SURVIVAL
GUIDE
Practical Information 350–359
Travel Information 360–373
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350 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Although Ireland is quite a small island, well-developed economy. Any decent-
visitors should not expect to see everything sized town in the Republic is likely to have
in a short space of time, since many of the a tourist information centre which offers a
country’s most magnificent attractions are in full range of facilities to help the visitor,
rural areas. In remote parts of the island the including maps and leaflets to take away,
roads are narrow and winding, the pace of as well as staff on hand to offer advice.
life is very slow and public transport tends Northern Ireland has its own tourist board
to be infrequent. However, although the which also has offices in most towns. The
Republic of Ireland remains one of Europe’s level of hospitality is first-rate across the
most unspoiled destinations, it has a very whole of the country.
entering from countries outside
of the EU, as well as those coming
from the Channel Islands and
Canary Islands, are required to
pass through customs. Go
through the green channel
if you have nothing to declare
and use the red channel if you
have goods to declare or are
uncertain of the allowances.
Tourist Information
Both the Republic and North ern
Ireland have an impressive
The Irish Whiskey Collection at Terminal 2, Dublin Airport network of tourist information
offices. In addition to providing
Visas and Passports
Since Ireland is a member of lots of free local information, the
Visitors from the EU, US, Canada, the European Union, any citizen tourist offices in large towns sell
Australia and New Zealand from other EU countries can pass maps and guide books and can
require a valid passport but not a directly through the blue reserve accommo dation for a
visa for entry into the Republic or channel – but random checks nominal charge. There are also
Northern Ireland. All others, are still carried out to detect tourist information points in
including those wanting to study any prohibited goods. Travellers some of the smaller towns
or work, should check with their
local Irish or British embassy first.
UK nationals born in Britain or Language Useful Words
Northern Ireland do not need a The Republic of Ireland is an banc – bank
passport to enter the Republic of officially bilingual – almost an lár – town centre
Ireland but should take one with all road signs have place an trá – beach
them for car rental, medical names in both English and ar aghaidh – go
services or if travelling by air. Irish. English is the spoken bád – boat
language everywhere apart bealach amach – exit
from a few parts of the far bealach isteach – entrance
Travel Safety Advice west, called Gaeltachts (see bus – bus
Visitors can get up-to-date p233), but from time to time dúnta – closed
travel safety information from you may find signs written fáilte – welcome
the Department of State in the only in Irish. Here are some of fir – men
US, the Foreign and Common the words you are most likely gardaí – police
wealth Office in the UK, and to come across from the leithreas – toilet
ancient language.
the Department of Foreign mná – women
Affairs and Trade in Australia. oifig an phoist – post office
oscailte – open
óstán – hotel
Customs Information siopa – shop
When you arrive at any of ticéad – ticket
Ireland’s airports you will find Sign using old form of Gaelic traein – train
three queues for immigration.
Scenic coastal road in County Kerry
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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.5)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION 351
DIRECTORY
Travel Safety Advice
Australia
Department of Foreign Affairs
and Trade
∑ dfat.gov.au
∑ smartraveller.gov.au
UK
Foreign and Common wealth
Office ∑ gov.uk/foreign-
travel-advice
US
The Heritage Service-run Parke’s Castle in County Leitrim (see p237) US Department of State
∑ travel.state.gov
and villages. Opening hours Heritage Card, allows unlimited,
can be somewhat erratic and free admission to all sites Tourism Ireland
many are open only during the managed by the organization Offices Abroad
summer season. Local museums for a year. At €25 for adults, United Kingdom
and libraries can be another €20 for senior citizens, €10 for For the whole of Ireland: Tourism
useful source for a selection of children and students (valid ID Ireland UK, Nations House, 103
tourist literature. is required), and €60 for a family Wigmore St, London W1U 1QS.
Before leaving for Ireland you ticket, the card is good value. Tel 0800 039 7000.
can get brochures and advice Popular Heritage Service sites ∑ tourismireland.com
from Tourism Ireland. Their include Céide Fields (see p208), ∑ discoverireland.com
Discover Ireland offices can be Cahir Castle (see p202) and the
found in major cities all over the Blasket Centre (see p162). United States
345 Park Avenue, New York, NY
world. Fáilte Ireland (the Irish Entrance fees in Northern 10154. Tel 1 800 223 6470.
Tourist Board) and the Northern Ireland are about the same as ∑ tourismireland.com
Ireland Tourist Board (NITB) in the Republic, also with
can also supply you with maps discounts offered to students Tourist Board Offices
and leaflets. For more local and senior citizens. North of the in Ireland
infor mation on sights, accomm border the National Trust has a
odation and car rental, it’s worth membership scheme, but is Fáilte Ireland
contacting the regional tourist more expensive (about £63 per Baggot St Bridge, Dublin 2.
offices in Dublin, Cork, Galway year per person or £111 per year Tel 01 602 4000.
and Limerick. for a family ticket). The card can ∑ failteireland.ie
Lists of places to stay provided be used at sights such as Mount Northern Ireland
by tourist offices will not Stewart House (see p286–7) and Tourist Board
necessarily include every local Carrickfergus Castle (see p279). 59 North St, Belfast BT1 1NB.
hotel and guesthouse – these The card only represents good Tel 028 9023 1221.
lists recommend only those value for money if you are also Belfast Welcome Centre:
establish ments that have been planning to visit National Trust 47 Donegall Place.
approved by the Tourist Board. sites elsewhere in Great Britain. Tel 028 9024 6609.
∑ discovernorthern
ireland.com
Admission Opening
Charges Times Other Contacts
Most of Ireland’s Opening hours Heritage Ireland
major sights, are usually Tel 01 647 6000.
including ancient between 10am ∑ heritageireland.ie
monuments, Heritage Card giving access and 5pm. Some National Trust
museums and to historic sites sights close for lunch. Tel 028 9751 0721.
national parks, have Few places are open ∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
an admission fee. For each place on Sunday morning and some
of interest in this guide, we museums shut on Mondays.
specify whether or not there is a From June to September all still choose to close at this time.
charge. Many sights offer the sights are open but crowds Some attractions close for
discounts for students and peak. July is the marching winter, while others keep
seniors. season in the North (see p53) shorter hours. Many places
Heritage Ireland maintains but tensions have eased in open for public holidays, such
national parks, museums, peacetime Belfast and Derry; as Easter, and then close again
monuments and gardens. The many shops and restaurants until summer.
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352 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Facilities for the Disabled
Most sights in Ireland have
access for wheelchairs. This
book gives basic information
about disabled access for each
sight, but it’s worth phoning
to check details. The Citizens
Information Board provides
information for the Republic,
publishing county guides to
accommodation, restaurants
and amenities. In the North,
Disability Action can advise
on accessibility, while ADAPT
provides information and a
Interpretative centre at Connemara National Park (see p212) book on disabled access to
over 400 venues in the cultural
Interpretative Centres Student Travellers
sector. Both tourist boards also
Many of Ireland’s major sights Students with a valid ISIC card have guides to accommodation
are ruins or Stone Age (International Student Identity and amenities.
archaeological sites, which can Card) benefit from reduced
be difficult to fully appreciate. admission to museums, Travelling with Children
However, interpretative or concerts and other forms of
visitors’ centres, which explain enter tainment. It also procures Ireland has a large young
the historical significance of over 15 per cent reduction on population, and children are
sites, are widely available. Entry the Bus Éireann network. ISIC made welcome in hotels and
to the site may be free, but cards can be obtained from restaurants. However, note that
you have to pay to visit the branches of USIT travel in in the Republic those under the
interpretative centre. Dublin, Bel fast and other age of 18 can visit a pub only if
In areas of natural beauty, college towns. To find out accompanied by a parent or
such as Connemara National where your nearest issuing guardian, and then only until
Park (see p212), an office is, visit 9pm. There are often great
interpretative www.isic.org. deals or discounts available
centre acts as a USIT will also to families. Many sights offer a
useful focal point. supply under-30s discount admission to children
The centre provides with an EYC and under-5s usually get in free.
information (European School holidays are obviously
leaflets and has Youth Card) for peak times for travelling with
reconstructions International Student Identity Card discounts on children, and there are many
of sites. There are airfares, and in activities available to cater for
3-D models and displays, as restaurants, museums, shops families. Some hotels offer a
well as an interesting and theatres. The card is recog- special family deal, which
audiovisual presentation on ni zed in over 20 European states. includes horse riding and
the development of the local Irish Rail (also known as fishing, among other things.
landscape over the last Iarnród Éireann) offers
10,000 years. There is also a discounted student fares at
shop selling postcards, books railway stations or via their
and posters. website. Proof of student status
such as an ISIC card is necessary.
The Republic has its own
Religious Services Student Travelcard, Student
Ireland has always been a Leap Card, offering a good
deeply religious country discount on Irish Rail, DART,
and churchgoing is still an Dublin Bus and Luas fares, as
important way of life for many. well as at some shops. Most full-
The Republic of Ireland is time foreign students are
87 per cent Roman Catholic, eligible for this. Cards are issued
which means that finding a by post or in person at one of
non-Catholic church may the listed card centres on the
sometimes be difficult. In the website. Similarly, in the North,
Republic and Northern Ireland, discounts on NI Railways,
the tourist offices, hotels and Ulsterbus and Metro (the Belfast
B&Bs all have a list of local bus service) are available with Familes relaxing, Kinsale Harbour,
church service times available. Translink student travel cards. County Cork
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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION 353
DIRECTORY
Embassies
Australia
Fitzwilton House, Wilton Terrace,
Dublin 2. Tel 01 664 5300.
∑ ireland.embassy.gov.au
Canada
7–8 Wilton Terrace, Dublin 2.
Tel 01 234 4000. ∑ canada.ie
UK
29 Merrion Rd, Dublin 4.
Tel 01 205 8777.
∑ britishembassy.gov
US
Black Abbey in Kilkenny has disabled access 42 Elgin Rd, Ballsbridge, Dublin 4.
Electricity Green Ireland Tel 01 668 7122.
∑ dublin.usembassy.gov
The standard electricity voltage Ireland has long been known
in both parts of Ireland is 230 as the Emerald Isle, but this Student Travellers
volts AC, 50 Hz. The standard has more to do with the Irish Rail
plug is the three-pin IS 411 small population and a lack ∑ irishrail.ie
(BS 1363), as used throughout of industrialization than any
Great Britain. Adaptors are readily official environmental initiatives. Student Leap Card
available in airport shops. Before However, the Green Party joined ∑ studentleapcard.ie
using appliances from other a coalition government in the Translink
countries, always make sure that Republic in 2007, and building ∑ translink.co.uk
they are compatible with the Irish standards have been tightened; USIT
system; it might be that you motor tax favours cars with lower 19/21 Aston Quay, Dublin 2.
need to use a power conver ter emissions; second homes are Tel 01 602 1906.
or power transformer. now taxed, and a carbon tax was Fountain Centre, College St,
introduced in 2010, followed by Belfast BT1 6ET. Tel 028 9032
water charges in 2014. 7111. ∑ usit.ie
Irish Time The land of Ireland is still
The whole of Ireland is in the predominantly in agricultural Facilities for the
Western European Time zone, use. Organic food produce is Disabled
the same as Great Britain, that is becoming popular and farmers’ ADAPT
five hours ahead of New York markets are held regularly in 109–113 Royal Avenue, Belfast.
and Toronto, one hour behind most large towns. There are vast Tel 028 9023 1211.
Germany and France, and ten areas of unspoiled coastline, lakes, ∑ adaptni.org
hours behind Sydney. In both mountains and forests. Pollution
the North and the South, from agriculture and sewage can Citizens Information Board
clocks go forward one hour be a problem, but the situation is 43 Townsend St, Dublin 2.
Tel 01 605 9000.
for summertime. improving and the water qua lity ∑ citizensinformation.ie
in coastal bathing areas is good.
Ecotourism is on the increase Disability Action
Conversion Chart 189 Airport Rd West, Belfast.
and organizations such as The
Imperial to Metric Organic Centre and the Centre Tel 028 9029 7880.
1 inch = 2.5 centimetres for Environmental Living and ∑ disabilityaction.org
1 foot = 30 centimetres Training (CELT) run courses on Green Ireland
1 mile = 1.6 kilometres such topics as beekeeping,
1 ounce = 28 grams sustainable house design, and Centre for Environmental
1 pound = 454 grams organic gardening. Agritourism is Living and Training (CELT)
1 pint = 0.6 litres also more widespread with work- East Clare Community Co-op,
1 gallon = 4.6 litres ing farms offering guestrooms Main Street, Scariff, Co Clare.
Metric to Imperial throughout the country; these Tel 061 640765. ∑ celtnet.org
1 millimetre = 0.04 inches can be booked through Irish Farmhouse Holidays
1 centimetre = 0.4 inches Irish Farmhouse Holidays. Tel 071 982 2222.
1 metre = 3 feet 3 inches For more information on ∑ irishfarmholidays.com
1 kilometre = 0.6 miles green issues, the Sustainable The Organic Centre
1 gram = 0.04 ounces Ireland website (www. Tel 071 985 4338.
1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds sustainable.ie) is an ∑ theorganiccentre.ie
1 litre = 1.8 pints indispensible resource.
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354 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Personal Security and Health situations, it is a good idea to
keep a passport or some other
Ireland is probably one of the safest places to travel in Europe. form of identification close at
Petty theft, such as pickpocketing, is seldom a problem outside hand. If you are walk ing around
certain parts of Dublin and a few other large towns. Tourist the city centres of Belfast and
offices and hoteliers gladly point out the areas to be avoided. Londonderry, you may notice
a strong police or military
In Northern Ireland security measures have been relaxed in presence. This is unlikely to
the light of the peace accord. In the Republic, however, crimes inconvenience you.
against the individual are on the increase, but rates still tend During July, visitors may find
to be lower than in other parts of the UK and Europe. themselves in slow-moving
traffic behind an Orange march
(see p53). Tensions between
Personal Safety in local communities can be
the Republic higher at this time, but the
Violent street crime is relatively affected areas are easily avoided.
rare but it is still advisable to
take suitable precautions, Personal Property
such as avoiding poorly lit
streets in the cities and larger As pickpocketing and bag-
towns. Poverty and a degree snatching can be a problem in
of drug addiction in central the larger towns, it’s best not to
Dublin have been known to carry around your passport or
cause a few problems, and large amounts of cash. Most
Limerick isn’t the most inviting hotels have a safe; or consider
of places after dark. But if you carrying a travel money card
take sensible precautions, (see p356). When out and about,
avoiding back-streets at use a bag that can be held
Pearse Street Garda Station, Dublin night and keeping to the securely, and be alert in
popular and busy areas, crowded places and
Police there should be little restaurants. A money belt
The police, should you ever cause for concern. may be a good investment.
need them, are called the In some of the larger If travelling by car, ensure
Garda Síochána (Gardaí, for towns you may be that all valuables are locked
short) in the Republic of approached in the street in the boot and always lock
Ireland and the Police Service by people ask ing for the car, even when
of Northern Ireland (PSNI) in money. This rarely Garda station leaving it for just a few
the North. The PSNI is the only develops into a minutes. In Northern
territorial police force in the UK troublesome situation, but Ireland, do not leave any bags
that is routinely armed. it is best to politely refuse or packages unattended,
Both police forces are working and walk away. as they may result in a
together to tackle the issue of security scare.
organized cross-border crime.
Personal Safety in
Northern Ireland Lost Property and
Baggage Rooms
Even at the height of the PSNI badge
Troubles in Northern Report all lost or stolen
Ireland, there was never a items at once to the police. In
significant threat to the tourist, order to make a claim against
and travelling around the your insurance company you
Province was deemed to need to send in a copy of the
be as safe as in the Republic. police report. Most train and
As long as peace prevails, no bus stations in the Republic
extra precautions need to be operate a lost-property service
taken here but first-time but there is no equivalent
visitors should be prepared available in Northern Ireland.
for certain unfamiliar situations, If you wish to do a day’s
no better or worse than in the sightseeing unencumbered
South. When driving, if you by baggage, most hotels
see a sign that indicates you and some main city tourist
are approaching a checkpoint, offices, both in the Republic
slow down and use dipped and Northern Ireland, offer
headlights. To keep fuss down baggage storage facilities.
Garda PSNI policeman to a minimum in these Ensure all luggage is locked.
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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.5)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION 355
In an Emergency Hospitals and
Pharmacies
In the Republic and Northern
Ireland, the emergency phone Residents of countries in the
number for Police, Ambulance European Union, the European
or Fire Brigade is 999 or 112 Economic Area and Switzerland
from a mobile, which should can claim free medical
only be used if really necessary. treatment in Ireland with a
In a medical emergency which European Health Insurance Card
does not require an ambulance, (EHIC) (see below). Cards can be
you should visit a general applied for online, are free of
practitioner (GP) or the out charge and are valid for five
patients, accident and emergency years. Also, be sure to let the
or casualty department of the doctor know that you want
nearest public hospital. In the treatment under the EU’s social
Republic, if you are not referred security regulations. In Northern
to the hospital by a GP you Ireland, British citi zens need Small rural health centre in
may be asked to pay a fee of no documentation. County Donegal
about €100. NonEU travellers should
If you find yourself in difficulties, either have their own travel insurance com pany for medical
with no money, or unwell and insurance or be prepared to care abroad. They may have
not speaking the language, pay up front for treatment. to pay first and reclaim costs
call the nearest police station A wide range of medical later; if so, be sure to get an
for practical advice. Tourist supplies is available over the itemized bill.
offices will also be able to help. counter at pharmacies. However,
Public hospitals are used to many medicines are available DIRECTORY
providing translation for only with a prescription author
patients of many nationalities. ized by a local doctor. If you are Useful Addresses
The Irish Tourist Assistance likely to require specialized Police, Fire, Ambulance and
Service (ITAS) provides practical drugs during your stay, ensure Coastguard Services
assistance to victims of crime, you bring your own supplies Tel Dial 999 or 112 in both the
and can liaise with embassies, and a copy of the original pres Republic and Northern Ireland.
organize money transfers and cription. You can also ask your
cancel credit cards. doctor to write a letter with the Police Exchange
generic name of the For nonemergency police
medicine you require. assistance in Northern Ireland.
Always obtain a receipt Tel 028 9065 0222.
for insurance claims. Beaumont Hospital
Beaumont Road, Dublin 9.
Travel and Tel 01 809 3000.
Health Insurance City Hospital
Before travelling, Lisburn Road, Belfast BT9 7AB.
make sure that your (also emergency dental
possessions are treatment).
Dublin ambulance insured; it might be Tel 028 9032 9241.
difficult and more Dublin Dental Hospital
expensive to get Lincoln Place, Dublin 2.
insurance in Ireland. Tel 01 612 7200.
It is also worth noting
that travel insurance European Health
for the UK may not Insurance Card
cover you in the ∑ ehic.org
Republic, so make Hickey’s Pharmacy
Dublin fire engine sure you have an 55 Lr O’Connell St, Dublin 1.
adequate policy. Tel 01 873 0427.
Private health
insurance policies Irish Tourist
may include a certain Assistance Service
level of travel cover 67 Hanover St East, Dublin 2.
age. US visitors Tel 1 890 365 700.
espe cially should Royal Victoria Hospital
check before leaving Grosvenor Road, Belfast BT12
home whether they 6BA. Tel 028 9024 0503.
Garda patrol car are cov ered by their
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356 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Banking and Local Currency Debit and Credit Cards
Throughout Ireland you can
The Republic and Northern Ireland have different currencies. pay by card in most hotels and
The euro is the currency in the Republic and the pound restaurants, petrol (gas) stations
sterling is the currency in Northern Ireland, the same as in and many shops. An increasing
Great Britain. When travelling between Northern Ireland number of stores have
contactless technology, which
and the Republic, there’s no shortage of money-changers can be used with debit cards
in towns near the border. Check online or in the daily that have a contactless symbol
newspapers for the standard rate of exchange to give for purchases of under €30. Visa
yourself a guideline. Some tourist attractions offer money- and MasterCard are the most
changing facilities but for the best exchange rates use the widely accepted credit cards;
banks or bureaux de change. fewer businesses take American
Express and Diners Club cards.
Traveller’s cheques are largely
obsolete. A travel money card is
Banks and Bureaux at the main banks, there a good alternative – you can
de Change
are some private bureaux de preload this with money and
Banks throughout Ireland change in large towns and cities. use it with a PIN at ATMs, in
generally provide a very good As with most other exchange many restaurants and shops.
service, although opening facilities, bureaux de change
times can vary significantly. stay open later than banks. Wiring Money
Both north and south of the Check their rates first before
border, there are fewer bank undertaking any transactions. The cheapest way to get money
branches in small towns than from home is to have your own
there once were, so it’s advisable bank wire funds to a bank in
to do your banking in the bigger Ireland. This process is very slow,
towns if possible. Danske Bank logo often taking several days; it’s
In the Republic of Ireland, much faster, though expensive,
retail banks include the Bank ATMs to use a com pany such as
of Ireland, the Allied Irish ATMs or cash dispensers, Western Union (tel: 1 800 395395).
Bank (AIB), the Ulster Bank, are common in most towns
and the Permanent tsb. The in Ireland, in and outside of DIRECTORY
usual banking hours are banks on main streets, in large
Monday to Friday from 10am shops and at shopping centres. Bureaux de Change
to 12:30pm and from 1:30 to Using these machines is the
4pm, but most branches now fastest and most convenient Joe Walsh Tours
stay open during lunchtime. way to manage your money 69 Upper O’Connell St, Dublin 1.
There is extended opening while on holiday, and Tel 01 872 2555.
(until 5pm) on one day of the exchange rates are good. ∑ joewalshtours.ie
week. In Dublin, Cork and most Cards in the Plus, Link, Cirrus Thomas Cook
other cities and towns, late and Maestro networks, and Belfast Park S.C.
opening is on Thursdays. Visa and MasterCard credit Tel 084 4335 7068.
Branches of the Permanent tsb cards, can be used in ∑ thomascook.com
remain open at lunchtime and most ATMs. Travelex
up to 5pm on weekdays. Some Be careful to protect your Belfast International Airport.
rural areas are visited once or PIN at all times and avoid Tel 028 9444 7500.
twice a week by a mobile bank. using ATMs that appear to ∑ travelex.com
Check locally for days and times. have been tampered with.
In Northern Ireland there
are three retail banks: the Ulster
Bank, the Bank of Ireland, and
the First Trust Bank, along
with Danske Bank, which was
formerly known as Northern
Bank. Most are open from 10am
till 4pm, though a few close for
a lunch hour at 12:30pm.
In both the Republic and in
Northern Ireland, all banks close
on public holidays, some of
which differ from North to
South (see p55). In addition to
the foreign exchange counters Ornate post office and bureau de change in Ventry, County Kerry
356-357_EW_Ireland.indd 356 08/03/17 11:08 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.5)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION 357
Currency in limit to the amount of cash you the words “Bank of England”
Northern Ireland
can take into and out of Northern on British notes. It is best to
Northern Ireland uses British Ireland. In addition to the British use the provincial banknotes
currency – the pound sterling (£), currency, four provincial banks in Northern Ireland rather than
which is divided into 100 pence issue their own banknotes (bills), in Britain – some shops may be
(p). As there are no exchange worth the same as their counter reluctant to accept notes that
controls in the UK, there is no parts. To tell them apart, look for are unfamiliar to them.
£50 note
Banknotes
British banknotes are issued in £20 note
the denominations £50, £20,
£10 and £5. Always carry small
denominations as some shops
may refuse the £50 note.
Coins £10 note
Coins come in the following
denominations: £2, £1, 50p, 20p, £5 note
10p, 5p, 2p and 1p. All have the
Queen’s head on one side and
are the same as those elsewhere
in the UK, except that the pound
coin has a different detail – a flax
plant – on the reverse side. £2 £1 50p 20p 10p
The Euro
EU members have opted out of monuments. The coins have one
The Republic of Ireland was one of joining this common currency. side identical (the value side), and
12 countries which adopted the Euro notes are identical one side with an image unique
euro in 2002. EU members using throughout the eurozone, each to each coun try. Notes and coins
the euro as sole currency are featuring designs of fictional are exchangeable in each of the
known as the eurozone. Sev eral architectural structures and participating euro countries.
€50 note
Banknotes
Euro banknotes, each a different
€20 note colour and size, have seven
denominations. The €5 note
(grey in colour) is the smallest,
followed by the €10 note (pink),
€20 note (blue), €50 note
(orange), €100 note (green),
€200 note (yellow) and €500
note (purple).
€10 note
€5 note Coins
The euro has eight coin
denominations: €2 and
€1 (gold and silver); 50 cents,
20 cents, 10 cents (gold);
5 cents, 2 cents and
€2 coin €1 coin 50 cents 20 cents 10 cents 1 cent (bronze).
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358 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Communications and Media band) will need to acquire a tri-
or quad-band set.
Both parts of Ireland are well served for national daily and
Sunday newspapers, and there are many Irish magazines. Radio and Television
The TV and radio are dominated by the state broad casters
RTE and BBC, but independent local radio thrives all over Ireland has three state-
Ireland. The postal system is reliable and there are post controlled television channels,
RTÉ One, RTÉ Two and Irish-
offices in every small town. The Irish are big users of mobile language TG4, as well as two
phones, and as a result, public telephones are less used privately run channels, TV3 and
now. Prepaid phonecards, however, remain good value. 3e. Other channels, inclu ding
Most large towns have an Internet café, and Wi-Fi points are five British terrestrial ones,
becoming more common. are available. There are six
national radio stations.
Public Telephones
accepted as payment for calls
The Republic’s national to the country in which the card
telephone company, eircom, was issued.
once ran all the telephone
services in the country, but Phoning from
other companies now also
provide public phones. Eircom’s Northern Ireland
service includes coin, card Cheap call rates within and from
and credit-card telephones the Province are the same as for
that provide an efficient the Republic.
service. For those intending • For calls within Great Britain
to spend more than €5 on and Northern Ireland: dial the
calls during their stay, it is area code and the number
worth using a phonecard, as required.
these offer discounts. • For calls to the Republic of
Northern Ireland uses Ireland: dial 00 353, then the
British Telecom (BT) public area code minus the first 0, then
phones, which accept either the number. Daily newspapers of the Republic
coins, cards or credit cards. • For international calls: dial 00, Newspapers and
Both BT and eircom phone- then the country code (for
cards are available from post example, 1 for Canada, 64 for Magazines
offices, supermarkets and New Zealand), then the area The Republic of Ireland has
other retail outlets. code minus the first 0, then the eight national daily papers
number. and seven Sunday papers.
All phone numbers in Quality dailies include the
Phoning from the Northern Ireland have an area Irish Independent, the Examiner
Republic of Ireland
code of 028, followed by an and The Irish Times, the latter
Cheap call rates within the 8-digit local number. being well known for its
Republic and to the UK are from journalistic excellence. The
6pm to 8am on weekdays and North’s top local paper is the
all day at weekends. Off-peak Mobile Phones Belfast Telegraph, which has
times for international calls vary Vodafone, 3 Mobile and Meteor morning, afternoon and late
depending on the country you are the main service providers. editions. The Province’s
call, but are generally as above. Before travelling, activate your morning papers, the Belfast
• To call Northern Ireland: phone for use abroad but also News Letter and
dial 048, followed by the check on your provider’s Irish News, are less rewarding.
8-digit number. roaming charges for making Ireland’s daily tabloids are the
•To call the UK: dial 00 44, the and receiving calls. It may work Star, Irish Sun, Irish Daily Mirror,
area code (minus the leading 0), out more economical to buy an Irish Daily Mail and The Herald.
then the number. Irish SIM card if your phone is To find out what’s on and
• To call other countries: dial 00, not locked (or get your phone where, the broadsheets are a
followed by the country code unlocked before you go away). useful source of information
(for example, 1 for the USA, Alternatively, you could and most towns have a local
61 for Australia), the area consider buying a cheap pre- or regional paper with listings.
code (minus the leading 0), pay phone with its own SIM In larger towns, British
then the number. card. The Irish network uses the newspapers (including The
• Credit cards issued in certain 900 or 1800 GSM system, so Times) are on sale, as well as US
countries including the USA, visitors from the US (where the publications Newsweek, USA
Australia and Canada are system is 800 or 1900 MHz Today and Time magazine.
358-359_EW_Ireland.indd 358 08/03/17 11:44 am
PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION 359
and do not open on Saturdays. even carry Queen Victoria’s
Standard letter and postcard mono gram on the front, a
stamps can also be bought relic from the days of
from some newsagents. British rule. Most towns and
An Post is the state-owned villages have a postbox,
provider of postal services in the from which the mail is
Republic of Ireland. The Republic collected regularly.
does not have a first- and
Coffee and computers at the Central second-class system, but DIRECTORY
Internet Café in Dublin sending a postcard is a few
cents cheaper than a letter. Useful Numbers
The Internet Republic of Ireland
Though it is improving all the
The main cities in the Republic time, the postal service in the
and Northern Ireland have Republic can be quite slow – Emergency Calls
plenty of access to the Internet. allow three to four days when Tel 999.
Almost all hotels and sending a letter to Great Britain Directory Enquiries
guesthouses offer Wi-Fi, and at least six days for the Tel 11811 (Republic and
usually for no extra United States. Northern Ireland). Tel 11818 (all
charge. Many bars, In Northern Ireland, other countries).
pubs and cafés letters to other parts
have free Wi-Fi of the UK can be sent Operator Assistance
for their customers either first- or second- Tel 10 (Ireland and Great Britain).
(you simply ask for class, with most first- Tel 114 (international calls).
the password) and Northern Ireland class letters reaching Useful Numbers
there are still a Post Office sign their UK destination Northern Ireland
few dedicated the next day. The cost
Internet cafés. As of a letter from Emergency Calls
a public service, North ern Ireland is Tel 999.
free Wi-Fi hotspots Republic of Ireland Post the same to all
are provided Office logo EU countries. Directory Enquiries
throughout Dublin. Both postal Tel 118118 (UK, Republic of
Check out www.dublincity.ie for services offer the faster option Ireland and all other countries).
more information and details. of couriers, which offer delivery Tel 153 (all other countries).
from the next work ing day for Operator Assistance
the UK and Europe.
Postal Services Tel 100 (UK).
Tel 114 (all other countries).
Main post offices in the Republic
and in Northern Ireland are Postboxes Internet Cafés
usually open from 9am to Postboxes in Ireland come in
5:30pm during the week and two colours – green in the Claude’s Café
from 9am to around 1pm on Republic and red in the 4 Shipquay St, Derry.
Saturdays, although times North. Many of Ireland’s Tel 028 7127 9379.
do vary. Some smaller offices postboxes are quite historic. ∑ claudescafederry.co.uk
close for lunch on weekdays Some of those in the Republic
Central Internet Café
6 Grafton Street, Dublin.
Tel 01 677 8298.
∑ centralinternetcafe.com
Browsers Internet Café
77 Dublin Road, Belfast.
Tel 028 9032 2272.
Post Offices
General Post Office (Dublin)
O’Connell Street, Dublin 1.
Tel 01 705 7600 (customer
services).
Bridge Street Post Office
(Belfast)
Bridge Street, Belfast.
Tel 08457 223 344.
Postbox in the Republic Northern Ireland double postbox
358-359_EW_Ireland.indd 359 08/03/17 11:44 am
360 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
TRAVEL INFORMATION 30 to 45 minutes to the city
centre. In addition, several
Ireland’s three main airports, Dublin, can purchase combined coach/ferry and buses a day go to the town of
Shannon and Belfast, are well served by rail/ferry tickets from almost all of the towns Ennis, about 20 km (12 miles)
flights from Britain, the United States and in mainland Britain. The slowly improving away. The Republic’s smaller
an increasing number of countries around public transport systems in both the North airports depend mainly on
local taxi services.
the world. If you are travelling by sea from and South reflect the rural nature of the All airports in the Republic
the UK, there is a very good choice of island. With this in mind, travelling around have both long and short
ferry routes from ports in Britain to both Ireland is probably best enjoyed if you stay parking facilities.
the Republic and Northern Ireland. embrace the Irish way of thinking and
Instead of buying separate tickets, you just take your time. Flying to Northern
Ireland
Aer Lingus operates flights from
Green Travel
Heathrow as well as regional UK
There is a relatively airports to Belfast International
wellestablished railway Airport. There are also flights
infrastructure covering some every two hours, operated by
parts of Ireland, and train travel British Midland, from London
is a good option, particularly on Heathrow to George Best
the Dublin–Cork and Dublin– Belfast City Airport.
Belfast routes. The rail network This airport is used by smaller
may have received little funding aircraft, but is favoured by many
in recent years, with greater because of its location just 6.5 km
investment in the national (4 miles) from the city centre. The
system of motorways, but there The exterior of Dublin International Airport airport also has more flights from
have been improvements in the the UK – around 15 cities plus
rolling stock and the frequency The major airline operating many charter flights for pilgrims London Gatwick, Stansted and
of services. The bus network is scheduled flights between (see p209) to Ireland West Luton – than Belfast International.
also good, offering comfortable Britain and the Republic is Aer Airport Knock in Co Mayo, The City of Derry Airport is
services to all parts of the Lingus. However, Ryanair is a which also has flights from Northern Ireland’s smallest and
country (see pp370–71). fierce rival, with cheap fares Dublin, London (Stansted) and handles flights from Stansted,
If you are interested in car from several airports in Britain Manchester. There are flights Manchester and Glasgow.
sharing, note that the Northern and all over Europe. Aer Arann into Kerry from Dublin, Luton
Ireland Roads Service operates offers flights within Ireland and Stansted airports, and Airport Connections in
a scheme. Their website (www. and to the UK. Waterford Airport has flights
carshareni.com) can provide Aer Lingus and United from both Manchester and Northern Ireland
you with further information. Airlines fly direct from the US Luton. Galway is well served The airports in Northern Ireland
In the cities, public transport to Dublin Airport and Shannon with five daily flights from Dublin. are generally well served with
is plentiful but hampered by the Airport, ten miles outside transport links. The Belfast
abundant use of private cars. Limerick. Delta Air Lines fly Airport Connections in International Airbus service
There are discussions underway direct to Shannon and then will take you from the airport
regarding the introduction of a on to Dublin. the Republic to the Europa Bus centre. This
congestion charge in Dublin and Cork Airport is served by The Republic’s three main runs every halfhour and takes
Belfast. Elsewhere, walkers are flights from London (Heathrow airports are all served by about 40 min utes from end to
well catered for with waymarked and Stansted), Birmingham, regular bus services. Dublin end. The Airport Express 300 runs
trails. There is also good cycling Manchester, Bristol, Plymouth, Airport is accessible by over from Belfast International to the
on an extensive network of Cardiff, Leeds, Glasgow, Paris, 700 buses and coaches daily, city centre every 15 minutes.
minor roads. Amsterdam and Dublin. No including direct services bet At Belfast City Airport the
airlines fly direct to Ireland from ween the airport, the city’s Airport Express 600 runs every
Australia or New Zealand, but main rail and bus stations and 20 minutes throughout the day.
Flying to the there are plenty of connections the city centre every 15 to 20
Republic of Ireland
via London and other capitals. minutes, from early morning
Flights from most of the major The Republic’s other airports to around midnight. The trip
European cities arrive at Dublin have fewer flights. There are takes 30 minutes to an hour.
Airport, which is Ireland’s busiest At Cork, the Bus Éireann
airport. Regular services to the service takes 25 minutes from
Republic depart from London’s the airport into the city. Buses
five airports (Heath row, City, run every 45 minutes on week
Gatwick, Luton and Stan sted) days and hourly at the week
and other cities in Britain, plus ends. At Shannon Airport, Bus
the Channel Islands and the Éireann runs a regular service
Isle of Man. Airport sign in English and Gaelic into Limerick which takes
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(Source v1.5)
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Size 125mm x 217mm
360 SUR VIV AL GUIDE TR A VEL INFORM A TION 361
30 to 45 minutes to the city DIRECTORY
centre. In addition, several
can purchase combined coach/ferry and buses a day go to the town of Major Airports
rail/ferry tickets from almost all of the towns Ennis, about 20 km (12 miles) Belfast International
in mainland Britain. The slowly improving away. The Republic’s smaller Tel 028 9448 4848.
public transport systems in both the North airports depend mainly on Cork Airport
local taxi services.
and South reflect the rural nature of the All airports in the Republic Tel 021 431 3131.
island. With this in mind, travelling around have both long and short
Ireland is probably best enjoyed if you stay parking facilities. Dublin Airport
embrace the Irish way of thinking and Tel 01 814 1111.
just take your time. Flying to Northern George Best Belfast
Ireland City Airport
Tel 028 9093 9093.
Aer Lingus operates flights from Check-in desks at Cork Airport
Heathrow as well as regional UK Ireland West Airport Knock
airports to Belfast International There are also trains from Tel 094 936 8100.
Airport. There are also flights the airport to Central Station Shannon Airport
every two hours, operated by about every 30 minutes.
British Midland, from London Derry’s airport is on local bus Tel 061 712000.
Heathrow to George Best route number 143, which goes Airlines
Belfast City Airport. into the city centre once an
This airport is used by smaller hour (less frequently at Aer Lingus
aircraft, but is favoured by many weekends). All airports in Tel 081 836 5000 (Ireland).
because of its location just 6.5 km Northern Ireland have taxi ranks Tel 1 800 474 7424 (US).
(4 miles) from the city centre. The and both long and shortterm Tel 0870 876 5000 (UK).
airport also has more flights from parking facilities.
the UK – around 15 cities plus ∑ aerlingus.com
many charter flights for pilgrims London Gatwick, Stansted and Aer Arann
(see p209) to Ireland West Luton – than Belfast International. Tickets and Fares Tel 0818 210210 (Ireland).
Airport Knock in Co Mayo, The City of Derry Airport is Airline options between the Tel 020 474 7747 (Netherlands).
which also has flights from Northern Ireland’s smallest and United States and Ireland Tel 0870 876 7676 (UK).
Dublin, London (Stansted) and handles flights from Stansted, have increased in the last few ∑ aerarann.ie
Manchester. There are flights Manchester and Glasgow. years, with frequent flights
into Kerry from Dublin, Luton now from both the East and British Midland (bmi)
and Stansted airports, and Airport Connections in West coasts. It’s quite easy to Tel 01 407 3036 (Ireland).
Waterford Airport has flights get a roundtrip flight to Tel 0870 607 0555 (UK).
from both Manchester and Northern Ireland Shannon from the East Coast ∑ flybmi.com
Luton. Galway is well served The airports in Northern Ireland for under US$700. The best
with five daily flights from Dublin. are generally well served with bargains are on flights with Cityjet
transport links. The Belfast fixed dates. Airfares from the Tel 01 870 0100 (Ireland).
International Airbus service US are at their highest in the ∑ cityjet.com
Airport Connections in will take you from the airport peak season which runs from
the Republic Delta Air Lines
to the Europa Bus centre. This July to September. Tel 01 407 3165 (Ireland).
The Republic’s three main runs every halfhour and takes Many UK airports serve Tel 1 800 241 4141 (US).
airports are all served by about 40 min utes from end to Ireland and airlines offer a Tel 0845 600 0950 (UK).
regular bus services. Dublin end. The Airport Express 300 runs host of options on fares. It’s ∑ delta.com
Airport is accessible by over from Belfast International to the not difficult to get a roundtrip
700 buses and coaches daily, city centre every 15 minutes. flight from mainland UK to easyJet
including direct services bet At Belfast City Airport the Dublin for well under £100. Tel 0870 600 0000 (UK).
ween the airport, the city’s Airport Express 600 runs every The cheapest place to fly from ∑ easyjet.com
main rail and bus stations and 20 minutes throughout the day. is usually London, especially
the city centre every 15 to 20 Luton and Stansted airports. Qantas
minutes, from early morning Prices are fairly constant all Tel 01 407 3278 (Ireland).
to around midnight. The trip year except at Christmas, Tel 13 13 13 (Aus). Tel 1 800 227
takes 30 minutes to an hour. during summer and on public 4500 (US). ∑ qantas.com.au
At Cork, the Bus Éireann holidays, when there are few Ryanair
service takes 25 minutes from discounted fares. Tel 01 812 1212 (Ireland).
the airport into the city. Buses Many airlines offer discounts
run every 45 minutes on week to under25s, while USIT ∑ ryanair.com
days and hourly at the week (see p352), Campus Travel United Airlines
ends. At Shannon Airport, Bus and specialist travel agents Tel 1 800 864 8331 (US).
Éireann runs a regular service One of the Airlink buses which take passengers often have cheaper rates for ∑ united.com
into Limerick which takes from Dublin Airport into the city centre students and under26s.
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362 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Arriving by Sea
Travelling by ferry is a popular way of getting to Ireland,
especially for groups or families intending to tour the country
by car. Nine ports in Great Britain and two in France provide
ferry crossings to Ireland’s six ports. Nowadays, all ferries are
of the modern drive-on/drive-off variety with lounges,
restaurants and shops. There are also a greater number of
crossings and shorter journey times available. Prices vary Logo of Irish Ferries
largely depending on the time of year.
service from Fishguard in
South Wales using their Stena
Europe ferry, which takes
3 hours and 30 minutes to
make the crossing.
Irish Ferries operates two
daily crossings to Rosslare from
Pembroke in South Wales
(3 hours and 45 minutes), with
14 crossings weekly, as well as
a service from Roscoff in France
(17 hours and 30 minutes), with
three crossings weekly. Irish
Ferries and P&O also run regular
services to Rosslare from
Cherbourg in France (18 hours).
Cabins and berths are available
A P&O ferry making the crossing between Cairnryan and Larne on all crossings to Rosslare and
should be booked well in
advance. Stena Line also runs a
Ferries to Dublin Port
24 hours before the departure budget service all year round
There is a good choice of ferry time. Passengers travelling with from Rosslare to Cherbourg
services between Holyhead in bicycles should mention this (18 hours), with three crossings
Wales and Ireland. Irish Ferries, when booking – most ferry per week. Amenities include
the country’s largest shipping companies allow people to bars, a cinema, and comfortable
company, operates on the take bicycles free of charge. en-suite cabins.
Holyhead–Dublin Port route Companies generally operate
and has up to six crossings a throughout the year with the
day. The high-speed service exception of Christmas Day Ferries to Cork
takes 1 hour and 49 minutes, and Boxing Day. There is only one route per
while the conventional ferry week direct to Cork from
takes about 3 hours and Roscoff in France, operated
15 minutes. Stena Line also Ferries to Rosslare by Brittany Ferries. The ferry
operates four ferry crossings Rosslare, in County Wexford, is leaves from Cork on a Saturday
each day on the same route, the main port for crossings and from Roscoff on a Friday.
taking 3hours and 15 minutes . from South Wales to Ireland. The service runs only from
P&O Ferries offers an 8-hour Stena Line runs a twice-daily April to October and the
crossing from Liverpool to crossing time is 14 hours.
Dublin. Norfolkline makes the Cabins and berths are available
same journey in approximately on routes to Cork but need
7 hours, and offers one daytime to be booked well in advance
and one night-time service in high season.
daily. Note that on Sundays
and Mondays there is only a
night crossing available. Port Connections in
the Republic
Vehicle loading and unload ing
times on the fast ferries are All of Ireland’s ports have
considerably shorter than ade quate bus and train
with other ferries. Passengers connec tions, as well as taxis
requiring special assistance at waiting to meet arrivals. At
ports or on board the ship Dublin Port, Dublin Express
should contact the company Irish Ferries ship loading up at buses meet ferry arri vals and
they are booked with at least Rosslare Harbour take passengers straight into
362-363_EW_Ireland_2.indd 362 08/03/17 11:44 am
TR A VEL INFORM A TION 363
DIRECTORY
Ferry Companies
Brittany Ferries
Tel 021 427 7801 (Cork).
Tel 0870 907 6103 (UK).
∑ brittany-ferries.com
Irish Ferries
Tel 0818 300400 (ROI).
Tel 0870 517 1717 (UK).
∑ irishferries.com
Norfolkline Ferries
Tel 01 819 2999 (ROI).
Tel 0870 8701 020 (UK).
∑ norfolkline-ferries.co.uk
Dublin Port, with the city in the background
P&O Ferries
Tel 01 407 3434 (ROI).
the city centre (the journey ticket, bookable via the ferry Tel 0871 664 4999 (UK).
time is 15 minutes). There are companies on their websites, by ∑ poferries.com
also regular public buses, telephone or in person at port Stena Line
which take a little longer. offices. The Man in Seat Sixty- Tel 01 204 7777 (Dublin).
Visitors arriving at Dublin One offers good-value Sail-Rail Tel 0870 570 7070 (UK).
Port who require car hire tickets from any train station in ∑ stenaline.co.uk
should travel into the city Great Britain to any rail station in
centre, where there are Ireland (www.seat61.com) Bus Companies
branches of all the main car Eurolines, a subsidiary of Bus
hire firms as well as local Eireann, runs a through-bus Eurolines
companies. There is a Budget service from about 35 towns Tel 01 836 6111(Dublin).
rental office at the Rosslare in Great Britain to more than Tel 0870 514 3219 (UK).
port terminal. Local firm Dan 100 destinations in the Republic. ∑ buseireann.ie
Dooley (www.dan-dooley.ie) Ulsterbus/Translink offers the
offers a meet-and-greet same service to destina tions in Megabus
service to all ports. Northern Ireland. Tickets for ∑ megabus.com
both these bus companies can National Express
be booked through National
Train and Bus Express, which has over Tel 08717 818 181 (UK).
Through-Tickets ∑ nationalexpress.com
2,000 agents in Great Britain.
It is possible to travel from any Megabus operates a budget Ulsterbus/Translink
train station in Great Britain to through-bus service between a Tel 028 9066 6630 (Belfast).
any specified destination in few key cities in Great Britain ∑ translink.co.uk
Ireland on a combined sea/rail and Rosslare in the Republic.
Ferry Routes to the Operator Length of Journey
Republic of Ireland
Roscoff–Rosslare Irish Ferries 17hrs 30mins (Oscar Wilde)
Fishguard–Rosslare Stena Line 3hrs 30mins (Stena Europe)
Irish Ferries 1hr 49mins (Dublin Swift)
Holyhead–Dublin
Stena Line 3hrs 15mins (Stena Adventurer &
Stena Superfast X))
Norfolkline 7hrs
Liverpool–Dublin
P&O Ferries 8hrs (Norbay)
P&O Ferries 18hrs (Normandy)
Cherbourg–Rosslare Irish Ferries 18 hrs (Normandy)
Stena Line 18 hrs (Stena Horizon)
Pembroke–Rosslare Irish Ferries 3hrs 45mins (Isle of Inishmore)
362-363_EW_Ireland_2.indd 363 08/03/17 11:44 am
364 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
The Stena Line ferry docked at Birkenhead
Ferries to Belfast Port Connections in both ways before setting out.
and Larne Northern Ireland Those travelling to ports
Stena Line offers two routes to Belfast Port is located 1.5 km without a reservation should
Belfast – from the Scottish port (1 mile) from the city centre, always check avail ability before
of Cairnryan (Stranraer), which and can be easily reached by starting their journey. Check the
runs up to six times daily taking bus, taxi or on foot. Flexibus ferries’ websites for special offers
3 hours and 15 minutes , and shuttles also operate to the city and discounts.
from Liverpool (Birkenhead) in centre via the Europa Buscentre Often, the cheapest way
England, a longer journey of and Central Railway Station. for families or groups of adults
8 hours with a choice of day or From Larne Harbour, a regular to travel is to buy a ticket that
night sailings. (Note that on bus service connects to the allows you to take a car plus
Mondays there is only a night town’s bus station, and from a maximum number of
crossing available.) here, buses run every hour into pass engers. At certain times of
Crossing the Irish Sea with Belfast city centre. There are the year on particular routes,
the Isle of Man Steam Packet Co also trains to take ferry the return ticket for a car and
enables you to visit the Isle of passengers from Larne Port two adults (two children
Man en route to Belfast. Leaving to Belfast’s Yorkgate and count as one adult) can cost
from Liverpool, this service Central train stations. less than €120. The cheapest
pro vides the added advantage cross ings are usually those
of allowing you to disembark at where the passenger must
Dublin and return from Belfast Fares and Concessions depart and return within a
or vice versa. Crossing time from Fares on ferry crossings to specified period. Fares are
Liverpool to the Isle of Man is Ireland vary dramatically normally reduced for mid-
4 hours and 15 minutes by ferry, according to the season – week travel and early-morning
or 2 hours and 45 minutes by prices on certain days during or late-night crossings. Ferry
catamaran, then just under the peak period of mid-June com panies offer discounts for
3 hours onward to Ireland. to mid-September can be students with a student travel
P&O Ferries run a service from double those at other times card (see p352) and some have
Cairnryan in Scotland to Larne, of the year. Prices increase cut-price deals for those with
north of Belfast, taking just under greatly during the Christmas InterRail tickets (see p369). The
2 hours. During the week there and New Year period, too. It is website www.aferry.co.uk offers
are up to seven sailings a day. advisable to book your journey a selection of good-value ferries.
Ferry Routes to Northern Ireland Operator Length of Journey
Cairnryan–Belfast Stena Line 3hrs 15mins
Liverpool–Belfast Stena Line 8hrs
Isle of Man–Belfast Isle of Man Steam Packet Co 2hrs 45mins
Isle of Man–Dublin Isle of Man Steam Packet Co 2hrs 55mins
Cairnryan–Larne P&O Ferries 2hrs
364-365_EW_Ireland.indd 364 08/03/17 11:44 am
TR A VEL INFORM A TION 365
On the Road
One of the best ways to see Ireland’s magnificent scenery
and ancient sites is by car. Driving on the narrow, twisting
country roads can be a pleasure; often you don’t see another
vehicle for miles. It can also be frustrating, especially if you
find yourself stuck behind a slow-moving tractor or a herd of
cows. If you don’t want to take your own vehicle, you’ll find car
rental in Ireland no problem. All the international car rental
firms operate in the Republic and are also well represented in
the North. Touring by bicycle is another enjoyable way of Irish-language road sign instructing
seeing the best parts of the island at your own leisurely pace.
motorists to yield or give way
What You Need Petrol
If you intend to take your Unleaded petrol (gas) and diesel
own car across on the ferry fuel are available just about
(see pp362–4) check your car everywhere in Ireland. Although
insurance to find out how well prices vary from station to
you are covered. To prevent a station, fuel in the Republic and
fully comprehensive policy in Northern Ireland is expensive.
being downgraded to third- Almost all the stations accept
party coverage, ask your VISA and MasterCard, although
insurance company for a it is worth checking before filling
Green Card. Carry your insur- up, particularly in rural areas.
ance certificate, Green Card,
proof of ownership of the car Road Maps
and, importantly, your driver’s
licence. If your licence was The road map on the inside
issued in Great Britain, you Rural petrol pump back cover shows virtually all
should also bring your pass - the towns and villages men-
port with you for ID. passenger indemnity insurance tioned in this guide. In addi tion,
Membership of a reputable and coverage for third party, each chapter starts with a map
breakdown club like the AA fire and theft, but not damage of the region showing all the
or Green Flag National to the vehicle. If you plan to major sights and tips on getting
Breakdown is advisable unless cross the border in either around. If you plan to do much
you are undaunted by the direction, however briefly, you driving or cycling, you should
prospect of breaking down in must tell the rental company, obtain a more detailed map.
remote parts. Non-members as there may be a small Ordnance Survey Holiday Maps
can join up for just the duration insurance premium. are among the best road maps.
of their trip. Depending on the To rent a car, you must show a You can usually get town plans
type of coverage, automobile full driver’s licence, held for two free from tourist offices (see
clubs may offer only limited years without violation. US pp350–51). The tourist boards of
services in Ireland. visitors are advised to obtain an the Republic and Northern
international licence through Ireland both issue free lists of
AAA before leaving the States to suggested routes for cyclists.
Car Hire
facilitate dealing with traffic The National Trails Office web-
Car rental firms do good busi- officials should problems occur. site is a good online resource.
ness in Ireland, so in summer
it’s wise to book ahead. Rental –
particularly in the Republic –
is quite expensive and the
best rates are often obtained
by renting in advance. Broker
companies, such as Holiday
Autos, will shop around to get
you the best deal. Savings can
also be made by choosing a fly-
drive or even a rail-sail-drive
vacation, but always check
for hidden extras.
Car rental usually includes
unlimited mileage plus The road signage outside Dublin Airport
364-365_EW_Ireland.indd 365 08/03/17 11:44 am
366 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
sign “Yield” (“Géill Slí” in Irish-
speaking areas) – in the UK this
is worded “Give Way”. Throughout
the Republic and Northern
Ireland, brown signs with white
lettering indicate places of
historic, cultural or leisure interest.
Signs in the Republic
Unprotected quay or Junction ahead
river ahead
The familiar sight of a farmer and cattle on an Irish country road
Rules of the Road breath-testing is common,
Driving in Ireland is unlikely to especially at Christmas and on
pose any great problems. For bank holiday weekends.
many, the most difficult aspect of
it is getting used to over taking on Children or school Dangerous bends
the right and giving way to traffic Speed Limits ahead ahead
on the right at roundabouts The maximum speeds are shown
(traffic circles). On both sides of in miles in Northern Ireland and Signs In Northern Ireland
the border, the wearing of seat kilometres in the Republic,
belts is compulsory for drivers except in some rural areas where
and all passengers. Children must they are still in miles. They
have a suitable restraint system. are much the same as those
Motorcyclists and passengers in Britain:
must wear helmets. Northern • 50 km/h (30 mph) in built-
Ireland uses the same Highway up areas. Motorway direction sign
Code as Great Britain. The • 100 km/h (60 mph) on national
Republic of Ireland’s Highway roads and dual carriageways.
Code is very similar – find • 120 km/h (70 mph) on
copies of both at bookstores. motorways.
In the Republic, learner drivers In inner-city Dublin the speed
display an “L” plate, and in limit is 30km/h (20 mph). On Primary route sign
Northern Ireland, cars carrying certain roads, which are clearly Road Conditions
a red “R” plate identify “restricted” marked, the speed limits are
drivers who have passed their either 65 km/h (40 mph) or 80 Roads in Northern Ireland
driving test within the previous km/h (50 mph). Where there is and the Republic are well
12 months and have to keep no indication, the limit is 95 km/h surfaced and generally in
to lower speeds. Random (60 mph). In the Republic, good condition, although
vehic les towing caravans both have many winding
(trailers) must not exceed stretches requiring extra
90 km/h (55 mph). caution. The volume of traffic,
particularly in the South, is
much lower than in rural parts
Directions and of Britain. On some of the
Road Signs
more isolated rural roads
Road signs in the you may not come across
Republic are in both another driver for miles.
English and Irish, and Many sections of Ireland’s
dis tances are shown in national roads have been
kilometres. In the North upgraded to motorways, and
distances are shown there has been extensive
in miles. construction of two-lane
One sign that is carriageways across the country,
unique to the Republic including in remote areas such
A rural road, Dingle Peninsula is the regulatory traffic as County Donegal.
366-367_EW_Ireland.indd 366 25/04/16 11:07 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical (transport) template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
TR A VEL INFORM A TION 367
Parking unreliable weather, however, DIRECTORY
Finding parking in Ireland used can be something of a
to be easy, but this is no longer hindrance. Shops such as Car-Rental Companies
the case. Due to increased Kearney in Galway, rent bikes to Alamo
congestion, the majority of tourists and are usually open at Tel 0870 599 4000 (UK).
towns now have paid least six or seven days a Tel 877 222 9075 (US).
parking on and off street. week. It is often possible ∑ alamo.com
Dublin, Belfast and a to rent a bike in one
few other cities have town and drop it off at Argus Rent-a-Car
either parking meters or another for a small Tel (0) 23 83002 (Ireland).
(fairly expensive) parking Parking disc sign charge. You can also take ∑ argusrentals.com
lots. Parking on the bikes on buses and trains, Avis
street is allowed, though a usually for a small surcharge. Tel 021 432 7460 (Cork).
single yellow line along the Many dea lers can provide Tel 08445 818181 (UK).
edge of the road means there safety helmets, but it is always Tel 800 331 1084 (US). ∑ avis.com
are some restrictions (there best to bring your own
should be a sign nearby lightweight waterproof Budget
showing the permitted park ing clothing to help cope with Tel 01 844 5150 (Dublin).
times). Double yellow lines the unpredictable weather. Tel 800 793159 (US). ∑ budget.ie
indicate that no parking is Dan Dooley
allowed at any time. Tel 062 53103 (Dublin).
Disc parking – a version of Security Roadblocks in ∑ dan-dooley.ie
Northern Ireland
“pay & display” – operates in Hertz
most large towns and cities in In the late 1960s, when the Tel 01 844 5466 (Dublin).
the Republic and the Northern Ireland Tel 0207 026 007 (UK).
North. Discs Troubles began, road Tel 800 654 3001 (US).
can be purchased from blocks were introduced ∑ hertz.com
fuel stations, roadside on to the roads, with
machines, tourist offi ces checkpoints staffed by Holiday Autos
and many shops. the army or the police. Tel 0871 472 5229 (UK).
In Northern Ire land, These days, the peace ∑ holidayautos.co.uk
almost all towns and agreement has led to a Irish Car Rentals
villages have Control Warning sign in much more relaxed atti Tel 1850 206088 (ROI).
Zones, which are Northern Ireland tude and if you are trav Tel 0800 4747 4227 (UK).
indicated by large yellow elling by road, wheth er ∑ irishcarrentals.com
or pink signs. For security in the centre of Londonderry or
reasons, unattended parking in the remote Sperrin Mountains, Murrays/Europcar
a Control Zone is not per mitted you are very unlikely to come Tel 01 614 2888 (Dublin).
at any time of the day. across a roadblock. ∑ europcar.ie
In the unlikely event of National Car Rental
your being stopped, show Tel 061 206025 (Limerick).
Cycling
your driver’s licence and ∑ carhire.ie
The quiet roads of Ireland make insurance certificate or rental
touring by bicycle a real joy. The agreement when asked. Breakdown Services
Automobile Association
Tel 01 617 9999 (ROI).
Tel Rescue No. 1800 667788.
∑ aaireland.ie
Green Flag National
Breakdown
Tel 0800 000111 (to enrol in UK).
∑ greenflag.com
Trails and Routes
The National Trails Office
∑ irishtrails.ie
Bicycle-Rental Shops
Kearney Cycles
Tel 091 563356.
∑ kearneycycles.com
Cyclists checking their directions in Ballyvaughan, County Clare
366-367_EW_Ireland.indd 367 25/04/16 11:07 am
368 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Travelling by Train
The Republic of Ireland’s rail network is run by Irish Rail (Iarnród
Éireann) and is state-controlled. The rail network is far from
comprehensive and quite expensive, but the trains are generally
reliable and comfortable and can be a good way of covering long
distances. The service provided by Northern Ireland Railways
(NIR) is more limited but fares are slightly cheaper. There is an
excellent train service between Dublin and Belfast, with a journey
time of approximately two hours. Fares can be as little as €36
round trip, with substantial discounts for online bookings.
The DART at Bray railway station,
County Wicklow
Train Services in the Ireland using public transport, of Ireland have standard and
Republic of Ireland you will have to continue west superstandard (firstclass) com
Although the more rural areas ward from towns such as Sligo, partments. Bicycles can be taken
in the Republic of Ireland are Westport, Galway and Limerick on intercity trains for a small fee.
not served by train, Irish Rail using the local bus services.
operates a satisfactory service to The two main train stations in
most of the large cities and Dublin are Connolly Station, for Outer Dublin Rail Services
towns. Taking the train is trains to the north, northwest and The handy electric rail service
probably the fastest and most Rosslare, and Heuston Station, known as DART (Dublin Area
convenient way of going from which serves the west, midlands Rapid Transit) serves 30 stations
Dublin to places like Cork, and southwest. These two between Malahide and
Limerick, Galway, Waterford and stations are connected to the Greystones with several stops
Sligo. However, there are glaring city centre by the No. 90 bus in Dublin city centre. A Rail/Bus
gaps in the network; for example, service and the Luas which run ticket allows three consecutive
Donegal is totally devoid of train every 10 to 15 minutes and take days’ travel on DART trains as
services, so if you are planning a quarter of an hour – traffic per well as Dublin Bus services.
to explore the west coast of mitting. All trains in the Republic Tickets can be purchased at
any of the DART stations. The
Luas light rail service connects
Outer Dublin Dundalk central Dublin with the suburbs.
Transport The first lines were completed
Dublin
Network Airport Portmarnock in 2004, and interconnect with
the DART (see also p372).
Howth Junction
& Donaghmede Bayside
Sutton
Mullingar Ashtown Kilbarrack Train Services in
Broombridge Raheny Howth
Navan Road Harmonstown Northern Ireland
Parkway Drumcondra Killester
Clontarf Road The rail network in Northern
Connolly The Point
Heuston Ireland is sparse, with only
Kildare two main routes out of Belfast.
Grand Canal Dock
Blackhorse Rialto Lansdowne Road One line travels west to
Sandymount
Red Ranelagh Londonderry via Coleraine (for
Cow Sydney Booterstown the Giant’s Causeway) and the
Parade Seapoint
Milltown Blackrock Salthill & Monkstown other provides Ireland’s only
Belgard crossborder service, operating
Dundrum Dun Laoghaire Sandycove
Saggart Tallaght & Glasthule a highspeed link between
Glenageary Belfast and Dublin eight times
Sandyford
Dalkey a day. There is also an express
Key Carrickmines ser vice out to Larne Harbour
Killiney
Suburban rail Brides Glen and a commuter line to Bangor.
Shankill All trains leave from Central
DART rail service Station, which is not in fact
Luas light rail in the centre, but has regular
Dublin Airport links to Great Victoria Street
Bray Daly
Ferry terminal station in the heart of the
city’s business and shop ping
Greystones
district. There are no baggage
Arklow rooms at any of Northern
Ireland’s train or bus stations.
368-369_EW_Ireland.indd 368 08/03/17 4:01 pm
TR A VEL INFORM A TION 369
Tickets and Fares
Throughout Ireland, train tic kets
are generally quite expen sive,
but discounts are available
for students and there are lots
of bargain incentives and
concessionary passes. Most of
these include bus travel, so you
can get virtually anywhere in
Ireland on one ticket.
One of the best tickets
available is the Open-Road
Pass which allows unlimited
travel on all Bus Éireann
services from periods of three
days (€60) to 15 days (€258). Passengers in a queue at the ticket office at Belfast’s Central Station
An 8-day Irish Explorer ticket,
which costs €245, is valid on Concessions or for a flexible duration of
all Irish Rail and Bus Éireann Good concessions for students 5 days to 1 month in the
services throughout the are available with cards issued Republic and 30 other European
Republic; travel in Northern by Irish Rail and Translink for countries. It is available for
Ireland is not included. use in the South and Northern European citizens only. Older
Both passes cover many local Ireland respectively (see p352). travellers can get InterRail Adult
services, including transport An InterRail Youth Global Pass passes costing slightly more.
in Cork, Waterford, Limerick allows unlimited travel for 3, 4, Similar passes are offered by
and Galway. 6 or 8 travel days in one month, Eurail for non-Europeans.
Ireland’s Rail Network Portrush
Irish Rail (Iarnród Éireann) Coleraine
35 Abbey St Lower, Dublin 1. Ballymoney Larne Harbour
Tel 01 836 6222. ∑ irishrail.ie Londonderry Larne
Ballymena Whitehead
Northern Ireland Railways Antrim Carrickfergus
Central Station, East Bridge St, Belfast BT1 3PB. Bangor
Tel 028 9066 6630. ∑ translink.co.uk Lurgan Belfast Central
Portadown Lisburn
Sligo
Ballina Collooney Newry
Ballymote
Foxford Carrick-on-Shannon Dundalk
Castlebar Boyle
Manulla Dromod Drogheda
Westport Junction Ballyhaunis Gormanston
Claremorris Longford Balbriggan
Castlerea Edgeworthstown Skerries
Roscommon
Mullingar Enfield Rush & Lusk
Ballinasloe Athlone Maynooth Malahide
Attymon Dublin Connolly
Athenry Woodlawn Clara Monasterevin
Newbridge
Key Galway Tullamore Dublin Dublin Pearse
Craughwell Portarlington Heuston Dun Laoghaire
Irish Rail Ardrahan Portlaoise Kildare Bray
Roscrea Athy Greystones
NIR Gort Clough Jordan Ballybrophy Wicklow
Rathdrum
Ennis Birdhill Nenagh Templemore Carlow Arklow
Castle Thurles Muine Bheag
Limerick Connell Kilkenny Gorey
Limerick Junction Tipperary Carrick- Thomastown Enniscorthy
on-Suir
Cahir Waterford Wexford
Tralee Charleville
Clonmel Campile Rosslare Strand
Farranfore Millstreet Mallow Ballycullane
Killarney Banteer Wellington Rosslare Europort
Rathmore Bridge Bridgetown
Glounthane
Cork Cobh
0 kilometres 100
0 miles 50
368-369_EW_Ireland.indd 369 08/03/17 4:01 pm
370 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Travelling by Bus and Taxi
The bus services throughout Ireland are generally quite
good for a rural island. However, longer journeys often
involve changing buses en route so extra travelling time
should be allowed. Touring by bus is also a good way to see
Ireland – local tourist offices have details and prices of the
numerous tours available and they often take bookings.
There are taxi ranks in all major cities and towns in Ireland.
In the Republic, taxis are identified by a yellow light on the
roof. In the North, cities like Belfast and Londonderry have
both mini-cabs and London-style black cabs.
Getting Around by Bus fares are available on the the A typical Dublin Bus, operating throughout
the city and its periphery
There is an extensive long- website and at major bus
distance bus network stations. Belfast has two main 6 consecutive days to 15 days
throughout Ireland and buses bus stations – the Europa of unlimited travel out of 30
are generally considerably Bus centre off Great Victoria consecutive days. A variety of
cheaper than trains. There are Street and Laganside Station. other tickets are also available.
regular connections between For reasons of security, there are A Freedom of Northern
the main towns. Coaches are no baggage rooms at any of Ireland pass gives you unlimited
reliable and comfortable, and the stations in Northern Ireland. travel on all Ulsterbus routes
most offer free Wi-Fi. for either a day, three days or
The Republic of Ireland’s a week. Ulsterbus also offers
national bus company, Bus Tickets and Fares cheap day-return tickets.
Éireann, operates a country- In the Republic, long-distance Students are eligible for a
wide network of buses serving buses are about half the price of discount of one-third off fares
all the cities and most of the the equivalent train trip. If you by showing a Translink Student
towns. Timetables and fares are are making the return trip on Discount Card. There are also a
listed on the website. In Dublin, the same day, ask for a day- number of period passes
the main bus station is the return ticket, which is much available that combine bus
Busáras on Store Street, a short cheaper than the normal round- and rail travel (see p369).
walk from O’Connell Street. trip fare. Under-16s pay
There are also a large number approximately half the adult fare
of private bus companies, and student travelcard holders Bus Tours
which either compete with also get a healthy reduction. While the local bus services
the national network or For those intending to do a lot in Ireland are generally
provide services on routes of travelling it is cheaper to adequate for getting from
not covered by Bus Éireann. buy an Open-Road ticket. This town to town, using public
Ulsterbus/Translink runs an allows unlimited bus travel transport isn’t a very practical
excellent service throughout throug h out the Republic for a way of exploring specific areas
Northern Ireland including certain number of days in a set or regions in great detail, unless
express links between all the period, ranging from 3 days you have a lot of time on your
major towns. Timetables and of unlimited travel out of hands. If you find yourself in a
Express service bus in Northern Ireland
370-371_EW_Ireland.indd 370 08/03/17 11:08 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.6)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm
TR A VEL INFORM A TION 371
remote area like Connemara
(see pp210–12) but have only a
very limited amount of time
in which to see its main
attractions, a local guided tour
of the area is the most efficient
way of getting around. These
can often be booked at your
hotel or the local tourist office.
Healy’s Galway Bus Tours run
one- or two-day tours, starting
from Galway City to the Cliffs
of Moher and The Burren and
to Connemara and Kylemore
Abbey, making regular stops Cars waiting in line at a Dublin taxi rank
at places of interest. Half-day
or one-day tours such as this area (see p372). The on-street mileage; if not, it is always best
are available in many of light rail service, Luas (see p372), to confirm the fare to your
Ireland’s main tourist areas. provides an easy way to reach destination before travelling.
Other popular tours of rural suburban areas previously Taxis in Northern Ireland are
Ireland include Glendalough only acces sible by bus. The reasonably priced; journeys
(see pp144–5), Donegal (see Luas lines connect with the within the centre of Belfast
pp228–35) and the Ring of DART rail service (see p372) will usually cost no more than
Kerry (see pp168–9). at Connolly Station. £10 by mini-cab or black cab.
In Dublin and other cities In the rest of the Republic In most decent-sized towns
in the Republic, Bus Éireann the bus services, including city in the North you will find at
and some local companies buses in Galway, Limerick, least one taxi office or a rank
run half- and one-day excur- Waterford and Cork, are where you can wait for a cab.
sions. Dublin Bus Tours run oper ated mainly by Bus Otherwise, ask for the number
Dublin City tours, with live Éireann; a timetable is avail able of a taxi firm at a local hotel or
commentary. These hop-on- at tourist offices and bus B&B. A taxi plating scheme is in
hop-off buses stop at many of stations. Some bus routes place, with large plates at the
the city’s most famous sights. connecting towns and villages front and rear of the vehicle,
In Northern Ireland, are served by private which helps identify official
Ulsterbus/Translink operates companies as well as Bus taxis. Tipping taxi drivers is
tours from the Europa Éireann. For bus times custom ary but not obligatory.
Buscentre in Belfast to major (and stops) in more remote
places of interest in Northern areas, try asking the locals. DIRECTORY
Irleand, including the Northern Ireland’s bus
Causeway Coast (see p265), network is run by Ulsterbus/ National Bus
the Glens of Antrim (see p271) Translink including in Belfast Companies
and the Ulster-American Folk where the local service is Bus Éireann
Park (see p273) near Omagh. called Metro (see p373). Tel 01 836 6111. ∑ buseireann.ie
Tours run daily during summer Regional timetables are
months with a more limited available at bus stations. Ulsterbus/Translink
schedule during the rest of the Tel 028 9066 6630.
∑ translink.co.uk
year. Belfast City Sightseeing
operates regular hop-on-hop- Taxis Bus Tours
off bus tours around the city. With the exception of the
Love Ireland lists a range of Republic’s most rural places, Belfast City Sightseeing
bus tours in the Republic, while there is usually a local taxi ∑ belfastcitysightseeing.com
the Northern Ireland Tourist service. Apart from in Dublin, Dublin Bus Tours
Board includes various bus where they are plentiful, Tel 01 873 4222.
tours, from cultural sights to cruising taxis are a rarity and ∑ dublinsightseeing.ie
areas of natural beauty, on its the best places to find taxis are Healy’s Galway Bus Tours
website, all bookable online. at train or bus stations, hotels Tel 91 7770 066.
and taxi ranks – your hotel or ∑ galwaybustours.com
B&B will also be able to provide
Local Transport details. Taxis are identified by Love Ireland
Local bus services throughout an illuminated sign on the roof ∑ loveireland.com
the Republic are generally displaying the driver’s licence Northern Ireland Tourist
well run and reasonably priced. number. Four- or eight-seater Board
Dublin Bus runs the bus taxis are available and prices ∑ discovernorthernireland.com
services in the Greater Dublin are usually based on metered
370-371_EW_Ireland.indd 371 08/03/17 11:08 am
372 SUR VIV AL GUIDE
Travelling within Cities Tickets and Fares
Purchasing a Leap Visitor Card is
The historic centres of Dublin and Belfast are compact and a convenient way to prepay for
very easy to navigate. Both are well served by public transport, public transport services in
whether by bus, commuter train or, in the case of Dublin, tram. Dublin, Cork, Galway, Limerick,
Each city can be explored in a leisurely fashion on foot – a little Waterford and Wexford. Valid on
Luas, DART and commuter rail
less so by bicycle. Both cities offer plenty to see in a small area, services as well as Dublin Bus,
as well as easy access to the mountains. the cards can be purchased at
Dublin Airport and some tourist
Travelling within Dublin offices, retail outlets displaying
the Payzone sign, and online
(www.leapcard.ie). Fares are
Bus
to be completed by the end discounted by about 15 per
A Dublin Bus double-decker is of 2017. The Red line runs from cent when com pared to buying
still the best way to see the city. The Point in the Docklands to single tickets and start from
You can buy prepaid tickets the suburb of Tallagh and €10 for a one-day pass.
(including one-, two- and three- connects with Heuston and
day passes) in newsagents, or Con nolly railway stations, and
pay as you board. It is best to with the DART at Connolly. The Driving in Dublin
have the correct fare, otherwise Green Line runs from St Stephen’s Driving a car in Dublin’s
you will be given a receipt for Green, going down Harcourt congested city centre is best
the excess amount, which can Street and on to the avoided. The short distances are
only be cashed in at Dublin Bus southeastern suburbs of more easily covered on foot, or
HQ in O’Connell Street. Fares Dundrum and Sandyford. by bus or Luas. If you do need
start at €2 and depend on how Tickets can be bought at to drive, there are plenty of
far you travel. Buses run from ticket ma chines at Luas stops, multistorey car parks, and a
about 6am to 11.30pm; Nitelink and a return fare starts from system of pay-and-display
buses run through the night at €3.50. A one-day Luas pass on-street parking which
weekends. Bus routes and costs €6.80. costs €2–€5 per hour,
timetables are displayed at each depending on the zone.
bus stop. For bus tours see p370. Costs are shown on the ticket
DART machines in the street. Make
The electric rail commuter sure you return to your car on
LUAS system DART (Dublin Area time as clamping is common.
The Luas (luas is the Irish word Rapid Transit) serves 30 stations The M50 ring road around
for speed) light rail system, along the coast from Malahide Dublin is a barrier-free, no-cash
com pleted in 2004, is a and Howth on the north side to toll road. Tolls must be paid
comfortable and speedy way to Greystones on the south, with online within 48 hours
get around. Quicker than buses several stops in the city centre. (www.eflow.ie).
and avoiding traffic congestion, Services operate every
it has two on-street lines, the 15 minutes all day. Trains follow Cycling in Dublin
Red line and the Green line. the Irish sea coast for much of
Another Luas line connecting their journey, making for a very Dublin has many cycle lanes,
both these lines is under scenic route. Avoid rush hour and ever more people travel
construc tion and is scheduled for great views of the bay. to work by bike. Dublinbikes
is a self-service bike rental
scheme with more than 40 hire
stations around the city. The
first 30 minutes of hire are free;
after that the subsequent
service charge fee is debited
from your credit card.
A good place for the
uninitiated cyclist is along
the paths on either side of
the River Liffey below the
Custom House. Local shops,
such as Cycle Ways, rent
bikes to tourists. Alternatively,
try Neill’s Wheels in Dublin,
which offers bicycle rentals
and provides maps of scenic
Luas light rail station, Dublin cycle routes.
372-373_EW_Ireland.indd 372 08/03/17 11:44 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.5)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
TR A VEL INFORM A TION 373
Walking in Dublin sea will take less than an hour, Walking in Belfast
The outer suburbs of Dublin may and a walk between Dublin’s Belfast is a peaceful city these
sprawl for miles, but the city two Georgian squares, Parnell days, and visitors can walk
centre is very small and makes Square on the north side to St around without need for
for a pleasant amble on foot. Stephen’s Green on the south, concern. The city centre is
A walk east along the river from takes little more than half an small and easily negotiated
stately Heuston Station to the far hour. St Stephen’s Green itself is on foot. It’s a 20-minute walk
end of the south quays near the pleasant for a relaxed stroll. from the centre
to Queen’s
University,
Travelling within Belfast the Titanic
Quarter
or West
Belfast.
Belfast City
Walking Sign for cycle and
Tours leave pedestrian path
from the
Belfast Welcome Centre at
Donegall Place. These include
the general tour, Historic
Belfast, and the Blackstaff Way,
which visits the streets around
the city centre. Both of these
tours can be booked for groups.
DIRECTORY
Belfast Metro Bus
Cycling
Bus
even Belfast Black Cab Tours Cycle Ways (Dublin)
Metro, Belfast’s local bus service, of the city. Tel 01 873 4748.
is a great way to see the city and Those who do wish to drive ∑ cycleways.com
its environs. Prepaid tickets are around the city will find that
on sale in shops displaying the there is little traffic congestion. Dublinbikes
Metro sign or at the Metro kiosk Ample car parking can be ∑ dublinbikes.ie
in Donegall Square West. These found in the centre of the city Neill’s Wheels (Dublin)
need to be placed on the elec- with multistorey car parks and Tel 087 933 8312.
tronic reader next to the driver on-street pay-and-display ∑ rentabikedublin.com
when you board. Alternatively, parking (see p367). Make sure
pay the driver in coins. The fare you get back to your car on McConvey Cycles (Belfast)
depends on how far you travel, time to avoid a fine. Tel 028 9033 0322.
starting at £1.50. Maps showing ∑ mcconveycycles.com
the bus routes are avail able on City Transport
www.translink.co.uk. Cycling in Belfast
Belfast is becoming more cycle- DART (Dublin)
Tickets and Fares
friendly, with a good network of Tel 01 836 6222. ∑ irishrail.ie
The handy Metro Day Ticket cycle lanes and tracks. The many
(£3.50), allows unlimited travel parks are ideal for cycling and Luas (Dublin)
all day on the Metro bus system. walking, and a number of Tel 1 800 300604. ∑ luas.ie
There are multi-journey tickets traffic-free cycle-ways connect Taxis & Taxi Tours
from £10.50 for people staying Belfast with other towns. For
for a week or longer. further details, Belfast Black Cab Tours
visit www.sustrans. Tel 0799 0955227.
org.uk.
Driving in All bicycles are National Radio Cabs
Belfast (Dublin)
carried free of Tel 01 677 2222.
As with any other charge on Translink
small city centre, Metro prepay ticket (the overall trans- Walking Tours
there is no great port authority) buses
advantage in driving a car in and trains, and there is covered Belfast City Walking Tours
Belfast. Public transport is bicycle parking at many Tel 028 9029 2631.
good, the distances are easily stations. Bikes are available for ∑ belfast-city-walking-tours.
covered on foot and the hire from local shops such as co.uk
black taxis are cheap. There are McConvey Cycles.
372-373_EW_Ireland.indd 373 08/03/17 11:44 am
374 GENER AL INDEX
General Index
Page numbers in bold refer to Act of Union (1800) 46 Ardilaun, Lord 64, 213
main entries. Adair, John 228 Ardmore 149
Adams, Gerry 51 Ards Peninsula 12, 15, 284
3Arena (Dublin) 113, 119 Adare 198 Armagh 12, 259, 278
Admission charges 351 hotels 302
A Adventure activities 345, 347 restaurants 323
Abbeys and priories 193 Agicola 37 Armagh Planetarium 278
Assaroe Abbey 235 Ahenny, high crosses 203, 247 Arranmore 232
Athassel Priory 202 Ahern, Cecelia 27 Arrow, Lough 239
Augustinian Priory (Adare) Aillwee Cave (Burren) 192 Arsenius, Mother 209
198 Airports Art
Black Abbey (Kilkenny) 148 Northern Ireland 361 festivals 340
Boyle Abbey 223 Republic of Ireland 360–61 galleries (shops) 110, 111
Cahir Abbey 202 Air travel 360–361 Irish School 45
Clare Abbey 193 Albert Memorial Clock Tower political murals 282
Cong Abbey 213 (Belfast) 283 Ashford Castle (Cong) 213
Donegal Abbey 234 Alcock and Brown Memorial Ashtown Castle (Dublin) 100
Drumlane Abbey 244 (Clifden) 211 Askeaton 188
Duiske Abbey Allen, Lough 189 Athassel Priory 202
(Graiguenamanagh) 153 Allihies 170 Athlone 189, 253
Dunbrody Abbey (Hook Allingham, William 235 hotels 302
Peninsula) 152 All-Ireland Football Final restaurants 321–2
Fore Abbey 245 (Dublin) 54 Atlantic Coast Drive 208
Grey Abbey (Ards Peninsula) All-Ireland Hurling Final Atlantic Drive (Rosguill
284 (Dublin) 54 Peninsula) 229
Holy Cross Abbey (Thurles) Anderson, John 181 ATMs 356
199 Anglo-Irish Agreement (1985) Avoca Handweavers 143
Hore Abbey (Cashel) 199 51 Avondale Forest Park
Inch Abbey 285 Anglo-Irish literature 26 (Rathdrum) 145
Jerpoint Abbey 149 Anglo-Irish Treaty (1921) 48 Avondale House (Rathdrum)
Kylemore Abbey 15, 212 Anglo-Norman Ireland 35, 145
Muckross Abbey (Killarney) 40–41, 129
166 Annals of the Four Masters 43, B
Old Mellifont Abbey 39, 249 234 Bacon, Francis 95
Portumna Priory 219 Antique shops 110 Baggage rooms 354
Red Abbey (Cork) 180 Apartment rentals 293 Baily Lighthouse (Howth) 106
Rock of Cashel 12, 126 Aquariums Ballinafad 239
Selskar Abbey (Wexford) 154 Exploris (Portaferry) 284 Ballinasloe Fair 54
Sligo Abbey 238 Aran Islands 216–17, 220–21 Ballincollig 175
St Mary’s Abbey (Dublin) 97 hotels 300 Ballingeary 175
St Mary’s Priory (Devenish map 216–17 Ballintoy 265
Island) 275 restaurants 319 Ballycastle 270
Timoleague Abbey 174–5 Áras an Uachtaráin (Dublin) 100 festivals 52, 53
Tintern Abbey 152 Architecture 24–5 Ballyconneely 211
Trinitarian Priory (Adare) 198 Dublin’s Georgian terraces Ballycopeland Windmill 284
Abbey Theatre (Dublin) 91, 92, 73 Ballydehob 171
112, 119 Palladian houses 25, 44–5 Ballyferriter, Dingle Peninsula
history 48 Ardagh 245 tour 14, 162
Irish revival 26, 27 Ardara 232 Ballygally 271
Achill Island 13, 15, 205, 208 Ardfert Cathedral 160 Ballyhack 152
hotels 300 Ardglass 288 Ballyshannon 235
restaurants 318 Ardgroom 170 festivals 53
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GENER AL INDEX 375
Ballyshannon International Belfast (cont.) Blennerville Windmill 161
Folk Festival 53 hotels 303 Blessing of the Sea 53
Ballyvaughan 192 political murals 282 Bloody Foreland 15, 228
Balmoral Show (Belfast) 52 restaurants 323–4 Bloomsday (Dublin) 52
Baltimore 14, 174 travelling within 373 Boa Island, Lower Lough Erne
festivals 52 Belfast City Hall 258, 259, 280 tour 274
hotels 298 Belfast Civic Festival and Lord Boats
restaurants 314 Mayor’s Show 52 cruising and sailing 345, 347
Bamboo Park (Glengarriff) 171 Belfast Festival at Queen’s 54, currachs 216
Bangor 284 340 ferry crossings 362–4
Bangor, Lord and Lady 288 Belfast Musical Festival 55 Galway Hookers 211, 215,
Bank of Ireland (Dublin) 62, 64 Belfast Newsletter 44 218
Banks 356 Belleek 273 passenger liners 182
Banna Strand 160 Lower Lough Erne tour 274 see also Titanic (ship)
Bannow Bay 152 Belleek Pottery 273 Bog bodies 70
Banquets 340 Belvedere, 1st Earl 253 Bog of Allen Nature Centre
Bansha 202 Belvedere College (Dublin) 94 (Lullymore) 134
Banshees 30 Ben Bulben, Yeats Country Bogs
Bantry 14, 171 tour 236 Bog of Allen Nature Centre
hotels 298 Bennettsbridge 148 (Lullymore) 134
restaurants 314 Benone Strand 12, 13, 15, 264 Peatlands Park (Lough
Bantry Bay 171 Bere Island 171 Neagh) 278
Bantry House 172–3 Bianconi, Charles 46, 203 Raised bogs of the Midlands
Banville, John 27 Bicycles see Cycling 256
Barley Cove (Mizen Head) 171 Binchy, Maeve 27 Book of Durrow 38, 67
The Bay and Harbor of New York Birds Book of Kells 59, 68, 245
(Waugh) 46–7 Bull Point (Rathlin Island) 270 Book shops 110, 332, 335
Beach Scene (Degas) 95 The Burren 191 Bosco, Don 210
Beaghmore Stone Circles 272 Cape Clear Island 174 Botanic Gardens (Belfast) 282
Beaker people 36 Castle Caldwell Forest 274 Boycott, Captain 46
Beara Peninsula 170 Connemara 212 Boyle 223
Beatty, Alfred Chester 81 Copeland Islands 284 festivals 340
Beckett, Samuel 67, 276 Dalkey Island 107 Boyle family monument 86–7
Irish revival 27 Ireland’s Eye (Howth) 106 Boyne, Battle of the (1690) 35,
Nobel Prize 50 Lough Neagh 278–9 241, 248
Trinity College (Dublin) 67 Saltee Islands 155 history 42, 43
Bed and breakfast Sheep Island 265 Talbot family 106
accommodation 293, 295 Skellig Islands 169 tapestry 42, 64
Beehive huts 25, 145, 169, 216 Wexford Wildfowl Reserve 154 Boyne Valley 13, 15, 241,
Beer Birr 257 248–9
Brewing of Guinness 102–3 Bishop’s Quarter 192 Bray 137
Guinness Storehouse ® Black and Tans 48, 157 Brecan, St 216
(Dublin) 12, 102 Black Death 41 Brendan, St, the Navigator 31,
Behan, Brendan 26, 27, 105, Black Head (Burren) 192 160, 194, 219
119 Blackwater, River 181 Breweries see Beer
Beit, Alfred, Sir 136, 137 Blackwater Valley 149 Brian Ború 38, 39, 194, 199,
Belfast 12, 13, 15, 280–83 Blarney Castle 14, 158, 175 278
airport 361 Blarney Stone 158, 175 Brigid, St 134
buses 370, 373 Blarney Woollen Mills 175 Brigit’s Garden (Roscahill) 213
city centre map 280–81 Blasket Centre, Dingle Bristol, Frederick Hervey, Earl
ferries 364 Peninsula tour 14, 162 of 264
festivals 52, 54, 340 Blasket Islands 26 Broighter Gold Boat 37
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 375 08/03/17 11:08 am
376 GENER AL INDEX
Bronze Age 36–7, 70–71 Cape Clear Island 174 Cassels, Richard (cont.)
Brooke, Basil, Sir 234 Caravaggio, Michelangelo Powerscourt 138–9
Browne family 208 The Taking of Christ 75 Rotunda Hospital (Dublin)
Brownshill Dolmen 145 Caravans and motor homes 90, 94
Brú Ború Cultural Centre 294, 295 Russborough House 45,
(Cashel) 199 Carlingford 241, 246 136–7
Bruce, Edward 40, 278 hotels 302 Strokestown Park 222
Bruce, Robert, King of restaurants 322 Westport House 208
Scotland 270 Carndonagh Cross, Inishowen Castle Archdale Country Park,
Budget travel 352 Peninsula tour 230 Lower Lough Erne tour 275
Buite, St 246 Carnlough 271 Castle Caldwell Forest, Lower
Bull Point 270 Carrick-a-rede Rope Bridge 13, Lough Erne tour 274
Bunbeg 228 265 Castle Coole 25, 276
Buncrana, Inishowen Carrickfergus 279 Castles and fortifications
Peninsula tour 230 festivals 53 Ashford Castle (Cong) 213
Bunglass Point 233 Carrick-on-Shannon 189, 239 Athlone Castle 253
Bunratty Castle and Folk Park hotels 300 Aughnanure Castle 213
15, 196–7 restaurants 320 Ballyhack Castle 152
Bureau de Change 356 Carrick-on-Suir 203 Barryscourt Castle 181
Burges, William 179 Carrigafoyle Castle 160 Belfast Castle 283
Burgh, William de 202 Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Birr Castle 257
Burke, Éamonn 41 Cemetery 239 Black Castle (Lough Gur) 199
Burke, Edmund 66 Carrowmore Megalithic Blackrock Castle 181
Burne-Jones, Edward, Sir 149 Cemetery 238 Blarney Castle 14, 158, 175
Burren 14, 190–2 Cars Bourchier’s Castle (Lough
map 192 breakdown services 365, 367 Gur) 199
Buses 370–71 car hire 365, 367 Buncrana Castle 230
airport 360–61 driving in Belfast 373 Bunratty Castle 15, 196–7
Belfast 373 driving in Dublin 372 Cahir Castle 202
bus/ferry ticket 363 fuel 365 Carrickfergus Castle 40–41,
bus tours 370–71 insurance 365 53, 279
Dublin 372 parking 366 Carrigafoyle Castle 160
port connections 363, 364 road conditions 365 Carrignacurra Castle 175
Bushmills 270 road maps 365 Castle Matrix (Rathkeale) 188
Butler family (Earls of road signs 365 Charles Fort (Kinsale) 176
Ormonde) 129, 185 rules of the road 365 City Walls of Derry 263
Cahir Castle 202 security roadblocks 366 Clock Tower (Youghal) 183
Clonmel 203 speed limits 365 Dalkey Castle 107
Kilkenny 146 what you need 365 Desmond Castle (Adare) 198
Kilkenny Castle 127, 148 Carson, Edward 48, 280, 283 Desmond Castle (Kinsale)
Ormond Castle (Carrick-on- Carthage, St 149 181
Suir) 203 Casement, Roger 160 Doe Castle (Rosguill
St Patrick’s Cathedral Cashel 13, 199 Peninsula) 229
(Dublin) 87 Cormac’s Chapel 39 Donegal Castle 234
Swiss Cottage (Cahir) 202–3 pub mural 18 Dublin Castle 12, 58, 78,
tombs 148 restaurants 317 80–81
Rock of Cashel 126, 185, Dunguaire Castle 218
C 200–201 Dunluce Castle 12, 13, 15,
Cadamstown 257 Casino Marino 44–5, 104 265
Caha Mountains 170 Cassels, Richard 25 Dunree Fort (Inishowen
Cahir 202–203 Belvedere House (Mullingar) Peninsula) 230
Cahirciveen, Ring of Kerry tour 253 Dunseverick Castle 265
168 Connolly’s Folly (Castletown Dysert O’Dea Castle 193
Camping 294, 295 House) 133 Elizabeth Fort (Cork) 180
Canoeing 345 Leinster House (Dublin) 69 Enniskillen Castle 276
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GENER AL INDEX 377
Castles and fortifications Cathedrals (cont.) Causeway Coast 12, 265
(cont.) Cathedral of St Carthage Cavan, County 241
Glenveagh Castle 228–9 (Lismore) 149 Cave Hill (Belfast) 283
Green Castle 289 Cathedral of St Nicholas Caves
Harry Avery’s Castle (Galway) 214 Aillwee Cave (Burren)
(Newtownstewart) 273 Christ Church Cathedral 192
Hillsborough Castle 285 (Dublin) 12, 58, 76, 78, Bruce’s Cave (Rathlin Island)
Hillsborough Fort 285 84–5 270
Kilclief Castle 288 Christchurch Cathedral Doolin Cave 192
Kilkenny Castle 14, 127, 128, (Waterford) 150 Dunmore Cave 148
147, 148 Clonfert Cathedral 219 Marble Arch Caves 277
Kinbane Castle 265 Down Cathedral Céide Fields 208
King John’s Castle (Downpatrick) 285 Celts
(Carlingford) 246 Holy Trinity Cathedral Celtic heritage 30–31
King John’s Castle (Limerick) (Waterford) 150 Christianity 38–9
195 Kilfenora 192 Craggaunowen: the Living
Knappogue Castle 193 Rock of Cashel 201 Past 194
Leamaneagh Castle 192 St Aidan’s Cathedral high crosses 247
Lismore Castle 149 (Enniscorthy) 153 history 35, 36–7
Malahide Castle 106 St Anne’s Cathedral (Belfast) Ceramics and china
Monea Castle 275 280 Belleek Pottery 273
Mound of Down St Brigid’s Cathedral (Kildare) Nicholas Mosse Pottery
(Downpatrick) 285 134–5 (Bennettsbridge) 13, 148
Ormond Castle (Carrick-on- St Canice’s Cathedral shops 333, 335
Suir) 203 (Kilkenny) 148 What to buy in Ireland 337
Parke’s Castle (Lough Gill) St Colman’s Cathedral Chambers, William, Sir
237 (Cobh) 182 Casino Marino 44–5, 104
Portumna Castle 219 St Columb’s Cathedral Trinity College (Dublin) 66
Rathlannon Castle 155 (Londonderry) 262, 263 Charlemont, Ist Earl of 44–5,
Reginald’s Tower (Waterford) St Declan’s Cathedral 104
150 (Ardmore) 149 Charles Fort (Kinsale) 176
Rock of Dunamase 257 St Eunan’s Cathedral Chester Beatty Library (Dublin)
Roscommon Castle 222 (Letterkenny) 231 12, 81
Roscrea Castle 199 St Fin Barre’s Cathedral (Cork) Chesterfield, 4th Earl of 100
Ross Castle (Killarney) 166 179 Chieftains 28
Slade Castle 152 St Flannan’s Cathedral Children, travelling with 352
Slane Castle 249 (Killaloe) 194 Children of Lir 31
St Lawrence Gate St John’s Cathedral Children of Lir (Kelly) 95
(Drogheda) 248 (Limerick) 195 Christ Church Cathedral
Talbot Castle 252 St Mary’s Cathedral (Dublin) 12, 58, 76, 78,
Thoor Ballylee (Gort) 218–19 (Limerick) 195 84–5
Trim Castle 252 St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral Christianity
Tully Castle 274 (Dublin) 91, 93 Celtic 38–9
Tullynally Castle 245 St Patrick’s Cathedral St. Patrick 35, 38
Tynte’s Castle (Youghal) 183 (Armagh) 278 Churches
Watch Tower (Waterford) 150 St Patrick’s Cathedral Chantry Chapel (Adare) 198
see also Martello towers (Dublin) 58, 86–7 Chapel Royal (Dublin Castle)
Castletownbere 170 St Patrick’s Cathedral (Trim) 80
Castletown House 132–3 252 Church of St Mary (Youghal)
Castle Ward (Strangford) 288 Catholic Church 183
Castleward Opera (Strangford) emancipation 45 Collegiate Church of St
53 Protestant conquest 35, Nicholas (Galway) 214
Castlewellan Forest Park 288 42–3 Costello Chapel (Carrick-on-
Cathedrals Catholic University of Ireland Shannon) 239
Ardfert Cathedral 160 (Dublin) 65 Gallarus Oratory 161
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 377 08/03/17 11:08 am
378 GENER AL INDEX
Churches (cont.) Clothes Cork and Kerry (cont.)
Grey Friars (Waterford) 150 in restaurants 304 Cork Film Festival 54
Layde Old Church shops 110, 111, 334 Cork Jazz Festival 54
(Cushendall) 271 What to buy in Ireland 336 Cork Week 33
St Anne’s Shandon (Cork) Cobh 182–3 Corlea Trackway 244–5
178 Cole family 276, 277 Corrib, Lough 213
St Ann’s Church (Dublin) 62, Coleraine 264 Corrigan, Mairead 50
65 Collins, Michael 49, 105 Costello, Edward 239
St Audoen’s Church (Dublin) Colman, St 210 Costello, John A 50
83 Colman MacDuagh, St 218 Cottages 24
St Mary’s (New Ross) 153 Columba, St 38 Country house
St Mary’s Dominican Church Colmcille Heritage Centre accommodation 292, 295
(Cork) 180 (Gartan) 229 Country houses 25
St Michan’s Church (Dublin) Glencolmcille 232 Avondale House (Rathdrum)
96 Kells Monastery 245 145
St Multose Church (Kinsale) Londonderry 262–3 Bantry House 172–3
176 Tory Island 228 Belvedere House (Mullingar)
St Nicholas Church (Adare) Columbanus, St 38 253
198 Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann Blarney House 175
St Nicholas’ Church (Monkstown) 107, 339 Casino Marino 44–5
(Carrickfergus) 278 Communications 358–9 Castle Coole 25, 276
St Werburgh’s Church Cong 213 Castletown House 132–3
(Dublin) 78 Connaught 205 Castle Ward (Strangford) 288
Teampall Chiaráin Connemara Clonalis House (Castlerea)
(Inishmore) 216 landscape 23 222
Teampall Mor (Devenish map 211 Damer House (Roscrea) 199
Island) 275 National Park 15, 126, 212 Derrynane House 168
Whitefriar Street Carmelite wildlife 212–13 Emo Court 45, 257
Church (Dublin) 87 Connemara National Park 15, Florence Court 277
Cinema see Film 126, 212 Fota House 182
City Hall (Dublin) 78, 81 Connolly, James 49, 101 Glin Castle 188
Civil War 48–9, 96–7, 157 Connolly, William 132, 133 Johnstown Castle 154–5
The Claddagh (Galway) 215 Conversion chart 353 Killruddy House 131, 137
Clan na Gael 47 Cookstown 272 King House (Boyle) 223
Clare, County 14, 186 Coole Park (Gort) 219 Lissadell House (Carney) 235
Clare, Richard de see Cooley, Thomas 81 Mount Stewart House 12, 15,
Strongbow Cooley Peninsula 246 127, 284, 286–7
Clare Island 210 Copeland Islands 284 Muckross House (Killarney)
Clarke, Harry 179 Coral Strand Beach 211 163, 166
The Meeting of St Brendan and Cork 14, 157, 178–81 Powerscourt 14, 127, 131,
the Unhappy Judas 178 airport 360, 361 138–9
Cleggan 211 City centre map 178–9 Puxley Mansion (Allihies) 170
Clifden 13, 15, 210–11 ferries 362, 363 Russborough House 45,
hotels 300 festivals 52, 54, 340 136–7
restaurants 318 hotels 298 Strokestown Park 222–3
Clifden Bay 211 restaurants 314 Westport House 15, 208
Climate 53–5 Cork, Richard Boyle, Earl of County Wexford Strawberry
Clonakilty 174 86–7 Festival 53
Clonalis House (Castlerea) 222 Cork and Kerry 157–83 County Wicklow Garden
Clonfert Cathedral 219 hotels 298–9 Festival 52, 340, 341
Clonmacnoise Monastery 35, map 158–9 Courcy, John de 40, 279, 285
39, 242, 254–5 pubs 327–8 Craft shops 333, 335
Clonmel 203 restaurants 313–16 Craggaunowen 194
Clontarf, Battle of (1014) 38, travel 158 Cramillion, Bartholomew 94
39, 83 Cork Choral Festival 52 Crannogs 37, 244
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 378 08/03/17 11:08 am
GENER AL INDEX 379
Crawford, William Horatio 178 DART rail service 363, 368, 372 Dolmens 36
Credit cards 304, 332, 356 Davitt, Michael 47 Brownshill 145
Crime 354 Dawson, Joshua 65 Legananny 36, 288
Croagh Patrick 209 Deane, Thomas, Sir 69 Poulnabrone 192
Crohy Head 232 De Burgo family 219, 231 Donaghadee 284
Croke Park (Dublin) 33, 54 Declan, St 149 Donegal 234
Cromwell, Oliver 43, 175, 248 Degas, Edgar, Beach Scene 95 hotels 301
Cromwellian forces Delaney, Edward 65 restaurants 320
Carrigafoyle Castle 160 Delphi 207 Donegal, County 15, 225
Drogheda 43, 248 Democratic Unionist Party Donegal Craft Village 234
Galway 214 (DUP) 51 Doolin 14, 188, 192
Inishbofin 210 Department stores 108, 111 hotels 299
Kilkenny 148 Derg, Lough 187, 189, 234 restaurants 317
Muckross Abbey 166 Derrynane House, Ring of Dooney Rock, Yeats Country
Rock of Dunamase 257 Kerry tour 168 tour 237
Ross Castle (Killarney) 166 Derry see Londonderry Downpatrick 12, 15, 285
Wexford 154 Derryveagh Mountains 228–9 Dowth 249
Crookhaven 171 Desmond, Earls of 181, 199 Doyle, Roddy 27
Crown Liquor Saloon (Belfast) Desmond rebellion (1582) 42 Drogheda 248
273 De Valera, Eamon 49 Drogheda, Siege of (1649) 43,
Cruinniú na mBád (Kinvara) 53 Anglo-Irish Treaty (1921) 248
Cruising and sailing 345 48 Drombeg Stone Circle 14, 174
Crystal and glassware Catholic University of Ireland Druids 30
shops 333, 335 65 Drumcliff, Yeats Country tour
Waterford Crystal 151 Garden of Remembrance 236
What to buy in Ireland 337 (Dublin) 95 Drumlane Abbey 244
Cúchulainn 26, 30 grave 105 Dublin 57–123
Cullen, Cyril 199 imprisonment 101 airport 360
Cultural breaks 340, 341 Presidency 50 buses 363, 370, 371, 372
Cumann na nGaelheal 49 Devenish Island (Lower Lough DART rail service 363, 368,
Cumin, John, Archbishop 84, Erne) 39, 275 372
86 Devil’s Glen (Co.Wicklow) 143 entertainment 112–19
The Curragh Racecourse 135 Dingle 13, 14, 161 ferries 362, 363
Currency 357 Dingle Peninsula tour 163 festivals 52–5
Cushendall 271 hotels 298 Further Afield 99–107
Custom House (Dublin) 45, 59, restaurants 314–15 Georgian terraces 73
88, 91, 92 Dingle Peninsula 13, 14 hotels 296–7
Customs information 350 hotels 298 Luas (light rail) 368, 371, 372
Cycling 343, 346 landscape 22 map 58–9
Belfast 373 tour of 162–3 North of the Liffey 89–97
Dublin 372 Disabled travellers restaurants 308–11
touring 366 accommodation 295–6 shopping 79, 108–11
train services 368 facilities 352, 353 Southeast Dublin 61–75
sports 345, 347 Southwest Dublin 77–87
D Discounts Street Finder 120–23
Dáil Éireann 48, 65, 69 admission charges 351 tourist information 116
Dalkey 107 children 352 train services 368
Dalkey Island 107 ferry crossings 364 travelling within 372–3
Dance student 352 Trinity College 12, 19, 66–7
classical 113, 339, 341 train services 369 Two days in Dublin 12
traditional 28, 29, 107, 113, Distilleries see Whiskey Dublin Castle 12, 58, 78, 80–81
339, 341 Dixon, James 228 Dublin Docklands 105
Dan O’Hara’s Homestead DLR Poetry Now Festival (Dun Dublin Docklands Maritime
(Clifden) 15, 211 Laoghaire) 52 Festival 52
d’Arcy, John 210 Doagh Beg 229 Dublin Exhibition (1853) 47
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 379 08/03/17 11:08 am
380 GENER AL INDEX
F
Dublin Fringe Festival 54 Éire 49, 50
Dublin: Further Afield 99–107 Electricity 353 Fáilte Ireland 338, 350
area map 99 Elizabeth I, Queen of England Fair Head 271
hotels 296–7 183 Fairies 30
restaurants 311 Grace O’Malley 210 Famine see Great Famine
Dublin Horse Show 53 Trinity College (Dublin) 66 Fanad Peninsula 229
Dublinia and the Viking World Elizabeth II, Queen of England Farmhouse accommodation
(Dublin) 12, 78, 83 51, 95 293, 295
Dublin Pride 53 Emain Macha 278 Fashion shops 110, 334, 335
Dublin Theatre Festival 54 Embassies 353 Feakle Festival 339, 341
Dublin Writers Museum 95 Emergencies 355 Feast of St Kevin amid the Ruins
Dunbeg Fort, Dingle Peninsula Emigration 19, 46–7, 182, of Glendalough (Peacock) 34
tour 163 273 Fechin, St 245
Duncannon 152 Emmet, Robert 46, 64, 81 Feis Ceoil (Dublin) 52
Dundalk 246 grave 96 Fenians 47, 178
Dundrum, Mourne Coast tour imprisonment 101 Fermoy 181
289 Emo Court 45, 257 Ferries 362–4
Dunfanaghy 229 Enda, St 216 Aran Islands 217
Dungannon 277 English Market (Cork) 14, 180 Festivals 52–5, 340, 341
Dungloe 232 Ennis 13, 14, 184, 193 Fianna Fáil 49
festivals 53 festivals 52 Film
Dun Laoghaire 106–7 restaurants 317 Dublin 113
ferries 362, 363 Enniscorthy festivals 54, 55, 340
festivals 52 festivals 53 Ireland on screen 27, 169,
Dunluce Castle 12, 13, 15, 265 Rebellion (1798) 129, 153 213, 252
Dunmore Cave 148 Enniskerry 143 Irish Film Institute (Dublin)
Dunmore East 129, 152 Enniskillen 276 82, 113
Dunmore Head, Dingle hotels 303 Fine Gael 49
Peninsula tour 162 Lower Lough Erne tour Finn MacCool 30–31
Dunraven, Earls of 198 275 Giant’s Causeway 127, 266,
Dunree Head, Inishowen restaurants 324–5 267
Peninsula tour 230 Enright, Anne 27 Lough Neagh 278
Dursey Island (Beara Ensor, John 72 Fishing 32, 55, 342–3, 346
Peninsula) 170 Entertainment 339–41 Fitzgerald, Maurice Bacach
Dwyer, Michael 143 banquets 340 181
Dysert O’Dea 185, 193 booking tickets 112, 338 Fitzgerald, ‘Silken’ Thomas 42,
high crosses 247 cinema 113 97
classical music 113, 339 Fitzgerald family (Earls of
E dance 113, 339 Kildare) 129, 185, 188, 198
Easter Rising (1916) Dublin 112–19 Fitzgibbon, Majorie 91
Casement’s arrest 160 festivals 340 Fitzwilliam Square (Dublin) 12,
Garden of Remembrance listings 112, 338 72
(Dublin) 95 major venues 338 Fleadh Nua (Ennis) 52
history 48–9 nightclubs 115 “Flight of the Earls” 42, 259
Kilmainham Gaol (Dublin) opera 113, 339 “Flight of the Wild Geese” 185
101 rock, jazz, blues and country Florence Court 277
O’Connell Street (Dublin) 113, 339 Foley, John
93 theatre 112, 338–9 Daniel O’Connell monument
Economy 20 traditional music and dance 91
Edgeworth, Maria 26 339, 341 Edmund Burke statue 66
Edwards, Hilton 94 Eske, Lough 226 Henry Grattan statue 64
Edwards, John 95 Euro 51, 357 Oliver Goldsmith statue 66
Eida, Tassa 135 European Union 20, 50, 51 Food and drink
Éigse Sliabh Rua (Slieverue) Exploris (Portaferry) 284 Brewing of Guinness 102–3
54 Eyeries 170 cultural breaks 340, 341
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 380 08/03/17 11:08 am
GENER AL INDEX 381
Food and drink (cont.) Gaelic language (cont.) Glenariff Forest Park 271
fast food 305 literature 26 Glenbeg Lough 170
festivals 52, 53, 54 useful words 350 Glenbeigh, Ring of Kerry tour
flavours of Ireland 306–7 Galbally 202 168
picnics 305 Galilei, Alessandro 132–3 Glencar Lough, Yeats Country
shops 109, 333, 335 Gallarus Oratory 161 tour 237
What to buy in Ireland 337 Gallarus Oratory, Dingle Glencolmcille 15, 232–3
Fore Abbey 245 Peninsula tour 163 Glencree, Military Road tour 142
Forest parks Galway 13, 15, 205, 206, 214–15 Glendalough
Avondale Forest Park festivals 53, 54, 340 Lower Lake 140–41
(Rathdrum) 145 hotels 300 Military Road tour 142
Castlewellan Forest Park map 215 Monastery complex 38–9,
288 restaurants 319 144–5
Glenariff Forest Park 271 Galway Arts Festival 53, 340, 341 Glengarriff 171
Lough Key Forest Park 223 Galway Hookers 211, 215, 218 Glengesh Pass 232
Portumna Forest Park 219 Galway Oyster Festival 54 Gleninsheen Gorget 36–7
Slieve Foye Forest Park 246 Galway Race Week 53 Glenmacnass, Military Road
Tollymore Forest Park 289 Gandon, James tour 142
Forts, Prehistoric 24 Bank of Ireland (Dublin) 64 Glen of Aherlow 202
Aran Islands 216–17 Custom House (Dublin) 45, 92 Glens of Antrim 271
Cahermore Stone Fort 192 Emo Court 45, 257 Glenveagh National Park 228
Dún Aonghasa 216 Four Courts (Dublin) 96–7 Glin 188
Dunbeg Fort 163 King’s Inns (Dublin) 96 Gogarty, Oliver St John 107
Dún Duchathair 217 Gap of Dunloe 167 Goldsmith, Oliver 26, 66
Dún Eochla 216 Gap of Mamore, Inishowen Golf 344, 346–7
Dún Eoghanachta 216 Peninsula tour 230 Good Friday Agreement
Grianán Ailigh (Inishowen Garden of Remembrance (1998) 19, 35, 51
Peninsula) 230, 231 (Dublin) 95 Gore-Booth family 235
Hill of Tara 252 Gardiner, Luke 92 Gort, Lord 196, 197
Lios-na-gCon Ring Fort Garnish Island 170–71 Gougane Barra Park 175
(Clonakilty) 174 Garryduff Gold Bird 39 Government of Ireland Act
Navan Fort (Armagh) 278 Garthorne, Francis 85 (1920) 35, 48
Rock of Dunamase 257 Gate Theatre (Dublin) 12, 90, Grafton Street (Dublin) 62, 64
Staigue Fort (Sneem) 169 94, 112, 118 Graiguenamanagh 130, 153
Fota Island General Post Office (Dublin) Grand Canal 134
Fota House and Gardens 182 90, 93 Grand Opera House (Belfast)
Fota Wildlife Park 182–3 Easter Rising 49, 93 280
Four Courts (Dublin) 96–7 Geokaun Mountain and Grattan, Henry 44, 82
Foxford 209 Fogher Cliffs 168 statue 64
Foxford Woollen Mills 209 George III, King of England 172 Greater Dublin, maps 17
Foyle, Lough 231 George IV, King of England 65, Great Famine (1845-48) 35, 46,
Foynes 188 80 223
French, Percy 289 Georgian Ireland 44–5 Dunbrody Famine Ship (New
Friaries see Monasteries and Dublin terraces 73 Ross) 152
friaries Giant’s Causeway 13, 15, 127, emigration 19
Fungi (dolphin) 161, 163 265, 266–7, 268–9 Famine Museum
Fureys 28 Giant’s Ring (Belfast) 283 (Strokestown Park) 223
Gift shops 109, 111 Great Music in Irish Houses 53,
G Gill, Lough 236–7 340, 341
Gaelic Athletic Association 33, Gladstone, William Ewart 47 Great Sugar Loaf, Military Road
47 Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin) tour 142
Gaelic football 32, 33, 54, 342, 105 Greencastle, Inishowen
346 Glassware Peninsula tour 231
Gaelic language 21 shops 333, 335 Green Castle, Mourne Coast
Gaeltacht 205, 233 What to buy in Ireland 337 tour 289
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382 GENER AL INDEX
Green Ireland 353 High Crosses (cont.) Hugh Lane Gallery (Dublin)
Gregory, Augusta, Lady 26, 94 Kilkieran 203 95, 113
Abbey Theatre (Dublin) 92 Monasterboice 246, 247 Hume, John 19
Coole Park (Gort) 218–19 Rock of Cashel 200 Hungry Hill (Beara Peninsula)
Greyhound racing 33, 342, 346 Hill, Arthur 285 170
Grianán Ailigh (Inishowen Hill, Derek 228, 229 Hunt, John 194, 195
Peninsula) 230, 231 Hill of Tara 15, 241, 248, 252 Hurling 32, 33, 54, 342, 346
Gris, Juan, Pierrot 74 Hillsborough 285 Hyde, Douglas 65, 87
Guaire, King of Connaught 218 History 35–51
Guesthouses 292–3, 295 Holy Cross Abbey (Thurles) 199 I
Guildhall (Londonderry) 263 Holy Island (Co.Cork) 175 Inchagoill 213
Guinness Holy Island (Lough Derg) 194 Inchydoney 174
Brewing of Guinness 102–3 Home Rule 35, 46, 47, 48 Inishbofin 210
Guinness Storehouse ® Hook Head 152 Inishowen Peninsula, tour of
(Dublin) 12, 102 Hook Peninsula 152 230–31
history 45 Horn Head 15, 229 Inis Saimer 235
Guinness, Arthur 45, 102, 103 Horse Ploughing Match and Inistioge 153
Guinness, Benjamin, Sir 86 Heavy Horse Show Innisfree, Isle of, Yeats Country
Gur, Lough 198–9 (Ballycastle) 52 tour 237
Horses Insurance
H beach races 54 car 365
Hag’s Head (Cliffs of Moher) 188 fairs 54 travel and health 355
Hallowe’en (Samhain) 54 National Stud (Tully) 135 Internet 359
Hall-Walker, William 135 racing 21, 32–3, 53, 55, 135, Interpretative Centres 352
Hambletonian (Stubbs) 287 342, 346 Céide Fields 208
Handel, George Frideric riding and pony trekking Hill of Tara 252
Messiah 44, 85 344, 347 Newgrange 249
St Michan’s Church (Dublin) shows 33, 52, 53 Irish Free State 19, 35, 49, 69
96 Hospitals 355 Irish National Heritage Park
Hanly, Daithí 95 Hotels 292–303 (Ferrycraig) 154
Ha’penny Bridge (Dublin) 97 bed and breakfast Irish Republican Army (IRA)
Hargrave, William 180 accommodation 293, 295 ceasefire 19, 51
Harrington, Padraig 51 booking 295 Enniskillen bombing 51
Health 355 Cork and Kerry 298–9 history 49
Healy Pass (Beara Peninsula) 170 country house Troubles 35, 50
Heaney, Séamus 27 accommodation 292, 295 Irish Republican Brotherhood
Henry, Mitchell 212 disabled travellers 295–6 47
Henry II, King of England 35, Dublin 296–7 Irish Volunteers (18th Century)
40, 154 farmhouses 293, 295 45
Henry VIII, King of England 35, guesthouses 292–3, 295 Irish Volunteers (20th Century)
85 Lower Shannon 299–300 95
Heritage Card 351 Midlands 302 Iron Age 24, 36, 70, 210
Heritage Week 54 Northern Ireland 302–303 Itineraries
Higgins, Michael D 51 Northwest Ireland 301–302 map 10–11
High Crosses 247 prices 295 One week in Ireland 10, 13
Ahenny 203, 247 self-catering 293, 295 Three days in Northern
Ardboe Old Cross 272 Southeast Ireland 297–8 Ireland 11, 12–13
Armagh 278 tipping 295 Two days in Dublin 12
Carndonagh 230 West of Ireland 300–1 Two weeks in Ireland 11,
Clonmacnoise 254 Houghton, Ray 51 14–15
Drumcliff 236 House and apartment rentals
Dysert O’Dea 185, 193, 247 295 J
Glendalough 144 House rentals 293 Jackson, Andrew 278
Kells Monastery 245 Howth 106 James I, King of England 244,
Kilfenora 192 Hozier 28 277
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 382 08/03/17 11:08 am
GENER AL INDEX 383
James II, King of England Kildare, 8th Earl of 41, 42, 85, 87 Knitwear and tweed (cont.)
Battle of the Boyne (1690) see also Fitzgerald family Blarney Woollen Mills 175
35, 42, 43, 248 Kilfenora 192 Foxford Woollen Mills 209
Christ Church Cathedral Kilkenny 13, 14, 146–8 shops 334, 335
(Dublin) 85 Castle 127, 128, 148 Knock 209
Siege of Derry (1689) 42–3 festivals 52, 53, 340 Ireland West Airport 360, 361
James Joyce Tower hotels 297 Knocknarea 238
(Sandycove) 107 restaurants 312 Knowth 15, 249
Jameson, John 96 Street-by-Street map 146–7 Koralek, Paul 66
Jameson Dublin International Kilkenny, Statutes of (1366) 41 Kylemore Abbey 15, 212
Film Festival 55 Kilkenny Arts Festival 53
Jerpoint Abbey 149 Kilkenny Cat Laughs 52 L
Jewellery shops 334, 335 Kilkieran 203 Lacy, Hugh de 252
John Paul II, Pope 50, 100, Killahoey Strand 229 “Lady Betty” 222
209 Killaloe 189, 194 Lafrancini, Paolo and Filippo
Johnson, Esther (Stella) 86, 87 Killarney 13, 163 25
Johnston, Denis 94 hotels 299 Castletown House 133
Johnston, Francis 80, 96 lakes of 126, 166–7 Newman House (Dublin)
Joyce, James 27, 94 restaurants 315 65
Bloomsday (Dublin) 52 Ring of Kerry tour 169 Russborough House 136
bust of 64 Killiney 107 Land League 47
Catholic University of Ireland Killorglin Landscape 22–3
65 festivals 53 A Landscape (Roberts) 74
James Joyce Centre (Dublin) Ring of Kerry tour 169 Land War (1879-82) 47
90, 94 Killruddy House and Gardens Lane, Hugh 95
James Joyce Tower 131, 137 Language and culture 21
(Sandycove) 107 Killybegs 233 Lansdowne, Marquess of 170
statue 91 Kilmacduagh 218 Lanyon, Charles, Sir
Ulysses 52, 94, 107, 193 Kilmainham Gaol (Dublin) 49, Custom House (Belfast) 283
Judith with the Head of 101 Queen’s University (Belfast)
Holofernes (Mantegna) 75 Kilmalkedar, Dingle Peninsula 282
tour 163 Trinity College (Dublin) 66
K Kilmore Quay 155 Larkin, James, statue 93
Kanturk 181 Kilmurvey 216 Larne 278
Kavanagh, Patrick 27 Kilronan 217 ferries 364
Keadue, festivals 53 Kilrush 188 Last Circuit of Pilgrims at
Kearney, Kate 166 King’s Inns (Dublin) 96 Clonmacnoise (Petrie) 254
Keenan, Paddy 28 Kinnitty 257 Lawless, Matthew James, The
Kells Kinsale 14, 159 Sick Call 75
Book of Kells 68 festivals 54 Laytown Beach Races 52, 54
monastery 39, 245 hotels 299 Leane, Lough 167
Kelly, Oisín, Children of Lir 95 restaurants 316 Leap Card (Dublin) 372
Kenmare 14, 170 Street-by-Street map 176–7 Lecale Peninsula 288
hotels 298–9 Kinsale International Festival Lee, River 175
restaurants 315 of Fine Food 54 Blackrock 181
Kennedy, John F 50 Kinvara 218 Cork 178–9, 180
JFK Memorial Park (New festivals 53 Lee, Thomas, Sir 42
Ross) 153 Knappogue Castle 193 Lee Valley Park and Steam
Kennedy Homestead Knights of Glin 188 Railway 161
(Dunganstown) 153 Knights Templar 152 Legananny Dolman 36, 288
Kevin, St 144, 145 Knightstown (Valentia Island) Leinster Aqueduct 134
Key, Lough 189, 223 168 Leinster House (Dublin) 63,
Kilbeggan 253 Knitwear and tweed 69
Kildare 134–5 Ardara 232 Leitrim, County 225
restaurants 312 Avoca Handweavers 143 Lennox, Louisa, Lady 132–3
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 383 08/03/17 11:08 am
384 GENER AL INDEX
Leopardstown Races 55, 342 Loop Head Drive 188 Malachy, St 249
Leprechauns 30, 97 Lost property 354 Malinbeg 233
Letterkenny 231 Lough Key Experience 223 Malin Head, Inishowen
restaurants 321 Lough Key Forest Park 223 Peninsular tour 231
Libraries Lough Navar Forest Drive, Mallow 181
Chester Beatty Library Lower Lough Erne tour 274 Malone, Molly, statue 64
(Dublin) 12, 81 Lough Ree Trail 253 Mansion House (Dublin) 62,
Linen Hall Library (Belfast) 281 Loughros Point 232 65
Marsh’s Library (Dublin) 87 Louisburgh 210 Mantegna, Andrea
National Library (Dublin) 63, Lower Lough Erne tour 274–5 Judith with the Head of
69 Lower Shannon 185–203 Holofernes 75
Old Library, Trinity College hotels 299–300 Maps
(Dublin) 59 map 186–7 Aran Islands 216–17
Liffey, River 77 pubs 328–9 Belfast City Centre 280–81
Lighthouses restaurants 316–18 Burren Region 192
Baily Lighthouse (Howth) 106 travel 186 Causeway Coast 265
Fanad Head Lighthouse 224 Loyalist paramilitaries 35 Connemara 211
Hook Head 152 Luas (Dublin) 368, 371, 372 Cork and Kerry 158–9
Limerick 13, 15, 189, 195 Lughnasa Fair (Carrickfergus) Cork city 178–9
history 39 53 Dingle Peninsula tour 162–3
hotels 299–300 Lusitania (ship) 182 Dublin 58–9
restaurants 318 Lynch family 214 Dublin: Around O’Connell
Shannon Airport 360, 361 Street 90–91
siege of 185, 195 M Dublin: Best entertainment
Treaty of (1691) 185, 195 McAleese, Mary 20, 51 118–19
Linen 45, 272 McCann, Colum 27 Dublin: Further Afield 99
shops 334, 335 McCarthy, Dermot 175 Dublin: Greater Dublin 17
Wellbrook Beetling Mill 272 McCormack, John 28, 93, 134 Dublin: North of the Liffey 89
What to buy in Ireland 337 MacDonnell clan 265, 271 Dublin: Outer Dublin
Linen Hall Library (Belfast) 281 MacDonnell, Sorley Boy 270 transport network 368
Lios-na-gCon Ring Fort 174 McDyer, James, Father 232–3 Dublin: Southeast 61, 62–3
Lisdoonvarna 192 McGuigan, Barry 51 Dublin: Southwest 77, 78–9
festivals 54 Mac Liammóir, Mícheál 94 Dublin: Street Finder 120–3
restaurants 318 MacMahon tomb (Ennis Dublin: Temple Bar area 118
Lisdoonvarna Matchmaking Friary) 193 Galway 215
Festival 54 McMurrough, Art, King of Inishowen Peninsula tour
Lismore 149 Leinster 41 231
Lissadell House (Carney) 235 McMurrough, Dermot, King of Ireland 16–17, 126–7
Yeats Country tour 236 Leinster 39, 40 Ireland (1592) 35
Literature 26–7 MacNamaras clan 193, 196 Kilkenny (Street-by-Street)
cultural breaks 340, 341 MacNeice, Louis 27 146–7
festivals 52 Mack, Robert 82 Kinsale (Street-by-Street)
pubs, literary association Maclise, Daniel 40 176–7
115, 119 Macroom 175 Londonderry 262–3
Little Skellig 169 Maeve, Queen of Connaught Lower Lough Erne tour
Livingstone, David, Dr 72 30, 225, 238 274–5
Locke, Josef 28 Magazines 358 Lower Shannon 186–7
Loftus, Adam 43 listings magazines 112, 338 Midlands 242–3
Londonderry 12, 262–3 Maghery Bay 232 Military Road tour 142
airport 361 Magilligan Point 264 Mourne Coast tour 289
festivals 54 Maginni, Dennis, Prof. 94 North Antrim Coastline 265
hotels 303 Magrath, Miller 201 Northern Ireland 260–61
restaurants 325 Mahon, Denis 223 Northwest Ireland 226–7
Siege of Derry (1689) 42–3, Mahon, Derek 27 Rail network 369
263 Mahon, Thomas 222 Ring of Kerry tour 168–9
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 384 08/03/17 11:08 am
GENER AL INDEX 385
Maps (cont.) Milltown, Joseph Leeson, Earl Money (cont.)
River Shannon 189 of 136 Alcock and Brown Memorial
Southeast Ireland 130–31 Minot, Archbishop 86 (Clifden) 211
Waterford 151 Mizen Head 171 Charles Stewart Parnell
West of Ireland 206–7 Mobile phones 358 (Dublin) 93
Yeats Country tour 236–7 Moher, Cliffs of 13, 14, 188, Cole Monument (Enniskillen)
Marble Arch Caves Global 192 276
Geopark 277 Molaise III, St 275 Connolly’s Folly (Castletown
Marconi, Guglielmo 211, 270 Molloy, Matt 208 House) 133
Marie Antoinette, Queen of Moll’s Gap, Ring of Kerry tour Daniel O’Connell (Dublin) 91,
France 173 169 93
Markets Molly Malone (Rynhart) 64 National Monument (Cork)
Dublin 90, 109 Monaghan 244 180
English Market (Cork) 14, 180 Monaghan, County 241 O’Scully (Rock of Cashel) 200
Markievicz, Constance 48, 65, Monasterboice 246 Rossmore Memorial
105, 235 Monasterevin 134 (Monaghan) 244
Marriage of Strongbow and Monasteries and friaries Scrabo Tower 284
Aoife (Maclise) 40 Ardmore 149 Strongbow (Dublin) 84
Marsh, Narcissus, Archbishop 87 Black Abbey (Kilkenny) 148 Wellington Testimonial
Marsh’s Library (Dublin) 87 Bonamargy Friary (Dublin) 100
Martello towers (Ballycastle) 270 Wolfe Tone (Dublin) 65
Cleggan Hill 211 Clonmacnoise 35, 39, 242, Moore, Henry 64, 66
Dalkey Island 107 254–5 Moore, Thomas 143
Drogheda 248 Devenish Island 275 Moore Abbey (Monasterevin)
Garnish Island 171 Dominican Friary (Cashel) 134
James Joyce Tower 199 Mosse, Bartholomew, Dr 94
(Sandycove) 107 Dominican Friary Motorcycle racing 32, 264
Magilligan Point 264 (Roscommon) 222 Mountaineering 343, 346
Martin, Misses 280 Dysert O’Dea 185, 193 Mountains of Mourne 261,
Mary from Dungloe Ennis Friary 193 288
International Festival 53 Franciscan Friary (Adare) 198 Mount-Sandel 36
Mary I, Queen of England 42 Franciscan Friary (Clonmel) Mountshannon 194
Mary II, Queen of England 248 203 Mount Stewart House 12, 15,
Mason, James 94 Franciscan Friary (Roscrea) 127, 284, 286–7
Matcham, Frank 280 199 Mount Usher Gardens
Matthew, Theobald, Father 46 Glendalough 35, 38–9, (Ashford) 143
statues 93, 180 144–5 Mourne Coast tour 289
Mayo, County 205 Holy Island (Lough Derg) Muckross House (Killarney)
Meeting of the Waters 194 163, 166
(Killarney) 166 Kells Monastery 39, 245 Muiredach’s Cross
Meeting of the Waters (Vale of Kilmacduagh 218 (Monasterboice) 246, 247
Avoca) 143 Monasterboice 246 Mullaghmore 14, 192
Mellon, Thomas 273 Na Seacht Teampaill Mullingar 252–3
Merrion Square (Dublin) 72 (Inishmore) 216 Murlough Bay 271
The Meeting of St Brendan and Quin Franciscan Friary 193 Museums and galleries
the Unhappy Judas (Clarke) Skellig Michael 168–9 admission charges 351
178 St Cronan’s Monastery opening times 351
Midlands 241–57 (Roscrea) 199 Allihies Copper Mine
hotels 302 Monea Castle, Lower Lough Museum 170
map 242–3 Erne tour 275 Andrew Jackson Centre
pubs 330–31 Money 356–7 (Carrickfergus) 278
restaurants 321–3 wiring 356 Archaeology Centre (Dysert
travel 242 Monuments O’Dea) 193
Military Road 14, 143 Albert Memorial Clock Tower Armagh County Museum
Tour of the Military Road 142 (Belfast) 283 278
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 385 08/03/17 11:08 am
386 GENER AL INDEX
Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.) Museums and galleries (cont.)
Beit Art Collection Foynes Flying Boat and Museum of Kerry Folklife
(Russborough House) 136 Maritime Museum 188 (Killarney) 163
Blasket Centre (Dingle Gallery of Photography National 1798 Visitor Centre
Peninsula) 162 (Dublin) 82 (Enniscorthy) 153
Blennerville Windmill 161 Galway City Museum 215 National Gallery of Ireland
Brian Ború Heritage Centre Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin) (Dublin) 12, 59, 74–5
(Killaloe) 194 105 National Leprechaun
Brú Ború Cultural Centre Glebe House and Gallery Museum (Dublin) 97
(Cashel) 199 (Lough Gartan) 229 National Maritime Museum
Bunratty Castle and Folk Park Granuaile Visitor Centre (Dun Laoghaire) 107
15, 196–7 (Louisburgh) 210 National Museum of Ireland
Burren Centre 192 Guinness Storehouse ® - Archaeology (Dublin) 12,
Chester Beatty Library (Dublin) 12, 102 59, 63, 70–71
(Dublin) 81 Holy Trinity Heritage Centre National Museum of Ireland -
Colmcille Heritage and (Carlingford) 246 Country Life (Turlough) 209
Castle (Gartan) 229 Hugh Lane Gallery (Dublin) 95 National Museum of Ireland -
Cork Butter Museum 178 Hunt Museum (Limerick) 195 Decorative Arts & History
Cork City Gaol 179 International Museum of (Dublin) 12, 105
County Museum (Dundalk) Wine (Kinsale) 181 National Museum of Ireland -
246 Irish Agriculture Museum Natural History (Dublin) 72
County Museum (Johnstown Castle) 155 National Photographic
(Monaghan) 244 Irish Museum of Modern Art Archive (Dublin) 82
Craggaunowen: the Living (Dublin) 101, 113 National Print Museum
Past 194 Irish National Heritage Park (Dublin) 104
Crawford Art Gallery (Cork) (Ferrycraig) 154 National Transport Museum
178–9 James Joyce Centre (Dublin) (Howth) 106
Dan O’Hara’s Homestead 90, 94 National Wax Museum Plus
(Clifden) 15, 211 James Joyce Tower (Dublin) 72
Derrynane House (Ring of (Sandycove) 107 Navan Centre (Armagh) 278
Kerry) 169 Kennedy Homestead Old Jameson Distillery
Dixon Gallery (Tory Island) (Dunganstown) 153 (Dublin) 96
228 Kerry County Museum Old Market House (Kinsale)
Donegal County Museum (Tralee) 160 176
(Letterkenny) 231 Kilbeggan Distillery Old Midleton Distillery 183
Donegal Historical Society Experience 253 Project Arts Centre (Dublin)
Museum (Rossnowlagh) Kilmainham Gaol (Dublin) 82
234–5 49, 101 Queenstown Story (Cobh)
Down County Museum King House (Boyle) 223 182
285 King John’s Castle (Limerick) Radio Museum (Cork) 179
Drogheda Museum 248 195 Royal Hibernian Academy
Dublinia and the Viking Knock Museum 209 (Dublin) 72
World (Dublin) 12, 78, 83 Limerick Museum 195 Skellig Experience Centre
Dublin Writers Museum 95 Lismore Heritage Centre 149 168
Dunbrody Famine Ship (New Little Museum of Dublin 65 Sligo County Museum 238
Ross) 152 Lough Neagh Discovery St Patrick’s Trian (Armagh)
Dunree Fort (Inishowen Centre 278 278
Peninsula) 230 Market House (Monaghan) Titanic Belfast 283
Famine Museum 244 Tower Museum
(Strokestown Park) 223 Medieval Museum (Londonderry) 262, 263
Fermangh County Museum (Waterford) 150 Trim Visitor Centre 252
(Enniskillen) 276 Mizen Head Visitors’ Centre Tullamore Dew Heritage
Flame (Carrickfergus) 278 171 Centre 255
Folk Village Museum Model Arts & Niland Gallery Ulster-American Folk Park
(Glencolmcille) 232–3 (Sligo) 15, 238 (Tyrone) 273
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 386 08/03/17 11:08 am
GENER AL INDEX 387
Museums and galleries (cont.) National parks North of the Liffey (Dublin)
Ulster Folk and Transport Connemara National Park 15, 89–97
Museum (Bangor) 15, 284 126 area map 89
Ulster Museum (Belfast) 282 Glenveagh National Park 228 hotels 296
W5 (Belfast) 282–3 Gougane Barra Park 175 restaurants 310–11
The Water Wheels (Assaroe Killarney National Park 166–7 Northwest Ireland 225–39
Abbey) 235 National Trust 351 hotels 301–302
West Cork Regional Museum Nature reserves map 226–7
(Clonakilty) 174 Coole Park (Gort) 219 pubs 330
Wilson Ancestral Home Lee Valley Park (Tralee) restaurants 320–21
(Strabane) 273 161 travel 227
Music 28–9 Peatlands Park (Lough
3Arena (Dublin) 113, 119 Neagh) 278 O
classical music 113, 339, 340 Navan Fort (Armagh) 278 Obama, Barack 51
Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann Neagh, Lough 278–9 O’Brien, Edna 27
(Monkstown) 107 Newcastle 288 O’Brien, Flann 26
current music scene 28 hotels 303 O’Brien family (Earls of
festivals 52–5, 340 Mourne Coast tour 289 Thomond) 193, 196
National Concert Hall Newgrange 13, 15, 36, 37, 249, O’Brien’s Tower (Cliffs of
(Dublin) 113, 119 250–251 Moher) 188
opera 113, 154, 339, 341 Newman, John Henry 65 O’Carolan, Turlough 28, 44, 87,
rock, jazz, blues and country Newman House (Dublin) 65 222
113, 339, 341 New Ross 152–3 O’Carolan Harp and Traditional
shops 110, 332–3, 335 Newspapers 358 Music Festival (Keadue) 53
traditional instruments 29 Newtownards 284 O’Casey, Sean 26, 92
traditional music (Dublin) Nicholas Mosse Pottery O’Connell, Daniel
107, 114 (Bennettsbridge) 13, 148 Catholic emancipation 46
traditional music and dance Nightclubs, Dublin 115, 117 Derrynane House 168
28–9, 160, 339, 341 Nobel prizes 19, 26, 49, 50 Glasnevin Cemetery (Dublin)
Mussenden Temple (Castlrock) North Antrim Coastline 12, 13, 105
264 15, 265 Hill of Tara 252
Myrtle Grove (Youghal) 183 Northern Ireland 259–89 monument 91, 93, 193
Myths and legends 30–31, 97 airports 361 O’Connell Street (Dublin) 59,
banks 356 92–3
N buses 364, 370, 371 Street-by-Street map
Nash, John 202, 223 currency 357 90–91
National Botanic Gardens ferries 364 O’Connor, Joseph 27
(Dublin) 104 history 19, 35 O’Conor, Kings of Connaught
National Concert Hall (Dublin) hotels 302–303 213, 222
113, 119 map 260–61 O’Donnell family 225, 234
National Gallery of Ireland personal safety 354 O’Faolain, Sean 26
(Dublin) 12, 59, 74–5 phoning from 358 O’Flaherty, Donal 213
National Leprechaun Museum pubs 331 O’Flaherty clan 213
(Dublin) 97 restaurants 323–5 O’Floinn, Liam 28
National Library (Dublin) 63, security roadblocks 366 Ogham Stone 38, 194
69 taxis 371 Oktoberfest (Londonderry)
National Museum of Ireland - telephones 358, 359 54
Archaeology (Dublin) 12, 59, trains 368 Old Bushmills Distillery 12–13,
63, 70–71 travel 260 15, 270
National Museum of Ireland - Northern Ireland Assembly 19, Old Jameson Distillery
Country Life (Turlough) 35, 283 (Dublin) 96
209 Northern Ireland Civil Rights Old Mellifont Abbey 39, 249
National Museum of Ireland - Association 50 Old Midleton Distillery 14,
Decorative Arts & History North Mayo Sculpture Trail 183
(Dublin) 12, 105 208 O’Malley, Grace 210, 213
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 387 08/03/17 11:08 am
388 GENER AL INDEX
O’Neill, Brian 40 Parks and gardens Parliament Bridge (Cork) 180
O’Neill family 225, 231, 259, Bamboo Park (Glengarriff) 171 Parnell, Charles Stewart
277 Bantry House 172–3 birthplace 145
One Man’s Pass (Slieve Birr Castle 257 Home Rule campaign 47
League) 233 Botanic Gardens (Belfast) imprisonment 47, 101
Opening times 282 monument 93
attractions 351 Brigit’s Garden (Roscahill) Parsons family 257
banks 356 213 Passage East 151
restaurants 304 Coole Park (Gort) 219 Passage Graves
Opera 339, 341 Florence Court 277 Carrowkeel Passage Tomb
Dublin 113 Fota House and Gardens Cemetery 239
festivals 54, 55 182 Carrowmore Megalithic
Grand Opera House (Belfast) Garden of Remembrance Cemetery 238
280 (Dublin) 95 Dowth 249
Wexford Opera Festival 54, Garnish Island 170–71 Hill of Tara 252
154 Glenveagh Castle 229 Knowth 249
Orange Order 45, 53, 235 Japanese Gardens (Tully) Newgrange 250–51
The Organic Centre 135 Passports 350
(Rossinver) 239 JFK Memorial Park (New Patrick, St 285
Ormonde, Earls of see Butler Ross) 153 Armagh 38, 261, 278
family (Earls of Ormonde) Johnstown Castle 155 Croagh Patrick 209
Ormonde, Thomas, 10th Earl Killruddy House 131 Downpatrick 285
of 203 Killruddy House and feast day festivals 52
Ossian 31 Gardens 137 Grianán Ailigh (Inishowen
grave 37, 271 Kylemore Abbey 212 Peninsula) 231
O’Toole family 143 Lismore Castle 149 Hill of Slane 249
Oughter, Lough 22, 240 Mount Stewart House 127, Hill of Tara 252
Oughterard 213 286–7 Lough Derg 234
Oul’ Lammas Fair (Ballycastle) Mount Usher Gardens mission to Ireland 35, 38,
53 (Ashford) 143 261
Outdoor activities see Sports, Muckross House (Killarney) Rock of Cashel 200
Outdoor activities and 163 Saul 261, 285
Touring National Botanic Gardens Slieve Patrick 285
(Dublin) 104 St Patrick’s Bell 71
P The Organic Centre St Patrick’s Cathedral
Pakenham family 245 (Rossinver) 239 (Dublin) 86
The Pale 40, 136, 241 People’s Garden, Phoenix Struell Wells (Downpatrick)
Palestrina Choir 93 Park (Dublin) 100 285
Palladian architecture 25, 44–5 Powerscourt 14, 127, 131, Peace Bridge (Londonderry)
Belvedere House (Mullingar) 138–9 263
253 Scrabo Country Park 284 Peacock, Joseph
Casino Marino 44–5, 104 Slane Castle 249 Feast of St Kevin amid the Ruins
Castletown House 132–3 St Fiachra’s Garden (Tully) of Glendalough 34
Florence Court 277 135 Pearce, Edward Lovett 64
King House (Boyle) 223 St Stephen’s Green (Dublin) Pearse, Patrick 48, 93
Powerscourt 138 12, 62, 64–5 Peatlands Park (Lough Neagh)
Russborough House 136 Tully Castle 274 278
Strokestown Park 222–3 see also Forest Parks Penn, William, Sir 175
Palladius 38, 285 Parliament Penrose, George and William
Pan Celtic Festival 52 Bank of Ireland building 151
Papal Cross (Dublin) 100 (Dublin) 64 Personal security 354–5
Papworth, George 87 history 40, 44, 45, 48, 50 Peto, Harold 170–71
Parke, Robert, Captain 237 Leinster House (Dublin) 63, Petrie, George
Parke’s Castle (Lough Gill) 69 Last Circuit of Pilgrims at
237 Stormont (Belfast) 283 Clonmacnoise 254
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 388 08/03/17 11:08 am
GENER AL INDEX 389
Petty, William, Sir 170 Prehistoric Ireland (cont.) R
Pharmacies 355 Drombeg Stone Circle 14, Racing
Phoenix Column (Dublin) 100 174 greyhound 33, 342, 346
Phoenix Park (Dublin) 100 Druid’s Circle (Kenmare) horses 21, 32–3, 53, 55, 135,
Picnics 305 170 342, 346
Pierrot (Gris) 74 Dún Aonghasa 216 motorcycle 32, 264
Pillar stones 247 Dún Duchathair 217 yacht 32, 33
Place names 31 Dún Eochla 216 Radio 358
Plantation 42, 43, 259 Giant’s Ring (Belfast) 283 Railways see trains
Plunkett, Joseph 49, 101 Gleninsheen Wedge Tomb Rainfall 54
Plunkett, Oliver 248 192 Raleigh, Walter, Sir 183
Police 354, 355 Grange Stone Circle (Lough Ramsay, Allan 173
Political murals, West Belfast Gur) 198 Rathkeale 188
282 Grianán Ailigh (Inishowen Rathlin Island 270
Politics and religion 19, 20, 35 Peninsula) 230, 231 Rathmelton 229
Pomodoro, Arnaldo Hill of Tara 15, 252 Ratoo Round Tower (Ballyduff)
Sphere within Sphere 63, 66 Interpretative Centres 352 160
Portaferry 284 Knocknarea 238 Raven Point 154
Portora Royal School Knowth 15, 249 Red House (Youghal) 183
(Enniskillen) 276 Legananny Dolman 36, 288 Ree, Lough 189
Portrush 12, 13, 264 Lios-na-gCon Ring Fort Religion 20
Portsalon 229 (Clonakilty) 174 Celtic Christianity 38–9
Portstewart 260, 264 Lough Gur 198–9 history 35, 42–4, 45
restaurants 325 National Museum of Ireland - Religious services 352
Portstewart Strand 264 Archaeology (Dublin) 70–71 Republic of Ireland 50–51
Portumna 189, 219 Navan Fort (Armagh) 278 Restaurants 304–25
Postal services 359 Newgrange 13, 15, 250–51 budget dining 305
Poulaphouca Reservoir 137 Ossian’s Grave 37, 271 Cork and Kerry 313–16
Powerscourt 14, 127, 131, Poulnabrone Dolmen 192 dress code 304
138–9 Turoe Stone 222 Dublin 308–11
Powerscourt, Richard Priories see Abbeys and fish and chips and other fast
Wingfield, Ist Viscount 138 priories food 305
Powerscourt Centre (Dublin) Protestants flavours of Ireland 306–7
79, 82 Battle of the Boyne (1690) gourmet and ethnic dining
Powerscourt Waterfall, Military 248 304–5
Road tour 142 Orange Order 45, 235 how to pay 304
Poynings, Edward 41 Protestant Ascendancy 44–5 Irish eating patterns 304
Prehistoric Ireland 36–7 Protestant conquest 42–3 Lower Shannon 316–18
Beaghmore Stone Circles Ptolemy 37 Midlands 321–3
272 Public holidays 55 Northern Ireland 323–5
Boyne Valley 248–9 Pubs and bars 326–31 Northwest Ireland 320–21
Brownshill Dolmen 145 Belfast 273 opening times 304
Cahermore Stone Fort 192 Cork and Kerry 327–8 pub food 305
Carrowkeel Passage Tomb Dublin 114–15, 118, 119 Southeast Ireland 311–13
Cemetery 227, 239 Lower Shannon 328–9 Riasc, Dingle Peninsula tour
Carrowmore Megalithic Midlands 330–31 162
Cemetery 238 Northern Ireland 331 Richard II, King of England
Céide Fields 208 Northwest Ireland 330 41
Cleggan Hill 211 Southeast Ireland 326–7 Ring of Kerry 13, 14
Connemara National Park West of Ireland 329–30 Road travel 365–7
212 Puck Fair (Killorglin) 53 Roberts, John 150
Corlea Trackway 244 Pugin, Augustus 153 Roberts, Thomas, A Landscape
Craggaunowen 194 74
cultural breaks 340, 341 Q Robertstown 134
Dowth 249 Queen’s University (Belfast) 282 Robinson, Mary 20, 51
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 389 08/03/17 11:08 am
390 GENER AL INDEX
Robinson, William, Sir St Ann’s Church (Dublin) 62, Shopping (cont.)
Dublin Castle 80–81 65 ceramics and china 333, 335
Marsh’s Library (Dublin) 87 St Audoen’s Church (Dublin) crafts 333, 335
Royal Hospital Kilmainham 83 crystal and glassware 333,
(Dublin) 101 St Mary’s Abbey (Dublin) 335
Roche, Stephen 51 97 department stores 108, 111
Rock of Cashel 12, 126, 185, St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral Dublin 108–11
199, 200–201 (Dublin) 91, 93 fashion 110, 111, 334, 335
Rock of Dunamase 257 St Michan’s Church (Dublin) food and drink 109, 333, 335
Romans 37 96 galleries 110
Roscommon 222 St Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin) how to pay 332
Roscrea 199 58, 86–7 jewellery 334, 335
Rose of Tralee Festival 53 St Patrick’s Festival 52 knitwear and tweed 334,
Rosguill Peninsula 229 St Stephen’s Day 55 335
The Rosses 15, 232 St Stephen’s Green (Dublin) linen 334, 335
Rosses Point, Yeats Country 12, 62, 64–5 markets 109, 111
tour 236 Sales tax and refunds 332 music 110, 332–3, 335
Rossinver 239 Sally Gap, Military Road tour opening times 332
Rosslare 155 142 sales tax and refunds 332
ferries 362, 363 Salmon and Sea Trout Season shopping centres 108–9
Rossnowlagh 234–5 55 souvenirs and gifts 109, 111
Rostrevor, Mourne Coast tour Saltee Islands 155 What to buy in Ireland 336–7
289 Salthill 215 where to shop 332
Rothe House (Kilkenny) 146 Sandycove 107 Siamsa Tíre National Folk
Rotunda Hospital (Dublin) 44, Saul 285 Theatre (Tralee) 160, 339
90, 94 Sayers, Peig 26 The Sick Call (Lawless) 75
Roundstone 15, 211 Scattery Island 188 The Siege of Derry (Sadler) 42–3
Round towers 24, 25 Schomberg, General 279 Silent Valley (Mourne Coast)
Ardmore 149 Schull 171 288, 289
Devenish Island 275 Scrabo Country Park 284 Simnel, Lambert 41, 85
Drumlane 244 Scurlogstown Olympiad Celtic Sinn Féin 48, 49, 51, 92
Glendalough 144, 145 Festival (Trim) 52 Sitric Silkbeard 39, 84
Kildare 134 SDLP 19 Six Nations Rugby
Kilmacduagh 218 Seanad Éireann 69 Tournament (Dublin) 55
Ratoo (Ballyduff) 160 Self-catering accommodation Skellig Islands 168–9
Scattery Island 188 293 Skellig Michael 156, 168–9
Roundwood, Military Road Severin, Tim 194 Skibbereen 171
tour 142 Shannon, River 189 Sky Road 15, 211
Royal Canal 46, 252–3 Shannon Airport 360, 361 Slade 152
Royal College of Surgeons Shannon-Erne Waterway 239 Slane 249
(Dublin) 64, 65 Shaw, George Bernard 26 Slea Head, Dingle Peninsula
Royal Dublin Society 44, 69, 113 Coole Park (Gort) 219 tour 162
Royal Hibernian Academy Glengarriff 171 Slieve Bloom Mountains 257
(Dublin) 72 National Gallery of Ireland Slieve Bloom Way 257
Royal Hospital Kilmainham (Dublin) 74 Slieve Donard 288
(Dublin) 101 Nobel Prize 49 Slieve Foye Forest Park 246
Royal School (Dungannon) Sheares, Henry and John 96 Slieve League 233
277 Sheep Island 265 Slieve Patrick 285
Rugby 32, 55, 342, 346 The Shelbourne (Dublin) 63, Slieverue, festivals 54
Russborough House 136–7 65 Sligo 13, 15, 225, 238
Rynhart, Jean, Molly Malone 64 Sheridan, Richard Brinsley 26 hotels 301
Sherkin Island 174 restaurants 321
S Shopping 332–7 W.B. Yeats 237, 238
Sadler, William II, The Siege of antiques 110, 111 Yeats Country tour 236
Derry 42–3 books 110, 111, 332, 335 Sligo, County 225
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GENER AL INDEX 391
Sligo International Choral Stapleton, Michael (cont.) Taxis 371
Festival 54 James Joyce Centre (Dublin) Tay, Lough, Military Road tour
Smithfield (Dublin) 96 94 142
Smyth, Edward Powerscourt Centre (Dublin) Taylor, Katie 51
Custom House (Dublin) 92 82 Telephones 358, 359
Dublin Castle 80 Trinity College (Dublin) 66 Television 358
King’s Inns (Dublin) 96 Station Island (Lough Derg) Ireland on screen 27
Sneem, Ring of Kerry tour 234 Temple Bar (Dublin) 12, 21, 79,
169 St John’s Point 288 82, 118
Sneem, River 164–5 Stoker, Bram 65 Teresa, Mother 209
Snow Patrol 28 Stone Circles Textile industry
Soccer 32, 342, 346 Beaghmore Stone Circles Ardara 232
Southeast Dublin 61–75 272 Avoca Handweavers 143
area map 61 Drombeg Stone Circle 14, 174 Blarney Woollen Mills 175
hotels 296 Druid’s Circle (Kenmare) 170 Foxford Woollen Mills 209
restaurants 308–9 Giant’s Ring (Belfast) 283 shops 334, 335
Street-by-Street map 62–3 Grange Stone Circle (Lough Ulster’s linen industry 272
Southeast Ireland 129–55 Gur) 198 Wellbrook Beetling Mill 272
hotels 297–8 Stormont (Belfast) 283 Theatre 338–9, 341
map 130–31 Stradbally Steam-engine Rally Abbey Theatre (Dublin) 26,
pubs 326–7 53 48, 91, 92
restaurants 311–13 Strangford, festivals 53 Dublin 112, 116, 118–19
travel 131 Street, George 84 festivals 54
Southwest Dublin 77–87 Strokestown Park 222–3 Gate Theatre (Dublin) 90, 94
area map 77 Strongbow 40, 84 Tholsel (New Ross) 153
hotels 296 Struell Wells (Downpatrick) 285 Thoor Ballylee (Gort) 218–19
restaurants 309–10 Stuart, James 287 Tickets and fares
Street-by-Street map 78–9 Stubbs, George, Hambletonian air travel 361
Souvenirs and gift shops 109, 287 Belfast local transport 373
111 Student travellers 352, 369 buses 370
Spanish Armada 42, 263 Sunlight Chambers (Dublin) Dublin local transport 372
Spelga Dam, Mourne Coast 78 entertainment 112, 338
tour 289 Sunshine 53 ferry crossings 364
Sphere within Sphere Swift, Jonathan 26, 44, 86 train services 369
(Pomodoro) 63, 66 Marsh’s Library (Dublin) 87 Time zone 353
The Spire (Dublin) 90, 93 memorials 58, 87 Timoleague Abbey 174–5
Sports, Outdoor Activities and St Patrick’s Cathedral Tipping, in hotels 295
Touring 342–7 (Dublin) 44, 87 Titanic (ship)
adventure activities 345 Swilly, Lough 230 Cobh 182
cruising and sailing 345 Swiss Cottage (Cahir) 202–3 sinking 48
cycling 343 Synge, John Millington 26, 92, Titanic Belfast 283
fishing 342–3 219 Titanic Memorial (Belfast) 280
golf 344 Synod of Whitby (664) 38 Titanic Quarter (Belfast) 12, 283
horse riding and pony Tobernalt Holy Well 238
trekking 344 T Tóibín, Colm 27
spectator sports 342 Tailors’ Hall (Dublin) 86 Tollymore Forest Park, Mourne
sporting year 32–3 Tain Trail (Carlingford) 246 Coast tour 289
walking and The Taking of Christ Tone, Wolfe
mountaineering 343 (Caravaggio) 75 Cave Hill (Belfast) 283
water sports 344–5 Talbot family 106 marriage 65
Staigue Fort, Ring of Kerry Tara, Hill of 15, 241, 248, 252 monument 65
tour 169 Tara Brooch 71 portraits 106
Stapleton, Michael 25 “A Taste of Baltimore” Shellfish rebellion attempts 45, 107, 172
Belvedere College (Dublin) Festival (Baltimore) 52 Tailors’ Hall (Dublin) 86
94 Tax, Sales (VAT) 332 Torc Waterfall 166
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392 GENER AL INDEX
Torr Head 271 Trinity College (Dublin) (cont.) Vale of Clara, Military Road
Tory Island 228 Geology Building 60 tour 142
Tourist Information 350–51 history 42 Vanhomrigh, Esther 86
Tours by car Long Room 67 VAT (sales tax) 332
Dingle Peninsula 162–3 Old Library 59, 67 Vernet, Joseph 136
Inishowen Peninsula 230–31 Troubles 35, 50, 51 Victoria, Queen
Lower Lough Erne 274–5 Tullamore Dew Heritage Cobh 182
Military Road 142 Centre 255 Dublin Exhibition (1853) 47
Mourne Coast 289 Tully Castle, Lower Lough Erne Glengarriff 171
Ring of Kerry 168–9 tour 274 Lakes of Killarney 166
Yeats Country 236–7 Tullynally Castle 245 statue removed 50
Tower houses 24 Turner, Richard 104 Vikings 35, 38–9
Trailer parks 294, 295 Turoe Stone 222 Donegal 234
Trains 368–9 Tweed shops 334, 335 Dublin 83
DART rail service 363, 368, 372 Twelfth of July 53 Dublinia and the Viking
Luas (Dublin) 368, 372 Twelve Days of Christmas World (Dublin) 12, 78, 83
sea/rail ticket 363 (Dublin) 55 Limerick 195
Tralee 13, 14, 160–61 Tyrone, Hugh O’Neill, Earl of Lower Shannon 185
festivals 53 42, 259 National Botanic Gardens
hotels 299 (Dublin) 104
restaurants 316 U National Museum of Ireland
Travel U2 (band) 28 (Dublin) 71
air travel 360–61 Ufford, Robert de 222 Southeast Ireland 129
Belfast 373 Ulster-American Folk Park Waterford 150
buses 370–71 (Tyrone) 273 Wexford 154
cars 365–7 Ulster Folk and Transport Wood Quay (Dublin) 78, 82,
children 352 Museum (Bangor) 15, 284 83
Cork and Kerry 158 Ulster Museum (Belfast) 282 Vinegar Hill (Enniscorthy) 153
disabled travellers 352, 353 Ulster Peace Movement 50 Virgin Mary 209
Dublin 372–3 Ulster Unionist Party 19 Visas and passports 350
ferry crossings 362–4 Ulster Volunteer Force 48,
Green travel 360 278 W
local transport 371 United Irishmen W5 (Belfast) 282–3
Lower Shannon 186 Cave Hill (Belfast) 283 Walking 343, 346
Midlands 242 foundation of 281 in Belfast 373
Northern Ireland 260 invasion attempt (1796) in Dublin 372
Northwest Ireland 227 172 Walpole, Edward 143
port connections 363, 364 rebel graves 96 Ware, Isaac 132
Southeast Ireland 131 Rebellion (1798) 49, 153 War of Independence 49, 157,
student travellers 352 Wolfe Tone speech 86 193
taxis 371 United States, Irish Waterfalls
train and bus through- immigration 46–7, 273 Glencar Lough 237
tickets 363 Universities Powerscourt Waterfall 142
train services 368–9 National University of Ireland Torc Waterfall 166
West of Ireland 206 Galway 214 Waterford 14, 150–51
Traveller’s cheques 356 Newman House (University restaurants 313
Trevor, William 27 College, Dublin) 65 Waterford Crystal 151
Trim 243, 252 Queen’s University (Belfast) Water sports 155, 344–5, 347
festivals 52 282 Waugh, Samuel
hotels 302 The Bay and Harbor of New
restaurants 323 V York 46–7
Trimble, David 19, 51 Valdré, Vincenzo 80 Wayne, John 213
Trinity College (Dublin) 12, 19, Valentia Island 168 Weather 52–5
61, 63, 66–7 Valentine, St 87 Wellbrook Beetling Mill 272
Book of Kells 59, 68 Vale of Avoca 143 Welles, Orson 94
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 392 08/03/17 11:08 am
GENER AL INDEX 393
West, Robert 277 Whyte, Samuel 64 Women’s Mini Marathon
West of Ireland 205–23 Wicklow, County 14 (Dublin) 52
hotels 300–1 festivals 52, 340 Wood Quay (Dublin) 78, 82, 83
map 206–7 Wicklow Mountains 14, 143 Woodstock Gardens and
pubs 329–30 landscape 23 Arboretum153
travel 206 rebel retreat 129, 143 Wyatt, James 25, 208, 276
Westport 13, 15, 208 Wicklow Way 143
hotels 301 Wild Atlantic Way 157, 342, 346 Y
restaurants 320 Wilde, Oscar 26, 94, 276 Yacht racing 32, 33
Westport House 15, 208 Merrion Square (Dublin) 72 Yeats, Jack B 15, 179, 219, 238
Wexford 154 Wildlife 22–3 Yeats, W.B.
festivals 54 Burren 190–1 Abbey Theatre (Dublin) 26, 92
restaurants 313 Clare Island 210 Cathleen ní Houlihan 19
Wexford Festival Opera 54, Connemara 212–13 Coole Park (Gort) 219
339, 341 Fota Wildlife Park 182–3 Easter Rising 93
Wexford Wildfowl Reserve 154 Raven Point (Wexford) 154 grave 236, 237
Whiddy Island 171 Skellig Islands 169 Irish revival 27
Whiskey see also Birds Lissadell House (Carney) 235
Irish whiskey 270 William of Orange (William III, memorial (Moore) 64
Kilbeggan Distillery King of England) Merrion Square (Dublin) 72
Experience 253 Battle of the Boyne (1690) Nobel Prize 49
Old Bushmills Distillery 35, 42, 248 Sligo 236, 237, 238
12–13, 15, 270 Carrickfergus Castle 278 statue 15, 238
Old Jameson Distillery Christ Church Cathedral Thoor Ballylee 218–19
(Dublin) 96 (Dublin) 85 Yeats Country 126, 236–7
Old Midleton Distillery 14, 183 Collins Barracks (Dublin) 105 Youghal 14, 183
Tullamore Dew Heritage Old Mellifont Abbey 249 restaurants 316
Centre 255 siege of Kinsale 176 Young Ireland Uprising 47
White, Richard 172 Treaty of Limerick 185 Youth hostels 294, 295
White family 171, 172 Williams, Betty 50
Whitefriar Street Carmelite Wilson, Woodrow 273 Z
Church (Dublin) 87 Wilson Ancestral Home Zoos
White Island, Lower Lough (Strabane) 273 Belfast Zoo 283
Erne tour 275 Wilton, Joseph 104 Dublin Zoo 100
White Park Bay 265 Windsor, John 97 Fota Wildlife Park 182–3
374-393_EW_Ireland.indd 393 08/03/17 11:08 am
394 A CKNOWLEDGMENT S
Acknowledgments
Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the following people Index
whose contributions and assistance have made the preparation Hilary Bird.
of this book possible.
Special Assistance
Main Contributors Dorling Kindersley would like to thank all the regional and local
Lisa Gerard-Sharp is a writer and broadcaster who has tourist offices in the Republic and Northern Ireland for their
contributed to numerous travel books, including the Eyewitness valuable help. Particular thanks also to: Ralph Doak and Egerton
Travel Guide to France. She is of Irish extraction, with roots in Shelswell-White at Bantry House, Bantry, Co Cork; Vera Greif at
County Sligo and County Galway, and a regular visitor to Ireland. the Chester Beatty Library and Gallery of Oriental Art, Dublin;
Alan Figgis at Christ Church Cathedral, Dublin; Labhras Ó
Tim Perry, from Dungannon, County Tyrone, writes on travel Murchu at Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann; Catherine O’Connor at
and popular music for various publishers in North America and Derry City Council; Patsy O’Connell at Dublin Tourism; Tanya
the British Isles. Cathcart at Fermanagh Tourism, Enniskillen; Peter Walsh at the
Guinness Storehouse, Dublin; Gerard Collet at the Irish Shop,
Additional Contributors Covent Garden, London; Dónall P Ó Baoill at ITE, Dublin; Pat
Cian Hallinan, Eoin Higgins, Douglas Palmer, Audrey Ryan, Cooke at Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin; Angela Shanahan at the
Trevor White, Roger Williams. Kinsale Tour ist Office; Bill Maxwell, Adrian Le Harivel and Marie
McFeely at the National Gallery of Ireland, Dublin; Philip
Additional Photography McCann at the National Library of Ireland, Dublin; Willy
Peter Anderson, Jonathan Buckley, Joe Cornish, Andy Crawford, Cumming at the National Monuments Divison, Office of Public
Brian Daughton, Michael Diggin, Steve Gorton, Anthony Haughey, Works, Dublin; Eileen Dunne and Sharon Fogarty at the National
Nigel Hicks, Mike Linley, Ian O’Leary, Stephen Oliver, Stephen Museum of Ireland, Dublin; Joris Minne at the Northern Ireland
Power, Magnus Rew, Clive Streeter, Rough Guides/Michelle Tourist Office, Belfast; Dr Tom MacNeil at Queen’s University,
Bhatia, Rough Guides/Roger Mapp, Rough Guides/Mark Belfast; Sheila Crowley at St Mary’s Pro-Cathedral, Dublin; Paul
Thomas, Matthew Ward, Alan Williams. Brock at the Shannon Development Centre; Tom Sheedy at
Shannon Heritage and Banquets, Bunratty Castle, Co Clare;
Additional Illustrations Angela Sutherland at the Shannon-Erne Waterway, Co Leitrim;
Richard Bonson, Brian Craker, John Fox, Paul Guest, Stephan Máire Ní Bháin at Trinity Col lege, Dublin; Anne-Marie Diffley at
Gyapay, Ian Henderson, Claire Littlejohn, Gillie Newman, Chris Trinity College Library, Dublin; Pat Maclean at the Ulster
Orr, Kevin Robinson, John Woodcock, Martin Woodward. Museum, Belfast; Harry Hughes at the Willie Clancy School of
Traditional Music, Miltown Malbay, Co Clare.
Additional Picture Research Miriam Sharland.
Revisions Team
Editorial and Design Louise Abbott, Namrata Adhwaryu, Emma Anacootee, Hansa
Managing Editors Vivien Crump, Helen Partington Babra, Parnika Bagla, Shruti Bahl, Meghna Baruah, Claire
Managing Art Editor Steve Knowlden Baranowski, Des Berry, Subhashree Bharati, Subhadeep Biswas,
Deputy Editorial Director Douglas Amrine Nadia Bonomally, Emma Brady, Roisin Cameron, Louise Cleghorn,
Deputy Art Director Gaye Allen Tara Corristine, Kathleen Crowley, Karen D’Souza, Neha Dhingra,
Production David Proffit, Hilary Stephens Rory Doyle, Vidushi Duggal, Sylvia Earley, Nicola Erdpresser, Anna
Picture Research Sue Mennell, Christine Rista Freiberger, Rhiannon Furbear, Darragh Geraghty, David Gordon,
DTP Designer Adam Moore Yvonne Gordon, Lydia Halliday, Kaberi Hazarika, Peter Hynes, Claire
Maps Gary Bowes, Margaret Slowey, Richard Toomey (Era-Maptec, Jones, Bharti Karakoti, Rupanki Arora Kaushik, Ciara Kenny, Sumita
Dublin, Ireland) Khatwani, Rahul Kumar, Rakesh Kumar Pal, Delphine Lawrance,
Map Co-Ordinators Michael Ellis, David Pugh Jude Ledger/Pure Content, Anwesha Madhukalya, Therese
Marion Broderick, Margaret Chang, Martin Cropper, Guy Dimond, McKenna, Alison McGill, Caroline Mead, Kate Molan, Vikki
Fay Franklin, Yael Freudmann, Sally Ann Hibbard, Annette Jacobs, Nousiainen, David O’Grady, Mary O’Grady, Susie Peachey, Madge
Erika Lang, Michael Osborn, Polly Phillimore, Caroline Radula-Scott. Perry, Marianne Petrou, Tom Prentice, Pete Quinlan, Rada Radojicic,
Sands Publishing Solutions, Sean Sheehan, Azeem Siddiqui, Rituraj
Relaunch – Editorial and Design Singh, Beverly Smart, Sadie Smith, Susana Smith, Tracy Smith,
Editorial Claire Baranowski, Fay Franklin, Anna Freiberger, Bhaswati Scott Stickland, Avantika Sukhia, Áine Toner, Zafar ul-Islam Khan,
Ghosh, Susanne Hillen, Claire Jones, Ciara Kenny, Sumita Khatwani, Conrad Van Dyke, Vinita Venugopal, Ajay Verma, Deepika Verma,
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Ramaswamy, Lucy Richards, Alka Thakur, Aine Toner, Asavari Singh
Factcheck Des Berry Photography Permissions
Design Maite Lantaron, Baishakhee Sengupta, Shruti Singhi The publisher would like to thank all those who gave
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DTP Vinod Harish, Jason Little, Shailesh Sharma museums, restaurants, hotels, shops, galleries and other sights
Cartography Uma Bhattacharya, Casper Morris, Kunal Singh. too numerous to list individually.
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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring this spectacular country.
Spend a weekend in Dublin, tour the North Antrim coastline or drive around the beautiful Ring of Kerry:
everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Ireland
with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Ireland:
- Over 30 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Ireland, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations depict Bunratty Castle, Dublin's Trinity College, the Giant's Causeway and more
- Colour photographs of Ireland's scenic coastline, national parks, castles, vibrant towns and cities, and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Dublin and beyond, southeast Ireland, Cork and Kerry, the Lower
Shannon, the west of Ireland, northwest Ireland, the Midlands and Northern Ireland
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's history,
landscape and wildlife, Celtic heritage, music and literature, sporting events and festivals
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus how to get around, visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Ireland is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
your visit to Ireland.
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