(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 24: The Land of St Patrick 249


Mon–Sat; Jul & Aug: also Sun pm) on Slieve Donard Hotel, a spa hotel set
Market Street, traces his footsteps in between sea and mountains.
the area. He is said to be buried in Newcastle has a pleasant beach,
the graveyard of Down Cathedral, on but for more privacy drive 5 km
English St (turn left out of the St (3 miles) south of town, where
Patrick Centre and walk up the steps the Mourne coastal footpath gives
by the building), where a memorial access to secluded coastline. There
marks the spot. However, Armagh is a car park, picnic table and walks.
also claims to be his burial place. ª Continue south along the A2 to the
ª From Downpatrick, take the A25 to pretty town of Kilkeel and then turn
Clough and join the A2 for Newcastle. right onto the B27 to Hilltown. This
leads up into the Mourne Mountains.
Above Kilkeel Harbour, a major fishing port Above right Gothic arches of Cistercian Grey Abbey, founded in 1193 The Powers of St Patrick
Inspired by a vision, St Patrick came 9 Mountains of Mourne
to Ireland to convert the pagan Co Down
population to Christianity. Legend The Mourne Mountains lie in an Above Gothic flying buttresses at the ruined
credits him with many supernatural area of outstanding natural beauty. abbey in the pretty village of Greyabbey
deeds, including ridding the There are many popular walking
country of snakes.
trails (see far left) including those up
Slieve Donard and its slightly smaller
neighbour Slieve Commedagh,
with views as far as the Isle of Man EAT AND DRINK
on a clear day. The highlight of
this area is the Silent Valley (after NEWCASTLE
6.5 km/4 miles on the B27, turn right Sea Salt Delicatessen & Bistro
onto Head Road for the Visitor inexpensive
Tasty lunches daily and a varied
Centre), a reservoir flanked by the tapas-style menu Fri–Sat eve.
Mourne Wall, a 35-km (22-mile) 51 Central Promenade, BT33 0HH; 028
dry-stone wall linking 15 mountain 4372 5027; www.seasaltnewcastle.com
peaks. To experience its magical Hugh McCanns Café Bar Deli
silence take the 5-km (3-mile) walk moderate
around the reservoir. Return along Live entertainment, a varied menu and
Head Road to the B27 and turn right a great setting near the promenade.
to reach the Spelga Dam. 119 Central Promenade, BT33 0EU; 028
4372 2487; www.hughmccanns.com
The Silent Valley Visitor Centre (open
Above Portaferry, departure point for the ferry daily; 08457 440 088; www.niwater.com) AROUND NEWCASTLE
across the “Narrows” to Strangford has an exhibition about the area and a The Buck’s Head Inn moderate
café with stunning views. As the valley In an 18th-century building, this is a
8 Newcastle is closed to traffic, a shuttle bus service friendly spot with imaginatively cooked
seafood and other local produce.
Co Down runs between Ben Crom and the car 77 Main St, Dundrum, BT33 0LU
This seaside resort has a magnificent park (runs pm only; Jul–Aug: daily; rest (6 km/4 miles) north of Newcastle
setting, with the Mourne Mountains, of year: weekends). on the A24); 028 4375 1868
dominated by Slieve Donard (852 m/ It is possible to continue to pretty Mourne Seafood Bar moderate
2,796 ft), the highest mountain in Rostrevor, staying on the B27 to Delicious, fresh, locally caught seafood
Northern Ireland, rising behind the Hilltown and turning left onto the with unusual as well as well-known
town and Dundrum Bay. It is known B25. Rostrevor is known for its mild species appearing on the menu.
for its two golf courses, including the micro-climate and has parks and 10 Main Street, Dundrum, BT33 0LU
(6 km/4 miles) north of Newcastle on
links course at the Royal County picnic areas with views across to the A24); 028 4375 1377;
Down Golf Club, and the splendid Carlingford on the Cooley Peninsula. www.mourneseafood.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS wildlife. Or head to Tollymore Forest Family fun
Newcastle makes a good base Park for a scenic hike at the foothills of A great option on rainy days is the
to explore the various attractions the Mountains of Mourne 9. There Exploris Aquarium (open daily) in
in this area. Here are two day trips, are several hiking trails (the longest is Portaferry, near Strangford Lough
with an option for rainy weather. 13 km/8 miles), through forests and 5. There is a marine discovery lab
along the River Shimna. and a seal rescue centre.
Sea and mountains
Take a canoe trip on Strangford The park can be found 3 km/2 miles Retrace the drive on the A2/A25 to
Lough 5 to spot the abundant south of Newcastle. Strangford and Portaferry.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


246-249_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 249 13/10/17 1:06 pm

BR_IR_250-251_Opener25.indd 250 23/10/09 14:34:00
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
/& )2%,!.$
%VCMJO
/& )2%,!.$
/& )2%,!.$
(BMXBZ
(BMXBZ
%VCMJO
(BMXBZ
/& )2%,!.$
%VCMJO
/& )2%,!.$
(BMXBZ
%VCMJO
(BMXBZ
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
/& )2%,!.$
2%05",)#
(BMXBZ
/& )2%,!.$
(BMXBZ
(BMXBZ
/& )2%,!.$
%VCMJO
/& )2%,!.$
/& )2%,!.$
%VCMJO
%VCMJO
%VCMJO
(BMXBZ
(BMXBZ
%VCMJO
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
/& )2%,!.$
/& )2%,!.$
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
%VCMJO
(BMXBZ
2%05",)#
/& )2%,!.$
(BMXBZ
(BMXBZ
(BMXBZ
/& )2%,!.$
(BMXBZ
%VCMJO
%VCMJO
%VCMJO
%VCMJO
/& )2%,!.$
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
./24(%2.
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
#FMGBTU
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
4MJHP
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
%VOEBML
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
2%05",)#
(BMXBZ
/& )2%,!.$
/& )2%,!.$
/& )2%,!.$
/& )2%,!.$
(BMXBZ
%VCMJO
%VCMJO
(BMXBZ
%VCMJO
%VCMJO
(BMXBZ
(BMXBZ
%VCMJO
2%05",)#
/& )2%,!.$
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
-JNFSJDL
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
8FYGPSE
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
,JMMBSOFZ
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
$PSL
DRIVE 25 -JNFSJDL $PSL ./24(%2. %VCMJO
./24(%2. ./24(%2.
)2%,!.$ ./24(%2. #FMGBTU ./24(%2. )2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
)2%,!.$
#FMGBTU #FMGBTU ./24(%2. #FMGBTU #FMGBTU
4MJHP 4MJHP 4MJHP )2%,!.$ 4MJHP 4MJHP
%VOEBML
%VOEBML %VOEBML %VOEBML
2%05",)# 2%05",)# 2%05",)# 2%05",)# 2%05",)#
(BMXBZ /& )2%,!.$ %VCMJO (BMXBZ /& )2%,!.$ %VCMJO (BMXBZ /& )2%,!.$ %VCMJO (BMXBZ /& )2%,!.$ %VCMJO (BMXBZ /& )2%,!.$ %VCMJO
-JNFSJDL -JNFSJDL -JNFSJDL -JNFSJDL -JNFSJDL
8FYGPSE 8FYGPSE 8FYGPSE 8FYGPSE 8FYGPSE
,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ
$PSL $PSL $PSL $PSL $PSL
Fermanagh
Lakelands
Belleek to
Boa Island
Highlights
• Spectacular views
Contemplate one of the finest
views in Northern Ireland from
the Cliffs of Magho
• Spellbinding caverns
Wonder at the stalactite-filled
caverns and subterranean pools
of the Marble Arch Caves
• Neo-Classical stately homes
Experience the 18th-century
grandeur of Florence Court and
Castle Coole
• Tranquil waterways
Savour the peaceful waters of Lough
Erne, a paradise for nature-lovers,
bird-watchers and anglers
Boats moored at the marina of Castle
Archdale Country Park, Lower Lough Erne
BR_IR_250-251_Opener25.indd 251 23/10/09 14:34:03

252 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Fermanagh Lakelands

The inland county of Fermanagh in Northern Ireland is known as the
Lakelands, for more than a third of its total area lies under water. The
scenic waterways of Lough Erne, divided into Upper and Lower Lough
Erne, are the county’s main feature. Lower Lough Erne, set against a hilly
backdrop, is dotted with islands and flanked by castles, stately homes,
walks and forest parks. This tour includes all the highlights of Lower CarnCarn DrumskinnyDrumskinny
Lough Erne – exploring the lake by land and water, and taking in
its main sights, loveliest views and most interesting PettigoPettigo
activities. For outdoor enthusiasts there are BelaltBelalt ClonellyClonelly
underground rivers, caves, forests and ArdoreArdore LetterkeenLetterkeen
ruined castles, while others can visit KeshKesh
stately homes, a lace museum and LarkhillLarkhill StonefortStonefort BOA ISLANDBOA ISLAND DrumgrenaghanDrumgrenaghan
a china workshop. RossharbourRossharbour Lusty BegLusty Beg
DreenanDreenan IslandIsland DrumardDrumard
LeggsLeggs
CarrickacottiaCarrickacottia LustymoreLustymore
IslandIsland
Drumdu Drumdu
CASTLE ARCHDALECASTLE ARCHDALE MilltownMilltown
BELLEEKBELLEEK COUNTRY PARKCOUNTRY PARK IrvinestownIrvinestown
LisnarrickLisnarrick
RosscorRosscor DrumbadmeenDrumbadmeen GlenrossGlenross BrackaghBrackagh
EarrancassidyEarrancassidy Tully CastleTully Castle
L o w e r L o u g h
Church HillChurch Hill DerrynannyDerrynanny
L o w e r L o u g h
E E
DrumcrowDrumcrow r r
FERMANAGHFERMANAGH EastEast n e e KilladeasKilladeas
n
BallinamallardBallinamallard
LoughLough GarrisonGarrison GlenGlen DerrygonnellyDerrygonnelly LOWERLOWER WhitehillWhitehill
MelvinMelvin Shankill LOUGH ERNELOUGH ERNE BeaghBeagh
SlisgarrowSlisgarrow BugganBuggan Shankill
DrumcoseDrumcose BallycassidyBallycassidy CoaCoa
Moss eldMoss eld
RossinverRossinver MoneaMonea LowerLower BallyreaghBallyreagh
BallydoolagghBallydoolaggh
ScribbaghScribbagh ToneelToneel DevenishDevenish
TullybrackTullybrack IslandIsland
TullyskeherhyTullyskeherhy 358m358m Spring eldSpring eld
GarvaryGarvary
KiltyclogherKiltyclogher CavanacrossCavanacross
TullintloyTullintloy TullyrossmearanTullyrossmearan
BohoBoho SamsonaghSamsonagh ENNISKILLENENNISKILLEN MagonnaghMagonnagh
KillyhevlinKillyhevlin
CASTLE COOLECASTLE COOLE
GlenkeelGlenkeel
Above The still waters of Lough Macnean, near LoughLough MullylustyMullylusty Bellmore MountBellmore Mount
400m400m
Marble Arch Caves, see p254 Laghty BarrLaghty Barr MacneanMacnean CulkeyCulkey LisbellawLisbellaw
UpperUpper TamlaghtTamlaght
DrumaronDrumaron LetterbreenLetterbreen
BelcooBelcoo
ACTIVITIES BELLANALECKBELLANALECK
BlacklionBlacklion ArneyArney
GlenfarneGlenfarne TermonTermon Lough MacneanLough Macnean DerryharneyDerryharney
LowerLower
Explore Enniskillen Castle, a BlunnickBlunnick
stronghold that guarded the main BarranBarran DrummacabranagherDrummacabranagher InishmoreInishmore
pass to Ulster in medieval times CornageeCornagee WheathillWheathill FlorencecourtFlorencecourt
MackanMackan
Enjoy a cruise on Lough Erne or rent 0 kilometres 4 DrumcardDrumcard UpperUpper
a boat and visit some of the islands GowlanGowlan MARBLE ARCHMARBLE ARCH Lough ErneLough Erne
0 miles 4
CAVESCAVES FLORENCEFLORENCE Thompson’sThompson’s
Walk or cycle the scenic trails of COURTCOURT BridgeBridge
Castle Archdale Country Park KinawleyKinawley
CuilcaghCuilcagh KnockninnyKnockninny
Search for the mysterious stone KEY MountainsMountains
figures that inspired Seamus Heaney
in Caldragh Cemetery on Boa Island Drive route
252-253_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 252 11/09/17 11:39 am

DRIVE 25: Fermanagh Lakelands 253

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Belleek to Boa Island.
Number of days: 2 days.
Distance: 108 km (67 miles).
Road conditions: Mostly good
DrumskinnyDrumskinny although there are some uneven
CarnCarn
surfaces along the A46. Some of the
smaller roads around Monea and
PettigoPettigo Boho are liable to flooding. Lough
BelaltBelalt ClonellyClonelly
Navar Forest Drive is one-way and
ArdoreArdore LetterkeenLetterkeen uneven in parts.
KeshKesh When to go: Spring through to
LarkhillLarkhill StonefortStonefort BOA ISLANDBOA ISLAND DrumgrenaghanDrumgrenaghan autumn, when most attractions
are open and the weather is best.
RossharbourRossharbour Lusty BegLusty Beg
DreenanDreenan IslandIsland DrumardDrumard Above The main house, Castle Archdale
LeggsLeggs Opening times: Most shops and
CarrickacottiaCarrickacottia LustymoreLustymore Country Park, see pp256–7
IslandIsland attractions open 9 or 10am–5 or 6pm.
Drumdu Drumdu
CASTLE ARCHDALECASTLE ARCHDALE MilltownMilltown Shops open Mon–Sat; in large towns
BELLEEKBELLEEK COUNTRY PARKCOUNTRY PARK IrvinestownIrvinestown also 12–6pm on Sun. Convenience
LisnarrickLisnarrick stores in villages open 8am until late.
RosscorRosscor DrumbadmeenDrumbadmeen GlenrossGlenross BrackaghBrackagh
EarrancassidyEarrancassidy Tully CastleTully Castle Main market days: Belleek: third Tue
L o w e r L o u g h
Church HillChurch Hill DerrynannyDerrynanny
L o w e r L o u g h
E E of month; Enniskillen: Tue and Thu;
DrumcrowDrumcrow r r Farmers’ Market, every second Sat.
FERMANAGHFERMANAGH EastEast n e e KilladeasKilladeas
n
Shopping: Belleek is renowned for
BallinamallardBallinamallard fine Parian China. Enniskillen is a
LoughLough GarrisonGarrison GlenGlen DerrygonnellyDerrygonnelly LOWERLOWER WhitehillWhitehill centre for many crafts, including
MelvinMelvin Shankill LOUGH ERNELOUGH ERNE BeaghBeagh
SlisgarrowSlisgarrow BugganBuggan Shankill jewellery, ceramics and textiles.
DrumcoseDrumcose BallycassidyBallycassidy CoaCoa Handmade lace and linens are on
offer in Bellanaleck.
Moss eldMoss eld
RossinverRossinver MoneaMonea LowerLower BallyreaghBallyreagh
BallydoolagghBallydoolaggh Major festivals: Enniskillen: Drama
ScribbaghScribbagh ToneelToneel DevenishDevenish Festival, Mar; Upper and Lower Lough
TullybrackTullybrack IslandIsland
TullyskeherhyTullyskeherhy 358m358m Spring eldSpring eld Erne: Waterways Ireland Classic
GarvaryGarvary Fishing Festival, Apr; Lower Lough
KiltyclogherKiltyclogher CavanacrossCavanacross Erne: Vintage Car Rally, Aug.
TullintloyTullintloy TullyrossmearanTullyrossmearan
BohoBoho SamsonaghSamsonagh ENNISKILLENENNISKILLEN MagonnaghMagonnagh
KillyhevlinKillyhevlin
CASTLE COOLECASTLE COOLE
GlenkeelGlenkeel
LoughLough Bellmore MountBellmore Mount
MacneanMacnean MullylustyMullylusty 400m400m CulkeyCulkey
Laghty BarrLaghty Barr LisbellawLisbellaw
UpperUpper TamlaghtTamlaght
DrumaronDrumaron LetterbreenLetterbreen
BelcooBelcoo
BELLANALECKBELLANALECK
BlacklionBlacklion ArneyArney
GlenfarneGlenfarne Lough MacneanLough Macnean
TermonTermon LowerLower DerryharneyDerryharney
BlunnickBlunnick
BarranBarran DrummacabranagherDrummacabranagher InishmoreInishmore
CornageeCornagee WheathillWheathill FlorencecourtFlorencecourt
MackanMackan
DrumcardDrumcard
UpperUpper DAY TRIP OPTIONS
GowlanGowlan MARBLE ARCHMARBLE ARCH Lough ErneLough Erne
CAVESCAVES FLORENCEFLORENCE Thompson’sThompson’s For a first-rate family attraction visit
COURTCOURT BridgeBridge
KinawleyKinawley the Marble Arch Caves Geopark.
CuilcaghCuilcagh KnockninnyKnockninny Nature-lovers will enjoy walking,
MountainsMountains boating or cycling around the shores
of Lower Lough Erne. For full details,
see p257.
252-253_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 253 11/09/17 11:39 am

254 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Belleek Guided tours (mid-Mar–Oct: daily, last
Co Fermanagh tour 4.30pm, 5pm Jul–Aug; book during
This quiet village on the banks of peak times, 028 6634 8855) begin with
Lough Erne has quaint, hand- an underground boat ride through a
painted shop fronts. It is famous for mesmerizing landscape of stalactite-
its fine parian china, an industry filled caverns, stone pools, streams
introduced to the village by the and cascades, each feature
local landowner in 1857, in the atmospherically lit. The 9-m (30-ft)
wake of the potato famine. At the Marble Arch itself stands in a glen
Belleek Pottery Visitor Centre (Jan– at the confluence of three streams.
Feb: Mon–Fri; Mar–Dec: daily, Sun pm Tours last 75 minutes and are
only), guided tours take visitors to suitable for anyone of reasonable
see the delicate Belleek china being fitness (wear walking shoes and a
crafted and decorated. A museum warm sweater). Facilities include
displays Belleek ware from the a restaurant and exhibition area.
company’s earliest days, including ª Leaving Marble Arch Caves, drive
an urn-shaped vase made for the down the entrance road and turn left.
Above Walkway down to the Marble Arch 1900 Paris Exhibition, and there At the next T-junction, turn right.
Caves, one of Europe’s top show caves is a showroom and tearoom. Drive through the small hamlet of
ª Cross the bridge by the Pottery, Florence Court and turn right into
veer left then turn left and follow signs Florence Court.
for the A46, a lovely drive alongside
Lower Lough Erne. After 21 km (13 Lough Navar Forest Drive
miles), just after Tully Castle, turn right This is an extensive area of
onto the B81 at Binmore Road for woodland with a diverse array of
Derrygonnelly. Continue to Monea and habitats. A 7-mile (11 km) scenic
WHERE TO STAY 2 km (1 mile) after Monea turn right at tour, known as the Forest Drive
(open daily, 10am–sunset), begins off
the crossroads, then right again after the Glennasheevar Road between
AROUND MARBLE ARCH CAVES another 1 mile (2 km) at a T-junction. Derrygonnelly and Garrison, and
Customs House Country Inn Follow the signs to Belcoo, then turn emerges at the spectacular 300-m
inexpensive–moderate left in Blacklion for Florence Court. Turn (1,000 ft-) high Magho Cliffs, with
This country hotel is at Belcoo, on the right for the Marlbank Scenic Loop. The an outstanding viewpoint over
drive route from Belleek to Marble entrance for Marble Arch Caves is 8 km Lower Lough Erne, Donegal and
Arch Caves and 20 km (12 miles) from the surrounding mountains. From
the caves off the N16. It offers a warm (5 miles) along this drive, on the left. the main forest drive there are
welcome, good food and lovely views many short walks signed to
over Lough Macnean. 2 Marble Arch Caves various points of interest.
25–7 Main St, Belcoo, BT93 5FB; 028 6638 Marlbank, Co Fermanagh; BT92 1EW
6285; www.customshouseinn.com These unique show caves are among
Knockninny Country House Europe’s finest and are part of an area 3 Florence Court
inexpensive–moderate of outstanding geological interest Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh; BT92 1DB
Lovingly restored Victorian hotel, recognized by UNESCO. They were A beautiful stately home dating
complete with marina, situated on
Upper Lough Erne’s shoreline, 14 miles/ sculpted out of limestone, which from the early 18th century,
23 km from the caves on the A509. formed when Ireland was covered by Florence Court (grounds open daily;
Knockninny Quay, Derrylin, ocean some 330 million years ago. house open Mar–Sep: pm daily; Oct:
BT92 9JU; 028 6774 8590;
www.knockninnyhouse.com
AROUND ENNISKILLEN
Killyhevlin Hotel and Health Club
moderate
A peaceful place set in extensive
grounds on the shores of Lough Erne
just 1 km (half a mile) from Enniskillen
along the A4 to Castle Coole. The pool
and Jacuzzi are good places to unwind
after a day’s driving.
Killyhevlin, BT74 6RW; 028 6632 3481;
www.killyhevlin.com

Right Setting a gentle pace on a back road in
County Fermanagh
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £100; moderate, £100–£200; expensive, over £200


254-257_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 254 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 25: Fermanagh Lakelands 255


















Above left Monea Castle ruins, near Belcoo
pm weekends only; call in advance on 15th century by the Maguire Above Enchanting setting of Enniskillen Castle
028 6634 8249), was occupied by the family. Standing at the narrowest
Earls of Enniskillen until the early crossing point between the two
1950s, when it was acquired by the loughs, it has had an interesting EAT AND DRINK
National Trust. A guided tour reveals history and has been used as an
rich Rococo plasterwork – especially English garrison fort and military BELLEEK
on the ceilings of the dining room, barracks. The castle’s most stunning Thatch Coffee Shop inexpensive
Venetian room and staircase – all feature is the Water gate, a fairy- Pretty thatched tea room in the centre
restored following a fire in 1955, and tale twin-turreted tower, best of Belleek, with daily specials and
home baking.
fine Irish furniture. The grounds admired from the far bank of the 20 Main St, BT93 3FX; 028 6865 8181
have a water-powered sawmill, an river. It now houses the Fermanagh Moohans Fiddlestone
ice house, a forge, a walled garden County Museum and the Traditional-style pub with an open fire
and a forest park with walking trails. Inniskilling Museum. and regular music sessions.
ª At the exit, turn right, signposted Also in Enniskillen is the 15–17 Main St, BT93 3FY; 028 6865 8008
Enniskillen/A4. Then turn left onto the Buttermarket, a delightful enclave of AROUND MARBLE ARCH CAVES
A32 for Enniskillen and after 3 km small art galleries, craft studios and MacNean House and Restaurant
(2 miles), turn right. Continue for coffee shops set in the restored expensive
4 km (2 miles) to reach Bellanaleck. 19th-century dairy market. Run by award-winning chef Neven
Park at the lace museum. ª Leaving Enniskillen, follow signs Maguire. Outstanding food prepared
for Belfast/A4. Castle Coole is just with local ingredients and great
4 Bellanaleck over 2 km (1 mile) from Enniskillen. ambience in a village location 19 km
(12 miles) west of Enniskillen on N16.
Co Fermanagh An admission charge per car is taken Main St, Blacklion; Co Cavan; 071 985
The quirky Sheelin Antique Irish on the driveway. 3022; www.macneanrestaurant.com;
Lace Museum (open Mon–Sat) in closed Mon & Tue
Bellanaleck has around 700 6 Castle Coole ENNISKILLEN
examples of lace made in Ireland Enniskillen, Co Fermanagh; BT74 6JY The Jolly Sandwich inexpensive
between 1850 and 1900. It also sells One of Ireland’s finest Neo-Classical Buzzy daytime café/deli serving
vintage lace and linen, including houses, Castle Coole (open Mar–Sep; all-day breakfast, toasties, cupcakes
wedding dresses and veils, baby house pm only; call in advance on 028 and coffee.
bonnets, lace coasters and more. 6632 2690), was commissioned by the 3 Darling St, BT74 7DP; 028 6632 2277;
There is a sweet little tea shop first Earl of Belmore in the 1790s. Its closed Sun
next door. expense nearly bankrupted him. The Blake’s of The Hollow/Café Merlot
ª From Bellanaleck, take the A509 splendid Regency furnishings can moderate
north and turn right onto the A4 for be appreciated on a guided tour, Blake’s, the pub, is full of character,
with an original Victorian bar. Below
Enniskillen. For Enniskillen Castle, highlights of which include the State the pub, Café Merlot serves tasty
keep left through the town and park Bedroom, the Oval Saloon and the European dishes, slow-roast meats
at the free car park beside the castle. servants’ quarters. There is a lovely and seafood.
lakeside walk in the grounds. 6 Church St, BT74 7EJ; 028 6632 2143;
5 Enniskillen ª Take Castle Coole Road back towards www.blakesofthehollow.com
Co Fermanagh Enniskillen. Keep left at the mini Café Merlot: 028 6632 0918
This lively county town is situated roundabout and then turn right at the Franco’s Restaurant moderate
on an island between Lower and lights. At the roundabout, take the 4th Seafood is the speciality, but there is
also rib-eye steak, rack of lamb and
Upper Lough Erne. Its main sight is exit for the A32 for Irvinestown and Kesh. duck, as well as pasta and pizza.
Enniskillen Castle (open Mon–Sat; After 5 km (3 miles), turn left at the Queen Elizabeth Road, BT74 7DY; 028
Jul & Aug also Sun), built in the early roundabout onto the B82 for Killadeas. 6632 4424; www.francosrestaurant.co.uk
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


254-257_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 255 11/09/17 12:30 pm

256 BACK ROADS IRELAND


7 Lower Lough Erne
VISITING LOUGH ERNE Co Fermanagh
Lough Erne is divided into two
Exploring by boat
Boats can be rented for the day or half- distinct water systems. Upper Lough
day (Mar–Oct; 028 6862 8100; www. Erne is a maze of small channels and
manormarine.com). No experience joins the mighty Shannon river, while
required as instructions are given. Trips Lower Lough Erne is a vast lake set in
around the lake, on the Lady of the Lake unspoiled countryside, closer to the
cruise boat, passing Devenish, depart
from Rossclare Jetty at Killadeas sea. It is the perfect location for
(11:30am Sat year-round and 3pm activities such as water sports, bird-
daily Jul–Aug weather permitting); watching, boating and fishing, while
www.ladyofthelaketours.com. on land there are numerous trails for
hiking and cycling, as well as pony-
WHERE TO STAY trekking. There are over 150 small
islands and inlets to explore, and 12th-century round tower. Notice
LOWER LOUGH ERNE some of the larger islands boast the human faces carved above the
Manor House Country their own resorts. four windows, the only instance of
Hotel moderate To explore Lower Lough Erne, join such embellishment on an Irish
Situated 11 km (7 miles) from a cruise on board the comfortable round tower.
Enniskillen on the shores of Lough Lady of the Lake from Killadeas or White Island also has the remains
Erne along the B82 drive route, this rent a boat independently from of a 12th-century church, with eight
18th-century manor house combines
period elegance and modern comforts Manor House marina (see left). enigmatic figures along the interior
including a pool and sauna. Boats for One of the most interesting islands north wall. They are believed to
hire by the day or take a leisurely is Devenish Island, once called date from the 6th–9th centuries.
cruise around the lake (see above). Ox Island. It has the remains ª Leaving Killadeas, turn left onto the
Killadeas, BT94 1NY; 028 6862 2200; of a monastic settlement founded B82. After 2.5 miles (4 km), look for the
www.manorhousecountryhotel.com
by St Molaise in the 6th century, entrance to Castle Archdale Country
Lough Erne Resort expensive including a superb 25-m (82-ft) Park and park at the Visitor Centre.
Five-star resort in the shape of
luxury rooms and loughside lodges,
a spa and two championship-quality
golf courses. 8 Castle Archdale Country Park
Belleek Road, Enniskillen BT93 7ED; Irvinestown, Co Fermanagh; BT94 1PP
028 6632 3230; www.lougherneresort. This large country park on the shores of Lough Erne has mature
com
woodlands, a marina and a slipway, as well as many walking and
BOA ISLAND cycling trails and a red deer enclosure and butterfly garden. The
The Courtyard B&B moderate castle, built in the early 1600s, is now a ruin, accessible through
A private ferry takes visitors and their
cars to this idyllic 30-ha (75-acre) Castle Archdale Forest. The Visitor Centre, in the courtyard buildings
island. Tennis courts, indoor pool of the old manor house, has information on walks and wildlife. A
and nature trail. heritage trail links points of interest, including evidence of the park’s
Lusty Beg Island, Boa Island, Kesh,
BT93 8AD; 028 6863 3300; use by the RAF in World War II. In summer, boats are available for hire
www.lustybegisland.com to explore Lough Erne, and a ferry runs to White Island (see right).
A two-hour walking tour
White Island Start this 6-km (4-mile) walk at
Castle the Visitor Centre 1 and continue
Archdale
towards the walled garden 2, where
the road leads to the marina and
Tom’s Island caravan park. Enter the forest here
Davy’s Island and at the first junction turn left
Archdale towards the castle. Continue straight
Forest on to a cottage and a signpost for
Tom’s Island 3. Turn left here (if the
path is waterlogged, take the forest
Marina Walled road and then rejoin the path after
Garden
Visitor the jetty). Cross the causeway onto
Centre
0 metres 800 Inish Beg or Tom’s Island, keeping
left. The lakeside path has excellent
0 yards 800 views over to White Island (there is a
ferry to the island from the marina,
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £100; moderate, £100–£200; expensive, over £200

254-257_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 256 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 25: Fermanagh Lakelands 257

















Above far left Turret-like lodges of the Lough
see right) and of Lough Erne, turn left for Caldragh Cemetery. Erne Resort Above left The tranquil waters of
stretching into the distance. Keep Park at the bottom of the road and Lower Lough Erne, a haven for wildlife Above
walking along the path past the jetty access the graveyard through the Courtyard buildings of the old manor house at
and then inland slightly, following turnstile on the left. Castle Archdale
the river. Continue along this and
cross the access road. At the bridge 9 Boa Island
and tarmac road into the Forest Co Fermanagh
Service car park, turn right. The ruins The largest of Lough Erne’s islands, VISITING CASTLE ARCHDALE
of Castle Archdale 4 are here. In Boa is joined to the mainland by
the summer this area is particularly bridges at both ends. It is notable Visitor Centre
Castle Archdale Country Park,
enchanting with colourful wild for two mysterious stone figures, to Irvinestown, is 17 km (11 miles)
flowers in bloom. Turn left uphill be found in the centre of Caldragh northwest of Enniskillen; 028 6862
and take the path behind the castle. Cemetery, an early Christian 1588; open Easter–Oct daily, Nov–
At the junction turn left, then left graveyard at the western end of the Easter Sun 10am–4pm only
again at the next forest road, and island. The first, the Boa Island Figure, Boat and Bike Hire
then right. To return to the visitor is a carved stone, 1 m (3 ft) high, with Boats and bikes can be hired at
centre, trace the route back to the two faces, back to back; it is also weekends from Easter to the end of
September, daily in July and August.
forest and follow the road past known as the Janus Figure after the Boats take up to six people and
the walled garden. Roman god with two faces. It is instructions are provided.
ª Turn left onto the B72 for Kesh believed to represent a Celtic deity Bike Rental: 028 6862 1892
and after 2 km (1 mile) turn left for and symbolize fertility, but its true Ferry Trips
the Kesh scenic route. The road significance is uncertain. It is said The White Island ferry makes the
surface is uneven but there are lovely to have inspired Seamus Heaney’s 20-minute crossing to White Island
views of Lough Erne, with a viewpoint poem “January God”. (Easter–Sep weekends only, Jul–Aug
daily). There is also a ferry from Trory
about 1 km (half a mile) along. The second, smaller figure beside Point to Devenish Island (6 km/4 miles
At Kesh, turn left at the junction and it, the Lusty Man, was originally from Enniskillen on A32; Apr–Sep daily).
then left again at the T-junction for discovered in a cemetery on Lusty
Pettigo/Belleek, crossing the bridge. Mor Island, just south of Boa Island,
Take the next left onto the A47 for and was moved to its present EAT AND DRINK
Boa Island. On the island, there is a location in 1939. It is thought to be The hotels in the area offer several
signposted turn for Lusty Beg Island. older than the Janus figure, but is options for drinking and dining (see
About 2 km (1 mile) after this, similarly shrouded in mystery. Where to Stay, left).

DAY TRIP OPTIONS for families. Book ahead for the A day on Lough Erne
Enniskillen is an ideal base, the area’s tour, which includes a boat ride and Take one of the access points for a
best sites being within easy reach. walk through immense caverns. On lakeside walk along Lower Lough
The first trip takes in Marble Arch the way back to Enniskillen, stop Erne 7 or hire a boat to do some
Caves, followed by a visit to pretty at the Sheelin Antique Irish Lace independent island-hopping.
Bellanaleck. The second option is a Museum in Bellanaleck 4 (vintage Alternatively, rent a bike from Castle
day on Lower Lough Erne – choose items for sale), and have lunch or Archdale Country Park 8 and cycle
to explore by boat, bike or on foot. afternoon tea in the tea room. around the shoreline.
Caverns and lace Follow the A32 southwest for 17 km Head north from Enniskillen on the
Marble Arch Caves 2 are a global (11 miles) to reach the caves. Return A32/B82 for Castle Archdale Country
geopark and a popular attraction on the A32/A509 via Bellanaleck. Park and Killadeas.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


254-257_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 257 13/10/17 1:06 pm

258 BACK ROADS IRELAND

General Index

Page numbers in bold refer to main Ballyhoura Heritage Centre (Kilmallock) 118 Boyne Viaduct (Drogheda) 158
entries Ballymacarbry 76, 77 Brandon Creek 68
Ballymaloe Cookery School 36 Bray Tower (Valentia Island) 57
A Ballymastocker Bay 227 Brian Boru 115
Abbey of the Holy Sepulchre (Wexford Ballymoon Castle (Bagenalstown) 109 Brian Boru Heritage Centre (Killaloe) 115
Town) 100 Ballyporeen 77 Brickeen (Bricin) Bridge (Killarney National
accidents 18 Ballyronan Marina (Lough Neagh) 241 Park) 59
Achill Beg Island 196 Ballysadare 206, 207 Brigid’s Flame (Kildare Town) 144
Achill Island 196, 197 Ballyvaughan 126, 127 Brigit’s Garden 186
Achill Sound 196 Baltimore 44–5 Brittas Bay 136
Adare 112, 113, 118–19 Bantry 46, 47 Brú Ború Cultural Centre (Cashel) 90
Adrigole (Beara Peninsula) 48 Barley Cove Beach (Mizen Head Brú na Bóinne 160
Aer Arann 10 Peninsula) 41, 45 Bruree 118
Aherlow, Glen of 89, 91 Barrow Way (Bagenalstown) 109 Bullring (Wexford Town) 100
Aillwee Cave (The Burren) 127 bars 25 Bun na Leaca (Bloody Foreland) 217
air travel 10 Battle of the Boyne site 159 Bunbeg (An Bun Beag) 216, 217
Akeen, Lough 46 Bealick Mill Heritage Centre (Macroom) 49 Bunclody 107
Albert Clock (Belfast) 246 Beara Peninsula 38–9, 48, 49 Buncrana 226
Allihies (Beara Peninsula) 48 bed-and-breakfasts (B&Bs) 22–3 Bunmahon 75
Altamont Garden (Ballon) 108 Belfast 245, 246–7 The Burren 120–21, 122, 126, 127
ambulances 13 Belfast International Airport 10 The Burrow (Tramore) 75
Anascaul 64, 65 Belfry Tower (Trim) 157, 161 Burtonport (The Rosses) 218
Annestown 75 Bellanaleck 255 Bushmills 238, 239
Antrim, County 233–9, 246–7 Belleek 254, 255 Buttermarket (Enniskillen ) 255
Aran Heritage Centre (Aran Islands) 189 Belleek Pottery Visitor Centre 254
Aran Island (Árainn Mhór) 217, 218 Belvedere House and Gardens 164, C
Aran Islands (Oileáin Arann) 188–9 168–9 An Café Liteartha (Dingle) 65
Aran sweaters 189 Bere Island 48 cafés 25
Ardara 219 Bertraghboy Bay 188 Caherconnell Stone Fort (The Burren) 127
Ardgillan Demesne 153 Birr 166 Cahersiveen 57
Ards Forest Park 215 Bishop Lucey Park (Cork City) 34 Cahir 92, 93
Ashford Castle (Cong) 173, 179 Bishop’s Palace (Limerick) 116 Caldragh Cemetery (Boa Island) 257
Athassel Priory 86–7, 90 Bishop’s Palace (Waterford City) 74 Camel (Giant’s Causeway) 238
Athlone 166, 167 Black Abbey (Kilkenny) 82 Cappoquin 76
Athlone Castle 166 Black Castle (Bagenalstown) 109 Cappoquin House (Cappoquin) 76
Atlantic Drive (Achill Island) 196 Black Castle (Lough Gur) 117 car hire 20–21
Atlantic Drive (Co Donegal) 228, 229 Black Freren Gate (Kilkenny) 82 car travel 16–21
Augustinian Friary (Adare) 119 Black Head 122, 126 caravans 20–21
Avoca 136, 137 Blackwater 99 Carlow, County 85, 102–9
Avondale House and Forest Park 135 The Blasket Islands 66 Carlow Town 84, 85
Blasket Islands Centre (Dunquin) 67 Carmelite Friary (Rathmullan) 227
B Bloody Foreland 217 Carna (Bertraghboy Bay) 188
Bagenalstown 108–9 Blossom Gate (Kilmallock) 118 Carnfunnock Country Park 234, 235
Baily Lighthouse 148 Boa Island 256, 257 Carnlough 233, 235
Ballaghbeama Gap 57 boats 11 Carragh Lake 56
Ballina 115, 208 Boffin, Lough (Inishbofin Island) 175 Carran 127
Ballintubber Abbey 178 bogs, peat 168 Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge 230–31, 237
Ballon 108, 109 Bolton Library (Cashel) 90 Carrick Kildavnet (Atlantic Drive) 196
Ballycastle 236, 237 Book of Kells 151, 160 Carrickfergus 234
Ballyconnigar 99 Bord Fáilte 15 Carrickfergus Museum and Civic Centre 234
Ballycotton 33, 36, 37 Borris 85 Carrigart (Carraig Airt) 229
Ballycrovane (Beara Peninsula) 48 Borris House (Borris) 85 Carrowkeel Megalithic Cemetery 208–9
Ballydavid (Ballyferriter) 67 Botanic Gardens (Belfast) 247 Carrowmore Megalithic Cemetery 207
Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheirtéaraigh) 67 Bourchier’s Castle (Lough Gur) 117 Cashel 88, 89, 90, 91
Ballyhiernan Bay (Fanad Head) 229 Boyne Valley 156 Castle Archdale Country Park 253, 256–7





258-263_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 258 12/09/17 2:17 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Index Template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 19 August 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm

Index 259




Castle Coole 255 Comeragh Mountains 77 Diarmuid 203
Castle Grace (Clogheen) 77 communications 14 Dingle (An Daingean) 64, 65
Castle Ward 244, 248 Coney Island 206 Dingle Peninsula 60–69
Castlecove 55 Cong 178, 179 Dinis (Dinish) Cottage (Killarney National
castles, staying in 23 Connemara 170–79 Park) 59
Castletown House (Celbridge) 142 Connemara Coastal Drive 180–89 disabled drivers 20
Castletownbere (Beara Peninsula) 48 Connemara Marble Visitor Centre 186 Diseart Cultural Centre (Dingle) 65
Castletownshend 44 Connemara National Park 176 Doe Castle 215
Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception Conor Pass (An Chonair) 68, 69 Dominican Friary (Kilmallock) 118
(Sligo Town) 205 Coolattin Park (Shillelagh) 106 Donadea 142–3
Cathedral of St Carthage (Lismore) 77 Copper Mine Museum (Beara Peninsula) 48 Donegal, County
Celbridge 142, 143 Cork, County Dramatic Donegal 210–21
Charleville Forest Castle (Tullamore) 168 East Cork 30–37 Fanad Peninsula 222–9
Chester Beatty Library (Dublin) 150–51 West Cork 38–49 Donegal Abbey 221
Chorister’s Hall (Waterford City) 74 Cork City 32, 34–5 Donegal Castle 220–21
Christ Church (Clifden) 174 Corkscrew Hill 120–21 Donegal Town 220–21
Christ Church Cathedral (Dublin) 151 Corlea Trackway Centre 169 Dooagh 196, 197
Christ Church Cathedral (Waterford) 74 Corn Exchange (Drogheda) 158 Dooega (Atlantic Drive) 196
Christ the King statue (Glen of Aherlow Cornmarket Street (Cork City) 34 Doogort 197
Nature Park) 91 Corrib, Lough 173, 178, 179, 186 Doolin 126
Church of the Immaculate Conception Coumeenoole Bay 66–7 Doolough 177
(Wexford Town) 100 County Library (Sligo Town) 204 Dormitory of the Vicar’s Choral (Cashel) 90
City Hall (Belfast) 246 County Museum (Clonmel) 93 Down, County 244–5, 247–9
City Hall (Sligo Town) 204 County Museum (Sligo Town) 204 Down Cathedral (Downpatrick) 249
City Hall (Waterford) 74 Court House (Sligo Town) 205 Downhill Demesne 240
City Hall and Civic Centre (Limerick) 116 Crawford Art Gallery (Cork City) 34 Downings 229
Claddagh Ring 185 Croagh Patrick 190–91, 195 Downpatrick 248–9
Claddaghduff 175 Crookhaven (Mizen Head Peninsula) 45 driving in Ireland 16–21
Clane 142, 143 Cross of the Scriptures (Clonmacnoise) 166 Drogheda 158, 159
Clare, County 112–15, 120–27 Cruit Island (The Rosses) 218 Drombeg Stone Circle 44
Clare Museum (Ennis) 124 Curracloe 99 Drumcliffe 198–9, 201, 202, 203
Cleggan 175 The Curragh Racecourse 138–9, 144, 145 Dublin 149, 150–51
Clew Bay 190–91 currency 14–15 Dublin, County 146–53
Clifden 174, 175 Cush Sandspit (Tramore) 75 Dublin Castle 150
Cliffs of Moher 126 Cushendall 236, 237 Dublin City Gallery 151
Clogheen 76, 77 Cushendun 236, 237 Dublin Tourism Centre 15
Cloghmore (Atlantic Drive) 196 Dublin Writers Museum 151
Clonakilty 42, 43 D Duiske Abbey (Graiguenamanagh) 84
Clonbeg Church 92 Daly’s Bridge (Cork City) 35 Dúm Áilinne (Kilcullen) 145
Clonbur (Lough Corrib) 179 Darby’s Bed (Galbally) 92 Dun Aengus (Aran Islands) 189
Clonegal 107 D’Arcy Monument (Clifden) 174 Dún Chonchúir (Aran Islands) 189
Clongowes Wood College (Clane) 142 Delphi Valley 172, 176, 177 Dún Duchathair (Aran Islands) 189
Clonmacnoise 162–3, 166 Derg, Lough 114, 221 Dunbeg Fort 66, 67
Clonmel 93 Derrigimlagh Bog 186, 187 Dunfanaghy 214, 215, 216, 217
Clontallagh 229 Derry (Londonderry) 240, 241 Dungarvan 76, 77
coach travel 11 Derry, County 232, 239–41 Dungloe (The Rosses) 219
coastal landscapes 49 Derrynane Bay 55 Dunlewey (Dún Lúiche) 218
Cobh 30–31, 33, 36, 37 The Deserted Village 197 Dunlicky Road (Kilkee) 125
Colleen Baun Rock (Killarney National Desmond Castle (Adare) 119 Dunluce Castle 239
Park) 59 Desmond Castle (Kinsale) 42 Dunquin (Dun Chaoin) 67
Collegiate Church of St Nicholas (Galway) Devenish Island (Lough Erne) 256 Dursey Island 48
185 The Diamond (Donegal Town) 221
Collegiate Church of Saints Peter and Paul Diamond Hill Walk (Connemara National E
(Kilmallock) 118 Park) 176 Eamon de Valera Museum (Bruree) 118
Collins, Michael 42, 43 Diamond Rocks (Kilkee) 125 Easkey 207





258-263_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 259 12/09/17 2:17 pm

260 BACK ROADS IRELAND


Easkey, Lough 208 Galway, County 112–14, 172, 174–7, 179, Hawk’s Well Theatre (Sligo Town) 205
English Market (Cork City) 34, 35 180–89 health care 12–13
Ennis 124, 125 Galway Bay 122 Healy Pass (Beara Peninsula) 48
Enniscorthy 98, 99 Galway City Museum 184 Helvick Head 76
Enniscrone 207 Gap (Mount Melleray) 77 Heritage Centre (Kilrush) 124
Enniskerry 132, 133 Garnish Island 47 Heritage Centre (Skibbereen) 45
Enniskillen 254, 255 General Post Office (Dublin) 151 Heritage Museum (Inishbofin Island) 175
Erne, Lough 250–51, 256 Genesius Theatrical Museum (Bruree) 118 Hezlett House 240
Eske, River 210–11 Geokaun Mountains (Valentia Island) 57 High Cross (Drumcliffe) 203
Eyeries (Beara Peninsula) 48 Geological Garden (Bunmahon) 75 Highlanes Gallery (Drogheda) 158
Eyre Square (Galway) 184 George’s Head (Kilkee) 125 Hill of Slane 160
George’s Street Arcade (Dublin) 150 Hill of Tara 160, 161
F German Cemetery (Glencree) 133 Historic Gaol (Wicklow Town) 137
Fahamore (Maharees Peninsula) 69 Giant’s Causeway 232, 238 historic homes, staying in 23
Fahan Group (Dunbeg Fort) 62, 66 Gill, Lough 204, 205 Historic Science Centre (Birr) 166
Fahy Lough (Omey Island) 175 The Glebe House and Gallery 214 Holy Island (Mountshannon) 115
Fáilte Ireland 15 Glen of Aherlow Nature Park 89, 91 holy wells 92
Famine Memorial (Sligo Town) 204 Glenariff Forest Park 235 Hore Abbey (Cashel) 90
Famine Museum (Strokestown Park Glenariff Glen 235 Horn Head 216
House) 169 Glenarm Castle 235 Horn Head Bridge 216
Famine Walk (1849) 177 Glenarm Glen 234–5 Horse Museum (Irish National Stud) 145
Fanad Head 228–9 Glencar Lough and Waterfall 203 Hospital of St John the Baptist (Trim) 161
Fanad Lighthouse (Fanad Head) 228–9 Glencolmcille (Gleann Cholm Cille) 219 hotels 22–3
Fanad Peninsula 222–9 Glencree 133 Howth 152, 153
Fanore Beach (Black Head) 126 Glencree Centre for Peace and Howth Harbour 146–7
Fastnet Rock lighthouse 45 Reconciliation 133 Howth Summit 148, 152
Feohanagh (An Fheothanach) 68 Glendalough 134–5 Huguenot Quarter (Cork City) 34
Fermanagh, County 250–57 Glengarriff 46, 47 Hunt Museum (Limerick) 116
Fermanagh County Museum Glengesh Pass 219 Huntington Castle (Clonegal) 107
(Enniskillen) 255 Gleniff Horseshoe 202–3 Hyne, Lough 44
ferries 11 Glens of Antrim 237
Fitzgerald Park (Cork City) 35 Glenveagh National Park and Castle 214–15 I
29 Fitzwilliam Street Lower (Dublin) 150 Glinsk Castle (Kinnitty Forest) 167 Inagh Valley 186, 187
Flannan’s Cathedral (Killaloe) 115 Glór Music Centre (Ennis) 124 Inch Field (Cahir) 93
The Flats (Rathmullan) 226 Goleen (Mizen Head Peninsula) 45 Inch Point 64, 65
Flight of the Earls Visitor Centre Goleen Bay (Kilkee) 125 Inchagoil Island (Lough Corrib) 179, 186
(Rathmullan) 226 Gortin Glen Forest Park (Sperrin Inchydoney Island 42, 43
Florence Court 254–5 Mountains) 241 Inishbofin Island 174, 175
Flying Boat Museum (Foynes) 119 Gougane Barra Forest Park 48, 49 Inisheer (Aran Islands) 189
Fogher Cliffs (Valentia Island) 50–51, 57 Grafton Street (Dublin) 150 Inishmaan (Aran Islands) 189
Folk Village Museum (Glencolmcille) 219 Graiguenamanagh 78–9, 84, 85 Inishmore (Aran Islands) 189
food and drink 24–7 Gráinne 203 Inishmurray 200
Foohagh Point (Kilkee) 125 Grand Canal Way 143 Inistioge 84, 85
Fota Wildlife Park & House 35 Grand Opera House (Belfast) 246 Innisfree, Isle of 204
Foynes 119 Grange Stone Circle 117 Inniskilling Museum (Enniskillen) 255
Franciscan Abbey (Donegal Bay) 210–11, 212 Great Newtown Head (Tramore) 75 Irish coffee 118
Franciscan Friary (Adare) 119 Great Saltee Island 101 Irish National Heritage Park 99
Franciscan Friary (Clonmel) 93 Great Telescope (Birr) 166 Irish National Stud 140, 145
Grennan Castle (Thomastown) 84 Irish Raptor Centre 208
G Greyabbey 248 Irish whiskey 27, 239
The Gaeltacht 178, 228 guest houses 22, 23 Italian Gardens (Powerscourt Gardens) 132
Galbally 92 Gur, Lough 117 Iveagh Gardens (Dublin) 150
Gallaher, Dave 226 Iveragh Peninsula 52
Gallarus Oratory 67 H
Galley Cove (Mizen Head Peninsula) 45 Hag’s Head (Cliffs of Moher) 126 J
Galley Head 43 Hall of the Vicar’s Choral (Cashel) 90 Jealous Wall (Belvedere House) 164
Galway 184–5 Ha’Penny Bridge (Dublin) 149 Jerpoint Abbey 83





258-263_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 260 12/09/17 2:17 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Index Template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 19 August 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm

Index 261


John Roberts Square (Waterford) 74 Lismore 76–7 Miner’s Road (Glendalough) 135
John’s Gate (Kilmallock) 118 Lissadell House 203 Mizen Head Peninsula 45
Joyce, James 185 Londonderry (Derry) 240 Mizen Head Signal Station 45
Longford, County 169 Moll’s Gap 58
K Lough Derg Drive 114 Molly Malone statue (Dublin) 150
Keel 196, 197 Lough Key Forest Park 209 Monasterboice 159
Keem Bay 197 Lough Navar Forest Drive 254 money 14–15
Kells 160, 161 Loughcrew Cairns 160 Moore Abbey 92
Kells Monastery 160 Loughcrew Gardens 160 motorbikes 20
Kells Priory 83 Louth, County 158–9 motorhomes (RVs) 20–21
Kenmare 54, 55 Lustyman (Boa Island) 257 Mount Brandon 69
Kerry, County Lynch’s Castle (Galway) 184 Mount Errigal 214–15
Dingle Peninsula 60–69 Lynch’s Window (Galway) 185 Mount Leinster 102–3
Ring of Kerry 50–59 Mount Melleray 77
Kilbeggan 168 M Mount Stewart House and Gardens 247
Kilbeggan Distillery (Kilbeggan) 168 Maam Valley 186 Mount Usher Gardens 137
Kilcullen 145 MacNean, Lough 252 Mountains of Mourne 242–3, 248, 249
Kildare, County 138–45 Macroom 49 Mountbatten, Lord Louis 200
Kildare Town 141, 144, 145 McSwine’s Gun (Horn Head) 216 Mountshannon 114, 115
Kilkee 125 Maeve, Queen of Connaught 207 Mourne coastal footpath 249
Kilkenny City 81, 82–3 Magga Hill 127 Mourne Mountains 242–3, 248, 249
Kilkenny, County 78–85 Magheroarty 217 Moyne Abbey (Ballina) 208
Killaloe 115 Maharees Peninsula 68, 69 Muckish Mountain 217
Killarney 59 mail services 14 Muckross House (Killarney National Park)
Killarney National Park 53, 58–9 Main Guard (Clonmel) 93 58
Killary Harbour 176–7, 186 Malahide 152, 153 Muckross Lake 53, 58–9
Killybegs 220, 221 Malahide Castle and Demesne 152 Muiredeach’s Cross (Monasterboice) 159
Kilmalkedar Church 68 Maoinis (Bertraghboy Bay) 188 Mullaghmore 200, 202
Kilmallock 118 maps 19 Mullarkey’s Bar (Clifden) 174
Kilmore Quay 100, 101 Marble Arch Caves 254, 255 Mulroy Bay (Fanad Head) 229
Kilronan (Aran Islands) 189 Maritime and Heritage Centre (Killybegs) Murlough Bay 236
Kilrush 124 220 Museum of Free Derry (Derry) 240
Kilrush Creek Marina 124 Market Cross (Kells) 160 Mussenden Temple 240
Kincasslagh (The Rosses) 218 Market Square (Kildare Town) 144 Myshall 107
King John’s Castle (Limerick) 116 Market Yard (Kilkenny) 82
Kinnegar Head (Rathmullan) 226 Markievicz, Constance 203 N
Kinnitty Forest 167 Marsh’s Library (Dublin) 151 Na Seacht d’Teampaill (Aran Islands) 189
Kinsale 41, 42, 43 Mask, Lough 178, 179 Nafooey, Lough 170–71, 178, 179
Knockalla Mountain 227 Mass Rocks 215 National Famine Memorial (Croagh
Knocknarea 206–7 Maum (An Mám) 178 Patrick) 195
The Kyle 92–3 Maumturk Mountains 182, 186 National Gallery (Dublin) 150
Kylemore Abbey 176 Mayo, County 173, 177–9, 208 National Library of Ireland (Dublin) 150
Mayo’s Coastal Splendour 190–97 National Museum of Ireland (Dublin) 150
L Mayo’s Pirate Queen 195 Neagh, Lough 240, 241
Ladies’ View 58 Meath, County 156–7, 159–61 New Bridge (Sligo Town) 205
Lady’s Island Lake 101 medical treatment 12–13 Newbridge Demesne 153
Lakelands 162–9 Meeting of the Waters (Killarney National Newcastle 245, 248, 249
Larrybane 237 Park) 53, 58–9 Newgrange 157, 160
Leane Lough (Killarney National Park) 59 Meeting of the Waters (Vale of Avoca) 136 Newmills 214
Leenane 176–7, 186 Mellifont Abbey 154–5, 159 Newmills Corn and Flax Mills 214
Leighlinbridge 109 Merrion Square (Dublin) 150 Newtown Abbey (Trim) 161
Leitrim, County 203–4 Metal Man (Tramore) 75 Nier Valley Drive 77
Letterfrack (Connemara National Park) 176 Michael Collins Centre (Clonakilty) 42 Nora Barnacle House (Galway) 185
Limerick Town 116–17 Midleton 36, 37 Northern Ireland
Limerick, County 112–13, 116–19 Millmount (Drogheda) 158 Belfast to the Mountains of Mourne 242–9
Linen Hall Library (Belfast) 246 Milltown (Fanad Head) 229 Carrickfergus to Lough Neath 230–41
Linen Mill (Westport) 194 Minaun Heights 196 Fermanagh lakelands 250–57





258-263_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 261 12/09/17 2:17 pm

262 BACK ROADS IRELAND

O R St Mary’s Cathedral (Limerick) 116
O’Brien’s Castle (Aran Islands) 189 rail travel 11 St Mary’s Church (Clonmel) 93
O’Connell, Daniel 58 Ramelton 226 St Mary’s Church (Dingle) 65
O’Connell Street (Clonmel) 93 Rathellin Lock (Bagenalstown) 109 St Mary’s Church (Thomastown) 84
Octagon (Westport) 194 Rathgall 106 St Mary’s Church of Ireland (Carlow) 85
Offaly, County 166–8 Rathlin Island 237 St Munchin’s Church (Limerick) 116
O’Flaherty’s pub (Dingle) 65 Rathmullan 226–7 St Munchin’s Garden (Limerick) 116
Oileán Mhic Dara (Bertraghboy Bay) 188 Raven Point Loop (Curracloe) 99 St Muredach’s Cathedral (Ballina) 208
Old Bushmills Distillery 239 Rebellion (1798) 106 Saint Patrick Centre (Downpatrick) 248–9
The Old Distillery (Midleton) 36 Reefert Church (Glendalough) 135 St Patrick’s Cathedral (Cashel) 90
Old Head of Kinsale 42 Reginald’s Tower (Waterford) 74 St Patrick’s Cathedral (Dublin) 151
Old Kilcullen (Kilcullen) 145 restaurants 24 St Patrick’s Cathedral (Trim) 161
Old Quay (Clonmel) 93 Ring of Kerry 50–59 St Patrick’s Cross (Cashel) 90
Old Weir Bridge (Killarney National Park) 58 road travel 16–21 St Paul’s (Cahir) 93
Oldbridge House (Battle of the Boyne site) Robertstown 143 St Peter’s Bridge (Trim) 161
156, 159 Rock of Doon 215 St Peter’s Church (Donadea) 143
O’Malley, Grace 195 Rockwood Parade (Sligo Town) 205 St Peter’s Church of Ireland (Drogheda) 158
Omey Island 175 Rosapenna 229 St Sedan’s Well (Clonbeg Church) 92
Opera House (Wexford Town) 100 Roscommon, County 169, 209 St Stephen’s Green (Dublin) 150
Ormonde, Dukes of 83 Rosguill Peninsula 229 Sally Gap 128–9, 133
Oughterard 186, 187 Rosscahill Pier 195 Sarsfield Bridge (Limerick) 117
Oulart Hill 98–9 Rosscarbery 43 Sathya Sai Sanctuary Trust 209
Oyster Island 206 Rosserk Friary (Ballina) 208 Scattery Island 124
The Rosses (Na Rosa) 217, 218–19 Schull (Mizen Head Peninsula) 45
P Rosses Point 206 Scraggane Bay (Maharees Peninsula) 69
Parke’s Castle (Lough Gill) 204 Rossnowlagh 220, 221 Sea Sky Shore Gallery (Westport) 194
Parnell, Charles Stewart 135 Rostrevor 249 sea travel 11
Pass of Caherconree 64 Rothe House (Kilkenny) 82–3 Shaking Rock 208
passports 12, 13 Round Tower (Cashel) 90 Shanagarry 36–7
Patrick, St 195, 249 Round Tower (Glendalough) 134 Shannon, River 112, 162–3
Pearse, Pádraig 188 Round Tower (Kildare Town) 144 Shannon Development 15
Pearse’s Cottage (Teach an Phiarsaigh) 188 Roundstone 186, 187 Sheelin Antique Irish Lace Museum
peat bogs 168 (Bellanaleck) 255
Penn, William 36 S Sheep Gate (Trim) 161
picnics 25 St Adjutor’s Church (Wexford Town) 100 Sheeps Head Peninsula 46–7
Pikeman (Wexford Town) 100 St Aidan’s Cathedral (Enniscorthy) 98 Shepherd’s Steps (Giant’s Causeway) 238
Plains of Kildare 138–45 St Ann’s Church (Cork City) 34 Shillelagh 106
Pollock Holes (Kilkee) 125 St Anne’s Cathedral (Belfast) 246 Silent Valley (Mountains of Mourne) 249
Portmarnock Beach 152 St Berrihert’s Well (The Kyle) 92–3 Skellig Experience Centre (Valentia Island) 56
Portnahally (Atlantic Drive) 196 St Brigid’s Cathedral (Kildare Town) 141, 144 Skellig Michael 56, 57
Portrush 239 St Canice’s Cathedral (Kilkenny) 81, 82 Skellig Ring Drive 56, 57
Portsalon 228 St Colmain’s Well (The Burren) 127 Skerries 153
Portstewart 239 St Cormac’s Chapel (Cashel) 90 Skerries Mills 153
Portumna 114, 115 St Fin Barre’s Cathedral (Cork City) 35 Skibbereen 44, 45
Post Office (Sligo Town) 204 St Finbarr’s Oratory (Gougane Barra Forest Sky Road 174, 175
Poulanass Waterfall (Glendalough) 135 Park) 49 Slane 160, 161
Poulnabrone Dolmen (The Burren) St Gobnait (Aran Islands) 189 Slane Castle 160
127 St John’s Cathedral (Sligo Town) 205 Slaney, River 104
Powerscourt Estate 130, 132, 133 St Joseph (Clifden) 174 Slea Head 66
The Priest’s House (Glendalough) 134 St Kevin’s Bed (Glendalough) 135 Slieve Bloom Mountains 167
Protestant Church (Clane) 142 St Kevin’s Cell (Glendalough) 135 Slieve Commedagh 249
pubs 25, 27 St Kevin’s Cross (Glendalough) 134 Slieve Donard 249
Punchestown 145 St Kevin’s Kitchen (Glendalough) 134 Slieve Donard Hotel (Newcastle) 249
St Kieran’s Church (Glendalough) 134–5 Slieve League (Sliabh Liag) 220
Q St Laurence’s Gate (Drogheda) 158 Sligo, County 200–209
Queen’s University (Belfast) 246–7 St Mary’s Bridge (Drogheda) 158 Sligo Town 204–5
Quiet Man Museum (Cong) 179 St Mary’s Cathedral (Killarney) 59 Sneem 53, 54, 55





258-263_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 262 12/09/17 2:17 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Index Template (OpenType) “UK” LAYER
Date 19 August 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm

Index 263


Spanish Arch (Galway) 184 Torc Waterfall (Killarney National Park) 59 Waterford Chamber of Commerce 74
Spanish Point (Mizen Head Peninsula) 45 Torr Head 236 Waterford glass 75
Spelga Dam (Mountains of Mourne) 249 Tory Island 217 Waterville 54, 55
Sperrin Mountains 241 tourist information 15 Waterworld (Portrush) 239
Spiddal (An Spidéal) 188, 189 trains 11 Well of Doon 215
Spiddal Craft Village 189 Tralee 64 wells, holy 92
The Spire (Dublin) 151 Tramore 75 West Cork Garden Trail 47
Staigue Fort 54–5 Tramore Beach (Horn Head) 216 West Cork Model Railway Village
Standing Stone (Rathmullan) 227 Tranarossan Bay 229 (Clonakilty) 42
Station House Museum (Clifden) 174 travel 10–11 West End (Kilkee) 125
Station Island (Lough Derg) 221 Treaty Stone (Limerick) 116–17 West Gate (Clonmel) 93
Statutes of Kilkenny 84 Trim 157, 161 West Kerry Museum (Ballyferriter) 67
Strandhill 206, 207 Trinity College Dublin 150 West Town (Tory Island) 217
Strangford Lough 244, 248 Triton Lake (Powerscourt Gardens) 132 Westgate Heritage Centre (Wexford
Strokestown 168 Tullamore 168 Town) 100
Strokestown Park House and Garden 169 Tullamore Dew Visitor Centre 168 Westmeath, County 166, 168–9
Swiss Cottage (Cahir) 93 Tullow 104, 106, 107 Westport 194–5
Synge, J M 189 Tyrone, County 232, 241 Westport House and Gardens
Synge’s Cottage (Aran Islands) 189 (Westport) 194
U Wexford, County 94–101
T Ulster American Folk Park 241 Wexford Harbour 97
Tacumshane 96, 101 Ulster Bank (Sligo Town) 204 Wexford Opera Festival 100
takeaways 25 Ulster Folk and Transport Museum 246, 247 Wexford Town 100, 101
Talbot Botanic Gardens (Malahide) 152 Ulster Museum (Belfast) 247 Wexford Wildfowl Reserve (Curracloe)
Talbot Castle (Trim) 161 Upper Lake (Glendalough) 135 99
Talt, Lough 208 Upper Lake (Killarney National Park) Whiddy Island 47
Tarbert 119 53, 58–9 whiskey, Irish 27, 239
Tarbert Bridewell Courthouse Whispering Door (Clonmacnoise) 166
and Jail 119 V White Island (Lough Erne) 256
Tarbert Lighthouse 119 Vale of Avoca 136, 137 Whitefriars Street Church (Dublin) 151
Tawnyard Pass 177 Valentia Island 50–51, 56–7 Wicklow, County 128–37
Teampall Chiaráin (Aran Islands) 189 Valley of the Kings 154–61 Wicklow Harbour 131
telephones 14 Vandeleur Walled Garden (Kilrush) 124 Wicklow Head 136, 137
Temple Bar (Dublin) 151 Vee (Mount Melleray) 77 Wicklow Mountains 132, 133
Temple of the Winds (Mount Stewart Ventry (Ceann Tra) 66, 67 Wicklow Town 136, 137
Gardens) 247 Viaduct (Borris) 85 Wicklow Way 135
Tholsel (Kilkenny) 83 Viking Country 70–77 wildfowl, Wexford 99
Thomastown 84 Vinegar Hill 98 Wishing Chair (Giant’s Causeway) 238
The Thosel (Drogheda) 158 visas 12, 13 Woodenbridge (Vale of Avoca) 136
Three Castle Head (Mizen Head Woodstock Gardens (Inistioge) 84
Peninsula) 45 W The Workhouse (Dunfanaghy) 215
Tipperary, County 77, 86–93, 112–13, 115 Walled Garden (Glenarm Castle) 235
tips, in restaurants 24 Warden Beach (Ballymastocker Bay) 227 Y
Titanic Trail (Cobh) 36 Waterfoot 235 Yeats, W B 182, 200, 201, 202, 203, 204,
Tomnafinnoge Wood (Shillelagh) 106 Waterford 70–71, 74, 75 207
Tom’s Island (Castle Archdale Country Waterford, County 70–77 Yeats Memorial Building (Sligo Town) 204
Park) 256 Waterford Catholic Cathedral 74 Youghal 37

The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press.
Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and
travel information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising
from the use of this book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot guarantee that any website
address in this book will be a suitable source of travel information.
We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel
Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, or email: [email protected].





258-263_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 263 12/09/17 2:17 pm

264 BACK ROADS IRELAND Acknowledgments

Acknowledgments

Dorling Kindersley would like to thank the many people whose Maps
help and assistance contributed to the preparation of this book. John Plumer, JP Map Graphics Ltd, www.jpmapgraphics.co.uk
Picture Credits
Every effort has been made to trace the copyright holders of images, and
Main Contributors we apologize in advance for any unintentional omissions. We would be
Brian Daughton is a versatile travel writer and award-winning pleased to insert the appropriate acknowledgments in any subsequent
edition of this publication.
photographer. He has contributed to many publications,
including Time Out’s Flight-Free Europe, the Guardian, Photo The Publishers would like to thank the following individuals, companies
and picture libraries for their kind permission to reproduce their
District News (PDN), Foto Mundo and the Suddeutsche Zeitung. photographs:
He also lectures at the University of the Arts and London Met. t=top; tc = top centre; tl=top left; tr=top right; c=centre; cl=centre left;
cr=centre right; bc = bottom centre; bl=bottom left; br=bottom right.
John S Doyle is a freelance journalist and lives in Dublin. Alamy Images: Design Pics Inc. - RM Content 138-9; Dennis Flaherty 92bc;
JoeFox CountyMayo 208br; Fabrice Lambert 206br; Mira 226ca; Keith Nuttall
Yvonne Gordon is a features and travel writer and a radio 227tr; scenicireland.com/Christopher Hill Photographic 214ca;
Stuwdamdorp 10tr; Peter Titmuss 10bl. Barberstown Castle: 142tl. Borris
broadcaster. Born in Dublin, she has travelled the length and House: 85clb. Corbis: Richard Cummins 125tr; Destinations 73t, 75tl, 227bc;
breadth of Ireland since childhood. As well as writing travel JAI/Doug Pearson 180-1; Ladislav Janicek 5bc; Arthur Morris 94-5. Michael
Diggin: 15tl. Dreamstime.com: Gabe9000c 34tl. Dublin Mountains
features for newspapers such as the Irish Times, magazines and Partnership: Karen Woods 143br. Mark Fearon/www.photographersdirect.
international travel websites, she has contributed to four com: 207bl. Flickr.com: www.flickr.com/photos/jule_berlin/560207760/
218ca; www.flickr.com/photos/dnlbyl/2213073893 Donal Boyle 218br.
guidebooks to Ireland. . Galway City Museum: 185br. Getty Images: Axiom Photographic Agency/
Richard Cummins 9br; Axiom/IIC 2-3, 136br, 183br, 183tl, 192cl, 225bl; Lonely
Planet Images/Gareth McCormack 217tl; Lonely Planet Images/Richard
Editorial Consultant Cummins 70-1; Photographer’s Choice/Andrew Holt 16br, 26tr;
Donna Dailey Photographer’s Choice/Brian Lawrence 222-3; Riser/Joe Cornish 190-1;
Robert Harding World Imagery/Gary Cook 193tl; Robert Harding World
Imagery/Martin Child 26br; Robert Harding World Imagery/Richard
Fact checker Cummins 76tl; Stephen Rafferty 245bc; Robert Harding World Imagery/Roy
Rainford 7cl. The National Trust Photo Library ©NTPL: 247bc, 248br.
Sylvia Earley Newmills Corn and Flax Mills: David Armour 214tc. Photolibrary: Design
Pics Inc/The Irish Image Collection 77tr.Sathya Sai Sanctuary Trust for
Nature: 209tl. Strokestown Park: 169tl, 169tr. Tipperaryphotos.com: 13tl.
Proofreaders
Jane Ellis and Linda McQueen Sheet Map
Alamy Images: Tom Mackie front; Robert Harding Picture Library Ltd/
FireCrest back.
Indexer Map Cover
Hilary Bird 4Corners: Maurizio rellini / siMe.
Jacket
Special Assistance Front: 4Corners: Maurizio rellini / siMe; Back: alaMy iMages: Kuttig – Travel tl;
Derek Earley, Ciara Kenny and Lewis Reed for test-drives; getty iMages: Axiom Photographic Agency/Richard Cummins tc, Travel Ink tr;
Spine: 4Corners: Maurizio rellini / siMe.
Fiona Riordan at EGMC for supplying road signs
All other images © Dorling Kindersley
For further information see: www.dkimages.com
Photography
Brian Daughton, Stephen Power
The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Additional Photography Even though every effort has been made to ensure that this
Joe Cornish, Tim Daly, Steve Gorton, Jamie Marshall, book is as up-to-date as possible at the time of going to press.
Some details, however, such as telephone numbers, opening
Ian O’Leary, Rough Guides/Roger Mapp, Antony Souter, hours, prices, gallery hanging arrangements and travel
Clive Streeter, Alan Williams information are liable to change. The publishers cannot accept
responsibility for any consequences arising from the use of this
book, nor for any material on third-party websites, and cannot
guarantee that any website address in this book will be a
Revisions Team suitable source of travel information. We value the views and
Louise Abbott, Louise Cleghorn, Dipika Dasgupta, Brian suggestions of our readers very highly. Please write to: Publisher,
Daughton, Lydia Halliday, Sumita Khatwani, Darren Longley, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley, 80 Strand,
London WC2R 0RL, or email: [email protected].
Sands Publishing Solutions, Susana Smith, Ajay Verma
SPECIAL EDITIONS OF DK TRAVEL GUIDES
DK Travel Guides can be purchased in bulk quantities at To find out more, please contact:
discounted prices for use in promotions or as (in the US) [email protected]
premiums. (in the UK) [email protected]
We are also able to offer special editions and
personalized jackets, corporate imprints, and excerpts (in Canada) [email protected]
from all of our books, tailored specifically to meet your (in Australia) penguincorporatesales@
own needs. penguinrandomhouse.com.au
264_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 264 12/09/17 2:19 pm