(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Ireland

THE MIDLANDS  249


With monuments predating
Egypt’s pyramids, the Boyne
Valley is marketed as the Irish
“Valley of the Kings”.
Newgrange and Knowth can
only be seen on a tour run by
Brú na Bóinne Interpretative
Centre near Newgrange. The
centre has displays on the
area’s Stone Age heritage and a
reconstruction of Newgrange.

T Dowth
Off N51, 3 km (2 miles) E of
Newgrange. Closed to the public.
The passage grave at Dowth
was plundered by Victorian
souvenir hunters and has not Slane Castle in grounds landscaped by Capability Brown
been fully excavated. You
cannot approach the tomb, but w Old Mellifont possible to appre ciate the
it can be seen from the road. Abbey scale and ground plan of the
original complex. Little survives
T Knowth Road map D3. Tullyallen, Cullen, of the abbey church, but to the
1.5 km (1 mile) NW of Newgrange. Co Louth. Tel 041 982 6459. south of it, enclosed by what
Open as Newgrange (see pp250–51). £ to Drogheda. @ to Drogheda or remains of the Roman esque
Knowth outdoes Newgrange in Slane. Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm cloister, is the most interesting
several respects, above all in the daily (last adm: 45 mins before build ing at Melli font: a unique
quantity of its treasures, which closing). & 8 ∑ mellifontabbey.ie 13th­century octag onal
form the greatest con centration On the banks of the lavabo where monks
of megalithic art in Europe. Also, River Mattock, 10 km washed their hands in
the site was occupied for a much (6 miles) west of a foun tain before
longer period – from Neolithic Drogheda, lies the meals. Four of the
times right up until about 1400. first Cistercian building’s eight sides
Unusually, Knowth has two monastery to have survive, each with a
passage tombs rather than one. been built in Ireland. Romanesque
The excavations begun in 1962 Mellifont was Glazed medieval tiles arch. To the east
are now complete and the site founded in 1142 on at Mellifont Abbey of the cloister
is open. The tombs can only be the orders of St stands the
viewed externally Malachy, the Arch bishop of 14th­century chapter house,
to prevent further Armagh. He was greatly with its impressive vaulted
decay. Keep a influenced by St Bernard who, ceiling and medieval tiled floor.
lookout for the based at his monastery at
finely carved Clairvaux in France, was
kerbstones. behind the success of the e Slane
Visitors sign Cistercian Order in Europe. Road map D3. Co Meath.
up for tours The archbishop introduced * 950. @
via Brú na not only Cistercian rigour
Bóinne. to Mellifont, but also the Slane is an attractive estate
formal style of monastic vill age, centred on a quartet of
architecture used on the Georgian houses. The Boyne
Continent. His new flows through it and skirts Slane
monastery be came a Castle Demesne, which is set in
model for other Cistercian glorious grounds laid out in the
centres built in Ireland, 18th century by Capability Brown.
retaining its supre macy The castle was damaged by fire
over them until 1539, in 1991 but reopened in 2001.
when the abbey was Just to the north rises the
closed and turned into a Hill of Slane where, in 433,
fortified house. William of St Patrick is said to have lit a
Orange used Melli font as Paschal (Easter) fire as a chal­
his head quarters during lenge to the pagan High King
the Battle of the Boyne of Tara (see p252). The event
in 1690. The abbey is symbolized the triumph of
Ruined lavabo at Mellifont Abbey now a ruin, but it is still Christianity over paganism.




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Newgrange
The origins of Newgrange, one of the most important passage
graves in Europe, are steeped in mystery. According to Celtic
lore, the legendary Kings of Tara (see p252) were buried here,
but Newgrange predates them. Built in around 3200 BC,
the grave was left untouched by all invaders until it was
rediscovered in 1699. When it was excavated in the 1960s,
archaeolo gists discovered that on the winter solstice
(21 December), rays of sun enter the tomb and light up
the burial chamber – making it the world’s oldest solar
observatory. All visitors to Newgrange and Knowth Basin Stone
(see pp248–9) are admitted through the visitors’ centre from The chiselled stones in each
recess would have contained
where tours of the historic site are taken. Long queues are funerary offerings and cremated
expected in summer and access is not always guaranteed. human remains.

KEY
1 The chamber has three recesses
or side chambers: the north recess is
the one struck by sun light on the
winter solstice.
2 The standing stones in the
passage are slabs of slate which
would have been collected locally.
3 Roof box
4 The retaining wall around the
front of the cairn was rebuilt using
the white quartz and granite stones
found scattered around the site
during excavations.



Chamber Ceiling
The burial chamber’s intricate corbelled
ceiling, which reaches a height of 6 m
(20 ft) above the floor, has survived intact.
The overlapping slabs form a conical
hollow, topped by a single capstone.

Construction of Newgrange
Mound
The tomb at Newgrange was designed by
people with clearly exceptional artistic and Entrance
engineering skills, who had use of neither
the wheel nor metal tools. About 200,000 Stone circle (existing
tonnes of loose stones were transported to stones shaded)
build the mound, or cairn, which protects
the passage grave. Larger slabs were used to 100 m Decorated stones
make the circle around the cairn (12 out of a 328 ft (shaded)
probable 35 stones have survived), the kerb
and the tomb itself. Many of the kerbstones
and the slabs lining the passage, the chamber
and its recesses are decorated with zigzags,
spirals and other geometric motifs. The Recesses Passage Entrance
grave’s corbelled ceiling consists of smaller,
unadorned slabs and has proved completely 25 m
waterproof for the last 5,000 years. 82 ft
Plan of passage and burial chamber

For hotels and restaurants in this region see p302 and pp321–3


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THE MIDLANDS  251


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D3. 8 km (5 miles)
E of Slane, Co. Meath. Tel 041 988
0300. Open May–Sep: 9am–
6:30pm (Jun–mid-Sep: 7pm)
daily; Oct–Apr: 9:30am–5:30pm
(Nov–Jan: 9am–5pm) daily; last
tour: 1 hr 45 mins before closing.
Closed 24–27 Dec. & ^ inside
tomb. 7 Brú na Boinne visitors’
centre only. 8 0 =
∑ newgrange.com
Restoration of Newgrange Transport
£ to Drogheda. @ to
Located on a low ridge north of the Boyne, Newgrange took
more than 70 years to build. Between 1962 and 1975 the Drogheda & Drogheda to Brú
passage grave and mound were restored as closely as possible na Boinne visitors’ centre.
to their original state.




Passage
At dawn on 21 December, a
beam of sunlight shines
through the roof box
(a feature unique to
Newgrange), travels along
the 19-m (62-ft) passage
and hits the central recess
in the burial chamber.


























Entrance
Newgrange’s most elaborately
carved kerbstone stands just in
front of the entrance, forming
part of the kerb of huge slabs
around the cairn.




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Trim Castle set in water meadows beside the River Boyne
r Hill of Tara The Trim Visitor Centre houses trail leads to the Saints Peter and
a multimedia exhi bi tion on the Paul Cathedral further east.
Road map D3. Nr Killmessan Village,
Co Meath. Tel 046 902 5903. town’s history. It is also the A lovely walk leads from the
@ to Navan. Open mid-May–mid- starting point for a heritage castle along the River Boyne to
Sep:10am–6pm daily (last adm 1hr trail, which takes in eight sites, Newtown Abbey.
before closing). & Interpretative including the town’s two castles
Centre. 8 ∑ hilloftara.org and two cathedrals. + Trim Castle
The dramatic Trim Castle was Tel 046 943 8619. Open mid-Mar–Oct:
A site of mythical importance, Tara founded in the 12th century 10am–6pm daily; Nov–mid-Mar:
was the political and spirit ual by Hugh de Lacy, a Norman 9am–5pm Sat & Sun. & 8
centre of Celtic Ireland and the knight, and is one of the largest obligatory. ∑ heritageireland.ie
seat of the High Kings until medieval castles in Europe. It
the 11th century. The spread of makes a spectac ular backdrop
Christianity, which eroded the for films and was used in Mel
importance of Tara, is marked by a Gibson’s film Braveheart in 1995. y Mullingar
statue of St Patrick. The symbolism Over the river is Talbot Castle, Road map C3. Co Westmeath.
of the site was not lost on Daniel an Augustinian abbey converted * 25,000. £ @ n Market Square
O’Connell (see p46), who chose to a manor house in the 15th (044 934 8650). ∑ mullingar.ie
Tara for a rally in 1843, attended century. Just north of the abbey
by over one million people. is St Patrick’s Cathedral, which The county town of West-
Tours from the Interpretative incorporates part of a medieval meath is a prosperous but
Centre take in a Stone Age church with a 15th-century unremarkable market town
passage grave and Iron Age hill tower and sections of the encircled by the Royal Canal,
forts, which, to the untutored original chancel. From here the which with its 46 locks links
eye, look like mere hollows and
grassy mounds. Clearest is the
Royal Enclosure, an oval fort, in
the centre of which is Cormac’s
House containing the “stone of
destiny” (Liath Fáil), fertility
symbol and inaugur ation
stone of the High Kings. Most
moving, however, is the
poignant atmosphere and
views over the Boyne Valley.

t Trim
Road map D3. Co Meath. * 6,500.
@ n Castle St (046 943 7227).
( Fri. ∑ meath.ie
Trim is one of the most
pleasing Midlands market
towns. A Norman stronghold
on the River Boyne, it marked a
boundary of the Pale (see p136). Aerial view of Iron Age forts on the Hill of Tara
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p302 and pp321–3


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THE MIDLANDS  253


Dublin with the River Shannon.
The cost of building the canal
bankrupted its investors and it
was never profitable. Mullingar’s
main appeal is as a base to
ex plore the surrounding area,
but pubs such as Canton Casey’s
and Con’s are a pleasant interlude.
Environs
The Dublin to Mullingar stretch
of the Royal Canal has attractive
towpaths for walkers, and fishing.
Just off the Kilbeggan road
from Mullingar stands Belve dere
House, a romantic Palla dian villa
overlooking Lough Ennel.
The house, built in 1740 by
Richard Cassels, is decorated
with Rococo plasterwork and
set in beautiful grounds. Athlone Castle below the towers of the church of St Peter and St Paul
Shortly after the house was
built, the first Earl of Belvedere u Kilbeggan E Kilbeggan Distillery Experience
accused his wife of having an Road map C4. Co Westmeath. Lower Main St. Tel 057 933 2134.
affair with his brother, and * 1,000. @ Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm; Nov–Mar:
imprisoned her for 31 years in a 10am–4pm daily. & 7 0 8 =
nearby house. In 1760, the Earl Situated between Mullingar and ∑ kilbeggandistillery.com
built a Gothic folly – the Jealous Tullamore, this pleasant village
Wall – to block the view of his has a small harbour on the Grand
second brother’s more opulent Canal. However the main point i Athlone
mansion across the way. The of interest is Kilbeggan Distillery Road map C3. Co Westmeath.
Jealous Wall remains as does an Experience. Founded in 1757, it * 16,000. £ @ n Market Square
octagonal gazebo and follies. claims to be the oldest licensed (090 649 4630). ( Sat.
Charming terraces descend to pot still distillery in the world to
the lake. On the other side of be still producing whiskey. The town owes its historical
the house is a picturesque Unable to compete with Scotch importance to its position by
walled garden, enclosed by an whisky manufac turers, the a natural ford on the River
arboretum and parkland. company went bank rupt in Shannon. Athlone Castle is a
1954, but the aroma hung in 13th-century fort ress, which
P Belvedere House the ware houses was badly damaged
6.5 km (4 miles) S of Mullingar. Tel 044 for years and in the Jacobite Wars
934 9060. Open May–Aug: 9:30am–5pm was known as (see pp42–3). It lies in
(house), 9:30am–8pm (garden) daily; “the angel’s share”. the shadow of the
Mar–Apr & Sep–Oct: 9:30am–7pm The distillery 19th-century church of
(house), 9:30am–5pm (gar den) daily; reopened as a St Peter and St Paul.
Nov–Feb: 9:30am–4pm (house), museum in 1987. The neighbouring
9:30am–4:30pm (garden). & - The building is streets offer several
7 centre. ∑ belvedere-house.ie
authentic, a good pubs. Across
solid structure Miniature whiskey bottles at the river from the
complete with Kilbeggan Distillery Experience castle, boats depart
waterwheel and for Clonmacnoise
steam engine. A tour traces the (see pp254–5) or Lough Ree.
process of Irish whiskey-making,
from the mash tuns to the vast + Athlone Castle
fermentation vats and creation Visitors’ Centre Tel 090 644 2130.
of wash (rough beer) to the Open 11am–5pm Tue–Sat; 12pm–
distillation and maturation 5pm Sun. & 7 limited.
stages. At the tasting stage,
workers would sample the Environs
whiskey in the can pit room. The Lough Ree Trail starts 8 km
Visitors can still taste whiskeys (5 miles) northeast of Athlone, at
in the bar. Produc tion restarted Glasson, and is a popular cycling
The Jealous Wall at Belvedere House, in 2007, and the results have tour that runs around the shores
near Mullingar been on sale since 2014. and into County Longford.




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o Clonmacnoise

This medieval monastery, in a remote spot by the
River Shannon, was founded by St Ciarán in 545–548.
Clonmacnoise lay at a crossroads of medieval routes,
linking all parts of Ireland. Known for its scholarship
and piety, it thrived from the 7th to the 12th century.
Many kings of Tara and of Connaught were buried
here. Plundered by the Vikings and Anglo-Normans,
it fell to the English in 1552. Today, a group of stone
churches (temples), a cathedral, two round towers
and three High Crosses remain.
Last Circuit of Pilgrims at Clonmacnoise
This painting (1838), by George Petrie,
Cross of the Scriptures shows pilgrims walking the traditional
This copy of the original 9th-century route three times around the site. Pilgrims
cross (now in the museum) is still do this every year on 9 September,
decorated with biblical scenes, St Ciarán’s Day.
but the identity of most of the
figures is uncertain.













KEY
1 The Pope’s Shelter was where
John Paul II conducted Mass during
his visit in 1979.
2 The Round Tower (see p24) is
over 19 m (62 ft) high with its
doorway above ground level.

Visiting Clonmacnoise Pilgrim path to
The Visitors’ Centre is housed in three buildings modelled Nuns’ Church
on beehive huts (see p25). The museum section contains
early grave slabs and the three remaining High Crosses, Entrance
replicas of which now stand in their original locations.
The Nuns’ Church, northeast of the main site, has a
Romanesque doorway and chancel arch.
Key
1 South Cross 7 Cathedral
2 Temple Dowling 8 North Cross
3 Temple Hurpan 9 Cross of the Scriptures
4 Temple Melaghlin 10 Round Tower
5 Temple Ciarán 11 Temple Connor
6 Temple Kelly 12 Temple Finghin
0 metres 50
Pope’s Shelter To Visitors’
0 yards 50 Centre
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p302 and pp321–3


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THE MIDLANDS  255


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map C4. 7 km (4 miles)
N of Shannonbridge, Co Offaly.
Tel 090 967 4195. Open daily.
Groups pre-book. Closed 25 &
26 Dec. & 8 in sum mer. 7
- ∑ heritageireland.ie
Transport
£ @ to Athlone, then minibus
(090 647 4839/ 087 240 7706).
4 from Athlone.
Whispering Door The Tullamore Dew Heritage Centre,
Above the cathedral’s 15th-century north Co Offaly
doorway are carvings of saints Francis,
Patrick and Dominic. The acoustics of the p Tullamore Dew
doorway are such that even a whisper is Heritage Centre
carried inside the building.
Road map C4. Bury Quay, Tullamore,
Co Offaly – access from Dublin
Galway N6 & Dublin–Cork N7 roads.
Tel 057 932 5015. Open 9:30am–6pm
Mon–Sat, 11:30am–5pm Sun.
Closed 24 Dec–1 Jan. & 8 0
- = 7 ∑ tullamoredew.com
The town of Tullamore and its
most famous export, Tullamore
Dew Whiskey, are intrinsically
linked. It makes sense, there-
fore, that the Tullamore Dew
Heritage Centre should attempt
to explore not only the history
of the Tullamore Dew brand
but also that of the town itself.
The refurbished centre is
housed in the original Tullamore
Dew distillery, dating back
to 1897. Visitors can wander
through the fascinating
re-created working stations
of the distillery, such as the
malting, bottling, corking and
co operage areas as well as the
warehouse where the old oak
barrels filled with whiskey were
left to mature.
The history of Tullamore
town itself starts 9,000 years
ago with the formation of the
bog. The centre explains raised
bogs and the different uses of
peat. Here, too, visitors can
chain themselves to stocks, a
public punishment of the day,
fill a whiskey bottle by hand
and see and touch vari ous
artifacts for themselves.
The tour ends in the on-site
Temples Dowling, Hurpan and Melaghlin bar with a complimentary
Built as a family crypt, Temple Hurpan was a 17th-century addition to glass of whiskey or Irish Mist
the early Romanesque Temple Dowling. The 13th-century Temple Liqueur, both of which are
Melaghlin has two fine round-headed windows. on sale in the gift shop.




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The Raised Bogs of the Midlands

Peatland or bog, which covers about 15 per cent of the Irish landscape, exists in two
principal forms. Most extensive is the thin blanket bog found chiefly in the west, while
the dome-shaped raised bogs are more characteristic of the Midlands – notably in an
area known as the Bog of Allen. Although Irish boglands are some of the largest in
Europe, the use of peat for fuel and fertilizer has greatly reduced their extent, threatening
not only the shape of the Irish landscape but also the survival of a unique habitat and
the unusual plants and insects it supports.


Peat cutters still
gather turf (as peat
is known locally) by
hand in parts of
Ireland. It is then set
in stacks to dry. Peat
makes a good fuel,
because it is rich in
partially decayed
vegetation, laid
down over
Unspoiled expanse of the Bog of Allen thousands of years.

Fen plants Birch and Fen plants (reeds Fen peat
willow scrub and sedges)






Moraine (glacial
deposits) Mud
8000 BC: Shallow meltwater lakes that formed 6000 BC: As the fen vegetation died, it sank to
after the Ice Age gradually filled with mud. Reeds, the lake bed but did not decompose fully in the
sedges and other fen plants began to dominate waterlogged conditions, forming a layer of peat.
in the marshy conditions which resulted. This slowly built up and also spread outwards.
Fen peat Fresh sphagnum Pine and Raised bog
peat alder trees








Buried tree stumps Tree stumps
3000 BC: As the peat built up and the lake slowly Present day: Few raised
disappeared, plant life in the developing bog had bogs are actively growing
to rely almost exclusively on rainwater, which is today. Those that remain
acid. Fen plants could not survive in these acidic contain a fascinating
conditions and gave way to bog mosses, mainly historical record of the
species of sphagnum. As these mosses died, they landscape. The survival of
formed a layer of sphagnum peat on the surface ancient tree stumps
of the bog which, over the centuries, attained a shows how well plants
distinctive domed shape. are preserved in peat. Sphagnum moss





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THE MIDLANDS  257

a Birr
Road map 4C. Co Offaly. * 4,100.
@ n May–Sep: Rosse Row
(05791 20110). Open Mon–Fri.
Birr, a gentrified estate town,
grew up in the shadow of the
castle where the Earls of Rosse
have resided for almost four
centuries. It is famous for its
authentic Georgian layout, with
houses displaying original
fanlights, door panelling and
iron railings. Two particularly
elegant streets are Oxmantown
Mall, designed by the 2nd Earl An alcove in the front hall of Emo Court with a trompe I’oeil ceiling
of Rosse, and John’s Mall.
Emmet Square may have sold their 9-m (30-ft), 200-year-old d Emo Court
its Georgian soul to commerce, box hedges and for the exotic Road map D4. 13 km (8 miles) NE of
but Dooley’s Hotel is still a fine trees and shrubs from foreign Portlaoise, Co Laois. Tel 05786 26573.
example of an old coaching expeditions sponsored by the £ to Monasterevin or Portlaoise.
inn. Foster’s bar, in nearby 6th Earl. The magnolias and House: Open Easter–Sep: 10am–6pm
Connaught Street, is one of maples are particularly striking. daily (last adm: 1hr before closing).
many traditional shopfronts The gardens over look the Gardens: Open daily. & 7 limited.
to have been restored in Birr. meeting of two rivers.
Emo Court, commissioned by
P Birr Castle Demesne s Slieve Bloom the Earl of Portarlington in 1790,
Rosse Row. Tel 05791 20336. Gardens represents the only foray into
Open mid-Mar–Oct: 9am– 6pm; Mountains domestic architecture by James
Nov–mid-Mar: 10am–4pm. Gandon, designer of the Custom
& 7 - = ∑ birrcastle.com Road map D4. Co Offaly and Co Laois. House in Dublin (see p92). The
£ to Mountmellick. n May–Sep:
Birr Castle was founded in 1620 Rosse Row, Birr (05791 20110). monumental Neo-Classical
by the Parsons, later Earls of mansion has a splendid façade
Rosse, and is still the family seat. This low range of mountains featuring an Ionic portico. Inside
They are most noted for their rises unexpectedly from the are a magnificent gilded rotunda
contribution to astronomy – a bogs and plains of Offaly and and fine stuccowork ceilings.
telescope named the Leviathan, Laois, providing a welcome Emo Court became the
built by the 3rd Earl in 1845, was change in the predominantly prop erty of the Office of Public
the largest in the world at the flat Midlands. You can walk Works in 1994 but the previous
time. The 17-m (56-ft) wooden along the Slieve Bloom Way, owner is still resident on the
tube, support ed by two walls, a 30-km (19-mile) circular trail grounds. These are adorned
can be seen in the grounds, fully through an unspoiled area of with fine statuary and include
restored. The Historic Science open vistas, deep wooded glens a lakeside walk.
Centre traces the family’s work. and mountain streams. There are
The castle is closed to the other marked paths too. Good f Rock of
public, but the glory of Birr lies starting points are Cadamstown,
in its grounds, which are open. with an attrac tive old mill, and Dunamase
First landscaped in the 18th the pretty village of Kinnitty – Road map D4. 5 km (3 miles) E of
century, these are famous for both in the northern foothills.
Portlaoise, Co Laois. £ to Portlaoise.
The Rock of Dunamase, which
looms dramatically above the
plains east of Portlaoise, has
long been a military site.
Originally crowned by an Iron
Age ring fort, the 13th-century
castle which succeeded it is
now more prominent – though
it was virtually destroyed by
Cromwellian forces in 1651. You
can reach the battered keep by
climbing up banks and ditches
through two gate ways and a
Rock of Dunamase viewed from Stradbally to the east fortified courtyard.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see p302 and pp321–3


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IRELAND REGION B Y REGION  259

NORTHERN

IRELAND


Londonderry • Antrim • Tyrone • Fermanagh
Armagh • Down
Northern Ireland has sights from every era of Ireland’s history as
well as magnificently varied coastal and lakeland scenery. During the years of
the “Troubles”, it received fewer visitors than the Republic, however, now that
there is a movement towards peace it is attracting the attention it deserves.
The area constituted as Northern Ireland and Scottish Protestants (see p43). Many
was created after partition of the island Plantation towns, such as London derry,
in 1921. Its six counties (plus Donegal, preserve their 17th-century layout around
Monaghan and Cavan) are part of Ulster, a central square or “diamond”. The arrival of
one of Ireland’s four trad itional kingdoms. new settlers meant that Irish Catholics
It was most probably in Ulster that were increas ingly marginalized, thereby
Christianity first ousted the old Celtic sowing the seeds of 400 years of conflict.
pagan beliefs. In 432 St Patrick landed In the relative tranquillity of the 18th
at Saul in County Down, later found ing century, the Anglo-Irish nobility built stately
a church at Armagh, which is still the homes, such as Mount Stewart House on
spiritual capital of Ireland. the Ards Peninsula and Castle Coole near
The dominant political force in early Enniskillen. Ulster also enjoyed prosperity in
Christian times was the Uí Néill clan. Their the 19th century through its linen, rope-
descendants, the O’Neills, put up fierce making and ship-building industries.
resistance to English con quest in the late Though densely populated and
16th century. Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Tyrone, industrialized around Belfast, away from
had some notable successes against the the capital the region is pri marily agri-
armies of Elizabeth I, but was defeated cultural. It also has areas of outstanding
and in 1607 fled to Europe with other natural beauty, notably the rugged
Irish lords from Ulster, in what became Antrim coastline around the Giant’s
known as the “Flight of the Earls”. Causeway, the Mountains of
Vacant estates were granted to Mourne in County Down and
individu als and companies, who the Fermanagh lakelands in
planted them with English the southwest.
















Belfast’s City Hall (1906), symbol of the city’s civic pride
The striking stained-glass Famine Window in Belfast City Hall



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Exploring Northern Ireland

The starting point for most visitors to the Province is its capital
city, Belfast, with its grand Victorian buildings, good pubs and the
excellent Ulster Museum. However, Northern Ireland’s greatest
attrac tions lie along its coast. These range from the extraordinary
volcanic landscape of the Giant’s Causeway to Carrickfergus,
Ireland’s best-preserved Norman castle. There are also Victorian RATHLIN
ISLAND
resorts, like Portstewart, tiny fishing villages and unspoiled sandy CAUSEWAY COAST
GIANT'S
beaches, such as Benone Strand. Ramblers are drawn to the CAUSEWAY Murlough
Bay
Mountains of Mourne, while anglers and boating enthu siasts Magilligan Pt PORTSTEWART Portrush OLD BALLYCASTLE
can enjoy the Fermanagh lakelands of Lower Lough Erne. BENONE STRAND BUSHMILLS
DISTILLERY
Cushendun
Lough MUSSENDEN Coleraine Armoy
Foyle TEMPLE Antrim Hills
Ballykelly Ballymoney CUSHENDALL
Bridgend Limavady
Culmore
LONDONDERRY Bann Clogh Mills
Drumahoe Roe Garvagh GLENARIFF
LONDONDERRY Rasharkin FOREST PARK
St Johnstown Kilrea ANTRIM The
Dungiven Maidens
Foyle Claudy Cullybackey Broughshane Ballygalley
Letterkenny Ballymena
Dunnamanagh Maghera Portglenone LARNE Island
Sawel
Strabane Sperrin Mountains Ahoghill Magee
683m
Draperstown
Harbour and promenade at the Ballybofey Finn Plumbridge Hamilton Castledawson Randalstown Ballynure Whitehead
Mount
seaside resort of Portstewart Mourne BEAGHMORE Toome Ballyclare CARRICKFERGUS
Castlederg Gortin STONE CIRCLES Bridge Antrim
Newtownstewart COOKSTOWN Newtownabbey ULSTER FOLK AND
TRANSPORT MUSEUM
Donegal Bangor Donaghadee
ULSTER-AMERICAN TYRONE Wellbrook
Lough FOLK PARK Omagh Beetling Mill LOUGH Newtownards
Derg Pomeroy NEAGH BELFAST
THE WILSON
ANCESTRAL HOME Dunmurry MOUNT
LOWER LOUGH Peatlands Park Lough Neagh STEWART
ERNE Dromore DUNGANNON Wildlife Reserve Discovery Lisburn
Belleek Kesh Fintona Centre HOUSE ARDS PENINSULA
Sligo Ballygawley Lurgan Saintfield Strangford
BELLEEK POTTERY Tully Irvinestown Aughnacloy Moy Portadown Craigavon HILLSBOROUGH Lough
Lough FERMANAGH Ballynahinch
Melvin DEVENISH Clogher Navan Gilford DOWN Castle Ward Portaferry
Derrygonnelly ISLAND Fivemiletown Blackwater Ulster Canal Fort ARMAGH Banbridge Strangford
ENNISKILLEN DOWNPATRICK LECALE
Belcoo Castle Coole Markethill CASTLEWELLAN PENINSULA Kilclief Castle
Sligo Marble Arch FLORENCE Maguiresbridge Middletown ARM AGH FOREST PARK
Caves Global COURT Lisnaskea Rosslea Keady Castlewellan Dundrum Ardglass
Geopark Mullan Dundrum St John’s Point
Upper Newtownhamilton Hilltown Newcastle Bay
Derrylin Lough Monaghan Slieve Donard
Key Erne Clones Newry MOUNTAINS 852m
Motorway Castleblayney Warrenpoint OF MOURNE
MOURN E
Belturbet Silent
Motorway under construction Rostrevor Valley
Major road Cavan Crossmaglen Carlingford Lough COAST
Secondary road Greencastle
Minor road Dublin Whites Town
Scenic route Getting Around
Main railway Belfast is the transport hub of Northern Ireland.
Minor railway From here the train network runs northwest to
Londonderry and south to Dublin. Buses serve rural
International border
areas in most parts of the Province and are frequent
County border and punctual. However, a car is essential if you want
Summit to go off the beaten track in search of ancient
monuments or tour the coast at leisure.
For additional map symbols see back flap
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Date 17th October 2012
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NOR THERN IRELAND  261


Sights at a Glance
1 Londonderry pp262–3 y Belleek Pottery
2 Benone Strand i Devenish Island
3 Mussenden Temple o Enniskillen
4 Portstewart p Marble Arch Caves
5 Causeway Coast Global Geopark
6 Giant’s Causeway pp266–7 a Florence Court
RATHLIN 7 Old Bushmills Distillery s Dungannon
ISLAND
CAUSEWAY COAST 8 Rathlin Island d Armagh
GIANT'S
9 Ballycastle
f Lough Neagh
Bay
PORTSTEWART CAUSEWAY Murlough 0 Cushendall g Larne
Magilligan Pt OLD BALLYCASTLE q Glenariff Forest Park h Carrickfergus
BENONE STRAND Portrush BUSHMILLS
DISTILLERY w Cookstown j Belfast pp280–83
Cushendun
Lough MUSSENDEN Coleraine Armoy e Beaghmore Stone Circles k Ulster Folk and
Foyle TEMPLE Antrim Hills r The Wilson Ancestral Home Transport Museum
t Ulster-American Folk Park l Ards Peninsula
Ballykelly Ballymoney CUSHENDALL
Bridgend Limavady z Mount Stewart House pp286–7
Culmore
LONDONDERRY Bann Clogh Mills x Hillsborough
Drumahoe Roe Garvagh GLENARIFF c Downpatrick
LONDONDERRY Rasharkin FOREST PARK v Lecale Peninsula
St Johnstown Kilrea ANTRIM The
Dungiven Maidens b Castlewellan Forest Park
Foyle Claudy Cullybackey Broughshane Ballygalley n Mountains of Mourne
Letterkenny Ballymena
Dunnamanagh Maghera Portglenone LARNE Island Tours
Sawel
Strabane Sperrin Mountains Ahoghill Magee u Lower Lough Erne
683m
Ballybofey Finn Plumbridge Mount Draperstown Castledawson Randalstown Ballynure Whitehead m Mourne Coast
Mourne Hamilton Ballyclare
BEAGHMORE
Castlederg Gortin STONE CIRCLES Toome Antrim CARRICKFERGUS
Bridge
Newtownstewart COOKSTOWN Newtownabbey ULSTER FOLK AND
TRANSPORT MUSEUM
Donegal Bangor Donaghadee
ULSTER-AMERICAN TYRONE Wellbrook
Lough FOLK PARK Omagh Beetling Mill LOUGH Newtownards
Derg Pomeroy NEAGH BELFAST
THE WILSON
ANCESTRAL HOME Dunmurry MOUNT
LOWER LOUGH Peatlands Park Lough Neagh STEWART
ERNE Dromore DUNGANNON Wildlife Reserve Discovery Lisburn
Belleek Kesh Fintona Centre HOUSE ARDS PENINSULA
Sligo Ballygawley Lurgan Saintfield Strangford
BELLEEK POTTERY Tully Irvinestown Aughnacloy Moy Portadown Craigavon HILLSBOROUGH Lough
Lough FERMANAGH Ballynahinch
Melvin DEVENISH Clogher Navan Gilford DOWN Castle Ward Portaferry
Derrygonnelly ISLAND Fivemiletown Blackwater Ulster Canal Fort ARMAGH Banbridge Strangford
ENNISKILLEN DOWNPATRICK LECALE
Belcoo Castle Coole Markethill CASTLEWELLAN PENINSULA Kilclief Castle
Sligo Marble Arch FLORENCE Maguiresbridge Middletown ARM AGH FOREST PARK
Caves Global COURT Lisnaskea Rosslea Keady Castlewellan Dundrum Ardglass
Geopark Mullan Dundrum St John’s Point
Upper Newtownhamilton Hilltown Newcastle Bay
Derrylin Lough Monaghan Slieve Donard
Erne Clones Newry MOUNTAINS 852m
Castleblayney Warrenpoint OF MOURNE
MOURN E
Belturbet Silent
Rostrevor Valley
Cavan Crossmaglen Carlingford Lough COAST
Greencastle
Dublin
Whites Town
0 kilometres 20
0 miles 20
Dry-stone walls on slopes of the Mountains of Mourne
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5
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262  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

1 Londonderry

St Columba founded a monastery here beside . Tower Museum
the River Foyle in 546. He called the place Doire The excellent displays
on local history in this
or “oak grove”, later anglicized as Derry. In 1613, museum include one on
the city was selected as a major Plantation the mapping of the area
project (see pp42–3), organized by London during the reign of
livery companies. As a result, it acquired the Elizabeth I.
prefix London, though it is equally popular Shipquay Gate
as Derry. Although Derry suffered during
the “Troubles”, there have been a number of
admirable heritage projects undertaken in the city,
leading to it being named the 2013 UK City of Culture.
M A G A Z I N E S T




The Craft Village

First Presbyterian
S H I P Q U A Y S T R E E T
Church
Butcher’s Gate



The Diamond
the war memorial in
the Diamond or main
square was erected in
1927. It was originally
B I S H O P S T R E E T W I T H I N F E R R Y Q U A Y S T R E E T M A R K E T S T R E E T
made for the city of LINENHALL STREET NEWMARKET STREET
Sheffield in England.



Court House P U M P S T R E E T
A R T I L L E R Y S T R E E T To Craigavon Bridge


and River Foyle
L O N D O N S T




The
playhouse
New Gate
Bishops Gate

. St Columb’s Cathedral
The nave’s wooden ceiling dates from 1862.
The corbels are carved with the heads of
former bishops and deans.
For key to symbols see back flap



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NOR THERN IRELAND  263


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST R St Columb’s Cathedral The city walls rise to a height of
London St. Tel 028 7126 7313. 8 m (26 ft) and in places are 9 m
Practical Information Open Mon–Sat. 8 on request. 7 (30 ft) wide. Completed in 1618
Road map C1. Co Londonderry. ∑ stcolumbscathedral.org to defend the new merchant
* 107,000. n 44 Foyle St (028 Built between 1628 and 1633, city from Gaelic chieftains in
7137 7577). _ Hallowe’en in “Planters’ Gothic” style, St Donegal, the walls have never
Festival (Oct). ( Sat. Columb’s was the first cathedral been breached, not even during
Transport to be found ed in the British the siege of 1689, when 7,000
~ 11 km (7 miles) E. Isles after the Reformation.The out of a popu lation of 20,000
£ Waterside, Duke St (028 7134 interior was extensively restored perished from disease or star-
2228). @ Foyle St (028 7126 2261). in the 19th century. A small vation. Restoration work means
museum in the Chapter House that it is possible to walk right
has relics from the siege of around the walls. Just outside
1689 (see pp42–3), including the old fortifica tions, beyond
the17th-century locks and keys Butcher’s Gate, is the Bogside,
of the city. In the vestibule is a a Catholic area with famous
hollow mortar cannonball that murals that depict recent events
was fired into the city by James in Northern Ireland’s history.
II’s army. It carried terms for
capitulation, but the reply of the P The Guildhall
Protestants within the walls Guildhall St. Tel 028 7136 5151.
was a defiant “No surrender”. Open 10am–5:30pm daily. 7
Standing between the walled
E Tower Museum
city and the River Foyle, this
S H I P Q U A Y S T R E E T Open Nov–Mar: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; con structed in 1890, but a
Neo-Gothic building was
Union Hall Place. Tel 028 7137 2411.
Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm Mon–Sat, noon–
fire in 1908 and a bomb in 1972
4pm Sun. & 7 8
both necessitated substantial
Housed in O’Doherty Tower
repairs. Stained-glass windows
(a replica of the original 16th-
To the rear is Derry Quay, from
century building on this site), recount the history of Derry.
. The Guildhall the museum traces the history where Irish emigrants sailed
This stained-glass of the city from its foundation to to America in the 18th and
window shows St the “Troubles” using multimedia 19th centuries.
LINENHALL STREET NEWMARKET STREET feature incidents about the 1588 Spanish Armada Environs
Columba. Others
displays. Upstairs, an exhibition
from the siege of
The Peace Bridge, which
includes artifacts from the
Derry, including
Trinidad Valencera, wrecked in
opened in 2011, provides
the Apprentice
M A R K E T S T R E E T city gates in 1688. nearby Kinnagoe Bay. foot and cycle access across
Boys shutting the
the River Foyle. The bridge links
the city walls of Derry and the
+ The City Walls of Derry
Ebrington Centre, which is
Access from Magazine Street.
F E R R Y Q U A Y S T R E E T
completely walled city in Ireland and culture centre and includes
Ferryquay Derry is the only remaining being developed into an arts
and its fortifications are among
a 14,000-capacity outdoor
A R T I L L E R Y S T R E E T To Craigavon Bridge
Gate
performance plaza and a cinema.
the best preserved in Europe.
and River Foyle
0 metres 100
0 yards 100
Key
Suggested route
The Derry Peace Bridge, linking Derry with Ebrington Centre
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5
262-263_EW_Ireland.indd 263 08/03/17 11:08 am

264  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION


4 Portstewart
Road map D1. Co Londonderry.
* 8,000. £ to Coleraine or Portrush.
@ n Coleraine (028 7034 4723).
∑ northcoastni.com
A popular holiday destination
for Victorian middle-class
families, Portstewart is still a
family favourite today. Its long,
crescent-shaped seafront
promenade is sheltered by
rocky headlands. Just west of
town, and accessible by road or
by a cliffside walk, stretches
Portstewart Strand, a magni-
ficent, long, sandy beach,
protected by the National Trust.
Spectacular view of the seashore at Portstewart On Ramore Head, just to the
east, lies Portrush, a brasher
2 Benone Strand Augustus Hervey, the eccentric resort with an abundance of
Earl of Bristol and Protestant souvenir shops and amusement
Road map. D1. Co Londonderry.
n Benone Tourist Complex, 53 Bishop of Derry, as a memorial arcades. The East Strand is
Benone Ave, Limavady (028 7775 to his cousin Mrs Frideswide backed by sand dunes and runs
0555). Open Easter–Sep: daily. Mussenden. The design was parallel with the world-class
based on the Temple of Vesta Royal Portrush Golf Club. You
The wide, golden sands of one at Tivoli outside Rome. can stroll along the beach
of Ireland’s longest beaches, The walls, made of basalt to White Rocks – limestone cliffs
also known as Magilligan faced with sandstone, open carved by the wind and waves
Strand, sweep along the out at the four points of the into caves and arches.
Londonderry coastline for compass to three windows and To the south is Coleraine.
more than 10 km (6 miles). an entrance. Originally designed Every May, the North West 200
The magnificent beach has for use as a library (or, as some (see p32), the world’s fastest
been granted EU Blue Flag stories go, an elaborate boudoir motorcycle road race, is run
status for its cleanli ness. At the for the bishop’s mistress), the between Portstewart, Coleraine
western extremity of the beach struc ture is now maintained by and Portrush, in front of
is Magilligan Point where a the National Trust and remains 100,000 people.
Martello tower, built during the in excellent condition.
Napoleonic wars, stands guard The bishop allowed the local
over the entrance to Lough priest to say Mass for his Roman
Foyle. To get to the point, Catholic tenants in the basement.
renowned for its rare shellfish The bishop’s former residence,
and sea birds, you have to drive the nearby Downhill Castle, was
past a military training ground. gutted by fire and is now little
There are great views across to more than an impressive shell.
Donegal from the Strand. The surrounding area offers
some good glen and cliff walks
3 Mussenden and there are some magnifi cent
views of the Londonderry and
Temple Antrim coastline. Below the
temple is Downhill Strand,
Road map D1. Co Londonderry.
Tel 028 708 48728. Grounds: Open where the bishop
dawn–dusk daily (last adm: 30 mins sponsored horseback
before closing). Temple: Open Mar– races be tween
Oct: 10am–5pm daily. & 7 limited. his clergy.
∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
The oddest sight along the
Londonderry coast is this small,
domed rotunda perched
precariously on a windswept
headland outside the family
re sort of Castlerock. The temple
was built in 1785 by Frederick Mussenden Temple set on a clifftop on the Londonderry coast
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  265

5 Causeway Coast
Road map D1. Co Antrim. n Giant’s
Causeway (028 2073 1855).
Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge Tel 028
2076 9839. Open 10:30am–3:30pm.
Closed 25 & 26 Dec. & - 7
limited. ∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
The renown of the Giant’s
Causeway (see pp266–7),
Northern Ireland’s only World
Heritage Site, overshadows
the other at tractions of this
stretch of North Antrim coast.
When visiting the Causeway, it The roofless ruins of 13th-century Dunluce Castle
is well worth investigating the
sandy bays, craggy headlands Dunluce and only one massive it provides access to the
and dramatic ruins that wall remains. Once the capital salmon fishery on the tiny
punctuate the rest of this of the kingdom of Dalriada, it island across the 20-m (65-ft)
inspirational coastline. was linked to Tara (see p252) chasm. There are strong hand-
Approaching the Causeway by a great road and was the rails and safety nets, but it’s
from the west, you pass the departure point for 5th-century definitely not for those with
eerie ruins of Dunluce Castle Irish raids on Scotland. vertigo. Further east along
perched on a steep crag. Dating Just past the attractive, the coast lies Kinbane Castle,
back to the 13th cen tury, it sandy White Park Bay, a tight a 16th-century ruin with
was the main fortress of the switch back road leads down spectacular views.
MacDonnells, chiefs of Antrim. to the picturesque harbour of
Although the roof has gone, it Ballin toy, reminiscent – on + Dunluce Castle
is still well preserved, with its a good day – of an Aegean Tel 028 2073 1938. Open daily.
twin towers, gateway and fishing vill age. Sheep Island, & 8 in summer and by appt.
some cobbling intact. a rocky out crop just offshore, ∑ discovernorthernireland.com
Dunseverick Castle can be is a cormor ant colony. Boat
reached by road or a lengthy trips run past it in the summer.
hike from the Causeway. It is a Just east of Ballintoy is one
much earlier fortification than of the most unusual and scary
tourist attractions in Ireland,
the Carrick-a-rede Rope
Bridge. The bridge hangs
25 m (80 ft) above the sea and
wobbles and twists as soon
as you stand on it. Made of Fishing boats moored in the shelter
planks strung between wires, of Ballintoy Harbour

The North Antrim Coastline
Key
Minor road
Major road


Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge
Dunseverick
Giant’s Castle Sheep Island Carrick-a-rede
Causeway White Park Bay Rope Bridge
B14 Kinbane
Ballintoy Castle
Dunluce A2 B15
Castle Portballintrae Ballycastle
Bushmills A2
Portrush B17 B17
A2 B2 B147
Portstewart B17 B66 0 kilometres 5
B7
0 miles 3
For additional map symbols see back flap


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266  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

6 Giant’s Causeway

The sheer strangeness of this place and the bizarre
regularity of its basalt columns have made the Giant’s
Causeway the subject of numerous legends. The most
popular tells how the giant, Finn MacCool (see pp30–31),
laid the causeway to provide a path across the sea to
Scotland to engage in battle with a rival Scottish giant by
the name of Benandonner. The Giant’s Causeway attracts
many tourists, who are taken by the busload from the
visitors’ centre down to the shore. Nothing, however, can Aird’s Snout
destroy the magic of this place, with its looming grey cliffs This nose-shaped promontory
and shrieking gulls; paths along the coast allow you to juts out from the 120-m (395-ft)
escape the crowds. basalt cliffs that soar above the
Giant’s Causeway.

The Formation of the Causeway
Hot lava
Wooded Valley
landscape 61 million years ago:
In a series of massive
volcanic eruptions
molten lava poured
from narrow fissures in
the ground, filling in
Lower the valleys and burn ing
basalts the vegetation that
grew there.
Limestone
Non-eroded
Tholeiitic surface 60 million years ago:
basalt lava This layer of tholeiitic
basalt lava cooled
rapidly. In the process
it shrank and cracked
evenly into polygonal-
Inter- shaped blocks, forming
basaltic layer columnar jointing
beneath the surface.

Steam and 58 million years ago:
gas clouds New volcanic eruptions
produced further
lava flows. These had
a slightly different
New lava chemical composition
flows from earlier flows and,
once cool, did not
form such well
defined columns.
Snow Scree KEY
15,000 years ago: At
Ice the end of the Ice Age, 1 Inter-basaltic layer
when the land was still 2 Road
frozen, sea ice ground
its way slowly past 3 Little Causeway
the high basalt cliffs, 4 Plant debris is trapped between
eroding the foreshore the lava flows.
Sea water and helping to form 5 Grand Causeway
the Giant’s Causeway.
6 Lower basalts

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  267


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map D1. Co Antrim.
Visitors’ Centre Causeway
Head (028 2073 1855).
∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
Open daily. Closed 24–26 Dec.
7 limited. 8 on request. & -
Giant’s Causeway Bushmills
Railway heritage steam trains:
Giant’s Causeway and the North Antrim Coast Tel 028 2073 2844.
Millions of years of geological activity can be witnessed in the eroded Open call for times. 7 & =
cliffs flanking the Causeway. The striking band of reddish rock is the
inter-basaltic layer, which formed during a long period of temperate Transport
£ to Portrush. @ from Portrush,
climatic conditions. The high iron content explains the rock’s rich
ochre colour. Bush mills or Coleraine.
Shape of the Columns
Most columns are
hexagonal, but some
have four, five, eight or
even ten sides. They
generally measure about
30 cm (12 in) across.
Middle Causeway
This section of the Middle
Causeway is known as the
Honeycomb. Like other unusual
rock formations along the coast,
it was christened by local
guides during Victorian times.
Giant’s Causeway Today
It has been estimated that 40,000 basalt
columns extend from the cliffs down
into the sea. Close to the shore,
they have been eroded
to form the Grand,
Middle and Little
Causeways.





















Wishing Chair
Myth has it that this rocky seat was made for Finn
MacCool when he was a boy, and that wishes
made here will come true.
Sun setting over the spectacular Giant’s Causeway



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7 Old Bushmills
Distillery
Road map D1. Bushmills, Co Antrim.
Tel 028 2073 3272. @ from Giant’s
Causeway & Coleraine. Open Mar–
Oct: 9:15am–4:45pm Mon–Sat, noon–
4:45pm Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–4:45pm
Mon-Sat, noon–4:45pm Sun. Closed
2 weeks at Christmas, Sun am. &
8 obligatory. = 0 7 limited.
∑ bushmills.com
The small town of Bushmills
has a great river for salmon and
trout fishing, but its main claim
to fame is whiskey. The Old Murlough Bay, on the coast facing Scotland to the east of Ballycastle
Bushmills plant on the edge of
town prides itself on being the 8 Rathlin Island High white cliffs encircle much
world’s oldest distillery. Its Grant Road map D1. Co Antrim. * 90. of the island, and at craggy Bull
to Distil dates from 1608, but the g daily from Ballycastle (028 2076 Point on the westerly tip, tens of
spirit was probably made here at 9299). n Giant’s Causeway (028 2073 thousands of sea birds, including
least 200 years before that. 1855). ∑ rathlin-island.co.uk kittiwakes, puffins and razorbills,
In 2005 Bushmills became make their home. A local minibus
part of the Diageo Group, but Rathlin is shaped rather like a service will take visitors to view
its products retain their own boomerang – 11 km (7 miles) in the birds. At the opposite end of
character. Most are a blend of length and at no point more the island is Bruce’s Cave, where,
different whiskeys; than 1.6 km (1 mile) wide. in 1306, Robert Bruce, King of
Old Bushmills, in The island is just a Scotland, supposedly watched a
contrast, is made 50-minute boat ride spider climbing a thread. The
from a combined from Ballycastle. spider’s perseverance inspired
blend of a single About 90 people the dejected Bruce to return
malt and grain. live on Rathlin and win back his kingdom.
The tour of the Island, making a
distillery ends with living from fishing,
a whiskey sampling farming and tourism. 9 Ballycastle
session in the 1608 Facilities are limited to Road map D1. Co Antrim. * 6,000.
Bar in the former Whiskey barrel at a café, a pub, a guest- @ g to Campbeltown (Scotland).
malt kilns, which are Bushmills Distillery house and a hostel. n Sheskburn House, 7 Mary St (028
also home to a small The fierce, salty Atlantic winds 2076 2024). _ Ould Lammas Fair
museum with old distilling ensure that the landscape on (end Aug), Apple Fair (end Oct).
equipment on display. Rathlin is virtually treeless. ∑ moyle-council.org

Irish Whiskey A medium-sized resort town,
Ballycastle boasts a pretty
The word whiskey comes from the Gaelic uisce beatha, meaning harbour and a sandy beach.
water of life. Distillation was probably introduced to Ireland by monks Near the seafront is a memorial
from Asia over 1,000 years ago. Small-scale production became part to Guglielmo Marconi, whose
of the Irish way of life, but in the 17th century, the English introduced assistant sent the first wireless
a licensing system and started to close down stills. In the 19th message across water from here
century, post-famine poverty and the Temperance movement to Rathlin Island in 1898.
combined to lower Ballycastle’s Ould Lammas Fair,
demand. The result held for nearly 400 years now, is
was that Scotch one of the oldest traditional fairs
whisky (with no “e”)
stole an export in Ireland. Held in late August, it
march on the Irish, features stalls selling dulce
but thanks to (dried, salted seaweed) and
lower production yellowman (honeycomb toffee).
costs, improved On the outskirts of town, the
marketing and the ruined 15th-century Bonamargy
rise in popularity of Friary houses the remains of
Irish coffee, sales Sorley Boy MacDonnell, former
Poster showing the Old Bushmills Distillery beside have increased chieftain of this part of Antrim.
the River Bush around the world. Sections of the church, gatehouse
and cloisters are well preserved.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  271


Environs
Off the A2, 5 km (3 miles) east of
town, a narrow scenic road starts
to wind its way along the coast
to Cushendall. First stop is Fair
Head, where a poorly marked
path meanders across heathery
marshland to towering cliffs
200 m (650 ft) above the sea.
From here there are stunning
views of Rathlin and the islands
off the Scottish coast.
To the lee side of the head­
land lies Murlough Bay, the Carnlough Harbour, a popular stop south of Cushendall
prettiest inlet along the coast.
This can be reached by road. edifice known as Curfew Tower, was a major centre of Stone
Further to the southeast built in the early 19th century as Age tool­making and axeheads
stands Torr Head, a peninsula a lock­up for thieves and idlers. made of Tievebulliagh’s hard
that reaches to within 21 km porcellanite rock have been
(13 miles) of the Mull of Environs found at a wide range of sites
Kintyre, making it the closest About 1.5 km (1 mile) north of all over the British Isles.
point in Ireland to Scotland. the village stands Layde Old Other attractive villages further
Church. It can be reached by south along the coast road
a pretty walk along the cliffs. include Carnlough, which has a
0 Cushendall Founded by the Franciscans, it fine sandy beach and a delightful
was a parish church from 1306 harbour, and Ballygally, whose
Road map D1. Co Antrim. * 2,400.
@ n 25 Mill St (028 2177 1180). to 1790 and contains many supposedly haunted 1625 castle
Open Jun–Sep: 10am–5pm Tue–Sat; monuments to the local is now a hotel (see p302).
Oct–May: 10am–1pm Tue–Sat. chieftains, the MacDonnells.
∑ moyle-council.org Just over 3 km (2 miles) west q Glenariff
of Cushendall, on the slopes of
Three of the nine Glens of Tievebulliagh Mountain, lies Forest Park
Antrim converge towards Ossian’s Grave, named after Road map D1. Co Antrim.
Cushendall, earning it the the legendary warrior­poet and Tel 028 2955 6000. Open daily.
unofficial title of “Capital of the son of the giant Finn MacCool & for car park. 7 limited.
Glens”. This attractive village has (see pp30–31). It is in fact a ∑ nidirect.gov.uk/ forests
brightly painted houses and an Neolithic court tomb: the area
Nine rivers have carved deep
valleys through the Antrim
Mountains to the sea. Celebrated
in song and verse, the Glens of
Antrim used to be the wildest
and most remote part of Ulster.
This region was not “planted”
with English and Scots settlers
in the 17th century and was the
last place in Northern Ireland
where Gaelic was spoken.
Today the Antrim coast road
brings all the glens within easy
reach of the tourist. Glenariff
Forest Park contains some of
the most spectacular scenery.
The main scenic path runs
through thick woodland and
wild­flower meadows and
round the sheer sides of a
gorge, past three waterfalls.
There are also optional trails to
distant mountain viewpoints.
William Makepeace Thackeray,
the 19th­century English
novelist, called the landscape
Glenariff Forest Park “Switzerland in miniature”.




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R Ardboe Old Cross
Off B73, 16 km (10 miles)
E of Cookstown.
P Wellbrook Beetling Mill
Off A505, 6.5 km (4 miles) W of Cooks-
town. Tel 028 8674 8210. Open mid-
Mar–Jun & Sep: Sat & Sun pm;
Jul–Aug: Thu–Sun pm. Closed Sep–
Mar. & ∑ nationaltrust.org.uk

e Beaghmore
Stone Circles
Road map D2. Co Tyrone. Off A505,
Stone circle and stone rows at Beaghmore 14 km (9 miles) NW of Cookstown.
w Cookstown Ardboe Old Cross stands on On a stretch of open moor land
the site of a 6th-century in the foothills of the Sperrin
Road map D2. Co Tyrone.
* 11,000. @ n Burnavon, Burn monastery. Although eroded, Mountains lies a vast collection
Road (028 8676 9949). ( Sat. the 10th-century cross is one of stone monuments, dating
∑ cookstown.gov.uk of the best examples of a High from between 2000 and 1200
Cross (see p246) in Ulster: its 22 BC. There are seven stone circles,
Cookstown sticks in the sculpted panels depict Old several stone rows and a number
memory for its grand central Testament scenes on the east of less prominent features,
thoroughfare – 2 km (1 mile) side and New Testament ones possibly collapsed field walls of
long and perfectly straight. on the west. The Wellbrook an earlier period. Their exact
The road is about 40 m Beetling Mill, west of purpose remains unknown,
(130 ft) wide and, as Cookstown, is a relic though in some cases their
you look to the of Ulster’s old linen alignment correlates with
north, it frames industry. “Beetling” movements of the sun, moon
the bulky outline was the process of and stars. Three of the rows, for
of Slieve Gallion, hammering the example, are clearly aligned with
a prominent cloth to give it a the point where the sun rises at
mountain in the Sperrin sheen. Set amid trees the summer solstice.
Mountains. A 17th- beside the Ballinderry River, The individual circle stones
century Plantation town the mill dates from 1768 are small – none is more than
(see pp42–3), Cookstown and is a popular tourist 1.20 m (4 ft) in height – but their
takes its name from its attraction. The National sheer numbers make them a
founder Alan Cook. Trust has restored the truly impressive sight. As well as
Ardboe old whitewashed two-storey the circles and rows, there are a
Environs Cross building and its water- dozen round cairns (burial
The countryside around wheel. Inside, working displays mounds). Up until 1945, the
Cookstown is rich in Neolithic demonstrate just how loud whole complex, one of Ulster’s
and early Christian monuments. “beetling” could be. From the major archaeological finds, had
To the east, on a desolate stretch mill, there are pleasant walks lain buried beneath a thick
of Lough Neagh shore line, the along the river banks. layer of peat.
Ulster’s Historic Linen Industry
The rise in Ulster’s importance as a linen material diminished in popularity was the
producer was spurred on by the arrival expensive production process: after
from France of refugee Huguenot cutting, the flax had to be retted,
weavers at the end of the 17th or soaked, in large artificial ponds
century. Linen remained a so that scutching – the
flourishing industry for a separation of the fibres –
further two centuries, but could begin. After combing,
today it is produced only the linen was spun and
in small quantities for the woven before being
luxury goods market. bleached in the sun,
Hundreds of abandoned typically in fields along
mills dot the former “Linen riverbanks. The final stage
Triangle” bounded by Belfast, was “beetling”, the process
Armagh and Dungannon. 18th-century print, showing flax being whereby the cloth was
One of the reasons why the prepared for spinning hammered to give it a sheen.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  273

r The Wilson t Ulster-American The farmhouse is based on one
Ancestral Home Folk Park built by Thomas Mellon and his
father in the early years of their
Road map C2. 28 Spout Road, Road map C2. Co Tyrone. life in America.
Dergalt, Strabane, Co Tyrone. Tel 028 8224 3292. @ from Omagh. The Centre for Migration
n Tel 028 7138 4444. Open Jul–Aug: Closed Mon & public hols. &
2–5pm Tue–Sun (guided tour only). 0 = 7 ∑ nmni.com/uafp Studies assists descendants of
emigrants to trace their family
Visits at other times by arrangement.
∑ strabanedc.com One of the best open-air roots. Popular American festivals
museums of its kind, the Folk such as Independence Day and
Located 3 km (2 miles) south- Park grew up around the Hallowe’en are cele brated here
east of Strabane, off the road restored boyhood home of and there is an Appalachian-
to Plumbridge, is the ancestral Judge Thomas Mellon (founder Bluegrass music festival in
home of US President Thomas of the Pittsburgh banking early September.
Woodrow Wilson (1856–1924). dynasty). The Park’s permanent
Woodrow’s grandfather, Judge exhibition, “Emigrants”, examines
James Wilson, left this house for why two million people left
America in 1807 at the age of Ulster for America during the
20. Today, a visit to the thatched 18th and 19th centuries. It also
whitewashed house on the shows what became of them,
slopes of the Sperrin Mountains with stories of both fortune and
provides valuable insight into failure, including the grim lives
the history behind Ulster-American of indentured servants and the
ties. The carefully conserved 15,000 Irish vagrants and
rooms contain original furniture convicts sent to North America
including curtained beds, kitchen in the mid-18th century.
utensils and farm implements. The park has more than
A portrait of James Wilson hangs 30 historic buildings, some of
over the traditional hearth fire. them original, some replicas.
There are settler homesteads
Environs (including that of John Joseph
Just outside the village of Hughes, the first Catholic Worker at the Belleek factory making a
Newtownstewart, 12 km Archbishop of New York), Parian ware figurine
(7 miles) south of Strabane, is churches, a schoolhouse and
the medieval ruin of Harry a forge, some with craft y Belleek Pottery
Avery’s Castle. This 14th-century displays, all with costumed Road map C2. Belleek, Co Fermanagh.
Gaelic stone castle consisted of interpretative guides. There’s Tel 028 6865 9300. @ Open Jan–Feb:
two storeys fronted by vast also an Ulster streetscape, a Mon–Fri; Mar–Dec: daily. Closed 1
rectangular twin towers. These reconstructed emigrant ship week at Christmas. 8 7 - =
towers are still visible today. and a Pennsylvania farmstead. ∑ belleek.com
The little border village of
Belleek would attract few
visitors other than anglers were
it not for the world-famous
Belleek Pottery, founded in
1857. The company’s pearly
coloured china is known as
Parian ware. Developed in the
19th century, it was supposed
to resemble the famous Parian
marble of Ancient Greece.
Belleek is now best known
for its ornamental pieces of
fragile latticework decorated
with pastel-coloured flowers.
These are especially popular
in the USA. Several elaborate
showpieces stand on display
in the visitors’ centre and
small museum. There’s also
a 20-minute audiovisual pres-
entation on the company’s
history, a gift shop and ample
Pennsylvania log farmhouse at the Ulster-American Folk Park parking space for tour buses.




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274  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION


u A Tour of Lower Lough Erne

Fermanagh lakelands around Lower Lough Erne boasts
a rich combination of both natu ral and historic sights.
From pre-Christian times, settlers sought the security
offered by the lough’s forests and inlets. Monasteries
were founded on several of its many islands in the
Middle Ages, and a ring of castles recalls the Plantation
era (see p43). The lake is a haven for waterbirds such as
ducks, grebes and kingfishers, and the trout-rich waters
attract many anglers. Lough Erne is a delight to explore
by land or by boat. In summer, ferries serve several Small craft on Lower Lough Erne
islands, and cruisers are available for hire. 5 Boa Island
Two curious double-faced figures
stand in Caldragh cemetery, a
Christian graveyard on Boa Island.
6 Castle Caldwell Forest While little is known about the stone
Castle Caldwell’s wooded idols, they are certainly pre-Christian.
7 Belleek peninsulas are a sanctuary for
Northern Ireland’s birds, and you can watch
most westerly village, waterfowl from hides on the B13
Belleek is famous for shore. You may see great crested A47
its pottery (see p273). grebes, the common scoter duck
Lusty Beg
and perhaps even otters.


Ballyshannon A47 L o w e r L o u g h E r n e
R230
Erne
Cliffs of Magho
A46 J



B52
A4
Sligo B81









Tips for Walkers
8 Lough Navar Forest Drive
An 11-km (7-mile) drive through Length: 110 km (68 miles).
pine forest leads to a viewpoint Stopping-off points: Outside
atop the Cliffs of Magho, with a Enniskillen, the best places to eat
magnificent panorama over Lough are the pubs in Kesh and Belleek; 9 Tully Castle
Erne and beyond. Trails weave in summer, a café opens in Castle A delightful 17th-century-
through the woods. Archdale Country Park. There are style herb garden has been
good picnic places all along the
route of this tour, including at planted and is maturing
Key well alongside this fortified
the Cliffs of Magho viewpoint
Tour route (see also pp365–7). Plantation house.
Other roads
For key to symbols see back flap


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NOR THERN IRELAND  275














4 White Island
The Romanesque church on White Island has bizarre pagan-looking
Small craft on Lower Lough Erne
figures set into one wall. Of uncertain origin, they probably adorned Beautifully constructed round tower
an earlier monastery on this site. Ferries to the island leave from
Castle Archdale Marina in summer. on Devenish Island
i Devenish Island
Road map C2. Co Fermanagh. n 028
6862 1588. 4 Devenish Ferry (077
A35
0205 2873) from Trory Point, 5 km
(3 miles) N of Enniskillen: Easter–Sep:
Omagh daily. & for museum and tower.
A47 Kesh B4 ∑ discovernorthernireland.com
St Molaise III, who had 1,500
Lusty Beg Boats moored at Castle Archdale Marina scholars under his tutelage,
founded a monastery on this
B72 3 Castle Archdale Country Park tiny windswept island in the
J
6th century. Though raided by
With a marina and caravan site, the
park is busy in summer. Trails through Vikings in the 9th century and
L o w e r L o u g h E r n e
the woods enable you to escape the burned in 1157, it remained an
crowds, and you may see red deer important religious centre up
and other animals. to the early 17th century.
Several fine buildings have
2 Devenish Island survived, including Teampall
Site of Lower Lough Erne’s Mor near the jetty. Built in
most important monastery, 1225, this church displays the
this island can be reached in transition between Roman-
A4 B82
summer by ferry or water-bus esque and Gothic styles. On
from Enniskillen. the highest ground stands
J
St Mary’s Priory, an Augustinian
B81
1 Enniskillen church that was erected in the
Dominated by its famous 15th century. An intricately
castle, Enniskillen (see p276) carved stone cross close by
is the main cruiser base on dates from the same period.
the Erne. It overlooks the The most spectacular sight,
river flowing between the however, is the 12th-century
upper and lower loughs. round tower, which stands
some 25 m (82 ft) tall. From the
high windows the monks could
spot approaching strangers. It
A32
Armagh is perfectly preserved, and the
five floors can be reached by
0 Monea Castle B80 internal ladders. Supporting the
Occupying a rocky bank roof is an elaborate cornice with
in a remote spot away A4 A4 a human face carved above
from the lake, this is a Sligo each of the four windows; this
well-preserved Plantation is a unique feature in an Irish
castle in Fermanagh. round tower. A small museum
Built around 1618, it has covers both the history and
striking barrel towers. 0 kilometres 4
0 miles 2 architecture of the island, and
contains a collection of anti-
quities discovered at the site.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5
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o Enniskillen
Road map C2. Co Fermanagh.
* 15,000. @ n Wellington Road
(028 6632 3110). ( Thu.
∑ fermanaghlakelands.com
The busy tourist centre of
Enniskillen occupies an island
between Upper and Lower
Lough Erne. The town gained
fame for the wrong reason in
1987, when 11 people died
in an IRA bomb attack, but it
deserves a visit for its setting
and sights.
At the west end of town
stands Enniskillen Castle,
dating from the 15th century. Enniskillen Castle seen from across the River Erne
It houses Fermanagh County
Museum and the Inniskilling + Enniskillen Castle pavilions at each end. The stone
Regimental Museum. Its most Tel 028 6632 5000. Open Jul & Aug: was shipped from Dorset to
stunning feature, however, is 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Sat–Mon; Ballyshannon. The first Earl of
the Watergate, a fairy-tale twin- Apr–Jun & Sep-Oct: 10am–5pm Belmore, who commis sioned
turreted tower, best admired Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Mon & Sat; Nov–Mar: the house in the 1790s, was
from the far bank of the river. 10am–5pm Tue–Fri, 2–5pm Mon. almost bank rupted by the cost
Further west, Portora Royal Closed 23 Dec–2 Jan. & = 7 of it. The original design was by
limited. ∑ enniskillencastle.co.uk
School, founded in 1618, counts Irish architect Richard John ston,
among its old boys the play- but the Earl then com missioned
wrights Oscar Wilde and Samuel Environs a second set of drawings by the
Beckett (see pp26–7). Just outside town, set in a park fashionable English architect
The Cole Monument stands with mature oak woodland James Wyatt. The extravagant
in a pretty Victorian park on overlooking a lake, is Castle Earl died, deep in debt, in 1802
the east side of town. It is a Coole, one of the finest Neo- and it was left to his son to
tall Doric column with a spiral Classical homes in Ireland. It has complete during the 1820s.
staircase that can be climbed for a long Portland stone façade, The glory of Castle Coole is
views of the lake country. with a central portico and small that almost all the house’s
ori ginal furniture is still in place.
Family portraits from the 18th
century line the walls of the
dining room. In the lavish State
Bedroom there is a bed made
specially for King George IV on
the occasion of his visit to
Ireland in 1821, though in the
end he never came here to
sleep in it. One of the finest
rooms is the oval saloon (or
ballroom) at the back of the
house. The furnishings may not
be to everyone’s taste, but the
spacious oak-floored room
produces a magnificent effect
of unostentatious luxury.

P Castle Coole
Off A4, 2.4 km (1.5 miles) SE of
Ennis killen. Tel 028 6632 2690.
House: Open mid-Mar–end May &
Sep: 11am–5pm Sat & Sun; Jun–Aug:
11am–5pm daily. Closed Sep–Mar.
& 8 mandatory for house. 7 =
- Park: Open Mar–Oct: 10am–7pm
daily; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm daily.
The saloon at Castle Coole, with original Regency furnishings ∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  277


p Marble Arch Caves
Global Geopark
Road map C2. Marlbank Scenic Loop,
Florencecourt, Co Fermanagh.
Tel 028 6634 8855. Open end Mar–
Jun & Sep–Oct: 10am–4:30pm, Jul–
Aug: 10am–5pm daily (phone first as
bad weather can cause closure). &
8 obligatory. 0 =
∑ marblearchcavesgeopark.com
The marble arch caves are cut by
three streams which flow down
the slopes of Cuilcagh Mountain,
unite underground and emerge
as the Cladagh River. Tours lasting
75 minutes consist of a boat ride
into the depths of the cave
complex and a guided walk that
leads past stalagmites, calcite
cas cades and other curious lime-
stone formations. The 9-m (30-ft)
“Marble Arch” itself stands Boat trip through Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark
outside the cave system in the
glen where the river gushes out Rococo plasterwork said to be s Dungannon
from below ground. by the Dublin stuccodore Road map D2. Co Tyrone. * 11,000.
The caves are very popular, Robert West. Sadly, however, @ n Ranfurly House, 26 Market Sq,
so book ahead. It is best to ring not much of what you see today Dungannon (028 8772 8600). ( Thu.
to check the local weather con- is original as most of the central ∑ flavouroftyrone.com
ditions before setting out; the block was seriously damaged by
caves may be closed because fire in 1955. Much of the furniture Dungannon’s hilly location
of rain. Whatever the weather, was lost, but the plasterwork made an ideal site for the seat
bring a sweater and sensible was painstakingly recreated of government of the O’Neill
walking shoes. from photographs. The finest dynasty from the 14th century
examples are in the dining room, until Plantation (see pp42–3),
the staircase and the small when their castle was razed.
a Florence Court Venetian room. The town’s Royal School is
Perhaps more spectacular one of the oldest in Northern
Road map C2. Co Fermanagh. Tel 028
6634 8249. House: Open times vary: than the mansion are the Ireland; it was chartered in
check National Trust website. grounds, which occupy a natural 1608 by James I. Opened in
& 8 obligatory. 7 - = mountain-ringed amphitheatre. 1614, it moved to its present
Grounds: Open daily. & for car park. There are many enjoyable site in 1789.
∑ nationaltrust.org.uk walks around the house. One Once a major linen centre,
woodland trail leads to the this busy market town was also
This three-storey Palladian famous Florence Court yew known for its glass-making, as it
mansion was built for the Cole tree, whose descen dants are was the base of the famous
family in the mid-18th century. to be found all over Ireland. Tyrone crystal factory. The
The arcades and pavilions, Closer to the house is a walled factory closed in 2010, however.
which are of a later date than garden where pink and white The Linen Green shopping
the main house, were added roses make an attractive sight centre in nearby Moygashel
around 1770 by William Cole, in summer. offers factory outlet shopping
first Earl of Enniskillen. The from brands such as Newbridge
house features flamboyant Silverware and Ulster Weavers.










Florence Court, the former seat of the Earls of Enniskillen




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was erected over a giant cairn.
The whole thing was then
burned and the remains
covered with soil. Archaeological
evidence indi cates that this was
not an act of war, but a solemn
ritual performed by the inhabit­
ants of Emain Macha themselves.
Below the fort, the grass­
roofed Navan Centre interprets
the site. It is open to groups
outside of the main summer
season. One unexpected exhibit
is the skull of a Barbary ape,
Armagh, dominated by St Patrick’s Roman Catholic Cathedral found in the remains of a Bronze
Age house. The animal must
d Armagh E Armagh County Museum come from Spain or North Africa,
The Mall East. Tel 028 3752 3070.
Road map D2. Co Armagh. * 15,000. Open Mon–Sat. Closed some public evidence that by 500 BC Emain
@ n 40 English St (028 3752 1800). hols. 8 by arrangement. Macha was already a place with
( Tue & Fri. ∑ armagh.co.uk ∑ nmni.com/acm far­flung trading links.
One of Ireland’s oldest cities, E Craftswirl E Navan Centre
Armagh dates back to the age 40 Upper English St. Tel 028 3752 On A28 4 km (2.5 miles) W of Armagh.
of St Patrick (see p285) and 1800. Open daily. ∑ armagh.co.uk/ Tel 028 3752 9644. Open daily. & 7
the advent of Christianity. The place/craftswirl
narrow streets in the city centre Y Observatory Grounds
follow the ditches that once College Hill. Tel 028 3752 3689. Open f Lough Neagh
ringed the church, founded by by appt only. Grounds: open Mon–Fri. Road map D2. Co Armagh, Co Tyrone,
the saint in 455. Two cathe drals, Planetarium: Tel 028 3752 3689. Open Co Londonderry, Co Antrim.
both called St Patrick’s, sit on varies; check website. & for shows.
opposing hills. The huge Roman - 7 ∑ armaghplanet.com Legend has it that the giant
Catholic one is a twin­spired Finn MacCool (see pp30–31)
Neo­Gothic building with Environs created Lough Neagh by picking
seemingly every inch To the west of up a piece of turf and hurling it
of wall covered Armagh stands into the Irish Sea, thus forming
in mosaic. The Navan Fort, a the Isle of Man in the process.
older Anglican large earthwork on At 400 sq km (153 sq miles), the
Cathedral dates the summit of a hill. In lake is the largest in Britain.
back to med ieval legend, Navan was Emain Bordered by sedgy marsh­
times. It boasts the Macha, ceremonial and land, it has few roads along its
bones of Brian Skull of Barbary ape from spiri tual capital of an ­ shore. The best rec reational
Ború, the King of Navan Fort cient Ulster, associated areas lie in the south: Oxford
Ireland who defeated the with tales of the warrior Island, actually a peninsula, has
Vikings in 1014 (see pp38–9), and Cúchulainn (see p30). The site walking trails, bird lookouts and
an 11th­century High Cross. may have been in use as much the informative Lough Neagh
Armagh’s gorgeous oval, tree­ as 4,000 years ago, but seems to Discovery Centre. In the south­
lined Mall, where cricket is have been most active around west corner, a narrow­gauge
played in summer, is surround­ 100 BC when a huge timber railway runs through the bogs
ed by dignified Georgian building, 40 m (130 ft) across, of Peatlands Park. Salmon and
buildings. One of these houses
the small Armagh County
Museum, which has a good
exhibition on local history. Off
the Mall, St Patrick’s Trian is a
heritage centre telling the story
of the city. It also has a “Land
of Lilliput” fantasy centre for
children, based on Gulliver’s
Travels by Jonathan Swift (see
p86). The Armagh Planetarium
is on College Hill in the
Observatory Grounds, from
where there are splendid views
over the city. Navan Fort, the site of Emain Macha, legendary capital of Ulster
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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Hide for bird-watchers at Oxford Island on the southern shore of Lough Neagh
trout swim in the rivers that flow h Carrickfergus changed hands several times
from Lough Neagh. The lake is Road map E2. Co Antrim. * 42,000. over the years. Under Edward
famous for its eels, with one of £ @ n Antrim St (028 9335 8049). Bruce, the Scots took it in 1315,
the world’s largest eel fisheries Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm, Oct–Mar: holding it for three years. James
at Toome. 10am–5pm. Closed Sun. ( Thu. II’s army was in control of the
∑ carrickfergus.org castle from 1688 until General
E Lough Neagh Schomberg took it for William III
Discovery Centre Carrickfergus grew up around in 1690. William himself stayed
Oxford Island. Exit 10 off M1. the massive castle begun in 1180 here before the Battle of the
Tel 028 3832 2205. Open daily. by John de Courcy to guard the Boyne (see p248) in 1690.
Closed 24–26 Dec. 8 7 0 = entrance to Belfast Lough. De De Courcy also founded the
∑ oxfordisland.com Courcy was the leader of the pretty St Nicholas’ Church. Inside
Y Peatlands Park Anglo-Norman force which are rare stained-glass work and
Exit 13 off M1. Tel 028 3885 1102. invaded Ulster following a “leper window”, through
Park: Open daily. Closed 24 & 25 Dec. Strongbow’s conquest of Leinster which the afflicted received the
Visitors’ centre: Open Apr–mid-Sep: in the south (see pp40–41). sacraments. Other attractions
1–7pm daily; Sep–Mar: noon–4pm Sat Carrickfergus Castle was include the Andrew Jackson
& Sun 7 ∑ doeni.gov.uk/niea shaped to fit the crag on which Centre, the ancestral home of the
it stands overlooking the seventh president of the USA, and
harbour. The finest and best- Flame, a museum based around
g Larne preserved Norman castle in a Victorian coal gasworks.
Ireland, it even has its original
Road map D1. Co Antrim. * 20,000. + Carrickfergus Castle
£ @ n Narrow Gauge Rd (028 portcullis (see pp40–41). Many
2826 0088). ∑ larne.gov.uk changes have been made since Tel 028 9335 1273. Open daily.
the 12th century, includ ing Closed 24–26 Dec, 1 Jan. & 8 7
Industrial Larne is the arrival wide ramparts to accom modate limited. = ∑ discovernorthern
point for ferries from Scotland the castle’s cannons. Life-size ireland.com
(see pp362–4). The town is not model soldiers are posed along E Andrew Jackson Centre
the finest introduction to Ulster the ramparts. In continuous 2 Boneybefore. Tel 028 9335 8049.
scenery, but it lies on the use up to 1928, the castle has Open by appt only.
threshold of the magnificent
Antrim coastline (see p271).
The sheltered waters of Larne
Lough have been a landing
point since Mesolithic times –
flint flakes found here provide
some of the earliest evidence of
human presence on the island –
nearly 9,000 years ago. Since
then, Norsemen used the lough
as a base in the 10th century,
Edward Bruce landed his Scottish
troops in the area in 1315, and in
1914 the Ulster Volunteer Force
landed a huge cache of German
arms here during its campaign
against Home Rule (see pp48–9). The massive Norman keep of Carrickfergus Castle




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280  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

j Belfast

Belfast was the only city in Ireland to experience
the full force of the Industrial Revolution. Its
ship-building, linen, rope-making and tobacco
industries caused the population to rise to almost
400,000 by the end of World War I. The “Troubles”
and the decline of heavy industry have somewhat
hampered economic life, but regeneration projects,
such as Laganside, the Titanic Quarter, Victoria Belfast International Airport
Square and the Cathedral Quarter, are breathing 29 km (18 miles)
Cave Hill
new life into run-down areas and Belfast remains a Mosaic in St Anne’s Cathedral, showing St UPPER LIBRARY ST BROUGHAM ST LARNE
friendly, handsome city. Patrick’s journey to Ireland (see p285) Y O R K S T R E E T M3
M IL L F I E L D D O N E GA LL S TREE T NELSON STREET
Smithfield
F Grand Opera House FRANCIS ST NORTH STREET E X C H A NGE STREET C O R P O R A T I O N S T R E E T
Market
Great Victoria St. Tel 028 9024 1919. C A S TLE ST R E E T St Anne's
∑ goh.co.uk Grand Opera COLLEGE SQ E ROYAL AVENUE Cathedral M 3
Designed by Frank Matcham, Great Victoria House Linen Hall
WA RI NG ST
GROSVENOR RD
the renowned theatre architect, Station Europa Library The H I G H S T Albert Memorial
Clock Tower
Bus Centre
this exuberant late Victorian Entries DONEGALL QUAY Lagan Titanic
building opened its doors in Saloon BEDFORD ST Belfast ANN S T Laganside Bridge Belfast
GREAT VICTORIA ST
City Hall
1894. The sumptuous interior, ARMAGH SANDY ROW Crown Liquor CHICHESTER ST Bus Centre W5
Queen
with its gilt, red plush and DUBLIN RO A D ALFRED ST MAY STREET V I C TO RI A ST Elizabeth Q UEENS ROAD
intri cate plasterwork, was SHAFTESBURY DON EG ALL PA SS O RM EA U AV E CROMAC ST O X FOR D S T R EET Queen's Bridge M3 S Y D E N H A M R OA D
St George's
SQUARE
Bridge
but it survives STRANMILLIS ROAD UNI V E RS I TY R OA D Central
restored to its full
Market
On occasions,
Station
B R ID GE E ND
Belfast City Airport
bombings of
5 km (3 miles)
Interior of the Grand Opera House glory in 1980. BOTANIC AVENUE Botanic EA S T BRI DGE ST Waterfront George Best
LAGANBANK RD
Queen's
Hall
Film Theatre
the adjacent
Queen's
P Belfast City Hall Europa Hotel University Station
Ulster
Donegall Square. Tel 028 9027 0456. disrupted Museum S H O R T S TRAND
8 call ahead for tour details. - business at Botanic ORMEAU R O A D Albert Bridge
Gardens
U NIV E R SI TY S TR EET
Most of Belfast’s main streets the theatre, NEWTONARDS
Stormont
radiate out from the hub of A GI N C O U R T AV E NUE L a g a n
Donegall Square. In the centre as a major
of the square stands the vast venue for plays STRANMILLIS EMB ANKME NT Giant's Ring
rectangular Portland stone and theatre. ORMEAU EMBAN KMENT
bulk of the 1906 City Hall. It has
an elaborate tower at each R St Anne’s Cathedral Key to Symbols see back flap
corner and a central copper dome Donegall St. Tel 028 9032 8332.
that rises to a height of 53 m ∑ belfastcathedral.org
(173 ft). Highlight of the tour Consecrated in 1904, this Sights at a Glance
of the interior is the Anglican cathedral took over 1 Grand Opera House
sumptuous oak-panelled 100 years to be completed. 2 Crown Liquor Saloon
council chamber. The impressive interior 3 Belfast City Hall
Statues around the includes mosaics exe-
building include a cuted by the two 4 Linen Hall Library
glum-looking Queen Misses Martin in the 5 The Entries
Victoria outside the 1930s. The one cover ing 6 St Anne’s Cathedral
main entrance and, the baptistry ceil ing 7 Queen’s University
on the east side, Sir contains over 150,000 8 Ulster Museum
Edward Harland, pieces. The wide nave 9 Botanic Gardens
founder of the is paved with Canadian 0 Albert Memorial Clock Tower
Harland and Wolff maple and the aisles q W5
shipyard, which with Irish marble. w Titanic Belfast
built the Titanic. Lord Carson (1854–
A memorial to 1935), leader of the
those who died campaign against
when the Titanic Home Rule (see p48), 0 metres 500
sank in 1912 Detail of Titanic Memorial is buried in the 0 yards 500
stands close by. outside Belfast City Hall south aisle.
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5
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P Linen Hall Library the oldest part of the city. They VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
17 Donegall Square North. Tel 028 feature some of the oldest pubs
9032 1707. Open Mon–Sat. - in the city, including White’s Practical Information
∑ linenhall.com Tavern (see p331). McCracken’s in Road map D2. Co Antrim. *
Founded as the Belfast Society Joy’s Entry and the Morning Star 500,000. n 9 Donegall Square
for Promoting Knowledge in on Pottinger’s Entry both serve North (028 9024 6609). ∑ visit-
1788, Belfast’s oldest library has excellent lunches. In 1791, the belfast.com _ Balmoral Show
thousands of rare, old books and United Irishmen, a radical (May) & Belfast City Carnival (Jun).
is Ireland’s last subscribing library. movement inspired by the Transport
It is renowned for its unparalleled new ideas of the French k George Best City Airport, 6.5
km (4 miles) E; Belfast Inter ­
Belfast International Airport
29 km (18 miles) national, 29 km (18 miles) NW.
Cave Hill £ Central Station, East Bridge St
UPPER LIBRARY ST BROUGHAM ST LARNE (028 9066 6630); Great Victoria St
Station (028 9066 6630).
M IL L F I E L D NORTH STREET D O N E GA LL S TREE T Y O R K S T R E E T M3 @ Europa Bus Centre, Great
NELSON STREET
Victoria St; Lagan side Bus Centre,
Smithfield
Oxford St (028 9066 6630).
Market
ROYAL AVENUE
COLLEGE SQ E C A S TLE ST R E E T Cathedral E X C H A NGE STREET C O R P O R A T I O N S T R E E T P Crown Liquor Saloon
FRANCIS ST
St Anne's
Grand Opera WA RI NG ST M 3
House Great Victoria St. Tel 028 9024 3187.
Great Victoria Linen Hall
GROSVENOR RD
Station Europa Library H I G H S T Albert Memorial Open daily. ∑ nationaltrust.gov.uk
DONEGALL QUAY
Bus Centre Entries Clock Tower Lagan Titanic Even teetotallers should make
The
SANDY ROW Crown Liquor BEDFORD ST Belfast CHICHESTER ST ANN S T Laganside Bridge W5 Belfast a detour to the tiled façade of
Saloon
City Hall
this Victorian drinking palace.
Bus Centre
ARMAGH GREAT VICTORIA ST MAY STREET V I C TO RI A ST Elizabeth The Crown, which dates back
ALFRED ST
Queen
DUBLIN RO A D
SHAFTESBURY DON EG ALL PA SS O RM EA U AV E CROMAC ST O X FOR D S T R EET Queen's Bridge M 3 S Y D E N H A M R OA D Q UEENS ROAD to the 1880s, is the most famous
St George's
SQUARE
BOTANIC AVENUE
Bridge
pub in Belfast; today, it is a
STRANMILLIS ROAD UNI V E RS I TY R OA D Station Central Albert Bridge Revolution, was founded in a landmark. The lovingly restored
Market
Grade A building and treasured
Botanic
George Best
B R ID GE E ND
Belfast City Airport
interior features stained glass,
5 km (3 miles)
Waterfront
Queen's
LAGANBANK RD

Hall
Film Theatre
S H O R T S TRAND
marbling, mosaics and a
Queen's
ORMEAU R O A D
EA S T BRI DGE ST
splendid ceiling with scrolled
University
Station
Ulster
plasterwork. The wooden snugs
Museum
Botanic
facing the bar have their original
Gardens
U NIV E R SI TY S TR EET
tavern on Crown Entry. Its most
Stormont
gas lamps: the perfect place for
L a g a n
Tone (see pp44–5).
Strangford Lough mussels.
A GI N C O U R T AV E N UE
STRANMILLIS EMB ANKME NT Giant's Ring ORMEAU EMBAN KMENT NEWTONARDS famous member was Wolfe a pint of Guinness and some
Irish and Local Studies Collection,
ranging from comprehensive
holdings of printed books to the
250,000 items in the Northern
Ireland Political Collection, the
defini tive archive of the recent
troubles. There is also a vast
database of genea logical infor­
mation as well as regular exhibi­
tions. Above the library door
you will see the Red Hand of
Ulster, the emblem of the pro­
vince. It is the subject of a gory
legend about two Celtic heroes
racing to see who would touch
the land of Ulster first. In his
determi nation to win, one cut
off his own hand and threw it to
the shore.
P The Entries
The Entries are a series of narrow
alleys just off High Street, dating
from at least 1630 and marking The ornate Victorian interior of the Crown Liquor Saloon
280-281_EW_Ireland.indd 281 25/04/16 11:03 am

282  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

Exploring Belfast

Away from the city centre, Belfast has many pleasant
suburbs to explore. The Queen’s Quarter around Queen’s
University to the south of the city has two major attractions
in the Ulster Museum and the Botanic Gardens. To the north,
there are splendid views to be enjoyed from the heights of
Cave Hill, while visitors interested in Belfast’s industrial
heritage will be keen to visit the Titanic Quarter, the old docks
and the Harland and Wolff working shipyards.

Interior of the Victorian Palm House at
E Ulster Museum mummy. In addition to its perm- the Botanic Gardens
Botanic Gardens. Tel 0845 608 0000. anent collection, the museum
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun & bank hols has a changing programme of and cast-iron work. The Tropical
on Mon. 7 - = ∑ nmni.com/um temporary exhib itions and events, Ravine, or Fernery, is another fine
Founded in 1929 as the Belfast several learning zones and plenty piece of Victorian garden archi-
Municipal Museum and Art of opportunities for hands-on tecture. Visitors can look down
Gallery, the Ulster Museum activities, including interactive from the balcony to a sunken
reopened in 2009 following a areas where visitors can try on glen of exotic plants.
£17 million refurbishment. Its Victorian costumes and handle
galleries house rich collections the skull of a two-headed calf. P Queen’s University
of art, local history, natural University Rd. Tel 028 9024 5133
sciences and archaeology. Y Botanic Gardens 8 7= ∑ qub.ac.uk
Modern Irish art is particularly Botanic Ave. Tel 028 9032 4902. A 15-minute stroll south from
well represented, while the 6 m- Open daily. ∑ belfastcity.gov.uk Donegall Square, through the
(20 ft-) long Edmontosaurus dino- Backing on to the university, the lively entertainment district
saur skeleton in the Window On Botanic Gardens provide a quiet known as the Golden Mile, leads
Our World display tower is one refuge from the bustle of campus. to Northern Ireland’s most
of Ulster’s most popular exhibits The 1839 Palm House is a superb prestigious university. The main
along with Takabuti, the Egyptian example of curvilinear glass building, designed by Charles
Lanyon in 1849, bears similarities
to Magdalene College, Oxford.
A towered gateway leads to a
colonnaded quadrangle.
E W5
Odyssey, 2 Queen’s Quay. Tel 028 9046
7700. Open daily (Sun: pm only). &
∑ w5online.co.uk
W5, short for “whowhatwhere
whenwhy”, is an award-winning
interactive museum, which
presents science as an exciting
Large-scale metal sculpture outside the Ulster Museum process of discovery.
The Political Murals of West Belfast
During the period of the “Troubles” (1968–1998), popular art played a
conspicuous role in pro claiming the loyalties of Belfast’s two most intransigent
working-class communities, on the Protestant Shankill Road and the Catholic
Falls Road. The gable walls of dozens of houses in these areas
have been decorated with vivid murals expressing local
political and paramilitary affiliations. Likewise,
kerbstones on certain streets are painted either
in the red, white and blue of the United
Kingdom or the green, white and gold of Ireland.
Even with the successes of the
current peace process, many are
Republican mural in the Falls Road
likely to remain. Some tourists
make the journey out to West Belfast just to see the murals. The
simplest way to do this is to pre-book a “Black Cab Tour” through
the Belfast Welcome Centre. Call 028 9024 6609. Protestant Loyalist mural
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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It has over 200 hands-on exhibits
and experiments. Among many
fascinating activities on offer,
visitors can try working a replica
of a Port of Belfast crane,
sneak up on a butterfly, lift
them selves up with pulleys,
create an animated film or
compose music on a laser harp.
P Titanic Quarter
Queen’s Road, Queen’s Island. Tel 028
9076 6300. Titanic Belfast: Tel 028
9076 6386. Open Apr, Jun–Aug: 9am–
7pm daily; May & Sep: 9am–6pm daily; The Titanic Belfast, located in the Titanic Quarter
Oct–Mar: 10am–5pm daily.
Closed 24–26 Dec. & 8 = 0 the river, stands the Custom T Giant’s Ring
∑ titanicbelfast.com
House (1854) by Charles Lanyon, Off B23, 5 km (3 miles) S of city centre.
The doomed RMS Titanic, struck architect of Queen’s University. Little is known about this awe-
by an iceberg on its maiden inspiring prehistoric enclosure
voyage in 1912, was built in } Cave Hill almost 200 m (660 ft) in diameter.
Belfast’s docklands, and this Antrim Rd, 6.5 km (4 miles) N of city. It is surrounded by a grassy bank
area is now called the Titanic Belfast Castle Tel 028 9077 6925. averaging almost 6 m (20 ft)
Quarter. The waterfront is being Open daily. Closed 25 Dec. 7 0 in width and 4.5 m (15 ft) in
redevel oped, and space has = ∑ belfastcity.gov.uk height. Bones from a Stone Age
been created for shops, Belfast Zoo: Tel 028 9077 6277. burial were found under the
restaurants, hotels and offices. Open daily. Closed 25 & 26 Dec. & dolmen in the centre. During
Titanic Belfast, a tourist 7 = ∑ belfastzoo.co.uk the 18th century the ring was a
attraction which opened in 2012 It was on Cave Hill, next to popular venue for horse races.
to mark the centenary of the MacArt’s Fort (named after an
fateful voyage, now sits above Iron Age chieftain), that Wolfe P Stormont
the ship’s slipway. Boat, bus and Tone (see p45) and the north- Newtownards Rd, 8 km (5 miles) SE of
walking tours, led by a descendant ern leaders of the United city centre. Closed to the public.
of one of the crew members, Irishmen met in 1795 to 8 by arrangement only.
explore this vibrant area. pledge themselves to rebell- Built between 1928 and 1932, at
Inside the centre, there are ion. The five artificial caves a cost of £1,250,000, Stormont
nine galleries with interactive near the fort were carved out was designed to house the
exhibits that guide visitors during the Neolithic period. Northern Ireland Parliament.
through the construction of On the wooded eastern The huge Anglo-Palladian mass
the Titanic and its recovery. slopes of the hill stands the of Portland stone and Mourne
There is also an underwater baronial pile of Belfast Castle, granite stands at the end of a
explor a tion theatre. The built in 1870. Previously home majestic avenue, 1.6 km (1 mile)
restored SS Nomadic, the last to the Earl of Shaftesbury, the long, bordered by parkland. A
remaining vessel of the White castle now belongs to the city statue of Lord Carson (see p48)
Star Line, is also worth a visit. and houses a restaurant and a stands near the front entrance.
The Visitor’s Centre at the visitors’ centre that interprets Since the parliament was dis-
Edwardian pump house next the area’s history. A little banded in 1972, the building
to the Titanic dry dock is an further along the road past has been used as government
excellent way to get a sense the castle is Belfast Zoo. The offices. Although it has been
of the maritime history that zoo is home to over 1,200 suspended on several occa-
stretches back to the 1600s; the animals and 140 species, sions, the devolved Northern
restaurant and café here make including African wild dogs Ireland Assembly has sat here
for a good pit stop. Elsewhere and Barbary lions. since the 1998 Agreement.
in the Quarter, visitors can trace
their roots at the Public Record
Office of Northern Ireland.
P Albert Memorial
Clock Tower
Queen’s Square.
One of Belfast’s best-known
monuments, today the clock
tower leans slightly as a result
of subsidence. Beyond it, facing Stormont in its parkland setting outside Belfast




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284  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

k Ulster Folk and
Transport Museum
Road map E2. Cultra, near Holywood,
Co Down. Tel 028 9042 8428. £
@ Open Tue–Sun & bank hols on
Mon. Closed Christmas period.
& free for the disabled. 7 - =
∑ nmni.com/uftm
This museum was set up
following an act of parliament
in 1958, to show the life and
traditions of people in Northern
Ireland. Demonstrations of
traditional crafts, industries and
farming methods are given.
The A2 road splits the folk
museum from the transport
section. This is dominated by a
hangar that houses the Irish
Railway Collection. The small er
Transport Gallery exhibits mach­
inery made in Ulster, including a
saloon carriage from the tram
service that ran from Portrush to
Giant’s Causeway (see pp266–7).
Of particular note is a test model
of the unsuccess ful De Lorean Scrabo Tower, a prominent landmark of the Ards Peninsula
car, made in Northern Ireland in
the early 1980s with a huge departure of the last human P Ballycopeland Windmill
On B172 1.6 km (1 mile) W of Millisle.
gov ernment subsidy. There’s residents in the 1940s. The Tel 028 9181 1491. Open Jul–Aug:
also a popular exhibit on another Ballycopeland Windmill (1784) 10am–5pm daily. & 7 limited.
ill­fated construction – the Titanic. is Northern Ireland’s only working
It’s best to allow half a day to windmill and stands on the top P Scrabo Country Park
take in most of the attractions. of a small hill a little further Near Newtownards. Tel 028 918 1491.
south, near the town of Millisle. Open daily. Tower: Open Apr–May,
Just across the peninsula Oct & Mar: weekends; Jun–Sep: daily;
is Newtownards. On a hill Nov–Feb: Sun.
above the town is the R Grey Abbey
pleasant, shady Scrabo Greyabbey. Tel 028 9181 1491.
Country Park. In the Open varies, call ahead. 7
park stands the Scrabo O Exploris
Tower, built in 1857 as a Castle Street, Portaferry.
memorial to the third Tel 028 4272 8062. Open daily.
1883 tram carriage at the Ulster Folk and Marquess of Londonderry. Closed 24–26 Dec. & 7 -
Transport Museum Past the grounds of Mount ∑ exploris.org.uk
Stewart House (see pp286–7) is
the hamlet of Greyabbey, with
l Ards Peninsula its antique shops and Cis tercian
abbey ruins. Founded in 1193,
Road map E2. Co Down.
£ @ to Bangor. Grey Abbey was used as a parish
n Newtownards (028 9182 6846). church until the 17th century.
∑ ards-council.gov.uk Idylically set in lush meadows by
a stream, some of its features, in
The peninsula – and some of particular the finely carved west
Northern Ireland’s finest scenery doorway, are well preserved.
– begins east of Belfast at On the tip of the peninsula,
Bangor. This resort town has a Portaferry overlooks the
modern marina and some well­ Strangford Narrows across from
known yacht clubs. A little way the Lecale Peninsula (see p288).
south is Donaghadee, from Portaferry’s large aquarium,
where boats sail to the three Exploris, displays the diversity
Copeland Islands, inhabited of life in the Irish Sea and Ballycopeland Windmill, which dates
only by sea birds since the Strangford Lough. back to 1784
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  285

z Mount Stewart
House
See pp286–7.

x Hillsborough
Road map D2. Co Down. * 4,000.
@ n The Square (028 9268 9717).
∑ discovernorthernireland.com
Dotted with craft shops and
restaurants, this Georgian town
lies less than 16 km (10 miles)
from Belfast. Hillsborough
Castle, with its wrought­iron Terraced houses in the town of Hillsborough
gates and coat of arms, is where
visiting dignitaries to Northern E Down County Museum The nearby hill of Slieve
English Street, The Mall. Tel 028 4461
Ireland normally stay. 5218. Open daily. Closed Christmas; Patrick is an important place
Across from the 18th­century Sat & Sun am. 7 - = 8 of pilgrimage and has a
Market House in the town ∑ downcountymuseum.com granite figure of the saint
square is Hillsborough Fort. at its summit.
An artillery fort dating from Environs Not far from the banks
1650, it was remodelled in the There are several sights linked of the River Quoile is the
18th century for feasts held by to St Patrick on the outskirts Cistercian Inch Abbey,
the descendants of Arthur Hill, of Downpatrick. Struell Wells, founded by John de Courcy
founder of the town. believed to be a former in about 1180. Its attractive
pagan place of worship that marshland setting is more
+ Hillsborough Castle the saint blessed, has a ruined memorable than its remains,
Tel 028 9268 9406. Open Apr–Sep: church and 17th­century but it’s worth a visit.
10:30am–5pm daily. 8 bathhouses. Further out and to
+ Hillsborough Fort the north at Saul, near where R Inch Abbey
Access from town square or car park St Patrick landed and began his 5 km (3 miles) NW of Downpatrick.
at Forest Park. Tel 028 9054 3030. Irish mission in 432, is a small Tel 028 9181 1491. Open daily.
Closed Mon. 8 by arrangement. memorial church. ∑ doeni.gov.uk/niea
∑ visitlisburn.com
The Life of St Patrick
c Downpatrick
Little hard information is known about
Road map E2. Co Down. * 19,000. St Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland,
@ n 53a Market St (028 4461 2233). but he was probably not the first
Open Sep–Jun: Mon–Sat; Jul–Aug: missionary to visit the country – a
daily (Sun pm only). ( Sat. certain Palladius was sent by Pope
Celestine in 431. Most stories tell
Were it not for its strong links that Patrick was kidnapped from
with St Patrick, Downpatrick Britain by pirates and brought to
would attract few visitors. The Ireland to tend sheep. From here he
Anglican Down Cathedral, high escaped to France to study
on the Hill of Down, dates in its Christianity. In 432, he sailed back
present form from the early to Ireland and in Saul, County Down,
19th century – previous incar­ he quickly converted the local
nations have been razed. In the chieftain. He then travelled
churchyard is a well­worn 10th­ throughout the island
century cross and the reputed convincing many other
burial place of St Patrick, marked Celtic tribes of the
by a 20th­century granite slab truth of the new
religion. The fact
with the inscription “Patric”. that Ireland has
Down County Museum, which no snakes is
is housed in the 18th­century explained by
Old County Gaol, features a legend that
refurbished cells and exhibits St Patrick drove
relating to St Patrick, while close them all into 19th-century engraving showing St Patrick banishing
by is the Mound of Down, a the sea. all snakes from Ireland
large Norman motte and bailey.




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286  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION

z Mount Stewart House

This grand 19th-century house has a splendid interior, and the magnificent gardens are the
main attraction. These were planted only in the 1920s, but the exotic plants and trees have
thrived in the area’s subtropical microclimate. Now owned by the National Trust, Mount
Stewart used to belong to the Londonderry family, the most famous of whom was Lord
Castlereagh, British Foreign Secretary from 1812 until his death in 1822. The house and its
treasures have benefited from a major restoration project by the National Trust.















. Shamrock Garden
A yew hedge in the shape
of a shamrock encloses this
topiary Irish harp and a striking
flower- bed designed in the form
of a red hand, emblem of Ulster.














Italian Garden
The flowers in the Italian Garden, the largest of the
formal gardens, are planted so that strong oranges
and reds on the east side contrast with the softer
pinks, whites and blues on the west. Statues depict
the story of Homer’s Odyssey.

KEY
1 The Spanish Garden is 5 The Music Room has a beautiful
framed by a neat arcade of clipped inlaid floor of mahogany and oak.
cypress trees.
6 The Dining Room contains
2 Fountain 22 chairs used at the Congress of
3 The Sunk Garden comprises Vienna (1815) and was given to
symmetrical beds which in summer Lord Castlereagh in recognition of
are full of rich blue, yellow and his role in the talks.
orange flowers, complemented 7 The Chapel, converted from a
by purple foliage. sitting room in 1884, is still used by
4 Stone pergola the Londonderry family.

For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  287


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Road map E2. 3 km (2 miles) N of
Greyabbey, Co Down. Tel 028
4278 8387. ∑ nationaltrust.org
House: Open Mar–Oct: 11am–
5pm daily; Nov–Feb: 11am–3pm
Sat & Sun. Temple: Closed for
renovation. Gardens and Lake:
Open all year. & ^ in house.
7 8 0 =
. Hambletonian by George Stubbs
This picture of the celebrated racehorse at Newmarket, painted in Transport
1799, hangs halfway up the main staircase. @ from Belfast.

Entrance Entrance Hall
The most austere room in
the house, this hall features
Ionic stone pillars which have
been painted to resemble
green marble. It is lit by
an impressive
glass dome.









The Temple of the Winds
This banqueting pavilion offers
fantastic views over Strangford
Lough and the Mourne
Mountains beyond. It was built in
1785 by James “Athenian” Stuart,
a renowned pioneer of Neo-
Classical architecture, who took
his inspiration from the Tower of
the Winds in Athens. Restored in
the 1960s, the building’s finest
features are the spiral staircase
and the upper room’s plasterwork
ceiling and exquisite inlaid floor.










. Dodo Terrace
The stone dodos and ark on this
terrace relate to the Ark Club, a
social circle set up by Lady
Londonderry in London during
World War I. Each member was
given an animal nickname.




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288  IRELAND REGION B Y REGION


dwarf conifer beds and a
rhododendron wood.
Elsewhere in the park are a
19th-century Scottish baronial-
style castle (now a conference
centre), a lake and pleasant
woodlands; these are at their
most colourful in autumn.

n Mountains
of Mourne
Road map D2. Co Down. £ to
Newry. @ to Newcastle. n 10–14
Central Promenade, Newcastle (028
4372 2222). ∑ downdc.gov.uk
These mountains occupy just a
small corner of County Down,
Lady Bangor’s Gothic boudoir in Castle Ward on the Lecale Peninsula with no more than a dozen
peaks surpassing 600 m
v Lecale Peninsula Ardglass, offers a sweeping (2,000 ft), and yet they attract
panorama over Dundrum Bay. thousands of visitors each year.
Road map E2 Co Down. @ to
Ardglass. n Downpatrick (028 4461 P Castle Ward Only one road of any size, the
2233). ∑ discovernorthern B27 between Kilkeel and
ireland.com On A25, 2.5 km (1.5 miles) W of Hilltown, crosses the Mournes,
Strangford. Tel 028 4488 1204. making this ideal territory for
A good way to get to this part House: Open Easter, Jul & Aug: noon– walkers. A popular but tough
of County Down is to take a 5pm daily; Apr–Jun: noon–5pm Wed– trail runs from Newcastle, the
car ferry from Portaferry on the Sun; Sep & Oct: noon–5pm weekends. main gateway to the area, up to
& 7 - = Grounds: Open Oct–
Ards Peninsula to Strangford. the peak of Slieve Donard: at
Just outside this tiny port is Mar: 10am–4pm daily; Apr–Sep: 10am– 848 m (2,781 ft), this is the
8pm daily. ∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
Castle Ward, the estate of Lord highest mountain in the range.
and Lady Bangor, who seemed Part of the route follows the
to argue about everything – b Castlewellan Mourne Wall, which was
including the design of their erected in 1904–22 to enclose
18th-century mansion. His Forest Park the catchment area of the two
choice, Palladian, can be seen Road map D2. Main St, Castlewellan, reservoirs in the Silent Valley.
at the front, while her favourite Co Down. Tel 028 4377 8664. Open Over 20 short hikes are to
Gothic style influences the 10am–sunset daily. & for car park. be enjoyed in the area. These
garden façade. Likewise, range from easy strolls around
interiors are a mix of Classical The outstanding feature of Rostrevor Forest to rather more
and Gothic fantasy. Look out for Castlewellan Forest Park, in arduous treks up Slieve Muck
Lady Bangor’s cluttered boudoir, the foothills of the Mourne and other Mourne peaks.
with its extravagant fan-vaulted Mountains, is its magnificent Tourist information centres
ceiling based on Henry VIII’s arboretum. This has grown far will have details.
chapel in Westminster Abbey. beyond the original walled Some 35 km (22 miles) north
Around the grounds are trails, garden, begun in 1740, and of Newcastle, the Legananny
gardens, play areas and a farm- now comprises hothouses, Dolmen (see p36) is one of the
yard with a working corn mill. finest and most photo graphed
About 4 km (2.5 miles) south ancient sites in the country.
of Strangford, the A2 passes
Kilclief Castle, dating from
the 15th century, one of the
oldest tower houses (see p24)
in Ireland. The road continues
to Ardglass, now a small fishing
village but once Ulster’s
busiest harbour. A cluster of
castles was erected between
the 14th and 16th centuries to
protect the port, of which six
remain. St John’s Point, 6 km
(3.5 miles) southwest of Rounded peaks of the Mountains of Mourne
For hotels and restaurants in this region see pp302–3 and pp323–5


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NOR THERN IRELAND  289


m A Tour of the Mourne Coast

Newcastle, where, in the words of the 19th-century
songwriter Percy French, “the Mountains of Mourne sweep
down to the sea”, makes a good base from which to explore
this area. Driving up and down the dipping roads of the
Mournes is one of the highlights of a trip to Northern Ireland.
Along the coast, the Mourne Coastal Route drive skirts
between the foothills and the Irish Sea, providing lovely views
and linking a variety of fishing villages and historic castles.
Heading inland, you pass through an emptier landscape of 2 Dundrum
The town is overlooked by
moorland, purple with heather. The Silent Valley, with a the ruins of a Norman castle,
visitors’ centre and well-marked paths, is one of the areas and from the nearby bay you
that have been developed especially for tourists. can see the mountains rising
in the distance.
3 Tollymore Forest Park Belfast
This attractive park is dotted with follies like the Gothic
Gate that formed part of the original 18th-century estate.
4 Spelga Dam
There are stunning views north from the
Spelga Dam over the Mourne foothills. B180
1 Newcastle
A popular resort
since the early
B27 19th century,
Slieve Newcastle
J Donard has a
B25
Slieve J A2 promenade
Muck overlooking
M O U N T A I N S O F M O U R N E sandy beach.
a sweeping,
Rostrevor with Slieve
Martin behind Annalong
Newry Slieve B27 J
Martin
5 Rostrevor J A2
This tranquil A2
and leafy Victorian Kilkeel
resort nestles C a r l i n g f o r d L o u g h
below the peak
of Slieve Martin,
on the shores of
J
Carling ford Lough.
Tips for Drivers 6 Green Castle
Erected in the 13th 7 Silent Valley
Length: 85 km (53 miles). century, Green Castle lies The valley is closed to traffic, but
Stopping-off points: Newcastle at the end of a single you can walk to the top of Ben
has the biggest choice of pubs track road on a rocky Crom Mountain from the car
and restaurants. Dundrum, outcrop at the entrance park, or in summer go by bus.
Annalong, Kilkeel and Rostrevor to Carlingford Lough.
all have pubs, and a café opens in Key
the Silent Valley in summer. The
Spelga Dam and Tollymore Forest Tour route
Park are good picnic spots (see 0 kilometres 5 Other roads
also pp365–7). Viewpoint
0 miles 3





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TRAVELLERS’


NEEDS





Where to Stay 292–303

Where to Eat and Drink 304–331
Shopping in Ireland 332–337
Entertainment in Ireland 338–347

















































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292  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Whether you are staying in exclusive luxury working farm. For the hardier visitor there are
or modest self-catering accommodation, you good hostels, trailer and camping sites, or even
can be sure of a warm welcome. The Irish are horse-drawn caravans. Details are given here
renowned for their friendliness. Even in big of the types of accommodation available,
corporate hotels, where you might expect the tourist board ratings and the choices for house
reception to be more impersonal, the staff go or apartment rental. The listings on pages 296–
out of their way to be hospitable. The choice 303 recommend hotels around the country,
is enormous: you can stay in an 18th-century ranging from simple bed-and-breakfast to
country house, a luxurious (or slightly run- luxury accommodation. Fáilte Ireland (the Irish
down) castle, a Victorian town house, a Tourist Board) and the Northern Ireland Tourist
commercial hotel, a cosy village inn, or on a Board both publish comprehensive guides.

Prices reflect the type of house
and standard of accommodation,
but all offer excellent value and
an experience of an old world
grandeur that forms one aspect
of Irish life and history.
There are many other private
residences that also take paying
guests, some of which include
luxury spas. Ireland’s Blue Book
(Irelands-blue-book.ie) provides
information on these homes,
and reservations can be made
through their website.
Luxurious spa at the Hayfield Manor Hotel, Cork (see p298)
Guesthouses
Hotels
The shamrock symbols of both Most guesthouses are found in
At the top of the price range the Northern Ireland Tourist cities and large towns. They are
there are a handful of expen- Board and Fáilte Ireland are usually converted family homes
sive, luxury hotels in castles displayed by hotels (and other and have an atmosphere all of
and stately country houses. forms of accommodation) their own. Most offer a good-
Magnificently furnished and that have been inspected and value evening meal and all
run, they offer maximum officially approved. provide a delicious full Irish
comfort, delicious food and a breakfast (see p306). Top-of-the-
wide range of sports facilities – Country House range guesthouses can be just
either owned by the hotel or as good, and sometimes even
available close by. Salmon Accommodation better, than hotels. Visitors will
fishing, fox-hunting and Visitors wishing to stay in a see a much more personal side
shooting can be arranged period country home and of a town or city while staying at
as well as riding, golf, sailing sample authentic Irish country
and cycling. life can contact a specialist
For those looking for a full organization called Hidden
range of indoor facilities, such Ireland. However, this type of
as a gym, sauna and pool, the accommodation may not suit
modern hotel chains will best everybody, as the houses are
cater to these needs. The Doyle not guesthouses or hotels, but
Collection and Carlton Hotel something quite different.
Group offer this standard of Visitors should not expect
accommodation in the modern hotel-style facilities and
Republic, as does Hastings services. Instead the experience
Hotels in Northern Ireland. is an intimate one; guests dine
Coastal resort hotels usually together with their hosts as if at
offer a range of sports activities a private dinner party. Many of
or can advise you on the best the houses have been in the
places to go. In smaller towns, same family for hundreds of
the main hotel is often the years and the stories attached The entrance to the Shelbourne Dublin
social centre of the area. to them can be fascinating. (see p296)
Powerscourt Hotel Resort & Spa, Powerscourt, County Wicklow (see p297)



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WHERE T O ST A Y  293


south and west usually provide
more choice as these areas
have traditionally attracted the
majority of tourists. Fáilte
Ireland has a small section in
its accommodation guide,
but local tourist offices can
provide area-specific lists.
Accommodation can range
from quaint, stone cottages
and converted barns to more
modern, purpose-built
bungalows. All will generally
have adequate facilities, with
simple but comfortable
furnishings, modern kitchen
equipment and televisions.
The properties available
through Rent An Irish Cottage
are built in traditional style
with whitewashed walls and
painted roofs and windows;
The Drawing Room at the Merrion, Dublin (see p296) the decor is also traditional,
simple and attractive. Locations
Farmhouses
a guesthouse. For those seeking are generally superb; the only
anonymity, however, a guest- Farmhouse holidays are a possible criticism is for those
house may not be suitable – popular tradition in Ireland. Irish that want to be “away from
both the proprietor and fellow Farmhouse Holidays has a list it all”, they are built in clusters
guests are likely to try to draw of farmhouses in the Republic of about ten.
you into conversation. that take paying guests. Stays At the other end of the scale,
There are plenty of good can range from one night to visitors can rent a castle or
guesthouses to choose from longer and they make a superb country house, furnished with
in the Dublin area and the base for touring the countryside. paintings and antiques. In some
prices are usually reasonable. As with most things in Ireland, it cases, the properties are fully
The Irish Hotels Federation is the hospitality and friendliness staffed. Elegant Ireland has a
website has over 600 hotels of the people that makes staying selection of such properties.
and guesthouses covering the on a farm so memorable. Visitors Irish Landmark Trust has a
whole of Ireland and bookings get a feel of rural Ireland with its range of stunning accommo-
can be made directly through rich agricultural heritage, and dation in castles, lighthouses
the site. The Northern Ireland the families are determined that and gate lodges. The popularity
Tourist Board ‘s website their guests will enjoy every of Airbnb, which allows owners
(discovernorthernireland.com) moment of their stay. to rent out their properties
also has a comprehensive list directly, is growing rapidly in
of approved accommodation House and Ireland. The thousands of
options and a booking engine. options available range from
Apartment Rentals
rooms in sleek city-centre
Rental houses are increasingly apartments (or the entire place)
Bed-and-Breakfast popular and there are properties to treehouses, castles and
Accommodation to rent all over the country. The converted churches.
Ireland has the reputation for
the best B&Bs in Europe. You
will never be far from a place
to stay, even in the remotest
spots. There will always be a
friendly welcome, and excellent
food and company. Even if
the house is no architectural
beauty, the comfort and
atmosphere will more than
compensate. The Ireland Bed
and Breakfast Network
and B&B Ireland provide
details of accommodation
throughout Ireland. Warm tones at the boutique guesthouse Number 31 in Dublin (see p296)




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294  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


Irish Youth Hostel Association), the season. Prices are also
set in some wonderfully scenic influenced by their proximity
areas in buildings ranging from to tourist sights and public
castles to military barracks. transport. For those on a
Accommodation is generally tight budget, farmhouse
provided in simple dormitories accommodation represents
with comfortable beds and excellent value, though the
basic cooking facilities. There cheapest option is self-catering
are discounts for members in a rented cottage (see p293).
of An Óige or of organizations
affiliated to the International
Youth Hostel Federation. Tipping
Charges vary according to the Tipping is not a common
standard of accommodation, practice in Ireland, even at the
location and season. Northern larger hotels. Tasks performed
A traditional painted horse- Ireland is covered by the by staff are considered part of
drawn caravan Hostelling International the service. Tipping is not
Northern Ireland (HINI), which expected, for example, for
Camping, Trailers and has three registered hostels. carrying batandard tip is around
Motor Homes
Independent Holiday Hostels 10 per cent and anything over
A list of Fáilte Ireland approved of Ireland publishes a guide to 15 per cent of the bill would be
camping and trailer parks can be a host of independent hostels, considered generous.
found at camping-ireland.ie. and places such as universities
Many campsites and parks offer offer similar inexpensive Booking
additional facilities such as a accommodation. Tourist boards
shop, restaurant, games room, have recommendations, or It is wise to reserve your
laundry, tennis court and mini- check booking websites such accommodation during the peak
golf. The standard and condition as www.hostelworld.com season and public holidays (see
of these facilities will vary but p55), particularly if your visit
you can be reliably guided by Prices coincides with a local festival or
the tourist board’s star ratings: major sporting event (see pp32–
four-star graded parks have an Room rates advertised in 3). Fáilte Ireland can offer advice
extensive range of facilities with both Northern Ireland and the and make reservations through
a high standard of management Republic are inclusive of tax and its nationwide accommodation
and there’s a descending scale service. In general, prices in the service; the Northern Ireland
to one-star parks, which have the Republic are on a par with the Tourist Board runs a similar
minimum facilities required for North. Hotel rates can vary by as service. Central reservation
registration with Fáilte Ireland. A much as 40 per cent depending facilities are available at the hotel
complete list of approved on the time of year, and rates can chains that have been listed here.
camping sites in the North more than double during
can be found at discover festivals. Prices can also vary
northernireland.com/camping. significantly between weekends Disabled Travellers
For a boutique camping and weekdays. Many hotels A fact sheet for disabled visitors
experience, “glamping” sites often have large discounts. can be obtained from tourist
are an emerging trend around Country house rates also vary offices, Dublin Tourism, and
Ireland. Visitors can book to stay a great deal according to Fáilte Ireland, and in their main
in a tepee or yurt. Boutique
Camping in Castletown
Geoghegan in the Midlands,
is one such facility.
For those wishing to
experience the Irish countryside
at a more leisurely and relaxing
pace, it is possible to hire a
traditional horse-drawn caravan.
One company that specializes in
this type of trip is Kilvahan
Horsedrawn Caravans, based
at Coolrain in Laois.
Youth Hostels
There are 22 youth hostels
registered with An Óige (the The Connemara Sleepzone hostel, well equipped for families




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WHERE T O ST A Y  295


been chosen as the best in
their region, based on a variety
of factors, such as service,
welcome, family-friendly
approach, idyllic locations
and comfort.
There is a huge variety of
places to stay in Ireland – from
guesthouses and castles that
ooze character and history to
hotels that have rooms with
beautiful views. Each hotel
has been given a theme as
guidance. Luxury establishments
are at the top end of the price
bracket and offer an exclusive
service with high levels of
comfort. They are often
The Grace Kelly Suite at the Gresham Hotel (see p296) in Dublin landmark properties, set on
rolling green acres with lakes
accommodation guide there is available from the Northern and forests. Places to stay
a symbol for wheelchair Ireland Tourist Board entitled listed as Budget are at the
accessibility. A similar symbol is Accessible Accommodation. other end of the scale and
used in the accommodation are competitive on price.
listings in this book (see pp296– Throughout the listings,
303). The Citizens Information Recommended Hotels venues that stand out from the
Board (see p352) is another body The hotels on the following rest are marked as DK Choice.
that offers information on pages are divided into eight These offer a particularly special
accommo dation for the geographical areas: Dublin, experience – for superlative
disabled. Southeast Ireland, Cork and service, beautiful interiors and
The annual publication Kerry, The Lower Shannon, the rooms, excellent amenities and
Holidays in the British Isles caters West of Ireland, Northwest gadgets, the thought given to
specifically for the disabled Ireland, the Midlands and families, rooms that overlook
traveller and covers Northern Northern Ireland. They are then stunning scenery, an excellent
Ireland. There is also a guide, subsequently organized by on-site restaurant, or a
with comprehensive listings, town. The establishments have combination of these.
DIRECTORY
Hotels Guesthouses House and Kilvahan Horsedrawn
Apartment Rentals Caravans
Carlton Hotel Group Irish Hotels Coolrain, Co Laois.
Parkway House, Cloghran, Federation Airbnb Tel 05787 35178.
Dublin Airport, 13 Northbrook Rd, ∑ airbnb.ie ∑ horsedrawn
Co Dublin. Dublin 6. Tel 01 497 6459. Elegant Ireland caravans.com
Tel 01 866 7555. ∑ irelandhotels.com Box No 10871, Dublin 8.
∑ carlton.ie Youth Hostels
Tel 01 473 2505.
The Doyle Collection Bed-and- ∑ elegant.ie An Óige (Irish YHA)
156 Pembroke Rd, Dublin 4. Breakfast Irish Landmark Trust 61 Mountjoy St, Dublin 7.
Tel 01 607 0070. Accommodation 11 Parnell St Sq, Dublin 1. Tel 01 830 4555.
∑ doylecollection.com Tel 01 670 4733. ∑ anoige.ie
Hastings Hotels B&B Ireland ∑ irishlandmark.com Independent Holiday
∑ bandbireland.com
1066 House, Upper Rent an Irish Cottage Hostels of Ireland
Newtownards Rd, Belfast. Ireland Bed and 51 O’Connell St, Limerick. PO Box 11772, Fairview,
Tel 028 9047 1066. Breakfast Network Tel 061 411109. Dublin 3.
∑ hastingshotels.com ∑ ireland-bnb.com ∑ rentacottage.ie Tel 01 836 4700.
∑ hostels-ireland.com
Country House Farmhouses Camping, Trailers HI Northern Ireland
Accommodation & Motor Homes 22–32 Donegall Rd,
Irish Farmhouse Belfast.
Hidden Ireland Holidays Boutique Camping Tel 028 9031 5435.
P. O. Box 31, Westport, Co Belleek Rd, Ballyshannon, Castletown Geoghegan, ∑ hini.org.uk
Mayo. Tel 01 662 7166 or Co Donegal. Co Westmeath.
098 66650. Tel 071 982 2222. Tel 087 987 5277.
∑ hiddenireland.com ∑ irishfarmholidays.com ∑ Boutiquecamping.ie



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296  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Stay

The Shelbourne Dublin €€€ Price Guide
Dublin Luxury Map E4/5 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Southeast Dublin 27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
Tel 01 663 4500
The Davenport €€ ∑ marriott.com € up to €80
Luxury Map F4 This landmark hotel has uniformed €€ €80–€180
8–10 Merrion Street Lower, Dublin 2 doormen, a grand lobby, a stylish €€€ over €180
Tel 01 607 3500 bar and plush bedrooms.
∑ davenporthotel.ie are simple but neat, with modern
Behind a Neo-Classical façade The Westin €€€ facilities, and the plush old-
dating from 1863, this hotel with Luxury Map D3 fashioned Library Bar is a delight.
mahogany and brass finishings 35–39 Westmoreland Street, Dublin 2
has the feel of a gentleman’s club. Tel 01 645 1000 Radisson Blu Royal Hotel €€€
∑ thewestindublin.com Chain hotel Map C4
Kilronan House €€ Housed in a beautiful former Golden Lane, Dublin 8
Guesthouse Map D5 bank overlooking Trinity College, Tel 01 898 2900
70 Adelaide Road, Dublin 2 this hotel’s bedrooms are ∑ radissonblu.ie/royalhotel-dublin
Tel 01 475 5266 furnished to a high standard. This hotel on a quiet street has
∑ kilronanhouse.com spacious rooms. Guests can use a
Georgian charm is coupled with fitness centre and pool nearby.
modern comforts, including Southwest Dublin
orthopaedic beds, in this listed Avalon House €
town house dating from 1854. Hostel Map C4 North of the Liffey
55 Aungier Street, Dublin 2 Cassidys €€
Stauntons on the Green €€ Tel 01 475 0001 Budget Map D2
Rooms with views Map D5 ∑ avalon-house.ie 8–9 Cavendish Row, Upper O’Connell
83 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 Cheap and cheerful accommo- Street, Dublin 1
Tel 01 478 2300 dation is offered in this restored Tel 01 878 0555
∑ stauntonsonthegreen.ie red-brick Victorian building. The ∑ cassidyshotel.com
A cosy Georgian guesthouse. dorms are clean, with pine floors The modern en suite rooms here
Rooms at the back are quieter and and high ceilings. retain features of the Georgian
have views of Iveagh Gardens. age. Great city centre location.
Brooks Hotel €€€
Buswells €€€ Luxury Map D4 Hotel Riu Plaza The Gresham €€€
Hotel with character Map E4 59–62 Drury Street, Dublin 2 Hotel with character Map D1
23–27 Molesworth Street, Tel 01 670 4000 23 Upper O’Connell Street, Dublin 1
Dublin 2 ∑ brookshotel.ie Tel 01 874 6881
Tel 01 614 6500 An immaculately maintained ∑ gresham-hotels-dublin.com
∑ buswells.ie boutique hotel with a great One of Dublin’s oldest hotels is
One of the first hotels built in reputation. Contemporary in a grand 200-year-old building.
Dublin, Buswells was established flourishes accompany the The interior has been modernized
in 1882. The Georgian building tastefully traditional decor. without sacrificing period charm.
has a classy interior.
Central Hotel €€€ The Morrison €€€
DK Choice Hotel with character Map D5 Boutique Map C3
Ormond Quay, Dublin 1
1–5 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2
The Merrion €€€ Tel 01 679 7302 Tel 01 887 2400
Luxury Map D5 ∑ centralhoteldublin.com ∑ morrisonhotel.ie
Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2 Built in 1887 and well-located, as This hip and vibrant hotel is in the
Tel 01 603 0600 the name suggests. The rooms heart of the city. Rooms are
∑ merrionhotel.com stylish with a range of amenities.
Four elegant 18th-century
town houses in the heart of Further Afield
Georgian Dublin have been
converted into this luxury hotel.
The walls are hung with Irish DK Choice
artworks, and there’s a spa and
two restaurants. Ariel House €€
Guesthouse with
character Road map D4
Number 31 €€€ 50–54 Landsdowne Road, Dublin 4
Hotel with character Map E5 Tel 01 668 5512
31 Leeson Close, Dublin 2 ∑ ariel-house.net
Tel 01 676 5011 Occupying three stately Victorian
∑ number31.ie townhouses built in 1850, this
Housed in an elegant, classical guesthouse has tasteful period
Georgian building, this boutique decor. It is in a leafy suburb close
guesthouse is known for its warm to the city centre, and a short
hospitality. Luxurious bedrooms Luxurious living room in the Presidential walk from the Aviva stadium.
are individually decorated. Suite, The Westin, Dublin
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WHERE T O ST A Y  297


DK Choice
BALLINAKILL:
Waterford Castle €€€
Luxury hotel
with character Road map D5
The Island, Ballinakill, Waterford
Tel 051 878 203
∑ waterfordcastleresort.com
Dating from the 15th century,
this castle on a private island is
reached by car ferry. Old-world
elegance meets modern luxury,
with fine-dining choices, an
18-hole golf course and tennis
courts. There are also 48 luxury
holiday lodges on the island.
ENNISKERRY:
Elegant suite at Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore Powerscourt Hotel
Resort & Spa €€€
Clayton Hotel €€ The Dylan €€€ Luxury Road map D4
Budget Road map D4 Luxury Road map D4 Powerscourt Estate, Enniskerry,
Merrion Road, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 Eastmoreland Place, Dublin 4 Co Wicklow
Tel 01 668 1111 Tel 01 660 3000 Tel 01 274 8888
∑ claytonhotelballsbridge.com ∑ dylan.ie ∑ powerscourthotel.com
This magnificent red-brick former A plush boutique hotel with an Rooms are spacious and elegant
masonic school provides guests award-winning, elegant restaurant and some have open fireplaces
with big rooms with comfortable, along with a popular cocktail bar. at this hotel within the historic
contemporary furnishings. Powerscourt Estate.
InterContinental Hotel €€€
Clontarf Castle €€ Luxury Road map D4 GOREY: Marlfield House €€€
Hotel with character Road map D3 Simmonscourt Road, Ballsbridge, Luxury hotel with
Castle Avenue, Clontarf, Dublin 3 Dublin 4 character Road map D5
Tel 01 833 2321 Tel 01 665 4000 Gorey, Co Wexford
∑ clontarfcastle.ie ∑ intercontinentaldublin.ie Tel 053 942 1124
A 12th-century castle has been Period-style elegance combines ∑ marlfieldhouse.ie
transformed to offer 21st-century with contemporary comforts in This Regency-style mansion is
comforts and amenities in a the lavish rooms. Great service. elegantly furnished with fine art,
warm and cosy atmosphere. antiques, crystal chandeliers and
marble fireplaces.
Fitzpatrick Castle €€
Hotel with character Road map D4 Southeast Ireland INISTIOGE: Cullintra House €€
Killiney, Co Dublin Farmhouse with
Tel 01 230 5400 character Road map D5
∑ fitzpatrickcastle.com DK Choice The Rower, Inistioge, Co Kilkenny
Bask in old-style luxury in this Tel 051 423 614 (call to book)
family-owned 18th-century ARDMORE: ∑ cullintrahouse.com
castle hotel located high above Cliff House Hotel €€€ A historic farmhouse with cosy,
Dublin Bay. Luxury Road map C5 romantic rooms, log fires and
Ardmore, Co Waterford home-cooked candlelit dinners.
Herbert Park €€ Tel 024 87800
Luxury Road map D4 ∑ thecliffhousehotel.com KILKENNY:
Ballsbridge, Dublin 4 In a stunning cliff-side setting, Langton House Hotel €€
Tel 01 667 2200 this hotel has spacious rooms Boutique Road map C4
∑ herbertparkhotel.ie decorated with Irish art. Most 69 John Street, Kilkenny, Co Kilkenny
Big, bright and spacious, this have a balcony or terrace Tel 056 776 5133
hotel next to Herbert Park has overlooking Ardmore Bay. There ∑ langtons.ie
well-appointed, stylish bedrooms is a Michelin-starred restaurant, This friendly hotel is full of
with modern sleek furnishings. luxury spa and outdoor rock pool. character and old-world charm.
Food and service are excellent.
Portmarnock Hotel and
Golf Links €€ ASHFORD: Ballyknocken MACREDDIN: The BrookLodge
Hotel with character Road map D3 House €€ Hotel & Wells Spa €€
Strand Rd, Portmarnock, Co. Dublin Farmhouse Road map D4 Boutique Road map D4
Tel 01 846 0611 Glenealy, Ashford, Co Wicklow Macreddin Village, Co Wicklow
∑ portmarnock.com Tel 0404 44627 Tel 0402 36444
This grand Victorian beachside ∑ ballyknocken.com ∑ brooklodge.com
house was originally home to This romantic Victorian Set amid the pretty Wicklow
the famous Jameson (whiskey) farmhouse and cookery school is countryside, this hotel boasts
family. It has well-furnished managed by celebrity Irish chef Ireland’s only certified organic
rooms with views of the bay. and food writer Catherine Fulvio. restaurant, the Strawberry Tree.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 292–5
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298  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

NEWTOWNMOUNTKENNEDY:
Druids Glen Resort €€
Rooms with views Road map D4
Newtownmountkennedy,
Co Wicklow
Tel 01 287 0800
∑ druidsglenresort.com
This large resort hotel in a
woodland location offers well-
appointed rooms, a spa, leisure
facilities and two golf courses.
RATHNEW: Tinakilly Country
House & Restaurant €€
Hotel with character Road map D4
Main St, Rathnew, Co Wicklow
Tel 0404 69274 Bantry House, set in a stunning location overlooking Bantry Bay
∑ tinakilly.ie
A classical Victorian-Italianate DK Choice mansion with its ornate,
mansion with modern comforts 300-year-old listed gardens.
and true Irish hospitality and BANTRY: Bantry House €€
charm. Bedrooms are individually Hotel with DINGLE: Dingle Benners
decorated with antique furniture. character Road map B6 Hotel €€
Bantry, Co Cork Hotel with character Road map A5
ROSSLARE: Kelly’s Resort Tel 027 50047 Main Street, Dingle, Co Kerry
Hotel & Spa €€€ ∑ bantryhouse.com Tel 066 915 1638
Resort Road map D5 This 17th-century stately home ∑ dinglebenners.com
Rosslare, Co Wexford is a special place to stay, with Dingle’s oldest hotel has a great
Tel 053 913 2114 wonderful period rooms, many setting, a rustic feel, excellent
∑ kellys.ie of which overlook the beautiful breakfast and friendly service.
This family-friendly seaside resort gardens. Climb the monumental
hotel has a leisure centre and stone Stairway to the Sky for DINGLE: Dingle Skellig Hotel
crèche, as well as other superb superb views over Bantry Bay. & Peninsula Spa €€
facilities such as tennis courts Open from March to October. Spa hotel Road map A5
and a spa. Dingle, Co Kerry
Tel 066 915 0200
STRAFFAN: Kildare Hotel CLONAKILTY: Inchydoney Island ∑ dingleskellig.com
& Country Club (K Club) €€€ Lodge & Spa €€€ With crèche services, a kids’ club,
Luxury Road map D4 Luxury Road map B6 leisure pool and a children’s menu,
Straffan, Co Kildare Clonakilty, West Cork, Co Cork this is a great choice for families.
Tel 01 601 7200 Tel 023 883 3143
∑ kclub.ie ∑ inchydoneyisland.com DINGLE PENINSULA:
Dating from 1832, the Kildare Ireland’s first sea-water spa. Gorman’s Clifftop
retains its original artwork and Many rooms have balconies House & Restaurant €€
antiques. French elegance overlooking the Atlantic Ocean Guesthouse Road map A5
abounds, along with excellent and a fantastic Blue Flag beach. Glaise Bheag, Ballydavid, Co Kerry
restaurants and leisure facilities. Tel 066 915 5162
∑ gormans-clifftophouse.com
THOMASTOWN: DK Choice At the heart of the stunning
Mount Juliet Estate €€€ CORK: Hayfield Manor €€€ Dingle Peninsula, this cosy hotel
Luxury Road Map D5 Luxury hotel with has sea views and open turf fires.
Thomastown, Co Kilkenny character Road map C5
Tel 056 777 3000 Perrott Avenue, College Road, Cork FOTA ISLAND:
∑ mountjuliet.ie Tel 021 484 5900 Fota Island Resort €€
Set in a country estate, this hotel is ∑ hayfieldmanor.ie Luxury Road map C6
a nature and golf lover’s paradise. This small, elegant hotel within Fota Island, Co Cork
Indulge in the stylish treatments its own grounds only opened in Tel 021 488 3700
at the award-winning spa. 1996, yet has the feel of a ∑ fotaisland.ie
period house, with spacious This stunning contemporary
bedrooms, elegant furnishings resort with golf course and spa
and impeccable service. has a neighbouring wildlife resort.
Cork and Kerry Excellent leisure facilities
include a spa and indoor pool. KENMARE:
BALTIMORE: Sea Shore Farm Guesthouse €€
Casey’s €€ Guesthouse Road map B5
Rooms with views Road map B6 CORK: Maryborough Tubrid, Kenmare, Co Kerry
Baltimore, Co Cork Hotel & Spa €€€ Tel 064 664 1270
Tel 028 20197 Hotel with character Road map C5 ∑ seashore-kenmare.com
∑ caseysofbaltimore.com Maryborough Hill, Douglas, Cork At the head of the Ring of
Situated on the spectacular Tel 021 436 5555 Kerry close to Kenmare, this
Wild Atlantic Way, this hotel has ∑ maryborough.com modern guesthouse offers
stunning views and a cosy bar Rooms with modern comforts fill beautiful views of Kenmare Bay
serving excellent seafood. this handsome 18th-century and the Beara Peninsula.
For key to prices see p296
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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Listings template “UK” LAYER
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Date 2nd November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm