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Discover Ireland's hidden gems on 25 leisurely drives through the country's diverse landscape-from Belfast

and the rugged Mourne Mountains to the magical Ring of Kerry.

The book is packed with practical information for exploring the 32 counties of Ireland, including zip codes

for use with GPS, rules of the road, driving tips, and ideas for outdoor activities, stunning walks, and

whiskey-tasting. There are also recommendations for the best-value hotels and restaurants specializing in

regional produce.

Twenty-five themed drives, each lasting one to five days, introduce travelers to the soul of Ireland — from

the golden beaches of Cork and the spectacular Sheep's Head peninsula to the bushy glens of classic Northern Ireland and spellbinding caverns of the lakelands. Along the way, these driving tours of Ireland highlight day trips and activities such as walks and hikes, bird-watching and beach strolls, islands and lighthouses, and children's attractions. Pass by ancient stone circles and megalithic tombs, Celtic crosses, medieval castles, and stately homes.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-26 00:13:06

(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

Discover Ireland's hidden gems on 25 leisurely drives through the country's diverse landscape-from Belfast

and the rugged Mourne Mountains to the magical Ring of Kerry.

The book is packed with practical information for exploring the 32 counties of Ireland, including zip codes

for use with GPS, rules of the road, driving tips, and ideas for outdoor activities, stunning walks, and

whiskey-tasting. There are also recommendations for the best-value hotels and restaurants specializing in

regional produce.

Twenty-five themed drives, each lasting one to five days, introduce travelers to the soul of Ireland — from

the golden beaches of Cork and the spectacular Sheep's Head peninsula to the bushy glens of classic Northern Ireland and spellbinding caverns of the lakelands. Along the way, these driving tours of Ireland highlight day trips and activities such as walks and hikes, bird-watching and beach strolls, islands and lighthouses, and children's attractions. Pass by ancient stone circles and megalithic tombs, Celtic crosses, medieval castles, and stately homes.

DRIVE 2: Islands and Lighthouses 49


Coastal Landscapes appreciate the 140 ha (350 acres) of
A driving tour around this part of forest park, leave the car and try one
the world is lovely not only for the of the many signposted nature trails.
pretty towns and villages along the In summer, the hotel (see left) stages
way, but for its stunning coastal a series of events down by the lake.
scenery. Cliffs and peninsulas are
almost sculpted, dotted by grazing ª Return to the R584 and turn left
sheep or cows. The lush green following signs for Macroom.
pastures and hedgerows here are
in contrast to the more desolate u Macroom
scenery of the coastline further Co Cork
west. Mild Gulf Stream temperatures
cause everything to flourish. It is no Macroom is a busy market town
wonder that there are so many on the River Sullane. It has several
local artisan foods produced in historical features, such as the
this area, many of which can be remains of a gateway and Norman
sampled in atmospheric pubs and tower, both of which were part of
restaurants along the route. Macroom Castle. The gate gives
access to the castle grounds, with
fine riverside walks. Nearby, Bealick
y Gougane Barra Mill Heritage Centre (open Apr–Sep: Above St Finbarr’s Oratory, on the lake in
Forest Park daily) is a working corn mill with a Gougane Barra Forest Park
Co Cork water-powered wheel.
This is a stunning, peaceful national
park set in a lake-filled valley and
surrounded by mountains and EAT AND DRINK AROUND
forests. It is also home to the source BEARA PENINSULA
of Cork’s River Lee. In the centre of
the lake you’ll see St Finbarr’s Oratory, The Copper Kettle inexpensive
set on the island where St Finbarr, An atmospheric café offering
the founder of Cork city, built his sandwiches, salads and hot dishes,
plus mouthwatering desserts and
monastery in the 6th century. The home-baking.
current chapel was built around The Square, Castletownbere;
1900. The island is accessible by 027 71792; open daytime only;
causeway and there are also circular closed Sun
cells and a well to be seen. MacCarthy’s Bar inexpensive
For those who do not have time Lively grocery-pub made famous
to explore on foot, there is also a following its appearance on the cover
circular drive through the forest of Pete McCarthy’s eponymous book;
bar food is available during the day.
(5 km/3 miles). Follow the road with Above Colourful façades and market cross in The Square, Castletownbere;
St Finbarr’s to the right. But to fully Macroom’s main square 027 70014
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Jolly Roger and Murphy’s Bar, often the island – you may see whales
Baltimore is a great base to visit one have live music sessions. The island and dolphins from here. Ireland’s
of West Cork’s lovely islands. Take a is also well-known for its artists. southernmost inhabited island is
trip to Sherkin, Cape Clear, Garinish, also home to a Gaeltacht (Irish-
Whiddy, Dursey or Bere Island to Take the ferry from Baltimore 9 speaking area), with two Irish
sample the relaxed pace of life, or (see p44). summer colleges. There are also craft
take one of the peninsula drives. Cape Clear Island shops, a café, two pubs and a club
Sherkin Island This is a wild, rugged and unspoiled that often hosts music sessions.
Sherkin Island, just 5 km (3 miles) island and, with plenty of wild Take the ferry from Baltimore 9 or
long and 2 km (1 mile) wide, is a flowers, birds and beaches, it is a
peaceful and relaxed haven, with haven of solitude. There are Schull; the journey time is 45 minutes.
stunning beaches such as Silver breathtaking views in all directions, Peninsula drives
Strand and Trabawn, which are safe from the Atlantic and Fastnet Rock, Explore one of the peninsulas –
for swimming, as well as the ruins of to Roaringwater Bay and Baltimore. Mizen Head q, Sheep’s Head w,
O’Driscoll Castle and a Franciscan Historic sights include St Kieran’s or Beara t – from Baltimore 9 or
Abbey dating back to 1460 to Church and O’Driscoll Castle. Walk Bantry e.
explore. There are places to stay on to the 19th-century lighthouse and
the island, and the two pubs, the watchtower at the southern end of Follow the drive instructions.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


042-049_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 49 12/09/17 2:28 pm

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DRIVE 3



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The Majestic

Ring of Kerry

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• Charming Kenmare
Soak up the atmosphere of this
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52 BACK ROADS IRELAND

The Majestic Ring of Kerry

The Ring of Kerry is on the Iveragh Peninsula, the largest of five peninsulas jutting out
into the Atlantic from the southwest of Ireland. The scenic promontory is famed for its
vistas of sea and mountains – visitors have been coming here for centuries, drawn by the
sheer abundance of natural beauty. It is a popular tourist route, so don’t expect splendid
isolation, but this drive offers plenty of opportunities to veer off the beaten track into a
dramatic landscape of coves, cliffs, broad bays and rugged countryside, all set against the
Macgillycuddy Reeks, Ireland’s highest mountain range. This ancient landscape is richly
endowed with remnants of early Christian settlements and megalithic sites.

ACTIVITIES Inch Inch
Kilmurry
Kilmurry
Minard Minard
Visit Iron Age Staigue Fort, the Ballyvirrane
Ballyvirrane
best-preserved in Ireland, set in a Minard TulligTullig Killorglin
Killorglin
Minard
D i n g l e B a
Knockaunaglashy
beautiful valley Bull’s Bull’s PointPoint Knockaunaglashy Faha Faha
HeadHead
Take a boat trip out to the island of D i n g l e B a y y Rossbehy Meanus Laune Laune
Rossbehy
Meanus
Skellig Michael, a UNESCO World Creek Creek
Caragh Caragh
Church
Heritage Site, to see the superb Lough Lough Churchtowntown Beaufort
Beaufort
Glenbeigh
Ross Behy
Caragh
monastic ruins Ross Behy Glenbeigh Caragh Kilgobnet KILLARNEY
Kilgobnet
KILLARNEY
Beach Beach
Walk around Muckross Lough Leane
Lake, through ancient
Lough Leane
KILLARNEY
forests, and have tea in Shanacashel KILLARNEY Muckross
Muckross
NATIONAL P
Shanacashel
an 18th-century Blackstone Bridge NATIONAL PARKARK
Blackstone Bridge
M a c g i l l y c u d
Muckross
hunting lodge M a c g i l l y c u d d y ’ s d y ’ s Muckross Lough Lough
R e e k s e e k s
Lake Lake
Guitane
Purple Mt
Canglass
Canglass Coomasaharn Caragh Caragh Carrantuohill R Purple Mt Guitane
Carrantuohill
Coomasaharn
PointPoint 1041m 1041m 834m834m
Go for an invigorating Dooneen Lough Lough Stoompa
Stoompa
Dooneen
swim in the blue waters Coomacarrea Upper Upper 695m695m
Coomacarrea
Lake Lake
774m774m
Mangerton Mt
of Castlecove Bay, Kimego Mangerton Mt
Kimego
840m840m
KERR
and canoe in nearby Doulus Head Moneyduff KERR Y Y BALLAGHBEAMA LADIES’ VIEW
LADIES’ VIEW
Moneyduff
Doulus Head
BALLAGHBEAMA
Garrane
Derrynane Harbour Renard CAHERSIVEEN Garrane GAPGAP
CAHERSIVEEN
Renard
Knockbrack
Geokaun PointPoint Cloon Cloon Knockbrack
Geokaun
611m611m
MOLL’S GAP
Mountain
Mountain Lough Lough Mullaghanattin Boughil MOLL’S GAP
Mullaghanattin
Boughil
Lissatinnig
Knightstown
Knightstown Tooreenmore Lissatinnig 773m773m 629m629m
Tooreenmore
VALENTIA ISLAND (Lios an tSonnaig) Cappamore
VALENTIA ISLAND
Cappamore
(Lios an tSonnaig)
Oghermong
Oghermong
Kilmackerrin
Coarhabeg Donnybrook Kilmackerrin Derriana Cleady Cleady
Coarhabeg
Derriana
Donnybrook
(Cill Mhic Iarainn)
Kilpearan
Skellig Experience Centre
Skellig Experience Centre Kilpearan (Cill Mhic Iarainn) Lough Lough Gearha Gearha
KENMARE
Portmagee
Bray Head Portmagee Inny Inny Mastergeehy Cloonaghlin KENMARE
Bray Head
Mastergeehy
Cloonaghlin
(Máistir Gaoithe)
Teeranearagh (Máistir Gaoithe)
Teeranearagh
Templenoe
Coonanaspig (Trian Iarthach) Sallahig Lough Lough Templenoe
Sallahig
Coonanaspig
(Trian Iarthach)
Pass Pass
Keel Keel
New Chapel Cross r r
New Chapel Cross
SNEEM
BALLINSKELLIGS
Puffin Island BALLINSKELLIGS SNEEM v e v e
Puffin Island
Ballinsk
(Oileán na gCánóg) SCENIC DRIVE Ballinskelligselligs WATERVILLE R i R i
SCENIC DRIVE
(Oileán na gCánóg)
Beach Beach
WATERVILLE
St Finan’s
St Finan’s Ballinskelligs Lough Lough
Currane
Currane
Ballinskelligs
Rossmore
BayBay (Baile an Sceilg)ceilg) Parknasilla Tahilla Tahilla Rossmore

(Baile an S
Parknasilla
Island Island
STAIGUE FORT
Ballinskelligs
Ballinskelligs STAIGUE FORT Ardea Ardea
Ardkearagh
Bolus Mountain
Ducalla Head Bolus Mountain BayBay Ardkearagh Rossdohan
Ducalla Head
Rossdohan
411m411m
Coomakesta
Coomakesta Island Island
Pass Pass
K e n m a r e
Little Skellig
Little Skellig Bolus Head Bridge Ville Sherky Sherky Bunaw Bunaw
Bridge Ville
Bolus Head
(Sceilg Bheag) Hogs Head West Cove Island Island
(Sceilg Bheag)
Hogs Head
West Cove
Skellig St Michael
Skellig St Michael Derrynane K e n m a r e
Caherdaniel CASTLEC
Derrynane
(Sceilg Mhichíl)
(Sceilg Mhichíl) Caherdaniel CASTLECOVEOVE
DERRYNANE
DERRYNANE
BAYBAY
Scariff Scariff Lamb’s Lamb’s
Deenish
Deenish
HeadHead
KEY 0 kilometres 5
Drive route
0 miles 5
052-053_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 52 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 53

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Kenmare to Killarney.
Number of days: 3, allowing half a
day for Valentia Island and a trip to
Skellig Michael island, and half a day
for Killarney National Park.
Distance: 210 km (130 miles).
Road conditions: Roads are paved
and signposted, but there are some
steep inclines on the passes. Turns off
Inch Inch Above Meeting of the Waters, where the Upper Lake flows the main Ring of Kerry are not always
Kilmurry into Muckross Lake, in Killarney National Park, see p59 as well signposted.
Kilmurry
Minard Minard
Ballyvirrane
TulligTullig Ballyvirrane When to go: July and August can be
Killorglin
Minard
Minard Killorglin
D i n g l e B a y y Rossbehy Meanus Laune Laune which to visit are June and September.
Knockaunaglashy
D i n g l e B a
Bull’s Bull’s PointPoint Knockaunaglashy crowded, with tour buses dominating
HeadHead Faha Faha the main routes. The best months in
Rossbehy
Meanus
Creek Creek
In the winter, many places beyond
Caragh Caragh
Church
Lough Lough Churchtowntown Beaufort Kenmare and Killarney will be closed.
Beaufort
Glenbeigh
Ross Behy Glenbeigh Caragh
Ross Behy
Caragh
KILLARNEY
Kilgobnet
Beach Beach Kilgobnet KILLARNEY Opening times: Shops are generally
open 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm, but most
close on Sundays except corner shops.
Lough Leane
Lough Leane
KILLARNEY
KILLARNEY Muckross Catholic churches stay open all day.
Muckross
NATIONAL P
Shanacashel
Shanacashel NATIONAL PARKARK
Blackstone Bridge
Blackstone Bridge M a c g i l l y c u d d y ’ s d y ’ s Muckross Lough Lough Main market days: Kenmare: Wed;
M a c g i l l y c u d
Muckross
R
Guitane
Purple Mt
Canglass Coomasaharn Caragh Caragh Carrantuohill R e e k s e e k s Purple Mt Lake Lake Guitane Milltown: Sat; Killarney: Fri.
Canglass
Carrantuohill
Coomasaharn
PointPoint 1041m 1041m 834m834m
Lough Lough
Stoompa
Dooneen Upper Upper Stoompa Shopping: Kenmare is renowned for
Dooneen
Coomacarrea
Coomacarrea Lake Lake 695m695m
Kimego 774m774m Mangerton Mt its wide range of individual shops and
Mangerton Mt
Kimego
KERR
Doulus Head Moneyduff KERR Y Y LADIES’ VIEW 840m840m galleries selling top-quality local art
LADIES’ VIEW
Moneyduff
Doulus Head
BALLAGHBEAMA
Garrane
Garrane BALLAGHBEAMA and crafts. Look out in particular for
CAHERSIVEEN
Renard
Renard CAHERSIVEEN GAPGAP Knockbrack fine linen and lace.
Knockbrack
Geokaun PointPoint Cloon Cloon 611m611m
Geokaun
MOLL’S GAP
Mountain
Mountain Lough Lough Mullaghanattin Boughil MOLL’S GAP
Mullaghanattin
Boughil
Knightstown Tooreenmore Lissatinnig 773m773m 629m629m Major festivals: Killorglin: Puck Fair
Lissatinnig
Knightstown
Tooreenmore
VALENTIA ISLAND (Lios an tSonnaig) Cappamore (coronation of goat king), 10–12 Aug;
VALENTIA ISLAND
(Lios an tSonnaig)
Cappamore
Oghermong
Oghermong
Kilmackerrin
Coarhabeg Donnybrook Kilmackerrin Derriana Cleady Cleady Cahersiveen: Cahersiveen Festival of
Coarhabeg
Donnybrook
Derriana
Music, Jun/Jul–Aug; Killarney:
(Cill Mhic Iarainn)
Kilpearan
Skellig Experience Centre
Skellig Experience Centre Kilpearan (Cill Mhic Iarainn) Lough Lough Gearha Gearha Summer Festival, Jul.
KENMARE
Portmagee
Bray Head
Mastergeehy
Bray Head Portmagee Inny Inny Mastergeehy Cloonaghlin KENMARE
Cloonaghlin
(Máistir Gaoithe)
Teeranearagh (Máistir Gaoithe)
Teeranearagh
Coonanaspig (Trian Iarthach) Sallahig Lough Lough Templenoe
Templenoe
Coonanaspig
Sallahig
(Trian Iarthach)
Pass Pass
Keel Keel
New Chapel Cross
New Chapel Cross r r DAY TRIP OPTIONS
SNEEM
BALLINSKELLIGS
Puffin Island BALLINSKELLIGS SNEEM v e v e
Puffin Island
Ballinsk
(Oileán na gCánóg) SCENIC DRIVE Ballinskelligselligs WATERVILLE R i R i
(Oileán na gCánóg)
SCENIC DRIVE
Beach Beach
WATERVILLE
St Finan’s Ballinskelligs Lough Lough For nature and history lovers, a day
St Finan’s
Currane
Currane
spent exploring Killarney and the
Ballinskelligs
Rossmore
BayBay (Baile an Sceilg)ceilg) Parknasilla Tahilla Tahilla Rossmore

(Baile an S
Parknasilla
Island Island
STAIGUE FORT
Ballinskelligs
Ballinskelligs STAIGUE FORT Ardea Ardea National Park, with beautiful lakes and
Ardkearagh
Bolus Mountain
Ducalla Head
Ducalla Head Bolus Mountain BayBay Ardkearagh Rossdohan historic buildings, is a perfect choice.
Rossdohan
411m411m
Coomakesta Island Island Outdoor enthusiasts will enjoy the
Coomakesta
Pass Pass
K e n m a r e
Little Skellig Bolus Head Bridge Ville Sherky Sherky Bunaw Bunaw rugged cliffs of Valentia Island and
Little Skellig
Bridge Ville
Bolus Head
(Sceilg Bheag)
West Cove
(Sceilg Bheag) Hogs Head West Cove Island Island then a boat trip to the ancient
Hogs Head
Skellig St Michael Derrynane K e n m a r e
Skellig St Michael
Derrynane
Caherdaniel CASTLEC
(Sceilg Mhichíl) Caherdaniel CASTLECOVEOVE monastery of Skellig Michael. If time
(Sceilg Mhichíl)
DERRYNANE allows, finish with a walk up to the
DERRYNANE
BAYBAY Geokaun Mountain or Fogher Cliffs.
Scariff Scariff Lamb’s Lamb’s For full details, see p59.
Deenish
Deenish
HeadHead
Left One of many attractive cafés in
the village of Sneem, see p54
052-053_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 53 11/09/17 12:29 pm

54 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Kenmare ª Take the main N71 from the
Co Kerry Square and over the Cromwell Bridge,
The picturesque heritage town of signposted for Moll’s Gap and
Kenmare on the mouth of the River Killarney. Very shortly after the bridge,
Sneem regularly comes top of many turn left onto the N70, signposted
Irish people’s list when asked to to Sneem. The drive from Kenmare to
nominate their favourite town. It isn’t Sneem along the banks of the River
completely in thrall to tourism and Kenmare affords lovely views of the
goes about its business in a dignified Caha and Slieve Miskish mountains
and discreet manner. Its Irish name, on the opposite shore.
Neidin, translates as “little nest”, and is
an apt description. It lies at the head 2 Sneem
of the River Kenmare, flanked by the Co Kerry
Ring of Beara (see p48) and the Ring This quaintly pretty village, located at
of Kerry, making it an ideal base from the head of an estuary flowing into
which to explore either peninsula. Kenmare river, is built around a
The town centre is compact, and picturesque green on which stands
its X-shaped street pattern converges a statue to the local hero Steve
Above Handsome Derrynane House, set in in a triangular square at the junction “Crusher” Casey, a world champion
subtropical gardens where flax grows of Henry Street and Main Street. Its wrestler. This is a good place to stop
narrow streets are lined with great for a quick bite or coffee. There are
VISITING KENMARE shops and galleries, live music pubs some nice shops, galleries and cafés
Parking and some excellent restaurants and off the main square.
Park on either side of Main Street or in cafés. The library now houses the ª Continue west on the N70 in the
the Square opposite the Tourist Office. Carnegie Arts Centre (www. direction of Castlecove. At a junction
Tourist Information carnegieartskenmare.ie), whose state- just before the village, there is a tea
The Square; 064 664 1233; open Mar–Oct: of-the-art theatre stages a wide room and visitor centre for Staigue
daily; www.discoverireland.com/kerry range of top-quality drama and Fort. Turn right here, taking the
concerts. It is worth dawdling a while narrow road as indicated, which leads
WHERE TO STAY to make the most of this delightful to the fort itself, and park by the fort.
town. An advantage to starting the
KENMARE drive around the Ring from here is 3 Staigue Fort
Lissyclearig Thatched Cottage that there is less chance of getting Castlecove, Co Kerry
inexpensive stuck behind a convoy of tour buses, This is an impressive ring fort, thought
Charming traditional house in a quiet as the majority of tours set off from to date from 300–400 AD, set in a
location with lovely countryside views. Killarney, following an anti-clockwise beautiful, remote valley. One of
Moll’s Gap Road; 064 664 2562;
www.lissyclearigthatchedcottage.com route around the peninsula. the best preserved Iron Age forts in
Kenmare is also renowned for its Ireland, Staigue Fort has 5-m (16-ft)
Lansdowne Arms moderate
A welcoming family-run hotel. traditional lace. During the famine high dry-stone walls surrounded by
Main Street; 064 664 1368 ; years, nuns from the local convent, a bank and a ditch. Access the two
www.lansdownearms.com St Clare’s, introduced lace making to vaulted chambers within and climb
create work for the women and girls. up the ramparts. It’s also well worth
The Park Hotel expensive
This chateau-style hotel offers modern
comforts, including a gorgeous spa, in Below The River Sneem before it flows into the estuary at Kenmare
a traditional setting. Great estuary views.
High Street; 064 664 1200;
www.parkkenmare.com
SNEEM
Parknasilla Hotel expensive
Set in swathes of subtropical parkland
overlooking Kenmare Bay, this hotel
may have the best location in Ireland.
Parknasilla Resort; 064 667 5600;
www.parknasillahotel.ie; closed Jan–Mar
WATERVILLE
Butler Arms Hotel
inexpensive-moderate
One of Ireland’s best-known hotels –
Charlie Chaplin was once a regular.
Waterville; 066 947 4144;
www.butlerarms.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


054-059_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 54 13/10/17 1:06 pm
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DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 55


















Above left White sands and rocky outcrops
worth walking a little way up the Catholic emancipation in 1829. The of Castlecove Above Sturdy remains of the
slopes of the valley to get a proper house contains much important impressive Iron Age Staigue Fort
sense of the scale of the fort set memorabilia, and there is a video
against the surrounding landscape. presentation on his life and times.
ª Return to the N70 and turn right The lush subtropical gardens run EAT AND DRINK
for Castlecove, then left for the beach. down to the bay where there is a
wide, sandy beach backed by dunes. KENMARE
4 Castlecove ª Return to the N70 and turn left. Packies inexpensive
Co Kerry Beyond Caherdaniel, the Ring of Kerry The mainstays here include Irish stew
and fish chowder, and they are very
The main attraction of this little climbs steeply to the Coomakista Pass, proud of their “real prawn cocktail”.
resort is the beautiful white sandy with stunning views of Scariff Island Henry St; 064 664 1508; closed Sun
beach that looks out across the and the mouth of the River Kenmare. No 35 Restaurant moderate
River Kenmare towards the Carry on to Waterville. The menu at this informal restaurant
Slieve Miskish Mountains. features pizza and pasta dishes with
This sheltered cove is 6 Waterville an emphasis on local produce.
ideal for safe swimming Co Kerry 35 Main Street; 064 664 1559;
and is understandably Near Waterville, on www.no35kenmare.com
popular with families. the descent from the Lime Tree Restaurant expensive
Children will also love to Coomakista Pass, One of Kenmare’s best restaurants, with
explore the deep rock the jagged silhouette of a loyal following. The food is classic
Irish with a contemporary approach.
pools for sea life when the Skellig Rock (see p56) can Shelbourne Street; 064 664 1225; www.
tide is out. be seen far out to sea. The limetreerestaurant.com; closed Nov–Mar
ª Return to N70 and Blind Piper pub sign, town itself is located on a SNEEM
continue to Caherdaniel. Caherdaniel long strip of land between
Turn left here, signposted to Lough Currane and Sacre Coeur Restaurant moderate
Fresh fish features on the menu but
Derrynane House. Ballinskelligs Bay. Many visitors are local lamb is also a speciality.
attracted by its extensive beach, North Square; 064 664 5186; open
5 Derrynane Bay Waterville Strand; a championship dinner only; www.sacrecoeur.com
Co Kerry golf course and superb angling are WATERVILLE
The village of Caherdaniel sprawls other notable attractions. The beach Old Cable House inexpensive
along Derrynane Bay’s eastern flank. is on the left of the town, backed by The Old Cable House is blessed with
At the heart of the village are two a grassy promenade. Keep an eye clear views across the Atlantic, where
excellent pubs, the Blind Piper and out for the bronze statue of Charlie the first transatlantic telegraph cable
Freddie’s bar. Chaplin, who was a regular visitor, was laid from here to the USA in 1866.
A little way beyond the village staying at the Butler’s Arms with his A guesthouse, it also welcomes non-
residents for unfussy seafood with an
is Derrynane House (open mid-Mar– trademark bowler hat and cane. emphasis on freshness and flavour.
Nov: daily; gardens all year), set Waterville boasts many good places Local lamb and beef also on the menu.
in a 120-ha (300-acre) wooded to eat and is an ideal stop off. Old Cable Station; 066 947 4233;
National Park. The former home ª Continue in the same direction on www.oldcablehouse.com
of Daniel O’Connell (see p58), it is the N70, signposted for Cahersiveen. Smuggler’s Inn moderate
now a museum dedicated to “The After New Chapel Cross turn left onto The watchword at this smart restaurant
Liberator” as he is sometimes called. the R567, signed to Ballinskelligs. adjacent to the golf course overlooking
A hugely popular and non-violent Shortly after the road crosses the Ballinskeligs Bay is sustainable seafood,
such as monkfish and black sole.
campaigner, he championed the rights River Inny there is a sign for the Cliff Road; 066 947 4330;
of the poor and helped bring about Skellig Ring Drive. www.thesmugglersinn.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


054-059_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 55 11/09/17 12:29 pm

56 BACK ROADS IRELAND


7 Skellig Ring Drive Skellig Rocks, rising up from a vast
Co Kerry expanse of sea. The road continues
Since there are no coach tours around, skirting the edge of Saint
allowed on this stretch of the road – Finan’s Bay before climbing again to
known as the Skellig Ring Drive – Coonanaspig Pass. There follows an
it is easy to enjoy the scenery in exhilarating descent into the harbour
relative isolation. Where the R567 village of Portmagee. At the foot of
joins the R566, turn left and follow the hill, on the left, is a family-run
the road as it curves around the café, the Skellig Mist. From here, it
bay, leading to Ballinskelligs village, is a 20-minute walk to the nearby
where there is a magnificent stretch cliffs, which offer a spectacular view
of sandy beach. After the village, the across to Valentia Island.
road inclines sharply towards Bolus ª From the café turn left onto
Head, before turning northwards, the minor road and follow it onto the
skirting Bolus Mountain. Soon the R565 to the left to drive over
landscape opens up into thrilling the bridge that crosses the channel
vistas of a patchwork of fields to Valentia Island. Coming off the
Above Puffin Island, seen from Coonanaspig sweeping down to the headland bridge, the Skellig Experience
Pass on the Skellig Ring Drive and the jagged diamond of the Centre is on the left.


8 Valentia Island
Co Kerry
Valentia Island has an enthralling mix of towering cliffs, rolling hills
VISITING SKELLIG MICHAEL
and wild seascapes, and is noted for the variety of subtropical plants
The Skellig Experience Centre that have taken root here. History was made here in 1866 when the
organizes cruises to Skellig St Michael first transatlantic telegraph to the United States was laid here. Be
(Great Skellig) and Small Skellig when
the sea is not too rough. For details visit aware that the car ferry used for part of this route runs Apr–Oct only;
the centre or its website, www. winter visitors will have to return from the island using the road bridge.
skelligexperience.com. Several
independent boat owners can take you
to the Skelligs too. On Valentia Island, 1 Skellig Experience Centre thrived on the island and on the way
try Owen Walsh Skellig Boat Trips, Housed in a striking, prize-winning of life of its remarkably resilient
066 947 6327, or Ocean Quests, 066 stone building with a grass roof, the monks. There are also displays on the
947 6214 (Apr–Sep). Alternatively, try
Casey’s Skellig Boat Trips, Portmagee, Skellig Experience Centre (open May– bird and underwater life of the island.
066 947 2437, or Waterville Boats, Sep: daily; Mar, Apr, Oct & Nov: Mon–Fri) The Centre is able to arrange boat
Waterville, 066 947 4800 (May–Sep only). has displays on every facet of Skellig trips to Skellig Michael.
Michael (Sceiig Mhichil), which is ª On leaving the car park, turn left
now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. up the hill. At the first junction turn
WHERE TO STAY IN
BALLAGHBEAMA GAP This remote and rocky outcrop left again, following the signs for the
contains one of the best-preserved Skellig Drive, and continue to a fork
Blackstones House inexpensive early Christian monastic sites in the in the road. To access the path to
Situated at the foot of Carruntuohill, world. The audiovisual presentation Bray Tower, fork left and drive until
Ireland’s highest mountain, and is full of fascinating detail on the a lay-by at the end of the road is
overlooking the Caragh River, this centuries in which the monastery reached. Park here.
friendly family-run B&B enjoys a
splendid location. All rooms are
ensuite with views of the river and the Lough Kay Cahersiveen
soothing sound of its soft gurgling. 0 kilometres 3 Reenadrolaun
Point
Blackstone Bridge, Glencar; 066 976 Geokaun Renard
0164; www.blackstoneshouse.com 0 miles 3 Mountain Point
Fogher
Carrig Country House and Cliffs Knightstown
Restaurant moderate–expensive
A former hunting lodge, owned by Valentia Oghermong
Lord Brockett, this manor house is the Island
perfect hideaway – relaxed, and with
a charming atmosphere. There are Coarhabeg Donnybrook
wonderful views over Caragh Lake, and Bray Tower Skellig Experience
a restaurant, which offers exceptional Centre Kilpearan
cooking (non-residents are welcome). Portmagee
Killorglin, Caragh Lake; 066 976 9100;
www.carrighouse.com; closed end
Nov–Mar
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
054-059_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 56 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 57


2 Bray Tower certainly worth the short trek up.
Bray Tower is an 18th-century signal On Geokaun Mountain there is a
tower standing on the promontory viewing platform and information
of Bray Head. It is thought originally plaques explaining what you can see.
to have been a Martello lookout Before reaching the top, walk the
tower, many of which were built short path on the left to the Fogher
around Ireland in response to the Cliffs and take in the panoramic
threat of an invasion by Napoleon. landscape from the viewing deck.
From the car park, head out on foot ª Continue to Knightstown for the car
along the track that leads out to the ferry that runs continuously to Renard
headland and the tower. On a clear Point. From there drive east to Caher­
day, the sweeping vistas of the siveen. If the ferry is not running (Nov–
surrounding headlands and islands Mar), retrace your route to Portmagee.
are truly magnificent. Allow an hour Take the R565 to Oghermong, then
for the whole walk. the N70 north to Cahersiveen.
ª Return to the fork in the road and Above Rossbehy Beach at Glenbeigh, on the
this time take the other fork. Continue Monastic miracle road from Cahersiveen to Caragh Lake
until you see a left sign for Geokaun In the 6th century, a group of
Mountain and Fogher Cliffs. Drive to monks established a monastery on
the top or park at the foot of the the island Skellig Michael – nothing
mountain and walk (20 minutes). short of a miracle of devotion and
ingenuity. Having withstood the
forces of the Atlantic for nearly 1,500
3 Geokaun Mountain and the years, the chapel and beehive huts
Fogher Cliffs are still remarkably preserved.
These are the highest points on the The hardy monastic community
island and indeed on the whole Ring remained there for 600 years.
of Kerry. The views from the top are
EAT AND DRINK
SKELLIG RING DRIVE
The Moorings moderate
Looking out over the harbour, this
guesthouse, restaurant and bar caters
for all needs. The award-winning Bridge
Bar is ideal for a light lunch before
venturing onto Valentia Island. There’s
traditional Irish music and dancing
every Friday.
Harbour Front, Portmagee; 066 947
7108; www.moorings.ie
VALENTIA ISLAND
Knightstown Coffee Shop
inexpensive
This charming coffee shop offers a
Above A panoramic view of Bray Head and its steep cliffs, Valentia Island selection of wraps, croissants and
baguettes, as well as a range of more
9 Cahersiveen Ballaghbeama Gap substantial meals. It doubles up as a
Co Kerry Co Kerry second-hand bookshop and offers
Cahersiveen is the main service town From Blackstone Bridge, a narrow road Internet access.
Market Street; 066 947 6373;
for this part of the peninsula. Its winds its way up in the shadow of the www.knightstowncoffee.com
chief claim to fame is that Daniel Magillicuddy Reeks to Ballaghbeama
O’Connell, who agitated for Catholic Gap. On a clear day there are sweeping CAHERSIVEEN
emancipation, was born here. views across the lonely, windswept The Point Bar moderate
The Heritage Centre has displays landscape. Take a right fork 1 km (half Near to where the ferry disembarks
covering the life of O’Connell and the a mile) after the bridge to a T-junction from Valentia Island, this place is an
institution and a great spot for a pint
ill-fated Fenian uprising of 1867. (2 km/1 mile), then turn right for outdoors on a summer’s evening,
ª Take the N70 north. It dips down to Cahersiveen, past the Climber’s Inn, watching harbour life. However, the
sea level at Glenbeigh. Beyond this, turn then sharp left for Ballaghbeama Gap real draw here is the fresh seafood,
right for Glencar and Caragh Lake. Turn (signposted). From the top, the road which is very reasonably priced.
Food is only served during the
right over a bridge and drive round the descends to join the R568, skirting summer months.
lake to Blackstone Bridge over the River the southern flanks of the Reeks. Renard Point, Cahersiveen;
Caragh, a picturesque picnic spot. ª On the R568 turn left to Moll’s Gap. 066 947 2165
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


054-059_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 57 11/13/17 3:22 PM

58 BACK ROADS IRELAND

VISITING KILLARNEY
Tourist Information
Beech Road, Killarney; 064 663 1633;
www.killarney.ie
Killarney National Park Information
Muckross House; 064 667 0144;
www.killarneynationalpark.ie
Parking
There is a car park next to the Tourist
Information centre, but this may be
full in high season. An alternative is
Glebe car park on College Road.
WHERE TO STAY
Above Majestic Upper and Muckross lakes and Lough Leane, seen from Ladies’ View
KILLARNEY
Killarney Lodge moderate q Moll’s Gap would be hard to disagree with her.
Just a stroll from the town centre yet Co Kerry From here it seems as if the whole of
beautifully secluded in its own walled Moll’s Gap is where the R568 meets Kerry is laid out directly below. Upper
garden, this family-run guest house
offers excellent accommodation. the N71, which runs between Lake stretches away to link up with
Countess Road; 064 663 6499; Killarney and Kenmare. There are the two lower lakes, Muckross and
www.killarneylodge.ie several spectacular vistas from here, Leane. On the far side is the dramatic
KILLARNEY NATIONAL PARK but sadly many of the best places for Carrauntoohil massif.
viewing have been fenced off. ª Continue on the N71 to Killarney
Cahernane House Hotel moderate
Set in its own parklands on the edge of ª Continue on the N71 to Ladies’ National Park and Muckross.
the national park, this has a charming View, pausing at the lay-by just before
old-world atmosphere and open fires. it for more splendid views. The Liberator
Muckross Road (off N71); 064 663 Daniel O’Connell (1775–1847), “The
1895; www.cahernane.com; closed w Ladies’ View Liberator”, campaigned for equal
Nov–Jan
Killarney, Co Kerry rights and religious tolerance. His
Coolclogher House moderate Ladies’ View takes its name from one goal was partially achieved in 1829,
This early Victorian house on a working of Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting when Catholics were at last admitted
farm is a haven of tranquillity. Four to Parliament in Westminster, and
rooms have mountain and sea views. who, accompanying the monarch on he became the first Irish Catholic
Mill Road (third left off N71 from a visit to Killarney in 1861, pronounced MP in the House of Commons.
Killarney); 064 663 5996; it “the finest view in the realm”. It
www.coolclogherhouse.com
Muckross Park Hotel
moderate–expensive e Killarney National Park
Dating from 1795, this is Killarney’s Co Kerry
most beautifully located hotel, opposite
Muckross Abbey. Elegant bedrooms. Killarney National Park covers approximately 10,000 ha (25,000 acres)
Muckross Village; 064 662 3400; and encompasses three lakes – Upper, Muckross and Leane – and the
www.muckrosspark.com surrounding mountains. It contains Ireland’s largest area of ancient
oak forest and its only remaining herd of indigenous red deer.
Below Lovely Muckross House, in the heart of
Killarney National Park A two-hour walking tour main rooms have been renovated in
This circular tour, known as the period style. Next door, the working
Dinis Walk, is a delightful stroll farm project at the Traditional Farms
around Muckross Lake, through (open May–Sep: daily; Apr & Oct:
ancient woodlands of oak and weekends) has recreated Irish rural life
mountain ash. The walk starts at of the 1930s, before electrification.
Muckross House (open daily) 1, Mucros Pottery and Weaving can
next to the car park. The focal be seen in action next to the craft
point of the park, the house is a shop in the Walled Garden Centre.
fine Victorian residence, completed From the house there are several
in 1843 to designs by Scottish alternative walks around the lakes
architect William Burn. Queen and through the woods or, for a
Victoria herself visited in 1861 as a different touring experience, trips in
guest of the Herbert family, who a horse-drawn jaunting car are also
landscaped the gardens in her possible (pick one up outside the house).
honour, planting them with azaleas To continue the Dinis Walk, follow
and rhododendrons. Today, the the marked trail down to the
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


054-059_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 58 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 3: The Majestic Ring of Kerry 59


Muckross
Abbey
Lough Leane
Brickeen
Bridge
Muckross
Meeting of House
the Waters Dinis Cottage
Old Weir Bridge Muckross Lake

Torc
Waterfall
0 metres 250
Upper
Lake
0 yards 250
Above Riding in a traditional jaunting car
spectacular 20 m (60 ft) Torc founded in 1448. Return to the car through the woods in Killarney National Park
Waterfall 2 – a 30-minute walk. park, completing the circuit. Back
From here, follow the Torc Trail along in the car, turn left out of the main
the base of Torc Mountain to the Old entrance onto the N71. Turn left
Weir Bridge 3, where Muckross Lake before Killarney to the 15th-century
and the Upper Lake first meet. Soon Ross Castle, on a peninsula in Lough
afterwards the path arrives at the Leane. From here boats cross to
thrilling Meeting of the Waters 4, Innisfallen Isle, home to the ruins
where the Upper Lake of another abbey.
actually flows into ª Return to the N71 and
Muckross Lake. It’s worth continue to Killarney. EAT AND DRINK IN KILLARNEY
pausing here to watch
the boatmen negotiate r Killarney Bricin inexpensive
Bricin is Gaelic for small trout so it’s no
the turbulent flow of Co Kerry surprise that fish dishes feature in this
water. A little way further Killarney is a convenient family-run restaurant and high-quality
along on the right is base from which to explore craft store. Also worth trying is boxty,
Dinis (Dinish) Cottage 5 the natural splendours of the a traditional potato pancake.
(open May–Sep daily), an Stained-glass national park. St Mary’s 26 High Street; 064 663 4902;
www.bricin.com; closed Sun & Mon
18th-century hunting pub window Cathedral, designed by and all of Jan & Feb
lodge, now an eco-friendly Pugin and built in 1842, is
tea room. Continue along the narrow considered Ireland’s finest example Gaby’s Seafood Restaurant
moderate
stretch of land between Muckross of High Gothic, and is worth a visit. At this excellent seafood restaurant
Lake and Lough Leane to the The little Victorian lanes that branch you can choose from a wide selection
picturesque arches of Brickeen off the main street are also enjoyable of fish, cooked in a variety of ways. The
(Bricin) Bridge 6. Cross the bridge to wander. There are lively pubs – lobster and wild Atlantic salmon steaks
are particularly succulent. Cosy, rustic
and carry on past Colleen Bawn many playing live music – and decor, with an open fire.
Rock, following the path along restaurants in the town, and a good 27 High Street; 064 663 2519;
Lough Leane to Muckross Abbey 7, choice of accommodation. www.gabys.ie; closed Sun
DAY TRIP OPTIONS lovely 6th-century ruined abbey – a monastery established in the
Killarney or the area around Valentia on the heavily wooded island 6th century on the remote island of
Island are ideal bases from which to of Inisfallen. Great Skellig. The drystone beehive
explore the glorious Kerry landscape. huts built by the monks can be seen
From Killarney, take N71 to the
Lakes and abbeys Killarney National Park and park in on a cruise from the centre or on an
Stroll around Killarney r and have Muckross House or Muckross Abbey car independent boat trip from Valentia
a look at the cathedral, then head park (just before house on the right). Island or Portmagee. Back on dry
to Killarney National Park e. After land, continue to Bray Tower or
doing the Dinis Walk, take a Islands and monasteries Geokaun Mountain and the Fogher
jaunting-car trip up to Muckross Explore Valentia Island 8, starting Cliffs for bracing clifftop walks.
Abbey and on to the pier at Ross the day at the Skellig Experience
Castle, where boat trips set off Centre to find out about the Skellig Follow the drive instructions from
across Lough Leane to visit the Michael UNESCO World Heritage Site Ballinskelligs and Valentia Island.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


054-059_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 59 11/09/17 12:29 pm

BR_IR_060-061_Opener4.indd 60 23/10/09 14:22:56
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DRIVE 4



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The Dingle

Peninsula

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Highlights
• Lively musical town
Discover the vibrant, colourful
harbour town of Dingle, situated in
the heart of an Irish-speaking region

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• Historic landscapes
Delve into countryside rich in
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Neolithic and early Christian sites
Rocky cliffs on the northern coastline of the
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62 BACK ROADS IRELAND

The Dingle Peninsula

Of the five peninsulas in southwest Ireland, the Dingle is perhaps the
connoisseur’s choice. This is a drive through an ancient landscape, dotted The Seven Hogs or
with remnants of early Christian churches, monastic settlements and The Seven Hogs or
Magharee Islands
Magharee Islands
Neolithic structures. It runs through the most westerly landscape Rough Rough Ardfert Ardfert
in Europe, and the dramatic scenery of Slea Head, Scraggane Point Point
Scraggane
Bay Bay
the brooding presence of Mount Brandon and the Fahamore
Fahamore
Brandon
marvellous chain of precipitous cliffs and Brandon Chapeltown
Point Point
Chapeltown
Towlaght
sandy beaches will remain etched in the Brandon Br andon Towlaght Kilfenora
Brandon
Kilfenora
HeadHead
memory. Food-lovers will enjoy the (Cé Bhréanainn) Br andon Lough Lough FenitFenit Spa Spa
Brandon
Brandon
B ay B ay
(Cé Bhréanainn)
TRALEE
THE MAHAREES
famed seafood of Dingle, part of Gill Gill THE MAHAREES T r alee TRALEE
T r alee
PENINSULA
PENINSULA
BRANDON
Blennerville
the burgeoning culinary BRANDON Castlegregory B ay B ay Blennerville
Castlegregory
CREEK CREEK
Stradbally
scene that has seen its Ballyroe Brandon Mountain Cloghane Stradbally Killiney Killiney Aughacasla Derrymore
Brandon Mountain
Derrymore
Ballyroe
Cloghane
953m953m
Aughacasla
(Baile Reo)
(An Clochán)
reputation soar in Ballydavid (Baile Reo) Tiduff Tiduff (An Clochán)
(An Tigh Dubh)
(An Tigh Dubh)
Ballydavid
(Baile na nGall)
Killelton
recent years. (Baile na nGall) Ballyduff Camp Camp Killelton
Ballyduff
MOUNT BRANDON
(An Baile Dubh)
FEOHANAGH MOUNT BRANDON (An Baile Dubh)
FEOHANAGH
S l i e v e M i s h M o u n t a i
Mountain s lly
(An Fheothanach)
Beenoskee
Baurtregaum
(An Fheothanach) Ballybrack Beenoskee Glanteenassig Baurtregaum
Glanteenassig
Ballybrack
827m827m
852m852m
Stradba
(An Baile Breac)
KERR
Smerwick
Smerwick (An Baile Breac) Stradbally KERR Y Y S l i e v e M i s h M o u n t a i n s n s
(Ard na Caithne)
(Ard na Caithne) Murreagh KILMALKEDAR Mountain s
Murreagh
KILMALKEDAR
(An Mhuiríoch)
Sybil Head
PASS OF CAHERCONREE
Sybil Head (An Mhuiríoch) CHURCH PASS OF CAHERCONREE
CHURCH
CONOR PASS
White Gate
BALLYFERRITER GALLARUS ORATORYORY CONOR PASS White Gate Boolteens
BALLYFERRITER
GALLARUS ORAT
Boolteens
(An Chonair)
(An Chonair)
Coumduffmore
(Baile an Fheirtéaraigh) Coumduffmore Fybagh Fybagh Roads Roads
(Baile an Fheirtéaraigh)
Castlemaine
Lisdargan
Lisdargan Aughils Aughils Keel Keel Castlemaine
(Lios Deargáin)
Clogher Head
Milltown
Clogher Head Milltown (Lios Deargáin)
ANASC
VENTRY
VENTRY (Baile an DINGLE ANASCAULAUL Inch Inch
(Baile an
DINGLE
Mhuilinn)
(Ceann Trá)
Castlemaine
(An Daingean)
Blasket Island Centre
Milltown
Blasket Island Centre (Ceann Trá) Mhuilinn) (An Daingean) Castlemaine Milltown
Harbour
DUNQUIN Caherbullig Lispole Lispole INCH POINT Harbour
DUNQUIN
INCH POINT
Caherbullig
(Lios Póil)
(Lios Póil)
(Cathair Boilg)
(Dun Chaoin)
(Dun Chaoin) (Cathair Boilg) Ventry Ventry Kilmurry
Kilmurry
Mount Eagle
(Cill Mhuire)
Mount Eagle Harbour Dingle Harbour (Cill Mhuire)
Harbour
Great Blasket Island
DUNBEG FORT
Dunmore
Great Blasket Island Dunmore 516m516m DUNBEG FORT Minard InchInch TulligTullig Killorglin
Dingle Harbour
Minard
Killorglin
(An Blascaod Mór)
Coumeenole Bay Coumeenole Bay (Fán) (Fán)
(An Blascaod Mór) HeadHead Fahan Fahan Bull’s Bull’s Point Point Knockaunaglashy
Knockaunaglashy
HeadHead
SLEA SLEA
D i n g l e B a
Tearaught Island
Tearaught Island HEAD HEAD
(Ceann Sléibhe)
(An Tiaracht) (Ceann Sléibhe) D i n g l e B a y y
(An Tiaracht)
Inishnabro
Inishnabro
(Inis na Bró)
(Inis na Bró)
Inishvickillane
Inishvickillane
(Inis Mhic Aoibhleáin)
(Inis Mhic Aoibhleáin) KEY
Drive route
ACTIVITIES
Savour delicious seafood chowder
Below A prehistoric beehive hut, or clochan, in the Fahan Group near
Dunbeg Iron Age Fort, overlooking Dingle Bay, see p66 in Dingle and finish off with a
gourmet Irish whiskey ice-cream
Stroll along a white sandy beach
at Ventry Bay and take a refreshing
dip in its clear waters
Walk among prehistoric homes
– the clochans, or beehive huts,
of Fahan
Take a ferry ride out to Great Blasket
Island and spend time exploring this
lovely, now-uninhabited island
Cross the Conor Pass, Ireland’s
highest, and enjoy splendid views
over the Brandon and Tralee bays
062-063_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 62 13/10/17 1:06 pm

DRIVE 4: The Dingle Peninsula 63

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

0 kilometres 5 Start/finish: Tralee to the Maharees
Peninsula.
0 miles 5
The Seven Hogs or
The Seven Hogs or
Magharee Islands
Magharee Islands Number of days: 2, allowing half a
day for a trip to Great Blasket Island.
Rough Rough Ardfert Ardfert
Scraggane
Scraggane Point Point Distance: 180 km (110 miles).
Bay Bay
Fahamore
Fahamore
Brandon
Brandon Road conditions: Roads are well
Point Point Chapeltown
Chapeltown
Towlaght paved and signposted but, in places,
Towlaght
Brandon
Brandon Kilfenora
Br andon
HeadHead Br andon Kilfenora narrow with some steep inclines.
Brandon
Brandon Lough Lough FenitFenit
(Cé Bhréanainn)
(Cé Bhréanainn) B ay B ay Gill Gill THE MAHAREES Spa Spa TRALEE When to go: April to October are the
TRALEE
THE MAHAREES
T r alee
PENINSULA
BRANDON
BRANDON PENINSULA T r alee Blennerville best months to explore the Dingle
Blennerville
Castlegregory
CREEK CREEK Stradbally Castlegregory B ay B ay Peninsula, when hedgerows and
Stradbally
Derrymore
Brandon Mountain
Ballyroe
Ballyroe Brandon Mountain Cloghane Killiney Killiney Aughacasla Derrymore fields glow with wild fuchsias and
Cloghane
953m953m
(Baile Reo) Tiduff Tiduff (An Clochán) Aughacasla
(Baile Reo)
(An Clochán)
(An Tigh Dubh)
Ballydavid
Ballydavid (An Tigh Dubh) montbretia. Many places close in
(Baile na nGall)
Killelton
(Baile na nGall) Ballyduff Camp Camp Killelton winter. In peak season, be sure to book
Ballyduff
MOUNT BRANDON
(An Baile Dubh)
FEOHANAGH
FEOHANAGH MOUNT BRANDON (An Baile Dubh) accommodation well in advance.
S l i e v e M i s h M o u n t a i
Mountain s lly
(An Fheothanach) Ballybrack Beenoskee Glanteenassig Baurtregaum
(An Fheothanach)
Beenoskee
Baurtregaum
Glanteenassig
Ballybrack
852m852m
827m827m
Stradba
(An Baile Breac)
KERR
Smerwick
Smerwick (An Baile Breac) Stradbally KERR Y Y S l i e v e M i s h M o u n t a i n s n s Opening times: Most shops and
(Ard na Caithne)
Murreagh
(Ard na Caithne) Murreagh KILMALKEDAR Mountain s attractions open from 9 or 10am to 5
KILMALKEDAR
(An Mhuiríoch)
PASS OF CAHERCONREE
Sybil Head
Sybil Head (An Mhuiríoch) CHURCH PASS OF CAHERCONREE or 6pm. Shops are usually open Mon–
CHURCH
CONOR PASS
White Gate
BALLYFERRITER
BALLYFERRITER GALLARUS ORATORYORY CONOR PASS White Gate Boolteens Sat and from 12 to 6pm on Sun. In
Boolteens
GALLARUS ORAT
(An Chonair)
(An Chonair)
Coumduffmore
(Baile an Fheirtéaraigh)
(Baile an Fheirtéaraigh) Coumduffmore Fybagh Fybagh Roads Roads most villages there are convenience
Castlemaine
Lisdargan
Lisdargan Aughils Aughils Keel Keel Castlemaine stores, open from 7 or 8am until late.
(Lios Deargáin)
Clogher Head
Milltown
Clogher Head Milltown (Lios Deargáin)
ANASC
VENTRY (Baile an DINGLE ANASCAULAUL Inch Inch Main market days: Tralee: Sat;
VENTRY
(Baile an
DINGLE
(Ceann Trá)
Mhuilinn)
Castlemaine
(An Daingean)
Blasket Island Centre
Milltown
Blasket Island Centre (Ceann Trá) Mhuilinn) (An Daingean) Castlemaine Milltown Dingle: Fri.
Harbour
DUNQUIN
INCH POINT
DUNQUIN Caherbullig Lispole Lispole INCH POINT Harbour
Caherbullig
(Lios Póil)
(Lios Póil)
(Dun Chaoin)
(Dun Chaoin) (Cathair Boilg) Ventry Ventry Kilmurry Shopping: Dingle has delightful little
(Cathair Boilg)
Kilmurry
Mount Eagle
Mount Eagle Harbour Dingle Harbour (Cill Mhuire) shops selling lovely artisan jewellery,
(Cill Mhuire)
Harbour
DUNBEG FORT
Dunmore
Great Blasket Island
Great Blasket Island Dunmore 516m516m DUNBEG FORT Minard InchInch TulligTullig Killorglin crystalware, pottery and other crafts.
Dingle Harbour
Minard
Killorglin
(An Blascaod Mór)
(An Blascaod Mór) HeadHead Fahan Fahan Bull’s Bull’s Point Point Knockaunaglashy Traditional Blasket Islands weaving
Coumeenole Bay Coumeenole Bay (Fán) (Fán) can be seen, and items bought, on
Knockaunaglashy
HeadHead
SLEA SLEA
D i n g l e B a
Tearaught Island
Tearaught Island HEAD HEAD
(Ceann Sléibhe)
(An Tiaracht)
(An Tiaracht) (Ceann Sléibhe) D i n g l e B a y y Great Blasket in summer, or articles
woven on the islands can be bought
Inishnabro
Inishnabro in Dingle year-round.
(Inis na Bró)
(Inis na Bró)
Major festivals: Tralee: Rose of Tralee
Inishvickillane
Inishvickillane
(Inis Mhic Aoibhleáin) Festival, Aug; Dingle: Regatta, Aug;
(Inis Mhic Aoibhleáin)
Dingle Races, Aug; International Film
Festival, Mar; Food and Wine Festival,
Oct; Other Voices Festival, Nov.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Families might enjoy a day of water-
based activities, starting with an early
morning dolphin-swim at Dingle, then
kayaking or windsurfing at Ventry or
Sandy Bay and bodyboarding at
Coumeenole Bay. A visit to the Blasket
Islands Centre in Dunquin, followed by
a trip out to Great Blasket, will appeal to
history enthusiasts, and movie-lovers
may spot locations used in the David
Above Vivid orange swathes of montbretia flowers lining the quiet country roads of the Lean film Ryan’s Daughter. For full
Dingle Peninsula details, see p69.
062-063_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 63 11/09/17 11:38 am

64 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Tralee 3 Inch Point
Co Kerry Co Kerry
Tralee (Trá Lí) is the administrative The setting for much of David Lean’s
capital of County Kerry. A busy market 1970 movie Ryan’s Daughter, Inch
town, it is probably best known for (Inse) Point is a splendid sand and
the international pageant, the Rose of dune spit that curves out into Dingle
Tralee, celebrating Irish womanhood, Bay – popular for water sports and
which takes place here each August. swimming. When the tide is out, it is
Though the town is principally the perfect place for a bracing walk
19th-century in character, there are along its 6-km (4-mile) strand. Look
some fine Georgian buildings. For a out for sea otters, seals and dolphins
pleasant family outing, visit the Tralee in the bay. There are splendid views
Above Steam train that once ran Bay Wetland Centre, which offers an across the bay to the Macgillycuddy
from Tralee Activity Zone (with canoeing and Reeks, the highest mountain range in
cycle paths) and a Nature Zone (with Ireland (see p57).
viewing towers and safari tours). ª From Inch Point continue west on
VISITING DINGLE ª From Tralee take the N86 along the the R561 signed for Anascaul. Soon
northern flank of the peninsula. Cross after leaving Inch, look out for a lay-
Parking the stone bridge by the Blennerville by from which there are great views
There is a pay-and-display car park on
the waterfront, adjacent to the pier. Windmill, follow the undulating road of Dingle Bay. Further along, there
and fork left after Camp. On reaching will be a T-junction. Turn
Tourist Information a farm building, head up the narrow right here onto the N86
Strand Street; 066 915 1188;
www.dingle-peninsula.ie; open road to its left. At the next junction for Anascaul.
Mon–Sat turn left, which leads over the
Pass of Caherconree. 4 Anascaul
Co Kerry
2 Pass of Caherconree In Anascaul is a pub called
WHERE TO STAY Co Kerry the South Pole Inn. Its former
This is a little-known pass owner was Tom Crean, a
AROUND TRALEE through the Slieve Mish member of both Scott’s and
Camp Junction inexpensive Mountains to the southern South Pole Inn Shackleton’s expeditions to
This B&B, 5 minutes’ walk from the flank of the peninsula. Near pub sign the Antarctic, known to locals
beach, has six ensuite bedrooms and the summit of the pass is a as “Tom the Pole”. The pub is
two apartments. Rooms at the front sign for the Caherconree Iron Age full of memorabilia, as well as photo-
overlook Tralee Bay; those at the back
have views of the Slieve Mish mountains. Fort. It’s worth a scramble up a graphs of visiting dignitaries. There is
Camp; 066 713 0848; boggy path to see it on a fine day. a Memorial Garden, with a bronze
www.campjunctionhouse.com At the brow of the pass there are statue of Crean holding the sled dog
fantastic views over Castlemaine puppies of which he was so fond.
INCH POINT Harbour to the south. ª Return to the main road and turn
Inch Beach Guest House inexpensive ª Descend into Aughils and turn right, following the N86 to Dingle.
Smart B&B in a lovely scenic location
only 3 minutes from Inch Beach, with right on the R561 for Inch. Park in waterfront car park by pier.
spectacular views across the bay.
Inch Beach, Dingle; 066 915 8118; Below Fishing boats moored in front of St Mary’s Church in Dingle’s pretty harbour, seen from the bay
www.inchbeachguesthouse.com
DINGLE (AN DAINGEAN)
The Hide Out Hostel inexpensive
Located in the heart of Dingle, this
friendly, well-run hostel caters for the
independent traveller and for families.
There is a mix of private and dormitory
rooms. Michael, the owner, is a fount
of wisdom on the whole area.
Dykegate St; 066 915 0559
Ballintaggart Manor House
moderate
Affording beautiful views across the
harbour, Ballintaggart House is an
ideal base from which to explore the
peninsula. This family-run manor
house manages to combine boutique
hotel style with homely charm.
Race Course Road; 066 915 1333;
www.ballintaggarthouse.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


064-069_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 64 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 4: The Dingle Peninsula 65


5 Dingle (An Daingean)
Co Kerry
Dingle, the westernmost town in Europe, is located in the heart
of a Gaeltacht – an Irish-speaking area (see p178). Though hardly
undiscovered, it is nonetheless a gem. Probably just as popular with
tourists as Killarney, it never seems overrun, and many visitors are
seduced as much by its charm as by its “star” – the friendly dolphin,
Fungie, who lives in the harbour. The town’s characteristic features
are brightly painted houses, traditional shop fronts and tightly
bunched, narrow streets, all of which run down to the harbour.
Good restaurants and traditional pubs tempt visitors to linger.
Above Colourful frontage of Dick Mack’s
A one-hour walking tour which has a cosy dining area around combined pub and hardware store
From the car park, turn right a turf fire. Turn right into
along Quay Street, with the Lower Main St, past
harbour on your right. The Ashes pub 5, where the EAT AND DRINK
Tourist Office and Visitor seafood chowder enjoys
Centre 1 is at the foot of considerable renown. Turn INCH POINT
the pier. Continue into right again down Dykegate Sammy’s inexpensive
Strand Street and up the hill Lane, looking for An Café A popular seafront restaurant, which
into Green Street, lined with Liteartha 6 on the left, a looks out across Inch Beach. Casual
shops, restaurants, pubs and café-bookshop specializing dining with steak and chips the pick.
cafés. On the left is St Mary’s Live music sign in books of local interest. Inch Beach; 066 915 8118;
www.sammysinchbeach.com
Church 2, and in its written in Irish Continuing further on, turn
grounds is the Diseart left into Bridge Street for ANASCAUL
Cultural Centre, housed in an old O’Flaherty’s Pub 7. Here, a lively The South Pole Inn inexpensive
convent. Here in the chapel there musical session usually commences This historic, family-run pub serves
are 12 stained-glass windows by the when the landlord picks up his excellent home-cooked food.
Main Street; 066 915 7388
celebrated stained-glass artist Harry accordion. Retrace your steps and
Clarke. Opposite is the famous pub turn left into Strand Street to return DINGLE (AN DAINGEAN)
Dick Mack’s 3, which doubles up to the car park. Stop in at the John Benny Moriarty’s Pub
as a hardware store. Only a few of turquoise building on the left for inexpensive
these store-cum-pubs now remain at least one scoop of Murphy’s 8 A traditional Irish music pub, serving
in Dingle. At the top of Green Street delicious, award-winning ice cream. good food in a friendly atmosphere.
Strand Street; 066 915 1215;
you come to Main Street, with its ª Leave Dingle with the harbour on www.johnbennyspub.com
many traditional pubs and your left and follow signs for Ventry,
restaurants. To the right on Main St is heading due west on the R559, to the The Wren’s Nest inexpensive
Sweet little independent cafe in a lovely
Lord Baker’s Restaurant 4 (see right), start of the drive around Slea Head. spot serving super cakes.
Dykegate Lane; 086 177 3119
0 metres 250 Ashes Bar and Restaurant moderate
Ashes is famed for its seafood chowder,
0 yards 250 but it also serves hearty meat dishes.
Lower Main Street; 066 915 0989;
www.ashesbar.ie
UPPER MAIN ST
Lord Baker’s S P A R O A D Grey’s Lane Bistro moderate
Restaurant
G R E E N S T R E E T Mack’s D Y K E G A T E L A N E An Café an exciting menu in this modern,
St Mary’s Church MAIN S T RE E T Ashes Pub Seafood forms the mainstay of
Dick
family-run bistro.
Grey’s Lane; 066 915 2770; www.
Town
greyslanebistro.com; closed Sun
Murphy’s HOLY GROUND Park T H E M A L L Liteartha J O H N S T R E E T Lord Baker’s Restaurant moderate
This well-known Dingle venue serves
S TRAND S T
QUA Y S T R E E T mainly seafood – lobster often features.
O‘Flaherty’s Pub
Main Street; 066 915 1277
Tourist
T H E T R A C K S
Office Global Village expensive
Outstanding seafood restaurant
offering one of the best dining
experiences in town.
Upper Main Street; 066 915 2325;
www.globalvillagedingle.com;
B R I D G E S T R E E T
open Mar–mid-Nov
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50
064-069_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 65 11/09/17 12:29 pm

66 BACK ROADS IRELAND


6 Ventry (Ceann Trá) still in good watertight condition.
Co Kerry Some are on private land, and farmers
Cushioned up against the slopes may charge a small fee to view them.
of Mount Eagle, Ventry perches ª Continue west on the R559 to Slea
alongside a wonderful crescent of Head and round into Coumeenole
white sandy beach, backed by sand Bay. This is an exhilarating stretch of
dunes and hills. Here, upturned cliff-hugging road, high above Dingle
currachs (traditional Irish fishing Bay. On the right, the western flanks
boats of black-tarred canvas) are a of Mount Eagle slope down to the sea,
common sight. The beach, one of on the left you can see the Blaskets.
the safest in the region, is popular
with water sports enthusiasts and The Blasket Islands
is ideal for swimming. On hot Once the most westerly settlement
summer days, the pier at Ventry in Europe, Great Blasket was finally
is also a popular swimming spot. abandoned in 1953, when its
ª Continue along the R559 to dwindling population could no
Dunbeg Fort. longer be sustained. Nevertheless,
the Blasket Islands remain, for many
Irish people, a potent symbol of an
7 Dunbeg Fort ancient Irish-speaking culture.
Fahan, Co Kerry Three books by islanders recount a
Just beyond Ventry, on a promontory lost way of life: Muiris O’Suilleabhan’s
looking out across Dingle Bay, is the Twenty Years a’Growing; Peig Sayer’s
Iron Age fort of Dunbeg. Surrounded A Woman’s Reflections; and Tomas
O’Criomhthain’s The Island Man.
Above Rocky headland overlooking Dingle by sea on three sides, this fortress has English translations retain much
Bay, site of the Iron-Age fort of Dunbeg walls 7 m (23 ft) thick, surrounded by of the local flavour and evocative
earthen trenches. Though much of phrasing of the original Irish.
the original construction has long
VISITING THE BLASKETS since tumbled into the sea, including
a large section of the western wall 8 Slea Head (Ceann Sléibhe)
Blasket Island Ferries cross from
Dunquin Harbour roughly every half during the ferocious storms of 2014, Co Kerry
hour from 10am to dusk Easter-end Sep. it is still an imposing sight. Opposite Offering exhilarating views across
066 915 6422; www.blasketislands.ie is the Visitor Centre (open Mar–Nov: Dingle Bay and over to Great Blasket
daily), where there is a car park. Island, Slea Head is the western most
A little further along the R559 is point in Europe, and the focal point
the first set of clochans, or beehive of the Dingle drive. The sweep of
huts, with the Fahan Group a short sea, craggy coves and outlying
walk or drive away (there is ample islands that come into view as you
parking at the site). It is estimated round the headland is a spectacular
there are up to 400 of these huts on sight. The dramatic confluence of
the southern slopes of Mount Eagle. sea and land can be appreciated
Many of these pre historic dwellings, from the viewing point – a much
WHERE TO STAY AROUND constructed in unmortared stone, are photographed scene. A short
VENTRY (CEANN TRÁ)
Below Road curving down from Dunmore Head, with views over Blasket Sound to the Blaskets
Moriarty’s Farmhouse inexpensive
This friendly guesthouse is set on a
working farm in an idyllic location near
Ventry. Its six ensuite rooms have
stunning views across Ventry Harbour.
Owners Ted and Brid Moriarty are
experts on the history of the region.
Rahanane (1 km/2 miles from Ventry at
the start of the Slea Head Drive); 066 915
9037; www.dinglevacation.com
Milltown House moderate
Robert Mitchum stayed in this award-
winning period guesthouse during
the filming of Ryan’s Daughter. The 10
rooms are furnished to a high standard.
Ventry Road, Milltown (at the start of
the Slea Head Drive between Dingle
and Ventry); 066 915 1372;
www.milltownhouse.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


064-069_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 66 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
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DRIVE 4: The Dingle Peninsula 67


distance further on, the road sweeps
around to Coumeenoole Bay (Trá an
Choma) popular with surfers and
bathers. The bay has an organized
picnic area which affords breath-
taking vistas across the bay. Behind
the picnic area is a stone stile. On
the other side of it is a grassy path
leading out to Dunmore Head,
which overlooks the Blasket Sound.
ª Stay on the R559, which now
begins to turn north as it rounds the
peninsula’s headland and heads
slightly inland for Dunquin.
Above The simple but stunning early
0 Ballyferriter (Baile an Christian Gallarus Oratory, whose dry-stone
Fheirtéaraigh) walls have survived 1,300 years
Slea Head, Co Kerry
In the middle of Ballyferriter is
O’Cathain’s pub, a good lunch and
music stop. On the first Wednesday
of each month traditional Sean-nós
sessions take place here, at which
singers perform unaccompanied by
any musical instruments. At the end
of the village, on the left, is the West
Kerry Museum (open mid-Jun–Sep:
daily), dedicated to the peninsula’s
Above Looking across Smerwick Harbour archaeology. The area between
between Ballyferriter and Ballydavid Ballyferriter and Ballydavid (Baile na
nGall) has retained its traditional way
9 Dunquin (Dun Chaoin) of life. Here, and in the villages
Slea Head, Co Kerry around Smerwick Harbour, Gaelige
Dunquin is famous as the setting (Irish) is spoken.
for David Lean’s epic 1970 drama ª Continue on the R559 which turns
Ryan’s Daughter. While the film was sharply left after the Smerwick Hotel.
not a critical success upon release – Further along, turn right at the EAT AND DRINK
though acclaimed today – the signpost for Gallarus Oratory.
breathtaking scenery certainly did VENTRY (CEANN TRÁ)
wonders for regional tourism. q Gallarus Oratory Skipper Restaurant inexpensive
Dunquin was also the place where Slea Head, Co Kerry This atmospheric restaurant offers
the Blasket Islanders came ashore to Often compared to an upturned French food at affordable prices. The
emphasis is on seafood.
trade or buy provisions, which is why boat in appearance, the Gallarus Ventry; 066 915 9853;
it has a certain historical resonance Oratory is one of the best-preserved www.theskipperventry.com
with local people. Some still speak of early Christian churches in Ireland.
the crossing from Dunquin to the Just as impressive are the dry-stone DUNBEG FORT
Blaskets as the “authentic one” – the corbelling techniques that meant Stone House Restaurant inexpensive
one from Dingle to Great Blasket it has been able to withstand the Husband-and-wife team Paul and
Deirdre run this lovely family restaurant
actually takes longer. In Dunquin, elements for nearly 1,300 years. There located opposite Dunbeg Fort. Try
the Blasket Islands Centre (open is a Visitor Centre (open Easter–Oct: some steamed mussels in lemongrass
Easter–Oct: daily) has exhibitions and daily) with a café and an audiovisual or Dingle Bay scampi.
audiovisual displays that show life as exhibition. The centre also provides Fahan, Ventry; 066 915 9970;
www.stonehouseventry.com
it was once lived on the Blaskets. information on Kilmalkedar Church
Here also is Kruger’s pub, a popular (see p68), the other important early BALLYFERRITER
landmark, and the last pub this side Christian site in the area. Tigh Uí Chathain moderate
of the Atlantic. From the bar can be ª Leaving the Oratory, retrace your A restaurant brimful of local character,
seen the island known as Skellig steps to the R559 and turn right in the this offers excellent value for money.
Michael (see p57) in the distance. direction of Murreagh (An Mhuirioch). With some of the best produce in
Ireland on their doorstep, they cook
ª Follow the R559 north, then east, From here, turn sharp right, signed simply, seasonally, and extremely well.
towards Ballyferriter. for Kilmalkedar Church. Ballyferriter; 066 915 6359
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


064-069_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 67 11/09/17 12:29 pm

68 BACK ROADS IRELAND

WHERE TO STAY
w Kilmalkedar Church views across Smerwick Harbour and
FEOHANAGH (AN FEOTHANACH) Slea Head, Co Kerry the ragged headland of Ballydavid.
An Riasc Guest House moderate This early Christian and medieval site Below you is Dooneen pier, which is
This charming stone farmhouse is is spread over 4 ha (10 acres) and is accessible on foot. There you may
located just outside Feohanagh, amid associated with St Brendan. At the see the remains of old currachs,
breathtaking scenery. Denise, the centre is the 12th-century Kilmalkedar once the main fishing vessels here.
owner, places a strong emphasis on Church, an excellent example of Irish Though they are still built on the
using fresh and local produce. Short Romanesque style. Near the chancel peninsula, their use has declined.
courses in Irish available as well as
cooking demos and walking tours. door is an early Christian Alphabet ª Just past Feohanagh turn sharp
Evening meals available on request. Stone, and there are several ancient left and take the minor road signed
Feohanagh; 066 915 5446; crosses here, as well as an Ogham to Ballyroe and Tiduff.
www.anriasc.ie Stone (marked with ancient script).
AROUND CONOR PASS The Pilgrim’s Way walk to the top of
(AN CHONAIR) Mount Brandon starts behind the
O’Connor’s Guesthouse inexpensive church. Even a short 20-minute
In a stunning location at the foot of stretch of the walk is rewarded with
Mount Brandon, overlooking Brandon fine views across Smerwick Harbour.
Bay, this family-run guesthouse in the ª Return on R559 towards Murreagh.
village of Cloghane is popular with Before the village is a school house.
walkers. It has nine bedrooms,
including family rooms. Breakfast, Turn right here but, if the turning is
evening meals and packed lunches are missed there is another right turn onto
available, as well as a pint in the bar. the R549 in Murreagh itself. Either
Cloghane (turn left on R585 as you road will take you into Feohanagh.
descend the Conor Pass); 066 713 8113;
www.cloghane.com
Local Flavours
THE MAHAREES PENINSULA In the last decade or so a culinary Above Steep-sided cliff walls form a sheltering
Tigh Beagh moderate renaissance has taken place on the harbour at lovely Brandon Creek
This compact, beautifully restored Dingle Peninsula. Some of the local
farmhouse – the “small house” – is set delicacies worth sampling are r Brandon Creek
in 17 acres of native woodland, and Blasket Island lamb, highly regarded
comes with its own mountain river for its fine flavour; black (blood) and Slea head, Co Kerry
and waterfall. It should appeal to those white pudding made in Anascaul; Brandon Creek is believed to be the
seeking peace and solitude. The house award-winning Dingle Peninsula spot from which St Brendan the
is fully equipped with all mod cons seaweed-flavoured cheese from Navigator set out on his epic voyage
and has a geothermally heated tiled Castlegregory; Dingle’s smoked fish to Newfoundland in the 6th century.
floor, as well as a wood-burning stove. and Murphy’s ice cream (see p65).
Two large bedrooms. His journey is recounted in Navigato
Glanteenassig, Castlegregory (take Brendan, the earliest copies of which,
R560 from Castlegregory and right in Latin and dating from the 11th
turn uphill to Glanteenassig); 087 779 e Feohanagh century, were once housed in
3126; www.tighbeag.com
(An Feothanach) medieval libraries across Europe.
Slea Head, Co Kerry It is not advisable to drive down to
Below Ancient crosses near the Irish As you arrive in Feohanagh, pull into the pier at Brandon Creek. Leave the
Romanesque Kilmalkedar Church the car park to admire stupendous car in the small parking area above,
and walk the short distance. At the
end of the pier is a rock within which
is a large crevice. This creates an air
pocket that, depending on the roll of
the tide, makes a booming sound
when trapped air is released.
Brandon Creek nestles in the
shadows of imposing Mount
Brandon, the second-highest
mountain in Ireland and one of
the country’s holiest places.
ª From Brandon Creek, drive due
south on a minor road which
eventually joins the main R549 road
back towards Dingle. Just before it
joins the main road there is a sign
pointing left for Mount Brandon car
park. Take this narrow road.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


064-069_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 68 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 4: The Dingle Peninsula 69


t Mount Brandon
Co Kerry
According to legend St Brendan
climbed to the top of this mountain
to view the Americas before starting
out on his voyage. Near the Mount
Brandon car park, a gateway, a grotto
and a stream mark the starting point
for the annual pilgrimage to the
summit, which takes place on the
nearest Sunday to 29 June. On this
day a special mass is celebrated on
top of the mountain. A well-trodden
path, punctuated by the Stations of
the Cross, winds its way to the
summit. It’s well worth walking as
least as far as the early markers for
panoramic views of Dingle Harbour. Above Road leading to Brandon Creek, in the
ª Return to the R549, turn left and u The Maharees Peninsula shadow of Mount Brandon
follow the road back to Dingle. On Co Kerry
leaving Dingle, turn first left at the Castlegregory is the gateway to the
first roundabout for the Conor Pass. Maharees Peninsula, a sandy spit that
divides Brandon and Tralee bays. It is
y Conor Pass (An Chonair) a pretty village with narrow streets EAT AND DRINK
Co Kerry and gaily coloured little houses. The AROUND FEOHANAGH (AN
Ireland’s highest route, the Conor Maharees itself has mile upon mile of FEOTHANACH)
Pass road rises quickly, winding its sandy beaches, and is one of Ireland’s
way to the summit at 460 m (1,500 main water sports centres. Bird- Gorman’s Clifftop House and
Restaurant moderate
ft). On a clear day there is a view watchers may want to stop at Lough A top-notch restaurant with an
of some of the most spectacular Gill, outside Castlegregory, which is emphasis on local produce, organic
scenery in Ireland, with a panorama famed for the variety of bird species. when possible, and robust Irish
of mountains, sea, lakes and boulder- From Castlegregory, follow the main cooking. The owners are very
strewn valleys. The whole of Ireland road along the central spine of the spit knowledgeable about the local area.
Glashabeg (just outside Feohanagh);
seems to be laid out below. To to the village of Fahamore. This is one 066 915 5162; www.gormans-
the south is Dingle Bay, while of the few places in which currachs are clifftophouse.com
to the north are sweeping views over still made. Carry on to Scraggane Bay,
the Maharees Peninsula to Tralee Bay at the tip of the peninsula. It is popular THE MAHAREES PENINSULA
(on the right), and across Brandon with windsurfers, and its harbour is Spillane’s moderate
Run by Marilyn and Michael Spillane,
Bay to Brandon Point (to the left). home to a small fishing fleet. From this popular bar and restaurant is one
ª From the summit, the road winds the pier there are views across to the of the landmark eating houses on the
down between Brandon and Stradbally Magharee Islands, known as the Seven Maharees Peninsula. It has a wide-
mountains to the coast. It is narrow in Hogs. On the largest, lllauntannig, ranging menu, designed to suit all
places, so exercise caution, especially there are three stone huts and two tastes. Specials usually include two
meat and two fish dishes. Also offers
in poor weather. At Stradbally, turn oratories, the remnants of an early self-catering accommodation.
left onto a minor road towards Killiney Christian monastery. Occasionally, local Fahamore; 066 713 9125;
and go on from there to Castlegregory. fishermen will ferry people across. www.spillanesbar.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Fungie the dolphin, then head out to Irish history
This drive never strays far from the Ventry 6 and try windsurfing or With Dunquin 9 as the base, first
sea or from history, so make the kayaking on the Blue Flag beach. visit the Blasket Islands Centre to
most of both. One day trip links up After lunch, join the surfers at learn about the unique history of the
a range of water-based activities, Coumeenoole Bay 8 and stay on Islands, then take the boat to Great
while, for those caught up in the for a fabulous sunset view over the Blasket to explore this lonely place.
romance of Irish history and culture, Blasket Islands. On returning, head to Ballyferriter 0
there’s a chance to step back in time. for a lively pub music session. Movie
Follow the itinerary from Dingle to
Watery wonders Ventry. From Ventry, take the coastal fans will feel they have stepped right
into Ryan’s Daughter.
Start the day in Dingle 5 with a R559 to Coumeenoole, and use the
boat trip or swimming safari to see same road to return to Dingle. Follow the drive instructions.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


064-069_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 69 11/09/17 12:29 pm

BR_IR_070-071_Opener5.indd 70 23/10/09 14:23:28
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

DRIVE 5



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Viking

Country

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Highlights
• Viking city
See Waterford glass being made
and walk in the footsteps of the
Vikings in Waterford City
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Tackle the exhilarating Vee, a
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72 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Viking Country

The large county of Waterford in southeast Ireland has fine stretches of
coastline, gently indented with small coves, the big strand and holiday
resort of Tramore, the beautiful Copper Coast beyond, and the stirring
seascapes of Helvick Head. At the eastern end of the county is Waterford
City, founded by the Vikings in the 10th century. Inland are the pretty
towns of Lismore and Cappoquin in the languid Blackwater Valley. Two
wild mountain ranges stretch north to the borders of Tipperary – the
Knockmealdown Mountains, with their dramatic high passes,
and the Comeragh Mountains, accessed along the
beautiful Nire Valley Drive.
BallyneilBallyneil
KilsheelanKilsheelan GreggGregg
ClonmelClonmel Carrick-on-SuirCarrick-on-Suir PilltownPilltown BarrabehyBarrabehy
MarlfieldMarlfield
CarrickbegCarrickbeg
KnockloftyKnocklofty KILKENNYKILKENNY FahyFahy
CrehanaghCrehanagh DanganDangan
BallyloobyBallylooby Suir Suir CaherbaunCaherbaun KnockalafallaKnockalafalla FiddownFiddown
Ardfinnan KilmanahanKilmanahan BallyquinBallyquin GrangeGrange UllidUllid
Ardfinnan
Punchbowl
RussellstownRussellstown CurraghkietyCurraghkiety
TIPPERAR YTIPPERAR Y Punchbowl RathgormuckRathgormuck MothelMothel MoocomMoocom KilnacowKilnacow Gauls MillGauls Mill
GormanstownGormanstown BallydonaghBallydonagh Comeragh Mts PortlawPortlaw RathkieranRathkieran DunkittDunkitt
NIRE VA LLE Y DRIVE
BallyboyBallyboy BallyveeraBallyveera KnockanaffrinKnockanaffrin
Castle GraceCastle Grace ClogheenClogheen NIRE VA LLE Y DRIVE 755m755m CloneaClonea Suir Suir
CLOGHEENCLOGHEEN BohernagoreBohernagore TarTar AglishAglish
GoatsGoats BallygoreyBallygorey BellfieldBellfield
Comeragh Mts
BallyporeenBallyporeen BridgeBridge NewcastleNewcastle BALLYMACARBRYBALLYMACARBRY
M o n a v u l l a g
The VeeThe Vee LicketstownLicketstown WATERFORD CITYWATERFORD CITY
M o u n t a i n s s
M o u n t a i n
Sugarloaf MountainSugarloaf Mountain BallydurnBallydurn KilmeadanKilmeadan
716m716m
K n o c k m e a l d o w n
K n o c k m e a l d o w n M t s M t s M o n a v u l l a g h h KildermodyKildermody FairbrookFairbrook KilbarryKilbarry
KnockaunapeebraKnockaunapeebra
The GapThe Gap KnockmealdownKnockmealdown 792m792m NewtownNewtown BallyduffBallyduff AdamstownAdamstown
795m795m FewsFews
BromountainBromountain BallynamultBallynamult KealfounKealfoun KnockderryKnockderry ShinganaghShinganagh
KnockanacullinKnockanacullin KilmacthomasKilmacthomas ReservoirReservoir
TooraneenaTooraneena FurraleighFurraleigh RathannyRathanny BallycraddockBallycraddock
MOUNTMOUNT KilbrianKilbrian Mahon BallynacloghBallynaclogh
MELLERAYMELLERAY
Mahon
LyrattinLyrattin KilrossantyKilrossanty
FeagarridFeagarrid BallykillBallykill Kill Kill DunhillDunhill KilmacleagueKilmacleague
BallylaneenBallylaneen
GlenshelaneGlenshelane W A TERFORDW A TERFORD FenorFenor TRAMORETRAMORE BackBack
MillstreetMillstreet StrandStrand
CAPPOQUINCAPPOQUIN ModelligoModelligo KnockroeKnockroe BUNMAHONBUNMAHON KnockmahonKnockmahon TramoreTramore
Blackwater
Blackwater LISMORELISMORE ANNESTOWNANNESTOWN BayBay
Finisk Finisk DeelishDeelish StradballyStradbally BayBay BayBay Newtown HeadNewtown Head
GlencairnGlencairn ShanballyShanbally BunmahonBunmahon DunabrattinDunabrattin GreatGreat
BallyknockBallyknock
BallyvoyleBallyvoyle
WhitechurchWhitechurch Collingan
GarrynageraghGarrynageragh Celtic SeaCeltic Sea
Collingan
BallinaspickBallinaspick KnocknaskaghKnocknaskagh
Bride
Bride BallyduffBallyduff
ClonmelClonmel
BayBay
ACTIVITIES VillierstownVillierstown DUNGARVANDUNGARVAN BallynacourtyBallynacourty
DungarvanDungarvan
Experience a Waterford pub that AglishAglish NewtownNewtown HarbourHarbour
BallynagaulBallynagaul
bottles its own whiskey (Baile na nGall)(Baile na nGall) HELVICKHELVICK
MonaculleeMonacullee HEADHEAD
Body surf in huge Atlantic rollers GorteenGorteen RingRing
on Tramore’s long sandy beach (An Rinn)(An Rinn)
0 kilometres 5
Visit the Anglo-Norman castle on 0 miles 5
Dungarvan’s quayside
Stroll through the riverside
gardens of Cappoquin House
KEY
Enjoy afternoon tea in the peaceful Drive route
setting of Mount Melleray Abbey
072-073_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 72 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 5: Viking Country 73


Left The Anglo-Norman fortress of
Dungarvan Castle, see p76





PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Waterford to
Ballymacarbry.
Number of days: 3.
BallyneilBallyneil
KilsheelanKilsheelan GreggGregg Distance: 175 km (109 miles).
ClonmelClonmel Carrick-on-SuirCarrick-on-Suir PilltownPilltown BarrabehyBarrabehy
MarlfieldMarlfield Road conditions: Generally well
CarrickbegCarrickbeg
KnockloftyKnocklofty KILKENNYKILKENNY FahyFahy paved and well signposted. Steep
CrehanaghCrehanagh DanganDangan inclines and hairpin bends through
BallyloobyBallylooby Suir Suir CaherbaunCaherbaun KnockalafallaKnockalafalla FiddownFiddown the Knockmealdown Mountains.
Ardfinnan KilmanahanKilmanahan BallyquinBallyquin GrangeGrange UllidUllid
Ardfinnan
Punchbowl
RussellstownRussellstown CurraghkietyCurraghkiety
TIPPERAR YTIPPERAR Y Punchbowl RathgormuckRathgormuck MothelMothel MoocomMoocom KilnacowKilnacow Gauls MillGauls Mill When to go: Spring and summer are
warm, autumn is bright and colourful,
NIRE VA LLE Y DRIVE
GormanstownGormanstown BallydonaghBallydonagh Comeragh Mts PortlawPortlaw RathkieranRathkieran DunkittDunkitt
BallyboyBallyboy BallyveeraBallyveera KnockanaffrinKnockanaffrin winter is mild. Southeast Ireland is
Castle GraceCastle Grace ClogheenClogheen NIRE VA LLE Y DRIVE 755m755m CloneaClonea Suir Suir sunnier than other regions.
CLOGHEENCLOGHEEN BohernagoreBohernagore TarTar AglishAglish
GoatsGoats BallygoreyBallygorey BellfieldBellfield Opening times: Most shops and
Comeragh Mts
BallyporeenBallyporeen BridgeBridge NewcastleNewcastle BALLYMACARBRYBALLYMACARBRY
M o n a v u l l a g
The VeeThe Vee LicketstownLicketstown WATERFORD CITYWATERFORD CITY attractions open from 9 or 10am to
M o u n t a i n s s
M o u n t a i n
Sugarloaf MountainSugarloaf Mountain BallydurnBallydurn KilmeadanKilmeadan 5 or 6pm. In towns shops stay open
716m716m
K n o c k m e a l d o w n
K n o c k m e a l d o w n M t s M t s M o n a v u l l a g h h KildermodyKildermody FairbrookFairbrook KilbarryKilbarry late on Thu and 12–6pm on Sun.
KnockaunapeebraKnockaunapeebra
The GapThe Gap KnockmealdownKnockmealdown 792m792m NewtownNewtown BallyduffBallyduff AdamstownAdamstown Main market days: Waterford City:
795m795m FewsFews
BromountainBromountain BallynamultBallynamult KealfounKealfoun KnockderryKnockderry ShinganaghShinganagh Sat; Dungarvan: Thu; Lismore: Sun
KnockanacullinKnockanacullin KilmacthomasKilmacthomas ReservoirReservoir (Jun–Sep).
TooraneenaTooraneena FurraleighFurraleigh RathannyRathanny BallycraddockBallycraddock
MOUNTMOUNT KilbrianKilbrian Mahon BallynacloghBallynaclogh Shopping: Waterford City is the main
MELLERAYMELLERAY shopping centre. World-famous hand-
Mahon
LyrattinLyrattin KilrossantyKilrossanty
FeagarridFeagarrid BallykillBallykill Kill Kill DunhillDunhill KilmacleagueKilmacleague cut Waterford Crystal can be bought at
BallylaneenBallylaneen shops and the visitor centre there.
GlenshelaneGlenshelane W A TERFORDW A TERFORD FenorFenor TRAMORETRAMORE BackBack
MillstreetMillstreet StrandStrand
CAPPOQUINCAPPOQUIN ModelligoModelligo KnockroeKnockroe BUNMAHONBUNMAHON KnockmahonKnockmahon TramoreTramore Major festivals: Waterford City:
Waterford New Music Week, Mar;
Blackwater
Blackwater LISMORELISMORE ANNESTOWNANNESTOWN BayBay Spraoi, Aug; Tramore: Horse Racing
Finisk Finisk DeelishDeelish StradballyStradbally BayBay BayBay Newtown HeadNewtown Head Festival, Aug; Dungarvan: Waterford
GlencairnGlencairn ShanballyShanbally BunmahonBunmahon DunabrattinDunabrattin GreatGreat
BallyknockBallyknock
BallyvoyleBallyvoyle Festival of Food, Apr; Lismore:
WhitechurchWhitechurch Collingan
GarrynageraghGarrynageragh Celtic SeaCeltic Sea Immrama Festival of Travel Writing, Jun.
Collingan
BallinaspickBallinaspick KnocknaskaghKnocknaskagh
Bride
Bride BallyduffBallyduff
ClonmelClonmel
DUNGARVANDUNGARVAN BayBay
VillierstownVillierstown BallynacourtyBallynacourty DAY TRIP OPTIONS
DungarvanDungarvan
AglishAglish NewtownNewtown HarbourHarbour
BallynagaulBallynagaul Explore the Copper Coast, which
MonaculleeMonacullee (Baile na nGall)(Baile na nGall) HELVICKHELVICK combines fine beaches and unusual
HEADHEAD
GorteenGorteen RingRing geology. For contrasting scenery visit
(An Rinn)(An Rinn) the idyllic towns of Cappoquin and
Lismore, with their stately homes
and riverside gardens, then take a
rollercoaster ride through the
Knockmealdown mountains. For full
details, see p77.
Left Yachts, fishing trawlers and pleasure craft
moored in Waterford marina, see p74
072-073_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 73 12/09/17 12:01 pm

74 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Waterford City
Co Waterford
The capital of County Waterford is a handsome cathedral city set on
the estuary of the River Suir. Founded by the Vikings in 914, by the
18th century it was southeast Ireland’s main port as well as a centre
for glass-making. The Mall, with its elegant Georgian buildings, is
testament to this period, while the old quays are now part of a
revitalized historic quarter.
A one-hour walking tour corpse crawling with worms, it is
Start at Reginald’s Tower 1 (open Jan- inscribed: “I am what you will be; I
mid-Mar: Wed-Sun; mid-Mar-Dec: daily). was what you are now”.
This squat 13th-century tower forms From the cathedral, go back down
the east corner of the Norse and Palace Lane, then turn right onto The
medieval city – a rough triangle of Mall. On the right is the Bishop’s
streets between The Mall, Garden Palace 5, an 18th-century building
Alley, Michael Street, Broad Street, housing the world’s largest collection
Barronstrand Street and the Quays. of historic Waterford glass. From here,
A stronghold of the Anglo-Norman turn right up Colbeck Street, then up
Above Reginald’s Tower, a 13th-century kings, the tower is said to be the first Henrietta Street, and finally left into
landmark on Waterford’s riverfront Irish building to use mortar, High Street and John
at the time a mixture of Roberts Square 6,
blood, lime, fur and mud. named after the architect
From the tower, turn whose influence is
right onto The Mall. everywhere in the city.
Here is the City Hall 2, One of his last works was
incorporating the Theatre the intimate Catholic
Royal, designed in 1788 Cathedral 7 (open daily)
by John Roberts, a local on Barronstrand Street,
man, and remodelled in the which has a rich Neo-
VISITING WATERFORD CITY Waterford city
19th century. Turn right on coat of arms Classical interior. From here,
Parking Palace Lane, leading into return to John Roberts Square
There is ample pay-and-display car Cathedral Square. On the and turn right into Great
parking along the quays beside the right, the 13th-century Chorister’s George’s Street. On the left, a palatial
River Suir. Hall 3 incorporates two medieval townhouse built in 1795 for the
Tourist Information buildings housing Waterford’s Morris family, also by Roberts, now
Waterford Discover Ireland Centre, Medieval Collection. To the left stands contains the Waterford Chamber of
Parade Quay; 051 875 823; www. the Protestant Christ Church Commerce 8. Head along O’Connell
discoverireland.ie (open Mon–Sat)
Cathedral 4 (open daily), also Street and left into Thomas Street to
Shopping designed by Roberts and built on Henry Downes 9, a famous pub (see
The Quays and their narrow side
streets contain a number of long- the site of a 12th-century church. Its right). Walk down to Merchants Quay
established shops, including Shaws medieval remnants include a crypt and along the river back to the start.
department store (The Quay; 051 872 containing the 1481 cadaver tomb ª Leaving the city, take the R675 to
977; www.shaws.ie) and Kelly’s (The of James Rice, a former mayor of Tramore. Park near the Lifeguard
Quay, 051 873 557), selling Waterford Waterford. Depicting a badly decayed Station by Tramore Strand.
crystal, linen and ladies’ fashion.
Barronstrand Street has smaller
independent shops.
THOMAS ST Henry MERCHANTS QUAY PARADE S u i r
Downes
O ‘ C O N N E L L S T
WHERE TO STAY IN Waterford Chamber GREAT GEORGE’S ST BARRON QUAY CUS TOM H O U S
Catholic
WATERFORD CITY of Commerce Cathedral
John Roberts BROAD STRAND ST
Square
STREET
Chorister’s
Granville Hotel moderate ST H I G H S T R E E T HENRIETTA E QUAY Reginald’s
Hall
Long-established and well-run CATHEDRAL Tower
independent hotel on the river. P A T R I C K S T R E E T Christ Church SQUARE
Elegant public rooms, furnished with Cathedral T H E M A L L
City Hall
paintings and antiques, and a range of 0 metres 200 M I C H A E L S T LADY LANE
Bishop’s Palace
comfortable guest rooms. SPRING GARDEN ALLEY
Meagher Quay; 051 305 555; 0 yards 200
www.granville-hotel.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
074-077_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 74 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 5: Viking Country 75


Far left Waterford City Hall and Christ Church
Cathedral Left Boats in Waterford Marina

EAT AND DRINK
WATERFORD CITY
Henry Downes inexpensive
This atmospheric old pub has been
in the same family since 1797. Try
the whiskey Downes No 9, which is
blended on the premises.
Thomas St; 051 874 118
Bodéga! moderate
2 Tramore The Metal Man Bright and lively with a varied menu –
Co Waterford High on the cliffs on the west side of chargrilled Cajun chicken salad,
Due to its long sandy beach, Tramore Tramore Bay are three pillars, one organic Irish lamb burger, Kilmore
Quay fishcakes.
has been a popular holiday resort for topped by the Metal Man, a 19-m John St; 051 844 177; www.
generations. There is a lively seafront, (61-ft) high figure dressed in the bodegawaterford.com; closed Sun
with an amusement park, miniature colourful uniform of a 19th-century La Bohème moderate–expensive
petty officer. The Metal Man’s out-
railway and other attractions, plus stretched right arm points to the safe Stylish restaurant in the basement of
good swimming and surfing. Its Horse channel for ships. He is one of four one of the city’s finest buildings.
Racing Festival in August is a such figures cast in London in 1819 Dishes include foie gras parfait, pan-
fashionable four-day event. following a shipping disaster in the seared Barbary duck breast, and pear
On the east side of town, an 8-km bay; another is in Sligo Bay (see p204). and almond clafoutis.
2 George’s St; 051 875 645; www.
(5-mile) circular walk passes along labohemerestaurant.ie; closed Sun
the Cush Sandspit to The Burrow 3 Annestown
and back along the beach. It is a Co Waterford TRAMORE
lovely stretch with opportunities to The cluster of houses at Annestown The Victoria inexpensive
see a large variety of birds on the lies on the so-called Copper Coast The veteran Vic pub is a lively affair
whose creditable menu includes all
Back Strand’s mudflats, including between Tramore and Dungarvan, an the pub classics alongside some
Brent geese, golden plover, black- area known for its copper mining in tempting wok and curry dishes.
tailed godwit, red-throated diver, the 19th century. It is a beautiful drive 11 Queens St; 051 390 338;
little egret, kingfisher and fulmar. past unspoiled beaches, coves and www.thevic.ie
Accessible by car on the west side grassy headlands. Annestown has a
of the bay is Great Newtown Head good beach, popular with surfers. Below Secluded cove near Bunmahon on
(leaving Tramore, take the first left after ª Continue along R675 to Bunmahon. County Waterford’s Copper Coast
4 km (2 miles), along the coast, then Park in town centre car park.
signposted) where the Metal Man can
be seen pointing shipping safely 4 Bunmahon
through the sand bars. Park at Co Waterford
Newtown Cove for a short, tricky Waterford’s Copper Coast has been
walk to the headland. designated a European Geopark on
ª Carry on, turning left onto the R675 account of its extraordinary geological
to Annestown. Park by the beach. heritage. Bunmahon’s Geological
Garden (www.coppercoastgeopark.com;
Heart of Glass open daily) explains the volcanic and
Waterford has been famous for its sedimentary rock that remains after
delicate cut glass since 1783, when two continents collided, creating
George and William Penrose started Ireland. There is also a standing stone
the crystal manufacturing business.
The industry prospered until 1851, inscribed with ogham, an early Irish
when a lack of capital and crippling script in use from the 3rd century.
taxes caused business to fail. In Some 19th-century copper mine
1947 a new factory opened, with workings are still visible in the area.
crafts men brought in from Europe ª Leaving Bunmahon, take a left turn
to teach what had become a lost off the R675 and follow the coast road
art. In 2009, the factory closed
again, a victim of the credit crunch, to Stradbally, which has a good beach.
but a major visitor centre, factory Stay on the road as far as Ballyvoyle
and shop have now opened on the crossroads (looking out for neolithic
historic Mall. remains), then rejoin the R675 left to
Dungarvan. Park on the street.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


074-077_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 75 11/09/17 12:29 pm

76 BACK ROADS IRELAND


Anglers’ Association can be bought
from Titelines tackle shop on Main
Street. The town’s other attraction is
Cappoquin House (for opening times
see www.cappoquinhouseand gardens.
com), an 18th-century mansion.
Following a fire in 1923 the house
was rebuilt back to front so as to
take better advantage of its riverside
location. The lovely gardens (open
Mon–Sat year-round) are particularly
noted for their rhododendrons in May.
ª Continue on the N72 to Lismore.
There is pay parking on the street.
Local Specialities
Dungarvan’s market is a good
place to find local produce and
specialities. These include
Knockanore farmhouse cheese and
Knockalara sheep’s milk cheese.
Also look for Gallwey’s chocolates,
Above Boats at Helvick Head pier Above top handmade in Waterford. Ardkeen
right Brightly painted shopfront in Lismore 5 Dungarvan Quality Food Store, on Dunmore
Above right Barrels outside a pub in Dungarvan Co Waterford Road in Waterford, is a source of
Set around a large harbour and artisan food from all over Ireland.
looking out to Helvick Head, this old
WHERE TO STAY
market town retains much of its
original charm. For centuries it was 8 Lismore
HELVICK HEAD
protected by its Anglo-Norman Co Waterford
Gortnadiha Lodge inexpensive castle (1186), the history of which is Situated in the Blackwater valley
Family farm with views of Dungarvan
Harbour. Serves exceptional breakfasts. told in its 18th-century barracks beneath the Knockmealdown
Ring (An Rinn); 058 46142; (open daily). Dungarvan blossomed in Mountains, Lismore was once
www.gortnadihalodge.com the early 19th century when the 5th famous for its double monastery
and 6th dukes of Devonshire (housing both nuns and monks),
CAPPOQUIN modernized its centre. In the Old founded in the 7th century by St
Richmond House expensive Town Hall on Augustine Street, Carthage. It was a world-renowned
Built by the Earl of Cork in 1704, this
charming country house offers Waterford County Museum (open centre of learning. Its castle,
exceptional comfort and fine food. Mon–Fri) charts its maritime history. dominating the approach to the
Cappoquin (just east of town); 058 ª Take the N25 south from town, is the Irish seat of the Duke of
54278; www.richmondhouse.net Dungarvan and then the first left onto Devonshire. It is largely 19th-century,
LISMORE the R674 to Helvick Head. There are
Ballyrafter Country House Hotel car parks at the end of the head. Below Lismore Castle, the Irish seat of the
moderate Duke of Devonshire
Small hotel built in the1800s for the 6 Helvick Head
Duke of Devonshire’s estate manager. Co Waterford
Lismore; 058 54002; The road to Helvick Head passes
www.ballyrafterhouse.com
through Ring (An Rinn), in Waterford’s
AROUND CLOGHEEN Gaeltacht (Irish-speaking) area. Rising
Ballyboy House inexpensive 70 m (230 ft) above a harbour, the
Georgian farmhouse just out of town, headland has fine views.
with antique furniture and log fires. ª Return inland to Dungarvan and
Ballyboy, Clogheen Road, Cahir
(on R665 between Clogheen and turn left on the N72 to Cappoquin,
Castle Grace); 052 746 5297, which has ample street parking.
www.ballyboyhouse.com
7 Cappoquin
AROUND BALLYMACARBRY Co Waterford
Hanora’s Cottage moderate This pretty town on the River
Country house hotel known for its food.
Nire Valley (a short drive east of Blackwater is famous for fly fishing
Ballymacarbry on a minor road); 052 and has a salmon and trout run. Day
613 6134; www.hanorascottage.com tickets issued by the Cappoquin


074-077_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 76 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 5: Viking Country 77


though there has been a castle on
this spot since the 12th century. Fred
Astaire’s sister Adele, who married
the second son of the 9th Duke of
Devonshire, lived here for some
years. The gardens (open daily)
contain a collection of modern
sculpture and a lovely riverside walk.
The town has two cathedrals
dedicated to St Carthage, the late
19th-century Catholic Cathedral,
and the Protestant Cathedral of
St Carthage (1633), which has Gothic
vaulting and a stained-glass window
by the Pre-Raphaelite artist Edward Above Mount Melleray abbey at the foot of
Burne-Jones. 0 Clogheen the Knockmealdown Mountains
ª Return to Cappoquin and take the Co Tipperary
R669 towards Tipperary. Turn right at A small market town on the River
the Cats Bar to Mount Melleray. Tar, Clogheen was a prosperous mill
town in the 18th and 19th centuries, EAT AND DRINK
9 Mount Melleray as a smattering of fine Georgian
Co Waterford townhouses testifies. Three kilometres DUNGARVAN
Set on the bare slopes of the (2 miles) east of town, off the R665, are Quealy’s moderate
Knockmealdown Mountains, the the remains of Castle Grace, an Anglo- A busy and friendly café bar in the
Cistercian abbey at Mount Melleray Norman castle with a tower at each centre of town with daily specials
(open daily) was founded in 1832 by corner; 8 km (5 miles) west, also on the such as a seafood platter.
Irish monks expelled from France. R665, is Ballyporeen, where former US O’Connell St; 058 24555
The monks observe a rule of silence president Ronald Reagan came to The Tannery expensive
but keep a tradition of hospitality; it celebrate his Irish roots in 1984. This is regarded as one of the country’s
finest restaurants, reinventing many
is usual to make an offering. Visitors ª From Clogheen, go back along Irish classics using the best local
can view most areas in the abbey the R668 and take the first left, produce. Booking advisable.
and have tea in the restaurant. following signs to Newcastle. Pass Quay St; 058 45420; www.tannery.ie;
On leaving Mount Melleray, return through Goats Bridge and Newcastle closed Mon
to the R669 and turn right to join the to Ballymacarbry. HELVICK HEAD
R668 for an exhilarating drive An Seanachaí moderate
through the Gap, the road’s highest Ballymacarbry A thatched cottage has been
point, and the Vee, a series of hairpin Co Waterford converted to a cosy bar, with good
bends, to Clogheen. On the way, look This village is an ideal base for food, on the road from Dungarvan.
Pulla Cross, An Rinn (Ring); 058 46755;
out for the beehive-shaped tomb exploring the majestic Comeragh www.seanachai.ie
of Samuel Grubb (1750–1815) on Mountains, either on foot or by car.
Sugarloaf Mountain. One-time owner The Nire Valley Drive (signposted LISMORE
of Castle Grace, near Clogheen, off the R671 east of town) into the Summer House Cafe inexpensive
Grubb was buried upright in order, mountains is a spectacular route Hidden away to the rear of a gift
shop, this sweet little place has all
it is said, to overlook his land. flanked by the Comeragh range manner of baked goodies, as well
ª Carry on to Clogheen and park on to the right and the dramatic as simple lunches.
the street. Punchbowl formation to the left. Main Street; 058 54148; closed Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS stopping at the Geological Garden. picturesque Cappoquin 7 and
Spend a day on the coast or in In the late afternoon, the sun brings Lismore 8, with an exciting ride
Waterford’s inland valleys. out the colours of the cliff face. through the Knockmealdown
Mountains to Clogheen 0.
Leaving Waterford City take the R675
Tramore and the Copper Coast all the way to Dungarvan. Return From Cappoquin take the N72 to
Begin at Tramore 2, taking in the by the same route or cut inland along Lismore. From there take the R668 to
beach and seafront attractions, and a the N25. join the R669 and head north through
walk along the sandspit east of town. the Knockmealdown Mountains to
Afterwards head along the Copper Mountains and valleys Clogheen. Return to Cappoquin on
Coast to Dungarvan 5 via Combine a gentle drive along the the R669, making a detour to Mount
Annestown 3 and Bunmahon 4, lovely Blackwater Valley, stopping in Melleray if there is time.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


074-077_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 77 11/09/17 12:29 pm

BR_IR_078-079.indd 78 23/10/09 14:23:57
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

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80 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Kilkenny’s Medieval Treasures JohnstownJohnstown

On the fringes of well-heeled Leinster, beyond the gravitational pull of Dublin, BallyhadeBallyhade
Kilkenny City has a keen sense of its own worth. For 500 years the powerful SleatySleaty Barrow Barrow PalatinePalatine
Earls of Ormonde held sway here, and for a time in the 17th century it even KilleshinKilleshin KillerrigKillerrig
RutlandRutland
challenged Dublin as the centre of power in Ireland. Running through the city ClonmoreClonmore CARLOW TOWNCARLOW TOWN
and County Kilkenny is the River Nore, a lovely waterway that laps ivy-clad GraigueGraigue BennekerryBennekerry
priories, stone castles, round towers and picturesque villages such as Inistioge LAOISLAOIS BallycrogueBallycrogue
and Thomastown on its course south. This route stops off at many of the GrangefordGrangeford
Kilkenny’s medieval treasures, from Dominican Black Abbey in the county BilboaBilboa Burren Burren
capital to Cistercian Jerpoint Abbey and Duiske Abbey in Graiguenamanagh, BallingbranaghBallingbranagh
the “Granary of the Monks”. TomardTomard
MilfordMilford RathtoeRathtoe
Damerstown
Damerstown
Kilmacar
Kilmacar TomardTomard GraiguealugGraiguealug
LowerLower
RidgeRidge NurneyNurney
Dinin Dinin Corbetstown CARLOWCARLOW
Corbetstown
Clintstown
Clintstown BallybrommellBallybrommell
Reevanagh
Reevanagh OldleighlinOldleighlin LeighlinbridgeLeighlinbridge
Mohil Mohil
Ballyfoyle
RaheenkillaneRaheenkillane
Jenkinstown Ballyfoyle FennaghFennagh
Jenkinstown
KildreenaghKildreenagh
Johnswell BagenalstownBagenalstown
Johnswell
Nore
Nore
Carrig Beg
Myshall
Castlewarren Carrig Beg Myshall
Castlewarren
Kilderry
Kilderry
Carrig More
Carrig More
PaulstownPaulstown
KilmachillKilmachill
Bonnetstown Flagmount
Bonnetstown
Flagmount
Corries Cross
DuningaDuninga Corries Cross Drumfea
Drumfea
KilgraneyKilgraney
KILKENNY CITYKILKENNY CITY Mount Leinster M o u n t a i n s
Maddockstown
Maddockstown 796m 796m M o u n t a i n s
Ballymartin
Ballymartin
Goresbridge
Go
Dunbell
Bamford
Bamford Dunbell Gowranwran Goresbridge Mount Leinster
KILKENNY
KILKENNY
Killedmona
Powerstown
Above The picture-perfect town of Inistioge nestled on the River Nore, see p85 Powerstown Killedmona
Grangeange Kilree Kilree Bennettsbridge Barrow BORRISBORRIS
Gr
Bennettsbridge
Skeaghvasteen
Barrow
Dungarvan
Dungarvan Skeaghvasteen B l a c k s t a i r s B l a c k s t a i r s Scullogue
Scullogue
Burnchurch
Burnchurch Tullaherin Gap Gap
Tullaherin
Ballymurphy
Ballymurphy
ACTIVITIES Ballymack Kilmanaheen
Kilmanaheen
Ballymack
Climb St Canice’s Round Tower, in Highrath EnnisnagEnnisnag Kilfane Kilfane GRAIGUENAMANAGHGRAIGUENAMANAGH
Highrath
Kilkenny, for splendid views King’s Coppanagh NewtownNewtown
Coppanagh
King’s
Gap Gap Tinnahinch
Tinnahinch
Buy some of Ireland’s finest crafts KELLSKELLS THOMASTOWNTHOMASTOWN Mungmacody
StonyfordStonyford
Mungmacody
Grennon
in the Kilkenny Design Centre, MountMount Grennon BallynakillBallynakill
JulietJuliet
Castle Castle
opposite Kilkenny Castle OldtownOldtown Mount Brandon
Mount Brandon
519m 519m BahanaBahana
Dunnamaggan
Savour a pint of Kilkenny ale, the Dunnamaggan Barrettstown JERPOINT GlynnGlynn
Barrettstown
JERPOINT
ABBEY
velvety local brew, in Kyteler Inn, the ABBEY St MullinsSt Mullins
former home of a convicted witch INISTIOGEINISTIOGE
0 kilometres 5 Knocktopher Arrigle Arrigle Woodstock
Knocktopher
Woodstock
Wander through the monkey 0 miles 5 Gardens
Gardens
Newmarket
puzzle walk in Woodstock Gardens Newmarket Ballyhale Bohilla Bohilla Nore Nore MunganMungan
Ballyhale
Coolroebeg
Coolroebeg
See the Romanesque remains in The RowerThe Rower
Duiske Abbey, Graiguenamanagh
Stand in the ruins of Carlow KEY Mullennakill TullagherTullagher BallilogueBallilogue
Mullennakill
Castle, a stronghold besieged by BallynealeBallyneale BallyanneBallyanne
Oliver Cromwell Drive route
New RossNew Ross
080-081_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 80 13/10/17 1:06 pm

DRIVE 6: Kilkenny’s Medieval Treasures 81

JohnstownJohnstown
PLAN YOUR DRIVE
BallyhadeBallyhade Start/finish: Kilkenny City to Carlow
SleatySleaty Barrow Barrow PalatinePalatine Town.
KilleshinKilleshin Number of days: 1–2 days.
RutlandRutland KillerrigKillerrig
ClonmoreClonmore
GraigueGraigue CARLOW TOWNCARLOW TOWN Distance: 170 km (91 miles).
LAOISLAOIS BennekerryBennekerry Road conditions: Well paved and
BallycrogueBallycrogue
GrangefordGrangeford signposted.
BilboaBilboa When to go: The weather is better in
Burren
Burren
summer, and some places are closed
BallingbranaghBallingbranagh
TomardTomard Nov–Feb. There is plenty to see and do
MilfordMilford RathtoeRathtoe all year, especially in Kilkenny City.
DamerstownDamerstown
KilmacarKilmacar TomardTomard GraiguealugGraiguealug Opening times: Shops and attractions
LowerLower
RidgeRidge NurneyNurney are open from 9am to 6pm, Mon–Fri.,
Dinin Dinin CorbetstownCorbetstown CARLOWCARLOW and shorter hours on Sunday.
ClintstownClintstown BallybrommellBallybrommell Main market days: Kilkenny City:
ReevanaghReevanagh OldleighlinOldleighlin LeighlinbridgeLeighlinbridge
MohilMohil Farmers’ Market, Thu am; Carlow
RaheenkillaneRaheenkillane
JenkinstownJenkinstown BallyfoyleBallyfoyle FennaghFennagh Town: Sat.
KildreenaghKildreenagh
JohnswellJohnswell BagenalstownBagenalstown Shopping: Visit the Kilkenny Design
Studio for high-quality crafts.
Nore
Nore
CastlewarrenCastlewarren Carrig BegCarrig Beg MyshallMyshall
KilderryKilderry Major festivals: Kilkenny City: Roots
Carrig MoreCarrig More Festival, May; The Cat Laughs Comedy
PaulstownPaulstown
KilmachillKilmachill Festival, Jun; Kilkenny Arts Festival, Aug.
BonnetstownBonnetstown FlagmountFlagmount
DuningaDuninga Corries CrossCorries Cross DrumfeaDrumfea
KilgraneyKilgraney
KILKENNY CITYKILKENNY CITY Mount Leinster M o u n t a i n s DAY TRIP OPTIONS
MaddockstownMaddockstown 796m 796m M o u n t a i n s
BallymartinBallymartin Art and architecture buffs are richly
BamfordBamford DunbellDunbell GowranGowran GoresbridgeGoresbridge Mount Leinster served by Kilkenny City’s medieval
KILKENNYKILKENNY heritage. For 12th-century ruins
PowerstownPowerstown KilledmonaKilledmona nestling in lush river valleys, head for
GrangeGrange KilreeKilree BennettsbridgeBennettsbridge Barrow BORRISBORRIS Kells Priory and Jerpoint Abbey, and
Barrow
DungarvanDungarvan SkeaghvasteenSkeaghvasteen B l a c k s t a i r s B l a c k s t a i r s Scullogue then relax in the romantic gardens at
Scullogue
BurnchurchBurnchurch TullaherinTullaherin Gap Gap Inistioge. For full details, see p85.
BallymurphyBallymurphy
BallymackBallymack KilmanaheenKilmanaheen
Below The 13th-century early English Gothic-
KilfaneKilfane
HighrathHighrath GRAIGUENAMANAGHGRAIGUENAMANAGH
EnnisnagEnnisnag style St Canice’s Cathedral, Kilkenny City, see p82
Coppanagh
Coppanagh
King’s
King’s NewtownNewtown
Gap Gap TinnahinchTinnahinch
THOMASTOWNTHOMASTOWN
StonyfordStonyford
KELLSKELLS MungmacodyMungmacody
MountMount Grennon BallynakillBallynakill
Grennon
JulietJuliet Castle Castle
OldtownOldtown
Mount Brandon
Mount Brandon BahanaBahana
519m 519m
DunnamagganDunnamaggan BarrettstownBarrettstown JERPOINT GlynnGlynn
JERPOINT
ABBEY St MullinsSt Mullins
ABBEY
INISTIOGEINISTIOGE
Arrigle Arrigle Woodstock
KnocktopherKnocktopher
Woodstock
Gardens
Gardens
NewmarketNewmarket BallyhaleBallyhale BohillaBohilla Nore Nore MunganMungan
CoolroebegCoolroebeg
The RowerThe Rower
TullagherTullagher
MullennakillMullennakill BallilogueBallilogue
BallynealeBallyneale BallyanneBallyanne
New RossNew Ross
080-081_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 81 11/09/17 11:38 am

82 BACK ROADS IRELAND


















Above Kilkenny Castle, an impressive Norman
fortress Above centre The choir of St Canice’s 1 Kilkenny City
Cathedral, Kilkenny Above right St John’s Co Kilkenny
Bridge and the River Nore Ireland’s only inland city, Kilkenny is also one of its finest. It brims
with medieval treasures and has narrow alleyways, gaily coloured
VISITING KILKENNY CITY shop fronts and a vibrant atmosphere. Set on the west bank of the
River Nore, the historic centre is book-ended by its two main
Parking landmarks, St Canice’s Cathedral and Kilkenny Castle.
Park in Market Yard off Bateman’s Quay,
or in one of the central car parks on A two-hour walking tour church dedicated to St Canice – Cill
Ormonde Street or James Street. From Market Yard car park 1 follow Chainnigh (Church of Canice), from
Tourist Information the walkway onto St Kieran’s Street which Kilkenny derives its name. Inside,
Rose Inn St; 056 775 1500; www.discover and then Parliament Street. On the look out for the 16th-century carved
ireland.ie; open Mon–Sat year-round. right, in the yard of the Smithwicks effigies of Kilkenny’s powerful Butler
Shopping Experience 2, which offers tours of family (see box), a model of the town in
Kilkenny Design Centre stocks a the Kilkenny Brewery (daily), are the its Elizabethan heyday and the
superb range of high-quality crafts. ruins of 13th-century St Francis’ 13th-century east window. Climb the
The Crafts Council of Ireland is in the
same complex. Abbey (closed to public). Leaving the cathedral’s round tower (847) for far-
Castle Yard, The Parade; 056 772 2118; yard, turn right onto Irish Town. reaching views.
www.kilkennydesign.com; open daily Ahead is St Canice’s Cathedral (open Leaving the cathedral, turn right
daily) 3, a 13th-century Protestant down Dean Street. After 200 m (656 ft),
cathedral in the Early English Gothic cross the road and turn left, following
style; it sits on the site of a pre-Norman signs for Black Abbey (open daily) 4, a
WHERE TO STAY IN
KILKENNY CITY
St Canice’s
Laragh House inexpensive Cathedral V I C A R S T 0 metres 500
Modern, family-run guesthouse within
walking distance of the city centre. Smithwicks 0 yards 500
Waterford Rd; 056 779 6691; Experience
www.laraghhouse.com D E A N S T R E E T IRISH TOWN
Butler House moderate S T J O H N ’ S Q U A Y Kilkenny
Station
Comfortable Georgian townhouse that
M I C H A E L S T R E E T
is part of the castle estate. Breakfast is Black A B B E Y S T R E E T
served at the Kilkenny Design Centre. Abbey House PARLIAMENT ST Car Park J O H N S T R E E T D U B L I N R O A D
Rothe
16 Patrick St; 056 7722 828; Kyteler’s Inn
www.butler.ie B L ACKM I L L S T B AT EMAN’S Q UAY M AU D L I N S T R E E T
Kilkenny Hibernian Hotel moderate J A M E S ’ S S T R E E T Tholsel ST KIERAN’S ST
Housed in a former bank. This hotel
has spacious rooms mixing traditional H I G H S T
and modern styles. River Nore
Ormonde St; 056 777 1888; P A R N E L L S T R E E T ROSE I NN ST
www.kilkennyhibernianhotel.com F R I A R Y S T R E E T Castle
Kilkenny River Court Hotel moderate O R M O N D E S TR E E T PATRICK ST La wn
Comfortable hotel with beautifully T H E PA R A D E C A S T L E R O A D
appointed rooms, a lovely riverside Kilkenny Castle
terrace and pool. LO W E R NE W S T R E E T Design Gar dens
The Bridge, John St; 056 772 3388; WA L K I N S T O R M O N D E R O A D Centre
www.rivercourthotel.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
082-085_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 82 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 6: Kilkenny’s Medieval Treasures 83


Dukes of Ormonde turning right at the end. Turn down a
In 1391 Edmund Butler, the third slipway and through a gate in the
Earl of Ormonde bought Kilkenny castle walls. Turn left to follow the
Castle, a move designed to canal (which merges with the river)
consolidate the family’s power in
Kilkenny and Tipperary. Butlers of to St John’s Bridge. Turn left up Rose
various branches influenced life in Inn Street, where the Tourist
the region for nearly 500 years. Information Office (open Mon–Sat) 0
Their strength lay in their loyalty to occupies a medieval almshouse, and
the English Crown, their disdain of take St Kieran’s Street to the car park.
Irish ways and their success in ª Leave the city centre by Patrick
dismantling the power of the
Catholic Geraldines. Street (N10) and turn right at Kells Road
(R697). In Kells, drive to top of village
and turn left to Kells Priory.
13th-century Dominican Friary with
fine stained-glass windows. From here, 2 Kells
head down Abbey Lane, through Black Not to be confused with the more
Freren Gate. On the right are remnants famous Kells Monastery in Meath,
of the city walls. Turn right onto 13th-century Kells Priory lies at the
Parliament Street to arcaded Rothe end of a sloping field, accessed
House (open daily) 5, a medieval through a kissing gate. Its fortified
merchant’s house. Continuing up towers and connecting walls date Above The 15th-century cloisters of Jerpoint
Parliament Street, veer left down St from the 15th century. Abbey, one of Ireland’s finest Cistercian ruins
Kieran’s Street, past Kyteler’s Inn 6, a ª Turn left from the priory. After
good place to enjoy a pint of ale. It 3 km (2 miles) turn right at a
was once the home of Alice Kyteler, T-junction, signed for Mount Juliet.
convicted of witchcraft in the 14th At the junction with the R448, turn EAT AND DRINK IN
century. Kyteler fled the country, but left. Jerpoint Abbey is just before KILKENNY CITY
her maid was sent to the stake. The Thomastown.
presiding judge, Bishop Ledrede, is Kyteler’s Inn inexpensive
buried in St Canice’s graveyard. 3 Jerpoint Abbey The former home of convicted witch
Alice Kyteler in the 14th century, this
Continue along St Kieran’s Street Founded in 1180, this Cistercian historic inn serves Smithwick’s beer,
and turn right up the Butter Slip, the abbey is a daughter house of brewed in Kilkenny since 1710.
old butter market, to Main Street. On Mellifont Abbey (see p159). Its tower Kieran’s St; 056 776 1064;
the left is the Tholsel 7, a Georgian and battlements stand out proudly, www.kytelersinn.com
remodelling of the medieval and there is still a sense of its former Mocha’s Vintage Tea Room
exchequer and subsequent Town Hall. grandeur. Most of the buildings still inexpensive
Turn left up High Street and fork left standing date from the 15th century, Lovely old world decor and top-notch
tea, coffee, cakes and savoury snacks.
up the Parade to the castle, stopping but the abbey’s principal attraction 4 The Arches; 056 777 0565; closed Sun
to look at Irish crafts in the Kilkenny lies in its details. The carvings in the
Design Centre 8, (open daily) in the cloister are the most ornate of any Kilkenny Design Centre
moderate
castle’s stable block. The Castle (open religious building in Ireland, with Self-service restaurant in the castle’s
daily) 9 was the seat of the Dukes of knights, courtly ladies, bishops and former dairy and stables. Consistently
Ormonde for 500 years. Inside, the dragons. Enjoy a scone at Jerpoint good food at reasonable prices.
Long Gallery (1820s) has a hammer Park, a heritage site that is only a The Parade; 056 772 2118;
beam roof painted with motifs from few minutes away by car. www.kilkennydesign.com
the Book of Kells. From the castle gates, ª Turn right on leaving the abbey Rinuccini moderate
follow the path around the lawn, and drive into Thomastown. Bustling Italian restaurant conveniently
located opposite Kilkenny Castle. Offers
good quality and outstanding value.
Parade; 056 776 1575;
www.rinuccini.com
La Campagne expensive
This Michelin-starred restaurant delivers
seriously good modern French food in a
relaxed setting.
5 Gashouse Lane; 056 777 2858; www.
campagne.ie; closed Sun dinner & Mon
Far left Mullins Mill Museum, next to Kells
Priory Left The 15th-century fortified towers
of Kells Priory




082-085_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 83 11/09/17 11:38 am

84 BACK ROADS IRELAND


4 Thomastown meticulously restored and feature an
Co Kilkenny arboretum, a monkey puzzle walk,
Strategically important in medieval dovecote and grotto. Derelict
times, this market town gives few Woodstock House, burnt down in the
hints of the walled town it once was, civil war of 1922, gives an extra
save for its old stone bridge over the poignancy to the garden.
River Nore and the 13th-century ª Leaving Inistioge, cross the arched
ruins of St Mary’s Church. A pleasant, bridge and take the first left to
2 km (1 mile) walk along the river Graiguenamanagh (11 km/7 miles)
leads to the 13th-century shell of almost immediately after the bridge.
Grennan Castle. Arriving in Graiguenamanagh, drive
ª Turn left onto The Quay and follow up the hill, past Duiske Abbey, to the
signs for the R700 towards New Ross car park on right.
and Inistioge.
6 Graiguenamanagh
Statutes of Kilkenny Co Carlow
In 1366 the English Crown decided Once a place of significant
that the Anglo-Norman rulers of ecclesiastical importance,
Ireland were becoming too Graiguenamanagh (Granary of the
enamoured of Irish ways and Monks) is a small market town on
customs. Fearful of losing its grip, it the River Barrow. Occupying centre
enacted the much-hated “Statutes
Above View over the small market town of of Kilkenny”. Under the new laws, stage is Duiske Abbey (open Mon–Fri),
Graiguenamanagh intermarriage between Anglo- founded in 1204 by Cistercian
Normans and Irish was an act of monks. After the Dissolution of
high treason, and Norman settlers the Monasteries in 1536, it was
WHERE TO STAY speaking Irish, adopting Irish dress abandoned and fell into gradual
or wearing their hair long in the Irish decline, the tower finally collapsing
style risked forfeiting their lands.
THOMASTOWN in 1774. In the early 19th century
Ballyduff House parts of the church were roofed and
inexpensive-moderate 5 Inistioge mass was celebrated here once
Handsome and elegant 18th-century Co Kilkenny again. Most of the present building
house overlooking the River Suir. Picture-perfect Inistioge sits dates from this period. However, it
Guests are free to avail themselves of
the gorgeous library and drawing room. elegantly on the River Nore, the ideal retains some original features, in
Thomastown; 056 775 8488; setting for an Irish country drama. It’s particular a Romanesque doorway,
www.ballyduffhouse.ie no surprise then that Circle of Friends an effigy of a Norman knight and by
GRAIGUENAMANAGH (1995), starring Minnie Driver, and the main entrance the original fleur-
Widow’s Peak (1994), with Mia Farrow, de-lis paving stones. A second
Waterside Guesthouse inexpensive
Originally a corn store for the local were both filmed here. There is a restoration was undertaken in the
boatmen, this has been sensitively lovely riverside walk, and the nine- 1970s, and the abbey is now a
converted into a delightful guesthouse. arch stone bridge – the largest in working parish church.
All the rooms overlook the River Barrow. Ireland – is a source of local pride. ª Exiting the abbey’s car park drive
The Quay; 059 972 4246; www.waterside Unusually in Ireland, the Catholic and uphill to the roundabout. Take the
guesthouse.com; closed Nov–Feb
Anglican churches stand side by side. third exit onto Borris Road. At the
AROUND GRAIGUENAMANAGH Just above the town are Woodstock junction with the R702 turn right for
Mulvarra House inexpensive Gardens (open daily), which are being Borris (2 km/1 mile).
On a hill overlooking picturesque St
Mullins village, 6 km (4 miles) south
of Graiguenamanagh. Breakfast and
dinner are impressive. Some rooms
have a balcony view over the valley.
St Mullins, Co Carlow; 051 424 936;
www.mulvarra.com
CARLOW TOWN
Barrowville Townhouse inexpensive
Period house near the town centre.
Serves hearty breakfasts.
Kilkenny Rd; 059 914 3324;
www.barrowville.com
Right Riverside garden in the attractive
village of Inistioge




082-085_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 84 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 6: Kilkenny’s Medieval Treasures 85
















Above left Traditional bar at
7 Borris ª Exiting Borris, follow the R702 as Graiguenamanagh Above right Colourful
Co Carlow far as Gowran. Just before the village, narrow boats moored on the River Barrow
Nestling in the Barrow valley below turn right onto the R448, signposted at Graiguenamanagh
the Blackstairs Mountains, this is Carlow (19 km/12 miles).
a pretty village with a cluster of EAT AND DRINK
Georgian houses. Its two main 8 Carlow Town
landmarks are the Regency-styled Co Carlow INISTIOGE
Borris House (tours May–Sep: Tue–Thu; The county town of Ireland’s second- Footlights inexpensive
www.borrishouse.com), ancestral home smallest county, Carlow was an A riverside bistro offering pretty views,
of the High Kings of Leinster, and Anglo-Norman stronghold guarding light dining and evening meals.
the 16-arch viaduct at the bottom of the River Barrow. Its position on the The Square; 086 361 9411;
www.footlights.ie
the town. In the 1800s Borris experi- fringes of the English Pale, the
enced a period of prosperity, thanks protected area around Dublin, gave The Otter inexpensive
The best of Inistioge’s several pubs,
to its sawmills and lace industry. it a significant role in the history of with summer barbecues, superb ales
For a time Borris lace enjoyed an Ireland. During the 1798 rebellion and live music at weekends.
international reputation. 600 rebels were massacred here after High St; 087 061 9015
attempting to take the town. The GRAIGUENAMANAGH
Liberty Tree sculpture off Hanover
Street commemorates this event. Waterside Restaurant and
Guesthouse inexpensive
Standing next to the River Barrow Stone warehouse on the bank
are the ruins of Carlow Castle. It of the River Barrow. Smoked eel
survived many sieges, including one from the river is a signature dish.
by Oliver Cromwell, but was finally The Quay; 059 972 4246;
laid to waste by a Dr Middleton in www.watersideguesthouse.com
1814. Determined to convert the BORRIS
castle into an asylum, he set about The Stephouse Hotel moderate
reducing the thickness of its walls Smart hotel with a classy restaurant and
with explosives, eventually causing brasserie, both offering classic Irish
their demolition. Other buildings of cooking with a modern twist.
note are the Neo-Gothic Catholic 66 Main St; 059 0773209;
www.stephousehotel.ie
Cathedral and St Mary’s Church of
Above Borris House, ancestral home of the Ireland, both dating from the early
High Kings of Leinster 19th century.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS grave of the judge who convicted in countryside south of Kilkenny City.
Kilkenny City is a good base to Alice Kyteler of witchcraft in Kells has fortified walls and towers;
explore the area. Kilkenny City can the 14th century, and admire the Jerpoint is known for its carvings.
be quickly accessed along the M9 13th-century east window. Afterwards head to Inistioge 5 to
from Waterford City and the M7 Afterwards head for the castle, seat see Woodstock Gardens and have
(then N8 and N77) from Dublin. of the Butler family for 500 years. lunch overlooking the River Nore.
Kilkenny City can be explored on foot. From Kilkenny City, head south along
Kilkenny’s Castle and Cathedral the R697 Kells Road (or faster N10 to
The highlights of Kilkenny City 1 Abbeys and gardens Stonyford and turn right), then cut east
can easily fill a whole day. Climb Just a few kilometres apart are Kells to Jerpoint via Mount Juliet, and then
the cathedral’s round tower, find the Priory 2 and Jerpoint Abbey 3, set south along the R700 to Inistioge.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


082-085_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 85 13/10/17 1:06 pm

BR_IR_086-087_Opener7.indd 86 23/10/09 14:24:26
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Tipperary’s
Holy Glen
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Highlights
• The Ancient Rock of Cashel
Marvel at the solitary glory of
Ireland’s finest ecclesiastical site
• Tranquil Athassel Priory
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• Stronghold of Cahir
Explore the formidable castle of the
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88 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Tipperary’s Holy Glen

Bordered by the Galtee and Knockmealdown mountains to the south, this
fertile, landlocked county is often overlooked by visitors, eager to move on
to the more dramatic landscape of the western coastal counties. This is a
pity, as Tipperary’s many captivating sights warrant far more than a
cursory glance. Chief among them is the resplendent Glen of
Aherlow, studded with holy wells and ruined abbeys. Also
here is Ireland’s most fascinating ecclesiastical site – the
totemic Rock of Cashel, a lofty citadel that soars
Clonkelly
above the surrounding vale. To the east are the Dundrum Clonkelly
Dundrum
Ardmayle
Ballymore
vibrant former Anglo-Norman strongholds Newtown Ballymore Ardmayle
Newtown
of Cahir and Clonmel, quintessential Donohill Knockavilla Suir Suir Fussough
Knockavilla
Fussough
Irish market towns that are ideal for Moanmore Donohill
Moanmore
Ballynahinch
a leisurely wander. Ballynahinch
Gorteeneen
Gort
Multeen
Multeen
Moyglass
Donaskeagh Moyglass
Donaskeagh
CASHEL Mocklershill
CASHEL
Monara
Cullen
Cullen Monara Mocklershill
Rathor
Rathordandan
Knock
Knockbritbrit
KEY Thomastown Golden
Thomastown
Golden
Kilfeakle
Kilfeakle
Drive route
ATHASSEL
ATHASSEL
PRIORY
Tipper
Tipperaryary PRIORY Templenoe
Templenoe
Lattin Lattin Shronell Rosegreeneen
Rosegr
Shronell
Bawnbrack
Bawnbrack
Attykitykit Fethard
Att
Fethard
Lagganstown
TIPPERAR
Ballinleenty Lagganstown TIPPERAR Y Y
Ballinleenty
Bansha
Brookville Bansha
Brookville
Rathdermot
Rathdermot Ara Ara Mastertown
Mastertown
Colman
Newinn
GLEN OF AHERLOW
GLEN OF AHERLOW Newinn Colman
Kilross NATURE PARK Foxfort Ballygorteeneen
Kilross
NATURE PARK
Ballygort
Foxfort
Grangebeg
Newtown Grangebeg
Newtown
G l e n o f A h e r
G l e n o f A h e r l o w l o w Aherlow
Aherlow
Lisronagh
Lisvernane
Lisvernane Rossadrehid Clerahan Lisronagh
Rossadrehid
Clerahan
CLONBEG
CLONBEG
Galbally THE KYLE
Galbally
THE KYLE
CHURCH
MOORE
MOORE CHURCH Ballydrehid Poulnamucky
Poulnamucky
Ballydrehid
ABBEY
ABBEY
Newchapel
Newchapel
G a l t y M o u n t a i
G a l t y M o u n t a i n s n s
Spittle
Spittle
Barna Barna Rathkeevin
Rathkeevin
Greenane
CAHIR
804m 804m
Galtymore Greenane CAHIR
Galtymore
Clonmore
920m 920m Clonmore
ACTIVITIES
CLONMEL
Swiss Cottage
Swiss Cottage
Ballindoney
Ballindoney Marlfield CLONMEL
Marlfield
Walk out to Hore Abbey for an Suir Suir Knocklofty
Knocklofty
W A TERFORD
outstanding view of the soaring W A TERFORD
Rock of Cashel Caherbaun
Caherbaun
Russellstown
See red squirrels and spring flowers Ardfinnan Kilmanahan Russellstown
Kilmanahan
Ardfinnan
on the Bianconi Forest Walk in the
Glen of Aherlow
Ballydonagh
Ballydonagh
Ballyveera
Ballyveera
Climb up to Darby’s Bed, a
megalithic passage tomb on a
hillside near Galbally
Visit Cahir’s curious Swiss Cottage,
a cottage ornée designed by Georgian
architect John Nash
Left Celtic cross in Cashel’s
broad Main Street, see p90
088-089_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 88 12/09/17 12:05 pm
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DRIVE 7: Tipperary’s Holy Glen 89

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Cashel to Clonmel.
Number of days: 2–3.
Distance: 240 km (154 miles).
Road conditions: Well paved and
signposted.
When to go: Mar–Oct is best. Many of
the holy wells and monastic sites are
Clonkelly Above The town of Cashel, below wet and boggy in winter.
Clonkelly
Dundrum the famous Rock, see p90
Dundrum
Ardmayle
Ballymore
Newtown Ballymore Ardmayle Opening times: Shops are generally
Newtown
Suir Suir open 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm, but
Knockavilla
Knockavilla
Donohill Fussough closed Sun. Sights may be closed in
Fussough
Donohill
Moanmore
Moanmore winter.
Ballynahinch
Ballynahinch
Gorteeneen
Gort
Multeen
Multeen Main market days: Cahir: Farmers’
Moyglass
Donaskeagh Moyglass
Donaskeagh
CASHEL Mocklershill Market, Sat am (car park beside Craft
CASHEL
Monara
Cullen Monara Mocklershill Granary on Church Street).
Cullen
Rathor
Rathordandan
Knockbritbrit
Knock
Thomastown
Thomastown Golden Major festivals: Cashel: Art Festival,
Golden
Kilfeakle Sep; Glen of Aherlow: Walking Festival,
Kilfeakle
ATHASSEL end of Jan; Clonmel: National Coursing
ATHASSEL
PRIORY
Tipper
Tipperaryary PRIORY Templenoe Meeting, Jan; Junction Festival (art
Templenoe
Lattin Lattin Shronell Rosegreeneen
Shronell
Rosegr
Bawnbrack
Bawnbrack festival), Jul.
Attykitykit Fethard
Fethard
Att
Lagganstown
TIPPERAR
Ballinleenty Lagganstown TIPPERAR Y Y
Ballinleenty
Bansha
Brookville Bansha
Brookville
Rathdermot
Rathdermot Ara Ara Mastertown DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Mastertown
Colman
Newinn
GLEN OF AHERLOW
GLEN OF AHERLOW Newinn Colman
Kilross
Kilross NATURE PARK Foxfort Ballygorteeneen
NATURE PARK
Ballygort
Foxfort
Newtown
Newtown Grangebeg For fascinating insights into Irish
Grangebeg
G l e n o f A h e r
G l e n o f A h e r l o w l o w Aherlow history and culture, dramatic views
Aherlow
Lisvernane Rossadrehid Clerahan Lisronagh and outstanding Romanesque
Lisronagh
Lisvernane
Rossadrehid
Clerahan
CLONBEG
CLONBEG
Galbally THE KYLE architecture, head to the Rock of
Galbally
THE KYLE
CHURCH
MOORE
MOORE CHURCH Ballydrehid Poulnamucky
Poulnamucky
Ballydrehid
ABBEY
ABBEY Cashel, Cahir Castle and the old
Newchapel market town of Clonmel. Keen walkers
Newchapel
G a l t y M o u n t a i n s n s
G a l t y M o u n t a i
Spittle can explore the many hiking trails in
Spittle
Barna Barna Rathkeevin the Glen of Aherlow, taking in the
Rathkeevin
Greenane
CAHIR
Galtymore Greenane CAHIR wooded hillsides, ruined abbeys
804m 804m
Galtymore
Clonmore
920m 920m Clonmore and holy wells. For full details, see p91.
CLONMEL
Swiss Cottage CLONMEL
Swiss Cottage
Ballindoney Marlfield
Ballindoney
Marlfield
Knocklofty
Knocklofty
Suir
Suir
W A TERFORD Below the Glen of Aherlow, ideal walking
W A TERFORD
country, see p91
Caherbaun
Caherbaun
Russellstown
Kilmanahan Russellstown
Kilmanahan
Ardfinnan
Ardfinnan
Ballydonagh
Ballydonagh
Ballyveera
Ballyveera
0 kilometres 5
0 miles 5
088-089_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 89 12/09/17 12:05 pm

90 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Cashel Back in the car park at the foot of the
Co Tipperary rock, the Brú Ború Cultural Centre –
All royal and ecclesiastical ruins in named after Brian Ború, a 10th-century
Ireland fade into insignificance when king of Munster – charts the history of
compared with the Rock of Cashel Irish culture, and holds traditional
(closed 24–26 Dec). Visible from afar, music, song and dance performances.
this tight cluster of turrets and towers ª From the car park, turn left and then
soars majestically above the vales of left again onto the main Dublin–Cork
Tipperary. From the 4th or 5th century road. Turn right and drive through
it was the seat of the Kings of Munster, Cashel. At the end of the High Street turn
whose kingdom extended over much right and left onto the R505. At the first
of southern Ireland. Legend has it that roundabout turn left onto the N74. After
St Patrick baptized Aengus, King of 6 km (4 miles), just past the village of
Munster, here in AD 448. In 1101 Golden, turn left just after Bridge House
Cashel was handed over to the Church. pub. Shortly after the priory comes into
It flourished as a religious centre until view, 1.5 km (1 mile) from the turning,
Cromwell’s army sacked it in 1647. pull into a lay-by on the left, just past
From the car park, Bishop’s Walk leads some stone pillars.
to the 15th-century Hall of the Vicar’s
Choral, built for Cashel’s top choristers. 2 Athassel Priory
Above The dramatic Rock of Cashel tops a It now houses the ticket office and an Co Tipperary
craggy limestone outcrop audiovisual presentation on the site. In From the stone pillars a path leads
the museum on the lower floor, look over a bridge and through the old
out for St Patrick’s Cross; its base is gate lodge of the priory. Founded in
believed to be the coronation stone of 1192 by the Anglo-Norman knight
the Munster kings, and the carving William de Burgh, this Augustinian
on the east face depict St Patrick on priory (open daily) was once the
his visit to Cashel in 450. Opposite largest in Ireland. Its walls still stand,
the Dormitory of the Vicar’s Choral is and the church has an aisled nave,
St Cormac’s Chapel, a Romanesque a choir and transepts with a 15th-
VISITING CASHEL masterpiece with superb carvings century tower over the crossing.
on the tympanum, containing the Look for a carved face protruding
Parking sarcophagus of Cormac the Bishop, from the tower.
There is a pay car park at the foot of a 12th-century King of Munster. ª From the stone pillars, retrace the
the Rock of Cashel, next to the Tourist The largest building on the Rock is route to Golden and then take a left
Information Office.
St Patrick’s Cathedral, burned in 1495 turn onto the N74, following signs
Tourist Information by the Earl of Kildare and again by a towards Tipperary. Once in Tipperary,
Main St, Cashel; 062 61333; www. Cromwellian army, when 3,000 take the R664 off Main Street. Follow
cashel.ie; open daily; Nov–Feb: Mon–
Fri only townfolk seeking sanctuary were the road for a short distance then turn
roasted to death by Lord Inchoquin, right at a traffic island, following
Brú Ború Cultural Centre
Cashel; 062 61122 ; http://bruboru.ie; one of Cromwell’s generals. Look out signs for the Tipperary Golf Club.
open mid-Jun–Aug: Tue–Sat, Sep– for the panels of three 16th-century Continue to the Christ the King statue
mid-Jun: Mon-Fri tombs in the north transept of the and the entrance to the Glen of
cathedral, decorated with intricate Aherlow Nature Park. Park at the foot
carvings of vine-leaf designs and of the statue.
WHERE TO STAY IN CASHEL stylized beasts. Next to the cathedral,
the 28-m (92-ft) Round Tower dates Below The ruined 15th-century tower, nave and
Ashmore House inexpensive from the early 12th century. choir of Athassel Priory
Georgian townhouse with home
comforts. The rooms are bright and Beyond the ramparts of the Rock
spacious, and some have views over (a 2-km/1-mile walk across the fields)
the award-winning garden. is Hore Abbey, which affords one of
John St ; 062 61286; the best views of the Rock.
www.ashmorehouse.ie
In Cashel itself, in the grounds of the
Cashel Palace Hotel expensive Protestant cathedral on John’s Street,
Set within peaceful gardens, this is the Bolton Library. Owing to the
was once the archbishop’s palace. poor conditions within, the library’s
Centrally located with high quality rich collection of antiquarian books
accommodation and impressive
attention to detail. was transferred to Limerick University
Main St; 062 62707; in 2016; meantime, an exhibition on
www.cashel-palace.ie the history of the library is planned.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

090-093_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 90 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 7: Tipperary’s Holy Glen 91



Tipperary
VISITING GLEN OF AHERLOW
NATURE PARK
Stone
Cottage Parking
Christ the There is a car park at the Christ the
King Statue
King Statue, the entrance to the Glen
of Aherlow Nature Park.
Stone Bridge
Glen of Aherlow Information Centre
Maps and information on the Glen.
Glen of Aherlow Faílte Society, Coach
Road; 062 56331; www.aherlow.com;
open Jun–Aug: Mon-Sat; Sep–May:
Mon–Fri
0 metres 400
Aherlow Lodge EAT AND DRINK IN CASHEL
Hotel
0 yards 400
Newtown The Bakehouse inexpensive
A bakery with a café upstairs, opposite
the Tourist Information Office. Offers
3 Glen of Aherlow Nature Park well-prepared unfussy food.
Main St; 062 61680; closes 5:30pm
The Glen of Aherlow, a 25-km (15-mile) long valley dotted with Feehan’s Bar inexpensive
megalithic and early Christian sites, runs from Galbally in the west to This pleasant pub serves up home-
Bansha in the east. Within the valley, the Christ the King statue is a made soups, steak sandwiches and
major landmark and the starting point for a network of hiking trails more. Takeaway also available.
Main St; 062 61929
in the Glen of Aherlow Nature Park. It is said that the statue’s raised Chez Hans expensive
hand bestows a blessing on all who pass. Fine food served in the unusual setting
of an old church. A signature dish is
One- to two-hour walk beautiful forest glade, mountain the cassoulet of seafood. Next door,
Café Hans offers more informal dining.
One of several trails in the nature stream and stone bridge 2. Cross Moore Lane; 062 61177;
park, Bianconi Forest Walk is a 7-km the bridge and follow the wide track www.chezhans.net; closed Sun & Mon
(4-mile) loop. It is glorious at all times as it snakes to a T-junction. Turn right
of the year, but especially in spring, and follow the path to a paved road.
when the woods – a habitat for red To the left is the Aherlow Lodge Below View over the glorious Glen of Aherlow
squirrels – are filled with Hotel 3, a good stop for with the Galtee Mountains in the background
bluebells and primroses. refreshments. Turn right,
From the car park near the follow the road up a steady
Christ the King statue 1, rise for 1 km (half a mile),
walk up to the display board taking in the views of the
above the picnic area. The glen. At the T-junction turn
Bianconi Walk is marked by right and walk downhill,
a blue arrow. Entering the with a clear view of
forest, follow the path down Galtymore, the highest
stone steps, over a wooden peak in the Galtee
bridge and turn right. When Mountains. Leave the road
the path divides after about and re-enter the forest. The
300 m (984 ft), veer left, path leads down to a
pausing to read the first of crossroads. On the left,
a series of poems on a The Christ the stone steps lead up to the
tree trunk. King statue ruins of an old stone
Continue along the path cottage 4 from the famine
to a stone stile. Cross this and turn era (1845–70). Follow the path back
left along a broad path, shaded by to the start.
oak and ash trees – once part of the ª From the Christ the King statue
old Bianconi coach route from follow the R664 to Newtown (3 km/2
Tipperary to Limerick, named after miles). At the T-junction, turn right
Charles Bianconi, who founded onto the R663, signposted Galbally.
public transport in Ireland with a Just outside Newtown, after the
carriage service from Clonmel to Glen Hotel, follow the left sign for
Cahir in 1815. Walk down the hill to a Clonbeg Church.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


090-093_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 91 11/09/17 12:29 pm

92 BACK ROADS IRELAND


5 Moore Abbey
Co Tipperary
On the western end of the Aherlow
Valley, Moore Abbey was founded
in 1204 by Donough O’ Brien, King
of Thomond (North Munster).
Repeatedly destroyed by the
Desmond and Ormonde dynasties, it
took 300 years to build. The remains
date mainly from the 15th century.
Carry on along the R663 to
Galbally, a quiet town centring
on a large square with a statue
commemorating republican heroes.
Just outside town on Duntryleague
Hill is Darby’s Bed, a megalithic
Above The Swiss Cottage at Cahir, a cottage passage tomb. To get there take the
ornée designed by John Nash 4 Clonbeg Church narrow road (behind the statue) off
Co Tipperary Galbally’s main square. The tomb is a
This 18th-century Church of Ireland 15-minute walk from the car park.
chapel is unusual in having both a ª From Galbally return to Newtown
Catholic and Anglican burial ground. and continue east towards Bansha.
It is built on the site of a church After 3 km (2 miles) turn right onto
founded by St Sedan – the ivy-clad an unclassified road signposted
remains of an earlier church can still Rossadrehid (7 km/4 miles).
be seen – and is notable for St Immediately after the first crossroads,
Sedan’s Well, situated in the far right- pull in and park in front of cottage on
hand corner of the graveyard. The the right-hand side of the road. To find
water from the well is noted for its the Kyle, follow the path to the right of
healing properties, in particular for the cottage, climb over a stile and
treating eye ailments. People visiting follow a rough path across the field.
the well tie “clooties” – pieces of
WHERE TO STAY clothing belonging to the sick – to Holy Wells
the birch tree behind the well.
AROUND CLONBEG CHURCH ª Return to main road (R663) The Glen of Aherlow has many holy
wells, many of them pre-dating
Ballinacourty House and Restaurant and turn left towards Galbally and Christianity in Ireland. Druids were
inexpensive Lisvernane. Moore Abbey is 4 km said to draw their power from
Eighteenth-century building with (2 miles) beyond Lisvernane. As the them. They continue to be
rooms and restaurant overlooking an road approaches the abbey it swings considered holy and to possess
inner courtyard. Camping and self- miraculous healing powers. Pilgrims
catering cottages attached. Located a right over a stone bridge. There is a often use a piece of cloth to wash
short distance north of Lisvernane on small parking bay on the right-hand the afflicted part of their body and
a minor road. side just past the abbey. then tie it to the tree overhanging
Glen of Aherlow; 062 56000; the well – usually an ash or
www.ballinacourtyhse.com whitethorn – as a prayer offering.
Aherlow House Hotel moderate
Former hunting lodge set in acres of
woodland. Elegant and comfortable 6 The Kyle
with beautiful views over the Galtee
mountains. Frequently has special Co Tipperary
offers. Situated just off the R663, a The oval enclosure known as the
short distance west of Newtown. Kyle was created to preserve a
Glen of Aherlow; 062 56153; collection of Celtic relics – grinding
www.aherlowhouse.ie stones, fragments of a cross and
CAHIR carvings – found on the site here. It
Cahir House Hotel moderate has also been used as a burial place
The former home of the Butler family, for unbaptized children.
this is a popular hotel complete with a To reach St Berrihert’s Well, walk
landscaped garden in the middle of past the Kyle, through the wooden
Cahir. Lively music session on Friday
evenings. gate and along a causeway over
The Square; 052 744 3000; Above The cemetry of the 18th century Clonbeg marshy ground. Follow the path to
www.cahirhousehotel.ie church some wooden steps and a bridge,
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


090-093_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 92 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 7: Tipperary’s Holy Glen 93


From the car park turn right along
Castle Street to the main square,
designed by the Victorian architect EAT AND DRINK
William Tinsley, and turn left along
Church Street for a medley of shops CAHIR
and cafés. At its end is St Paul’s, a The River House
Church of Ireland chapel also designed inexpensive–moderate
by John Nash in the early 1800s. Opposite the castle, this restaurant
ª Turn right from the car park and offers breakfast and lunch in a relaxing
drive to the top of Castle Street and setting. Good for homemade soups
and salads. View of castle from the
the main square. Turn left at the upper floor.
junction, following signs for Clonmel 1 Castle St; 052 744 1951; closes 5pm;
(16 km/10 miles). www.riverhouse.ie
Lava Rock moderate
Above The Main Guard in Clonmel, built as a 8 Clonmel Modern and bright restaurant offering
courthouse by the Earl of Ormonde Co Tipperary mouthwatering plates like crayfish
This is Tipperary’s most important brûlée and oven-roast quail.
Castle St; 052 744 5359; www.
and turn left towards a second gate. market town and its bustling lavarockrestaurant.com; closed Mon
Through the gate veer right. The well atmosphere makes it a pleasant
is marked by a “rag tree”. According place to stroll around. Like many CLONMEL
to local legend, water from the well towns in the area, it was besieged Befani’s Mediterranean & Tapas
will not boil; it also protects from fire. by Cromwell in 1650, but was one Restaurant moderate
Stylish restaurant that is popular with
ª Continue in the same direction to of the few places that put up serious locals and discerning diners. The food
the N24. Turn right for Cahir. Park just resistance. The medieval West Gate is bold and flavoursome with such
past Cahir Castle, across the bridge. (rebuilt in 1831) leads to O‘Connell mainstays as cassoulet sausage and
Street, the main thoroughfare. A duck confit. Also provides
7 Cahir stone plaque in the gate accommodation.
6 Sarsfield St; 052 617 7893;
Co Tipperary commemorates Laurence Sterne, www.befani.com
The main attraction of this market author of the early comic novel
town is Cahir Castle (open daily), an Tristram Shandy, who was born in
Anglo-Norman stronghold of the Clonmel in 1713. Halfway down Below Quayside walk in Clonmel, a lively
Butler dynasty, Earls of Ormonde. It O’Connell Street, in Mary Street, St market town on the River Suir
was a formidable defence, although Mary’s Church contains one of the
Cromwell’s army breached its walls in oldest organs in Ireland, stained-glass
1650. The foundations, curtain walls windows by William Tinsley and
and keep are 13th-century; much of remnants of the original city walls.
the rest dates from the 15th and 16th At the east end of O’Connell Street,
centuries. Don’t miss the magnificent Main Guard, built as a courthouse in
Great Hall and the ramparts. 1675, houses the Tourist Information
A 2-km (1-mile) walk along the Centre (open Mon–Fri). Nearby, off
River Suir (signposted from the back pedestrianized Mitchell Street, Abbey
of the car park) leads to the Swiss Street leads to the Old Quay, where
Cottage (open Apr–Oct) a cottage the Franciscan Friary retains a 15th-
ornée designed by Regency architect century tower. At the end of Mitchell
John Nash for Richard Butler in 1810, Street, Emmet Street leads to Mick
and conceived as an ornamental Delahunty Square, with a statue of
retreat where the earl could entertain Clonmel’s favourite son, the tenor
guests. By the car park, Inch Field has Frank Patterson (1938–2000), and the
a fine view of the castle. County Museum (open Tue–Sat).

DAY TRIP OPTIONS rock. Be sure to get there early to Holy glen and holy wells
Cashel is the ideal base to explore avoid the crowds. Afterwards take in Combine a walk through the Glen of
the area’s two highlights. Cahir 7, a market town with a Aherlow Nature Park 3 with a drive
Fortified rock superb castle, or the historical town through its main valley, stopping at
One of Ireland’s top attractions, the of Clonmel 8. ruined abbeys, holy wells, villages
Rock of Cashel 1 is a fortified and megalithic tombs.
cathedral with towers, turrets and a From Cashel take the M8 to Cahir and
round tower rising straight out of the then the N24 to Clonmel. Follow drive’s instructions from Cashel.


Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €25; moderate €25–€50; expensive over €50


090-093_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 93 11/09/17 12:29 pm

BR_IR_094-095_Opener8.indd 94 23/10/09 14:24:55
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
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Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
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• Miles of beach
Wander Curracloe’s uncrowded sandy
beach, the longest in Ireland, keeping
an eye out for seals
• Rebel town
Explore the rebellious history of
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BR_IR_094-095_Opener8.indd 95 23/10/09 14:24:58
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96 BACK ROADS IRELAND

The Sunny Southeast Kilcormick
Kilcormick
Clondaw
Clondaw
Wexford’s mild maritime climate yields Ireland’s best strawberries and OULART HILLOULART HILL
Milehouse
potatoes and has made the county a favourite haunt of Dubliners who Milehouse
Oulart
want a retreat away from home. This drive includes a good stretch of ENNISCORTHYENNISCORTHY Derry Derry Oulart
the coastline, with long and unspoiled beaches and two world-class VINEGARVINEGAR Kilcotty
Kilcotty
sites for bird-watchers. There are many links along the route with the HILLHILL
Ballymurry
Davidstown
1798 Rebellion, which took place largely in Wexford (see p106). Davidstown Darbys Gap Ballymurry Courtclogh
Courtclogh
Darbys Gap
The southern end of the county is very rural, with thatched cottages Ballynastra Ballyvaldon
Ballynastra
Ballyvaldon
Ballynamona
and one of the last original windmills in Ireland. Glenbridge Ballynamona
Glenbridge
BLACKWATERBLACKWATER
Slaney Slaney Ballymurn Monroe
Ballymurn
Monroe
Bree Bree Ballyconnigar
Ballyconnigar
Oilgate Ballina
Oilgate
Ballina
Redgate Movilla
Redgate
Movilla
Ballyhoge
Ballyhoge
WEXFORD
WEXFORD
Curracloe
Crory Crory Curracloe
Kyle Kyle
Castlebridge
Cornwall
Cornwall Castlebridge CURRACLOE BEACHCURRACLOE BEACH
Crossabeg
Crossabeg
Balgan Wexfordord
Balgan
Wexf
Wildfowl
Ardcavan Wildfowl
Ardcavan
Reserve
Reserve
IRISH NATIONALIRISH NATIONAL Crosstown
Crosstown
The Raven Point
HERITAGE PARKHERITAGE PARK The Raven Point
WEXFORD TOWN
Rosslare Point
Knockeen
Knockeen WEXFORD TOWN Rosslare Point
Colestown Wexford ord
Colestown
Wexf
Shelmaliere
Shelmaliere Kerloge Harbour
Harbour
Kerloge
Commons
Ballintlea Commons
Ballintlea
Drinagh
Drinagh
Redmondstown
Redmondstown
Ballyshelin
Ballyshelin
Piercetown
Murntown Piercetown
Murntown
Waddingtown
Waddingtown
Killmacree
Killmacree
Fishguard,
Fishguard,
Cleristown Rosslare Pembrokeoke
Cleristown
Rosslare
Pembr
Walshestown
Above Tacumshane’s lovingly preserved windmill, dating from 1846, see p101 Walshestown
Rosslare Harbour
Killinick
Killinick Rosslare Harbour
Ambrosetown
Ambrosetown
Moor Moor Mayglass Tagoat Kilrane
Tagoat
Mayglass
Kilrane
Twelveacre
Greenore
Baldwinstown
Baldwinstown Ballycogly Twelveacre Greenore
Ballycogly
Point Point
Tenacre
Tenacre Cherbourg,
Cherbourg,
Duncormick
Duncormick
Bridgetown Roscoff
Roscoff
Bridgetown
Broadway
Broadway
Ballyhitt
ACTIVITIES Tomhuggard Ballyhitt
Tomhuggard
Park Park
TACUMSHANE
LADY’S ISLAND
Kilmore
Kilmore TACUMSHANE LADY’S ISLAND
LAKE
Walk the ridge of Oulart Hill, site of LAKE
Tacumshane
Lady’s
an important rebel victory in 1798 Newtown Tacumshane Lady’s Churchtown
Lake Lake
Island
Newtown
Island
Churchtown
Ballyteige e Ballyhealy Lake Lake
Ballyteig
Ballyhealy
Have a go at bodyboarding on B ay B ay Millroad
Millroad
Curracloe, Ireland’s longest beach
KILMORE QU
KILMORE QUAYAY Carnsore
Carnsore
Crossfarnoge
Listen to uplifting music during the Crossfarnoge Point Point
or Forlorn Point
or Forlorn Point
Wexford Festival Opera
Celtic Sea
Celtic Sea
Take a short boat ride to Great
Saltee Island to see its colony
Little Saltee
of puffins KEY Saltee Little Saltee
Island
Island
Saltee
Drive route Islands
Islands
Great Saltee
Great Saltee
Island
Island
096-097_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 96 13/10/17 1:18 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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(OpenType)
Date 03rd March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro

DRIVE 8: The Sunny Southeast 97

0 kilometres 4
Kilcormick
Kilcormick PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Clondaw
Clondaw 0 miles 4
Start/finish: Enniscorthy to Kilmore
OULART HILLOULART HILL
Milehouse Quay for the Saltee Islands.
Milehouse
Oulart
Oulart
ENNISCORTHYENNISCORTHY Derry Derry Number of days: 3, allowing half a
VINEGARVINEGAR day for a visit to the Saltee Islands.
Kilcotty
HILLHILL Kilcotty
Ballymurry
Davidstown
Davidstown Ballymurry Courtclogh Distance: 75 km (47 miles).
Courtclogh
Darbys Gap Road conditions: Larger roads are in
Darbys Gap
Ballynastra Ballyvaldon
Ballyvaldon
Ballynastra
Ballynamona good condition and well signposted.
Ballynamona
Glenbridge Smaller roads are often winding, so
Glenbridge
BLACKWATERBLACKWATER take care on bends.
Slaney Slaney Ballymurn Monroe When to go: All year round – Wexford
Ballymurn
Monroe
Bree Bree Ballyconnigar is famous for its mild climate. Opera-
Ballyconnigar
Oilgate Ballina lovers should go in October for the
Oilgate
Ballina
Movilla
Redgate Movilla
Redgate
Ballyhoge Wexford Festival Opera.
Ballyhoge
WEXFORD
WEXFORD Opening times: Shops open Mon–
Curracloe
Crory Crory Curracloe Sat from 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm.
Kyle Kyle Main market days: Enniscorthy: Sat;
Castlebridge
Cornwall
Cornwall Castlebridge CURRACLOE BEACHCURRACLOE BEACH
Crossabeg
Crossabeg Wexford Town: Fri.
Balgan Wexfordord Shopping: Fresh produce such as
Balgan
Wexf
Wildfowl
Ardcavan Wildfowl
Ardcavan
Reserve
Reserve artisan cheeses, hand-pressed apple
IRISH NATIONALIRISH NATIONAL Crosstown juice and dry-cured bacon are widely
Crosstown
The Raven Point
HERITAGE PARKHERITAGE PARK The Raven Point available. Wexford Town’s shops
WEXFORD TOWN
Rosslare Point
Knockeen
Knockeen WEXFORD TOWN Rosslare Point include a craftsman silver- and gold-
Colestown
Colestown Wexford ord smiths established in 1647.
Wexf
Shelmaliere Kerloge Harbour Major festivals: Enniscorthy:
Shelmaliere
Harbour
Kerloge
Commons
Ballintlea Commons Strawberry Festival, Jun; Wexford
Ballintlea
Drinagh
Drinagh
Redmondstown
Redmondstown Literary Festival, May; Wexford Town:
Ballyshelin Food and Wine Festival, May; Wexford
Ballyshelin
Festival Opera, Oct.
Piercetown
Murntown
Murntown Piercetown
Waddingtown
Waddingtown
Killmacree
Killmacree
Fishguard, DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Fishguard,
Cleristown
Cleristown Rosslare Pembrokeoke
Rosslare
Pembr
Walshestown Fans of Irish history will want to visit
Walshestown
Vinegar and Oulart hills, important
Killinick
Killinick Rosslare Harbour
Rosslare Harbour
Ambrosetown
Ambrosetown sites of the 1798 rebellion; while bird-
Mayglass
Tagoat
Moor Moor Mayglass Tagoat Kilrane
Kilrane
Twelveacre
Greenore
Baldwinstown
Baldwinstown Ballycogly Twelveacre Greenore watchers and nature lovers should
Ballycogly
Point Point
Tenacre
Tenacre Cherbourg, not miss the chance to visit Lady’s
Cherbourg,
Duncormick
Duncormick
Bridgetown Roscoff Island and Tacumshane lakes. For full
Roscoff
Bridgetown
Broadway
Broadway details, see p101.
Ballyhitt
Tomhuggard Ballyhitt
Tomhuggard
Park Park
TACUMSHANE
LADY’S ISLAND
Kilmore TACUMSHANE LADY’S ISLAND Below Wexford Town Harbour, bustling with
Kilmore
LAKE
LAKE
Tacumshane Lady’s fishing boats and pleasure craft, see p100
Tacumshane
Lady’s
Island
Newtown Lake Lake Island Churchtown
Newtown
Churchtown
Ballyteig
Ballyhealy
Ballyteige e Ballyhealy Lake Lake
B ay B ay Millroad
Millroad
KILMORE QUAYAY Carnsore
KILMORE QU
Carnsore
Crossfarnoge
Crossfarnoge Point Point
or Forlorn Point
or Forlorn Point
Celtic Sea
Celtic Sea
Little Saltee
Little Saltee
Island
Saltee
Saltee Island
Islands
Islands
Great Saltee
Great Saltee
Island
Island
096-097_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 97 11/09/17 12:29 pm

98 BACK ROADS IRELAND


2 Vinegar Hill
Enniscorthy, Co Wexford
This was the principal camp for the
insurgents who took the town of
Enniscorthy in May 1798. In June,
they were surrounded by 20,000
troops; many were massacred, and
the rest escaped through a gap in
the British lines. The windmill used
as a fort still stands, and there are
great views across the country, to
Enniscorthy and over to Oulart Hill.
ª Return towards Enniscorthy and
take the R744 in the direction of
Blackwater. When the road veers
right, take the fork to the left,
signposted for Oulart. The narrow
road passes through pleasant
farming country to the village of
Oulart. Turn left, then left again
before the church, then up a long
straight road to the top of the hill,
where there is a car park.
Above Enniscorthy, with the spire of its
magnificent cathedral Above top right 1 Enniscorthy Artisan food
Pastoral landscape near Curracloe Above Co Wexford Enniscorthy and Wexford markets
right Enniscorthy’s 13th-century castle An attractive market town on the are the best places to find artisan
hilly west bank of the River Slaney, produce from the county’s farmers.
Enniscorthy was a focal point Carrigbyrne’s St Killian (voted Best
of the 1798 Rebellion. After a victory Irish Cheese at the 2007 World
Cheese Awards) and Irish Brie, made
against the British here, insurgency in Adamstown west of Wexford
spread through the region. St Aidan’s Town, are excellent, as are the juices
Cathedral (open daily), by Augustus from Ballycross Apple Farm, in
Welby Pugin, is a mid-19th-century Bridgetown near Kilmore Quay.
Gothic Revival building of superb
quality. The 13th-century castle on
which the town was founded has 3 Oulart Hill
been restored as a local history Oulart, Co Wexford
museum (open daily). In May 1798, the day before the
ª Leaving Enniscorthy, cross the rebels stormed Enniscorthy, a small
river to the eastern side and follow insurgent force under Father John
WHERE TO STAY
the signs for Vinegar Hill, which Murphy defeated the British on
overlooks the town. Oulart Hill. A short walk from the car
AROUND ENNISCORTHY
Anam Cara moderate Below View over Enniscorthy towards Oulart Hill from Vinegar Hill
High-end guesthouse located half a mile
(1 km) northwest of town, with five
beautifully appointed rooms, some of
which overlook the lush gardens.
Wonderful hospitality.
Carraigabruce, Enniscorthy; 087 223
0332; www.anamcaraguesthouse.com
Monart expensive
A most luxurious destination spa,
set in 40 ha (100 acres) just northwest
of Enniscorthy, Monart encourages its
guests to connect with themselves
and the landscape by immersion in
relaxation therapy, wandering in the
gardens and eating sumptuous meals.
The Still, Enniscorthy;
053 923 8999; www.monart.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


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