(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Ireland

THE HIST OR Y OF IRELAND  49


Eamon De Valera (1882–1975)
After escaping execution for his part in the
Easter Rising, American-born de Valera went
on to dominate Irish politics for almost 60
years. The opposition of his party, Sinn Féin,
to the Anglo-Irish Treaty of 1921 plunged
the new Irish Free State into civil war. After
forming a new party,
Fianna Fáil, he became
Prime Minister
The General Post Office, Easter 1916 (Taoiseach) in
What was supposed to be a national uprising was 1932. De Valera
confined to 2,500 armed insurgents in Dublin. They remained in
managed to hold the GPO and other public office until 1948,
buildings for five days. with further
terms in the
1950s. Between
This Mauser rifle, smuggled in 1959 and 1973
from Germany in 1914, was he was President
used by rebels in the Rising. of Ireland.
Tom Clarke
James Connolly
Joseph
Plunkett




Mementos
of the Rising
at Dublin’s
Kilmainham
Gaol (see
p101) include
this crucifix made
by a British soldier
from rifle bullets.



Leaders of the 1916 Rising Election Poster
This collage portrait shows 14 leaders of the Easter Cumann na nGaedheal, the
Rising, who were all court-martialled and shot at pro-Treaty party in the Civil
Kilmainham Gaol. The brutality of their executions War, won the Free State’s first
(the badly injured James Connolly was tied to a chair general election in 1923. It
merged with other parties in
before being shot) changed public opinion of the 1933 to form Fine Gael.
Rising and guaranteed their status as martyrs.

1919 First Michael Collins (1890–1922), 1936 IRA proscribed by
meeting of the 1922 Irish Free State hero of the War of Independence, 1932 Fianna Fáil sweeps to Free State Government
independent inaugurated; Michael became chairman of the Irish victory in general election,
parliament Collins shot dead in Free State and Commander- and de Valera begins 1939 Éire declares
(Dáil Éireann) ambush in Co Cork in-Chief of the Army 16-year term as Taoiseach neutrality during
(Prime Minister) World War II
1920 1925 1930 1935
1926 De Valera quits 1937 New
1923 W B Sinn Féin; sets up 1933 Fine Gael constitution declares
Yeats wins Fianna Fáil (Soldiers 1929 Work starts on (United Ireland) complete
1921 Anglo-Irish Treaty signed; de Nobel Prize of Destiny) party River Shannon hydro- party formed to independence from
Valera resigns; southern Ireland in literature 1925 G B Shaw also electric power scheme oppose Fianna Fáil Britain; country’s
plunged into civil war receives Nobel Prize name changes to Éire




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50  INTRODUCING IRELAND

Modern Ireland

Since joining the European Economic Community (now the EU)
in 1973, the Irish Republic has done much to modernize its
traditional rural-based economy. There have been social 1972 Bloody Sunday –
changes too and divorce has become legalized. Meanwhile, British soldiers shoot dead
Northern Ireland has lived through more than 25 years of 13 demonstrators in Derry.
Northern Ireland
unrest. But recent peace agreements have brought new hope, Parliament is suspended
especially since the inauguration in 1998 of the Northern Ireland and direct rule from 1985 Barry McGuigan beats the
Westminster imposed
Assembly. The power-sharing Sinn Féin and DUP government is Panamanian, Eusebio Pedroza, for
addressing the final stumbling blocks of policing and justice. world featherweight boxing title
1976 Organizers
of the Ulster
Peace Movement,
Mairead Corrigan
and Betty
Williams, are
awarded the
Nobel Peace
Prize in Oslo
1969 Violent clashes between 1982 Rising debt
1956 IRA the police and demonstrators and unemploy-
launches a
1949 New government terrorism in Belfast and Derry. British ment lead to
under John A Costello. campaign along troops sent to restore order economic crisis
Country changes name the border with and instability.
from Éire to Republic of Northern Ireland 1967 Northern Ireland Civil Three elections are
Ireland and leaves which lasts Rights Association is set up held in two years
British Commonwealth to fight discrimination
until 1962 against Catholics
1940 1950 1960 1970 1980
1940 1950 1960 1970 1980
1973 The
Republic joins
1955 Republic
of Ireland joins the European
United Nations Economic
Com munity.
Membership
has given the
1959 Eamon de Valera country access
resigns as Taoiseach to much-needed
(Prime Min ister) and is development
later elected President grants
1979 Pope John Paul II
visits Ireland and celebrates
Mass in Dublin’s Phoenix
Park, in front of more than a
million people



1963 John F Kennedy, the first
American President of Irish Catholic
descent, visits Ireland. He is
pictured here with President
Eamon de Valera
1969 Samuel Beckett, seen here
rehearsing one of his own plays, is
awarded the Nobel Prize in
1947 Statue of Queen Victoria is
removed from the courtyard in front literature, but does not go to
of the Irish Parliament in Dublin Stockholm to receive it




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THE HIST OR Y OF IRELAND  51









1998 The Good Friday
Agreement sets out proposed
framework for self-government
1985 Barry McGuigan beats the in Northern Ireland
Panamanian, Eusebio Pedroza, for
world featherweight boxing title 2001 David Trimble resigns as first minister, but is later
re-elected. The beginning of a tortuous period of
1986 Bitter Loyalist suspended talks and return to Westminster’s direct rule
opposition follows the
previous year’s signing by the 2005 The IRA announces an end to its armed campaign,
British and Irish governments saying it will follow an exclusively democratic path
of the Anglo-Irish Agreement
2008 Padraig Harrington wins both the Open
1987 IRA Championship and the PGA Championship
bomb 1994 IRA and 2010 The Democratic Unionist Party and
explodes Unionist Sinn Féin reach agreement to allow full
during cease fires. transfer of police and justice powers from
Enniskillen’s Gerry Adams, London to Belfast
Remembrance Sinn Féin
Day parade, leader, 2011 Queen Elizabeth makes a historic state visit
killing 11 people allowed to Ireland, the first such visit by a British monarch
to speak
on British 2016 Commemorations of the 1916
radio and Rising take place across the country
television
1990 2000 2010 2020
1990 2000 2010 2020
2002 The single
European currency, 2015 Ireland becomes the first
the euro, replaces country in the world to approve
Irish punt notes same-sex marriage by popular vote
and coins
2014 President Michael D Higgins
1995 For the first time in makes a historic state visit to Britain,
25 years, there are no the first Irish Head of State to do so
troops on daylight patrols
in Northern Ireland 2013 President Obama visits Northern Ireland
1994 Republic of Ireland 2012 Katie Taylor wins a gold medal in boxing at the
football team reaches quarter London Olympics
finals of World Cup in the USA.
Here, Ray Houghton is 2011 Michael D Higgins inaugurated as
congratulated on scoring the 9th President of Ireland
winning goal against Italy
1991 Mary Robinson becomes first
female President of the Republic,
succeeded by Mary McAleese in 1998
1988 Dublin’s millennium is
celebrated, boosting the city’s image 2011 US President
Obama visits the
Republic of Ireland







1987 Dubliner Stephen Roche wins the Tour de 2005 Foreign ministers of the European
France, Giro d’Italia and World Championship in Union unanimously agree to make Irish
one incredible season an official language of the EU




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52  INTRODUCING IRELAND
IRELAND THROUGH THE YEAR


Popular months for visiting Ireland are July honour of everything from food to religion.
and August, and Belfast no longer closes A common thread is music, and few
down in July for the marching season. festivities are complete without musical
June and September can be pleasant but accom paniment. Ireland is at its best during
never count on the weather, for Ireland’s celebrations, so is an inspired choice for
lush beauty is the product of a wet climate. Christmas and New Year. Look out for the
Most tourist sights are open from Easter to word fleadh (festival) but remember that
September but have re stricted opening the Irish are spontaneous: festivities can
hours or close in the low season. During spring from the air, or from a tune on a
spring and summer, festivals are held in fiddle. Festival dates may vary.

Summer
For the visitor, summer
represents the height of the
festive calendar. This is the
busiest time of year for organ-
ized events, from music and arts
festivals to lively local race
meetings, summer schools and
matchmaking festivals. Book
accommodation if your plans
include a popular festival.



Dublin’s annual parade to celebrate St Patrick’s Day (17 March)
Spring Feis Ceoil, Dublin (end Mar).
A classical music festival
St Patrick’s Day is often said to held at many different venues
mark the beginning of the throughout the city.
tourist season. Later, the spring
bank holiday weekend in May, April
when accommodation is in Pan Celtic Festival, location Beach races at Laytown
short supply, is celebrated with changes annually. A lively
music in most places. After the celebration of Celtic culture, June
quiet winter months, festivals with music, dance and song. Kilkenny Cat Laughs (end
and events start to become Cork Choral Festival (late Apr). May–early Jun). Internationally
more common. renowned comedy festival.
May County Wicklow Garden
March Belfast Civic Festival and Festival (May–Jul). Held at
St Patrick’s Festival (17 Mar). Lord Mayor’s Show (mid-May, private and public gardens
Five days of parades, concerts, see pp280–81). Street parade around the county, including
céilí dances and fireworks in with bands and floats. Powerscourt (see pp138–9).
Dublin, and parades in all major Balmoral Show, Belfast (mid-May). Dublin Docklands Maritime
towns around the country. A three-day show with a Festival (early Jun). Tall ships,
Horse Ploughing diverse range of events street theatre, outdoor markets,
Match and Heavy including sheep-shearing concerts and events for all ages.
Horse Show, competitions, danc ing dogs Women’s Mini Marathon,
Ballycastle (17 and fashion shows. Dublin City (early Jun).
Mar, see p270). “A Taste of Baltimore” Bloomsday, Dublin (16 Jun).
A popular annual Shellfish Festival Lectures, talks, readings and
competition. (end May, see p174). walks to celebrate James Joyce’s
DLR Poetry Now Fleadh Nua, Ennis, greatest novel, Ulysses.
Festival (end Mar). end May, see p193). Scurlogstown Olympiad Celtic
Dun Laoghaire. Four- Four days of tradi- Festival, Trim (early Jun, see p252).
day celebration of A St Patrick’s Day float tional Irish music, Traditional Irish music and
Irish poetry. advertising Guinness songs and dance. selection of a festival queen.




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IRELAND THROUGH THE Y EAR  53


Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
Sunshine Chart
Hours Hours The chart gives figures
10 10 for Dublin, though
conditions are similar
8 8
around the country.
6 6 The Southeast enjoys
more sunshine hours
4 4 than any other part of
Ireland, while Northern
2 2 Ireland receives
marginally fewer hours
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec of sun than the Republic.
Great Music in Irish Houses
(mid-Jun). Classical music in
grand settings at various venues.
Castleward Opera, Strangford
(all month, see p288). Opera
festival in the grounds of an
18th-century stately home.
County Wexford Strawberry
Festival, Enniscorthy (end Jun–
early Jul, see p153). Craft fair,
music, street theatre and,
of course, strawberries.
Dublin Pride, Dublin (end Jun).
A week-long celebration for the Traditional sailing craft in the Cruinniú na mBád at Kinvara (August)
capital’s LGBT community,
culminating in a street parade Mary from Dungloe Dublin Horse Show
and party in Merrion Square. Inter national Festival, Dungloe (first or second week).
(last week, see p232). Dancing, A premier showjumping
July music and selection of “Mary”, comp etition and social event.
Twelfth of July (12 Jul, see p248). the beauty queen. Puck Fair, Killorglin,
Members of the Orange Order Lughnasa Fair, Co Kerry (mid-Aug, see
march in towns across Northern Carrickfergus Castle p169). A wild goat is
Ireland to cele brate the Protest- (end Jul, see p279). crowned “king” at
ants’ landmark victory over King A popular medieval- this two-day-long
James II’s Catholic army in 1690. style fair. traditional festival.
Galway Arts Festival (third & Ballyshannon Blessing of the Sea
fourth weeks, see pp214–15). International Folk (second or third
Processions, concerts, street Festival (end Jul or Sunday). Held in
theatre, children’s shows and early Aug, see p235). seaside towns
other events in the medieval city Three days of trad- all over Ireland.
centre. Followed by Galway’s itional Irish music. Oul’ Lammas Fair,
pop ular five-day race meeting. O’Carolan Harp and Orangemen parading Ballycastle (mid–end
Traditional on the Twelfth of July Aug, see p270). A
Music popular fair that
Festival, Keadue, is particularly famous for its
Co Roscommon (end Jul edible seaweed.
or early Aug). Traditional Kilkenny Arts Festival (middle
music and dance of the month, see pp146–7).
celebrations. A major arts festival including
poetry, film and crafts.
August Rose of Tralee Festival,
Stradbally Steam- (end Aug, see p160). Bands,
engine Rally, Co Laois processions, dancing and
(early Aug). Many types selection of the “Rose”.
of steam-engine join Cruinniú na mBád, Kinvara
this rally. (mid-Aug, see pp215 & 218).
Galway Race Week, Co Various types of traditional
Galway (early Aug). World sailing craft take part in this
Steam-engine at Stradbally Rally (August) renowned horse racing. “gathering of the boats”.




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54  INTRODUCING IRELAND


Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall Chart
Ireland is one of the
MM Inches wettest countries in
100 4 Europe, with rainfall
80 distributed evenly
3 through the year – the
60 figures displayed here
2 are for Dublin. The
40 West has the heaviest
1 annual rainfall, while
20 the Southeast receives
marginally less rain
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec than other regions.
Dublin Fringe Festival
(two weeks mid-Sep).
The country’s biggest
performing arts festival
features music, dance
and street theatre.
Lisdoonvarna
Matchmak ing Festival
(all month and first week
of Oct, see p192). Singles All-Ireland Hurling at Croke Park, Dublin
gather for traditional
music and dance. in the restaurants, hotels and
Galway Oyster Festival (September) All-Ireland Football Final, pubs of Kinsale.
Croke Park, Dublin (3rd Sunday, Ballinasloe Fair, Co Galway
see p33). Gaelic football final. (first week). One of Europe’s
Autumn Galway Oyster Festival oldest horse fairs, staged amid
Oysters and opera are the two (end Sep, see pp214–15). Oyster lively street entertainment.
big events in autumn. There are tastings at different venues. Dublin Theatre Festival
also festivals devoted to jazz, film (first two weeks). Features
and music. The October bank October works by both Irish and
holiday week end is celebrated Oktoberfest, London­ foreign playwrights.
with music in many towns. derry (all month, see Wexford Festival
pp262–3). Dancing, Opera (last two weeks in
September poetry, film, comedy, Oct, see p339). A festival
Heritage Week (late Aug–early theatre and music. of lesser­known operas.
Sep). Events countrywide. Cork Film Festival Hallowe’en (Samhain)
Laytown Beach Races, Co (early Oct, see pp178–9). Horse and trap at (31 Oct). An occasion
Meath (first week of Sep). Irish and inter national celebrated all over
Horse races on the sand. film screenings. Lisdoonvarna fair the country.
All-Ireland Hurling Final, Kinsale International Festival Cork Jazz Festival (end Oct, see
Croke Park, Dublin (first or of Fine Food (early Oct, see pp178–9). An extremely popular
second Sunday, see p33). pp176–7). Superb food served festival, with music throughout
the city.
November
Belfast Festival at Queen’s,
Queen’s University (last two
weeks Oct, see pp282–3).
Arts festival featuring drama,
ballet, cinema and all types
of music from classical to jazz.
Éigse Sliabh Rua, Slieverue,
Co Kilkenny (mid-Nov). Festival
of local history and music with
guests and interesting talks.
Sligo International Choral
Festival (mid-Nov, see p238).
Choirs from around the world
A procession as part of Dublin Theatre Festival (October) in concert and competition.




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IRELAND THROUGH THE Y EAR  55


Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart
This chart gives the
°C °F average minimum
25 80 and maximum tem p­
eratures for the city
20 70
of Dublin. Winter is
mild throughout
15 60
Ireland, except in the
10 50 high mountain
ranges, while the
5 40 warmest summer
temperatures are in
0 30
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec the Southeast.
Winter
Although a quiet time for
festivals, there’s a range of
entertainment including
musical and theatrical events.
Christmas is the busiest social
period and there are plenty of
informal celebrations. There is
also a wide choice of National
Hunt race meetings (see p32).
December
Twelve Days of Christmas
(Dec). Dublin. A Christmas Young boys dressed up as Wren boys on St Stephen’s Day
market with a vibrant
festival atmosphere. January young people have taken
Leopardstown Races (26 Dec, Salmon and Sea Trout Season part in music (and speech
see p135). The biggest meeting (17 Jan–end Sep, see pp342–3). and drama) competitions.
held on this traditional day for Season begins for one of Ire land’s Six Nations Rugby
racing. There are other fixtures most popular pastimes. Tourna ment, Aviva Stadium,
at Limerick and Down Royal. Dublin (varying Saturdays and
St Stephen’s Day (26 Dec). February Sundays Feb–Apr, see p32).
Catholic boys traditionally dress Jameson Dublin International
up as Wren boys (chimney Film Festival (end Feb–early Public Holidays
sweeps with blackened faces) Mar). Films at various venues.
and sing hymns to raise money Belfast Musical Festival (end New Year’s Day (1 Jan)
for charitable causes. Feb–mid-Mar). For over 100 years, St Patrick’s Day (17 Mar)
Good Friday
Easter Monday
May Day (first Mon in May)
Spring Bank Holiday (Northern
Ireland: last Mon in May)
June Bank Holiday (Rep ublic:
first Mon in Jun)
Twelfth of July (Northern
Ireland: 12 Jul)
August Bank Holiday (Rep ublic:
first Mon in Aug).
Summer Bank Holiday
(Northern Ireland: last Mon in Aug)
October Bank Holiday
(Republic: last Mon in Oct)
Christmas Day (25 Dec)
St Stephen’s Day (Republic:
26 Dec)
Boxing Day (Northern Ireland:
26 Dec)

Glendalough (see pp144–5) in the snow




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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

DUBLIN AREA


BY AREA





Dublin at a Glance 58–59

Southeast Dublin 60–75
Southwest Dublin 76–87
North of the Liffey 88–97
Further Afield 98–107
Shopping in Dublin 108–111

Entertainment in Dublin 112–119
Dublin Street Finder 120–123








































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58  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

Dublin at a Glance

Ireland’s capital has a wealth of attractions, most within
walking distance of each other. For the pur pose of this
guide, central Dublin has been divided into three sections:
Southeast Dublin, heart of the modern city and home to the Dublin
prestigious Trinity College; Southwest Dublin, site of the old
city around Dublin Castle; and North of the Liffey, the area
around the imposing O’Connell Street. The map references
given for sights in the city refer to the Dublin Street Finder
on pages 122–3.

Christ Church Cathedral was built
by Dublin’s Anglo-Norman conquerors
between 1172 and 1220. It stands on
high ground above the River Liffey.
Much of the cathedral’s present
appearance is due to restoration
carried out in the 1870s
(see pp84–5).
North of the
Liffey
Pages 88–97






0 metres 400
0 yards 400


Southwest
Dublin
Pages 76–87









Dublin Castle stands in the heart of old Dublin.
St Patrick’s Hall is part of the suite of luxury State
Apartments housed on the upper floors on the
south side of the castle. Today, these rooms are
used for functions of national importance such
as presidential inaugurations (see pp80–81).


Saint Patrick’s Cathedral has a spectacular choir
featuring banners and stalls decorated with the insignia
of the Knights of St Patrick. The cathedral also holds one
of the world’s finest organs of the late Romantic period,
as well as memorials to Dean Jonathan Swift and
prominent Anglo-Irish families (see pp86–7).
The Old Library at Trinity College, Dublin



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DUBLIN A T A GLANCE  59
















O’Connell Street, Dublin’s busiest thoroughfare,
has a fine mix of architectural styles and a grand
central mall punctuated with statues of famous The Custom House, a classic
Irish citizens and the 120-m (394-ft) Monument Georgian public building by James
of Light spire. Just off O’Connell Street, on Gandon, was built between 1781 and
Moore Street, is a lively market (see pp92–3). 1791. The sculpted heads on the
keystones are personifications
of the rivers of Ireland; the one
shown above represents the
River Foyle (see p92).



Trinity College is home
to the Old Library which
contains priceless
illuminated manuscripts.
These include the
Book of Kells which
dates back to the
9th century
(see pp66–8).


Southeast
Dublin
Pages 60–75














National Museum of
Ireland – Archaeology
has an impressive The National Gallery was opened in
collection of artifacts 1864. Housed on two floors, it holds
dating from the Stone Age an eclectic collection, particularly
to the 20th century. The strong on Irish and Italian works. The
Ardagh Chalice (c.AD 800) gallery’s most prized painting is
is one of the many Celtic Caravaggio’s The Taking of Christ. The
Christian treasures on Millennium Wing has over 500 works
display (see pp70–71). on display (see pp74–5).




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DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA  61

SOUTHEAST DUBLIN

Despite its location close to the old walled and terraces around Merrion Square.
city, this part of Dublin remained virtually Many of these buildings still have their
undeveloped until the founding of Trinity original features, including doorknockers,
College in 1592. Even then, it was almost fanlights and wrought-iron balconies.
a hundred years before the ancient common Today, Southeast Dublin is very much the
land further south was enclosed to create tourist heart of the city: few visitors can
St Stephen’s Green, a spacious city park. resist the lively atmosphere and attractive
The mid-18th century saw the beginning shops of Grafton Street. The area is also
of a construction boom in the area. During home to much of Ireland’s cultural heritage.
this time, magnificent public buildings such The National Gallery has a good collection
as the Old Library at Trinity College, Leinster of Irish and European paintings while the
House and the Bank of Ireland were built. National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology
However, the most conspicuous reminders has superb displays of Irish Bronze Age gold
of Georgian Dublin are the beautiful squares and early Christian treasures.

Sights at a Glance
Museums, Libraries and Galleries
7 The Little Museum of Dublin Historic Streets 0 metres 250
8 National Museum of Ireland – 3 Grafton Street
Archaeology pp70–71 r Merrion Square 0 yards 250
9 National Library y Fitzwilliam Square
q National Wax Museum Plus Churches
w National Museum of Ireland – 6 St Ann’s Church
Natural History
e National Gallery of Ireland pp74–5 Parks and Gardens
t Royal Hibernian Academy 4 St Stephen’s Green
Historic Buildings
L i f f e y
WESTMORELAND ST
1 Bank of Ireland A S T O N Q
2 Trinity College pp66–7 PRICE'S U A Y LANE D'OLIER ST
5 Mansion House FLEET STREET
ANGLESEA STREET COLLEGE STREET P E A R S E S T R E E T
0 Leinster House
COLLEGE
STAND REW’ S ST GREEN N A S S A U COLLEGE COLLEGE LN WESTLAND ROW CUMBERLAND Pearse
SUFFOLK ST
P ARK
S T R E E T
WICKLOW ST
CLARENDON STREET ANNE ST SOUTH S T R E E T DAWSON LANE S T R E E T LEINSTER ST S CLARE ST ST SOUTH
LANE
FREDERICK ST
LINCOLN PLACE
SOUTH
DUKE ST
DUKE
SETANTA
PLACE
MERRION SQ W
MOLESWORTH ST
MERCER ST LOWER GLOVER'S ALLEY G R AF T O N ANNE’S LANE D A W S O N HOUSE LN K I L D A R E S T R E E T MERRION
SCHOOL
KING STREET
SOUTH
MERRION SQUARE NORTH
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN WEST St Stephen's MERRION ROW MERRION ST UPPER FI T Z W I LLIA M L A NE MERRION SQ E

SQUAR E
Green
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN NORTH
YORK STREET
MERRION SQUARE SOUTH
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN EAST PEMBROKE ST LOWER BAGGOT ST LOWER
ST LOWER
ST STEPHEN’S
GREEN HUME ST ELY PLACE FITZWILLIAM
ST UPPER
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN SOUTH
LEESON LN SQUARE N FITZWILLIAM
See also Street Finder map QUINN’S LANE FITZWILLIAM SQ W FITZWILLIAM
pp122–3 FITZWILLIAM FITZWILLIAM SQUARE E
SQUARE
The interior of Trinity College’s Geology building For map symbols see back flap
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62  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Southeast Dublin

The area around College Green, dominated by the façades of the
Bank of Ireland and Trinity College, is very much the heart of
Dublin. The alleys and malls cutting across busy pedestrianized
Grafton Street boast many of Dublin’s better shops, hotels and
restaurants. Just off Kildare Street are the Irish Parliament, the To Dublin C O L L E G E G R E E N
National Library and the National Museum – Archaeology. To Castle
escape the city bustle many head for sanctuary in St Stephen’s
Green, which is overlooked by fine Georgian buildings.



1 Bank of Ireland G R A F T O N S T R E E T
This grand Georgian
building was origi nally S U F F O L K S T
built as the
Irish Parliament.

Statue of Molly
Malone (1988)
3 Grafton Street
Brown Thomas department store is one of the
main attractions on this pedestrianized street,
G R A F T O N S T R E E T D U K E S T
alive with buskers and pavement artists.

6 St Ann’s
Church
The striking
façade of the
18th-century
church was added
in 1868. The A N N E S T S T H
interior features
lovely stained-
glass windows.

5 Mansion House
This has been the official
residence of Dublin’s Lord D A W S O N S T
Mayor since 1715.
Fusiliers’ Arch (1907)












4. St Stephen’s Green S T S T E P H E N ’ S G R E E N N O R T H
The relaxing city park is surrounded by many
grand buildings. In summer, lunchtime concerts
attract tourists and workers alike.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


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SOUTHEAST DUBLIN  63


To O’Connell Bridge NORTH OF
THE LIFFEY

SOUTHWEST
DUBLIN
C O L L E G E G R E E N SOUTHEAST
DUBLIN
Locator Map
2. Trinity College See Street Finder map pp122–3
Pomodoro’s sculpture
Sphere within Sphere (1982)
G R A F T O N S T R E E T adds a modern dimension
to the grand buildings
of the campus.






9 National Library
Saintly cherubs appear on the frieze
around the library’s magni ficent old
reading room, once a haunt of
novelist James Joyce.

8. National Museum of
0 Leinster Ireland – Archaeology
House The museum’s collec tion of
N A S S A U S T R E E T
This grand Irish antiquities includes
house has been a bronze object known
the home of the
F R E D E R I C K S T R E E T since 1922. (2nd century AD).
as the Petrie Crown
Irish Parliament




K I L D A R E S T R E E T

M O L E S W O R T H S T








The Shelbourne, established in 1824, overlooks
the north side of St Stephen’s Green. It is a popular
spot with tourists and locals for afternoon tea.

Key
0 metreses 50 Suggested route
0 metr
50
S T S T E P H E N ’ S G R E E N N O R T H
50
0 y
0 yardsards 50
For key to symbols see back flap
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64  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA


Brown Thomas, one of Dublin’s
finest department stores
(see p108). In addition, there
are plenty of recognizable
high-street retailers to tempt
shoppers, including Tommy
Hilfiger and River Island. There
are also many excellent
jewellers in Grafton Street.
Number 78 stands on the
site of Samuel Whyte’s school,
whose illustrious roll included
Robert Emmet (see p81), leader
of the 1803 Rebellion, and the
Duke of Wellington.
Original chamber of the Irish House of Lords at the Bank of Ireland Hidden along many of
the side streets are quaint,
1 Bank of Ireland further additions around 1797. traditional Irish pubs, catering
After the dissolution of the to the weary shopper’s need
2 College Green. Map D3. Tel 677 Irish Parliament in 1800, the for a refreshment break.
6801. Open 10am–4pm Mon, Tue & Bank of Ireland bought the
Fri, 10am–4pm Wed, 10am–5pm Thu. building. The present structure
Closed Sat, Sun & public hols. House was then completed in 1808
of Lords 8 10:30am, 11:30am &
1:45pm Tue. with the transformation of the
former lobby of the House of
The prestigious offices of the Commons into a magnificent
Bank of Ireland began life as the cash office and the addition of
first purpose-built parlia ment a curving screen wall and the
house in Europe. The original Foster Place annexe.
central section was started by At the front of the bank on
Irish architect Edward Lovett College Green is a statue (1876)
Pearce and completed in 1739 by John Foley of Henry Grattan
after his death. Sadly, Pearce’s (see p44), the most formidable
master piece, the great octag- leader of the old parliament.
onal chamber of the House
of Commons (see p44), was 2 Trinity College
removed at the behest of the Royal College of Surgeons, which overlooks
British government in 1802. See pp66–7. St Stephen’s Green
The House of Lords, however,
remains gloriously intact, 4 St Stephen’s
especially its coffered ceiling 3 Grafton Street Green
and oak panelling. There are Map D4.
also huge tapestries of the Map D5. Open daylight hours.
Battle of the Boyne and the The spine of Dublin’s most St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2.
Siege of Londonderry, and a popular and stylish shopping Tel 475 7816. Open all year round
splendid 1,233-piece crystal district (see pp108–9) runs south Closed 25 Dec; phone for
closing details &
chandelier dating from 1788. from Trinity College to the glass 8 tours on request.
The east portico St Stephen’s Green Shopping
was added Centre. At the junc tion with Originally one of three ancient
by architect Nassau Street is a statue by Jean commons in the old city,
James Rynhart of Molly Malone (1988), St Stephen’s Green was enclosed
Gandon the celebrated street trader in 1664. The 9-ha (22-acre)
in 1785, from the traditional song “Molly green was laid out in its present
with Malone”. This busy pedestrian- form in 1880, using a grant
ized strip, charac terized by given by Lord Ardilaun, a
energetic buskers and talented member of the Guinness family.
street theatre artists, boasts Land scaped with flowerbeds,
trees, a fountain and a lake, the
green is dotted with memorials
to eminent Dubliners, including
Ardilaun himself. There is a bust
of James Joyce (see p94), and a
memorial by Henry Moore
Bronze statue of Molly Malone at the bottom of Grafton Street (1967) dedicated to W B Yeats
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


064-065_EW_Ireland.indd 64 08/03/17 11:05 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHEAST DUBLIN  65

6 St Ann’s Church
Dawson St. Map E4. Tel 676 7727.
Open 10am–4pm Mon–Fri (also for Sun
service at 11:15am).
St Ann’s, founded in 1707, has a
striking Romanesque façade,
which was added in 1868. Inside
are colourful stained-glass
win dows, dating from the mid-
19th century. The church has a
long tradi tion of charity work: in
1723 Lord Newton left a be quest
to buy bread for the poor. The
original shelf for the bread still
stands next to the altar.
Famous past parishioners
include Wolfe Tone (see p45),
who was married here in 1785,
Beautifully manicured grounds of St Stephen’s Green Douglas Hyde (see p87) and
Bram Stoker (1847–1912),
(see pp236–7). At the Merrion Tours reveal some of the best author of Dracula.
Row corner stands a massive Georgian interior decor to
monument (1967) by Edward survive in the city. The walls
Delaney to 18th-century and ceilings of the Apollo
nationalist leader Wolfe Tone – it Room and Saloon at No. 85 are
is known locally as “Tonehenge”. festooned with intricate Baroque
The 1887 bandstand is still the stucco work (1739) by the Swiss
focal point for free daytime brothers Paolo and Filippo
concerts in summer. Lafrancini. The Bishops’ Room at
The imposing Royal College No. 86 is decorated with heavy
of Surgeons stands on the 19th-century furniture.
west side. Built in 1806, it was The small University Church
commandeered by rebel troops (1856) next door has a colourful,
under Countess Constance richly marbled Byzantine interior.
Markievicz in the 1916 Rising Also on the south side of
(see pp48–9) and its columns still St Stephen’s Green is Iveagh Detail of window depicting Faith, Hope
bear the marks of bullets from House, a town house once and Charity, St Ann’s Church
the fighting. owned by the Guinness family
The busiest side of the Green and now the Depar t ment of
is the north, known during the Foreign Affairs. 7 The Little
19th century as the Beaux’ Walk Museum of Dublin
and still home to gentlemen’s
clubs. The most prominent 5 Mansion House 15 Stephen’s Green. Map D4.
building is the refurbished Dawson St. Map E4. Tel 661 1000. Open 9:30am–5pm
venerable hotel, Shelbourne. Closed to the public. daily (until 8pm Thu). & 8 0
Dating back to 1824, its entrance
is adorned by statues of Nubian Set back from Dawson Street by Described as “Dublin’s best
princesses and attendant slaves. a neat cobbled forecourt, the museum experience” by The
It is well worth popping in for a Mansion House is an attractive Irish Times, The Little Museum
look at the chandeliered foyer Queen Anne-style building. It of Dublin is housed in a
and for afternoon tea in the was built in 1710 for the aristocrat beautiful Georgian building
Lord Mayor’s Lounge. Joshua Dawson, after whom the on St Stephen’s Green. The
Situated on the south side is street is named. The Dublin museum charts the cultural,
Newman House, home of the Corpor ation bought it from him social and political history
Catholic University of Ireland five years later as the official of the capital through a
(now part of University College). residence of the city’s Lord Mayor. collection of over 5,000 items,
Opened in 1856, its first rector The Round Room adjacent to including art, photo graphy,
was English theo logian John the main building was built in letters and postcards, donated
Henry Newman. Famous past 1821 for the visit of King George by the public. Admission
pupils include the poet Gerald IV. The Dáil Éireann (see p69), includes a 10 percent discount
Manley Hopkins, former which adopted the Declaration in Hatch & Sons, the acclaimed
Taoiseach Eamon de Valera (see of Independence, first met here restaurant in the basement
p49) and author James Joyce. on 21 January 1919. of the museum.




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66  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

2 Trinity College

Trinity College was founded in 1592 by Queen Elizabeth I
on the site of an Augustinian monastery. Originally a
Protestant college, it was not until 1793 that Catholics started
entering the university, although certain restrictions were
applied until the 1970s. Among Trinity’s many famous . Campanile
The 30-m (98-ft) bell
students were playwrights Oliver Goldsmith and Samuel tower, erected in
Beckett, and political writer Edmund Burke. The college’s 1853, was designed
lawns and cobbled quads provide a pleasant haven in the by Sir Charles
heart of the city. The major attractions are the Long Room Lanyon, architect
of Queen’s
and the Book of Kells Exhibition, housed in the Old Library. University, Belfast
(see p282).
















Chapel (1798) Parliament Square
This was the first uni-
versity chapel in the
Republic to accept all
denominations. The
painted window above
the altar is from 1867.
KEY
1 Provost’s House (c. 1760)
2 Statue of Oliver Goldsmith
(1864) by John Foley
3 Statue of Edmund Burke (1868) Main entrance
by John Foley
4 Dining Hall (1761)
5 Reclining Connected Forms
(1969) by Henry Moore
6 The Museum Building,
completed in 1857, is noted for its
Venetian exterior, and the domed
roof made of blue, red and yellow
enamelled bricks.
7 Sphere within Sphere, (1982)
was given to the college by its Examination Hall
sculptor Arnaldo Pomodoro. Completed in 1791
to a design by Sir
8 Berkeley Library Building by William Chambers,
Paul Koralek (1967)
the hall features
9 The Douglas Hyde Gallery, a gilded oak
was built in the 1970s to house chandelier and
temporary art exhibitions. ornate ceilings by
Michael Stapleton.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


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SOUTHEAST DUBLIN  67


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
College Green.
Map D3.
Tel 896 1000.
∑ tcd.ie/library
Long Room and Old Library:
Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Sat,
9:30am–4:30pm Sun (May–Sep),
noon–4:30pm Sun (Oct–Apr).
Closed 10 days at Christmas.
Library Square & ^ 7 8 by arrangement.
The red-brick building (known as the Rubrics) on the east side Chapel: Open by appt.
of Library Square was built around 1700 and is the oldest Douglas Hyde Gallery:
surviving part of the college.
Open for exhibitions.
Shop and entrance Transport
to Old Library £ DART to Pearse Street. @ 10,
14, 15, 46 & many other routes.




New Square










. Old Library
Fellows’ Square This detail is from the
Book of Durrow, one of
the other magnificent
illuminated manuscripts
housed in the Old Library
along with the celebrated
Book of Kells (see p68).



Samuel Beckett (1906–89)
Nobel Prize-winner Samuel Beckett
was born at Foxrock, south of
Dublin. In 1923 he entered Trinity,
Entrance from and later grad uated with a first in
Nassau Street modern languages and a gold
medal. He was also a keen member
of the college cricket team.
. Long Room Forsaking Ireland, Beckett
(1732) moved to France in the
The spectacular Long early 1930s. Many of
Room measures 64 m his major works such
(210 ft) from end to as Waiting for Godot
end. It houses 200,000 (1951) were written
antiquarian texts, first in French, and
marble busts of later translated,
scholars and the by Beckett,
oldest surviving into English.
harp in Ireland.




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68  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA


The Book of Kells

The most richly decorated of Ireland’s medieval illuminated manuscripts, the Book of Kells
may have been the work of monks from Iona, who fled to Kells (see p245) in AD 806
after a Viking raid. The book, which was moved to Trinity College (see pp66–7) in the
17th century, contains the four gospels in Latin. The scribes who copied the texts also
embellished their calligraphy with intricate interlacing spirals as well as human figures
and animals. Some of the dyes used were imported from as far as the Middle East.

Pair of Stylized The Greek
moths angel letter “X”









The symbols of the four
evangelists are used as
decoration throughout
the book. The figure
of the man symbolizes
St Matthew.

The letter that looks like
a “P” is a Greek “R”.


The letter “I”



Interlacing
motifs



Cat watching rats A full-page portrait of
St Matthew, shown
Monogram Page standing barefoot in
Rats eating bread could be a front of a throne,
reference to sinners taking Holy The most elaborate page of the book, this precedes the opening
Communion. The symbolism of contains the first three words of St Matthew’s words of his gospel.
the animals and people account of the birth of Christ. The first word
decorating the manuscript is “XRI” is an abbreviation of “Christi”.
often hard to interpret.
The text is in a beautifully rounded Celtic script with
brightly ornamented initial letters. Animal and human forms
are often used to decorate the end of a line.












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SOUTHEAST DUBLIN  69

























The magnificent domed Reading Room on the first floor of the National Library
8 National Museum including public lectures, poe try of Leinster in 1745. Designed by
of Ireland – and music recitals, theatre, child­ German­born architect Richard
Archaeology ren’s storytelling, public tours of Cassels, the Kildare Street façade
exhibitions, creative workshops resembles that of a large town
See pp70–71. and a lot more. Admission is free. house. However, the rear, looking
on to Merrion Square, has the air
of a country estate complete with
9 National Library 0 Leinster House sweeping lawns. The Royal Dublin
Society bought the building in
Kildare St. Map E4. Tel 603 0213. Kildare St. Map E4. Tel 618 3000.
Open 9:30am–7:45pm Mon–Wed, Open for tours 8 10:30am & 2:30pm 1815. The government obtained
9:30am–4:45pm Thu & Fri, 9:30am– daily; email [email protected] a part of it in 1922 for parlia­
4:30pm Sat (Reading Room closes to book in advance. mentary use and bought the
12:45pm). Closed public hols. ∑ oireachtas.ie entire building two years later.
7∑ nli.ie Email ahead to book a place
This stately mansion houses the on the two daily tours of the
Designed by Sir Thomas Deane, Dáil and the Seanad – the two rooms, including the Seanad
the National Library opened in chambers of the Irish Parliament. chamber with its heavily
1890. It now con tains first It was originally built for the Duke ornamented ceiling.
editions of every major Irish
writer and a copy of almost The Irish Parliament
every book ever published in
Ireland. Its hold ings also include The Irish Free State, forerunner of the Republic of Ireland, was
manu scripts, prints, drawings, inaugurated in 1922 (see p48), although an unofficial Irish parliament,
maps, photo graphs, newspapers, the Dáil, had already been in
music, ephemera and gene­ existence since 1919. Today,
alogical material, all of which parliament is made up of two
comprise the most outstand ing houses: Dáil Éireann (House of
collection of Irish docu men tary Representatives) and Seanad
Éireann (the Senate). The
heritage in the world. Prime Minister is the
Visitors can view the famous Taoiseach and the deputy, the
Reading Room where distin­ Tánaiste. The Dáil’s 166
guished Irish writers have representatives – Teachtaí
studied, or explore the award­ Dála, known as TDs – are
winning exhibitions. elected by proportional
For anyone interested in representation. The 60­strong
family history, the Genealogy Seanad is appointed by
Advisory Service is available for various individuals and autho­
free to all personal callers. rities, including the Taoiseach Opening of the first parliament of the
The library also hosts an on ­ and the University of Dublin. Irish Free State in 1922
going programme of events,
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11



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70  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

8 National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology

Opened in 1890, the National Museum of
Ireland – Archaeology has a domed rotunda
featuring marble pillars and a mosaic floor.
The Treasury houses priceless items such as
the Broighter gold boat (see p37), while Ór –
Ireland’s Gold, an exhibition of Ireland’s Bronze
Age gold, has jewellery such as the Gleninsheen
Gorget (see pp36–7). The National Museum of
Ireland consists of three other sites: Decorative
Arts and History at Collins Barracks (see p105),
Country Life and Natural History (see p72).

Egyptian Mummy
This mummy of the lady Tentdinebu is
thought to date back to c.945–716 BC.
Covered in brilliant colours, it is part of
the stunning Egyptian collection.


. Ór – Ireland’s Gold
This is one of the most extensive
collections of Bronze Age gold in
Western Europe. This gold lunula
(c.1800 BC), found in Athlone,
is one of many pieces of ancient
jewellery in this exhibition.



Key to Floorplan
Kingship and Sacrifice
Ór – Ireland’s Gold
The Treasury
Prehistoric Ireland
Medieval Ireland
Viking Ireland
Ancient Egypt
Ceramics and Glass from
Ancient Cyprus
Life and Death in the Roman World

Temporary exhibition space
Non-exhibition space


. Bog Bodies
This preserved hand (c.600 BC) is one of
the pieces in this fascinating exhibition
of Iron Age bodies discovered in 2003. Main
entrance
Gallery Guide The domed
The ground floor holds The Treasury, Ór – Ireland’s Gold rotunda, based on
exhibition, the Kingship and Sacrifice and the Prehistoric the design of the The Treasury
Ireland display. On the first floor is the Medieval Ireland Altes Museum in houses masterpieces
exhibition, which illustrates many aspects of life in later Berlin, makes of Irish crafts such as
medieval Ireland. Also on the first floor are artifacts from an impressive the Ardagh Chalice
Ancient Egypt and from the Viking settlement of Dublin. entrance hall. (see p59).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


070-071_EW_Ireland.indd 70 08/03/17 11:05 am

SOUTHEAST DUBLIN  71

8 National Museum of Ireland – Archaeology First floor VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Temporary exhibition
space is located in the Practical Information
gallery of the second Kildare St.
floor. Past exhibitions Map E4.
have included Viking Tel 677 7444.
Ships and Finds from ∑ museum.ie
Irish Wetlands. Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat,
2–5pm Sun.
Closed Good Fri & 25 Dec. ^
7 ground floor only. 8 - =
Transport
£ DART to Pearse Station,
LUAS Green Line to St Stephen’s
Green. @ 10, 11, 13 and many
other routes.











Wooden Object
The Viking exhibition houses
many items, including
Ground coins, pottery and swords,
floor Cross of Cong uncovered in the 1970s
Some 75 cm (30 in) from the Viking settlement
in height, this discovered beside the Liffey
processional cross at Wood Quay (see p82).
shows a high level of
craftsmanship. Dating
from 1122, its gilt-
bronze plating is
adorned with silver
wire, crystals and
enamelled studs.





St Patrick’s Bell,
made of bronze-
coated iron, is
housed in a beautiful
12th-century shrine.






Crucifixion Plaque
This plaque is one of the earliest
. Tara Brooch depictions of the crucifixion
Found at Bettystown, County Meath, this ornate brooch dates found in Ireland. Dating from
from the 8th century AD. It is decorated on the front and rear the late 7th century, it may
with a filigree of gold wire entwined around settings of have been decoration for a
amber and enamel. manuscript cover.




070-071_EW_Ireland.indd 71 08/03/17 11:05 am

72  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

q National Wax
Museum Plus
4 Foster Place, Temple Bar,
Dublin 2. Map D3. Tel 671 8373.
Open 10am–7pm daily.
Closed 24–26 Dec. & 9 0 =
∑ waxmuseumplus.ie
This museum offers a modern
take on the tradi tional wax-
works museum, with displays
over four floors that provide an
interactive experi ence. Georgian town houses overlooking Merrion Square gardens
Visitors are taken on a journey
through time with wax models Livingstone. Inside the front door Fountain. It was originally
of figures from Irish history, are three skeletons of extinct erected in 1791 for the sole
literature, music, film, science, giant deer known as the “Irish elk”. use of Dublin’s poor.
politics and more. The Grand Hall The Irish Room on the ground
is dedicated to stars of Irish rock floor is devoted to local wild life.
music and film, such as U2 and The upper floor illustrates the t Royal Hibernian
Liam Neeson. International stars range of mammals inhabit ing our Academy
such as Madonna and Elvis also planet. Among the most fascinat- 15 Ely Place. Map E5. Tel 661 2558.
feature. In the Recording Studio, ing exhibits are the primates, a Open 11am–5pm Mon–Sat (to 8pm
you can use the latest tech- Bengal tiger and skeletons of Wed); noon–5pm Sun.
nology to make a music video. whales hanging from the ceiling. Closed Christmas hols. 7
A children’s cinema and ∑ rhagallery.ie
characters such as Harry Potter
are the attractions in the e National Gallery The academy is one of the
Children’s Fantasy World. The of Ireland largest exhibition spaces in
basement Chamber of Horrors the city. Through its touring
is not for the faint-hearted. See pp74–5. exhib itions of painting, sculpture
and other works, the institution
challenges the public’s under-
r Merrion Square standing of the visual arts.
This modern building, does,
Map F4. ∑ merrionsquare.ie
however, look out of place
Merrion Square, one of Dublin’s at the end of Ely Place, an
largest and grandest Georgian attractive Georgian cul-de-sac.
squares, was laid out by John
Ensor around 1762.
On the west side are the y Fitzwilliam Square
impressive façades of the No. 29 Fitzwilliam St Lower Map E5.
Natural History Mus eum, the Tel 702 6165. Open 10am– 5pm
National Gallery and the front Tue–Sat, noon–5pm Sun & public
garden of Leinster House hols. Closed Mon, Good Fri &
(see p69). There are lovely mid-Dec–mid-Feb. & 8 ^
Georgian town houses on the 7 limited, call in advance.
other three sides of the square. ∑ esb.ie/numbertwentynine
The Wax Museum, located in the historical Many of the houses – now
Armoury building predominantly used as office This square, which dates from
space – have plaques detail ing the 1790s, was one of the last
the rich and famous who once Georgian squares to be laid out
w National Museum lived in them. These include the in cen tral Dublin. Much smaller
of Ireland – poet W B Yeats (see pp236–7), than Merrion Square, it is a pop-
Natural History who lived at No. 82. The play- ular location for medical practices.
In the 1960s, 16 town houses
wright Oscar Wilde (see p26)
Merrion St. Map E4. Tel 677 7444. spent his childhood at No. 1. on Fitzwilliam Street Lower
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 2–5pm The attractive central park were torn down to make way
Sun. Closed Mon, Good Fri, 25 Dec. once served as an emergency for the head quarters of the
7 limited. ∑ museum.ie soup kitchen, feeding the Electricity Supply Board. The
hungry during the Great Famine company has since tried to
This museum was opened in in the 1840s (see p223). On the appease public indignation by
1857 with an inaugural lecture northwest side of the park renovating No. 29 as a Georgian
by Scottish explorer Dr David stands the restored Rutland showpiece home.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


072-073_EW_Ireland.indd 72 08/03/17 11:05 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHEAST DUBLIN  73


Dublin’s Georgian Terraces

The 18th century was Dublin’s Age of Elegance, a time of rel ative prosperity when the
Irish gentry, keen not to appear as the poor relations of Britain, set about remodelling
Dublin into one of the most elegant cities in Europe. Terraced town houses were
built, forming handsome new streets and squares. During the 19th century the city’s
wealth declined, forcing some middle-class families to divide their homes into
tene ments. Many of Dublin’s once grand streets slowly deteriorated. A century later the
property boom of the 1960s threatened to rip out what was left of Georgian Dublin.
Fortunately, much has survived and some of the city’s finest architecture can be seen in
Merrion Square and Fitzwilliam Square.


Playroom
Attic The bedrooms were
usually on the second
floor, while the upper
floors contained the
servants’ quarters and
children’s rooms.


Wrought-iron balconies
gave added prestige to the
Georgian house. Those still
in place today are mostly
later Victorian additions.

The drawing room
was always on the first Lavish stuccowork was
floor. The high ceiling an important way of
was decorated with the showing an owner’s
finest plasterwork. wealth during the
18th century.
The dining room
Architrave was normally on
the ground floor.


The kitchen contained a
huge cooking range
which was fired by either
coal or wood. The
adjoining pantry was
used to store the
household’s groceries.




Georgian Terraced House
The doorway was While Georgian streetscapes may appear uniform, closer inspection
usually crowned with a reveals a diversity of styles in terms of details such as fanlights,
segmented fanlight. architraves and balconies. The hallways usu ally had stone floors and,
The principal decoration facing the hall door, a staircase rising to the upper floors. Many of the
on the door itself was a town houses did not have gardens – the railed-off parks in the centre
heavy brass knocker. of the squares were reserved for residents only and served as such.





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74  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

e National Gallery of Ireland

This purpose-built gallery was opened to . Pierrot
the public in 1864. It houses many excellent This Cubist-style
work, by Spanish-
exhibits, largely due to generous bequests, born artist Juan Gris,
such as the Milltown collection of works of is one of many vari-
art from Russborough House (see p136). ations he painted on
Playwright George Bernard Shaw was also a the theme of Pierrot
and Harlequin. This
benefactor, leaving a third of his estate to particular one dates
the gallery. Although the empha sis is on from 1921.
Irish art, the major schools of Euro pean
painting are well represented. The historic
Dargan and Milltown wings have been
undergoing major refurbishment, and the
location of exhibits is subject to change.

Gallery Guide
The main entrance is through the
lofty Millennium Wing on Clare
Street. The gallery has been under-
going major refurbishments and
displays are being rearranged.
Visitors are advised to call or
check the website in advance to
confirm whether and where
specific exhibits will be displayed.

Mezzanine
level
















. A Landscape
This work, by Irish landscape painter Thomas
Roberts (1748–77), does not depict a particular
place, but illustrates the artist's preference for
the classical landscape.

Key to Floorplan
Modern European Art: 1850–1950
European Sculpture and
Decorative Arts
Print Gallery
Refurbished galleries
Non-exhibition space

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


074-075_EW_Ireland.indd 74 08/03/17 11:42 am

SOUTHEAST DUBLIN  75


. The Taking of Christ VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Rediscovered in a Dublin
Jesuit house in 1990, this Practical Information
1602 composition by Clare Street, Merrion Square West.
Caravaggio has enhanced Map E4. Tel 661 5133.
the gallery’s reputation. ∑ nationalgallery.ie
Open 9:15am–5:30pm Mon–
Sat; 9:15am–8:30pm Thu;
11am– 5:30pm Sun.
Closed Good Fri & 24–26 Dec.
& for special exhibitions.
^ 7 8
Transport
£ DART to Pearse. @ 4, 7, 8,
26, 44, 46A, 61, 66A/B, 67, 120.
LUAS to St Stephen's Green.














Level 2



Level 1


The Millennium Wing


Judith with the Head of Holofernes
This monochrome image by Andrea
Mantegna (c.1431–1506) depicts the
decapitation of an Assyrian chief.









Entrance level



The Sick Call
Main entrance Painted in a Pre-Raphaelite style by Matthew James
(Clare Street) Lawless, this 1863 canvas is said to be inspired by the
artist's own illness.




074-075_EW_Ireland.indd 75 08/03/17 11:42 am

Ha'penny
Bridge
Millennium
Bridge
Grattan WELLIN G T O N QUAY ASDILL'S ROW
Father Mathew L i f f e y Bridge TEMPLE BAR TEMPLE
BAR
Bridge O'Donovan ST SQUARE
Rossa Bridge ESSEX QUAY
MERCHANT’S QUAY WOOD QUAY ESSEX STREET EAST TEMPLE LA SOUTH COPE ST ANGLESEA STREET
BRIDGE ST LOWER STREET WINETAVERN ESSEX ST WEST PARLIAMENT ST CRANE LA MEETING- EUSTACE ST CROW ST FOWNES
HOUSE
SQUARE
LORD EDWARD ST
C OOK STRE ET FISHAMBLE ST EXCHANGE ST LOWER D A M E S T R E E T
LANE
BRIDGE ST
BORRIS ST MICHAEL’S CLOSE DAME ST AN DREW’S ST
UPPER
CT ST MICHAEL ’ S HILL CHRISTCHURCH PL CASTLE STRE E T SOUTH GREAT GEORGE’S ST EXCHEQUER ST WICKLOW ST
HIGH STREET
B A C K
LAMB
NI CH O L A S STR E E T ROSS ROAD WERBURGH ST SHIP ST CHANCERY LA FADE ST DRURY STREET MARKET CLARENDON STREET
L A N E
CASTLE
WILLIAM ST SOUTH
CASTLE STEPS
ALLEY
LITTLE
BRIDE ROAD
SHIP STREET GREAT
LANE
STREET
LANE
LONGFORD
DIGGES
ST GREAT
BULL ALLEY STREET GOLDEN WHITEF RIAR ST STEPHEN ST UPPER STEPHEN ST LOWER CLARENDON ROW
JOHN DILLON STREET
PATRICK S TREET KEVIN STREET UPPER B R I D E S T R E E T PE TER STRE ET AUNGIER YORK STREET
ST PATRICK'S
PARK
WOOD
ST
BOW LANE EAST
ST PATRICK’S CLOSE
IR_076-077_Dub_SW_Int.indd 76 25/04/16 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Area City, Further Afield template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 23rd July 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA  77

SOUTHWEST DUBLIN

The area around Dublin Castle was first these old city walls can be seen at
settled in prehistoric times, and it was from St Audoen’s Church. More conspicuous
here that the city grew. Dublin gets its name reminders of the Anglo-Normans are
from the dark pool (Dubh Linn) which formed provided by the grand medieval Christ
at the confluence of the Liffey and the Church Cathedral and Ireland’s largest
Poddle, a river which once ran through the church, Saint Patrick’s Cathedral. When
site of Dublin Castle. It is now channelled the city expanded to the north and east
underground and trickles out into the Liffey during the Georgian era, the narrow cobbled
by Grattan Bridge. Archaeological excavations streets of Temple Bar became a quarter of
behind Wood Quay, on the banks of the skilled craftsmen and merchants. Today this
Liffey, reveal that the Vikings established a lively area of town bustles with tourists, and
trading settlement here around 841. is home to a variety of “alternative” shops
Following Strongbow’s invasion of 1170, a and cafés. The Powerscourt Centre, an
medieval city began to emerge; the Anglo- elegant 18th-century mansion, has been
Normans built strong defen sive walls around converted into one of the city’s best
the castle. A small reconstructed section of shopping centres.

Sights at a Glance
Museums and Libraries Historic Streets
2 Chester Beatty Library 5 Temple Bar
8 Dublinia and the 6 Wood Quay
Viking World Churches
w Marsh’s Library
7 Christ Church Cathedral pp84–5
Historic Buildings 9 St Audoen’s Church
1 Dublin Castle pp80–81 q Saint Patrick’s Cathedral
3 City Hall e Whitefriar Street See also Street Finder map
4 Powerscourt Centre Carmelite Church pp122–3
0 Tailors’ Hall
Ha'penny
Bridge
Millennium
Bridge
Grattan WELL INGTON QU AY ASDILL'S ROW
Father Mathew L i f f e y Bridge TEMPLE BAR TEMPLE
BAR
Bridge O'Donovan ST SQUARE
Rossa Bridge ESSEX QUAY
MERCHANT’S QUAY WOOD QUAY ESSEX STREET EAST TEMPLE LA SOUTH COPE ST ANGLESEA STREET
BRIDGE ST LOWER STREET WINETAVERN ESSEX ST WEST PARLIAMENT ST CRANE LA MEETING- EUSTACE ST CROW ST FOWNES
HOUSE
SQUARE
LORD EDWARD ST
COOK S T REE T FISHAMBLE ST EXCHANGE ST LOWER D A M E S T R E E T
LANE
BRIDGE ST
UPPER
BORRIS ST MICHAEL’S CLOSE DAME ST AN DREW’S ST
CT ST MICHAEL ’ S HILL CHRISTCHURCH PL CASTLE STRE E T SOUTH GREAT GEORGE’S ST EXCHEQUER ST WICKLOW ST
HIGH STREET
B A C K
LAMB
NI CH O L A S STR E E T ROSS ROAD WERBURGH ST SHIP ST CHANCERY LA SHIP STREET GREAT FADE ST DRURY STREET MARKET CLARENDON STREET
L A N E
CASTLE
WILLIAM ST SOUTH
CASTLE STEPS
ALLEY
LITTLE
BRIDE ROAD
LANE
STREET
LANE
LONGFORD
DIGGES
BULL ALLEY STREET GOLDEN WHITEF RIAR ST STEPHEN ST UPPER STEPHEN ST LOWER CLARENDON ROW
ST GREAT
JOHN DILLON STREET
PATRICK S TREET PARK B R I D E S T R E E T WOOD AUNGIER YORK STREET
ST PATRICK'S
ST
BOW LANE EAST
0 metres 250 ST PATRICK’S CLOSE PE T E R ST R E E T
0 yards 250 KEVIN STREET UPPER
A stunning stained-glass window in Christ Church Cathedral For map symbols see back flap
IR_076-077_Dub_SW_Int.indd 77 25/04/16 11:01 am

78  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Southwest Dublin

Despite its wealth of ancient buildings, such as Sunlight Chambers
Dublin Castle and Christ Church Cathedral, were built in 1900 for
this part of Dublin lacks the sleek appeal of the the Lever Brothers
neighbouring streets around Grafton Street. company. The
However, redevelopment has helped to delightful terracotta
decoration on the
rejuvenate the area, especially around Temple façade advertises
Bar, where the attractive cobbled streets are their main business of
lined with interesting shops, galleries and cafés. soap manufacturing.
6 Wood Quay L I F F E Y
This is where the Vikings W E L L I N G T O N Q U AY
established their first
permanent settlement
in Ireland around 841.

E S S E X Q U AY E S S E X S T E A S T





F I S H A M B L E S T E S S E X S T W E S T PA R L I A M E N T S T R E E T C R A N E L A N E S Y C A M O R E S T


7. Christ Church Cathedral
Huge family monuments D A M E S T R E E T
including that of the
19th Earl of Kildare can be
found in Ireland’s oldest
cath edral, which also
L O R D E D W A R D S T
has a fascinating crypt.


C H R I S T C H U R C H P L C A S T L E S T





St Werburgh’s Church, built
in the 18th-century, has an
ornate interior hiding behind
its somewhat drab exterior.
3 City Hall
Originally built as the Royal
Exchange in 1779, the city’s
muni cipal headquarters is
fronted by a huge
Corinthian portico.
8 Dublinia and the
Viking World
Medieval Dublin and the
Vikings are the subjects 1. Dublin Castle
of this interactive The Drawing Room, with its Waterford
museum, located in the crystal chandelier, is part of a suite of
former Synod Hall of luxurious rooms built in the 18th
the Church of Ireland. century for the Viceroys of Ireland.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


078-079_EW_Ireland.indd 78 25/04/16 10:41 am

SOUTHWEST DUBLIN  79

O’Connell
Ha’penny Bridge Bridge NORTH OF THE LIFFEY


Millennium
Bridge SOUTHWEST
DUBLIN
SOUTHEEST
DUBLIN
Locator Map
See Street Finder map pp122–3
W E L L I N G T O N Q U AY T E M P L E B A R F O W N E S S T C R O W N A L L E Y 5. Temple Bar
This arts and
entertainments
district occupies a
maze of nar row,
cobbled streets.
E S S E X S T E A S T T E M P L E L A N E




Central Bank
of Ireland
D A M E S T R E E T
E U S TA C E S T R E E T
S Y C A M O R E S T
George’s Street Arcade
D A M E S T R E E T South Great George’s Street is
between Drury Street and
a popular spot for buying
second-hand clothes and
antique jewellery.
D A M E C T
E X C H E Q U E R S T 4 Powerscourt
Centre
This shopping
centre is one
of the best places
S T H G T G E O R G E ’ S S T
in Dublin to
find fashion
acces sories and
W I L L I A M S T S O U T H
arts and crafts.
To Grafton Street
D R U R Y S T




Key 0 metres 50
Suggested route 0 yards 50



The Long Hall is a magnificent, old-
fashioned pub with a great atmosphere.
Behind the narrow room’s long bar stands
a bewildering array of antique clocks.




078-079_EW_Ireland.indd 79 25/04/16 10:41 am

80  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

1 Dublin Castle

For seven centuries Dublin Castle was the seat of English rule,
ever since the Anglo-Normans built a fortress here in the
13th century. All that remains of the original structure is the
southeastern tower, now called the Record Tower. Following
a fire in 1684, the Surveyor-General, Sir William Robinson, laid
down the plans for the Upper and Lower Castle Yards in their
present form. On the first floor of the south side of the Upper
Yard are the luxury State Apartments, including St Patrick’s Hall.
These magnificent rooms served as home to the British-
appointed Viceroys of Ireland.

. Throne Room Figure of Justice
This room is one of Facing the Upper Yard above
the grandest of the the main entrance from Cork
state apartments and Hill, this statue aroused much
contains a throne first cynicism among Dubliners,
installed for the visit of who felt she was turning her
King George IV in 1821. back on the city.
Entrance
from
Cork Hill





Entrance to State
Apartments

Upper Yard






KEY Entrance to
Upper Yard
1 The Chapel Royal was
completed in 1814 by Francis
Johnston. The 100 heads on the
exterior of this Neo-Gothic church
were carved by Edward Smyth.
2 Record Tower (1226)
3 Octagonal Tower (c.1812)
4 Bermingham Tower dates from
the 13th century. It was turned into an
elegant supper room in around 1777.
5 Portrait Gallery
6 Wedgwood Room
. St Patrick’s Hall
7 Bedford Tower
This hall, with its banners of
8 The treasury building, the now-defunct Knights of
constructed in 1717, is the oldest St Patrick, has ceiling paintings
dedicated office block in Dublin. by Vincenzo Valdré (late 1780s),
9 Government offices symbolizing the relationship
between Britain and Ireland.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


080-081_EW_Ireland.indd 80 08/03/17 11:05 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHWEST DUBLIN  81


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Off Dame St. Map C3.
Tel 645 8813. ∑ dublincastle.ie
State Apartments: Open 10am–
4:45pm Mon–Sat, noon–4:45pm
Sun & public hols.
Closed 1 Jan, Good Fri, 24–27 Dec.
& 8
Transport
@ 49, 56A, 77, 77A, 123.

Robert Emmet
Robert Emmet (1778–1803),
leader of the abortive 1803 Manuscript (1874) from the Holy Koran written by calligrapher Ahmad Shaikh in Kashmir,
rebellion, is remembered as a on display at Chester Beatty Library
heroic champion of Irish liberty.
His plan was to cap ture Dublin 2 Chester Beatty most beautiful manuscripts in
Castle as a signal for the country Library the western European collection
to rise up against the Act of is the Coëtivy Book of Hours, an
Union (see p46). Emmet was Dublin Castle. Tel 407 0750. Open
de tained in the Kilmainham Mar–Oct: 10am–5pm Mon–Fri, 11am– illuminated 15th-century French
Gaol and hanged, but the 5pm Sat, 1–5pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am– prayer book.
defiant, patriotic speech he 5pm Tue–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat, 1–5pm
made from the dock helped to Sun. Closed 1 Jan, Good Fri, 24–26 Dec 3 City Hall
inspire future generations of & public holidays. = 7 0 ∑ cbl.ie
Irish freedom fighters. Cork Hill, Dame St. Map C3. Tel 222
This world-renowned collect ion 2918. Open 10am–5:15pm Mon–Sat.
of artistic treasures from Asia, Closed 1 Jan, Good Fri & 24–26 Dec.
the Middle East, North Africa 8 7 0 & ∑ dublincity.ie/
and Europe was bequeathed to dublincityhall
Ireland by the American mining
mag nate and art collector Sir Designed by Thomas Cooley,
Alfred Chester Beatty, who died this Corinthian-style building
in 1968. This generous act led to was erected between 1769 and
his selection as Ireland’s first 1779 as the Royal Exchange.
honorary citizen in 1957. It was bought by Dublin
During his lifetime, Beatty Corporation in 1851 as a meet-
accumulated almost 300 copies ing place for the city council.
of the Koran, representing the The building has been
works of master calligraphers. restored to its original condition
Entrance to Also on display are 6,000-year- and a permanent multimedia
Upper Yard old Babylonian stone tablets, exhibition, Dublin City Hall –
Greek papyri and biblical The Story of the Capital, traces the
material written in Coptic, the evolution of Dublin, from before
ancient language of Egypt. the Anglo-Norman invasion of
Treasures from the Far East 1170 to the present day.
Lower Yard
include a collection of Chinese
Dame Street jade books – each leaf is made
from thinly cut jade, engraved
with Chinese characters which
are then filled with gold.
Burmese and Siamese art is
represented by the collection
of 18th- and 19th-century
Parabaiks, books of folk tales
with colourful illustrations on
mulberry leaf paper. The
Japanese collection includes
paintings, woodblock prints and
The bright exterior of the state apartments books and scrolls from the 16th
seen from outside the walls of Dublin Castle to 19th centuries. One of the City Hall from Parliament Street




080-081_EW_Ireland.indd 81 08/03/17 11:05 am

82  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA


the 1960s turned it into a premises to young artists and
centre of specialist galleries, to record, clothing and book
antique shops, jewellery stalls, shops. The area developed an
cafés and other shop units. The “alternative” identity, and when
enclosed central courtyard, the development plans were
topped by a glass dome, is a scrapped the artists and retailers
popular meeting place with stayed on. Described by some
Dubliners. The centre can also cynics as the city’s “officially
be reached from Grafton Street designated arts zone”, Temple
down the Johnson Court alley. Bar today is is an odd mix of
excellent galleries and theatres
alongside kitsch tourist pubs,
5 Temple Bar souvenir shops, fast­food
restaurants and nightclubs
Map C3. Temple Bar Information
Tel 677 2255. See also Entertainment in popular with visiting stag and
Dublin p118. Project Arts Centre: hen parties.
39 East Essex Street. Tel 881 9613. Highlights include the Project
Irish Film Institute: 6 Eustace Street. Arts Centre, a highly respected
Central courtyard of Powerscourt Tel 679 5744. _ Diversions, (May– venue for avant­garde perform­
Townhouse Shopping Centre Sep). ∑ templebar.ie ance art; and the Irish Film
Institute, which shows art­
4 Powerscourt These narrow, cobbled streets house and inde pen dent films,
Centre running between the Bank of and has a popular restaurant/
Ireland (see p64) and Christ bar and shop.
South William St. Map D4. Tel 679 Church Cathedral are now home Nearby Meeting House Square,
4144. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri (8pm to some of the city’s best galleries with its retractable canopy, hosts
Thu), 9am–6pm Sat, noon–6pm Sun. and arts spaces, as well as the a diverse programme of outdoor
See also Shopping in Ireland pp332–3.
∑ powerscourtcentre.ie most raucous night spots. In the concerts, film screenings and
18th century the area was home theatre performances. The
Completed in 1774 by Robert to many insalubrious characters – National Photographic Archive
Mack, this grand mansion was Fownes Street was noted for its and Gallery of Photography are
built as the city home of brothels. It was also the birthplace also on the square and there is an
Viscount Powerscourt, who of parliamentarian Henry Grattan excellent organic food market
also had a country estate at (see p44). Skilled craftsmen and here on Saturdays, where you can
Enniskerry (see pp138–9). artisans, such as clockmakers sample oysters, salmon, cheese
Granite from the Powerscourt and printers, lived and worked and other local produce.
estate was used in its construc­ around Temple Bar until post­
tion. Today the building houses war industrialization led to a
one of Dublin’s best shopping decline in the area’s fortunes.
centres. Inside it still features In the 1970s, the CIE (the
the original grand mahogany national transport authority)
staircase, and detailed plaster­ bought up parcels of land in this
work by Michael Stapleton. area to build a major bus depot.
The building became a drap­ Before building, the CIE rented The Temple Bar pub, established in 1840,
ery warehouse in the 1830s, out, on cheap leases, some of located on Temple Bar
and major restoration during the old retail and warehouse
6 Wood Quay
Map B3.
Named after the timber
supports used to reclaim the
land, Wood Quay has undergone
excavations revealing the
remains of one of the earliest
Viking villages in Ireland (see
p83). The excavated area
opened to public view in 2008.
Valuable and informative
Viking artifacts that were
discovered can be seen at the
Dublinia exhibition (see p83)
and at the National Museum
People relaxing in cafés and bars in Temple Bar (see pp70–71).
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


082-083_EW_Ireland.indd 82 08/03/17 11:05 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHWEST DUBLIN  83


experience. Major events in
Dublin’s history, such as the
Black Death and the rebellion
of Silken Thomas (p42) are
also portrayed here, and there
is a large-scale model of Dublin
circa 1500. An interactive
archaeology room highlights
excavations at nearby Wood
Quay (see p82).
The 60-m (200-ft) high
St Michael’s Tower (with
96 steps) offers one of the
best vantage points for views
across the city.
Former Synod Hall, now home to the Dublinia exhibition
7 Christ Church exhibition is housed in the Neo-
Cathedral Gothic Synod Hall, which, up
until 1983, was home to the
See pp84–5. ruling body of the Church of
Ireland. The building and the
8 Dublinia and the hump-backed bridge linking it
to Christ Church Cathedral
Viking World date from the 1870s. Before
Dublinia was established in
St Michael’s Hill. Map B3. Tel 679
4611. Open Mar–Sep: 10am–6:30pm 1993, the Synod Hall was used
(last entry 5:30pm); Oct–Feb: 10am– as a nightclub.
5:30pm. Closed 24–26 Dec. The exhibition is interactive,
& charge to enter Christ Church encouraging the visitor to
Cathedral via bridge. 7 become an investi gator of
∑ dublinia.ie Dublin’s past. For instance, in
the Medieval Dublin exhibition,
The Dublinia exhibition covers the city’s sights and sounds Tower of St Audoen’s Church
the formative period of Dublin’s are brought to life. Crime
history from the arrival of the and punishment, death and 9 St Audoen’s
Anglo-Normans in 1170 to disease and even toothache Church
the closure of the monasteries remedies from 700 years ago High St, Cornmarket. Map B3.
in the 1540s (see p42). The are all part of the fascinating
Tel 677 0088. Open May–Oct
9:30am–5:30pm. 8
The Vikings in Dublin
Designated a national
Viking raiders arrived in Ireland in the late 8th century and founded monument and open for
Dublin in 841. They built a fort where the River Poddle met the Liffey visitors throughout the
at a black pool (Dubh Linn), on the site of Dublin Castle. They also summer months, St Audoen’s
established a settlement along the banks of the Liffey at Wood Quay is the earliest surviving
(see p82). Much of their trade was based on silver, slaves and piracy. medieval church in Dublin.
Following their defeat by Brian Ború at the Battle of Clontarf in 1014 The 15th-century nave
(see p38), the Vikings integrated fully with the local Irish, adopting remains intact and the three
Christian beliefs. After Strongbow’s Anglo-Norman invasion in 1169
(see p40), the flourishing Hiberno-Viking trading community declined, bells date from 1423. The
and many were banished to a separate colony called Oxmanstown, building stands in an attractive
just north of the river. churchyard with well-kept
lawns and shrubs. To the rear
of the churchyard, steps lead
down to St Audoen’s Arch, the
only remaining gateway of
the old city. Flanking the gate
are restored sections of the
13th-century city walls.
Next door stands St Audoen’s
Roman Catholic Church, which
was built in the 1840s. The two
Artist’s impression of a Viking ship in Dublin Bay Pacific clam shells by the front
door hold holy water.



082-083_EW_Ireland.indd 83 08/03/17 11:05 am

84  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

7 Christ Church Cathedral

Christ Church Cathedral was established by the
Hiberno-Norse king of Dublin, Sitric “Silkbeard”, . Medieval Lectern
and the first bishop of Dublin, Dunan. It was This beautiful brass
lectern in the crypt’s
rebuilt by the Anglo-Norman archbishop, treasury was hand-
John Cumin in 1186. It is the cathedral for the wrought during the
Church of Ireland (Anglican) diocese of Dublin Middle Ages. A
matching lectern stands
and Glendalough. By the 19th century it was in on the north side of the
a bad state of repair, but was remodelled by nave, in front of the pulpit.
architect George Street in the 1870s. The vast
12th-century crypt was restored in 2000.




















Great Nave
The 25-m (68-ft) high nave has some
fine early Gothic arches. On the north
side, the original 13th-century wall
leans out by as much as 50 cm (18 in)
due to the weight of the roof.





KEY
1 The bridge to the Synod Hall was
added when the cathedral was
being rebuilt in the 1870s.
2 Crypt
3 Medieval stone carvings are on
display in the north transept. Dating Entrance
from about 1200, these exquisite
Romanesque capitals feature a troupe . Strongbow
of musicians and two human faces Monument
enveloped by legendary griffons. The large effigy in
4 The Lady Chapel is used to chain armour is
celebrate the daily Eucharist. probably not
5 Stairs to crypt Strongbow. However,
his remains are buried
6 The foundations of the in the cathedral and
original Chapter House date the curious half-figure
back to the early 13th century. may be part of his
original tomb.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–311


084-085_EW_Ireland.indd 84 25/04/16 11:01 am

SOUTHWEST DUBLIN  85


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Christchurch Place.
Map B3.
Tel 677 8099.
∑ christchurchdublin.ie
The Cat and the Rat Open check website for details.
A mummified cat and rat are dis played in the Closed 26 Dec. &
Crypt. Found in an organ pipe, they grew to liter- 5 12:45pm Mon–Fri, 11am &
ary fame after James Joyce wrote of their chase. 3:30pm Sun. 7 limited.
Transport
@ 50, 66, 77 & other routes.
. Crypt
This decorated
plate by Francis
Garthorne is part
of a collection
presented to
Christ Church
Cathedral in
1690 by King
William III to mark
his victory at the Battle
of the Boyne in 1690.




















Romanesque Doorway
Leading to the south transept, this
ornately carved doorway is one of
the finest examples of 12th-century
Irish stonework.

1240 Completion of 1600 Shopkeepers 1689 King
stone cathedral rent crypt space James II of 1983 Cathedral
1038 Construction England ceases using
of original wooden worships in Synod Hall
Viking cathedral 1541 King Henry VIII alters cathedral
constitution of cathedral
1000 1200 1400 1600 1800
1186 The first 1742 Choir participates in 1871 Major
Anglo-Norman Meeting between first performance of rebuilding of
archbishop, John Lambert Simnel Handel’s Messiah the cathedral
Cumin, begins and the Earl 1487 Coronation of begins,
work on the of Kildare 10-year-old Lambert Simnel including Synod
new cathedral. (see p41) as King of England Hall and Bridge




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86  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA


0 Tailors’ Hall
Back Lane. Map B4. Tel 707 7076.
Open Mon–Fri by appointment only.
∑ antaisce.org
Dublin’s only surviving guild hall
preserves a delightful corner of
old Dublin in an otherwise busy
redevelop ment zone. Built in
1706, it stands behind a lime­
stone arch in a quiet cobbled
yard. The build ing is the oldest
guildhall in Ireland and was used
by various trade groups including
hosiers, saddlers and barber­
surgeons as well as tailors. It also
hosted political meetings –
Wolfe Tone addressed a public Saint Patrick’s Cathedral with Minot’s Tower and spire
United Irishmen rally here
before the 1798 rebellion (see q Saint Patrick’s Over the centuries, Saint
p45). The building closed in the Cathedral Patrick’s came to be seen as
early 1960s due to neglect, the people’s church, while the
but an appeal by Desmond Saint Patrick’s Close. Map B4. Tel 453 older Christ Church Cathedral
Guinness saw it refurbished. 9472. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon–Fri, (see pp84–5) nearby was more
9am–6pm Sat (to 5pm Nov–Feb),
It now houses An Taisce (the 9–10:30am, 12:30–2:30pm, 4:30–6pm associated with the British
Irish National Trust). establishment. In the mid­17th
Sun (to 2:30pm Nov–Feb). 5 Visiting
restricted during service times (9am & century, Huguenot refugees
5:30pm). & ∑ stpatrickscathedral.ie from France arrived in Dublin,
and were given the Lady Chapel
Ireland’s largest church was by the Dean and Chapter as
founded beside a sacred well their place of wor ship. The
where St Patrick is said to have chapel was separated from the
baptized converts circa AD 450. rest of the cathedral and used
A stone slab bearing a Celtic by the Huguenots until the late
cross and covering the well was 18th century. Today Saint
un earthed over a century ago. Patrick’s Cathedral is the
It is now preserved in the west Anglican/Episcopalian Church
end of the cathedral’s nave. The of Ireland’s national cathedral.
original building was just a Much of the present building
wooden chapel and remained dates back to work completed
so until 1192 when Archbishop between 1254 and 1270. The
Façade of Tailors’ Hall, home of the Irish John Cumin rebuilt the cathedral suffered over the
National Trust cathedral in stone. centuries from desecration, fire
and neglect but, thanks to the
Jonathan Swift (1667–1745) generosity of Sir Benjamin
Guinness, it underwent exten sive
Jonathan Swift was born in Dublin and restoration during the 1860s. The
educated at Trinity College (see pp66–7). building is 91 m (300 ft) long; at
He left for England in 1689, but the western end is a 43­m (141­ft)
returned in 1694 when his political tower, restored by Archbishop
career failed. Back in Ireland Minot in 1370 and now known
he began a life in the church, as Minot’s Tower. The spire was
becoming Dean of St Patrick’s in added in the 18th century.
1713. In addition to his clerical The interior is dotted with
duties, Swift was a prolific political
commentator – his best­known busts, brasses and monuments.
work, Gulliver’s Travels, contains a A leaflet available at the front
bitter satire on Anglo­Irish relations. desk helps identify them. The
Swift’s personal life, particularly his largest, most colourful and
friendship with two younger women, elaborate tomb was dedicated
Esther Johnson, better known as Stella, to the Boyle family in the
and Esther Vanhomrigh, attracted criticism. 17th century. Erected by Richard
In his final years, Swift suffered from Ménière’s disease – Boyle, Earl of Cork, in memory of
an illness of the ear which led many to believe him insane. his second wife Catherine, it is
decorated with painted figures
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


086-087_EW_Ireland.indd 86 08/03/17 11:05 am
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(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

SOUTHWEST DUBLIN  87


of his family, including his wife’s w Marsh’s Library
parents. Other famous citizens
remem bered in the church St Patrick’s Close. Map B4. Tel 454
include the harpist Turlough 3511. Open 9:30am–5pm Mon &
O’Carolan (1670–1738) (see p28) Wed–Fri, 10am–5pm Sat. Closed Tue
and Douglas Hyde (1860–1949), & Sun, 10 days at Christmas & public
hols. & ∑ marshlibrary.ie
the first president of Ireland.
Many visitors come to see the
memorials associated with The oldest public library in
Jonathan Swift, the satirical Ireland was built in 1701 for the
writer and Dean of Saint Patrick’s. Archbishop of Dublin, Narcissus
In the south aisle is “Swift’s Marsh. It was designed by
Corner”, containing various Sir William Robinson, architect
memorabilia such as an altar of much of Dublin Castle (see
table and a bookcase holding pp80–81) and the Royal Hospital
his death mask. A self­penned Kilmainham (see p101).
epitaph can be found on the Inside, the bookcases are
wall on the southwest side of topped by a mitre and feature
the nave. A few steps away, two carved gables with lettering in Statue of Virgin and Child in Whitefriar
brass plates mark his grave and gold leaf. To the rear of the Street Carmelite Church
that of his beloved Stella, who library are wired alcoves (or
died before him in 1728. “cages”) where readers were e Whitefriar Street
At the west end of the nave is locked in with rare books. The Carmelite Church
an old door with a hole in it – a collection, from the 16th, 17th
relic from a feud which took and early 18th centuries, 56 Aungier St. Map C4.
place between the Lords Kildare includes irreplaceable volumes, Tel 475 8821. Open 7:45am–6pm
Mon & Wed–Sat; 8am–7:30pm Tue;
and Ormonde in 1492. The latter such as Bishop Bedell’s 1685 9:30am–7pm Sun & public hols.
took refuge in the Chapter translation of the Old Testa ment ∑ whitefriarstreetchurch.ie
House, but a truce was soon into Irish, and Clarendon’s
made and a hole was cut in the History of the Rebellion, complete Designed by George Papworth,
door by Lord Kildare so the two with anti­Scottish margin notes this Catholic church was
could shake hands in friendship. by Jonathan Swift. built in 1827. It stands along­
side the site of a medieval
Carmelite foundation of which
nothing remains.
In contrast to the two Church
of Ireland cathedrals, St Patrick’s
and Christ Church, which are
usually full of tourists, this church
is frequen ted by city worshippers.
Every day they come to light
candles to various saints, includ­
ing St Valentine – the patron
saint of lovers. His remains,
previously buried in the cemetery
of St Hippolytus in Rome, were
offered to the church as a gift
from Pope Gregory XVI in 1836.
Today they rest beneath the
commemorative statue of
St Valentine, which stands in
the northeast corner of the
church beside the high altar.
Nearby is a Flemish oak statue
of the Virgin and Child, dating
from the late 15th or early
16th century. It may have
belonged to St Mary’s Abbey
(see p97) and is believed to be
the only wooden statue of its
kind to escape destruction
when Ireland’s monasteries
were sacked at the time of the
Carved monument (1632) to the Boyle family in St Patrick’s Cathedral Reformation (see p42).




086-087_EW_Ireland.indd 87 08/03/17 11:05 am

DORSET ST UPPER ST NORTH GREAT DENMARK ST
FREDERICK
HILL DOMINICK GRANBY PARNELL SQUARE EAST NORTH GREAT
GEORGE’S ST
RUTLAND PL
CONSTITUTION KING'S HENRIETTA DOMINICK PARNELL SQUARE WEST STR E E T
TEMPLE
ROW
COTTAGES
STREET UPPER
HENRIETTA
LANE
CATHAL
STREET

UPPER INNS PARK HENRIETTA PLACE BOLTON STREET KING'S INNS ST PLACE MOORE UPPER BRUGHA ST MARLBOROUGH
ST COLERAINE STREET LOFTUS LANE STR E E T MOORE ST S T R E ET
DOMINICK ST LOWER
CHURCH
KING ST NORTH GREEN CA PEL S T RE E T PARNE LL CHAPEL LN STREET CATHEDRAL STREET TA L B OT Busáras
PA R N E L L O’CONNELL ST
ST
LANE
STORE ST
EARL ST
NORTH
Abbey
SMITHFIELD AVENUE BOW STREET MATHEW BERESFORD ST CUCKOO HALSTON STREET STREET STREET MARY JE R VI S STRE E T STREET UPPER LIFFEY ST HENRY LOWER Street ST LOWER
FRIARY
LANE
ABBEY
FATHER
WOLFE TONE
Butt
MAY LANE CHURCH STREET SQUARE M ARY 'S L AN E CAPEL Jervis ABBEY ST MIDDLE EDEN QUAY Bridge Matt Talbot
Memorial
LOTTS
O’CONNELL ST
Four
Smithfield Courts GREEK ST ABBEY ST UPPER BACHELORS WALK O'Connell Bridge
LINCOLN LN CHANCERY STREET ARRAN ST EAST MARY'S STRAND STREET GREAT L i f f e y
Bridge
ORMOND QUAY LOWER
ABBEY ST
Bridge
ARRAN QUAY
CHANCERY
INNS QUAY PLACE ORMOND QUAY UPPER Grattan Millennium
Father Mathew Bridge
Bridge L i f f e y O'Donovan
Rossa Bridge
088-089_EW_Ireland.indd 88 08/03/17 3:08 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Area City, Further Afield template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 23rd July 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA  89

NORTH OF THE LIFFEY

Dublin’s northside was the last part of the historic General Post Office (see p93), add
city to be developed during the 18th grace to the area. The Rotunda Hospital,
century. The city authorities envisioned an Europe’s first purpose-built maternity
area of wide, leafy avenues, but the reality of hospital, is another fine building. Dublin’s
today’s heavy traffic has rather spoiled their two most celebrated theatres, the Abbey
original plans. Nonetheless, O’Connell Street, and the Gate, act as a cultural magnet, as
lined with fine statues and monuments, is do the Dublin Writers Museum and the
an impressive thoroughfare. This is where James Joyce Cultural Centre, two museums
Dubliners come to shop and some of the dedicated to writers who lived in the city.
adjacent streets, particularly Moore Street, Some of the city’s finest Georgian
have a colourful parade of stalls and street streetscapes are found in the north of
vendors offering cut-price tobacco. the city. Many have been neglected for
Some public buildings, such as James decades, but, thankfully, some areas, most
Gandon’s glorious Custom House and notably North Great George’s Street, are
majestic Four Courts, together with the undergoing restoration.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Libraries Theatres
5 James Joyce Centre 2 Abbey Theatre
9 Dublin Writers Museum 6 Gate Theatre
0 Hugh Lane Gallery Churches
e Old Jameson Distillery 4 St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral
u National Leprechaun Museum
r St Michan’s Church
Historic Buildings y St Mary’s Abbey
1 Custom House Parks and Gardens
7 Rotunda Hospital See also Street Finder map
q King’s Inns 8 Garden of Remembrance pp122–3
t Four Courts
Historic Streets
3 O’Connell Street
w Smithfield
i Ha’penny Bridge
DORSET ST UPPER ST NORTH GREAT DENMARK ST
FREDERICK
HILL COTTAGES GRANBY PARNELL SQUARE EAST NORTH GREAT
DOMINICK
GEORGE’S ST
RUTLAND PL
CONSTITUTION KING'S HENRIETTA DOMINICK PARNELL SQUARE WEST STREET
TEMPLE
ROW
STREET UPPER
HENRIETTA
LANE
CATHAL
STREET

UPPER INNS PARK HENRIETTA PLACE BOLTON STREET KING'S INNS ST PLACE MOORE UPPER BRUGHA ST MARLBOROUGH
ST COLERAINE STREET LOFTUS LANE ST R EET MOORE ST STRE E T
DOMINICK ST LOWER
CHURCH
KING ST NORTH GREEN CA PEL S T RE E T PARNE LL CHAPEL LN LANE CATHEDRAL STREET TALBO T Busáras
PA RNE L L O’CONNELL ST
ST
STORE ST
EARL ST
NORTH
STREET
Abbey
SMITHFIELD AVENUE BOW STREET MATHEW BERESFORD ST CUCKOO HALSTON STREET STREET STREET WOLFE TONE JE R VI S STRE E T STREET UPPER LIFFEY ST HENRY LOWER Street ST LOWER BERESFORD PLACE
FRIARY
ABBEY
LANE
MARY
FATHER
Butt
MAY LANE CHURCH STREET SQUARE M ARY' S L ANE CAPEL Jervis ABBEY ST MIDDLE EDEN QUAY Bridge Matt Talbot
Memorial
LOTTS
O’CONNELL ST
Four
Smithfield Courts GREEK ST ABBEY ST UPPER BACHELORS WALK O'Connell Bridge
LINCOLN LN CHANCERY STREET ARRAN ST EAST MARY'S STRAND STREET GREAT L i f f e y
Bridge
ORMOND QUAY LOWER
ABBEY ST
Bridge
ARRAN QUAY
CHANCERY
INNS QUAY PLACE ORMOND QUAY UPPER Grattan Millennium
Father Mathew Bridge
Bridge L i f f e y O'Donovan 0 metres 250
Rossa Bridge
0 yards 250
The central dome and the portico of Custom House For map symbols see back flap
088-089_EW_Ireland.indd 89 08/03/17 3:08 pm

90  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Around O’Connell Street

Throughout the Georgian era, O’Connell
Street was very much the fashionable 5 James Joyce
Centre
part of Dublin to live in. How ever, the This well-restored
1916 Easter Rising destroyed many of the Georgian town house N T H G T G E O R G E ´ S S T
fine buildings along the street, including contains a small
Joyce museum.
much of the General Post Office – only its
original façade still stands. Today, this
main thoroughfare is lined with shops Parnell
and businesses. Other attractions nearby Monument
include St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral and (1911)
James Gandon’s Custom House, PA R N E L L S T R E E T
overlooking the Liffey.



6 Gate Theatre C AT H A L B R U G H A S T
Founded in 1928, the Gate is
renowned for its productions
PA R N E L L S Q
of contemporary drama.






C AT H E D R A L S T



M O O R E L A N E

7 Rotunda Hospital M O O R E S T R E E T O ´ C O N N E L L S T R E E T E A R L S T R E E T N O R T H
Housed in the Rotunda Hospital is a chapel H E N R Y P L
built in the 1750s to a design by Richard
Cassels. It features lovely stained-glass
windows, fluted columns, panelling and
H E N R Y S T R E E T
intricate iron balustrades.
Moore Street
Market is the busiest
of the streets off
O’Connell. Be The Spire, an elegant
prepared for the shrill stainless steel landmark
cries of the stall rising to 120 m (394 ft).
holders offering an
enormous variety of
fresh fruit, vegetables
and cut flowers. The General Post Office, the
grandest building on
O’Connell Street, was the
centre of the 1916 Rising.
Key 0 metres 50
Suggested route 0 yards 50



For key to symbols see back flap


090-091_EW_Ireland.indd 90 08/03/17 11:05 am

NOR TH OF THE LIFFEY  91


4 St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral
Built around 1825, this is
Dublin’s main place of worship
for Catholics. The plaster relief
NORTH OF
above the altar in the sanctuary THE LIFFEY
depicts The Ascension.
SOUTHWEST
DUBLIN SOUTHEAST
DUBLIN
N T H G T G E O R G E ´ S S T
Locator Map
See Street Finder map pp122–3




C AT H A L B R U G H A S T




The statue of James Joyce (1990) by
Marjorie Fitzgibbon commemorates one of
Ireland’s most famous novelists. Born in
Dublin in 1882, he catalogued the people
and streets of Dublin in Dubliners and in his
most celebrated work, Ulysses.
1. Custom House
C AT H E D R A L S T This Classical grotesque head,
by Edward Smyth, symbolizes
2 Abbey Theatre the River Liffey. It is one of 14
Ireland’s national theatre is carved keystones that adorn
known throughout the the building.
E A R L S T R E E T N O R T H Sean O’Casey and J M Synge.
world for its productions by
Irish playwrights, such as
O ´ C O N N E L L S T R E E T
James Larkin
Statue (1981)
M A R L B O R O U G H S T
S A C K V I L L E P L H O U S E Q U AY
C U S T O M
A B B E Y S T R E E T L R



E D E N Q U AY
L I F F E Y Butt Bridge


3. O’Connell Street
This monument to Daniel
O’Connell by John Foley took
O’Connell Bridge 19 years to complete from
Rosie Hackett the laying of its foundation
To Trinity College Bridge stone in 1864.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


090-091_EW_Ireland.indd 91 08/03/17 11:05 am

92  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA























Façade of the Custom House reflected in the Liffey
1 Custom House Ireland’s main rivers and Sean O’Casey. Many were
the Atlantic Ocean. Topping controversial: nationalist sensi­
Custom House Quay. Map E2
Tel 888 2000. Closed to the central copper dome tivities were severely tested in
the public. is a statue of Commerce, 1926 during the premiere of
while the north façade O’Casey’s The Plough and the
This majestic is decorated with figures Stars when the flag of the Irish
building was representing Europe, Free State appeared on stage in
designed as the Africa, America and Asia. a scene which featured a pub
Custom House The best view of the frequented by prostitutes.
by the English building is from Today, the Abbey is supported
architect James the south of the by the Arts Council of Ireland/
Gandon. How­ Sculpture symbolizing Liffey beyond Matt An Chomhairle Ealaíon and its
ever, just nine Ireland’s rivers, by Talbot Bridge. function is to nurture new Irish
years after its Edward Smyth writing and artistic talent and
completion, the produce an annual programme
1800 Act of Union (see p46) 2 Abbey Theatre of diverse, engaging, innovative
transferred the customs and 26 Lower Abbey St. Map E2. Tel 878 Irish and international theatre.
excise business to London, 7222. Open for performances only. Productions have included
rendering the building Box office: Open 10:30am–7pm Mon– work by Wilde, Beckett, Shakes­
practically obsolete. In 1921, Sat. See also Entertainment in Dublin peare and Brecht, as well as plays
supporters of Sinn Féin cele­ p112. ∑ abbeytheatre.ie by Marina Carr, Tom Mac Intyre,
brated their election victory Billy Roche and Sam Shepard.
by setting light to what they The Abbey staged its first play
saw as a symbol of British in 1904 with W B Yeats and
imperialism. The fire blazed for Lady Gregory as co­directors. The 3 O’Connell Street
five days causing extensive early years of this much­lauded Map D1–D2.
damage. Reconstruction took national theatre witnessed works
place in 1926, although by W B Yeats, J M Synge and O’Connell Street is very different
further deterioration meant from the original plans of Irish
that the building was not aristocrat Luke Gardiner. When
completely restored until he bought the land in the
1991, when it re opened as mid­18th century, Gardiner
government offices. envi sioned a grand residential
The main façade is made up parade with an elegant mall
of pavilions at each end with a running along its centre. Such
Doric portico in its centre. The plans were short­lived. The
arms of Ireland crown the two con struction of Carlisle (now
pavilions and a series of 14 O’Connell) Bridge around 1790
allegorical heads, by Dublin transformed the street into the
sculptor Edward Smyth, form city’s main north–south route.
the keystones of arches and Also, several buildings were
entrances. These heads depict Logo of the Abbey Theatre destroyed during the 1916 Easter
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


092-093_EW_Ireland.indd 92 08/03/17 11:05 am
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NOR TH OF THE LIFFEY  93


Rising and the Irish Civil War.
Since the 1960s many of the old
buildings have been replaced
by the plate glass and neon of
fast-food joints, amusement
arcades and chain stores.
A few venerable buildings
remain, such as the General
Post Office (1818), Gresham
Hotel (1817), the former Clery’s
depart ment store (1822) and
the Royal Dublin Hotel, part of
which occupies the street’s only
original town house.
A walk down the central mall
is the most enjoyable way The busy thoroughfare of O’Connell Street
to see the street’s mix of
architectural styles and take a Pioneer Total Abstinence 4 St Mary’s Pro-
close look at the Movement. At the north end of
series of monuments the street is the Cathedral
lining the route. At the obelisk-shaped 83 Marlborough St. Map D2. Tel 874
south end stands a monument to 5441. Open 7:30am–6:45pm Mon–Fri
massive monument to Charles Stewart Parnell (to 7:15pm Sat), 9am–1:45pm & 5:30–
Daniel O’Connell (see p46), (1846–91), who was 7:45pm Sun, 10am–1:30pm public hols.
unveiled in 1882. The leader of the Home Rule ∑ procathedral.ie
street, which throughout Party and known as the
the 19th century had “uncrowned King of Dedicated in 1825 before Catholic
been called Sackville Ireland” (see p47). The Dublin emancipation (see p46), St Mary’s
Street, was renamed after Spire sits on the site where backstreet site was the best the
O’Connell in 1922. Higher Nelson’s column used to be. city’s Anglo-Irish leaders would
up, almost facing the It is a stainless steel, allow a Catholic cathedral.
General Post Office, is conical spire which The façade is based on a
an animated statue of Statue of James Larkin tapers from a 3-m Greek temple. Doric columns
James Larkin, leader (1981) in O’Connell Street (10-ft) diameter base support a pediment with
of the Dublin general to a 10-cm (4-in) statues of St Mary, St Patrick
strike in 1913. The next statue is pointed tip of optical glass at a and St Laurence O’Toole,
of Father Theobald Mathew height of 120 m (394 ft), making 12th-century Archbishop of
(1790–1856), founder of the it the city’s tallest structure. Dublin and patron saint of the
city. Inside, one striking feature is
The General Post Office (GPO) the intricately carved high altar.
St Mary’s is home to the
Built in 1818 halfway along famous Palestrina Choir, with
O’Connell Street, the GPO became which the great tenor John
a symbol of the 1916 Irish Rising. McCormack (see p28) began his
Members of the Irish Volunteers career in 1904. The choir still
and Irish Citizen Army seized the sings on Sundays at 11am.
building on Easter Monday, and
Patrick Pearse (see p48) read out
the Proclamation of the Irish
Republic in front of it. The rebels
remained inside for a week, but
shelling from the British eventually
forced them out. At first, many
viewed the Rising unfavourably.
However, as W B Yeats wrote,
matters “changed utterly” and
a “terrible beauty was born”
when, during the following
Irish Life magazine cover show ing the weeks, 14 of the leaders were
1916 Easter Rising caught and shot at Kilmainham
Gaol (see p101). A museum has a
copy of the 1916 Proclamation and accounts from the staff who were
working that day. It also explores the influence of the post office in
Ireland, and has a beautiful stamp collection. Austere Neo-Classical interior of
St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral




092-093_EW_Ireland.indd 93 08/03/17 11:05 am

94  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

5 James Joyce
Centre James Joyce
(1882–1941)
35 North Great George’s St. Map D1. Born in Dublin, Joyce spent most
Tel 878 8547. Open 10am–5pm Tue– of his adult life in Europe. He
Sat, noon–5pm Sun. Closed Good Fri, used the city of Dublin as the
21 Dec–3 Jan & public hols. & 8 setting for all his major works
∑ jamesjoyce.ie including Dubliners, A Portrait
This agreeable stop on the literary of the Artist as a Young Man and
tourist trail is primarily a meeting Ulysses. Joyce claimed that if
the city was ever destroyed it
place for Joyce enthusiasts, but could be re created through
is also worth visiting for its the pages of Ulysses, one of
Georgian interior. The centre is the most important works
in a 1784 town house which of Modernist literature.
was built for the Earl of
Kenmare. Michael Stapleton,
one of the greatest stuccoers Importance of Being Oscar, his
of his time, contributed to the long-running one-man show
plasterwork, of which the friezes about the writer Oscar Wilde
are particularly noteworthy. (see p26). An early success was
The centre’s permanent and Denis Johnston’s The Old Lady
temporary exhibitions interpret Says No, so-called because of
and illuminate aspects of Joyce’s the margin notes made on one
life and work. Among the of his scripts by Lady Gregory,
displays are biographies of real founding direc tor of the Abbey
people on whom Joyce based Theatre (see p92). Although still
his characters. Professor Dennis noted for staging new plays, the
J Maginni, a peripheral character Gate’s current output often
in Ulysses, ran a dancing school includes classic Irish plays.
from this town house. Leopold The Gate Theatre, where new and classic Among the young talent to
and Molly Bloom, the central plays are staged get their first break here were
characters of Ulysses, lived a James Mason and a teenage
short walk away at No. 7 Eccles 6 Gate Theatre Orson Welles.
Street. The centre also organizes 1 Cavendish Row. Map D1. Open for
walking tours of Joyce’s Dublin. performances only. Box office: Tel 874
At the top of the road, on 4045. Open 10am–7pm Mon–Sat. 7 Rotunda Hospital
Great Denmark Street, is the See also Entertainment in Dublin p112. Parnell Square West. Map D1.
Jesuit-run Belvedere College ∑ gatetheatre.ie Tel 817 1700. ∑ rotunda.ie
attended by Joyce between
1893 and 1898. He recalls his Renowned for its staging of Standing in the middle of
unhappy schooldays there in A contemporary international Parnell Square is Europe’s
Portrait of the Artist as a Young drama in Dublin, the Gate first purpose-built maternity
Man. The college’s interior Theatre was founded in 1928 hos pital. Founded in 1745 by
contains some of Stapleton’s by Hilton Edwards and Mícheál Dr Bartholomew Mosse, the
best and most colourful Mac Liammóir. The latter is now design of the hospital is
plasterwork (1785). best remembered for The similar to that of Leinster
House (see p69). German-born
architect Richard Cassels
designed both buildings, as
well as Powerscourt Centre
(see p82) and Russborough
House (see pp136–7).
On the first floor is a beautiful
chapel featuring striking stained-
glass windows and exuberant
Rococo plaster work and ceiling
(1755) by the German stuccoer
Bartholomew Cramillion. The
ceiling portrays the symbol of
fertility and the virtues of faith,
hope and charity.
Nowadays, over 8,000 babies
are born in the Rotunda
Stained-glass Venetian window (c.1863) in Rotunda Hospital’s chapel Hospital every year.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


094-095_EW_Ireland.indd 94 08/03/17 11:05 am
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Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR TH OF THE LIFFEY  95

8 Garden of
Remembrance
Parnell Square. Map C1. Tel 821 3021.
Open Apr–Sep: 8:30am–6pm daily;
Oct–Mar: 9:30am–4pm daily.
∑ heritageireland.ie
At the northern end of Parnell
Square is a park dedicated to the
men and women who have died
in the pursuit of Irish freedom.
The Garden of Remembrance
marks the spot where several
leaders of the 1916 Easter Rising
were held overnight before being Gallery of Writers at Dublin Writers Museum
taken to Kilmainham Gaol (see
p101). The Irish Volunteers move- 9 Dublin Writers upstairs. The museum also hosts
ment was formed here in 1913. Museum frequent poetry readings and
Designed by Daithí Hanly, the lectures. A specialist bookstore,
garden was opened by President 18 Parnell Sq North. Map C1. providing an out-of-print search
Eamon de Valera (see p49) in 1966, Tel 872 2077. Open 9:45am–4:45pm service, adds to the relaxed,
to mark the 50th anniversary of Mon–Sat; 11am–4:30pm Sun & public friendly ambience.
hols (last adm: 45 mins before closing).
the Easter Rising. In the centre is a Closed 25 & 26 Dec. & =
cruciform pool. ∑ writersmuseum.com
A mosaic on the 0 Hugh Lane
pool floor depicts Opened in 1991, the museum Gallery
abandoned weapons occupies a tasteful 18th-
and shields, century town house. There Charlemont House, Parnell Square
symbolizing peace. are displays relating to Irish North. Map C1. Tel 222 5550. Open
The focal point at literature in all its forms from 9:45am–6pm Tue–Thu, 9:45am–5pm
Fri, 10am–5pm Sat, 11am–5pm Sun.
one end of the 300 years ago to the Closed 24–28 Dec. ∑ hughlane.ie
garden is a bronze present day. The
sculpture by Oisín exhibits include Art collector Sir Hugh Lane
Kelly of the Children of paintings, manu- donated his collection of
Lir (1971), who were scripts, letters, 39 Impressionist paintings to
changed into swans by rare editions and the Dublin Corporation in 1908.
their step-mother Children of Lir in the mementos of Thirty-one of these renowned
(see p31). Queen Garden of Remembrance many of Ireland’s works by Manet, Degas, Renoir,
Elizabeth laid a finest authors. There Vuillard and others are housed
commemorative wreath in the are a number of tem porary in the Hugh Lane Gallery in
gardens during her historic state exhibits and a sumptuously Charlemont House. The
visit to Ireland in 2011. decorated Gallery of Writers remaining eight paintings are
shared with the National Gallery
in London and are loaned back
to Dublin every few years.
Besides the Lane bequest of
Impressionist paintings, the
Hugh Lane gallery has an
extensive collection of modern
and contemporary Irish and
international art. It includes
stained-glass windows by Irish
artists, such as The Eve of
St Agnes by Harry Clarke, and a
sculpture hall with work by
Rodin and others. An exciting
addition in 1998 was a bequest
by John Edwards of the contents
of Francis Bacon’s renowned
London studio. Sean Scully, who
like Francis Bacon was born in
Dublin, gifted a series of his
abstract expressionist paintings
Beach Scene (c.1876) by Edgar Degas, Hugh Lane Gallery to the gallery in 2006.




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96  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA












Detail of woodcarving (c.1724) at St Michan’s Church
q King’s Inns w Smithfield r St Michan’s
Henrietta St/Constitution Hill. Map B1. Map A2. Church
Closed to the public. ∑ kingsinns.ie Church St. Map B3. Tel 872 4154.
Laid out in the mid-17th century
This classically proportioned as a marketplace, Smithfield Open mid-Mar–Oct: 10am–12:45pm
public building was founded in used to be one of Dublin’s oldest & 2–4:45pm Mon–Fri, 10am–12:45pm
Sat; Nov–mid-Mar: 12:30–3:30pm
1800 as a place of residence residential areas. However the Mon–Fri, 10am–12:45pm Sat. & 8
and study for barristers. To 2.5-acre space received a = 7 limited. ∑ stmichans.com
build it, James Gandon chose £3.5 million makeover in the
to seal off the end of Henrietta early 2000s, resulting in this Largely rebuilt in 1685 on the
Street, which at the time was well-designed pedestrian site of an 11th-century Hiberno-
one of Dublin’s most fashion- cobbled plaza surrounded by Viking church, the dull façade of
able addresses. Francis Johnston contemporary architecture. St Michan’s hides a more
added the graceful cupola in Known locally as Smithfield exciting interior. Deep in its
1813, and the build ing was Square, it is used as a venue for vaults lie a number of bodies
finally completed in 1817. outdoor civic events. The preserved because of the dry
Inside is a fine Dining Hall, Lighthouse cultural cinema is a atmosphere created by the
and the Registry of Deeds welcome addition to the area. church’s mag nesian limestone
(formerly the Prerogative walls. Their wooden caskets,
Court). The west façade has e Old Jameson however, have cracked open,
two door ways flanked by revealing the intact bodies,
Classical cary atids carved by Distillery complete with skin and strands
Edward Smyth. The male figure, Bow St. Map A2. Tel 807 2355. of hair. Among those thought to
with book and quill, repre sents Open 9am–6pm daily (from 10am lie here are the brothers Henry
the law. Sun). Last tour: 5:30pm. Closed Good and John Sheares, leaders of the
Sadly, much of the area Fri, 24–26 Dec. & 8 0 = 1798 rebellion (see p45), who
around Constitution Hill is ∑ jamesonwhiskey.com were executed that year.
less attractive than it was in Other less gory attractions
Georgian times. However, the Proof of investment in the include an organ (1724) on which
gardens, which are open to emerging Smithfield area is Handel is said to have played. It
the public, are still pleasing. this large exhibition in a is thought that the churchyard
restored part of John Jameson’s contains the unmarked grave of
distillery, which produced United Irishman Robert Emmet
whiskey from 1780 until 1971. (see p81), leader of the abortive
A visit here starts with a video 1803 Rising.
and further whiskey-related
facts are then explained on a
40-minute tour. This takes you t Four Courts
around displays set out as a Inn's Quay (public entrance: Morgan
working distillery, with dif ferent Place). Map B3. Tel 888 6000.
rooms devoted to the various Open 9:30am–12:30pm, 2–4:30pm
stages of production. Mon–Fri (when courts in session).
The tour guides show
how the Irish process differs Completed in 1802 by James
from that of Scotch whisky: Gandon, this majestic public
here the barley is dried with building was virtually gutted
clean air, while in Scotland it is 120 years later during the Irish
smoked over peat. The claim Civil War (see pp48–9). The
is that the Irish product is a Public Records Office, with
smoother, less smoky tipple. its irreplaceable collection of
The west façade of King's Inns, with its After the tour, visitors can documents dating back to
caryatids and two doorways sample this in the bar. the 12th cen tury, was also
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


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NOR TH OF THE LIFFEY  97


destroyed by fire. By 1932,
the main buildings were
sympathetically restored using
Gandon’s original design. An
imposing copper-covered
lantern dome rises above the
six-columned Corinthian
portico, which is crowned with
the figures of Moses, Justice,
Mercy, Wisdom and Authority.
This central section is flanked by
two wings containing the four
original courts. An information
panel gives details about the
building’s history.

y St Mary’s Abbey The Ha’penny Bridge connecting Temple Bar to Liffey Street
Meetinghouse Lane. Map C2. Tel 833 i Ha’penny Bridge
1618. Closed until further notice; is the vaulted chamber of the
check website in advance & Chapter House containing a Map D3.
∑ heritageireland.ie model of how it would have
looked 800 years ago. Linking the Temple Bar area
Founded by Benedictines in (see p82) and Liffey Street, this
1139, but transferred to the u National high-arched cast-iron foot-
Cistercian order in 1147, this bridge is used by thousands of
was one of the largest and Leprechaun people every day. It was built by
most impor tant monasteries Museum John Windsor, an ironworker
in medieval Ireland. As well as from Shropshire, England. One
controlling extensive estates, Twilfit House, Jervis St. Map C2. of Dublin’s most photographed
Tel 873 3899. Open 10am–6:30pm
the abbey acted as state daily (last adm 5:45pm), evening tours sights, it was originally named
treasury and meeting place for 7:30pm & 8pm Fri & Sat. & 7 - the Wellington Bridge. It is now
the Council of Ireland. It was ∑ leprechaunmuseum.ie officially called the Liffey Bridge,
during a council meeting in but is also known as the
St Mary’s that “Silken Thomas” This charming museum focuses Ha’penny Bridge. Opened in
Fitzgerald (see p42) renounced on Irish myths and folklore, taking 1816, the bridge got its better-
his allegiance to Henry VIII and visitors inside Celtic culture to known nickname from the
marched out to raise the short- learn about lepre chauns, fairies, halfpenny toll that was levied
lived rebellion of 1534. The banshees and other mythological on it up until 1919. Restoration
monastery was dissolved in creatures. Children will enjoy work, which included the
1539 and during the 17th the lively storytelling by expert installation of period lanterns,
century the site served as a guides, but there is plenty to has made the bridge even
quarry. All that remains today keep adults amused too. more attractive.




















James Gandon’s Four Courts overlooking the River Liffey




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