinjuku-ku.
BarBlue Marugo Tel (03) 5728-5613. Map 1 C2.
1-12-5 Nishi-Azabu, 3-7-5, Shinjuku, Club Harlem Tel (03) 3352-8972.
Minato-ku. Map 2 D5. Shinjuku-ku. Map 1 B1. Dr. Jeekahn’s Bldg 2-3F, Kinsmen
Tel (03) 6804-3193. Tel (03) 3350-4605. 2-4 Maruyamacho, 2-18-5 Shinjuku,
SuperDeluxe Shinjuku-ku. Map 1 C1.
Beer Station Ryogoku B1, 3-1-25 Nishi-Azabu, Shibuya-ku.
1-3-20 Yokoami, Minato-ku. Tel (03) 3461-8806. Tel (03) 3354-4949.
Sumida-ku. Map 4 E5. Map 2 E5. Cyberjapan Utopia Asia
Tel (03) 3623-5252. Tel (03) 5412-0515. ∑ cyberjapan.tv ∑ utopia-asia.com





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SURVIVAL


GUIDE





Practical Information 156–167

Travel Information 168–175
Tokyo Street Finder 176–185



















































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156  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Tokyo is much easier for foreign visitors transportation, accommodations,
to negotiate than is generally believed. sightseeing) is highly developed. Where
Being unable to speak or read Japanese is problems can arise for visitors is in the
rarely a serious problem in the city, since surprising clashes in Tokyo’s unique East–
many everyday signs at tourist attractions West culture – for instance, the contrast
and in major suburbs are displayed in between the ease with which even tourists
Roman script as well as in Japanese can get around on the efficient rail network
characters. English-speaking locals are compared with the difficulty everyone,
generally quick to offer assistance, and including the Japanese, has with locating
the infrastructure for tourism (public an address in the city (see p171).

When to Go
The best times to visit Tokyo
are spring (April–May) and fall
(October–November). July and
August tend to be hot and humid.
The rainy season runs from early
June to mid­July, while typhoon
season, which may bring heavy
rainfall and strong winds, peaks
in August and September.
Tokyo hosts many festivals
throughout the year (see pp30–33).
Cherry­blossom season (usually
late March to early April) draws
large crowds to the parks. Peak
vacation periods for the Japanese
are New Year (December 29–
January 3/4), Golden Week (April Picnics in Tokyo’s Ueno Park at cherry-blossom time
29–May 5), the period around
Obon (the Buddhist Festival of Items may be expensive, but Visitors with only a valid passport;
the Dead; mid­August), and Silver ¥100 stores, found in the larger no visa is needed. US journalists
Week (mid­September, approxi­ neighbor hoods, sell a vast range are an exception and must always
mately every six years). At these of goods. Note that clothes and obtain a visa before traveling to
times, flights and accommoda­ shoes may be available only in Tokyo on business. Temporary
tions fill up fast. However, the smaller sizes. Visitors are not allowed to
only big shutdown of tourist undertake paid employment.
attractions occurs at New Year. Citizens of some countries,
Visas and Passports
including the UK, may extend
Citizens of most Western countries their Temporary Visitor by up to
What to Bring
may enter Tokyo for short visits a further 90 days at the Tokyo
Keep luggage to a minimum. (up to 90 days) as Temporary Regional Immigration Bureau
Train stations often have many at least 10 days before the
steps and no porters. original expiration date.
Modern buildings tend to be If you wish to under take paid
overheated in winter and over­ or voluntary work or long­term
cooled in summer, so take clothes study in Tokyo, you must obtain
that you can layer. Casual clothing a visa from a Japanese embassy
is acceptable everywhere, even before traveling. Foreigners who
in smart restaurants. Footwear stay in Tokyo for more than 90
often has to be removed when days must also apply for a Zairyu
entering tourist attractions, so (Resident) Card at the regional
wear shoes that can be easily immigration office within
slipped on and off. 90 days of arrival in Japan.
During rainy and typhoon This card, or your passport, must
seasons an umbrella is a must; be carried at all times – not doing
they are available at convenience so can occasionally lead to arrest.
stores (konbini). Almost anything A colorful display of practical and souvenir Visa holders who want to leave
you need can be bought in Tokyo. fans for sale the country and return within the
A bullet train speeding past Mt. Fuji



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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  157


duration of their visa now only able at the TIC, most bookstores,
need a re­entry permit from the and hotels. Hotel staff will usually
Tokyo Regional Immigration help reserve tickets for local
Bureau if they will be outside events and shows. Ticket­agency
the country for a period of 12 booths, located near train stations
months or longer. For up­to­ and inside department and con­
date information, contact the venience stores, also book seats
nearest Japanese embassy or in advance and sell tickets up to
consulate ahead of travel. the last minute. CN Playguide,
On the plane, you will be Ticket PIA (see p149), and Ticket
given a landing card. Fill in the Saison are the main agencies.
first part; the second part will be
attached to your pass port to
be completed upon departure. Admission Prices
All foreigners are required to be Admission to Tokyo temples
fingerprinted and photographed An “i” tourist information office, with and shrines is free, however, in
upon arrival in Japan. A refusal to multilingual staff historical towns and cities, such
cooperate may result in being as Kamakura, a fee (¥200–500) is
denied entry into the country. (JNTO) in your own country. The often charged. Some attrac tions
JNTO does not make recommen­ may cost over ¥1,000.
dations or reservations, nor does For discounts on tourist
Travel Safety Advice
it sell Japan Rail Pass Exchange facilities and services, invest in a
Visitors can get up­to­date Orders (see p175), but it can Welcome Card. There are several
travel safety information from suggest travel agents that do. types to choose from, offering
the State Department in the Tokyo’s Tourist Information different benefits and discounts
US, the Foreign and Common­ Center (TIC) offers literature and at museums, sights, hotels, and
wealth Office in the UK, and advice on tour itineraries in and restaurants, for example. Visit
the Department of Foreign outside the city; it does not the website for further details
Affairs and Trade in Australia. make transport bookings. The (see Directory on p159).
TIC also has a counter for the
Welcome Inn Reservation Center
Customs Information Opening Hours
www.itcj.or.jp, where staff will
For non­residents, duty­free arrange hotel reservations at Buddhist temples are typically
allowances are 400 cigarettes or locations beyond Tokyo for free. open 8 or 9am–4pm (until 5pm
18 oz of tobacco or 100 cigars; Most towns outside Tokyo have in summer), but times may vary.
three 0.76­liter bottles of alcohol; a tourist information office, usually Shinto shrines are often open
2 oz (57 g) of perfume; and gifts in or near the main train station. 24 hours. Museums, art galleries,
and souvenirs of a total value up Nearly 100 of these are designated and many tourist attractions are
to ¥200,000 (excluding items less “i” tourist information offices, usually open 10am–4 or 5pm
than ¥10,000). Prohibited articles which have multilingual staff daily except Monday (Tuesday
include narcotic drugs or stimu­ and carry pamphlets in English. if Monday is a public holiday).
lants (including Vicks inhalers, Details of attractions and events Most attractions close for the
some medicines for allergies and in Tokyo can be found in such free New Year holiday period.
sinus problems, and painkillers local publications as Metropolis Shopping hours are mostly
containing codeine); counterfeit (also online at http://metropolis 10am–8pm, though many super­
money; articles that infringe on japan.com) and NAGMAG (also markets stay open until midnight.
patents or copyrights; pornogra­ online at www.nagmag.jp). Free For banking hours, see page 164;
phy; and firearms and ammuni­ listings brochures are also avail­ for post offices, see page 167.
tion. Animals and plants are sub­
ject to quarantine inspection.
For guidelines on tax­free
shopping in Tokyo, see page
138. Guns, swords, and some
personal computers require
an export license from the
Ministry of Economy, Trade,
and Industry. Art objects may
be subject to restrictions.

Tourist Information
Before traveling, request leaflets
and brochures from the Japan
National Tourism Organization Kencho Temple in Kamakura, where an admission fee is charged




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Public Conveniences
Toilets in Japan range from
basic to highly sophisticated.
Japanese-style toilets are simple
troughs over which one squats,
facing the end with the hood.
Many public places, including
trains, have both traditional and
western-style facilities. Toilet
paper and hand towels may
not be provided, so it is wise
to carry some tissues with you.
Modern toilets may have a
panel that, when pressed, plays
a tune or produces a flushing
sound to discreetly mask natural Visitors strolling through a tree-lined path in Yoyogi Park
noises. They may also have
heated seats, automatic seat services and nurseries, while at a discount with their regular
covers, bidets, and hot-air- traditional inns, a maid may be student identity cards, or
drying facilities. For protocol willing to babysit. simply with a verbal claim
on toilet slippers, see page 161. Many theme parks and to being a student.
At many train stations, it is museums are great fun for kids, The general safety of the
not possible to use the toilets but some temples and galleries country makes Japan a popular
unless you have first paid for may have age restrictions. At choice among senior travelers.
your ticket and passed through most attractions, children get People aged 60 and above
the ticket barrier. For those in reduced rates, which are typically often receive discounts on
need, public toilet facilities half the adult price. Children admission fees. However, not
can usually be found in major under 6 can ride for free on buses many facilities are adapted to
stores, fast-food outlets, and and trains; those aged 6 to 11, pay support the needs of those
in quieter neighborhoods’ half-fare. It is unwise to travel on with mobility issues (see also
convenience stores. rush-hour trains with small Travelers with Disabilities).
children. Care should be taken
with little ones in hot onsen pools.
Travelers with If your children are curious Gay and Lesbian
Disabilities about their forthcoming trip Travelers
Facilities for the disabled in to Japan, Kids Web Japan is full Same-sex couples traveling
Tokyo are of mixed quality: of child-friendly informa tion around Japan are unlikely to
the visually impaired are well about the country. encounter many problems.
provided for, but people in Open displays of affection
wheelchairs may face problems Student and Senior may be frowned upon by
with subway and train stations some Japanese, but attitudes
and pedestrian overpasses, Travelers are broader in Tokyo, which
which often have no escalators Upon presentation of an has an active gay scene and
or elevators. However, barrier- International Student Identity a small but lively gay quarter
free access and universal Card or ISIC (www.isic.org), (see p153), though even this
design are slowly becoming students can enjoy reductions only really comes out at night.
implemented, so the situation of up to 50 percent at a number Magnet Tours is a gay-owned
is improving. Most modern of locations in Tokyo, including tour operator specializing in
buildings have excellent toilet major museums, a couple of gay vacations. For more
facilities. For detailed informa- hotels and ferries, and some information on the local gay
tion on disabled facilities, eateries, such as the Hard Rock and lesbian scene, visit the
contact Accessible Tokyo. Café. At several other places Utopia Asia website.
that do not formally recognize
the ISIC, students may receive
Travelers with Children Time and the Calendar
Children are welcome in most Tokyo is 9 hours ahead of
places, including restaurants, Greenwich Mean Time and
and parents need have few 14 hours ahead of US Eastern
worries about their offspring’s Standard Time. There is no
safety. Discreet breastfeeding in daylight-saving time: when
public is accepted, and baby countries that use daylight-
food, formula, and disposable saving time switch to summer
diapers are easily obtainable. Top International Student Identity Card (ISIC), time, the time difference is
hotels usually offer babysitting great for discounts an hour less.




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  159


Years are numbered both by the Conversions types. Containers for recycling
Western system and the reign of Metric to US/UK Standard Styrofoam food trays, PET
the current emperor. The present 1 millimeter = 0.04 inch bottles, and paper drink cartons
era, Heisei (meaning “achieving 1 centimeter = 0.4 inch in addition to other categories
peace”), began when Emperor 1 meter = 3 feet 3 inches stand outside most supermarkets.
Akihito came to the throne in 1 kilometer = 0.6 mile This kind of eco­thinking does
1 gram = 0.04 ounce
1989, which became Heisei 1; 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds not, however, extend to the use
2013 is Heisei 25. The Japanese 1 liter = 2.1 US/1.8 UK pints of disposable wooden chopsticks
system of years is generally used (waribashi), which are the most
within the country, especially Responsible Tourism common implements in eateries
on official documents; the serving Japanese food. Tourists
Western system is often used As might be expected from can do their bit to avoid this
in international contexts. the country that produces the waste of wood by taking their
world’s best­selling hybrid car, own reusable chopsticks to
environmental consciousness restaurants. Organic food has
Electricity
is quite strong in Japan. For not really taken off in Japan as it
The electric current in Tokyo is decades, the Japanese have been has in the West. However, there
100 volts, AC, 50 cycles – a system separating their garbage into are certainly some decent
similar to that in the US. There burnable and non­burnable organic restaurants in Tokyo.
are two different cycles: 50 cycles
in eastern Japan (including
Tokyo) and 60 cycles in western
Japan. Plugs with two flat pins
are standard, so US appliances
can be used, but sometimes
at reduced efficiency.
European appliances can be
used only with transformers suit­
able for US voltage. If in doubt,
consult the appliance instruc­
tions. Some inter national hotels
have two outlets – 110 and 220
volts – although these accept
only two­pin plugs. Adapters are
available from electrical stores. Separate recycling bins can be found outside most supermarkets
DIRECTORY
Visas and Customs Ticket Saison Gay and Lesbian
Passports Information Tel (03) 3341­1824. Travelers
Tokyo Regional Ministry of Economy, Tourist Information
Immigration Bureau Trade, and Industry Center (TIC) Magnet Tours
∑ moj.go.jp ∑ meti.go.jp Marunouchi Trust Tower 2F Sereno Nishishinbashi
UK Embassy North 1F, 1­8­1 Bldg, 2­11­14
Marunouchi, Chiyoda­ku,
∑ ukinjapan.fco.gov. Tourist Nishishinbashi,
uk/eng Information Tokyo. ∑ tictokyo.jp/ Minato­ku, Tokyo.
en/
US Embassy Japan National ∑ magnettours.jp
∑ japan.usembassy.gov Welcome Card
Tourism ∑ jnto.go.jp/eng/ Utopia Asia
Travel Safety Organization (JNTO) arrange/essential/ ∑ utopia-asia.com/
Advice 10F Tokyo Kotsu Kaikan welcome.html tipsjapn.htm
Bldg, 2­10­1 Yurakucho,
Australia Chiyoda­ku, Tokyo. Travelers with
Department of Foreign ∑ jnto.go.jp Disabilities Useful Websites
Affairs and Trade. Australia
∑ dfat.gov.au ∑ jnto.org.au Accessible Tokyo Eventful
∑ smartraveller.gov.au ∑ accessible.jp.org/ ∑ eventful.com/tokyo/
Canada tokyo/en
UK ∑ ilovejapan.ca events
Foreign and Common­ Travelers with
wealth Office. ∑ gov.uk/ UK Japan Guide
foreign-travel-advice ∑ seejapan.co.uk Children ∑ japan-guide.com/
US US Kids Web Japan
US Department of State. ∑ us.jnto.go.jp/top/ ∑ web-japan.org/ Metropolis
∑ travel.state.gov index.php kidsweb ∑ metropolisjapan.com


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Etiquette and Language Smoking
In a number of Tokyo’s wards,
Etiquette is important in Tokyo – the social lubricant for smoking on the street (except in
a crowded community. In recent decades, attitudes have specially designated areas) is
relaxed, yet even the most apparently rebellious Tokyoite will punishable by on­the­spot fines.
There is often a small smoking
not break certain rules. What constitutes correct behavior zone outside major stations.
often varies according to the situation and status of the Smoking is banned on buses
individuals involved. Foreigners will be forgiven most gaffes, and trains (except for some
but good manners will earn them respect. The best approach long­distance trains, such as
is to be as sensitive as possible to situations, avoid loud or the shinkansen, which has
dogmatic behavior, and follow the lead of those around you. smoking cars), as well as all
stations. Lighting up is usually
permitted in restaurants and
Taboos bars, but the number of non­
Few allowances are made even smoking venues is on the rise.
for foreigners on certain points,
mainly relating to Japanese Attitudes to Physical
standards of hygiene. It is
considered unforgivable to Contact and Sex
get soap or shampoo in a Members of the same sex are
bathtub; washing belongs to physically at ease with each
the shower area (see p111). other, and the atmosphere
At one time, eating while in single­sex public baths is
walking and on local trains and relaxed. Between the sexes,
buses was frowned upon. Such however, public contact is more
constraints have become more limited than in the West.
relaxed, though some older Couples hold hands in public,
people would still never engage The Japanese wear gauze masks to prevent but kissing is not so common;
in such practices. Eating on the spread of colds even a kiss on the cheek might
longer train trips is fine. cause embarrassment. In
Bodily emissions are Bowing general, sex is seen as free
considered very rude, though The formal greeting in Tokyo from shame, but something
anything drawn inward is is a bow, its depth reflecting to be indulged in discreetly.
acceptable. Thus, sniffing is the relative status of the Homosexual activity is less
fine, but blowing your nose in participants. However, visitors openly accepted than in many
public is reviled. Gauze face rarely need to bow – a hand­ Western nations (see p158).
masks are worn in public to shake is fine. In department Sadly, the sleazier side of the
prevent the spread of colds. stores, restaurants, and hotels, sex trade includes schoolgirl
bows are part of the service, prostitution, and pornography
and they can be ignored or met is widely sold in convenience
The Hierarchy
with a brief smile. If you wish to stores. Nonetheless, everyday
Respect for seniors is bow, hold your arms and back life is relatively sanitized, and
fundamental to Japanese straight, and bend from the it is important to remember
society. Seniors include not only waist, pausing for a moment that geisha and most bar
parents, grandparents, company at the low point. hostesses are not prostitutes.
bosses, and teachers, but even
those a year or two senior in
school or employment. The
term sensei (teacher) is used as
a term of respect for those with
high professional status, such as
doctors. Many Japanese regard
the emperor as being at the
pinnacle of the social hierarchy
and show him great respect,
but stop short of veneration.
Social attitudes are reflected in
the Japanese language, which
has a special form of honorific
speech. This is vitally important
in many social situations to
indicate the speaker’s respect,
humility, and politeness. Bowing between business colleagues who are close in status to each other




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  161


shoes can be stored. other by the family name,
If no slippers are even if they are close friends,
provided, go in but they will happily call you by
stockinged feet. In your first name if you prefer.
Western­style hotels, the When speaking to or about
main part of the room is an adult, add “­san,” which
not raised above the stands for Mr., Mrs., or Ms., to
entrance, and so shoes their name – for instance,
can be worn by both Smith­san or John­san. For
guests and staff. Slippers babies and young girls, add
should be removed to “­chan,” for young boys “­kun.”
walk on tatami matting However, one should never
– go in stockinged feet. refer to oneself as “­san.”
Many restrooms, public
and private, have special
slippers inside the toilet Gift-Giving
area. Remove your own Gift­giving is an important
slippers outside before aspect of social etiquette in
stepping into the toilet Japan. Any trip means bringing
slippers, which are then home souvenirs for friends and
left behind upon exiting colleagues, usually something
Traditional footwear neatly lined up on racks the toilet area. edible. Small gifts may be
outside a temple exchanged at a first business
meeting, and if you visit
Etiquette at Temples Taxes and Tipping someone’s home, you should
and Shrines
A consumption tax of 8 percent buy a luxury food item or take
The atmosphere in Buddhist (planned to rise over the next a small gift from your home
temples and Shinto shrines few years) is paid by consumers country. Keep gifts small to
is casual, and there are no for goods and services. Shops avoid placing an obligation on
restrictions on clothing. Visitors and service providers include the recipient. Gifts are often not
should show respect and not be the tax in the prices shown. opened in front of the giver.
noisy, but there are few of the Other than for exceptional Note that it is regarded as
taboos found in some Buddhist service, there is no tipping in unlucky to give four of anything.
nations. If you enter buildings in Japan; indeed, an attempt at
a shrine or temple, except those tipping might even cause
with stone floors, leave your offense.
shoes at the entrance or carry
them with you. Plastic bags may Language
be provided for this, especially
if you can use a different exit. Tokyo is well signposted in
Some temples allow photo­ English, and it is not hard
graphy, some only without for visitors to find their way
flash, and others not at all. around. Many, especially
younger, Japanese do speak
at least a little English. It is
Shoes
not uncommon for English­ Box of cookies elegantly gift-wrapped
It is a serious mistake to wear speaking Japanese to offer in paper, then cloth
shoes indoors in all private help to what they perceive as Lining Up and
and many public buildings. the foreign visitor in distress.
The principle is that the However, do not expect too Jaywalking
clean interior should not be much English to be understood When waiting, such as for a
contaminated with dirt from the by taxi drivers, policemen, or train, people line up neatly.
outside. Always remove your station clerks. To get off a crowded train,
shoes if the area immediately gently push your way through.
beyond the entrance to a room If you are stuck and cannot
or building is at a higher level Japanese Names reach the door in time, call
than the entrance itself. Japanese names are given as out “orimasu” (“I’m getting
When you enter a Japanese family name followed by first off”) as you attempt to push
house or traditional restaurant, name. However, many Japanese your way toward the exit.
take off your shoes and put on automatically reverse this Jaywalking is heavily
slippers before stepping onto order when giving names to discouraged. Pedestrians in
the raised floor. Other people’s Westerners, so you may need Tokyo invariably wait for the
shoes will usually be evident, to check which is which. The crossing lights, even when
or there will be a rack in which Japanese generally call each there is no traffic coming.




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162  SUR VIV AL GUIDE


Personal Security and Health Natural Disasters
Each year, Japan experiences
Medical facilities and general hygiene standards are high more than 1,000 earthquakes
and crime rates in Tokyo are low, though pick pockets large enough to be felt; most
occasionally operate in crowds. Koban (manned police boxes) are nothing to worry about.
are found in every neighborhood, usually near the train Tremors are more noticeable
in tall buildings, which sway
station; their presence helps to keep crime down. Due to its markedly but usually have
vulnerable position at the juncture of several tectonic plates, mechanisms to absorb the
Japan is particularly prone to earth quakes and volcanic motion. In a larger earthquake,
eruptions, some of which cause extreme devastation. especially in an old building,
The country also lies in the path of typhoons, which can open the doors (to prevent
them from buckling and
wreak enormous damage.
jamming) and turn off any gas.
Do not rush outside, where
Police
debris may be falling, but
Japanese police are generally shelter under a reinforced
helpful. Those at the koban are doorway or a sturdy table.
accustomed to dispensing Don’t sleep close to heavy
directions, though their English furniture not securely fixed
may be limited. The police can to the wall or under air-
legally demand visitors to conditioning units. The Tokyo
produce their passport or Government has issued a useful
Zairyu Card (Residence Card) bilingual Earthquake Survival
(see p156), so keep yours with Manual, and the Japan
you at all times. Failure to do Meteorological Agency
so could result in arrest and provides early warnings.
23 days’ detention while the The peak months for
case is investigated. Under A uniformed Tokyo policeman typhoons are August and
questioning, which can last In an Emergency September. Typhoons bring
many hours, detainees will violent winds; the worst may
not have access to a lawyer. Emergency calls are free. The cause flooding or landslides.
Interviews are not recorded. Tokyo police operates a help Active volcanoes are usually
line for foreign visitors; your fenced off so that no one can
hotel, embassy, or consulate get close, but toxic fumes
What to Be Aware Of
may also be able to help. The occasionally seep from the
Tokyo is regarded as a safe Tokyo Metropolitan Health and crater or its vicinity; look out
city, though episodes of bag- Medical Information Center for warning notices.
snatching and pickpocketing offers information in English, In the event of a natural
sometimes occur in crowded Spanish, Chinese, Korean, and disaster, you can reassure
areas, on trains, and at airports. It Thai. In case of language your loved ones that you are
is generally safe to walk around difficulties regarding medical safe by calling the Disaster
at night, but take extra care in matters, contact the Emergency Emergency Message Dial.
the Roppongi district. There have Medical Translation Services.
been reports of drinks being The Japan Helpline is a great
spiked with drugs that leave the 24-hour resource in English. Lost and Stolen Property
victim unconscious for hours, The Tokyo English Life Line The Japanese are very honest
allowing fraudulent billings to offers free counseling, while people, and found items
be made to their credit card. Befrienders Worldwide is a are often handed in to the
Due to the nuclear accident suicide prevention hotline. authorities, so it pays to
that occured in 2011, follow
government advice by not
going within a 49-mile (80-km)
radius of the Fukushima Daiichi
nuclear facility.
Women should take sensible
precautions regarding where
they go and with whom. Be
wary of men outside train
stations who try to start a
conversation – it may lead
to an unwanted advance.
These can usually be shaken
off with a simple “no.” Schoolchildren practicing an earthquake drill




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  163


Minor Hazards
report the loss of any item at English­speaking staff and
the nearest koban or with the deal with 24­hour emergencies. Despite the nuclear accident
transport authorities. For items Medicines are dispensed in Fukushima in 2011, there
lost on the JR network, call the at pharmacies, though there should be no danger to food
number given in the Directory may be problems with fullfilling and water in Tokyo and
on page 175. Lost or stolen a prescription from abroad. surrounding regions. Tap water
passports should be reported Western brands are available, is drinkable, and food poisoning
at the local police station, which if expensive, at international is rare thanks to good hygiene
will provide an official report. pharmacies, such as Tokyo’s standards. An upset stomach
This can be presented at the American Pharmacy. Contact is likely to be due only to a
embassy or consulate in order lenses can be obtained with change in diet.
to obtain a replacement or relative ease, and Western­ Raw seafood in sushi and
emergency passport. brand lens solutions are sashimi is not a risk. Though
reasonably priced. The extremely toxic if inexpertly
prevalence of mosquitoes in prepared, fugu (blowfish) is
Hospitals and the warmer months calls for safe, since all the fish served
Pharmacies insect repellents and soothing in restaurants and on sale in
Medical facilities in Japan are lotions for mosquito bites, supermarkets is prepared by
excellent, but you will be sold in pharmacies. Mu­hi licensed chefs, who undergo
expected to pay the cost of is a popular brand. Chinese the most rigorous training.
any treatment you receive. herbal medicine is widely Eat raw meat only in good
If you are sick, go to a hospital; available. restaurants. Insecticides are
for minor problems, try widely used, so always wash
consulting a pharmacist first. or peel fruit before eating.
If you need to find a hospital
or another medical institution, Travel and Health
contact the Tokyo Metropolitan
Health and Medical Information Insurance
Center, which has multilingual It is advisable to take out
staff. The AMDA (Asian Medical comprehensive travel insurance
Doctors Association) Inter­ in advance of the trip. It is
national Medical Information important to confirm that it
Center offers free medical covers medical costs, since
consultations over the tele­ these can be very high in Japan.
phone in eight languages and Insurance should also cover
a free telephone interpreter such areas as loss of belongings,
service. The hospitals listed theft, cancellation of journey,
in the Directory below have Illuminated pharmacy sign and repatriation.
DIRECTORY
In an Emergency Tokyo English Life Line Japan Meteorological St. Luke’s
Tel (03) 5774­0992. Agency International
Befrienders Open 9am–11pm. ∑ jma.go.jp/jma/en/ Hospital
Worldwide Activities/eew.html 9­1 Akashicho,
Tel (03) 3207­5040. Tokyo Metropolitan Chuo­ku, Tokyo.
Health and Medical
Emergency Information Center Hospitals and Tel (03) 3541­5151.
Medical Translation Tel (03) 5285­8181. Pharmacies Seibo
Services Open 9am–8pm daily. International
Tel (03) 5285­8185. AMDA International Catholic Hospital
Open 5–8pm daily (from Natural Disasters Medical Information
9am Sat, Sun, & pub hols). Center 2­5­1 Naka­Ochiai,
Earthquake Survival Tel (03) 5285­8088. Shinjuku­ku,
Fire/Ambulance Manual Tokyo.
Tel 119 (English rarely ∑ metro.tokyo.jp/ American Pharmacy Tel (03) 3951­1111.
spoken). B1 Marunouchi Bldg,
ENGLISH/POLICY/ Tokyo Medical
Japan Helpline security.htm 2­4­1 Marunouchi, and Surgical
Tel 0570­000­911. Disaster Emergency Chiyoda­ku, Tokyo. Clinic
Tel (03) 5220­7716.
Police Message Dial 32 Shiba­koen
Tel 110 (emergencies; Tel 171 (voice message). Japanese Red Cross Building 2F, 3­4­30
English rarely spoken). ∑ ntt­east.co.jp/ Medical Center Shiba­koen,
Tel (03) 3501­0110 en/saigai/voice171/ 4­1­22 Hiroo, Shibuya­ku, Minato­ku, Tokyo.
(English helpline). index.html Tokyo. Tel (03) 3400­1311. Tel (03) 3436­3028.




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Banking and Currency on arrival to cover any
immediate needs. It is always
For visitors used to easy and instant cash access 24 hours a wise to obtain cash before
day, Japan’s banking system can prove frustrating. Credit traveling anywhere outside of
cards are accepted at a growing number of shops (including Japan’s major cities.
convenience stores), restaurants, most hotels, and major Some banks and post offices
railway stations, but Japan is still largely a cash society. Make also offer money transfer
facilities.
sure you always have some cash at hand. Payments can be
made using debit cards where the appropriate sign (such as
VISA or MasterCard) is displayed; however, cash withdrawals ATMs
using debit cards are possible only at a limited number of Automatic Teller Machines
ATMs. Personal checks are unknown. (ATMs) are easily available in
large urban areas throughout
Japan. However, many do not
Banks and Bureaux Bureaux de change are often take foreign credit or cash
de Change near major train stations. cards – for example, Cirrus,
Buying yen, exchanging At major international Maestro, Link, and Delta cash
traveler’s checks, and other airports, currency exchange cards are not widely accepted.
regular banking transactions counters may keep longer Most Japanese post offices
can be easily conducted via hours than banks; at Tokyo and all 7-Eleven stores (more
major Japanese banks, including International, for example, the than 17,000 in the Tokyo area)
Bank of Tokyo-Mitsubishi UFJ, counter is open from 6:30am have ATMs that will accept
Sumitomo Mitsui, and Mizuho to 11pm. Rates at airports are VISA, MasterCard, American
Bank. Some foreign banks, not very competitive, though. Express, Maestro, Plus, Cirrus,
such as Citibank, offer a Even leading city banks may and JCB cards; they also provide
similar range of services. be unfamiliar with foreign an English menu for users.
Most banks open 9am–3pm currency other than dollars, so ATMs at 7-Eleven stores are
on weekdays and are closed be prepared for bank tellers to
on weekends and national check with their superiors if
holidays. The exchange rate is they have not experienced such
posted at about 10am for US notes before. In city centers,
dollars; later, for other staff may speak English, and
currencies. Banks usually forms are often supplied in
exchange currency between English; if not, staff will show
10am and 3pm; some city you where to write. Transactions
banks, however, offer this are relatively simple but may be
service from as early as 9am. time-consuming. Always carry
It is possible to change cash your passport with you.
and traveler’s checks at banks, It is illegal for public
major hotels (which offer the transportation, stores, and
same rates as banks), main restaurants to accept payment
post offices, ryokan, and in foreign currencies, so you
some city department stores. will need some Japanese yen ATM typically found in a post office
DIRECTORY
Banks Sumitomo Mitsui Credit and MasterCard
1-1-2 Yurakucho, Debit Cards Tel 00531-11-3886
Bank of Tokyo- Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. (free international
Mitsubishi UFJ Tel (03) 3501-1111. American Express assistance).
2-7-1 Marunouchi, Lost cards: ∑ mastercard.com
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. ATMs Tel 0120-020-120
Tel (03) 3240-1111. (toll-free; English VISA
Tel 00531-44-0022
Citibank Shibuya Post Office language after (24-hour assistance).
B1-2F Kawase Building, 1-12-3 Shibuya, Japanese). ∑ visa.com
3-17-5 Shinjuku, Tokyo. Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. ∑ americanexpress. ∑ visa.com/atmlocator
Tel (03) 5462-5000. Tel (03) 5469-9823. com
∑ citibank.co.jp/en Toyko Central Post Diners Club
Mizuho Bank Office Lost cards:
1-1-5 Uchi-saiwai-cho, 2-7-2 Marunouchi, Tel 0120-074-024
Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. (toll-free nationwide).
Tel (03) 3596-1111. Tel (03) 3217-5231. ∑ dinersclub.com





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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  165

Credit and Debit Cards
open 24 hours. The operating American Express, and VISA
hours of post office ATMs vary: International credit cards, such checks are the most widely
those at major post offices are as American Express, VISA, recognized.
typically open 7am–11pm MasterCard, and Diners Club, If your credit or debit card
Monday to Friday, with shorter are generally accepted by gets stolen or lost, contact
hours at week ends; those at leading banks, hotels, and your bank to cancel the card.
minor post offices are usually stores in larger cities in Japan.
open 9am–4pm during the They can be used to buy train Currency
week and closed at weekends. tickets at major JR stations, and
The ATMs at the main post they are also accepted by some The Japanese currency is the yen
offices – Tokyo Central Post taxis. Note that there may be a (¥). Coins come in denominations
Office, Shibuya Post Office, and charge to use a credit card. of ¥1, ¥5, ¥10, ¥50, ¥100, and
Shinjuku (see p167) – are open Obtaining cash with credit ¥500. Bank notes are printed in
around-the-clock (except 8pm– or debit cards is not always denominations of ¥1,000, ¥2,000
midnight on Sundays and possible – even if a machine (very rare), ¥5,000, and ¥10,000.
public holidays). Some Citibank displays the sticker for your Japanese bank notes (but not
ATMs are open 24 hours, card, it may have a problem coins) can be reconverted to
though Citibank branches are reading it (see also ATMs). foreign currency at the point of
not so numerous in the Tokyo Traveler’s checks are usually departure; the amount is limited
area. Visit the Citibank website accepted only in major city only by the funds carried by the
for a list of locations. banks and large hotels. Travelex, airport exchange center.

Bank Notes
Each of the bank note denominations
carries a portrait of a historical figure,
such as the novelist Ichiyo Higuchi on
the ¥5,000 note.




¥10,000 note





¥5,000 note





¥2,000 note



Coins ¥1,000 note
The denominations of Japan’s coins are all marked
in Arabic numerals, except for the ¥5. On the reverse
side of most of the coins is a design of a flower or
¥500 coin plant design; on the ¥10 it is a temple.







¥100 coin ¥50 coin ¥10 coin ¥5 coin ¥1 coin




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166  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Communications and Media

Tokyo basks in the image of being a high-tech megalopolis,
and there is some truth in this – the Japanese were
accessing the Internet on their mobile phones long
before anyone else. Just about everyone has mobile
phones, while Internet cafés and free Wi-Fi hotspots
are widely available. Public phones are rare; they can
be found in shopping areas and around stations, though
not all are suitable for making international calls. English-
language newspapers and magazines are readily
available, and the postal system is fast and efficient.
A green public telephone, used for making
International and Local are 11pm–8am daily, though local calls only
Telephone Calls Public Telephones
the rates between 7 and 11pm
Some public phones accept are also off­peak. Public phones are found in
international credit cards as The charge for a local call is ¥10 train stations, often outside
well as phone cards. The call per minute. Use small coins or convenience stores, and
will be routed via NTT phone cards in a public phone; on some busy streets,
Communications, unless you unused coins will be returned to although they are now less
purchase a phone card issued you. In this guide, the area code common, with the advent of
by one of the other major is given in parentheses; omit it if mobile phones. Green public
telecom companies offering calling from within the area. phones, which accept coins
international calls, such as and phone cards, are for
KDDI (KDDI Super World Card) Mobile Phones domestic calls only. For inter­
and SoftBank Telecom (Super national calls, use the gray
Moshi Moshi Card). Each Some foreign mobile phones public phones, which have a
company has a toll­free number may work in Japan if the operator button for English­language
for information on charges and is an inbound roaming partner information and another for
services. To make a call, dial the of SoftBank Mobile or NTT the emergency services. They
relevant company’s access code, DoCoMo. Check with your ser­ also have digital jacks for data
then the country code, area vice provider before traveling. transmission. Old­style pink
code (minus the initial zero), As an alternative, visitors can phones, occasionally found in
and the desired number. rent a mobile phone from restaurants, are for local calls
All major hotels in Tokyo offer companies like Rentafone and accept ¥10 coins only.
international direct dialing, but Japan. Payment is typically
there may be a surcharge for made by credit card. Prepaid Useful Dialing Codes
calls from your room. NTT phones (though not prepaid
Communications and KDDI offer SIM cards) are also available And Numbers
international collect calls; simply from such mobile operators • Domestic directory
dial the relevant access code, as KDDI and SoftBank. The enquiries, 104
then ask the operator to place a operator’s conditions may • Domestic operator, 100
collect call. The cheapest times differ, but a passport as ID and • International directory
for making international calls a hotel address usually suffice. enquiries, 0051
Use these codes after the
international access codes to
dial the following countries:
Australia 61, Brazil 55,
Canada 1, China 86, France
33, Germany 49, Hong Kong
852, India 91, Indonesia 62,
Ireland 353, Israel 972, Italy
39, Republic of Korea 82,
Malaysia 60, Netherlands 31,
New Zealand 64, Peru 51,
Philippines 63, Russia 7,
Singapore 65, Spain 34,
Sweden 46, Switzerland 41,
Taiwan 886, Thailand 66,
A phonecard dispenser and a gray public telephone that provides local and international United Kingdom 44, and US 1.
dialing access




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  167

Internet and Email Several door-to-door delivery bookstores, and in some
Internet cafés are not as plentiful services (takkyubin), including convenience stores. These
as might be expected, but access Yamato and Sagawa- Kyubin, newspapers, and The Mainichi
to the Internet is slowly on the offer prompt and efficient Daily News and The Asahi
rise. Kinko’s provides Internet services through out Japan. Shimbun are also available
access at its branches through- Small packages can be sent online. The best publication
out the city. Some computer via these courier services for business and technology
stores, including Apple, also from convenience stores and is the Nikkei Weekly.
provide free Internet access. other shops. International Imported magazines can be
For a list of Wi-Fi hotspots, courier services include found at foreign-language book-
check www.freespot.com/ FedEx and DHL. stores. Free English-language
users/map-e/map_tokyo.html; magazines are also easily avail-
however, bear in mind that able. In particular, Metropolis and
many of the entries may be Newspapers the Tokyo Weekender have exten-
and Magazines
out of date. The lobbies of sive listings and classified ads.
large hotels sometimes have Two English-language daily Metropolis is also available online
free Wi-Fi access, as do many newspapers – The Japan Times, (http://metropolisjapan.com);
cafés, pubs, convenience and The Japan News (formerly another useful website is Japan
stores, and most of the The Daily Yomiuri) – are sold at Today (www.japantoday.com).
Tokyo subway stations. kiosks in train stations, major
hotels, foreign-language
Television and Radio
Postal Services The state public broadcaster,
Post offices (yubin-kyoku) and NHK, has two terrestrial and two
mailboxes can be identified satellite TV channels. Its 7pm
by a character looking like and 9pm news bulletins (7pm
the letter “T” with an extra on weekends) can be heard in
horizontal bar across the top. English on bilingual TV stations,
Main post offices are usually which are often available in
open 9am–5pm on weekdays hotels. Other networks include
and 9am–12:30pm on Nippon TV, TBS, Fuji TV, and TV
Saturdays. Smaller post offices Asahi. Check Metropolis for
may open 9am–4:30pm on English-language programs.
weekdays, but they are often Overseas networks are widely
closed on weekends. Stamps available via cable or satellite.
are also sold at convenience NHK Radio airs news and
stores and larger hotels. classical music on both
All post offices provide AM and FM. There are several
EMS express mail services. commercial radio stations in
For urgent mail, the Tokyo Tokyo: J-Wave (www.j-wave.
Central Post Office and co.jp) and Inter FM (www.
Shinjuku Post Office both Selection of local newspapers at a Tokyo interfm.co.jp) offer some
provide all-night counters. newsstand programs in English.
DIRECTORY
International and Tel 0041 (international Internet and Email FedEx
Local Telephone call service access code). Tel 0120-00-3200
Calls Tel 0066-11 & Kinko’s (toll-free).
∑ kinkos. co.jp
KDDI 0088-41 (toll-free info). ∑ fedex.com/jp_
english
Tel 001 (access code). ∑ tm.softbank.jp/ Apple
Tel 0057 (toll-free info). english 3-5-12 Ginza, Chuo-ku. Shinjuku Post Office
∑ kddi.com Tel (03) 5159-8200. 1-8-8 Nishi-Shinjuku,
Mobile Phones ∑ apple.com/jp Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo.
NTT Communications Tel (03) 3340-9512.
Tel 0033 (access code). NTT DoCoMo Postal Services
Tel 0120 54-0033 + 8# ∑ nttdocomo.com Toyko Central Post
(toll-free info). DHL Office
∑ 506506.ntt.com/ Rentafone Japan Tel 0120-39-2580, then 0. 2-7-2 Marunouchi,
english/service/p_card ∑ rentafone ∑ dhl.co.jp/en.html Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo.
japan.com Tel (03) 3217-5231
SoftBank Telecom EMS (domestic mail);
Tel 0061 (domestic long- SoftBank Mobile ∑ post.japanpost.jp/ (03) 3284-9540
distance access code). ∑ mb.softbank.jp/en int/ems/index_en.html (international mail).



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168  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Tokyo is served by flights from across the (see p174). There are direct bus and train
world, most of them arriving at Narita connections from Narita to Haneda. The
Airport. Although Narita is a long way from Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO)
the city center, this gives visitors their first website (see p159) provides useful travel
introduction to the prompt and highly information for visitors, including lists of
efficient public transportation system that travel agents that can make reservations
makes traveling so easy in Japan. Tokyo can and sell travel tickets and Rail Pass vouchers
be used as the hub for travel to other parts (see p175). In Tokyo, the JNTO has a tourist
of the country, either by air from Haneda information center that provides travel
Airport or by shinkansen bullet train information in English (see p159).

Arriving by Air 10 hours) and New Zealand Getting to and from
All major international airlines (12 hours). JAL and United Narita Airport
fly to Tokyo. Most flights land are the main carriers between Narita Airport, 35 miles (60 km)
at Narita Airport, formally Tokyo and North America, northeast of the center of
known as Tokyo New but Northwest, American, Tokyo, has two terminals
International Airport. Tokyo’s Delta, and ANA also link Tokyo linked by a free shuttle bus.
other airport, Haneda (also, with several US cities. There is a Tourist Information
confusingly, referred to as Prices are highest over the Center in the arrival lobby of
Tokyo International Airport) major holiday periods of New each terminal.
is served by a growing number Year and Golden Week, and in Holders of a Japan Rail Pass
of international flights and the summer (July and August). Exchange Order (see p175)
is also the major hub for should have it validated at the
domestic flights. The two On Arrival Japan Railways (JR) counter;
airports are linked by an they can then use it to travel
efficient network of train, bus, Immigration forms are handed into Tokyo by JR train. Airport
and helicopter services. out on the plane in advance Limousine Buses are frequent
of landing. Immigration and have drop-offs at most
procedures tend to go more major hotels within Tokyo,
Tickets and Fares smoothly for the Japanese. Yokohama, and other nearby
Japan Airlines (JAL) and All All foreigners entering the cities. Traveling to Tokyo by taxi
Nippon Airways (ANA) are country are photographed will cost at least ¥22,000.
Japan’s main airlines. They fly and fingerprinted on arrival. The most convenient fast
nonstop between London and With both immigration and link to Tokyo is the Narita
Tokyo, along with Virgin and customs, a neat appearance Express (N’EX) train, which
British Airways. The flying time and politeness help. For more departs from beneath the
is around 12 hours. Qantas, Air details regarding customs, see terminal buildings and travels
New Zealand, and JAL operate p157. Both Narita and Haneda nonstop to Tokyo Station in
nonstop flights between Tokyo airports are well signposted 53 minutes, and then on to
and Australia (flying time: about in English. Shinjuku, Shinagawa, Shibuya,
and Ikebukuro in the capital,
or to Yokohama and Ofuna.
You can use the Japan Rail
Pass on the N’EX, but you must
reserve a seat (free of charge)
at the ticket booth before
traveling. All signs and
announcements are in
Japanese and English.
Travelers without a Japan
Rail Pass can take the Keisei
Skyliner from the station
under the terminal buildings.
This train takes 36 minutes to
get to Nippori Station and 41
minutes to Ueno Station.
Local Keisei trains offer the
cheapest but slowest link
Check-in area of Tokyo New International Airport, at Narita between Narita and Tokyo.




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  169


city and beyond. You can also
have your luggage picked up
for delivery to the airport,
though this has to be ordered
two days in advance. Companies
offering this service operate
counters at Narita and Haneda
airports. Among the service
providers are JAL ABC and ANA
Sky Porter. The cost is about
¥2,000 for one large bag.

On Departure
Entrance to Terminal 2, Haneda Airport It can take up to 90 minutes to
reach Narita Airport from central
Getting to and from Domestic Flights Tokyo, so set out about 4 hours
Haneda Airport
An extensive flight network run before your departure time. If
Lying just to the south of central by JAL and ANA covers Japan’s traveling by the Narita Express,
Tokyo, Haneda Airport has four main islands and many of reserve seats well in advance,
three terminals, only one of the smaller ones, too. For trips especially during Golden Week
which handles international up to around 350 miles (600 and the New Year holiday. All
flights. The terminals are linked km), shinkansen bullet trains trains stop at Terminal 2 first,
by a free shuttle bus and an (see p174) may be faster and and terminate at Terminal 1.
underground walkway. more convenient than planes; The departure lobbies of both
Limousine Buses run to in addition, there is often little terminals are on the 4th floor.
several destinations in central difference in price. Domestic Many flights from Terminal 2
Tokyo, including major hotels. flights have both economy are boarded at the satellite
The Keikyu private train line seats and, at an extra cost, a terminal, reached via a shuttle
(see p175) departs from “Super Seat” service, which train. Other flights require
underneath the airport and combines first and business shuttle bus connections in
connects with the JR network class. The domestic low-cost order to board the plane.
at Shinagawa Station (about airline Skymark connects
11 minutes). The Tokyo Monorail Haneda and Narita to various
(see p171) links Haneda with cities in Hokkaido and Kyushu,
Hamamatsucho Station, on the and to Naha in Okinawa.
JR Yamanote Line (about 20
minutes). It is pretty cramped Luggage Delivery
at rush hour, but it gives a
fascinating view over parts of It is possible to have your
Tokyo Bay. A taxi into Tokyo luggage delivered from the Luxurious N’EX, traveling from Narita
will cost at least ¥5,000. airports to any address in the Airport to central Tokyo

DIRECTORY
Tickets and Fares UK: Limousine Domestic Flights
Tel (0845) 7-747-700. Buses
Air New Zealand ∑ uk.jal.com/ukl/en/ ∑ limousinebus.co. Skymark
∑ airnewzealand.com Tel 050-3116-7370.
USA and Canada: jp/en ∑ skymark.jp/en
All Nippon Airways Tel 1-800 525 3663. Narita Airport
(ANA) ∑ ar.jal.com/arl/en/ Luggage Delivery
Tel 0120-029-222 (toll-free). ∑ narita-airport.jp/en/
∑ ana.co.jp Qantas index.html ANA Sky Porter
∑ qantas.com.au ∑ ana.co.jp/eng/amc/
British Airways Narita Express reference/tameru/
∑ britishairways.com United (N’EX) other/delivery/
∑ united.com ∑ jreast.co.jp/e/nex skyporter.html
Japan Airlines (JAL) Virgin
Tel 0120-25-5931 (toll- Tourist Information JAL ABC
free; international ∑ virgin-atlantic.com Center ∑ jalabc.com/english
reservations); or Narita Airport Terminal 1.
0120-25-5971 (toll-free; Tel (0476) 30-3383.
domestic reservations). Keisei Skyliner Terminal 2.
∑ jal.co.jp/en/ ∑ keisei.co.jp Tel (0476) 34-6251.





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170  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Getting Around Tokyo If you travel often by bus, you
can buy a prepaid card from
Equipped to handle a daytime population swelling to well the driver or from bus sales
over 10 million every weekday, Tokyo’s public transportation offices around Tokyo.
system is remarkably diverse. Besides using the very efficient
subway system, visitors can explore the city by bus, Monorail
overground train (notably the Japan Railways Yamanote and The Tokyo Monorail starts at
Chuo lines, and the private railway lines), tram, monorail, Haneda Airport, skirts along
boat, taxi, bicycle, or even rickshaw. Buses are good for areas Tokyo Bay, and terminates at
not reached by subway or train, though the lack of English Hamamatsucho Station (on
signage can pose a difficulty. Taxis are numerous and can be the JR Yamanote Line). The
easily hired for short trips within the city. Maps are available journey takes 20 minutes.
at the Tourist Information Center (see p159). Though technically not
a monorail, the driverless
Yurikamome Line offers
fabulous views as it crosses the
Rainbow Bridge over Tokyo Bay.
You can buy a one-day Open
Pass (¥800) for unlimited travel
on this line; a combined ticket
with the Water Bus costs ¥900.

Water Bus
The most popular water bus
(suijo basu) route is the Tokyo
Cruise Ship Company, running
Sumida River Water Bus,
between Asakusa and the
“Himiko” water bus speeding along the skyscraper-lined Sumida River Hama-rikyu Gardens. Other
routes ply to various points
Green Travel Buses along the waterfront. All
Travel in Tokyo is pretty Bus companies such as services depart from Hinode
green. The superb public Keio, Toei Bus, and Tokyu Pier, close to Hinode Station
transportation network means Bus connect many parts (Yurikamome Line) and
that this is the one metropolis of Tokyo. Buses are much a 10-minute walk from
in the world where you would slower than trains and, with Hamamatsucho JR Station
feel least inclined to drive your no information in English, (Yamanote Line). Boats run
own car. Very efficient mass difficult to use for people approximately every half-hour.
transportation – albeit who do not read Japanese.
sometimes very crowded – is Buses in central Tokyo have Trams
the rule in this city, and this a flat-fare system. As you
results in a very small carbon enter, place your fare in the Tokyo’s two tramlines are
footprint per passenger mile. box beside the driver. Suica somewhat removed from
As indicated by the huge and Pasmo cards (see p173) most tourist haunts. The
numbers of bikes parked on can be used on most forms Arakawa Line (see p75) trundles
city streets, the bicycle is an of public transportation. through the backstreets of
extremely popular way of
getting around parts of Tokyo,
even though there are no cycle
paths to speak of. In fact, for
distances of up to around 6
miles (10 km), the bicycle is the
fastest way of getting around.
Eco-friendly velotaxis can be
seen in the more touristy
parts of Tokyo. In such areas,
rickshaws are also frequently an
option for those who prefer a
more leisurely and traditional
form of transportation. An
increasing number of regular
taxis now use hybrid cars. Visitors on a city tour of Tokyo in an open-topped sightseeing bus




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  171


northern Tokyo. The stations Taxi fares start at ¥740 for the to cycle on side walks if they
at either end have subway first mile (2 km), then cost around are available. The Muji store
connections, and the tram ¥100 for each additional 1,640 ft in Yurakucho, close to the
can also be boarded at (500 m). Fares increase by about Imperial Palace, rents bicycles
Otsuka, where it crosses 30 percent between 11pm and (¥525/day; ¥1,050 holidays
the JR Yamanote Line. 5am. Tipping is not required. and weekends).
In the west of the city, the
Setagaya Line links Sangenjaya Rickshaws Walking
(Denentoshi Line) and
Shimotakaido (Keio Line). The rickshaw (jinriki-sha) is a Walking is an excellent way
popular, if expensive, vehicle to explore parts of Tokyo.
for sightseeing. Look for the The City of Tokyo Walking
Car Rental rickshaw men, in their happi Tours (in various languages)
Renting a car in Tokyo is not coats and shorts, in front of are free and depart from
recommended; few roads are the Kaminarimon Gate in Shinjuku. The city also arranges
signposted in English, and Asakusa. They will pull two tours that focus on such
although rental cars usually slender Japanese people at a themes as sumo, traditional
feature sat nav systems, the time, but they may ask bigger- gardens, the tea ceremony,
on-screen text is in Japanese. built foreigners to ride solo. and architecture. Each tour
If you wish to explore Japan lasts about three hours and
by car, head out of Tokyo by costs ¥650–3,540.
train and rent a vehicle in a
smaller town. The Japan
Automobile Federation (JAF) Finding an Address
offers details about car rental Only the main thoroughfares
companies such as Nippon in Tokyo have street names.
Rent-a-Car, Toyota Rent-a-Car, In an address – for example,
and Nissan Rent-a-Car. 2-3-4 Otemachi – the first
A ride on an old-fashioned rickshaw number refers to the chome,
or main block. The second
Taxis number indicates a smaller
Cycling
Taxis can be hailed on major block of buildings within the
thoroughfares and found at Cycling is a popular way of chome. The last is the number
large hotels and at railway covering short distances of a yet smaller block of
stations. A red light in the around Tokyo. Most streets buildings. There is no logical
front window indicates have no sidewalks, so cars, order to this system. Officers
availability. Few taxi drivers bikes, and pedestrians at police boxes are used to
speak English, so have your essentially share the same helping people find their
destination written in Japanese. space. It is perfectly permissible destinations.
DIRECTORY
Buses Water Bus Nippon Cycling
Rent-a-Car
Keio Tokyo Cruise Muji
∑ keio-bus.com/bus/ Ship Company Tel 0800-500-0919 Yurakucho Building
index.html (Japanese) ∑ suijobus.co.jp (toll-free) or 3-8-3 Marunouchi,
(03) 3485-7196. Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo.
Toei Bus Trams ∑ nippon Tel (03) 5208-8241.
∑ kotsu.metro.tokyo. rentacar.co.jp/ ∑ mujiyurakucho.com/
jp/eng Arakawa Line service/general.html info/index.asp (Japanese)
Tokyu Bus ∑ kotsu.metro. Nissan Walking
∑ tokyubus.co.jp tokyo.jp/eng/ Rent-a-Car
(Japanese) services/streetcar.html Tel 0120-00-4123 City of Tokyo Walking
Setagaya Line (toll-free). Tours
Monorail ∑ gotokyo.org/en/
∑ setagaya-line.com ∑ nissan-rentacar.com
Tokyo Monorail (Japanese) (Japanese) tourists/guideservice/
guideservice/index.
∑ tokyo-monorail. Toyota html
co.jp/english Car Rental Rent-a-Car
Yurikamome Japan Tel 0070-8000-10000
Line Automobile (toll-free)
∑ yurikamome.co. Federation (JAF) or (03) 5954-8008.
jp/en/ ∑ jaf.or.jp/e ∑ rent.toyota.co.jp/en




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172  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Using Trains in Tokyo

The fastest way of getting around Tokyo is by train. The
various systems that make up Tokyo’s train network – Toei
Subway and Tokyo Metro lines, overground Japan Railways
(JR) lines, and a number of private lines – are clean, efficient,
and punctual. Some of Tokyo’s huge stations can be daunting,
but the system is safe and fairly straightforward to negotiate,
with color-coded train lines and maps, directional arrows, and
bilingual signs. Trains run 5am–midnight daily; on some lines,
trains run approximately every 5 minutes at peak times. Avoid
rush hour (8–9am and 6–8pm) if possible, especially if you are
carrying luggage or traveling with small children. Well-designed and comfortable interior
of a metro car
The private railway lines the street-level entrance to
generally run from hubs along the subway. Besides being
the Yamanote Line to other color-coded, each subway
points in Tokyo and beyond. line is designated a letter (G
The most useful private railway for the Ginza Line, for example),
lines for visitors are the Keihin and each station is assigned
Electric Express Railway (from a number. Hence, Shibuya,
Shinagawa to Haneda Airport) the western terminal of the
and the Odakyu Electric Ginza Line, is G-01 (see also
Railway (from Shinjuku to Back Endpaper). Metro maps in
Odawara and Hakone). There English are available at all major
are also the Rinkai Line and train and metro stations, tourist
Yurikamome, both of which hotels, and the TIC (see p169).
can be used to reach Odaiba.
For more on private railway
lines, see page 174. Routes and Fares
Uniformed subway staff assisting train For an online route planner,
commuters visit the Jorudan website.
Subway Network On both JR and subway lines,
Railway Network
Tokyo’s subway network directions to various platforms
The Japan Railways’ (JR) consists of the Tokyo Metro are indicated with appropriate
Yamanote Line forms a loop (nine lines) and Toei Subway color codes; sometimes the
encircling most of central Tokyo. (four lines) systems. Tokyo Metro distance is given in meters.
Many of its stations act as hubs, and Toei Subway have different Prominent signs in Japanese
linking with long-distance JR symbols (a white “M” on a blue and English give the name of
lines, suburban private rail lines, background and a green fan- the station, as well as the next
and subway stations. Four other shaped symbol respectively), and previous stations on the
JR lines run through the city. The but they share the same subway line. Inside many trains, there
Sobu Line (yellow) cuts east– sign (a blue train on its track), are bilingual (or quadrilingual)
west across the center of the which is usually prominent at indicators above the doors
loop, from Shinjuku to Akihabara
and then farther eastward. Next
to it is the express Chuo Line
(orange), linking Tokyo JR Station
with Shinjuku and the western
suburbs. The Keihin Tohoku Line
(turquoise) runs north–south
along the eastern side of the
Yamanote Loop. The Saikyo Line
(green) runs parallel with the
Yamanote Line between Osaki
and Ikebukuro before extending
north beyond Tokyo to Saitama
Prefecture. These JR lines offer
fascinating above-ground
glimpses of the metropolis and
its suburbs. For more on JR trains
beyond Tokyo, see pages 174–5. Metro platform with prominent signs displaying station names




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TR A VEL INFORM A TION  173


showing the name of the next for free. Some stations have
station. On some trains, route route maps showing the fares
maps and the current position and place names in Roman
are displayed on screens above script. If you are unsure or
the exit doors. Announcements cannot work out the exact fare
may also be made in English to your destination, buy the
before arrival at the next station. cheapest ticket available and
Tickets are dispensed from pay the difference when you
automatic vending machines, arrive. There are fare adjustment
usually located close to the machines by the exit gates: you
entrance gates at each station. insert your ticket, the amount
Most accept both bank notes due is indicated, you pay the
and coins; they also dispense difference in fare, and a new Subway turnstile at entry and exit points
change. Electronic touch-screen ticket is dispensed. at a train station
vending machines have For those who intend to do
instructions in English. a lot of travel on the subway, Smart CARD System
To access the platform, feed the Toei One-Day Economy Suica and Pasmo are inter-
the ticket into the slot in the Pass (Toei marguto kippu) is operable smart cards that can
automatic ticket gate. Retrieve a good option. It costs ¥700 be used for virtually all forms of
your ticket and retain it until and offers unlimited use of public transportation in Tokyo
your final destination, as you subways, city buses, and the and surrounding areas. They
will need it when you exit. Arakawa tram. The Tokyo cost ¥2,000, including a ¥500
Fares are charged according Tour Ticket (¥1,590) allows refundable deposit. Suica cards
to distance traveled, starting at unlimited use for one day on can be bought at JR stations,
¥160 (¥170 on Toei lines), with JR trains within the 23 wards and Pasco cards at Tokyo Metro
children aged 6 to 11 charged of Tokyo, subway lines, city and Toei Subway stations, where
half-fares; children under 6 ride buses, and the Arakawa tram. they can subsequently be
charged in ¥1,000 increments.
The cards can also be used
for making purchases at many
stores around town, as well as
at vending machines and
station baggage lockers.
Hold your card over the sensor
at the ticket barrier; an acoustic
signal will tell you that the card
has been registered and the
minimum fare deducted; the
balance (if any) is deducted
on exit at your destination.
DIRECTORY
Subway Network
Toei Subway
Strips of yellow tiles on the floor marking the routes to the ticket barriers ∑ kotsu.metro.tokyo.jp
Tokyo Metro
Commuter Culture ∑ tokyometro.jp
Commuters packed into trains are a common sight morning and Routes and Fares
evening at Tokyo’s major train stations. High urban land prices
force families to look farther out of the city for affordable housing. Jorudan
A commute of at least an hour each way is practically the ∑ jorudan.co.jp/english
standard. The majority of commuters are men, since they still Tokyo Tour Ticket
tend to be the prime earners in most families. The commute ∑ jreast.co.jp
effectively removes them from family life – they leave before the
children get up, come back after they are in bed, and collapse on Smart CARD System
weekends with fatigue. The other major group on the trains is
unmarried younger women (after marriage, women are often Pasmo
expected to stay home and raise the children). An entire industry ∑ pasmo.co.jp/en
has grown up around these commuters: dozens of magazines
are produced for killing time, and stand-up restaurants offer Suica
cheap meals to those with a long ride ahead. ∑ jreast.co.jp/e/pass/suica.
html





172-173_EW_Tokyo.indd 173 12/09/16 11:29 am

174  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Traveling Beyond Tokyo Private Railway Lines
Private train lines, which tend to
With roads often clogged with traffic, trains are the best be cheaper than JR, also operate
way of exploring Tokyo and the surrounding area. Japan’s express trains, some of which try
rail system leads the world in terms of safety, efficiency, and to rival the shinkansen for luxury.
comfort. The city and surrounding area are served by a The Odakyu Railway (from
bewildering complexity of lines. In addition to the Japan Shinjuku) runs the luxury
Romancecar service to the
Railways (JR) trains, there are many private railway companies tourist area of Hakone; it also
serving suburban areas. For many destinations, such as Nikko, has trains to Enoshima, on the
travelers have a choice of lines. Fares on private lines tend Shonan coast, close to Kamakura.
to be cheaper than on JR trains. Even in the most rural areas, Tobu Railway operates the
the names of stations are given in Roman script. fastest and cheapest route to
Nikko from Asakusa. Take the
Tokyu Railway (from Shibuya)
is legendary. There are five if you are going to Yokohama’s
shinkansen lines serving Tokyo. port area or the city’s Chinatown.
The Tokaido Line runs south Other private lines include
to Nagoya, Kyoto, and Osaka Seibu Railway (destinations
(continuing as the Sanyo Line include the mountainous area
to Hiroshima and Fukuoka). The of Chichibu), Keisei Railway (to
Tohoku Line runs north via Sendai Narita), and Keikyu (Yokohama
and Morioka to Aomori. The Joetsu and Yokosuka).
Line serves Niigata. In addition,
there are shinkansen lines to
Nagano and Yamagata. The old Station Signs and
Facilities
Nagano Line has been extended,
and passengers can now travel Tokyo’s Shinjuku Station (see
on the Hokuriku Shinkansen to p65) is the world’s busiest, and
Kanazawa as well. All shinkansen several others – including Tokyo
People buying tickets at Shinjuku JR Station services start from Tokyo Station. JR Station – are vast warrens
Many Tokaido Line trains can also built on several levels. Finding
The Railway Network be boarded at Shinagawa. Trains a particular line or exit during
The main operator in the country on the Tohoku, Joetsu, Hokuriku, rush hour can be intimidating
is the Japan Railways Group (JR), and Yamagata shinkansen for newcomers with heavy
which includes all the shinkansen lines stop briefly at Ueno. baggage. If you can, find out
super expresses (bullet trains) and Announcements in English and which named or numbered
a nation wide network of almost clear signs make the shinkansen exit is best for your destination
17,000 miles (27,350 km) of an appealing form of transporta- before arriving at one of the
tracks. JR is divided into regional tion, often more convenient major stations.
groups, and operations in Tokyo than flying, though there is Shinkansen lines are clearly
and the surrounding area are run little room for large suitcases. marked, and signs for other lines
by JR East. Many private railway It is advisable to reserve a are color-coded. The yellow
lines link smaller communities seat, especially during a holiday bobbled tracks on the floor
in more remote regions. period, as the non-reserved are intended to help visually
carriages can get very crowded. impaired people navigate,
The Shinkansen:
Bullet Train
The first “bullet train,” as the shin­
kansen was quickly nicknamed
by the media, drew out of Tokyo
Station in 1964, the year of the
Tokyo Olympics. Symbolic of
Japan’s economic recovery and
future drive, it became, and re -
mains, a source of national pride.
Shinkansen are no longer the
world’s fastest trains, but their
efficiency, as proved by the
punctuality of the long-distance
journeys (an average of within
six seconds of the scheduled
time was recorded in 2003), Aerodynamic nose of the fabled shinkansen, or “bullet train”




174-175_EW_Tokyo.indd 174 12/09/16 11:29 am

TR A VEL INFORM A TION  175


DIRECTORY
The Railway Network/
Private Railway Lines
JR East
Tel (03) 3423-0111 (English info).
∑ jreast.co.jp/e
Keikyu
∑ keikyu.co.jp
Keisei Railway
∑ keisei.co.jp
Odakyu Railway
∑ odakyu.jp/english/
Ticket barriers for the Tobu Railway at Tobu Asakusa Station
Seibu Railway
The Japan Rail Pass ∑ seibu-group.co.jp/railways/
but the tracks do not make it tourist/english/index.html
easy for those pulling suitcases In a country with some of the
with wheels. Escalators are world’s highest train fares, the Tobu Railway
readily available for commuters. Japan Rail Pass is a wonderful ∑ tobu.co.jp/foreign/tobu.html
Note that many trains, deal. Specially devised for Tokyu Railway
especially the shinkansen, stop tourists, the pass is not for sale ∑ tokyu.co.jp/global/index.
only briefly in order to maintain inside Japan and must be html
their timetables. Thus, travelers purchased from an agent
are encouraged to line up on abroad before your visit. Rail passes
some platforms. Floor markings The pass gives unlimited travel Japan Rail Pass
on the platform indicate where on all JR lines and affiliated ∑ japanrailpass.net
the train doors will open; buses, including the N’EX (see
however, these are written in p168) between Narita Airport JR East Rail Pass
Japanese, so they can be and Tokyo, city-center JR trains ∑ jreast.co.jp/e/eastpass/
difficult for most visitors (including the Yamanote Line),
to decipher. and shinkansen,
On trains with except Nozomi and for the actual Japan Rail Pass
reserved seats, such Mizuho trains. Also at designated JR Travel Service
as the shinkansen included is the ferry Centers in Japan, including
and the N’EX, the to the island of Narita Airport and major train
car number is the Miyajima, near stations. When you get your
first of the two Hiroshima. Subways pass, you must specify the date
numbers that The Japan Rail Pass and private railways on which you wish to start
appear on the are not included. You using it; the date has to be
ticket. This is followed by may have to reserve a seat on within three months of the issue
a letter, which indicates the long-distance trains, but the of the exchange order. After the
actual seat. Again, this reservation will be free. start date of the pass, the cost
information is in Japanese. You can choose a 7-day cannot be refunded, neither can
Stations in major tourist (¥28,300), 14-day (¥45,100), or the exchange order or pass be
areas have baggage lockers 21-day (¥57,700) pass; there replaced if lost or stolen.
and information booths where are also more expensive passes
staff may speak English. that allow travel in Green Cars
(equivalent to first class). If you Other Passes
intend to do much traveling by There are also other, less
On-Board Facilities train, the pass will save you expensive regional rail passes.
On shinkansen and other long- money. If you want to explore The JR East Rail Pass, which can
distance routes, trolleys serving Japan by train for more than 21 be bought both outside Japan
snacks, beverages, bento lunch- days, or prefer to break up your and within the country, covers
boxes, and edible omiyage (local travels by staying in one place for Honshu, northeast of Tokyo. A
specialties) are wheeled up and more than a few days, consider 5-day pass costs ¥20,000 (children
down the length of the train. buying more than one pass. ¥14,000) and a 10-day pass costs
There is often a choice of JNTO offices (see p159) have a ¥44,800 (children ¥22,400). Tobu
Western- (sit-down) and full list of rail-pass agents in your Railway issues two-day and four-
Japanese-style (squat) toilets. country. The agent will issue a day passes for Nikko. Odakyu
Wash rooms and toilets may be Japan Rail Pass Exchange Order, offers various passes to Kamakura
electronically operated, requiring usually at a price based on the and the Hakone area. Seibu
a hand to be passed in front of a day’s rate of exchange with the issues passes for the popular
panel for flushing, or use a lever. yen. This voucher is exchanged spots of Chichibu and Kawagoe.




174-175_EW_Tokyo.indd 175 12/09/16 11:29 am

176  T OK Y O STREE T FINDER

TOKYO STREET FINDER

Tokyo is notoriously hard for visitors listed in the key below. When map
to find their way around, due to the references are given, the first number
scarcity of street names and the complex tells you which Street Finder map to turn
numbering sys tem for buildings. The Tokyo to, and the letter and number that follow
sights covered in this guide, plus Tokyo refer to the grid reference. The map below
hotels (see pp112–15), restaurants (see shows the area of Tokyo covered by the six
pp130–37), and many of the city’s key Street Finder maps. The Street Finder index
landmarks are plotted on the maps on the opposite lists street names, buildings, and
following pages. Trans portation points are stations. For a map of the Tokyo subway
also marked, and indicated by the symbols system, see the inside back cover.






EXPRESSWAY NO. 1




Bunkyo-ku Northern
Tokyo
Taito-ku
Sumida-
Shinjuku-ku ku
Chiyoda-ku
SHINJUKU-DORI
EXPRESSWAY N O . 4
Central Tokyo
Western Tokyo
AOYAMA-DORI Minato-ku
Shibuya-ku Chuo-ku Koto-ku
EXPR E S S WA Y NO.1






0 kilometers 2
0 miles 1
Key
Major sight Hospital
Other sight Police station
Other building Temple
Subway station Shrine
Railway station Church Scale of Maps 1–6
0 meters 500
Long distance bus station Other rail line
Monorail station JR rail line 0 yards 500
River boat Expressway
Tourist Information Pedestrian street






176-179_EW_Tokyo.indd 176 12/09/16 11:29 am

T OK Y O STREE T FINDER  177


Street Finder Index

A D H Imperial Palace
Plaza 5 B1
Aioi-zaka 3 B4 Daien-ji Temple 3 B1 Hakusan Subway Inari-zaka 2 E4
& 3 C4 Daiichi Keihin 5 A5 Station 3 A1 Inaricho Subway
Akasaka 2 E4 Daimon Subway Hakusan-dori 3 A1 Station 4 D3
Akasaka Subway Station 5 A4 & 3 B5 Inokashira-dori 1 A4
Station 2 E4 Diet Building 2 F3 Hama-rikyu Iriya Subway Station 4 D2
Akasaka-dori 2 E4 Dogen-zaka 1 A5 Gardens 5 B4 Iwamotocho
Akasaka-mitsuke Drum Museum 4 E3 Hamacho Subway Subway Station 4 D5
Station 4 E5
Subway Station 2 F3 E
Akebonobashi Hamamatsucho J
Train Station 5 B4
Subway Station 2 D1 East Garden of the
Hanatsubaki-dori 5 B3 Jimbocho 3 B4
Akihabara Subway Imperial Palace 3 A5 Hanzo-bori 2 F2 Jimbocho Subway
Station 4 D4 continues 5 A1 Hanzomon Subway Station 3 B4
Akihabara Train East Shinjuku 1 B1 Station 2 F2 Jingu Stadium 2 D4
4 D5
Station 3 C4 Edo-dori & 4 E4 Harajuku Train 1 B4 Jingumae 1 C4

Ameyoko Market
3 C3
EXPRESSWAY NO. 1 Aoyama-itchome 2 D4 continues & 6 E2 Harumi 6 D5 K 5 C3
Station
4 F2
Eitai-dori
5 C1
Subway Station
5 C5
Harumi Futo Park
Kabuki-za Theater

Aoyama Cemetery
5 C3
1 C5
Aoyama-dori 2 D4 Embassy of Canada 2 E4 Harumi-dori & 6 D4 Kabukicho 1 B1

Bunkyo-ku Northern & 2 D4 Embassy of Ireland 2 F2 Hatchobori Subway Kachidoki 5 C4
Tokyo Embassy of the UK 2 F2 Kachidoki Subway
Asakusa 4 E2 Station 6 D2 Station 6 D4
Embassy of the
Taito-ku Asakusa-bashi Hatchobori Train Kaede-dori 3 B4
Train Station 4 D4 United States 2 F4 Station 6 D2
Sumida- Kaigan-dori 5 B5
Shinjuku-ku ku Asakusa Subway Etchujima Train Heisei-dori 5 C3 Kajibashi-dori 6 D2
Station 6 E3 Hibiya 5 B2
Chiyoda-ku Station 4 E3 Expressway Loop Kaminarimon-dori 4 E3
& 4 F3 Hibiya Park 5 A2 Kamiyacho Subway
SHINJUKU-DORI
Line 5 A5 Hibiya Subway
EXPRESSWAY N O . 4 Asakusa-dori 4 D3 Station 2 F5
Central Tokyo Awajicho Subway Expressway No.1 3 C5 Station 5 B2 Kanda 3 B4
Western Tokyo Station 3 C5 continues 5 B5 Hibiya-dori 5 A5 Kanda Myojin Shrine 3 C4
Expressway No.3 1 C5 Hie Jinja Shrine 2 F3 Kanda River 1 A1
AOYAMA-DORI Minato-ku Bakuro-yokoyama 4 D5 Expressway No.4 1 B3 Higashi-nihonbashi 4 D5 Kanda Train Station 3 C5
Chuo-ku
Shibuya-ku Koto-ku B continues 2 E5 Higashi-dori 1 A2 Kanda Subway
Station
2 F3
continues
Subway Station
3 C5
EXPR E S S WA Y NO.1 Bakurocho Train 4 D5 Expressway No.5 3 A4 Higashi-shinjuku 1 C1 Kappabashi-dori 3 A3
Subway Station
4 E3
Subway Station
Expressway No.6
4 E4
3 B4
Karamaebashi-dori
Station
4 F3
continues
Hinode Train
Kasuga Subway
Bank of Japan
5 C1
4 F5
Station
Expressway No.7
5 B5
Station
Bunka Center dori
3 A3
Bunka Gakuen 1 C1 Expressway No.9 5 C1 Hitotsugi-dori 2 E3 Kasuga-dori & 4 D3
6 E2
continues
Hon-komagome

Costume Museum 1 A2 & 6 F3 Subway Station 3 A1 Kasumigaseki 5 A2
Bunkamura 1 A5 Hongo 3 B3 Kasumigaseki
Bunkamura-dori 1 A5 F Hongo-sanchome Subway Station 5 A2
Bunkyo Ward Fureai-dori 1 A2 Subway Station 3 B3 Kayabacho Subway
Office 3 A3 Hongo-dori 3 A1 Station 6 D1
G Honjo-azumabashi Keio Hospital 2 D2
C Subway Station 4 F3 Keisei-Ueno Train
Gaien-Higashi-dori 2 D1
Chiyoda Ward Gaien-Nishi-dori 1 C4 I Station 3 C3
Office 3 A5 Gaienmae Subway Keiyo-dori 4 F5
Chuo Ward Office 5 C3 Station 2 D4 Ichigaya Subway Kikukawa Subway
Chuo-dori 3 C4 Gijido-dori 1 A2 Station 2 E1 Station 4 F5
continues 3 C5 Ginza 5 B3 Ichigaya Train Kita-dori 1 A1
continues 5 C1 Ginza Subway Station 2 E1 Kitanomaru
Park
& 5 C2 Station 5 B2 Icho-Namiki 2 D3 Kiyosubashi-dori 3 A5
Iidabashi Subway
4 D5
Chuo-dori, Ginza-itchome Station 3 A4 continues 6 E1
Shinjuku 1 A1 Subway Station 5 C2
Imperial Palace 5 A1 Kiyosumi-dori 4 F3
176-179_EW_Tokyo.indd 177 12/09/16 11:29 am

178  T OK Y O STREE T FINDER


Kiyosumi-dori Mitokaido 4 F3 Otemachi Subway Shinanomachi
continues 4 F4 Mitsukoshimae Station 5 B1 Train Station 2 D3
continues 6 D4 Subway Station 5 C1 Shinjuku 1 A1
& 6 F1 Mitsume-dori 4 F4 P Shinjuku Central Park 1 A1
Kodenmacho Miyamasu-zaka 1 B5 Plaza-dori 1 A2 Shinjuku-gyoemmae
Subway Station 4 D5 Monzen-nakacho Prime Minister’s Subway Station 1 C2
Koen-dori 1 A2 Subway Station 6 E2 Official Residence 2 F4 Shinjuku-nishiguchi
Koishikawa Botanical Morishita Subway Subway Station 1 B1
Garden 3 A2 Station 6 F1 R Shinjuku-sanchome
Koishikawa Korakuen Subway Station 1 B1
Garden 3 A3 N Roppongi 2 E5 Shinjuku Subway
Roppongi Hills 2 E5
Kojimachi Subway Station 1 B2
Nagatacho Subway
Station 2 F2 Roppongi Subway Shinjuku Train
Station 2 F3
Kojunsha-dori 5 B3 Naka-okachimachi Station 2 E5 Station 1 B1
Kokkai-dori 5 A2 Subway Station 4 D3 Roppongi-dori 1 C5 Shinjuku Ward
Kokkai-gijidomae Nakamise-dori 4 F3 Ryogoku 4 E5 Office 1 B1
Subway Station 2 F3 Nakasendo-dori 3 A1 Ryogoku Train Shinjuku-dori 1 C2
Kokuritsu Kyogijo Namiyoke Inari Station 4 E5 Shinjuku Gyoen
Subway Station 1 C3 Garden 1 C2
Shrine 5 C3 S
Kokusai-dori 4 E1 Shinobazu-dori 3 B1
National Cancer
continues 4 E3 Sakura-dori 5 C1 Shinsen Subway
Center 5 C3
Kokusai-dori, New Shimbashi 5 B3 Sakurabashi-dori 5 C2 Station 1 A5
Shinjuku 1 A2 Nezu Subway Station 3 B2 Sakurada-bori 2 F2 Shintomicho Subway
Kondo-zaka 1 B5 Nichigin-dori 5 C1 Sakurada-dori 2 F5 Station 5 C3
Korakuen Subway Nihon TV-dori 2 E2 continues 5 A3 Shiodome 5 B3
Station 3 A3 Nihonbashi 5 C1 Sakuradamon Subway Shiodome Subway
Koshu-Kaido 1 A2 Nihonbashi Station 5 A2 Station 5 B3
Kototoi-dori 3 B2 Subway Station 5 C1 Sangubashi Train Shitamachi Museum 3 C3
Kotto-dori 1 C5 Station 1 A3 Shitamachi Museum
Kudanshita Subway Nijubashimae Seibu-shinjuku Annex 3 C1
Station 3 A5 Subway Station 5 B1 Train Station 1 B1 Shoheibashi-dori 3 C4
Kuramae Ningyocho Subway Sendagaya 1 C3 Shokuan-dori 1 C1
Subway Station 4 E4 Station 6 D1 Sendagaya Train Shoto 1 A5
Kuyakusho-dori 1 B1 Ningyocho-dori 4 D5 Station 1 C3 Showa-dori 5 C2
6 D1
continues
Kyobashi Subway Nippori Train Sendagi 3 B1 Soto-bori 2 F1
Station 5 C2 Station 3 C1 Sendagi Subway Sotobori-dori 2 E3
Kyoo-ji Temple 3 C1 Station 3 B1 & 2 F1
Nishi-shinjuku
Senkawa-dori 3 A2 continues 3 A4
M Subway Station 1 A1 Senso-ji Temple 4 F2 & 5 A3
Nisseki-dori 2 D5
Marunouchi 5 B2 Shiba 5 A5 St. Luke’s Hospital 5 C3
Nogi Jinja Shrine 2 E4
Medical School Shiba Park 5 A4 Suehirocho
Nogizaka Subway
Hospital 3 B1 Shiba-Koen Subway Station 3 C4
Station 2 D4
Meidai-dori 3 B4 Subway Station 5 A5 Suidobashi Train
Meiji Shrine 1 B3 O Shibuya 1 B5 Station 3 A4
Meiji Treasure Shibuya Subway Suitengumae
House 1 B3 Ochanomizu Station 1 B5 Subway Station 6 D1
Meiji-dori 1 B2 Subway Station 3 B4 Shibuya Train Sumida Park 4 F2
continues 1 B3 Ochanomizu Train Station 1 B5 Sumida Ward Office 4 F3
& 1 B4 Station 3 B4 Shimbashi 5 A4 Sword Museum 1 A3
continues 4 F1 Ogawamachi Shimbashi Subway T
Meiji-jingumae Subway Station 3 B5 Station 5 B3
Subway Station 1 B4 Ogubashi-dori 3 C1 Shimbashi Train Taito Ward Office 4 D3
Minami-aoyama 1 C5 Okachimachi Station 5 B3 Takaracho Subway
Minami-dori 1 A2 Train Station 3 C3 Shin-nihonbashi Station 5 C2
Minami-shinjuku Ome-Kaido 1 A1 Train Station 5 C1 Takebashi Subway
Train Station 1 B2 Omotesando-dori 1 C4 Shin-ochanomizu Station 3 B5
Minato Ward Office 5 A4 Omotesando Subway Station 3 B4 Takeshiba 5 B5
Minowa Subway Subway Station 1 C5 Shin-Ohashi-dori 4 F5 Takeshita-dori 1 B4
Station 4 E1 Onarimon continues 6 D2 Tamachi Train Station 5 A5
Misuji-dori 2 E3 Subway Station 5 A4 Shin-okachimachi Tameike-sanno
Mita Subway Station 5 A5 Otakebashi-dori 4 D1 Subway Station 4 D3 Subway Station 2 F4
176-179_EW_Tokyo.indd 178 12/09/16 11:29 am

T OK Y O STREE T FINDER  179


Tawaramachi Tokyo Women’s continues 5 B1 Yasukuni Shrine 2 F1
Subway Station 4 E3 Medical College Uchisaiwaicho Yasukuni-dori 1 C1
Tenno-ji Temple 3 C1 Hospital 2 D1 Subway Station 5 A3 continues 2 E1
Tobu Asakusa Toranomon Hospital 2 F4 Ueno-okachimachi & 3 A5
Toranomon Subway Subway Station 3 C3
Train Station 4 F3 Yoshino-dori 4 F1
Station 5 A3 Ueno Park 3 C2
Tocho-dori 1 A2 Yotsuya-sanchome
Toyokawa Inari Ueno Subway
Tochomae Subway Subway Station 2 D2
Shrine 2 E3 Station 4 D2 Yotsuya Subway
Station 1 A2 Toyomi-cho 5 C5
Todaimae Subway Toyosu 6 E5 Ueno Train Station 4 D2 Station 2 E2
Uenohirokoji
Station 3 B2 Toyosu Park 6 E5 Subway Station 3 C3 Yotsuya Train Station 2 E2
Togo Shrine 1 B4 Toyosu Subway Uguisudani Train Yoyogi 1 A2
Togo-zaka 2 F2 Station 6 F4 Station 4 D2 Yoyogi Park 1 A4
1 B2
Yoyogi Train Station
Tokyo International Tsukiji 5 C3 Umamichi-dori 4 E1 Yoyogi-uehara
Forum 5 B2 Tsukiji Fish Market 5 C4 University of Tokyo 3 B3 Train Station 1 A4
Tokyo Medical Tsukiji Subway Ushigome-Chuo-dori 2 E1 Yoyogi-koen
Station 5 C3
College Hospital 1 A1 Subway Station 1 A4
Tokyo Metropolitan Tsukijishijo Subway W Yurakucho Train
Government station 5 C3 Station 5 B2
Tsukishima 6 D4 West Shinjuku 1 A1
Building 1 A2 Yushima 3 C4
Tsukishima Subway
Tokyo Railway Y Yushima Subway
Station 6 D3
Hospital 1 B2 Yaesu-dori 5 C1 Station 3 C3
Tokyo Subway U Yagen-zaka 2 E4 Yushima-zaka 3 B4
Station 5 C1 Uchibori-dori 2 F2 Yamate-dori 1 A4
Tokyo Tower 2 F5 & 2 F3 Yanagibashi Z
Tokyo Train continues 3 A5 Subway Station 4 E4 Zensho-en Temple 3 C1
Station 5 C1 & 5 A2 Yanaka 3 C1 Zojo-ji Temple 5 A4


































176-179_EW_Tokyo.indd 179 12/09/16 11:29 am

Myeongdong
Myeongdong Wakamatsu-
Wakamatsu-
CinemaKUYAKUS H O - DO RI
Higashi-
KUYAKUS H O - DO RI
Norimaki, Higashi- kawada
Norimaki,
kawada
shinjuku
shinjuku
Tonchang
Tonchang
340 m 340 m S H O K U A N - D O R I
S H O K U A N - D O R I
Bali An EIJI -D ORI
S O T O B O R I - D O R I
S H O K U A N - D O R I O T A K I B A S H I - D O R I Seibu- Seibu- YOCHOMACHI
S H O K U A N - D O R I
B U N K A C E N T E R D O R I
shinjuku
shinjuku
YOCHOMACHI
SHINJUKU-
SHINJUKU- Masuda Masudayaya Grand Grand MEIJI -D ORI GAIEN-HIGAS H I-DORI GAIEN-HIGAS H I-DORI ICHIGA USHIGOME- CHUO-DORI Chuo Line Chuo Line
Hotel
Hotel
ICHIGAYA-YA-
KUDAN-
Tokyo Women's Women's
Tokyo
KAGACHO
KU
KU NISHI- Green Plaza KABUKICHO Chariot Chariot B U N K A C E N T E R D O R I Medical Colleg KAGACHO S O T O B O R I - D O R I KUDAN-
Green Plaza
KABUKICHO
KITA
KITA
Medical College e
Toho
SHINJUKU Shinjuku Asia Toho Bali An Island Hospital Hospital Yushukan
Yushukan
NISHI-
SHINJUKU Shinjuku Asia
O T A K I B A S H I - D O R I
Island
Museum
Nishi- Nishi- Yokocho Cinema Citadines M Museum
Yokocho Citadines
USHIGOME- CHUO-DORI
O M E - K A I D O
shinjuku Mos Bur Mos Burgerger Gindaco Gindaco Central Central Best Wester
O M E - K A I D O
shinjuku
Best Western Shinjuku ASTINA Hoteln Shinjuku ASTINA Hotel
Shinjuku
ICHIGAYA
Tokyo Medical
Tokyo Medical Shinjuku- Shinjuku Golden Golden Nihon Buyo ICHIGAYA
Nihon Buyo
Shinjuku- Senkoen Kabukicho
Hanazono Shrine
College Hospital

nishiguchi
College Hospital Nomur Nomuraa nishiguchi Senkoen Kabukicho Gai Gai Hanazono Shrine Foundation Yasukuni

Yasukuni
Foundation

Y A S U K U N I - D O R I
Don Quixote
Shinjuku Nagi Ramen
Building Don Quixote Shinjuku Nagi Ramen b o r i Shrine Shrine
Building
TOMIHISACHO
ICHIGAYA-YA-
Akebonobashi
Island Island Kabuto Ward Office Shinjuku K TOMIHISACHO Akebonobashi ICHIGA S o t o - b o r i
Kabuto
Shinjuku Kuyakushomaeuyakushomae
Hilton Hilton Tower Tower Yasuda Yasuda Ward Office BlackholeBlackhole Capsule Hotel HONMURACHO Y A S U K U N I - D O R I Embassy of
HONMURACHO
Capsule Hotel
Embassy of
Kasai Kaijo
Tokyo Tokyo Kasai Kaijo Studio Alta Ichiga Ichigayaya S o t o - India India
K I TA - D O R I Mitsui Mitsui Building Shinjuku-sanchome Hachimangu
Studio Alta
K I TA - D O R I
Shinjuku-sanchome

Building
Hachimangu
Building
Y A S U K U N I - D O R I
Toriyoshi
Dai-Ichi Seimei Building Shinjuku SHINJUKU Isetan Isetan Toriyoshi
Dai-Ichi Seimei
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Sumitomo
Suehirotei
Building
Building Sumitomo Center Building SHINJUKU Suehirotei Y A S U K U N I - D O R I Y A S U K U N I - D O R I Ichigaya
Center Building
Ichigaya
Y A S U K U N I - D O R I
Shinjuku KinsmenKinsmen
Centur Century Hyatt Hotely Hyatt Hotel Nabe-z Nabe-zoo Marui Marugo Shinjuku Pit Inn AiiRO CAFE
Marui Marugo Pit Inn
CHUO-DORI
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Shinjuku Flags Café
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Station
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24 Kaikan
Plaza PLAZA-DORI
Fugu
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Tochomae Building HIGASHI-DORI PLAZA-DORI Union Union Fugu GoldGold T O G O
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K O S H U - K A I D O
Hotel Hotel Sekaido Sekaido Finger Finger SOTOBORI YONBANCHO
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Tokyo Metropolitan Shinjuku- YOTSUY T O G O - Z A K A
YOTSUYAA
Tokyo Metropolitan
gyoenmae
Government Building TOCHO-DORI TOCHO-DORI GIJIDO-DORI GIJIDO-DORI DORIS H U - K A I D O gyoenmae PARK PARK YONBANCHO - Z A K A
Government Building
K O
Monolith
Building DORI
Building HIGASHI-DORI
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Dept Storee
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Building
Curry
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ICHIBANCHO

S H I N J U K U - D O R I
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Curry Udon
SHINJUKU
MINAMI-DORI
Embassy of
Senkichi
Senkichi
Sunroute
Sunroute
Building
DAIKYOCHO
Shinjuku

Shinjuku Building Fuunji Fuunji Shinjuku MEIJI TV TV the UK the UK
Shinjuku
S H I N J U K U - D O R I
Washington
Washington Ramen Ramen Hanzomon
NISHI- E N - D O R I
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K O E N - D O R I
Yotsuya
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Park Hyatt Hotel Hotel Tokyo Railway Kinokuniya MEIJI-DORI S HINJUKU GYOEN Yotsuya
Park Hyatt
Tokyo Railway
SHINJUKU-
Embassy of
Hospital
Tokyo Tokyo Bunka Gakuen Hospital GARDEN SHINJUKU- Embassy of
Bunka Gakuen
GARDEN

Kojimachi
Costume Museum
New York Costume Museum Kinokuniya -DORI Kojimachi Ireland Ireland H a n z o - b o r i H a n z o - b o r i
New York
KU
Bar Bar Keio E N - H I G A S H I - D O R I KU KOJIMACHI
KOJIMACHI
Tenkkaippin
YOYOGI
St. Ignatius S H I N J U K U - D O R I
Tenkkaippin YOYOGI Yoyogi Yoyogi G A I E N - H I G A S H I - D O R I St. Ignatius S H I N J U K U - D O R I
Church
Church
Ramen Ramen WAKABA
WAKABA
Minami-
Tokyo Tokyo Minami- SENDAGA
SENDAGAYAYA
shinjuku
Opera City shinjuku
Opera City
Keio
New National Theater Hospital Hospital I KIOICHO
New National Theater
KIOICHO
Odakyu Line
Chuo Line
Sendagaya
120 m 120 m Chuo Line Sendagaya G A SHINANOMACHI HIRAKAWACHO
HIRAKAWACHO
SHINANOMACHI
National
N O . 4
Hotel Neww
Embassy of
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Theater
Museum E X P R E S S W A Y National Noh Kokuritsu- Shinanomachi Otani Otani South Africa Supreme Court
South Africa
Museum
E X P R E S S W A Y
National Noh
Shinanomachi
Supreme
Court
Theater
Theater
Kokuritsu-
UCHIBORI-DORI
S O T O B O R I - D O R I
Meiji Shrine ine
Meiji Shr kyogijo kyogijo
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 4
Treasure
Treasure
Sangubashi
Museum
Sangubashi Museum E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 4
Nagatacho
Nagatacho
SENDAGA Togu Palace National
SENDAGAYAYA
Togu Palace
National
(Akasaka Palace)
(Akasaka Palace) Diet Library
Diet Library
National
National
MEIJI JINGU
Toyokawawa
MEIJI JINGU
Akasaka-mitsuke
Stadium
Inari Shrineine
Inari Shr
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SHIBUY Meiji Shrine Stadium OUTER GARDENS MINA Toyoka Akasaka-mitsuke Building Diet
OUTER GARDENS
Meiji Shrine
MINA TO-TO-
Diet
Y A M A T E - D O R I YOYOGI Yamanote Line Yamanote Line MEI JI - DO RI Fonda de la G A I E N - N I S H I - D O R I G A I E N - N I S H I - D O R I Jingu Jingu I C H O - N A M I K KU AO Y A M A - D O R I Toraya Toraya HITOTSUGI-DORI HITOT
Y A M A T E - D O R I
NAGATACHOTACHO
NAGA
AO Y A M A - D O R I
KU
Building
KU
KU
Kokkai-
YOYOGI
Hie Jinja
Hie Jinja
gijidomae
M I S U J I - D O R I
MEI JI - DO RI
Shrine
Fonda de la
AKASAKA
Stadium
Embassy of
Minister's
Minister's
M I S U J I - D O R I R I - D O R I
Aoyama-
Official
YOYOGI Restaur Restaurant-Iant-I Togo Togo Madrug Madrugadaada Stadium AOYAMAAMA I C H O - N A M I K I Aoyama- Embassy of YA G EN-ZAKA AKASAKA Tameike- Prime Prime
Official
YOYOGI
Canada
Canada
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itchome
KITI-
Residence
Residence
KITI- I
AOY
Tameike-
JINGUMAE
Akasaka
PAR Harajuku Shrine Shrine JINGUMAE Akasaka sanno sanno
PAR KK
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3
YA G EN-ZAKA
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3
Design Festaesta
Design F
Galler Galleryy Nataraj Nataraj I N A RI-Z AKA I N A RI-Z AKA
A K A S A K A - D O R I
Yoyogi- Yoyogi- HARAJUKU Watar Watari Museumi Museum G A IE N -H I G A S
Harajuku TAKESHITA-DORI
TAKESHITA-DORI
HARAJUKU
B Flat Club
Toranomon
uehara uehara of Contempor Gaienmae B Flat Club Toranomon
of Contemporary Artary Art
Gaienmae
Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial
Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial G A IE N -H I G A S HI -D O R I A K A S A K A - D O R I Akasaka Kikunoi Hospital Hospital
Akasaka Kikunoi
Museum of Art
Museum of Art
AO Y A M A - D O R I
Akasaka YokoYoko
Yoyogi- Yoyogi- Meiji- Meiji- MINAMI- Akasaka
koen koen LaForet LaForet jingumae AOY AOYAMAAMA Nogi Nogi Hotel Hotel Embassy of
jingumae
Embassy of
Seiko-en Seiko-en Maisen Maisen MINAMI- HI -D O R I Shrine Shrine AKASAKA the United States
the United States
AKASAKA
I N O K A S H I R A - D O R I Fuji-Tor Fuji-Toriiii Kiddyland AO Y A M A - D O R I
I N O K A S H I R A - D O R I
Kiddyland
Teddy’s Biggerer
Olympia
Olympia Teddy’s Bigg Omotesando AOY AOYAMAAMA
Omotesando
M E IJ I- D OR I BurgersBurgers
Stadiums
Stadiums Oriental Oriental Hills Hills CEMETER
CEMETERYY
Bazaar
NHK Hall Uniqlo Uniqlo Bazaar OMOTESANDO-DORI Omotesando Ritz Car Ritz Carltonlton Suntor Suntoryy
NHK Hall
Tokyo
Nogizaka
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
MINAMI-
TOMIGAYAYA
TOMIGA INOKAS H IRA DORI Glamour IJ I- D OR I JINGUMAE Oak Omotesando Omotesando MINAMI- GAIEN-NISHI-DORI Nogizaka Tokyo Billboar Billboard Lived Live Hall Hall
Oak Omotesando
OMOTESANDO-DORI
JINNAN Glamour Hysteric JINGUMAE Building AOY AOYAMAAMA Tokyo Tokyo R O P P O N G I - D O R I Nobu Tokyo
Building
JINNAN
Hysteric
Nobu Tokyo
Midtown
INOKAS H IRA DORI
NHK NHK M E Crayon Crayon Midtown Roppongi- Embassy
Embassy
Roppongi-
Issey Miyakeake
Broadcasting Station House House Issey Miy National Art Hotel Hotel Itchome of Spain of Spain
Broadcasting Station
Itchome
GAIEN-NISHI-DORI
National Art Roppongi
TORANOMON
Eggman Eggman Celeb de Comme des Center Center Roppongi Satin Doll TORANOMON
Celeb de TomatoTomato
Satin Doll
Comme des
Sushi Gotoku Garcons Garcons Prada Prada Feria Feria
Sushi Gotoku
Spiral Spiral Aoyama Roppongi
Aoyama TsumoriTsumori
Roppongi
MINA TO-TO-
Building
Building Chisato Chisato
UDAGAWACHOWACHO
UDAGA Under Undercovercover MINA
Kamiyacho
Ghung Ghungrooroo Yohji Yohji Agave Agave TGI Fr TGI Fridaysidays Kamiyacho
KU
KITI-
KOEN-DORI Club Camelot
Club Camelot KITI- Yamamoto KU Ryugin Ryugin El Café Latino
Yamamoto
El Café Latino
Kanze Kanze Almond Almond
KOEN-DORI
Tokyu Hands
Hobgoblin
Nohgakudo
Nohgakudo Tokyu Hands Shibuy Shibuyaa AOY AOYAMAAMA Nezu Museum Lex Tokyo Red Carpet Deniz Deniz Hobgoblin
Nezu Museum
Lex Tokyo Red Carpet
Embassy of the
Roppongi
Tower Records Pink Cow
Mandar Mandarakeake Parco Parco Tower Records Pink Cow Inakaya Inakaya Roppongi Embassy of the
Blue Note
Netherlands
Club Quattroo
Club Quattr Karaok Karaoke-e- The Soul The Soul Blue Note STB139 Ishino Spa Netherlands
Ishino Spa
Humax Pavilion Buildingavilion Building
Tokyo
SHOTO Orchard Hall Tasu-Ichi Kan Kan Humax P Marui Jamam of Seoul of Seoul K O T T O - D O R I Tokyo Butagumi STB139 Roppongi VIVI
Roppongi VIVI
SHOTO Orchard Hall
Butagumi
Marui J
Tasu-Ichi
AZABUDAI
Capsule Hotel Axis
SHIBUYAA
Bunkamura Maruhan The Aldg The Aldgateate Dept Stor SHIBUY Karakur Karakurii Capsule Hotel Axis AZABUDAI
Dept Storee
Ushigoro
SHIBUY A-A-
K O T T O - D O R I
Museum
Museum
Pachink Pachinko Towero Tower CENTER GAI Seibu De Theater SHIBUY Ushigoro BarBlue BarBlue ROPPONGI Embassy of R A D A - D O R I SHIBA-
SHIBA-
ROPPONGI
Seibu Dept Storept Store
MIYAMASU- Theater
Villa BUNKAMURA- Super Super Roppong Philippines S W AY N O . 2
Bunkamura Maruhan CENTER GAI
Roppongii
Villa
KOEN
Sasashige
KU
Sasashige
Shibuy Shibuya Hotel ENa Hotel EN Giulia Giulia DORI Loft Loft MIYAMASU- Image Forum KU R O P P O N G I - D O R I Teppan-Yaki Deluxe Deluxe Hills Hills S A K U R A D A - D O R I KOEN
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
ZAKA
ZAKA
BUNKAMURA-
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Duo Music
Embassy of the
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Exchange Shibuya
Exchange
Hyatt Toho Cinema
NISHI- Café EightHyatt
NISHI- Café Eight
109
S A K A E - S A K A E - Womb Womb Kiraku Kiraku 109 Hotel Hotel Shibuya ZAKA ZAKA E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3 AZABU Le Bourguignon A S A H I - D O R I T V A S A H I - D O R I Tokyo Toho Cinema Philippines Embassy of Tokyo Tower
Tokyo
O-West Hall
O-West Hall
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3
Tokyo
D O R I
D O R I
AZABU
Tower
Shibuya
Russia
Russia
MARUYAMACHO Harlem DOGEN- DOGEN- Mark Mark Shokudo Azabu L’Estasi L’Estasi Hainan Jeefan E X P R E S
Azabu
Club
Club
City
City
Hainan Jeefan
Hobgob
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
MOTO-
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HIGASHI-
Cerulean
HIGASHI
Yamaga Honten
Capsule
Shokudo Liquid RoomLiquid Room
AZABU
Azabu-Juban
AZABU
Shinsen Shinsen Century Shibuya Capsule Yamaga Honten Tower Tower Shokudo 1.30 km AZABU Azabu-Juban AZABU
450 m
Century Shibuya
Kanetanaka-so
450 m 1.30 km
Kanetanaka-so
180-181_EW_Tokyo.indd 180 12/09/16 11:24 am

Myeongdong Wakamatsu-
Myeongdong
Wakamatsu-
Higashi-
CinemaKUYAKUS H O - DO RI
KUYAKUS H O - DO RI
Norimaki,
Norimaki, Higashi- kawada kawada
shinjuku
shinjuku
Tonchang
Tonchang
340 m 340 m S H O K U A N - D O R I
S H O K U A N - D O R I
Bali An EIJI -D ORI
S O T O B O R I - D O R I
S H O K U A N - D O R I O T A K I B A S H I - D O R I Seibu- Seibu- YOCHOMACHI
S H O K U A N - D O R I
B U N K A C E N T E R D O R I
shinjuku
shinjuku
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SHINJUKU-
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Hotel
ICHIGAYA-
Masudaya Grand
KUDAN-
KAGACHO
Tokyo Women's
KU NISHI- Green Plaza KABUKICHO Chariot Chariot B U N K A C E N T E R D O R I Tokyo Women's KAGACHO S O T O B O R I - D O R I KUDAN-
KU
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KITA
Medical College
KITA
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Medical College
Hospital
Toho
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SHINJUKU Shinjuku Asia Toho Bali An Island Hospital Yushukan
SHINJUKU Shinjuku Asia
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NISHI-
Island
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Museum
Nishi- Nishi- Yokocho Yokocho Citadines M Museum
Citadines
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Shinjuku- Senkoen Kabukicho
Hanazono Shrine
College Hospital
nishiguchi
Nomura

College Hospital Nomura nishiguchi Senkoen Kabukicho Gai Gai Hanazono Shrine Foundation Yasukuni


Foundation
Yasukuni
Y A S U K U N I - D O R I
Don Quixote
Shinjuku Nagi Ramen
Building
Building Don Quixote Shinjuku Nagi Ramen b o r i Shrine Shrine
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Shinjuku Kuyakushomae
Ward Office Blackhole
Hilton Hilton Tower Tower Yasuda Yasuda Ward Office Blackhole Capsule Hotel HONMURACHO Y A S U K U N I - D O R I Embassy of
HONMURACHO
Capsule Hotel
Embassy of
Kasai Kaijo
Tokyo Tokyo Kasai Kaijo Studio Studio Alta Alta Ichiga Ichigayaya S o t o - India India
K I TA - D O R I Mitsui Mitsui Building Shinjuku-sanchome Hachimangu
K I TA - D O R I
Shinjuku-sanchome

Building
Hachimangu
Y A S U K U N I - D O R I
Building
Toriyoshi
Dai-Ichi Seimei Building Shinjuku SHINJUKU Isetan Isetan Toriyoshi
Dai-Ichi Seimei
Shinjuku
Suehirotei
Building Sumitomo Center Building SHINJUKU Suehirotei Y A S U K U N I - D O R I Y A S U K U N I - D O R I Ichigaya
Sumitomo
Building
Ichigaya
Center Building
Y A S U K U N I - D O R I
Shinjuku KinsmenKinsmen
Century Hyatt Hotel
Century Hyatt Hotel Nabe-z Nabe-zoo Marui Marugo Shinjuku Pit Inn AiiRO CAFE
Marui Marugo Pit Inn
Ichigaya
CHUO-DORI
Shinjuku Flags Café
SHINJUKU
SHINJUKU CHUO-DORI Kadoya Kadoya Shinjuku Flags Café Hamaguri AiiRO CAFE Ichigaya TOGO TOGO
Hamaguri
CENTRAL PARK Keio Keio Hotel Hotel Station Disk Disk Gempin Bar 24 Kaikan PARK PARK U C H I B O R I - D O R I U C H I B O R I - D O R I
Station
CENTRAL PARK
Gempin Bar GBGB
Plaza PLAZA-DORI
24 Kaikan
Fugu Gold
Tochomae Building HIGASHI-DORI PLAZA-DORI Union Union Fugu Gold T O G O
Plaza
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K O S H U - K A I D O
Hotel Hotel Sekaido Sekaido Finger Finger SOTOBORI YONBANCHO
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Tokyo Metropolitan
Tokyo Metropolitan Shinjuku- YOTSUYA T O G O - Z A K A
YOTSUYA
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Government Building TOCHO-DORI TOCHO-DORI GIJIDO-DORI DORIS H U - K A I D O gyoenmae PARK PARK YONBANCHO - Z A K A
Government Building
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Building DORI
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Sagemonoya
NS
Dept Store
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Curry
Building
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Curry
GIJIDO-DORI

S H I N J U K U - D O R I
SHINJUKU MINAMI-DORI KDD KDD Curry Udon Hotel Hotel DAIKYOCHO S H I N J U K U - D O R I N I H O N T V - D O R I N I H O N T V - D O R I Nippon Nippon Embassy of
Curry Udon
SHINJUKU
MINAMI-DORI
Embassy of
Senkichi
Senkichi
Sunroute
Sunroute
Building
DAIKYOCHO
Shinjuku

Shinjuku Building Fuunji Fuunji Shinjuku MEIJI TV TV the UK the UK
Shinjuku
S H I N J U K U - D O R I
Washington Ramen Ramen Hanzomon
Washington
NISHI- E N - D O R I
S HINJUKU GYOEN
K O E N - D O R I
Hanzomon
Park Hyatt
Tokyo Railway
Park Hyatt Hotel Hotel Tokyo Railway Kinokuniya MEIJI-DORI S HINJUKU GYOEN Yotsuya Yotsuya
SHINJUKU-
Embassy of
Tokyo Tokyo Bunka Gakuen Hospital Hospital GARDEN SHINJUKU- Embassy of
GARDEN
Bunka Gakuen

Kojimachi
KU
Costume Museum
New York
New York Costume Museum Kinokuniya -DORI Kojimachi Ireland Ireland H a n z o - b o r i H a n z o - b o r i
Bar Bar Keio E N - H I G A S H I - D O R I KU KOJIMACHI
KOJIMACHI
Tenkkaippin
YOYOGI
St. Ignatius S H I N J U K U - D O R I
Church
Church
Tenkkaippin YOYOGI Yoyogi Yoyogi G A I E N - H I G A S H I - D O R I St. Ignatius S H I N J U K U - D O R I
Ramen Ramen WAKABA
WAKABA
Minami-
Tokyo Tokyo Minami- SENDAGA
SENDAGAYAYA
shinjuku
Opera City
Opera City shinjuku
Keio
Hospital I
New National Theater Hospital KIOICHO
New National Theater
KIOICHO
Odakyu Line
Chuo Line
HIRAKAWACHOWACHO
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Sendagaya
SHINANOMACHI
National
N O . 4
Theater
Embassy of
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E X P R E S S W A Y
Museum
Museum E X P R E S S W A Y National Noh Kokuritsu- Shinanomachi Otani Otani South South AfricaAfrica Supreme Court
Shinanomachi
National Noh
Supreme
Court
Theater
Theater
Kokuritsu-
UCHIBORI-DORI
S O T O B O R I - D O R I
Meiji Shrine
Meiji Shrine kyogijo kyogijo
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 4
Treasure
Treasure
Sangubashi Museum E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 4
Museum
Sangubashi
Nagatacho
Nagatacho
SENDAGA Togu P Togu Palacealace National
SENDAGAYAYA
National
(Akasaka P Diet Libr
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Diet Libraryary
National
National
Toyokawa
MEIJI JINGU
MEIJI JINGU
Toyokawa
Stadium
Akasaka-mitsuke
Inari Shrine
SHIBUY Meiji Shrine Stadium OUTER GARDENS MINA Inari Shrine Akasaka-mitsuke Building Diet
SHIBUY A-A-
OUTER GARDENS
Meiji Shrine
MINA TO-TO-
Diet
Y A M A T E - D O R I YOYOGI Yamanote Line Yamanote Line MEI JI - DO RI Fonda de la G A I E N - N I S H I - D O R I G A I E N - N I S H I - D O R I Jingu Jingu I C H O - N A M I K KU AO Y A M A - D O R I Toraya Toraya HITOTSUGI-DORI HITOTSUGI-
Y A M A T E - D O R I
NAGATACHOTACHO
NAGA
AO Y A M A - D O R I
KU
KU
Building
KU
Kokkai-
YOYOGI
Hie Jinja
Hie Jinja
gijidomae
M I S U J I - D O R I
MEI JI - DO RI
Shrine
Fonda de la
AKASAKA
Stadium
Madrugada
Minister's
Minister's
Embassy of
M I S U J I - D O R I R I - D O R I
Aoyama-
Restaurant-I
YOYOGI Restaurant-I Togo Togo Madrugada Stadium AOYAMAAMA I C H O - N A M I K I Aoyama- Embassy of YA G EN-ZAKA AKASAKA Tameike- Prime Prime
Canada
Official
Canada
YOYOGI
Official
itchome
KITI-
itchome
Residence
Residence
AOY
KITI- I
Tameike-
JINGUMAE
Akasaka
PAR Harajuku Shrine Shrine JINGUMAE Akasaka sanno sanno
PAR KK
YA G EN-ZAKA
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3
Design Festaesta
Design F
Galler Galleryy Nataraj Nataraj I N A RI-Z AKA I N A RI-Z AKA
A K A S A K A - D O R I
Yoyogi- HARAJUKU Watar Watari Museumi Museum G A IE N -H I G A S
Yoyogi-
Harajuku TAKESHITA-DORI
TAKESHITA-DORI
HARAJUKU
B Flat Club
uehara uehara of Contempor Gaienmae B Flat Club Toranomon
Toranomon
Gaienmae
of Contemporary Artary Art
Ukiyo-e Ota Memo G A IE N -H I G A S HI -D O R I A K A S A K A - D O R I Akasaka Kikunoi Hospital Hospital
Ukiyo-e Ota Memorialrial
Akasaka Kikunoi
Museum of Art Art
Museum of
AO Y A M A - D O R I
Akasaka YokoYoko
Yoyogi- Yoyogi- Meiji- Meiji- MINAMI- Akasaka
koen koen LaForet LaForet jingumae AOY AOYAMAAMA Nogi Nogi Hotel Hotel Embassy of
jingumae
Embassy of
Seiko-en Seiko-en Maisen Maisen MINAMI- HI -D O R I Shrine Shrine AKASAKA the United States
AKASAKA
the United States
I N O K A S H I R A - D O R I Fuji-Torii Kiddyland AO Y A M A - D O R I
I N O K A S H I R A - D O R I
Kiddyland
Fuji-Torii
Teddy’s Bigger
Omotesando
Olympia
Olympia Teddy’s Bigger Omotesando AOY AOYAMAAMA
M E IJ I- D OR I Burgers
Stadiums Oriental Oriental Hills Hills CEMETER
Stadiums
CEMETERYY
Bazaar
NHK Hall
NHK Hall Uniqlo Uniqlo Bazaar OMOTESANDO-DORI Omotesando Ritz Car Ritz Carltonlton Suntor Suntoryy
Tokyo
Nogizaka
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
MINAMI-
TOMIGA INOKAS H IRA DORI Glamour IJ I- D OR I Burgers JINGUMAE Oak Omotesando Omotesando MINAMI- GAIEN-NISHI-DORI Nogizaka Tokyo Billboar Billboard Lived Live Hall Hall
TOMIGAYAYA
Oak Omotesando
OMOTESANDO-DORI
AOYAMA
Building
JINNAN Glamour Hysteric JINGUMAE Building AOYAMA Tokyo Tokyo R O P P O N G I - D O R I Nobu T Nobu Tokyookyo
Hysteric
JINNAN
INOKAS H IRA DORI
Midtown
NHK NHK M E Crayon Crayon Midtown Roppongi- Embassy
Embassy
Roppongi-
Broadcasting Station
Broadcasting Station House House Issey Miyake National Hotel Hotel Itchome of Spain of Spain
Issey Miyake
National ArtArt
Itchome
GAIEN-NISHI-DORI
TORANOMON
Celeb de Tomato
Eggman Eggman Celeb de Tomato Comme des Center Center Roppong Roppongii Satin Doll TORANOMON
Satin Doll
Comme des
Sushi Gotoku Garcons Garcons Prada Prada Feria Feria
Sushi Gotoku
Spiral Spiral Aoyama Tsumori Roppongi
Aoyama Tsumori
Roppongi
Building
MINA TO-TO-
Building Chisato Chisato
UDAGAWACHOWACHO
UDAGA Undercover MINA
Undercover
Kamiyacho
Ghungroo Yohji Yohji Agave Agave TGI Fr TGI Fridaysidays Kamiyacho
Ghungroo
KU
KITI-
KOEN-DORI Club Camelot
Club Camelot KITI- Yamamoto KU Ryugin Ryugin El Café Latino
Yamamoto
El Café Latino
Kanze Kanze Almond Almond
KOEN-DORI
AOYAMA
Tokyu Hands
Nohgakudo Tokyu Hands Shibuya Shibuya AOYAMA Nezu Museum Lex Tok Lex Tokyo Red Carpetyo Red Carpet Deniz Deniz Hobgoblin
Nezu Museum
Nohgakudo
Hobgoblin
Tower Records Pink Cow
Roppongii
Embassy of the
Mandarake Parco Parco Tower Records Pink Cow Inakay Inakayaa Roppong Embassy of the
Mandarake
Blue Note
Club Quattro Karaoke- The Soul The Soul Blue Note STB139 Ishino Spa Nether Netherlandslands
Club Quattro Karaoke-
Ishino Spa
Humax Pavilion Building
Tokyo
SHOTO Orchard Hall Tasu-Ichi Kan Kan Humax Pavilion Building of Seoul of Seoul K O T T O - D O R I Tokyo Butagumi STB139 Roppong Roppongi VIVIi VIVI
Butagumi
SHOTO Orchard Hall
Marui J
Tasu-Ichi
Marui Jamam
AZABUDAI
The Aldgate
Capsule Hotel AxisAxis
Karakuri
SHIBUYAA
Dept Storee
Bunkamura Maruhan The Aldgate Dept Stor SHIBUY Karakuri Capsule Hotel AZABUDAI
SHIBUY A-
Museum
K O T T O - D O R I
Museum
Pachinko Tower CENTER GAI Seibu De Theater SHIBUY A- Ushigor Ushigoroo BarBlue BarBlue ROPPONGI Embassy of R A D A - D O R I SHIBA-
Pachinko Tower
ROPPONGI
SHIBA-
Seibu Dept Storept Store
Villa
Bunkamura Maruhan CENTER GAI
MIYAMASU- Theater
Villa BUNKAMURA- Super Super Roppong Philippines S W AY N O . 2
Roppongii
KOEN
KU
Sasashig
Shibuya Hotel EN Giulia DORI DORI Loft Loft MIYAMASU- Image Forum KU R O P P O N G I - D O R I Teppan-Y Sasashigee Deluxe Deluxe Hills Hills S A K U R A D A - D O R I KOEN
Shibuya Hotel EN Giulia
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
ZAKA
ZAKA
BUNKAMURA-
Teppan-Yakiaki
Duo Music
Embassy of the
Club Asia
Club Asia Duo Music Shibuya Excel KONNO- KONNO-Image Forum Chinese Chinese Grand Grand Embassy of the E X P R E S S W AY N O . 2
Exchange Shibuya Excel
Hyatt Toho Cinema
Exchange
NISHI- Café Eight
NISHI- Café EightHyatt
109
S A K A E - S A K A E - Womb Womb Kiraku Kiraku 109 Hotel Shibuya ZAKA ZAKA E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3 AZABU Le Bourguignon A S A H I - D O R I T V A S A H I - D O R I Tokyo Toho Cinema Philippines Embassy of Tokyo Tokyo
O-West Hall
Hotel
O-West Hall
Tokyo
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 3
D O R I
D O R I
Tower
Tower
AZABU
Russia
Shibuya
Russia
Azabu
MARUYAMACHO Harlem DOGEN- DOGEN- Mark Mark Shokudo Azabu L’Estasi L’Estasi Hainan J E X P R E S
Club
Club
City
City
Hainan Jeefaneefan
Hobgoblin Shibuya
R O P P O N G I - D O R I
MOTO-
Shokudo
MARUYAMACHO Harlem ZAKA ZAKA Cerulean Hobgoblin Shibuya Nagi R O P P O N G I - D O R I HIGASHI N I S S E K I - D O R I N I S S E K I - D O R I Shokudo Le Bourguignon T V MOTO- Shokudo HIGASHI- S A K U
Nagi
HIGASHI-
Cerulean
HIGASHI
Yamaga Honten
Shokudo Liquid Room
Capsule
AZABU
AZABU
Azabu-Juban
Shinsen Shinsen Century Shibuya Capsule Yamaga Honten Tower Tower Shokudo Liquid Room AZABU Azabu-Juban AZABU
450 m
Century Shibuya
Kanetanaka-so
1.30 km
450 m 1.30 km
Kanetanaka-so
180-181_EW_Tokyo.indd 181 12/09/16 11:24 am

MinowaMinowa
MINOWA
HONKOMAGOMEHONKOMAGOME Kyoo-ji TempleKyoo-ji Temple MINOWA



HIGASHI-
NipporiNippori O GUBASHI-DO RI HIGASHI-
NIPPORI
Asakura ChosoAsakura Choso NIPPORI KIYOKA W AKIYOKA W A
SENDAGISENDAGI MuseumMuseum O TA K E B A S H I - D O R I O TA K E B A S H I - D O R I U M A M I C H I - D O R I
SendagiSendagi Daien-jiDaien-ji Tenno-jiTenno-ji Yamanote Line T AITO-KUT AITO-KU
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I IsetatsuIsetatsu SasanoyukiSasanoyuki
O GUBASHI-DO RI
TempleTemple
TempleTemple
U M A M I C H I - D O R I
Yamanote Line
YANAKAYANAKA
HONGO-DORI
HONGO-DORI
HonkomagomeHonkomagome Zensho-enZensho-en CEMETERYCEMETERY S H O W A - D O R I S H O W A - D O R I RYUSENRYUSEN K O K U S A I - D O R I
TempleTemple
N A K A S E N D O - D O R I
N A K A S E N D O - D O R I
HAKUSANHAKUSAN YANAKAYANAKA NEGISHI SENZOKUSENZOKU
NEGISHI
K O K U S A I - D O R I
Medical SchoolMedical School Ono Ono Toco TokyoToco Tokyo
HospitalHospital ShitamachiShitamachi Gagaku KaiGagaku Kai Heritage HostelHeritage Hostel
Daimyo ClockDaimyo Clock Museum AnnexMuseum Annex
HA K U S A N-DO RI
HA K U S A N-DO RI
HakusanHakusan MuseumMuseum KO T O T O I - D O R I
N I C H I - I D A I - T S U T S U J I - D O R I SawanoyaSawanoya UguisudaniUguisudani IRIYA IMADOIMADO
N I C H I - I D A I - T S U T S U J I - D O R I
RyokanRyokan
IRIYA
KO T O T O I - D O R I
BUNKYO-BUNKYO- K Y U - H A K U S A N - D O R I Nezu ShrineNezu Shrine Rinko-jiRinko-ji NationalNational Iriya Iriya
TokyoTokyo
K O T O T O I - D O R I KatsutaroKatsutaro Art MuseumArt Museum E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 1 K O T O T O I - D O R I Otafuku
K O T O T O I - D O R I
KUKU NEZUNEZU Tokyo MetropolitanTokyo Metropolitan MuseumMuseum ASAKUSAASAKUSA U M A M I C H I - D O R I U M A M I C H I - D O R I Y O S H I N O - D O R I Y O S H I N O - D O R I
Otafuku
RyokanRyokan
K Y U - H A K U S A N - D O R I

TodaimaeTodaimae HanteiHantei UENOUENO Rinno-jiRinno-ji E X P R K I Y O S U B A S H I - D O R I E S S W A Y N O . 1 Sukeroku no

K O T O T O I - D O R I
TempleTemple
Sukeroku no
Nezu Nezu
UENOUENO
Yado Sadachiyo
ZOOZOO
SUMIDA
National MuseumNational Museum
of Nature and Scienceof Nature and Science MATSUGAYAMATSUGAYA K A PPA B A SH I - D O R I K A PPA B A SH I - D O R I Yado Sadachiyo Iidaya Iidaya SUMIDA
PARK PARK
Park SidePark Side AsakusaAsakusa
E D O - D O R I
Tosho-Gu Shrine Tosho-Gu Shrine K I Y O S U B A S H I - D O R I View HotelView Hotel
NISHIKATANISHIKATA Café UenoCafé Ueno National MuseumNational Museum NISHI-NISHI- Super Hotel
Super Hotel
UENO PARKUENO PARK TokyoTokyo of Western Artof Western Art S H O W A - D O R I S H O W A - D O R I ASAKUSAASAKUSA Asakusa Asakusa
Asakusa
Asakusa
Senso-ji
MetropolitanMetropolitan AsakusaAsakusa Izakaya Izakaya Senso-ji E D O - D O R I N O . 6 N O . 6
Imahan Imahan
HONGOHONGO Festival HallFestival Hall (Tsukuba Express line)(Tsukuba Express line) Koji Koji Temple
Temple
E X P R E S S W A Y
Japan ArtJapan Art RetrometroRetrometro
S E N K A W A - D O R I
S E N K A W A - D O R I
AcademyAcademy UenoUeno BackpackersBackpackers ASAKUSAASAKUSA
Daikokuya
Kiyo-mizuKiyo-mizu Taito WardTaito Ward Daikokuya Nakatsuka Bengara E X P R E S S W A Y
NAKAMISE-
Tokiwado
Tokiwado
Nishijima Umbrellas
Sometaro
UniversityUniversity BentenBenten Hall Hall OfficeOffice INARICHOINARICHO Sometaro DrumDrum Ginkado Nishijima Umbrellas
Ueno RoyalUeno Royal
H O N G O - D O R I
Ginkado
H O N G O - D O R I
DORI
DORI
MuseumMuseum
Sanbido Sanbido
of Tokyoof Tokyo Hall Hall MuseumMuseum InarichoInaricho Higashi Higashi KhaosanKhaosan Ocomo Nova Nova NAKAMISE- Nakatsuka Bengara Isesaki Line
Tobu
Tobu
Sushi-Sushi-
AsakusaAsakusa
Ocomo
Hongan-ji
TokyoTokyo
Isesaki Line
Bunsendo
Bunsendo
Kur
Keisei-Keisei-
UniversityUniversity ShinobazuShinobazu Hongan-ji LaboratoryLaboratory KAMINARIMON- Kurodayaodaya Sumida Sumida
KAMINARIMON-
HomeikanHomeikan of Tokyoof Tokyo PondPond ueno YamashiroyaYamashiroya Oedo Oedo A S A K U S A - D O R DORI DORI Kamiya Bar Ward Office
ueno
Kamiya Bar
Ward Office
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
HonkanHonkan HospitalHospital ShitamachiShitamachi AmeyokoAmeyoko Kaiten SushiKaiten Sushi A S A K U S A - D O R I I Gate Gate Asakusa
Asakusa
H A K U S A N - D O R I
H A K U S A N - D O R I
MuseumMuseum MarketMarket Shoryu GyozaShoryu Gyoza Hotel Hotel
KasugaKasuga JusanyaJusanya KameyaKameya Hotel Marutani Tawaramachi KAMINARIMON Capsule Capsule Flamme Flamme
KAMINARIMON
Tawaramachi
Hotel Marutani
Hotel Hotel
IssuiteiIssuitei
Hotel Parkside Hotel Parkside SuzumotoSuzumoto MOTO-MOTO- River Side d’Or d’Or
River Side
DaitoryoDaitoryo
TakokyuTakokyu TheaterTheater RingerRinger ASAKUSAASAKUSA AZUMABASHI
AZUMABASHI
Hut UenoHut Ueno
Sauna and CapsuleSauna and Capsule Ueno-Ueno-
K A S U G A - D O R I R I
K A S U G A - D O
Hotel DandyHotel Dandy
KOTOBUKI
YushimaYushima okachimachiokachimachi KOTOBUKI Honjo- Honjo-
azumabashi
H
KorakuenKorakuen K A S U G A - D O R I O R I UenohirokojiUenohirokoji Shin-Shin- K O K U S A I - D O R I K O K U S A I - D O R I azumabashi
H
K A S U G A - D
okachimachi
Bunkyo WardBunkyo Ward Yushima Yushima UENOUENO Naka- Naka- okachimachi
Office Office Hongo-Hongo- TenjinTenjin OkachimachiOkachimachi okachimachi K A S U G A - D O R I R I SUMIDA-SUMIDA-
okachimachi
K A S U G A - D O
KOISHIKAWAKOISHIKAWA sanchomesanchome O N G O - D O R I O N G O - D O R I Ueno FirstUeno First KUKU
City HotelCity Hotel
KORAKUENKORAKUEN
GARDENGARDEN HONGOHONGO TAITOTAITO MISUJIMISUJI
S H O H E I B A S H I - D O R I
TokyoTokyo HONJO
HONJO
DomeDome C H U O - D O R I C H U O - D O R I S H O W A - D O R I S H O W A - D O R I
K A S U G A -
KORAKUKORAKU BUNKYO-BUNKYO- YUSHIMAYUSHIMA T AITO-KUT AITO-KU K A S U G A - D O R I D O R I
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Kuramae
Hills HotelHills Hotel
SuidobashiSuidobashi KUKU KARAMAEB ASHI -DORI DORI S H O H E I B A S H I - D O R I Kuramae

S O T O B O R I - D
KARAMAEB ASHI -
S O T O B O R I - D O R I O R I
CenturyCentury KURAMAEKURAMAE R i v e r R i v e r
TowerTower Kanda MyojinKanda Myojin SuehirochoSuehirocho K U R A M A E B A S H I - D O R I R I KIYOSUMI-DORI KIYOSUMI-DORI
ShrineShrine
K U R A M A E B A S H I - D O
IidabashiIidabashi SuidobashiSuidobashi K a n d a
Puppet HousePuppet House Chuo Line K a n d a R i v e r R i v e r YushimaYushima YoshibaYoshiba
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E D O - D O R I
150 m150 m OchanomizuOchanomizu SeidoSeido YUSHIMA-ZAKA
K U R A M A E - B A S H I - D O
MISAKICHOMISAKICHO KAEDE-DORI TempleTemple N O . 6 N O . 6 K U R A M A E - B A S H I - D O R I R I
KAEDE-DORI
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Anne Hostel
PARK PARK
M E I D A I - D O R I
NISHI-NISHI- Archeological Museum ofArcheological Museum of OchanomizuOchanomizu Tsukumo Robot KingdomTsukumo Robot Kingdom Tokyo Tokyo S u m i d a S u m i d a
A I O I - Z A K A
E X P R E S S W A Y
E X P R E S S W A Y
KYU KYU
KANDAKANDA Meiji UniversityMeiji University M E I D A I - D O R I NikolaiNikolai AkihabaraAkihabara Nishiguchi-Nishiguchi- E X P R E S S W A Y E X P R E S S W A Y YOKOAMIYOKOAMI
YASUDAYASUDA
YakitonYakiton
Akihabara
Sobu Line
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bashibashi
N i h o n b a s h i R i v e r
Yanagibashi
N O . 5
N O . 5
RadioRadio
UniversityUniversity KANDA-KANDA- Shin- Shin- RyumeikanRyumeikan KaikanKaikan RemmRemm First CabinFirst Cabin Ryogoku SumoRyogoku Sumo Ryogoku
Ryogoku
HontenHonten
KAMEZA
JIMBOCHOJIMBOCHO CasalsCasals ochanomizuochanomizu Kanda YabuKanda Yabu AkihabaraAkihabara AkihabaraAkihabara Hall Hall KAMEZA W AW A
Hall Hall Soba Soba Edo-TokyoEdo-Tokyo
JimbochoJimbocho K a n d a R i v e r MuseumMuseum
K a n d a R i v e r
KudanshitaKudanshita KANDAKANDA Iwamotocho
Iwamotocho
Sobu Line
IsseidoIsseido Sobu Line
Ryogoku
Sakura HotelSakura Hotel YASUKUNI-DO R I OgawamachiOgawamachi AwajichoAwajicho Ryogoku K E I Y O - D O R I O R I
IWAMOTOCHO
JimbochoJimbocho IWAMOTOCHO K E I Y O - D
YASUKUNI-DO R I
Momonjiya
CHIYODA-CHIYODA-
MIDORI
Bakurocho
TayasumonTayasumon U C H I B O R I - DOR I HAKUSAN-DORI HAKUSAN-DORI Shinkansen Lines Shinkansen Lines E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 1 E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 1 Bakurocho Momonjiya R YOGOKU SUMIDA-SUMIDA- MIDORI
R YOGOKU
ChiyodaChiyoda
NipponNippon Ward OfficeWard Office KUKU KasuganoKasugano KUKU
H O N G O - D O R I
Beya Beya
BudokanBudokan KandaKanda Bakuro- DewanoumiDewanoumi
Bakuro-
U C H I B O R I - DOR I
yokoyama
EDO-D ORI
E X P R E S S W A Y
Science Science KANDA-KANDA- yokoyama IzutsuIzutsu Beya Beya E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 7 N O . 7
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MuseumMuseum NISHIKICHONISHIKICHO H O N G O - D O R I EDO-D ORI Higashi-
Higashi-
nihombashi
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KITANOMARUKITANOMARU UCHI-UCHI- KandaKanda nihombashi TATEKA W AW A
PARKPARK TakebashiTakebashi KANDAKANDA
Kodenmacho
NationalNational CH UO- D O R I Kodenmacho K I YO S UBASH I- DO RI
KIKUKA
Museum ofMuseum of Ote-bori S H O W A - D O R I S H O W A - D O R I KIKUKA W AW A
Ote-bori
CraftsCrafts Modern ArtModern Art S O T O B O R I - D O R I Capsule ValueCapsule Value CHUO-CHUO-
C hid origafuc hi
C hid origafuc hi
GalleryGallery KandaKanda
KUKU OHASHI Kikukawa
S O T O B O R I - D O R I
SHIN-
Kikukawa
NINGYO C HO- SHIN-
OHASHI
K I YO S UBASH I- DO RI
CH UO- D O R I
DORI
DORI
Shin- Shin- SHIN- SHIN-
NINGYO C HO-
Hamacho
nihonbashinihonbashi Hamacho OHASHI-DORI
OHASHI-DORI
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MinowaMinowa
HONKOMAGOME
HONKOMAGOME Kyoo-ji TempleKyoo-ji Temple MINOWAMINOWA



NipporiNippori O GUBASHI-DO RI HIGASHI-HIGASHI-
Asakura ChosoAsakura Choso NIPPORINIPPORI KIYOKA W AKIYOKA W A
SENDAGI
SENDAGI MuseumMuseum O TA K E B A S H I - D O R I O TA K E B A S H I - D O R I U M A M I C H I - D O R I
Sendagi Sendagi Daien-jiDaien-ji Tenno-ji Yamanote Line T AITO-KUT AITO-KU
Tenno-ji
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I Isetatsu Isetatsu SasanoyukiSasanoyuki
O GUBASHI-DO RI
Temple Temple
TempleTemple
U M A M I C H I - D O R I
Yamanote Line
YANAKA
YANAKA
HONGO-DORI
HONGO-DORI
HonkomagomeHonkomagome Zensho-enZensho-en CEMETERY S H O W A - D O R I S H O W A - D O R I RYUSENRYUSEN K O K U S A I - D O R I
CEMETERY
TempleTemple
N A K A S E N D O - D O R I
N A K A S E N D O - D O R I
HAKUSAN
HAKUSAN YANAKA NEGISHINEGISHI SENZOKUSENZOKU
YANAKA
K O K U S A I - D O R I
Medical School
Medical School Ono Ono Toco TokyoToco Tokyo
Hospital Hospital Shitamachi Gagaku KaiGagaku Kai Heritage HostelHeritage Hostel
Shitamachi
Museum Annex
Daimyo Clock
Daimyo Clock Museum Annex
HA K U S A N-DO RI
HA K U S A N-DO RI
HakusanHakusan Museum KO T O T O I - D O R I
Museum
N I C H I - I D A I - T S U T S U J I - D O R I
N I C H I - I D A I - T S U T S U J I - D O R I Sawanoyaanoya UguisudaniUguisudani IRIYAIRIYA IMADOIMADO
Ryokan Ryokan
Saw
KO T O T O I - D O R I
Rinko-ji
BUNKYO-BUNKYO- K Y U - H A K U S A N - D O R I Nezu ShrineNezu Shrine Rinko-ji NationalNational Iriya Iriya
TokyoTokyo
K O T O T O I - D O R I
K O T O T O I - D O R I Katsutaro Art MuseumArt Museum E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 1 K O T O T O I - D O R I
KUKU NEZU Tokyo MetropolitanTokyo Metropolitan MuseumMuseum ASAKUSAASAKUSA U M A M I C H I - D O R I U M A M I C H I - D O R I Y O S H I N O - D O R I Y O S H I N O - D O R I
NEZU
OtafukuOtafuku
Ryokan Ryokan
K Y U - H A K U S A N - D O R I
Katsutaro

K O T O T O I - D O R I
TodaimaeTodaimae Hantei Hantei UENOUENO Rinno-jiRinno-ji E X P R K I Y O S U B A S H I - D O R I E S S W A Y N O . 1 Sukeroku noSukeroku no

TempleTemple
Nezu Nezu
UENOUENO
ZOOZOO
National MuseumNational Museum
of Nature and Scienceof Nature and Science MATSUGAYAMATSUGAYA K A PPA B A SH I - D O R I K A PPA B A SH I - D O R I Yado SadachiyoYado Sadachiyo IidayaIidaya SUMIDASUMIDA
PARKPARK
Park Side
Park Side AsakusaAsakusa
E D O - D O R I
Tosho-Gu Shrine Tosho-Gu Shrine K I Y O S U B A S H I - D O R I View HotelView Hotel
Café Ueno
NISHIKA
NISHIKATA TA Café Ueno National MuseumNational Museum NISHI-NISHI- Super HotelSuper Hotel
UENO PARKUENO PARK TokyoTokyo of Western Artof Western Art S H O W A - D O R I S H O W A - D O R I ASAKUSAASAKUSA AsakusaAsakusa
AsakusaAsakusa
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ImahanImahan
HONGOHONGO Festival HallFestival Hall (Tsukuba Express line)(Tsukuba Express line) Koji Koji TempleTemple
E X P R E S S W A Y
Japan ArtJapan Art RetrometroRetrometro
S E N K A W A - D O R I
S E N K A W A - D O R I
AcademyAcademy UenoUeno BackpackersBackpackers ASAKUSAASAKUSA
Daikokuya
Kiyo-mizuKiyo-mizu Taito WardTaito Ward Daikokuya Nakatsuka BengaraBengara E X P R E S S W A Y
NAKAMISE-
TokiwadoTokiwado
University BentenBenten Hall Hall OfficeOffice INARICHOINARICHO SometaroSometaro DrumDrum GinkadoGinkado Nishijima UmbrellasNishijima Umbrellas
University
Ueno RoyalUeno Royal
H O N G O - D O R I
H O N G O - D O R I
DORI
DORI
SanbidoSanbido
MuseumMuseum
of Tokyo of Tokyo Hall Hall MuseumMuseum InarichoInaricho HigashiHigashi KhaosanKhaosan Ocomo Nova Nova NAKAMISE- Nakatsuka AsakusaAsakusa Isesaki Line
Tobu
Tobu
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University
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ueno
S H I N O B A Z U - D O R I
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Ameyoko
Honkan Honkan Hospital Hospital Shitamachi Ameyoko Kaiten SushiKaiten Sushi A S A K U S A - D O R I I Gate Gate AsakusaAsakusa
Shitamachi
H A K U S A N - D O R I
H A K U S A N - D O R I
Museum
Museum Market Market Shoryu GyozaShoryu Gyoza Hotel Hotel
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Hotel Dandy
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S H O H E I B A S H I - D O R I
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S O T O B O R I - D O R I O R I
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Shrine Shrine
K U R A M A E B A S H I - D O
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E X P R E S S W A Y
A I O I - Z A K A
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KANDA
KANDA Meiji UniversityMeiji University M E I D A I - D O R I NikolaiNikolai AkihabaraAkihabara Nishiguchi-Nishiguchi- E X P R E S S W A Y E X P R E S S W A Y YOKOAMIYOKOAMI
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S O T O B O R I - D O R I
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DO R I
D ORI
Shin- Shin- SHIN- SHIN-
NI NGYOC H O-
nihonbashinihonbashi HamachoHamacho OHASHI-DORI
OHASHI-DORI
182-183_EW_Tokyo.indd 183 12/09/16 11:24 am

Morishita
Mandarinin
Mandar Morishita
Oriental
OTEMACHI
HAMACHO
Sannomaruu
IMPERIAL Sannomar OTEMACHI Sushi Sushi Oriental TokyoTokyo HAMACHO
IMPERIAL
Sora
Sora
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Museum
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Bank of
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EAST GARDEN Bank of Japan NICHIGIN-DORI Dept. Stor Mitsuko- N I NG YOC NIHONBASHI- MORISHITA
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NINGYOCHO
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Otemon NICHIGIN-DORI shimae shimae Ningyocho N I NG YOCH O - D OR I
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KU WADAKURA O R I r r K I Y O S U M I - D O R I K I Y O S U M I - D O R I
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S u m i d a R i v e
WADAKURA E I TA I - D O R I K o n a g i R i v e r
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PARK PARK D Maruz Maruzenen Coredo Nihonbashi Suitengumae
E I TA I - D O R I
Coredo Nihonbashi
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Imper Imperialial H I B I Y A - D O R I Otemachi Nihonbashi Kite Kite Tokyo Tokyo S u m i d a R i v e shirakawa K I Y O S U B A S H I - D O R I
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Exchangee
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Edo Museum
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CHUO-KU
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PLAZA Tokyo Tokyo Y Dept. Stor GARDEN
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Nijubashi Nijubashimae YA E S U - D O R I
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SHIN-OHASHI-DORI
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Meiji Meiji
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Idemitsu Museum International
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H i b i y a - b o r i
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Antique Mall Ginza
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S A K U R A D A - D O R I Toranomon K O K K A I - D O R I Imperial Les Saisons Gallery Center BuildingBuilding Yoseido Mikimoto Picoeur Tempura Dept. Stor H E I S E I - D O R I Shintomicho MINA Monzen- Temple Temple Hachiman-gu
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Center
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Itoya
Hayashi
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Kimono
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Sony
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E I T A I - D O R I
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Hotel
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Maru
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Nakaei
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Shiodome
SHIMBASHI
Yamanote, Keihin Tohoku Lines
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TSUKISHIMA
Tsukiji
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SHIBA- SHIBA- K E I H I N SHIOHAMA
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Tamachi Passeng Passenger er
Terminal
Terminal
184-185_EW_Tokyo.indd 184 12/09/16 11:24 am

Morishita
Mandar Morishita
Mandarinin
Oriental
OTEMACHI
HAMACHO
Sannomaru
IMPERIAL
IMPERIAL Sannomaru OTEMACHI Sushi Sushi Oriental TokyoTokyo HAMACHO
Sora
Sora
Shozokan
Mitsui Memorial
CHIYODA
CHIYODA PALACE Shozokan Otemachi Mitsui Memorial
PALACE
Museum
Museum
Otemachi
Bank of
NIHONBASHI-
Mitsuko-
EAST GARDEN
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Japan
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NINGYOCHO
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SHIN-OHASHI-DORI
Hyakunin
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Hotel
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 9
KU
KU WADAKURA O R I r r K I Y O S U M I - D O R I K I Y O S U M I - D O R I
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Coredo Nihonbashi
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Marunouchi
CHUO-KU
PALACE B a b a s a k a - b o r i B a b a s a k a - b o r i MARUNOUCHI YAESU S A K U R A - D O R I TakashimayaCHUO-KU KIYOSUMI
PALACE
Building
Building
Takashimaya
KIYOSUMI
Dept. Store
PLAZA
YAESU - D O R I
PLAZA Tokyo Tokyo Y Dept. Store GARDEN
GARDEN
Station Hotel I
Kushiro Kushiro Station Hotel
Nijubashimae
Nijubashi
Nijubashi Nijubashimae YA E S U - D O R I
KOTO-KU
Kayabacho
Bridge Bridge Kayabacho KOTO-KU
SHIN-OHASHI-DORI
Meiji Meiji
Seimeikan
Seimeikan SOTOBRI- DORI SOTOBRI- DORI Cotton Cotton S O T O B O R I - D O R S O T O B O R I - D O R I A E S U - D O R I SHOWA-DORI SHOWA-DORI
SAKURABASHI- DORI
HIRANO
Building
Building Club Club Nihonbashi River HIRANO
S a k u r a d a - b o r i
S a k u r a d a - b o r i
Nihonbashi River
Imperial Theater & Tokyo Tokyo SHIN-OHASHI-DORI
Imperial Theater &
KYOBASHI
Idemitsu Museum International
Idemitsu Museum International KYOBASHI SAKURABASHI- DORI FUKAGA
FUKAGA W AW A
SHINKAWAWA
H i b i y a - b o r i
H i b i y a - b o r i
Sakuradamon YURAKUCHO Forum Forum Muji Kyobashi National Film SHINKA
Sakuradamon
Kyobashi
K A J I B A S H I - D O R I
KASUMIGASEKI I B O R I - D O R I HIBIY HIBIYAA Peninsula Yurakucho itchome itchome Takaracho
U C H I B O R I - D O R I
YURAKUCHO
Muji
National Film
Yurakucho
K A S A I B A S H I - D O R I
Kasumigaseki Hibiya Hibiya Yurakucho Ginza- Ginza- Center Center K A J I B A S H I - D O R I K A S A I B A S H I - D O R I
Kasumigaseki
Takaracho
Peninsula
Yurakucho
Hotel
EITAI
EITAI
Hatchobori
Antique Mall Ginza
Antique Mall Ginza
FUYUKI
FUYUKI
Yarakucho
Yarakucho
KASUMIGASEKI U C H PARK PARK Takarazukaazuka Theater Hotel Sukibayashi Jiro Birdland Vin Printemps YANAGI- DORI GINZA SHINTOMI Hatchobori E I T A I - D O R I Fukag Fukagawaawa E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 9
Printemps GINZA
Coca
S A K U R A D A - D O R I
Coca
S A K U R A D A - D O R I Toranomon K O K K A I - D O R I Imperial Les Saisons Gallery Center Building Building Hisago Tempura Dept. Stor H E I S E I - D O R I Shintomicho MINA Monzen- Temple Temple Hachiman-gu
Center
Center
SHINTOMI
Dept. Storee
Takar
Building
Building Dept. Stor
H E I S E I - D O R I
Sukibayashi Jiro
Hayashi
Itoya
Hayashi
Itoya
Theater
Birdland Vin
YANAGI- DORI
Kimono
Kimono
Sony
Sony
Picoeur Matsuya
Matsuya
E X P R E S S W A Y N O . 9
Picoeur
Les Saisons
E I T A I - D O R I
Imperial Gallery Center Building
Dept. Storee
Mikimoto
Mikimoto
Building
Wako Dept. Storept. Store
Hotel
Building Wako De
Mitsuk
Hotel
Mitsukoshioshi
K O K K A I - D O R I
Dept. Storee
Sato Yosuke
San’ai Dept. Stor
Sato Yosuke
San’ai
Tomioka
Tomioka
Yoseido
Yoseido
Monzen-
Building
MINATOTO
Gallery
Gallery
Hachiman-gu
Ginza Tempura
nakacho
K I Y O S U M I - D O R I nakacho
Shintomicho
Ginza
Shrine
Shrine
Hisago
Toranomon
Nagamine
Nagamine
Sake Plaza
Sake Plaza
The Ginza U O-D O R I
Ginza Graphic Gallery R I
Higashi-
MATSUYA-DORI
Ginza Graphic Gallery
DORI
DORI
MATSUYA-DORI
Galleria
Galleria
KOJUNSHA-
ginza
UCHISAIWAICHO Ginza Ginza Takumi KOJUNSHA- 300 Bar 300 Bar Higashi- ginza Kabuki-za ChuoW ChuoWardard Office K I Y O S U M I - D O R I
UCHISAIWAICHO
Kabuki-za Office
Grafica
Grafica
Takumi
Theater
Theater
Asahi
S O T O B O R I - D O R I
S O T O B O R I - D O R I
Okamoto The Ginza U O-D O Asahi Building Koransha Gallery Seizan St. Luk St. Luke’se’s Etchujima BOT BOTANAN
Okamoto Shiseido
Etchujima
Shiseido Building
KoranshaGallery Seizan
AKASHICHO
GINZA Atlier Shinji Ginza
Ginza Grand Hotel
Uchisaiwaicho
Tsukiji
Uchisaiwaicho Ginza Grand Hotel C H C H GINZA Atlier Shinji Ginza Tsukiji Hospital Hospital AKASHICHO
Grill Bon
Hakuhinkan HANATSUBAKI- Grill Bon
KIBA
Toy Park Toy Park DORI Sushi Iwa TSUKUDA KIBA
TSUKUDA
Sushi Iwa
Hakuhinkan DORI
Shinbashi
HANATSUBAKI- Shinbashi
Shimbashi
Hongw
Hongwanjianji
Japan Japan Shimbashi Shiodome Enbujo Enbujo TheaterTheater H ARU M I- DO Tsukiji Tsukiji
Shiodome
City Center
Sword Sword SHIMBASHI H I B I Y A - D O R I H I B I Y A - D O R I Shimbashi City Center Nagakin National Business Business Tsukiji-Eki- Monja Monja ETCHUJIMA
NISHI-
NISHI-
Hotel BanAPA Hotel
Hotel Ban
APA Hotel
Nagakin
ETCHUJIMA
SHIMBASHI
Tsukiji-Eki-
Cancer
Cancer
Shimbashi
ADMT
U C H I B O R I - D O R I MINA SHIMBASHI Media Tower Shiodome Caretta Conrad Tower Tower Tsukijishijo Tenfusa Tenfusa Yoshinoya Namiyoke R i v e r R i v e r Warahsibe KIYOSUMI-DORI Tsukishima
U C H I B O R I - D O R I
National RI
H ARU M I- DO RI
Minami
Capsule
Minami
ADMT Capsule
Center
Center
TSUKIJI
TSUKIJI
Caretta
Oedosakai
Oedosakai
Tsukishima
Shiodome
MINA TO-KUTO-KU
Warahsibe
Tsukijishijo
Yoshinoya
KIYOSUMI-DORI
Shiodome
Shiodome
Namiyoke
Sushi
Conrad
Sushi
Hotel
Hotel
Maru
Maru
Media Tower
Inari Shrine
Nakaei Inari Shrine
Nakaei
Shiodome
Shiodome
SHIMBASHI
Vegetable
Yamanote, Keihin Tohoku Lines
Market
Market
Tsukiji
TSUKISHIMA
Onarimon
Onarimon Vegetable Fish Mar Tsukiji TSUKISHIMA
S u m i d a
Fish Marketket
SHIBA- SHIBA- K E I H I N SHIOHAMA
SHIBA-
SHIOHAMA
HAMA-RIKYU
KOEN
KOEN HAMA-RIKYU S u m i d a
GARDENS
GARDENS
Kachidoki
SHIBA- D A I I C H I K E I H I N Yamanote, Keihin Tohoku Lines Kachidoki
DAIMON Nakajima T o y u s u C a n a l
DAIMON
Nakajima
KACHIDOKI
Teahouse
Minato
Minato Ward Office A I I C H I Teahouse KACHIDOKI HARUMI-DORI
Ward Office Acty Acty
T o y u s u C a n a l
D Shiodome HARUMI ORI
Shiodome
Zojo-ji Zojo-ji Daimon HARUMI
Daimon
HARUMI-DORI
Temple Temple Tolman Tolman HARUMI-DORI
CHUO-KU
Nihon Buyoo
Collection
Collection CHUO-KU Nihon Buy HARUMI-D HARUMI-DORI
Kyokai
Kyokai
World World KAIGAN KOTO-KU
KOTO-KU
KIYOSUMI-DORI
KAIGAN
Trade Center
KYU-SHIBA
SHIBA
SHIBA-
SHIBA SHIBA- Trade Center KYU-SHIBA
HARUMI-DORI
KOEN
PARK PARK KOEN Hamamatsucho RIKYU RIKYU Takeshiba KIYOSUMI-DORI
GARDEN Takeshiba
Hamamatsucho GARDEN
Shibakoen Toyusu Toyusu
Shibakoen
InterContinental
InterContinental
Tokyo Bay TOYOMICHO Toyusu Toyusu TOYUSU
Tokyo Bay
TOYOMICHO
TOYUSU
C a n a l C a n a l TOYUSU PARK
TOYUSU
E X P R E S S W A Y L O O P L I N E
E X P R E S S W A Y L O O P L I N E
PARK
H I B I Y A - D O R I D A I I C H I K E I H I N Toshiba Toshiba H a r u m i
H I B I Y A - D O R I
SHIBA
SHIBA
Builing
D A I I C H I K E I H I N
Builing
H a r u m i
HARUMI
Shintoyusu
Mita Mita Hinode Hinode HARUMI HARUMI Shintoyusu
HARUMI
SHINONOME
Blues Alle SHIBAURA FUTO P FUTO PARKARK SHINONOME
Blues Alley Japany Japan
SHIBAURA
4 km 4 km Harumi Harumi
Tamachi Tamachi Passeng Passenger er
Terminal
Terminal
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186  GENER AL INDEX

General Index


Page numbers in bold refer to Arrivals, by air 168 Books
main entries. Art bookshops 140, 141
Art Browsing day 11 Jimbocho Booksellers’ District 46,
A contemporary 140 81, 138, 140
Accessories shops 140, 141 Mount Fuji in 99 Boso no Mura (Narita) 90
Accommodation 108–15 Art Front Gallery 78–9 Bourgeois, Louise 71
minshuku 108, 111, 114–15 Art galleries see Museums and Bowing 160
pensions 111, 114–15 galleries Breakfast 116, 124
ryokan 110–11, 115 Arts and crafts, traditional Bridges
temple lodgings 111 Japan Folk Crafts Museum 79, Engetsukyo 47
traditional 110–11, 114–15 140, 141 Hijiribashi 81
youth hostels 109, 114–15 Japan Traditional Craft Center 74, Nihonbashi 12, 44, 76
see also Hotels 140, 141 Nijubashi 38, 45
Acty Shiodome 43 shopping 140, 141 Rainbow 43, 77, 85
Adams, William 27, 97 Asagao Ichi 31 Shinkyo (Nikko) 100
Addresses, finding 171 Asahi Building 40 Tsukenkyo 13, 47
Admission prices 157 Asahi Super Dry Hall 16 Yokohama Bay 90, 91
ADMT (Advertising Museum of Asakura, Fumio 82 Buddha’s Birthday 30
Tokyo) 13, 43 Asakura Choso Museum 82 Buddhism 24
Ai No Ma (Taiyuin-byo Shrine, Asakusa 11, 12, 13, 49 calligraphy 79
Nikko) 104 shopping 138 introduction of 23
Aikido 21 Asakusa Jinja Shrine 58 Layout of a Zen Buddhist Temple
Air travel 168–9 Asakusa Kannon see Senso-ji 95
Airport transfers 168–9 Temple Nichiren Buddhism 25
Akasaka District 71 Asano, Lord 78 Pure-land Buddhism 24, 25, 26
nightlife 152 Ashi, Lake 97 sculpture 53
Akihabara Electronics District 39, 47 Ashikaga Yoshiaki 26 Shingon Buddhism 24
itineraries 10, 13 Ashikaga Yoshimasa 25 Zen Buddhism 21, 25, 94
shopping 138, 144–5 Athletics 148 see also Monks, Buddhist; Shrines;
Akihito, Emperor 29 ATMs 164–5 Temples
Alcoholic drinks 129 Atomic bomb 29 Budo (martial arts) 20
Allied Occupation Force 29 Autumn in Tokyo 32 Bugaku dancers 30
Almond 71 Awashima-do Hall (Senso-ji Bullet trains (shinkansen) 29,
Amagi Yugashima 97 Temple) 58 154–5, 174–5
Amaterasu (sun goddess) 23 Azai Nagamasa 26 Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum
Amazake-chaya teahouse (near Azalea Festival 30 65
Hakone) 97 Bunka Kaikan Center 74
Ambulance services 163 B Bunkamura 11, 68, 146, 149,
Ameyoko Center Building 56 Bank of Japan 44 151
Ameyoko Market 13, 56 Bank notes 165 Bunraku 18, 19, 27, 150
Amida Buddha 92 Banks 164–5 Bunzaemon, Kinokuniya 76
Ancient Orient Museum 74 opening hours 164 Bureaux de change 164
Anime Japan 30 Bars Buses 171
Antique stores 139, 141 clubs and bars 152, 153 getting around Tokyo 170
Aokigahara Jukai (Sea of Trees, dining bars 118 to/from airports 168, 169
Mount Fuji) 98 high-rise bars 152, 153 Business hotels 108, 113
Aoyama 70, 138 Baseball 148, 149 Butoh 151
Aoyama Cemetery 70 Basketball 148 Butsuden (Engaku-ji Temple,
Aoyama Technical College 17 Beer 129 Kamakura) 95
Aqua City 85 Daiba micro brewery 85 Butsunichian subtemple
Aquarium (Sunshine 60) 74 Kirin Beer Village (Yokohama) 91 (Kamakura) 95
Aragoto 19 Bell Tower (Taiyuin-byo Shrine,
Arakawa Nature Park 75 Nikko) 105 C
Arakawa River 96 Beneath the Wave off Kanagawa Calendar 158–9
Arakawa Tram Line 75, 170–71 (Hokusai) 99 Calligraphy, Buddhist 79
Arakawa Yuen Park 75 Benten (goddess of music) 94 Capsule hotels 108–9, 114
Arcades, shopping 139 Benten-yama Shoro belfry (Senso- Car rental 171
Archeological Museum of Meiji ji Temple) 58 Carreta Shiodome 43, 139, 141
University 81 Bento boxes 119, 125 Casals Hall 81
Architecture 16–17 Beya (sumo stables) 76, 148 Cash 164
Architecture and Electronics day Biken 56 Cathedrals
10 Bokuseki (Buddhist calligraphy) 79 Nikolai Cathedral 81
traditional 17 Bon-Odori dances 31 St Mary’s Cathedral 16




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GENER AL INDEX  187





Cemeteries Climate 31–3, 156 Debit cards 164, 165
Aoyama Cemetery 70 Clothing 142–3 Decks Tokyo Beach 10, 77, 85
Foreigners’ Cemetery fashion buildings 142, 143 Dejima 26
(Yokohama) 91 menswear 142–3 Deluxe Hotels 108
Hodogaya Commonwealth textiles and kimonos 143 Dembo-in, garden of 58
Cemetery 91 what to bring 156 Departmental stores 138–9, 141
Yanaka Cemetery 82 women’s fashions 142, 143 Departures, by air 169
Zoshigaya Cemetery 75 Clubs 152, 153 Design, contemporary 140
Center Gai 68 Coins 165 Design Festa 30
Central Tokyo 38–47 Comedy 147, 149 Design Festa Gallery 67
area map 39 Coming-of-Age Day 33 Dialing codes 166
hotels 112–14 Communications 166–7 Diet Building 28, 45, 71
restaurants 130–31 Commuter culture 173 Dining bars 118
Century Tower 81 Conder, Josiah 74 Dinner 116
Ceramics Confucius 81 Disabled visitors 158, 159
Goto Art Museum 79 Consumption tax 116, 138, 161 Dishes prepared at table 121
Hakone Art Museum 96 Convenience stores 119, 139 DJs 152–3
Japan Folk Crafts Museum 79 Conversion tables 159 Dogen-zaka 68
Mitsui memorial Museum 44 Coredo Nihonbashi 44 Doll Festival 30
shopping for 140 Cosmetics shops 140, 141 Doll shops 140
Suntory Museum of Art 71 Courier services 167 Domestic flights 169
Tokyo National Museum 54 Coutelier, Marc 84 Domoto, Insho 59
Cherry blossom 30 Crafts see Arts and crafts Donburi (rice bowl dishes) 120
Chidorigafuchi (Kitanomaru Park) Crafts Gallery (Museum of Modern Downtown Fukagawa 76–7
46 Art) 12, 13, 46 Dress code, restaurants 116
when to go 156 Crayon House 10, 140, 141 Drinks 128–9
Chiba, restaurants 136, 137 Credit cards 164, 165 Drum Museum 12, 56
Chichibu 96 in hotels 108 Drum Tower (Taiyuin-byo Shrine,
trains to 174 in restaurants 116 Nikko) 104
Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park in shops 138 Dutch traders 26, 27
87, 96 Crime 162
Chidorigafuchi (Kitanomaru Park) Criminal Museum 81 E
46 Cryptomeria forests 87 Earthquakes
Children Cultural Information Lobby (Tokyo 2011 29
facilities for 158 International Forum) 45 Great Hanshin Earthquake (1995)
A Family Day 10 Currency 165 29
shops for 145 Customs (social) see Etiquette Great Kanto Earthquake (1923)
traveling with 158, 159 Customs information 157, 159 28
Children’s Day 30 Cycling natural disasters 162, 163
China getting around Tokyo 170, 171 East Garden of the Imperial Palace
relations with 25, 26, 27 sporting events 148 12, 45
wars with 28–9 East Shinjuku 36
Chinatown (Yokohama) 87, 91 D street-by-street 62–3
Chinese Ceramics (Tokyo National Daiba Little Hong Kong 85 Ebisu District 78
Museum) 54 Daibutsu 88, 92 Ebisu Garden Place 78
Chinese Sculpture (Tokyo National Daien-ji Temple 83 Economy 29
Museum) 54 Daiho-jo (Engaku-ji Temple, Edo 26
Chinese-style dishes 121 Kamakura) 95 renamed Tokyo 28
Chinowa circle 71 Daikanyama Address Dixsept 79, rise of 27
Chirashi-zushi 126 138, 142, 143 Edo Bay 27
Chopsticks 117 Daikanyama District 78–9 Edo cuisine 122–3
Choshu 27 Daimyo (feudal lords) 18, 27, 28 Edo-Tokyo Museum 13, 76
Christianity, persecution of 26 Daimyo Clock Museum 83 Electricity 159
Chrysanthemum viewing 32 Daiya River 100, 101 Electronics
Chuo University 46 Dance Akihabara Electronics District 10,
Chuo-dori 40 Bon-Odori 31 47, 138
Chushingura (play) 78 dance clubs 152–3 shopping 144–5
Cinema 146–7, 149 Gigaku dances 52 Email 167
National Film Center 44 Golden dragon dance 30 Embassies 156, 157, 159, 162
Toho Cinema Complex 62 traditional and contemporary Emergencies 162, 163
Tokyo International Film Festival 151 emergency numbers 163
32, 146 see also Festivals phrase book 200
Clavell, James 27, 97 De Meuron, Pierre 16, 70 Emperor, respect for 160




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188  GENER AL INDEX


Emperors and Empresses see by Food and drink (cont.) Geisha 151, 160
name fast food 119 Genji, Prince 24
Engaku-ji Temple (Kamakura) 94, Flavors of Japan 122–3 Genji Pond (Kamakura) 92
95 health and safety 163 Genshin 24
Engetsukyo Bridge 47 izakaya and dining bars 118 Ghibli Museum 147, 149
English traders 27 The Japanese meal 124 Gift shops 144, 145
Entertainment 146–53 kaiseki ryori 118 Gift-giving 161
baseball and soccer 148, 149 noodles 119 Gigaku dances 52
booking tickets 146, 149, 157 other Asian food 119 Ginza 37, 39
cinema 146–7, 149 popular fish 127 itineraries 12, 13
clubs and bars 152, 153 preparation and portions 124 nightlife 152
DJ and dance clubs 152–3 reading the menu 120–21 shopping 138, 142
gay and lesbian 153 regional cuisine 123 street-by-street 40–41
information sources 146, 149, shojin ryori 111, 119, 122 Ginza Yokyo Hall 40
157 shopping for 144, 145 Ginza Yon-chome crossing 40,
international theater 147, 149 sushi and sashimi 126–7 41
Kabuki 18, 19, 150, 151 traditional Japanese specialities Girls’ Day 30
karaoke 68, 147, 149 122 Gojoten Shrine 50
live music 147, 149 on trains 175 Gokoku-ji Temple 17, 75
martial arts 20–21, 148, 149 vegetarian food 119 Golden dragon dance 30
nightlife 152–3 Western food 119 Golden Gai 12, 13, 62, 63, 139
Noh 18, 150, 151 what to drink in Tokyo 128–9 Golden Week 79, 156
pachinko 62, 68, 69, 148, 149 see also Restaurants Gotenba trail (Mount Fuji) 99
spectator sports 148, 149 Foreigners’ Cemetery (Yokohama) Goto, Keita 79
sumo 20–21, 148, 149 91 Goto Art Museum 79
traditional and contemporary Francis Xavier, St 25 Granite Fountain (Taiyuin-byo
dance 151 Fudo Myo-o (deity of immovable Shrine, Nikko) 105
traditional music 151 wisdom) 87, 90 Grant, Ulysses S. 42
traditional performing arts 150–51 Fugu (blowfish) 163 Great Buddha (Kamakura) 25, 87,
traditional theater 18–19, 150, restaurants 118 88, 92
151 Fuji see Mount Fuji Great Buddha of Yanaka 82
Etiquette 160–61 Fuji Five Lakes 87, 98–9 Great Buddhist Pagoda (Ueno
food and drink 117 Fuji TV Building 13, 16, 72, 77, 85 Park) 50
temples and shrines 161 Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park 86 Great Hanshin Earthquake (1995)
Exchange rates 164 Fuji-Yoshida 99 29
Ezo tribes 24 Fujikawaguchiko, restaurants 136, Great Kanto Earthquake (1923) 28,
137 36, 39
F Fujimi-zaka (Fuji-viewing slope) 82 Kamakura 94
Face masks 160 Fujinomiya trail (Mount Fuji) 98 Yokoamicho Park 76
Fall in Tokyo 32 Fujioshida, hotels 113 Yokohama 90
Fan Zhongyan 47 Fujiwara clan 24 Green tea 128
Farther Afield 72–9 Fujiwara Takayoshi, Tale of Genji 79 Green travel 170
area map 73 Fukabachi Bowl (Tokyo National Guanyu 91
hotels 112–15 Museum) 55
restaurants 134–5 Fukagawa 13, 73, 76–7 H
Fast food 119 Fukagawa Edo Museum 13, 76 Hachiko (statue) 69
Festival of the Ages 32 Fukushima nuclear disaster 29, Hagoita Ichi 33
Festival of the Dead 31, 156 162, 163 Haiden (Taiyuin-byo Shrine, Nikko)
Festivals 30–33 Futara-san Shrine (Nikko) 101 104
see also by name Hakone 87, 96–7
Fifty-Three Stations of the Tokaido G hotels 113, 115
(Hiroshige) 57, 99 Gadgets and gizmos 144–5 restaurants 136, 137
Film see Cinema Gagaku (court music) 150, 151 trains to 174
Fire services 163 Galleries Hakone Art Museum 96, 97
Fireworks 31 contemporary art and design Hakone Open-Air Museum 96, 97
Fish, popular 127 140, 141 Hakone-machi 97
Flame of Freedom 84 see also Museums and galleries Hakone-Yumoto 96
Flavors of Japan 122–3 Gallery Center Building 40 Hama-rikyu Gardens 11, 12, 13,
Flea markets 139, 141, 143 Gallery of Horyu-ji Treasures 42–3
Fukagawa 77 (Tokyo National Museum) 52 Hana Matsuri 30
Food and drink Gambling 148 Hanami 30
Bento boxes 119, 125 Gamo residence (former) 82–3 Hanamichi 19
convenience stores 119 Gardens see Parks and gardens Hanazono Shrine 63, 139
customs, etiquette, and taboos Gate of Hell (Rodin) 51 Haneda Airport 168, 169
117 Gay and lesbian travelers 158, 159 Haniwa Horse (Tokyo National
Edo cuisine 122–3 entertainment 153 Museum) 55




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GENER AL INDEX  189


Haniwa Male Figure (Tokyo Hospitals 163 Itineraries 10–13
National Museum) 55 Hostels 114–15 Architecture and Electronics 10
Hankyu 40 Hot springs Art Browsing 11
Harajuku District 12, 61, 67, 138 Hakone 96–7 A Family Day 10–11
Hase-dera Temple (Kamakura) 92 Izu Peninsula 97 Five Days in Tokyo 13
Hatajuku 97 Oedo Onsen Monogatari 77, 85 An Outdoors Day 11
Hazards, minor 163 Hotels 108–15 Three Days in Tokyo 12
Health 162, 163 Beyond Tokyo 112–13, 115 Two Days in Tokyo 12
Health insurance 163 booking and paying 108 Iwasaki, Yataro 74
Hearn, Lafcadio 75 business 108, 113 Izakaya 118, 152
Heda 97 capsule 108–9, 114 snacks 121
Heian period 24 Central Tokyo 112–14 The Izu Dancer (statue) 97
Heian-kyo 24 deluxe 108, 112–13 Izu Peninsula 87, 97
Heijo-kyo 23 Farther Afield 112–15
Heiseikan Building (Tokyo National love hotels 109, 114 J
Museum) 52, 55 Northern Tokyo 112–15 Japan Folk Crafts Museum 11, 79,
Herbal medicine 163 recommended 109, 112–15 140, 141
Herzog, Jacques 16, 70 Western Tokyo 112–14 Japan National Tourist
Hibiya District 45 see also Accommodation Organization (JNTO) 146, 157,
Hibiya Park 11, 45 Hozo-mon Gate (Senso-ji Temple) 159
Hideyoshi see Toyotomi Hideyoshi 59 Japan Rail Pass 168, 175
Hie Jinja Shrine 71 Humax Pavilion Building 69 Japan Railways (JR) 172, 174–5
festivals 31 Humidity 156 Japan Traditional Craft Center 74,
Hierarchy 160 Humility 160 140, 141
High-rise bars 152, 153 Hyakunin Basho 45 Japanese Archeology Gallery
Hijiribashi 81 Hydrangea Temple see Meigetsu (Tokyo National Museum) 55
Hikawa Maru (Yokohama) 91 Temple Jaywalking 161
Hillside Terrace 78 Hygiene 160, 162 Jesuits 25
Himiko, Queen of Yamakai 23 Hyokeikan Building (Tokyo Jewelry shops 140, 141
Hina Matsuri 30 National Museum) 52, 55 Jimbocho Booksellers’ District 39,
Hirohito, Emperor 29 46, 81, 138, 140
Hiroshige 27, 57, 99 I Jingoro, Hidari 102
Fifty-Three Stages of the Tokaido Idemitsu Museum of Arts 45 Jinriki-sha (rickshaws) 171
57, 99 Iemitsu see Tokugawa Iemitsu Jiyu Gakuen Myonichikan 74
Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji 99 Ieyasu see Tokugawa Ieyasu Jizo 82
Hiroshima 29 Ikebukuro District 73, 74 JNTO see Japan National Tourist
History 22–9 Immigration 168 Organization
History Garage Museum 84 Imperial Diet 28, 45 Jochi-ji Temple (Kamakura) 94
Hodogaya Commonwealth Imperial Palace 12, 13, 38, 45 Jogyo-do (Nikko) 101
Cemetery 91 Imperial Palace Garden 11, 45 Jokan-ji Temple 75
Hojo family 24, 25 Imperial Shrine see Meiji Shrine Joko-ji Temple 82
Hokkaido 28 Imperial Theater 44 Jomon culture 23, 55
Hokke-do (Nikko) 101 Inaricho District 56 Jomyo-ji Temple (Kamakura) 94
Hokoku-ji Temple (Kamakura) 92 Indian Sculpture (Tokyo National Joshi (love suicide) 27
Hokusai 27, 57, 99 Museum) 54 Joya-no-Kane 33
Beneath the Wave off Kanagawa Information sources Judo 21, 148
99 entertainment 146, 149 Jufuku-ji Temple (Kamakura) 94
Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fuji 8–9, tourist information 157, 159 Jujitsu 21
27, 99 websites 159
Homosexuality, attitudes to 160 Inns, traditional see ryokan K
Honda Theater 79 Insect repellent 163 Kabuki 18, 19, 27, 67
Honden (Taiyuin-byo Shrine, Insurance 163 Kabuki-za Theater 12, 42, 150,
Nikko) 104 International dialing codes 166 151
Honji-do (Tosho-gu Shrine, Nikko) International Robot Exhibition 32 reconstructed theater (Edo-
102 International telephone calls 166 Tokyo Museum) 76
Honkan Building (Tokyo National International theater 147, 149 Tokyo National Museum 52–3
Museum) 52–3 Internet 167 Kabukicho 13, 62
Honmaru (Imperial Palace) 45 Iris viewing 31 Kaguraden (Meiji Shrine) 66
Honmaru Goten (Kawagoe) 90 Iriya Kishibojin Temple 31 Kaiseki ryori (haute cuisine) 118
Honshu 23, 24–5, 26 Isetan Art Museum 63 Kamakura 87, 88, 92–4
Horai Island (Koishikawa Korakuen Isetan Department Store 63 festivals 32
Garden) 47 Isetatsu 83, 140, 141 hotels 113
Horikiri Iris Garden 31 Isolationism 27 Kita Kamakura 94
Horse-racing 148 Isozaki, Arata 81 map 92–3
Horseback archery 30, 32 Isseido 46, 140, 141 restaurants 136
Horyu-ji Temple (near Nara) 52 Issey Miyake 142–3 trains to 174




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190  GENER AL INDEX


Kamakura National Treasure House Kitanomaru Park 12, 46 Love suicide 27
Museum 92 Kitazawa Books 46 Luggage
Kamakura Shogunate 24–5 Kite Museum 44 delivery 169
Kamakura-gu Shrine (Kamakura) Kiyomizu Hall 51 what to bring 156
150 Kiyomizu Kannon-do Temple Lunch 116
Kaminarimon Gate (Senso-ji (Ueno Park) 32
Temple) 58 Kiyonaga, Torii 57 M
Kaminarimon-dori 31 Kiyosumi Teien Garden 13, 76–7 McCaleb, John Moody 75
Kammu, Emperor 24 Koban (police boxes) 162, 163 Mail services 167
Kanagawa Treaty 27 Kobayashi Kiyochika 57 Main Hall (Senso-ji Temple) 59
Kan’ami Kiyotsugu 18 Kobe beef 123 Maisen 10
Kanaya 97 Kochi street market 127 Maizuru 56
Kanda Matsuri 30, 47, 81 Kodomo no hi 30 Maki, Fumihiko 70, 78
Kanda Myojin Shrine 13, 33, Koenji Awa Odori 31 Maki-zushi 127
47, 81 Kogan-ji Temple 74 Makuhari Messe 32
Kanda River 81 Koishikawa Botanical Gardens Malls 139
Kanda Yabu Soba 81, 132 101 Manchuria 28
Kanei-ji Temple 50, 51 Koishikawa Korakuen Garden 13, Manga 140, 141
Kanmam-ga-Fuchi Abyss (Nikko) 47 Man’yoshu 23
101 Kojiki (chronicle) 23 Maps
Kannon (goddess of mercy) 58, 75, Kokamon Gate (Taiyuin-byo A 45-Minute Walk from the High
92, 100 Shrine, Nikko) 104 to Low City 81
pilgrim route (Chichibu-Tama-Kai Komagome 74 A 90-Minute Walk in Odaiba
National Park) 96 Korea 28 84–5
Kano School 104 Korean Art (Tokyo National A 90-Minute Walk in Yanaka 82–3
Kano Yasunobu 105 Museum) 54 Central Tokyo 39
Kantei-byo Temple (Yokohama) 91 Korean War 29 East Shinjuku street-by-street
Kanto region 23, 26 Koto 151 62–3
Kanze Nohgakudo 150 Kotto-dori 70 Exploring Beyond Tokyo 88–9
Kappabashi-dori 12, 56, 139, 140 Kumu-shonin 82 Farther Afield 73
Karakuri Museum 140, 141 Kuniyoshi, Utagawa 57 Ginza street-by-street 40–41
Karamon Gate (Taiyuin-byo Shrine, Kunozan Tosho-gu (Shizuoka) Japan 14–15
Nikko) 104 97 Kamakura 92–3
Karamon Gate (Tosho-gu Shrine, Kura-Zukuri Shiryokan (Kawagoe) Nikko 100
Nikko) 102 90 Northern Tokyo 49
Karaoke 68, 147, 149 Kurokawa, Kisho 71 Putting Tokyo on the Map
Karate 21, 148 Kyogen 18, 150 14–15
Kawagoe 90 Kyoo-ji Temple 82 Shibuya street-by-street 68–9
restaurants 136, 137 Kyoto Southeast and East Asia 15
Kawaguchi, Lake 98 history 24, 25, 26, 27 Subway see back endpaper
Kawaguchi-ko trail (Mount Fuji) 98 Kabuki 18 Three Guided Walks 80
Kawazu 97 trains to 174 Toyko Street Finder 176–85
Kazoku (class) 28 Kyu Furukawa Teien 74, 75 Ueno Park 50–51
Kegon Falls 89 Kyu Yasuda Teien 76 West Shinjuku street-by-street
Kencho-ji Temple (Kamakura) 94, Kyudo 20, 21 64–5
157 Kyushu Island 23, 25, 26, 27 Western Tokyo 61
Kendo 20, 21, 148 L Yanaka 82–3
Kenzo Tange Yokohama 91
Fuji TV Building 16, 85 LaForet Building 67, 142, Mark City 142, 143
Olympic Pavilions 17, 66 143 Markets 139, 141
St Mary’s Cathedral 16 Lakes see by name Ameyoko Market 13, 56
Shinjuku Park Tower 16 Landmark Tower (Yokohama) Flea markets 77, 139, 141, 143
Tokyo Metropolitan Government 90 Kochi street market 127
Offices 36, 64 Landscape prints 57 Oedo Market 139, 141
Yokohama Museum of Art 91 Language 161 Oriental Bazaar 12, 67, 139, 140,
Kiddyland 10, 145 phrase book 200–204 141, 143
Kimonos pronunciation guide 200 Tomioka-Hachimangu Shrine
shopping for 143 Laox 47, 138 Market 141
Tokyo National Museum 52 Le Corbusier 51 Toyosu Fish Market 77
Kinokuniya 62 Le Fuente 79 Tsukiji Fish Market 12, 42, 122,
Kira, Lord 78 League of Nations 28 123, 139
Kirin Beer Village (Yokohama) 91 Lining up 161 Marquetry, yosegi-zaiku 96, 97
Kishimojin-do Temple 75 Live music 147, 149 Martial arts 20–21, 148, 149
Kiso River 47 Local telephone calls 166 aikido 21
Kita Kamakura 92, 94 Lost property 162–3 judo 21, 148
Kita-in Temple (Kawagoe) 90 Love hotels 109, 114 karate 21, 148




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GENER AL INDEX  191


Martial art (cont.) Monks, Buddhist Museums and galleries (cont.)
kendo 20, 21, 148 Saicho 24 Karakuri Museum 140, 141
kyudo 20, 21 Shodo Shonin 100, 101 Kite Museum 44
Nippon Budokan 12, 46, 147, Monolith Building 65 Kura-Zukuri Shiryokan (Kawagoe)
148, 149 Monorail 170, 171 90
Marui Jam Department Store 69 to/from airport 169 Miraikan see National Museum of
Marunouchi Building 44, 139, 141 Yurikamome Line 77, 84, 85, 170, Emerging Science and
Marunouchi District 12, 13, 44 171 Innovation
Masks Morel, Edmund 91 Mitsui Memorial Museum 44
face 160 Mori Art Museum 13, 71 Mori Art Museum 13, 71
Noh 18 Mori Tower 71 Narukawa Art Museum (Hakone)
Rikishi 52 Morning Glory Fair 31 97
Matisse, Henri 57 Moronobu 57 National Art Center 13, 71
Matsuri see Festivals Mosquitoes 163 National Museum of Emerging
Matsuya 41, 139, 140, 141 Moto-Hakone 97 Science and Innovation 10, 13,
Meals and meal times 116 Motosu, Lake 98 77, 84–5
breakfast 116, 124 Mount Fuji 82, 86, 87, 98–9, National Museum of Japanese
The Japanese meal 124 154–5 History (Narita) 90
Media 166, 167 in art 99 National Museum of Modern Art
Medical services 163 eruption 26 12, 13, 46
Mega Web 77, 84 hotels 115 National Museum of Nature and
Meigetsu-in Temple (Kamakura) Mount Mitake 96 Science 51
94 Mount Nantai 100 National Museum of Western Art
Meiji, Emperor 42 Mount Takao 96 51
Meiji Shrine 66 Multi-purpose complexes 139, 141 Nezu Museum 11, 12, 70
Meiji Constitution (1889) 28 Murasaki Shikibu 53 NYK Maritime Museum
Meiji restoration 28 The Tale of Genji 24 (Yokohama) 91
Meiji Seimeikan Building 44 Muromachi Shogunate 25 Ocha no Sato museum (Kanaya)
Meiji Shrine 12, 13, 17, 66 Museums and galleries 97
Spring Festival 2–3, 30 admission fees and opening Science Museum 46
Meiji University 46, 81 hours 157 Sengaku-ji Temple museum 78
Meiji-Jingu Gyoen Garden 66 ADMT (Advertising Museum of Shin Yokohama Ramen Museum
iris viewing 31 Tokyo) 13, 43 (Yokohama) 91
Menus Ancient Orient Museum 74 Shitamachi Museum 13, 50, 56
bento boxes 125 Archeological Museum of Meiji Shizuoka Museum 97
categories 121 University 81 Sumo Museum 76
reading 120–21 Art Front Gallery 78–9 Suntory Museum of Art 13, 71
sushi and sashimi 126–7 Asakura Choso Museum 82 Sword Museum 65
Metro see Subway; Tokyo Metro Boso no Mura (Narita) 90 Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum
Mikimoto 41 Bunka Gakuen Costume 50
Mikoshi (portable shrines) 30, 31 Museum 65 Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of
Minami-Aoyama District 36, 61, 70 Crafts Gallery (Museum of Photography 78
Minami-ike Shobuda 66 Modern Art) 12, 13, 46 Tokyo National Museum 11, 13,
Minamoto clan 24, 25 Criminal Museum 81 37, 50, 52–5
Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine Daimyo Clock Museum 83 Tokyo Station Gallery 44
(Kamakura) 92 Design Festa Gallery 67 Tosho-gu Museum of Art (Nikko)
Minamoto no Yoritomo 24–5 Drum Museum 12, 56 101
Minamoto no Yoshitsune 24 Edo-Tokyo Museum 13, 76 Treasure Museum (Meiji Shrine)
Minato Mirai 21 (Yokohama) Fukagawa Edo Museum 66
89, 90 13, 76 Treasure Museum Annex (Meiji
Minor hazards 163 Ghibli Museum 147, 149 Shrine) 66
Minshuku (guesthouses) 108, 111, Ginza Yokyo Hall 40 Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum
114–15 Goto Art Museum 79 of Art 13, 67
Miraikan see National Museum of Hakone Art Museum 96, 97 Urushi Museum (Nikko) 101
Emerging Science and Hakone Open-Air Museum 96, Watari-um (Watari Museum of
Innovation 97 Contemporary Art) 70
Mishima, Yukio 70 History Garage Museum 84 Yebisu Beer Museum 78
Mitsui Memorial Museum 44 Idemitsu Museum of Arts 45 Yokami Gallery 76
Mitsukoshi 12, 41, 44, 138, Isetan Art Museum 63 Yokohama Museum of Art 91
141, 142 Japan Folk Crafts Museum 11, Yushukan 46
Miyazaki, Hayao 147 79, 140, 141 Zoshigaya Missionary Museum
Mobile phones 166 Japanese Archeology Gallery 75
Modern architecture 16–17 (Tokyo National Museum) 55 Music
Momoyama period 26 Kamakura National Treasure gagaku 150, 151
Money 164–5 House Museum 92 Karaoke 147, 149
Mongol invasions 25 Kanda Myojin Shrine museum 47 live 147, 149




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192  GENER AL INDEX


Music (cont.) Nibbles 120 Odaiba Marine Park 77, 85
shops 140, 141 Nichiren Buddhism 25 Odo Nobunaga 25, 26
traditional 151 Nightlife 152–3 Oedo Market 139, 141
see also Enterainment clubs and bars 152, 153 Oedo Onsen Monogatari 13, 77, 85
Myohon-ji Temple (Kamakura) 92 DJ and dance clubs 152–3 Oeshiki Festival 32
gay and lesbian 153 Ogurayama Park (Nikko) 101
N high-rise bars 152, 153 Oigawa Steam Railroad 97
Nabe 118 see also Entertainment Okinawa 23
Nade Botokesan Buddha (Senso-ji Nigiri-zushi 126 Okonomiyaki 123
Temple) 59 Nihon Buyo Kyokai 151 Okuni, Izumo no 19
Nagai, Kafu 75 Nihon University 46 Okutama 96
Nagasaki 26, 27, 29 Nihonbashi Bridge 12, 44, 76 Olympic Games (1964) 29, 46, 67,
Nagashino, Battle of 26 Nihonbashi District 12, 39, 44 68, 75
Nagatoro 96 Nihonbashi River 44 Olympic Games (2020) 66, 77
Nagkin Capsule Tower 43 Nihondaira plateau 97 Olympic Pavilions 17, 66
Nakajima Teahouse 43 Nijubashi Bridge 38, 45 Olympic Stadiums 61, 66
Nakamise-dori 58, 143 Nikko 87, 100–105 Olympic Village 67
Names, Japanese 161 hotels 115 Omotesando 12, 13, 67, 138
Namiki-dori 40 map 100 Omotesando Hills 67, 139, 141
Namiyoke Inari Jinja Shrine 12, 42 restaurants 136, 137 Omu-raisu 119
Nara 23, 52 Taiyuin-byo Shrine 104–5 Onin war 25
Narita 87, 90 Tosho-gu Shrine 102–3 Onnagata 19
hotels 112 trains to 174 Opening hours 157
trains to 174 Nikko Botanical Gardens 101 Oriental Bazaar 67, 139, 140, 141,
Narita Airport 168, 169 Nikko National Park 89, 101 143
Narita-san Shinsho-ji Temple Nikolai Cathedral 81 itineraries 12
(Narita) 87, 90 Ningyo-Kuyo 32 Osaka 26
Narukawa Art Museum (Hakone) Ninomaru Garden 45 trains to 174
97 Niomon Gate (Gokoku-ji Temple) Osanbashi Pier (Yokohama) 91
National Art Center 13, 71 75 Oshogatsu 33
National Film Center 44, 147 Niomon Gate (Taiyuin-byo Shrine, Otemon 45
National Museum of Emerging Nikko) 104 Otorii (Meiji Shrine) 66
Science and Innovation Niomon Gate (Tosho-gu Shrine, Owaku-dani (Hakone) 96–7
(Miraikan) 10, 13, 77, 84–5 Nikko) 102 Oya Shobo 46
National Museum of Japanese Nippara caves 96
History (Narita) 90 Nippon Budokan 12, 46, 147, 148, P
National Museum of Modern Art 149 Pachinko 69, 148, 149
12, 13, 46 Niten-mon Gate (Senso-ji Temple) Center Gai 68
National Museum of Nature and 58 East Shinjuku 36, 61, 62
Science 51 Nitenmon Gate (Taiyuin-byo Pagodas
National Museum of Western Art Shrine, Nikko) 105 Five Story Pagoda (Senso-ji
51 Nobunaga see Odo Nobunaga Temple) 58
National Parks Noh 18, 25 Five Story Pagoda (Tosho-gu
Chichibu-Tama-Kai National Park masks 18 Shrine, Nikko) 103
87, 96 Noh National Theater 150, 151 Five Story Pagoda (Ueno Park)
Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park 86 Tokyo National Museum 52–3 50–51
Nikko National Park 89, 101 Nomura Building 65 Great Buddhist Pagoda (Ueno
National Sumo Stadium see Noodle dishes 120 Park) 50
Ryogoku Sumo Hall Northern Tokyo 48–59 Three Story Pagoda (Sankei-en
National Theater 150, 151 area map 49 Garden, Yokohama) 91
National Treasures 95 hotels 112–15 Two Story Pagoda (Gokoku-ji
Noh masks 18 restaurants 131–2 Temple) 75
Shariden (Kamakura) 94, 95 NS Building 64 Palette Town 77, 84
Tale of Genji (Fujiwara Takayoshi) NTT Docomo Building 16 Paper arts 83
79 NYK Maritime Museum Parks and gardens
Tokyo National Gallery 13, 53 (Yokohama) 91 Arakawa Nature Park 75
Natsume, Soseki 75 Arakawa Yuen Park 75
Natural disasters 162, 163 O Chidorigafuchi (Kitanomaru Park)
Netsuke 140 O-Bon 31, 156 46
New Year’s Day 33 Oak Omotesando Building 67 East Garden of the Imperial
Newspapers and magazines 167 Ocha no Sato museum (Kanaya) Palace 12, 45
information sources 146, 149, 97 Garden of Dembo-in 58
157 Ochanomizu District 80, 81 Hama-rikyu Gardens 11, 12, 13,
Nezu Museum 11, 12, 70 Odaiba 13, 16, 77, 80 42–3
Nezu Shrine 30, 83 A 90-Minute Walk in 84–5 Hibiya Park 11, 45
NHK Studio Park 10, 66 map 84–5 Horikiri Iris Garden 31




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GENER AL INDEX  193


Parks and gardens (cont.) Public telephones 166 Rice wine 128, 129
Imperial Palace Garden 11, 45 Public transport 170–71 Rice-bowl dishes 120
Kitanomaru Park 12, 46 buses 170 Rickshaws 170, 171
Kiyosumi Teien Garden 13, 76–7 monorail 170 Rikishi (sumo wrestlers) 20
Koishikawa Botanical Gardens railway network 172–3 masks 52
101 rickshaws 170, 171 Rikugi-en Garden 74
Koishikawa Korakuen Garden 13, subway 172–3 Rinno-ji Temple (Nikko) 100–101
47 taxis 171 Rinzo (Tosho-gu Shrine, Nikko) 102
Kyu Furukawa Teien 74, 75 trams 170–71 Rodin, Auguste, Gate of Hell 51
Kyu Yasuda Teien 76 water buses 170 Ronin (masterless samurai) 26, 27,
Meiji-Jingu Gyoen Garden 66 Puppets, Bunraku 18, 19, 27, 150 78
Minami-ike Shobuda 66 Pure-land Buddhism 24, 25, 26 Roppongi District 13, 16, 61,
Nikko Botanical Garden 101 70–71
Ninomaru Garden 45 R nightlife 152
Odaiba Marine Park 77, 85 Racket Fair 33 safety 162
Ogurayama Park (Nikko) 101 Radio 167 Roppongi Hills 71, 139
Rikugi-en Garden 74 Radio Kaikan 47 Rubens, Peter Paul 51
Sankei-en Garden (Yokohama) 91 Rail travel 172–3 Rugby 148
Shiba Park 12, 43 beyond Tokyo 174–5 Russo-Japanese War 28, 67
Shin Edogawa Garden 75 bullet trains 29, 154–5, 174–5 Ryogoku District 13, 73, 76
Shinjuku-Gyoen Garden 11, 32 Oigawa Steam Railroad 97 Ryogoku Sumo Hall 13, 21, 76,
Shiokaze Park 85 on-board facilities 175 148, 149
Ueno Park 13, 32, 37, 50–51 passes 175 Ryokan 108, 110–11, 115
Wadakura Fountain Park 44 private lines 172, 174 arriving at a ryokan 110
Yamashita Park (Yokohama) 91 routes and fares 172–3 bathing arrangements 111
Yokoamicho Park 76 station signs and facilities 174–5 eating arrangements 111
Yoyogi Park 12, 66 to/from airports 168, 169 meals 116
see also National Parks; Theme Tokyo Station 11, 12, 13, 172, 174 wearing yukata 110–11
parks Rainbow Bridge 43, 77, 85 what is a ryokan? 110
Pasmo card 170, 173 Rainfall 32, 156
Passes Ramen 119, 120, 122 S
Japan Rail Pass 168, 175 Regional cuisine 123 Sacred Fountain (Tosho-gu Shrine,
other rail passes 175 Reservations Nikko) 102
Pasmo card 170, 173 hotels 108 Sacred Stable (Tosho-gu Shrine,
Suica card 170, 173 restaurants 116 Nikko) 103
Passports 156–7, 159 Respect 160 Safety
carrying 162 Responsible tourism 159 personal security 162–3
lost/stolen 163 Restaurants 116–37 travel safety advice 157, 159
Pearl Harbor 29 Beyond Tokyo 136–7 Sai, Lake 98
Pensions 111, 114–15 Central Tokyo 130–31 Saicho 24
Performing arts, traditional 150–51 entering a restaurant or bar 117 Saigo Takamori, statue 51
Perry, Commodore Matthew 27 Farther Afield 134–5 St Mary’s Cathedral 16
Personal security 162–3 Flavors of Japan 122–3 Sake 128, 129
Pharmacies 163 food customs, etiquette, and shops 144, 145
Phrase book 200–204 taboos 117 Sakhalin 23
Physical contact, attitudes to 160 Izakaya and dining bars 118 Sales tax 138
Pickpockets 162 The Japanese meal 124 Samba Festival 31
Planetarium (Sunshine 60) 74 kaiseki ryori 118 Samurai
Plum viewing 33 meals and meal times 116 history 25, 27, 28
Police 162, 163 noodle 119 Kamakura 94
Politeness 160 Northern Tokyo 131–2 martial arts 20–21
Pollock, Jackson 51 other Asian 119 Sengaku-ji Temple 78
Portable shrines 30, 31 prices and paying 116 San’ai Building 41
Portsmouth, Treaty of 28 reading the menu 120–21 Sanbutsu-do (Rinno-ji Temple,
Portuguese traders 25, 26, 27 recommended 117, 130–37 Nikko) 100
Postal services 167 reservations and dress code 116 Sanja Matsuri 30
Prada Aoyama 12, 16, 70, 142, 143 set menus 116 Sankei-en Garden (Yokohama) 91
Prices speciality 118 Sanmon Gate (Kencho-ji Temple,
accommodation 108 sushi and sashimi 118, 126–7 Kamakura) 94, 95
admissions 157 tipping 116 Sanmon Gate (Zojo-ji Temple) 17,
restaurants 116 types of 118–19 43
shopping 138 vegetarian food 119 Sanno Matsuri 71
Printemps 41 Western 119 Sanno-Sai 31
Private railway lines 172, 174, 175 Western Tokyo 132–4 Sannomaru Shozokan 45
Public conveniences 158 what to drink in Tokyo 128–9 Sashimi 126–7
Public holidays 33 Rice crackers 120 health and safety 163




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194  GENER AL INDEX


Satin Doll 71 Shinsho-ji Temple 74 Shrines (cont.)
Satsuma 27 Shinto etiquette 161
Science Museum 46 architecture 17, 66 Asakusa Jinja 58–9
Sea of Trees (Mount Fuji) 98 in Nikko 100 Futara-san (Nikko) 101
Seasons 30–33, 156 religion 28, 46 Gojoten 50
Seating, traditional 116, 117 rites 18, 20 Hanazono 63, 139
Sega Joyopolis 85 Shiodome 13, 43, 139 Hie Jinja 31, 71
Sei Shonagon 24 Shiodome City Center 43 Kamakura-gu (Kamakura) 150
Seibu 40 Shiodome Media Tower 43 Kanda Matsuri 47
Seijin no hi 33 Shiokaze Park 85 Kanda Myojin 13, 33, 47, 81
Seki-sho Barrier Gate (Hakone- Shirakawa, Emperor 24 Kunozan Tosho-gu (Shizuoka)
machi) 97 Shitamachi 36, 49, 76, 81 97
Sekigahara, Battle of 26 Shitamachi Museum 13, 50, 56 Meiji 12, 13, 17, 31, 66
Senbutsu-jo (Engaku-ji Temple, Shizuoka 97 Namiyoke Inari Jinja 12, 42
Kamakura) 95 Shodo Shonin (Buddhist priest) Nezu 30, 83
Sengaku-ji museum 78 100, 101 portable 30, 31
Sengaku-ji Temple 78 Shoes, etiquette 161 Sengen Jinja (Mount Fuji) 99
Sengen Jinja Shrine (Mount Fuji) Shogun (Clavell) 27, 97 Shinto 20–21
99 Shoguns see by name Shrine of Peace for the Nation
Senior travelers 158 Shoji, Lake 98 see Yasukuni
Seniors, respect for 160 Shojin ryori (vegetarian temple Suwa 82
Senso-ji Temple 12, 13, 32, 37, cuisine) 111, 119, 122 Taiyuin-byo (Nikko) 101, 104–5
58–9 Shokai 58 Takinoo (Nikko) 101
festivals 30, 33 Shoken, Empress 66 Teppozu Inari 33
Set meals/menus 116, 121 Shopping 138–45 Togo 67
Setsubun 33 antique stores 139 Tomioka Hachiman-gu 77, 139,
Seven-Five-Three Children’s arcades and malls 139 141
Festival 32 books, music, and manga 140, Tosho-gu 50
Sex, attitudes to 160 141 Tosho-gu (Nikko) 101, 102–3
Shakuhachi 151 clothing 142–3, 156 Toyokawa Inari 71
Shamisen music 19, 151 contemporary art and design Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu
Sharaku 27, 67 140, 141 (Kamakura) 32, 87, 92
Shariden (Shozoku-in subtemple, convenience stores and vending Yasukuni 12, 46
Kamakura) 94, 95 machines 139 Yushima Tenjin 32, 33, 81
Shiba Park 12, 43 cosmetics, jewelry, and Zeni-Arai Benten (Kamakura) 94
Shibuya 12, 34–5, 36, 61, 138 accessories 140, 141 Shuzenji 97
nightlife 152 department stores 138–9, 141 Sino-Japanese Wars 28–9
street-by-street 68–9 fashion buildings 142, 143 Sleeping Cat Carving (Hidari
Shibuya 109 142, 143 flea markets 139, 141, 143 Jingoro) 102
Shichi-Go-San 32 flea markets (Fukagawa) 77 Smart cards 173
Shihonryu-ji Temple see Rinno-ji food and drinks 119, 144, 145 Smoking 160
Temple (Nikko) gadgets and gizmos 144–5 in restaurants 117
Shijo, Emperor 25 gift shops 144, 145 Snacks, izakaya 121
Shikoku region 26, 27 markets 139 Snow-viewing Temple see Joko-ji
Shimoda 97 menswear 142–3 Temple
hotels 115 multi-purpose complexes 139, Soccer 148, 149
restaurants 137 141 Soft drinks 128
Shimokitazawa 79 opening hours 157 Sony Showroom 12, 40
Shin Edogawa Garden 75 prices and sales tax 138 Sorinto 101
Shin Yokohama Ramen Museum shopping zones 138 Sorinto (Rinno-ji Temple, Nikko)
(Yokohama) 91 specialty shops 140, 141 100
Shinbashi Enbujo 150 tax-free shopping 138 Spanish traders 27
Shingon Buddhism 24 textiles and kimonos 143 Specialty restaurants 118
Shinjuku 36, 61, 62–5, 138 toys 145 Specialty shops 140, 141
East Shinjuku 62–3 traditional arts and crafts 140, Spectator sports 148, 149
itineraries 12, 13 141 Spiral Building 70
nightlife 152 women’s fashions 142, 143 Spirits 129
skyscrapers 16–17 Shotoku, Prince 23 Sports
West Shinjuku 64–5 Showa, Emperor 45 spectator 148, 149
Shinjuku Gyoen Garden 11, 32 Shoyoen (Rinno-ji Temple, Nikko) see also Martial arts; Sumo
Shinjuku Park Tower 16 101 Spring in Tokyo 30
Shinjuku Station 65 Shozoku-in subtemple (Kamakura) Stadiums
Shinkansen (bullet trains) 29, 154– 94, 95 National Sumo Stadium see
5, 174–5 Shrines Ryogoku Sumo Hall
Shinkyo Bridge (Nikko) 100 admission prices and opening Nippon Budokan 46, 147,
Shinobazu Pond (Ueno Park) 50 hours 157 149




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GENER AL INDEX  195


Stadiums (cont.) Sushi Gotoku 11 Temples (cont.)
Olympic Pavilions/Stadiums 17, Suwa Shrine 82 Kishimojin-do 75
66 Suzuki Harunobu 57 Kita-in (Kawagoe) 90
Ryogoku Sumo Hall 13, 21, 76, Sweet shops 140, 144 Kogan-ji 74
148, 149 Swimming 148 Kyomizu Kannon-do 32
sporting events 148, 149 Sword Museum 65 Kyoo-ji 82
Tokyo Dome Stadium 147 Layout of a Zen Buddhist Temple
Star Festival 31 T 95
Starck, Philippe 16 Taboos 160 Meigetsu-in (Kamakura) 94
Stations Tadao Ando 16, 67 Myohon-ji (Kamakura) 92
Shinjuku Station 65 Taiho code 23 Narita-san Shinsho-ji (Narita) 87,
signs and facilities 174–5 Taiko drums 151 90
Tokyo Station 11, 12, 13, 44, 172, Taira clan 24, 25 Rinno-ji (Nikko) 100–101
174 Taira Kiyomori 24, 25 Sengaku-ji 78
Statues Taiyuin-byo Shrine (Nikko) 104–5 Senso-ji 12, 13, 32, 33, 37, 58–9
Basho 26 Takashimaya 11, 138, 139, 141 Shinsho-ji 74
Flame of Freedom 84 Takeshita-dori 12, 67, 140 Shozoku-in subtemple
Great Buddha (Kamakura) 92 Takigi Noh 150 (Kamakura) 94, 95
Guardian statues (Taiyuin-byo Takinoo Shrine (Nikko) 101 Sugimoto-dera (Kamakura) 93
Shrine, Nikko) 105 The Tale of Genji (Fujiwara Tenno-ji 80, 82
Hachiko 69 Takayoshi scrolls) 79 Toji 24
Saigo Takamori 51 The Tale of Genji (Murasaki Shikibu) Tokei-ji (Kamakura) 94
Statue of Liberty (replica) 85 24, 53 Yofuku-ji 82
Yasha (Taiyuin-byo Shrine, Nikko) Tale of the Heike 25 Yushima Seido 81
105 Tanabata Matsuri 31 Zensho-en 83
Stock Market 28 Tanegashima Island 25 Zojo-ji 12, 17, 43
Stolen property 162–3 Taniguchi Yoshio 52 Zuisen-ji (Kamakura) 93
Stomach upsets 163 Tanuki (badger) 119 Temporary visitors 156–7
Stream of Starlight 84 Tatami mats 110, 116, 117, 161 Tempura 123
Stubbins, Hugh 90 Tatsuno, Kingo 44 Tenmei famine 27
Student travelers 158 Tax-free shopping 138 Tennis 148
Studio Alta 62 Taxes 116, 138, 161 Tenno-ji Temple 80, 82
Subashiri trail (Mount Fuji) 99 Taxis 171 Teppozu Inari Shrine 33
Subway 172–3 hybrid cars 170 Textiles 143
map see back endpaper to/from airports 168, 169 Theater, international 147, 149
routes and fares 172–3 Tayasumon 46 Theater, Japanese traditional
Sugamo 74 Tea 18–19
Sugi-namiki (Japanese cedar Ocha no Sato museum (Kanaya) Bunraku 18, 19, 27, 150
avenue) (Tosho-gu Shrine, 97 Kabuki 18, 19, 27, 52–3, 150,
Nikko) 102 What to Drink in Tokyo 128 151
Sugimoto-dera Temple (Kamakura) Teishoku 116 Kyogen 18, 150
93 Telephones 166, 167 Noh 18, 25, 52–3, 150, 151
Suica card 170, 173 Television 167 performances 150–51
Suiko, Empress 23 Temperatures 33, 156 Theaters 147
Sumida River 29, 31, 39, 42, 76 Temples Honda Theater 79
water bus 12, 170, 171 accommodation 111 Imperial Theater 44
Sumitomo Building 17, 64 admission prices 157 Kabuki-za Theater 12, 42, 150,
Summer Sumo Tournament 30 etiquette 161 151
Summer in Tokyo 31 opening hours 157 National Theater 150, 151
Sumo Butsunichian subtemple Noh National Theater 150, 151
basho 148 (Kamakura) 95 reconstructed Kabuki theater
beya 148, 149 Daien-ji 83 (Edo-Tokyo Museum) 76
festivals 30 Engaku-ji (Kamakura) 94, 95 Tokyo Metropolitan Theater 74
Ryogoku Sumo Hall 13, 21, 76, Gokoku-ji 17, 75 see also Enterainment
148, 149 Hase-dera (Kamakura) 92 Theme parks 158
Sumo Museum 76 Hokoku-ji (Kamakura) 92 Oedo Onsen Monogatari 77, 85
tournaments 20, 21, 30, 148, 149 Horyu-ji (near Nara) 52 Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fiji
Sumo Museum 76 Iriya Kishibojin 31 (Hiroshige) 99
Sunshine 31 Jochi-ji (Kamakura) 94 Thirty-Six Views of Mount Fiji
Sunshine 60 74 Jokan-ji 75 (Hokusai) 27, 99
Sunshine City 74 Joko-ji 82 Tickets
Suntory Museum of Art 13, 71 Jomyo-ji (Kamakura) 94 baseball and soccer 148
SuperDeluxe 147 Jufuku-ji (Kamakura) 94 entertainment 146, 149, 157
Sushi 121, 126–7 Kanei-ji 50, 51 public transport 170
health and safety 163 Kantei-byo (Yokohama) 91 rail travel 168, 173, 175
restaurants 117, 118 Kencho-ji (Kamakura) 94, 157 smart cards 173




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196  GENER AL INDEX


Tickets (cont.) Tokyo Midtown 139, 141 Travel information (cont.)
sumo tournaments 148 Tokyo National Museum 13, 37, 50, getting around Tokyo 170–71
traditional theater 150 52–5 public transport 170–71
Time zone 158 Gallery of Horyu-Ji Treasures 52 rail travel 172–3
Tipping 161 Heiseikan 52, 55 subway 172–3
in restaurants 116 Honkan 52–3 travel safety advice 157, 159
Toei Subway 172, 173 shop 52, 143 traveling beyond Tokyo 89,
Togenuki Jizo (thorn-removing Toyokan 52, 54 174–5
deity) 74 Tokyo New International Airport Travel insurance 163
Togo, Admiral 67 see Narita Airport Traveler’s checks 165
Togo Shrine 67 Tokyo Olympics see Olympic Treasure Hall (Rinno-ji Temple,
Toho Cinema Complex 62, 147, Games Nikko) 100
149 Tokyo Opera City Gallery 140, 141 Treasure Museum (Meiji Shrine) 66
Toi 97 Tokyo Opera City Tower 16 Treasure Museum Annex (Meiji
Toilets 158 Tokyo Regional Immigration Shrine) 66
on trains 175 Bureau 156, 159 Tsukenkyo Bridge 13, 47
Toji Temple 24 Tokyo SkyTree 12, 43, 48, 56 Tsukiji Fish Market 12, 42, 122, 123,
Tojo, Hideki 46, 74 Tokyo Station 11, 12, 13, 44, 172, 139
Tokaido Road 62, 90, 97 174 Tsunami (2011) 29
Tokei-ji Temple (Kamakura) 94 Tokyo Station Gallery 44 Tsurugaoka Hachiman-gu Shrine
Toki-no-kane (wooden bell tower, Tokyo Stock Exchange 44 (Kamakura) 87, 92
Kawagoe) 90 Tokyo Tour Ticket 173 festivals 32
Tokimune 94, 95 Tokyo Tower 12, 43 Tsushima, Battle of 67
Tokugawa clan Tokyu Hands 139, 140, 141, 144, Tuna fish 77
Koishikawa Korakuen Garden 47 145 Turf wars 26
Nikko 100 itineraries 11 Typhoons 162
Zojo-ji 43 street-by-street map 68
Tokugawa Iemitsu 45 Tolman Collection 140 U
Joko-ji Temple 82 Tomb of the Shogi Tai 50 Udon 119
Taiyuin-byo Shrine (Nikko) 104 Tomioka Hachiman-gu Shrine 77, Ueno, Battle of 49, 50
Tosho-gu Shrine (Nikko) 139 Ueno Park 13, 37, 50–51
100, 102 Tomioka Hachiman-gu Shrine
Tokugawa Ietsuna 71 Market 141 Shitamachi Museum 56
Tokyo National Museum 52–5
Tokugawa Ieyasu 26–7, 103 Tomitaro Hara 91 Ueno Zoo 50
Imperial Palace 45 Tonkatsu 118
Nikko 87 Toro ruins (Shizuoka) 97 Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Museum of
Art 13, 67
Senso-ji Temple 58 Tosa 27 Ukiyo-e wood-block prints 27
Shizuoka 97 Tosho-gu Shrine 50
Tosho-gu Shrine 50 Tosho-gu Shrine (Nikko) 101, Edo-Tokyo Museum 76
Tosho-gu Shrine (Nikko) 100, 102–3 The Floating World of Ukiyo-e 57
102, 103 Tosho-gu Treasure Hall and Tokyo National Museum 53
Ueno Park 50 Museum of Art (Nikko) 101 Umbrella shops 140
Tokugawa Shogunate 26–7 Tourist information 157, 159 Unadon (grilled eel dish)
Tokyo Anime Center 10, 13, 47 Tourist Information Center (TIC) 120, 122
Tokyo Bay 42, 77 148, 157, 159 United States, history 27, 29
Tokyo Big Sight 10, 77, 84 Narita Airport 168, 169 Universities
events 30 Tower Records 69, 140, 141, 146 Chuo University 46
Tokyo City View 71 Toyokan (Asian Gallery) (Tokyo Meiji University 46, 81
Tokyo Designer’s Week 32 National Museum) 52, 54 Nihon University 46
Tokyo Dome 10, 147, 148, 149 Toyokawa Inari Shrine 71 University of Tokyo 101
Tokyo Game Show 32 Toyosu District 13, 42 Urushi Museum (Nikko) 101
Tokyo International Airport see Toyosu Fish Market 77 US-Japan Security Treaty 29
Haneda Airport Toyota Amlux 74 Utamaro, Kitagawa 27, 57
Tokyo International Film Festival Toyota City Showcase 84 V
32, 146 Toyotomi Hideyoshi 26
Tokyo International Forum 10, 13, Toyshops 145 Van Gogh, Vincent 57
17, 45, 147 Trains see Rail travel Vegetarian food 119
Tokyo Jidai Matsuri 32 Trams 170–71 Vending machines 139
Tokyo Metro 172, 173 Arakawa Tram Line 75, 170–71, rail tickets 173
Tokyo Metropolitan Art Museum 171 Venus Fort 77, 84, 142, 143
50 Translation services, emergency Vietnamese Ceramics (Tokyo
Tokyo Metropolitan Government 162, 163 National Museum) 54
Offices 10–11, 13, 16–17, 60, 64 Travel information 168–75 Viñoly, Raphael 17, 45
Tokyo Metropolitan Museum of air travel 168–9 Visas 156–7, 159
Photography 78 bullet trains 174–5 Volcanoes 162
Tokyo Metropolitan Theatre 74 commuter culture 173 Volleyball 148



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GENER AL INDEX  197

W World War II (cont.) Yokohama (cont.)
Wadakura Fountain Park 44 Sugamo Prison 74 restaurants 136, 137
Wakamiya-oji (Kamakura) 92 Yasukuni Shrine 46 trains to 174
Wako department store 41, 139, Yokohama 90 Yokohama Bay Bridge 90, 91
141 Wrestling, Sumo see Sumo Yokohama Museum of Art 91
Walking Wright, Frank Lloyd 74 Yomeimon Gate (Tosho-gu Shrine,
A 45-Minute Walk from the High Nikko) 102
to Low City 81 X Yon-chome crossing 40, 41
A 90-Minute Walk in Odaiba Xenophobia 27 Yosegi-zaiku marquetry 96, 97
84–5 Yoshida, Shigeru 70
A 90-Minute Walk in Yanaka Y Yoshimasa, Ashikaga 25
82–3 Yabusame (horseback archery) 30, Yoshitoshi, Taiso 18
getting around Tokyo 171 32 Yoshiwara pleasure district 58,
Mount Fuki and Fuji Five Lakes Yakitori (chicken skewers) 118, 75
98–9 121 Youth hostels 109, 114–15
Three Guided Walks 80–85 Yakiudon (noodle dish) 123 Yoyogi Park 12, 66
tours 171 Yamanaka, Lake 99 Yukata (traditional robes) 76, 110–
Washington Hotel 64 Yamanote Hills 80, 81 11, 143
Watanabe, Makoto Sei 17 Yamashita Park (Yokohama) 91 Yurikamome Line 77, 84, 85, 170,
Watari-um (Watari Museum of Yamatai 23 171
Contemporary Art) 70 Yamato plain 23 Yurakucho Center Building 40
Water, drinking 163 Yanagi Sosetsu 79 Yushima Seido Temple 81
Water bus 12, 170, 171 Yanagisawa Yoshiyasu 74 Yushima Tenjin Shrine 32, 33, 81
Water purification rituals 33 Yanaka 13, 49, 80 Yushukan 46
Waters, Thomas 40 A 90-Minute Walk in 82–3
Websites 159 Yanaka Cemetery 82 Z
Wei Kingdom 23 Yanaka Ginza 82 Zabuton (cushion) 150
Weights and measures 159 Yanaka Kannon 83 Zashiki seating 116, 117
Welcome Card 157, 159 Yashamon Gate (Taiyuin-byo Zeami Motokiyo 18
West Shinjuku 36, 64–5 Shrine, Nikko) 105 Zen Buddhism 21, 25
Western restaurants 119 Yasuda Kasai Kaijo Building 65 Kamakura temples 94
Western Tokyo 60–71 Yasukuni Shrine 12, 46 temple layout 95
area map 61 Yasunari Kawabata 94, 97 Zeni-Arai Benten Shrine
hotels 112–14 Yayoi period 23 (Kamakura) 94
restaurants 132–4 Yebisu Beer Museum 78 Zensho-en Temple 83
Whiskey 129 Yofuku-ji Temple 82 Zhu Shunsui 47
WiFi 167 Yogodo Hall (Senso-ji Temple) 58 Zojo-ji Temple 12, 17, 43
Wine 129 Yohji Yamamoto 142 Zoos, Ueno Zoo 50
Winter in Tokyo 33 Yokami Gallery 76 Zoshigaya 75
Women travelers 162 Yokoamicho Park 76 Zoshigaya Cemetery 75
Women’s fashions 142, 143 Yokohama 87, 90–91 Zoshigaya Missionary Museum
World War II 28–9 hotels 113 75
Meiji Shrine 66 map 91 Zuisen-ji Temple (Kamakura) 93




























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198  A CKNOWLEDGMENT S

Acknowledgments

Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people Hayley Maher, Nicola Malone, Sonal Modha, George
whose help and assistance contributed to the preparation Nimmo, Scarlett O’Hara, Susie Peachey, Helen Peters,
of this book. Simon Richmond, Ellen Root, Sands Publishing
Solutions, Simon Scott, Ankita Sharma, Susana Smith,
Main Contributors Jaynan Spengler, Matthew Wilcox
Jon Burbank is a travel writer and photographer
who lives in Chiba prefecture, to the east of Tokyo, Additional Photography
with his family. Stephen Bere, Demetrio Carrasco, Katrina Grigg-Saito,
Martin Hladik, Ian O’Leary, Clive Streeter, Linda
Emi Kazuko is a writer and broadcaster who moved to Whitwam, Peter Wilson.
London from Japan in the 1980s. She is the author of
several books about the cuisine of her home country. Additional Illustrations
Gary Cross, John Fox, Nick Gibbard, David Harris, Kevin Jones
Stephen Mansfield is a British photo-journalist and Associates, Claire Littlejohn, Mel Pickering, John Woodcock.
author based in the Tokyo region. His work has
appeared in over 60 magazines, newspapers, and Special Assistance
journals world-wide, including The Geographical, South Bunka Gakuen Costume Museum; Dolce & Gabbana
China Morning Post, The Traveller, Japan Quarterly, and Showroom, Omotesando; Drum Museum; Goto Art
Insight Japan. He is a regular book reviewer for The Museum; Isetan Department Store; Isetatsu; Japan
Japan Times. His pieces cover a variety of subjects such Folk Craft Museum; Mikimoto, Ginza; Mitsu-koshi,
as travel, contemporary issues, and cultural and literary Mitsukoshimae; National Museum of Western Art;
themes. His photographs have appeared in several National Science Museum, Ueno; National Noh
books. He has authored eight books and is currently Theater; Shibuya 109; Sony Showroom, Ginza;
working on a book on the cultural history of Tokyo. He is Tosho-gu Museum of Art
also the author of Japan: Islands of the Floating World,
Birmanie: Le Temps Suspendu, and China: Yunnan Province. Picture Credits
a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left; r-right;
Robbie Swinnerton moved to Japan in 1980, impelled t-top.
by his fascination for sake, seaweed, and soba noodles,
plus all other aspects of the traditional Japanese diet The publisher would like to thank the following for
and culture. For the past 26 years, he has been based their kind permission to reproduce their photographs:
in Kamakura, balancing his life by the ocean in the old
Japanese capital with writing assignments around (Key: a-above; b-below/bottom; c-centre; f-far; l-left;
Japan and East Asia. While writing extensively on r-right; t-top)
foods of all flavors – his restaurant review column
Tokyo Food File has run in the Japan Times for over a 4Corners: Richard Taylor 38
decade – it is Japanese cuisine in all its intricate Alamy Images: Ablestock 144c; allOver photography
simplicity that remains his first and abiding love. 97tl; AM Corporation 31cl; Jon Arnold Images 17bl,
30cl, 32cra, 43t, 144bl; Peter Arnold, Inc. 18c; Koen
Design and Editorial Broker 106-107; Jonah Calinawan 143bc; Chromepix.
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Managing Editor Kathryn Lane 124cla, 137tr; Peter Horree 164cr; Alex Hunter 47ca;
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Project Art Editor Kate Leonard Iain Masterton 89tr, 147c; Megapress 21bc; MIXA
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Emma Anacootee-Parmar, Marta Bescos, Subhadeep The Bridgeman Art Library: Fuji in Clear Weather’,
Biswas, Emma Brady, Neha Chander, Imogen Corke, from the series ‘36 Views of Mt. Fuji’ (‘Fugaku
Surya Deogun, Stephen Forster, Emily Grigg-Saito, sanjurokkei’), pub. by Nishimura Eijudo, 1831 (hand-
Katrina Grigg-Saito, Mohammad Hassan, Sumita colored woodblock print) (see also 77485), Hokusai,
Khatwani, Priya Kukadia, Rupanki Kaushik, Jason Little, Katsushika (1760-1849) / British Museum, London,





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