WHERE T O ST A Y 299
KINSALE: Carlton Hotel
DK Choice Kinsale €€ DK Choice
KENMARE: Rooms with views Road map B6 ADARE: Adare Manor
Sheen Falls Lodge €€€ Rathmore Road, Kinsale, Co Cork Hotel & Golf Resort €€€
Luxury Road map B5 Tel 021 470 6000 Luxury hotel
Kenmare, Co Kerry ∑ carltonkinsalehotel.com with character Road map B5
Tel 064 664 1600 This tranquil and contemporary Adare, Co Limerick
∑ sheenfallslodge.ie hotel with sea views has a pool, Tel 061 605 200
In a waterside location kids’ club and spa. ∑ adaremanor.com
overlooking Sheen Falls and This Neo-Gothic mansion on
across the river from town, this LITTLE ISLAND: Radisson Blu the banks of the River Maigue
five-star hotel set in 120 ha Hotel & Spa Cork €€ was the former home of the
(300 acres) of land is said to be Chain hotel Road map C6 Earls of Dunraven. Elegant,
one of the best in the country. Ditchley House, Little Island, Cork high-ceilinged rooms with
It is lavishly deco rated in classic Tel 021 429 7000 period features are luxuri ously
style. High lights include clay- ∑ radissonblu.ie/hotel-cork furnished and overlook formal
pigeon shooting and wild- A chic, elegant spa hotel with a gardens. There is also a pool
salmon fishing. The perfect mix of old-world charm and and steam room.
base from which to explore contemporary design. There is a
the Wild Atlantic Way. gym and hydrotherapy pool.
BALLYVAUGHAN:
SNEEM: Parknasilla Hotel Resort Gregans Castle Hotel €€€
KILLARNEY: The Europe Hotel & Spa €€€ Hotel with character Road map B4
and Resort €€€ Hotel with character Road map A6 Ballyvaughan, Co Clare
Luxury Road map B5 Sneem, Co Kerry Tel 065 707 7005
Fossa, Killarney, Co Kerry Tel 064 6675600 ∑ gregans.ie
Tel 064 667 1300 ∑ parknasillahotel.ie Boasting a superb location in
∑ theeurope.com This Victorian hotel overlooking the Burren, this manor house
This award-winning resort hotel Kenmare Bay offers modern is nestled within beautifully
overlooking the famous Lakes of comforts, an on-site spa and tended gardens. Rooms are
Killarney is home to a premium a 12-hole golf course. decorated in a contemporary
spa and leisure centre. country-house style.
TRALEE:
KILLARNEY: The Malton €€€ Ballyseede Castle Hotel €€ DOOLIN: Ballinalacken Castle
Hotel with character Road map B5 Hotel with character Road map B5 Country House Hotel €€
Town Centre, Killarney, Co Kerry Ballyseede, Tralee, Co Kerry Country house Road map B4
Tel 064 663 8000 Tel 066 712 5799 Doolin, Co Clare
∑ themalton.com ∑ ballyseedecastle.com Tel 065 707 4025
Retaining original Victorian Dating back to the 1590s, this ∑ ballinalackencastle.com
features and architecture, this is family-run castle hotel with Welcoming rooms await at this
a charming retreat with pretty elgant rooms is set in woodland. 15th-century hotel, along with
landscaped gardens. warm fires, sea views and a
renowned restaurant.
KILLORGLIN:
Carrig Country House €€ The Lower Shannon KILMALLOCK:
Guesthouse Road map A5 Flemingstown House €€€
Caragh Lake, Killorglin, Co Kerry ADARE: Dunraven Arms €€ Farmhouse Road map B5
Tel 066 976 9100 Hotel with character Road map B5 Kilmallock, Co Limerick
∑ carrighouse.com Adare, Co Limerick Tel 063 98093
Open fires and antiques create Tel 061 605 900 ∑ flemingstown.com
a warm, peaceful atmosphere. ∑ dunravenhotel.com A 250-year-old farmhouse on
Rooms are beautifully appointed A luxurious country house famed a working farm situated in
and the excellent restaurant for its hospitality. Its spacious a tranquil setting, Flemingstown
overlooks Caragh Lake. rooms are beautifully furnished. House is perfect for families and
large groups.
LAHINCH: Moy House €€€
Luxury Road map B4
Lahinch, Co Clare
Tel 065 708 2800
∑ moyhouse.com
This 18th-century hotel has
elegant furnishings, an orchard
and vegetable gardens.
LIMERICK: No.1 Pery Square €€
Hotel with character Road map B4
1 Pery Square, Limerick
Tel 061 402 402
∑ oneperysquare.com
Spacious, elegant bedrooms
and a spa can be found at this
Elegantly furnished bedroom at Moy House, Lahinch glamorous Georgian town house.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 292–5
296-303_EW_Ireland.indd 299 08/03/17 11:43 am
300 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
ACHILL ISLAND: CLIFDEN:
Grays Guest House €€ Dolphin Beach House €€
Guesthouse Road map A3 Rooms with views Road map A3
Dugort, Achill Island, Co Mayo Lower Sky Road, Clifden, Co Galway
Tel 098 43244 Tel 095 21204
∑ grays-guesthouse.ie ∑ dolphinbeachhouse.com
Old-fashioned but comfortable In the heart of Connemara, this
rooms are offered at this guest- stylish beachside house furnishes
house in pretty Dugort village. its spacious rooms with antiques.
ARAN ISLANDS: CONG: Ashford Castle €€€
An Dún Guest House €€ Luxury Road map B3
Guesthouse Road map B4 Cong, Co Mayo
Inis Meain, Aran Islands, Co Galway Tel 094 954 6003
Tel 099 73047 ∑ ashford.ie
∑ inismeainaccommodation.com Ireland’s most luxurious castle
This comfortable, friendly place is hotel is set in 350 acres (140 ha)
awash with culture and scenic of parkland, lakes and gardens.
views. Great, wholesome food.
GALWAY: Jurys Inn €€
ARAN ISLANDS: Chain hotel Road map B4
The plush drawing room of Ashford Castle Kilmurvey House €€ Quay Street, Galway, Co Galway
in Cong, looking out over beautiful gardens Rooms with views Road map B4 Tel 091 566 444
Inis Mór, Aran Islands, Co Galway ∑ jurysinns.com
LIMERICK: Savoy Hotel €€ Tel 099 61218 A centrally located hotel with
Boutique Hotel Road map C3 ∑ aranislands.ie/kilmurvey-house functional bedrooms. Breakfast
Henry St, Limerick An 18th-century stone house and Internet access are extras.
Tel 061 448 700 with comfortable sitting rooms.
∑ savoylimerick.com Bedrooms have great views. GALWAY: The Twelve Hotel €€
Luxury rooms and relaxation Luxury Road map B4
treatments make this a perfect DK Choice Barna Village, Galway, Co Galway
base for exploring the Cliffs of Tel 091 597 000
Moher and King John’s Castle. BALLINA: Ice House Hotel €€€ ∑ thetwelvehotel.ie
Luxury Road map B2 Located near the beach, this stylish
DK Choice The Quay, Ballina, Co Mayo boutique hotel has a pizza kitchen,
Tel 096 23500
bakery and spa treatments.
NEWMARKET-ON-FERGUS: ∑ icehousehotel.ie
Dromoland Castle €€€ This iconic design hotel in a GALWAY: Hotel Meyrick €€€
Luxury hotel with restored ice house with floor-to- Hotel with character Road map B4
character Road map B4 ceiling windows overlooks the Eyre Square, Galway, Co Galway
Co Clare river. Relax in the steam room, Tel 091 564 041
Tel 061 368 144 then enjoy modern Irish cuisine ∑ hotelmeyrick.ie
∑ dromoland.ie in the award-winning restaurant. This historic railway hotel has
This is one of Ireland’s finest an elegant mahogany-and-brass
hotels. Its grand elegance – with interior, ornate rooms and a spa.
antiques and crystal chandeliers – CARRICK-ON-SHANNON:
is enhanced by the scenery of The Landmark Hotel €€ INISHBOFIN: Doonmore Hotel €€
the surrounding estate. Luxury Road map C3 Budget Road map A3
Bedrooms are utterly luxurious. Carrick-on-Shannon, Co Leitrim Inishbofin Island, Co Galway
Tel 071 962 2222 Tel 095 45804
∑ thelandmarkhotel.com ∑ doonmorehotel.com
THURLES: Inch House €€ The centrally located Landmark A traditional family-run hotel. The
Country house Road map C4 Hotel has spacious rooms and bar has an open fire and holds
Nenagh Rd, Thurles, Co Tipperary lovely views of the River Shannon. regular live music sessions.
Tel 0504 51348
∑ inchhouse.ie CASTLEBAR: NEWPORT: Newport House €€
A stately Georgian house with Breaffy House Resort €€ Luxury Road map B3
spacious, high-ceilinged rooms Country house Road map B3 Newport, Co Mayo
and an award-winning restaurant. Castlebar, Co Mayo Tel 098 41222
Tel 094 902 2033 ∑ newporthouse.ie
∑ breaffyhouseresort.com Refined comfort, gracious
Well-appointed bedrooms with a hospitality and an internationally
The West of Ireland kids’ room and leisure facilities, renowned wine cellar are offered
including a spa, are on offer here. at this historic Georgian mansion.
ACHILL ISLAND:
Bervie Guesthouse €€ CASTLEREA: Clonalis House €€€ RENVYLE:
Guesthouse Road map A3 Luxury Road map C3 Renvyle House Hotel €€€
The Strand, Keel, Achill Island, Co Mayo Castlerea, Co Roscommon Country house Road map A3
Tel 098 43114 Tel 094 962 0014 Renvyle, Connemara, Co Galway
∑ bervieachill.com ∑ clonalis.com Tel 095 46100
This former coastguard station This historic mansion built in 1878 ∑ renvyle.com
offers warm hospitality, a turf fire is set within a large estate. Rooms This atmospheric and historic
and direct access to Keel Beach. have period decor. house on the shores of the
For key to prices see p296
296-303_EW_Ireland.indd 300 08/03/17 11:43 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Listings template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 2nd November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
WHERE T O ST A Y 301
Atlantic boasts its own private DOWNINGS: Rosapenna
lake and a 9-hole golf club. Hotel €€ DK Choice
Rooms with views Road map C1 MALIN TOWN:
ROSCOMMON: Abbey Hotel €€ Downings, Co Donegal The Malin Hotel €€
Country house Road map C3 Tel 074 915 5301 Hotel with
Galway Road, Roscommon ∑ rosapenna.ie character Road map C1
Tel 090 662 6240 Rooms are stylish and many have Malin Town, Inishowen, Co Donegal
∑ abbeyhotel.ie private balconies and sea views. Tel 074 937 0606
The en suite bedrooms here are There are two golf courses. ∑ malinhotel.ie
appealingly furnished and the A French-styled boutique hotel
facilities are modern. DUNFANAGHY: Arnolds with a warm welcome, a lively
Hotel €€ bar and individually designed,
DK Choice Rooms with views Road map C1 sumptuous boudoirs. Rooms
Dunfanaghy, Co Donegal
feature designer wallpaper and
WESTPORT: Tel 074 913 6208 Egyptian cotton sheets.
Ardmore Country House €€ ∑ arnoldshotel.com
Country house Road map B3 A family-run hotel with en-suite
The Quay, Westport, Co Mayo rooms overlooking Sheephaven MOHILL: Lough Rynn Castle €€
Tel 098 25994 Bay. The lounge has an open fire. Luxury Road map C3
∑ ardmorecountryhouse.com Mohill, Co Leitrim
Overlooking Clew Bay, Ardmore LOUGH ESKE: Harvey’s Tel 071 963 2700
is a peaceful haven, yet it is Point €€€ ∑ loughrynn.ie
only a short stroll from the Luxury Road map C2 Set in a 150-acre (60-ha) estate,
bustle of Westport’s 18th- Lough Eske, Donegal Town, Co this castle hotel exudes old-world
century harbour. This family- Donegal charm and elegance.
run hotel is famed for its Tel 074 972 2208
fabulous breakfasts. ∑ harveyspoint.com RIVERSTOWN:
This Swiss-style hotel features Coopershill House €€€
palatial bedrooms with views Luxury Road map C2
WESTPORT: of the lake and a few pet-friendly Riverstown, Co Sligo
Knockranny House Hotel €€ rooms. The restaurant, offering Tel 071 916 5108
Country house Road map B3 fine dining, is the heart and soul ∑ coopershill.com
Westport, Co Mayo of the hotel. Spacious bedrooms are decorated
Tel 098 28600 with tasteful antiques in this
∑ knockrannyhousehotel.ie DK Choice elegant 17th-century house.
An inviting hotel with log fires
and antique furniture. The rooms LOUGH ESKE: Lough ROSSES POINT:
are bright and airy. Eske Castle Hotel & Spa €€€ Yeats Country Hotel €€
Luxury Road map C2 Resort Road map B2
Lough Eske, Donegal Town, Co Rosses Point, Co Sligo
Donegal Tel 071 917 7211
Northwest Ireland Tel 074 972 5100 ∑ yeatscountryhotel.com
∑ solishotels.com This hotel offers warm, cosy and
ARDARA: The Green Gate €€ Nestled on the shores of Lough stylish en suite rooms, as well as
Guesthouse Road map C2 Eske this beautiful castle-hotel a swimming pool and spa.
Ardvally, Ardara, Co Donegal combines its historic past with
Tel 074 954 1546 contemporary elegance. The ROSSNOWLAGH:
∑ thegreengate.eu only five-star hotel in the Sand House Hotel €€
Accommodation is spread over county, it boasts a spa, fine Rooms with views Road map C2
two low, thatched-roof cottages dining restaurant and bar, Rossnowlagh, Co Donegal
with simple but pleasant rooms. splendid afternoon teas and Tel 071 985 1777
lavishly decorated rooms, all ∑ sandhouse.ie
BUNDORAN: surrounded by acres of An imposing castellated hotel,
Great Northern Hotel €€ unspoiled woodland. offering nicely decorated rooms
Luxury Road map C2 and beachside views.
Sea Road, Bundoran, Co Donegal
Tel 071 984 1204
∑ greatnorthernhotel.com
With its leisure facilities and
18-hole golf course, this hotel is
ideal for relaxed family holidays.
DONEGAL TOWN: Ard Na
Breatha €€
Guesthouse Road map C2
Drumrooske Middle, Donegal Town,
Co Donegal
Tel 074 972 2288
∑ ardnabreatha.com
Spearheading the Irish
eco-tourism movement, this
guesthouse has stunning views
of the Bluestack Mountains. Exterior of the grand 19th-century Lough Rynn Castle in Mohill
For more information on types of hotels see pages 292–5
296-303_EW_Ireland.indd 301 08/03/17 11:43 am
302 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
SLIGO: Clarion Hotel €€ CLOVERHILL: MULLINGAR: Greville Arms €
Chain hotel Road map C2 The Olde Post Inn €€ Budget Road map C3
Clarion Rd, Sligo, Co Sligo Hotel with character Road map C3 Pearse Street, Mullingar,
Tel 071 911 9000 Cloverhill, Co Cavan Co Westmeath
∑ clarionhotelsligo.com Tel 047 55555 Tel 044 934 8563
An impressive but family-friendly ∑ theoldepostinn.com ∑ grevillearmshotel.ie
hotel in beautiful grounds and Housed in the former post office, A traditional country town hotel
with great views of Ben Bulben. the Inn has rustic ambience, cosy with comfortable bedrooms, a
rooms and a superb restaurant. large bar and a nightclub.
DROGHEDA: Boyne Valley DK Choice
The Midlands Hotel & Country Club €€
Country house Road map D3 SLANE:
ATHLONE: Hodson Bay €€ Stameen, Drogheda, Co Louth Tankardstown House €€€
Rooms with views Road map C3 Tel 041 983 7737 Luxury Road map D3
Hodson Bay, Athlone, Co Westmeath ∑ boyne-valley-hotel.ie Slane, Co Meath
Tel 090 644 2000 A family-friendly historic house. Tel 041 9824621
∑ hodsonbayhotel.com Rooms in the old part of the ∑ tankardstown.ie
Many of the cheerfully decorated building have more character; Lime trees line the avenue
rooms have views of Lough Ree. the others have better facilities. leading to this 18th-century
Shannon cruises are available. manor. It has exquisite rooms
KILLENARD: The Heritage with fine antiques and beautiful
CARLINGFORD: Golf & Spa Resort €€ bathrooms, as well as excellent
Ghan House €€ Luxury Road map C4 dining. Guests can ex plore the
Guesthouse Road map D3 Killenard, Co Laois orangery and gardens.
Co Louth Tel 057 864 5500
Tel 042 937 3682 ∑ theheritage.com
∑ ghanhouse.com Impressive public spaces, excep- TRIM: Trim Castle Hotel €€
This family-run Georgian house in tional leisure facilities and three Hotel with character Road map D3
three acres of walled gardens restaurants can be found here. Castle Street, Trim, Co Meath
boasts elegant rooms, log fires Tel 046 948 3000
and an award-winning restaurant. KILMESSAN: ∑ trimcastlehotel.com
Station House Hotel €€ Some of the bright, spacious
CAVAN: Radisson Blu Hotel with character Road map D3 rooms have views of the castle.
Farnham Estate €€€ Kilmessan, Co Meath Guests can enjoy the off-site
Chain hotel Road map C3 Tel 046 902 5239 leisure facilities at a reduced rate.
Farnham Estate, Cavan, Co Cavan ∑ stationhousehotel.ie
Tel 049 4377700 This Victorian train station turned TULLAMORE:
∑ farnhamestate.ie cosy hotel has well-equipped, Anna Harvey House €
A contemporary glass atrium nicely decorated rooms and an Farmhouse Road map C4
links to a grand 18th-century award-winning restaurant. Tullamore, Co Offaly
house with sumptuous rooms. Tel 05793 43544
KINNITTY: Ardmore House € ∑ annaharveyfarm.ie
CLONES: Hilton Park €€ Guesthouse Road map C4 A rural idyll – this restored grain
Luxury hotel with The Walk, Kinnitty, Co Offaly barn has open fires, pine floors
character Road map C2 Tel 05791 37009 and cosy bedrooms. Equestrian
Clones, Co Monaghan ∑ kinnitty.com activities are a major draw.
Tel 047 56007 The place to experience the real
∑ hiltonpark.ie Old Ireland, Ardmore House has a
Owned by the Madden family turf fire, home cooking, a relaxed
since 1734, this country house atmosphere and a warm welcome. Northern Ireland
has period-style accommodation.
LONGFORD: ARMAGH: Armagh City Hotel ££
Viewmount House €€ Leisure club hotel Road map D2
Country house Road map C3 2 Friary Road, Armagh
Dublin Road, Longford Tel 028 375 18888
Tel 043 334 1919 ∑ armaghcityhotel.com
∑ viewmounthouse.com Look beyond the charmless
This Georgian house previously exterior. This hotel has clean,
owned by the Earl of Longford well-equipped rooms, and
has bright, stylish rooms. facilities include a gym and pool.
MOUNTRATH: BALLYCASTLE:
Roundwood House €€ Whitepark House ££
Hotel with character Road map C4 Guesthouse Road map D1
Mountrath, Co Laois 150 Whitepark Rd, Ballintoy,
Tel 05787 32120 Ballycastle, Co Antrim
∑ roundwoodhouse.com Tel 028 2073 1482
Enjoy a truly unique experience ∑ whiteparkhouse.com
staying at the Flynn family’s Enjoy elegant country living
gracious Palladian home, here in a house dating from
Superb views of Lough Ree from the spa’s which is set in a delightful 1730. Breakfast is served in a
balcony at Hodson Bay in Athlone mountainside location. lovely conservatory.
For key to prices see p296
296-303_EW_Ireland.indd 302 08/03/17 11:43 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Listings template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 2nd November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
WHERE T O ST A Y 303
Price Guide
Prices are based on one night’s stay in
high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
£ up to £85
££ £85–£180
£££ over £180
BALLYGALLY:
Hastings Ballygally Castle ££
Hotel with character Road map D1
274 Coast Road, Ballygally, Co Antrim
Tel 028 2858 1066
∑ hastingshotels.com
The rooms here, with beamed
ceilings and antiques, have been Patio and garden area at the entrance to Bushmills Inn
equipped with modern facilities.
Stay in the Ghost Room, in the DK Choice side view at this hotel situated on
17th-century tower. the shores of Lough Erne.
BUSHMILLS: Bushmills Inn £££
BALLYMENA: Hotel with HOLYWOOD:
Galgorm Resort and Spa £££ character Road map D1 Hastings Culloden Hotel ££
Luxury Road map D1 9 Dunluce Road, Bushmills, Co Luxury Road map E2
136 Fenaghy Road, Ballymena, Antrim Bangor Road, Holywood, Co Antrim
Co Antrim Tel 028 2073 3000 Tel 028 9042 1066
Tel 028 2588 1001 ∑ bushmillsinn.com ∑ hastingshotels.com
∑ galgorm.com This charming coaching inn with Once the palace of the Bishop of
Luxurious rooms, many with river turf fires and cosy nooks is said to Down, this opulent hotel by
views, and excellent service. Self- date back to 1608, when the Belfast Lough has pleasant
catering cottages and log cabins neighbouring distillery gained rooms, some with great views.
are other accommodation options. the world’s first-ever licence to
distil whiskey. There is excellent LONDONDERRY: Beech Hill
BANGOR: Cairn Bay Lodge ££ dining, too, plus live Irish music Country House ££
Guesthouse Road map E2 on Saturdays in the Gas Bar. Luxury Road map C1
278 Seacliff Road, Bangor, Co Down 32 Ardmore Road, Londonderry
Tel 02891 467 636 Tel 028 7134 9279
∑ cairnbaylodge.com CRAWFORDSBURN: ∑ beech-hill.com
An Edwardian-style B&B by the The Old Inn at Crawfordsburn ££ This grand country house hotel
bay. The elegant dining room Hotel with character Road map E2 has comfortable rooms, antique
looks out on beautiful gardens. Main St, Crawfordsburn, Co Down furniture and good service.
Tel 028 9185 3255
BELFAST: An Old Rectory ££ ∑ theoldinn.com LONDONDERRY:
Guesthouse Road map D2 Each individually decorated room Everglades Hotel ££
148 Malone Road, Belfast, Co Antrim in this thatched 17th-century inn Business hotel Road map C1
Tel 028 9066 7882 features a plush four-poster bed. Prehen Road, Londonderry
∑ anoldrectory.co.uk Tel 028 7132 1066
This former Church of Ireland DOWNHILL: Downhill Beach ∑ hastingshotels.com
rectory boasts many original House £ An imposing riverside hotel with
features, and each room is Hostel Road map D1 spacious rooms. The Grill Room
uniquely decorated. The organic 12 Mussenden Road, Downhill, restaurant uses local ingredients.
breakfasts are excellent. Co Londonderry
Tel 028 7084 9077 NEWCASTLE:
BELFAST: Europa Hotel ££ ∑ downhillbeachhouse.com Hastings Slieve Donard ££
Business hotel Road map D2 Set beneath cliffs, facing a beach, Leisure club and
Great Victoria Street, Belfast, this Victorian villa has dorms, spa hotel Road map E2
Co Antrim private rooms and a kitchen. Downs Road, Newcastle, Co Down
Tel 028 9027 1066 Tel 028 4372 1066
∑ hastingshotels.com DUNGANNON: Grange Lodge ££ ∑ hastingshotels.com
A classic hotel in an imposing Guesthouse Road map D2 In a spectacular location, where
build ing. There is a bar and a 7 Grange Road, Dungannon, Co Tyrone the Mountains of Mourne sweep
lounge, while fitness facilities Tel 028 8778 4212 down to the sea, this majestic
are available nearby. ∑ grangelodgecountryhouse.com red-brick hotel has comfy rooms,
This tranquil country house dating a great spa and world-class golf.
BELFAST: Merchant Hotel £££ from 1698 has pretty rooms,
Luxury Road map D2 warm hospitality and great food. PORTAFERRY: Ardbrae Country
16 Skipper Street, Belfast, House £
Co Antrim ENNISKILLEN: Killyhevlin Hotel £ Guesthouse Road map E2
Tel 028 9023 4888 Resort Road map C2 Dunevly Rd, Portaferry, County Down
∑ themerchanthotel.com Killyhevlin, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh Tel 02842772914
The period façade of this listed Tel 028 6632 3481 ∑ ardbrae.co.uk
building in the Cathedral Quarter ∑ killyhevlin.com Surrounded by wonderful
conceals up-to-date facilities It’s worth paying the extra for a countryside, this comfortable
such as a spa and a rooftop gym. room with an outstanding water- hotel has superb hospitality.
For more information on types of hotels see pages 292–5
296-303_EW_Ireland.indd 303 08/03/17 11:43 am
304 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK
Although the highest concentration of top for money. To supplement these listings, look
gourmet restaurants is in Ireland’s main cities, out for the Dining in Ireland booklet published
equally fine cuisine can be found in some by Fáilte Ireland, the Irish Tourist Board. Pub
very unlikely, remote locations around the lunches are one of Ireland’s top travel bargains,
country. Good, plain cooking is on offer at offering generous portions of fresh vegetables
moderately priced, family-style restaurants all and prime meats, and can often serve as the
over Ireland. The restaurants listed on pages main meal of the day for a very reasonable
308–25 are recommended for their high price. Light meals, bar food and a variety of
standards of service, quality of food and value takeaway dishes are also widely available.
Irish Eating Patterns
Traditional Irish breakfasts feature
bacon, sausages, black pudding,
eggs, tomatoes and brown bread.
In Northern Ireland this, plus
potato cakes and soda farls (see
p306), is known as an “Ulster Fry”.
These hearty plates often appear
on menus as “all-day breakfast”
options and coincide with the
popularity in brunch fare that
has now become part of the
Irish dining out culture. Lunch menu at Farmgate Café, Cork City (see p314)
Continental breakfasts are
easily available, along with the main meal of the day. In many will often provide an ample
traditional breakfast, both of of the top restaurants, the fixed- home-cooked evening meal,
which are included in most price lunch and dinner menus are and many will serve tea and
hotel and bed-and-breakfast similar, but lunch comes at half scones in the late evening at
rates, as well as porridge, meat, the price. House wines are quite no extra charge.
cheese, cereals and fruits. Lunch- drinkable in most restaurants In top restaurants, men are
time menus offer lighter options and can reduce the total cost of expected to wear a jacket,
such as salads or soup and sand- your bill. If you are travelling though not necessarily a tie,
wiches and main meals are with children, look for a and women to wear a dress or
served in the evening. Vestiges restaurant that provides a less suit. Elsewhere, the dress code
of the old eating patterns remain expensive children’s menu. is pretty informal.
in the huge midday platefuls Lunch is usually served Visa and MasterCard are the
still served in pubs. between noon and 2:30pm, most commonly accepted
with dinner between 6:30 and credit cards, and debit cards are
Tips on Eating Out 10pm, although many ethnic also widely accepted. In rural
and city-centre restaurants areas, especially in small cafés
Elegant dining becomes stay open later, particularly and pubs, be prepared to pay
considerably more affordable in Temple Bar in Dublin’s city with cash. Many restaurants
when you make lunch your centre. Bed-and-breakfast hosts have early-bird menus, offering
diners less expensive options
than on the standard menu.
Gourmet and
Ethnic Dining
This once gourmet-poor land
now sports restaurants that rank
among Europe’s very best, with
chefs trained in outstanding
domestic and continental
institutions. There is a choice
of Irish, French, Italian, Chinese,
Indonesian and even Russian
and Cuban cuisines, with styles
Dining room above Dublin’s Fallon & Byrne food emporium (see p308) ranging from traditional to
304-305_EW_Ireland.indd 304 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 305
Fish and Chips and
regional to nouvelle cuisine. Other Fast Foods picnics, and there are often
Locations vary as widely as the places to pull off the road in
cuisine, from hotel dining rooms, The Irish, from peasant to scenic spots.
town-house basements and city parliamentarian, love their
mansions to castle hotels and “chippers”, immortalized in Recommended
village cafés. The small County Roddy Doyle’s novel The Van, Restaurants
Cork town of Kinsale has and any good pub night will
established itself as the end with a visit to the Ireland offers a wealth of styles
“Gourmet Capital of nearest fast-food of cooking and a great spread of
Ireland”. Outstanding shop. At any time international flavours – from
chefs also reign of day, however, if Italian and Moroccan to Asian
over the gracious you pass by Leo street food (often Chinese and
houses listed in Burdock’s in Dublin, Thai fresh noodle or rice dishes,
Ireland’s Blue Book of there will be a long plus skewers of marinated meats
Country Houses and queue for this and spring rolls). Modern Irish
Restaurants, inter national cooking extends far beyond meat
available from institution and potatoes and takes on a
tourist offices. (see p309). With variety of influences to create a
Ireland’s long fresh and often imaginative use
Budget Dining coastline, wher- of classic local ingredients, such
Sign at Leo Burdock’s ever you choose, as salmon, lamb, oysters and beef.
It is quite possible to (see p309) the fish will usually The restaurants are divided
eat well on a small be the freshest into eight geographical areas:
budget wherever you are in catch of the day – plaice, cod, Dublin, Southeast Ireland, Cork
Ireland. In both city and rural haddock, whiting or ray. The and Kerry, The Lower Shannon,
locations, there are small cafés, many other fast-food outlets the West of Ireland, Northwest
tea rooms and family-style include a host of familiar Ireland, the Midlands and
restaurants with inexpensive international chains, as well as a Northern Ireland. They are
meals. Even if a café or tea room wide variety of burger and then subsequently organized
is at a main tourist attraction, kebab shops. There are several by town. The restau rants have
such as Bantry House, you can good pasta and pizza chains, been chosen based on a variety
still expect good, home-made such as Pizza Express, which is of factors, such as fantastic Irish
food and freshly baked bread called Milano in the Republic. cuisine, hearty food suitable for
and cakes. Sandwiches are made families in an informal, friendly
with thick slices of cheese or Picnics setting, an unrivalled ambience
meat (not processed); salad or excellent ethnic fare.
plates feature smoked salmon Ireland is a glorious picnic Throughout the listings,
and cold meats; and hot meals country. Farmhouse cheeses restau rants that stand out from
usually come with large helpings and thick pâtés are picnic treats. the rest are marked as DK
of vegetables and potatoes Many small delis and shops sell Choice. These have been
cooked every which way. freshly made sandwiches. The highlighted because they offer
coast is ringed with sandy a special experience – either
Pub Food beaches and more than for outstanding cuisine,
400 forest areas, many with authentic Irish food and
Ireland’s pubs have moved into picnic tables; great views add to atmosphere, excellent value
the food field with a vengeance. the pleasure of mountainside or a combination of these.
In addition to bar snacks (soup,
sandwiches and so on), available
from noon until late, salads and
hot meals are served from
midday to 2:30pm. Hot plates
all come heaped with mounds
of fresh vegetables, potatoes
in one or more versions, and
good portions of local fish or
meat. Particularly good bargains
are the pub carveries that offer
a choice of joints, sliced to
your preference. International
staples such as spaghetti,
lasagne and quiche also
appear on pub menus. For a
list of recommended pubs,
see pages 326–31. One of several bars at the Left Bank pub, Kilkenny (see p326)
304-305_EW_Ireland.indd 305 08/03/17 11:43 am
306 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
The Flavours of Ireland
Boxty, barm brack, champ, coddle, cruibins, colcannon – the basic
dishes that have nourished Ireland are spiced with fancy names.
But the secret of their success is their in gredients, which are
nurtured in a warm, damp climate on lush hills that brings
them flavour. Beef and dairy cattle can stay out all year and
they make abundant butter, cheese and cream. Pork and
pork products, such as ham and bacon, are a mainstay, though lamb
is traditional, too. Potatoes, the king of vegetables, turn up in soup,
pies, cakes, bread and scones that are piled on breakfast and tea Oysters
tables. And the rivers, lakes and shores are rich in seafood.
can be especially meaty. Dublin addition of butter and some
coddle, a fill-me-up after the milk. Boxty is a bake of raw and
pub on a Saturday night, relies cooked potato mashed with
on sausages and potatoes as butter, buttermilk and flour;
well as bacon. Ham is champ is potatoes mashed with
sometimes smoked over peat milk, butter and onions.
and, for special occasions, it is
baked with cloves and brown Fish and Seafood
sugar and served with buttered
cabbage. Colcannon is made The Atlantic Ocean and Irish
with cabbage, cooked and Sea have a rich variety of
chopped with mashed potato shellfish, from lobsters and
A chef in Connemara displays traditional and onions, sometimes with the Dublin Bay prawns to mussels
Irish cuisine
Barm brack White soda bread Brown soda bread Potato bread
The Basic Dishes
Irish stews are thick and tasty,
traditionally featuring lamb or
mutton, onion and potatoes,
while beef and Guinness make
a darker casserole, sometimes
with the addition of oysters.
Carrots and turnips are the
first choice of vege tables for the
pot. Pork is the basis of
many dishes. Trotters, called
cruibins or crubeens, are Potato farls Wheaten bread
sometimes pickled, while bacon Selection of the many traditional Irish breads
Irish Traditional Food
If your heart is up to it, start the day
with an Ulster Fry. This breakfast
fry-up includes thick, tasty bacon,
plus black pudding, soda farls and
potato cake. A “lady’s breakfast”
will have one egg, a “gentleman’s”
two. Goose berry jam will be
spread on fried bread, and mugs of
tea will wash it down. Irish stews
traditionally use mutton, not so
common today, while Spiced Beef uses
Gubbeen cheese up brisket, which is covered in a various
spices then left for a week before being Irish Stew Traditionally, neck of
cooked slowly with Guinness and vegetables. A high tea in the early mutton, potatoes, carrots and
evening is the major meal in many homes; a main course will be onions are slowly cooked
followed by a succession of breads and cakes. together for hours.
IR_306-307-IrelandFood.indd 306 25/04/16 10:49 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Feature template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.3)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 307
Day, while rich porter cake is
made with Guinness or other
stout. White, brown and fruit
scones will never be far from
tea and breakfast tables.
Dairy Products
Butter, usually salted, is used
generously, on vegetables
and in sauces as well as in
puddings and on bread.
Cream, too, is used in cooking,
stirred into soups and whipped
for puddings. The variety
and quality of Irish farmhouse
Fruit and vegetable stall at Moore Street Market, Dublin cheeses is impressive, although
a med ium Cheddar produced
and oysters, scallops, clams and bread is fried or eaten cold, by a large manufacturer was
razor shells. Herring, mackerel, as cake. Farls (“quarters”) are hailed “Best Irish Cheese” at the
plaice and skate are brought made with wheat flour or oats, 2005 World Cheese Awards.
in from the sea, while the rivers bi carbonate of soda and butter
and lakes offer up salmon, milk, which goes into many Irish Cheeses
trout and eels, which are recipes. Fruit breads include
often smoked. Galway salmon barm brack, traditionally eaten Carrigaline Nuttytasting,
has the best reputation and at Hallowe’en and on All Saint’s Goudalike cheese from Cork.
its oyster festival is famous. Cashel Blue The first Irish blue
Salmon is usually smoked in cheese. Soft and creamy.
oak wood kilns. Along the Unpasteurized; from Tipperary.
shore, a red seaweed called Cooleeny Small, Camembert
dulse is collected and mixed style unpasteurized cheese
with potatoes mashed in their from Tipperary.
skins to make dulse champ. Durrus Creamy, naturalrind
unpasteurized cheese from West
Cork. May be smoked.
Baked Goods Gubbeen Semisoft washed
Freshly baked breads make rind cheese. Rich, milky taste.
up a large percentage of the Milleens Soft, rich rindwashed
Irish diet. Unleaven soda bread cheese. Unpasteurized; from the
is ubiquitous (it’s great with Beara peninsula, Cork.
Irish cheeses). In Northern St Killian Hexagonal Brielike
Ireland, brown soda bread is Sea trout, plucked fresh from the creamy cheese from Wexford.
called wheaten bread. Potato Atlantic Ocean
Dublin Coddle This is a com Galway Salmon Top quality Brown Bread Ice Cream
forting mixture of sausages, fish can be simply served with Considered a luxury in the19th
bacon, potatoes and onions, an Irish butter sauce, watercress century and now a modern
stewed in ham stock. and colcannon. classic in Irish restaurants.
IR_306-307-IrelandFood.indd 307 25/04/16 10:49 am
308 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Where to Eat and Drink
Dunne & Crescenzi €€ Price Guide
Dublin Italian Map E4 For a three-course meal per person, with
Southeast Dublin 14–16 South Frederick Street, a half-bottle of house wine, including
tax and service.
Dublin 2
Hatch & Sons € Tel 01 675 9892/01 677 3815 € under €25
Irish Map D4 Open day and night, this enoteca €€ €25 to 50
15 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2 offers a warm atmosphere and €€€ over €50
Tel 01 661 0075 a lively terrace, along with its
Housed in an elegant, light-filled range of delicious platters and freshly baked cakes, salads and
basement in the Little Museum pasta dishes. The coffee is said hearty dinners.
of Dublin, this restaurant serves to be among the best in town.
traditional Irish food. The blaas, Avenue by Nick Munier €€€
a soft white roll, with a selection Fallon & Byrne €€ Modern Irish Map D3
of fillings is recommended. Bistro-Irish Map D3 1 Crow Street, Dublin 2
11–17 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 Tel 01 645 5102
Steps of Rome € Tel 01 472 1010 This restaurant offers a unique
Italian Map D4 An elegant dining room above gastronomic experience with
1 Chatham Street, Dublin 2 F&B’s fantastic food hall and high-protein, low carbohydrate
Tel 01 670 5630 cellar wine bar. Top-notch classic dishes. At the Eclair De Luxe Bar,
A tiny, buzzing café serving cuisine; try the Oysters Bienville diners can enjoy delicious comfort
tasty pizza slices, bruschetta, or the stuffed loin of rabbit. food in custom-built train booths.
and pasta dishes, as well as fine Excellent cocktail lounge.
coffee. Open into the evening. The Green Hen €€
French-Irish Map D4 L’Écrivain €€€
37 Dawson St €€ 33 Exchequer Street, Dublin 2 French-Irish Map F5
European Map D4 Tel 01 670 7238 109a Lower Baggot Street, Dublin 2
37 Dawson Street, Dublin 2 The authentic Parisian-café vibe Tel 01 661 1919 Closed Sun
Tel 01 902 2908 here is the perfect accompani- The menu at this Michelin-starred
Expect delicious dishes and ment to the terrific food and restaurant mixes French cuisine
tempting cocktails in this hip cocktails. Duck confit and assiette with Irish delicacies and features
restaurant bar. Whiskey-lovers of pork are among the highlights. scallops, venison and foie gras.
are in for a treat with a fantastic Impeccable service.
selection from across the world. L’Gueuleton €€
French Map C4 Peploe’s Wine Bistro €€€
DK Choice 1 Fade Street, Dublin 2 Bistro Map D4
Tel 01 675 3708
16 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2
Avoca Restaurant €€ This charming bistro offers a Tel 01 676 3144
Irish Map D3 menu featuring French specialities This place in the basement of an
11–13 Suffolk Street, Dublin 2 and some local touches: snails elegant Georgian town house
Tel 01 672 6019 in garlic, pastis butter and serves excellent steaks and
This bright loft restaurant atop Corleggy goat’s cheese. quality wines. Advance booking
the eponymous Irish crafts shop highly recommended.
is always busy. Imaginative salads, The Woollen Mills €€
generous sandwiches, hot dishes Modern Irish Map D3 Pichet €€€
and irresistible desserts make 42 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 Bistro Map D3
the wait worth while. Daytime Tel 01 828 0835 14–15 Trinity Street, Dublin 2
opening hours only. There’s a A sprawling “eating house” spread Tel 01 677 1060
cheaper deli with a few tables over four floors of an old haber- Exquisite food and perfect service
in the basement. dashery, with a huge terrace in a relaxed atmosphere. Try the
overlooking the Ha’penny Bridge. pork cheek, crispy belly and the
The food is fresh with a focus on frozen Espresso Bombe to finish.
Cornucopia €€
Vegetarian Map D3
19 Wicklow Street, Dublin 2
Tel 01 677 7583
Diners can choose from a wide
range of tasty and wholesome
vegetarian and vegan dishes at
the counter – hot plates, wraps,
salads and guilt-free desserts.
Dada €€
Moroccan Map D4
45 South William Street, Dublin 2
Tel 01 617 0777
At this atmospheric,
sumptuously decor ated
restaurant, the fantastic tagines
and couscous dishes are all
authentically presented. Gastro-haven Avenue by Nick Munier in southeast Dublin
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 308 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 309
Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud €€€
French fine dining Map E5
21 Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2
Tel 01 676 4192 Closed Sun, Mon,
bank hols; Christmas wk
Diners come to this restaurant
boasting two Michelin stars
for the imaginative, contem po
rary French menu. Book your
table in advance.
Shanahans on The Green €€€
Steakhouse Map D5
119 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2
Tel 01 407 0939 Closed Sun
Dublin’s biggest, juiciest, finest
Americanstyle steaks are served
in a splendid Georgian dining
room. Excellent seafood, too. The cosy interior of The Queen of Tarts café, southwest Dublin
Trocadero €€€ The Queen of Tarts € Jo’Burger Town €€
Bistro Map F5 Irish baking Map C3 Irish Map D4
4 Andrew Street, Dublin 2 4 Cork Hill, Dame Street, Dublin 2 4–5 Castle Market, Dublin 2
Tel 01 677 5545 Tel 01 670 7499 ∑ joburger.ie
This has been Dublin’s most Great brunches, soups, savoury The gravitydefying Irish beef and
hallowed theatre restaurant since dishes and, most importantly, lamb burgers here are piled high
1956. Famed for its steaks, it also magnificent cakes can be with delicious combinations of
serves savoury pâtés, fresh fish enjoyed at this quaint café cheeses, relishes and other tasty
and classic desserts. opposite City Hall. ingredients. Inventive salads and
a choice of veggie burgers too.
Unicorn €€€ The Chameleon Restaurant €€
Italian Map F5 Asian Map C3 Monty’s of Kathmandu €€
12b Merrion Court, Merrion Row, 1 Lower Fownes Street, Temple Bar, Nepalese Map C3
Dublin 2 Dublin 2 28 Eustace Street, Dublin 2
Tel 01 676 2182 Closed Sun Tel 01 671 0362 Closed Mon Tel 01 670 4911
Mediterraneaninspired food – The menu here offers Asian tapas, Friendly, popular restaurant with
homemade gnocchi, rigatoni, Indonesian cuisine, and Irish beef, interesting fish, chicken and lamb
Irish lobster and truffle risotto. chicken and seafood. Javanese short dishes in fragrant, creamy sauces.
Children are welcome until 9pm. rib of beef served in a staranise Full coeliac menu and an
infused kecap manis is a musttry. extensive vegetarian selection.
Southwest Dublin Chez Max €€ Odessa €€
Leo Burdock’s € French Map C3 American bistro Map D3
Fish and chips Map B4 1 Palace Street, Dublin 2 13–14 Dame Court, Dublin 2
2 Werburgh Street, Christchurch, Tel 01 633 7215 Tel 01 670 7634
Dublin 8 Enjoy classic French favourites – With a chic retro vibe, Odessa
Tel 01 454 0306 moules frites, rabbit rillettes and is renowned for its fancy
Dublin’s oldest chipper offers mousse au chocolat – right by weekend brunches – decadent
good, honest fish and chips – the gates of Dublin Castle. A fan fryups, eggs Benedict, Bellinis.
tasty ray, lemon sole and cod. tastic earlybird menu is available The menu has a decent selection
There are branches on Liffey 5:30–7pm (Sun–Thu). of dishes for vegetarians too.
Street and in Phibsboro, too.
Cleaver East €€ The Porthouse €€
Neon € European Map C3 Tapas Map D4
Asian street food Map C5 East Essex Street, Temple Bar, Dublin 2 64A South William Street, Dublin 2
17 Camden Street, Dublin 2 Tel 01 531 3500 Tel 01 677 0298
Tel 01 405 2222 This popular eatery serves sharing Spanish heaven in the heart of
This is a great place for groups plates of lobster dumplings, Dublin, this restaurant serves a
and children. Try the pad thai or oriental mushrooms and lemon wide selection of tasty tapas like
one of the curries, which range grass broth, cushion of venison deepfried Tetilla cheese, served
from mild to extra hot. Pour your with braised red cabbage and wild with tomato salad and honey.
own free whipped icecream mushrooms and much more.
cone for dessert. Rustic Stone €€
Elephant and Castle €€ Irish Map C4
Pitt Bros € American brasserie Map D3 17 South Great George’s Street,
American Map C3 19 Temple Bar, Dublin 2 Dublin 2
Unit 1, Wicklow House, South Great Tel 01 679 3121 Tel 01 707 9596
George’s Street, Dublin 2 There is no need to prebook at Chef Dylan McGrath’s restaurant
Tel 01 677 8777 this lively eatery. California salads, puts great emphasis on nutrition,
Extremely popular with meat generous burgers and omelettes seasonality and local ingredients.
lovers, Pitt Bros’ signature style is are all good, and the chicken Meat and fish are served on a
slowcooked cuts. The brisket wings are a definite winner. hot volcanic stone, so diners
and pulled pork are favourites. Great for weekend brunch. can cook them to their liking.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 309 08/03/17 11:43 am
310 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Soder + Ko €€
Asian Map C4
64 South Great George’s Street,
Dublin 2
Tel 01 478 1590
An eclectic menu offering dim
sum, Korean steamed buns,
platters of crispy duck pancakes
and chicken yakitori. Live music
on selected evenings (Thu–Sat).
Yamamori Izakaya €€
Japanese-Chinese Map C3
12–13 South Great George’s Street,
Dublin 2
Tel 01 645 8001
Set in the old Bewley’s building,
this café boasts grand Oriental
decor with a laid-back vibe. There’s The stylish booths of Chapter One, north of the Liffey, Dublin
sushi and dim sum, and a lively
Japanese cocktail bar downstairs. menu. Founded in 1913 by a L. Mulligan. Grocer €€
Russian immigrant who came Irish Map A2
Delahunt €€€ from a long line of fishermen. 18 Stoneybatter, Dublin 7
Irish Map C5 Tel 01 670 9889 Closed Mon
39 Camden Street Lwr, Dublin 2 Fish Shop € This gastro pub in an old grocer's
Tel 01 598 4880 Seafood Map A2 shop has a delectable menu
In a lovely Victorian building, No. 6 Queen Street, Smithfield, featuring spiced potted crab,
this restaurant uses tra di tional Dublin 7 wild venison burger and slow-
cooking techniques to create a ∑ fish-shop.ie Closed Mon roast pork belly. Excellent beers.
unique Irish menu. The specialities A quirky restaurant with an
include home curing and smoking, intimate walled and roofed Musashi Noodle & Sushi Bar €€
slow cooked braises, pickles, garden. Try fried oysters, wood- Sushi Map C3
preserves and bread making. roasted mackerel or beer- 15 Capel Street, Dublin 1
battered catch of the day. Tel 01 532 8068
The Lord Edward €€€ Fresh sushi is served in this
Seafood Map B4 Lovinspoon € bustling and friendly restaurant.
23 Christ Church Place, Dublin 8 Irish Map C1 Noodle dishes are also recom-
Tel 01 454 2420 Closed Sun–Tue 15 North Frederick Street, Dublin 1 mended and you can bring
Located above a traditional Tel 01 804 7604 Closed Sun your own alcohol.
pub, offering charming service Generous all-day breakfasts and
and classic fish dishes such as creative lunches can be enjoyed Chapter One €€€
dressed crab and Galway bay at this friendly café. European Map C1
oysters. Good steaks, too. 18–19 Parnell Square North, Dublin 1
Panem € Tel 01 873 2266 Closed Sun & Mon;
Italian Map C3 1–14 Aug & 24 Dec–7 Jan
North of the Liffey 21 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1 This Michelin-starred eatery in
Beshoff’s € Tel 01 872 8510 Closed Sun, the cosy and characterful cellar
Fish and chips Map D2 24 Dec–8 Jan of the Dublin Writers Museum
6 Upper O’Connell Street, Dublin 1 Quayside café/bakery serving offers a creative menu. The pre-
Tel 01 872 4400 sweet brioche, savoury focaccia, theatre deal is popular.
Delicious catch of the day, plus almond biscuits, great coffee and
non-fish options and a children’s a deliciously dark hot chocolate. The Winding Stair €€€
Open only during the day. Irish Map C3
40 Lower Ormond Quay, Dublin 1
Le Bon Crubeen €€ Tel 01 872 7320
Irish-French Map E2 Overlooking the iconic Ha’penny
81–82 Talbot Street, Dublin 1 Bridge, this charming restaurant
Tel 01 704 0126 also has a bookshop/gallery. The
Classic fare – scallops, Kerry lamb, simple dishes include potted
pork belly – in cosy surroundings. crab claws and calf’s liver with
There are also great weekend mustard mash. Craft beers and
brunches and a good-value pre- wines from boutique makers.
theatre menu. Jazz on Saturdays.
The Church €€ Further Afield
Irish Map C2 Olive €
Jervis Street, Dublin 1 Irish Road map D3
Tel 01 828 0102 86a Strand Street, Skerries, Co Dublin
A four-storey venue in a historic Tel 01 849 0310
building with a huge terrace. Bar A good stop for an informal
food is available, or try the Gallery alfresco lunch near the beach.
Historic Beshoff’s, serving fantastic Restaurant for hearty dishes such Fresh soups, paninis and delec-
fish and chips, Dublin as beef and Guinness pie. table home-baked cookies.
For key to prices see page 308
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 310 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 311
Caviston’s DK Choice Harbour, specialities here
Seafood Restaurant €€ include Hereford beef steaks,
Seafood Road map D4 Aqua €€€ salt and pepper squid and
Glasthule, Sandycove, Co Dublin Californian- roast spiced pears. Beautiful
Tel 01 280 9245 Closed Sun Italian Road map D3 decor and ambience.
& Mon 1 West Pier, Howth, Co Dublin
Stunning seafood is prepared Tel 01 832 0690 Closed Mon King Sitric €€€
with confidence and flair here; & Tue Seafood Road map D3
try the pan-fried haddock or the A former yacht club, this East Pier, Howth, Co Dublin
chargrilled sardines. Advance contemporary restaurant boasts Tel 01 832 5235 Closed Mon & Tue
booking recommended. The incredible views – from both the in winter
adjoining delicatessen sells first-floor vantage point and This award-winning restaurant is
artisanal foods great for a picnic. the full-length windows on all named after the medieval Norse
sides – on to the choppy seas king of Dublin. In a stylish room,
Forest Avenue €€ and vast sunsets at Howth diners enjoy such specialities
Modern Irish Road map D4 Harbour. Service is attentive, and as crab mornay and black
8 Sussex Terrace, Ballsbridge the food is elegantly presented. sole meunière.
Tel 01 667 8337 Specialities include lobster and
This exciting addition to the crayfish salad and fillet of beef. Locks €€€
Dublin restaurant scene offers a French Road map D4
five-course tasting menu which 1 Windsor Terrace, Dublin 8
changes frequently in order to Bastible €€€ Tel 01 416 3655
incorporate the freshest seasonal Modern Irish Overlooking the leafy Grand
ingredients, giving them a Nordic 111 South Circular Road, Dublin 8 Canal, Locks is one of Dublin's
twist in the cooking. Tel 01 473 7409 Closed Mon & Tue best dining rooms. The seasonal
This neighbourhood bistro in the Market Menu is superb value.
Johnnie Fox’s €€ heart of Dublin 8 is one of the Sunday lunch is sumptuous, and
Irish Road map D4 city’s most exciting restaurants. served from noon to 4pm.
Glencullen, Co Dublin The menu changes regularly, but
Tel 01 295 5647 is always creative and surprising. The Lobster Pot €€€
Located 30 minutes south of There is an excellent wine list too. Seafood Road map D4
the city, on top of the Dublin 9 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge,
Moun tains, this friendly pub Bon Appetit €€€ Dublin 4
serves up hearty Irish food and French Road map D4 Tel 01 668 0025 Closed Sun
traditional music. 9 St James Terrace, Malahide, This sophisticated restaurant
Co Dublin tantalizes with Kilmore crab
Juniors Deli & Café €€ Tel 01 845 0314 Closed Mon and Dublin Bay prawns. Steaks
Irish-Italian Road map D4 Michelin-starred fine dining in and roast duckling flamed
2 Bath Avenue, Dublin 4 an elegant Georgian town house with Grand Marnier are also
Tel 01 664 3648 near the marina. Menu favourites on the menu.
Swing by this informal deli, which include seafood and rump of
serves the best chargrilled chicken Wicklow lamb. The basement Roly’s €€€
sandwich in Dublin. Open for houses a more informal brasserie. Bistro Road map D4
brunch and dinner. If you feel 7 Ballsbridge Terrace, Ballsbridge,
more like a slice, then visit Paulie’s Hartley’s €€€ Dublin 4
Pizza, their pizzeria next door. Irish Road map D4 Tel 01 668 2611
1 Harbour Road, Dun Laoghaire, Come to this lively bistro in the
Ouzo’s €€ Co Dublin heart of Ballsbridge for colourful,
Seafood Road map D4 Tel 01 280 6767 Closed Mon aromatic food – Kerry lamb pie,
22 Castle Street, Dalkey, Co Dublin Housed in the old Kingstown roast monkfish, Dublin Bay
Tel 01 285 1890 train station, by Dun Laoghaire prawns. The downstairs café is
A cosy neighbourhood favourite, the place to buy freshly baked
with fabulous local seafood and bread to take away.
sumptuous, cut-to-order steaks.
Specialities include the Great
Crab and Lobster Feast. Barrel
wines and satisfying desserts. Southeast Ireland
Rasam €€ BALLYMACARBRY:
Indian Road map D4 Hanora’s Cottage €€€
18–19 Glasthule Road, Sandycove, Modern Irish Road map C5
Dun Laoghaire, Co Dublin Nire Valley, Ballymacarbry,
Tel 01 230 0600 Co Waterford
This plush Indian restaurant Tel 052 613 6134 Closed Sun;
boasts chefs from all across 7 days at Christmas
the South Asian subcontinent – A pleasant restaurant aimed
Bengal, Orissa, Rajasthan. Fine, chiefly at residents of the
fragrant specialities include guesthouse, but open to all.
beetroot chicken, barrah nalli Tuck into the pan-fried hake
(lamb shank marinated in onions, fillet with celeriac purée as
cardamom, cloves and yoghurt) you enjoy the lovely views of
and phirni (broken rice and Warm, intimate interiors of The Lobster the garden and riverscape.
saffron pudding). Pot, Dublin Reservations essential.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 311 08/03/17 11:43 am
312 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
BLESSINGTON: KILKENNY:
Grangecon Café € DK Choice Ristorante Rinuccini €€
Modern Irish Road map D4 DUNGARVAN: Italian Road map C4
Lake Road, Blessington, Co Wicklow The Tannery €€€ 1 The Parade, Kilkenny, Co Kilkenny
Tel 045 857 892 Closed Sun & Mon Modern Irish Road map 5C Tel 056 776 575
An excellent lunchtime venue 10 Quay Street, Dungarvan, Enjoy a range of classic Italian
serving a small range of dishes Co Waterford dishes with an inventive Irish
prepared with locally sourced and Tel 058 454 20 Closed Mon spin, an extensive wine list and
largely organic ingredients. Bring Well-known chef/proprietor white tablecloths. No pizzas.
your own wine. Paul Flynn cooks up a storm in
this converted tannery building, KILKENNY: Zuni €€
CAMPILE: Georgian Tea Rooms € now a restaurant and cookery Modern European Road map C4
Home cooking Road map D5 school. His menus change with 26 Patrick Street, Kilkenny, Co Kilkenny
Great Island, Campile, Co Wexford the seasons and use locally Tel 056 772 3999 Closed 25 & 26 Dec
Tel 051 388 109 Closed winter caught fish, local cheeses and Imaginary fusion cooking served
Enjoy a range of hearty soups, organic meats; the vegetables in a boutique hotel with sleek
stuffed paninis and more in the travel no further than from the rooms. Food locally sourced.
beautiful Georgian conservatory kitchen garden across the road.
or alfresco, and then spend some The set menu offers good value DK Choice
time wandering the gardens. for money.
KILKENNY: Campagne €€€
CARLOW: Lennons @ Visual €€ French Road map C4
Irish Road map D4 ENNISKERRY: Poppies € 5 Gas House Lane, Kilkenny,
Visual Centre for Contemporary Art, Traditional Irish Road map D4 Co Kilkenny
Old Dublin Road, Carlow, Co Carlow The Square, Enniskerry, Co Wicklow Tel 056 777 2858 Closed dinner
Tel 59 917 9245 Tel 01 282 8869 Sun, Mon & Tue (after bank hols)
Good, locally sourced food, great Village eatery serving quiches, A stylish place with oak flooring,
cakes and pastries are on the tartiflette, beef and Guinness pie, banquette seating and artworks
menu here. Silverhill Irish duck as well as gorgeous cakes and on the walls. Locally sourced
breast is a speciality. breads. There are a few tables ingredients are used to create
inside, and more on the street. excellent French dishes with an
CARNE: Irish twist at this Michelin-starred
Lobster Pot Seafood Bar €€ GOREY: Marlfield House €€€ restaurant. Try the wood pigeon
Modern European Road map D5 Modern European Road map D4 or the spring lamb. A thoughtful
Ballyfane, Carne, Co Wexford Courtdown Road, Co Wexford wine list and attentive staff
Tel 053 913 1110 Closed Mon; Jan Tel 053 942 1124 complete the experience.
Though it is mainly seafood at White tablecloths, silver service
this cute old pub, the menu has and a marvellous atmosphere.
plenty of variety. Children are Much of the veg on your plate is DK Choice
allowed only at lunchtimes. grown in the restaurant’s own
garden. Reservations required. KILMACANOGUE:
CELBRIDGE: La Serre €€€ Sugar Tree Café €€
Modern Irish Road map D4 GREYSTONES: Home cooking Road map D2
Village Lyons Demesne, Co Kildare The Happy Pear €€ Kilmacanogue, Bray, Co Wicklow
Tel 01 630 3500 Closed Mon & Tue Vegetarian Road map D4 Tel 01 274 6939
Conservatory restaurant serving Church Road, Greystones, Excellent self-service restaurant
freshly cooked fare in an informal Co Wicklow in a renovated pavilion in the
environment. Eat inside, or out in Tel 01 287 3655 former Jameson distillery, now
the pretty courtyard. A family-run restaurant, The Happy part of the Avoca complex. The
Pear serves scrumptious, healthy convivial atmosphere and huge
dishes. There is also a grocery portions of traditional Irish
store next door which sells fresh, home-cooked meals make this
organic and seasonal produce. place a must-visit destination
and perfect for children.
GREYSTONES: The Three Q’s €€
International Road map D4
Church Road, Greystones, KILMACOW: The Thatch €
Co Wicklow Pub food Road map D5
Tel 01 287 5477 Closed dinner Mon Grannagh, Kilmacow, Co Kilkenny
This award-winning restaurant is Tel 051 872 876
considered to be an institution in Better-than-average pub food –
Wicklow. Try their lemon sole juicy burgers, fresh seafood, and
with prawn and crabmeat filling. salads – are served in a friendly
environment. Live music on Weds.
KILDARE:
Silken Thomas Chapter 16 €€ KILMORE QUAY:
Modern Irish Road map D4 The Silver Fox €€
The Square, Kildare, Co Kildare European-Asian Road map D5
Tel 045 522 232 Kilmore Quay, Co Wexford
Pub-restaurant serving big Tel 053 912 9888 Closed Mon–Thu
portions of family favourites in (Nov–Feb)
Canopied entrance of the beautiful Marfield a comfortable setting. Check The simple dishes – mainly
House, Gorey out the weekend lunch offers. locally caught fish and seafood,
For key to prices see page 308
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 312 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 313
something to satisfy all palates.
The early-bird menu is great
value for money.
WATERFORD: La Boheme €€
French Road map D5
2 George’s Street, Waterford,
Co Waterford
Tel 051 875 645 Closed Mon;
25–27 Dec
An elegant restaurant with stone
floors, mood lighting and vaulted
ceilings. Classic French cuisine is
given an Irish twist. As well as
being vegetarian- and coeliac-
friendly, the menu is MSG-free.
WEXFORD: Cistin Eile €
Sophisticated dining at La Boheme, Waterford Modern Irish Road map D5
80 Sth Main St, Wexford, Co Wexford
though there is something for TRAMORE: The Copper Hen €€ Tel 053 912 1616 Closed Sun
everyone – are enlivened by a Modern European Road map C5 Imaginative fare in no-nonsense
taste of the Orient. Artworks by Fenor, Tramore, Co Waterford surroundings. Choosing the set
Ivan Sutton decorate the room. Tel 051 330 300 Closed Mon & Tue menu brings this smart place
(summer), Mon–Wed (winter) into the budget range. There is
LEIGHLINBRIDGE: This place serves big portions of a small but intelligent wine list.
Lord Bagenal Restaurant €€ simple, well-cooked food. Great
Traditional Irish Road map D4 value for money, it also offers lots WEXFORD: La Cote €€
Main St, Leighlinbridge, Co Carlow of room, which makes it popular Seafood Road map D5
Tel 059 977 4000 with families at Sunday lunchtime. Church Lane, Wexford, Co Wexford
Tuck into a good-value meal in Tel 053 912 2122
this well-regarded restaurant. THOMASTOWN: A fine seafood restaurant offering
More informal fare is served daily Blackberry Café € seasonal menus with locally
in the traditional bar. Home cooking Road map C4 sourced and foraged ingredients.
Market Street, Thomastown, Dishes such as the pan-seared
MACREDDIN VILLAGE: Co Kilkenny Kilmore hake with cauliflower
The Strawberry Tree Tel 086 775 303 Closed Sun and truffle purée are the perfect
at Brook Lodge €€€ Home-made soups, sandwiches comfort food.
Organic Road map D4 and salads, plus an array of cakes
The Brooke Lodge, Macreddin Village, and pastries, in a pleasant all-day WEXFORD: Greenacres €€
Co Wicklow eatery that is popular with the Modern Irish Road map D5
Tel 090 236 444 Closed Mon (except local community. Friendly service. Selskar, Wexford, Co Wexford
Aug) Tel 053 912 2975
Ireland’s only certified organic THOMASTOWN: The airy dining room is lined with
restaurant serves simply cooked, The Lady Helen €€€ bottles of wine, which you can
good-quality organic and International Road map C4 enjoy with your meal or purchase
foraged food. Try the baked wild Mount Juliet, Thomastown, to take home. The set menu is
hake with rainbow chard or the Co Kilkenny fantastic value.
home-made arancini with wild Tel 056 777 3000 (ext. 1113)
garlic pesto. Closed Sun, Tue
This Michelin-starred restaurant is
NAAS: Brown Bear €€ perfect for a special occasion, with Cork and Kerry
Modern European Road map D4 gorgeous plasterwork and views
Two Mile House, Naas, Co Kildare out over the estate. Classic dishes BALLYBUNION:
Tel 045 883 561 Closed Mon & Tue with a modern twist. Kilcooly’s Country House €€€
High-quality food at down- Traditional Irish Road map A5
to-earth prices. The menu is WATERFORD: The Ginger Man € Ballybunion, Co Kerry
vegetarian- and coeliac-friendly, Pub food Road map D5 Tel 068 27112 Closed Mon & Tue
and most ingredients are sourced 6–7 Arundel Lane, Waterford, (Nov–Mar)
locally – many are even grown in Co Waterford Victorian guesthouse offering
the restaurant’s own garden. Tel 051 879 522 both bar food and fine dining
Booking advised at weekends. This busy place offers large (Apr–Oct). The restaurant has
portions of better-than-average live piano music on summer
ROUNDWOOD: pub food – wraps, paninis, soups, weekends. Good children’s menu.
The Roundwood Inn €€ steak sandwiches and more.
European Road map D4 BALLYCOTTON: Capriccio €€€
Main Street, Roundwood, Co Wicklow WATERFORD: Bodega €€ Modern Irish Road map C6
Tel 01 281 8107 Closed Mon–Thu Mediterranean Road map D5 The Bayview Hotel, Ballycotton, Co Cork
An extensive wine list biased 54 John St, Waterford, Co Waterford Tel 021 464 6746 Closed Nov–Mar
towards European offerings Tel 051 844 177 Closed Sun Expect some serious cooking at
complements the home-cooked A sunny, friendly place serving this family-owned and-run eatery
food at this traditional pub with locally sourced food – mainly serving predominantly seafood.
open log fires. Booking essential. fish and seafood, but there is There is also a vegetarian menu.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 313 08/03/17 11:43 am
314 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
CORK CITY:
Jacob’s on the Mall €€
Modern European Road map C6
30 Sth Mall, Cork City
Tel 021 425 1530 Closed Sun, bank
hols; 2 days at Christmas
A former Turkish bathhouse
provides the atmospheric setting
for stylish, modern food. Set-price
menus are available all evening
for the budget-conscious.
CORK CITY: Café Paradiso €€€
Vegetarian Road map C6
16 Lancaster Quay, Cork City
Tel 021 427 7939 Closed Sun; 7 days
at Christmas
Ireland’s most famous vegetarian
Sample inventive vegetarian dishes at Café Paradiso, Cork City restaurant serves inventive and
complex dishes, such as kale and
BALLYDEHOB: Antonio’s €€ risotto. It gets very busy with smoked Ardrahan cheese ravioli,
Italian Road map B6 locals at lunchtime, so it is best feta and pistachio couscous.
Main Street, Ballydehob, Co Cork to book a table, especially in
Tel 028 37139 Closed Mon the summer. CORK CITY:
(summer); call for winter hours Greene’s Restaurant €€€
An authentic pizzeria in a lovely BLARNEY: Blair’s Inn €€€ Modern European Road map C6
old stone building serving pasta Traditional Irish Road map B5 48 MacCurtain Street, Cork City
dishes, steaks and seafood. Cloghroe, Blarney, Co Cork Tel 021 455 2279 Closed 3 days at
Booking advised in the summer. Tel 021 438 1470 Christmas
Award-winning pub serving Come to this art-filled restaurant
BALTIMORE: excellent home-cooked food, for an interesting, modern take
Casey’s of Baltimore €€ either in the bar or the restaurant. on traditional Irish cooking. Ask
Seafood Road map B6 Classic traditional dishes – lemon for a seat overlooking the pretty
Baltimore, Co Cork sole in butter, shepherd’s pie, courtyard waterfall.
Tel 028 20197 sausages and mash – sit alongside
Organic vegetables straight from more unusual offerings. CORK CITY: The Ivory Tower €€€
their kitchen garden paired with Asian fusion Road map C6
the freshest black sole, monkfish, CASTLETOWNSHEND: 1st Floor, 35 Princes Street, Cork City
lobster and prawns make this a Mary Ann’s Bar €€ Tel 021 427 4665 Closed Sun–Wed
must stop for any food lover. European Road map B6 This is as eclectic as it gets, from
Main St, Castletownshend, Co Cork the food – a mix of Japanese,
BALTIMORE: Mews €€€ Tel 028 36146 Closed Mon & Tue Mexican and traditional Irish
Modern Irish Road map B6 (winter); 3 wks Jan dishes – to the bric-a-brac and
Baltimore, Co Cork A well-loved pub with a restaurant artwork decorating the room.
Tel 028 20572 Closed winter; check upstairs and lots of outside tables
website for alfresco dining in the summer. DINGLE: The Half Door €€
One of the finest restaurants in The seafood menu changes Traditional Irish Road map A5
Ireland, Mews is an ideal marriage according to the daily catch, and John Street, Dingle, Co Kerry
of modern and traditional. Ingred- portions are generous. Also on Tel 066 915 1600 Closed Sun
ients gathered each morning are the menu are poultry, steaks Within this country cottage-
used in inspiring ways, resulting and roasts. style building, the menu is
in an unforgettable dining predominantly seafood, simply
experience. Booking essential. CORK CITY: cooked and served in generous
Crawford Gallery Café € portions. Book in the summer.
BANDON: Warren Allen Coffee € Irish Road map C6
Café Road map B6 Emmet Place, Cork City DK Choice
9–11 Pearse Street, Bandon, Co Cork Tel 021 427 4415 Closed Sun, bank
Tel 023 882 0767 Closed evenings hols; 10 days Dec–Jan DINGLE: Lord Baker’s
Always buzzing with chatter and From soups and sandwiches to Restaurant and Bar €€
the smell of freshly ground coffee, more substantial lunches, there Traditional Irish Road map A5
this contemporary coffee shop in is plenty on the menu at this art- Main Street, Dingle, Co Kerry
a boutique store is perfect for gallery café to satisfy all palates. Tel 066 915 1277 Closed Thu
recharging the batteries. This ancient pub – with its stone
CORK CITY: Farmgate Café € walls, open fires and country-
BANTRY: O’Connor’s Traditional Irish Road map C6 inn decorations – has a warm
Seafood Restaurant €€ English Market, Princes Street, and welcoming atmosphere,
Seafood Road map B6 Cork City whether you eat in the bar or
Wolf Tone Square, Bantry, Co Cork Tel 021 427 8134 Closed Sun, bank the restaurant. A pretty
Tel 027 55664 hols; 10 days Dec–Jan conservatory opens out into a
Long-established place serving Traditional local dishes – sausage walled garden. Dishes include
delicious and affordable fare – and mash, shepherd’s pie – are sirloin steak with pepper sauce
fish and chips, seafood pie and made with fresh ingredients from and Dingle Bay crab claws.
monkfish and smoked venison the bustling market downstairs.
For key to prices see page 308
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 314 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 315
DINGLE: Out of the Blue €€ café food – open sandwiches,
Seafood Road map A5 tasty pâtés and local cheeses.
Waterside, Dingle, Co Kerry Free WiFi.
Tel 066 915 0811 Closed Nov–Mar
A small bar cooking freshly KENMARE:
caught fish in classical style. Book Lime Tree Restaurant €€
ahead, especially in the summer. Modern Irish Road map B6
Shelbourne Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry
DINGLE: The Chart House €€€ Tel 064 664 1225 Closed Nov–Mar
Modern Irish Road map A5 Housed in a lovely stone building,
The Mall, Dingle, Co Kerry this restaurant offers classic
Tel 066 915 2255 dishes with a twist. Vegetarian
Closed 2 Jan–12 Feb options are available.
Innovative dishes are made with
the finest locally sourced ingred KENMARE: Mulcahy’s €€
ients here, such as Annascaul Modern Irish Road map B6
black pudding, Cromane mussels Main Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry
and Skeaghanore duck. Tel 064 664 2383 Closed Mon
This place draws diners with its
DURRUS: Good Things Café €€ fusion of Irish ingredients and
Modern Irish Road map B6 Asian flavours. There is a pleasant Tempting cakes and pastries on
Durrus, near Bantry, Co Cork bar area and welcoming staff. offer at Jam, Killarney
Tel 027 61426 Closed Sun & Mon
Inventive seasonal fare based on KENMARE: Packie’s €€ twist. Try the pork belly cooked
local ingredients is served in an airy Modern Irish Road map B6 in whiskey, Calvados and honey,
room with a view of the kitchen. 35 Henry Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry or the ox tongue and quail salad.
Tel 064 664 1508 Closed Sun; mid-
DURRUS: Blairscove €€€ Jan–mid-Feb KILLARNEY: Treyvaud’s €€
Modern European Road map B6 Fresh seafood dominates the International Road map B5
Durrus, near Bantry, Co Cork menu here, but there is also 62 High Street, Killarney, Co Kerry
Tel 027 61127 Closed Sun & Mon; Irish stew and rack of lamb. Tel 064 663 3062 Closed Mon
Nov–mid-Mar (Sep–May)
Booking is essential for this KILLARNEY: Jam € The wellrespected menu here
eatery with a longestablished Café food Road map B5 features game in season, as well
reputation. Lovely desserts. Old Market Lane, Killarney, Co Kerry as more unusual offerings, such
Tel 064 663 7716 Closed Sun; 4 days as guinea fowl. Vegetarian and
GOLEEN: Heron’s Cove €€ at Christmas seafood options, too.
Modern Irish Road map B6 Roomy café serving sandwiches,
Harbour Road, Goleen, Co Cork quiches, lasagne and other home KILLARNEY:
Tel 028 352 25 Closed limited hours cooked staples. Desserts include Gaby’s Seafood Restaurant €€€
Nov–Mar; call for details. breadandbutter pudding and a French-Irish Road map B5
A longestablished place in a delicious lemon meringue. 27 High Street, Killarney, Co Kerry
pretty shoreside location. Local Tel 064 663 2519 Closed Sun; 7 days
seafood and meats are cooked KILLARNEY: at Christmas & New Year
simply. Reservations essential. Lord Kenmare’s Restaurant €€ The focus is seafood at this long
Modern Irish Road map B5 established restaurant. The
KENMARE: Purple Heather € College Street, Killarney, Co Kerry signature dish of lobster is cooked
Home cooking Road map B6 Tel 064 663 1294 Closed Mon & Tue in Cognac, wine and cream.
Henry Street, Kenmare, Co Kerry (Jan); 3 days at Christmas
Tel 064 664 1016 Closed Sun, bank Above the popular Murphy’s Bar, KILLARNEY:
hols; 1 wk at Christmas with its homely pub menu, Lord The Garden Room €€€
At the back of a dark, 1970sstyle Kenmare’s Restaurant offers International Road map B5
bar is a restaurant serving simple classic dishes with a modern The Malton Hotel, Killarney,
Co Kerry
Tel 064 663 800
A grand dining room in an old
railway hotel, with elegant
furnishings and domed ceilings.
Classic, wellcooked dishes.
KILLORGLIN:
Nick’s Seafood Restaurant €€€
Seafood Road map A5
Lower Bridge Street, Killorglin,
Co Kerry
Tel 066 976 1219 Closed Mon & Tue
(summer), Sun–Wed (winter); 2 days
at Christmas
In this spacious dining room
above a piano bar, both the early
bird and the bar menu offer
great value, and there is plenty
Elegant dining hall at Blairscove, Durrus for vegetarians, too.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 315 08/03/17 11:43 am
316 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
KINSALE: Fishy Fishy €€ KINSALE: Max’s Wine Bar €€€ that also features good plain
Modern seafood Road map B6 Traditional French Road map B6 dishes such as leek and potato
Crowleys Quay, Kinsale, Co Cork 48 Main Street, Kinsale, Co Cork soup, roast duckling and steaks.
Tel 021 470 0415 Tel 021477 2443 Closed bank hols;
A smart seafood restaurant mid-Nov–mid-Mar PORTMAGEE: The Moorings €€
spread over two floors and A popular place with lots of Modern Irish Road map A5
offering simple, freshly cooked light. The menu is heavily biased Portmagee, Co Kerry
dishes. Booking is advised towards seafood; vegetarians Tel 066 947 7108
during peak season. might struggle. The daily catch is always super-
fresh – it only has to travel from
KINSALE: Spaniard Inn €€ LISTOWEL: the harbour across the road
European Road map B6 Allo’s Restaurant €€ before reaching the kitchen!
Scilly, Kinsale, Co Cork Modern Irish Road map B5
Tel 021 477 2436 41 Church Street, Listowel, Co Kerry SHANAGARRY:
This old pub and dining room Tel 068 22880 Closed Sun & Mon; Ballymaloe House €€€
serves simple but well-loved 3 days at Christmas Home cooking Road map C6
dishes – seafood chowder, This pub/restaurant decorated Shanagarry, Co Cork
rack of lamb, steaks. Open with salvaged items serves good, Tel 021 465 2531
fires, beamed ceilings and inventive food. Thursdays are A famous country house where
traditional music. theme nights, featuring a different traditions are main tained. Much
style of cuisine each week. of the produce is grown on the
KINSALE: Bastion €€€ estate. Reservations are essential.
European Road map B6 MALLOW:
Market Street, Kinsale, Kinsale, Co President’s Restaurant €€€ TRALEE:
Cork Traditional French Road map B5 The Oyster Tavern €€
Tel 021 470 9696 Longueville House, Mallow, Co Cork Seafood Road map A5
This Michelin Bib Gourmand- Tel 022 471 56 Closed Mon & Tue The Spa, Tralee, Co Kerry
awarded restaurant lets you eat Enjoy a grand dining experience Tel 066 713 6102 Closed Good Fri,
to suit your mood – sit at the bar in a stunning Georgian mansion. 25 Dec
and enjoy small plates with Advance booking is necessary. This large, modern eatery with
prosecco on tap, or sit down for Afternoon tea is served 2–5pm. lovely views over the bay serves
a three-course meal. Either superb-quality seafood and
way, enjoy exciting food in a MITCHELSTOWN: more. Vegetarians will fare
relaxed setting. O’Callaghan’s € well here.
Café food Road map C5
YOUGHAL:
DK Choice Lower Cork Street, Mitchelstown, Aherne’s Seafood Bar €€€
Co Cork
KINSALE: Tel 025 24657 Closed Sun Seafood Road map C5
Man Friday €€€ Enjoy sandwiches, paninis, soups 163 N Main Street, Youghal, Co Cork
European Road map B6 and a small range of hot meals Tel 024 92424
Scilly, Kinsale, Co Cork alfresco in the covered area at Seafood dominates, but there
Tel 021 477 2260 the back, or purchase goods are other options, too – local
Seafood dominates, but there from the deli shop for a picnic. cheeses, heavenly desserts and
are many other carnivore- excellent home-made breads.
friendly options at this eatery MONKSTOWN: The Bosun €€€
and nice views of the harbour. Traditional Irish Road map C6
The food is consistently good, The Pier, Monkstown, Co Cork
and there are often queues; a Tel 021 484 2172 The Lower Shannon
reservation is essential. A busy place with a large and
simple seafood-dominated menu ADARE: The Wild Geese €€
Modern Irish Road map B5
Rose Cottage, Adare, Co Limerick
Tel 061 396451 Closed Mon
A picture-postcard cottage with
several small, tastefully decorated
dining rooms. Luxurious fare
includes pan-seared scallops
with chorizo, roast breast of
duck, rack of lamb and a few
veggie choices.
BALLINDERRY:
Brocka-on-the-Water €€€
Modern Irish Road map C4
Kilgarvan Quay, Ballinderry,
Co Tipperary
Tel 067 220 38 Closed Sun; summer;
call for winter hours
Simply cooked seasonal food in a
family home with open fires and
a reception area for aperitifs. The
restaurant operates only if book-
The popular Spaniard Inn, Kinsale ings are made, so call in advance.
For key to prices see page 308
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 316 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 317
The enticing patio at Burren Perfumery Tea Rooms, Carron
€€
DOOLIN: Riverside Bistro
DK Choice CASHEL: Café Hans Road map C5 € Pub food Road map B4
Modern Irish
BALLINGARRY: Moor Lane, Cashel, Co Tipperary Roadford, Doolin, Co Clare
The Mustard Seed €€€ Tel 062 63660 Closed Sun & Mon; Tel 065 707 5604
Modern Irish Road map B5 2 wks end Jan Tasty, café-style fare served
Echo Lodge, Ballingarry, A busy café serving better-than- in a cheerful room with an
Co Limerick average snacks: salads, fishcakes, open fire; in summer, the action
Tel 069 68508 Closed Mon & Tue soups and sandwiches. Cash only. moves outdoors, to the pretty
(winter); 3 days at Christmas garden terrace. This friendly
This long-established restaurant CASHEL: Chez Hans €€€ restaurant is sandwiched
is famous for its hospitality and Modern Irish Road map C5 between two pubs, and there
the quality of its food. Select from Moor Lane, Cashel, Co Tipperary is music – here or next door –
the menu while enjoying aperitifs Tel 062 611 77 Closed Sun & Mon; most nights in summer.
and amuse-bouches in the library, last 2 wks Sep, last 2 wks Jan
then move to the spacious din- Classic, award-winning food DOONBEG: Morrisseys Seafood
ing room and enjoy four courses such as local lamb and quail, Bar & Grill €€
(three if you choose the early- served in a beautifully converted Pub food Road map B4
bird menu) of imaginative food. old synod building. The wine list Doonbeg, Co Clare
includes offerings from both Tel 065 905 5304 Closed Mon
Europe and the New World. This pub with a contemporary
BALLYVAUGHAN: Reservations essential. interior and views over the
An Fear Gorta € river serves simple dishes –
Café food Road map B4 CLOGHEEN: The Old Convent Doonbeg crab claws, Cajun
Coast Road, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare Gourmet Hideaway €€€ chicken salad, steaks and burgers
Tel 085 726 1315 Closed Tue & Modern Irish Road map C5 – in generous portions. No
Wed in Jun; Tue in Jul; Jan–Mar Mount Anglesby, Clogheen, bookings are taken, which
A pretty tea room set in beautiful Co Tipperary means queues in summer.
gardens. Lovely cakes, savoury Tel 052 746 5565 Closed Mon–Thu;
tarts, sandwiches, fish pies, and Jan, 3 wks Dec ENNIS: Town Hall Bistro €€
home-made soups using produce An Irish artisan menu including Modern Irish Road map B4
from their own kitchen garden. local buffalo ricotta and rare O’Connell Street, Ennis, Co Clare
breed pork is offered nightly in Tel 065 682 8127 Closed 25 Dec
BALLYVAUGHAN: L’Arco €€ a beautiful room with stained- By day a pretty café serving
Italian Road map B4 glass windows. A vegetarian snacks, sandwiches and more
Main Street, Ballyvaughan, Co Clare option is available. Booking substantial meals, at night this
Tel 065 708 3900 Closed 25 Dec is essential. place becomes a candlelit bistro.
Authentic food is served at this Reservations recommended.
award-winning restaurant with a DOOLIN:
lively atmosphere in the heart of Cullinan’s Seafood €€ KILLALOE:
the Burren. Booking advised. Modern Irish Road map B4 Cherry Tree Restaurant €€€
Doolin, Co Clare Modern Irish Road map C4
CARRON: Tel 065 707 4183 Closed Sun & Wed; Lakeside, Ballina, Killaloe, Co Clare
Burren Perfumery Tea Rooms € Nov–Apr Tel 061 375688 Closed Mon; 2 wks
Café food Road map B4 The modern Irish menu at Jan–Feb, 24 & 25 Dec
Fahee North, Carron, Co Clare this place overlooking the river Contemporary Irish food is
Tel 065 708 9102 Closed Oct–Apr leans towards local seafood – served with great finesse in a
Wash down soups, quiches, wild monkfish, pan-seared room over looking the River
home-baked goods, sandwiches Castletownbere scallops. Shannon. The menu also features
and salads with teas made from Lovely home-made desserts. a few exotic options, such as
plants grown in the gardens. Reservations recommended. crab spring rolls with chilli jam.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 317 08/03/17 11:43 am
318 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
LAHINCH:
Barrtra Seafood Restaurant €€
Modern Irish Road map B4
Lahinch, Co Clare
Tel 065 708 1280 Closed Sun–Thu
(Jan & Feb); timings vary in summer
In this stone cottage with a large
conservatory dining room, the
menu is biased towards seafood,
with lobster a relatively
affordable signature dish.
LIMERICK: Sage Café €
Café food Road map B4
67–68 Catherine Street, Limerick
Tel 061 409458 Closed Mon, bank
hols; 1 wk at Christmas
A light, airy café serving snacks,
baked goods and sandwiches, Derg Inn, Terryglass
as well as more substantial
dishes. Try the courgette and DK Choice ACHILL ISLAND:
basil tagliatelle. Ferndale Restaurant &
NEW QUAY: Guest Accommodation €€
LIMERICK: Copper and Spice €€ Linnane’s Lobster Bar €€ International Road map A3
Asian Road map B4 Seafood Road map B4 Keel, Achill Island, Co Mayo
2 Cornmarket Row, Limerick The Pier, New Quay, Co Clare Tel 098 43908 Closed Mon–Wed;
Tel 061 313620 Closed 25 Dec Tel 065 707 8120 Closed Mon– Nov–Easter
A popular restaurant with Thu (winter); Good Fri, 25 Dec Find an exciting menu here, from
modern decor offering a medley Set on the rocky shoreline, with Marco Polo’s Adventure Platter
of Asian flavours, from Indian to stunning sea scapes behind and (venison, kangaroo, bison and
Japanese. Takeaway is an option. the dramatic Burren in front. On crocodile steaks) to the Medieval
the menu is simple, classic Irish Fish Platter (tiger prawns, scallops
LIMERICK: The Cornstore €€ seafood – poached salmon with and monkfish).
Steaks and seafood Road map B4 chive cream sauce, seafood
19 Thomas Street, Limerick platter – but also steak in pepper BALLINASLOE:
Tel 061 609000 Closed 25 Dec sauce. Open fire in winter and Kariba’s €
Come here for a decadent dining outdoor seating in summer. Home cooking Road map B3
experience, including a cocktail Society Street, Ballinasloe,
bar and a smoking area. Mains Co Galway
include a delicious 21-day aged NEWMARKET ON FERGUS: Tel 090 964 4830 Closed Sun
fillet steak. Earl of Thomond €€€ This place offers a menu of local
Modern Irish-French and international favourites and
LIMERICK: Hamptons Grill €€ Road map B4 home-made desserts.
Traditional Irish Road map B4 Dromoland Castle Hotel, Newmarket
Henry Street, Limerick on Fergus, Co Clare BALLYCASTLE:
Tel 061 609325 Tel 061 368144 Closed 25 Dec Mary’s Cottage Kitchen €
This sleek place with its mirrors, Opulent dining room with views Home cooking Road map B2
low lighting and banquette over the lake and woods. Choose Main Street, Ballycastle, Co Mayo
seating is famous for its grills, but between the five-course table Tel 096 43361
the menu will please all tastes. d’hote and the à la carte menu. Charming restaurant offering
traditional home-cooked food.
LISDOONVARNA: TERRYGLASS: Derg Inn €€ Sit outside on good days and
The Wild Honey Inn €€ Modern Irish Road map C4 by the roaring fire in winter.
Modern Irish Road map B4 Terryglass, Co Tipperary
Kincora Road, Lisdoonvarna, Co Clare Tel 067 22037 Closed Good Fri, BARNA:
Tel 065 707 4300 Closed Mon–Wed 25 Dec O’Gradys on the Pier €€
The food – steaks, wild game in Pretty lakeside inn serving good Seafood Road map B4
season, organic vegetables, local pub food and an excellent Sunday Seapoint, Barna, Co Galway
seafood – is always cooked to lunch. The daily specials depend Tel 091 592223
order here. Stone walls and open on what is in season. A two-storey restaurant a few
fires in winter create a cosy metres from the beach and with
atmosphere. No reservations, instant access to the freshest
so first come, first served. fish. Steak, lamb and rabbit is
The West of Ireland also available.
NENAGH: Pepper Mill €€
Modern Irish Road map C4 ACHILL ISLAND: The Beehive € CASTLEBAR: Café Rua €
27 Kenyon Street, Nenagh, Co Tipperary Home cooking Road map A3 Irish Road map B3
Tel 067 34598 Closed Mon; Keel, Achill Island, Co Mayo New Antrim Street, Castlebar,
Good Fri, 24 & 25 Dec Tel 098 43134 Closed Nov–Feb Co Mayo
Romantically decorated in warm Self-service daytime restaurant Tel 094 9023376
shades of brown and cream. The with high-quality, home-made, Breakfast and lunch specials
bistro-style menu includes locally traditional fare. Try their cakes, change daily. The home-baked
sourced beef and seafood. scones, tea bracks and fruit tarts. sweet treats are not to be missed.
For key to prices see page 308
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 318 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 319
CLEGGAN: Oliver’s Bar €€ GALWAY: Ard Bia at Nimmos €€ room. Open for dinner only;
Seafood Road map A3 Home cooking Road map B4 menu changes every night.
Cleggan, Co Galway Spanish Arch, Galway City
Tel 095 44640 Tel 091 561114 INISHMORE:
A very popular haunt for both Café by day and restaurant by Pier House Restaurant €€
locals and visitors, who come to night, Ard Bia serves great local Country kitchen Road map B4
sample the ultra-fresh seafood. food with influences from Europe Inishmore Island, Co Galway
and the Middle East. Tel 099 61417 Closed winter
CLIFDEN: The contemporary, modern
Mitchells Restaurant €€ GALWAY: McDonagh’s €€ Irish menu here features local
Seafood Road map A3 Seafood Road map B4 fresh seafood and lamb.
Market Street, Clifden, Co Galway 22 Quay Street, Galway City Ingredients are sourced from
Tel 095 21867 Closed Nov–Feb Tel 091 565001 Closed Sun local producers.
This family-run restaurant offers This renowned institution is said
good and keenly priced food. Try to have the widest selection KILCOLGAN:
the monkfish with colcannon of fish in the county and is Morans Oyster Cottage €€
and bacon potato cake. the place in Galway for high- Seafood Road map B4
quality fish and chips and The Weir, Kilcolgan,
CLIFDEN: fresh seafood. Co Galway
Ardagh Hotel & Restaurant €€€ Tel 091 796113
Irish Road map A3 GALWAY: In the same family for seven
Ballyconneely Road, Clifden, Co Galway The Seafood Bar @ Kirwans €€ generations, this restaurant in a
Tel 095 21384 Closed Nov–Easter Seafood Road map B4 thatched cottage has a seafood-
This award-winning restaurant, Kirwans Lane, Galway City heavy menu – crab, oysters,
with its spectacular views at Tel 091 568266 lobster, mussels and prawns.
sunset, specializes in lobster and The tasteful furnishings create
oysters as well as steaks. a warm, friendly ambience here, KINVARA:
while the menu offers bistro- Pier Head Restaurant €€
style dishes with meat and Irish Road map B4
DK Choice vegetarian options. Kinvara, Co Galway
CONG: Tel 091 638188
George V Dining Room €€€ GALWAY: Kai Cafe + Live music and great views of the
European Road map B3 Restaurant €€€ bay await at this restaurant. On the
Ashford Castle, Cong, Co Mayo Modern Irish Road map B4 menu are prime steaks, seafood
Tel 094 954 6003 20 Sea Road, Galway City and a small vegetarian choice.
Gents need a jacket and tie to Tel 091 526 003
dine under the Waterford crystal Fresh, organic dishes burst with LEENANE: Blackberry Café €€
chandeliers here as the resident the flavours of the west coast. Try Home cooking Road map B3
pianist plays. Highlights include their home-made fish fingers, Leenane, Co Galway
monkfish tail with fennel and crab salad, ox tongue and Tel 095 42240 Closed Oct–Easter
local goat’s cheese pannacotta. pumpkin jam, or Monkfish and A charming café with excellent
sea spaghetti. and hearty meals – oysters,
stews, fishcakes and chowders.
CONNEMARA: INIS MEAIN:
Owenmore Restaurant €€€ Inis Meain Restaurant €€€ LETTERFRACK:
Irish Road map B3 Irish Road map B4 Kylemore Abbey Restaurant €
Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, Recess, Inis Meain, Aran Islands, Co Galway Home cooking Road map A3
Co Galway Tel 086 826 6026 Closed Oct–Apr Kylemore, Co Galway
Tel 095 31006 The menu offers delicious Tel 095 52001
Enjoy elegant dining in a stunning dishes made with freshly caught Self-service restaurant in a stunning
location. The seasonal menus rely or locally grown ingredients. mountainside setting. Benedictine
on locally sourced meats, game, fish Enjoy panoramic sea views nuns run the gardens that yield
and oysters. Reservations essential. from the contemporary dining many vegetables on the menu.
George V Dining Room, Cong
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 319 08/03/17 11:43 am
320 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
LOUGHREA: Taste Matters €€ TUAM: BALLYSHANNON: Nirvana €€
European Road map A3 Finns Bar & Restaurant €€ European Road map C2
Westbridge, Loughrea, Co Galway European Road map B3 The Mall, Ballyshannon, Co Donegal
Tel 091 880010 Closed Mon Milltown, Tuam, Co Galway Tel 071 982 2369
This cosy, relaxed bistro offers Tel 093 51327 Closed Mon & Tue A contemporary restaurant and
innovative dishes that have Come to this relaxed restaurant wine bar. Food is prepared using
their roots in Ireland, France and for generous portions of Irish good-quality and often locally
Italy. Good value for money. and international fare at a sourced ingredients.
reasonable price.
MOYCULLEN: White Gables €€ CARRICK-ON-SHANNON:
Seafood Road map B4 WESTPORT: The Oarsman Restaurant €€
Moycullen, Co Galway McCormack’s € Irish Road map C3
Tel 091 555744 Closed Mon & Tue Home cooking Road map B3 Bridge Street, Carrick-on-Shannon,
A 1920s stone cottage houses an Bridge Street, Westport, Co Mayo Co Leitrim
intimate restaurant. Seafood is Tel 098 25619 Tel 071 962 1733 Closed Sun & Mon
the mainstay of the menu, with a This small, family-run restaurant Renowned in the local area for
range of classic dishes alongside has a selection of delicious the superb quality of its slow-
some imaginative creations. home-made dishes and cooked food. Relaxed ambience.
mouthwatering desserts.
PORTUMNA: The Modena €€ CASTLEBALDWIN:
European Road map C4 WESTPORT: McDermotts €€
Portumna, Co Galway An Port Mor €€ Irish Road map C3
Tel 0909 759568 European Road map B3 Castlebaldwin, Co Sligo
Family-run restaurant with an Westport, Co Mayo Tel 071 916 5132
eclectic menu featuring Irish, Tel 098 26730 Closed Sun & Mon Situated at the foot of the
Italian and Indian dishes – from The award-winning chef here Bricklieve mountains, this is an
traditional roasts to jalfrezi. uses the best local ingredients old-world pub decorated with
to create a classic, seafood-led natural stone walls and wooden
ROSCOMMON: menu. Excellent value for money. beams. Friendly staff serve locally
Gleesons Townhouse €€ sourced staples such as smoked
Home cooking Road map C3 salmon and roast lamb in very
Market Square, Roscommon, generous portions.
Co Roscommon Northwest Ireland
Tel 0906 626954 DONEGAL TOWN:
This restaurant, in a restored ARDARA: The Blueberry Tearoom €
19th-century house overlooking Nancy’s €€ Irish Road map C2
the town square, offers great Bar snacks Road map C1 Castle Street, The Diamond,
value, traditional fare prepared Ardara, Co Donegal Donegal Town, Co Donegal
with locally sourced ingredients. Tel 074 954 1187 Tel 074 972 2933
Nancy’s has a reputation for Cosy café serving a hearty menu
DK Choice great-quality fish and seafood, of breakfast and lunch options.
The incredible desserts, in
and is especially renowned for
ROUNDSTONE: its seafood chowder. Casual particular the delectable choc-
O’Dowd’s Restaurant €€ atmosphere; no need to book. olate steamed pudding, have
Home cooking Road map A3 made this spot a local favourite.
Roundstone, Co Galway ANNAGRY:
Tel 095 35809 Danny Minnies Restaurant €€€ DONEGAL TOWN:
Serving locals and visitors since Seafood Road map C1 Olde Castle Restaurant €€
1840, this traditional wood- Annagry, The Rosses, Co Donegal Irish Road map C1
panelled restaurant offers great Tel 074 954 8201 Closed Sun Tirconnell Street, Donegal Town,
fish – delivered daily from the Prints, tapestries and paintings Co Donegal
nearby harbour – and indulgent adorn the walls of this elegant Tel 074 972 1262
desserts. The seafood platter is restaurant. Irish meat and locally A modern Irish menu that relies
the star attraction. caught seafood feature on locally sourced ingredients.
prominently on the menu. Seafood is a speciality – Donegal
Bay mussels and oysters,
Bruckless Bay crabs.
DUNKINEELY:
Castle Murray House €€€
French Road map C2
St Johns Point, Dunkineely,
Co Donegal
Tel 074 973 7022
Classic French dishes made with
high-quality local produce. Start
with the cream of salsify soup,
and follow that with seafood, or
red meats, which feature
prominently in the winter. The
house special of St Johns Point
langoustine and Killybegs
O’Dowd’s Restaurant, Roundstone monkfish is a must.
For key to prices see page 308
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 320 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 321
GLENTIES: Highlands Hotel €€
European Road map C1
Main Street, Glenties, Co Donegal
Tel 074 955 1111
This acclaimed restaurant offers
great hospitality, friendly staff
and a varied menu, from locally
caught seafood to juicy steaks.
Famed for its huge portions.
GREENCASTLE:
Kealys Seafood Bar €€
Seafood Road map C1
The Harbour, Greencastle,
Co Donegal
Tel 074 938 1010 Closed Mon–Wed
Award-winning food made with
organic local produce. The kitchen
is barely 6 metres (20 ft) from the The Cook and Gardener at Rathmullen House
harbour, so the freshness of the
seafood is never in doubt. excellent use of the finest local guinea fowl with a cabbage and
seasonal ingredients, including bacon fondue is a highlight.
INISHOWEN: Harry’s Bar produce from their gardens and Advance booking recommended.
and Restaurant €€ fresh, Greencastle-landed fish.
Irish Road map C1 The Tap Room offers craft beers STRANDHILL: Shells Café and
Bridgend, Inishowen, Co Donegal and pizzas from a wood-fired oven. Little Shop €
Tel 074 936 8544 Irish Road map B2
This restaurant serves the finest SLIGO TOWN: Strandhill, Co Sligo
local food in Inishowen. The Coach Lane Restaurant €€ Tel 071 912 2938
steaks are highly recommended. European Road map C2 Overlooking the sea, this popular
1 Lord Edward Street, Sligo Town, restaurant serves home-made
KINCASSLAGH: Bonners Bar € Co Sligo breads and cakes and is a perfect
Pub food Road map C2 Tel 071 916 2417 spot for brunch.
Mallaghduff, Kincasslagh, This restaurant has a reputation
Co Donegal for innovative cuisine. Try the DK Choice
Tel 074 954 3368 seafood platter – salmon, shrimp,
A welcoming traditional pub full scallops, cod, halibut, and crab TUBBERCURRY:
of nooks and crannies. Their claws grilled with lemon, Killoran’s Restaurant €€
famous chowder is a must-try, Chardonnay and butter. Irish Road map B3
but there’s plenty more on offer. Teeling Street, Tubbercurry, Co Sligo
Regular live music. SLIGO TOWN: Tel 071 918 5679 Closed Sun
Davis’s Restaurant €€ Modern living has made little
LETTERKENNY: Castle Grove €€ International Road map C2 impact on this traditional eatery.
French Road map C1 Druncliff, Co Sligo Killoran’s offers a genuinely
Ballymaleel, Letterkenny, Tel 071 916 3117 warm welcome and service
Co Donegal Award-winning eatery featuring with a smile. The quality of the
Tel 074 915 1118 Closed Mon an extensive menu – from food is second to none.
A stylish restaurant, in keeping burgers to crab claws – that will
with the rest of this stunning suit all budgets and tastes. The
300-year-old house. The chef desserts are well-paired with
uses produce from the garden a selection of fine wines
and local ingredients to create The Midlands
beautiful dishes with Gallic flair. DK Choice ATHLONE: Kin Khao Thai €€
LETTERKENNY: SLIGO TOWN: Eala Bhán €€ Thai Road map C3
The Lemon Tree €€ Irish Road map C2 1 Abbey Lane, Athlone, Co Westmeath
French-Irish Road map C1 Rockwood Parade, Sligo, Co Sligo Tel 090 649 8805
Lower Main Street, Letterkenny, Tel 071 914 5823 A yellow- and red- building
Co Donegal Irish for “White Swan”, Eala houses one of Ireland’s best Thai
Tel 074 912 5788 Bhán is a fine brasserie-bistro restau rants. Delightful staff and a
Family-run and a firm favourite overlooking the Garavogue wide selection of regional
with both locals and visitors. river. It offers traditional dishes specialities. Booking advised.
The food combines the best with a modern twist, using
aspects of traditional Irish fare locally sourced ingredients. ATHLONE:
and classic French cuisine. The Left Bank Bistro €€
Bistro Road map C3
RATHMULLAN: SLIGO TOWN: Montmartre €€ Fry Place, Athlone, Co Westmeath
The Cook and Gardener €€€ French Road map C2 Tel 090 649 4446 Closed Sun & Mon
Modern Irish Road map C1 Market Yard, Sligo Town, Co Sligo Stylish restaurant in the old town
Rathmullan House, Co Donegal Tel 071 916 9901 Closed Mon & Sun serving delicious, creative food in
Tel 074 915 8188 Owned and staffed by French a relaxed atmosphere. Great fish
The main restaurant at the nationals, this popular restaurant and steaks. Lunchtime offerings
Rathmullan House hotel makes has an imaginative menu; the include focaccias and fajitas.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 321 08/03/17 11:43 am
322 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
ATHLONE: Thyme €€
Irish Road map C3
Custume Place, Athlone, Co Westmeath
Tel 090 647 8850
Delicious, well-priced food made
with local produce. Try the salt
baked celeriac or pan-roasted
fillet of Kilmore Quay hake.
Booking recommended.
ATHLONE: Wineport Lodge €€€
Bistro Road map C3
Glasson, Athlone, Co Westmeath
Tel 090 643 9010
An award-winning restaurant in a
pretty lakeside lodge. Try the
pickled mackerel and fennel salad,
followed by the steamed lemon Ghan House, Carlingford
pudding. Arrive by boat for
added romance. CARLINGFORD: but there are also great fillet
The Oystercatcher Bistro €€ steaks and roast duckling.
BATTERSTOWN: Caffrey’s €€ Irish Road map D3
Irish Road map D3 Market Square, Carlingford, Co Louth DUNDALK: Fahrenheit Rooftop
Batterstown, Dunboyne, Co Meath Tel 042 937 3989 Closed Mon & Restaurant €€
Tel 01 825 8479 Tue (winter) Seafood Road map D3
A traditional country-style pub Warm hospitality in pretty Crowne Plaza Dundalk, Inner Relief
with antique furnishings, open surroundings. Try the cataplana Road, Dundalk, Co Louth
fires and live music on Thursdays. (a spicy fish and chorizo stew), the Tel 042 939 4900
Try the garlic rope mussels or the black pudding and muesli mousse Feast on locally sourced food in
succulent steaks. or the Carlingford oysters. this restaurant with panoramic
views of the Cooley Mountains
BIRR: CARLINGFORD: and Peninsula and the Irish Sea.
The Thatch Bar & Restaurant €€ Ghan House €€€ Do not miss their signature
Irish Road map D2 Irish Road map D3 chocolate fondue.
Crinkill, Birr, Co Offaly Carlingford, Co Louth
Tel 057 912 0682 Tel 042 937 3682 GLASLOUGH:
This old-fashioned thatched, In a grand 18th-century country The Lodge at Castle Leslie €€€
whitewashed pub decked in house with views over the lake. Irish Road map D3
flowers has a warm ambience Though the emphasis is on sea- Castle Leslie Estate, Glaslough,
and great countryside cuisine – food – lobster, oysters, mussels – Co Monaghan
chowder, chicken, steaks. the menu also features Cooley Tel 047 88100 Closed call to check
lamb and beef. Within a fabulous castle,
DK Choice CARRICKMACROSS: diners can enjoy simple food
in the convivial bar, or dine in
BLACKLION: Nuremore style in the oak-beamed
MacNean House & Bistro €€€ Hotel & Country Club €€ restaurant. The terrine of rabbit
Irish Road map D2 Irish Road map D3 with wild mushrooms and the
Main Street, Blacklion, Co Cavan Carrickmacross, Co Monaghan pan-seared river trout are sure-
Tel 071 985 3022 Closed Mon & Tel 042 966 1438 fire winners.
Tue Housed in a scenic country hotel,
Weekends tend to be booked this restaurant attracts visitors KELLS: The Vanilla Pod €€
out months in advance at this from far and wide. Try the pigeon Bistro Road map D3
culinary gem. Delicacies include or the Annagassan white crab. Headfort Arms Hotel, Kells, Co Meath
seared quail and Thornhill duck Tel 046 924 0084
breast with wild mushroom CLOVERHILL: Stylish, contemporary bistro.
polenta. There is also a full The Olde Post Inn €€€ Try the creamy seafood chowder
vegetarian menu. Named after French-Irish Road map C3 or the rack of lamb. A tapas
the nearby lakes, MacNean Cloverhill, Co Cavan menu is served 5–7:30pm
is the place for an utterly Tel 047 55555 Closed Mon on weekdays; children eat free
romantic experience. Award-winning restaurant and 5:30–6:45pm.
guesthouse in a quaint former
post office. Try the loin of spring LONGFORD:
CARLINGFORD: lamb, then cleanse your palate Aubergine Gallery Café €
Kingfisher Bistro €€ with the champagne sorbet. Irish-Mediterranean
Bistro Road map D3 Road map C3
Darcy McGee Court, Dundalk Street, COLLON: 1st Floor, The White House, 17 Bally
Carlingford, Co Louth Forge Gallery Restaurant €€ mahon Street, Longford, Co Longford
Tel 042 937 3716 French-Irish Road map D3 Tel 043 334 8633 Closed 23 Dec–
Arguably the best restaurant in Collon, Co Louth 2 Jan
town. Fantastic seafood – salmon, Tel 041 982 6272 Closed Mon & Tue Lively restaurant offering steaks,
lobster, Carlingford mussels and Friendly environment, full of quesadillas and buttermilk-fried
oysters. Desserts include choco- character, art and imagination. chicken. Vegetarians are well looked
late and hazelnut brownies. The menu is strong on seafood, after, too. Good craft beers menu.
For key to prices see page 308
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 322 08/03/17 11:43 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 323
MONAGHAN: find an easy-going atmosphere, Price Guide
Andy’s Restaurant €€ friendly service and affordable For a three-course meal per person, with
Irish Road map D2 fare such as fajitas and pizzas. a half-bottle of house wine, including
12 Market Street, Monaghan, tax and service.
Co Monaghan £ under £25
Tel 047 82277 Closed Mon ££ £25 to 50
Award-winning gastropub in a Northern Ireland £££ over £50
lovely white-washed building.
Specialities include chicken ARMAGH: 4 Vicars ££ BELFAST: Barnett Restaurant ££
Monaghan, served with a tangy Irish Road map D2 Brasserie Road map D2
mushroom and onion sauce. 4 Vicar’s Hill, Armagh Malone House, Barnett Demesne,
Tel 028 3752 7772 Closed Mon & Belfast
MULLINGAR: Tue Tel 028 9068 1246
Millar & Cook € A very modern restaurant on one Enjoy excellent food made with
Spanish-Irish Road map C3 of the oldest streets in Armagh. fine local produce in an elegant
50 Pearse Street, Mullingar, The open crab sandwich with dining room in a late Georgian
Co Westmeath cucumber and orange is delicious. mansion. There are some good-
Tel 044 934 0884 value lunch menus.
A cafe, bakery and food hall rolled ARDGLASS: Aldo’s ££
into one. Living up to its “local Italian Road map E2 BELFAST: Belfast Castle
goodness” motto, this bright and 7 Castle Place, Ardglass, Cellar Restaurant ££
airy space serves good-value fresh Downpatrick, Co Down Brasserie Road map D2
lunches and great coffee, too. Tel 028 4484 1315 Closed Mon– Antrim Road, Belfast, Co Antrim
Wed (winter) Tel 028 9077 6925
MULLINGAR: This delightful, friendly restaurant Closed Sun & Mon
JP’s Steakhouse €€ has been rrun by the same family A strikingly romantic setting in
Italian-Steakhouse Road map C3 since 1973. Aldo's serves an ornate hilltop castle. Try the
28 Dominic Street, Mullingar, antipasti, pasta dishes, locally peppered fillet of venison or the
Co Westmeath sourced seafood and meats, and pan-fried salmon. The gardens
Tel 044 933 3620 Closed Mon a great vegetarian selection. offer some of Belfast’s best views.
The service is friendly and the
decor unpretentious here. On the BALLYCASTLE: BELFAST: Coppi ££
menu are hearty Italian favourites The Cellar Restaurant ££ Italian Road map D2
and delicious steaks served with Irish Road map D1 St Anne’s Square, Cathedral
a special Jack Daniel’s sauce. 11b The Diamond, Ballycastle, Quarter, Belfast
Co Antrim Tel 028 9031 1959
NAVAN: Earl’s Kitchen € Tel 028 2076 3037 Considered as one of the best
Irish Road map D3 A cosy haven with friendly staff Italian eateries in Northern Ireland,
Old Corn Market, Navan, Co Meath and hearty portions. Steaks are the menu includes freshly made
Tel 046 905 9678 Closed Sun cooked to perfection, or try the pasta, risotto, pizzette and cichetti.
The place for a pleasant lunch – Surf and Turf, featuring half a
salads, savouries and desserts. Rathlin lobster. Great value. BELFAST:
Closed in the evening. Crown Liquor Saloon ££
BELFAST: Archana ££ Irish Road map D2
NAVAN: Indian Road map D2 46 Great Victoria Street, Belfast,
Eden at Bellinter House €€€ 53 Dublin Road, Belfast, Co Antrim
Irish Road map D3 Co Antrim Tel 028 902 43187
Bellinter House, Navan, Co Meath Tel 028 9032 3713 A Belfast landmark, established
Tel 046 903 0900 Gracious service and a relaxed in 1849. Enjoy the traditional
Atmospheric restaurant in a ambience at this place famed atmosphere while tucking into
Palladian-style country hotel. Try for its Northern Indian vegetarian Irish stew and champ, a local
the rump of lamb with colcannon, and vegan options. The thali speciality of mashed potatoes
pan-seared sea-bream or roasted (platter) lunch is great value. with spring onions and butter.
squash parcels with marinated
feta. Good wine list.
PORTLAOISE: Seasons Bistro €€
Bistro Road map C4
24a Market Square, Portlaoise, Co Laois
Tel 057 868 0809
A popular and welcoming family
bistro serving modern European
dishes made with locally sourced
ingredients. Try the scallops and
prawns in white wine and cream.
TRIM: Franzinis €€
International Road map D3
French’s Lane, Trim, Co Meath
Tel 046 943 1002 Closed Mon
(winter)
In addition to the lovely views
of Trim Castle, diners here will Crown Liquor Saloon, Belfast
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 323 08/03/17 11:43 am
324 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
BELFAST: Deane’s ££ BELFAST: Metro Brasserie ££ BUSHMILLS:
French-Irish Road map D2 Brasserie Road map D2 The Bushmills Inn ££
36–40 Howard Street, Belfast, 13 Lower Crescent, Belfast, Co Antrim Irish Road map D1
Co Antrim Tel 028 9032 3349 9 Dunluce Road, Bushmills, Co Antrim
Tel 028 9033 1134 Closed Sun Try the duck breast with celeriac Tel 028 2073 3000
Eat in the seafood bar on the and thyme rosti or the pan-fried A popular hostelry near the
first floor, or in the French hake wrapped in Serrano ham in Giant’s Causeway. On the menu
brasserie at the entrance. The this eatery, with its sophisticated are whole some Irish specialities –
scallops and potted crab are yet relaxed ambience. such as onion and Guinness
great choices. soup and roast venison.
DK Choice
BELFAST: Ginger Bistro ££ CARRICKFERGUS:
Bistro Road map D2 BELFAST: Maud’s Ice Cream Parlour £
7–8 Hope Street, Belfast, Co Antrim Mourne Seafood Bar ££ Ice-cream parlour Road map E2
Tel 028 9024 4421 Closed Sun Irish Road map D2 52 Scotch Quarter, Carrickfergus
Chic but friendly local favourite. 34–36 Bank Street, Belfast, Tel 028 9336 7428
Signature dishes include crispy- Co Antrim Coffees and snacks are served
skin hake fillet on a creamy Tel 028 9024 8544 Closed 24, 25 here alongside delicious home-
celeriac and crayfish casserole. & 26 Dec made ice cream, including long-
A gem in the city centre, next time favourite, Pooh Bear.
BELFAST: Hakka Noodle ££ to the 16th-century tavern
Asian Road map D2 where Henry Joy McCracken DUNDRUM:
51 Adelaide Street, Belfast, and the United Irishmen The Buck’s Head ££
Co Antrim planned the 1798 Rising. Pass Irish Road map E2
Tel 028 9031 3270 through the old-style fish shop 77 Main Street, Dundrum, Co Down
A stylish, lively eatery serving into a cosy bar-restaurant. The Tel 028 4375 1868 Closed Mon
dumplings, noodles, stir-friess and food is terrific – fish from the (winter)
soups in a converted Victorian morning’s catch and shellfish The main draw here is the
warehouse. Great cocktails. from Mourne’s own beds in top-quality local seafood – for
Carlingford Lough. Reservations example, Dundrum Bay oysters
BELFAST: Holohan’s at are highly recommended. with a garlic and Cheddar crust.
the Barge ££
Irish Road map D2 DUNGANNON:
1 Lanyon Quay, Belfast, Co Antrim BELFAST: Viscount’s Restaurant ££
Tel 028 9023 5973 Closed Mon Neill’s Hill Brasserie ££ Irish Road map D2
Housed on an old Dutch barge Brasserie Road map D2 10 Northland Row, Dungannon,
on the Lagan river, this is one of 229 Upper Newtownards Road, Co Tyrone
Belfast’s more unusual restaurants. Belfast, Co Antrim Tel 028 8775 3800 Closed Mon
It offers great views and a modern Tel 028 9065 0079 A Victorian church refashioned as
take on nostalgic food, such as A local favourite with tasty dishes. a medieval-style banqueting hall.
Beetroot Boxty Dumplings. Try Guinness and honey-glazed There is a good carvery, or try the
chicken, or wood pigeon crostini. Portavogie pan-seared scallops.
BELFAST:
James Street South ££ BELFAST: Ox Belfast £££ ENNISKILLEN: The Sheelin
French Road map D2 Irish Road map D2 Kitchen £
21 James Street South, Belfast, 1 Oxford Sreet, Belfast, Co Antrim Irish Road map C2
Co Antrim Tel 028 903 14121 Closed Sun & Mon 178b Derrylin Road, Bellanaleck,
Tel 028 9043 4310 Closed Sun One of the most talked about Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh
Classic dining in a refurbished old joints in Belfast, Ox focuses on Tel 028 6634 8232 Closed evenings,
linen mill. Try the wild turbot sustainable, locally sourced Mon
with green tomato, Rathlin Island ingredients with a particular Great traditional home cooking –
kelp linguine and ginger. emphasis on vegetables. T-bone steak and Guinness beef
pie – in a cottage on the shores
of Lough Earne. There’s no license,
but you can bring your own bottle.
ENNISKILLEN: Café Merlot ££
Bistro Road map C2
Blakes of the Hollow, 6 Church Street,
Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh
Tel 028 6632 0918
Located in the basement of a
pub. From the creative menu, try
the dry-aged Irish beef, pork belly
or halibut. Booking is advised.
ENNISKILLEN: Dollakis ££
Greek Road map C2
2b Cross Street, Enniskillen,
Co Fermanagh
Tel 028 6634 2616 Closed Sun & Mon
Excellent restaurant with a warm
The Bushmill’s Inn, Bushmills welcome. Try the grilled chicken
Key to price guide see page 323
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 324 06/04/2017 17:03
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 325
souvlaki, the pork gyro or the
creamy vegetarian moussaka.
There is also a Cuban cigar menu.
ENNISKILLEN:
The Belleek Restaurant £££
Irish Road map C2
Manor House Country Hotel,
Killadeas, Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh
Tel 028 6862 2200
Lake views accompany delicious
traditional fare. The roast rack of
Fermanagh spring lamb with
lemon-glazed sweetbreads and
kale colcannon cake is a highlight.
HILLSBOROUGH:
Hillside Bar & Bistro ££
Bistro Road map D2 Brown’s Restaurant & Champagne Lounge, Londonderry
21 Main Street, Hillsborough,
Co Down LONDONDERRY: visitors. The idyllic setting
Tel 028 9268 9233 Brown’s Restaurant overlooking the sea affords some
This attractive country-style pub & Champagne Lounge ££ of the best views in the town.
and restaurant has a good European Road map C1
seasonal menu. Start with the 1 Bonds Hill, Co Londonderry OMAGH:
shin of beef pie and end with Tel 028 7136 5180 Closed lunch Sat, Grant’s Restaurant ££
delicious ice cream from nearby dinner Sun, Mon Irish Road map C2
Glastry Farm. An unremarkable façade hides a 29 George’s Street, Omagh,
gastronomic treasure. Gracious Co Tyrone
HOLYWOOD: The Bay Tree ££ service, a fine wine list and, on the Tel 028 8225 0900
Irish Road map E2 menu, great steaks and scallops. Named after US president
118 High Street, Holywood, Co Down Also delicious is the pan-seared Ulysses S. Grant, this place,
Tel 028 9042 1419 Closed dinner fillet of Greencastle monkfish. popular with locals, offers
(except Fri); Sun a hearty and varied menu –
A café/bakery renowned for its LONDONDERRY: Quaywest seafood, steaks and vegetarian
cinnamon scones. The bacon Wine Bar & Restaurant ££ options available.
and banana toasted sandwich Bistro Road map C1
with maple syrup is delicious for Boating Club Lane, Co Londonderry RICHHILL:
breakfast. Also on the menu are Tel 028 7137 0977 Stonebridge Brasserie ££
fresh fish and organic salads. Cool and smart urban dining. Try Irish Road map D2
the Cajun salmon with spicy rice 74 Legacorry Road, Richhill,
LIMAVADY: The Lime Tree ££ and lemon and lime salsa. Great Co Armagh
Irish Road map D1 wine list. Booking essential. Tel 028 3833 7232
60 Catherine Street, Limavady, Housed in an atmospheric
Co Londonderry PORTBALLINTRAE: The Porthole building, this family-run eatery
Tel 028 7776 4300 Closed Sun Bar & Restaurant ££ offers an excellent all-day
& Mon Irish Road map D1 menu of locally sourced
A small and simply decorated Bay View Hotel, 2 Bayhead Road, food. The Armagh pork belly
restaurant, but with an ambitious Portballintrae, Co Antrim is a speciality.
menu that includes a Galician Tel 028 2073 4100
fish stew. Stunning views, a relaxed vibe STRANGFORD: The Cuan ££
and tasty food prepared with Irish Road map E2
LONDONDERRY: local produce. Try the venison 4 The Square, Strangford,
Badger’s Bar £ sausage or the baked fishcake. Downpatrick
Irish Road map C1 Tel 028 4488 1222
16–18 Orchard Street, PORTRUSH: Warm, family-run hostelry on
Co Londonderry The Harbour Bistro ££ the shore of Strangford Lough.
Tel 028 7136 0763 Irish Road map D1 Seafood dominates the menu,
This wood-panelled Victorian The Harbour, Portrush, Co Antrim and the delicious chowder is
pub gets packed for lunch but Tel 028 7082 2430 particularly memorable.
is calmer in the evenings. Try The best restaurant in town, with
the baked smoked haddock. roaring fires and a cosy, friendly WARRENPOINT:
atmosphere. On the menu is Restaurant 23 ££
LONDONDERRY: delicious Irish food with a twist. Irish Road map D2
The Metro Bar £ The Balmoral Hotel, 13 Seaview,
Irish Road map C1 PORTSTEWART: Harry’s Shack £ Warrenpoint, Co Down
3–4 Bank Place, Londonderry Seafood Road map D1 Tel 028 4175 3222
Tel 028 7126 7401 116 Strand Road, Portstewart, Imaginative food created by
A local favourite beneath Co Londonderry top chef Raymond McArdle.
Derry’s walls. First-rate, hearty Tel 028 7083 01783 The seafood is superb, or try
lunches include Guinness beef The fresh fish and meat dishes the slow cooked dry-aged
stew, as well as lighter soups served at this restaurant beef from Dromara. Great
and sandwiches. are perennially popular with value lunch menu.
For more information on types of restaurants see pages 304–5
308-325_EW_Ireland.indd 325 08/03/17 11:43 am
326 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Pubs in Ireland
The archetypal Irish pub is celebrated for its convivial KILKENNY: Kyteler’s Inn
atmosphere, friendly locals, genial bar staff and the “craic” – 27 St Kieran’s St, Co Kilkenny.
Road map C4. Tel 056 772 1064.
the Irish expression for fun. Wit is washed down with whiskey or In good weather you can sit in the
Guinness, the national drinks. Irish pubs date back to medieval courtyard of this historic coaching
taverns, coaching inns and she beens, illegal drinking dens inn and cellar bar. Food is served all
which flourished under colo nial rule. In Victorian times, day until 9pm (last orders). Traditional
music is played from Friday to Sunday.
brewing and distilling were major industries. The sumptuous An effigy of a witch sits in the window
Edwardian or Victorian interiors of some city pubs are a frame, a reminder of the story of a
testament to these times. Snugs, partitioned-off booths, are former resident, Dame Alice Kyteler.
another typical feature of Irish pubs. Traditional pubs can be In 1324, Alice and her maid were
pronounced guilty of witchcraft after
boldly painted, thatched or “black-and-white” – beamed with four of Alice’s husbands had died in
a white façade and black trim. Some rural pubs double as mysterious circumstances; although
grocers’ shops. All pubs across Ireland are smoke-free, but pardoned, Alice was again accused
many have beer gardens where smoking is permitted. but escaped, leaving her maid
Petronella to burn at the stake. 07
Good pubs are not evenly distributed throughout the country:
in the Southeast, Kilkenny is paradise for pub-lovers, while Cork KILKENNY: Langton’s
and Kerry possess some of the most picturesque pubs. The 69 John St, Co Kilkenny.
Lower Shannon region is noted for its boisterous pubs, especially Road map C4. Tel 056 776 5133.
Langton’s is noted for its black-and-
in County Clare where spontaneous music sessions are common. white exterior, Edwardian ambience
The West has an abundance of typical Irish pubs, and the many and the stylish glass interior at the
tourists and students guarantee a profusion of good pubs in back. The front bar is cosy with a low
Galway. The listings below cover a selection of pubs throughout ceiling. Pub food is on offer, and
there’s music and dancing at least
Ireland; for Dublin pubs, see pages 114–15. one night a week during the summer;
Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday are
Southeast Ireland ENNISCORTHY: The Antique Tavern club nights. 07
14 Slaney St, Co Wexford.
BRITTAS BAY: Jack White’s Inn Road map D5. Tel 053 923 3428. KILKENNY: The Left Bank
Jack White’s Cross, Co Wicklow. This traditional, timbered, black-and- High St, Co Kilkenny.
Road map D4. Tel 0404 47106. white pub is charming. The dark, Road map C4. Tel 056 775 0016.
A typical Irish country pub perfectly intimate bar contains relics such as Encompassing a sports’ bar, an
situated off the N11, which runs from pikestaffs from Vinegar Hill, the outdoor bar and a cocktail bar, this
Dublin to the Southeast. Simple but decisive battle in the 1798 uprising venue in an impressive old city
tasty pub fare is served until 9pm. that was fought outside town. Pub centre bank is vast yet hospitable.
A real local legend, this pub is mired lunches and local chat are on offer. There are plenty of nooks for quiet
in controversy, due to a murder In good weather, you can sit on the chat, as well as every option to be in
com mitted here in 1996. 07 balcony and enjoy the pleasant views the thick of it with room to dance
of the River Slaney. 07 and a sociable smoking area. 7
CARLOW: Teach Dolmain
Tullow St, Co Carlow. ENNISCORTHY: Holohan KILKENNY: Marble City Bar
Road map D4. Tel 059 913 0911. Slaney Place, Co Wexford. 66 High St, Co Kilkenny.
This multi-award-winning pub, in Road map D5. Tel 053 923 5743. Road map C4. Tel 056 776 1143.
Carlow’s town centre, has a cur ious At the back of the Castle Museum, Marble City Bar, the most famous
collection of unique pottery and this is essentially an evening-only pub in town, is named after the local
ancient artifacts from the town’s and pub with few pretensions. Its limestone, which becomes black
Ireland’s history. This pub has an unusual location makes it worth a when polished. This four-storey
excellent menu and is ideally suited visit for a pint or two – it is built right building has an Art Deco façade. A
for large groups. 07 into the base of an old quarry and a busy café-bar with no reservations.
vertical cliff forms part of the back Bar food till 9pm. 07
DUNGARVAN: Merry’s Gastro Pub wall of the bar.
Lower Main St, Co Waterford. KILKENNY: Tynan’s Bridge House Bar
Road map D5. Tel 058 24488. KILKENNY: Hibernian 2 John’s Bridge, Co Kilkenny.
Established in 1868, this is a relaxed, 1 Ormonde St, Co Kilkenny. Road map C4. Tel 056 772 1291.
friendly and popular pub on Road map C4. Tel 056 777 1888. This is the most genuine old-world
Dungarvan’s main street. The Sited in an old bank and part of pub in town, with an intimate interior
kitchen offers excellent pub grub the Hibernian Hotel, this rather lit by charming lamps. Quaint relics of
(the steaks are excellent), using formal pub, popular with a mixed the former grocery store and
locally sourced organic ingredients age crowd, still has its original pharmacy are on display, from a set of
where possible. There’s a good decor. Modern Irish food is available old scales to the drawers labelled
selection of craft beers and wines, and live Irish music every Tuesday with names of nuts and spices. Live
and occasionally live music. 07 year-round. 07 music from Monday to Thursday.
326-331_EW_Ireland.indd 326 08/03/17 11:08 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 327
KILMORE QUAY: The Strand Inn children can amuse them selves in musicians come from the Gaeltacht
Dunmore East, Co Wexford. the playground. Drop by for the (see p233). The bar is true to its
Road map D5. Tel 051 383 174. setting and some lunch. 0 origins, with hand-painted signs
Once a renowned haunt for and traditional whiskey jars. Simple
smugglers, this hotel pub has cosy WEXFORD: Centenary Stores snacks and full lunches are served
snugs and open fires for winter, and Charlotte St, Co Wexford. from noon to 4pm. 0
a sunny seaside patio overlooking Road map D5. Tel 053 912 2303.
Hook Head Lighthouse for the Tucked away in a converted ware- CORK: Bodega
summer months. 07 house, this dimly lit pub is the most St Peter’s Market, Cornmarket St,
popular in Wexford. The friendly bar Co Cork.
LEIGHLINBRIDGE: The Lord staff and a mixed local and bohemian Road map C5. Tel 021 427 3756.
Bagenal Inn crowd chat in the wood-panelled bar. This bright, modern pub and
Co Carlow. Road map D5. Drinkers are entertained with sessions restaurant was once a warehouse.
Tel 059 972 1668. of traditional music every Sunday The high ceilings create a feeling of
This pub is a well-known stop-off morning, and it’s open until late on openness; the huge wall-spaces are
point for those travelling south Friday and Saturday nights. 07 taken up by art, much of it for sale.
from Dublin. Set in a small, peaceful Soup and sandwiches in the after-
village in County Carlow, the Lord WEXFORD: Macken’s noon give way to an interna tional
Bagenal overlooks a picturesque Bull Ring, Co Wexford. menu in the evening. On Saturdays,
marina on the River Barrow. It Road map D5. Tel 053 912 2949. the open-air market outside adds to
boasts award-winning food and has This pub has a prime location on the hustle and bustle. 07
a children’s crèche. Accommodation one of the corners of the historic bull
is available in the hotel here. 0 ring. It’s an excellent place to stop for CORK: Chateau Bar
a pint or two and watch the world 93 St Patrick’s St, Co Cork.
NEW ROSS: Corcoran’s Pub go by. If you’re lucky, there might Road map C5. Tel 021 427 0370.
Irishtown, Co Wexford. even be some live music. This bar in the heart of the city
Road map D5. Tel 051 425920. occupies a striking building that was
Head here if you crave fresh, once on the quayside. Founded in
home-made food. Having had five Cork and Kerry 1793, this elegant pub has a stylish
generations of continuous owner- Victorian interior and offers good-
ship, Corcoran’s is one of the oldest BALTIMORE: Bushes quality bar fare. 07
pubs in town and has a friendly Co Cork.
atmosphere. Card games are played Road map B6. Tel 028 20125. CORK: Clancy’s
every Monday with music sessions Famous in County Cork, this pub 15–16 Princes St, Co Cork.
on weekends, including Irish music, serves the best ales and pints in Road map C5. Tel 021 427 6097.
singing and dancing. 07 the village and is well used to One of Cork’s oldest pubs, Clancy’s
visitors dropping by. Sit outside has been open since 1824. It has
WATERFORD: Geoff’s Cafe Bar in the summer and gaze out onto one of the longest continuous
8–9 John Street, Co Waterford. the islands or watch the beautiful bars in Ireland and has live music
Road map D5. Tel 051 874787. sunset. 07 performances from May to
A funky green “hedge” on the exterior September. Food is available in the
of this Waterford institution conceals CAHIRCIVEEN: The Point Bar Lunchtime Carvery or Steak
a satisfyingly traditional pub interior. Renard Pt, Valentia Harbour, Co Kerry. Restaurant where the emph asis is
There is a buzzing atmsophere in the Road map A5. Tel 066 947 2165. on quality Irish cuisine. 07
evenings, when it becomes very Best to save this one for the summer
lively. With an eclectic selection of months. With its variety of ultra-fresh CORK: Henchy’s
bands at the weekends, it can get seafood dishes and stunning view of 40 St Luke’s, Co Cork. Road map C5.
very busy. Excellent food is served as Valentia Island, the Point Bar is Tel 021 450 7833.
well as great coffee, day and night. 0 considered by many to be one of This traditional pub dates from
Kerry’s greatest. 07 1884 and has retained much of
WATERFORD: Henry Downes its Victorian ambience, enhanced
8–10 Thomas St, Co Waterford. CASTLETOWNSHEND: Mary Ann’s by the mahogany bar and stained
Road map D5. Tel 051 874118. Co Cork. glass. It has long been associated
Dating from 1759, this unusual pub Road map B6. Tel 028 36146. with artists and is where young
located in County Waterford bottles Since opening in 1846, Mary Ann’s hopefuls come to show their
its own whiskey. It is dark and has maintained excellent service work to a largely sympathetic
cavernous with a chequered history. and a great reputation for quality audience. 7
This makes it a fine stop for a good home-made food. Full of
pint and a chat with the locals. inter esting antiques, this is one of CORK: The Long Valley
the best examples of a traditional 10 Winthrop St, Co Cork.
WATERFORD: Jack Meade’s Pub pub in Ireland. 07 Road map C5. Tel 021 427 2144.
Dunmore Rd, Co Waterford. Located just off Patrick Street, this
Road map D5. Tel 051 850950. CLONAKILTY: De Barra’s pub has a sense of the unexpected.
Situated under an old stone bridge 55 Pearse St, Co Cork. It attracts all sorts of characters from
7 km (4 miles) south of town, Jack Road map B6. Tel 023 883 3381. chancers to professionals. It is well
Meade’s provides a quiet and This is one of the best-known pubs known for its smooth pints of
quaint atmosphere. In summer, in West Cork, with a traditional folk Murphy’s, which any self-respecting
musicians play outdoors and club open most nights; many local will choose over Guinness. 0
326-331_EW_Ireland.indd 327 08/03/17 11:08 am
328 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
CORK: Sin É KILLARNEY: The Laurels The Lower Shannon
8 Coburg St, Co Cork. Main St, Co Kerry.
Road map C5. Tel 021 450 2266. Road map B5. Tel 064 643 1149. ANNACOTTY: Finnegan’s
Dating to 1889, Sin É (meaning This claims to be Killarney’s liveliest Co Limerick.
“That’s It”, is one of Cork’s cosiest and pub and is popular with young locals Road map B5. Tel 061 337338.
most popular pubs, famous for its and tourists. It has been run by the Originally a 17th-century coach
tra (ditional music sessions and the O’Leary family for almost a century stop, history and folklore
eclectic collection of bric-a-brac and provides excellent bar snacks permeate this renowned
adorning the walls. 0 and meals (steak, mussels, oysters, establish ment in County Limerick.
fish) in a separate restau rant area. Finnegan’s specializes in steaks
DINGLE: Ashes 07 and freshly caught seafood.
Main St, Co Kerry. The atmosphere is cosy and
Road map A5. Tel 066 915 0989. KILLORGLIN: The Bianconi extremely friendly. 07
An old-world style-bar dating back Lower Bridge St, Ring of Kerry, Co Kerry.
to 1849. The charming traditional Road map A5. Tel 066 976 1146. BALLYVAUGHAN: O’Loclainn’s Irish
frontage sets the tone for the cosy If it is hospitality you are after, this Whiskey Bar
and inviting atmosphere found renowned bar is the place for you. Co Clare.
within. Pop in for a casual drink or This award-winning restaurant, Road map B4. Tel 065 707 7006.
light snack in the day or an informal hotel and modern bar offers Built in the 1840s, this tiny pub is as
and good-value seafood meal in excellent-quality local produce at traditional as it gets. It doesn’t open
the evening. 0 an affordable price. 0 until 7pm in the summer, as the
owner, Peter, is a farmer during the
DINGLE: Dick Mack’s KINSALE: Kieran’s Folk House Inn day. Behind the bar sits a collection
Greene St, Co Kerry. Guardwell, Co Cork. Road map B6. of over 300 whiskeys and there’s
Road map A5. Tel 066 915 1787. Tel 021 477 2382. often live music and storytelling.
This individualistic spot is part This convivial corner of old Kinsale
shoe shop, part pub, and retains the draws locals and visitors alike. The BUNRATTY: Durty Nelly’s
original shop and drinking counters. interior is snug and welcoming, with Co Clare.
The pub is a haunt of local artists, live music every night during the Road map B4. Tel 061 364861.
eccentrics and extroverts. In the season. The inn also houses a Set beside Bunratty Castle, this
evening, regulars often congregate pleasant guesthouse and a noted extremely commercialized pub
around the piano. restaurant – the Shrimps Seafood appeals to locals as well as tourists.
Bistro, open for lunch and dinner The 17th-century atmosphere is
DUNQUIN: Krugers all year. 07 sustained by the warren of rooms,
Annadale Rd, Ballyferriter, Co Kerry. inglenook fireplaces and historical
Road map A5. Tel 066 915 6127. KINSALE: The Lord Kingsale portraits. Traditional music is
Situated close to the quays for the Main St, Co Cork. Road map B6. performed most evenings, and
Blasket Islands, this well-known Tel 021 477 2371. wholesome food is available
family pub is also a guesthouse from This beamed, old-fashioned pub both from the bar and from the
April to August. The pub is attracts a quiet, genteel crowd. two restaurants. 0
decorated with family memorabilia It is several hundred years old
and stills from the famous films but the interior is, in part, a clever DOOLIN: Gus O’Connor’s
made in the area, such as Ryan’s fake. In summer, live music is Clare Coast, Doolin.
Daughter and Far and Away. performed every night. Bar food is Road map B4. Tel 065 707 4168.
served from noon to 3pm. 0 This famous pub is known to
GLENCAR: The Climber’s Inn lovers of traditional music the
Co Kerry. SCILLY: The Spaniard Inn world over. The pub has been
Road map B5. Tel 066 976 0101. Kinsale, Co Cork. in the O’Connor family for over
This family-run pub is a famous Road map B6. Tel 021 477 2436. 150 years and combines an
land-mark on the way to the Kerry high- Set on a hairpin bend in the village authentic grocery store with a
lands. It boasts an open fire and of Scilly, this popular fishermen’s pub lively pub. This is the place for
serves up great home-cooked has the air of a smugglers’ inn. There spontaneous music, simple bar
meals with interesting vegetarian is live traditional music in one of the food, young company and great
options. Chat with other hikers and bars most nights during the summer “craic”. 07
climbers after a day’s trekking. Live and it is particularly popular at
Irish music 0 weekends. The restaurant and bar DOOLIN: McDermott’s
offer simple, but excellent fare. 0 Roadfoard, Co Clare.
KILLARNEY: Buckley’s Bar Road map B4.
College St, Co Kerry. SHERKIN ISLAND: The Jolly Roger Tel 065 707 4328 or 707 4700.
Road map B5. Tel 064 663 1037. Co Cork. No Clare pub is complete
This oak-panelled bar is noted Road map B6. Tel 028 20379. without a traditional music
for its regular traditional music Island atmosphere pervades this session and McDermott’s does not
sessions and its filling meals. cosy pub, which serves outstand- disappoint. It has live music every
The pub was opened in 1926 ingly good-value lunches, with a night from St Patrick’s Day until
when Tom Buckley, a homesick focus on seafood. The chowder is late October. A warm welcome
emigrant, returned from New delicious. In summer you can sit and a cold pint are guaranteed
York. Bar food is served until outside and admire the view of by the staff. The original 1867 tiled
4pm. 0 7 Baltimore Harbour and the bay. 0 floor is still in place. 0
326-331_EW_Ireland.indd 328 08/03/17 11:08 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 329
ENNIS: The Cloister The West of Ireland inn is one of the city’s oldest pubs
Abbey St, Co Clare. and is still renowned for its live
Road map B4. Tel 065 686 8198. ARAN ISLANDS: Ti Joe Macs music (traditional sessions are on
This historic pub is situated by the Kilronan, Inishmore, Co Galway. Wednes-days and Sundays) and
famous Ennis Friary (see p193). The Road map B2. Tel 099 61248. friendliness. The pub includes an
pub’s cosy, atmospheric interior This pub stands straight in front off-licence.
is complemented by a patio in of visitors as they leave the boat.
summer, and by traditional music It serves soup and sandwiches. 0 GALWAY: Dew Drop Inn
on some nights. Mainguard St, Co Galway.
CLARINBRIDGE: Moran’s Oyster Road map B4. Tel 091 561070.
ENNIS: Queen’s Front Bar Cottage Locally known as Myles Lee, this
Abbey St, Co Clare. The Weir, Kilcolgan, Co Galway. is an intimate, vintage pub that
Road map B4. Tel 065 682 8963. Road map B4. Tel 091 796113. encapsulates Galway’s Bohemian
This historical pub lies beside the This bar, set in a thatched cottage, traditions. The authentic low-level
impressive ruins of Ennis Friary (see was a regular port of call for lighting makes this pub a comfy
p193). It serves superb, traditional crews from passing “hookers” place, especially on cold nights
Irish food. Good for families, the (traditional ships). Nowadays, you when the log fire is crackling. The
Queen’s welcomes all ages. 07 can sample all kinds of seafood Dew Drop serves one of the best
here, though Moran’s is best pints of Guinness in town.
KILLALOE: Goosers known as the most famous oyster
Ballina Rd, Co Clare. bar in Ireland – the owner holds GALWAY: The King’s Head
Road map C4. Tel 061 376791. the local speed record for shelling 15 High St, Co Galway.
This delightfully picturesque oysters. 0 7 Road map B4. Tel 091 566630.
waterfront pub on the Ballina side Founded in 1649, this historic pub is
of the river has a thatched roof, CLARINBRIDGE: Paddy Burke’s adorned with a bow-fronted façade.
traditional interior and a Oyster Inn The homely interior contains
welcoming atmosphere. Noted for Co Galway. Road map B4. 17th-century fireplaces. Simple
its cuisine, Goosers serves Tel 091 796226. lunch snacks are served in the main
reasonably priced seafood in the Founded in 1835, this authentic bar. In the back bar, various live
restaurant and satisfying “pub grub” thatched pub has leaded window- bands playing in the evenings
in the rustic bar. 07 panes and a charming beamed attract a youthful crowd. 7
interior. Apart from the renowned
KILRUSH: Crotty’s Pub Clarinbridge oysters and buffet GALWAY: McSwiggan’s
Market Square, Co Clare. lunches, gourmet menus are also 3 Eyre St, Wood Quay,
Road map B4. Tel 065 905 2470. available at lunch and dinner. Co Galway. Road map B4.
This popular and award-winning pub 0 7 Tel 091 568917.
was once run by one of the foremost In the centre of the city, this snug,
exponents of the concertina, Lizzie CLIFDEN: E J Kings relaxing café-bar has a great selction
Crotty (1885–1960). Today it hosts The Square, Co Galway. of freshly ground gourmet coffees
live traditional music three nights Road map A3. Tel 095 21330. and comfortable seats. 0 7
of the week in summer. Tasty bar This spacious, bustling pub is
food is available all day Monday situated on several floors, with GALWAY: The Quays
to Saturday. 07 the ground floor the most 11 Quay St, Co Galway.
appealing. Seafood platters or Road map B4. Tel 091 568347.
LIMERICK: The Locke varied pub fare can be enjoyed The Quays was originally a
3 George’s Quay, Co Limerick. by the peat fire. In summer, live small thatched cottage but the
Road map B4. Tel 061 413733. music is often on offer, especially building was knocked down to
Overlooking the Abbey river, this folk and ballads. The staff make way for this three-storyed bar.
is a typical black-and-white pub. are exceptionally friendly. 0 The top floor is a circular mezzanine
In summer, it is a favourite port of that overlooks the rest of the bar.
call for riverside strollers. In winter, GALWAY: Busker Brownes A good venue for music, the
blazing fires and snugs make it a Cross St Upper, Co Galway. traditional music nights are Friday
cosy spot. Traditional music is played Road map B4. Tel 091 563377. and Sunday evenings. Hearty
from Sunday to Thursday nights. This barn-like city pub occupies lunches are served daily. Outside
The restaurant is open all day. 07 several storeys, including the shell seating during the summer months.
of a 16th-century convent on the 07
LIMERICK: Nancy Blake’s top floor. The Slate House, the pub
19 Upper Denmark St, Co Limerick. next door, is under the same GALWAY: Ti Neachtain
Road map B4. Tel 061 416443. management, and both are popular 17 Cross St, Co Galway.
Limerick’s best-known bar, Nancy with local students. There are jazz Road map B4. Tel 091 568820.
Blake’s has much to offer in the sessions on Sundays. 07 Set in the “Latin Quarter”, this
way of good “craic” and traditional 18th-century town house boasts
music. If you prefer rhythm and GALWAY: Cookes Thatch Bar a distinctive oriel window. Inside, a
blues, try the adjoining Outback Bar. Cooke’s Corner, 2 Newcastle Rd, musty wood interior is home to old-
The cosy main bar serves soup and Co Galway. world snugs and friendly service.
sand wiches at lunchtime. Music is Road map B4. Tel 091 582959. Traditional music can often be
played on Monday, Wednesday, Situated on the outskirts of heard here, and upstairs is Ard Bia
and Saturday. Galway, this traditional thatched restaurant. 07
326-331_EW_Ireland.indd 329 08/03/17 11:08 am
330 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
KILLALA: Golden Acres Co Mayo. CROLLY: Leo’s Tavern SLIGO: Shoot the Crows
Road map B2. Tel 096 32183. Meenaleck, Co Donegal. Grattan St, Co Sligo.
This comfortable pub is located Road map C1. Tel 074 954 8143. Road map C2. Tel 071 916 2554.
near the major activity centres of the Owned by the father of modern This authentic, old-world pub attracts
area. Deep-sea fishing, golf and boat folk musicians Clannad and of all kinds of colourful characters and
trips are all within walking distance the singer Enya, this friendly pub has a great atmos phere, especially in
of this homely country bar. It attracts locals and tourists for its the evenings. Music is ambient jazz
features wholesome pub food. sing-songs round the accordion, ceili and traditional Irish.
07 and traditional music nights.
07 STRANDHILL: Strand House Bar
OUGHTERARD: The Boat Inn Strandhill, Co Sligo.
Main St, Connemara, Co Galway. CULDAFF: McGrory’s Road map C2. Tel 071 916 8140.
Road map B3. Tel 091 552196. Co Donegal. The turf fire here warms the surfers
This hotel, bar and restaurant is Road map C1. Tel 074 937 9696. from the nearby beach, while the
located next to Lough Corrib on the On the idyllic Inishowen Peninsula snugs make for perfect one-to-
edge of Connemara. The lively, (see pp230–31), this is a place of one conversations over a pint
bright boat-shaped bar serves local quality food and drink. McGrory’s or some food. 0
craft beers, whiskeys, coffee, home- restaurant caters for up to 60 diners
cooked bar food and snacks. Local in a comfortable yet stylish setting.
musicians perform at weekends and The Backroom Bar, also located in The Midlands
on weekdays during the summer. the pub, is a top music venue,
There is also a beer garden for featuring live music of all kinds. ABBEYLEIX: Morrissey’s
alfresco drinking and dining. 07 07 Main St, Co Laois.
Road map C4. Tel 057 873 1281.
WESTPORT: Matt Molloy’s DONEGAL: O’Donnell’s If driving through County Laois, it is
Bridge St, Co Mayo. The Diamond, Co Donegal. worth stopping at this genuinely
Road map B3. Tel 098 26655. Road map C2. Tel 074 972 1049. traditional pub. The 18th-century inn
Founded by the eponymous flautist This middle-of-the-road venue was remodelled in the Victorian era
from the traditional Irish folk band has a small bar. A larger lounge and has stayed the same ever since.
The Chieftains, this deceptively in the back is used for live The grocery section survives while
spacious pub is designed along performances and karaoke nights. the plain and unpretentious bar
equally traditional lines. There is Local musicians entertain here on serves simple bar snacks. 0
live music in the back room every any given night. 7
evening, when the pub is packed. If CARLINGFORD: PJ O’Hare’s Anchor Bar
Molloy himself isn’t touring with the DROMAHAIR: Stanford Village Inn Tholsel St, Co Louth.
band, he often joins in the session. Main St, Co Leitrim. Road map D3. Tel 042 937 3106.
Road map C2. Tel 071 916 4140. Known locally as PJ’s, this atmos pheric
WESTPORT: The Porterhouse Set in a picturesque village, this pub and grocery store is popular
Bridge Street, Co Mayo. traditional pub has been in the with sailors and locals alike. A friendly
Road map B3. Tel 098 28014. same family for generations. The and often eccentric welcome is
Just next door to Matt Molloy’s tiny, quaint Biddy’s Bar remains matched by bar food such as oysters
(above), The Porterhouse is a rustic unchanged, adorned with family and sandwiches. Music is played in
old-fashioned pub with wooden portraits and old grocery jars. the summer. 07
floors and low ceilings, with a heated The main bar has mellow
beer garden to the rear. There is brick work and flagstones from CRINKILL: The Thatch
great traditional live music every a ruined castle. Delicious food Birr, Co Offaly.
night, with weekend afternoon is on offer all day in the summer Road map C4. Tel 05791 20682.
sessions too during the summer. and there are often impromptu Mooted as the traditional pub,
evening music sessions. 0 the Thatch is one of the oldest pubs
in South Offaly and, as its name
Northwest Ireland SLIGO: Hargadons suggests, has always been thatched.
5 O’Connell St, Co Sligo. It has won All Ireland Pub of the Year
BURTONPORT: The Lobster Pot Road map C2. Tel 071 915 3714 five times and certainly lives up to its
Co Donegal. This is an old world pub that sports reputation. Children are welcome. 0
Road map C1. Tel 074 954 2012. an authentic interior to match.
This cosy, friendly pub lies near the Tasty bar food is available along DUNDALK: The Jockeys
pier. The old timber surrounds of with a warm atmosphere. Take 47 Anne St, Co Louth.
the interior are used as a backdrop advantage of the popular summer Road map D3. Tel 042 933 4621.
to an incre d ible selection of Gaelic beer garden on balmy nights. 0 This friendly pub offers home-
sporting mem or abilia. The seafood cooked lunches daily at very
is renown ed as among the best in SLIGO: Osta reasonable prices. The walls are
the country, but other good dishes Stephen St, Sligo. covered in Gaelic Athletic
are served as well, including steak. Road map C2. Tel 071 914 4639. Association mementos (see p33),
All food is cooked to order. The This airy wine bar is located on the portraying its proud Gaelic sports’
house speciality is The Titanic – a bank of the Garavogue river. The tradition. This pub has been in
platter of lobster and other locally wines have been hand-picked by existence, in one guise or another,
caught seafood and fish, served those in the know. It’s also a good since 1799. Live music on Friday
with Guinness on tap. 0 7 stop for a bite to eat. 0 and Saturday nights. 07
326-331_EW_Ireland.indd 330 08/03/17 11:08 am
WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK 331
KILBEGGAN: Kilbeggan Distillery Northern Ireland Thatch Inn is well known for great
Experience food, including a good family-
Mullingar, Co Westmeath. ARDGLASS: Curran’s Bar & oriented menu at lunchtime, friendly
Road map C3. Tel 057 933 2132. Seafood Steakhouse welcomes and live music. 07
As well as being the oldest licensed 83 Strangford Rd, Chapeltown,
pot still distillery in the world Co Down. Road map E2. BUSHMILLS: Bushmills Inn
(established in 1757), this historic Tel 028 4484 1332. 9 Dunluce Rd, Co Antrim.
complex has a whiskey bar – the This charming pub and restaurant is Road map D1. Tel 028 207 33000.
ideal place to sample a few brands in the Curran ancestral home, which Set in an old coaching inn, this cosy
before buying (see p253). There is an dates from 1791. Expect warm bar is lit by gaslights. It features live
adjoining restaurant. 07 service and the freshest catch. A Irish music on Saturday nights
good choice for families, with its play throughout the year and on
KILNALECK: The Copper Kettle area and beer garden. 07 Wednesday nights from May to
Co Cavan. September. There is also a restaurant
Road map C3. Tel 0494 336223. BANGOR: Jenny Watt’s on the premises. 07
This lively family-run pub has a 41 High St, Co Down.
wonderful atmosphere. It is well Road map E2. Tel 028 9127 0401. ENNISKILLEN: Blake’s of the Hollow
known for its wholesome, home- Likeable and very popular, this bar 6 Church St, Co Fermanagh.
cooked meals, served all day. There’s with Victoriana trimmings is found in Road map C2. Tel 028 663 25388.
entertainment every Saturday night the centre of town. The walls One of a number of popular
all year round. 07 are adorned with local photos and town-centre pubs, Blake’s is famous
memorabilia. There’s live jazz at for its traditional Irish heritage.
KINNITTY: The Dungeon Bar Sunday lunchtime, and more music Dating back to Victorian days, it
Birr, Co Offaly. on Tuesdays, Wednesdays and retains many of its original fittings.
Road map C4. Tel 05791 37318. Thursdays. Bar food is served, There is live traditional Irish music
Sited in the basement of medieval and there’s a beer garden. 0 every Friday. 07
Kinnitty Castle, less than a mile from
Kinnitty village, this candlelit bar, BELFAST: Crown Liquor Saloon HILLSBOROUGH: Plough Inn
which is open Friday, Saturday and 46 Great Victoria St, Co Antrim. The Square, Co Down.
Sunday from 12:30pm, is not quite as Road map D2. Tel 028 902 43187. Road map D2. Tel 028 9268 2985.
spooky as it sounds. Historic Irish This Victorian gin palace ranks as one This typical village pub, dating from
memorabilia cover the walls and the of the most gorgeous bars in Ireland the 1750s, has wooden ceiling beams
food and drinks are well presented. (see p281). Lunch includes several and a selection of crockery, china and
There’s traditional Irish music every local specialities, such as Irish stew other orna ments on the walls. There’s
Friday and Saturday night. 0 and champ, but the Strangford a bistro upstairs open during the day,
Lough oysters really do stand out. serving international dishes. The
LONGFORD: Edward J Valentine’s Robinson’s, the pub next door, is Hillside, just down the main street, is
Main St, Co Longford. particularly lively in the evening. 0 also worth a visit. 0 7
Road map C3. Tel 043 334 5509.
Relax in Edward Valentine’s BELFAST: Lavery’s KILLYLEA: Digby’s Bar & Restaurant
wonderful, warm, old-world 12–18 Bradbury Place, Co Antrim. 53 Main St, Co Armagh.
atmos phere. There is a lively Road map D2. Tel 028 9087 1106. Road map D2. Tel 028 3756 8330.
ambience at the weekends in what Yet another of Belfast’s fine old This friendly, traditional village inn,
is otherwise a home away from gin palaces. Bar food served at lunch decorated with old photographs of
home. 7 and discos in the evenings. It is local places and people, is family-run.
popular with students from Queen’s It boasts an extensive menu, ranging
PORTLAOISE: O’Donoghues University. 07 from bar snacks to main dishes,
Market Sq, Co Laois. paried with good wines, and is a
Road map C4. Tel 057 862 1199. BELFAST: White’s Tavern relaxed, enjoyable venue for families.
Leave the modern world behind and Winecellar Entry, Co Antrim. 07
enjoy the traditional atmos phere of Road map D2. Tel 028 9024 3080.
this award-winning, old-style pub. Just one of several daylight-free LONDONDERRY: The Park Bar
This is the perfect spot for a quiet pubs tucked away in the Entries (see 35 Francis St, Co Londonderry.
pint or a snack. The Seasons p281) sector of Belfast city that are Road map C1. Tel 028 7126 4674.
Restaurant is located overhead. 7 best at lunchtime when decent, A family-run bar close to the city
reasonably priced pub food is centre and adjacent to St Eugene’s
PORTLAOISE: Treacy’s Bar served. White’s lays claim to be the Cathedral. The European lagers and
and Restaurant oldest tavern (1630) in the city. Other Guinness are on tap.
The Heath, Co Laois. pubs in this series of alleys that are
Road map C4. Tel 057 864 6538. worth a look include the Morning OMAGH: The Mellon Country Hotel
This charming thatched cottage Star. 07 134 Beltany Rd, Co Tyrone.
pub and restaurant is 6 km (3 miles) Road map C2. Tel 028 816 61891.
outside of the town, but is well BROUGHSHANE: The Thatch Inn Just 1 mile from the Ulster American
worth the journey. It is the oldest 57 Main St, Co Antrim. Folk Park, this country inn is a popular
family-run pub in these parts, and Road map D2. Tel 028 258 61366. stopping-off point. Set in the foothills
there is a good range of pub grub This old thatched pub in the ancient of the Sperrin mountains, the inn
(roasts, fish, salads) as well as prime village of Broughshane exudes overlooks the Strule River. A comfort-
steak at reasonable prices. 0 charm, character and warmth. The able place with friendly service. 0
326-331_EW_Ireland.indd 331 08/03/17 11:08 am
332 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
SHOPPING IN IRELAND
Ireland offers a wide range of handmade Celtic brooches, bone china, knitwear and
goods, usually regionally based and highly designer fashion, carved bogwood and books
individual. Its most renowned products of Irish poetry. Kitsch souvenirs also abound,
include chunky Aran sweaters, Waterford from leprechauns and shamrock emblems
crystal, Irish linen, hand-loomed Donegal to Guinness tankards and garish religious
tweed and tasty farmhouse cheeses. The memorabilia. In the directory on page 335,
thriving crafts industry is based on traditional a map reference is given for each address.
products with an innovative twist. Typical of Dublin shopping is covered in detail on
contemporary Irish crafts are good design, pages 108–11. Road map references are to
quality craftsmanship and a range spanning the towns and cities on the inside back cover.
Books
Reading is a national passion in
Ireland, so bookshops are
generally very good. In bigger
shops expect solid sections on
Irish archaeology and archite c-
ture, folklore, history, politics
and cuisine. Eason and Son is
one of the country’s most
widespread bookstore chains
with a large collection of Irish
literature and news papers. Seek
out the smaller, “Irish Interest”
shops too. In Galway, Kennys,
Fruit and vegetable market in Moore Street, Dublin hidden away in an in dustrial
area, is packed with both new
Where to Shop at Easter and Christmas and on and second-hand books.
The choice of places to shop St Patrick’s Day but are open
in Ireland ranges from tiny on most other public holidays.
workshops to large factory In Killarney, Ireland’s tourist Music
outlets, and from elegant capital, most shops are open Traditional musical instruments
boutiques to high-street chain until 10pm in summer. (see pp28–9) are made in many
stores. Bargains can often be regions, especially County Clare,
had at bric-a-brac shops and How to Pay also known as the “singing
local markets, although the county”. Hand made harps are a
banter is sometimes the best Major credit and debit cards speciality in Mayo and Dublin.
thing on offer. This guide are generally accepted in Instruments such as handcrafted
includes market days and local department stores and larger bodhráns, uilleann pipes, tin
fairs within the information retail outlets, but smaller whistles and fiddles are on sale
given for every town featured in shops prefer cash, especially in throughout Ireland. There are
the Region by Region sections. the more rural areas.
Sometimes the best produce or
products are to be found off the
beaten track; locals are always Sales Tax and Refunds
happy to let you know where. Most purchases are subject to
VAT (sales tax) at 23 per cent,
included in the sales price.
When to Shop
However, visitors from outside
Most shops are open from the European Union (EU) can
Monday to Saturday, 10am reclaim VAT prior to departure.
to 5:30 or 6pm. In shopping When shipping goods over seas,
centres and large towns, shops refunds can be claimed at the
tend to have at least one late- point of purchase. If taking your
night opening, usually on goods with you, look for the
Thursday or Friday (Thursday CashBack logo in shops, fill in
in Dublin). In tourist areas, craft the special vouch er, then visit
shops are generally open on CashBack offices at Dublin or A traditional fiddle maker in his workshop
Sundays too. Shops are closed Shannon Airport. in Dingle
332-333_EW_Ireland.indd 332 08/03/17 11:08 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
SHOPPING IN IRELAND 333
Crystal and Glassware
In the wake of Waterford Crystal
(see p151), the brand leader,
come countless fol lowers. The
price depends on reputation,
the quantity of lead used in
the glass and the labour-
intensiveness of the design.
Tipperary Crystal offers a range
of lines, and Galway Irish
Crystal is another elegant brand.
In Kilkenny, the famous
Jerpoint Abbey inspires local
Colourful bric-a-brac shop in Kilkenny designs by Jerpoint Glass.
Decorated with simple yet
several specialist record shops production process. Craft shops, stylish motifs, the small vases,
that sell traditional Irish such as the Kilkenny Design candlesticks, jugs and bowls
recordings. Golden Discs is a Centre and Bricín, sell good make pleasing gifts. Most stores
chain of music stores, and exam ples of different crafts. will pack and send glassware
stocks a good selection of In Cork and Kerry there is overseas for you.
traditional Irish music. an abundance of workshops, Crystal from around Ireland
mainly in Kinsale and Dingle. can be found in most craft and
The Guide to Craft Outlets design shops, but if you want to
Food and Drink
is available at local tourist see how glass is made it’s
Markets have offices. best to visit a factory.
become a popu- Distinctive
lar way to shop prod ucts from
for food in Irish this area are Ceramics and China
cities. Most of traditional tiles Although more renowned for
what’s on offer is based on designs crystal, Ireland also has many
produced locally found in Kilkenny reputable producers of ceram ics
under organic Cathedral and nearby and china. Established in 19th-
conditions. Smoked Kylemore Abbey medieval abbeys. century Ulster, Belleek Pottery
salmon, home-cured teapot Further west, green (see p273) produces creamy china
bacon, farmhouse Connemara marble is with a lustrous sheen and subtle
cheeses, soda bread, preserves made into “worry stones”, small decorative motifs, including
and handmade chocolates charms traditionally exchanged shamrocks and flowers. In
make perfect last-minute gifts. between families as marks of Galway, Royal Tara China is
Guinness travels less well and long-lasting friendship. Also Ireland’s leading fine bone
is best drunk in Ireland. Irish in Connemara, Roundstone china manufacturer, with
whiskey is hard to beat as a gift Music makes bodhrans in front Celtic-influenced designs,
or souvenir. Apart from the of interested tourists. while Kylemore Abbey (see p212)
cheaper Power’s and Paddy Other crafts include metal- specializes in exquisite hand-
brands, the big names are work, leatherwork and carpentry. painted pottery. Louis Mulcahy’s
Bushmills (see p270) and Local woods are used for ash or Pottery, in Bally ferriter, is noted
Jameson (see p183) . Rich Irish beech furni ture, blackthorn for fine decorative glazes,
liqueurs include Irish Mist and walking sticks and sculptures while in Bennettsbridge,
Baileys Irish Cream. made of 1,000-year-old Nicholas Mosse Pottery
bogwood – petrified wood produces hand-painted designs.
salvaged from Ireland’s unique Enniscorthy in Wexford is
Crafts boglands during turf cutting. another centre for ceramics.
Crafts are a flourishing way of
life in rural Ireland, and the
distinctive products can be
purchased from either city
department stores or work-
shops and individual vendors.
The Crafts Council of Ireland
has branches in Dublin and
Kilkenny, and can recommend
good small-scale outlets in the
country. Tourist offices also
provide lists of local workshops,
where you can watch the Pottery display in Kilkenny Design Centre
332-333_EW_Ireland.indd 333 08/03/17 11:08 am
334 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Given the Irish experience of wet Icons, with a wide range of
weather, warm and waterproof sartorial memorabilia, including
clothes are generally of good a dress that was worn by Audrey
quality, from waxed jackets and Hepburn as Holly Golightly in
duffel coats to sheepskin jackets. the film, Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
Knitwear is on sale all over
Ireland. Avoca Handweavers
and Blarney Woollen Mills are Fashion
the best-known outlets. Good Irish design has seen enormous
buys include embroidered success across the world.
sweaters and waistcoats as well Conservatively cut tweed and
as hand-woven shawls, hats, linen suits con tinue to be
caps and scarves. models of classic good taste,
Donegal tweed is a byword though young designers are
for quality, and is noted for its increasingly experimental.
texture, tension and subtle Some designers, such as
colours (originally produced by Simone Rocha and Una Burke,
Old sign for the linen department at a dyes made from lichens and have eschewed traditional Irish
former Brown Thomas store minerals). Tweed caps, scarves, textiles and forged fresh styles
ties and suits are sold in outlets in new materials.
Linen such as Magee of Donegal. At Brown Thomas on Dublin’s
Damask linen was brought to Grafton Street and in many
Armagh by Huguenot refugees small boutiques, you will find
fleeing French per secution Jewellery clothes designed by the best
during the late 17th century. In its golden age, Celtic Irish designers, including
As a result, Belfast became the metalwork was the pride of J. W. Anderson, Heidi Higgins
world’s linen capital. Ulster is still Ireland (see pp36–9), and many and Mary Grant. The Kilkenny
the place for linen, with sheets contemporary craftspeople shops located around the
and double-damask table linen are still inspired by traditional country stock a range of ladies’
on sale in Belfast – at Smyth’s Celtic designs. Handcrafted or fashion by Irish designers.
Irish Linen, for example – factory-made silver, gold and About an hour’s drive from
and in other towns. Linen, ceramic jewel lery is produced Dublin, Kildare Outlet Village
embroidered by hand, is made in a variety of designs. The has over 80 designer homeware
in Donegal. Linen-making can Claddagh ring from Galway is and fashion stores, including the
be seen at Wellbrook Beetling the most famous Celtic design Irish designer Louise Kennedy,
Mill (see p272). – the lovers’ symbol of two Gucci and Armani.
hands cradling a crowned Ladies’ fashion and the
heart. Cahalan Jewellers in hot test trends can be found in
Knitwear and Tweed County Galway is one of the O’Donnell’s in Limerick, while in
Aran sweaters are sold all over most renowned and has a Northern ireland, there are
Ireland, particularly in County huge range of unique Irish and many out lets of Clockwork
Galway and on the Aran Islands antique jewellery. For heraldic Orange and Fosters.
themselves. One of Ireland’s jewellery, try James Murtagh For budget clothing, Dunnes
best buys, these oiled, off-white Jewellers in County Mayo. Stores and Penneys have bran-
sweaters used to be handed One of Ireland’s most famous ches throughout the Republic
down through generations of silver manufacturers, and Northern Ireland. Clothing
Aran fishermen. Legend has it Newbridge Silverware and shoe sizes are identical to
that each family used its own produces everything from British fittings. The main streets
motifs. If a fisherman died at sea cutlery to designer jewellery. of the big cities are lined with
and his body was unidentifiable, The Visitor Center sells all their British and European fashion
his family could recognize him designs and products, as well as outlets, including H&M, Zara,
by his sweater. housing a Museum of Style Warehouse and Topshop.
Selection of hand-knitted sweaters at a craft shop in Dingle
334-335_EW_Ireland.indd 334 08/03/17 11:44 am
SHOPPING IN IRELAND 335
DIRECTORY
Books Doolin Crafts Gallery Ceramics and Quills Woollen Market
Doolin, Co Clare. China High St, Killarney,
Eason and Son Road map B4. Co Kerry. Road map B5.
113 Patrick’s St, Cork, Tel 065 707 4309. Louis Mulcahy’s Tel 064 663 2277.
Co Cork. Road map C5. ∑ doolincrafts.com Pottery
Tel 021 427 0477. Clother, Ballyferriter, Studio Donegal
∑ easons.com Geoffrey Healy Dingle, Co Kerry. Road The Glebe Mill, Kilcar, Co
Pottery map A5. Tel 066 915 6229. Donegal. Road map B2.
Kenmare Bookshop Rocky Valley, Tel 074 973 8194.
Shelbourne St, Kenmare, Kilmacanaogue, Co ∑ louismulcahy.com ∑ studiodonegal.ie
Co Kerry. Road map B6. Wicklow. Road map D4. Michael Kennedy
Tel 064 664 1578. Tel 01 282 9270. Ceramics Jewellery
Kennys ∑ healy-pottery.com Bolands Lane, Gort, Cahalan Jewellers
Líosban Retail Park, Tuam Kilkenny Design Co Galway. Road map B4. Main St, Ballinasloe,
Rd, Galway, Co Galway. Centre Tel 091 632245. Co Galway. Road map B2.
Road map B4. Castle Yard, Kilkenny, Nicholas Mosse Tel 09096 42513.
Tel 091 709 350. Co Kilkenny. Road map C4. Pottery
∑ kennys.ie Tel 056 772 2118. Bennettsbridge, Hilser Bros
Grand Parade, Cork,
McLoughlin’s Books ∑ kilkennydesign.com Co Kilkenny. Road map Co Cork. Road map C5.
Shop Street, Westport, Roundstone Music D5. Tel 056 772 7505. Tel 021 427 0382.
Co Mayo. Road map B3. Roundstone, Connemara. ∑ nicholasmosse.com ∑ hilserbros.com
Tel 098 27777. Road map B4. Tel 095 Royal Tara China James Murtagh
Music 35808. ∑ bodhran.com Tara Hall, Mervue, Galway, Jewellers
Co Galway. Road map B4.
West Cork Crafts 14 Bridge St, Westport,
The Dingle 61 Townsend St, Tel 091 705602. Co Mayo. Road map B3.
Record Shop Skibbereen, Co Cork. ∑ royal-tara.com Tel 098 25322.
Green St, Dingle, Co Kerry. Road map B6. Treasure Chest Newbridge Silverware
Road map A5. Tel 028 22555. 31–33 William St, Galway, Athgarvan Rd, Newbridge,
Tel 087 298 4550. ∑ westcorkcrafts.ie Co Galway. Road map B4. Co Kildare. Road map D4.
∑ dinglerecord Tel 091 567237. Tel 045 431301.
shop.com The Wicker Man ∑ treasurechest.ie ∑ newbridgesilver
44–46 High St, Belfast,
Golden Discs Co Antrim. Road map D2. ware.com
For branches see Tel 028 9024 3550. Linen O’Shea’s Jewellers
∑ goldendiscs.ie Forgotten Cotton 24 Main St, Killarney,
Crystal and
Plugd Records Glassware Savoy Centre, St Patrick’s Co Kerry. Road map B5.
Triskel Arts Centre, St, Cork, Co Cork. Road Tel 064 663 2720.
Tobin St, Cork, Co Cork. Connemara Marble map C5. Tel 021 427 6098. Fashion
Road map C5. Factory ∑ forgottencotton.ie
Tel 021 427 6300. Moycullen, Co Galway. Smyth’s Irish Linen Brown Thomas
Food and Drink Road map B4. 65 Royal Ave, Belfast, 88–95 Grafton St,
Tel 091 555102.
Dublin 2. Road map D3.
Co Antrim.
McCambridges Galway Irish Crystal Road map D2. Tel 01 605 6666.
38–39 Shop St, Galway, Merlin Park, Galway, Tel 028 9031 4272. ∑ brownthomas.com
Co Galway. Road map B4. Co Galway. Road map B4. Clockwork Orange
Tel 091 562259. Tel 091 757311. Knitwear and Victoria Square, Belfast,
Tweed
Spillane Seafoods ∑ galwaycrystal.ie Co Antrim. Road map D2.
Lackabane, Killarney, Jerpoint Glass Avoca Handweavers Tel 028 9032 0298.
Co Kerry. Road map B5. Stoneyford, Co Kilkenny. Kilmacanogue, Co Wicklow. Fosters
Tel 064 31320. Road map D5. Road map D4. ∑ fostersfashion.com
Tel 056 772 4350. Tel 01 274 6900.
Crafts ∑ jerpointglass.com ∑ avoca.com Kildare Outlet Village
Kildare Village, Nurney Rd,
Bricín Sligo Crystal Blarney Woollen Mills Co Kildare. Road map D4.
26 High St, Killarney, Hyde Bridge, Sligo, Blarney, Co Cork. Tel 045 520501.
Co Kerry. Road map B5. Co Sligo. Road map C2. Road map B5. ∑ kildarevillage.com
Tel 064 66 34902. Tel 071 914 3440. Tel 021 438 5280. Kilkenny
∑ blarney.com ∑ kilkennyshop.com
Crafts Council Tipperary Crystal
of Ireland Barrynoran, Carrick-on- Magee of Donegal O’Donnell’s
Castle Yard, Kilkenny, Suir, Co Tipperary. Road The Diamond, Donegal, 11 Catherine St, Limerick,
Co Kilkenny. Road map C4. map C5. Tel 051 640543. Co Donegal. Road map Co Limerick. Road map
Tel 056 776 1804. ∑ tipperarycrystal.ie C2. Tel 074 972 2660. B4. Tel 061 415932.
334-335_EW_Ireland.indd 335 08/03/17 11:44 am
336 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
What to Buy in Ireland
Hundreds of gift and craft shops scattered throughout
Ireland make it easy to find Irish specialities to suit all
budgets. The best buys include linen, tweeds and
crystal from factory shops which invariably offer an
extensive choice of good-quality products. Local crafts
make unique souvenirs, from handmade jewellery
and ceramics to traditional musical instru ments.
Religious artifacts are also widely available. Irish food
and drink are evocative reminders of your trip.
Traditional hand-held drum (bodhrán)
and beater
Connemara marble Traditional Claddagh
“worry stone” ring
Enamel brooch
Modern jewellery and metalwork draw on
a long and varied tradition. Craftspeople
continue to base their designs on sources
such as the Book of Kells (see p68) and Celtic
myths. Local plants and wildlife are also an
inspiration. County Galway produces
Claddagh rings – traditional betrothal rings –
in gold and silver as well as “worry stones”. Fuchsia earring Celtic-design Bronzed resin
from Dingle enamel brooch Celtic figurine
Donegal tweed jacket and waistcoat Tweed skirt and jacket
Clothing made in Ireland is usually
of excellent quality. Tweed-making
still flourishes in Donegal where
tweed can be bought ready-made
as clothing and hats or as lengths Tweed cap
of cloth. Knitwear is widely available
all over the country in large factory
outlets and local craft shops.
The many hand-knitted items
on sale, including Aran sweaters,
are not cheap but should give
years of wear. Tweed fisherman’s hat Aran sweater
336-337_EW_Ireland.indd 336 25/04/16 11:04 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.5)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
SHOPPING IN IRELAND 337
Irish linen is world-famous and the range unparalleled. There
is a huge choice of table and bed linen, including extravagant
bedspreads and crisp, formal tablecloths. On a smaller scale,
tiny, intricately embroidered hand kerchiefs make lovely gifts
as do linen table napkins. Tea towels printed with colourful
designs are widely available. You can also buy linen goods
trimmed with fine lace, which is still handmade in Ireland,
mainly in Limerick and Kenmare.
Set of linen placemats and napkins
Nicholas
Mosse plate
Nicholas
Belleek
teapot Mosse cup
Fine linen handkerchiefs
Irish ceramics come in traditional and
modern designs. You can buy anything
from a full dinner service by established
factories, such as Royal Tara China or the
Belleek Pottery, to a one-off contemporary
piece from a local potter’s studio.
Irish crystal, hand-blown and hand-cut, can
be ordered or bought in many shops in
Ireland. Visit the outlets of the principal
manu facturers, such as Waterford
Crystal and Jerpoint Glass, to see the
full range – from glasses and decanters
to elaborate chandeliers.
Book of Irish Proverbs
Books and stationery are often
beautifully illustrated. Museums and
bookshops stock a wide range.
Celtic-design cards Waterford crystal tumbler and decanter
Food and drink will keep the distinctive tastes of Ireland
fresh long after you arrive home. Whiskey connoisseurs
should visit the Old Bushmills Distillery (see p270) or the
Jameson Heritage Centre (see p183) to sample their choice
of whiskeys. Good regional food can be found at
local shops all over Ireland. Try the dried
seaweed, which is eaten raw
or added to cooked dishes.
Jameson Bushmills Fruit cake made Jar of Irish Packet of
whiskey whiskey with Guinness marmalade dried seaweed
336-337_EW_Ireland.indd 337 25/04/16 11:04 am
338 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
ENTERTAINMENT IN IRELAND
If there is one sphere in which Ireland overlooked is the free enter tainment
shines, it is entertainment. For details about (planned or spontaneous) provided by a
entertainment in Dublin, see pages 112–19. night in a pub. For more active forms of
Elsewhere in Ireland, nightclubs and enter tainment, covered on pages 342–7,
concerts by international entertain ers the list is even longer, from golf to pony
tend to be concen trated in large cities, but trekking and cycling to scuba diving. Those
many other events includ ing theatre, arts who prefer their sports sitting down can
festivals, traditional music and dance, cultural go along as spectators to Ireland’s famous
holidays and even medieval banquets take horse race meet ings, as well as Gaelic
place all over the country. Most towns and football, hurling, soccer and rugby matches.
cities also have one or two cinemas showing A happy mix of these activities can easily
the latest movies on release. Not to be be put together with almost any itinerary.
Theatre
From international tours to
amateur productions, there is
excellent theatre to be seen in
virtually every location in
Ireland. In Galway, the Druid
Theatre specializes in avant-
garde plays, new Irish plays
and Anglo-Irish classics, with
frequent lunchtime and late-
night performances, while
Gaelic drama, Irish music,
Ulster Symphony Orchestra at the Ulster Hall in Belfast singing and dancing have all
thrived at the Taibhdhearc
Information Sources concerts and other events Theatre since 1928. Waterford
The tourist board for the around Ireland can be made boasts its resident Red Kettle
Republic, Fáilte Ireland, and by telephone through Keith Theatre Company which
the Northern Ireland Tourist Prowse Travel (IRL) Ltd and performs at the Garter Lane
Board (see p351) both publish Ticketmaster in Dublin. Theatre, while the Theatre
a yearly Calendar of Events Royal brings amateur drama
that lists major fixtures and musicals to the city. In
around the country, and all Major Venues Limerick, the Lime Tree Theatre
the regional tourist offices In many Irish cities, the main on the grounds of Mary
have information about theatres host a huge variety Immaculate College hosts a
happenings in each locality. of events. In Cork, the Opera diverse programme of drama,
To supplement these listings, House presents predominantly comedy and dance.
check regional newspapers Irish plays during the summer, Keep an eye out for small
and enquire locally. with musical comedy, opera theatre groups performing
and ballet at other times of the
year. Also in Cork, the Everyman
Booking Tickets Palace Theatre stages plays by
Tickets can usually be bought local and visiting companies
at the door on the day or interspersed with concerts of
evening of most events. both classical and popular
Advance booking is a must, music. Sligo’s Hawks Well
however, for popular concerts Theatre, Limerick’s Lime Tree
and plays. Many cultural and Theatre and Carlow’s George
arts festivals require tickets Bernard Shaw Theatre are
only for the key performances, venues for drama and concerts.
but for internationally In Belfast, the Grand Opera
famous festivals, such as the House, Waterfront Hall and
Wexford Opera Festival, you Lyric Theatre present various
will need to book well in productions, including Irish
advance through the festival and international plays,
office for all performances. experimental drama, Home of the Druid Theatre Company in
Credit-card bookings for plays, panto mime and opera. Galway (see p214)
338-339_EW_Ireland.indd 338 08/03/17 4:00 pm
ENTER T AINMENT IN IRELAND 339
Nights of Irish music and song
are scheduled in many pubs,
such as The Laurels and the
Danny Mann in Killarney, the
Yeats Tavern in Drumcliff, near
Sligo, and An Brog in Cork. In
Derry, the Gweedore Bar, Castle
Bar and Dungloe Bar are among
the cluster of musical pubs
The Moscow Ballet at Belfast’s Grand Opera House (see p280) along Waterloo Street. Wherever
you are, a query to the locals
in local halls around the country. at weekends. For some of will send you off to the nearest
Many of them are superb and Ireland’s “big band” jazz music, musical pub. For more pub
they have spawned several of keep an eye out for Waterford’s listings, see pp 326–31.
Ireland’s leading actors. Brass and Co who play at dances In Tralee, Siamsa Tíre,
around the country. Jazz lovers the National Folk Theatre,
have a field day at the Cork Jazz stages marvellous folk drama
Classical Music, Opera Festival in late October, when incorporating traditional music,
and Dance international jazz greats play in singing and dance. The Corn-
Major venues for classical music the city’s theatres. Barn, in Bunratty Folk Park, is
include the Crawford Art the setting for The Traditional
Gallery, Opera House and Irish Night during the
Everyman Palace in Cork; the summer months.
Theatre Royal in Waterford Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Éireann,
and the Hawks Well Theatre in in Monkstown has branches
Sligo. Belfast’s Ulster Hall hosts around the country and
concerts from rock bands to the organizes traditional music and
Ulster Symphony Orchestra. dance nights all year. Traditional
Opera lovers from around Pub scene, with musicians playing at the Irish dancing can be stylish step
the world come to Ireland for Feakle Festival, County Clare dancing or joyous set dancing.
the Wexford Festival Opera Visitors are usually encouraged
in October and November, Traditional Music to join in the fun.
and Dance
where rare or forgotten operatic The Fleadh Cheoil (national
works are revived. Elsewhere, The country pub has helped traditional music festival) is a
opera is performed in Cork’s keep Irish music alive and weekend of music, dance,
Opera House and in Belfast’s provided the setting for the song and stage shows that spill
Grand Opera House. musical revival that began in over into colourful street
Ireland has no resident the 1960s. Today, sessions of entertainment. It takes place
ballet or avant-garde dance informal or impromptu music at the end of August in a
companies, but leading inter- are still commonplace. In pubs, different town each year and
national companies perform traditional music embraces attracts large crowds. Earlier in
occasionally at the major ballads and rebel songs, as well August, the Feakle Festival in
venues around the country. as the older sean-nós – County Clare is a more intimate
unaccompanied, understated celebration of tradi tional
stories, often sung in Irish. music, song and dance.
Rock, Jazz and Country
When international music stars
tour Ireland, concerts outside
Dublin are held at large out door
sites. RDS and 3Arena in Dublin,
Semple Stadium in County
Tipperary and Slane Castle
(see p249) in County Meath
are popular venues. Tickets
and informa tion are available
from Ticketmaster.
Musical pubs (see pp326–31)
are your best bet for good rock
and jazz performed by Irish
groups. Check local tourist
offices and newspapers for rock
and jazz nights, which usually
take place midweek, with
country and traditional music The Opera House adjoining the Crawford Art Gallery in Cork
338-339_EW_Ireland.indd 339 08/03/17 11:08 am
340 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Bunratty Castle (see pp196–7)
was the first and is the liveliest,
with year-round performances.
From April to October, there
is a medieval banquet at
Knappogue Castle (see p193),
and at Dunguaire Castle (see
p218) there is a quieter, more
intimate programme of music
and poetry. From March until
November, the highly enjoy able
Killarney Manor Banquet, held
at the stately manor on the
Loreto road just south of
Killarney, creates an early
Acrobats performing at the annual Galway Arts Festival 19th-century atmosphere.
Festivals
gardens. In mid-June, the
The Irish are experts at organ i- Great Music in Irish Houses Cultural Breaks
zing festivals, staging a week of festival opens the doors to A break in Ireland focused on any
street entertainment, theatre, many of Ireland’s historic homes one of the cultural aspects of Irish
music and dance to celebrate to which the public seldom has life is enriching as well as fun.
almost everything under the access, with classi cal music Choose from a variety of cultural
sun (see pp52–5). performed by top-rate topics and study courses: Irish
In mid-July the lively town of musicians. Venues include music and literature, great houses
Galway is host to the Galway Killruddery House, Co Wicklow and gardens, Irish language and
Arts Festival, one of the largest (see p137) and Christ Church folklore, crafts and cookery.
festivals in Ireland. Here you will Cathedral, Dublin (see pp84–5). One of the most fascinating
find Irish and international theatre possibilities is the exploration
and music, street entertainment of Ireland’s 5,000-year history
and events for children. Taking as revealed in the many relics
place over one week in late July strewn across the landscape.
and early August is the Boyle The Achill Archaeological Field
Arts Festival. The events here School in County Mayo, for
include art exhibitions, poetry example, runs a course that
and drama performances as includes the active excavation
well as classical, traditional, folk of ancient sites.
and jazz concerts. Creative To learn the secret of Irish
workshops are run for both Kilkenny Arts Festival street theatre cooking, there is no better place
adults and children. Traditional Banquets than the Ballymaloe School
Kilkenny Arts Festival in of Cookery in County Cork; it is
August, another major festival, with Entertainment run by Darina Allen, Ireland’s
features poetry, classical music Ireland’s banquets have gained most famous cook.
concerts, movies and a range of international fame and are great For literature enthusiasts, the
crafts. The Cork Film Festival fun. Each of the banquets Yeats International Summer
takes place either in October or features costumed waiters and School studies the works of
November when international performers, as well as traditional Yeats and his contemporaries,
feature, documentary and short food and drink of the chosen while Listowel Writers’ Week
films are screened at venues all period. Most famous are the brings together leading writers
over the city. The Belfast Festival medieval banquets – the one at for lectures and workshops.
at Queen’s is held for two weeks
in October to late November.
The lively and cosmopolitan
programme includes a mixture
of drama, ballet, comedy,
cabaret, music and film. These
take over the Queen’s University
campus plus theatres and other
venues throughout Belfast.
In May, June and July the
County Wicklow Gardens
Festival entices gardening
enthusiasts to wander around
the county’s most beautiful Folk dancers in traditional Irish costume
340-341_EW_Ireland.indd 340 08/03/17 11:08 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.5)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
ENTER T AINMENT IN IRELAND 341
DIRECTORY
Booking Tickets Taibhdhearc Theatre The Traditional Cookery
Middle St, Galway. Irish Night Ballymaloe School
Keith Prowse Travel Tel 091 563600. Bunratty Castle and Folk of Cookery
(IRL) Ltd ∑ antaibhdhearc.com Park, Bunratty, Co Clare. Shanagarry, Co Cork.
9 Marlborough Court, Tel 021 464 6785.
Marlborough St, Dublin 1. Theatre Royal Tel 061 360788. ∑ cookingisfun.ie
Tel 01 878 3500. The Mall, Waterford. ∑ shannon
∑ keithprowse.ie Tel 051 874402. heritage.com Great Houses
∑ theatreroyal.ie and Gardens
Ticketmaster Festivals Houses, Castles &
Ticketron, St Stephen’s Classical Music, Belfast Festival Gardens of Ireland
Green S/C, Dublin 2. Opera and Dance Tel 087 777 6428.
Tel 01 648 6060. at Queen’s ∑ hcgi.ie
∑ ticketmaster.ie Crawford Art Gallery Festival House, 25 College
Emmet Place, Cork. Gardens, Belfast. National Trust
Major Venues Tel 021 480 5042. Tel 028 9097 1197. Rowallane House,
∑ crawfordart gallery.ie ∑ belfastfestival.com Saintfield, Ballynahinch,
Belfast Waterfront Town Hall Theatre Co Down.
2 Lanyon Place, Belfast. Courthouse Square, Boyle Arts Festival Tel 028 9751 0721.
Tel 028 9033 4400. Galway. King House, Main St, ∑ nationaltrust.org.uk
∑ waterfront.co.uk Boyle, Co Roscommon. Irish Language
Tel 091 569755. Tel 071 966 3085.
Cork Opera House ∑ tht.ie ∑ boylearts.com Conversation Classes
Oidhreacht Chorca
Emmet Place, Cork. Ulster Hall Dhuibhne, Ballyferriter,
Tel 021 427 0022. Bedford St, Belfast. Cork Film Festival Co Kerry. Tel 066 915 6100.
∑ corkopera house.ie Emmet House,
Tel 028 9033 4455. Emmet Place, Cork. ∑ oidhreacht.ie
Everyman Palace ∑ ulsterhall.co.uk Tel 021 427 1711. Irish Music
Theatre Wexford ∑ corkfilmfest.org Willie Clancy
15 MacCurtain St, Cork. Festival Opera Summer School
Tel 021 450 1673. Theatre Royal, High St, County Wicklow Miltown Malbay, Co
∑ everymancork.com Wexford. Gardens Festival Clare. Tel 065 708 4281.
George Bernard Tel 053 912 2144. St Manntan’s House, ∑ scoilsamhraidh
willieclancy.com
Shaw Theatre ∑ wexfordopera.com Kilmantin Hill, Wicklow.
Old Dublin Rd, Carlow, Co Rock, Jazz Tel 0404 20070. Literary
Carlow. Tel 059 917 2400. ∑ visitwicklow.ie Goldsmith International
∑ visualcarlow.ie and Country Galway Arts Festival Literary Festival
Grand Opera House Cork Jazz Festival Black Box Theatre, Dyke Terlicken, Ballymahon,
Co Longford.
Great Victoria St, Belfast. 20 South Mall, Cork. Rd, Terryland, Galway. Tel (087) 923 6983.
Tel 028 9024 1919. Tel 021 427 0463. Tel 091 509700. ∑ goldsmithfestival.ie
∑ goh.co.uk ∑ guinnessjazz ∑ giaf.ie
festival.com James Joyce
Hawks Well Theatre Great Music Summer School
Temple St, Sligo. Semple Stadium in Irish Houses University College Dublin,
Tel 071 916 1518. Thurles, Co Tipperary. 65 Sandymount Road, Belfield, Dublin 4.
∑ hawkswell.com Tel 0504 22702. Sandymount. Tel 01 716 8159. ∑ joyce
Lime Tree Theatre Traditional Music Tel 01 660 4492. summerschool.ie
69 O’Connell St, Limerick. and Dance ∑ greatmusicinirish Listowel Writers’ Week
Tel 061 774774. houses.com 24 The Square, Listowel,
∑ imetreetheatre.ie Comhaltas Ceoltóirí Kilkenny Arts Festival Co Kerry. Tel 068 21074.
Éireann ∑ writersweek.ie
Lyric Theatre 32 Belgrave Sq, 11 St Patrick’s Court,
55 Ridgeway St, Belfast. Monkstown, Co Dublin. Patrick St, Kilkenny. William Carleton
Tel 028 9038 1081. Tel 01 280 0295. Tel 056 7763 663. Summer School
∑ lyrictheatre.co.uk ∑ comhaltas.ie ∑ kilkennyarts.ie Dungannon District
Council, Circular Rd,
Theatre Feakle Festival Cultural Breaks Dungannon, Co Tyrone.
Feakle, Co Clare. Tel 028 8772 0300.
Druid Theatre Tel 061 924 3885. Archaeology ∑ williamcarleton
Druid Lane, Galway. ∑ feaklefestival.ie Achill Archaeological society.org
Tel 091 568660. Summer School
∑ druid.ie Siamsa Tíre Yeats International
Siamsa Tire Theatre, Folk Life Centre, Dooagh, Summer School
Garter Lane Theatre The Town Park, Tralee, Achill Island, Co. Mayo. Yeats Memorial Building,
O’Connell St, Waterford. Co Kerry. Tel 098 43564. Hyde Bridge, Sligo.
Tel 051 855038. Tel 066 712 3055. ∑ achill-field Tel 071 914 2693.
∑ garterlane.ie ∑ siamsatire.com school.com ∑ yeatssociety.com
340-341_EW_Ireland.indd 341 08/03/17 11:08 am
342 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
Sports, Outdoor Activities and Touring
Even in the largest Irish cities, the countryside is never far have excellent dining facilities.
away, and it beckons alluringly to every lover of the great Croke Park hosts Gaelic football
outdoors. Spec tator sports in Ireland are focused on horse and hurl ing matches. Interna-
racing, followed by hurling, Gaelic foot ball and soccer, which tional rug by and soccer
make for very exciting viewing. Those who want to do more matches are usually held at
the Aviva Stadium, Ireland’s
than just watch, can choose from fishing, golf, horse riding, most impressive sports stadium.
sailing, cycling, walking and water sports, all of which can be For soccer tickets, contact the
enjoyed throughout the country or via designated routes along Football Association of Ireland.
the coastline on the Wild Atlantic Way. In addition to the contacts Rugby enthusiasts should get
on pages 346–7, Fáilte Ireland in the Republic, the Northern in touch with the Irish Rugby
Ireland Tourist Board and all local tourist offices have inform a Football Union.
For golfers, the annual high-
tion on spectator and participant sports. For details of main light is the Irish Open Golf
events in the sporting calendar, see pages 32–3. Championship in July. The ven ue
varies from year to year. For tickets,
contact the European Tour.
Fishing
With some of the cleanest
stretches of freshwater found in
all of Europe, Ireland is a paradise
for anglers. Coarse, game and sea
fishing are all very popular. The
lakes and rivers are home to
bream, pike, perch and roach.
Coastal rivers yield the famous
Irish salmon, along with other
game fish. Sea trout and brown
trout also offer anglers a
challenge. Flounder, whiting,
mullet, bass and coalfish will
tempt the sea angler, while
National Hunt hurdle racing at Punchestown Racecourse deep-sea excursions chase
abundant supplies of dogfish,
Wild Atlantic Way racecourse, where the Irish Derby shark, skate and ling. The Cork
The world’s longest defined is held, is The Curragh (see p135). and Kerry coastline is a highly
coastal touring route, the Wild Fairyhouse Racecourse, home favoured starting point for
Atlantic Way stretches from the of Ireland’s Grand National, is a sea-angling trips.
Inishowen Peninsula in County popular spot year-round, but Clonanav Fly Fishing Centre
Donegal to Kinsale in County especially around Christmas near Clonmel, County Waterford,
Cork. The driving route passes when punters descend to lay
through nine counties along bets on the annual races. A
the coast and is considered the fixture of the racing scene since
ultimate way to explore one of 1824, Punchestown Racecourse
the most dramatic coastlines in County Kildare has a capacity
in the world. Road signs are of 80,000 people. Dublin’s
marked with the Wild Atlantic Leopardstown Racecourse has
Way symbol to guide visitors year-round racing.
driving around the region and Galway Race Week in late July
ideas for pre-planned itineraries, is a great social event. A racing
attractions, activities and sights calendar for the whole of Ireland,
on the route are comprehensively available from Horse Racing
detailed on the Wild Atlantic Ireland, lists National Hunt
Way website or can be obtained and flat race meets, which
from tourist information centres. occur on 230 days of the year.
There are also 19 greyhound
stadia operating in the Republic.
Spectator Sports
The best known are Dublin’s
The Irish passion for horse Shelbourne Park and Harold’s Fishing in the canal at Robertstown,
racing is legendary. A leading Cross Stadium, both of which County Kildare (see p134)
342-343_EW_Ireland.indd 342 08/03/17 11:44 am
SPOR T S , OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES AND T OURING 343
Club organizes a hike each
Sunday on the Wicklow and
Dublin mountains for experienced
walkers. Once a month, the
club’s programme includes an
introductory hard hike which
allows novices to try out more
rigorous hiking.
The award-winning Michael
Gibbons’ Walking Ireland Centre
specializes in half-day walks and
full-day tours in summer that
guide walkers through the land-
scape and heritage of Connemara.
Skibbereen Historical Walks
enables visitors to learn about
Ireland’s past via Skibbereen, a
Walking in the Gap of Dunloe, Killarney (see p167) small town largely associated
with the Great Famine.
Walking and
is popular with both novice and Mountaineering Contact the Mountaineering
experienced anglers as it has Council of Ireland for more
superb accommodation, as The network of waymarked trails details about mountaineering
well as reliable, experienced all over the country cut through and rock-climbing holidays. For
staff. Regarded as the best some of the most glorious Irish any hike, remember to go well-
fishing river in the east, River landscape. Information on long- equipped for the highly
Slaney has many fisheries along distance walks is available from changeable Irish weather.
its banks. Ballintemple Fishery Fáilte Ireland and the Northern
offers angling equipment for Ireland Tourist Board. The Cycling
hire, and instruction if needed. loveliest routes include Wicklow
Rory’s Fishing Tackle in central Way (see p143), Dingle Way, Kerry Several organizations such
Dublin is also a good place to Way, Munster Way as Ireland by Bike
buy tackle and live bait. and Barrow offer self-guided
Information on the required Towpath. Each cycling itiner aries
permits can be obtained from of these may be as well as booked
the Central Fisheries Board split into shorter Sign for the Ulster Way, the trail accommodation.
in the Republic, and from Inland sections for less around Northern Ireland Cycling Ireland is
Fisheries, Department of Culture, experienced the governing
Arts and Leisure, Northern walkers or those short of time. body of cycling in Ireland, and
Ireland. Contact the Irish The 800-km (500-mile) Ulster its website provides information
Federation of Sea Anglers for Way encircles Northern Ireland, on cycling routes and amenities.
useful tips, or in order to book taking in the spectacular The Off-Road Commission
sea-fishing trips or courses. scenery around Giant’s organizes events and provides
Maps and other information Causeway (see pp266–7) and infor mation on the country’s off-
on fishing locations can be the peaks of the mountains road trails and terrain routes.
obtained from Fáilte Ireland of Mourne (see pp288–9). You can transport your bike
in the Republic, and from the Irish Ways offers walking fairly cheaply by train or bus.
Northern Ireland Tourist Board holidays in the Republic. To find For bike rental, try Neill’s Wheels
(see pp350–51). Also, consult the out about organized walks in or Cycleways, both in central
Irish Angling Update website, Northern Ireland, contact the Dublin, or Phoenix Park Bike
which posts regularly updated Ulster Federation of Rambling Hire to explore Europe’s largest
reports on angling conditions. Clubs. An Óige Hill Walkers urban park.
Cycling through the Muckross House estate near Killarney (see p163)
342-343_EW_Ireland.indd 343 08/03/17 11:44 am
344 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
2 km (1 mile) from the heart of
Killarney town. Adventurous
riders can start the four- or six-
day Killarney Reeks Trail here.
The Mountpleasant Pony
Trekking and Horse Riding
Centre can be found within
2,000 acres of forestry and
rolling countryside around
Castlewellan in County Down.
The centre caters for both novice
and experienced riders.
Five Counties Holidays
provides vacations that include
horse riding in different areas
of the north west of Ireland.
Star Irish golfer Padraig Harrington on the Mount Juliet course Also, many riding centres,
such as Equestrian Holidays
Golf Portrush Golf Club and Royal Ireland based in Co Cork,
There are more than 300 golf County Down Golf Club. offer guidance and lessons
courses spread throughout The Golfing Union of Ireland, to beginners as well as to
Ireland, and over 50 are the Irish Ladies Golfing Union more advanced riders and
championship class. Many of the and the tourist boards have lessons in show jumping.
most beautiful greens verge on information on courses, con-
spectacular stretches of coast, ditions and green fees all over
and are kept in top condition. the country. Equipment can Water Sports
In County Kilkenny, the be hired at most clubs. With a coastline of over 4,800 km
internationally acclaimed (3,000 miles), Ireland is the
golf course Mount Juliet perfect venue for water sports.
was designed by golfing Horse Riding and Surfing, windsurfing, scuba
Pony Trekking
legend Jack Nicklaus. County diving and canoeing are the
Kildare’s The K Club is home to The Irish are rightly proud of most popular activities.
two superb 18-hole cham- their fine horses. Many riding Conditions in Sligo are the
pionship golf courses. centres, both residential and best in Ireland for surfing, but
Arnold Palmer designed non-residential, offer trail many other coastal locations
both, but each has its riding and trekking along offer good conditions. The
own charac teristics woodland trails, deserted Irish Surfing Association, the
and special set of beaches, country lanes national governing body for
challenges. Champion and mountain routes. surfing and related activities
golfer Christy The Association of Irish such as knee-boarding and
O’Connor Junior Riding Establishments body-surfing, has plenty of
designed Galway lists riding centres. The information about surfing
Bay Golf Club. This British Horse Society in all 32 Irish counties.
difficult course, a must Ireland shows a map of
for all keen golfers, is Horse riding in horse trails. Dingle,
dotted with historic Killarney Donegal, Connemara
ruins dating back to and Killarney are all
the 16th century. renowned areas for trail riding –
Acknowledged as one of post-to-post and based. Post-to-
the truly great links courses, post trails follow a series of
Portmarnock Golf Club is routes with accommodation in
situated to the north of Dublin, a different place each night.
about 19 km (12 miles) from Based trail rides follow different
the city centre. Its quality routes in one area, but riders
and location have made it a return to stay at the same
splendid venue for some of location each night.
the game’s most celebrated Aille Cross Equestrian Centre
events. On the Atlantic coast, in Connemara offers horseback
Lahinch Golf Club in County trail riding for both experienced
Clare is a must for devoted and novice riders. Riders spend
golfers, and is a recognized four to six hours a day on
Mackenzie course. Connemara ponies or hunting
Northern Ireland’s best- horses. Further south, Killarney Surfing at Bundoran, Donegal Bay
known courses are Royal Riding Stables is located just (see p234)
344-345_EW_Ireland.indd 344 08/03/17 11:44 am
SPOR T S , OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES AND T OURING 345
Adventure Activities
Wind surfing centres in Ireland
are mainly found near Dublin, For those who like to enjoy the
Cork and Westport. great outdoors with a little
Diving conditions are vari able adventure, there is no shortage
but visibility is particu larly good of activities – both in Irish cities
on the west coast. The Irish and the countryside.
Underwater Council will put The naturally varied landscape
you in touch with courses and lends itself perfectly to off-road
facilities. Baltimore Diving exploration, and quad biking is
Centre on the West Cork coast the most exciting way to do it.
organizes scuba-diving courses Quadventure in Wexford has
and wreck and scenic explorations. one of the best facilities in the
DV Diving organizes scuba- Yachting off Rosslare, County Wexford country. Located against the
diving courses too and offers (see p155) scenic backdrop of the Blackstairs
accom modation near Belfast Mountains, the track can be
Lough and the Irish Sea where cruiser and yacht hire. Running catered to your experience level.
there are a number of historic between Carrick-on-Shannon in For something a little different,
wrecks to be explored. Country Leitrim and Upper Big Style specializes in small,
Inland, Lower Lough Erne (see Lough Erne in Fermanagh, is bespoke adventures. It has two
pp274–5) and Killaloe by Lough the Shannon-Erne Waterway schools in Dublin for kite surfing
Derg (see p194) are popular (see p239), a disused canal and stand-up paddleboarding.
holiday centres. The Lakeland reopened in 1993. From here it As well as teaching these sports,
Canoe Centre Enniskillen is simple to continue through it runs various activities through-
bet ween Upper and Lower Upper and Lower Lough Erne out the country – from cliff
Lough Erne gives canoeing (see pp274–5) to Belleek. jumping to spear fishing. A
courses. From March, Atlantic Emerald Star has a fleet of particular highlight is a before-
Sea Kayaking organizes one- cruisers for use on the waterway. sunrise paddleboard trip down
day outings, as well as two- to Shannon Castle Line runs a Dublin’s Liffey River.
eight-day trips around Castle- modern and high-quality fleet Extreme Sports Ireland is an
haven, Baltimore and beyond. of cruisers on the Shannon. excellent resource for a full list
There are several areas around Silver Line Cruisers, which also of outdoor adventure activities.
the coast that are safe for operates on the Shannon, is
experienced swimmers. Ask barely 2 km (1 mile) from the
locally for details. In Dublin, the grand canal, and promises Sports for the Disabled
popular 40 Foot in Sandycove is relaxed, uncrowded cruises. Sports enthusiasts with a
a favourite haunt of dedicated The coast between Cork and disability can obtain details of
sea swim mers. Children are quite the Dingle Peninsula is a popular facilities for the disabled from
safe in the sandy waters inside sailing area. The International the Irish Wheelchair Assoc-
the harbour while adults can Sailing Centre near Cork offers iation. Central and local tourist
enjoy the deeper waters on the tuition. The Irish National boards and many of the organ-
seaward side of the harbour wall. Sailing School in County Dublin izations listed in the directory
Contact the Dublin Tourist provides lessons at all levels. also advise on available
Office for more details. More experi enced sailors can facilities. The Share Village
charter a yacht and sail up the provides a range of activity
dramatic Irish shore to the holidays for both disabled and
Cruising and Sailing
western coast of Scotland. able-bodied people.
A tranquil cruising holiday is an
ideal alternative to the stress
and strain of driving, and Ireland’s
14,000 km (900 miles) of rivers
and some 800 lakes offer a huge
variety of con ditions for those
who want a tranquil waterborne
holiday. Stopping over at
waterside towns and villages
puts you in touch with the Irish
on their home ground. Whether
you opt for Lough Derg or else-
where on the Shannon, or the
Grand Canal from Dublin to the
Shannon, a unique view of the
Irish country side opens up all
along the way. Cruise-Ireland
and Charter Ireland offer Boats moored at Carnlough Harbour on the Antrim coast (see p271)
344-345_EW_Ireland.indd 345 08/03/17 11:44 am
346 TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
DIRECTORY
Wild Atlantic Way Shelbourne Park Michael Gibbons’ Golf
South Lotts Rd, Walking Ireland Centre
∑ wildatlanticway.com Dublin 4. Market Street, Clifden, Galway Bay Golf Club
Tel 01 668 3502. Co Galway. Renville, Oranmore,
Spectator Sports ∑ igb.ie Road map A3. Co Galway.
Aviva Stadium Fishing Tel 095 21379. Road map B4.
Tel 091 790711.
∑ walkingireland.com
Lansdowne Rd, Dublin 4. ∑ galwaybaygolf
Tel 01 238 2300. Ballintemple Fishery Mountaineering resort.com
∑ avivastadium.ie Ardattin, Co Carlow. Council of Ireland
Croke Park Road map D4. Irish Sport HQ, Golfing Union
of Ireland
Jone’s Rd, Dublin 3. Tel 059 915 5037. National Sports Campus, Carton Demesne,
Tel 01 819 2300. ∑ ballintemple.com Blanchardstown, Maynooth, Co Kildare.
∑ crokepark.ie Central Fisheries Dublin 15. Road map D3.
Tel 01 625 1115.
The Curragh Board ∑ mountaineering.ie Tel 01 505 4000.
Racecourse Swords. Tel 01 884 2600. Irish Ladies
∑ cfb.ie
The Curragh, Co Kildare. Skibbereen Historical Golfing Union
Road map D4. Clonanav Fly Walks Q House, 76 Furze House,
Tel 045 441205. Fishing Centre Skibbereen Heritage Ctr,
∑ curragh.ie Ballymacarbry, Co Skibbereen, Co Cork. Sandyford Industrial
Estate, Dublin 18.
Road map B6.
European Tour Waterford. Tel 028 40900. Tel 01 293 4833.
∑ europeantour.com Road map C5. ∑ skibbheritage.com
Tel 613 6765. The K Club
Fairyhouse ∑ flyfishingireland.com Ulster Federation of Straffan, Co Kildare.
Racecourse Inland Rambling Clubs Road map D4.
Rataoth, Co Meath. Fisheries Ireland 23 Innisfayle Park, Tel 01 601 7200.
Road map D3. Causeway Exchange, Bangor, Co Down. ∑ kclub.com
Tel 01 825 6167. 1–7 Bedford St, Belfast. Road map D2.
∑ fairyhouse.ie Tel 0780 151 5232. Lahinch Golf Club
Road map D2. Lahinch, Co Clare.
Football Association Tel 028 9151 3101. ∑ ufrc-online.co.uk Road map B4.
of Ireland ∑ dcalni.gov.uk Tel 065 708 1003.
National Sports Campus, Irish Angling Update Cycling ∑ lahinchgolf.com
Abbotstown, Dublin 15. Cycleways
Dublin map F4. Tel 01 884 2600. 185–6 Parnell St, Mount Juliet
∑ cfb.ie
Tel 01 899 9500. ∑ fai.ie Dublin 1. Thomastown,
Irish Federation of Co Kilkenny.
Harold’s Cross Sea Anglers Dublin map C3. Road map D5.
Stadium Brian Reidy, Ballydavid, Tel 01 873 4748. Tel 056 777 3000.
Harold’s Cross Rd, Dublin 6. Athenry, Co Galway. ∑ cycleways.com ∑ mountjuliet.ie
Tel 01 497 1081. Tel 01 085 733 9040. Cycling Ireland
∑ igb.ie Portmarnock
∑ ifsa.ie 619 North Circular Rd, Golf Club
Horse Racing Ireland Rory’s Fishing Tackle Dublin 1. Portmarnock,
Ballymany, The Curragh, 17a Temple Bar, Tel 01 855 1522. Co Dublin.
Co Kildare. Road map D4. Dublin 2. ∑ cyclingireland.ie Road map D3.
Tel 045 455455. Road map D3. Ireland by Bike Tel 01 846 2968.
∑ goracing.ie
Tel 01 677 2351. Teelin Rd, Carrick, ∑ portmarnock
Irish Rugby ∑ rorys.ie Co Donegal. golfclub.ie
Football Union Road map C2. Royal County Down
10–12 Lansdowne Road, Walking and Tel 087 211 8638. Golf Club
Dublin 4. Tel 01 647 3800. Mountaineering ∑ irelandbybike.com 36 Golf Links Rd,
∑ irishrugby.ie
An Óige Hill Neill’s Wheels Newcastle, Co Down.
Leopardstown Walkers Club Cow’s Lane, Temple Bar, Road map E2.
Racecourse Dublin map C1. Dublin 2. Road map C3. Tel 028 4372 3314.
Leopardstown, Dublin 18. Tel 086 356 3843. Tel 087 933 8312. ∑ royalcounty
Tel 01 289 0500. ∑ hillwalkers ∑ rentabikedublin.com down.org
∑ leopardstown.com club.com
Phoenix Park Royal Portrush
Punchestown Irish Ways Bike Hire Golf Club
Racecourse Belfield Bike Shop, Phoenix Park, Dublin. Dunluce Rd, Portrush,
Naas, Co Kildare. UCD, Dublin 4. Road map D4. Co Antrim. Road map D1.
Road map D4. Road map D4. Tel 086 265 6258. Tel 028 7082 2311.
Tel 045 897704. Tel 01 716 1168. ∑ phoenixparkbike ∑ royalportrush
∑ punchestown.com ∑ irishways.com hire.com golfclub.com
346-347_EW_Ireland.indd 346 08/03/17 11:08 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.5)
Date 5th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
SPOR T S , OUTDOOR A C TIVITIES AND T OURING 347
DIRECTORY
Horse Riding and Baltimore Diving International Sailing Share Village
Pony Trekking Centre Centre Smith’s Strand, Lisnaskea,
Baltimore, Co Cork. East Beach, Cobh, Co Cork.
Aille Cross Road map B6. Co Fermanagh.
Equestrian Centre Tel 028 20300. Road map C6. Road map C2.
Loughrea, Co Galway. ∑ baltimore Tel 021 481 1237. Tel 028 6772 2122.
Road map B4. diving.com ∑ sailcork.com ∑ sharevillage.org
Tel 091 843968. Irish National
∑ connemara- Dublin Tourist Office Sailing School
trails.com ∑ visitdublin.com Dun Laoghaire,
Association of DV Diving Co Dublin.
Irish Riding 138 Mount Stewart Rd, Tel 01 284 4195.
Establishments Newtownards, ∑ inss.ie
Millennium Park, Naas, Co Down. Lough Melvin
Co Kildare. Road map E2. Holiday Centre
Road map D4. Tel 028 9186 1686. Garrison, Co Fermanagh.
Tel 045 854518. ∑ dvdiving.co.uk Road map C2.
∑ aire.ie Irish Surfing Tel 028 6865 8142.
British Horse Society Association ∑ melvinholiday
Ireland Easkey Surf and centre.com
120 Main St, Greyabbey, Information Centre, Shannon Castle Line
Newtownards, Co Down Easkey, Co Sligo. Williamstown Harbour,
Road map D2. Road map B2. Whitegate, Co Clare.
Tel 028 4278 8681. Tel 096 49428. Road map C4.
∑ bhsireland.com ∑ isasurf.ie Tel 061 927042.
Equestrian Holidays Irish Underwater ∑ shannon-river.com
Ireland Council Silver Line Cruisers
Road map C6. 78a Patrick St, The Marina, Banagher,
∑ ehi.ie Dun Laoghaire, Co Offaly.
Co Dublin.
Five Counties Road map D4. Road map C4.
Holidays Tel 01 284 4601. Tel 05791 51112.
Ardmourne House, 36 ∑ diving.ie ∑ silverline
Corgary Rd, Castlederg, cruisers.com
Co Tyrone. Road map C2. Lakeland Canoe
Tel 028 8167 0291. Centre Enniskillen Adventure
∑ five-counties- Castle Island, Enniskillen. Activities
holidays.com Road map C2.
Tel (844 6) 770 5477. Big Style
Killarney Riding ∑ onegreatadventure. Waterways Ireland
Stables com Visitor Centre,
Ballydowney, Killarney, Grand Canal Quay,
Co Kerry. Cruising and Grand Canal Dock, Dublin
Road map B5. Sailing Tel 89 406 9432
Tel 064 663 1686. ∑ bigstyle.ie
∑ killarney-riding- Cruise-Ireland
stables.com 3–9 Fairgreen Rd, Extreme Sports
Ireland
Mountpleasant Pony Markethill, Co Armagh ∑ extremesports.ie
Tel 01 278 1666.
Trekking and Horse ∑ cruise-ireland.com
Riding Centre Quadventure
Bannonstown Rd, Charter Ireland Clonroche,
Castlewellan, Co Down. Radharc an Chlair, Enniscorthy,
Road map D2. Grattan Rd, Salthill, Co. Wexford.
Tel 028 4377 8651. Co Galway Tel 053 9244660
∑ mountpleasant Road map B4. ∑ quadventure.ie
centre.com Tel 089 442 3699.
∑ charterireland.ie Sports for
Water Sports the Disabled
Emerald Star
Atlantic Sea Kayaking The Marina, Irish Wheelchair
Reen Pier,West Cork Carrick-on-Shannon, Association
Road map B6. Co Leitrim. Blackheath Dr, Clontarf,
Tel 028 21058. Road map C3. Dublin 3.
∑ atlanticsea Tel 071 962 7633. Tel 01 818 6400.
kayaking.com ∑ emeraldstar.ie ∑ iwa.ie
346-347_EW_Ireland.indd 347 08/03/17 11:08 am
348-349_EW_Ireland.indd 348 25/04/16 11:04 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Section openers template “UK” LAYER
(SourceReport v1.1)
Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm
The words you are searching are inside this book. To get more targeted content, please make full-text search by clicking here.
The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and
comprehensive maps for exploring this spectacular country.
Spend a weekend in Dublin, tour the North Antrim coastline or drive around the beautiful Ring of Kerry:
everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Ireland
with this indispensable travel guide.
Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Ireland:
- Over 30 colour maps help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Ireland, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations depict Bunratty Castle, Dublin's Trinity College, the Giant's Causeway and more
- Colour photographs of Ireland's scenic coastline, national parks, castles, vibrant towns and cities, and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Dublin and beyond, southeast Ireland, Cork and Kerry, the Lower
Shannon, the west of Ireland, northwest Ireland, the Midlands and Northern Ireland
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about the country's history,
landscape and wildlife, Celtic heritage, music and literature, sporting events and festivals
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus how to get around, visa and health information
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Ireland is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from
your visit to Ireland.
Discover the best professional documents and content resources in AnyFlip Document Base.
Search