(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 8: The Sunny Southeast 99


park passes along the brow of the
hill, on a path marked with stones
engraved with the names of people
and places associated with the 1798
Rebellion in Wexford. At the end is
Tulach a’ tSolais (meaning “mound of
light”), a grassy mound bisected by
a striking and austere concrete
memorial, erected to commemorate
the bicentenary of the Rebellion,
designed by leading architect Ronald
Tallon and enclosing an oak sculpture
by Michael Warren. The central shaft
of the monument, cut through the
hill, is aligned with Vinegar Hill. There
are great views of the surrounding Above Typical Wexford-style thatched cottage
countryside and Wexford Bay. 5 Curracloe Beach near Blackwater village
ª Return to Oulart village and turn Co Wexford
left. At the junction with the R741 turn The D-Day landing scenes in Steven
right. At the junction with the R744 Spielberg’s film Saving Private Ryan
turn left, heading for Blackwater. were shot on Curracloe’s 16 km
(10 miles) of golden sands. The easy,
4 Blackwater waymarked Raven Point Loop trail here
Co Wexford passes through an area that is home to
This village features many of the grey seals and wild orchids. Stay on the
thatched cottages for which path and allow at least two
County Wexford is famous, hours. The Wexford Wildfowl
some decorated in Reserve (open daily),
patterns with seashells. where thousands of birds
Turn left, then right, overwinter, is nearby.
down a pretty road with ª Take the R742 to the
more thatched cottages, junction with the R741
to reach Ballyconnigar. Curracloe village (signposts point left to the
The beach here runs all farm sign Wildfowl Reserve). Cross
the way to Wexford Town. the bridge at Wexford,
ª Return to Blackwater and head turn right onto the R730 towards the
south on the R742, signed Curracloe. N11, then take the left turn signed to
Take a left turn signed to Bently Cottage/ the Irish National Heritage Park.
Ballinesker down a narrow road through
sand dunes to Curracloe Beach. 6 Irish National
Heritage Park
Below The dunes behind sandy Curracloe Beach, Ferrycarrig, Co Wexford
location for the film Saving Private Ryan A trail within the 14 ha (35 acres)
of the park (open daily) takes visitors
through superb reconstructions
of Irish settlements dating from
the Stone Age to the arrival of the
Normans in the 12th century.
ª Return to the R730 towards EAT AND DRINK IN
Wexford Town. Turn left for Wexford ENNISCORTHY
Town and park on the quayside. Toffee and Thyme inexpensive
A busy, bright lunch place serving
Wexford Wildfowl wholesome, home-cooked food.
Around 10,000 Greenland white- 24 Rafter St; 053 923 7144
fronted geese overwinter here, but Via Veneto moderate
others to look out for in the marshes A good, authentic Italian restaurant
and grasslands include dunlins, offering fish and rice dishes, polenta,
godwits, plovers, scoters, pochards broths and stews as well as pasta.
and shovelers, and listen out for Stylish and informal.
warblers and cuckoos in season. 58 Weafer St; 053 923 6929;
www.viaveneto.ie; closed Tue
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


098-101_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 99 11/09/17 12:29 pm

100 BACK ROADS IRELAND

7 Wexford Town
Co Wexford
This handsome walled town at the mouth of the River Slaney was
founded by the Norsemen in the 9th or 10th century and, in the
12th century, it was the first Irish town to be captured by the Anglo-
Normans. The charming quays of Wexford’s once-thriving port are
now given over to recreation, and the pretty, narrow streets tucked
behind it are full of shops, museums, and sights of historic interest.

A one-hour walking tour erected in 1905, is by Oliver Sheppard.
From the Tourist Office 1 walk Carry on up North Main and Selskar
along Crescent Quay to the statue of streets into Westgate to the Abbey
Commodore John Barry, father of the of the Holy Sepulchre 7 (open daily),
US Navy, who was born near here in the remains of a 14th-century church
1745. Go back to the tourist office, of the Augustinian Priory. It was here
turn up Oyster Lane and then right, that the English king Henry II is said
Above Striking statue of a Pikeman of the left and right again, onto High Street. to have spent Lent of 1172 doing
1798 Rebellion, Wexford Town On the right is the Opera House 2, penance for the murder of Thomas à
(see box) hidden behind a façade of Becket. To return to the car park, walk
terraced houses. Turn back to the first down Westgate to Wellington Place,
VISITING WEXFORD TOWN corner, then right into Mary Street and along the quays, pausing to admire
Parking and up to School Street, where the the striking modern bridge on the way.
Paid parking on Paul Quay near the mainly 18th-century Franciscan Friary ª Leave Wexford on the R730, then
Tourist Office. 3 holds a relic of St Adjutor, the take the N25 south to Tagoat,
Tourist information Roman boy-martyr. Walk along School then turn right and follow the signs
Crescent Quay; 053 912 3111; Street and turn right to Rowe Street. to Lady’s Island Lake.
visitwexford.ie; open Mon–Sat The Church of the Immaculate
Conception 4 was built in1858 to a Wexford Opera Festival
VISITING GREAT SALTEE ISLAND
design by architect Robert Pierce, Each autumn, Wexford Town’s streets
a pupil of Pugin. Walk down Rowe are packed with opera fans from
Boats to Great Saltee leave Kilmore
Quay mid morning in fine weather. Street to North Main Street and turn around the world. Founded in 1951,
left. At the junction of North Main, the Festival often showcases little-
Abbey and Common Quay streets is known or neglected works. In 2008,
WHERE TO STAY the Bullring 5, scene of bull-baiting a superb new dedicated opera
house opened, reinforcing the
in Roman times, and of a massacre in Festival’s status as a musical event
WEXFORD TOWN 1649 by Cromwell’s men. The imp- of global stature and importance.
Clayton Hotel Whites moderate ressive figure of a 1798 Pikeman 6,
This well-loved hotel has been
renovated and modernized, with first-
class facilities such as an indoor pool Below The Wexford Town’s quays, as seen from across the estuary of the River Slaney
and a tranquillity spa.
Abbey St; 053 912 2311;
www.claytonwhiteshotel.com
AROUND WEXFORD TOWN
Killiane Castle moderate
At this stunning castle and working
farm guests can watch cows being
milked, lambs being born, and even
use the golf driving range. Lovely
rooms. Excellent breakfasts are served.
Drinagh, Wexford; 053 915 8885;
www.killianecastle.com
KILMORE QUAY
Quay House inexpensive
This pleasant, bright B&B is especially
popular with fishermen.
053 912 9988; www.quayhouse.net
Hotel Saltees moderate
A modern hotel with its own restaurant
(open Jun–Sep only) and a nice bar.
053 912 9601; www.hotelsaltees.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


098-101_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 100 11/09/17 12:29 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 8: The Sunny Southeast 101


0 metres 200

Abbey of the SKEFFINGTON ST 0 yards 200
Holy Sepulchre S ELS K AR ST R EE T WEXFORD
WELLINGTON PLACE
SELSKAR AVE MONCK STREET COMMERCIAL QUAY HARBOUR BRIDGE
WESTGATE TEMPERANCE ROW
GEORGE STREET NORTH MAIN STREET CHARLOTTE ST R i v e r S l a n e y


UPPER JOHN STREET
Pikeman
ABBEY STREET
CHURCH STREET
S T J O H N ’ S R O A D LOWER JOHN ST R EE T JOHN’S GATE ST Bullring COMMON QUAY STREET
CUSTOM HOUSE QUAY
A N N E S T R E E T
Church of the ROWE STREET NO R TH MA I N S T R E E T Above The Gothic Revival mansion of
Immaculate Conception Tourist Johnstown Castle, with its glorious gardens
Opera C R E S C E N T Q U AY
House Office
MARY ST H I G H S T R E E T HENRIETTA ST
HA RP ER S LA NE
WAT ER LOO R O A D Franciscan PETERS S TREET OYST E R L A N E QAU Y PAU L
Friary
SCHOOL STREET
EAT AND DRINK
SOUTH MAIN ST
8 Lady’s Island Lake American waders, and rare breeds can WEXFORD TOWN
Co Wexford be seen all year. In Tacumshane village Westgate Design inexpensive
Lady’s Island Lake is a saltwater there is a fine windmill, dating from The restaurant in this superb crafts and
lagoon, separated from the sea by a 1846 and one of the last in Ireland. Ask design centre serves tasty, generous,
barrier of sand and shingles. It is an for the key to see inside it at the home-cooked local dishes.
22 North Main Street; 053 912 3787;
internationally important site for friendly pub nearby, the Millhouse. www.westgatedesign.ie
breeding terns, including the rare ª Return to the R736 and turn left
roseate tern, and home to many onto it, then left onto the R739 Cistin Eile moderate
Cosy, informal restaurant serving rustic
species of migrating birds. The island, signposted for Kilmore Quay. Irish fare such as Wicklow venison.
linked to the mainland by a causeway, Good spot for a glass of wine too.
is named for an abbey dedicated to 0 Kilmore Quay 80 South Main Street; 053 912 1616;
the Virgin Mary. Now in ruins, it has for Co Wexford closed Sun
centuries been a place of pilgrimage. This pretty seaside village, with many TACUMSHANE
Off the coast to the east is Tuskar old thatched cottages, is an important The Millhouse inexpensive
Rock, with its 19th-century lighthouse. fishing port and holiday resort. It is Next to the windmill, this family-run
ª The roads are narrow, winding and also the departure point for Great pub offers hearty fare and, intriguingly,
rarely signposted. To avoid getting lost, Saltee Island, Ireland’s most important a Peking Asian street food menu.
return to Tagoat, turn left on R736, left bird sanctuary, just off the coast. 053 53 913 1700; www.millhousebar.ie
again when signposted for Tacumshane. The Saltees are home to important KILMORE QUAY
colonies of gannet, guillemot, puffin, Silver Fox Seafood Restaurant
9 Tacumshane razorbill and fulmar. There is also a moderate
Co Wexford breeding colony of around 120 grey This first-rate restaurant serves a wide
Tacumshane Lake is another salt-water seals. The islands are privately owned range of locally sourced seafood, such
lagoon, cut off from the sea by a storm but day visitors are welcome on as Dublin Bay prawns, black sole and
lobster, which is complemented by a
beach. The exceptionally diverse Great Saltee, and boat trips run daily stellar wine menu.
waterfowl population includes vagrant in good weather from Kilmore Quay. 053 912 9888; www.thesilverfox.ie
DAY TRIP OPTIONS two important sites of the 1798 Birders’ paradise
This is a region of great significance in Rebellion, are close together, and For rich wildlife, visit Lady’s Island
Irish history. It also offers the country’s offer panoramic views. The drive Lake 8, Tacumshane 9 and then
best birdwatching opportunities. Kilmore Quay 0 for a trip to Great
between them is on pretty country
Rebel views roads. Pack a picnic of great local fare. Saltees.
From a base in Enniscorthy 1, Follow the directions in the itinerary
Vinegar Hill 2 and Oulart Hill 3, Follow the directions in the itinerary. from Wexford Town to Kilmore Quay.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


098-101_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 101 11/09/17 12:29 pm

BR_IR_102-103_Opener9.indd 102 23/10/09 14:25:25
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104 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Carlow’s Hidden Treasures

County Carlow is out of the way of the usual tourist trails and is rarely
explored by foreign tourists, or even visitors from elsewhere in Ireland, but
there are secrets to be discovered on this drive through lushly wooded
countryside. The county is crossed by lovely waterways, including the rivers
Barrow, Slaney and Derry, affording ample opportunities for peaceful
Tankardstown
walks or even a spot of fishing. Tankardstown
Derren Derren
Slaney
Slaney
Killalongf
TULLOW Killalongfordord
TULLOW
RATHGALL
RATHGALL Killabeg
Killabeg
Kilquiggin
Kilquiggin
Rathtoe
Rathtoe
Crab Lane
Crab Lane
Cross Roads
Cross Roads
WICKLOW
WICKLOW
Graiguealug
Graiguealug Aghowlewle
Agho
SHILLELAGH
Arda
Ardattinttin SHILLELAGH
Black
Blacklionlion
Moylisha
Carrickslaney Moylisha
Carrickslaney
Coolattinttin
Coola
Ballybrommell ALTAMONT GARDEN
Ballybrommell
ALTAMONT GARDEN
Curraghagh
Curr
Ballon Coolroe
Ballon
Coolroe
Above Tullow Museum, in a Newry Shillelagh Shillelagh Tomacork
Tomacork
Newry
former chapel beside the Leighlinbridge Raheenkillane
Leighlinbridge
Raheenkillane
River Slaney, see p106 Kilbride Slaney
Kilbride
Fennagh
Fennagh
Slaney
Kildreenagh
Kildreenagh Derry Mine Mine
Barrow
Barrow
Derry
Clashavey
Clashavey Glennashouk
Glennashouk
BAGENALSTOWN
BAGENALSTOWN
(Muine Bheag)
(Muine Bheag)
CARLOW CLONEGAL Watch House Village
CARLOW
CLONEGAL
Carrig Beg Watch House Village
Carrig Beg
MYSHALL
MYSHALL
Johnstown
Kildavin Johnstown
Kildavin
Coolmela
Coolmela
Carrig More
Carrig More
Milltown
Milltown
Raheenleigh Corrabut Gap
Raheenleigh
Corrabut Gap
Corries Cross
Corries Cross
Drumfea
Kilgraney Drumfea BUNCLODY
BUNCLODY
Kilgraney
Clonmullen
Clonmullen
0 kilometres 3
Ninestones
0 miles 3 Ninestones Clohamon
Clohamon
Killoughternane
Killoughternane
Camteige
Camteige
Kilmyshall
Kilmyshall
ACTIVITIES WEXFORD
WEXFORD
Mount Leinster
Tomduff Mount Leinster Black Rock Mount
Tomduff
Black Rock Mount
796m 796m 601m 601m
Stroll around the hilly town of Tullow where leaders
of the 1798 Rebellion were executed in the square
Rossard
Rossard
Play a round of golf at Tullow’s magnificent Mount
Wolseley course
Get inspiration for your garden from the romantic
landscapes of Altamont
Take to the River Barrow for a fishing trip
Kiltealy
Kiltealy
104-105_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 104 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 9: Carlow’s Hidden Treasures 105

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
KEY
Start/finish: Tullow to Bagenalstown.
Drive route
Number of days: 2 days.
Distance: 72 km (45 miles).
Road conditions: Most roads are in
Tankardstown
Tankardstown good condition, with larger roads well
signposted. Mostly flat country, with
Derren Derren modest hills near Tullow and an open
Slaney
Slaney
Killalongf
TULLOW
TULLOW Killalongfordord mountain road around Mount Leinster.
When to go: Spring and summer are
RATHGALL Killabeg mild and frequently sunny; this is a
RATHGALL
Killabeg
Kilquiggin
Kilquiggin lovely time to visit Altamont Garden.
Rathtoe Autumn is quieter, with spectacular
Rathtoe
Crab Lane colour in the trees.
Crab Lane
Cross Roads
Cross Roads
WICKLOW Opening times: Opening hours are
WICKLOW
generally 9 or 10am to 5 or 6pm.
Graiguealug Aghowlewle Most shops close on Sundays, except
Graiguealug
Agho
SHILLELAGH
Ardattinttin SHILLELAGH convenience stores. Catholic churches
Arda
Blacklionlion are usually open all day.
Black
Moylisha
Carrickslaney Moylisha
Carrickslaney
Coolattinttin
Coola
Ballybrommell ALTAMONT GARDEN Main market days: Carlow Town: Sat.
Ballybrommell
ALTAMONT GARDEN
Curraghagh
Curr
Ballon Coolroe Major festivals: Carlow: Carlow Arts
Ballon
Coolroe
Tomacork
Newry
Newry Shillelagh Shillelagh Tomacork Festival, Jun; Carlow Garden Festival,
Leighlinbridge Jul; Tullow: Tullow Agricultural Show,
Leighlinbridge
Raheenkillane
Raheenkillane
Kilbride
Kilbride Slaney Aug; Bagenalstown: Carlow Farmers’
Fennagh
Fennagh
Slaney
Kildreenagh Derry Mine Point-to-Point Races, May;
Kildreenagh
Barrow
Barrow
Derry
Clashavey Glennashouk Bagenalstown Festival, Jul.
Mine
Clashavey
Glennashouk
BAGENALSTOWN
BAGENALSTOWN
(Muine Bheag)
(Muine Bheag)
CARLOW CLONEGAL Watch House Village DAY TRIP OPTIONS
CARLOW
CLONEGAL
Carrig Beg Watch House Village
Carrig Beg
MYSHALL Garden enthusiasts could spend a
MYSHALL
Johnstown
Kildavin
Kildavin Johnstown
Coolmela whole day at Altamont. More active
Coolmela
Carrig More visitors will enjoy the challenge of
Carrig More
Milltown
Milltown
climbing Mount Leinster, while
Shillelagh to Clonegal is a pleasant
Raheenleigh Corrabut Gap river drive, with a castle to visit at the
Raheenleigh
Corrabut Gap
Corries Cross
Corries Cross
Drumfea
Kilgraney Drumfea BUNCLODY end, for those interested in nature
Kilgraney
BUNCLODY
Clonmullen
Clonmullen
and history. For details, see p109.
Ninestones
Ninestones Clohamon Below The River Slaney in lush countryside
Clohamon
Killoughternane
Killoughternane outside Bunclody, see p107
Camteige
Camteige
Kilmyshall
Kilmyshall
WEXFORD
Mount Leinster
Tomduff Mount Leinster Black Rock Mount WEXFORD
Tomduff
Black Rock Mount
796m 796m 601m 601m
Rossard
Rossard
Kiltealy
Kiltealy
104-105_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 105 11/09/17 11:38 am

106 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Tullow ª Carry on along the side road until
Co Carlow it rejoins the R725. Continue through
A handsome small market town by the lovely wooded country to the estate
River Slaney, with some fine old stone village of Shillelagh.
town houses and shops, Tullow is
known locally as “the granite town”. On The 1798 Rebellion
the hilly main street is a monument The revolutionary United Irishmen
to two leaders of the 1798 Rebellion, planned a national revolt against
John Gallagher and Father John British power in May 1798, when
Murphy, “most cruelly and barbarously sporadic uprisings took place in
parts of Leinster and Ulster. The
put to death by English soldiers on the only substantial rebellion occurred
square of Tullow”. The museum (Apr– in Wexford, where the insurgents
Sep: Tue–Fri pm, Sun pm; volunteer-staffed displayed great fortitude and the
so hours may vary), in a former chapel fighting lasted until July.
beside the River Slaney, tells their story.
The Tullow Agricultural Show in August
is a major livestock show, famous for its 3 Shillelagh
enormous prize bulls. Co Wicklow
Above Tullow Museum, which tells the events ª From Tullow take R725 (Shillelagh Shillelagh is an attractive planned
of the 1798 Rebellion in Tullow Road) east. After 2 km (1 mile) turn left village with stone cottages and a
onto a narrow side road. After 2 km courthouse. Coolattin Park, 2 km
(1 mile), Rathgall stone fort is on the (1 mile) east, in whose estate Shillelagh
right, a short walk across a field. was set, was built in 1804 for Earl
Park at the gate and climb over it. Fitzwilliam, a former Lord Lieutenant
Be careful of cattle and be sure to close of Ireland. It is now a golf course. In
any gate that is opened en route. Tomnafinnoge Wood (3 km/2 miles
VISITING CARLOW AND northeast on the R749) are remnants
WICKLOW COUNTIES
2 Rathgall of one of the great ancient Irish oak
Tourist Information Co Carlow forests, which provided the roof
www.carlowtourism.com Unrestored and overgrown with briars, timbers for St Patrick’s Cathedral in
www.visitwicklow.ie this impressive prehistoric four-ring Dublin and Westminster Hall in London.
Bicycle Hire stone hill fort appears much as it has Shillelagh gives its name to the famous
Celtic Cycling rents bikes and arranges stood for thousands of years. The Irish oak cudgel, now more usually
itineraries and accommodation in the medieval outer walls encircle earlier made of blackthorn. It is possible to visit
perfect rolling cycling country of fortifications from the Bronze and Iron a traditional stickmaker’s yard in the
southeast Ireland.
Lorum Old Rectory; Ages, when spears, swords and shields village to see how they are made.
www.celticcycling.com were fashioned here. North of the fort ª From Shillelagh take R725 east.
are the impressive Harolds town Turn right after 4 km (2½ miles) on
Shillelagh Sticks
Old Shillelagh Stick Makers, Main Dolmen, while a stone circle to its east a minor road along the Derry river
Street, Shillelagh; 086 272 2913; is said to be the birthplace of the valley towards Watchhouse village,
www.oldshillelagh.com 5th-century Kings of Leinster. where you turn right for Clonegal.
WHERE TO STAY IN TULLOW
Ballyderrin House inexpensive
An old house attractively modernized,
this is a charming and comfortable
place to stay, just east of Tullow.
The nine bedrooms – four in the
main house and five garden rooms –
offer luxurious facilities.
Shillelagh Rd, Tullow; 059 915 2742;
www.ballyderrin.com
Mount Wolseley Hilton Hotel
expensive
A luxury hotel with spa, to the
southeast of Tullow, popular with
golfers who play the adjoining
18-hole championship course.
Mount Wolseley, Tullow; 059 918 0100;
www.mountwolseley.ie Above Cycling the peaceful, empty mountain roads that skirt Mount Leinster

Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


106-109_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 106 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 9: Carlow’s Hidden Treasures 107



















Above left Lush watermeadows and woods
4 Clonegal valleys and sea. Watch out for cloud. along the banks of the River Derry Above
Co Carlow ª From Nine Stones retrace the route Bicentennial memorial to those who died in
Clonegal, a pretty and particularly and drive back across the cattle grid the 1798 Rebellion in Bunclody
well-preserved village, marks the end to the junction with the main road.
of the Wicklow Way, a mountainous Turn left and follow the road as it
127-km (79-mile) trail that starts in descends. On the descent, take a right
Dublin. The surrounding countryside turn at the T-junction and continue on EAT AND DRINK
of wooded hills is very beautiful, and to Myshall.
the banks of the River Derry here are TULLOW
popular for fishing. The 17th-century 6 Myshall Rathwood moderate
Jacobean Huntington Castle (open Co Carlow The café-restaurant in this award-
May–Sep: daily) that adjoins the village This little village is noted for the winning garden centre is a good
place to take a break, and the food is
can be visited, and is said to be beautiful Adelaide Memorial wholesome and fresh. Pleasant
haunted. Within the grounds are a Church built in 1912 by John outside sitting area.
prehistoric megalith, an ancient yew Duguid of Dover, around the graves Rath, Tullow; 059 915 6285; closes
walk and a temple to Isis. of his wife and daughter. It is 5pm; www.rathwood.com
ª Go back across the River Derry to designed as a miniature of Salisbury CLONEGAL
Watch House and take the road right Cathedral and, among the exquisite Sha-Roe Bistro expensive
along the river through fine wooded features of the interior, the design This small restaurant in a fine 18th-
country; on reaching the R746, turn of the floor was taken from century house in an unspoilt village
right for Bunclody. St Mark’s in Venice. provides exceptional food and
ª Take R724 heading northeast and comfort. Imaginative cooking features
Bunclody take first road left, after 2 km (1 mile). Wexford lamb, local aged beef, fish
and cheeses. Booking recommended.
Co Wexford After crossing the N80 Altamont Main Street; 053 937 5636;
Bunclody, site of a bloody battle in the Garden is on the right. www.sha-roe.ie; closed Mon–Wed
1798 Rebellion, is a small and charming
town situated where the River Slaney
meets the River Clody at the foot of the
Blackstairs Mountains. A narrow canal
from the Clody flows down the middle
of its main street. The town is the best
base for climbing 795-m (2,610-ft)
Mount Leinster. To reach Mount
Leinster, leave Bunclody heading uphill
and turn left opposite the Wexford
Farmers’ Co-op. After 10 km (6 miles),
near Corrabut Gap, turn left for Nine
Stones. The road crosses a cattle grid
and there is fine scenery on both sides.
Park at the Nine Stones megalithic
alignment for the walk to the top. It’s a
steep climb, but the surfaced road
goes all the way, with spectacular
views of the surrounding mountains, Above Icons in niches on the pebble-dashed exterior of the Adelaide Memorial Church, Myshall
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


106-109_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 107 11/09/17 12:29 pm

108 BACK ROADS IRELAND


7 Altamont Garden
Ballon, Co Carlow
Altamont (open daily) is a natural
woodland garden of some 16 ha
(40 acres). The woodland walks and
granite steps leading up from the
River Slaney are thought to have been
designed by William Robinson. Called
“the most romantic garden in
Ireland”, it is now managed by the
state according to the principles of
Corona North, the last member of
the family to live there. There are
many mature trees, both native and
exotic, and walks take visitors along
the lawns and paths, by the pond
and down to the river. A highlight
in spring is one of Ireland’s largest
snowdrop collections.
ª Continue along the road to the N81.
Turn left, then right at the N80. Before
reaching Ballon, turn left, heading south.
At the R724, turn right to Bagenalstown.
Above Entrance of Altamont Garden Above
right Colourful herbaceous border in the
Robinsonian garden Above top right 8 Bagenalstown (Muine Bheag)
Overgrown doorway, Altamont Garden Co Carlow
This pretty market town on the River Barrow is now officially called
Muine Bheag, meaning “small thorn tree”, but is still widely known
by its old name. It was founded in the 18th century by Walter, Lord
VISITING BAGENALSTOWN Bagenal, who intended it to bear the name New Versailles. While not
(MUINE BHEAG) achieving this level of magnificence, the town does have notable
buildings, including a courthouse modelled on the Parthenon in
Parking
There is ample parking in town. Athens – the only part of Bagenal’s grand plans to be realized – and
a handsome 19th-century Neo-Classical railway station.
Tourist Information
www.ireland.com
A two–hour walking tour back is along a stretch of the Barrow
WHERE TO STAY This 8-km (5-mile) walk from Way, a walk trail that covers 114 km
Bagenalstown to Leighlinbridge (65 miles) in total, following the
AROUND ALTAMONT GARDEN (pronounced “lock-lin-bridge”) and canal and river towpaths of the
Sherwood Park House inexpensive
A short way northeast of Ballon, this is
a beautiful Georgian farmhouse.
Kilbride, Ballon; 059 915 9117;
www.sherwoodparkhouse.ie
AROUND BAGENALSTOWN
(MUINE BHEAG)
Kilgraney House moderate
A charming Georgian house
overlooking the Barrow valley. Two
courtyard suites complement the
elegant rooms in the main house.
The Drawing Room is a delight too.
Kilgraney (6 km/4 miles on the R705
from Bagenalstown); 059 977 5283;
www.kilgraneyhouse.com
Lorum Old Rectory moderate
A former Victorian rectory with elegant
rooms and a warm welcome. Above Picturesque ruins of medieval Ballymoon Castle, with its thick granite walls, standing majestically
Kilgraney; 059 977 5282;
www.lorum.com in fields to the east of Bagenalstown
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


106-109_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 108 11/09/17 12:29 pm
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DRIVE 9: Carlow’s Hidden Treasures 109


Barrow, the second-longest river in The Barrow Way
Ireland. The walk is best enjoyed in The Barrow Way extends from
the early morning or at dusk. Be sure Lowtown near Dublin in the north to
to look out for herons and St Mullins near Wexford in the south.
kingfishers along the tranquil At its southern end it rejoins the
waterway. Follow Barrow Way signs even longer and more mountainous
Wicklow Way (see p135). An easy, well-
north out of Bagenalstown 1. Pass marked walk through the counties
the charming “lifting bridge” linking of Carlow and Kildare in the eastern
the quayside with a wooded island region of Leinster, the Barrow Way
bird sanctuary and ruined watermill. wends its way from start to finish
The river sweeps on round to along the banks of canals and rivers
picturesque Rathellin Lock 2 and, through this largely flat region. Its
charms are both natural – walkers
further along, a brick-arched bridge may well spot hawks and hares as
leads to another island. The path they meander through fields of
then follows the side of the canal daisies, yarrow and mint – and man-
until a weir where the route rejoins made as the towpath skirts pretty Above Typically pretty local granite cottage at
the river. Georgian towns and mansions, Fennagh, between Ballon and Bagenalstown
Approaching Leighlinbridge there Norman castles and Cromwellian
battle sites. Waymarked Ways of
are views of Mount Leinster to the Ireland (www.irishtrails.ie) lists
right. By the splendid seven-arched suggestions for day- and half-day-
bridge in Leighlinbridge, the Black long walks along the route.
Castle 3 is a 14th-century tower, all
that remains of a castle built to river- and canal-side route, and finish
command the river crossing. Return the walk with the finest view of the
to Bagenalstown, along the same Grecian courthouse, along with the
town’s church spire
and tower.
In the fields east EAT AND DRINK
Black Castle
of Bagenalstown
LEIGHLINBRIDGE are the ruins of AROUND ALTAMONT GARDEN
Ballymoon Castle The Forge inexpensive
(a 3-km/2-mile A landmark stone building on the N80
drive along the near the turn-off for Altamont, this is a
R724 towards good place to stop for home-made
Fenagh), thought soup, sandwiches, scones and tea.
Kilbride Cross, Ballon; 059 915 9939;
to have been built www.theforgekilbride.ie; closed Mon
around 1300 by
River Barrow
Roger Bigod, one AROUND BAGENALSTOWN
Rathellin Lock (MUIN BHEAG)
of the 12th–13th-
century Earls of Lord Bagenal Hotel moderate
Norfolk, and later This well-known pub (4.5 km/3 miles
0 kilometres 1 on the R705 from bagenalstown)has
occupied by the expanded into a chic, modern hotel,
0 miles 1 Knights Templar. but retains its original, cosy wood-
Thick granite walls, panelled bar, complete with open fires.
Bagenalstown Hearty pub food is available, but there
two storeys high,
BAGENALSTOWN surround a huge is also a more formal restaurant in a
lovely setting beside the River Barrow.
courtyard 25-m Main Street, Leighlinbridge; 059 977
(80-ft) square. 4000; www.lordbagenal.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Altamont is signposted from the N81 From Bunclody, follow the itinerary to
Tullow, Bunclody and Ballon are ideal (left from Tullow, right from Ballon) and Nine Stones, then park and walk.
bases to visit the highlights of this area. the N80 (right from Bunclody).
Derry valley drive
Mount Leinster
Romantic gardens See Bunclody 5, then make the steep The road from Shillelagh 3 to
Explore the delights of Altamont but exhilarating climb to the top of Clonegal 4 runs through gorgeous
Garden 7, with a break for a Mount Leinster for spectacular views of scenery. End the day with a visit to
delicious, home-cooked lunch at the the surrounding mountains, the valleys fascinating Huntington Castle.
nearby Forge (see right). below and the sea in the distance. Follow the directions in the itinerary.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


106-109_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 109 11/09/17 12:29 pm

BR_IR_110-111_Opener10.indd 110 23/10/09 14:25:58
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 21st July 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

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112 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Loughs and Lighthouses Killimor
Killimor
Follow the majestic Shannon as it snakes towards the ocean, from the GAL W A Y
GAL W A Y
jagged shores of Lough Derg to the broad estuary that opens out at Abbey Abbey Earlstown Shannon Shannon
Earlstown
Ballyshrule
Limerick. This is an extraordinarily rich region, with pretty lakeside villages, Ballyshrule
smart marinas, a splendid city with medieval and Georgian quarters, and PORTUMNA
PORTUMNA
Portumna
Portumna
grand 18th-century country estates. This fertile valley has a long and Forest Park Carrigahorig
Forest Park
Carrigahorig
illustrious history; it was widely settled in megalithic times; the base of Woodford Terryglass
Terryglass
Woodford
Brian Boru, King of Ireland, in the 10th century; and in modern times the Gorteeny
Gorteeny
birthplace of Eamon de Valera, the founder of the Irish Free State. Mounta ins LOUGH Ballinderry
LOUGH Ballinderry
Mounta ins
Sli eve Aughty
Sli eve Aughty
Borrisokane
Connagh
Connagh Borrisokane
Scalp Scalp Whitegate Derg DERG
Coolbaun
379m 379m Coolbaun
Whitegate L o u g h Derg DERG
MOUNTSHANNON
Puckaun
MOUNTSHANNON L o u g h Puckaun Ardcrony
Ardcrony
Scarriff
Scarriff Dromineer
Dromineer
Tuamgraney
Tuamgraney
Garrykennedy
Garrykennedy
Lisgarode
Lisgarode
Bodyke
Bodyke
TIPPERAR Y
Portroe
Portroe TIPPERAR Y
Slieve
Slieve
Ber nagh
Arra
Ber nagh Mountains Nenagh
Arra
Nenagh
Mountains
Glennagalliagh
Glennagalliagh
Broadford 533m
Broadford 533m
Ballina
Ballina
KILLALOE
KILLALOE
Kilmurry
Kilmurry CLARE Silvermines
CLARE
Silvermines
Above left Rolling farmland in the fertile Shannon valley, see p119 Above right One of Birdhill
Birdhill
many picturesque cottages in the estate village of Adare, see pp118–19 Sixmilebridge O‘Briensbridge Slivermine Mts.
Sixmilebridge
Slivermine Mts.
O‘Briensbridge
Hurlers Cross
Keeper Hill
Hurlers Cross Keeper Hill
Shannon Cloonlara 694m 694m
Cloonlara
Shannon
Bunratty
Castleconnell
Shannon Airport
Killadysert
Killadysert Shannon Airport Bunratty Shannon Shannon Castleconnell Newport
Newport
River Shannon
River Shannon Lackamore
Lackamore
Knock Knock Ballysteen LIMERICK Lisnagry
LIMERICK
Lisnagry
Ballysteen
Killimer Labasheeda Glenstal
Killimer
Glenstal
Labasheeda
Pallaskenry
Pallaskenry CITY CITY Abbey
Abbey
Slievefelim
Mungret
Lakyle Lakyle FOYNES Mungret Slievefelim 465m
FOYNES
465m
Kilcornan
Kildimo
Loghill Loghill Kilcornan Kildimo
Abington
Abington
TARBERT Askeaton
TARBERT
Askeaton
Shanagolden
Glin Glin Shanagolden Patrickswell Cappamore
Cappamore
Patrickswell
Ballyneety
Creeves
Creeves Ballyneety
Ballylongford
Ballylongford Ballyhahill
Ballyhahill
Caherconlish
ADARE
Newbridge
Newbridge ADARE Caherconlish
Dromkeen
Dromkeen
Croagh
Fedamore
Rathkeale
Pallas Green
Newtown Sands Rathkeale Croagh Fedamore Pallas Green
Newtown Sands
GRANGE STONE CIRCLE
Carrigkerry
Carrigkerry Croom GRANGE STONE CIRCLE
Croom
Reens Reens
LIMERICK
Ardagh
Herbertstown
Ardagh LIMERICK Herbertstown
Deel Deel
HolycrossLOUGH
Holycross LOUGH
Ballingarry
Knockaderry
Knockaderry Ballingarry GUR GUR
Newcastle West
Newcastle West Maigue Maigue
Hospital
Bruff Bruff Hospital
ACTIVITIES Athlacca
Athlacca
Hike in the Portumna Forest Park Kilmeedy Rockhill Knocklong
Knocklong
Kilmeedy
Rockhill
on the shores of Lough Derg
BRUREE
Ballyagran
Ballyagran BRUREE
KILMALLOCK
Swim in the crystal-clear waters of KILMALLOCK
Lough Derg at Portumna or Terryglass,
or along the Lough Derg Drive 0 kilometres 10 Charleville
Charleville
Kilfinnane
Kilfinnane
Ardpatrick
Go fishing in Mountshannon, a 0 miles 10 Ardpatrick
popular base for anglers
112-113_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 112 12/09/17 12:12 pm
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DRIVE 10: Loughs and Lighthouses 113


Killimor
Killimor PLAN YOUR DRIVE
GAL W A Y
GAL W A Y Start/finish: Portumna to Tarbert.
Earlstown
Earlstown
Abbey Abbey Shannon Shannon Number of days: 2–3.
Ballyshrule
Ballyshrule
PORTUMNA Distance: 302 km (188 miles).
PORTUMNA
Portumna
Portumna
Forest Park Road conditions: Main roads are well
Forest Park
Carrigahorig
Carrigahorig
Terryglass
Woodford
Woodford Terryglass paved and signposted. Some smaller
roads are potholed.
Gorteeny
Gorteeny
LOUGH Ballinderry When to go: Although winters are
LOUGH Ballinderry
mild in southwest Ireland, May–Oct
Sli eve Aughty
Mounta ins
Sli eve Aughty
Borrisokane
Mounta ins
Connagh
Connagh Borrisokane is the best time to visit. To swim in
Scalp Scalp Whitegate Derg DERG
Coolbaun
379m 379m Coolbaun Lough Derg, visit in Jun–Aug.
Whitegate L o u g h Derg DERG Opening times: Most sights and
MOUNTSHANNON
Puckaun
MOUNTSHANNON L o u g h Puckaun Ardcrony attractions are open from 9 or 10am
Ardcrony
Scarriff
Scarriff Dromineer to 5 or 6pm, or dusk if earlier.
Dromineer
Tuamgraney
Tuamgraney
Garrykennedy Main market days: Limerick:
Garrykennedy
Lisgarode
Lisgarode
Bodyke Riverside Market, Sun noon–3pm,
Bodyke
Portroe
Portroe TIPPERAR Y Bedford Row; Milk Market, Sat am,
TIPPERAR Y
Slieve
Slieve
Ber nagh Mountains Nenagh Cornmarket Row.
Arra
Arra
Ber nagh
Nenagh
Mountains
Glennagalliagh
Glennagalliagh Major festivals: Limerick: River Fest,
Broadford 533m
Broadford 533m end Apr/beginning May; Adare:
Ballina
Ballina
KILLALOE
KILLALOE Village Festival, mid-May.
Kilmurry
CLARE
Kilmurry Silvermines
CLARE DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Silvermines
Birdhill
Birdhill
Slivermine Mts.
Sixmilebridge
Sixmilebridge O‘Briensbridge Slivermine Mts.
O‘Briensbridge
Enjoy a lazy day swimming and
Keeper Hill
Hurlers Cross
Hurlers Cross Keeper Hill boating in Portumna. Families can
Shannon
Cloonlara
Shannon Cloonlara 694m 694m take in a forest walk or view the
Bunratty
Castleconnell
Shannon Airport
Killadysert
Killadysert Shannon Airport Bunratty Shannon Shannon Castleconnell Newport lakeside gardens at Portumna Castle.
Newport
River Shannon
River Shannon Lackamore For history and culture, spend a
Lackamore
Lisnagry
Knock Knock Ballysteen LIMERICK Lisnagry morning in medieval and Georgian
LIMERICK
Ballysteen
Glenstal
Killimer Labasheeda Glenstal
Killimer
Labasheeda
Pallaskenry
Pallaskenry CITY CITY Abbey Limerick, and the afternoon seeing
Abbey
Slievefelim
Mungret
Lakyle Lakyle FOYNES Mungret Slievefelim 465m the megalithic sites around Lough
FOYNES
465m
Kildimo
Kilcornan
Loghill Loghill Kilcornan Kildimo Gur. For a scenic drive, focus on the
Abington
Abington
TARBERT
TARBERT Askeaton Shannon’s south bank from Foynes to
Askeaton
Shanagolden
Glin Glin Shanagolden Patrickswell Cappamore Tarbert. Take a picnic and visit two
Cappamore
Patrickswell
Ballyneety
Creeves
Creeves Ballyneety KEY museums. For full details, see p119.
Ballylongford Ballyhahill
Ballylongford
Ballyhahill
Caherconlish
ADARE
Newbridge ADARE Caherconlish Drive route
Newbridge
Dromkeen
Dromkeen
Croagh
Rathkeale
Fedamore
Pallas Green
Newtown Sands
Newtown Sands Rathkeale Croagh Fedamore Pallas Green Below A roadside sculpture forms part of the
GRANGE STONE CIRCLE
Carrigkerry
Carrigkerry Croom GRANGE STONE CIRCLE scenery near Adare, see pp118–19
Croom
Reens Reens
LIMERICK
Ardagh
Ardagh LIMERICK Herbertstown
Herbertstown
Deel Deel
HolycrossLOUGH
Holycross LOUGH
Knockaderry
Ballingarry
Knockaderry Ballingarry GUR GUR
Newcastle West
Newcastle West Maigue Maigue
Hospital
Bruff Bruff Hospital
Athlacca
Athlacca
Knocklong
Knocklong
Kilmeedy
Kilmeedy Rockhill
Rockhill
BRUREE
Ballyagran
Ballyagran BRUREE
KILMALLOCK
KILMALLOCK
Charleville
Charleville
Kilfinnane
Kilfinnane
Ardpatrick
Ardpatrick
112-113_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 113 12/09/17 12:12 pm

114 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Portumna Alternatively drive there (2 km/
Co Galway 1 mile) along the Gort Road (R353).
Surrounded by open farmland and Maps of its marked trails can be
forests, Portumna lies at the head of picked up at the entrance. There is a
Lough Derg, its bridge straddling the wide variety of birdlife in the park, as
Tipperary and Galway banks of the well as red squirrels and fallow deer.
Shannon. In summer, it plays host While visiting Portumna, it is also
to small groups of holidaymakers worth taking a look at Terryglass, a
cruising on the river. It has a lakeside pretty boating village with a couple
bathing spot, with picnic tables and of good restaurants (see right), just
a lifeguard (Jun–Aug), less than a around the bay, off the N65.
kilometre (half a mile) from the ª Exit Portumna on Shannon Road,
centre (signposted “Swimming Area” then follow R352 along the lakeshore.
from the Bank of Ireland).
Portumna’s main sight is Portumna 2 Lough Derg
Castle and Gardens (open Apr–Oct), Co Galway and Co Clare
reached by turning left opposite The section of Lough Derg between
Portumna Catholic Church in the Portumna and Mountshannon
Above Portumna Friary, a Dominican Friary centre of town (the entrance to the (around 40 km/21 miles) is sparsely
built over a Cistercian chapel castle is 300 m (984 ft) along on the populated. Views of the lake are
right; fork right after the Gate Lodge). largely obscured by trees, but two
A fortified mansion built in the early scenic detours off the R352 make
17th century for the De Burgo family, the drive worthwhile. Ten kilometres
the castle is undergoing continual (6 miles) from Portumna, at a
restoration, but the ground floor is crossroads, turn right at the sign for
open to visitors. The gardens are Lough Derg Drive leading to higher
known for the Renaissance Sun ground away from the lake but
Garden, laid out in a geometric offering better views. It reaches the
design in front of the house, a rare quaint village of Woodford before
VISITING MOUNTSHANNON
17th-century rose and a fully returning to the R352.
restored kitchen garden. Continue through Gorteeny and
Boat Trips to Holy Island
Between April and September, boat Return to the Gate Lodge and this 2 km (1 mile) before Whitegate,
trips to Holy Island are operated by time take the left fork to the marina where the road bends sharply left,
Ger Madden and leave from where there are picnic tables looking leave the main road by veering right
Mountshannon Harbour. Tickets can across Lough Derg. Nearby are the onto a narrow country lane. Drive
be bought from a kiosk on the pier.
Ger Madden; 061 921 615; ruins of Portumna Friary, a Cistercian straight for 2 km (1 mile) and turn left
www.holyisland.ie chapel extended by the Dominican at a cottage, crossing the R352 again.
order in the 15th century. Continue to the shore of the lake,
VISITING KILLALOE From the marina, it is possible to where there is a shallow area that is
AND BALLINA continue on foot to Portumna Forest good for swimming.
Park (open daily), a public forest park ª Return to the R352 , turn left and
Tourist Information
Brian Boru Heritage Centre, along the shore of Lough Derg. drive on to Mountshannon.
Killaloe; 360 788; open Apr–Sep: daily;
www.discoverkillaloe.ie
WHERE TO STAY
MOUNTSHANNON
Mountshannon Hotel inexpensive
A stone’s throw from the harbour, this
modest family-run hotel has a popular
restaurant and a cosy bar with an
open fire in winter.
Main St; 061 927 162; www.
mountshannon-hotel.ie
KILLALOE
Lakeside Hotel inexpensive–moderate
Popular for its location beside the lake,
this hotel features an indoor pool,
steam room and sauna.
061 376 122; www.lakesidehotel.ie Above The quay at Killaloe, a pleasant town on the banks of Lough Derg
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


114-119_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 114 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 10: Loughs and Lighthouses 115
















Above left Motor cruisers in Portumna
3 Mountshannon Marina, a popular springboard for boating on
Co Clare Brian Boru the Shannon Above The 17th-century bridge
Picturesque Mountshannon has an King of Munster and High King of linking the twin towns of Ballina and Killaloe
Ireland, Brian Boru is credited with
elevated position overlooking uniting Ireland’s clans and routing
Lough Derg. Long and linear, it was the Vikings. Born in Killaloe, he
conceived as a plantation town, earned his nickname Brian of the
intended for Protestant settlers; even Tribute (Boru), for the tributes he EAT AND DRINK
by the 1830s it didn’t have a single exacted, used mainly to rebuild
Catholic resident. Today it is a good monasteries ransacked by the AROUND PORTUMNA
base for exploring the surrounding Vikings. In 1014 – at the ripe old Paddy’s Bar inexpensive
age of 74 – the great warrior was
area and is popular with anglers. slain by a Viking as he prayed in his Congenial spot for good steaks,
burgers, fish and chips, and seafood
Solid 18th-century cottages line the tent at the Battle of Clontarf. chowder. See website for directions.
harbour, and it has several good Terryglass; 067 22147;
pubs, including Cois na h’Abhna bar www.paddysbar.ie
on Main Street (see right), which 4 Killaloe Derg Inn moderate
sometimes holds traditional music Co Clare and Co Tipperary Laid-back bar with comforting food in
sessions in summer. Information on The twin towns of Killaloe and Ballina the pretty village of Terryglass, 12 km
angling can be obtained in any of are actually in different counties, but (7 miles) from Portumna (head south
the town’s tackle shops. they face one another on opposite on the N65; turn right onto the R493).
Terryglass; 067 22037;
Boats to Holy Island, just 2 km banks of the River Shannon, linked by www.thederginn.ie
(1 mile) offshore, in Scarriff Bay, leave a 17th-century bridge. Killaloe is the
from the pier (see left). St Caimin more interesting of the two. Brian Boru, MOUNTSHANNON
founded a monastery on the island the High King of Ireland, was born Cois na h’Abhna inexpensive
in the 7th century. The ruins include here and built his palace, Kincora, on Popular local pub known for its music
monastic cells, five churches and 80 the site of the Catholic church at the sessions (Sat & Sun eves). Sit in the
beer garden in summer or by an open
marked graves pre-dating the 12th top of the hill. It was the centre of fire in winter.
century. Dominating the island is an power in Ireland until his death at the Main St; 061 927 189
80-m (260-ft) high round tower. Battle of Clontarf in 1014. Learn more KILLALOE AND BALLINA
The island has been a draw for about this totemic Irish figure at the
both pilgrims and plunderers Brian Boru Heritage Centre (see left) Ponte Vecchio inexpensive
through the centuries. Lured by the on the bridge over the Shannon. Italian deli and wine store. Eat in, grab
a coffee or stock up for a picnic.
prospect of monastic wealth, the The other building of note is Royal Parade House, Killaloe;
Vikings ransacked the island in 836 Flannan’s Cathedral, dating from 061 622 845; closed Mon
and again in 922. It is also associated around 1182, on Royal Parade at the Wooden Spoon Café inexpensive
with Brian Boru, the powerful High bottom of the hill. Inside, look for the Freshly baked foods including
King of Ireland (“Ard Ria”). His brother Romanesque doorway, the Thorgrim scrumptious sausage rolls. Takeaway
Marcan, an abbot, is said to have Stone, a bilingual rarity inscribed bakery upstairs.
rebuilt one of the island’s churches with both Nordic runes and Ogham 5 Abbey St, Killaloe; 061 622 2415
on the orders of Boru. markings, and the 13th-century font. AROUND KILLALOE
ª Follow the R352 along the Ballina has less to offer in the way Larkin’s Lakeside Pub and
lakeshore as far as Tuamgraney, of historical sites, but has a pleasant Restaurant inexpensive
bypassing Scarriff, and carry on riverside and a lively pub scene. Landmark pub on the Tipperary shore
along the lake, now on the R463, ª From Killaloe, cross the bridge into of Lough Derg. Wide choice of dishes,
from fish chowders to T-bone steaks.
into Killaloe. It is possible to swim Ballina and take the R494 south until Renowned for its music sessions.
in the lough at Two Mile Gate, and it meets the M7. Turn right onto the Garrykennedy (turn left at Portroe,
walk in Cragg Wood. In Killaloe, M7 and leave at junction 29, following 13 km/8 miles north of Ballina on the
park on the street. the signs to Limerick. R494); 067 23232; www.larkins/.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


114-119_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 115 11/09/17 11:38 am

116 BACK ROADS IRELAND

5 Limerick City
Co Limerick
Limerick city centre has two distinct areas, divided by the Abbey
River. North of the river is King’s Island, the medieval quarter
clustered around the 12th-century castle, and south is the Georgian
development of Newtown Pery, laid out in the 18th century on a
grid plan by the Italian architect Davis Ducart.
A two-hour walking tour Continue to Nicholas Street and turn
Start at the Tourist Information Centre left into it, passing King John’s Castle
1, where you can pick up maps and (open daily) 6 on the left. Dating from
details of events in the city. Continue 1210, this is one of Ireland’s most
up O’Connell Street and along Rutland impressive Anglo-Norman castles.
Street to the Hunt Museum (open Guided tours take in the extant walls
daily) 2. Occupying the 18th-century and towers. Cross Castle Street onto
Customs House, this private museum the Parade. On the left corner is the
is crammed with antiquities and art, Neo-Classical façade of the old
from Neolithic bronze artifacts to Bishop’s Palace (open Mon–Fri) 7.
Above The medieval tollgate on Thomond works by Picasso, Renoir and Henry Visitors are free to enter. Adjacent is
Bridge in Limerick Moore. From the museum, turn left St Munchin’s Garden 8 (part of St
across Matthew Bridge, over the Munchin’s Protestant Church), the
Abbey River, and left into Merchant’s picturesque graveyard of Church of
Quay. Here you’ll find the Limerick Ireland St Munchin’s church, with some
Museum (open Mon–Fri) 3, which very old tombstones. It has fine views
VISITING LIMERICK
relates Limerick’s history. Further down to Villiner’s Alms Houses below.
along the quay is the glass-and-steel Leaving the palace, turn right
Tourist Information
20 O’Connell St; 061 317 522; City Hall and Civic Centre 4. Walk down Castle Street, cross Thomond
www.limerick.ie; open Mon–Sat through its foyer to the courtyard, Bridge to the west bank and turn left
year-round which leads onto an embankment onto Clancy’s Strand and the riverside
Parking with river views. walkway. On the corner of the bridge
The best place to park in is in Arthur’s Return to Merchant’s Quay and is Catholic St Munchin’s Church 9.
Quay Centre, a multi-storey car park turn left up St Augustine’s Place. On Further along the walkway is the
on Arthur’s Quay, just off Patrick Street. the right the 12th-century St Mary’s prodigious bulk of the Treaty Stone
For on-street parking, discs are
available from shops and service Cathedral (open Jun–Aug: daily; Sep– 0, on which the treaty that ended
stations. May: am only) 5 has exquisite barrel- the Second Siege of Limerick was
vaulted ceilings, fine stained-glass signed in 1691. It promised religious
windows and, in the Jebb Chapel, freedom to the Irish Catholics, but
WHERE TO STAY IN LIMERICK
CITY Ireland’s only surviving misericords. within two months England reneged
Railway Hotel inexpensive Bishop’s
Traditional family-run hotel opposite St Munchin’s Garden Palace 0 metres 300
the railway station. Comfortable CASTLE ST I SLA N D ROA D
standard accommodation and friendly St Munchin’s Thomond 0 yards 300
Bridge
atmosphere. All rooms en-suite. Church King John’s
Parnell St; 061 413 653; Treaty Stone Castle NICHOLAS ST
www.railwayhotel.ie ATHLUNKARD ST
Curragower St Mary’s
Absolute Hotel moderate Seafood Bar City Hall and Cathedral
Overlooking the confluence of the Civic Centre MERCHANTS
Abbey and Shannon rivers, this stylish C L A N C Y S T R A N D Limerick QUAY BRIDGE ST
modern hotel has a waterside bar and MARY STREET
restaurant with an outside terrace. For Matthew GEORGE’S QUAY
Bridge
a small premium, guests have access River Shannon Museum Abbey River
Hunt
to the spa. Museum R UTLAND ST CHARLOTTE QUAY CLARE ST
Sir Harry’s Mall; 061 463 600;
www.absolutehotel.com MIC HAEL STREET BROAD ST OLD CLARE STREET
PATRICK ST
No 1 Pery Square Hotel and Spa Sarsfield ARTHUR’S QUAY
moderate–expensive Bridge HO NAN’S QUAY ELLEN STREET
Luxurious boutique hotel (20 rooms)
in an immaculately restored 18th- HARVEY'S QUAY SARSFIELD ST
century property on one of Limerick’s O’CONNELL ST
finest squares. On-site parking. Tourist
1 Pery Square; 061 402 402; Information
www.oneperysquare.com Centre
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
114-119_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 116 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 10: Loughs and Lighthouses 117


on the treaty and the stone came to turn are the ruins of the old church of
symbolize hatred of English rule. Just Tempall Nua (New Church) and further
along on the right is Curragower along on the right Giant’s Grave, a
Seafood Bar q, renowned for its Irish megalithic wedge tomb. Follow signs
oysters. Continue along the river as far to Lough Gur and the visitor centre.
as Sarsfield Bridge w and cross back
to the east bank. Go down the first set 7 Lough Gur
of steps on the left to Honan’s Quay, Co Limerick
leading to Arthur’s Quay Park, which Horseshoe-shaped and cupped in
has a great view of the castle. Follow the limestone hills, Lough Gur is one
Arthur’s Quay back to the car park. of Ireland’s richest archaeological
ª From the car park, turn right onto sites. The whole area is dotted with
Patrick Street, left up William Street megalithic remains, including burial
and Upper William Street, and veer chambers and ring forts. When the
right along Roborough Street. Take lough was partially drained in the Above The old stone mill in the market town
the first exit off the roundabout and at 19th century many artifacts were of Bruree, near Kilmallock
the next roundabout take the R512 for revealed, the most significant of
Lough Gur and Killmallock. Grange which was the magnificent Lough
Stone Circle is 20 km (12 miles) from Gur Shield, dating from 700 BC (now
Limerick. Park in the lay-by in front in the National Museum in Dublin).
of the entrance. Many other finds are in the Hunt
Museum in Limerick (see left).
On the shores of the lake are the
ruins of two castles, both of which
once stood on islands in the lake:
15th-century Bourchier’s Castle, near
the car park, and on the far side of
the lake ivy-mantled Black Castle,
dating from the 13th century, where
the Earls of Desmond periodically
resided. (It can be reached along a
path on the east side of the lake.)
Overlooking the lake, in two
replica Neolithic huts, the Heritage
Above A sheltered backwater on Lough Gur, an Centre (open daily) sheds light on
area rich in archaeological sites the history of the area with exhibits
and information boards. It also sells EAT AND DRINK IN LIMERICK
6 Grange Stone Circle light refreshments. CITY
Co Limerick ª Return to Holycross and rejoin the The French Table
Though not as imposing as R512, following signs to Kilmallock inexpensive–moderate
Stonehenge in the UK, Grange Stone (15 km/9 miles). On reaching This fancy riverside restaurant produces
Circle packs a significant punch, not Kilmallock, take an immediate right stunning plates such as civet of rabbit
and Atlantic hake in a prawn bisque.
least because of its isolation. Dating after John’s Gate and park in the Steamboat Quay; 061 609 274;
from 2000 BC, the ring consists of public car park. www.frenchtable.ie; closed Mon
113 standing stones and has an The Locke Bar inexpensive–moderate
internal diameter of 46 m (150 ft), Reputedly Limerick’s oldest pub
making it Ireland’s largest stone (1724), Lockes has a lovely location
circle. In Irish it is called Lios na Grainsi overlooking the Abbey River. During
(Stones of the Sun), suggesting that the summer a barbecue is served on
it had a ritualistic function. The the terrace out front. Also worth a try
is the Oyster House and Seafood Bar.
largest stone, the Rounach Croim Relaxed and informal.
Dubh (Prominent Black Stone), is 3 George’s Quay; 061 413 733;
over 2 m (6 ft) high and weighs 40 www.lockebar.com
tons. Entrance to the site is free, but Curragower Seafood Bar moderate
visitors are asked to leave a small Cosy, unpretentious seafood bar with
contribution in the donation box. a loyal following. Choose from chowder,
ª Continue in same direction on the crab claws, sea bass, salmon, oysters
and much more. Winter months:
R512 and turn left at Holycross, where weekends only.
Lough Gur is signposted (5 km/3 miles) Above Grange Stone Circle, a remote and Clancy’s Strand; 061 321 788;
left. On the left immediately after the atmospheric spot shaded by oak trees www.curragower.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


114-119_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 117 11/09/17 11:38 am

118 BACK ROADS IRELAND


different figures in Irish history.
Eamon de Valera, one of the leaders
of the 1916 uprising, founder of the
Irish Free State and keen advocate of
Catholic values, was a colossal figure
in post-independent Ireland. Vic
Loving, performer, actress, and
impresario was also a famous male
impersonator. The de Valera Museum
is also home to the Bruree Heritage
Centre recounting the town’s history.
Across the road, the Genesius
Above Kilmallock’s Dominican Friary, a Theatrical Museum – a hidden gem –
testament to the town’s medieval prosperity 8 Kilmallock includes costumes from 1860, posters,
Co Limerick old programmes, photographs and
In medieval times Kilmallock was one other memorabilia. Vic Loving’s
of the most important towns in granddaughter runs the museum;
Munster. But from the mid-17th entry is free but donations are
century, having suffered badly in the gratefully accepted.
WHERE TO STAY confederation wars of 1641, it went ª Return to the stone bridge and
into decline, and it never really turn right, follow the R518 to
KILMALLOCK recovered. Nevertheless, it is one of Ballingarry (18 km/11 miles) and then
Flemingstone House moderate the most intact medieval towns in turn right onto the R519 for Adare.
Award-winning farmhouse Ireland. A substantial portion of the Park by the village green.
accommodation at the base of the old walls survive, as well as John’s
Ballyhoura Mountains, on the R512 Gate and Blossom Gate. Notable Irish Coffee
about 3 km (2 miles) south of
Killmallock, in an elegant house with buildings include the 13th-century Irish coffee, almost as symbolic of
period furnishings and five bedrooms Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Ireland as a shamrock or harp, was
overlooking the surrounding Paul, and down by the river the invented in the 1940s by Joseph
countryside. Sumptuous breakfasts. Dominican Friary, attacked and Sheridan, head chef at Foynes
Dinner on request. Complimentary destroyed by Cromwellian forces International Airport, forerunner of
scones, tea and coffee on arrival. Shannon Airport. During World War
Kilmallock; 063 98093; under Lord Inchiquin in 1648. The II all transatlantic flights flew under
www.flemingstown.com Ballyhoura Heritage Centre (open the cover of darkness and this
Mon–Fri) near the Friary is home to invigorating concoction of black
AROUND KILMALLOCK the Friar’s Gate Theatre and coffee, cream and Irish whiskey
Old Bank House inexpensive Kilmallock Museum (open Apr–Oct: warmed up chilly passengers
Pleasant family-run B&B in a former daily), which traces the history of the before they set off. The drink gained
bank building in the village of Bruff, further favour in 1950s Los Angeles.
just off the R512 between Lough Gur town in the 19th and 20th centuries.
and Kilmallock. Two rooms have four- Daily tours of Kilmallock leave from
poster beds. outside the museum at 2pm.
Bruff; 061 389 969; www.theoldbank.ie ª From Kilmallock drive to the top of
AROUND BRUREE the town and turn right onto the R518
Echo Lodge moderate–expensive towards Bruree (6 km/4 miles). Drive
This is a spacious Victorian country through the centre of Bruree and just
residence that was converted from a before the road swings left over a stone
19th-century convent. Set in extensive bridge veer right and park across the
gardens, it is also home to the highly road from an old school house.
acclaimed Mustard Seed Restaurant.
Non-residents welcome to dine by
reservation. Overlooks Ballingarry, on 9 Bruree
the R519, 13 km (8 miles) south of Adare. Co Limerick
Ballingarry; 069 68508; The market town of Bruree has two
www.mustardseed.ie main attractions, both on the
ADARE outskirts of town, facing one another
Dunraven Arms Hotel off the road to Ballingarry. They are Above Kilmallock’s beautifully kept 13th-century
moderate–expensive the Eamon de Valera Museum (closed Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Paul
Established in 1792 and still retaining Mon), in the school where de Valera
the ambience of a country inn. was educated, and the Genesius 0 Adare
Though luxurious, it has a lovely
informal elegance. Theatrical Museum (visits by Co Limerick
Main St; 061 605 900; appointment, 087 926 8481) dedicated With its thatched cottages and
www.dunravenhotel.com to Vic Loving. They were two very spruce green, Adare prides itself on
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


114-119_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 118 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 10: Loughs and Lighthouses 119


being Ireland’s prettiest village. In q Foynes
fact, the beautification of this estate Co Limerick
village was the personal project of During the late 1930s and early
the third Earl of Dunraven. An 1940s this sleepy port overlooking
“improving landlord”, he wished to the Shannon estuary was the focal
create a bucolic haven and indulge point of transatlantic air travel. On
his passion for early Irish architecture. 9 July 1939, Pan Am’s luxury flying
For a village intended to be an boat, the Yankee Clipper, landed at
Irish idyll, it feels quite English. Foynes, the first direct commercial
Nonetheless, it is hard to resist its passenger flight between the
quaint charm. It has an array of United States and Europe. In the
medieval buildings, including three centre of town, the Flying Boat
monasteries, two in use and the Museum (open daily mid-Mar–mid-Nov)
third a ruin. In the middle of the recreates these pioneering days.
village the Heritage Centre (open See the original terminal building, Above The Blue Door Restaurant in Adare, a
daily) runs guided tours (Jun–Sep) of the radio and weather room, an early village beautified by the Earl of Dunraven
15th-century Desmond Castle. Next commercial passenger plane and a
to the centre is the 15th-century 1940s tea room. Foynes is also where
Catholic parish church, Irish coffee was invented.
once part of the Trinitarian ª Turn left from the car
Abbey, which has an park and drive along the
unusual stone dovecote. N69 to Tarbert. A roadside
Just south of the river, picnic spot near Foynes
an Augustinian Friary is offers good views of the
now an Anglican church estuary and access to a EAT AND DRINK IN ADARE
and school (limited access forest walk.
after 3pm). On the golf Blue Door Restaurant moderate
course beyond the castle, w Tarbert Bistro-style restaurant in archetypal
the Franciscan Friary has Co Limerick thatched cottage. Also serves morning
a fine cloister and the Thatched cottage in The N69 between coffee and, in summer, afternoon tea
tombs of the Desmonds picture-perfect Adare Foynes and Tarbert is in the pretty cottage garden.
Church View; 061 396 481;
(permission to visit from one of the best riverside www.bluedooradare.com
the clubhouse). Adare drives in Ireland, with
Manor, ancestral home of the Earls sweeping views of the estuary and The Wild Geese Restaurant
moderate
of Dunraven, is now a luxury hotel. Tarbert Lighthouse. In Tarbert itself, Acclaimed restaurant in cottage
ª Take the N21 west towards the Tarbert Bridewell Courthouse setting. Uses locally sourced meat, fish
Newcastle West. Four km (2 miles) and Jail (open daily) recreates the and cheese and organic vegetables.
after the turn for Rathkeale take the plight of early 19th-century convicts. Renowned for its seafood, such as
Castletownbere scallops and Atlantic
R523 to Ardagh and then the R521 for The town also operates regular car cod with crabmeat.
Foynes (14 km/9 miles). Park at the ferries across the Shannon to Killimer Rose Cottage, Main St; 061 396 451;
Flying Boat Museum in the centre. in County Clare. www.thewild-geese.com; closed Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Portumna and Limerick are ideal bases the Blue Door (see above), before
Spend a leisurely day on Lough Derg for these day trips. returning to Limerick.
enjoying simple lakeside pleasures, Limerick Loop Follow the drive instructions from
explore the many sites around Spend a morning exploring Limerick to Adare and return to the city
Limerick or take the lovely drive medieval and Georgian Limerick 5, on the N21.
along the River Shannon.
visiting the eclectic Hunt Museum,
Messing about on the Lake the Cathedral and King John’s Castle, Foynes to Tarbert
Combine a lovely riverside drive with
For boating, swimming and riverside then have lunch at Curragower a picnic, a forest walk and visits to
drinking and eating, concentrate on Seafood Bar (see p117). Afterwards two museums – the Flying Boat
Portumna 1 at the northern tip of head out to Grange Stone Circle 6 Museum at Foynes q and the
Lough Derg. There are bathing spots and Lough Gur 7, a peaceful lake Tarbert Bridewell Courthouse and
and a marina, as well as forest walks and valley packed with megalithic Jail in Tarbert w.
and Portumna Castle and Gardens to sites. From there, drive on to
explore. At the end of the day, drive Kilmallock 8, a medieval gem, and From Limerick take the N69 direct to
to Garrykennedy for dinner in then to Adare 0, Ireland’s prettiest Foynes, then follow the drive
lakeside Larkin’s (see p115). village, stopping for afternoon tea at instructions to Tarbert.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


114-119_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 119 11/09/17 11:38 am

BR_IR_120-121_Opener11.indd 120 23/10/09 14:26:30
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DRIVE 11 $PSL -JNFSJDL ./24(%2. %VCMJO ,JMMBSOFZ -JNFSJDL /& )2%,!.$ 8FYGPSE ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ $PSL ./24(%2. %VCMJO ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ 2%05",)# 8FYGPSE ,JMMBSOFZ -JNFSJDL $PSL ./24(%2. %VCMJO
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vibrant medieval market town,
famous for its folk music
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unusual limestone landscape, with its
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View over the Burren from Corkscrew Hill,
south of Ballyvaughan
BR_IR_120-121_Opener11.indd 121 23/10/09 14:26:33

122 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Lyrical Clare Gal w a yGal w a y
B ayB ay
BLACKBLACK AghaglinnyAghaglinny FinavarraFinavarra
County Clare can be broadly separated into two geographical regions: in HEADHEAD NorthNorth BallyvaughanBallyvaughan BurrenBurren
the south, the gently rolling countryside along the course of the River MurrooghMurroogh BayBay CaherloughlinCaherloughlin CorranrooCorranroo
Shannon; and in the north, a rugged and stony land with vertiginous BelacluggaBelaclugga
coastal cliffs. Cutting across the county, northwest to southeast, is the FanoreFanore FormoyleFormoyle BALLYVAUGHANBALLYVAUGHAN
CappaghmoreCappaghmore
magical region of the Burren, a limestone plateau crisscrossed by deep SlievecarranSlievecarran
fissures sprouting a dizzying array of plant life. Then there is the music. DerreenDerreen Ailwee CaveAilwee Cave St Colman’sSt Colman’s 334m334m
Many of the towns on the coast and around the edges of the Burren live SouthSouth Slieve ElvaSlieve Elva Corkscrew HillCorkscrew Hill WellWell
and breathe traditional music, perhaps more than any other county. SoundSound 345m345m THE BURRENTHE BURREN
PoulnabronePoulnabrone
ToomagheraToomaghera DolmenDolmen
CaherconnellCaherconnell CarranCarran
LisdoonvarnaLisdoonvarna Stone FortStone Fort KnockansKnockans
DOOLINDOOLIN CastletownCastletown
NoughavalNoughaval AughrimAughrim
FisherstreetFisherstreet
Father Ted’sFather Ted’s Mullaghmore Mullaghmore
HouseHouse
KilfenoraKilfenora
KilshannyKilshanny
LoughLough
LickeenLickeen GeorgeGeorge
SlievenageeraghSlievenageeragh LoughLough KillinaboyKillinaboy
CLIFFS OF MOHERCLIFFS OF MOHER LoughLough
InchiquinInchiquin CullaunCullaun
LoughLough
KilconnelKilconnel CorrofinCorrofin LoughLough
LiscannorLiscannor EnnistimonEnnistimon AtedaunAtedaun
Hags HeadHags Head RuanRuan
LehinchLehinch
DrinaghDrinagh
LiscannorLiscannor Cullenagh DromoreDromore
LoughLough
Cullenagh
BayBay MauricesmillsMauricesmills Moyree Moyree
CLARECLARE
BarefieldBarefield
InaghInagh
KilnamonaKilnamona
BauntlieveBauntlieve FountainFountain
SpanishSpanish MilltownMilltown CrossCross
PointPoint MalbayMalbay
Spanish PointSpanish Point ENNISENNIS
Above The soaring Cliffs of Moher, where the limestone plateau of the Burren meets Mal BayMal Bay SlievecallenSlievecallen
391m391m
the sea, see p126 KilmaleyKilmaley Fergus Fergus
QuiltyQuilty ShanavoghShanavogh
ClarecastleClarecastle
MuttonMutton MullaghMullagh DarraghDarragh
IslandIsland KilmurryKilmurry
0 kilometres 5 DooDoo CarncreaghCarncreagh BallyveskilBallyveskil
ACTIVITIES 0 miles 5 LoughLough CahereaCaherea
River Fergus
WhiteWhite
Spot bottlenose dolphins in the StrandStrand CahermurphyCahermurphy LisheenLisheen
Shannon Estuary Doonbeg Bay LissycaseyLissycasey River Fergus
KillardKillard CreeghCreegh
Doonbeg Bay
Tune in to Clare’s music scene, DonegalDonegal
PointPoint
which takes place in characterful pubs Farrily BayFarrily Bay DoonbegDoonbeg KilmilhilKilmilhil BallynacallyBallynacally
all over the county BealahaBealaha Doonbeg Deer I.Deer I.
Coney I.Coney I.
CorballyCorbally TullaherTullaher CooraclareCooraclare KnockaloughKnockalough LisnafahaLisnafaha
Doonbeg
Follow the exhilarating coast road GowerGower
around Black Head Moore BayMoore Bay BinaghBinagh CrannyCranny Horse I.Horse I.
KILKEEKILKEE GarraunGarraun TullagowerTullagower BinvoranBinvoran
Delight in the wildflowers of the MoyastaMoyasta KilladysertKilladysert Canon I.Canon I.
Burren landscape BreaghvaBreaghva InishcorkerInishcorker
TermonTermon Poulnasherry CarrowncallaCarrowncalla KnockerryKnockerry Kilmurry Kilmurry
a n n o
Visit one of the megalithic tombs EffernanEffernan a n n o n n
Bay
Bay
Poulnasherry
and 5th-century ring forts that pepper Kilrush Creek MarinaKilrush Creek Marina KILRUSHKILRUSH KnockKnock ShannakeaShannakea
Bayderalaw
R i v e r S h
the Burren DysertDysert Clonderalaw LabasheedaLabasheeda
Bay
KEY BallynoteBallynote KillimerKillimer Clon R i v e r S h
KilkerinKilkerin
Drive route SCATTERYSCATTERY
ISLANDISLAND LakyleLakyle
122-123_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 122 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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Date 22nd July 2009
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DRIVE 11: Lyrical Clare 123

Gal w a yGal w a y
B ayB ay PLAN YOUR DRIVE
BLACKBLACK FinavarraFinavarra
HEADHEAD AghaglinnyAghaglinny BurrenBurren
NorthNorth Start/finish: Ennis to the Burren.
BallyvaughanBallyvaughan
BayBay CorranrooCorranroo
MurrooghMurroogh CaherloughlinCaherloughlin Number of days: 2–3 days.
BelacluggaBelaclugga
FanoreFanore FormoyleFormoyle BALLYVAUGHANBALLYVAUGHAN Distance: 195 km (121 miles).
CappaghmoreCappaghmore
Road conditions: Well paved and
SlievecarranSlievecarran
Ailwee CaveAilwee Cave 334m334m well signposted except on some
DerreenDerreen St Colman’sSt Colman’s
WellWell non-classified roads.
SouthSouth Slieve ElvaSlieve Elva Corkscrew HillCorkscrew Hill THE BURRENTHE BURREN
SoundSound 345m345m When to go: May–Oct are the best
PoulnabronePoulnabrone months to come, but May, when the
ToomagheraToomaghera DolmenDolmen flowers on the Burren are in bloom, is
CaherconnellCaherconnell CarranCarran particularly lovely.
LisdoonvarnaLisdoonvarna Stone FortStone Fort KnockansKnockans
DOOLINDOOLIN CastletownCastletown Opening times: Pubs and music
NoughavalNoughaval AughrimAughrim
FisherstreetFisherstreet venues stay open until 11pm or later.
Father Ted’sFather Ted’s Mullaghmore Mullaghmore
HouseHouse
KilfenoraKilfenora Main market days: Ennis: Fri/Sat;
KilshannyKilshanny Kilrush: Thu.
LoughLough
LickeenLickeen GeorgeGeorge
SlievenageeraghSlievenageeragh LoughLough KillinaboyKillinaboy Shopping: Ennis has a variety of
CLIFFS OF MOHERCLIFFS OF MOHER LoughLough small independent shops – from
InchiquinInchiquin CullaunCullaun fashion boutiques to antiques and
LoughLough
KilconnelKilconnel CorrofinCorrofin LoughLough specialist food shops – while Doolin
LiscannorLiscannor EnnistimonEnnistimon AtedaunAtedaun
Hags HeadHags Head RuanRuan is known for its music shops, selling
LehinchLehinch
DrinaghDrinagh traditional Irish instruments and
LiscannorLiscannor Cullenagh DromoreDromore music. Burren Perfumery sells lotions
LoughLough
Cullenagh
BayBay MauricesmillsMauricesmills Moyree Moyree inspired by the wildflowers.
CLARECLARE
BarefieldBarefield Major festivals: Ennis: Fleadh Nua
InaghInagh (folk music), last week May.
KilnamonaKilnamona
BauntlieveBauntlieve FountainFountain
SpanishSpanish MilltownMilltown CrossCross
PointPoint MalbayMalbay DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Spanish PointSpanish Point ENNISENNIS
SlievecallenSlievecallen
Mal BayMal Bay 391m391m KilmaleyKilmaley Walkers will love the spectacular
QuiltyQuilty ShanavoghShanavogh Fergus Fergus north coast of Clare, with the cliff
ClarecastleClarecastle path at the vertiginous Cliffs of
MuttonMutton MullaghMullagh DarraghDarragh Moher; finish with a visit to the
IslandIsland KilmurryKilmurry music village of Doolin or head up
CarncreaghCarncreagh
DooDoo the coast to Black Head. Alternatively,
LoughLough BallyveskilBallyveskil
CahereaCaherea devote a whole day to exploring the
River Fergus
WhiteWhite Burren’s landscape, villages, ring
StrandStrand CahermurphyCahermurphy LisheenLisheen forts and megalithic sites. For full
LissycaseyLissycasey River Fergus details, see p127.
KillardKillard CreeghCreegh
Doonbeg Bay
Doonbeg Bay
DonegalDonegal
PointPoint DoonbegDoonbeg KilmilhilKilmilhil BallynacallyBallynacally Below The lighthouse at Loop Head, on the
Farrily BayFarrily Bay BealahaBealaha Deer I.Deer I. southwest tip of County Clare, see p125
CorballyCorbally Doonbeg KnockaloughKnockalough Coney I.Coney I.
Doonbeg
TullaherTullaher CooraclareCooraclare LisnafahaLisnafaha
GowerGower
Moore BayMoore Bay BinaghBinagh CrannyCranny Horse I.Horse I.
KILKEEKILKEE GarraunGarraun TullagowerTullagower BinvoranBinvoran
MoyastaMoyasta BreaghvaBreaghva KilladysertKilladysert Canon I.Canon I.
InishcorkerInishcorker
TermonTermon CarrowncallaCarrowncalla Kilmurry Kilmurry
KnockerryKnockerry
a n n o
EffernanEffernan
Bay
Bay
Poulnasherry
Poulnasherry
KILRUSHKILRUSH a n n o n n
Bayderalaw
R i v e r S h
Kilrush Creek MarinaKilrush Creek Marina KnockKnock ShannakeaShannakea
DysertDysert Clonderalaw LabasheedaLabasheeda
KillimerKillimer Clon Bay
BallynoteBallynote R i v e r S h
KilkerinKilkerin
SCATTERYSCATTERY
ISLANDISLAND LakyleLakyle
122-123_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 123 12/09/17 12:18 pm

124 BACK ROADS IRELAND

VISITING ENNIS
Parking
Ennis is a small town and its narrow
streets get congested. All town-centre
parking is metered. There is a multi-
storey car park near Market Place.
Tourist Information
Arthur’s Row (off the main square);
065 682 8366; open Tue–Sat
VISITING SCATTERY ISLAND
Dolphin Discovery sails from Kilrush
Creek Marina Apr–Oct, subject to tides;
065 905 1327; www.discoverdolphins.ie
WHERE TO STAY IN ENNIS
Above Vandeleur Walled Garden, the last remnant of Kilrush House
Banner Lodge inexpensive
Eight-room guesthouse offering a high 1 Ennis maritime traditions. Its Heritage
standard. Located in the centre of Ennis. Co Clare Centre (open May–Sep: daily) has an
Market St; 065 682 4224
This is Clare’s largest town, located exhibition about the Great Famine.
Newpark House inexpensive midway between the Shannon Estuary Vandeleur Walled Garden (open
Stylish period house dating from 1650, and the Burren. Straddling the River daily), just outside the town (drive
in a beautiful woodland setting. It is
2 km (1 mile) east of Ennis, off the R352. Fergus, it retains a winding medieval clockwise around the main square
Roslevan; 065 682 1233; street pattern either side of O’Connell and turn right off Moore Street,
www.newparkhouse.com Street, named after following signs for the
Temple Gate Hotel inexpensive Daniel O’ Connell, the garden) was once
Modern hotel off Ennis main square. first Catholic MP to sit part of Kilrush House,
Comfortable, convenient, good value. in Westminster, in 1828. seat of the Vandeleur
The Square; 065 682 3300; His statue stands in family. The house was
www.templegatehotel.com
O’Connell Square. demolished in 1973.
Old Ground Hotel moderate The ruins of Enclosed by lovely
An 18th-century building in the centre 14th–15th-century old stone walls, the
of Ennis with spacious, elegant rooms.
and superb dining (see opposite). Franciscan Ennis Friary Colourful mural on a pub garden was restored
O’ Connell St; 065 682 8127; (open May–Oct) on Abbey in Ennis to its former glory in
www.flynnhotels.com Street are noted for their the 1990s and is now
rich carvings and decorated tombs – noted for its tropical plants.
Below The creeper-clad ruins of Ennis Friary, above all, the McMahon tomb. On the Drive back to the main square in
dating from the 14th century corner of Francis Street, is the Queen’s Kilrush and take Frances Street off the
Hotel, featured in James Joyce’s square. This long broad street leads
Ulysses. The town is also renowned for down to Kilrush Creek Marina, from
its painted shopfronts and folk music where there are boat trips on the
festivals or fleadhs. To find out more Shannon Estuary to see Ireland’s only
drop into the Glór Music Centre, on resident bottlenose dolphins and
Friar’s Walk, or the Tourist Information excursions to Scattery Island, 2 km
Centre and Clare Museum (open Jun– (1 mile) offshore.
Sep: Mon–Sat; Oct–May: Tue–Sat). ª Board a boat at the marina (see left).
ª Take the R473 towards Clarecastle,
turning right 2 km (1 mile) before the 3 Scattery Island
town. Follow signs for Ballynacally Co Clare
along the Shannon Estuary. Continue This tiny island boasts a 6th-century
on the R473, through Labasheeda , monastery, founded by St Senan, five
Kilmurry and Knock, until Killimer, churches and a 300-m (100-ft) high
then join the N67 to Kilrush. round tower, still relatively intact
(unusually, its main door is at ground
2 Kilrush level). On the north of the island are
Co Clare the remains of a gun rampart from
Cill Rois (“church of the promontory”) the Napoleonic Wars (1799–1815).
is a designated Heritage Town, in ª Return to Kilrush. From the town’s
recognition of its legacy as an 18th- square, take the N67 west, signed to
century estate town with strong Kilkee (23 km/14 miles).
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


124-127_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 124 13/10/17 1:06 pm

DRIVE 11: Lyrical Clare 125

4 Kilkee
Co Clare
In summer, Kilkee is popular with out-of-towners, mostly from
Limerick, who come for its splendid crescent-shaped beach. When
the tide is fully out, deep rock pools known as the Pollock Holes can
be explored at the southern end of the sands; they are favourite
swimming and snorkelling spots. The cliffs on either side of the
beach offer good walks with stunning views.

A 45-minute cliff walk Heading away from the cliff edge,
The cliffs above Kilkee offer scenery take the first left down Dunlicky Road
almost as dramatic as that of the and into Kilkee. Along the way are
Cliffs of Moher (see p126), but are less views across Kilkee and over the bay.
visited. This walk begins to the left of For a longer walk, adding a further
Kilkee beach in the so-called West 4 km (2 miles), turn right instead of
End. From the public car park next left on Dunlicky Road and follow it
to the Diamond Rocks Café 1, to Goleen Bay.
where there is a life size statue of Back in the West End, explore the Above The cliffs at Loop Head, along the
the actor Richard Harris, who was a delights of Kilkee’s beach. If the tide scenic drive from Kilkee
frequent visitor to Kilkee as a child, is out scramble over the rocks in
a paved path gently ascends to the front of the car park to the three
top of the cliffs. To the right, just Pollock Holes 4, deep tidal pools
beyond the café, are flat, limestone popular with snorkellers. For snacks
slabs known as the Diamond Rocks or lunch, the Diamond Rocks Café
2, a natural amphitheatre used for has a terrace with views to George’s
musical and theatrical events in Head. In summer, vendors on the
summer. About 50 m (164 ft) further seafront sell periwinkles and dillish – VISITING KILKEE
on is a shelter with seating and a an edible sea grass gathered from
look out. On a clear day, the hazy the rock pools. Parking
Park by the beach in the town’s West
silhouettes of the three Aran Islands ª From Kilkee, either take a scenic End, next to the Diamond Rocks Café.
are visible to the north, and the drive around Loop Head (23 km/15
outline of the Kerry coastline can be miles) on the R487, or head direct to
discerned to the south. To the west is Milltown Malbay on the coastal N67. EAT AND DRINK
the tapering finger of Loop Head. From there it is possible to continue
The paved path continues for towards Ennistimon (an attractive ENNIS
about 1.5 km (1 mile) to Foohagh market town with painted shop fronts), Rowan Tree Café Bar moderate
Point 3, where it curves left, away which offers an alternative inland route Mediterranean-style food is on offer
from the cliff edge. The final section, to the Burren continuing on the N67 via at this café in a lovely old manor
house with an outdoor terrace.
which gets progressively steeper, Lisdoonvarna. To experience the full Accommodation is available in the
overlooks Intrinsic Bay, named after drama of Clare’s coastline, however, hostel next door.
a Liverpool-bound cargo ship which turn left off the N67 at Lehinch, taking Harmony Row; 065 686 8669;
sank in a gale here in 1830. the R478 to the Cliffs of Moher. www.rowantreecafebar.ie
Town Hall Bistro moderate
Part of the Old Ground Hotel, but
0 metres 800 with a separate entrance. The
restaurant offers a contemporary
Moore Bay
0 yards 800 Diamond Rocks dining experience with an emphasis
Diamond Rocks Cafe on bistro-style dishes.
Pollock Holes O’Connell St; 065 682 8127;
www.flynnhotels.com
Kilkee
Beach KILKEE
D U N L I C K Y R O A D KILKEE The Strand Restaurant and
Guesthouse moderate
Family-run restaurant and guesthouse
on the seafront overlooking Kilkee Bay.
Foohagh
Point The menu leans towards seafood but
also includes mainstays such as rack of
lamb and fillet steak. Has six en-suite
rooms above the restaurant.
Strand Line; 065 905 6177;
www.thestrandkilkee.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50
124-127_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 125 11/09/17 11:38 am

126 BACK ROADS IRELAND


5 Cliffs of Moher McGann’s, McDermott’s and Gus
Co Clare O’Connors, are highly recommended,
One of Ireland’s most remarkable the last especially for rollicking ballads.
natural features, the Cliffs of Moher ª Take the R479 north and then turn
are where the limestone plateau of left at the junction with the R477. This
the Burren plunges 300 m (1,000 ft) rejoins the coast, eventually rounding
into the sea. They stretch for 8 km Black Head.
(5 miles) along the coast of Clare.
Park at the northern end, by the Cliffs 7 Black Head
of Moher Visitor Experience (open Co Clare
daily). The state-of-the-art visitor centre The drive around Black Head to
offers interactive exhibits and virtual Ballyvaughan is thrilling, sweeping
experiences, including the Atlantic close to the shore with a succession
Edge, which simulates the sensation of glorious views. Pull in and stretch
of stepping onto the cliff edge. your legs on Fanore Beach or stop at
To view the cliffs in relative the lighthouse, from where there are
isolation, take the cliff path to the far-reaching views across Galway Bay.
southern extremity of Hag’s Head. ª Continue along the R477 to
On a clear day there are views of Ballyvaughan.
the Aran Islands and the mountains
of Connemara. 8 Ballyvaughan
Above The majestic Cliffs of Moher rising ª From the Cliffs of Moher, a Co Clare
from the Atlantic Ocean winding coastal road leads to Doolin. A fishing village dotted with slate-
However, this gets congested, roofed cottages, Ballyvaughan
SHOPPING IN DOOLIN especially in summer, so take the bustles with visitors in summer. It
R478 north and turn left at the sign is often described as the gateway to
The Traditional Music Shop on Fisher for Doolin. the Burren, for this is where the
Street sells recordings of musicians from limestone plateau at the heart of the
the area, sheet music and locally made 6 Doolin Burren begins. The town has a range
musical instruments (065 707 4407;
www.irishmusicdoolin.com). Co Clare of good hotels, pubs and restaurants.
If County Clare is the heartland of Bicycle hire and guided walks to view
traditional Irish music, the village of the area’s geology and botany can
Doolin is its music capital, brimming be arranged through the Tourist
WHERE TO STAY with music pubs and shops. These Information Centre (see right).
days some of them cater more to the ª Take the N67 inland towards
DOOLIN tourist industry than for genuine Lisdoonvarna, famous for its match-
Ballinalacken Castle Country House music lovers, but there are several making competition. Look back for
and Restaurant moderate–expensive authentic music pubs where visitors stunning views over Galway Bay. After
This manor house is the perfect can still pull up a seat and experience 1.5 km (1 mile), turn left onto the R480
retreat, with views of the Aran Islands. the full force of a rousing session. for the heart of the Burren.
Doolin; 086 361 3719;
www.ballinalackencastle.com
Below Stunning views over Galway Bay from Black Head Lighthouse
BALLYVAUGHAN
Hyland’s Burren Hotel inexpensive
18th-century hotel with 31 individually
designed, en suite rooms and turf fires in
the public area. The Burren Bar is a lovely
spot for whiling away an hour or two.
Ballyvaughan; 065 707 7037;
www.hylandsburren.com
THE BURREN
Fergus View inexpensive
Neat farmhouse well located for
exploring the surrounding area.
Killinaboy, Corrofin; 065 683 7606;
www.fergusview.com
Gregan’s Castle Hotel expensive
A charming manor house hotel. Turf fires
and sweeping views of the Burren.
Corkscrew Hill, 4 km (2 miles) south of
Ballyvaughan; closed Dec–mid-Feb; 065
707 7005; www.gregans.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


124-127_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 126 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 11: Lyrical Clare 127

9 The Burren
Co Clare
This massive plateau covers the whole of northwest Clare. Its name
derives from the Irish An Bhoieann, meaning “The Stony District”, for it
is covered with huge flagstones called clints broken by deep fissures
called grikes, through which millennia of rainfall have drained to form
underground caves and rivers. One of Cromwell’s surveyors declared it
a savage land, yielding little. In fact, it is astonishingly rich in plant life,
and it abounds in stone forts and megalithic tombs.
Heart of the Burren burrenperfumery.com), an artisan
The characteristic karst landscape of perfumery inspired by the local flora.
the Burren unfolds as the R480 heads Leaving here, continue in the same
south. On the left is the western flank direction. After about 4 km (2 miles)
of Aillwee Rock and Aillwee Cave, a the road descends steeply. After it Above Poulnabrone Dolmen, one of many
series of spectacular showcaves (www. levels out, look left for the entrance megalithic portal tombs on the Burren
aillweecave.ie; open daily). Go south for to St Colman’s Well, a 20-minute walk
7 km (4 miles) to Poulnabrone Dolmen, along a path. This healing well is
a large portal tomb dating from overhung by an ash tree strung with
2500–2000 BC and one of “clooties”, rags tied for a
some 70 in the area. A wish or a blessing. VISITING THE BURREN
further 2 km (1 mile) south After 4 km (2 miles), Tourist Information
is Caherconnell Stone Fort turn right on the Kinvarra Village Stores, Main Street,
(www.caherconnell.com; visitor road, then left at the next Ballyvaughan 065 707 7464;
centre open mid-Mar–Oct). junction (4 km/2 miles). www.ballyvaughantourism.com
Such ring forts were common After a further 2 km The Burren Centre
from the 5th century. (1 mile) turn right for Kilfenora, 065 708 8030;
Turn right on leaving the Killinaboy and Corrofin, www.theburrencentre.ie; open
fort, then left at the next staying left when the road Mar–Oct
junction, up Magga Hill forks. After 4 km (2 miles),
and down into Carran Sign at the Burren a large grey house with EAT AND DRINK
(5 km/3 miles). Turn left Perfumery bay windows was the
after Cassidy’s pub and location for the popular BALLYVAUGHAN
then right, signposted to Boston TV sitcom Father Ted, and serves tea Monk’s moderate
A cosy place with several small bars.
Gort. After 1 km (half a mile) turn left and cakes by appointment. Leaving Has a well-deserved reputation for
for Burren Perfumery (open daily; www. here, turn right and at the next seafood, with dishes such as fried
junction turn left to skirt the Atlantic fishcakes and Island Eddy
The Burren southern flank of Mullaghmore. This clams. Great views over Galway Bay.
The vast limestone pavement of the area is rich in plants and a walk is Old Pier, Ballyvaughan; 065 707 7059;
www.monksballyvaughan.com
Burren – what Cromwell’s surveyor recommended (a full circuit of the
described as “yielding neither water mountain will take about 2 hours). THE BURREN
enough to drown a man, nor tree Afterwards return to the first junction Vaughan’s Pub moderate
to hang him in, nor soil enough to after Father Ted’s and turn left to Landmark pub known for its music in
bury” – extends across the whole of Kilfenora. Traditional menu featuring
northwest Clare until it gives way to Killinaboy (4 km/2 miles), with a seafood chowder, bacon and cabbage,
the black shale and sandstone of round tower and church. From here, and a splendid beef and Guinness pie.
the Cliffs of Moher in the southwest. turn left onto the R476 to Corrofin, Main Street, Kilfenora; 065 708 8004;
for the 14-km (9-mile) drive to Ennis. www.vaughanspub.ie
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take the N85 from Ennis and follow the Aillwee Cave, then head on to the
Ennis or Ballyvaughan make ideal drive’s instructions around the coast. 5th-century ring fort at Caherconell.
bases to explore the dramatic north Pause at the Burren Perfumery for
coast and rocky land of the Burren. A day in the Burren restorative floral scents and make a
Ballyvaughan 8 is the gateway to wish at St Colman’s Well. Then take
Coastal drama the Burren 9, and it is possible tea at Father Ted’s house to gain
Head to the northeast tip of Clare’s to hire a bike, walk or drive through
coastline for a bracing walk at the the stark scenery, prehistoric remains energy for a walk on Mullaghmore –
a chance to appreciate the flora.
Cliffs of Moher 5, then stop in Doolin and unusual geological features of
6 for traditional music or continue to the region from the town. Stop off at From Ballyvaughan take the R480 and
Black Head 7 for stunning views. Aillwee Rock and the showcaves at R476 to reach the heart of the Burren.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


124-127_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 127 13/10/17 1:06 pm

BR_IR_128-129_Opener12.indd 128 23/10/09 14:27:00
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

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• Great gardens
Admire two of Ireland’s finest
gardens – formal Powerscourt and
romantic Mount Usher
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Discover more about Irish political
history at Avondale House, home of
statesman Charles Stewart Parnell
• Superb beaches
Stride along dune-backed Brittas Bay,
Wicklow’s loveliest stretch of coast
Wicklow Mountains near the Sally Gap
BR_IR_128-129_Opener12.indd 129 23/10/09 14:27:03

130 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Through the Sally Gap
Shankill
Shankill
County Wicklow is known as the Garden of Ireland, and with its forests, Glencullen
Glencullen
lakes and waterfalls, and its country estates, it lives up to its reputation.
As you enter the county from Dublin to the north, abundant trees Bray Bray
ENNISKERRY
GLENCREE
give way to the rolling Wicklow Mountains. Two notable valleys – GLENCREE ENNISKERRY
Bray Head
Glendalough, one of the loveliest in the country, and the Sally Gap, Bray Head
a remote pass flanked by heather and blanket bog – are wildly POWERSCOURT Cable Rock
POWERSCOURT
Cable Rock
ESTATE
beautiful. In contrast are the formal gardens of Powerscourt, the ESTATE Kilmacanoge
Kilmacanoge
romantic gardens of Mount Usher beside the River Vartry and Templecarrig
Templecarrig
the lush farmland in the Vale of Avoca. The coastal part of the drive Powerscourt Greystones
Greystones
Powerscourt
takes in the sweeping beaches of Brittas Bay and rugged Wicklow SALLY GAP Waterfall Delgany
Waterfall
SALLY GAP
Head topped by its three lighthouses. Delgany
s s
n n Kilpedder
Kilpedder
Kilcoole
Lough Kilcoole
Lough
i i Tay Tay
a a Newtown
Newtown
Mount Kennedy
The Breaches
t t Vartry Mount Kennedy The Breaches
Vartry
Reservoir
n n Reservoir
Newcastle
u u Lough WICKLOW Newcastle
WICKLOW
Lough
Six Mile Point
Dan Dan Six Mile Point
o o
Roundwood
M M Glenmacnass Roundwood
Ir ish
Killskey
Killskey Ir ish
Glenmacnass
Annamoe
Annamoe
Vartry
Vartry
Sea
Annamoe
Annamoe Sea
Ashford
GLENDALOUGH
GLENDALOUGH Ashford
MOUNT USHER GARDENS
MOUNT USHER GARDENS
Laragh
Laragh
Broad
Broad
Rathnew
Lough
Parkroe Rathnew Lough
Parkroe
w w
WICKLOW TOWN
o o Avonmore WICKLOW TOWN
Avonmore
Barnbawn
l l Barnbawn Glenealy
Glenealy
WICKLOW HEAD
Clara Lara
k k Clara Lara WICKLOW HEAD
Funpark
Funpark
c c
Drumgoff
Drumgoff
Beehive
i i Ballinderry Beehive
Ballinderry
W W Avonbeg
Avonbeg
Rathdrum
Rathdrum
Magherabeg
Greenan Kilbride Magherabeg
Greenan
Kilbride
Ardmore Point
Ardmore Point
AVONDALE HOUSE
Above Powerscourt House, a Palladian mansion famous for its garden, see p132 AVONDALE HOUSE
AND FOREST PARK
Ballinaclash AND FOREST PARK The Castle
Ballinaclash
The Castle
Kilmacoo
Kilmacoo
ACTIVITIES Macreddin Redcross
Redcross
Macreddin
Meeting of the
Meeting of the
Ballynapark
Waters Ballynapark
Waters
BRITTAS BAY
Picnic by Powerscourt Waterfall, the highest BRITTAS BAY
waterfall in Ireland
Aughrim
Aughrim Mizen Head
Mizen Head
Avoca
Trek through the foothills of the Wicklow Roddenagh Avoca
Roddenagh
Mountains on horseback VALE OF AVOCA
Aughrim Aughrim
VALE OF AVOCA
Hike into the hills above Glendalough or walk Woodenbridge Johnstown
Woodenbridge
Johnstown
beside its lakes KEY Kilpipe Ballinaheese
Ballinaheese
Kilpipe
Let the kids run wild at the Clara Lara Funpark, Drive route Avoca
Avoca
Ballinagore
an outdoor adventure centre for under-12s Ballinagore
Arklow
Tee off at Woodenbridge Golf Course, noted for Arklow
its scenic setting Johnstown
Johnstown
Arklow Head
Arklow Head
130-131_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 130 13/10/17 1:06 pm

DRIVE 12: Through the Sally Gap 131

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Shankill 0 kilometres 5
Shankill
Glencullen
Glencullen Start/finish Enniskerry to Mount
0 miles 5 Usher Gardens.
Bray Bray Number of days: 3–4 days.
ENNISKERRY
GLENCREE ENNISKERRY
GLENCREE
Bray Head
Bray Head Distance: 100 km (62 miles).
POWERSCOURT
POWERSCOURT Cable Rock Road conditions: Roads are mostly
Cable Rock
ESTATE good although unclassified roads are
ESTATE
Kilmacanoge narrow and have no central markings.
Kilmacanoge
Templecarrig
Templecarrig
Mountain roads may be impassable in
Greystones
Powerscourt Greystones bad weather; check the fore cast and
Powerscourt
Waterfall
SALLY GAP Waterfall make sure you have enough fuel.
SALLY GAP
Delgany
Delgany
When to go: Spring, summer and
s s autumn are the best times to visit.
n n Kilpedder
Kilpedder
Kilcoole
Lough Kilcoole
Lough
i i Tay Tay Opening times: Most shops and
a a Newtown attractions open 9 or 10am–5 or 6pm.
Newtown
The Breaches
Mount Kennedy
t t Vartry Mount Kennedy The Breaches Shops open Mon–Sat; in large towns
Vartry
Reservoir
n n Reservoir also 12–6pm on Sun. Convenience
Newcastle
u u Lough WICKLOW Newcastle stores in villages open 8am until late.
WICKLOW
Lough
Six Mile Point
Dan Dan Six Mile Point
o o Main market days: Enniskerry: 2nd
Roundwood
M M Roundwood and 4th Sun; Glendalough: Crafts and
Country Market, 2nd Sun; Arklow: Sat
Ir ish
Killskey Ir ish am; Aughrim: Farmers’ Market, Sat.
Killskey
Glenmacnass
Glenmacnass
Annamoe
Annamoe
Vartry
Vartry Shopping: Buy colourful woollen
Sea
Annamoe
Annamoe Sea
scarves, throws and rugs at Avoca
Ashford
GLENDALOUGH
GLENDALOUGH Ashford Handweavers, or browse Enniskerry’s
MOUNT USHER GARDENS quaint crafts and antiques shops.
MOUNT USHER GARDENS
Laragh
Laragh
Broad
Broad
Rathnew
Lough
Parkroe Rathnew Lough Major festivals: County Wicklow:
Parkroe
w w Gardens Festival, May–Sep; Wicklow
WICKLOW TOWN
o o Avonmore WICKLOW TOWN Town: Regatta Festival, Jul–Aug; Arts
Avonmore
Barnbawn
l l Barnbawn Glenealy Festival, May.
Glenealy
WICKLOW HEAD
Clara Lara
k k Clara Lara WICKLOW HEAD
Funpark
Funpark
c c DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Drumgoff
Drumgoff
Beehive
i i Ballinderry Beehive
Ballinderry
W W Avonbeg Take the R115 over the dramatic
Avonbeg
Rathdrum Wicklow Mountains or down the lush
Rathdrum
Magherabeg
Greenan Kilbride Magherabeg Vale of Avoca. Gardeners may want
Greenan
Kilbride
Ardmore Point
Ardmore Point
to focus on Powerscourt and Mount
AVONDALE HOUSE
AVONDALE HOUSE Usher. Beach lovers should head for
AND FOREST PARK Brittas Bay. For full details, see p137.
AND FOREST PARK
Ballinaclash
Ballinaclash The Castle
The Castle
Kilmacoo
Kilmacoo
Redcross
Macreddin
Macreddin Meeting of the Redcross Ballynapark Below Monument to Wicklow’s lost seafarers,
Meeting of the
Ballynapark
Waters
Waters
BRITTAS BAY
BRITTAS BAY Wicklow Harbour, see p137
Aughrim Mizen Head
Aughrim
Mizen Head
Avoca
Roddenagh Avoca
Roddenagh
VALE OF AVOCA
Aughrim Aughrim Woodenbridge
VALE OF AVOCA
Woodenbridge
Johnstown
Ballinaheese
Ballinaheese Johnstown
Kilpipe
Kilpipe Avoca
Avoca
Ballinagore
Ballinagore
Arklow
Arklow
Johnstown
Johnstown
Arklow Head
Arklow Head
130-131_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 131 11/09/17 11:38 am

132 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Enniskerry House and linger in Enniskerry to
Co Wicklow browse its crafts, design and antiques
Set around a square in the foothills of shops, or sample gourmet delights
the Wicklow Mountains, this picture- from Emilia’s Fine Food and Wine.
postcard estate village is a good ª Head uphill from the village
starting point for exploring the square, taking the road (R760) on
northern reaches of the hills. In the left-hand side of the square.
summer it bustles with tourists, who Powerscourt House and Gardens are a
come to visit nearby Powerscourt short way up on the right-hand side.

2 Powerscourt Estate
Enniskerry, Co Wicklow
Approached along an avenue lined with more than 2,000 beech
trees, Powerscourt Estate is set in magnificent formal gardens below
the Great Sugar Loaf Mountain. An exhibition inside reveals its
origins as a 13th-century Anglo-Norman castle, but the current
house, Palladian in style, was commissioned by Richard Wingfield,
the 1st Viscount Powerscourt, in the 1730s and designed by
Above Clocktower in the main square of the architect Richard Cassels. Gutted by fire in 1974, the renovated
picture-postcard estate village of Enniskerry building now houses an upmarket shop with an excellent café and
restaurant – all part of the Avoca Handweavers enterprise (see p137).
The gardens at Powerscourt are Next to the secluded Dolphin Pond
probably the finest in Ireland, both is a Pets’ Cemetery containing the
for their design and for their dramatic graves of Wingfield family cats, dogs
VISITING THE WICKLOW
MOUNTAINS setting. The grounds were and even horse and cattle.
remodelled along with the house in Powerscourt Waterfall is a 3-km
Parking in Enniskerry the mid-18th century, in a design (2-mile) drive from the house (turn
Park in or around the main square. created to blend into the landscape. right onto the R760 and after a hump-
Powerscourt Estate A century later the 6th Viscount back bridge sharp right). Cascading
Enniskerry; 01 204 6000; asked architect Daniel Robertson into the River Dargle from a height of
www.powerscourt.com; house, to draw up new designs for the 122 m (400 ft), it is Ireland’s highest
gardens and waterfall open daily gardens. He redesigned them – from waterfall and a popular picnic spot.
Trekking and Horse Riding a wheelbarrow, fortified by sherry to
Several companies offer guided relieve his gout – in an Italian style, Below Italianate statues and urns added to
trekking and horse riding in the adding the terraces leading down Powerscourt Gardens by the 7th Viscount
foothills of the Wicklow Mountains.
For details visit www.visitwicklow.ie. from the house. The new ornamental
One alternative is Clissmann Donkey gardens were finally completed in
Walking Holidays, from Rathdrum or 1858–75 by the 7th Viscount, who
Avoca (Cornybyrne Farm; 0404 46920; added gates, urns and statues
www.clissmannhorsecaravans.com).
collected during his travels in Europe.
He brought back the gilded
WHERE TO STAY IN
ENNISKERRY wrought-iron Bamberg Gate from a
church in Bavaria.
Ferndale inexpensive The centrepiece of the garden
This is a charming Victorian House, today is the Triton Lake, dug out for
furnished in period style and located the first garden, which takes its name
right in Enniskerry village. Scrambled from the central fountain – modelled
eggs and smoked salmon with home-
made breads for breakfast. on a 17th-century work by Bernini
Enniskerry; 01 286 3518; in Rome. The Perron, a beautiful
www.ferndalehouse.com; closed Dec–Jan Italianate stairway added in 1874 and
Summerhill House Hotel moderate flanked on either side by the terraced
This beautiful period house in its own Italian Garden, leads down to the
wooded grounds right opposite the lake. It is guarded by two statues of
entrance to the Powerscourt Estate Pegasus, the mythical winged horse
has distinguished rooms in the main
house and in adjacent townhouses. and emblem of the Wingfield family.
Enniskerry; 01 286 7928; A mosaic at the top was made of
www.summerhillhousehotel.com pebbles from nearby Bray beach.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

132-137_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 132 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 12: Through the Sally Gap 133




















Above left Patchwork fields in the foothills of
ª Return to Enniskerry and take the heather, dotted with pools and the Wicklow Mountains Above Johnnie Fox’s,
right-hand road uphill from the streams. It follows the Military Road, a pub with plenty of character and good food
square. Continue past Kilgarron built through the mountains to flush
Cottages and Glen View and follow out rebels after the 1798 Rebellion.
the road to Glencree. Now the road provides easy access to
the Wicklow Mountains National Park,
The Wicklow Mountains which has open access for walkers.
Wicklow Mountains National Park The landscape changes colour with
extends over 20,000 ha (50,000) acres the seasons from bright green in
of upland mountain scenery spring to purple in summer and
southwest of Enniskerry. The product russet-brown in autumn, and snow-
of the interaction of man and nature white in winter. Look out for stacks of EAT AND DRINK
through turf-cutting over thousands
of years, it is a rugged wilderness of freshly cut peat. Towards the end of
unpopulated heath and extensive the pass there is a viewpoint over the ENNISKERRY
bogland. Although no peak exceeds Wicklow Gap, another scenic route. Poppies inexpensive
915 m (3,000 ft), the mountains can ª Continue south on the R115 and turn With wholesome country cooking, this
be dangerous in bad weather, and right at Laragh onto the R755. After the friendly and cosy café is always
the roads are narrow, winding and sign for Wicklow Gap, turn left into the buzzing and is a great place to stop for
bumpy in summer, and may be breakfast, morning coffee or lunch.
impassable after snow in winter. car park at Glendalough Visitor Centre. Plenty of choice for vegetarians.
The Square; 01 282 8869; open
Below Powerscourt Waterfall cascades into the daytime only
3 Glencree River Dargle from a height of 400 ft (122 m) Emilia’s Ristorante moderate
Co Wicklow This friendly Italian restaurant has a
The Valley of Glencree is home to the sister shop below, Emilia’s Fine Food
Glencree Centre for Peace and and Wine, which is a good lunch stop.
Enniskerry; 01 276 1834; www.emilias.ie
Reconciliation, established in the 1970s
in response to the Northern Ireland AROUND ENNISKERRY
conflict, but now concerned with Johnnie Fox’s moderate–expensive
global peace-building. It is housed in From Enniskerry drive towards
an 18th-century British barracks. There Dublin through the Scalp (R117 north)
to reach Johnnie Fox’s, Ireland’s
is a Visitor Centre (open daily) and café. highest pub, with nightly music,
Further along the valley is the German crackling turf fires and excellent
Cemetery containing graves of steaks and seafood.
servicemen killed in the world wars. Glencullen; 01 295 5647; www.jfp.ie
ª Leaving Glencree visitor centre, POWERSCOURT ESTATE
turn left onto the R115 and drive south The Terrace Café moderate
through the Sally Gap. Run by Avoca (see pp136–7), typical
fare includes imaginative salads,
4 Sally Gap Mediterranean tarts and hearty
Co Wicklow casseroles (beef and Guinness a
speciality). Views over the gardens
One of the most spectacular drives in and Sugar Loaf mountain.
Wicklow, this remote mountain pass Powerscourt House; 01 204 6070;
is surrounded by blanket bog and www.avoca.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


132-137_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 133 11/09/17 12:30 pm

134 BACK ROADS IRELAND

5 Glendalough
Co Wicklow
Glendalough (Gleann Da Locha in Irish), or “valley of the two lakes”,
was carved out by glaciers during the Ice Age. A place of great
beauty and tranquillity, it is the setting for a monastic settlement
founded in the 6th century by St Kevin, a descendant of the royal
house of Leinster who rejected his privileged life to become a
hermit in a cave in this valley. It would be easy to spend half a day
here, exploring the monastery ruins and walking around the two
lakes, perhaps stopping to picnic. There are two information points
– the Glendalough Visitor Centre, which tells the story of the
monastery, and the Wicklow Mountains National Park Information
Office, at the Upper Lake, where visitors can find out more about the
park, valley and walking trails in the area.

A two-hour walking tour served as a belfry and a beacon for
Above The two granite arches of the Most of the monastic ruins (open approaching visitors, and was a place
gatehouse at Glendalough daily) lie between the entrance and of security for the monks during
the Lower Lake. From the Visitor times of attack.
Centre 1 follow the Straight ahead are the
path behind the centre monastic buildings 3,
and cross the bridge. including the Cathedral,
Turn right onto the dating from the 12th
Green Road, which leads century and the largest
around the complex, building in the complex;
and walk through the just to the south is
main gateway 2 – St Kevin’s Cross. Behind
originally two storeys – these is The Priest’s
with two granite arches. House, reconstructed
VISITING GLENDALOUGH
To the right is the from the original stones,
Glendalough Visitor Centre landmark Round Tower, which was a place of
Glendalough, Bray; 0404 45352; one of the finest towers Round Tower at burial for local clergy.
www.heritageireland.ie; open daily of its type: 30 m (100 ft) Glendalough Further along the path is
Wicklow Mountains National Park high and with its entrance St Kevin’s Church, known
Information Office 3 m (11 ft) from the ground (it would as St Kevin’s Kitchen, as well as the
Upper Lake, Glendalough; 0404 45425; have been reached by ladders that remains of St Kieran’s Church,
www.wicklowmountainsnationalpark.ie could be hauled up from inside), it commemorating the founder of
Clara Lara Funpark
Outdoor adventure playground 6 km Below The tranquillity of Glendalough, which attracted the 6th-century hermit St Kevin
(4 miles) from Glendalough off the
R755, between Laragh and Rathdrum.
Designed for children under 12.
Vale of Clara, Rathdrum; 0404 46161;
www.claralara.ie; open May weekends,
Jun–Aug daily
WHERE TO STAY IN
GLENDALOUGH
Derrymore House inexpensive
Attractive lakeside guesthouse
offering en suite rooms, including
three family rooms, and hospitality.
Packed lunches provided for walkers.
Lake Road; 0404 45493;
www.derrymorehouse.com
Glendalough Hotel moderate
A family-run hotel in Glendalough,
popular with passing tours.
Glendalough; 0404 45135;
www.glendaloughhotel.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


132-137_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 134 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 12: Through the Sally Gap 135




Round Main
Tower Gateway
Cathedral
Monastic Buildings
St Kevin’s Visitor Centre
Church St Kieran’s
Church
Lower Lake

Glenealo
M I N E R ’ S R O A D
National Park
Information
Office
Upper Lake Reefert
Church
St Kevin’s 0 metres 500
St Kevin’s Cell
Bed Poulanass
Waterfall 0 yards 500

Clonmacnoise. From here, take the The Wicklow Way
path back across the river and turn This is a self-guided walking trail EAT AND DRINK AROUND
right towards the Lower Lake. running 127 km (79 miles) from GLENDALOUGH
Walk along the Green Road, leaving Marlay Park in South Dublin to the
the Lower Lake on the right. Just village of Clonegal in County Glendalough Green Café inexpensive
Come to this café for a great selection
before the Upper Lake is the Carlow, taking in mountains, lakes, of freshly baked breads, soups and
rivers, forests and farmland on the
National Park Information Office 4. way. The entire trail takes 7–10 days hotpots, as well as artisan chocolates.
From here, follow the Poulanass and requires a good level of fitness, There are also outdoor tables for
Walk to Reefert Church 5, dating equipment and a proper map. alfresco dining.
from 1100. A little further on, up Alternatively it is possible to walk Laragh; 0404 45151
some steps, is St Kevin’s Cell 6, a short segments of the trail. For Wicklow Heather Restaurant
beehive-shaped hut where the saint more information on the trail, visit moderate
www.wicklowway.com.
is said to have lived and prayed. Little This fully licensed restaurant has a
selection of meat and seafood dishes.
is known about the saint, but legend Glendalough Road, Laragh; 0404
has it that he lived to the age of 120, 6 Avondale House and 45157; www.thewicklowheather.ie
and that a blackbird once laid an egg Forest Park
in the saint’s outstretched hands as Rathdrum, Co Wicklow Below Avondale House, birthplace of the Irish
he prayed, which he held until it The birthplace and home of Charles nationalist leader Charles Stewart Parnell
hatched. Further along the lake is a Stewart Parnell (1846–91), one of
small cave known as St Kevin’s Bed. It Ireland’s greatest political leaders,
is not accessible, but can be seen Avondale House (open Jun–Aug;
from Miner’s Road on the far shore. Thu–Sun & Bank Holidays) has an
From the hermit’s cell follow the important place in Irish history. Tours
Poulanass Walk to the Poulanass of its impressive interior recount the
Waterfall 7 – a steep climb through tale of Parnell’s fight for Home Rule
woodland – and views over the and the founding of the Irish
Upper Lake. Descend from the Parliamentary Party. The house, built
waterfall to the information office in 1179 by Samuel Hayes, is set in an
and return to the car park along the extensive forest park (open daily year-
far side of the Lower Lake. round) along the west bank of the
ª From the car park bear right onto Avonmore River with marked trails,
the R756, passing through Laragh. Turn picnic spots and children’s play areas.
right onto the R755 to Rathdrum and When the house is open, there is also
then right onto the R752 for Avoca. After a café and shop.
1.5 km (1 mile) take left and next left ª Leaving Avondale, return to the
at the sign for Avondale House. Park R752 towards Avoca, stopping at
in the car park. the Meeting of the Waters.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


132-137_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 135 13/10/17 1:06 pm

136 BACK ROADS IRELAND


7 Vale of Avoca left), founded in 1608. Trout fishing is
Avoca, Co Wicklow popular in the River Aughrim.
The Meeting of the Waters is a ª After Woodenbridge, take the
tranquil spot where the Avonmore R747 towards Arklow. Entering
(“large river” in Irish) and Avonbeg Arklow, take first exit at roundabout
(“small river”) merge to form the River and follow signs towards N11/Dublin.
Avoca. The poem “The Meeting of Leave the N11 at Jack White’s Cross
The Waters” by Thomas Moore Roads, turning right for Brittas Bay.
(1779–1852) commemorates “that
vale in whose bosom the bright 8 Brittas Bay
waters meet”. The Avoca eventually Co Wicklow
flows into the Irish Sea at Arklow. Running for 5 km (3 miles) and
Continue on the R752 to Avoca and backed by rolling sand dunes, Brittas
the Vale of Avoca. Bay is a stunning beach with Blue
Nestling in the wooded Vale of Flag status, ideal for swimming. In
Avoca, an area that once had gold, summer, it is busy with day-trippers
Above Pretty garden at Hunter’s Hotel, a copper, lead and zinc mines – dating and second-home-owners from
former coaching inn, Rathnew back to 1720 – is the village of Avoca. Dublin, but there is enough space to
The last mine closed in the early absorb the crowds. Lifeguards are on
1980s, but Avoca Handweavers has duty from mid-June through August.
the oldest working woollen mill in Out of season it is ideal for bracing
WHERE TO STAY Ireland, established in 1723, and is still walks along the sand, which provide
thriving, with stylish a chance to spot
VALE OF AVOCA modern designs to some of the rare
Woodenbridge Hotel and Lodge buy (see right). To wildlife in the dunes
moderate see the weaving backed by extensive
Established in 1608 as a coaching inn,
this is Ireland’s oldest hotel and a process, drive marsh and fen. Wild
charming and intimate place to stay. through the village, asparagus, sea rocket
Arklow; 0402 35146; pass the church and and sea parsley grow
www.woodenbridgehotel.com go down the hill; it is among the marram
on the left-hand side. grass, where dune
WICKLOW HEAD
Wicklow Head Lighthouse expensive From Avoca, continue rabbits may be seen.
This restored lighthouse, originally south along the Many options in the At different times of year it
built in 1781, is now run by The Irish R752, bearing right onto Wicklow Mountains is possible to spot little tern
Landmark Trust and can be hired on a the R747 for Aughrim. and ringed plover, sedge
self-catering basis. It has six octagonal At the meeting point of the Avoca warbler and reed bunting, dunlin
rooms and stunning views of the and Aughrim rivers, Woodenbridge and sanderling.
Irish Sea. A special place to stay.
Dunbur Head; 01 670 4733; is the scenic setting for the ª Drive north along Brittas Bay,
www.irishlandmark.com Woodenbridge Golf Course (0402 following the R750, which runs
35202; www.woodenbridge.ie), parallel to the beach, passing bathing
AROUND WICKLOW TOWN
and Ireland’s oldest hotel, the beaches at Jack’s Hole and Silver
Ballyknocken House moderate Woodenbridge Hotel and Lodge (see Strand, to Wicklow Head.
This 19th-century country house is
a guesthouse, farm, cookery school
and restaurant (for residents only), Below Glorious expanse of Brittas Bay, fringed by dunes that are a haven for wildlife
overseen by chef Catherine Fulvio and
her Italian husband. It is 1.5 km (1 mile)
from Glenealy on the road to Ashford.
Glenealy, Ashford; 0404 44627;
www.ballyknocken.com
Hunter’s Hotel moderate
A romantic 18th-century coaching inn
(on R761 to Newcastle) combining old-
style elegance with modern comforts.
Run by the same family since 1820.
Newrath Bridge, Rathnew; 0404 40106;
www.hunters.ie
Tinakilly Country House moderate
An old-fashioned country house set in
elegant gardens. Some period rooms
with four-poster beds and sea views.
Main Street, Rathnew; 0404 69274;
www.tinakilly.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

132-137_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 136 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 12: Through the Sally Gap 137


















Above left The River Vartry cascading
9 Wicklow Head conditions inside the dungeon. through Mount Usher gardens Above Ruins
Co Wicklow The building is supposed to be perched on the clifftop at Wicklow Head
This headland, rising 84 m (276 ft) haunted, so brave souls could try
above the sea, has been watched a night tour, held on the last Friday SHOPPING IN THE
over by two lighthouses since 1781, of every month. VALE OF AVOCA
when they were built to aid ships’ ª Follow the R750 out of Wicklow to
navigation through channels Rathnew and pass two roundabouts, Avoca Handweavers
Brightly coloured handwoven woollen
between the sand banks in the Irish following signs for Ashford. Mount scarves and throws can be bought at
Sea. The rear lighthouse on Long Hill Usher Gardens are on the right-hand the original Avoca mill. The Avoca
remains intact, and has been side on entering Ashford. Café serves delicious home-made
restored as holiday accommodation, baked beans with garlic and rosemary
on toasted ciabatta, pancakes with
while the front one was rebuilt in q Mount Usher Gardens fresh berries and similar delicacies.
1816. The third lighthouse, the only Ashford, Co Wicklow The Mill, Avoca; 0402 35105,
one currently in use, was built further Beautifully set along the River Vartry, www.avoca.com
down the cliff for greater visibility. these gardens (open daily; www.
ª Follow the R750 into Wicklow mountushergardens.ie) were EAT AND DRINK
Town and park near the Gaol. designed in 1868 by Edward Walpole
in the Robinsonian informal style AROUND THE VALE OF AVOCA
0 Wicklow Town made famous by the Irish gardener The Strawberry Tree expensive
Co Wicklow William Robinson (1838–1935). Award-winning organic restaurant in
The main attraction of Wicklow Town Meandering walks and pretty bridges an upmarket resort hotel, 15 km (11
miles) from Woodenbridge. Tasty
is its Historic Gaol (open Apr–Oct: daily; afford romantic views framed by rare dishes using locally sourced produce.
www.wicklowshistoricgaol.com). Built in shrubs and trees, from Chinese Brooklodge Hotel, Macreddin;
1702 and now a museum, it details conifers and bamboos to Mexican 0402 36444; www.brooklodge.com;
important episodes in Irish history, pines and pampas grass. Seasonal closed Mon
such as the 1798 Rebellion and the highlights include crocuses, bluebells AROUND WICKLOW TOWN
Great Famine. Visitors can climb and magnolias in spring, azaleas and Ballyknocken House and
aboard a reconstructed prison ship rhododendrons in early summer, and Cookery School moderate
and learn about prisoners’ harsh the glorious Maple Walk in autumn. See “Where to Stay”, left
DAY TRIP OPTIONS towards Laragh. Return on the R755 Powerscourt Estate 2 with an
Mountains, coast, vale or gardens, via Roundwood and Vartry reservoir. afternoon at Mount Usher Gardens q.
there are plenty of day trips that can The Vale of Avoca
be taken from Enniskerry or Wicklow. Follow directions to Powerscourt from
This valley has several interesting Enniskerry. Mount Usher is 26 km (16
Dip into the mountains stops, including Avondale House 6, miles) along the scenic coastal R761.
To sample the Wicklow Mountains, the Meeting of the Waters and Avoca
follow the Military Road, the R115, Handweavers in the Vale of Avoca 7. The Wicklow coast
from Glencree 3 to Laragh, turning Take the R750 from Wicklow, then the Drive around Wicklow Head 9 to
off at Glendalough 5 to picnic by R752 towards Avoca. spend the day at Brittas Bay 8, the
the lakes and see the ruins. finest beach on the east coast.
For gardeners
From Enniskerry follow signs to Compare and contrast two gardens Take the R750 from Wicklow Town,
Glencree and then join the R115 by combining a morning at the avoiding holidays when roads are busy.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


132-137_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 137 11/09/17 12:30 pm

BR_IR_138-139_Opener13.indd 138 23/10/09 14:27:32
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

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• Georgian splendour
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See how some of the world’s finest
bloodstock is raised, at the Irish
National Stud
Heading for the winning post at
the Curragh Racecourse
BR_IR_138-139_Opener13.indd 139 23/10/09 14:27:35

140 BACK ROADS IRELAND

The Plains of Kildare
Maynooth
Portglor
Portgloriamiam Maynooth
Lar
The county of Kildare is within easy reach of Dublin but still retains its Laraghagh
traditional rural character. Ireland’s world-famous bloodstock industry is
largely based here, on some of the best grassland in the country. This drive Lyreen Lyreen
follows the leafy roads beside the River Liffey and the Grand Canal, Newpark Baltracey
Newpark
Baltracey
Derry
Toolestown
past such diverse attractions as writer James Joyce’s boarding school, Derrycribcrib Toolestown
DONADEA
a prehistoric hill fort, a great Irish Palladian house and one of DONADEA
the world’s most prestigious racecourses. CELBRIDGE
CELBRIDGE
Timahoe l l l l e n e n Staplestown Painstown Newtown
Timahoe
Painstown
Newtown
Staplestown
Boherhole
Hodgestown
o
o f f A A Hodgestown Boherhole Liffey Liffey

g
Mainham
g
Mainham
Coolcarrigan
Garv
Straffan
B o B o Coolcarrigan Garvageage Richardstown Straffan
Richardstown
Newcastle
Newcastle
Coolearaghagh
Coolear
Grand Canal
CLANE
Prosper
Blackwood
Blackwood Prosperousous CLANE Grand Canal
Allenwood
Allenwood
Black
Blackhallhall
Oughterard
Oughterard
Goatstown
ROBERTSTOWN
Slate Slate ROBERTSTOWN Goatstown
KILDARE
KILDARE
Kilmeage
Kilmeage
Sallins
Sallins Kill Kill Porterstown
Porterstown
Carr
Allen Allen Carraghagh Johnstown
Johnstown
Hill of Allen
Hill of Allen Maudlings
Maudlings
Lattensbog
206m 206m Lattensbog Halverstown
Halverstown
Thomastown
Furness
Dunbyrne Thomastown Furness
Dunbyrne
Naas Naas
Rathmore
Rathmore
Morristown
Morristown
Milltown
Above The Japanese Gardens at Milltown Upper Beggars End
Upper
Beggars End
the Irish National Stud, see p45
Friarstown
Friarstown
Newbridge
Newbridge
THE CURRA
Connellmore
THE CURRAGHGH Connellmore
Mylerstown
RACECOURSE Kilbelin Mylerstown
Kilbelin
RACECOURSE
Redhills
Redhills
ACTIVITIES
KILDARE Silliothill
KILDARE
Silliothill
TOWN
Athgar
Listen to a recital of TOWN Athgarvanvan
chamber music in a
IRISH NATIONAL
The Curr
great 18th-century house IRISH NATIONAL The Curraghagh Liffey
STUD
Silliothill STUD
Silliothill
Liffey
Savour a pint on a peaceful
stretch of the Grand Canal
KILCULLEN Brannockstown
KILCULLEN
Brannockstown
Visit St Brigid’s Cathedral in Kildare
Town and climb the round tower for
spectacular views Old Kilcullen
Old Kilcullen
Martinstown
Martinstown
Unwind in the tranquillity of the
Japanese Gardens, in the grounds KEY
of the Irish National Stud Drive route
Germanstown
Germanstown
Place a bet on the horses at the
Curragh Racecourse
140-141_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 140 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 13: The Plains of Kildare 141

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Maynooth
Maynooth
Portglor
Portgloriamiam
Lar
Laraghagh
Start/finish: Celbridge to Kilcullen.
Lyreen Lyreen Number of days: 2.
Distance: 60 km (37 miles).
Newpark
Newpark Baltracey
Baltracey
Derry
Derrycribcrib Toolestown
Toolestown
Road conditions: The roads are in good
DONADEA
DONADEA condition, larger roads well signposted.
CELBRIDGE
Timahoe l l l l e n e n Staplestown Painstown Newtown CELBRIDGE When to go: Summer is the best time
Timahoe
Painstown
for horse-racing and musical events.
Newtown
Staplestown
The autumn colours of the county’s
Boherhole
Hodgestown
o f f A A Hodgestown Boherhole Liffey Liffey woodlands are spectacular.
o

Opening times: Shops and attractions
g
g
Mainham
Mainham
Coolcarrigan
Garv
Straffan
Richardstown
B o B o Coolcarrigan Garvageage Richardstown Straffan open 9am–6pm. Shops open Mon–Sat;
Newcastle also 12–6pm on Sun. Convenience
Newcastle
Coolearaghagh stores in villages open 8am until late.
Coolear
Grand Canal
CLANE
Prosper
Blackwood
Blackwood Prosperousous CLANE Grand Canal
Allenwood
Allenwood Main market days: Celbridge: Sat;
Black
Blackhallhall Kildare Town: Thu.
Oughterard Major festivals: Celbridge: Castletown
Oughterard
Goatstown
Slate Slate ROBERTSTOWN Goatstown Concerts (Castletown House), summer;
ROBERTSTOWN
The Curragh: Irish Derby, Jun; Punches ­
town: National Hunt Festival, Apr;
KILDARE Kildare Town: Medieval Festival, Aug.
KILDARE
Kilmeage
Kilmeage
Sallins
Porterstown
Sallins Kill Kill Porterstown
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Allen Allen Carraghagh Johnstown
Carr
Johnstown
Hill of Allen
Hill of Allen Maudlings Lovers of history and nature could
Maudlings
Lattensbog
206m 206m Lattensbog Halverstown
Halverstown
Furness
Thomastown
Dunbyrne
Dunbyrne Thomastown Furness combine a visit to Castletown House
Naas Naas with a stroll in Donadea Forest Park.
Rathmore
Rathmore
Walkers might prefer to walk a stretch
of the Grand Canal and climb the Hill
Morristown
Morristown
Milltown Upper Beggars End of Allen. And, if the timing is right, a
Milltown
Upper
Beggars End
day at the races at The Curragh is
0 kilometres 3
Friarstown
Friarstown unmissable. For details, see p145.
0 miles 3
Newbridge
Newbridge Below St Brigid’s Cathedral in Kildare Town, with
its striking 9th-century Round Tower, see p144
THE CURRA
Connellmore
THE CURRAGHGH Connellmore
Mylerstown
RACECOURSE Kilbelin Mylerstown
RACECOURSE
Kilbelin
Redhills
Redhills
KILDARE
KILDARE
Silliothill
TOWN Athgarvanvan Silliothill
TOWN
Athgar
IRISH NATIONAL The Curraghagh
IRISH NATIONAL
The Curr
STUD
Silliothill
Silliothill STUD Liffey
Liffey
KILCULLEN
KILCULLEN
Brannockstown
Brannockstown
Old Kilcullen
Old Kilcullen
Martinstown
Martinstown
Germanstown
Germanstown
140-141_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 141 11/09/17 11:38 am

142 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Celbridge 2 Clane
Co Kildare Co Kildare
This well-preserved village on the The Neo-Gothic Protestant church
Liffey has long associations with the (1884) on elegant Main Street stands
author and Dean of St Patrick’s, on the site of one of the earliest
Dublin, Jonathan Swift (1667–1745). monasteries in Ireland. Founded
His beloved Esther Van Homrigh, around the 5th century, it predated
whom he immortalized as “Vanessa”, the arrival of St Patrick. Nothing of
lived at Celbridge Abbey. At the it remains today. Just outside the
end of the Main Street, the gates of village, on the R407 heading north, is
Castletown House (open mid-Mar–Oct: Clongowes Wood College, a long-
daily) open onto a long driveway to established Jesuit boarding school,
the house, now accessible only on set in a beautiful estate of ancient
foot (cars must turn left at the gate woods and playing fields, the latter
and follow the signs around to the evoked by former student James
right and find the back entrance and Joyce in the opening pages of A
car park). The house was built in Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man.
1722 for William Conolly, the Speaker The main building is Castle Browne,
of the Irish House of Commons, and which was a border fort of the Pale,
is the largest private house in Ireland. that part of Ireland around Dublin
It is a masterpiece of Georgian controlled by the English until the
architecture in the Palladian 17th century.
style. The interiors were ª Continue along the R407;
created by Lady Louisa take the side road to the left
Lennox, wife of Conolly’s signposted Donadea, follow
Above The 13th-century fortified tower of great-nephew, and the signs to Donadea Forest
Barberstown Castle include the only intact Park and park in the car park.
18th-century print room in
Ireland. A portrait of Lady 3 Donadea
Louisa can be seen in the Co Kildare
superb stuccowork on The Aylmer family lived at
the staircase. Castletown Conolly family crest, Donadea Castle from the
is set in a stately park of Castletown House 15th to the 20th century.
mature trees. Also within The property is now
the park is Conolly’s Folly, built by owned by the state. The imposing
Richard Castle, commissioned castle still stands but is derelict.
by Conolly’s widow, Katherine, Visitors can walk on waymarked
in 1740 as a memorial to him and trails of varying lengths around the
to provide employment on the 240-ha (590-acre) Donadea Forest
WHERE TO STAY AROUND estate after a harsh winter. Park (open daily) with its mixed
CLANE
ª Leaving Celbridge, take the R403 woodland, walled garden, streams,
Westgrove moderate to Clane. lake and boat house. In a grove of
Top-class hotel with luxurious rooms,
comprehensive leisure facilities – Below left Interior of Castletown House, Celbridge, decorated in the Pompeiian style
including swimming pools – and Below right Exquisite mahogany bureau flanked by 18th-century portraits in Castletown House
a fine restaurant.
Abbeylands; 045 989 900;
www.westgrovehotel.com
Barberstown Castle
moderate-expensive
This long-established country house
hotel, the oldest part of which dates
from the 13th century, is set in its own
extensive grounds, with lovely
gardens; rooms furnished with
antiques; a fine-dining restaurant
and comfortable public areas with
log fires in winter.
Straffan, Clane (located off the
R403 between Celbridge and Clane,
7 km/4 miles from Clane – well
signposted); 01 628 8157;
www.barberstowncastle.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


142-145_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 142 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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DRIVE 13: The Plains of Kildare 143














EAT AND DRINK
CELBRIDGE
Courtyard Cafe inexpensive
An excellent café based in the high-
ceilinged former kitchen of Castletown
House, serving lunches of soups, tarts
Below The impressive former Grand Canal Hotel in Robertstown, at the centre of lively canalside activity and salads; a good place in which to
start or finish a tour of the house.
Castletown House; 01 627 9498
oak saplings, a limestone replica Join the R415 and proceed along it
of the World Trade Center’s twin with the Hill of Allen on the right- CLANE
towers commemorates members of hand side, passing Milltown, on a Zest Cafe inexpensive
the American emergency services feeder line to the canal. There is paid A popular café which turns into a
who died in the attacks of 11 parking in and around Kildare’s restaurant at night. Imaginative menus
include home-made burgers, and
September 2001, including Sean Market Square. unusual pastas and desserts. A small
Tallon, a young firefighter whose but good wine list.
family was from Donadea. In the The Grand Canal Way Clane Shopping Centre; 045 893 222;
nearby St Peter’s Church (open for This waymarked canalside trail runs www.zestcafeandrestaurant.ie
services) is a fine 17th-century for 138 km (86 miles) from Dublin AROUND ROBERTSTOWN
canopied tomb with effigies of to Shannon Harbour. Robertstown Hanged Man’s inexpensive
Sir Gerald Aylmer and his wife is situated at the 45-km (28-mile) A traditional country pub and
Dame Julia Nugent. mark. The path is well-maintained restaurant on the canal at Milltown
along its entire route, making it safe
ª Leaving Donadea Forest Park, for walkers and cyclists of all ages. The restaurant specializes in fresh food,
turn left, left and left again, in the Visit the website of the Inland simply cooked. Live music sessions
direction of the small village of Waterways Association of Ireland every Monday.
Milltown (9 km/5.5 miles from
Prosperous. Turn right on the R403, (www.iwai.ie) for details of this Robertstown on the R415);
then take a left turn on to a smaller and other waymarked trails. 045 431 515
road for Robertstown. Alternatively, see Waterways Ireland
(www.waterwaysireland.org) for
information about day trips and
4 Robertstown boat hire on the canal. Below Imposing Donadea Castle,
Co Kildare set in its own forest park
The Grand Canal, which links Dublin
in the east to the River Shannon in
the west of Ireland, is now used only
for leisure purposes. The highest
point on its route is at picturesque
Robertstown at the Hill of Allen. In
1804, the Grand Canal Company
built one of its grand hotels here,
though today it sadly stands
derelict. There are also several good
pubs, often with live music sessions
in the evenings. A little further to
the west is Lowtown, whose marina
is one of the most popular mooring
spots in Kildare. Here the canal
divides, with an offshoot towards
Athy and the River Barrow.
ª From Robertstown follow signs for
the pleasant hamlet of Kilmeage.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


142-145_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 143 11/09/17 12:30 pm

144 BACK ROADS IRELAND

5 Kildare Town
Co Kildare
Kildare is a pretty, well-preserved small cathedral and market town,
where St Brigid, one of the three great Irish saints (the other two
were Patrick and Colmcille), founded a monastery in the 6th century.
It later became the principal church in Leinster, and was unusual in
being a double monastery (for both nuns and monks). A fine Round
Tower, built as a place of refuge from the Norse raids of the 9th–10th
centuries, stands beside the cathedral. Kildare is the main town
serving the army camp and the racecourse, set in the great plain of
The Curragh, and is the centre of the Irish bloodstock industry.
A one-hour walking tour church on the site since the 6th
Start in the Market Square 1 in the century; it may have been a pagan
centre of the town, at the Heritage sanctuary before that. The present
Centre, formerly the Market House. building, dating from the 13th century,
According to the Statutes of Henry VI has undergone much destruction and
Above Kildare Town Heritage Centre, in the fine (1458) a market has been held in restoration, but contains some
18th-century Market House Kildare “from time whereof memory interesting medieval relics and modern
runs not”, but the present building is stained-glass windows. On the
from the 18th century. As well as a north side of the cathedral are
place of business, the Market the restored foundations of St
Square was a venue for town Brigid’s Fire Temple, where a
gatherings, and it is still the social small fire is still lit on the saint’s
VISITING KILDARE TOWN hub, with its bars, restaurants feast day (1 Feb). Behind the
and shops. In the Heritage cathedral, is the 32-m (106-
Parking Centre (open daily), as well as ft) Round Tower 3. It is
There is pay-and-display parking in
and around Market Square. the tourist office, is a possible to climb to the
multimedia exhibition top, for wonderful views. To
Tourist Information recounting the history of the Lord Edward the east of the Market
Kildare Town Heritage Centre, Fitzgerald statue
Market Square; 045 530 672; town. Opposite is the St Square, behind the Silken
open Mon–Sat, 9.30am–1pm, 2–5pm; Brigid’s Flame monument, by Thomas pub, is a remaining
www.kildareheritage.com Alex Pentek, unveiled in 2006 as a 15th-century tower from Kildare Castle
memorial to the sacred flame kept 4. Lord Edward Fitzgerald (1763–98),
WHERE TO STAY alive by St Brigid as a perpetual fire of leader of the United Irishmen, lived in
Christianity, which burned until the an adjoining house, now gone. Walk
KILDARE TOWN suppression of the monasteries in the up Market Square back to the car park.
Cherryville House inexpensive 16th century. At the top of Martket ª From Market Square, follow Tully
Charming bed-and-breakfast with Square is St Brigid’s Cathedral 2 (open Road over the M7 motorway, then turn
three rooms, two en-suite, in an old May–Sep: daily). There has been a left, signed for the National Stud.
farmhouse on a working farm, just off
the R445 heading towards
Monasterevan from Kildare Town. 0 metres 250
Kildare; 045 521 091;
www.kildarebedandbreakfast.com 0 yards 250
AROUND THE CURRAGH C H A P E L H I L L
RACECOURSE St Brigid’s
Martinstown House expensive Round Cathedral
Charming Gothic-style cottage ornée Tower
designed in the 1830s by the English S T A T I O N R O A D
architect Decimus Burton, set in
extensive grounds with wonderful
trees and even a rescued donkey, well C L A R E G AT E S T R E E T
signposted a few kilometres (miles) Market Square
south of the Curragh Racecourse on
minor roads. Six luxurious bedrooms Kildare Castle
and a friendly, comfortable ambience.
Five-course gourmet dinner (on 24- C L A R E G AT E S T R E E T
hour advance notification) and B R I D E S T
exceptional breakfasts.
Martinstown, The Curragh; 045 441
261; www.martinstownhouse.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


142-145_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 144 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 13: The Plains of Kildare 145


6 Irish National Stud 7 The Curragh Racecourse
Co Kildare Co Kildare
Established in 1946 to develop Irish Set in a great plain, where sheep
bloodstock, this is the home of some graze freely and horses from the
of the finest thoroughbred horses in surrounding stud farms are exercised,
the country (open Feb–Dec: daily). The The Curragh (open race days only) is
guided tour includes a visit to the where all five Irish Classics are raced
stableyard to see mares and foals, as – the 2,000 and 1,000 Guineas in
well as some retired champions. The May, the Irish Derby in June/July, the
Horse Museum tells the history of Irish Oaks in July and the St Leger in
horses, shows films of some classic September. A place to see Irish racing
races and exhibits include the skeleton at its best, in a terrific atmosphere.
of the great Arkle. ª Leaving the racecourse, turn right
onto R413. At the first roundabout take
the second exit, signposted Newbridge.
Follow signs for Kilcullen through two
roundabouts, crossing the M9
motorway, to the village of Kilcullen. Above Statue of Irish thoroughbred legend
Vintage Crop at the Currah Racecourse
Horse Sense
The Curragh is the home of Ireland’s
best flat racing, while Punchestown,
near Naas, is where the National
Hunt Festival takes place over the EAT AND DRINK
jumps. Ireland is famous for its
thoroughbred racehorses, and the KILDARE TOWN
bloodstock industry flourished for Silken Thomas
many years thanks to tax inexpensive–moderate
exemption on stallion profits. A refurbished traditional pub in the
centre of town, a popular place with a
bright and busy restaurant or an
Above St Fiachra’s Garden at the Irish National 8 Kilcullen inexpensive carvery at the bar.
Stud, a peaceful place of rock and water Co Kildare Kildare Town; 045 522 232;
www.silkenthomas.com
This is a winding village on the river
In the grounds of the National Stud Liffey in the midst of horse country, L’Officina moderate
This Italian restaurant is in the Kildare
are two superb gardens. St Fiachra’s with good restaurants and bars and Village shopping outlet, not far from
Garden (open daily), established in a pleasant riverside walk. There are Kildare Town. Inventive, authentic
1999 and named after the patron many antiquities nearby, including cooking, and lovely views.
saint of gardeners, is a spiritual place an early monastery at Old Kilcullen, Kildare Village shopping outlet, Kildare
reflecting the Irish landscape. The where St Patrick founded a bishopric. Town; 045 535 850
beautiful Japanese Gardens (open Feb– The base of a round tower and KILCULLEN
Dec: daily), laid out 1906–10, symbolize portions of three carved stone Fallons Bar and Café moderate
the Life of Man, and are regarded as crosses survive. The hill to the The owners of this long-established
the finest such gardens in Europe. northwest, Knockaulin, is topped by eating house bring a lively atmosphere
ª Turn right out of the National Stud, an important prehistoric circular hill and excellent food. Try seafood chowder,
special burgers or tapas, or just enjoy a
then right again and continue through fort, Dún Áilinne. It is on private land, pint of Guinness by the turf fire.
Kildare Town. Turn right onto R413 to so enquire about visits at the Kildare Main St; 045 481 260; www.fallonb.ie;
the Curragh Racecourse. Ample parking. Town Heritage Centre. closed Mon
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Take the R403 from Celbridge towards Follow the route from Robertstown;
Places of interest are all within easy Clane, then the R407 north and follow turn right to the Hill after Barnacrow.
reach of Celbridge, Robertstown and signs to Donadea Forest Park. Return
Kildare Town. along the same route. A day at the races
Walk around Kildare Town 5 and visit
History and nature Walking trails the National Stud 6 and The Curragh
Pass the morning exploring lovely Combine a stroll – or a boat trip – Racecourse 7 for a day of equine
Castletown House at Celbridge 1, along the Grand Canal at action (see www.curragh.ie for the dates
then continue to Donadea 3 for a Robertstown 4 with a walk up the of race meetings).
meander through the tranquil Hill of Allen, for marvellous views. Follow the drive’s instructions.
woodlands of Donadea Forest Park. End the day with a music session.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


142-145_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 145 11/09/17 12:30 pm

BR_IR_146-147_Opener14.indd 146 23/10/09 14:28:01
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

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• Georgian Dublin
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and museums and art galleries
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• Country life
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Learn about 19th-century rural life on
Newbridge traditional working farm
• Historic houses
Tour ancient castles whose lovely
grounds hold delightful surprises
Howth Harbour, bustling with yachts
and fishing boats
BR_IR_146-147_Opener14.indd 147 23/10/09 14:28:04

148 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Dublin’s North Coast Balbriggan
Balbriggan
From the bustle and buzz of Dublin itself to some beautiful, unspoiled
Dallyhaysy
shores north of the city, this drive offers a wealth of choice in just a Dallyhaysy ARDGILLAN Rockabill
Rockabill
ARDGILLAN
small number of miles. Along its route you can visit elegant castles Balrothery DEMESNE Red Red
DEMESNE
Balrothery
Island
and stately homes, wander along a dune-backed beach and Naul Island St Patrick’s
St Patrick’s
Naul
Island
Island
Black Hills
SKERRIES
admire panoramic views of the city, bay and mountains from Black Hills SKERRIES
rugged Howth Head. Pause along the way for a memorable meal Skerries Shenick’s
Skerries
Shenick’s
Mills
Mills
Island
at one of the region’s many fine seafood restaurants, and golfers Balcunnin Island
Balcunnin
should seize the chance to play on a championship course. Damastown
Damastown
Loughshinny
Ballykea Loughshinny
Ballykea
Collinstown
Collinstown
Ir ish
Ir ish
Lusk
Lusk
Rush
Rush
Sea
Ballyboghil
Ballyboghil Sea
DUBLIN
DUBLIN
Portrane
Portrane
Lambay
Donaba
Batheary
Batheary Donabatete Lambay
Island
Island
NEWBRIDGE
NEWBRIDGE
DEMESNE
DEMESNE
Broadmeadow
Broadmeadow
Swords
Swords
MALAHIDE
Ward ard MALAHIDE
W
Malahide
Malahide
Castle
Castle
Cloghran
Cloghran
Above Sturdy 19th-century Baily Lighthouse, perched atop the rugged southeastern St Margarets
St Margarets
tip of Howth Head, see p152 Dublin Portmarnock
Portmarnock
Dublin
PORTMARNOCK
PORTMARNOCK
BEACH
BEACH
KEY
Drive route
Irelands Eye
Irelands Eye
Baldoyle
Baldoyle
Santry
Sutton
Santry Sutton
Cross
Finglas Cross HOWTH
Finglas
HOWTH
Nose of
Raheny
Raheny Nose of
Howth
Glasnevin
Glasnevin Howth
ACTIVITIES Drumcondra
Drumcondra
Howth
Howth
Summit
See puffins from Howth or spot seals Summit
Phoenix
at Skerries Phoenix Clontarf Howth Baily
Clontarf
Baily
Howth
Park
Park Head Lighthouse
Head
Lighthouse
Play a round of golf at Portmarnock’s Chapelizod DUBLIN
Chapelizod
DUBLIN
famous links
Isle of Man,
Isle of Man,
Take a boat trip around Dublin Bay Dub lin Liverpool, Holyhead
Dub lin
Liverpool, Holyhead
from Malahide
B ay ay
B
Explore a Georgian stately home at Crumlin
Crumlin
Merrion
lovely Newbridge House Merrion
Milltown
Milltown
See traditional windmills and Bootertown
Bootertown
watermills in action at Skerries Mills
148-149_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 148 12/09/17 12:32 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Tour Map Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 25th March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro