(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Ireland

DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA  99

FURTHER AFIELD

There are many interesting sights just architecture. The magnificent coastline with
outside the city centre. The best part of a day its stunning views of Dublin Bay is easily
can be spent exploring the western suburbs reached by the DART rail network. It
taking in the Museum of Modern Art housed encompasses the towering promontory of
in the splendid Royal Kilmainham Hospital Howth, while the highlights of the southern
and the eerie Kilmainham Gaol. Phoenix stretch are around Dalkey village and Killiney
Park, Europe’s largest city park, is a good Bay. One of many Martello towers built as
place for a stroll and also has a zoo. Further defences along this coast is known as the
north are the National Botanic Gardens, with James Joyce Tower and houses a collection
over 20,000 plant species from around the of Joyce memorabilia. To the northeast, a bit
world. Nearby is Casino Marino, one of further from the city centre, is Malahide
Ireland’s finest examples of Palladian Castle, former home of the Talbot family.
Sights at a Glance
Museums and Galleries Historic Buildings Key
2 Kilmainham Gaol 7 Casino Marino Main sightseeing areas
3 Irish Museum of Modern Art– 8 Dublin Docklands Motorway
Royal Hospital Kilmainham q Malahide Castle
4 Guinness Storehouse® Towns and Villages Major road
6 National Print Museum w Howth Minor road
9 National Museum of Ireland – Railway
Decorative Arts & History e Dun Laoghaire
r James Joyce Tower t Dalkey
y Killiney
Parks and Gardens
1 Phoenix Park 0 kilometres 4
5 National Botanic Gardens 0 miles 2
0 Glasnevin Cemetery
Swords Drogheda
Greater Dublin and Environs Malahide
M1
M2
Dublin
Portmarnock
Navan
Ireland’s
N3 M1 Eye
M50 Finglas Santry
Sutton
Blanchardstown Coolock
Howth
Royal Canal
Marino
Phibsborough
Clontarf
Liffey
Maynooth Dublin
DUBLIN
N4
Liverpool, Heysham,
Douglas
Sandymount Dublin
Clondalkin Crumlin Rathmines Bay Holyhead
N7 N11
M50
Blackrock Dun
Naas N81 Laoghaire
Tallaght Stillorgan
Dundrum Dun
Laoghaire
Sandyford
Dalkey
N11
M50
Bray
A greenhouse in the National Botanic Gardens, Dublin For map symbols see back flap
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100  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

1 Phoenix Park
Park Gate, Conyngham Rd, Dublin 8.
@ 10, 25, 26, 37, 38, 39 & many other
routes. Open daily. Phoenix Park
Visitor Centre: Tel 677 0095.
Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm daily;
Nov–Mar: 9:30am–5:30pm Wed–
Sun. & = 0 7 ground floor
only. ∑ phoenixpark.ie
Zoo: Tel 474 8900. Open Mar–Sep:
9:30am– 6pm daily; Oct: 9:30am–
5:30pm daily; Nov–Dec: 9:30am–4pm
daily; Jan: 9:30am–4:30pm daily; Feb:
9:30am–5pm daily. (last adm: 1 hr
before closing). & 0 7 =
∑ dublinzoo.ie
Just to the west of the city The Phoenix Column in Dublin, erected by the fourth Earl of Chesterfield in 1747
centre, ringed by an 11-km
(7-mile) wall, is Europe’s largest Dublin Zoo, established in from captured French cannons.
enclosed city park. The name 1831, making it the third oldest The 27-m (90-ft) steel Papal
“Phoenix” is said to be a cor- zoo in the world. The zoo is Cross marks the spot where the
ruption of the Gaelic Fionn Uisce, renowned for the successful pope celebrated Mass in front
or “clear water”. The Phoenix breeding of lions, including of over one million people in
Column is crowned by a statue the one that appears at the 1979. Buildings within the park
of the mythical bird. Phoenix beginning of MGM movies. include two 18th-century houses:
Park originated in 1662, when The African Plains Savanna Áras an Uachtaráin, the Irish
the Duke of Ormonde turned houses the larger residents. President’s official residence, for
the land into a deer park. In In addition to the Phoenix which 525 tickets are issued
1745 it was landscaped and Column, the park has two other every Saturday for a free guided
opened to the public. conspicuous monuments. The tour, and Deerfield, home of the
Near Park Gate is the lake side Wellington Testimonial, a 63-m US Ambassador. Ashtown
People’s Garden – the only part (206-ft) obelisk, was begun in Castle is a restored 17th-century
of the park which has been 1817 and completed in 1861. tower house, now home to the
cultivated. A little further on is Its bronze bas-reliefs were made Phoenix Park Visitor Centre.
Phoenix Park
1 Ashtown Castle
Ashtown 2 Deerfield
Gate
NAVAN (N3) CASTLEKNOCK ROAD 3 Papal Cross
Castleknock 4 Phoenix Column
Gate B L A C K H O R S E A V E N U E 5 Áras An Uachtaráin
6 Dublin Zoo
White’s 7 Wellington Testimonial
Gate
Cabra 8 People’s Garden
Gate
C H E S T E R F I E L D A V E N U E


Knockmaroon
Gate C H E S T E R F I E L D A V E N U E
NCR
Gate
KNOCKM A R OON HILL
Park
Islandbridge CONYNGHAM RD Gate
Gate
DUBLIN
West Link (M50) Chapelizod NAAS (N7)
Gate
C H A P E L I Z O D R O A D L i ff e y
0 metres 500
0 yards 500
For key to symbols see back flap


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FUR THER AFIELD  101

3 Irish Museum
of Modern Art –
Royal Hospital
Kilmainham
Military Road, Kilmainham, Dublin 8.
Tel 612 9900. £ Heuston Station.
@ 51, 51B, 78A, 79, 79a, 90, 123.
Irish Museum of Modern Art:
Open 10am–5:30pm Tue–Sat,
10:30am–5:30pm Wed, noon–5:30pm
Sun & public hols (last adm: 5:15pm).
Closed Good Fri & 24–27, 31 Dec.
8 1:15pm Wed, 2:30pm Sat & Sun.
- = 7 limited. Gardens open all
year. ∑ imma.ie
Ireland’s finest surviving 17th-
century building was laid out in
1684, styled on Les Invalides in
Paris. It was built by Sir William
Robinson as a home for 300
wounded soldiers – a role it kept
until 1927. When it was comp-
leted, people were so impressed
by its Classical symmetry that it
was suggest ed it would be better
used as a campus for Trinity
College. The Baroque chapel
Restored central hall at Kilmainham Gaol has fine carvings and intricate
stained glass. The Formal
2 Kilmainham Gaol wounded colleague James Gardens, restored using many
Connolly, un able to stand up, of the 17th-century designs,
Inchicore Rd, Kilmainham, Dublin 8. was strapped into a chair before are now open to the public.
Tel 453 5984. @ 51B, 51C, 69, 73,
78A, 79. Open Apr–Sep: 9:30am–6pm being shot. You also pass the The hospital’s former
daily; Oct–Mar: 9:30am–5:30pm Mon– dank cells of those involved in residential quarters now
Sat, 10am–6pm Sun & public hols (last the 1798, 1803, 1848 and 1867 house the Irish Museum of
adm: 1 hr before closing). Closed 24, uprisings, as well as the punish- Modern Art, opened in 1991.
25 & 26 Dec. & 8 advance booking ment cells and hanging room. The collection includes a
Ashtown for groups. - = 7 limited. Among the exhibits are personal cross-section of Irish and
Gate
NAVAN (N3) CASTLEKNOCK ROAD ∑ kilmainhamgaolmuseum.ie mementos of some of the interna tional modern and
Castleknock former inmates and depictions contemporary art, comprising
Gate B L A C K H O R S E A V E N U E A long tree-lined avenue runs of various events which took some 3,500 works mainly from
from the Royal Hospital Kilmain- place in the Gaol until it closed the 1940s to the present day,
White’s ham to the grim, grey bulk of down in 1924. which are displayed on a
Gate
Cabra Kilmainham Gaol. The building Part of the tour takes place rotating basis and include
Gate
was opened in 1796, but was outside so dress accordingly. special visiting exhibitions.
restored in the 1960s. During its
C H E S T E R F I E L D A V E N U E
130 years as a prison, it housed
many of those involved in the
fight for Irish indepen dence,
including Robert Emmet (see p81)
Knockmaroon
Gate and Charles Stewart Parnell (p47).
The last prisoner held was Eamon
de Valera (p49), who was trans-
NCR
Gate
C H E S T E R F I E L D A V E N U E
ferred from Kilmainham in April
1924 before being finally
KNOCKM A R OON HILL
released on 16 July.
Park
Islandbridge CONYNGHAM RD Gate The tour includes the chapel,
Gate
DUBLIN
where Joseph Plunkett married
Grace Gifford a few hours before
West Link (M50) Chapelizod NAAS (N7)
Gate
C H A P E L I Z O D R O A D L i ff e y he faced the firing squad for his
part in the 1916 Rising (see pp48–
9). The tours end in the prison
yard where Plunkett’s badly The Royal Hospital Kilmainham designed by Sir William Robinson in the 1680s
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11
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102  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

The Brewing of Guinness

Guinness is a black beer, known as “stout”, renowned
for its distinctive malty flavour and smooth creamy
head. From its humble beginnings over 200 years ago,
the Guinness brewery site at St James’s Gate now
sprawls across 26 ha (65 acres). It is the largest
brewery in Europe and exports beers to more than
120 countries through out the world. Other famous
brands owned by Guinness include Harp Lager and
Smithwick’s Ale.
Guinness Storehouse's rooftop Gravity Bar
4 Guinness Barley How Guinness is Made
Storehouse® The four main ingredients used to brew Guinness
are barley, hops, yeast and water which,
St James’s Gate, Dublin 8.
Tel 408 4800. @ 78A, 51B, 123. contrary to popular belief, comes from the
Open 9:30am–5pm (to 7pm Jul Wicklow Mountains rather than the River Liffey.
& Aug) daily. Closed Good Fri, Flaked
24–26 Dec. & 7 = - 0 barley
∑ guinness-storehouse.com
Malted barley
The Guinness Storehouse®
is a development based in Water
St James’s Gate Brewery, the Roasted
original house of Guinness, barley Masher
now completely remodelled.
This 1904 listed building covers Grist
nearly four acres of floor space Kieve
over seven floors built around Grist
a huge glass atrium. The first mill
impression the visitor has is of
walking into a large glass pint,
with light spilling down from Irish barley is prepared in
above; there's a copy of the 1three ways – malted, flaked
and roasted (to give the
original lease signed by Arthur distinctive tint). These are
Guinness enshrined on the all ground together in a
floor. The Ingredients section is grist mill to form a grist.
next, where visitors can touch,
smell and feel the ingredients
through interactive displays. The grist is mixed together with
The tour continues into an 2hot water and mashed into a Sweet
porridge­like consistency. The
authentic Georgian anteroom mixture is strained into a kieve, wort
to “meet” Arthur Guinness and or mash tun, and left to stand Residual husks
are removed
see him at work. The Brewing for an hour. Here starches are
Exhibition is a noisy, steamy turned into sugars, producing
and “hoppy” area, which creates a dark, sweet wort.
the impression of brewing all
around and provides a full
explanation of the process.
The historical development of Guinness
Guinness cooperage is accom­ advertising has
panied by video footage of the become almost as
craft. Models and displays tell famous as the
product itself.
the story of Guinness Since 1929,
transportation, the appeal of when the first
Guinness world­wide, and the advertisement
company's popular advertising announced that “Guinness is Good
campaigns. The tour ends with for You”, poster and tele vision
a free pint of draught Guinness advertising campaigns have
in the traditional Brewery Bar employed many amusing images
and the rooftop Gravity Bar. of both animals and people.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11

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FUR THER AFIELD  103


Arthur Guinness
In December 1759, 34-year-old Arthur Guinness signed a 9,000-year
lease at an annual rent of £45 to take over St James’s Gate
Brewery, which had lain vacant for almost ten years.
At the time the brewing industry in Dublin was at a
low ebb – the standard of ale was much criticized and
in rural Ireland beer was virtually unknown, as
whiskey, gin and poteen were the more favoured
drinks. Furthermore, Irish beer was under threat from
imports. Guinness started brewing ale, but was also
Arthur Guinness aware of a black ale called porter, produced in London.
This new beer was so called because of its popularity
with porters at Billingsgate and Covent Garden markets. Guinness
decided to stop making ales and develop his own recipe for porter (the
word “stout” was not used until the 1920s). So successful was the switch
that he made his first export shipment in 1769. Engraving (c.1794) of a
satisfied customer

The liquid has now become a stout. The
Hops 5Guinness is matured and conditioned for
Yeast
up to ten days in tall storage tanks. It is
then pumped into tankers or kegs to be
sold throughout the world.
Stainless
steel kegs
Kettle








Stout
Hopped wort
Centrifuge
Hops, which provide the
3tangy taste in Guinness, are
added to the wort in huge
20-tonne kettles. The ingred ients The hopped wort is cooled and the
are boiled to very high 4yeast is added. The mixture is passed
temperatures for about 90 to a fermenting vessel where some
minutes and then strained. sugars are turned to alcohol. It is left
to ferment for 48 hours and the A draught of
yeast is removed by centrifuge. Guinness beer











The Guinness brewery has relied heavily on water transport since its first
export was shipped to England in 1769. The barges, which up until 1961
made the short trip with their cargo up the Liffey to Dublin Port, were a Bottles on display at the
familiar sight on the river. Once at port, the stout would be loaded on to Guinness Academy Bar
huge tanker ships for worldwide distribution.




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104  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA


the National Print Museum has
an extensive collection which
depicts the history of print in
Ireland. The collection includes
functional printing machinery,
printing blocks, pamphlets,
periodicals and books. Along
with regular exhibitions and
tours, the museum has a variety
of art and crafts workshops on
calligraphy, letterpress printing,
traditional bookbinding, origami
and card making.

7 Casino Marino
Cherrymount Crescent. Tel 833 1618.
£ DART to Clontarf. @ 20A, 20B,
27A, 42, 42C, 123. Open mid-Mar–Oct:
10am–5pm daily. & 8 obligatory
(last tour 45 mins before closing).
A lake at the National Botanic Gardens, Dublin ∑ heritageireland.ie
5 National Botanic (see p105); the gate between the This delightful little villa (see
Gardens two is open to the public. pp44–5), designed by Sir William
Built by local craftsmen using Chambers in the 1760s for Lord
Botanic Ave, Glasnevin, Dublin 9. traditional building materials Charlemont, now sits in its own
Tel 804 0300. @ 4, 13, 19, 19A, 83. and techniques, the new Viking grounds at Marino. Originally
Open Oct–Feb: 9am–4:30pm Mon– House is a faithful replica of a built as a summer house for the
Fri, 10am–4:30pm Sat & Sun; Mar–Sep: typical Dublin house and garden Marino Estate, the villa survives
9am–5pm Mon–Fri, 10am–6pm Sat of one thousand years ago, although the main
& Sun. Closed 25 Dec. - 0 7
8 noon & 2:30pm Sun. similar to buildings excavated in house was pulled
∑ botanicgardens.ie the city centre in the late 1980s. down in 1921. The
Casino is acknow-
Opened in 1795, the National 6 National Print ledged to be one
Botanic Gardens are Ireland’s of the finest
foremost centre of botany and Museum examples of
horticulture. They still possess Garrison Chapel, Beggar’s Bush Neo-Classical
an old-world feel, thanks to the Barracks, Haddington Road, Dublin 4. architecture in
beautiful Palm House and Tel 660 3770. £ DART to Ireland. Some
architect Richard Turner’s Landsdowne or Grand Canal Dock innovative
curvilinear glasshouses. Turner @ 4, 7. Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, features were
was also responsible for the Palm 2–5pm Sat & Sun. Closed Bank used in its
House at Kew Gardens, London, holiday weekends. 8 - = 7 construction, Carved stone lion at
and the glasshouses at Belfast’s limited ∑ nationalprintmuseum.ie including Casino Marino
Botanic Gardens (see p282). chimneys
The 20-ha (49-acre) park Opened in 1996, in the former disguised as urns
contains over 16,000 different chapel of Beggar’s Bush Barracks, and hollow columns that
plant species. Particularly accommodate drains. Outside,
attractive are the colourful four carved stone lions, thought
old-fashioned Victorian carpet to be by English sculptor Joseph
bedding, the rich collections Wilton, stand guard at each of
of cacti and orchids, renow ned the corners.
rose garden, and 30-m (100-ft) The building’s squat,
high redwood tree. com pact exterior conceals
The visitor centre houses a 16 rooms built on three floors
restaurant, a display area with around a central staircase.
exhibits relating to the history The ground floor comprises a
and purpose of the gardens and spacious hall and a saloon,
a lecture hall, which hosts a with beautiful silk hangings,
programme of regular talks and elaborate flooring and a
workshops. The National Botanic cof fered ceiling. On the first
Gardens back onto the huge floor is the ostentatious State
Glasnevin or Prospect Cemetery Printing blocks at National Print Museum Room and servant rooms.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


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FUR THER AFIELD  105


commissioned by King William III 0 Glasnevin
in 1700, just ten years after Cemetery
victory at the Battle of the Boyne,
and was the largest barracks in Finglas Rd. Tel 882 6500. @ 13, 19,
his domain, with accommo­ 19A, 40, 40A from Parnell St.
dation for over 5,000 people. It Open 9am–6pm daily. 8 2:30pm
daily (lasts 90 minutes). Museum:
was in use right up to the 1990s. Tel 882 6550. Open 10am–5pm
After Irish independence the Mon–Fri, 11am–5pm Sat & Sun. &
barracks was named for Michael 0 = 7 ∑ glasnevinmuseum.ie
Collins, the first commander­in­
chief of the Irish Army. The largest cemetery in Ireland,
The large central courtyard, Glasnevin covers more than
measured at one hundred 50 ha (124 acres) and contains
marching paces, is an object over one million graves. Originally
lesson in simplicity. In marked called Prospect Cemetery,
contrast to the grey institutional Glasnevin was founded in 1828
exterior, the museum’s interior after Daniel O’Connell (see p46)
presents the exhibits in an campaigned for a burial ground
A gilded chair on display at the innovative way using the latest in which both Irish Catholics
National Museum of Ireland technology, with interactive and Protestants could bury their
multimedia displays. dead with dignity.
8 Dublin Docklands Furniture, silver, glassware, The main part features high
ceramics and scien tific walls and watchtowers, intended
∑ dublindocklands.ie
instrument collections form to keep out body snatchers in
Over three hundred years the bulk of items on show in the early 19th century. The
ago, most of the Docklands the South Block. In the West St Paul’s area across the road
was underwater, with the Block, however, visitors get an was added when more burial
exception of the small fishing insight into the history, work space was needed. The burial
hamlet of Ringsend. The area and development of the plots of both communities have
was redeveloped during the National Museum. The Out a huge variety of monuments,
1990s and 2000s and is one of of Storage exhibit brings from the austere high stones
the city’s most exciting districts. together a wide array of arti­ used until the 1860s, to the
Theatres, museums, numerous facts from around the world, elaborate Celtic crosses of the
cafés and restaurants, water comple­ mented by banks of nationalist revival from the
sports and a memorial to interactive multimedia com­ 1860s to the 1960s, to the plain
those who died in the Great puters. One of the highlights of marble of the late 20th century.
Famine are all draws to Dublin the museum is the Curator’s Glasnevin is a national
Docklands. The Docklands Choice section where 25 monument and has a museum
span both sides of the Liffey un usual exhibits – such as an detailing its history and the
to the east of the city centre early hurling stick and ball – people who are buried there.
and are joined by the Samuel are displayed with the story of There are also daily walking
Beckett Bridge. their cultural significance. tours offering interesting
The North Block holds a insights into the people
permanent exhibition, Soldiers whose final resting place it is,
9 National Museum and Chiefs, which explores Irish including Daniel O’Connell,
of Ireland – military history through the Michael Collins, Éamon de
Decorative Arts & eyes of the average Irish soldier Valera, Constance Markiewicz
and Brendan Behan.
from 1550 to the late 1990s.
History
Collins Barracks, Benburb St, Dublin 7.
Tel 677 7444. @ 25, 25A, 66, 67, 90.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sat, 2–5pm
Sun. Closed Good Fri & 25 Dec.
8 7 ^ ∑ museum.ie
Close to Phoenix Park and just
across the Liffey from the
Guinness Brewery stands the
wonderful decorative arts and
history annexe of the National
Museum (see pp70–71). Its
setting in the historic Collins
Barracks is an inspired move.
The massive complex was Glasnevin Cemetery, Dublin’s largest cemetery




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106  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA


w Howth
Co Dublin. £ DART. Howth Castle
grounds Open 8am–sunset daily.
∑ howthcastle.ie
The commercial fishing town
of Howth is the northern limit
of Dublin Bay. Howth Head, a
huge rocky mass, has lovely
views of the bay. A footpath
runs around its tip, which is
known as the “Nose”. Nearby is
Baily Lighthouse (1814). Sadly,
this area has suffered from
building development.
To the west of the town is
Howth Castle, which dates back
to Norman times. The National
Transport Museum in the
grounds is worth a visit.
Ireland’s Eye, an islet and bird
sanctuary where puffins nest,
can be reached by a short boat
trip from Howth.
E National Transport Museum
Tel 01 832 0427. Open 2–5pm Sat,
A view of Malahide Castle from the extensive surrounding grounds Sun & public hols. Closed Mon–Fri.
∑ nationaltransportmuseum.org
q Malahide Castle and other figures such as Wolfe
Tone (see p45).
Malahide, Co Dublin. £ and DART A visitor centre in the court­ e Dun Laoghaire
to Malahide. @ 42 from Beresford yard has an interactive exhibition
Place, near Busáras. Tel 816 9538. on the fascinating history of the Co Dublin. £ DART. National
Open 9:30am–5:30pm daily. & - Talbot family. The ornamental Maritime Museum: Tel 280 0969.
8 obligatory. Last tours: 4:30pm Open 11am–5pm daily. &
(3:30pm Nov–Mar). walled gardens, covering about Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann: Tel 280
∑ malahidecastle andgardens.ie 22 acres, are also worth explor­ 0295. Open for music Wed & Sat; Céilí
ing. They were largely created Fri. ∑ comhaltas.ie
Near the seaside dormitory by the last member of the family
town of Malahide stands a huge to live in the castle, Lord Milo Formely a major port for
castle set in 100 ha (250 acres) Talbot, an enthusiastic plant passenger ferries between
of grounds. The castle’s core collector who is also believed to Ireland and Britain, this seaside
dates from the 12th century but have been a Soviet spy. town with its brightly painted
later additions, such as its
rounded towers, have given it a
classic fairy­tale appearance.
The building served as a stately
home for the Talbot family until
1973. They were staunch
supporters of James II: on the
day of the Battle of the Boyne in
1690 (see p248), 14 members of
the family breakfasted here;
none came back for supper.
Guided tours take you round
the castle’s collection of 18th­
century Irish furniture, the
oak­beamed Great Hall and
the impressively carved Oak
Room. Part of the Portrait
Collection, on loan from the
National Gallery (see pp74–5),
can be seen here. It includes
portraits of the Talbot family Baily Lighthouse on the southeastern tip of Howth Head
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp296–7 and pp308–11


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FUR THER AFIELD  107


t Dalkey
Co Dublin. £ DART.
∑ ilovedalkey.com
Dalkey was once known as
the “Town of Seven Castles”, but
only two of these now remain.
They are both on the main street
of this attractive village whose
tight, winding roads and
charming villas give it a
Mediterranean feel.
A little way offshore is
tiny Dalkey Island, a rocky bird
sanctuary with a Martello tower
Yachts anchored in Dun Laoghaire harbour and a medieval Benedictine
church, both now in a poor
villas, parks and palm trees can as the guest of Oliver St John state of repair. In summer
sometimes exude a decidedly Gogarty, poet and model for the island can be reached by
continental feel. Dun Laoghaire the Ulysses character Buck a boat ride from the town’s
(pronounced Dunleary) offers Mulligan. Gogarty rented the Coliemore Harbour.
some magnificent walks tower for a mere £8 per year.
around the harbour and to Inside the squat 12-m (40-ft)
the lighthouse along the east tower’s granite walls is a y Killiney
pier. The villages of Sandycove small museum run by a Co Dublin. £ DART to Dalkey
and Dalkey can be reached via group of local volunteers, or Killiney.
“The Metals” footpath which containing some of Joyce’s
runs alongside the railway line. correspondence, personal South of Dalkey, the coastal
The 1837 Mariners’ Church belongings, such as his guitar, road climbs uphill before
is housed in the National cigar case and walking tumbling down into the village
Maritime Museum. stick, and his death mask. of Killiney. The route offers one
Exhibits include a There are also photo- of the most scenic vistas on
longboat used by graphs and first editions this stretch of the east coast,
French officers of his works, including a with views often compared to
during Wolfe Tone’s deluxe edition (1935) of those across the Bay of Naples.
unsuccessful invasion Ulysses illustrated by Howth Head is clearly visible
at Bantry in 1796 (see Henri Matisse. The to the north, with Bray Head
pp172–3). roof, originally a gun (see p137) and the foothills of
Up the road platform but later used the Wicklow Mountains (see
in Monkstown’s Guitar at as a sunbathing deck pp142–3) to the south. There is
Belgrave Square is the James Joyce Tower by Gogarty, affords another exhilarating view from
Comhaltas Ceoltóirí marvellous views of the top of Killiney Hill Park, off
Éireann, Ireland’s main centre Dublin Bay. Below the tower is Victoria Road – well worth
for traditional music and dance, Forty Foot Pool, tradition ally an tackling the short steep trail for.
which puts on music sessions all-male nude bathing spot, but Down below is the popular
and céilís (dances). now open to all. pebbly beach, Killiney Strand.
r James Joyce
Tower
Sandycove, Co Dublin. Tel 280 9265.
£ DART to Sandycove. @ 59, 7/A.
Open 10am–6pm daily. & =
∑ jamesjoycetower.com
This Martello tower stands on a
rocky promontory above the
village of Sandycove. It is one of
15 defensive towers erected
between Dublin and Bray in
1804 to withstand a threatened
invasion by Napoleon. One
hundred years later James Joyce
(see p94) stayed here for a week Dalkey Castle and Heritage Centre on Castle Street




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108  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

SHOPPING IN DUBLIN

Dublin has two main shopping thorough­ spirit of Dublin shines in the cheer ful
fares, each on either side of the River Liffey. cacophony of its street mar kets, many of
On the north side, the area around Henry which stock a cornucopia of highly original
Street is where swanky depart ment stores Irish crafts and gifts. Dublin is also a haven
and small specialty shops beckon. The south for those searching for bargains and second­
side, especially trendy Grafton Street with its hand deals on everything from books and
upmarket bou tiques and shops, is reputed for CDs to clothes and trinkets. There is
its glamour and style. Yet, despite the wide something for everyone in this lively city,
choice of internationally known brands and and the following pages will tell you
retail chains found through out the city, the where to start looking.

Where to Shop
an array of designer outlets and
Temple Bar is a staple tourist antique jewellery stores.
destination. While the area is
frequented by revellers at night, When to Shop
it’s a treasure trove of funky
craft, design and souvenir Shopping hours are generally
outlets during the day, and from 9am to 6pm, Monday to
several second­hand boutiques Saturday, and from 11am or
offer everything from vintage noon to 6pm on Sundays.
shoes to designer handbags. Many shops stay open until
Bustling Henry Street on the 9pm on Thursdays.
north side of the Liffey is lined
with high­street shops and How to Pay
department stores, as well as the
flagship Primark outlet Penney’s, Major credit cards such as Visa
famous for its cheap fashions. and MasterCard are accepted
Those who prefer a more in almost all outlets. Sales tax
relaxed and upmarket shopping or VAT is usually 23 per cent,
experience should head for which non­EU visitors can Brown Thomas department store
Grafton Street on the city’s south redeem at airports and ports.
side, which is home to the Brown Redemption forms are avail­
Thomas department store and able at points of purchase. on Henry Street. One of Dublin’s
designer outlets. The area to the most popular shops, Avoca on
west of here, especially along Department Stores Suffolk Street, stocks everything
South William Street and Wicklow from women’s and kids’ wear to
Street, is packed with small bou­ The best­known department vintage furniture. It also houses
tiques and homeware stores. stores in Dublin are Arnott’s, one of the best cafés in the city.
The Powerscourt Centre, housed the city’s oldest and largest, Prominent Irish retailer Brown
in a Georgian town house, has and Debenhams, both Thomas is known for its
upmarket wares, with goods
from the world’s top designers.
There are also numerous
Marks & Spencer shops, in ­
cluding branches on Grafton
Street and Mary Street.
Shopping Centres
There are four main shopping
centres in Dublin – three on
the south side and one on the
north. South of the Liffey are
Stephen’s Green Centre and
the Powers court Centre.
Stephen’s Green Centre is one
of the largest enclosed shop­
ping areas, with scores of shops
Grafton Street, a popular shopping destination under its roof. These include




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SHOPPING IN DUBLIN  109


Industry, also on Drury Street,
has an eclectic collection of
vintage, upcycled and new
furniture and homewares.

Food and Wine
Connoisseurs of fine wines and
whiskies have many choices in
Dublin. Mitchell & Son boasts a
large shop in the financial
services centre and an online
delivery facility. The Celtic
The colourful George’s Street Arcade Whiskey Shop stocks a variety
Souvenirs and Gifts of Irish and Scotch whiskies, and
many craft and gift stores, the staff are very knowledgeable.
clothing outlets and several A popular destination for A number of gourmet food
fast-food restaurants. souvenirs in Dublin is at the retailers add culinary character
Set in an enclosed four-storey Guinness Storehouse® (see to the city. Sheridan’s Cheese­
Georgian courtyard, the pp102–103). The interactive mongers specializes in Irish
Powers court Centre is more tours of the storehouse are best farmhouse cheeses but stocks
upmarket and plush. It is rounded off with a visit to the a wide array of other cheeses
home to many fine boutiques, gift shop, where a multitude of and foods too. Butler’s Irish
restaurants and lovely antique Guinness branded souvenirs Chocolate tempts with
shops. Also on the south side of and clothing can be bought. exquisite hand made choco lates.
the city is the Dundrum Centre. Nassau Street has a For those craving freshly caught
On the north side of concentration of fine Irish salmon, Fallon & Byrne
the river is the Jervis tourist gift shops, such on Exchequer Street is a good
Centre, which houses as Heraldic Artists, which bet. They also sell an extensive
many British chain stores assists visitors in tracing range of organic and imported
as well as a number of their ancestry. On the produce, alongside a fine
popular Irish retailers. same street, the Kilkenny selection of wines, cheeses and
Shop stocks uniquely charcuterie. Dublin’s growing
Markets Irish ceramic wares, multi -culturalism has led to
the famous Waterford the proliferation of ethnic
On Dublin’s north side, crystal and many other food stores, many of which
just off Henry Street, handcrafted products. can be found on Parnell Street
the famous and still- Finely crafted Across the road, and Moore Street on the north
evolving Moore Street pottery the gift shop at Trinity side, or around George’s Street
Market hosts a daily fruit College sells university on the south side.
and vegetable bazaar, replete memorabilia and
with very vocal street vendors. mementos of the Book
The area is also a hive of ethnic of Kells, as well as many
shops, where you can source other souvenirs.
anything from Iranian dance Rua, a boutique-style
music CDs to tinned bok choi. shop on the historic
The wonderful Temple Bar Capel Street, has an array
Food Market, where you of unique and interesting
will find hot and cold food, treasures, from hand-
including a wide range of made homewares to
organi cally produced items, jewellery and accessories.
is held every Saturday. A Across the river, Scout,
particularly popular stall sells on Essex Street, has
delicious fresh oysters and wine carefully selected Irish
by the glass – a great stop-off and international
point for the weary shopper. clothing and footwear
Quirky, quaint and unique, labels as well as vintage
George’s Street Arcade is open accessories. The tiny
seven days a week and has Irish Design Shop on
many second-hand shops. It is a Drury Street offers a
good place for records, books, small but charming
Irish memorabilia and bric-a- range of Irish crafts,
brac, as well as funky clothing jewellery, prints and
and accessories. home furnishings. Sheridan’s Cheesemongers’ tempting display




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110  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

Fashion
every thing from obscure Mews specializes in porcelain
Although there are many elec tronica to indie and reggae. and early 20th-century pictures,
eleg ant boutiques in Dublin, the Many indepen dent music stores while Q Antiques in Dun
most fashionable are clustered have closed in recent years, but Laoghaire stocks an interesting
close to Dublin’s “Fifth Avenue” – Tower Records is a popular range of period lighting
the smart Grafton Street area. haunt that is bucking the trend and furniture.
Costume, with its wide range of with live gigs and a newly Those who wish to further
Irish and inter national designer opened café. For the best in explore vintage Irish treasures
labels, is a popular destination hip-hop culture and dance should consult the website and
for women’s haute couture. music, pay a visit to All City local listings for the Antiques
You’ll also find designers such as Records. Claddagh Records Fairs that are held in the city at
Roland Mouret, Temperley and has a fine selection of traditional different times and locations
Jonathan Saunders here. Irish music recordings. throughout the year.
Bargain hunters should head McCullough Piggot and
for the Temple Bar’s Designer Waltons, both on the south side Galleries
Mart on Cow’s Lane (10am–5pm of the city, are top places for
every Sunday), where there are sheet music and tradi tional The abundance of galleries
stalls selling handmade Irish Irish instruments including and artists’ workshops in Dublin
crafts and design. accordions, harmonicas, flutes, make it a favourite destination
For classic menswear, Louis uilleann pipes and bodhráns. of art lovers and collectors.
Copeland is Dublin’s most Many galleries are located on
famous tailor. For traditional Antiques Dawson Street, which runs
clothing, stop at the Kilkenny parallel to Grafton Street.
Shop (see Souvenirs and Gifts) or One of Dublin’s oldest antique On Westland Row, the Oisín
Kevin & Howlin. Both stock retailers, Oman Antique Galleries, Gallery sells the work of some
tweeds, Arans and other typ ical specializes in quality Georgian, of Ireland’s best young artists in
Irish clothing. Victorian and Edwardian furniture. its split-level exhibition space,
Clifford Antiques offers both while the Doorway Gallery on
Books original and reproduction antique South Frederick Street
furniture, as well as decorative specializes in Irish art for larger
Given its rich literary heritage, it fireplaces. Its collection of bronze spaces. Visitors may also visit
is not surprising that there are fountains and figures is Whyte’s Auction Rooms to bid
several specialist and interesting unrivalled in the city. The eclectic on international and Irish art.
bookstores pepper ing Dublin’s collection at Christy Bird includes The catalogues, which are
streets. Dawson Street is the top an array of sal vaged and recycled published online, should be
draw for book lovers, with the furniture and pub fittings. consulted by those seriously
vast Hodges Figgis. Eason on The Powerscourt Centre is interested in Irish painting.
O’Connell Street and Dubray also home to many antique On Sundays, an outdoor art
Books on Grafton Street have dealers. Of these, Delphi is a market is held at Merrion Square
comprehensive collections, while specialist in Victorian and close to the museum quarter.
The Gutter Bookshop in Temple Edwardian period jewellery, and Works of vastly varying quality
Bar is an independent shop, also stocks fragile Belleek are hung from the square’s
which hosts regular events and porcelain. Courtville Antiques perimeter black railing, and in
readings. Tucked away behind a specializes in Art Deco and good weather, the colourful,
narrow little corridor is The antique jewellery, including impromptu exhibition makes
Secret Book and Record Store, diamond engage ment rings, for very enjoyable browsing.
with a charmingly haphazard Victorian brooches and The Temple Bar area is also
selection of bargain second- Edwardian enamel jewellery. For home to many of the city’s
hand books and an eclectic silver antiques, including Irish galleries, including the Temple
range of vinyl and CDs. and English portrait miniatures Bar Gallery and Studios. It is
Antiquarian bookseller, Cathach from the 18th to the 20th cen- one of the more cutting-edge
Books, is Dublin’s specialist tury, visit The Silver Shop. venues, housing the eclectic
provider of old Irish titles. It For antique maps and prints, work of more than 30 Irish
has an impressive stock of first the Grafton Street area is a good artists working in several
editions and rarities. Chapters is hunting ground, with the mediums. Nearby, in the heart
the city’s biggest bookstore, Neptune Gallery nearby. of Dublin’s Left Bank, is the
with an excellent second-hand Located near the historical Graphic Studio Gallery and the
and bargain section. Coombe, Francis Street offers a Gallery of Photography, which
mish-mash of antique stores. Old stocks an impressive collection
Music clocks, second-hand furniture and of glossy art books. Despite its
loads of bric-a-brac line the streets, association with partying and
The most concentrated area inviting visitors into shops that drunken mis conduct, the area is
for record shops is in Temple are almost antiques themselves. still deserv ing of its “cultural
Bar, where small stores stock Outside the city centre, Beaufield quarter” status.




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SHOPPING IN DUBLIN  111


DIRECTORY
Department Irish Design Shop Chapters Clifford Antiques
Stores 41 Drury St. Map D4. Ivy Exchange, 7/8 Parnell St. Map D1.
Tel 01 679 8871. Parnell St. Map D2. Tel 01 872 6062.
Arnott’s ∑ irishdesignshop.com Tel 01 872 3297. ∑ tcliffordantiques.ie
12 Henry St. Map D2. Tel 01 ∑ chapters.ie
805 0400. ∑ arnotts.ie Kilkenny Shop Courtville Antiques
6–10 Nassau St. Map E4. Dubray Books Powerscourt Centre.
Avoca Tel 01 677 7066. 24 Grafton St. Map D4. Map D4. Tel 01 679 4042.
11–13 Suffolk St. Map D2. Tel 01 677 5568. ∑ courtville
Tel 01 677 4215. ∑ kilkennyshop.com ∑ dubraybooks.ie antiques.com
∑ avoca.com Rua Eason
Brown Thomas 55 Capel St. Map C2. 40 Lower O’Connell St. Delphi
Powerscourt Centre.
88–95 Grafton St. Tel 01 874 8051. Map D2. Tel 01 858 3800. Map D4. Tel 01 679 0331.
Map D4. Tel 01 605 6666. Scout ∑ easons.com ∑ delphiantiques.com
∑ brownthomas.com 5 Smock Alley Court, Essex The Gutter Bookshop Neptune Gallery
Debenhams St West. Map C3. Tel 01 677 Cow’s Lane. Map C3. 41 S William St. Map D4.
54–62 Henry St. 8846. ∑ scoutdublin.com Tel 01 679 9206. Tel 01 671 5021.
Map D2. Tel 01 814 7200. ∑ gutterbookshop.com
∑ debenhams.com Food and Wine Oman Antique
Hodges Figgis Galleries
Shopping Centres Butler’s Irish 56–58 Dawson St. 20/21 S William St.
Chocolate Map D4. Tel 01 677 4754. Map D4. Tel 01 616 8991.
Dundrum Centre 24 Wicklow St. Map D4. The Secret Book
Dundrum. Tel 01 299 Tel 01 671 0591. and Record Store Q Antiques
1700. ∑ dundrum.ie ∑ butlerschoco 15a Wicklow St, 76 York Rd, Dun Laoghaire,
lates.com Co Dublin. Map D4.
Jervis Centre Dublin 2. Map D3. Tel 01 280 2895.
125 Upper Abbey St. Celtic Whiskey Shop Tel 01 679 7272.
Map C2. Tel 01 878 1323. 27–28 Dawson St. Map D4. The Silver Shop
∑ jervis.ie Tel 01 675 9744. ∑ celtic Music Powerscourt Centre.
whiskeyshop.com Map D4. Tel 01 679 4147.
Powerscourt Centre All City Records ∑ silvershopdublin.com
59 S William St. Map D4. Fallon & Byrne 4 Crow St, Temple Bar.
Tel 01 679 4144. 11–17 Exchequer St. Map C3. Tel 01 677 2994. Galleries
∑ powerscourt Map D4. Tel 01 472 1010.
centre.com ∑ fallonandbyrne.com Claddagh Records Doorway Gallery
2 Cecilia St, Temple Bar.
Stephen’s Green Mitchell & Son Map D3. Tel 01 677 0262. 24 South Frederick St.
Map E4. Tel 01 764 5895.
Centre Chq Building, IFSC. ∑ claddaghrecords.com ∑ thedoorway
St Stephen’s Green West. Map D2. Tel 01 612 5540. McCullough Piggot gallery.com
Map D4. Tel 01 478 0888. ∑ mitchellandson.com 11 S William St. Map D4.
∑ stephensgreen.com Gallery of
Sheridan’s Tel 01 677 3138. Photography
Markets Cheesemongers ∑ mccullough Meeting House Sq, Temple
11 South Anne St. piggot.com Bar. Map C3. Tel 01 671
George’s Street Arcade Map D4. Tel 01 679 3143. Tower Records 4654. ∑ galleryof
George’s St. Map C4. Tel 01 ∑ sheridanscheese 7 Dawson St. Map D4. photography.ie
283 6077. ∑ georges mongers.com Tel 01 671 3250.
street arcade.ie ∑ towerrecords.ie Graphic Studio
Gallery
Temple Bar Fashion Waltons 8a Cope Street, Temple
Food Market 69 S Great George’s St. Bar. Map D3. Tel 01 679
Meeting House Sq, Temple Costume Map D1. 8021. ∑ graphicstudio
10 Castle Market.
Bar. Map D3. Tel 01 677 Tel 01 475 0661. dublin.com
2255. ∑ templebar.ie Map D4. Tel 01 679 4188. ∑ waltons.ie
∑ costumedublin.ie Oisín Gallery
Souvenirs & Gifts Kevin & Howlin Antiques 44 Westland Row. Map F3.
Tel 087 254 9370.
Guinness Storehouse® 31 Nassau St. Map E4. Antiques Fairs ∑ oisingallery.com
Tel 01 633 4576.
St James’s Gate. Map A3. ∑ kevinandhowlin.com ∑ vintageireland.eu Temple Bar Gallery
Tel 01 408 4800. and Studios
∑ guinness- Louis Copeland Beaufield Mews 5–9 Temple Bar. Map D3.
storehouse.com 39–41 Capel St. Map C2. Woodlands Ave, Tel 01 671 0073.
Stillorgan, Co Dublin.
Heraldic Artists Tel 01 872 1600. Road map D4. ∑ templebar
3 Nassau St. Map A3. Tel 01 ∑ louiscopeland.com Tel 01 288 0375. gallery.com
679 7020. ∑ roots.ie Books ∑ beaufieldmews.com Whyte’s Auction
Industry Christy Bird Rooms
41a/b Drury St. Map D4. Cathach Books 32 S Richmond St. 38 Molesworth St. Map D2.
Tel 01 613 9111. 10 Duke St. Map D4. Tel 01 Tel 01 475 4049. Tel 01 676 2888.
∑ industryandco.com 671 8676. ∑ rarebooks.ie ∑ christybird.com ∑ whytes.ie
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112  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

ENTERTAINMENT IN DUBLIN

Although Dublin is well served by theatres, in grand old pubs to the latest dance tracks in
cinemas, nightclubs and rock venues, what a post-industrial setting. The many pubs and
sets the city apart from other European capitals venues around this area make the city centre
is its pubs. Lively banter, impromptu music south of the Liffey the place to be at night.
sessions and great Guinness are the essential The north side does, however, boast the two
ingredients for an enjoyable night in any of most illustrious theatres, the largest cinemas
the dozens of atmo spheric hostelries here. and the impressive 3Arena, a con verted
One of the most popular entertain ment 19th-century rail ter minal beside the docks.
districts is the rejuvenated Temple Bar area. It is now the venue for all major rock concerts
Along this narrow network of cob bled streets, and stage musicals, as well as a number of
you can find everything from traditional music classical music performances.


The Samuel Beckett Theatre
is renowned for its sparse yet
powerful productions. The
main venue south of the Liffey,
the Gaiety Theatre, stages a
mainstream mix of plays, often
by Irish playwrights. Some of
the best fringe theatre and
modern dance in Dublin can
be seen at the Project Arts
Centre in Temple Bar. Smock
Alley Theatre hosts guest
produc tions by experimental
theatre groups, as well as
student productions. Bewley’s
Café Theatre offers intimate
lunchtime drama. The Olympia
The outside of the Gate Theatre, located on the north side of Dublin Theatre specializes in comedy
Entertainment Listings and popular drama, and
accepts phone bookings by occasion ally stages rock and
Listings for clubs, cinemas, theatre credit card only for many of Irish music concerts. Most
and other entertain ment can be the major shows and events theatres are closed on Sunday.
found in most newspapers, such in and around Dublin, while Every October, the Dublin
as the Irish Times and the Irish Dublin Tourism (Suffolk Street) Theatre Festival takes over
Independent, particularly on sell tickets for most of the top all the city venues with main­
weekends. Hot Press, a national theatres and major rock gigs. stream, fringe and inter­
bimonthly newspaper covering national plays.
both rock and traditional music, Theatre
has comprehensive listings for
Dublin. The Herald is also a sound Ireland’s national theatre,
source of infor mation for the the Abbey (see p92), is the
latest concerts, movies and gigs. city’s most popular venue,
For bar and restaurant reviews, concen trating on major new
try the The Ticket, a free supple­ produc tions as well as revivals
ment that comes with Friday’s of works by Irish playwrights
Irish Times. Look out for Totally such as Brendan Behan, Sean
Dublin, a free listings magazine O’Casey, J M Synge and
found in most pubs and cafés. W B Yeats. The smaller Peacock
Theatre down stairs features
Booking Tickets experi mental works. Also on
the north side, the Gate
Tickets for many events are Theatre (see p94) is noted for its
available on the night, but it is interpretations of well­known
usually safer to book in advance. international plays, and the
All the major venues take Bord Gáis Energy Theatre
credit card payment over the hosts West End musicals, ballet, Record shop and ticket office in Crown
tele phone. Ticketmaster opera and theatre productions. Alley, Temple Bar




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ENTER T AINMENT IN DUBLIN  113


the city. Whelan’s is probably
the most popular live venue.
Since 1989, many famous
names have performed on its
stage. Temple Bar venue, The
Mezz, hosts live reggae, funk
and rock music most nights of
the week. Set on two floors, this
place is always packed with
students and tourists. Get there
early if you want to find a good
seat by the stage.
The Workman’s Club is
another of Dublin’s live music
venues, with several bars and
stages spread across two floors.
Façade of the Hugh Lane Gallery DJs keep the tunes pumping
Cinema late into the night, with indie,
musical tastes, with hillbilly, rock and ska sounds.
The city’s cinemas had a performances covering The upstairs room at the
boost in the 1990s with the opera, jazz, dance, musicals, likeable International Bar plays
success of Dublin-based films Irish folk and popular music host to an acoustic session on
such as My Left Foot (1989). among others. Wednesday nights where
Huge growth in the country’s The Hugh Lane Gallery singer/songwriters come to test
movie pro duction industry (see p95), which boasts an themselves in public. There is
followed, and hits like excep tional collection of also a Sunday afternoon
Intermission (2004), The Guard paintings including works traditional Irish music session
(2011) and Calvary (2014) by Degas, Renoir and Monet, that takes place between 1pm
keep Ireland in the spotlight. has regular and free Sunday and 4pm. The Ha’penny Bridge
The Irish Film Institute lunch time concerts. Other Inn has folk and blues on Friday
showcases mostly foreign and venues include the Irish and Saturday nights.
inde pendent films, along with Museum of Modern Art at Big names play at either the
a programme of lectures. It the Royal Hospital Kilmainham 3Arena or, in summer, at the
boasts two screens, as well (see p101), which houses over local sports stadia. The Olympia,
as a bar and restaurant. The 3,500 artworks by Irish and a Victorian theatre, hosts
Lighthouse Cinema in international artists, such as memorable concerts in
Smithfield has a repertoire of art- the Royal Dublin Society extraordinary surroundings.
house films. The Savoy is Dublin’s (RDS). International opera is Outside Dublin, Slane Castle
oldest operational cinema and is staged in the 3Arena. Opera hosts a big rock event most
popular for film premieres. Ireland performs every April summers (see p249).
The large first-run cinemas and November at the Gaiety Button Factory and The
such as Cineworld are located Theatre. The programme Sugar Club offer jazz, salsa, Latin
on the north side. They usually at the Bord Gáis Energy and blues all year, and The
offer tickets at reduced prices Theatre on the city’s south Academy has live bands and
for afternoon screenings, and side includes opera and DJs over four floors. Country
show late-night films on the ballet productions. music is popular in Ireland, and
weekend. The summer-long plays at several Dublin pubs.
Temple Bar Cultural Events Rock, Jazz, Blues Check entertain ment listings
include open-air screenings, and Country for details.
mainly in Meeting House Square.
Dublin has had a
Classical Music, Opera thriving rock
and Dance scene ever since
local band Thin
The National Concert Hall Lizzy made it big
is served well by its resident in the early
orchestra, the RTÉ National 1970s. U2’s
Symphony Orchestra, which success acted as
gives weekly performances. a further catalyst
There are also impressive for local bands,
visiting international orchestras, and each night
such as the Berlin Philharmonic there’s usually an
Orchestra. The popular venue inter esting gig
caters for a wide range of some where in Live rock band performing at the Sugar Club




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114  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

Traditional Music
and Dance important feature of 19th- At weekends, this bar heaves
century bars. A few remain, with Dublin’s single thirty-
To many Irish people, the notably at the tiny, journalists’ somethings. Situated next door
standard of music in a pub is just haunt of Doheny & Nesbitt and is 37 Dawson St, a fashionable,
as important as the quality of the intimate Kehoe’s. lively bar and eatery that is a hit
Guinness. Central Dublin has a The Brazen Head claims to with the hipsters. Pull up a seat
host of pubs reverberating to the be the city’s oldest pub, dating at the whiskey bar and enjoy a
sound of bodhráns, fiddles and back to 1198. The present pub, snifter of usice beatha.
uilleann pipes. One of the most built in the 1750s, is lined with Grand Central is one of the
famous is O’Donoghue’s, where old photographs and dark very few bars on the city’s main
the legendary Dubliners started wood panelling, and showcases thoroughfare, O’Connell Street.
out in the early 1960s. The traditional music sessions It’s housed in a former bank,
Cobblestone, the Auld Dubliner nightly. Every pub prides itself and many of the original
and The Temple Bar are also on the quality of its Guinness, features have been retained.
renowned venues. Devitts on though most locals acknow- Dakota is a large and lively
Camden Street has lively sessions ledge that Mulligan’s, founded tapas and wine bar that draws
every Thursday, Friday and in 1782, serves the best pint in a trendy young crowd.
Saturday, featuring some of the city. The Bull and Castle Cassidy’s on Westmoreland
Dublin’s best musicians. Johnnie serves a great variety of craft Street is one of the city’s most
Fox’s, in the Dublin mountains beers and is also known for popular hipster hangouts,
about 35 minutes’ drive from the good food. with graffitied walls and
city centre, has live music nightly. The Grave Diggers is a dazzling array of Irish
situated on the northern and international craft
Pubs and Bars outskirts of the city in beers sold on tap and by
Phibsborough. Located the bottle.
Dublin’s pubs are a slice of living next to a graveyard, Dice Bar is a
history. These are the places this bar has more pseudo-dive bar
where some of the best-known character than most, with a dark interior
scenes in Irish literature have and it’s worth the of clashing blacks
been set, where rebellious taxi ride just to see and reds. The
politicians have met, and where what a Dublin bar music policy is a
world-famous music acts have would have looked A Guinness advertisement at a combination of
made their debuts. Today, it’s like hundreds of Dublin pub rare rock ‘n’ roll
the singing, dancing, talk and years ago. On and blues records.
laughter that make a pub tour summer week ends, the green Urban and cosmopolitan,
of Dublin an absolute must. outside fills with drinkers The Globe is as popular
There are nearly 1,000 pubs enjoying pints and chatting. during the day for coffee as it
inside the city limits. Among the Grogan’s bar, on South is at night. The crowd is a
best of the traditional bars are William Street, is frequented by cool mix of musicians and
Neary’s, popular with actors many of Dublin’s bohemian city hipsters. Not unlike the
and featuring a gorgeous marble characters. Part bar, part art Globe, but with a modern
bar, the atmospheric Long Hall, gallery, it exhibits an array of twist, 4 Dame Lane is a slickly
and the friendly and chic Stag’s paintings by local artists. designed bar. At night it fills
Head dating from 1770. Café en Seine is influenced with a young crowd that loves
Cosy snugs, where drinkers by a belle époque Parisian bar. Its the eclectic music. Two flaming
could lock themselves away for interior is huge and cavernous, torches mark the entrance.
private conversation, were an and the decor rich and alluring. Part of the sleek Morgan
Hotel in Temple Bar, the
beautifully designed Morgan
Bar prides itself on serving
outstanding cocktails and has
live Irish music at weekends.
The Market Bar is one of the
city’s favourite gastro-pubs. Set
in an old factory, it has high
ceilings and red-brick walls that
lend it a certain retro-industrial
charm. Superb food is served
throughout the day.
Small, comfy Peter’s Pub
has a reputation for quality
pints and is considered by
many to be the quintessential
French-style interior of the Café en Seine Dublin boozer.




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ENTER T AINMENT IN DUBLIN  115


in town. The large gastro-pub
and club sits on the north side
of the River Liffey and its links
with Irish rugby players and
glamorous models have made
it the place to be seen.
Occupying two Georgian
town houses on nearby Leeson
Street, House caters for a similar
clientele, but in more relaxed
surroundings. Lounge in front
of a log fire in the front parlour,
among the olive and citrus trees
in the garden, or dance the
night away in the opulent Red
Room, which is open late on
Traditional façade of Doheny & Nesbitt Friday and Saturday.
A Literary Pub Crawl Ri-Ra, Irish for uproar, is one
beginning at a pub. Describing of Dublin’s longest running
Pubs with strong literary itself as a “drinking pub with a nightclubs and has a different
associations abound in Dublin, music problem”, Sweeney’s on theme every night, from
particularly around Grafton Dame Street heaves every hip-hop and house to funk,
Street. McDaid’s, an old pub Thursday to Saturday night with soul and reggae.
with an Art Deco interior, still a mass of bodies moving to an Touted as Dublin’s most
retains some of its bohemian air eclectic mix of hip-hop, prestigious night club, Lillie’s
from the time when writers rockabilly, soul, funk and house, Bordello has a luxurious,
such as Patrick Kavanagh and across three floors. Tucked away deca dent atmosphere and
Brendan Behan were regulars. in the basement of the super- Art Deco decor. The legend ary
Davy Byrne’s has a plusher stylish Powerscourt Centre, VIP room has long been a
decor than it did when Leopold Pygmalion is a café-bar by day favourite of Dublin’s rich and
Bloom dropped in for a and a pumping club by night, famous, and regulars often
gorgonzola and mustard particularly popular with the rub shoulders with the enter-
sandwich in Ulysses, but it is still city’s young hipster folk. The tiny tainment elite.
well worth paying a visit. These dance floor heats up when Howl at the Moon is a
pubs, and others frequented by international DJs come to visit. smart club close to Merrion
Ireland’s most famous authors Copper Face Jacks is the Square. It is spread across
and play wrights, are featured most profitable nightclub of its three floors and has outdoor
on the excellent Dublin Literary size in Europe, notorious for its areas, including a heated,
Pub Crawl. The two-and-a-half- sweaty dance floors, pop music covered smoking area. The
hour tours, which are led by and groups of single men and door policy is smart-casual
actors, start with a beer in The women looking for a good time. and over 23. Entry on Thursday
Duke, and are by far the most If the queues are too long you’ll and Friday nights is free and
entertaining way to get a real find several similar venues there are usually special
feel for the city’s booze-fuelled nearby, mostly located along promotions available on
literary heritage. Tours take Harcourt Street. drinks prices.
place daily in summer, but are Formerly Spirit, The Academy At The Grand Social, on the
usually held only at weekends is a vibrant music mecca with north side of the Liffey, in-house
in winter. weekly gigs. It plays music on and guest DJs spin funky disco,
four floors and is attempting to indie, classic rock and electro
Nightclubs rival Whelans as a live music at the weekends. There’s also
centre with a predilection for a popular jazz club every
Dublin’s clubs are continually rock and pop acts as well as Monday night.
revamping and relaunching, a range of DJs from all over The George is Dublin’s
and variety remains the key in the world. premier gay venue, with club
clubland, with plenty of massive Those looking for good nights, karaoke and nightly
superclubs and more intimate, dance music might prefer drinks specials. Don’t miss the
laid-back venues. The scene is Mother, a popular gay club, infamous transvestite bingo
somewhat curtailed, however, which is known for hosting night on Sundays.
by the city’s licensing laws. A the best parties in the city. The Front Lounge has a
nightclub licence allows a club However the club is open more relaxed, gay-friendly vibe,
to remain open until 2:30am – only on Saturday nights. with comfy chairs and great
early by many major cities’ Krystle, on Harcourt Street, food. It is liveliest on Tuesday
standards. So Dublin clubbers running down St Stephen’s nights, when there is karaoke
start their night early, often Green, is the coolest nightclub from 10pm.




114-115_EW_Ireland.indd 115 08/03/17 11:06 am

116  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA


DIRECTORY
Booking Agents Samuel Beckett Hugh Lane Gallery The Sugar Club
Theatre Charlemont House, 8 Lower Leeson St.
Dublin Tourism Parnell Sq North.
Tourism Centre, Trinity College. Map C1. Map E5.
Suffolk St. Map D3 Map E3. Tel 01 222 5550. Tel 01 678 7188.
Tel 01 605 7700. Tel 01 896 1334. ∑ hughlane.ie ∑ thesugarclub.com
∑ visitdublin.ie ∑ tcd.ie National Concert Hall Whelan’s
Ticketmaster Smock Alley Theatre Earlsfort Terrace. 25 Wexford St.
Tel 0818 719300. 6/7 Exchange St Lower, Map D5. Map E4 C5.
∑ ticketmaster.ie Tel 01 417 0000. Tel 01 478 0766.
Temple Bar. ∑ nch.ie
Theatre Map C3. ∑ whelanslive.com
Tel 01 677 0014. Royal Dublin The Workman’s
Abbey Theatre Society (RDS) Club
Abbey St Lower. ∑ smockalley.com Ballsbridge. 10 Wellington Quay,
Map E2. Tel 01 668 0866.
Tel 01 878 7222. Cinema ∑ rds.ie Dublin 2.
∑ abbeytheatre.ie Map C3.
Cineworld Cinemas Royal Hospital Tel 01 670 6692.
Bewley’s Café Theatre Parnell St. Kilmainham ∑ theworkmans
Bewley’s Café, Map C2. Military Lane,
78 Grafton St. Kilmainham, club.com
Map D4. Tel 1520 880 444. Dublin 18. Traditional Music
Tel 01 679 5720. ∑ cineworld.ie Tel 01 612 9900. and Dance
∑ bewleyscafe Irish Film Institute ∑ rhk.ie
theatre.com Auld Dubliner
6 Eustace St, Temple Bar. Rock, Jazz, Blues
Bord Gáis Map C3. and Country Auld Dubliner, 24–25
Energy Theatre Tel 01 679 5744. Temple Bar.
Grand Canal Square, The Academy Map D3.
Docklands. ∑ ifi.ie 57 Abbey St. Tel 01 677 0527.
Tel 01 677 7999. The Lighthouse Map C2. ∑ thesmithgroup.ie
∑ bordgaisenergy Cinema Tel 01 877 9999.
theatre.ie ∑ theacademy Cobblestone
Market Square, Smithfield. dublin.com 77 King St North.
Dublin Theatre Map B2.
Festival Button Factory Map A2.
44 Essex St East. Tel 01 872 8006. Curved St, Temple Bar. Tel 01 872 1799.
Map E4.
Map C3. ∑ lighthousecinema.ie ∑ cobblestonepub.ie
Tel 01 677 8439. Savoy Tel 01 670 9202. Devitts
∑ dublintheatre Upper O’Connell Street. ∑ buttonfactory.ie
festival.com Ha’penny Bridge Inn 78 Camden Street Lower.
Map D1. 42 Wellington Quay. Map C5.
Gaiety Theatre Tel 01 874 8822. Map C3. Tel 01 475 3414.
King St South. Tel 01 677 0616. ∑ devittspub.ie
Map D4. ∑ savoy.ie ∑ hapennybridgeinn.
Tel 0818 719 388. Temple Bar Cultural com Johnnie Fox’s
∑ gaietytheatre.ie Events Glencullen, Co Dublin.
Gate Theatre ∑ templebar.ie International Bar Tel 01 295 5647.
23 Wicklow St.
Cavendish Row, Parnell Sq. Map D3. ∑ jfp.ie
Map D1. Classical Music, Tel 01 677 9250. O’Donoghue’s
Tel 01 874 4045. Opera and Dance ∑ international- 15 Merrion Row.
∑ gatetheatre.ie bar.com Map E5.
Olympia Theatre 3Arena The Mezz Tel 01 660 7194.
Dame St. East Link Bridge, North Eustace St, Temple Bar, ∑ odonoghues.ie
Map C3. Wall Quay. Dublin 2.
Tel 01 679 3323. Map D1. Map C3. The Temple Bar
∑ olympia.ie Tel 01 819 8888. Tel 01 670 7655. 48 Temple Bar,
Project Arts Centre ∑ 3arena.ie ∑ mezz.ie Dublin 2.
39 East Essex St. Slane Castle Map C3.
Map C3. Bord Gáis Slane, Co Meath. Tel 01 672 5287.
Tel 01 881 9613. Energy Theatre Tel 041 982 0643. ∑ thetemplebar
∑ projectartscentre.ie See Theatre section. ∑ slanecastle.ie pub.com




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ENTER T AINMENT IN DUBLIN  117


DIRECTORY
Pubs and Bars Doheny & Nesbitt The Market Bar The George
5 Lower Baggot St. 14a Fade St, Dublin 2. 89 Sth Great George’s St.
4 Dame Lane Map E5. Map D4. Map C4.
4 Dame Lane, Dublin 2. Tel 01 676 2945. Tel 01 613 9094. Tel 01 478 2983.
Map C3. ∑ dohenyand ∑ marketbar.ie ∑ thegeorge.ie
Tel 01 679 0291. nesbitts.ie McDaid’s The Grand Social
∑ 4damelane.ie Dublin Literary 3 Harry St. 35 Lower Liffey St,
Map D4.
37 Dawson St Pub Crawl Tel 01 679 4395. Dublin 1.
37 Dawson St. 9 Duke St. Morgan Bar Map D3.
Map D3. The Morgan Hotel, 10 Tel 01 873 4332.
Map D4. Fleet St, Dublin 2. ∑ thegrand
Tel 01 902 2908. Tel 01 670 5602.
∑ dublinpub Map D3. social.ie
∑ 37dawsonstreet.ie Tel 01 643 7000.
crawl.com ∑ themorgan.com House
Brazen Head 27 Lower Leeson St.
The Duke Mulligan’s
20 Bridge St Lower. 9 Duke St. 8 Poolbeg St. Map E5.
Map A3. Map D4. Map E3. Tel 01 905 9090.
Tel 01 677 9549. Tel 01 679 9553. Tel 01 677 5582. ∑ housedublin.ie
∑ brazenhead.com ∑ theduke ∑ mulligans.ie Howl at the Moon
dublin.com Neary’s 7 Lower Mount St.
The Bull and Castle 1 Chatham St.
5–7 Lord Edward St. The Globe Map D4. Map F4.
11 S Great George’s St, Tel 01 634 5460.
Map C3. Tel 01 677 8596..
Dublin 2. ∑ nearys.ie ∑ howlatthemoon.ie
Tel 01 475 1122.
Map C4.
∑bull-and-castle. Peter’s Pub Krystle
Tel 01 671 1220. 1 Johnson’s Place, Harcourt St, Dublin 2.
fxbuckley.ie
∑ theglobe.ie Dublin 2. Map D5.
Café en Seine Grand Central Map D4. Tel 087 674 5393.
40 Dawson St, Dublin 2. 10–11 O’Connell St, Tel 01 679 3347. ∑ krystlenight
∑ peterspub.ie
Map D4. Dublin 1. Stag’s Head club.com
Tel 01 677 4567. Map D2.
1 Dame Court, off Lillie’s Bordello
∑ cafeenseine.ie Tel 01 872 8658. Dame Lane. Adam Court, off Grafton
∑ louisfitzgerald.com Map D3. St. Map E4–D4.
Cassidy’s Tel 01 679 3687.
The Grave Tel 01 679 9204.
27 Westmoreland St. ∑ louisfitzgerald.com/
Diggers ∑ lilliesbordello.ie
Map D3. Prospect Sq, Glasnevin. stagshead
Tel 670 8604. Mother
Map D1. Nightclubs Copper Alley, Exchange
Dakota Tel 01 830 7978. St, Temple Bar, Dublin 2.
9 S William St, Dublin 2. Grogan’s The Academy Map C3. Tel 01 675 5025.
57 Abbey St, Dublin 1.
Map D4. 15 S William St, Dublin 2. Map C2. ∑ motherclub.ie
Tel 01 672 7696. Map D4. Tel 01 877 9999. Pygmalion
∑ dakotabar.ie Tel 01 677 9320. ∑ theacademydublin. South William St.
∑ groganspub.ie com Map D5. Tel 01 633 4479.
Davy Byrne’s Copper Face Jacks
21 Duke St. Kehoe’s 29–30 Harcourt St. ∑ pyg.ie
Map D4. 9 S Anne St. Map D5. Ri-Ra
Tel 01 677 5217. Map D4. Tel 01 475 8777. South Great George’s St,
Tel 01 677 8312 ∑ copperface Dublin 2. Map E3.
∑ davybyrnes.com
∑louisfitzgerald.com/ jacks.ie Tel 01 671 1220.
Dice Bar kehoes. The Front Lounge ∑ theglobe.ie
79 Queen St, Dublin 7. Long Hall 33–34 Parliament St. Sweeney’s
Map A2. 51 S Great George’s St. Map C3. 32 Dame St. Map E3.
Tel 01 670 4112.
Tel 01 633 3936. Map C4. ∑ thefront Tel 01 635 0056.
∑ dicebar.com Tel 01 475 1590. lounge.ie ∑ sweeneysdublin.ie
116-117_EW_Ireland.indd 117 08/03/17 11:06 am

118  DUBLIN AREA B Y AREA

Dublin’s Best: Entertainment

It’s easy to pack a lot into a night out in Dublin. Most of the
best nightspots are situated close to each other and, in the
Temple Bar area alone, there are plenty of exciting haunts
to try out. The city offers something to suit every taste and
pocket: choose from world-class theatre, excellent concert
venues, designer café-bars and lively or laid-back clubs
hosting nights of traditional, country, jazz or rock music.
Even when there is no specific event that appeals, you
can simply enjoy Dublin’s inexhaustible supply of
great traditional pubs. Gate Theatre
The Gate puts on both foreign
plays and Irish classics such as Sean
O’Casey’s Juno and the Paycock
(see p94).




North of
the Liffey


see inset
map below
Stag’s Head
This gorgeous Victorian pub has a long,
mahogany bar and has retained its original
mirrors and stained glass. Located down an
out-of-the-way alley, this atmospheric pub is 0 metres 500
well worth seeking out (see p117). Southwest
0 yards 500
Dublin

The Temple Ha'penny
Bar Area L i f f e y Bridge
It will take more than Millennium BEDFORD ROW
Bridge
a couple of evenings W E L L I N G T O N Q U A Y R O W A S D I L L’ S
Ha’penny
to explore fully all Bridge Inn
that these narrow T E M P L E B A R
streets have to offer. The Workman’s T E M P L E B A R TEMPLE
Many of Dublin’s Club BAR The Auld
Dubliner
best mid-priced E S S E X S T R E E T E A S T Bar
restaurants are here,
while modern bars sit CECILIA STREET CROWN ALLEY
next to traditional MEETING E U S TA C E S T R E E T CURVED T E M P L E L A N E S O U T H The Temple C O P E S T R E E T
HOUSE
Project
pubs hosting fiddle Arts Centre SQUARE STREET F O W N E S S T R E E T SQUARE A N G L E S E A S T R E E T
sessions. There are SYCAMORE STREET The
also theatres and the Gallery of Mezz C R O W S T R E E T
Irish Film Institute. Olympia Photography
Theatre
Later, clubs play Irish Film
Institute
music rang ing from
country to the latest D A M E S T R E E T
dance sounds.
0 metres 100
Street theatre events take place
0 yards 100 throughout the summer in Temple Bar.
This actor is portraying George Bernard
Shaw in a typical street performance.
118-119_EW_Ireland.indd 118 08/03/17 3:25 pm

ENTER T AINMENT IN DUBLIN  119














Abbey Theatre
Despite recurring financial problems, Ireland’s prestigious
national theatre still manages to stage compelling drama,
such as An Ideal Husband by Oscar Wilde (see p92).

The 3Arena
Built in 1878 as a goods depot for
the Great Southern and Western
Railway Company, the 3Arena
(formerly known as the O2 or Point
Depot) is Ireland’s top music venue. It
offers perfect sightlines and crystal-
clear acoustics that make every
performance here special (see p116).
see inset
map below



Southwest
Dublin

Southeast
Dublin








McDaid’s
Playwright Brendan Behan (see p26)
downed many a pint in this pub, which
dates from 1779. Though firmly on the
tourist trail, McDaid’s retains its bohemian
charm, and bars upstairs and downstairs
provide space for a leisurely drink (see p117).



National Concert Hall
As Ireland’s premier music venue, the
National Concert Hall boasts a thrilling
line up of national and international
musicians in a broad range of events from
traditional to opera, classical to jazz and
weekly concerts by resident RTE National
Symphony Orchestra (see p116).




118-119_EW_Ireland.indd 119 02/05/2017 12:49

120  DUBLIN STREE T FINDER


Street Finder Index

Key to the Street Finder
Major sight Tourist information office Pedestrian street
Place of interest Hospital with casualty unit
Railway station Police station
Bus station Church Scale of Map Pages
0 metres 200
DART station Railway line 1:11,500
0 yards 200
Luas stop
Key to Street Finder Abbreviations
Ave Avenue E East Pde Parade Sth South
Br Bridge La Lane Pl Place Tce Terrace
Cl Close Lr Lower Rd Road Up Upper
Ct Court Nth North St Street/Saint W West
A Bride Street New C5 Cook Street B3 F
Bridge Street Lower A3 Coombe Court A4
Abbey Street Lower D2 Bridge Street Upper A3 Cope Street D3 Fade Street C4
Abbey Street Middle D2 Bridgefoot Street A3 Copper Alley C3 Father Mathew Bridge A3
Abbey Street Old E2 Britain Place D1 Cork Hill C3 Father Mathew Square B2
Abbey Street Upper C2 Brown Street North A2 Cork Street A5 Fenian Street F4
Abbey Theatre D2 Brown Street South A5 Corporation Street E1 Fishamble Street B3
Adair Lane D3 Brunswick Street North A2 Crane Lane C3 Fitzwilliam Lane E5
Adelaide Hospital C4 Buckingham Street Lower F1 Creighton Street F3 Fitzwilliam Square E5
Amiens Street F1 Bull Alley Street B4 Crown Alley D3 Fitzwilliam Square North E5
Anglesea Row C2 Burgh Quay D3 Cuckoo Lane B2 Fitzwilliam Square West E5
Anglesea Street D3 Busáras E2 Cuffe Street C5 Fitzwilliam Street Lower F5
Anne Street North B2 Butt Bridge E2 Cumberland Street North D1 Fitzwilliam Street Upper F5
Anne Street South D4 Byrne’s Lane C2 Cumberland Street South F4 Fleet Street D3
Anne’s Lane D4 Custom House E2 Foley Street E1
Ardee Row A5 C Custom House Quay E2 Foster Place D3
Ardee Street A5 Camden Place C5 D Fountain Place A2
Arran Quay A3 Camden Row C5 Four Courts B3
Arran Street East B2 Camden Street Lower C5 Dame Lane C3 Fownes Street D3
Asdill’s Row D3 Capel Street C2 Dame Street C3 Francis Street B4
Ash Street A4 Carman’s Hall A4 Dawson Lane D4 Frederick Street South E4
Aston Place D3 Castle Market D4 Dawson Street D4 Frenchman’s Lane E2
Aston Quay D3 Dean Street B4 Friary Avenue A2
C3
Aungier Place C5 Castle Steps C3 Dean Swift Square B4 Fumbally Lane B5
Castle Street
Aungier Street C5
Cathal Brugha Street D1 Denzille Lane F4 G
B Cathedral Lane B5 Diamond Park E1
Cathedral Street D2 Digges Street Upper C5 Garden Lane A4
Bachelors Walk D3 Cathedral View Court B5 D’Olier Street D3 Garden of Remembrance C1
Back Lane B4 Chamber Street A5 Dominick Lane C1 Gardiner Street Lower E1
Baggot Court F5 Chancery Lane C4 Dominick Place C1 Gardiner Street Middle D1
Baggot Rath Place E5 Chancery Place B3 Dominick Street Lower C1 Gate Theatre D1
Baggot Street Lower F5 Chancery Street B3 Dominick Street Upper B1 General Post Office D2
Ball’s Lane B2 Chapel Lane C2 Donore Road A5 Geoffrey Keating Road A5
Bank of Ireland D3 Charles Street West B3 Dorset Street Upper C1 George’s Dock F2
Bass Place F4 Chatham Row D4 Dowlings Court F3 George’s Hill B2
Beaver Street F1 Chatham Street D4 Drury Street D4 George’s Lane A2
Bedford Row D3 Christ Church Cathedral B3 Dublin Castle C3 George’s Quay E2
Bella Place F1 Christchurch Place B4 Dublin Civic Museum D4 Gloucester Diamond E1
Bella Street E1 Church Avenue West B2 Dublin Writers Museum C1 Gloucester Place E1
B4
Bell’s Lane E5 Church Lane South C5 Dublinia Gloucester Street South E3
Benburb Street A2 Church Street B3 Duke Lane D4 Glover’s Alley D4
Beresford Lane E2 Church Street New A2 Duke Street D4 Golden Lane C4
D4
Grafton Street
Beresford Place E2 Church Street Upper B2 E
Beresford Street B2 Church Terrace B2 Granby Lane C1
Bewley’s Oriental Café D4 City Hall C3 Earl Place D2 Granby Place C1
Bishop Street C5 City Quay F2 Earl Street North D2 Granby Row C1
A1
Grangegorman Upper
Blackhall Parade A2 Clanbrassil Street Lower B5 Earl Street South A4
Blackhall Place A2 Clare Lane E4 Earlsfort Terrace D5 Grant’s Row F4
Blackhall Street A2 Clare Street E4 Ebenezer Terrace A5 Grattan Bridge C3
A4
Gray Street
Blackpitts B5 Clarence Mangan Road A5 Eden Quay D2 Greek Street B2
Bolton Street C1 Clarendon Row D4 Ellis Quay A3 Green Street B2
Bonham Street A3 Clarendon Street D4 Ely Place E5
Borris Court B3 Clonmel Street D5 Erne Place Lower F3 H
Bow Lane East C4 Coke Lane A3 Erne Street Upper F4
Bow Street A2 Coleraine Street B1 Erne Terrace Front F3 Hagan’s Court F5
Boyne Street F4 College Green D3 Essex Quay C3 Halston Street B2
Brabazon Row A5 College Lane E3 Essex Street East C3 Hammond Lane A3
Brabazon Street A4 College Street D3 Essex Street West C3 Hammond Street A5
Bracken’s Lane E3 Commons Street F2 Eustace Street C3 Hanbury Lane A4
Braithwaite Street A4 Connolly Station F1 Exchange Street Lower C3 Hanover Lane B4
Bride Road B4 Constitution Hill B1 Exchange Street Upper C3 Hanover Street B4
Bride Street C4 Convent Close F5 Exchequer Street D3 Hanover Street East F3
120-121_EW_Ireland.indd 120 08/03/17 11:06 am

DUBLIN STREE T FINDER  121


Ha’penny Bridge D3 Luke Street E3 P Shelbourne Hotel E4
Harbour Court D2 Lurgan Street B2 Palmerston Place B1 Sheriff Street Lower F1
Harcourt Street D5 Parliament Street C3 Ship Street Great C4
Hawkins Street E3 M Parnell Place D1 Ship Street Little C4
Haymarket A2 Mabbot Lane E1 Parnell Square East D1 Smithfield A2
Hendrick Lane A2 Madden Road A5 Parnell Square West C1 South Great George’s
Hendrick Street A2 Magennis Place F3 Parnell Street C2 Street C4
Henrietta Lane B1 Malpas Street B5 Patrick Street B4 Spring Garden Lane E3
Henrietta Place B2 Mansion House D4 Pearse Station F3 Stable Lane A3
Henrietta Street B1 Mark Street E3 Pearse Street E3 Stanhope Street A1
Henry Place D2 Mark’s Alley West B4 Pembroke Lane E5 Stephen Street Lower C4
Henry Street D2 Mark’s Lane F3 Pembroke Row F5 Stephen Street Upper C4
Herbert Lane F5 Marlborough Street D1 Pembroke Street Lower E5 Stephen’s Lane F5
Herbert Street F5 Marshall Lane A3 Peter Row C4 Stephen’s Place F5
Heytesbury Street C5 Marsh’s Library B4 Peter Street C4 Stirrup Lane B2
High Street B3 Mary Street C2 Peterson’s Court F3 Stokes Place D5
Hill Street D1 Mary Street Little B2 Phibsborough Road B1 Stoneybatter A2
Hogan Place F4 Mary’s Lane B2 Phoenix Street North A3 Store Street E2
Holles Place F4 Matt Talbot Memorial Pimlico A4 Strand Street Great C3
Holles Row F4 Bridge E2 Pleasants Street C5 Strand Street Little C3
Holles Street F4 May Lane A2 Poolbeg Street E3 Strong’s Court D1
Hugh Lane Gallery of Mayor Street Lower F2 Poole Street A4 Suffolk Street D3
Modern Art C1 Meade’s Terrace F4 Powerscourt Centre D4 Summerhill E1
Hume Street E5 Meath Hospital B5 Prebend Street B1 Susan Terrace A5
A4
Swift’s Alley
Meath Place A4
I Meath Street A4 Preston Street F1 Swift’s Row C3
Sycamore Street
D3
Price’s Lane
C3
Meetinghouse Lane C2
Inner Dock F2 Mellowes Bridge A3 Prince’s Street North D2
Inns Quay B3 Memorial Road E2 Prince’s Street South F3 T
Irish Whiskey Corner A2 Mercer Street Upper C5 Tailors’ Hall B4
Island Street A3 Merchant’s Quay B3 Q Talbot Place E2
Iveagh Gardens D5 Merrion Row E5 Queen Street A2 Talbot Street D2
J Merrion Square F4 Quinn’s Lane E5 Tara Street E3
E3
Tara Street Station
F5
Merrion Square East
James Joyce Centre D1 Merrion Square North F4 R Temple Bar C3
B1
Temple Cottages
James’s Place F5 Merrion Square South E4 Railway Street E1 Temple Lane North D1
James’s Place East F5 Merrion Square West E4 Rath Row E3 Temple Lane South C3
Jervis Lane Lower C2 Merrion Street Lower F4 The Coombe A4
Jervis Lane Upper C2 Merrion Street Upper E5 Redmond’s Hill C5 Thomas Court A4
A4
A5
Reginald Street
Michael’s Terrace
Jervis Street C2 Mill Street A5 River Liffey A3 Thomas Court Lane A4
John Street North A3 Millennium Bridge C3 Ross Road B4 Thomas Davis Street South B4
John Street South A5 Thomas Street West A4
D4
John Dillon Street B4 Molesworth Place D4 Rotunda Hospital D1 Thomas’s Lane D1
E5
Molesworth Street
Royal Hibernian Academy
John’s Lane East B3 Montague Place C5 Rutland Place D1 Townsend Street E3
John’s Lane West A4 Montague Street C5 Rutland Street Lower E1 Trinity College E3
Johnson Court D4 Trinity Street D3
Moore Lane D1 Ryder’s Row C2
K Moore Street D2 S U
A1
Morning Star Avenue
Kevin Street Lower C5 Moss Street E2 Sackville Place D2 Usher Street A3
Kevin Street Upper B5 Mount Street Lower F4 D3 Usher’s Island A3
Kildare Street E4 Mount Street Upper F5 St Andrew’s Street D4 Usher’s Quay A3
St Ann’s Church
Killarney Street F1 Mountjoy Street C1 St Audoen’s Church B3
King Street North A2 Mountjoy Street Middle B1 St Augustine Street A3 V
King Street South D4 N Vicar Street A4
A4
King’s Inns B1 St Cathedral Lane East B5
St Kevin’s Avenue
King’s Inns Park B1 Nassau Street D3 St Mary’s Abbey C2 W
King’s Inns Street C1 National Gallery E4 St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral D1
Kirwan Street A1 Natural History Museum E4 St Mary’s Terrace C1 Wards Hill B5
A4
L National Library E4 St Michael’s Close B3 Watkins Buildings A5
Weaver’s Square
National Museum
E4
New Row South B5 St Michael’s Hill B3 Weaver’s Street A4
Lad Lane F5 St Michan’s Church A2 Wellington Quay C3
Lamb Alley B4 New Street North B2 St Michan’s Street B2 Werburgh Street C4
Leeson Lane E5 New Street South B5 St Paul Street A2 Western Way B1
Leeson Street Lower E5 Newman House D5 St Patrick’s Cathedral B4 Westland Row F4
A5
Newmarket
Leinster House E4 Nicholas Street B4 St Patrick’s Close B4 Westmoreland Street D3
Leinster Street South E4 St Patrick’s Park B4 Wexford Street C5
Lemon Street D4 North Great George’s Street D1 St Stephen’s Green D5 Whitefriar Place C4
Liberty Lane C5 North Wall Quay F2 St Stephen’s Green East E5 Whitefriar Street C4
Liberty Park E1 O St Stephen’s Green North D4 Whitefriar Street Carmelite
Liffey Street Lower D2 St Stephen’s Green South D5 Church C4
Liffey Street Upper C2 O’Carolan Road A5 St Stephen’s Green West D5 Wicklow Street D3
Lincoln Place E4 O’Connell Bridge D2 St Thomas Road A5 William Street South D4
Linenhall Parade B1 O’Connell Street Lower D2 St Werburgh’s Church B4 William’s Place South B5
Linenhall Street B2 O’Connell Street Upper D1 Sampson’s Lane D2 William’s Row D2
Linenhall Terrace B1 O’Curry Avenue A5 Sandwith Street Upper F4 Windmill Lane F3
Windsor Place
E5
Lisburn Street B2 O’Curry Road A5 Sandwith Street Lower F3 Winetavern Street B3
Little Britain Street B2 O’Donovan Rossa Bridge B3 Schoolhouse Lane E4 Wolfe Tone Park C2
Little Green Street B2 Oliver Bond Street A3 Schoolhouse Lane West B3 Wolfe Tone Street C2
Litton Lane D2 O’Rahilly Parade D2 Sean MacDermott Street Wood Quay B3
Loftus Lane C2 Oriel Street Upper F1 Lower E1 Wood Street C4
Lombard Street East F3 Ormond Quay Lower C3 Sean MacDermott Street
Long Lane B5 Ormond Quay Upper B3 Upper D1 Y
Longford Street Great C4 Ormond Square B3 Setanta Place E4
Longford Street Little C4 Ormond Street A5 Seville Place F1 York Street C4
Lord Edward Street C3 Oscar Square A5 Seville Terrace F1
Lotts D2 Oxmantown Lane A2 Shaw Street E3
120-121_EW_Ireland.indd 121 08/03/17 11:06 am

Dublin Writers' RUTLAND ST LR BELLA
R WESTERN W A Y Museum SUMMER HILL STREET BELLA TERRACE
SEVILLE
E PALMERSTON DORSET HILL STREET TEMPLE GARDINER PLACE KILLARNEY
P PL MOUNTJOY National Wax ST UPPER Hugh Lane N O R T H G R E AT LANE NTH ST MIDDLE GLOUCESTER PLACE STREET T
P PHIBSBOROUGH ST MIDDLE Municipal G E O R G E ’ S S T R E E T E SEVILLE PL
U RO AD MOUNTJOY ST Modern Art R U T L A N D P L A C E James Joyce E
Gallery of
S T R E E T
T
TCE
N TEMPLE COTTAGES ST. MARY’S Museum GRANBY ROW GARDEN OF Cultural Centre G A DIAMOND GLOUCESTER PL SEAN MAC DERMOTT STREET LOWER BUCKINGHAM T R
E
A E REMEMBRANCE PARNELL SQUARE EAST PARNELL PL L L R PARK ST LOWER S
M R RUTLAND D GLOUCESTER R A I L W A Y S T R E E T PRESTON ST
R T GRANBY LANE Gate PLACE BRITAIN ST NORTH I DIAMOND
O KING'S King's HENRIETTA S Theatre PL N DIAMOND BEAVER ST
D O M I N I C K S T R E E T U P P E R
G INNS Inns PARNELL SQUARE WEST P A R N E PAR K
CUMBERLAND
STREET UPPER
E CONSTITUTION HILL COURT R
KIRWAN STREET G PREBEND STREET P ARK LANE N SEAN MACDERMOTT E
STRONG’S
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A T GRANBY PL Hospital CATHAL T F O L E Y S T R E E T N Connolly
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STREET MORNING STAR AVE LINENHALL PDE H E N R I E T TA P L A C E I N N S O’CONNELL ST UPPER St Mary's Pro- Tyrone T A L B O T S T A
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STREET
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S
General

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CHURCH
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Abbey
MATHEW
St Mary's
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Theatre
SQUARE
BLACKHALL
Church
ROW
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STREET
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FATHER R E E T
S T
M A R Y ’ S L A N E
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Street
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O R M O N D Q U AY U P P E R Grattan Millennium ROW A S T O N Q U A Y WESTMORELAND ST T O W N S E N D S T R E E T
Bridge
ROW
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I N N S Q U A Y Bridge W E L L I N G T O N Q U AY
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Christ
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LANE
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COWS
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ST
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SQ
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CLARE LA
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STREET
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S O U T H
G R E AT
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Ireland

PLACE
LANE LOWER CHATHAM CHATHAM ST T O N ANNE ST SOUTH National Gallery of D E N Z I L L E L A N E
GARD EN LANE S B R I D E S LONGFORD LANE St Ann's MOLESWORTH RTH STREET Library HOLLES HOLLES STREET
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HALL T
CARMAN’S R E HANOVER LN ST PATRICK'S G O L D E N WHITEF RIAR ST Church LONGFORD ROW G R AF Mansion Leinster MERRION SQUARE NORTH HOLLES ROW
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ASH STREET
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MERRION ST UP
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Buildings
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THE LIBER TIES S O U T H ST PATRICK’S CLOSE Library P E T E R R O W AUNGIER PL Royal College ST STEPHEN’S GREEN WEST Green STEPHEN’S PLACE
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN NORTH
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RATH PLACE
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SQUARE
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ST SOUTH
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House
S T R E E T
CLANBRASSIL ST LR
J A M E S ’ S P L A C E
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN SOUTH
LEESON LANE
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L O N G
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C A M D E N R O W CAMDEN ST LR
122-123_EW_Ireland.indd 122 25/04/16 11:01 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetfinder holder template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

Dublin Writers' RUTLAND ST LR BELLA
R WESTERN W A Y Museum SUMMER HILL STREET BELLA TERRACE
SEVILLE
E PALMERSTON DORSET HILL STREET TEMPLE GARDINER PLACE KILLARNEY
P PL MOUNTJOY National Wax ST UPPER Hugh Lane N O R T H G R E AT LANE NTH ST MIDDLE GLOUCESTER PLACE STREET T
P PHIBSBOROUGH ST MIDDLE Municipal G E O R G E ’ S S T R E E T E SEVILLE PL
Gallery of
U RO AD MOUNTJOY ST Modern Art R U T L A N D P L A C E James Joyce E
S T R E E T
T
TCE
N TEMPLE COTTAGES ST. MARY’S Museum GRANBY ROW GARDEN OF Cultural Centre G A DIAMOND GLOUCESTER PL SEAN MAC DERMOTT STREET LOWER BUCKINGHAM T R
E
A E REMEMBRANCE PARNELL SQUARE EAST PARNELL PL L L R PARK ST LOWER S
M R RUTLAND D GLOUCESTER R A I L W A Y S T R E E T PRESTON ST
R T GRANBY LANE Gate PLACE BRITAIN ST NORTH I DIAMOND
O KING'S King's HENRIETTA S Theatre PL N DIAMOND BEAVER ST
D O M I N I C K S T R E E T U P P E R
G INNS Inns PARNELL SQUARE WEST P A R N E PAR K
CUMBERLAND
E CONSTITUTION HILL COURT R
STREET UPPER
KIRWAN STREET G PREBEND STREET P ARK LANE N SEAN MACDERMOTT E
STRONG’S
N HENRIETTA STREET O D O M I N I C K P L A C E Rotunda S S
A T GRANBY PL Hospital CATHAL T F O L E Y S T R E E T N Connolly
R L D O M I N I C K S T R E E T L O W E R BRUGHA ST R LIBERTY E
PARK
G O K I N G ' S E E M A B B O T L A N E I SHERIFF ST LOWER
STANHOPE LINENHALL TCE B D O M I N I C K L A N E M O O R E LANE THOMAS'S T M Connolly ORIEL ST UP
STREET MORNING STAR AVE LINENHALL PDE H E N R I E T TA P L A C E I N N S O’CONNELL ST UPPER St Mary's Pro- Tyrone T A L B O T S T A
Cathedral
CORPORATION STREET
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STREET
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H E N R Y S T R E E T
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GEORGE’S
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General

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CHURCH
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T
J E R V I S
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Street
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Abbey
MATHEW
St Mary's
AVENUE
SQUARE
Theatre
BLACKHALL
Church
ROW
STREET
E D E N Q U A Y
ANGLESEA
FATHER R E E T
S T
M A R Y ’ S L A N E
Distillery
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Rosie
TONE
M AY L A N E
PARK
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S T R A N D S T R E E T G R E AT
STREET
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LANE
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Bridge
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L i f f e y
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COPPER ALLEY
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ST UP
LANE
COWS
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Church
LORD EDWARD
City
St Audoen's
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ST
B R I D O L I V E R JOHN’S HIGH STREET BORRIS’S CL MICHAEL’S HILL CA STLE STRE E T Dublin ST ANDREW’ S SUFFOLK STREET W E S T L A N D R O W ERNE TCE FRONT
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Hall
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STEPS
CASTLE
Townhouse
B A C K L A N E
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CASTLE
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STREET
H A N B U R Y L A N E V I C A R S T R E E T A N C A L L E Y J DILLON WERBURGH ST SHIP ST Chester Beatty FADE ST MARKET CLARENDON ST Church DA WSON LANE Heraldic LINCOLN PLACE F E N I A N B A S S P L A C E E E T SANDWITH ST UPPER ERN
D A W S O N S T R E E T
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SCHOOLHOUSE LA I L D A R E S T R E E T
DUKE STREET
TH OMAS COU RT LANE E A R L S T R E E T M E AT H SWIFT'S ALLEY I S DAVIS ST STH OLAS STREET R O S S R O A D S H I P S T R E E T STEPHEN ST WILLIAM ST SOUTH STREET D U K E MOLESWO FREDERICK ST SOUTH S T R E E T LEINSTER ST STH CLARE
JOHNSON CT
SQ
Museum
LEMON
THOMAS
CLARE LA
SETANTA PLACE
National
B R I D E R O A D
S O U T H
G R E AT
HOGAN


Ireland
LANE LOWER CHATHAM CHATHAM ST T O N ANNE ST SOUTH National Gallery of D E N Z I L L E L A N E
PLACE
GARD EN LANE S B R I D E S LONGFORD LANE St Ann's MOLESWORTH RTH STREET Library HOLLES HOLLES STREET
ROW
Church
CHANCERY
L A N E ST GREAT ST LITTLE G G E S L A N E CLARENDON ANNE’S MERRION SQ W
HALL T
CARMAN’S R E HANOVER LN ST PATRICK'S G O L D E N WHITEF RIAR ST Church LONGFORD ROW G R AF Mansion Leinster MERRION SQUARE NORTH HOLLES ROW
Whitefriar
DEAN SWIFT JOHN DILLON STREET
House
Street
M E A T H P L A C E S T R E E T
D I
PLACE
K
PARK
GRAY STREET STREET HANOVER MARK’S E T BULL ALLEY STREET T R E E T WOOD ST Carmelite STREET BOW LANE EAST K I N G S T R E E T House National Museum: Natural MERRION
P I M L
History
GRANT’S
St Patrick's
ALLEY W
S O U T H
ROW
ASH STREET
BRAITHWAITE ST I C O STREET BRABAZON T H E PATRICK ST Cathedral Adelaide WHITEFRIAR GLOVER'S Archaeology Museum SQUAR E MOUNT ST LR
MERRION ST UP
REGINALD STREET
Hospital
JOHN STREET SOUTH WEAVERS S TREET C O O M B E DEAN ST Marsh's P E T E R S T R E E T PLACE AUNGIER Y O R K UPPER ALLEY St Stephen's Shelbourne Government MERRION SQUARE SOUTH MERRION SQ E
Buildings
Hotel
POOLE ST
THE LIBER TIES S O U T H ST PATRICK’S CLOSE Library P E T E R R O W AUNGIER PL S T R E E T ST STEPHEN’S GREEN WEST Green STEPHEN’S PLACE
ST STEPHEN’S GREEN NORTH
Royal College
C O R K S T R E E T ROW BRABAZON KEVI N STREET UPPER B I S H O P S T R E E T DIGGES STREET of Surgeons ST STEPHEN’S MERRION ROW F I T Z W I L L I A M L A N E MOUNT STEPHEN’S
BAGGOT
RATH PLACE
LA
ST UP
BELL'S LA L Y P L A C E
N EWMARKET R O W HILL REDMOND'S MERCER HUME STREET
CHAMBER WARDS HILL N E W NEW STREET SOUTH CATHEDRAL LA KEVIN S TREET LOWER CUFFE ST GREEN ST STEPHEN’S GREEN EAST FITZWILLIAM ST LR
A R D E E S T R E E T
STREET
ST
OSCAR M I L L S T R E E T F U M B A L LY L A N E CATHEDRAL VIEW CT BRID E STREET LANE S CHURCH HARCOURT ST STOKES PL Newman E PEMBROKE STREET LR BAGGOT JAMES’S STREET EAST STREET UPPER
MONTAGUE
BAGGOT CT
SQUARE
BROWN
PLACE
ORMOND WEAVER’S
ST SOUTH O’CURRY AVE SQUARE S T C L A R E N C E B L A C K P I T T S MALPAS STREET NEW LIBERTY LANE ST WEXFORD MONTAGUE ST ST STEPHEN’S GREEN SOUTH Royal Hibernian WINDSOR PEMBROKE LANE J A M E S ’ S P L A C E S T R E E T
Academy
House
PLACE
LEESON LANE
Iveagh
L A D L A N E
L A N E
EBENEZER TERRACE SUSAN TERRACE KEATING ROAD S R O A D M A N G A N R O A D HAMMOND ST ST KEVIN’S CLANBRASSIL ST LR WILLIAM’S PL STH Hospital HEYTESBURY ST PLEASANTS STREET CAMDEN CLONMEL ST GARDENS House EARLSFORT TCE LEESON ST LR L A N E FITZ
L O N G
IVEAGH
H E R B E R T
GEOFFREY
ROAD
O’CURRY
FITZWILLIAM
O’CAROLAN RD T H O M A
AVE
SQUARE NTH
MICHAEL’S TCE
PLACE
FITZWILLIAM
Meath
HAGAN’S CT
Q U I N N ’ S
PEMBROKE
ROW
DONORE RD
C A M D E N R O W CAMDEN ST LR
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Date 6th September 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

IRELAND

REGION BY


REGION





Ireland at a Glance 126–127

Southeast Ireland 128–155
Cork and Kerry 156–183
The Lower Shannon 184–203
The West of Ireland 204–223
Northwest Ireland 224–239

The Midlands 240–257
Northern Ireland 258–289








































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126  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

Ireland at a Glance

The lure of Ireland’s much-vaunted Atlantic shores, from
the wild coastline of Cork and Kerry to the remote
peninsulas of the Northwest, is strong. However, to neglect
the interior would be to miss out on Ireland’s equally
characteristic landscapes of lush valleys, dark peatlands
and unruffled loughs. Most regions are rich in historic
sights: from world-famous Neolithic sites in the Midlands NORTHWEST
IRELAND
to imposing Norman castles in the North and Palladian (See pp224–39) Coleraine
mansions in the Southeast. Londonderry
Yeats Country is a (Derry) Larne
charming part of County
Connemara National Sligo closely associated
Park in County Galway with WB Yeats. The poet Donegal NORTHERN Antrim
boasts stunning was born here and is buried IRELAND
landscapes in which within sight of Ben Bulben’s (See pp258–89) Neagh Belfast
Lough
mountains and lakes ridge (see pp236–7).
are combined with a
dramatic Atlantic Enniskillen Armagh
coastline. The extensive Sligo
blanket bogs and Newry
moorland are rich in Ballina Lough
wildlife and unusual Allen Dundalk
plants (see p212). Cavan
Boyle
Westport
THE WEST THE MIDLANDS Drogheda
Lough OF IRELAND (See pp240–57)
Mask (See pp204–23)
Mullingar DUBLIN
Lough (See pp56–123)
Corrib Athlone
Dublin
Galway Dun Laoghaire
Kildare
Bunratty Castle Portlaoise
(see pp196–7) Wicklow
THE LOWER Roscrea
SHANNON Carlow
(See pp184–203)
The Rock of Cashel, a forti fied Shannon Kilkenny
medieval abbey, perches on a Limerick SOUTHEAST
limestone outcrop in the heart of 0 kilometres 50 IRELAND
County Tipperary. It boasts some 0 miles 25 (See pp128–55)
of Ireland’s finest Romanesque Tipperary
sculpture (see pp200–201).
Tralee Wexford
Waterford
Mallow
Killarney
Cork
CORK AND KERRY
(See pp156–83)

Bantry House
(see pp172–3)
The Lakes of Killarney, flanked by the lush, wooden
slopes of some of the country’s highest mountains,
are the principal attraction in the southwest of Ireland
(see pp166–7).
Quaint waterfront Irish cottage at sunset



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IRELAND A T A GLANCE  127


The Giant’s Causeway, where ancient lava flows
have been eroded to reveal columns of unnatural
regularity, is Northern Ireland’s most curious
sight. According to local mythology, the rocks
were placed here by a giant called Finn
MacCool to enable him to walk across the
sea to Scotland (see pp266–7).

NORTHWEST
IRELAND
(See pp224–39) Coleraine
Londonderry
(Derry) Larne

NORTHERN Antrim
Donegal
IRELAND
(See pp258–89) Lough
Neagh Belfast
Armagh
Enniskillen
Sligo
Newry
Ballina
Lough
Allen Dundalk
Cavan
Boyle
Westport
THE WEST THE MIDLANDS Drogheda Mount Stewart House, a 19th-century
Lough OF IRELAND (See pp240–57) Newgrange mansion, is most renowned for its magnificent
Mask (See pp204–23) (see pp250–51) gardens. These were created as recently as the
Mullingar DUBLIN 1920s, and a colourful array of exotic plants
Lough (See pp56–123)
Corrib Athlone has since thrived in the warm microclimate of
Dublin this part of County Down (see pp286–7).
Galway Dun Laoghaire
Kildare
Powerscourt is a large
Portlaoise
Wicklow estate in superb
THE LOWER Roscrea countryside on the edge of
the Wicklow Mountains. Its
SHANNON Carlow
(See pp184–203) grounds rank among the
Shannon Kilkenny last great formal gardens of
Limerick SOUTHEAST Europe. Originally planted
IRELAND in the 1730s, they were
(See pp128–55) restored and embellished
Tipperary in the 19th century
(see pp138–9).
Tralee Wexford
Waterford
Mallow
Killarney
Cork
CORK AND KERRY
(See pp156–83)
Kilkenny Castle was for centuries the strong-
hold of the Butler dynasty, which controlled
much of southeast Ireland in the Middle Ages.
The vast Norman fortress was remodelled
during the Victorian period and still dominates
Kilkenny – one of the country’s most historic
and pleasant towns (see pp146–8).




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IRELAND REGION B Y REGION  129

SOUTHEAST

IRELAND



Kildare • Wicklow • Carlow • Kilkenny • Waterford • Wexford
Blessed with the warmest climate in Ireland, the Southeast has
always presented an attractive prospect for settlers. Landscapes
of gently rolling hills have been tamed by centuries of culti vation,
with lush farmland, imposing medieval castles and great houses
enhancing the region’s atmosphere of prosperity.
The Southeast’s proximity to Britain meant island. From the 18th century, wealthy
that it was often the first port of call for Anglo-Irish families were drawn to what
foreign invaders. Viking raiders arrived they saw as a stable zone, and felt confident
here in the 9th century and founded enough to build fine mansions like the
some of Ireland’s earliest towns, including Palladian master pieces of Russ borough
Water ford and Wexford. They were and Castletown. English rule was not
followed in 1169 by the Anglo-Normans universally accepted, however. The Wicklow
(see pp40–41), who shaped the region’s Mountains became a popular refuge for
subsequent development. opponents to the Crown, including the
Given its strategic importance, the South- rebels who fled the town of Enniscorthy
east was heavily protected, mostly by Anglo- after a bloody battle during the uprising
Norman lords loyal to the English Crown. against the English in 1798 (see p45).
Remains of impressive castles attest to the This mountainous region is still the only
power of the Fitzgeralds of Kildare and the real wilderness in the Southeast, in contrast
Butlers of Kilkenny, who between them to the flat grasslands that spread across Kil-
virtually controlled the Southeast through- dare to the west. To the east, sandy beaches
out the Middle Ages. English influence was stretch almost unbroken along the shore
stronger here than in any other part of the between Dublin and Rosslare in Wexford.

























Traditional thatched cottages in Dunmore East, County Waterford
The 12th-century Norman Kilkenny Castle, County Kilkenny



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130  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Southeast Ireland

The southeast has something for everyone, from busy seaside resorts to
quaint canalside villages, Norman abbeys and bird sanctuaries. The Wicklow Athlone
Mountains, the location of several major sights such as the monastic Enfield Kilcock
complex of Glendalough and the magnificent gardens of Powerscourt,
provide perfect touring and walking territory. Further south, the most scenic Carbury CASTLETOWN
HOUSE
routes cut through the valleys of the Slaney, Barrow and Nore rivers, flanked BOG OF ALLEN Dublin
by historic ports such as New Ross, from where you can explore local NATURE CENTRE Clane Dalkey
waterways by boat. Along the south coast, which is more varied than the ROBERTSTOWN Killiney
Killiney Bay
region’s eastern shore, beaches are interspersed with rocky headlands, and Grand Canal Naas POWERSCOURT BRAY
quiet coastal villages provide good alternative bases to the busy towns of Newbridge RUSSBOROUGH
Waterford and Wexford. Further inland, the best places to stay include MONASTEREVIN KILDARE Liffey HOUSE MILITARY KILLRUDDERY
HOUSE
Lismore and Kilkenny, which is one of the finest historic towns in Ireland. ROAD
KILDARE Mullaghcleevaun
848m
Portlaoise Hollywood Roundwood Newcastle
Fontstown MOUNT USHER
Athy Ballitore WICKL OW MOUNTAINS GLENDALOUGH GARDENS
Lugnaquillia Mt. Wicklow
926m
Ballylynan Baltinglass Rathdrum
HOUSE
Castledermot WICKLOW AVONDALE
Portlaoise Barrow Rathvilly Aughrim
Durrow Newtown Carlow Woodenbridge
Rathdowney BROWNSHILL DOLMEN
Castlecomer Tinahely Ferrybank
Ballyragget Tullow Arklow
CARLOW Shillelagh
Freshford
Dunmore Leighlinbridge Ballon
Urlingford Cave Carnew Gorey
Bagenalstown Slaney
Cashel Bunclody Courtown
Graiguenamanagh, on the Barrow north of New Ross KILKENNY Gowran Mount Leinster
Mountains
793m
KILKENNY Borris Blackstairs Ferns Ballycanew
Bennettsbridge Kiltealy
Sights at a Glance JERPOINT Thomastown Graiguenamanagh Kilnamanagh
1 Castletown House pp132–3 j Johnstown Castle ABBEY ENNISCORTHY Castleellis
2 Robertstown k Saltee Islands Knocktopher Inistioge WEXFORD Blackwater
3 Bog of Allen Nature Centre l Rosslare Kilmoganny Clonroche Wexford
4 Monasterevin Ahenny Lukeswell NEW ROSS IRISH NATIONAL Bay
5 Kildare Tours Caher HERITAGE PARK Wexford Wildfowl
Reserve
6 Russborough House 0 Military Road Clonmel Carrick- Mullinavat Ballynabola
7 Powerscourt pp138–9 Comeragh on-Suir JOHNSTOWN WEXFORD
8 Bray Clogheen Suir Mountains Wellington CASTLE ROSSLARE
9 Killruddery House Ballymacarbry Coumfea WATERFORD Bridge Rosslare Harbour
711m
q Wicklow Mountains Mount Melleray Passage Bridgetown
East
793m
w Mount Usher Gardens Knockmealdown WA TERFORD Fethard Churchtown
e Glendalough Mountains Lemybrien DUNMORE Ballyteige Kilmore Quay
EAST
Bay
r Avondale House LISMORE Cappoquin Bunmahon
t Brownshill Dolmen Fermoy HOOK SALTEE
y Kilkenny pp146–8 Conna Tallow Dungarvan Clonea Bay PENINSULA ISLANDS
u Jerpoint Abbey Blackwater Ballynagaul
i Lismore
o Ardmore Kinsalebeg
p Waterford pp150–51 Cork Youghal ARDMORE
a Dunmore East Youghal
s Hook Peninsula Bay
d New Ross
f Enniscorthy
g Irish National Heritage Park 0 kilometres 20
h Wexford 0 miles 20
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13
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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  131





Athlone
Enfield Kilcock
CASTLETOWN
Carbury HOUSE
BOG OF ALLEN Dublin
NATURE CENTRE Dalkey
Clane
ROBERTSTOWN
Grand Canal Naas POWERSCOURT Killiney
Killiney Bay
Newbridge RUSSBOROUGH BRAY
KILDARE HOUSE KILLRUDDERY
MONASTEREVIN Liffey MILITARY HOUSE A 19th-century winged
horse at Powerscourt
KILDARE Mullaghcleevaun ROAD
848m
Portlaoise Hollywood Roundwood Newcastle
Fontstown MOUNT USHER
Athy Ballitore WICKL OW MOUNTAINS GLENDALOUGH GARDENS
Lugnaquillia Mt. Wicklow
926m
Ballylynan Baltinglass Rathdrum Getting Around
HOUSE
Castledermot WICKLOW AVONDALE Routes M11, M9 and M7 fan out from
Portlaoise Barrow Rathvilly Aughrim Dublin, serving Wexford, Waterford and
Kil dare respectively. Rail lines follow a
Durrow Newtown Carlow Woodenbridge similar course: the eastern coastal towns
Rathdowney BROWNSHILL DOLMEN
Castlecomer Tinahely Ferrybank are served by the Dublin Rosslare railway,
Ballyragget Tullow Arklow and there are good train services to
CARLOW Shillelagh Kildare, Kilkenny and Waterford. You will
Freshford need a car to explore the south coast;
Dunmore Leighlinbridge Ballon
Urlingford Cave Carnew Gorey the Passage East–Ballyhack ferry is a
Bagenalstown Slaney useful shortcut between Waterford and
Cashel Bunclody Courtown
KILKENNY Gowran Mount Leinster Wexford across the River Suir.
Mountains
793m
KILKENNY Borris Blackstairs Ferns Ballycanew
Bennettsbridge Kiltealy
Thomastown Kilnamanagh Key
JERPOINT Graiguenamanagh
ABBEY ENNISCORTHY Motorway
Knocktopher Inistioge WEXFORD Castleellis Major road
Blackwater
Kilmoganny Clonroche Wexford Secondary road
Ahenny NEW ROSS IRISH NATIONAL Bay Minor road
Caher Lukeswell Wexford Wildfowl
HERITAGE PARK Reserve Scenic route
Clonmel Carrick- Mullinavat Ballynabola WEXFORD Main railway
Comeragh on-Suir JOHNSTOWN Minor railway
Clogheen Suir Mountains Wellington CASTLE ROSSLARE
Coumfea Bridge Rosslare Harbour International border
Ballymacarbry 711m WATERFORD
Mount Melleray Passage County border
East
793m Bridgetown
Knockmealdown WA TERFORD Fethard Summit
Mountains DUNMORE Ballyteige Churchtown
Lemybrien Bay Kilmore Quay
Cappoquin EAST
LISMORE Bunmahon
Fermoy HOOK SALTEE
Tallow Dungarvan
Conna Clonea Bay PENINSULA ISLANDS
Ballynagaul
Blackwater
Kinsalebeg
Cork Youghal ARDMORE
Youghal
Bay
Imposing façade of Killruddery House and Gardens
For additional map symbols see back flap
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132  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

1 Castletown House

Built in 1722–29 for William Conolly, Speaker of the Irish
Parliament, the façade of Castletown was the work of Florentine
architect Alessandro Galilei and gave Ireland its first taste of
Palladianism. The magnificent interiors date from the second
half of the 18th century. They were commissioned by Lady
Louisa Lennox, wife of William Conolly’s great-nephew, Tom,
who lived here from 1759. Castletown remained in the family
until 1965, when it was taken over by the Irish Georgian Society.
The state now owns the house and it is open to the public.




. Long Gallery
The heavy ceiling sections and
friezes date from the 1720s and
the walls were decorated in the
Pompeiian manner in the 1770s.






Red Drawing Room
The red damask covering the walls
of this room is probably French and
dates from the 19th century. This
exquisite mahogany bureau was
made for Lady Louisa in the 1760s.


Boudoir Wall Paintings
The boudoir’s decorative panels,
moved here from the Long
Gallery, were inspired by the
Raphael Loggia in the Vatican.


KEY
1 West wing with kitchen and
visitor’s café.
2 The Dining Room, with a
compartmentalized ceiling, was
designed by Isaac Ware.
3 Green Drawing Room
4 The Entrance Hall is an austere
Neo-Classical room. Its most
decorative feature is the delicate
carving on the pilasters of the
upper gallery.
5 The Boar Hunt, painted by Paul
de Vos (1596–1678).
6 The east wing houses the
renovated stables, conference centre
and audio-visual room.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


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Date 23rd October 2012
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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  133


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Conolly’s Folly
This folly, which lies just Practical Information
beyond the grounds of Road map D4.
Castletown House, provides Celbridge, Co Kildare.
the focus of the view from Tel 01 628 8252.
∑ castletown.ie
the Long Gallery. Speaker
Conolly’s widow, Katherine, Open mid-Mar–end-Oct:
commissioned it in 1740 as daily). 7 limited. &
- 8 obligatory.
a memorial to her late
hus band, and to provide Summer: concerts.
employment after a harsh Transport
winter. The unusual structure @ 67, 67A from Dublin.
of superimposed arches
crowned by an obelisk is from
designs by Richard Cassels,
architect of Russ borough
House (see p136).


. Staircase Hall
This portrait of Lady Louisa
is part of the superb Rococo
stuccowork by the
Lafrancini brothers which
decorates the staircase.
























Entrance

. Print Room
In this, the only intact
18th-century print room
in Ireland, Lady Louisa
indulged her taste for
Italian engravings. It was
fashionable at that time
for ladies to paste prints
directly on to the wall
and frame them with
elaborate festoons.




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134  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION


2 Robertstown
Road map D4. Co Kildare. * 650. @
Ten locks west along the Grand
Canal from Dublin, Robertstown
is a characteristic 19th-century
canalside village, with ware-
houses and cottages flanking
the waterfront. Freight barges
plied the route until about 1960,
but pleasure boats have since
replaced them. Visitors can take
barge cruises from the quay.
Another landmark is the The Robertstown Hotel in Robertstown
Robertstown Hotel, built in
1801 for canal passengers. walks across the peat lands much to Victorian remodelling.
Near Sallins, about 8 km introduce visitors to the bog’s Once the ancestral seat of the
(5 miles) east of Robertstown, delicate ecosystem. Earls of Drogheda, in the 1920s
the canal is carried over the Moore Abbey became the
River Liffey along the Leinster home of the celebrated tenor,
Aqueduct, an impressive John McCormack (see p28).
structure built in 1783 and fine It is now a hospital.
example of engineering.
5 Kildare
3 Bog of Allen
Nature Centre Road map D4. Co Kildare. * 7,500.
£ @ n Market House 045 521240.
Road map D4. Lullymore, Co Kildare. ( Thu. ∑ kildare.ie
Tel 045 860133. £ to Newbridge.
@ to Allenwood. Open 9am–5pm Stacking peat for use as fuel The charming and tidy town
Mon–Fri, special weekends May–Sep. of Kildare is dominated by
& 7 limited. ∑ ipcc.ie 4 Monasterevin St Brigid’s Cathedral, which
commemorates the saint who
Road map D4. Co Kildare.
Housed in an old farmhouse * 3,000. @ ∑ monasterevin.ie founded a religious community
at Lullymore, 9 km (6 miles) on this site in 480. Unusually,
northeast of Rathangan, the This Georgian market town monks and nuns lived here
Nature Centre lies at the heart lies west of Kildare, where the under the same roof, but this
of the Bog of Allen, a vast Grand Canal crosses the River was not the only unorthodox
expanse of raised bogland (see Barrow. Waterborne trade practice associated with the
p256) that extends across the brought prosperity to Monast- community. Curious pagan
counties of Offaly, Meath, erevin in the 18th cen tury, but rituals, including the burning of
Westmeath, Laois and Kildare. the locks now see little traffic. a perpetual fire, continued until
An exhibition of flora, fauna and However, you can still admire the 16th century. The fire pit is
archaeological finds explores the aqueduct, which is a superb still visible, as is the
the history and ecology of the example of canal engineering. highest round tower
bog, while pre-booked guided Moore Abbey, next to the that can be climbed
church, was built in the 18th in Ireland, which was
century on the site of a probably built in
monastic foundation, but the the 12th century
grand Gothic mansion owes and has a Roman-
esque doorway. The
cathedral was rebuilt
in the Victorian era,










St Brigid’s Cathedral and roofless round tower in Kildare town
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


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Date 5th December 2012
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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  135


importance of horses in Irish life.
Exhibits include the frail skele-
ton of Arkle, a famous champion
steeple chaser in the 1960s.
Sharing the same estate as
the National Stud are the
Japanese Gardens and
St Fiachra’s Garden. The
Japanese Gardens were laid
out in 1906–10 by Japanese
landscape gardener Tassa Eida,
with the help of his son
Minoru and 40 assistants. The
impressive array of trees and
shrubs includes maple, bonsai,
mulberry, magnolia, sacred
bamboo and cherry. The
gardens take the form of an
allegorical journey through life,
beginning with the Gate of
Oblivion and leading to the
Gateway of Eternity, a con-
templative Zen rock garden.
St Fiachra’s Garden covers
1.6 ha (4 acres) of woodland,
wet land, lakes and islands,
Japanese Gardens at Tully near Kildare and features a Waterford
Crystal Garden within the
but the restorers largely adhered mares per season. There is a monastic cells.
to the 13th-century design. special foaling unit where the
mare and foal can remain Y National Stud and Japanese
R St Brigid’s Cathedral undisturbed after the birth. and St Fiachra’s Gardens
Market Square. Tel 085 120 5920. The farm has its own forge Tully. Tel 045 521617. Open mid-Feb–
Open May–Sep: daily. Donation. 7 and saddlery, and also a Horse Nov: 9am–6pm. Closed Dec–mid-Feb.
Museum. Housed in an old & 7 8 National Stud only. - =
Environs stable block, this illustrates the ∑ irishnationalstud.ie
Kildare lies at the heart of
racing country: the Curragh Horse Racing in Ireland
racecourse is nearby, stables
are scattered all around and Ireland has a strong racing culture and, thanks to its non-elitist image,
bloodstock sales take place at the sport is enjoyed by all. Much of the thoroughbred industry
Kill, northeast of town. centres around The Curragh, a grassy plain in County Kildare stretching
The National Stud is a semi- unfenced for more than 2,000 ha (5,000 acres). This area is home to
state-run bloodstock farm at many of the country’s studs and training yards, and every morning
Tully, just south of Kildare. It was horses are put through their paces on the gallops. Most of the major
founded in 1900 by an eccentric flat races, including the Irish Derby, take place at The Curragh
Racecourse just east of Kildare. Other fixtures are held at nearby
Anglo-Irish colonel called William Punchestown – most famously the steeplechase festival in April/
Hall-Walker. He sold his foals on May – at Leopardstown, which also hosts major National Hunt races
the basis of their astrological (see pp32–3) and Fairyhouse, home to the Irish Grand National.
charts, and put skylights in the
stables to allow the horses to
be “touched” by sunlight and
moon beams. Hall-Walker
re ceived the title Lord Wavertree
in reward for bequeathing the
farm to the British Crown in 1917.
Visitors can explore the
400-ha (1,000-acre) grounds
and watch the horses being
exercised. Mares are generally
kept in a separate paddock from
the stallions. Breeding stallions
wait in the covering shed: each Finishing straight at The Curragh Racecourse
one is expected to cover 100




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136  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION


plasterwork depicts a hunt, with
hounds clasping garlands of
flowers. The stucco mouldings
in the drawing room were
designed especially to enclose
marine scenes by the French
artist, Joseph Vernet (1714–89).
The paintings were sold in 1926,
but recovered over 40 years
later and returned to the house.
Russborough has many other
treasures, including finely
worked fireplaces of Italian
marble, imposing mahogany
doorways and priceless
collections of silver, porcelain
and Gobelin tapestries.
Such riches aside, one of
the principal reasons to visit
Russ borough is to see the Beit
Saloon in Russborough House with original fireplace and stuccowork Art Collection, famous for its
Flemish, Dutch and Spanish
6 Russborough claims the longest frontage in Old Master paintings. Sir Alfred
House Ireland, with a façade adorned Beit, who bought the house in
by heraldic lions and curved 1952, inherited the pictures from
Road map D4. Blessington, Co colonnades. The interior is even his uncle – also named Alfred
Wicklow. Tel 045 865239. @ 65 from more impressive. Many rooms Beit and co-founder of the de
Dublin. Open Mar–Dec: 10am–6pm feature superb stucco Beers diamond mining
daily. & 8 obligatory. 7 = - dec oration, which empire in South Africa.
∑ russboroughhouse.ie
was done largely In 1974, 1986 and
This Palladian mansion, built in by the Italian 2000 several
the 1740s for Joseph Leeson, Lafrancini master pieces
Earl of Milltown, is one of brothers, who were stolen
Ireland’s finest houses. Its also worked on from the house.
architect, Richard Cassels, also Castle town House Most were later
designed Powerscourt House (see pp132–3). The retrieved. More dis-
(see pp138–9) and is credited best examples are appeared in another
with introducing the Palladian found in the music Vernet seascape in the robbery in 2001, but
style to Ireland. room, saloon and drawing room were recovered. Only
Unlike many grand estates library, which are a selection of paintings
in the Pale, Russborough has embellished with exuberant is on view in the house at any
survived magnificently, both foliage and cherubs. Around the one time, while others are
inside and out. The house main staircase, a riot of Rococo on permanent loan to the

The History of the Pale
The term “Pale” refers to an area around Dublin
which marked the limits of English influence
from Norman to Tudor times. The frontier
fluctuated, but at its largest the Pale stretched
from Dundalk in County Louth to Waterford
town. Gaelic chieftains outside the area could
keep their lands provided they agreed to bring
up their heirs within the Pale.
The Palesmen supported their rulers’ interests
and considered themselves the upholders of
English values. This widened the gap between
the Gaelic majority and the Anglo-Irish, a fore-
taste of England’s doomed involvement in the
country. Long after its fortifications were
dismantled, the idea of the Pale lived on as a
state of mind. The expression “beyond the pale”
survives as a definition of those outside the An 18th-century family enjoying the privileged lifestyle
bounds of civilized society. typical within the Pale

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  137




















Bray’s beachfront esplanade, with Bray Head in the background
National Gallery in Dublin (see is scope for brac ing cliffside was remodelled in an Eliza-
pp74–5). A self-guided interactive walks. Bray also makes a good bethan Revival style in the
exhibition in the basement base from which to explore early 19th century. The house
includes 3-D photographs taken Powerscourt Gar dens, the contains some good carving
by Sir Alfred Beit in the 1920s Wicklow Moun tains and the and stuccowork, but the real
and 1930s, as well as a selection coastal villages of Killiney and charm of Killruddery lies in the
of vinyl records and sheet music Dalkey in Dublin (see p107). 17th-century formal gardens,
from the 1920s. regarded as the finest French
The west wing of the building Classical gardens in the
was fully restored following a fire 9 Killruddery country. They were laid out
in 2010, and eight double House and Gardens in the 1680s by a French
bed-rooms are now available gardener named Bonet, who
to rent. Bookings can be made Road map D4. Bray, Co Wicklow. also worked at Versailles.
through the Irish Landmark Trust Tel 01 286 3405. House: Open Jul– The gardens, planted with
(www.irishlandmark.com). Sep: 1–4pm daily. & Gardens: Open great precision, feature rom antic
1 May–30 Sep: 9:30am–6pm daily; parterres, hedges and many fine
Oct & Apr: 9:30am–6pm Sat & Sun.
Environs Farmer’s Market: Open 10am–4pm trees and shrubs. The sylvan
The Poulaphouca Reservoir, Sat. & 8 outside main opening theatre, a small enclosure
which was formed by the times, groups of 20–50 by appt only. surrounded by a bay hedge, is
damming of the River Liffey, 7 limited. - ∑ killruddery.com the only known example of its
extends south from Blessington. kind in Ireland.
It is popular with water sports Killruddery House lies just The Long Ponds, a pair of canals
enthusiasts, while others enjoy to the south of Bray, in the which extend 165 m (542 ft),
the mountain views. shadow of Little Sugar Loaf once stocked fish. Beyond, a pool
Mountain. Built in 1651, it has enclosed by two circular hedges
been the family seat of the leads to a Victorian arrangement
7 Powerscourt Earls of Meath ever since, of paths flanked by statues and
although the original mansion hedges of yew, beech and lime.
See pp138–9.
8 Bray
Road map D4. Co Wicklow.
* 33,000. £ DART. @ n Old
Court House, Main St (01 286 7128).
∑ bray.ie
Once a refined Victorian resort,
Bray is nowadays a brash holi-
day town, with amusement
arcades and fish and chip shops
lining the sea front. Its beach
attracts large crowds in summer,
including many young families.
A more peace ful alter native is
nearby Bray Head, where there View across the Long Ponds to Killruddery House




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7 Powerscourt

The gardens at Powerscourt are probably the
finest in Ireland, both for their design and their
dramatic setting at the foot of Great Sugar Loaf
Mountain. The house and grounds were
commissioned in the 1730s by Richard Wingfield,
the 1st Viscount Powerscourt. New ornamental
gardens were completed in 1875 by the 7th
Viscount, who added gates, urns and statues
collected during his travels in Europe. The house
was gutted by an accidental fire in 1974, but the Bamberg Gate
ground floor has been beautifully renovated and Made in Vienna in the 1770s, this gilded
wrought-iron gate was brought to
now accommodates an upmarket shopping Powerscourt by the 7th Viscount from
centre with an excellent restaurant and café. Bamberg Church in Bavaria.
























KEY
1 The Pets’ Cemetery contains the
graves of Wingfield family dogs, cats
and even horses and cattle.
2 Dolphin Pond, designed as a
fish pond in the 18th century, is
enclosed by exotic conifers in a Powerscourt House
lovely secluded garden.
3 The Walled Gardens include Originally built in 1731 on the site of a Norman castle, the
a formal arrangement of clipped Palladian mansion at Powerscourt was designed by Richard
laurel trees. Cassels, who was also the architect of Russborough House (see
p136). In 1974 a fire left the fine building a burnt-out, roofless
4 Statue of Laocoön shell. The Slazenger
5 The Italian Garden is laid out on family, who now
terraces which were first cut into the own the estate,
steep hillside in the 1730s. have restored part
6 The Pebble Mosaic was made of the house. It now
using many tonnes of pebbles, includes a terrace
which were gathered from Bray café, speciality
beach to construct the Perron. shops and
audiovisual displays
7 The Pepper Pot Tower was built covering the history
in 1911. of the estate. Powerscourt ablaze in 1974
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  139


. The Perron VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Leading down to
Triton Lake is the Practical Information
Perron, a beautiful Road map D4.
Italianate stairway Enniskerry, Co Wicklow.
added in 1874. Beside Tel 01 204 6000.
the lake, it is guarded ∑ powerscourt.ie
by two statues of Open 9:30am–5:30pm (dusk
Pegasus – the mythical Oct–Mar) daily. Closed 25 & 26
winged horse and Dec. & 7
emblem of the
Wingfield family. Transport
@ 185 from Bray DART station,
44 from Enniskerry.







































. Japanese
Gardens
These enchanting
Edwardian gardens,
created out of
bogland, contain
Chinese conifers
and bamboo trees.
. Triton Lake
Made for the first garden, the lake takes its
name from its central fountain, which is
modelled on a 17th-century work by
Bernini in Rome.
View of Lower Lake, Glendalough



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142  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION


0 A Tour of the Military Road

The British built the Military Road through the heart of the
Wicklow Mountains during a campaign to flush out Irish
rebels after an uprising in 1798 (see p153). Now known
as the R115, this road takes you through the emptiest
and most rugged landscapes of County Wicklow. Fine
countryside, in which deer and other wildlife flourish, is
characteristic of the whole of this tour.


DUBLIN
1 Glencree 9 Powerscourt
The former British barracks in Enniskerry Waterfall
Glencree are among several The River Dargle
found along the Military Road. Glencree Powerscourt cascades 130 m
(425 ft) over a granite
R760 escarpment to
R115 form Ireland’s
highest waterfall.
Dargle

R755
8 Great Sugar Loaf
2 Sally Gap The granite cone of Great
This remote pass is Sugar Loaf Mountain can
surrounded by a vast be climbed in under an
expanse of blanket R759 hour from the car park on
bog dotted with its southern side.
pools and streams.
R755
7 Lough Tay
3 Glenmacnass R115 Lough Dan Stark, rocky slopes plunge
After Sally Gap, the road down to the dark waters
drops into a deep glen Vartru resorvior of Lough Tay. Though it
where a waterfall spills lies within a Guinness-
dramatically over rocks. owned estate, the lake is
Annamoe accessible to walkers.
6 Roundwood
The highest village in Ireland at 238 m
Glenmacnass
(780 ft) above sea level, Roundwood
R756
Laragh
enjoys a fine setting. Its main street is
lined with pubs, cafés and craft shops.
4 Glendalough
This ancient lakeside monastery
(see pp144–5), enclosed by wood ed R755 Avonmore
slopes, is the prime historical sight
in the Wicklow Mountains. Clara
RATHDRUM
Tips for Drivers
Length: 96 km (60 miles). 0 kilometers 5
Stopping-off points: There 0 miles 5
are several pubs and cafés in
Enniskerry (including Poppies, 5 Vale of Clara
an old-fashioned tearoom), and Key This picturesque wooded valley
also in Roundwood, but this Tour route follows the River Avonmore. It
area is better for picnics. There contains the tiny village of Clara,
are several marked picnic spots Other roads which consists of two houses, a
south of Enniskerry. Viewpoint church and a school.





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Date 5th December 2012
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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  143

q Wicklow by the road. Among the
Mountains numerous walking trails here
is Wicklow Way, the oldest
Road map D4. £ to Rathdrum & established walking route in
Wicklow. @ to Enniskerry, Wicklow, Ireland, which extends 132 km
Glendalough, Rathdrum & Avoca.
n Rialto House, Fitzwilliam Square, (82 miles) from Marlay Park in
Wicklow (0404 69117). Dublin to Clonegal in County
∑ discoverireland.ie/eastcoast Carlow. It is marked but not
always easy to follow, so do not
Standing amid the rugged set out without a decent map.
wilderness of the Wicklow Moun­ Although no peak exceeds
tains, it can be hard to believe 915 m (3,000 ft), the Wicklow
that Dublin is under an hour’s Mountains can be dangerous
drive away. The inaccessibility of in bad weather.
the mountains meant that they Hiking apart, there is plenty
once provided a safe hideout to see and do in this region.
for opponents of English rule. A good starting point for
When much of the southeast exploring the northern area is Mount Usher Gardens, on the banks
was obedient to the English the estate village of Enniskerry. of the River Vartry
Crown, within an area known as In summer, it is busy with tourists
the Pale (see p136), warlords such who come to visit the gardens the hamlet of Avoca, where the
as the O’Tooles ruled in the at Powerscourt (see pp138–9). Avoca Handweavers produce
Wicklow Mountains. Rebels who From Laragh, to the south, you colourful tweeds in the oldest
took part in the 1798 uprising can reach Glendalough (see hand­weaving mill in Ireland,
(see p45) sought pp144–5) and the in operation since 1723.
refuge here too. Vale of Avoca, Further north, towards the
One of their where cherry trees coast near Ashford, the River
leaders, Michael are laden with Vartry rushes through the deep
Dwyer, remained blossom in the chasm of the Devil’s Glen. On
at liberty in the spring. The beauty entering the valley, the river falls
hills around Sally of this gentle 30 m (100 ft) into a pool known
Gap until 1803. valley was as the Devil’s Punchbowl. There
The building of captured in the are good walks around here,
the Military Road, Road sign in the Wicklow Mountains poetry of Thomas with fine views of the coast.
started in 1800, Moore (1779–
made the area more accessible, 1852): “There is not in the wide = Avoca Handweavers
but the mountains are still thinly world a valley so sweet as that Avoca. Tel 0402 35105. Open 9am–
populated. There is little traffic vale in whose bosom the bright 6pm daily. Closed 25 & 26 Dec. 0 =
to disturb enjoyment of the waters meet” – a reference to ∑ avoca.ie
beautiful rock­strewn glens, the confluence of the Avonbeg
lush forest and bogland where and Avonmore rivers, the
heather gives a purple sheen to so­called Meeting of the Waters w Mount Usher
the land. Turf­cutting is still a beyond Avondale House (see Gardens
thriving cottage industry, and p145). Nestled among wooded
you often see peat stacked up hills at the heart of the valley is Road map D4. Ashford, Co Wicklow.
Tel 0404 40205. @ to Ashford.
Open 10am–6pm daily. & = -
7 limited. 8 call to book.
∑ mountushergardens.ie
Set beside the River Vartry
just east of Ashford are the
Mount Usher Gardens. They
were designed in 1868 by a
Dubliner, Edward Walpole, who
imbued them with his strong
sense of romanticism.
The gardens contain more than
5,000 species of shrubs and
trees, from Chinese conifers and
bamboos to Mexican pines. The
Maple Walk is glorious in autumn.
The river provides the main
focus, and amid the vegeta tion
Colourful moorland around Sally Gap in the Wicklow Mountains you can glimpse herons.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


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144  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

e Glendalough
Road map D4. Co Wicklow.
@ St Kevin’s Bus from Dublin. Ruins
Open 9:30am–5pm (to 6pm mid-
Mar–mid-Oct) daily. 8 in summer.
Visitor Centre Tel 0404 45325/45352.
Open daily. Closed 23–30 Dec. &
∑ glendalough.ie
The steep, wooded slopes
of Glendalough, the “valley
of the two lakes”, harbour one
of Ireland’s most atmospheric
monastic sites. Established by View along the Upper Lake at Glendalough
St Kevin in the 6th century, the
settlement was sacked time and the 10th to 12th centuries. the 1870s using stones found
again by the Vikings but never- Many were restored during the inside the tower. The roofless
theless flourished for over 600 1870s. The main group of ruins Cathedral nearby dates mainly
years. Decline set in only after lies east of the Lower Lake, but from the 10th and 13th
English forces partially razed the other buildings associated with centuries and is the valley’s
site in 1398, though it functioned St Kevin are by the Upper Lake. largest ruin. At the centre
as a monastic centre until the Here, where the scenery is of the churchyard stands
Dissolution of the Monasteries much wilder, you the tiny Priests’ House,
in 1539 (see p42). Pilgrims kept on are better able to whose name derives from
coming to Glendalough even enjoy the the fact that it was a burial
after that, particularly on St Kevin’s tranquillity of place for local clergy. The
Feast Day, 3 June, which was Glendalough and worn carving of a robed
often a riotous event (see p34). to escape the figure above the door is
The age of the buildings is crowds which possibly of St Kevin,
uncertain, but most date from inevitably flanked by two disci ples.
descend on the St Kevin’s Kitchen East of here, is St Kevin’s
site. Try to arrive as Cross, which dates from
early as possible in the day, the 8th century. Made of granite,
particularly during the peak it is one of the best preserved
tourist season. You enter the of Glendalough’s High Crosses.
monastery through the double Below, nestled in the lush valley,
stone arch of the Gatehouse, a minuscule oratory with a
the only surviving example in steeply pitched stone roof is a
Ireland of a gateway into a charming sight. Erected in the
monastic enclosure. 11th century or even earlier, it
A short walk leads to a is popularly known as St Kevin’s
graveyard with a Round Tower Kitchen; this is perhaps because
in one corner. Reaching 30 m its belfry, thought to be a later
(100 ft) in height, this is one of addition, resembles a chimney.
Remains of the Gatehouse, the original the finest of its kind in the One of the earliest churches at
entrance to Glendalough country. Its cap was rebuilt in Glendalough, St Mary’s, lies
Plan of Glendalough
The Visitor Centre explains the history of the Round tower Gatehouse
monastery and is the best place to start a tour. St Mary’s Church Cathedral
You can see both groups of ruins, which lie St Kevin’s Kitchen
less than 1.5 km (1 mile) apart, in about
two hours, but to make the most Lower
of the site allow a full day. Lake

Key
Road
Upper Lake Path
Teampall-na-Skellig Reefert Church 0 metres 500
St Kevin’s St Kevin’s Cell 0 yards 500
Bed
For key to symbols see back flap


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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  145


St Kevin at Glendalough
St Kevin was born in 498, a descendant of the royal house of Leinster.
He rejected his life of privilege, however, choosing to live instead as a
hermit in a cave at Glendalough. He later founded a monastery here,
and went on to create a notable centre of learning
devoted to the care of the sick and the copying
and illumination of manuscripts. St Kevin
attracted many disciples to Glendalough
during his life time, but the monastery
became more celebrated as a place of
pilgrimage after his death in around 618.
Colourful legends about the
saint make up for the dearth of
facts about him. That he lived to
the age of 120 is just one of the
stories told about him. Another tale
claims that one day, when St Kevin was
at prayer, a blackbird laid an egg in one
of his outstretched hands. The saint
Round tower at Glendalough remained in the same position until
it was hatched.
across a field to the west. Some
traces of moulding are visible
outside the east win dow. Follow­ r Avondale House in the 18th century and much
ing the path along the south added to since 1900. There are
bank of the river, you reach the Road map D4. Co Wicklow. Tel 0404 some lovely walks through the
Upper Lake. This is the site of 46111. £ @ to Rathdrum. House: woods, with pleasant views
more monas tic ruins and is also Open Jun–Aug: 11am–5pm daily; along the River Avonmore.
the chief starting point for walks Apr–May & Sep–Oct: 11am–4pm
through the valley and to a number Tue–Sun. Closed Good Fri & 23–28 t Brownshill
Dec. & 0 = 7 limited. Grounds:
of disused lead and zinc mines. Open 8:30am–8:30pm daily.
Situated in a grove not far ∑ heritageisland.com Dolmen
from the Poulanass waterfall are Road map D4. Co Carlow.
the ruins of the Reefert Church, Lying just south of Rathdrum, £ @ to Carlow. Open daily.
a simple nave­and­chancel Avondale House is the birth­
building. Its unusual name is a place of the 19th­century In a field 3 km (2 miles) east of
corruption of Righ Fearta, politician and patriot, Charles Carlow, along the R726, stands
meaning “burial place of the Stewart Parnell (see p47). The a dolmen boasting the biggest
kings”; the church may mark the Georgian mansion is now a capstone in Ireland. Weighing
site of an ancient cemetery. museum dedicated to Parnell a reputed 100 tonnes, this
Near here, on a rocky spur and the fight for Home Rule. massive stone is embedded in
overlooking the Upper Lake, The grounds are open the earth at one end and
stands St Kevin’s Cell, the ruins to the public. Known supported at the other by three
of a beehive­shaped structure as Avondale Forest much smaller stones. Dating
which is thought to have been Park, they include back to 2000 BC, Brownshill
the hermit’s home. an impressive Dolmen is thought to
There are two sites on the arboretum mark the tomb of a
south side of the lake which planted local chieftain. A
cannot be reached on foot but path leads to it
are visible from the oppo site from the road.
shore. Teampall-na-Skellig, or
the “church of the rock”, was
supposedly built on the site of
the first church that St Kevin
founded at Glendalough. To the
east of it, carved into the cliff, is
St Kevin’s Bed. This small cave,
in reality little more than a rocky
ledge above the upper lake, was
apparently used as a retreat by
St Kevin. It was from here that
the saint allegedly rejected the
advances of a woman by
tossing her into the lake. Brownshill Dolmen, famous for its enormous capstone
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


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146  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

y Street-by-Street: Kilkenny
Grace’s Castle was built in
Kilkenny is undoubtedly Ireland’s St Canice’s Irishtown 1210 and later converted
loveliest inland city. It rose to Cathedral into a jail. Remodelled
prominence in the 13th century and in the 18th century,
it has functioned
became the medieval capital of as a courthouse
Ireland. The Anglo-Norman ever since.
Butler family came to power P A R L I A M E N T S T R E E
in the 1390s and held sway
over the city for 500 years.
Their power has gone but
their legacy is visible in the T
city’s historic buildings, many
of which have been restored.
Kilkenny is proud of its heritage
and every August hosts the S T K I E R A N ´ S S T R E E T
Republic’s top arts festival and
the Catslaugh Comedy Festival. H
I
G
H

S
T
R
E
Narrow alleyways, E
known locally as T
“slips”, are part of
Kilkenny’s medieval
heritage. Several
slips survive,
and these are
currently under-
going restoration.
Marble
. Rothe House City Bar
This fine Tudor merchant’s house,
built around two court yards, is
fronted by arcades once typical of
Kilkenny’s main streets. A small Tholsel (City Hall)
museum inside the house contains
a display of local archaeological
artifacts and a costume collection.


Kyteler’s Inn
This medieval coaching inn (see
p326) is named after Dame Alice
Kyteler, a 14th-century witch
who once lived in the building.
Like most of the pubs in the city,
Kyteler’s Inn sells Smithwick’s
beer, which has been brewed
in Kilkenny since 1710.

Key
Suggested route
Butter Slip
The alley is named after the
butter stalls that once lined this
small marketplace.
For key to symbols see back flap



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SOUTHEAST IRELAND  147


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C4. Co Kilkenny.
* 26,000.
n Shee Alms House, Rose Inn St
(056 775 1500).
Rothe House: Tel 056 772 2893.
Open Apr–Oct: 10:30am–5pm
Mon–Sat, 3–5pm Sun; Nov–Mar:
10:30am–4:30pm Mon–Sat.
Closed 1–2pm Sat. &
Transport
£ Dublin Rd (056 772 2024).
View of the High Street @ Bus Eireann (051 317 864).
The 18th-century Tholsel, with its distinctive clock tower and
arcade, is the main landmark on the High Street. Its elegant
Georgian chamber is used by city councillors to this day.
St Mary’s Hall


St John’s
Bridge
To train and bus
stations, Dublin

. Kilkenny Castle
Set in a commanding position overlooking
the River Nore, this Norman fortress is one
C A N A L
S Q of Ireland’s most famous castles. The Long
E T Gallery, the finest room in the house,
E has a striking 19th-century hammer-
R
T beam and glass roof.
S

N
N
I 0 metres 50

E
S 0 yards 50
O
R
T T H E P A R A D E
E
E
R
T
S

K
C
I
R
P A T To Cork, Waterford
The Shee Alms House
is one of Ireland’s few Kilkenny Design Centre
surviving Tudor alms- Housed in Kilkenny Castle’s stable block,
houses and is now the centre has a nationwide reputation.
the city’s tourist You can see craftspeople in action
information office. and also buy their work.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


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Exploring Kilkenny
Set in a lovely spot beside a kink
in the River Nore, Kilkenny is of
great architectural interest, with
much use made of the distinctive
local black lime stone, known
as Kilkenny marble. A tour of
the town also reveals many
unexpected treasures: a Georgian
façade often seems to conceal
a Tudor chimney, a Classical
interior or some other surprise.
The survival of the Irishtown
district, now dominated by
St Canice’s Cathedral, recalls
past segregation in Kilkenny. North side of Kilkenny Castle showing Victorian crenellations
The area once known as
English town still boasts the retains its medieval form, but has survived as one of Ireland’s
city’s grandest public buildings. has undergone many alterations. medieval treasures. Walls of the
As a brewery city, Kilkenny is a The Victorian changes made local Kilkenny limestone and
paradise for keen drinkers, with in Gothic Revival style have pillars of pale limestone combine
at least 60 pubs to choose from. had the most enduring impact. to create an interior of simple
Two wings of the castle grandeur. An array of splendid
have been restored to their 16th-century tombs includes the
19th-century splendour and beautiful effigies of the Butler
include a library, drawing family in the south transept. It is
room and the magnificent worth climbing the tower for a
Long Gallery with its restored fine view over Kilkenny.
picture collection. The final
phase of restoration includes R Black Abbey
a state-of-the-art conference Abbey St. Tel 056 772 1279.
centre, which is situated in Open daily. 7 ∑ kilkenny.ie
one of the castle’s beautiful Lying just west of Parliament
Sign of the Marble City Bar on 12th-century towers. Street, this Dominican abbey
Kilkenny’s High Street The castle grounds have was founded in 1225. Part of it
diminished considerably was turned into a courthouse in
+ Kilkenny Castle over the centuries, but the the 16th century, but is once
The Parade. Tel 056 770 4100. French Classical gardens again a working monastery. The
Open daily (check website for details). remain, with terraces opening church has a fine vaulted under-
Closed Good Fri & Christmas. & - onto a woodland walk and croft, distinctive stone work, some
^ 8 obligatory. 7 limited. Queues pleasant rolling parkland. beautiful stained-glass windows,
are likely during the summer. and a 14th-century alabaster
∑ kilkennycastle.ie R St Canice’s Cathedral statue of the holy trinity.
Built in the 1190s, Kilkenny Irishtown. Tel 056 776 4971.
Castle was occupied right Open daily. & = 7 Environs
up until 1935. The powerful ∑ stcanicescathedral.com Just north of the town lies
Butler family (see p146) lived in The hilltop cathedral, flanked by Dunmore Cave, a limestone
it from the late 14th century. a round tower, was built in the cavern with an impressive series
Their descendants eventually 13th century in an Early English of chambers, noted for its
donated Kilkenny Castle to the Gothic style. It was sacked by curious rock formations.
nation in 1967. Cromwell’s forces in 1650, but Bennettsbridge, on the
With its drum Nore 8 km (5 miles) south of
towers and Kilkenny, is famous for its
solid walls, ceramics. The Nicholas Mosse
the castle Pottery (see p337) specializes in
colourful earthenware made
from the local clay.

} Dunmore Cave
Ballyfoyle. Tel 056 776 7726.
Open Mar–Oct: 9:30am–5pm daily (to
6:30pm mid-Jun–mid-Sep); Nov–Feb:
9:30am–5pm Wed–Sun. & - 8
Tomb of 2nd Marquess of Ormonde in St Canice’s Cathedral obligatory. ∑ heritageireland.ie
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp297–8 and pp311–13


148-149_EW_Ireland.indd 148 08/03/17 11:06 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2)
Date 14th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm