(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

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Legends
and Lakes
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Highlights
• Majestic Ben Bulben
See the majestic mountain that
dominates much of the county,
changing mood with the weather
• Literary landscapes
Trace the places mentioned in the
poems of Irish poet W B Yeats, and
visit his grave in Drumcliffe
• Seaside Sligo
Potter around pretty Mullaghmore,
surf the waves at Strandhill, and enjoy
a walk and pub lunch at Rosses point
• Legendary burial site
Scale the mountain-top burial place
at Knocknarea attributed to Celtic
warrior Queen Maeve
Shady Drumcliffe churchyard, the burial
place of Ireland’s greatest poet, W B Yeats
BR_IR_198-199_Opener20.indd 199 23/10/09 14:31:14

200 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Legends and Lakes MULLAGHMORE Bundoran
Bundoran
MULLAGHMORE
Tullaghan
Tullaghan
County Sligo is an enchanting place to visit, full of stories, poetry and Castlegal Kinlough
Kinlough
legend. Two dramatic mountains – mighty Ben Bulben and cairn-topped Castlegal Balloor
Conors
Balloor
Knocknarea – overlook much of the county, a landscape that inspired the Inishmurray Conors Cli ony Ballaghnatrillick
Cli ony
Island
Inishmurray
Island
Streedagh
poetry of William Butler Yeats, who spent his childhood here. Sligo Town is Streedagh Point Mount Temple Ballaghnatrillick Largydonnell
Point
Largydonnell
an upbeat city, with a small-town friendliness and a lively river front. South Grange Mount Temple GLENIFF HORSESHOE
Grange
of here are the surfing resorts of Strandhill and Enniscrone, also known Breaghwy Gleni GLENIFF HORSESHOE
Gleni
Truskmore
Breaghwy
Glenade
Truskmore
Mullaghnaneane
Cloonagh
for their seaweed baths, and the Ox Mountains, where Lough Easkey Cloonagh Ballinphull Mullaghnaneane D a r t r y 644m Glenade Leckanarainey
644m
Ben Bulben
and Lough Talt offer good trout fishing and walks. For a feel of Ballyconnell Ballinphull LISSADELL Ben Bulben 526m D a r t r y M t s M t s Leckanarainey
Ballyconnell
GLENCAR LOUGH
LISSADELL
526m
HOUSE
AND WATERFALL
ancient Ireland, visit the passage tombs at Carrowmore, the HOUSE GLENCAR LOUGH
AND WATERFALL
DRUMCLIFFE
Carney
Stranea
Gurteen
largest megalithic burial site in Ireland, or remote Raghly Carney DRUMCLIFFE Stranea Gurteen Bonet Bonet Lisnabrack
Raghly
Lisnabrack
Rathcormack
Carrowkeel overlooking Lough Arrow. Slig o Ba y ROSSES Rathcormack Manorhamilton
ROSSES
Lenadoon Slig o Ba y POINT Drum Manorhamilton
EASKEY
Lenadoon Point EASKEY POINT Drum
Point Aughris Colgagh Five Mile
Killeendu Aughris STRANDHILL Colgagh Five Mile Cloonaquin
Head
Bourne
Killeendu Head STRANDHILL SLIGO Bourne Leckaun Cloonaquin
KNOCKNAREA
TOWN
Carrowreagh
Key Kilmacurran Dromore Kilrusheighter Carrowreagh KNOCKNAREA SLIGO Leckaun
TOWN
Kilrusheighter
West
Killala
Carrigeencor
CARROWMORE
PARKE’S CASTLE
Lough
Kilglass
Drive route Killala Kilglass Kilmacurran Dromore Templeboy CARROWMORE Lough Gill PARKE’S CASTLE Carrigeencor
West
Templeboy
MEGALITHIC
AND LOUGH GILL
Dromard
B ay
B ay Owenbeg Skreen Dromard MEGALITHIC Gill AND LOUGH GILL
CEMETERY
CEMETERY
Killarga
Barnagh Owenbeg Skreen Ballysadare Bay Dromahair Killarga
Barnagh Ballysadare Bay Belladrihid Dromahair
Island
Killala Island Enniscrone Rathgoonaun Beltra Belladrihid
LEITRIM
Killala Enniscrone Culleens Rathgoonaun Beltra Castleore LEITRIM
Castleore
BALLYSADARE
Cloonawillin Rusheens Culleens BALLYSADARE Killanummery
Cloonawillin Rusheens Carrowgun Knockalongy Glen Ballygawley Ballintogher Killanummery
Carrowgun Knockalongy 544m Glen Wood Collooney Ballygawley Ballintogher Beagh
544m
Wood Collooney
S l i e v e G a m p
Corballa Gowlan Gowlan Cappagh Coolaney Beagh
Corballa Cappagh Coolaney Toberscanavan Drumkeerin
Castleconor Lough Toberscanavan Greaghnafarna Drumkeerin
SLIGO
Castleconor Newtown Lough Coola Greaghnafarna
Easkey
Newtown Easkey SLIGO Rathnarrow Coola
Carha S l i e v e G a m p h h Rathnarrow
Crockets Carha Unshin
Cloonkee M o u n t a i n s n s Carrowneden Unshin Drummacool
Cloonkee Crockets Town M o u n t a i Carrowneden Carrowmore Ballynacarrow Riverstown Drummacool Corry Mt
Riverstown
Town
Ballynacarrow
Corry Mt
391m
Drum n
Carrownadargny
Bunnyconnellan
Ardnareee
Drum n
BALLINA
Ballyglass
Crossmolina Derreen BALLINA Ardnareee Bunnyconnellan Ballyglass Carrowmore IRISH RAPTOR Ballinphull Carrownadargny 391m
Cloonacool
Crossmolina Derreen Gleneask Cloonacool Ballinvally IRISH RAPTOR Ballinphull
CENTRE
CENTRE
Geevagh
Garrycloonagh MA YO Gleneask Moy Ballinvally Portinch Ballymote Geevagh
LOUGH TALT
Castlebaldwin
Ellaghmore
Garrycloonagh MA YO Ellaghmore LOUGH TALT Moy Portinch Ballymote Castlebaldwin
Lough
Ballyfarnan
Achonry
Lough Castleloye Achonry Ballyfarnan
Conn
Sathya Sai Sanctuary
Rathmelton
Lough
Conn Corroy Mullahawney Mullanys Castleloye Rathmelton Sathya Sai Sanctuary Lough Kilmactranny Lough
Corroy Mullahawney Mullanys Lough Kilmactranny Meelagh
Meelagh
Crosss
Arrow
Annagh
Lough
Bunnanaddan
Crosss Annagh Tobercurry Bunnanaddan CARROWKEEL Arrow Lough
Skean
Keadew
MEGALITHIC
Tobercurry CARROWKEEL Skean Keadew
Glendadu Aclare Toorlestraun Killavil MEGALITHIC
CEMETERY
Moy
Glendadu Aclare Toorlestraun Killavil CEMETERY Corrigeenroe
Moy
Moylough
Culfadda
Moylough Culfadda Carrowcrory Ballinafad Corrigeenroe Crossna
Carrowcrory Ballinafad Crossna
Lough
Cloonfeightrin
ACTIVITIES Cloonfeightrin Gorteen Doon Doon Lough Knockvicar
Key
Gorteen Cornaglia Key Knockvicar
LOUGH
Cornaglia
Mullaghroe LOUGH
Cootehall
Imagine the life of a 17th-century Mullaghroe KEY KEY Cootehall
Boyle
Adcarn
colonist at Parke’s Castle on the shore Boyle Adcarn
of Lough Gill, then take a boat to
Yeats’ beloved isle of Innisfree
Read the letters and other writings
of W B Yeats in Sligo County Library
Relax in a seaweed bath at
Enniscrone or Strandhill, perhaps after
a round of golf or a surfing lesson
Cast for trout or even salmon in
River Ballysadare or Lough Easkey
Pet the equine inmates at a donkey
and pony sanctuary at Castlebaldwin
or watch a bird-flying display at the
Irish Raptor Centre at Ballymote Above The fishing village of Mullaghmore, a springboard for boat trips to Inishmurray, see p202
BR_IR_200-201_Itinerary20.indd 200 30/08/2012 10:34
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Tour Map Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 03rd March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro

DRIVE 20: Legends and Lakes 201

Bundoran
MULLAGHMORE
MULLAGHMORE Bundoran PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Tullaghan 0 kilometres 6
Tullaghan Start/finish: Mullaghmore to
Castlegal Kinlough
Castlegal Kinlough
0 miles 6 Lough Key.
Conors Balloor
Conors Balloor
Inishmurray Island Cliffony Number of days: 4–5, allowing 1–2
Ballaghnatrillick
Inishmurray Streedagh Island Cliffony Ballaghnatrillick
Streedagh Point Largydonnell days north of Sligo Town, half a day in
Mount Temple
Point Mount Temple Largydonnell
Grange the town and 2 days to its south.
GLENIFF HORSESHOE
Grange GLENIFF HORSESHOE
Gleniff
Breaghwy Gleniff Truskmore Distance: Approx 200 km (125 miles).
Breaghwy Truskmore Glenade
644m
Cloonagh Mullaghnaneane Glenade
Cloonagh Ballinphull Mullaghnaneane 644m
D a r t r y
Leckanarainey
Ballinphull Ben Bulben D a r t r y M t s M t s Leckanarainey Road conditions: The drive includes
Ballyconnell Ben Bulben 526m
LISSADELL
GLENCAR LOUGH
Ballyconnell LISSADELL 526m GLENCAR LOUGH some unclassified roads, which are
HOUSE
AND WATERFALL
HOUSE AND WATERFALL narrow and may not have markings.
Carney DRUMCLIFFE Stranea
Raghly Carney DRUMCLIFFE Stranea Gurteen Bonet Lisnabrack Take care on these roads, especially
Raghly Rathcormack Gurteen Bonet Lisnabrack on bends. You may encounter sheep
Rathcormack
ROSSES
Slig o Ba y
Manorhamilton
Slig o Ba y ROSSES Manorhamilton
Lenadoon POINT Drum or other wildlife on rural roads.
EASKEY
Lenadoon Point EASKEY POINT Drum
Point Aughris Colgagh Five Mile
Killeenduff Aughris STRANDHILL Colgagh Five Mile Cloonaquin When to go: Spring to autumn is
Head
Bourne
Killeenduff Head STRANDHILL SLIGO Bourne Leckaun Cloonaquin
Carrowreagh KNOCKNAREA SLIGO Leckaun best, but it can be wet and windy at
TOWN
Kilrusheighter
Kilmacurran Dromore Kilrusheighter Carrowreagh KNOCKNAREA TOWN
Killala Kilglass Kilmacurran Dromore CARROWMORE Lough PARKE’S CASTLE Carrigeencor any time of year. The winter months,
West
Killala Kilglass West Templeboy Dromard CARROWMORE Lough Gill PARKE’S CASTLE Carrigeencor when mountain roads may be
Templeboy
MEGALITHIC
AND LOUGH GILL
B ay
B ay Owenbeg Skreen Dromard MEGALITHIC Gill AND LOUGH GILL impassable, are not as suitable for hill
CEMETERY
CEMETERY
Killarga
Barnagh Owenbeg Skreen Ballysadare Bay Dromahair Killarga
Barnagh Ballysadare Bay Belladrihid Dromahair walking and other outdoor activities.
Island
LEITRIM
Killala Island Beltra Belladrihid
Rathgoonaun
Enniscrone
Castleore
Killala Enniscrone Culleens Rathgoonaun Beltra BALLYSADARE Castleore LEITRIM
Cloonawillin Rusheens Culleens BALLYSADARE Killanummery Opening times: Most shops and
Cloonawillin Rusheens Carrowgun Knockalongy Glen Ballygawley Ballintogher Killanummery attractions open 9 or 10am–5 or 6pm.
Carrowgun Knockalongy 544m Glen Wood Collooney Ballygawley Ballintogher Beagh Shops open Mon–Sat; in large towns
544m
Wood Collooney
S l i e v e G a m p
Corballa Gowlan Gowlan Cappagh Coolaney Beagh
Corballa Cappagh Coolaney Toberscanavan Drumkeerin also 12–6pm on Sun.
Castleconor Lough Toberscanavan Greaghnafarna Drumkeerin
SLIGO
Castleconor Newtown Lough Coola Greaghnafarna
Easkey
Newtown Easkey SLIGO Rathnarrow Coola Main market days: Sligo Town: Fri,
Carha S l i e v e G a m p h h Rathnarrow Unshin
Crockets Carha Unshin
Cloonkee M o u n t a i n s n s Carrowneden Market Yard, (9am–3.30pm); Farmers’
Drummacool
Cloonkee Crockets Town M o u n t a i Carrowneden Carrowmore Ballynacarrow Riverstown Drummacool Corry Mt Market, Sat, Institute of Technology,
Riverstown
Ballynacarrow
Town
Corry Mt
Drumfin
Carrownadargny
Bunnyconnellan
Ardnareee
BALLINA Ardnareee Bunnyconnellan Ballyglass Carrowmore Drumfin Carrownadargny 391m 391m (9am–1pm).
Crossmolina Derreen BALLINA Ballyglass IRISH RAPTOR Ballinphull
Cloonacool
Crossmolina Derreen Gleneask Cloonacool Ballinvally IRISH RAPTOR Ballinphull Shopping: Sligo Town has a variety of
CENTRE
CENTRE
Geevagh
Garrycloonagh MA YO Gleneask Moy Ballinvally Portinch Ballymote Geevagh
LOUGH TALT
Ellaghmore
Garrycloonagh MA YO Ellaghmore LOUGH TALT Moy Portinch Ballymote Castlebaldwin shops on O’Connell Street, Wine Street
Castlebaldwin
Lough
Ballyfarnan
Achonry
Lough Castleloye Achonry Ballyfarnan and Grattan Street, and The Quayside
Conn
Sathya Sai Sanctuary
Rathmelton
Lough
Conn Corroy Mullahawney Mullanys Castleloye Rathmelton Sathya Sai Sanctuary Lough Kilmactranny Lough and Johnston’s Court shopping centres.
Meelagh
Corroy Mullahawney Mullanys Lough Kilmactranny Meelagh
Crosss
Arrow
Annagh
Lough
Crosss Annagh Tobercurry Bunnanaddan CARROWKEEL Arrow Lough
Bunnanaddan
Skean
Keadew
MEGALITHIC
Tobercurry CARROWKEEL Skean Keadew Major festivals: Sligo Town:
Glendaduff Aclare Killavil MEGALITHIC
CEMETERY
Moy
Toorlestraun
Glendaduff Aclare Toorlestraun Killavil CEMETERY Corrigeenroe Cairde Summer Festival, Jul; Yeats
Moy
Moylough
Culfadda
Moylough Culfadda Carrowcrory Ballinafad Corrigeenroe Crossna International Summer School, Jul and
Carrowcrory Ballinafad Crossna
Cloonfeightrin Doon Lough Aug; Jazz Festival, Jul; Sligo Live, Oct;
Cloonfeightrin Gorteen Doon Lough Knockvicar
Key
Gorteen Cornaglia Key Knockvicar International Choral Festival, Nov;
Cornaglia
Mullaghroe LOUGH Around Carrowkeel Megalithic
Cootehall
KEY
Mullaghroe LOUGH Cootehall
Boyle KEY Adcarn Cemetery: Riverstown Vintage
Boyle Adcarn Festival, Jun; James Morrison
Traditional Music, Riverstown, Aug.
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Sligo Town makes a good base for day
trips to both north and south. Poetry
lovers might enjoy a trip around
Yeats country, visiting the places that
inspired the poet. To get a feel of
ancient Ireland, visit the megalithic
tombs at Carrowmore and
Carrowkeel. For full details, see p209.
Left W B Yeats’ grave in the churchyard of
St Columba’s, Drumcliffe, see p203
200-201_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 201 11/13/17 3:22 PM

202 BACK ROADS IRELAND

















Above Lissadell House, once the home of Constance Markeivicz, a leader of the Easter Uprising of 1916
1 Mullaghmore small crossroads. Turn left at the sign
Co Sligo for the Gleniff Horseshoe Drive,
The picturesque fishing village of 3 miles (5 km) from the N15.
Mullaghmore is pleasant to visit
WHERE TO STAY AROUND both for its harbour setting and for
DRUMCLIFFE moody Classiebawn Castle nearby. The Legend of Diarmuid
Both castle and harbour were built and Gráinne
Ardtarmon House inexpensive Gráinne, daughter of the High King
This lovely country house has been from local stone. In the 20th century, Cormac Mac Airt, was betrothed to
in the same family since 1852 and is the castle was the residence of British the warrior and leader Fionn Mac
surrounded by its own wooded earl Lord Louis Mountbatten – killed Cumhaill, but she fell in love and
grounds and a farm. It is a 500-m when his boat was blown up off the eloped with another warrior called
(500-yard) walk to a safe swimming Diarmuid. For years they were
beach from the house, which offers coast in 1979. The headland has pursued around the country by
four B&B rooms as well as self-catering stunning views and a sandy beach. Fionn. While the couple were
accommodation in the old outhouses. The tiny, mystical island of staying in a cave on Ben Bulben
Raghly Road, Ballinphull (Take minor Inishmurray lies offshore 7 km Diarmuid was killed by a boar on
road towards Raghly from beside the (4 miles) northwest of Streedagh the slopes of the mountain and
Yeats Tavern in Drumcliffe and drive for
2 km/1 mile to Carney. Turn left again Point. Weather permitting, boat trips Gráinne died of grief. The cave was
their last hiding place and they are
towards Raghly and drive 4 miles/6 km to the island run from Mullaghmore
to Dunleavy’s shop. Turn left again pier from March to October (087 667 said to be buried together inside it.
towards Raghly for 3 km/2 miles until 4522). Founded by St Molaise in the
the wooden Ardtarmon House sign 6th century, Inishmurray was a
with a shamrock symbol among trees 2 Gleniff Horseshoe
on left); 071 916 3156; secluded monastic retreat and has
www.ardtarmon.com; closed for two remains including cursing stones, Co Sligo
weeks at Christmas and New Year beehive cells and engraved altars. This circular drive through country
The island is also an important bird roads leads to a magical spot behind
and wildlife sanctuary. Ben Bulben, the distinctive mountain
Below A thatched cottage between Bundoran ª Take the R279 out of Mullaghmore that rises abruptly out of the plain.
and Mullaghmore Below centre The Round but follow the Bundoran sign after This beautifully austere valley is one
Tower at Drumcliffe Below right The scenic 1 mile (1.5 km). Go straight across the of the most peaceful places in the
drive around Gleniff Horseshoe N15, then straight over a further three county. The dark mouth of a cave



















202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 202 16/10/17 12:40 pm

DRIVE 20: Legends and Lakes 203


can be seen high up in the mountain- glaciers, Glencar Lough is fed by
side. According to mythology, this waterfalls and streams that descend
was the last refuge of ill-fated lovers from the slopes behind. These are
Diarmuid and Gráinne (see box). even more spectacular after heavy
ª Follow the drive back to the N15 rain. In particular, one waterfall
and turn left onto it, through Mount sometimes gets blown upwards by
Temple and Grange. Turn right at a the wind, giving the dramatic and
signpost for Carney and follow the road unusual appearance that it is actually
for 3 miles (5 km) to Lissadell village. flowing upwards.
Follow signs for Lissadell House. The main Glencar Waterfall
(50-ft/15-m high) crashes noisily
3 Lissadell House into a rocky pool. “There is a waterfall
Ballinfull, Co Sligo ... that my childhood counted dear,’’
This early 19th-century estate was wrote W B Yeats of Glencar (Towards
the childhood home of Constance the Break of Day, 1919).
Markievicz, the first woman to be ª Turn right as you exit the car park
elected to the British House of and left onto the N16. Turn right onto
Commons and one of the leaders the R286 and follow the signs for
of the Easter Rising of 1916 by Irish Parke’s Castle.
republicans. Her friend W B Yeats
was a visitor here. The house, which W B Yeats (1865–1939)
overlooks the ocean, was built in Although born in Dublin, Nobel
Greek Revival style. Now beautifully Laureate poet William Butler Yeats Above Yeats Country: the landscape that
restored, it houses an eclectic spent much of his youth in Co Sligo, inspired W B Yeats’ poetry
collection of furnishings and forming a deep attachment to the
paintings, while the grounds are a county and calling it “The land of
delight to wander round (open Mar– heart’s desire”. He returned many
mid-Oct: daily; www.lissadellhouse.com). times and is buried in Drumcliffe
churchyard. Sligo locations found in
ª Retrace the route to Carney. Head his poetry include Glencar, Innisfree
south to Orchard Grove and continue (on Lough Gill), Dromahair (Leitrim),
straight on. Turn right at the N15 for Lissadell House, Coole Park and Ben
Drumcliffe, then left onto Drum Road. Bulben. A signposted tour of Yeats
Country features many of these.
4 Drumcliffe Details are available from the Sligo
Town Tourist Information office (071
Co Sligo 916 1201; [email protected]).
In St Columba’s churchyard in
Drumcliffe, below the rocky hulk of
Ben Bulben, is the grave of W B Yeats,
one of Ireland’s greatest poets (see
box). He was laid to rest here in 1948, EAT AND DRINK
nearly 10 years after his death, when
his body was moved from the South DRUMCLIFFE
of France. The poet had asked his wife Yeats Tavern inexpensive
to “dig me up and plant me in Sligo”. This is a large lively pub with the
The village also has a round tower, adjoined Davis’s Restaurant offering a
damaged by lightning in 1396, and a variety of seafood as well as poultry
High Cross, remnants of a monastic and game. It is popular at weekends
for roast lunches and weather
settlement founded in AD 574. permitting, you can also dine alfresco.
ª Continue south on the N15, then, Drumcliffe (5 minutes’ walk from the
in Rathcormac, take the second left churchyard, along the N15); 071 916
and immediately left again. Turn left 3117; www.yeatstavernrestaurant.com
at the N16, then left again for Glencar AROUND DRUMCLIFFE
Lough. There is a car park on the right, Lang’s Bar and Restaurant
and a path leads to the waterfall. inexpensive
As well as offering beautiful views of
5 Glencar Lough and Ben Bulben, this traditional bar and
Waterfall restaurant incorporates a grocery
shop. It is located a mere 10-minute
Glencar, Co Leitrim walk from Streedagh Beach.
Surrounded by great, sweeping Above Glencar Waterfall, one of several waterfalls Grange; 071 916 3105; www.langs.ie;
mountains carved out by ancient tumbling into Glencar Lough restaurant closed Tue
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 203 11/09/17 11:38 am

204 BACK ROADS IRELAND


6 Parke’s Castle and Boat trips around Lough Gill (Easter–
Lough Gill Oct) leave from a jetty outside the
Co Leitrim castle walls.
Set on the shore of Lough Gill in The lake itself is the location of
spectacular countryside, Parke’s Yeats’ beloved Isle of Innisfree –
Castle (open Apr–Sep) is a fortified ”There midnight’s all a glimmer, and
manor house with wide mullioned noon a purple glow”. It is possible to
windows built in 1609 by Captain visit the tiny island. There is not much
Robert Parke. The house was built to see, though visitors may, like the
over the site of the original 15th- poet, “hear lake water lapping with
century castle, home to a prominent low sounds by the shore”.
local clan, the O’Rourkes (Uí Ruairc). The bell of Sligo Abbey is said to
The stones of O’Rourke’s tower were be at the bottom of Lough Gill.
used to build the three-storey manor According to legend, it was sunk
on the eastern side. It has been when the abbey was demolished in
carefully restored using Irish oak and 1642. It is said that those pure of
traditional crafts manship, and is a heart can still hear it tolling.
fine example of the plantation style ª Continue on the R286 to Sligo.
of architecture favoured by the On the way there is a viewing point
Above Parke’s Castle, a splendid fortified 17th-century settlers. overlooking Lough Colgagh.
manor house overlooking Lough Gill
7 Sligo Town
Co Sligo
Although technically a city, Sligo is locally referred to as Sligo
Town. A gateway to the northwest, it is an attractive blend of
quaint charm and modern verve. Striking new buildings like the
Glasshouse sit side by side with characterful older ones such as
the Yeats Memorial Building, both overlooking the Garavogue
River, a popular focal point whose banks are lined with shops
and restaurants. Sligo’s main street is O’Connell Street.
VISITING SLIGO TOWN
Parking A two-hour walking tour City Hall 2, an Italian Renaissance-
Park in Quay Street car park on Lower From the Lower Quay Street car style building dating from 1865.
Quay Street or in the Quayside park cross to the riverside to see On the corner is the Post Office 3
Shopping Centre underground
car park, which is just opposite. the Famine Memorial 1, which built in 1901 and the traditional
commemorates the thousands who shop front of Henry Lyons and Co,
Tourist Information
Fáilte Ireland Northwest, Old Bank died in the Great Famine of 1845. a Sligo landmark since 1878.
Building, O’Connell St; 071 916 1201; Many others emigrated from Sligo’s Across Wine Street, beside Douglas
www.sligotourism.ie; open Mon–Sat quays. Turn left into Quay Street for Hyde Bridge, is the Yeats Memorial
9am–5pm Building 4, erected in 1895 and
now home to the Yeats Society
WHERE TO STAY IN and venue for the annual Yeats
SLIGO TOWN
International Summer School.
The Clayton Hotel moderate Cross five-arched Hyde Bridge into
Large hotel in a historic building with Stephen Street. In front of the Neo-
an Elizabethan façade. Houses a leisure Classical building commissioned for
centre and spa, as well as a kids’ club, Ulster Bank in 1863 is a statue of W B
making it particularly popular with Yeats 5. Next door are the County
families. There are also some
apartments to rent. Library and County Museum 6 (both
Clarion Road; 071 911 9000; closed Sun and Mon; museum closed
www.claytonhotelsligo.com lunchtime). The museum’s Yeats
The Glasshouse moderate section contains the poet’s Nobel
This stunning glass building Prize medal and letters.
overlooking the Garavogue River is in Continue along Stephen Street
an ideal location for exploring the city. and into the Mall for the Model
Quirky interior in bright colours
designed to reflect Sligo’s vibrancy. Arts Centre and Niland Gallery 7
Swan Point, Hyde Bridge; 071 919 Above Curiosities in one of the cosy pubs on Sligo (071 914 1405; www.themodel.ie).
4300; www.theglasshouse.ie Town’s Rockwood Parade Retrace the route along Stephen
Where to Stay: inexpensive under €100; moderate €100–€200; expensive over €200


202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 204 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 20: Legends and Lakes 205



Famine
Memorial C O N N A U G H T O N R O A D
County Library
LOWER QUAY STREET
and County
City Hall Statue of STEPHEN ST BRIDGE STREET T H E M A L L
Museum
Model Arts Centre
W B Yeats
I N N E R R E L I E F R O U T E ADELAIDE STREET Yeats Memorial Building ROCKW OOD PARADE New Sligo Abbey R I V E R S I D E
and Niland Gallery
Post Office
QUAY ST
Douglas Hyde
WINE STREE T
Bridge
Bridge
River Garavogue
KENNEDY PARADE
WATER LN
GRATTAN ST CASTLE ST
ABBEY STREET
JOHN STREET
O'CONNELL ST
St John’s
Court
CHARLES ST
Cathedral of the Cathedral House TELLING ST CHAPEL STREET
Immaculate
Conception
Hawk’s Well
Theatre
Above Altar by the holy well at Tobernalt on
500
0 metres
the north shore of Lough Gill
0 yards 500
TEMPLE STREET
Street and turn left onto Bridge Cathedral of the Immaculate EAT AND DRINK
Street to cross New Bridge 8 – built Conception w (open daily), built in
in 1682 – over the river. Turn left 1858–95 and noted for its stained glass. AROUND PARKE’S CASTLE AND
down Kennedy Parade and right into Turn left onto Temple Street for the LOUGH GILL
Abbey Street for Sligo Abbey 9 (open Hawk’s Well Theatre e. Take a left Riverbank Restaurant moderate
Apr–Oct: daily; Nov: Fri–Sun down “The Lungy” and Rustic-style restaurant in a picturesque
only) built in 1252, Charles Street back to location on the banks of the River
destroyed by fire in 1414 John Street and turn Bonet in pretty Dromahair, where the
and rebuilt with Gothic right. Take the first left chef serves creative cuisine using fresh
local ingredients.
and Renaissance carvings down O’Connell Street Dromahair (from Parke’s Castle return
and cloisters. It has the and then first right towards Manorhamilton but turn right
only 15th-century high down Tobergal Lane onto the R288, and follow the road
altar to survive in an Irish to riverside Rockwood south to Dromahair); 071 91 64934;
monastic church. Parade r, a bustling hub www.riverbankrestaurant.ie; open
Wed–Sun eves and Sun lunch
Pass the sandstone Court of cafés, restaurants and
House 0 at the end of shops. Turn left onto the SLIGO TOWN
Abbey Street, cross over to Yeats statue, parade towards Hyde Fureys Sheela Na Gig inexpensive
Castle Street and continue Sligo Town Bridge, left again, then This is an old-style pub with regular
up Grattan Street and John right onto Quay Street traditional music sessions, right
in the heart of Sligo Town.
Street to St John’s Cathedral q to return to the car park. Bridge St; no phone
(closed to visitors), where the parents ª Take the N15 north, signposted
of W B Yeats were married in 1863. Lifford, and first left onto the R291 for Bistro Bianconi moderate
Informal Italian restaurant that is
Further along John Street is the Rosses Point, 8 km (5 miles) from Sligo. popular with locals. Large menu,
with pizza, pasta, steak and seafood.
Tobergall Lane; 071 914 1744;
www.bistrobianconi.ie
Coach Lane moderate
Traditional food and a cosy
atmosphere in this restaurant above
Donaghy’s bar. Buffalo wings, seafood,
poultry and organic produce feature
on the menu. There is a terrace for
outdoor eating, weather permitting.
1–2 Lord Edward Street; 071 916 2417;
www.coachlane.ie
Fiddlers Creek moderate
Lively pub with food served in the
bar or in the more formal restaurant.
Options include spicy chicken wings,
grilled steak and tasty seafood bakes.
Rockwood Parade; 071 914 1866;
Above Five-arched Douglas Hyde Bridge over the River Garavogue in Sligo Town www.fiddlerscreek.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate €25–€50; expensive over €50
202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 205 13/10/17 1:18 pm

206 BACK ROADS IRELAND


9 Strandhill
Co Sligo
This small seaside resort, overlooked
by the brooding Knocknarea
Mountain, is a popular surfing
destination. The beach is unsafe
for swimming (it is prohibited), but
the strands are great for leisurely
walks in both directions – at low
tide it is possible to walk over
Dorrin’s Strand to Coney Island.
The village has a surf club, two surf
schools and a challenging 18-hole
links golf course. It is also home to
the Voya spa, which specializes in
Ireland’s only indigenous therapy –
seaweed baths (open daily; book in
advance in summer 071 916 8686;
www.voyaseaweedbaths.com).
ª Leaving Strandhill, keep to the
right at the Y-junction at the pink
church. There is a sign for Ballysadare
Above Fishing at Rosses Point Above top and Carrowmore. Continue along the
right An open fire in the Strand Bar, Strandhill 8 Rosses Point R292 until a left turn signposted for
Above right Native seaweed, used as a spa Co Sligo Knocknarea. Park in the car park.
treatment at the seaweed baths at Strandhill After the bustle of Sligo, drive out to
and Enniscrone the quiet peninsula of Rosses Point, 0 Knocknarea
ideal for a relaxing beach walk. The Co Sligo
village has pubs and restaurants and This enormous cairn atop
at the end of the peninsula there are Knocknarea is 55 m (180 ft) in
beaches, sand dunes, an 18-hole diameter and 10 m (33 ft) high.
links golf course and a yacht club. According to folklore, it was built
In the harbour stands the “Metal as a burial place for the legendary
Man”, a giant statue of a sailor, Queen Maeve (Medbh in Irish), an
pointing ships safely into the channel Iron Age queen. She is supposed
for Sligo. Oyster Island and Coney to have been buried standing up, in
Island are both visible from here. full battle uniform. Archaeologists
ª Retrace the route back into Sligo. believe the cairn actually dates from
Take the R292 at the bus and train around 3000 BC, much earlier than
station, for Strandhill, about 8 km the legend suggests. Maeve’s cairn
(5 miles) from Sligo. In Strandhill, park is a 45-minute walk from the car
in the seafront car park. park. On a clear day there are fine







WHERE TO STAY AROUND
BALLYSADARE
Castle Dargan expensive
Set in 170 acres of mature landscape,
this hotel also has an 18-hole golf
course which was designed by golfer
Darren Clarke and a spa with a
hydrotherapy pool and oxygen bar.
From the N4, take the R284 exit and
follow signs to Ballygawley. Castle
Dargan is on Dromahair Road; 071 911
8080; www.castledargan.com Above Surfers on the beach at Strandhill, one of Ireland’s best beaches for surfing
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 206 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 20: Legends and Lakes 207


views over Sligo and the surrounding
five counties.
ª Return to the R292 and turn
left. Continue straight on at the
roundabout to Carrowmore. Park
in the car park.
q Carrowmore Megalithic
Cemetery
Co Sligo
The largest megalithic burial
ground in Ireland, Carrowmore is
also one of the most significant
sites of its kind in Europe. There
are in excess of 60 tombs here – a Above The River Ballysadare and Lough
fascinating mixture of small passage- ª Cross the bridge and turn right Easkey are popular with anglers
tombs and dolmens (a type of onto the N59 for Ballina. Pass a turn
single-chamber tomb enclosed by for Glen Wood to the left, good for
boulders). Some archaeological walks and picnics. Continue on the
research suggests that Carrowmore’s N59 until a signpost for Easkey. Turn
oldest tombs are more than 5,000 right here, onto the R297.
years old. The visitor centre (Apr–Oct
daily; last admission 5pm) offers e Easkey
informative guided tours of the Co Sligo
cemetery in season. The small village of Easkey and
ª Turn right out of the car park and the slightly larger seaside resort
right again. Return to the R292 and of Enniscrone (also Innishcrone),
turn left. Turn right onto the N59 and further around the coast, are set
continue straight on into Ballysadare. on a beautiful rocky shoreline. The
Park in the centre of the village. main attraction here is the surfing SURFING AT EASKEY
(see right) and the Irish Surfing
Association is based here. Enniscrone Easkey Surf Information Centre is
has a sweeping 3-km (2-mile) Blue based on Main Street and posts daily
Flag beach. Other attractions there surf reports on its noticeboard (096
include Kilcullen’s Seaweed Baths 49020; [email protected]).
(www.kilcullenseaweedbaths.net), Lessons are also available from the
Seventh Wave Surf School in Easkey
established in 1912, and proud and Enniscrone (087 971 6389;
of its Edwardian ambience, and www.surfsligo.com).
Enniscrone Golf Course.
ª From Easkey or Enniscrone follow
the R297 south towards Newtown. EAT AND DRINK AT
After Newtown turn onto the N59 STRANDHILL
and continue for Ballina.
The Venue inexpensive–moderate
A traditional-style pub and a large,
Queen Maeve of Connaught friendly restaurant, with everything
Maeve (or Medbh), the Celtic from shrimp to steaks, make this a
popular spot in Strandhill.
warrior Queen of Connaught, was Top Road; 071 916 8167;
Above View from Knocknarea, the last resting a character in the mythological www.venuestrandhill.ie
tale The Táin. Although she was
place of the legendary Queen Maeve powerful, she was jealous of The Strand Bar & Restaurant
her husband Ailill’s white bull. moderate
w Ballysadare Searching for an equal, she found A lively bar, popular with surfers,
Co Sligo the Brown Bull of Cooley in Ulster. serves bar meals all day and has live
music at weekends. Upstairs, a separate
This picturesque village, where the But its owners refused to lend it to restaurant, the Jade Garden serves
River Ballysadare flows into the sea is her, so she and her army invaded Chinese and Thai food in elegant
Ulster and stole it. Legend says that
a prime location for salmon fishing. when she got the bull home, it surroundings. There is also a seafood
W B Yeats spent a lot of time in this fought and killed her husband’s restaurant, Trà Ban, on the premises.
area as a child and it is believed to white bull and then died on its Strand Bar: 071 916 8140;
www.thestrandbar.ie
have inspired his poem Down by the way home to Ulster. Jade Garden: 071 916 8935
Sally Gardens. Trà Ban: 071 912 8402
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50
202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 207 11/09/17 11:38 am

208 BACK ROADS IRELAND


r Ballina ª Return to the R294 and continue,
Co Mayo signposted Boyle. Carry on into
The largest town in the county, Tobercurry. From here, turn left back
Ballina is a charming market town, onto R294. Just as the R296 is reached
set on the River Moy. It is famous for there is a left turn for Portinch.
its hospitality with plenty of shops
and cafés, and good fishing along y Irish Raptor Centre
the river. Among Ballina’s attractions Portinch, Ballymote
are the ruins of Moyne Abbey and Watch eagles, hawks and falcons
Rosserk Friary dating back to the swooping overhead at the centre
15th century, and the impressive (071 91 89310; www.eaglesflying.com;
St Muredach’s Cathedral (completed open Apr–Oct: daily; closed lunchtime),
in 1831). Every July the town hosts a which has two daily flying
popular street festival with many demonstrations and interactive
events and live music. shows about the lives and habits of
ª Take the R294 east towards the various birds of prey. Visitors are
Above View from Carrowkeel Megalithic Gleneask and turn right into the car allowed to touch some of the birds.
Tombs over Lough Arrow park at Lough Talt. There is also a petting zoo with
goats, sheep, rabbits, guinea-pigs
WHERE TO STAY t Lough Talt and donkeys.
Co Sligo ª Return to the R294 and continue
BALLINA This magical place is a favourite spot on it, following the signs to Boyle. At
The Ice House Hotel moderate with trout fishermen. There is an easy Tobercurry, turn left onto the N17
This stunning boutique hotel walk around the shore (6 km/4 miles) for Sligo, then, after 14 km (9 miles),
overlooks the River Moy and blends and it is also the start for the much turn right following the signs for
country style and contemporary chic. longer Sligo Way walk. Lough Talt has “Eagles Flying”.
The Quay; 096 23 500;
www.icehousehotel.ie two crannógs – small man-made
islands inhabited in the Iron Age. u Carrowkeel Megalithic
AROUND CARROWKEEL Continue along the road through Cemetery
MEGALITHIC CEMETERY the rolling countryside of the Ox Co Sligo
Gyreum Ecolodge inexpensive Mountains to reach Lough Easkey. Overlooking Lough Arrow in the
Set in great surroundings near Lough With its wide open skies and a spare scenic Bricklieve Mountains, the
Arrow and the Bricklieve Mountains,
Gyreum has small rooms, large dorms beauty, it is popular with anglers remote cemetery at Carrowkeel
and “tent” capsules in the central hall. and walkers. A few kilometres (miles) (open daily) dates back to around
Corlisheen, Riverstown (from beyond Lough Easkey, at Mass Hill, is 3800 BC. The site comprises 14
Carrowkeel take N4 to Castlebaldwin the Shaking Rock, a massive boulder hill-top passage tombs with an
and turn right, following signs over which can be rocked by hand, but additional six to the west. Excavated
Bow & Arrow crossroads and through
Killadoon crossroads. Take first turn amazingly, has never fallen. in 1911, the tombs, which differ in
after Killadoon on left (on steep hill)
and continue for 1 km (half a mile). Below The 19th-century St Muredach’s cathedral, on the banks of the River Moy in the attractive
Entrance to Gyreum is on the right); market town of Ballina, seen from one of the town’s bridges
087 328 0789 ; www.gyreum.com
Cromleach Lodge
moderate–expensive
This smart, family-run country house
hotel has great views over Lough
Arrow and the Bricklieve Mountains.
Castlebaldwin, Lough Arrow (6 km/
4 miles off the N4); 071 916 5155;
www.cromleach.com
Coopershill House expensive
This beautiful Georgian mansion has
been the home of the O’Hara family
for seven generations and offers
visitors a warm welcome, with open
fires, candlelit dinners, acres of lovely
grounds and four-poster beds.
Clearly signed 2 km (1 mile)
from Riverstown (from Carrowkeel
take N4 to Drumfin and take right turn
to Riverstown); 071 916 5108;
www.coopershill.com;
closed 1 Nov–31 March
Where to Stay: inexpensive under €100; moderate €100–€200; expensive over €200


202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 208 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 20: Legends and Lakes 209



















Above Ponies enjoy the good life at the Sathya Sai Sanctuary Trust, a charity founded to take care of
elderly and abandoned ponies and donkeys
style and size, are particularly good 6196; open Apr–Oct: weekends, Wed–Fri
examples of Irish passage tombs. phone ahead for appointment). From
One of them is similar to Newgrange Carrowkeel, follow the signs for the
(see p160), except that in Carrowkeel equine sanctuary a little further
the inner chamber is lit by the sun down the same road.
on the summer solstice (21 June), ª Leaving the sanctuary, head south
rather than on the winter solstice as on the N4. At the first exit for Boyle,
happens at Newgrange. continue on the N4 for approximately
Children might enjoy a visit to 8 km (5 miles). The entrance to Lough
the Sathya Sai Sanctuary, a rest Key Forest Park is on the left. Go down
home for neglected ponies and the driveway to enter the car park.
donkeys (www.donkeys.ie; 071 966
i Lough Key
Boyle, Co Roscommon
Lough Key Forest Park (park: open daily;
visitor centre and attractions: check website;
www.loughkey.ie) is one of Ireland’s EAT AND DRINK AROUND
most extensive parks. It comprises CARROWKEEL MEGALITHIC
some 350 hectares (530 acres) of CEMETERY
stunning forest and mixed woodland,
with walking trails including a tree Coopershill House
moderate–expensive
canopy walk suspended 9 m (30 ft) Have a drink by the fire before
above the ground. Among the park’s enjoying a superb gourmet meal
lakes and islands, Trinity Island houses served in the elegant, authentic
the remains of an ancient abbey. Georgian dining room of this
Boats are available for hire, and country-house hotel.
Clearly signed 2 km (1 mile) from
there are also picnic areas, a lakeside Riverstown; 071 916 5108;
Above The entrance to one of the passage tombs visitor’s centre and a well-equipped www.coopershill.com;
at Carrowkeel children’s playground. closed 1 Nov–31 March
DAY TRIP OPTIONS County Museum. Drive to Drumcliffe Ancient Ireland
Sligo Town is an ideal base for 4, where the poet is buried. Drive south to Carrowmore
exploring Yeats Country and the Continue to dramatic Glencar Lough Megalithic Cemetery q for a guided
ancient cemeteries. and Waterfall 5, and return to the tour of the passage tombs. Continue
town via Lough Gill 6, where boat south to Carrowkeel Megalithic
Yeats Country trips to Yeats’ beloved Isle of Innisfree Cemetery u.
Poetry lovers and romantics could
take a trip around the places that are available from Parke’s Castle jetty. Follow the drive’s instructions to
inspired W B Yeats. In Sligo Town 7, Take the N15 to Drumcliffe, then follow Carrowmore. From there, take the R292
pay homage to the poet’s statue, the drive’s instructions to Glencar to the N3, then N4, and turn off at
and see his Nobel Prize medal in the Lough and Lough Gill. Castlebaldwin for Carrowkeel.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €25; moderate €25–€50; expensive over €50


202-209_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 209 11/09/17 11:38 am

BR_IR_210-211_Opener21.indd 210 23/10/09 14:31:51
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 21st July 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

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Dramatic
Donegal
Newmills to
Rossnowlagh
Highlights
• Rugged Glenveagh National Park
Spot wild deer and golden eagles
and explore mountains, lakes, glens
and Glenveagh Castle
• Scenic Horn Head
Watch puffins, guillemots and storm
petrels, and hike over the headland
• The rocky Rosses
Meander through this pretty corner
of Donegal, a landscape dotted with
lakes and fringed with secluded bays
• Old-world Glencolmcille
Time travel to 18th-century rural
Donegal in the Folk Village Museum
• Breathtaking Slieve League
Brave the sheer drops of Slieve
League, some of the highest sea cliffs
in Europe
The remains of Donegal’s Franciscan Abbey
on the mouth of the River Eske
BR_IR_210-211_Opener21.indd 211 23/10/09 14:31:54

212 BACK ROADS OF IRELAND
Tory IslandTory Island
(Toraigh)(Toraigh)
Dramatic Donegal West TownWest Town
(Baile Thiar)(Baile Thiar)
A rugged hinterland and dramatic headlands give Donegal a fierce beauty. To r y S o u n d n d
To r y S o u
Cliffs battered by fierce Atlantic storms shelter unspoiled coves and beaches;
remote inland valleys harbour wild deer and pairs of golden eagles. But the InishdooeyInishdooey HORN HEADHORN HEAD SheephavenSheephaven
Bay Bay
wild is tempered by the human: Glenveagh Castle has one of Ireland’s finest (Oileán Dúiche)(Oileán Dúiche) TramoreTramore DUNFANAGHYDUNFANAGHY
InishbofinInishbofin
gardens and The Rosses is the birthplace of several of Ireland’s leading BLOODYBLOODY (Inis Bó Finne)(Inis Bó Finne) BeachBeach CarrigartCarrigart
(Carraig Airt)(Carraig Airt)
Magheraroarty
musicians. Everywhere, there’s a warm Irish welcome, especially in the FORELANDFORELAND Magheraroarty CorcregganCorcreggan PortnablaghPortnablagh
(Machaire(Machaire
Rabhartaigh)Rabhartaigh)
good seafood restaurants and pubs. This coastal drive provides a BrinlackBrinlack ARDS FOREST PARKARDS FOREST PARK
rich and varied experience, from braving the heights of Slieve (Bun na Leaca)(Bun na Leaca) FalcarraghFalcarragh DOE CASTLEDOE CASTLE
(An Fál Carrach)(An Fál Carrach)
League to enjoying simple seaside pleasures in Rossnowlagh Gola IslandGola Island CorveenCorveen GortahorkGortahork CreesloughCreeslough GlenGlen
(An Chorrmhín)(An Chorrmhín)
(Gabhla)(Gabhla)
(Gort an Choirce)(Gort an Choirce)
on Donegal Bay. InishfreeInishfree DerrybegDerrybeg Muckish MtMuckish Mt Glen LoughGlen Lough
(Na Doirí Beaga)(Na Doirí Beaga)
670m670m
BayBay GlackGlack DrumnarawDrumnaraw
(Droim na Rátha)(Droim na Rátha)
BUNBEG (An Bun Beag)BUNBEG (An Bun Beag) GweedoreGweedore GLENVEAGHGLENVEAGH MilfordMilford
Cruit Island (An Chruit)Cruit Island (An Chruit) DonegalDonegal (Gaoth Dobhair)(Gaoth Dobhair) NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK TermonTermon
AND CASTLEAND CASTLE
RossesRosses AnnagryAnnagry LoughLough ErrigalErrigal (An Tearmann)(An Tearmann) LoughLough
Aran IslandAran Island BayBay (Anagaire)(Anagaire) NacungNacung 749m749m LoughLough Fern Fern
683m Mountains
(Árainn Mhór)(Árainn Mhór) KincasslaghKincasslagh DUNLEWEYDUNLEWEY BeaghBeagh
(Cionn Caslach)(Cionn Caslach) CrollyCrolly KilmacrenanKilmacrenan
LeabgarrowLeabgarrow (Croithlí)(Croithlí) (Dún Lúiche)(Dún Lúiche) RameltonRamelton
(An Leadhb Gharbh)(An Leadhb Gharbh) THE ROSSESTHE ROSSES 683m Mountains
LoughanureLoughanure
BurtonportBurtonport (NA ROSA)(NA ROSA) Slieve SnaghtSlieve Snaght THE GLEBE HOUSETHE GLEBE HOUSE DromoreDromore
(Ailt an Chorráin)(Ailt an Chorráin) (Loch an Iúir)(Loch an Iúir) AND GALLERYAND GALLERY ChurchillChurchill
Derryveagh
LoughLough
Glendowan
Inishfree UpperInishfree Upper GartanGartan EllistrinEllistrin
Mountains
(Inis Fraoigh)(Inis Fraoigh) DungloeDungloe Derryveagh Glendowan CorderryCorderry
(An Clochán(An Clochán
MagheryMaghery Liath)Liath) Mountains GlendowanGlendowan
(Gleann(Gleann
(An Machaire)(An Machaire) Domhain)Domhain) LetterkennyLetterkenny
Crohy HeadCrohy Head BreenaghBreenagh
DoocharryDoocharry AltadushAltadush Swilly Swilly
MeenacrossMeenacross (An Dúchoraidh)(An Dúchoraidh) NEWMILLSNEWMILLS
(Mín na Croise)(Mín na Croise)
Dooey PointDooey Point KingarrowKingarrow
GweebarraGweebarra FintownFintown (An Cionn Garbh)(An Cionn Garbh)
BayBay LettermacawardLettermacaward (Baile na Finne)(Baile na Finne) BellanamoreBellanamore CarkCark
(Leitir Mhic an Bhaird)(Leitir Mhic an Bhaird) (Béal an Átha Móir)(Béal an Átha Móir)
DawrosDawros LoughLough
HeadHead NaranNaran FinnFinn Finn Finn
MaasMaas DONEGALDONEGAL CloghanCloghan
KilclooneyKilclooney
LoughrosLoughros (An Clochán)(An Clochán)
More BayMore Bay Tully BegTully Beg GlentiesGlenties
(Na Gleannta)(Na Gleannta) WelchtownWelchtown
CloghboyCloghboy CommeenCommeen
Above The dramatic sea cliffs of Slieve League, see p220 TangaveaneTangaveane (An Coimín)(An Coimín)
SlievetooeySlievetooey KilreanKilrean (An tSeanga Mheáin)(An tSeanga Mheáin)
511m511m ARDARAARDARA (Cill Ráin)(Cill Ráin) Lavagh MoreLavagh More
B l ue S ta ck M o un
GLENCOLMCILLEGLENCOLMCILLE GlengeshGlengesh 676m676m
Glen HeadGlen Head (Gleann Cholm Cille)(Gleann Cholm Cille) Pass Pass CrocknagappleCrocknagapple B l ue S ta ck M o un t ai ns t ai ns
Blue StackBlue Stack
Rossan Point Rossan Point 678m678m
Common MountainCommon Mountain
Malin MoreMalin More 501m501m
(Málainn Mhóir)(Málainn Mhóir) MeenanearyMeenaneary LettermoreLettermore ArdnamonaArdnamona BarnesmoreBarnesmore
ACTIVITIES (Mín an Aoire)(Mín an Aoire) LoughLough Pass Pass
Malin BegMalin Beg CroaghCroagh FriaryFriary Eske Eske
(Málainn Bhig)(Málainn Bhig) CarrickCarrick ClagganClaggan LetterbarraLetterbarra
Soak in an outdoor hot tub with (An Charraig)(An Charraig) FrossesFrosses BarnesmoreBarnesmore
views of Sheephaven Bay TeelinTeelin KilcarKilcar InverInver
(Teileann)(Teileann) (Cill Charthaigh)(Cill Charthaigh)
Explore the hiking trails and KILLYBEGSKILLYBEGS MountcharlesMountcharles DONEGAL TOWNDONEGAL TOWN
beaches of Ards Forest Park SLIEVE LEAGUESLIEVE LEAGUE LargyLargy DunkineelyDunkineely CopanyCopany
(Sliabh Liag)(Sliabh Liag) MuckrosMuckros LoughLough
Play a round of golf on the superbly HeadHead McSwyne’sMcSwyne’s InverInver DonegalDonegal LaghyLaghy DergDerg
Bay Bay
sited Cruit Island Golf Club Bay Bay HarbourHarbour
D D St John’sSt John’s Bridge TownBridge Town
Shop for Donegal tweed in the o o PointPoint
weaving town of Ardara BallintraBallintra
ROSSNOWLAGHROSSNOWLAGH
Tuck into locally caught seafood CoolmoreCoolmore
n e g a l B a
n e g a l B a y y
while looking out over Donegal Bay
KEY CavangardenCavangarden
Build sandcastles or learn to surf in
family-friendly Rossnowlagh Drive route BallyshannonBallyshannon
212-213_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 212 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 21: Dramatic Donegal 213
Tory IslandTory Island
(Toraigh)(Toraigh) 0 kilometres 8
West TownWest Town PLAN YOUR DRIVE
(Baile Thiar)(Baile Thiar)
0 miles 8
To r y S o u n d n d Start/finish: Newmills to
To r y S o u
Rossnowlagh.
InishdooeyInishdooey HORN HEADHORN HEAD SheephavenSheephaven Number of days: 4–5 days.
Bay Bay
(Oileán Dúiche)(Oileán Dúiche)
InishbofinInishbofin TramoreTramore DUNFANAGHYDUNFANAGHY Distance: 253 km (157 miles).
(Inis Bó Finne)(Inis Bó Finne) BeachBeach CarrigartCarrigart
BLOODYBLOODY Magheraroarty CorcregganCorcreggan (Carraig Airt)(Carraig Airt)
Magheraroarty
FORELANDFORELAND (Machaire(Machaire PortnablaghPortnablagh Road conditions: This drive includes
Rabhartaigh)Rabhartaigh) ARDS FOREST PARKARDS FOREST PARK narrow regional and unclassified roads,
BrinlackBrinlack
(Bun na Leaca)(Bun na Leaca) FalcarraghFalcarragh which are sometimes single track –
(An Fál Carrach)(An Fál Carrach) DOE CASTLEDOE CASTLE pull over or reverse into a wide spot to
CorveenCorveen CreesloughCreeslough
Gola IslandGola Island (An Chorrmhín)(An Chorrmhín) GortahorkGortahork allow oncoming vehicles to pass.
(Gabhla)(Gabhla) DerrybegDerrybeg (Gort an Choirce)(Gort an Choirce) Muckish MtMuckish Mt GlenGlen
(Na Doirí Beaga)(Na Doirí Beaga) Glen LoughGlen Lough Watch out for animals on the road.
InishfreeInishfree 670m670m
BayBay GlackGlack DrumnarawDrumnaraw
(Droim na Rátha)(Droim na Rátha)
BUNBEG (An Bun Beag)BUNBEG (An Bun Beag) GweedoreGweedore GLENVEAGHGLENVEAGH MilfordMilford When to go: Winter can be very wet,
and some hotels and restaurants
Cruit Island (An Chruit)Cruit Island (An Chruit) DonegalDonegal (Gaoth Dobhair)(Gaoth Dobhair) NATIONAL PARKNATIONAL PARK TermonTermon close. Jun–Aug is best, but busiest.
AND CASTLEAND CASTLE
RossesRosses AnnagryAnnagry LoughLough ErrigalErrigal (An Tearmann)(An Tearmann) LoughLough Plan carefully around festivals, when
Aran IslandAran Island BayBay (Anagaire)(Anagaire) NacungNacung 749m749m LoughLough Fern Fern
(Árainn Mhór)(Árainn Mhór) KincasslaghKincasslagh DUNLEWEYDUNLEWEY BeaghBeagh accommodation can get booked up.
683m Mountains
(Cionn Caslach)(Cionn Caslach) CrollyCrolly KilmacrenanKilmacrenan
LeabgarrowLeabgarrow (Croithlí)(Croithlí) (Dún Lúiche)(Dún Lúiche) RameltonRamelton
(An Leadhb Gharbh)(An Leadhb Gharbh) THE ROSSESTHE ROSSES 683m Mountains Opening times: Shops are usually
LoughanureLoughanure
BurtonportBurtonport (NA ROSA)(NA ROSA) Slieve SnaghtSlieve Snaght THE GLEBE HOUSETHE GLEBE HOUSE DromoreDromore open Mon–Sat from 9 or 10am to 5 or
(Ailt an Chorráin)(Ailt an Chorráin) (Loch an Iúir)(Loch an Iúir) AND GALLERYAND GALLERY ChurchillChurchill 6pm. Attractions are generally open
Derryveagh
LoughLough
Glendowan
Inishfree UpperInishfree Upper GartanGartan EllistrinEllistrin similar hours, but also Sunday.
Mountains
(Inis Fraoigh)(Inis Fraoigh) DungloeDungloe Derryveagh Glendowan CorderryCorderry
(An Clochán(An Clochán
MagheryMaghery Liath)Liath) Mountains GlendowanGlendowan Main market days: Donegal Town:
(Gleann(Gleann
(An Machaire)(An Machaire) Domhain)Domhain) LetterkennyLetterkenny
Crohy HeadCrohy Head BreenaghBreenagh Farmers’ Market, first Sat of month.
DoocharryDoocharry AltadushAltadush Swilly Swilly
MeenacrossMeenacross (An Dúchoraidh)(An Dúchoraidh) NEWMILLSNEWMILLS Shopping: Ardara is the centre for
(Mín na Croise)(Mín na Croise) handwoven Donegal Tweed – from
Dooey PointDooey Point KingarrowKingarrow
GweebarraGweebarra FintownFintown (An Cionn Garbh)(An Cionn Garbh) caps and coats to lengths of cloth.
BayBay LettermacawardLettermacaward (Baile na Finne)(Baile na Finne) BellanamoreBellanamore CarkCark
(Leitir Mhic an Bhaird)(Leitir Mhic an Bhaird) (Béal an Átha Móir)(Béal an Átha Móir) Major festivals: Donegal Town:
DawrosDawros LoughLough
HeadHead NaranNaran FinnFinn Finn Finn Maritime Festival, Aug; Dungloe: Mary
MaasMaas DONEGALDONEGAL CloghanCloghan from Dungloe Festival, end Jul/early
KilclooneyKilclooney
LoughrosLoughros (An Clochán)(An Clochán) Aug; Ardara: Cup of Tae Traditional
More BayMore Bay Tully BegTully Beg GlentiesGlenties
(Na Gleannta)(Na Gleannta) WelchtownWelchtown Festival, late Apr/early May.
CloghboyCloghboy CommeenCommeen
TangaveaneTangaveane (An Coimín)(An Coimín)
SlievetooeySlievetooey KilreanKilrean (An tSeanga Mheáin)(An tSeanga Mheáin) DAY TRIP OPTIONS
511m511m ARDARAARDARA (Cill Ráin)(Cill Ráin) Lavagh MoreLavagh More
B l ue S ta ck M o un
GLENCOLMCILLEGLENCOLMCILLE GlengeshGlengesh 676m676m
Glen HeadGlen Head (Gleann Cholm Cille)(Gleann Cholm Cille) Pass Pass CrocknagappleCrocknagapple B l ue S ta ck M o un t ai ns t ai ns Spend a day in Glenveagh National
Blue StackBlue Stack
Rossan Point Rossan Point 678m678m Park, exploring the castle, lake and hills;
Common MountainCommon Mountain
Malin MoreMalin More 501m501m head for the lakes and pretty beaches
(Málainn Mhóir)(Málainn Mhóir) MeenanearyMeenaneary LettermoreLettermore ArdnamonaArdnamona BarnesmoreBarnesmore of The Rosses, or the varied attractions
(Mín an Aoire)(Mín an Aoire) Pass Pass
Malin BegMalin Beg CroaghCroagh FriaryFriary LoughLough Below Light fades over the Franciscan of Donegal Bay, a short hop from
Eske Eske
(Málainn Bhig)(Málainn Bhig) CarrickCarrick ClagganClaggan abbey on Donegal Bay, see p221 Donegal Town. For full details, see p221.
(An Charraig)(An Charraig) LetterbarraLetterbarra BarnesmoreBarnesmore
FrossesFrosses
TeelinTeelin KilcarKilcar
(Teileann)(Teileann) (Cill Charthaigh)(Cill Charthaigh) InverInver
DONEGAL TOWNDONEGAL TOWN
SLIEVE LEAGUESLIEVE LEAGUE LargyLargy KILLYBEGSKILLYBEGS DunkineelyDunkineely MountcharlesMountcharles CopanyCopany
(Sliabh Liag)(Sliabh Liag) MuckrosMuckros LoughLough
HeadHead McSwyne’sMcSwyne’s LaghyLaghy
Bay Bay InverInver DonegalDonegal DergDerg
Bay Bay
HarbourHarbour
D D St John’sSt John’s Bridge TownBridge Town
o o PointPoint
BallintraBallintra
ROSSNOWLAGHROSSNOWLAGH
n e g a l B a
CoolmoreCoolmore
n e g a l B a y y
CavangardenCavangarden
BallyshannonBallyshannon
212-213_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 213 11/09/17 11:38 am

214 BACK ROADS IRELAND


R251 to Churchill. Drive on, passing
Lough Gartan on the left. Turn left at a
sign for Glebe House and Gallery; it is
a short distance off the main road.
2 The Glebe House and
Gallery
Churchill, Co Donegal
Once the home of English-born
landscape and society portrait artist
Derek Hill (1916–2000), this red-brick
Regency-style house (open Easter:
daily; Jun–Sep: Sat–Thu) on the shore
of Lough Gartan was built in 1828 as
a rectory. Guided tours of the well-
preserved interior reveal William
Morris wallpapers, Islamic ceramics,
paintings by Tory Island artists (see
p217) and objects collected by Hill
over the years – etchings and
ceramics by Picasso, and paintings by
Renoir, Kokoschka and Jack B Yeats.
The adjacent Glebe Gallery stages
Above Doe Castle, overlooking Sheephaven changing exhibitions.
Bay Above top right The waterwheel at 1 Newmills ª Continue on the R251 to Glenveagh
Newmills Corn and Flax Mills Above right Co Donegal National Park Visitor Centre.
Creeslough, on the road to Dunfanaghy Newmills Corn and Flax Mills (open
Jun–Sep), on the banks of the River 3 Glenveagh National Park
Swilly, are fine relics of Ireland’s and Castle
VISITING NEWMILLS
industrial heritage, with some parts Churchhill, Co Donegal
of the complex dating back 400 This spectacular national park
Newmills Corn and Flax Mills are 5 km
(3 miles) outside Letterkenny using R250. years. The corn mill is driven by one (open daily) covers 16,000 hectares
Off Churchill Rd; 074 912 5155; open of the largest waterwheels in the (61 sq. miles) of mountains, lakes,
May–Sep country, while a smaller wheel bogs and woodlands, home to red
powers the machinery for extracting deer and golden eagles – the latter
VISITING GLENVEAGH
NATIONAL PARK the fibre in flax. There are working reintroduced to Ireland in 2001.
models and demonstrations that In the centre of the park is the cast-
Glenveagh National Park show how flax is turned into ellated Glenveagh Castle, a 19th-
Visitor Centre linen cloth. century structure set beside Lough
The visitor centre is on the northern ª Leaving Newmills, turn left at main Veagh, while dome-shaped Mount
end of Lough Veagh, on the R251. A
shuttle bus runs to castle and gardens. road and continue on R250, then on Errigal (749 m/2,457 ft), the highest
Churchill; 076 100 2537;
www.glenveaghnationalpark.ie Below Moody view of Glenveagh National Park, with Lough Veagh at the centre
WHERE TO STAY
DUNFANAGHY
Arnolds Hotel expensive
Family-run hotel with own restaurant,
popular Whiskey Fly Bar and riding
stables offering treks along beaches.
Dunfanaghy; 074 913 6208;
www.arnoldshotel.com
AROUND DUNFANAGHY
Shandon Hotel and Spa expensive
Luxury hotel on a hillside overlooking
Sheephaven Bay, east of Dunfanaghy
(N56 towards Letterkenny and third left
for Marble Hill). Sea views from bed-
rooms and spa, and an outdoor hot-tub.
Marble Hill Strand, Port na Blagh; 074
913 6137; www.shandonhotelspa.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive under €100; moderate €100–€200; expensive over €200


214-221_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 214 13/10/17 1:06 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 21st July 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Fonts Bulletfont, Clearbullet,
Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro, Travelfont

DRIVE 21: Dramatic Donegal 215





















Above Errigal Mountain, the highest in Donegal, marks the western end of Glenveagh National Park
EAT AND DRINK
mountain in Donegal, overlooks DUNFANAGHY
the park to the west. The Visitor The Rock of Doon Muck and Muffins inexpensive
Centre (open Jan–Oct) supplies A right turn off the R255 to Termon Watch pottery being made in the clay
information, maps, and tickets for from Glenveagh leads to Garton and pottery studio and then tuck into
and the Rock of Doon (Carraig a
the shuttle bus to the castle (every Duin), where chieftains of Donegal’s cake and coffee or a glass of wine in
15 minutes) for guided tours of the leading clan, the O’Donnells, were this café and wine bar in the centre
late-Victorian interior, walks in inaugurated from 1200 until 1603. of Dunfanaghy.
The Square, 074 913 6780
the gardens – particularly notable A path leads up to the rock from a
for their rhododendrons from March small car park, next to which is the AROUND DUNFANAGHY
to May – tea rooms, and nature trail Well of Doon, one of Ireland’s The Cove moderate
many healing wells. Another path
leading to a viewpoint over Lough leads to the Mass Rocks, where This cosy, family-run restaurant
Veagh. It is also possible to walk the Catholics held Mass in secret after overlooking Sheephaven Bay at
7 km (4 miles) to the castle. the introduction of anti-Catholic Rockhill, a couple of kilometres (miles)
east of Dunfanaghy (from Dunfanaghy,
Regular guided walks are offered penal laws in 1691. take the N56 in the direction of
by park rangers and there are serious Letterkenny), serves contemporary
walking trails for experienced hikers. Irish cuisine with an emphasis on
ª Leaving Glenveagh Visitor Centre, 5 Ards Forest Park fresh seafood.
turn right onto the R251 and take Creeslough, Co Donegal Rockhill, Port na Blagh; 074 913 6300
the second left onto the R255 With woodlands, lakes, rivers, bogs
towards Termon. Turn left at the N56 and good sandy beaches, this forest Below Heather-strewn hills around the Rock
for Creeslough and Dunfanaghy. In park offers signposted hiking trails, of Doon, beyond Glenveagh National Park
Creeslough, turn right at the sign 3–13 km (2–8 miles) in length. Points
for Doe Castle, 3 km (2 miles) off of interest include megalithic tombs
the main road. and four Iron Age ring forts.
ª Rejoin the N56 and continue north
4 Doe Castle to Dunfanaghy.
Creeslough,Co Donegal
Sixteenth-century Doe Castle 6 Dunfanaghy
(open daily) is worth seeing for its Co Donegal
lovely setting on a promontory on The gateway to the Horn Head
Sheephaven Bay, with sea on three Peninsula, this attractive holiday
sides. It was originally the seat of the resort has a fine 18-hole links golf
MacSweeneys, a family of Scottish course. Its other attraction is The
mercenaries who were outlawed in Workhouse (open Apr–Oct: daily; Nov–
1691. Occupied until 1909, it is now Mar: Mon–Wed), once the last refuge
run by the state. It is also a venue for of the desperate poor and now a
traditional music and other events. heritage centre documenting life in
ª Drive back along the same road to the area during the Great Famine.
the N56 and continue north, turning ª Follow Horn Head signs out of town
right at the sign for Ards Forest Park. for the scenic drive, and park at Horn
Park in the marked car park. Head Bridge for walk to Tramore Beach.




214-221_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 215 13/10/17 1:06 pm

216 BACK ROADS IRELAND

7 Horn Head
Dunfanaghy, Co Donegal
A scenic 13-km (8-mile) drive around Horn Head offers panoramic
views of the northwest coast, from the Rosguill Peninsula off to the
east to Tory Island and the Bloody Foreland to the west. The lonely,
heather-covered headland rises sheer from the sea, its ledges an
ideal habitat for guillemots, gulls, puffins and storm petrels. At the
tip of the headland, walk to the viewpoint at Faugher for the best
views of the 180-m (600-ft) high cliffs, as well as the ruins of a
17th-century signal tower. Afterwards enjoy a walk to Tramore
Beach from Horn Head Bridge.
A two-hour walking tour to care around here, especially in
Above Horn Head and the holiday resort of Tramore Beach inclement weather).
Dunfanaghy It is possible to walk all the way To complete the short walk, retrace
round Horn Head (13 km/8 miles), the path back to Horn Head Bridge.
but for a shorter walk (8 km/5 miles), ª Continue along the N56 through
concentrate on the area just north the Gaeltacht town of Falcarragh, and
of Tramore Beach, the beautiful follow the signs for Bloody Foreland.
dune-fringed arc of sand that Keep right on Station Road and turn
stretches along the western side onto the R257 after Gortahork.
of Horn Head.
The beach can be accessed along
a public footpath from Horn Head
Bridge 1. At the far end of the
bridge a public footpath runs for
nearly 3 km (2 miles) through the
VISITING HORN HEAD
sand dunes. Tramore Beach 2 has
Parking rock pools to explore as well as a
As you leave Dunfanaghy for the Celtic stone circle 3 on the hill
scenic drive around Horn Head you overlooking the beach – to reach it,
pass Horn Head Bridge 1 km (half a follow the sheep track north. Don’t
mile) west of the town, where you can
park for the walk to Tramore Beach. miss McSwine’s Gun 4, near the
edge of the cliff – a sea cave with a
blow hole that noisily spouts water
when the northwesterly winds blow.
On a calm day it is possible to peer
down the blow hole to the sea, Above Flock of sheep clustered on a rugged green
about 30 m (100 ft) below (take extra Donegal hillside

WHERE TO STAY

AROUND HORN HEAD
The Mill House inexpensive McSwine’s
A pretty mill house, dating from 1798, Gun
near Tramore Beach, 16 km (10 miles)
west of Dunfanaghy. It has en-suite Stone Circle
B&B rooms and dormitories, as well as
camping and glamping facilities.
Corcreggan, Dunfanaghy; 074 913
6409; www.corcreggan.com
Tramore
BUNBEG (AN BUN BEAG) Beach Horn Head DUNFANAGHY
Bridge
Bunbeg House inexpensive
Occupying a wonderful spot down
by the tiny harbour, this pleasant
guesthouse has cosy rooms, all with
water views; in warmer weather 0 metres 500
breakfast is taken out on the terrace.
Bunbeg; 074 953 1305; 0 yards 500
www.bunbeghouse.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive under €100; moderate €100–€200; expensive over €200

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DRIVE 21: Dramatic Donegal 217


















Above left Craggy rock formations on Tory
8 Bloody Foreland right turn at the brown “Trá” (beach) Island Above The hilly lanes around the
Co Donegal sign and drive to the tiny harbour. village of Bunbeg
This most northwesterly corner of Ferries serve Tory Island year round
Ireland is said to have been named and nearby Gola Island in summer.
for the red glow of its rocks at sunset, ª Leaving Bunbeg, take the R258 to
though more sinister rumours claim Gweedore, then turn left on the N56.
it refers to past battles. Though fairly At the junction with the R251, fork
built up, parts of it remain wild and right, driving alongside Lough
windswept, and from the north side Dunlewey. Dunlewey is at the far end
of the headland there are superb of the lake, below Mount Errigal.
views out to Tory Island and back to
Horn Head and Muckish Mountain. Visiting Tory Island
The beaches here attract surfers. As Ferries to Tory Island, 15 km
the road turns the corner and heads (9 miles) off Donegal’s coast, leave
south to Bun na Leaca, there are from Magheroarty (which has a
views to The Rosses and Aran Island. good crafts shop) on the road to
ª Continue along the R257 south Bloody Foreland, and the village of
Bunbeg, and take about an hour
through Derrybeg to Bunbeg. (www.toryislandferry.com). The island
is famous for its artists, drawn here
9 Bunbeg (An Bun Beag) by the quality of its light since the
Visitors are likely to hear Irish spoken 1950s, and 6th-century monastic
in this long, narrow village, which ruins with a round tower. Bikes can
has views of the sea on one side and be hired to explore the island and
coastal paths offer good walking.
towards conical Mount Errigal on the The main village is West Town.
other. On the way through, take a
Below Bunbeg’s attractive harbour, departure point for ferries to Tory and Gola islands
EAT AND DRINK

AROUND HORN HEAD
The Mill Restaurant moderate
Very popular family-run restaurant on
the shores of New Lake on the N56
west of Dunfanaghy, soon after the
turning for Horn Head. Serves modern
Irish cuisine using fresh, local produce.
Also has seven en suite guest rooms.
Book well ahead, especially in summer.
Figart, Dunfanaghy, Co Donegal; 074
913 6985; www.themillrestaurant.com
BUNBEG (AN BUN BEAG)
Teach Hiudái Beag inexpensive
Traditional pub with a lively folk music
session every Monday night; it pulls in
some big names.
Bunbeg; 074 953 1016
Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €25; moderate €25–€50; expensive over €50


214-221_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 217 13/10/17 1:06 pm

218 BACK ROADS IRELAND


ª Drive back to Gweedore, but carry
on along the N56 to Crolly, then turn
right onto the R259 to Annagry
(signposted Donegal Airport).
q The Rosses (Na Rosa)
Co Donegal
This Irish-speaking region is a pretty,
hilly corner of Donegal, with a
hinterland full of small lake-filled
valleys and a jagged coast with
sandy coves. Almost every brown
sign for a Trá (beach) leads to an
idyllic stretch of sand, very often
deserted. Many well-known
musicians have roots in the area,
including the popular Irish music
group Clannad and the singer Enya.
The famous Irish country singer
Daniel O’Donnell is from the small
village of Kincasslagh (Cionn
Caslach). From the village, follow the
Above Isolated cottage near Burtonport in signs for the airport and head for
The Rosses Above top right Grassy 0 Dunlewey (Dún Lúiche) the car park behind the airport; from
landscape around the village of Ardara, the Dunlewey, Co Donegal here a short walk leads to a lovely
start of the Glengesh Pass Above right Low The 30-m (100-ft) high round tower beach backed by dunes.
tide exposes the mudflats at The Rosses of the Church of the Sacred Heart – a Just offshore, joined to the
19th-century take on early Christian mainland by bridge, is scenic Cruit
forms – signals the approach to Island (An Chruit), which has one of
Dunlewey, set on the shores of the most scenic links golf courses in
Lough Dunlewey under Donegal’s the country. To get to the island, turn
highest mountain, Mount Errigal. right just after Kincasslagh’s Viking
The various attractions of Dunlewey House Hotel. Drive to the end of the
VISITING ARAN ISLAND Lakeside Centre (Ionad Cois Locha), island to take in the outstanding
(open daily) include a recreated 19th- views on all sides.
Ferries make the 15-minute crossing century weaver’s cottage, a small Ferries for nearby Aran Island
from Burtonport to Aran (Arranmore) farm with animals to pet, and boat (Árainn Mhór), a large, populated
Island frequently in Jun, Jul and Aug.
Arranmore Fast Ferry; (087) 317 1810; trips on the lake. There is also a crafts island, leave from Burtonport (Ailt an
www.arranmorefastferry.com shop, which sells Donegal Tweed. Chorráin), a small fishing port which
was once one of the most important
Below The spectacular Glengesh Pass between ports in the country and has a couple
WHERE TO STAY Glengesh Hill and Common Mountain of excellent seafood restaurants.
DUNLEWEY
Errigal Youth Hostel inexpensive
This hostel enjoys a spectacular
location at the foot of Mount Errigal
in Dunlewey. It’s an ideal base for
exploring Glenveagh National Park
or Mount Errigal itself.
Dunlewey; 074 953 1180;
www.anoige.ie
THE ROSSES
Donegal Thatched Cottages
inexpensive–moderate
A selection of attractive cottages on
Cruit Island, set in the midst of some
of the most breathtaking scenery
in Donegal.
Cruit Island, Kincasslagh; 071 9177197;
www.donegalthatchedcottages.com

Where to Stay: inexpensive under €100; moderate €100–€200; expensive over €200


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DRIVE 21: Dramatic Donegal 219


Dungloe (An Clochán Liath),
the last stop on the peninsula, is
the main town of The Rosses. It has
a seasonal tourist office (in the
converted church at the top of the
village) and is a good place to stock
up on provisions. For 10 days every
yeat at the end of July the Mary From
Dungloe Festival takes place, a busy
programme of music, parades and
children’s activities culminating in a
beauty pageant to elect the new
“Mary from Dungloe” from young
contenders representing the
counties of Ireland.
ª Drive straight through Dungloe
but instead of turning left with the
main road at the top of the hill, keep
straight, leaving the church on your Above Gweebarra Bay, on the scenic coastal
left. The road will become narrower passes through the spectacular road from Dungloe in The Rosses to Ardara
and bumpier, but the drive is worth Glengesh Pass, a steep mountain
it for the scenery. After rejoining road winding between Glengesh
the N56, turn right for a detour to the Hill and Common Mountain, with
beach at Dooey Point, then rejoin viewpoints along the way.
the N56 and travel south to Ardara. ª Leaving Ardara take the N56 to
Donegal and then turn right onto the
R230 for Glencolmcille through the
Glengesh Pass. In Glencolmcille drive SHOPPING IN ARDARA
straight through the village to An
Cláchan, the Folk Village Museum. The factory shop of John Molloy
(07495 41133; www.johnmolloy.com)
There is a car park at the museum. sells hand-knitted Aran fisherman’s
jumpers, contemporary knitwear
e Glencolmcille (Gleann designs and classic Donegal tweeds,
Cholm Cille) including traditional caps. Kennedy
Co Donegal of Ardara (075 41106) has been
making Aran jumpers in the town for
One of the most westerly points of more than 100 years. Trióna Design
Donegal, on a peninsula reaching far (07495 41422; www trionadesign.
into the Atlantic, the quiet village of com), based in the old Mart building,
Glencolmcille has a remote feel. The which used to house one of Donegal’s
original tweed makers, was reopened
Above Hand-loom weaver at work on a area, named after St Columba (Colm by the Mulhern family in the 1980s
traditional loom in Ardara Cille) was hit hard by emigration after and now makes stylish handwoven
the 1950s. The Folk Village Museum tweed coats and suits.
w Ardara (An Cláchan) (open Easter–Sep)
Co Donegal recaptures life in rural Donegal EAT AND DRINK AROUND
Ardara is an attractive, hilly village through the centuries, with three THE ROSSES
and a good place to buy hand- cottages representing the 1700s,
woven tweeds, handknits or crafts, 1800s and 1900s. The village is also Danny Minnie’s moderate
with long-established names such the base of Oideas Gael, a respected This family-run restaurant in Annagry,
The Rosses, serves modern cuisine,
as Kennedy of Ardara, John Molloy, provider of courses in Irish language with seafood a speciality. Log fires,
Campbells and Trióna Design for and culture. tapestries and antiques create a cosy
sale. See the weavers’ looms in ª From Glencolmcille take the L1025 atmosphere. Also has a small number
action in some of the larger shops to Carrick (11 km/7 miles). Follow of en-suite guest rooms.
Annagry, Co Donegal; 074 954 8201;
or visit the Ardara Heritage Centre signs for Bunglas and Slieve League, www.dannyminnies.ie
(open Easter–Sep) on the main street, turning right at Carrick for Teelin. In
to learn about the history of the Teelin, turn right just before the The Lobster Pot moderate
Seafood is a speciality of this pub and
tweed industry in Donegal since school. Proceed to the first car park restaurant near the pier in Burtonport,
the 1900s, from sheep shearing to and then walk the 2 km (1 mile) to the with lobster a particular favourite.
spinning and weaving. cliffs (if feeling brave – the road ahead Open fires and a warm welcome
The drive from Ardara to is rough with no barriers and sheer characterise this friendly spot.
Glencolmcille west of the town drops – drive on to the top car park). Burtonport, Co Donegal; 074 954 2012
Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €25; moderate €25–€50; expensive over €50

214-221_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 219 11/09/17 12:30 pm

220 BACK ROADS IRELAND


















Above Killybegs’ busy fishing harbour Above
centre Stone-fronted pub in Donegal Town r Slieve League (Sliabh centre has the longest hand-knitting
Above right Rossnowlagh’s wide sandy Liag) loom in the world. There are
beach, popular with families and surfers Bunglas; Co Donegal demonstrations of the town’s
At 600 m (2,000 ft) high, the cliffs hand-knotted carpet industry,
at Slieve League are among the famous since Donegal Carpets was
highest sea cliffs in Europe. It is established in Killybegs in 1898.
possible to walk to their summit, The company’s carpets grace some
but the walking trail, One Man’s of the world’s finest houses, from
VISITING DONEGAL TOWN
Pass, has several narrow ledges and Dublin Castle to the White House.
Parking sheer drops and is only suitable for ª Continue along the N56 to
Park on the street near the castle. extremely experienced hikers. The Donegal Town and park on the street
Tourist Information full 4½-hour walk has far-reaching near the castle in the centre.
The Quay, Donegal Town; 074 972 views, including to the beautiful
1148; www.govisitdonegal.com crescent-shaped strand at Malin y Donegal Town
Beg. Perhaps the best way to view Co Donegal
WHERE TO STAY the cliffs is to take a boat trip, The county town of Donegal is a
departing from Teelin pier. good base for exploring the
AROUND KILLYBEGS ª Rejoin the R263 and follow signs southern part of the county. Its
Castle Murray House Hotel for Killybegs and Donegal Town. name means “Fort of the Foreigners”,
moderate possibly after the Vikings, who built
Situated on a narrow headland jutting t Killybegs a garrison here in the 9th century.
into McSwynes Bay, 8 km (5 miles) east Co Donegal Its main sight is Donegal Castle
of Killybegs, with views over the bay
and the hills. Its French-Irish restaurant A major fishing port, Killybegs (Easter–mid-Sep: daily; mid-Sep–early
specializes in seafood and has a live harbour is always packed with Apr: Thur–Mon), built on a loop in
lobster tank. A romantic treat. trawlers. It is also home to the the River Eske in the town centre.
St John’s Point, Dunkineely; 074 973 Maritime and Heritage Centre (open Restored in the 1990s, it was
7022; www.castlemurray.com
Mon to Fri; daily Jul–Aug), which tells originally the seat of the O’Donnell
AROUND DONEGAL TOWN the story of the area’s history. The clan, rulers of Donegal until 1607
Harvey’s Point expensive
A country hotel on the shores of Below The soaring cliffs of Slieve League, among the highest in Europe
Lough Eske, this is a peaceful haven
a few kilometres north of Donegal
Town. Rooms are huge and luxurious,
with king-size beds and Italian
marble bathrooms.
Lough Eske, Donegal Town; 074 972
2208; www.harveyspoint.com
ROSSNOWLAGH
The Sandhouse Hotel expensive
Imposing hotel on the waterfront.
Watch the sunset from the deck, fall
asleep to the gentle sounds of the
Atlantic rolling, and in the morning
take in sea views from the hotel’s
drawing room or outdoor terrace.
Rossnowlagh, 071 985 1777;
www.sandhouse.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive under €100; moderate €100–€200; expensive over €200


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DRIVE 21: Dramatic Donegal 221


when they fled Ireland for Spain in
the misguided hope of rallying
Catholic support against the English.
The castle was granted to Sir Basil
Brooke, an English captain, who
remodelled it in the Jacobean style,
retaining the original tower. Guided
tours of the castle reveal interiors
representative of these two eras.
Brooke also laid out the town’s
market square, known as the
Diamond. An obelisk in the centre
commemorates four Franciscan Above Teelin Bay, departure point for boat
monks from Donegal Abbey who Lough Derg trips around Slieve League
wrote the Annals of the Four Masters Thirty-three kilometres (20 miles)
(1630s), a history of Gaelic people southeast of Donegal, Lough Derg
from 40 days before the Great Flood is the site of an annual pilgrimage SHOPPING IN KILLYBEGS
until the end of the 16th century. The known as St Patrick’s Purgatory,
ruins of the Franciscan Abbey (1474) marking the 40 days St Patrick spent Donegal Carpets, next to the
in prayer here, trying to rid Ireland
– a few cloister arches and Gothic of evil spirits. Between June and Killybegs Maritime and Heritage Centre
windows – lie on the mouth of the August thousands of pilgrims (074 9741944; www.visitkillybegs.com),
River Eske. descend on Station Island for a produces world-famous hand-knotted
rugs, many of which grace stately
ª From Donegal Town, follow the three-day fast and 24-hour vigil. homes across the world. There is also
signs for Sligo, turning right onto Only pilgrims can attend, but it is a crafts shop at the centre.
the N15. At Ballintra, turn right atmospheric to go to the jetty and
view the basilica from the shore.
onto the R231 for Rossnowlagh. There is also an exhibition in the EAT AND DRINK
visitor centre on the lakeshore. ROSSNOWLAGH
Smugglers Creek moderate
u Rossnowlagh Tuck into bar food or dine in style in
the restaurant (Fri–Sun only) at this
Co Donegal cosy, lively pub near Rossnowlagh.
The main attraction here is the long Accommodation is also available.
sandy beach. There is a surf school Rossnowlagh; 071 985 2366;
and a surf club, and the gently www.smugglerscreekinn.com
sloping beach offers suitable AROUND ROSSNOWLAGH
conditions for beginners, as well as Creevy Pier Hotel moderate
good swimming. Another attraction Remote location 5 km (3 miles) south
is the Sandhouse Hotel on the of Rossnowlagh on the R231, with
seafront. Dating from the 1830s, it is superb views of Donegal Bay. Seafood
is a speciality and you can either dine
a nice spot for afternoon tea. in the restaurant or eat in the bar.
Above Lake in the craggy, boulder-strewn ª Return via the R231 to the main Kildoney Glebe, Ballyshannon; 071 985
mountains around Slieve League N15 to Sligo. 8355; www.creevy.ie
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Get there on the N56, turning off onto Clifftop walks and winter woollies
If time is short, three places are the R255 before Termon. Starting from Donegal, head to the
relatively easy to access – Glenveagh western end of the peninsula for the
National Park, The Rosses and Rocky coasts and Irish music towering cliffs at Slieve League r,
Donegal Bay. A Gaeltacht area, The Rosses q stopping at Killybegs t for a walk
is one of the loveliest corners of
Outdoor activities Ireland, with a rocky coast enclosing around its busy harbour and to shop
Glenveagh National Park 3 runs a sandy bays, easily accessed islands for hand knits and tweeds. Returning
wide programme of free events and such as Aran and Cruit, and a to Donegal, stop for dinner at Castle
activities, including ranger-led walks hinterland with many lake-filled Murray Hotel on St John’s Point, a
through the park. For information valleys. It also has a strong musical slender finger of land with lovely
about events, contact 074 913 7090; tradition, evident in its pubs, and views on all sides.
www.glenveaghnationalpark.ie. good seafood restaurants.
The gardens at Glenveagh Castle Donegal is quickly accessed on the
within the park are known for their Access The Rosses on the N56, turning N15. From there, the N56 links up with
rhododendrons and walled garden. onto the R259 at Crolly. the R263 to Slieve League.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive under €25; moderate €25–€50; expensive over €50


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BR_IR_222-223.indd 222 23/10/09 14:32:27
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The Fanad
Peninsula
Ramelton to
Rosguill
Peninsula
Highlights
• Historic departure
Learn about the Flight of the Earls,
a landmark in Irish history, at the old
battery fort in Rathmullan
• Sweeping bays
Discover some of northwest Ireland’s
loveliest bays, such as Warden Beach
and Tranarossan
• Georgian lighthouse
Visit Fanad Head, one of Ireland’s
most northerly points, for stirring
Atlantic views and its lighthouse
• Scenic Atlantic Drive
Take a memorable cliffside drive
around the Rossguill Peninsula
The dramatically sited lighthouse on Fanad
Head
BR_IR_222-223.indd 223 4/11/09 11:51:44

224 BACK ROADS IRELAND

The Fanad Peninsula

The Fanad (Fanaid) Peninsula and neighbouring Rosguill Peninsula feature
some of Ireland’s finest seascapes. Magnificent golden beaches are backed
by a mix of rolling farmland and heathland, threaded by empty roads
affording panoramic views over Lough Swilly and Sheephaven Bay. A series
of rocky headlands culminate in Fanad Head itself, a dramatic spot topped
by a whitewashed lighthouse. Stride or ride along near-deserted beaches,
explore heather-lined coastal paths, enjoy fishing, golf or watersports in
Rathmullan or Portsalon, or simply sit on the sands or eat locally caught
FANAD HEAD
FANAD HEAD
seafood in the pretty resort towns that dot the coast. (Cionn Fhánada) DunaffDunaff
(Cionn Fhánada)
HeadHead
Balloor DunaffDunaff
Balloor
(An Baile Úr)
(An Baile Úr)
Melmore
Melmore
Head Head BallyhiernanBallyhiernan ClagganClaggan
Bay Bay
ROSGUILL
ROSGUILL Doagh Beg
Doagh Beg
(Dumhaigh Bhig)
PENINSULA (Dumhaigh Bhig)
PENINSULA
F anadF anad
Clontallagh
Clontallagh
RosguillRosguill (Cluain tSalach) (F ánaid)(F ánaid)
(Cluain tSalach)
(Ros Goill)(Ros Goill)
SheephavenSheephaven Milltown PORTSALONPORTSALON
Milltown
(Baile an Mhuilinn)
BayBay (Baile an Mhuilinn) DrumfreeDrumfree
Downings BALLYMASTOCKER MuineaghMuineagh
BALLYMASTOCKER
Downings
(Na Dúnaibh) M ulroy Bay BAY BAY Slieve SnaghtSlieve Snaght
(Na Dúnaibh)
Rosapenna
Rosapenna L o 615m615m
M ulroy Bay
L o
(Machaire Loiscthe)
(Machaire Loiscthe) Rossnakill u u
Rossnakill
Carrigart Knockalla Knockalla g g
Carrigart
(Carraig Airt) Mountain Mountain h h Inisho w enInisho w en
(Carraig Airt)
Glenvar S
Glenvar
S
(Gleann Bhairr)
(Gleann Bhairr) w w
Buncrana
Cranford
Cashelmore Cranford i i Buncrana
Cashelmore
Kerrykeel Saltpans l l
Kerrykeel
Saltpans
(An Cheathrú l l
(An Cheathrú
Creeslough
Creeslough Glen Glen Chaol) y y
Chaol)
GlenGlen
LoughLough
RATHMULLAN
Derriscligh
Derriscligh RATHMULLAN
Milford
Milford
Drumnaraw Lough SaltLough Salt Fahan Fahan
Drumnaraw
(Droim na Rátha) RayRay
(Droim na Rátha)
DONEGALDONEGAL InchInch
Above The Flight of the Earls Visitors Centre, Termon Lough KeelLough Keel LoughLough BurnfootBurnfoot
Termon
(An Tearmann)
Portleen
Rathmullan, see p226 (An Tearmann) Portleen FennFenn
Bridge EndBridge End
ACTIVITIES Kilmacrenan RAMELTONRAMELTON CarrowenCarrowen SpeenogeSpeenoge
Kilmacrenan
Gallop along the shores of Lough Dromore Keenaghan
Keenaghan
Dromore
Swilly at Rathmullan Strand NewtonNewton
CunninghamCunningham
Ellistrin
Jump on a ferry to Buncrana, a Church Hill Ellistrin
Church Hill
10-minute trip across Lough Swilly Killyclug
Killyclug
from Rathmullan
Take a walk on the golden sands of LetterkennyLetterkenny
Warden Beach
Swilly Swilly Old Town PluckPluck Lismogry
Lismogry
Old Town
Spin for mackerel off a pier, wrestle
Letterleague
with a bluefin tuna, or learn to fly-fish Letterleague Newmills Listellian
Newmills
Listellian
for rainbow trout at Portsalon
or Downings
Paddle a kayak or hire a pedalo
from Portsalon Pier
KEY
Get into the swing at Portsalon Golf Drive route
Club or Rosapenna’s spectacularly
sited 18-hole links courses
224-225_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 224 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 22: The Fanad Peninsula 225

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Ramelton to Rosguill
Peninsula.
Number of days: 2 days.
Distance: 116 km (72 miles).
Road conditions: Some regional
roads are narrow, and some
unclassified roads have no central
FANAD HEADFANAD HEAD DunaffDunaff dividing line, so it is often necessary
(Cionn Fhánada)(Cionn Fhánada) HeadHead to slow down when approaching
BalloorBalloor DunaffDunaff oncoming traffic. On minor roads,
(An Baile Úr)(An Baile Úr)
MelmoreMelmore watch out for sheep and wildlife.
HeadHead BallyhiernanBallyhiernan ClagganClaggan
Bay Bay Above Boats in the bay just off the pier at When to go: The north west of
ROSGUILLROSGUILL Doagh BegDoagh Beg Portsalon, see p228 Ireland can be harsh in winter with
PENINSULAPENINSULA (Dumhaigh Bhig)(Dumhaigh Bhig)
F anadF anad cold Atlantic winds, so spring to
ClontallaghClontallagh autumn are the best times to visit. Be
RosguillRosguill (Cluain tSalach)(Cluain tSalach) (F ánaid)(F ánaid)
(Ros Goill)(Ros Goill) prepared for rain at any time of year.
SheephavenSheephaven MilltownMilltown PORTSALONPORTSALON Plan carefully around festivals, when
BayBay (Baile an Mhuilinn)(Baile an Mhuilinn) DrumfreeDrumfree
DowningsDownings BALLYMASTOCKERBALLYMASTOCKER MuineaghMuineagh accommodation can be hard to find.
(Na Dúnaibh)(Na Dúnaibh) M ulroy Bay BAYBAY Slieve SnaghtSlieve Snaght
RosapennaRosapenna L o 615m615m Opening times: Most shops and
M ulroy Bay
L o
(Machaire Loiscthe)(Machaire Loiscthe) RossnakillRossnakill u u
CarrigartCarrigart Knockalla Knockalla g g attractions are open from 9 or
(Carraig Airt)(Carraig Airt) Mountain Mountain h h Inisho w enInisho w en 10am to 5 or 6pm. Shops are usually
GlenvarGlenvar S open Mon–Sat. In large towns and
S
(Gleann Bhairr)(Gleann Bhairr) w w 0 kilometres 5 shopping centres, shops usually stay
CashelmoreCashelmore CranfordCranford i i BuncranaBuncrana open late one night on Thu or Fri
KerrykeelKerrykeel SaltpansSaltpans l l 0 miles 5
(An Cheathrú (An Cheathrú l l and open from 12 to 6pm on Sundays.
CreesloughCreeslough GlenGlen Chaol)Chaol) y y
GlenGlen In most villages there are small
LoughLough convenience stores which open
DerrisclighDerriscligh RATHMULLANRATHMULLAN from 7 or 8am until late.
MilfordMilford
DrumnarawDrumnaraw Lough SaltLough Salt FahanFahan Main market days: Ramelton:
(Droim na Rátha)(Droim na Rátha) RayRay
DONEGALDONEGAL country market (Town Hall), Sat.
Lough KeelLough Keel InchInch
TermonTermon Major festivals: Rathmullan:
(An Tearmann)(An Tearmann) PortleenPortleen LoughLough BurnfootBurnfoot Community Festival, Jul/Aug; Angling
FennFenn
Bridge EndBridge End Festival, Jun; Earagail Arts Festival
KilmacrenanKilmacrenan RAMELTONRAMELTON CarrowenCarrowen SpeenogeSpeenoge (throughout Donegal), Aug; Rosguill
Below The gentle waves at Portsalon Beach, Peninsula: Downings, Jul/Aug.
KeenaghanKeenaghan
DromoreDromore Lough Swilly, see p228
NewtonNewton
CunninghamCunningham
Church HillChurch Hill EllistrinEllistrin
KillyclugKillyclug
LetterkennyLetterkenny DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Swilly Swilly Old TownOld Town PluckPluck LismogryLismogry Families will enjoy a leisurely day
LetterleagueLetterleague in Rathmullan, trying out the
NewmillsNewmills ListellianListellian watersports, golf courses and horse
riding, just sitting on the beautiful
beach, or perhaps taking the ferry to
Buncrana for a change of scene.
Alternatively, focus on the Atlantic
Drive, a thrilling ride round the
Rosguill Peninsula with dramatic
views on all sides. For full details,
see p229.
224-225_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 225 11/09/17 12:30 pm

226 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Ramelton
Co Donegal
Set on the banks of the River
Leannan, this pretty heritage
town was once a prosperous trading
port and linen market. Georgian
townhouses and cottages line the
streets and stone mills and 19th-
century warehouses with red doors
create an attractive quayside. The
arrival of the railway in Letterkenny
led to Ramelton’s decline in the 19th
century. Rugby Union aficionados
might be interested to know that
world-famous player Dave Gallaher,
captain of New Zealand’s All Blacks
from 1903 to 1906, was born here.
ª From Ramelton, take the R247 to
Rathmullan. Turn right at Pier Road
Above and above top right The old mill and park in the car park by the pier.
buildings and warehouses lining Ramelton’s
quay Above right Brightly painted houses 2 Rathmullan
in the seaside resort of Rathmullan Co Donegal
This seaside resort on the shores of Lough Swilly has a magnificent
setting, with sweeping views across the lough to Inch Island and
Buncrana on the Inishowen Peninsula. It has a pier with a marina
and a long sandy beach, backed by trees. The resort offers angling,
sailing, kayaking, kite-surfing, pony trekking and a 9-hole golf
VISITING RATHMULLAN course. This circular walk combines historical interest, fine views,
a ruined friary and an invigorating stretch along the beach.
Ferry to Buncrana
In summer (Jun–Sep), a car ferry
operates eight times a day between A three-hour walk Ulster – colonization by English and
Rathmullan and Buncrana on the From the car park by the pier, walk to Scots. The visitor centre tells the story
Inishowen Peninsula. The crossing
takes about 20 minutes. the Flight of the Earls Visitor Centre 1 of the earls and the events that
Rathmullan; 087 211 2331; (open Jun–Sep: daily; Easter–Jun: followed, an important episode in
www.swillyferry.com weekends only) in the old battery fort Irish history, which effectively ended
(1810). It was from this spot that the its old aristocracy.
earls of Tyrone and Tyrconnell and Turn north along the beach (with
some 90 supporters fled to France in the sea on the right), for a lovely walk
1607 with the aim of proceeding to along Rathmullan Strand past the
Spain to rally support for the rocky outcrop of Kinnegar Head 2
overthrow of the English in Ireland. and carry on along Kinnegar Strand
Their failure led to the confiscation to the end of the beach, where a
WHERE TO STAY IN of great tracts of Irish land by the stream flows under a bridge. Cross
RATHMULLAN British Crown and the Plantation of Killygarvan Bridge and turn left. To
Rathmullan House expensive
Luxury country house hotel on Lough
Swilly, with direct access to the beach.
Facilities include tennis courts,
a spa with a long list of pampering
treatments, a heated indoor pool,
log fires in winter, and an excellent
restaurant, which uses produce from
its own walled garden.
Lough Swilly; 074 915 8188;
www.rathmullanhouse.com

Right the lush green headlands of fjord-like
Lough Swilly




226-229_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 226 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 22: The Fanad Peninsula 227


Killygarvan
0 metres 500 Bridge
0 yards 500
G L E N R O A D
GLENCROSS
Kinnegar
Lime Kiln Strand
and Lime Quarry
Kinnegar
Head
Standing CARNAFEAGH
Stone
Rathmullan Strand Buncrana

R E D B R A E
RATHMULLAN Above Horse riders on Rathmullan Strand,
with the Inishowen Peninsula beyond
Carmelite
Friary
Flight of the
Earls Visitor Centre

shorten the walk, return along the road glorious panorama. Just after the
to Rathmullan, through pretty copses, road starts climbing, look down
to the friary. For the hardy, continue up to the right. The circular cages in
Glen Road, a long, steep climb with the water below are used to farm
spectacular views of Lough Swilly. The salmon, an important (though
land on the left is known as The Flats. sometimes controversial) industry
The route passes between an on Lough Swilly.
abandoned lime kiln and lime quarry A little further on, the slopes of
3, once used to make whitewash for Knockalla Mountain rise to the left.
the cottages and farmhouses of the Five kilometres (3 miles) before
area. Turn left at Glencross, just after Portsalon, the road rounds on a view
the farmhouse, and walk through over Ballymastocker Bay and its
Carnafeagh, turning sharp right at the golden strand, Warden Beach, one
top of the hill. Look out for a Standing of the best beaches in Ireland. The
Stone 4 on the right. At the T- winding drive down to the bay is
junction, turn left down the Red Brae, one of the prettiest in Donegal. HORSE RIDING IN
RATHMULLAN
back to Rathmullan. The route passes ª Continue north along the R268/
the ruins of a 15th-century Carmelite Fanad Drive to Portsalon. Golden Sands Equestrian Centre
Friary 5, with a church that was Specializes in beach rides. Half or full-
converted to a bishop’s private day outings with picnic included, as
residence in the 17th century. Follow well as rides by the hour.
the road along the seafront and back Rathmullan; 074 915 8124
to the pier. In summer, there is a car
ferry to Buncrana (see left), an attractive EAT AND DRINK IN
resort, with two castles and sandy RATHMULLAN
beaches, on Inishowen Peninsula.
ª From Rathmullan, head north on the Belle’s Kitchen/Salt ’n’ Batter
R247 towards Portsalon. This becomes inexpensive
the R268, signposted Fanad Drive. A great little fish ’n’ chip shop – ideal
for a simple but satisfying meal.
3 Ballymastocker Bay Pier Road; 074 915 8800
Co Donegal The Tap Room inexpensive
North of Rathmullan, the Fanad Drive This terrific little cellar bar, down in
coast road becomes progressively the original basement kitchens of
more scenic as stunning views across Rathmullan House, offers a winning
combination of wood-fired pizzas
Lough Swilly unfold. A series of and craft beers.
viewing points along the way offer Above Spectacular view from the slopes of Rathmullan House, Lough Swilly; 074
opportunities to stop and take in the Knockalla Mountain 915 8874; www.rathmullanhouse.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–50; expensive, over €50


226-229_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 227 11/09/17 12:30 pm

228 BACK ROADS IRELAND


















Above Winding country road on the hillside
near Portsalon Above centre A typical 4 Portsalon The Gaeltacht
thatched cottage on the roadside near Co Donegal Fanad Head is in the Donegal
Portsalon Above right Portsalon’s long, This tiny seaside resort on the east “Gaeltacht”, the name given to the
wave-washed Stocker Strand side of Fanad Head is a hive of Irish-speaking areas of Ireland. Until
activity in summer, with kayaks, the 16th century Irish was the main
HORSE RIDING ON ROSGUILL sailing boats and pedalos bobbing language of Ireland, but under
PENINSULA in the water, and children building British rule English was enforced
and Irish was outlawed. Today,
sandcastles on the strand. The action some 75 per cent of people in the
Carrigart Riding Stables
Pony trekking on the beach. centres on Portsalon Pier (take Gaeltacht speak Irish. Children are
Carrigart; 074 915 3583; open a right turn in the village), where a taught Irish in schools, and road
Easter–Nov small watersports shop hires out wet signs are in Irish; cultural traditions
suits, kayaks and diving equipment, are also preserved. The Donegal
WHERE TO STAY Gaeltacht is one of the largest in
charters boats and runs boat trips the country, stretching almost
around the bay. Anglers can spin for unbroken along the coast from
FANAD HEAD (CIONN FHANADA) mackerel from the pier; high tide or Fanad Head to Slieve League.
Rockhill Holiday Park inexpensive night-time are best. Just along the
Log cabins and mobile homes to rent
in Kerrykeel, between Milford and coast, Portsalon Golf Club, an
Fanad Head. Offers children’s activities 18-hole links course established in 5 Fanad Head (Cionn
including arts, crafts and cookery 1891, has an outstanding setting Fhanada)
classes, as well as go-kart racing, with panoramic views. Co Donegal
watersports, climbing, tennis and ª Take the coast road out of Piled on a rocky outcrop at the tip of
football, and organizes children’s day
trips and summer camps. On the R246 Portsalon, passing through Doagh Fanad Head, Fanad Lighthouse (now
on the outskirts of Kerrykeel. Beg and on to Fanad Head. At Fanad self-catering accommodation) is an
Kerrykeel; 074 915 0012; www.rockhill.ie Head, turn right along the road to attractive ensemble of whitewashed
Fanad lighthouse (1 km/half a mile). buildings clustered around a classic
ROSGUILL PENINSULA Park on right at lighthouse gates.
Tra na Rosann Hostel inexpensive lighthouse tower. It was built in 1818,
Hostel set in pretty countryside with
views of the coast and Tory island. Below The picturesque 19th-century lighthouse atop a rocky outcrop at Fanad Head
Near several quiet beaches and
Tranarossan Bay.
Downings; 074 915 5374;
www.anoige.ie; open Jun–Aug
Downings Bay Hotel moderate
This three-star hotel overlooks the bay
and is a good base for exploring the
area. It also has a leisure centre with an
indoor pool 1 km (half a mile) down
the road.
Downings; 074 915 5586;
www.downingsbayhotel.com
Rosapenna Hotel and Golf Resort
moderate
Four-star hotel on Sheephaven Bay
with two superb links golf courses, a
leisure centre and a pool.
Downings; 074 915 5301;
www.rosapenna.ie

226-229_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 228 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 22: The Fanad Peninsula 229


in response to the tragic sinking of
the Saldana in Lough Swilly – it is said
that all lives were lost save that of the
ship’s parrot, whose silver collar
bearing the ship’s name identified the
vessel. The view from the grounds of
the lighthouse takes in Tory island to
the west and Dunaff Head to the east.
Leaving the lighthouse, take the
main road back through Fanad Head.
Instead of following the R247 to
Kerrykeel follow the coast road
around Ballyhiernan Bay, where
there’s a picnic area, south to Milltown
and back. This detour is a lovely drive
with views over Mulroy Bay and
across to the Rosguill Peninsula. Above Rolling farmland and heathland on the
ª Take the R246 to Kerrykeel (An bend. The 11-km (7-mile) drive starts Fanad Peninsula
Cheathru Chaol). Continue to Milford in Carrigart (Carraig Airt), a Victorian
and turn right onto R245 for Carrigart. village that once formed part of the
estate of the Earls of Leitrim. The
gateway to the Rosguill Peninsula, FISHING ON FANAD HEAD AND
ROSGUILL PENINSULA
it benefits from tourism in summer.
Behind the main street, Strand Park The Meadows Trout Fishery
looks over the dune-backed This man-made lake, fed by a stream,
shoreline. Take the R246 out of is regularly stocked with rainbow trout.
Carrigart. After 6 km (4 miles), there There’s a cabin with a gas ring and
microwave to make lunch or dinner.
is a stunning view over Tranarossan Advice and tuition can be provided by
Bay, a perfect arc of fine white sand. the manager. Booking recommended.
Follow the road round to Cloughfin, Rossnakill (on the R246 from
Rosapenna, which has a long beach, Fanad Head to Kerrykeel); 089 203 8667;
two 18-hole links golf courses – the www.themeadowstroutfishery.ie
Old Tom Morris course dating from Central Fisheries Board
1891 and Sandy Hills, a challenging For information on sea angling,
modern links – and on to Downings including big game fishing off
Downings, contact the Central
(Na Dúnaibh) in Sheephaven Bay. In Fisheries Board. Its website lists charter
autumn, Downings is the launching boats and skippers in the area.
Above The treacherous rocks of Fanad Head, one point for game fishing charters in 01 884 2600; www.fisheriesireland.ie
of Ireland’s most northerly headlands search of giant bluefin tuna.
From Downings, follow the road EAT AND DRINK AROUND FANAD
6 Rosguill Peninsula around the peninsula through a wild HEAD (CIONN FHANADA)
Co Donegal and stony landscape. The road is Ripples Restaurant moderate
Known as the Atlantic Drive, the narrow and bumpy in places, but this Overlooking Mulroy Bay, at the
road around Rosguill Peninsula, from is the most thrilling part of the drive, entrance to Kerrykeel village, this
Mulroy Bay to Sheephaven Bay, is an a succession of scenic inlets and family-friendly restaurant offers steaks,
exhilarating route, with outstanding dramatic seascapes. On the run back duck, fish and chips, and much more.
views of rocky headlands and white to Carrigart, there’s a great viewpoint Kerrykeel; 074 915 0110;
www.ripplesrestaurant.com
sandy bays around every hairpin at Clontallagh (Cluain tSalach).
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Earls Visitor Centre, play golf or enjoy The Atlantic Drive
Seaside Rathmullan, is a lovely a walk in the surrounding area. In For dramatic seascapes and
base for outdoor activities or summer, take the Lough Swilly Ferry unspoiled beaches, drive around
following the Atlantic Drive around from the pier to Buncrana on the the Rossguill Peninsula 7. Don’t
Rossguill Peninsula. Inishowen Peninsula, a 10-minute hop. miss Tranarossan Bay, one of Ireland’s
best beaches.
Historic Rathmullan Rathmullan is 20 km (12 miles) from
Make the most of the great beach and Letterkenny, which links with the N56 From the N56, take the R245 to
outdoor activities at Rathmullan 2 for and N14. See p226 for details of ferries Carrigart (15 km/9 miles), the start
an ideal day trip. Visit the Flight of the to Buncrana. of the drive.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–50; expensive, over €50


226-229_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 229 11/09/17 12:30 pm

BR_IR_230-231_Opener23.indd 230 23/10/09 14:32:55
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Classic
Northern
Ireland
Carrickfergus
to Lough
Neagh
Highlights
• Bushy glens
Drive through some of the nine
forested Glens of Antrim
• Geological marvel
Explore the dramatic and mythic
splendour of the Giant’s Causeway
• Spectacular views
Enjoy panoramic seascapes from the
heights of Bishop’s Drive Road
• Romantic castle
See the breathtaking clifftop ruins
of Dunluce Castle
Vertigo-inducing rope bridge over turbulent
waters at Carrick-A-Rede
BR_IR_230-231_Opener23.indd 231 23/10/09 14:32:58

232 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Classic Northern Ireland Key
Drive route
A drive along the Causeway Coast and through the Glens of
Antrim takes in spectacular scenery, from dramatic coastal
cliffs and unspoiled beaches and bays to romantic glens, hillside
Rathlin
waterfalls and forest parks. This tour begins just north of Belfast GIANT’S Rathlin
Island
Island
GIANT’S
and follows a dramatic and breathtaking coastal route CAUSEWAY CARRICK-A-REDE
CARRICK-A-REDE
CAUSEWAY
ROPE BRIDGE
DUNLUCE
dotted with pretty villages, historic castles and Strooveove DUNLUCE Ballintoy ROPE BRIDGE
Stro
Ballintoy
CASTLE
Greencastle
stunning natural wonders to discover, including Moville Greencastle PORTSTEWART CASTLE BALLYCASTLE
PORTSTEWART
BALLYCASTLE
Moville
Bushmills
the Giant’s Causeway, a place steeped in Bushmills Murlough Bay
Murlough Bay
OLD BUSHMILLS
OLD BUSHMILLS
DOWNHILL DEMESNE
TORR HEAD
PORTRUSH
myth and legend. At the southern end DOWNHILL DEMESNE PORTRUSH DISTILLERY Ballyvoyvoy TORR HEAD
DISTILLERY
Bally
Articlave
Carrowreagh
Loughran
it turns inland through the lovely Carrowkeel HEZLETT HOUSE Articlave Coleraine Derryleighan Carrowreagh Loughran
HEZLETT HOUSE
Carrowkeel
Derryleighan
Coleraine
Lough Foyl
Sperrin Mountains to reach Lough Foyle e Eargantea Ballybogy Dervock Armoy
Ballybogy
Dervock
Armoy
Eargantea
CUSHENDUN
Mascosquin
tranquil Lough Neagh, at the Mu Mu Crindle Mascosquin Knocknacarry CUSHENDUN
Crindle
Knocknacarry
Dirtagh
heart of Northern Ireland. Dirtagh Ballymoney Drumdallagh
Ballymoney
Drumdallagh
City of D
Ballykelly
CUSHENDALL
Bridgend City of Derryerry Ballykelly Limavady Milltown M o CUSHENDALL
Bridgend
Limavady
Milltown
M
Red Bay
o
Eglinton Ringsend Loughguile u u Red Bay
Eglinton
Loughguile
Ringsend
Ardreagh
DERRY (Londonderry)
DERRY (Londonderry) Roe Roe Ardreagh Dunloy n n WATERFOOT
Dunloy
WATERFOOT
Drumahoe
Fin
Drumahoe Finvoyvoy t t
Drumadu
GLENARIFF FOREST PARK
Newtown
Oghill Oghill Drumadu Garv Bann Bann Newtown a a GLENARIFF FOREST PARK
Crommelin
New New Garvaghagh Crommelin i i
Carnlough
St Johnstown Buildings DERR YY Raharkin n n Carnlough
St Johnstown
Buildings
DERR
Raharkin
Clogh Clogh
Foyle Foyle Claudy Kilrea Kilrea Islandtown Cullinane Glenarm
s
s
Glenarm

Cullinane

Claudy
Dungiven
GLENARM
Cullion
Cullion Dungiven Islandtown o o GLENARM
ANTRIM
f
f
Convoy
Convoy Feeny Feeny ANTRIM
Swatr
Teeshan
Ballymagorry Dunnamanagh Swatraghagh Teeshan A A The Sheddings Cairnyan,
Ballymagorry
Cairnyan,
The Sheddings
Dunnamanagh
Fleetwood,
Ballygally
Artigar
Artigarvanvan n n Ballygally Fleetwood,
Portglenone
Inishrush
Li ord
Li ord Park Park Inishrush Portglenone t t Troon Troon
S p e r r i n M o u n t a
Strabane
CARNFUNNOCK
Castle nn
Killygordon Castle nn Strabane Maghera Ballymena r r i CARNFUNNOCK
Killygordon
Ballymena
Maghera
i
COUNTRY PARK
Lisnamusk
Lisnamusk
Gulladu
Sawel Mountain
Sawel Mountain
Sion Mills
Sion Mills S p e r r i n M o u n t a i n s i n s Gulladu Ahogill m m COUNTRY PARK
Ahogill
Ligfordrum
683m
Ligfordrum 683m Moneyneany Moor elds Larne Larne
Moneyneany
Moor elds
Bellaghy
Bellaghy
Draperstown
Larne Lough
Sperrin
Plumbridge
Plumbridge Cranagh Sperrin Draperstown Castledawsonson Kells Kells Glynn Glynn Larne Lough
Cranagh
Castledaw
Moneyglass
Ardstraw
Glenoe
Ardstraw Moneyglass Main Main Glenoe Isle Isle
Labby Labby Desertmartin Magee
Desertmartin
Magee
Castlederg
Castlederg Toome Randalstown Ballynure
Toome
Ballynure
Randalstown
Magherafelt
Ballycarry
Newtownstewart Mourne Mourne Gortin Rousky Magherafelt Ballyclare Ballycarry
Rousky
Newtownstewart
Gortin
Ballyclare
Broughderg
SPERRIN
Whitehead
Killen Killen SPERRIN Broughderg Doagh Whitehead
Doagh
Drumlegagh
Ballyronan
MOUNTAINS
Stranr
Killeter
Killeter Drumlegagh Lislap Lislap MOUNTAINS Greencastle Moneymore Ballyronan CARRICKFERGUS Stranraer, aer,
CARRICKFERGUS
Greencastle
Moneymore
Isle of Man,
Antrim
ULSTER AMERICANAN Mullaghcarn The Loup Antrim Eden Eden Isle of Man,
ULSTER AMERIC
Mullaghcarn
The Loup
Liverpool
Liverpool
FOLK PARK 542m Creggan Creeve Templepatrick Mossley
542m
FOLK PARK
Mossley
Creeve
Templepatrick
Creggan
Belfast Lough
Scraghy
Scraghy Mountjoytjoy Mount eld LOUGH
LOUGH
Moun
Mount eld
Greenisland
Belfast
Drumquin
Glengor
Drumquin Cookstown CoaCoa NEAGHGH Belfast Glengormlymly Greenisland Belfast Lough
Cookstown
NEA
Bangor
International
Omagh International Bangor
Omagh
Newtownabbey
Drumakilly
Drumakilly Newtownabbey
Nutts Corner
Carrickmore
Dooish
Dooish Carrickmore Arboe Arboe Nutts Corner Holywoodood
Holyw
TYRONE Pomeroy Tullaghog Crumlin Dundrod Belfast City
TYRONE
Pomeroy
Crumlin
Belfast City
Dundrod
Tullaghog
Legionel
Clanabogan
Clanabogan Glenavy Legionel
Glenavy
Dundonald
Dundonald
Belfast
Belfast
ACTIVITIES
Take a walk high above the sea across
the Carrick-A-Rede rope bridge
Sample Irish whiskey and learn the
secrets of how it is made, at the Old
Bushmills Distillery
Stroll through centuries of history
along the walls of Derry
Take a boat trip on the calm waters of Above Far-reaching views and sheer cliffs add drama to the coastline around the Giant’s
lovely Lough Neagh Causeway, Co Antrim, see p238
BR_IR_232-233_Itinerary23.indd 232 30/08/2012 10:34
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Tour Map Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 03rd March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
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DRIVE 23: Classic Northern Ireland 233


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Start/finish: Carrickfergus to
Lough Neagh.
0 kilometres 10
Number of days: 5, allowing half a
Rathlin 0 miles 10
Rathlin
Island
GIANT’S
GIANT’S Island day at the Giant’s Causeway.
CAUSEWAY
CARRICK-A-REDE
CAUSEWAY CARRICK-A-REDE
ROPE BRIDGE
DUNLUCE
Strooveove DUNLUCE Ballintoy ROPE BRIDGE Distance: Approx. 340 km (210 miles).
Stro
Ballintoy
CASTLE
Greencastle CASTLE Road conditions: Roads are generally
Greencastle
BALLYCASTLE
PORTSTEWART
Moville PORTSTEWART BALLYCASTLE
Moville
Bushmills
Bushmills Murlough Bay in good condition, although some
Murlough Bay
OLD BUSHMILLS
OLD BUSHMILLS mountain and glen roads may be
DOWNHILL DEMESNE PORTRUSH DISTILLERY Ballyvoyvoy TORR HEAD impassable in winter.
DOWNHILL DEMESNE
TORR HEAD
PORTRUSH
DISTILLERY
Bally
Articlave
Carrowreagh
Loughran
HEZLETT HOUSE
Carrowkeel
Carrowkeel HEZLETT HOUSE Articlave Coleraine Derryleighan Carrowreagh Loughran
Derryleighan
Lough Foyle e Eargantea Ballybogy Dervock Armoy When to go: Spring, summer and
Coleraine
Lough Foyl
Ballybogy
Dervock
Armoy
Eargantea
CUSHENDUN
Mascosquin
Mu Mu Crindle Mascosquin Knocknacarry CUSHENDUN autumn offer the best weather, and
Crindle
most visitor attractions are open. The
Knocknacarry
Dirtagh
Dirtagh
Ballymoney
Drumdallagh
City of D
City of Derryerry Ballykelly Ballymoney Drumdallagh M M weather is always changeable, so be
Ballykelly
CUSHENDALL
Bridgend Limavady Milltown o o CUSHENDALL prepared for rain at any time of year.
Bridgend
Limavady
Milltown
Red Bay
Eglinton
Eglinton Ringsend Loughguile u u Red Bay
Loughguile
Ringsend
Ardreagh
DERRY (Londonderry) Roe Roe Ardreagh Dunloy n n WATERFOOT Opening times: Most shops and
DERRY (Londonderry)
Dunloy
WATERFOOT
Drumahoe
Fin
Drumahoe Finvoyvoy t t attractions open 9 or 10am–5 or 6pm.
Newtown
GLENARIFF FOREST PARK
Drumadu
Oghill Oghill Drumadu Garv Bann Bann Newtown a a GLENARIFF FOREST PARK
Crommelin
New New Garvaghagh Crommelin i i Shops open Mon–Sat; in large towns
St Johnstown
St Johnstown Buildings DERR YY Raharkin n n Carnlough also 12–6pm on Sun. Convenience
Carnlough
Buildings
DERR
Raharkin
Clogh Clogh
s
s
Foyle Foyle Claudy Kilrea Kilrea Islandtown Cullinane Glenarm stores in villages open 8am until late.
Glenarm
Cullinane


Claudy
Dungiven
GLENARM
Cullion
Cullion Dungiven Islandtown o o GLENARM
ANTRIM
f
f
Convoy Feeny Feeny ANTRIM Main market days: Coleraine:
Convoy
Swatr
Ballymagorry Dunnamanagh Swatraghagh Teeshan A A The Sheddings Cairnyan, second Sat of month; Limavady: Fri;
Ballymagorry
Teeshan
Cairnyan,
Dunnamanagh
The Sheddings
Fleetwood,
Ballygally
Artigarvanvan n n Ballygally Fleetwood, Derry: first Sat of month; Dungannon:
Artigar
Portglenone
Li ord Park Park Inishrush Portglenone t t Troon Troon
Li ord
Inishrush
S p e r r i n M o u n t a
Strabane
CARNFUNNOCK
Castle nn
Killygordon Castle nn Strabane Maghera Ballymena r r i CARNFUNNOCK first Sat of month; Strabane: last Sat
Killygordon
Ballymena
Maghera
i
COUNTRY PARK
Lisnamusk
Lisnamusk
Sawel Mountain
Gulladu
Sawel Mountain
Sion Mills
Sion Mills S p e r r i n M o u n t a i n s i n s Gulladu Ahogill m m COUNTRY PARK of month.
Ahogill
Ligfordrum
683m
Ligfordrum 683m Moneyneany Moor elds Larne Larne Shopping: Coleraine’s Causeway
Moneyneany
Moor elds
Bellaghy
Bellaghy
Draperstown
Larne Lough
Sperrin
Plumbridge
Plumbridge Cranagh Sperrin Draperstown Castledawsonson Kells Kells Glynn Glynn Larne Lough Speciality Market (see above) is a
Cranagh
Castledaw
Ardstraw
Moneyglass
Glenoe
Ardstraw Moneyglass Main Main Glenoe Isle Isle vibrant gathering of artists and
Desertmartin
Labby Labby Desertmartin Magee
Magee
Castlederg
Castlederg Toome Randalstown Ballynure craftspeople, while Derry has shops
Toome
Ballynure
Randalstown
Magherafelt
Ballycarry
Newtownstewart Mourne Mourne Gortin Rousky Magherafelt Ballyclare Ballycarry selling traditional Irish linen, crystal
Newtownstewart
Rousky
Gortin
Ballyclare
Broughderg
SPERRIN
Whitehead
Killen Killen SPERRIN Broughderg Doagh Whitehead
Doagh
Ballyronan
Drumlegagh
MOUNTAINS
Stranr
Killeter
Killeter Drumlegagh Lislap Lislap MOUNTAINS Greencastle Moneymore Ballyronan CARRICKFERGUS Stranraer, aer, and tweeds.
CARRICKFERGUS
Greencastle
Moneymore
Isle of Man,
ULSTER AMERICANAN Mullaghcarn The Loup Antrim Eden Eden Isle of Man,
Antrim
ULSTER AMERIC
Mullaghcarn
The Loup
Liverpool
Liverpool
Templepatrick
Mossley
FOLK PARK 542m Creggan Creeve Templepatrick Mossley Main festivals: Waterfoot (Glenariff):
542m
FOLK PARK
Creeve
Creggan
Belfast Lough
Scraghy
Scraghy Mountjoytjoy Mount eld LOUGH Féis of the Glens, Jul; Ballycastle: Aul
LOUGH
Moun
Mount eld
Greenisland
Belfast
Glengor
Drumquin Cookstown CoaCoa NEAGHGH Belfast Glengormlymly Greenisland Belfast Lough Lammas Fair, Aug; Derry: Jazz and Big
Cookstown
Drumquin
NEA
Bangor
International
Omagh International Bangor
Omagh
Newtownabbey
Drumakilly Newtownabbey Band Festival, Apr/May; Foyle Film
Drumakilly
Nutts Corner
Carrickmore
Dooish
Dooish Carrickmore Arboe Arboe Nutts Corner Holywoodood
Holyw
TYRONE
TYRONE Pomeroy Tullaghog Crumlin Dundrod Belfast City Festival, Nov; Omagh: Appalachian &
Pomeroy
Crumlin
Dundrod
Belfast City
Tullaghog
Legionel
Clanabogan
Glenavy
Clanabogan Glenavy Legionel Bluegrass Festival, Sep.
Dundonald
Dundonald
Belfast
Belfast
DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Bird watchers should pack a picnic
and take the ferry from Ballycastle to
Rathlin Island to see the puffin colony.
Lovers of nature and history could
easily spend a day exploring Glenarm
and Glenariff, the “Queen” of the Glens
of Antrim. For full details, see p241.
Left Fishing vessels moored at the harbour at
Carnlough, Glenarm, see p235
BR_IR_232-233_Itinerary23.indd 233 30/08/2012 10:34

234 BACK ROADS IRELAND


1 Carrickfergus ha (470 acres) filled with woods,
Co Antrim gardens and walking trails, parts of
The oldest city in County Antrim, which are set on the coastal shore.
predating even Belfast, of which it is Many of the estate’s original features,
now almost a district, Carrickfergus is such as the walled garden and the
a pretty seaside town set on Belfast ice house, remain. There are plenty
Lough. Dominating the waterfront is of activities including a mini-golf
Carrickfergus Castle (open daily), a course, a laser clay pigeon shooting
striking Norman edifice built for range, a miniature railway, a remote-
defence in the 12th century and control boating lake and remote-
used for this purpose as recently as control truck course, an adventure
World War II. It is possible to take a playground and a maze. There are
guided tour of the castle, the best- also picnic areas and a café.
preserved of its kind in Northern ª Continue along the A2 coastal road
Ireland, and from its ramparts there through Ballygally and Milltown to
Above Sturdy walls of Carrickfergus Castle, are good views of the harbour and Glenarm village, gateway to Glenarm.
overlooking the harbour and Belfast Lough marina and across Belfast Lough. Follow its main street to the glen.
Nearby on Antrim Street is the
Carrickfergus Museum and Civic
Centre (open daily) with exhibitions
on local history. Carrickfergus is
known worldwide as the subject of
a haunting Irish ballad that begins,
“I wish I was in Carrickfergus”.
ª Follow the A2 north to reach the
Causeway Coastal Route. There are
great sea views en route to Whitehead;
the road then follows the western
shore of Larne Lough. After the port
town of Larne itself, the best of the
Causeway Coastal Route begins, with
spectacular cliffs and sea views over
WHERE TO STAY
to Scotland. Continue on the A2,
passing through Black Cave tunnel
AROUND CARNFUNNOCK
COUNTRY PARK and along Drains Bay. The entrance to Above The Gothic stone Barbican Gate, the main
Carnfunnock Country Park is just after entrance to Glenarm Castle
Ballygally Castle Hotel moderate the bay, on the left. Drive through the
Facing the sandy beaches of Ballygally entrance (marked with a pyramid) 3 Glenarm
Bay, 3 km (2 miles) on the A2 coastal
road from the country park, this castle and park in the car park. Co Antrim
dates back to 1625 and reputedly even This lovely forested glen stretches
has its own friendly ghost. Original 2 Carnfunnock Country Park along the Glenarm river, which is fed
beamed ceilings and period rooms Drains Bay, BT40 2QG; Co Antrim by streams gushing down from the
add to the charm and character.
Causeway Coastal Route, Ballygally, A perfect place for families to enjoy, glen. The Glenarm Scenic Route runs
BT40 2QZ; 028 2858 1066; www. Carnfunnock Country Park (open from the village of Glenarm, up the
hastingshotels.com daily) is a lovely country park of 190 B97 through the glen itself, back down
AROUND GLENARM Below The Glenarm river skirting the walls of noble Glenarm Castle, seat of the Earls of Antrim
The Londonderry Arms Hotel
moderate
This is a friendly, historic hotel in the
village of Carnlough (5 km/3 miles
on the A2 from Glenarm) at the foot
of Glencoy, restored to its original
Georgian style by the current owner.
Rooms are very comfortable, and are
individually furnished. There is a choice
of fine dining or relaxed bistro food
(see Eat and Drink, opposite). Curiously,
Sir Winston Churchill once owned the
Londonderry Arms.
20 Harbour Road, Carnlough,
BT44 0EU; 028 2888 5255;
www.glensofantrim.com


234-241_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 234 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
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DRIVE 23: Classic Northern Ireland 235









EAT AND DRINK
AROUND CARNFUNNOCK
COUNTRY PARK
Garden Restaurant in Antrim
moderate
The restaurant at the Ballygally Castle
Hotel is the most attractive place for a
meal in these parts. It is located inside
the castle walls and looks out over the
gardens. The chefs pride themselves
on their use of local produce. A set
menu is offered at lunch, while in the
evening guests can choose between
Above View over the beautiful forested slopes of Glenariff towards the sea table d’hôte or bistro menus. An
informal lunch menu is also available
in the hotel bar.
to the coast through the next glen, 5 Glenariff Forest Park Causeway Coastal Route, Ballygally,
Glencoy, and along the A42 to BT44 0QX; Co Antrim BT40 2QZ; 028 2858 1066;
Carnlough. Along the way is Gothic This stunning forest park (open daily) www.hastingshotels.com
Glenarm Castle, seat of the Earls of in the upper part of the glen, has AROUND GLENARM
Antrim. Its extensive grounds include many scenic, circular, waymarked Frances Anne and Tapestry
a delightful 18th-century Walled trails and walks that lead through Restaurant expensive
Garden (open May–Sep; closed Tue) and mixed woodlands, along the Inver The award-winning cuisine at this
tea rooms in the old Mushroom and Glenariff rivers, past waterfalls elegant restaurant in the Londonderry
House. The Walled Garden is especially and to viewpoints with panoramic Arms Hotel focuses on ingredients
lovely in spring when a sea of spring views down the mountainsides and sourced from the Glens of Antrim, such
as wild salmon. Fine wines and whiskies
bulbs and clouds of apple and pear all the way to the Mull of Kintyre in are also on offer. For those looking for
blossom are a breathtaking sight. Scotland. Especially well worth something more relaxed, the hotel’s
ª Continue on the A2 via Carnlough seeing are two of the park’s largest welcoming Coach House Bistro
to Waterfoot. and most spectacular waterfalls, (moderate) serves up good-quality pub
Ess na Larach, which has a viewing- favourites including various steaks,
seared salmon and confit of duck.
4 Waterfoot point bridge, and Ess na Crub. 20 Harbour Road, Carnlough, BT44 0EU;
Co Antrim ª Leaving the Forest Park, turn left 028 2888 5255; www.glensofantrim.com
Waterfoot (also known as Glenariff), onto the A43, then right onto the B14
the village at the mouth of Glenariff, along the glen of Glenballyeamon Below left St Patrick’s Church, Glenarm
is set on Red Bay, so-named for its to Cushendall. Below Pretty fishing village of Carnlough
sandstone cliffs and the resulting
shade of the sand on its long stretch
of beach. Glenariff is known as the
“Queen of the Nine Glens of Antrim”.
It is a U-shaped valley bounded on
either side by precipitous hills, and
the landscape really is spectacular,
with everything from seashores and
cliffs to dense forest and waterfalls.
The Glenariff Forest Park Scenic
Route, along which the route runs,
is typical of the wonderful glen
scenery that is a highlight of
driving in Antrim.
ª At the end of Waterfoot village,
turn left at the T-junction onto the
A43, signposted for Glenariff Forest
Park. Follow this road; the entrance
to the forest park is on the left.




234-241_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 235 11/09/17 12:30 pm

236 BACK ROADS IRELAND









GETTING TO RATHLIN ISLAND
Rathlin Island Ferries depart
frequently from Ballycastle in summer
for the short crossing to the island.
Advance booking is advised.
Ballycastle Ferry Terminal, 8 Bayview
Road, Ballycastle; 028 2076 9299;
www.rathlinballycastleferry.com
Above Wild and rocky shoreline near the popular seaside resort of Ballycastle
WHERE TO STAY
Glens of Antrim 7 Cushendun
BALLYCASTLE The coastline of Antrim is marked Co Antrim
This tiny, picturesque fishing village
by nine glens, each full of natural
Colliers Hall inexpensive wonders such as rivers, waterfalls is known for its quaint, whitewashed
This guesthouse offers both B&B-style and forests. The nine are Glenarm,
and self-catering accommodation in Glencloy, Glencorp, Glendun, houses built in Cornish style. It was
an old converted stone barn. Glenballyeamon, Glenaan, Glenshek, designed for Lord Cushendun by the
50 Cushendall Road; 028 2076 2531; Glentaisie and Glenariff. The last is architect Clough Williams-Ellis, best
www.colliershallaccommodation.com known for his Italianate town of
known as the “Queen of the Glens”
AROUND BALLYCASTLE because of its particular majesty Portmeirion in Wales. The waterfront
and beautiful waterfalls. The glens
Manor House inexpensive–moderate are full of myths, legends and and sheltered harbour are perfect
This 18th-century Georgian house – stories of fairies, which were once for a stroll. On a clear day there are
a ferry ride away from the mainland – a large part of local folklore. superb views across to Scotland.
overlooks the sheltered harbour at ª Take the Torr Road, following signs
Rathlin Island, and every room has for Torr Head. Turn right for Torr Head.
a sea view. Local seafood is a speciality 6 Cushendall
of the restaurant.
Rathlin Island, BT54 6RT; 028 0046 Co Antrim
3964; www.manorhouserathlin.com; Cushendall is an attractive little
closed Mon and Tue conservation village and resort.
Whitepark House Much of the activity centres on the
inexpensive–moderate waterfront, with its pier and sailing
This is a beautiful guesthouse set on club. There is a golf course and
picturesque Whitepark Bay, with a beach, and the ruined Layde Church
friendly welcome and personal service.
150 Whitepark Road, Ballintoy, has some lovely Celtic crosses. Caves
BT54 6NH; 028 2073 1482; in nearby Tiveragh Hill are said to be
www.whiteparkhouse.com occupied by the “little people”.
ª Follow the A2 north, then turn
right onto the B92 (also signed to
Below Torr Head, with its dramatic landscape Torr Head Scenic Route) through Above Traditional shopfront in the pretty
and stunning sea views Knocknacarry and on to Cushendun. village of Cushendall
8 Torr Head
Co Antrim
The road to Torr Head ascends steeply
and there are some spectacular
coastal views over the North Channel
to the Mull of Kintyre in Scotland,
north to Rathlin Island and down
over stunning Murlough Bay. The
ruined buildings below Torr Head
used to be customs houses and a
lookout station that recorded the
passage of transatlantic ships. The
small lane down to Murlough Bay
from Torr Head passes a megalithic




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DRIVE 23: Classic Northern Ireland 237


tomb and a group of old radio masts of glens Glenshesk and Glentaisie –
and outbuildings that were once a has a small heritage trail taking in
transmission and listening station for churches, monuments and the ruins
the Royal Air Force. of a Franciscan friary.
ª Leaving Torr Head or Murlough Bay, ª Take the B15 coastal road west to
turn right onto Torr Road and, on Carrick-A-Rede Rope Bridge.
reaching the village of Ballyvoy, turn
right onto the A2 for Ballycastle. Park 0 Carrick-A-Rede
on the seafront in Ballycastle. Rope Bridge
BT54 6LS; Co Antrim
The famous Carrick-A-Rede Rope
Bridge (open Mar–Oct: daily, weather
permitting) runs across a chasm 20 m
(66 ft) wide and 23 m (75 ft) deep.
It was originally used as a working
bridge enabling salmon fishermen to
cross to the small rock outcrop, but
nowadays it is primarily a tourist Above The hair-raising rope-bridge crossing at
attraction, as much for the beauty of Carrick-A-Rede
the site as for the challenge of crossing
the wobbly bridge itself. Arrive early
in peak season to avoid queues, and
wear sensible footwear and warm
clothes to cross the bridge. The bay
of Larrybane, below, was used as a
Above The lookout station at Torr Head limestone quarry for much of the
1950s, and visitors can walk to
9 Ballycastle the old quarry area and view the
Co Antrim fine stalactite cave in the cliffs. EAT AND DRINK
Ballycastle is a busy market town and ª From Carrick-A-Rede, turn right
a popular seaside resort. From the onto the B15. As a short detour, turn CUSHENDALL
harbour here, ferries leave for the right for Whitepark Bay, a pristine McCollam’s Bar inexpensive
40-minute crossing to Rathlin Island. crescent-shaped beach, sheltered This is a lively pub with traditional
It is in a cave on the island that, in below cliffs and backed by sand dunes music and singing every weekend,
1306, the fugitive Robert the Bruce (strong currents make it unsuitable and impromptu music sessions on
other nights, especially in summer.
is said to have seen the struggling for swimming). Returning to the B15, A wide range of classic and inventive
spider that prompted him to “try go through Ballintoy and turn right dishes are served in the friendly first-
again” and return to win Scottish onto the A2, signed to Bushmills. floor restaurant.
independence from the English. Then turn right onto the B146 for Upstairs at Joe’s, 23 Mill Street,
BT44 0RR; 028 2177 1992 (bar);
Scattered with ancient ruins, the the Giant’s Causeway. There is paid 028 2177 2630 (restaurant);
island is now home to a puffin parking next to the Visitor Centre, www.mccollamsbar.com
colony. Ballycastle – at the head although the site itself is free.
CUSHENDUN
Mary McBride’s Bar inexpensive
This tiny bar is big on character and
atmosphere. Try one of the traditional
dishes and, on a Saturday, don’t miss
the live music session.
2 Main St, BT44 0PH; 028 2176 1511
BALLYCASTLE
Central Wine Bar inexpensive
Come to this family-run restaurant
for a great evening out. The menu
changes according to the season.
12 Ann Street; 028 2076 3877;
www.centralwinebar.com
Cellar Restaurant moderate
This is a cosy restaurant in the seaside
town of Ballycastle. Fresh seafood such
as Ballycastle lobster is a speciality.
11B The Diamond, BT54 6AW; 028 2076
Above The jagged, quarried limestone cliffs, concealing fine stalactite caves, of Larrybane 3037; www.cellarballycastle.com
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


234-241_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 237 11/09/17 12:30 pm

238 BACK ROADS IRELAND

q Giant’s Causeway
BT57 8SU; Co Antrim
This natural geological phenomenon consists of around 40,000
polygonal basalt columns, forming a huge causeway that juts out
into the sea. Scientists believe that the columns were created some
60 million years ago by volcanic activity. However, local legend tells
it better, with the story that they were created by the Irish giant,
Finn McCool, who was fighting a rival Scottish giant, Benandonner.
McCool is said to have created a pathway of stepping stones from
Ireland to Scotland, so he could walk across the sea to confront his
rival. There are similar stones on the island of Staffa in the Hebrides.
A two-hour walking tour made while sitting in the Wishing
From the car park and Visitor Centre Chair 8 in the Middle Causeway is
1, follow the cliff path to the right. said to come true. Return up the
There are great views as the path path to the Visitor Centre. From
ascends. Descend the Shepherd’s here there is a good view of the
Steps 2 carefully (there are 162 in hunched form of the Giant’s Granny
Above Giant’s Causeway on a stormy day total, and they are steep). At the 9. Continue past Port Ganny to
Below right The remarkable basalt “stepping bottom, follow the path towards the see the Camel 0, which “sits” in
stones” of the Causeway Giant’s Organ 3, an impressive Portnaboe, before heading back
set of columns in the cliff face, that to the Visitor Centre.
resemble 12-m (39-ft) organ pipes. ª From the car park, turn right
VISITING GIANT’S CAUSEWAY Walk past the Organ towards the on the B146, then turn right again
Amphitheatre 4. On turning the onto the A2. Drive through Bushmills
Giant’s Causeway Visitor Centre corner into the Amphitheatre, to the Distillery.
A shuttle bus runs from the Centre to the the Giant’s Eyes 5 are on the right –
rock formations, 1 km (half a mile) away. eye-shaped sockets in the red iron
Wear appropriate shoes and raincoats, as
it can be wet and slippery on the stones. ore layer, where basalt boulders have
44 Causeway Road, BT57 8SU; 028 2073 fallen out. Turn and follow the path
1855; www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ back past the Organ, then take
giantscauseway the path that descends towards the
WHERE TO STAY Causeway itself. Look out for the
Giant’s Boot 6 rock on the shore
GIANT’S CAUSEWAY of Port Noffer to the right. Before
The Smuggler’s Inn inexpensive passing through the Giant’s Gate 7,
This is a small, family-run hotel with turn and look back for a view of
great sea views, ideally situated down the Giant’s Chimney Tops, chimney-
the road from the Giant’s Causeway. stack-like columns protruding from
There is also a restaurant. a headland to the east. Through
306 Whitepark Road, BT57 8SL; 028 2073
1577; www.smugglersinnireland.com the Gate are the main “stepping
stone” rock formations. Any wish
BUSHMILLS
The Bushmills Inn moderate
This cosy hotel, with open peat fires
Giant’s
and gas lighting, describes itself as “a Chimney Tops
living museum of Ulster hospitality”. 0 metres 800 Amphitheatre
However, every modern luxury is
also present in the charming rooms. 0 yards 800 Giant’s Eyes
The restaurant is excellent, too.
9 Dunluce Road, BT57 8QG; 028 2073 Giant’s Boot Giant’s Organ
3000; www.bushmillsinn.com Wishing Chair
Shepherd’s Steps
AROUND BUSHMILLS Giant’s Granny Giant’s Gate
Bayview Hotel moderate
This quiet hotel in the small harbour Camel
village of Portballintrae, just north of
Bushmills, overlooks the sea and is a
great base for exploring the area.
2 Bayhead Road, Portballintrae, Visitor Centre
BT57 8RT; 028 2073 4100;
www.bayviewhotelni.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £100; moderate, £100–£200; expensive, over £200

234-241_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 238 13/10/17 1:18 pm
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DRIVE 23: Classic Northern Ireland 239


w Old Bushmills Distillery for one car. If it is empty, park and cross
BT57 8XH; Co Antrim the road. Look back towards Dunluce
Ireland’s oldest whiskey distillery, the to see the Giant’s Head, a huge face
Old Bushmills Distillery (open daily), eroded into the cliffs. At Portrush, turn
was founded in 1608 when a royal right onto Causeway Street and drive
licence was granted by King James I to Ramore Head for more sea views.
to Sir Thomas Phillips to distil uisce
beatha (Irish for “water of life”), or r Portrush
whiskey as it is now known. Old Co Antrim
Bushmills is still a fully operational Portrush is a large seaside town and
distillery, where brands such as one of Northern Ireland’s most
Bushmills, Black Bush and Bushmills popular family holiday destinations.
Malt are made, using unpeated It gets very busy in the summer,
malted barley. Guided tours for especially on bank holiday weekends.
visitors explain the craft of Irish There are plenty of outdoor activities
whiskey-making, including the Irish and the beach is very good for
triple-distillation process, and surfing. Waterworld (open Jun–Sep:
looking at the warehouses full of daily), the water park on the seafront, Above Surfers enjoying the waves at Portrush
barrels. There’s a chance to taste the and other amusements provide Beach, a popular family holiday destination
product at the end of the tour. plenty of family entertainment.
ª Leave Bushmills on the A2, signed ª Continue on the A2 to Portstewart. EAT AND DRINK
for Portrush. Dunluce Castle is a short Follow signs for the Promenade, turn
distance along this road on the right. right onto Atlantic Circle and drive BUSHMILLS
along Kinora Terrace to Portstewart The Bushmills Inn moderate
Irish Whiskey Point and Harbour Hill, affording lovely The award-winning Taste of Ulster
Irish whiskey is made from three views over to the Inishowen Peninsula. restaurant at this hotel (see left) is
ingredients: barley, yeast and water. housed in its 17th-century stables,
The barley is milled to a grist, which t Portstewart overlooking a garden courtyard. The
is then steeped in Mash Tuns with Co Derry mix of traditional and new Irish cuisine
hot water, to produce fermentable Portstewart is another very busy might feature pan-fried peppered fillet
sugars. The addition of yeast converts of beef flamed in Bushmills whiskey.
Reservations advised.
these sugars into alcohol. The raw seaside holiday resort with a lengthy
spirit is then distilled in a pot still. beach and promenade. The long 9 Dunluce Road, BT57 8QG; 028 2073
3000; www.bushmillsinn.com
Irish whiskey is distilled three times, golden strand is the main focal point,
giving it its unique flavour. It is then popular with walkers and surfers. PORTRUSH
matured in oak casks. Bushmills is ª From Portstewart take the B185 in Ramore Wine Bar inexpensive
aged for five years in sherry and the direction of Coleraine but, at the The Ramore is a popular, reasonably
bourbon casks, which refines the priced wine bar – part of a complex
spirit and adds complexity, colour roundabout, take the A29 (second which includes a pasta restaurant
and more flavour, but some whiskies exit) for the Coleraine ring road. At below and Oriental restaurant above.
are aged for much longer, such as Greenmount Roundabout, take the The Harbour, BT56 8BN; 028 7082
Bushmills 21-Year-Old Malt. B201 (third exit) for Castlerock. Turn 4313; www.ramorerestaurant.com
left onto the A2. Turn right onto the
B119, Sea Road, signed for Castlerock.
e Dunluce Castle Hezlett House is on this road just Below Ruined Dunluce Castle, breathtakingly
BT57 8UY; Co Antrim before Castlerock village. perched on its rocky promontory
The romantic ruins of Dunluce Castle
(open daily) have a dramatic clifftop
setting, jutting out into the sea. A
short audiovisual presentation on
the history of the castle can be
viewed before exploring the ruins.
Most of the present castle building
dates from the 16th and 17th
centuries and there are breathtaking
(if scary) views down to the water
crashing onto the rocks far below.
ª Continue on the A2 towards
Portrush. From a car park on the right-
hand side there are sweeping coastal
views. After the following bend, there
is a space on the left just large enough




234-241_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 239 11/09/17 12:30 pm

240 BACK ROADS IRELAND

















Above Mussenden Temple, perched on the
clifftop Above centre Glenelly Valley in the y Hezlett House spectacular clifftop walks. Clinging
Sperrins Above right River Foyle in Derry BT51 4TW; Co Derry to the top of the cliffs, the
Pretty Hezlett House (open May–Jun & picturesque Mussenden Temple
Sep: Sat–Sun; Apr & Jul–Aug: Fri–Tue) is a (028 7084 8567 for opening details)
WHERE TO STAY picture-postcard traditional thatched was originally used as a library.
Dower House and farmyard owned Saved from collapsing over the edge
AROUND DOWNHILL DEMESNE and run by the National Trust. It is when the site was taken over by the
thought to be one of the oldest National Trust, it is now a popular
Downhill Hostel inexpensive
A friendly hostel in a lovely Victorian buildings in Northern Ireland, with wedding venue.
building with views over Downhill timber frames dating from 1690. ª Follow the road to Downhill and
beach to Donegal and good facilities. Visitors can take a guided tour of turn left here, just after the row of
Glenhassen Hall, 12 Mussenden Road, the simply furnished, Victorian-style buildings, for the Bishops Road Drive.
Downhill, Castlerock, BT51 4RP; 028
7084 9077; www.downhillhostel.com interior to learn more about life in There are spectacular elevated views
18th-century rural Ireland. There over Lough Foyle to the Inishowen
DERRY (LONDONDERRY) is also a small museum of historic Peninsula and, further along, to the
City Hotel inexpensive–moderate farm equipment. Sperrin Mountains. Continue on this
This large, 4-star hotel with a heated ª Return to the A2 and turn right. road, turning right onto the B201
pool overlooks the River Foyle. The entrance to the Downhill Estate is Windyhill Road and rejoining the A2
Queen’s Quay, BT48 7AS; 028 7136
5800; www.cityhotelderry.com on the right before the road begins to for Limavady. From here the road
descend down a hill. skirts the edge of Lough Foyle
Beech Hill Country House Hotel for part of the way to Derry. Park on
moderate
A charming and elegant hotel, set in the street or in one of two multi-storey
mature gardens southeast of Derry’s car parks at Quayside and Foyle Road.
city walls. Home cooking is a speciality.
32 Ardmore Road, BT47 3QP; 028 7134 i Derry (Londonderry)
9279; www.beech-hill.com
Co Derry
AROUND DERRY (LONDONDERRY) The city of Derry is a large,
Carrick Lodge inexpensive commercial city with a historic
Unassuming but welcoming walled centre lying along the banks
guesthouse with just two rooms – one of the River Foyle. The walls, forming
for families – overlooking meadows. an elevated walkway, date back to
138 Ballyquin Rd, Limavady, BT49 9EZ;
028 7776 7194; www.carrick-lodge.com the early 17th century. “The Troubles”
(see p246) had a huge impact on the
Roe Park Resort moderate
A spacious hotel and spa, this is the city of Derry and, like Belfast, it has
north coast’s only 4-star luxury resort. powerful murals representing the
Roe Park, Limavady (signed off A2); feelings of both sides of the
BT49 9LB; 028 7772 2222; Above Symbolic statue “Hands Across the Divide”, community. However, since the
www.radissonroepark.com in the city of Derry 1998 Good Friday Agreement that
AROUND LOUGH NEAGH launched the peace process, the city
Ardtara Hotel moderate u Downhill Demesne is more optimistic. The Museum of
A delightful 19th-century country BT51 4RP; Co Derry Free Derry (open Jul–Sep: daily; Apr–
house hotel, Ardtara is full of character The lovely Downhill Demesne (open Jun: Mon–Sat; Oct–Mar: Mon–Fri) tells
with lots of old-style charm and decor. daily) was built between 1774 and the story of the city’s turbulent history.
8 Gorteade Road, Upperlands, 1778 by the Earl of Bristol. Downhill ª From Derry, take the A5 towards
Maghera, BT46 5SA (on A29 north of
Desertmartin); 028 7964 4490; House itself is now a ruin, but its Omagh, following signs for the Ulster
www.ardtara.com gardens remain and there are American Folk Park.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £100; moderate, £100–£200; expensive, over £200
234-241_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 240 11/09/17 12:30 pm

DRIVE 23: Classic Northern Ireland 241


o Ulster American Folk Park p Sperrin Mountains
BT78 5QY; Co Tyrone Co Tyrone/Co Derry
This fascinating Folk Park (open Jul & The Sperrins are a designated Area
Aug: daily; Sep–May: Tue–Sun) tells the of Outstanding Natural Beauty and
story of emigration from Ireland to the largest mountain range in
America in the 18th and 19th Northern Ireland. There are
centuries. Visitors move around the numerous scenic drives, cycle trails
site through a series of traditional and walking routes in the area. The
buildings ranging from an Irish Gortin Glen Forest Park (open daily)
weaver’s cottage to a period covers part of the 1,500-ha (3,700-
American street, and there is even a acre) forest. The park has a range of
full-sized reconstruction of a delightful walking trails, including
19th-century sailing ship, of the kind one that follows the pretty Pollan
in which the emigrants crossed the Burn, as well as an 8-km (5-mile)
Atlantic, that can be boarded in Forest Drive that includes a number
order to experience the hardships of “vista parks” en route, where
they endured. In these authentic motorists can stop to enjoy Above Tranquil Lough Neagh, a popular spot
settings, costumed characters perform magnificent views. The coniferous for boat trips and bird-watching
traditional crafts and go about their woods are home to plenty of wildlife
daily routine, bringing the past to life, including red squirrels and Sika deer.
while tours and exhibitions provide ª Turn right out of the Park on the
fascinating background information. B48 to Gortin and then Plumbridge.
ª Leaving the Park, turn left onto the Turn right at Plumbridge onto the B47,
A5 south, then left onto Gortnagarn passing through the Glenelley Valley.
Road and left again onto the B48. At Draperstown, turn right onto the
The entrance to the Gortin Glen Forest B40 for Magherafelt and, from there, EAT AND DRINK IN DERRY
Park is on the right hand side. To reach head south on the B160 to Ballyronan (LONDONDERRY)
the Forest Drive, drive through the car village on the shores of Lough Neagh. Browns Restaurant
park and follow the signs. inexpensive–moderate
a Lough Neagh A smart, contemporary restaurant,
Co Derry popular for its consistently great
Lough Neagh, in the very centre of cooking and stylish atmosphere.
Northern Ireland, is the third-largest 1 Bond’s Hill, Waterside, BT47 6DW; 028
7134 5180; www.brownsrestaurant.com
lake in Europe, and five of the six
counties border it. It is a popular Custom House moderate
place for bird-watching (around This landmark 19th-century building
is now a fine-dining establishment
1,000 whooper swans settle around serving mouthwatering dishes such
the lake in winter) and fishing, and as whiskey-cured salmon and pan-
there are many visitor attractions all seared monkfish.
around the lough. Boat trips run from Custom House St, BT48 7AS; 028 7137
3366; www.customhouserestaurant.com
Ballyronan Marina to sites of interest
around the lake, such as the beautiful La Sosta Ristorante moderate
Celtic High Cross at Ardboe, while an A buzzy, authentic, family-run Italian
restaurant serving delicious food.
evening cruise with live folk music Friendly service.
Above Pennsylvania log farmhouse at the Ulster offers the chance to see the sun set 45/a Carlisle Road, BT48 6JJ; 028 7137
American Folk Park over the Sperrins. 4817; www.lasostaderry.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS not picnic weather there is a pub its delightful gardens and tea
Glenarm and Ballycastle are ideal and a restaurant (the Manor House, room. Then drive down Glencoy
bases to see rich birdlife and visit see p236) on the island. before heading back up along the
lovely glens. coast to Waterfoot (Glenariff village)
Only island residents can bring cars to
A trip to puffin island the island. Leave the car at the ferry for Glenariff 4and the lovely
woodland walking trails of Glenariff
Take the ferry (40 mins, booking terminal or seafront in Ballycastle. Forest Park 5.
essential) from Ballycastle 9 to A day in the glens
Rathlin Island – bring a picnic and Combine several lovely glens in a Head south on the A2 to Glenariff
explore this tranquil haven for birds day’s tour, starting at Glenarm 3, Glen, and then from here follow the
and other wildlife. Puffins are in pausing to visit Glenarm Castle with drive’s instructions to Glenariff
residence from April to August. If it’s Forest Park.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–£50; expensive, over £50


234-241_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 241 11/09/17 12:30 pm

BR_IR_242-243_Opener24.indd 242 23/10/09 14:33:30
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The Land of
St Patrick
Belfast to the
Mountains of
Mourne
Highlights
• Buzzing Belfast
Discover the historic Titanic Quarter,
the colourful Cathedral Quarter and
the vibrant Queen’s Quarter
• Outstanding gardens
Stroll through beautiful Mount
Stewart Gardens, laid out by Lady
Londonderry in the 1920s
• Coastal wildlife
Explore the myriad small bays and
inlets at Strangford Lough, rich in
wildfowl and marine life
• Majestic mountains
Head through the high passes of the
Mountains of Mourne, pausing near
the Spelga Dam for superb views
Rural scene below the magnificent Mountains
of Mourne in the south of County Down
BR_IR_242-243_Opener24.indd 243 23/10/09 14:33:33

244 BACK ROADS IRELAND

The Land of St Patrick Stranraer,Stranraer,
Isle of Man,Isle of Man,
LiverpoolLiverpool
With Strangford Lough at its centre and the open sea to the east, County CarrickfergusCarrickfergus
B e l f a s t L o u g
Down has more than 320 km (200 miles) of coastline, with good beaches GreenislandGreenisland B e l f a s t L o u g h h
and nature reserves to enjoy. In the south of the county, the magnificent GlengormlyGlengormly
ULSTER FOLK ANDULSTER FOLK AND
Mountains of Mourne dominate the horizon. The county is also rich in Newtown-Newtown- TRANSPORT MUSEUM CrawfordsburnCrawfordsburn GroomsportGroomsport
TRANSPORT MUSEUM
abbeyabbey
historic monuments and stately homes, while St Patrick’s Trail traces the BelfastBelfast BangorBangor CopelandCopeland
IslandIsland
footsteps of Ireland’s patron saint. From the hustle and bustle of Belfast CityCity DonaghadeeDonaghadee
in Co Antrim, along the Ards Peninsula flanking the eastern shores of HolywoodHolywood ConligConlig
Strangford Lough, and through the pretty seaside villages on Dundrum Bay, MillisleMillisle
this drive ends with a spectacular trip through the Mountains of Mourne. BELFASTBELFAST DundonaldDundonald
NewtownardsNewtownards
Lagan Lagan NewtownbredaNewtownbreda MOUNT STEWARTMOUNT STEWART CarrowdoreCarrowdore
DunmurryDunmurry HOUSE AND GARDENSHOUSE AND GARDENS
ComberComber
GREYABBEYGREYABBEY
DrumbegDrumbeg
MagheragallMagheragall CarryduffCarryduff BallywalterBallywalter
LisburnLisburn
BallygowanBallygowan LisbaneLisbane A A
r
r
MaheeMahee d d
IslandIsland s s
HillsboroughHillsborough KillinchyKillinchy KircubbinKircubbin
SaintfieldSaintfield P P GlastryGlastry
BoardmillsBoardmills e e
AnnahiltAnnahilt Quoile Quoile n n
DOWNDOWN DerryboyDerryboy n n
i
i
S t r a n g f o r d L o u g h
S t r a n g f o r d L o u g h
DromoreDromore ArdkeenArdkeen s u
s
ShirgleyShirgley l l CloghyCloghy
u
BallynahinchBallynahinch STRANGFORDSTRANGFORD
DromaraDromara CrossgarCrossgar KillyleaghKillyleagh LOUGHLOUGH a a
BanbridgeBanbridge PortaferryPortaferry
FinnisFinnis AnnacloyAnnacloy CASTLE WARDCASTLE WARD
StrangfordStrangford
Slieve Crooboob
Slieve Cr
535m 535m
FrankvilleFrankville
Bann
Bann
BallyquintinBallyquintin
DOWNPATRICKDOWNPATRICK PointPoint
Above The peaceful waters of Strangford Lough, the UK’s largest sea inlet and KatesbridgeKatesbridge TobermoryTobermory
designated an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, see p248 BallyduganBallydugan Killard PointKillard Point
CloughClough BallyhornanBallyhornan
DiamondDiamond BallywardBallyward
BallyroneyBallyroney
CastlewellanCastlewellan
Beech HillBeech Hill RathfrilandRathfriland DundrumDundrum ArdglassArdglass
0 kilometres 6 SquareSquare
KilloughKillough
KilcooKilcoo TollymoreTollymore
0 miles 6 Forest ParkForest Park Dundr umDundr um
PointPoint
HilltownHilltown NEWCASTLENEWCASTLE B ayB ay St John’sSt John’s
MayoMayo
BridgeBridge
NewryNewry SpelgaSpelga Slieve Donard
M o u r n e M o u n t a
Slieve Donard
DamDam
ACTIVITIES M o u r n e M o u n t a i n s i n s 852m 852m
Slieve Slieve
Binnian
744m 744m
Discover the epic story of the Titanic at BurrenBurren Binnian GlasdrummanGlasdrumman
the Titanic Visitors Centre in Belfast MOUNTAINSMOUNTAINS SilentSilent
OF MOURNEOF MOURNE ValleyValley
Explore the fascinating open-air Ulster AtticalAttical ReservoirReservoir AnnalongAnnalong
Folk and Transport Museum and step WarrenpointWarrenpoint RostrevorRostrevor MoyadMoyad
back to the 18th century
KillowenKillowen BallymartinBallymartin
Wander around the classical house and
LisnacreeLisnacree
gardens of lovely Castle Ward Carlingford Lough KilkeelKilkeel
CarlingfordCarlingford
Hike up Slieve Donard, the highest GreencastleGreencastle
mountain in Northern Ireland GreenoreGreenore
Carlingford Lough
CranfieldCranfield
PointPoint
244-245_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 244 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 24: The Land of St Patrick 245


Stranraer,Stranraer, PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Isle of Man,Isle of Man,
CarrickfergusCarrickfergus
LiverpoolLiverpool
B e l f a s t L o u g h h Start/finish: Belfast to the Mountains
of Mourne.
GreenislandGreenisland B e l f a s t L o u g
GlengormlyGlengormly Number of days: 3 days.
Newtown-Newtown- ULSTER FOLK ANDULSTER FOLK AND GroomsportGroomsport
TRANSPORT MUSEUM
abbeyabbey TRANSPORT MUSEUM CrawfordsburnCrawfordsburn CopelandCopeland Distance: 150 km (93 miles).
BelfastBelfast BangorBangor IslandIsland
CityCity Road conditions: Generally good,
DonaghadeeDonaghadee
HolywoodHolywood ConligConlig but some mountain roads may be
impassable in winter.
MillisleMillisle
BELFASTBELFAST DundonaldDundonald When to go: Spring, summer or
NewtownardsNewtownards autumn when the weather is milder
Lagan Lagan NewtownbredaNewtownbreda MOUNT STEWARTMOUNT STEWART CarrowdoreCarrowdore and most attractions are open.
DunmurryDunmurry HOUSE AND GARDENSHOUSE AND GARDENS Opening times: Most shops and
ComberComber
GREYABBEYGREYABBEY attractions open 9 or 10am–5 or 6pm.
DrumbegDrumbeg
MagheragallMagheragall CarryduffCarryduff BallywalterBallywalter Shops open Mon–Sat; in large towns
LisburnLisburn also 12–6pm on Sun. Convenience
BallygowanBallygowan LisbaneLisbane A A stores in villages open 8am until late.
r
r
MaheeMahee d d
IslandIsland s s Main market days: Belfast: Fri (variety)
HillsboroughHillsborough KillinchyKillinchy KircubbinKircubbin and Sat (food and garden), St George’s;
SaintfieldSaintfield P P GlastryGlastry
BoardmillsBoardmills e e Newtownards: Sat; Portaferry: Sat.
AnnahiltAnnahilt Quoile Quoile n n Major festivals: Belfast: Film Festival,
DOWNDOWN DerryboyDerryboy n n Mar–Apr; Titanic Made in Belfast, Apr;
i
i
S t r a n g f o r d L o u g h
S t r a n g f o r d L o u g h
DromoreDromore ArdkeenArdkeen s u Cathedral Quarter Arts Festival, Apr
s
ShirgleyShirgley l l CloghyCloghy and May; Hillsborough: Oyster Festival,
u
BallynahinchBallynahinch STRANGFORDSTRANGFORD
DromaraDromara CrossgarCrossgar KillyleaghKillyleagh LOUGHLOUGH a a Sep; Castlewellan: Celtic Fusion, Jul;
Newcastle: Mourne International
BanbridgeBanbridge PortaferryPortaferry Walking Festival, Jun.
FinnisFinnis AnnacloyAnnacloy CASTLE WARDCASTLE WARD
StrangfordStrangford
Slieve Cr
Slieve Crooboob
535m 535m
FrankvilleFrankville DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Bann
Bann
BallyquintinBallyquintin
DOWNPATRICKDOWNPATRICK PointPoint
KatesbridgeKatesbridge Nature lovers can experience
TobermoryTobermory Killard PointKillard Point
BallyduganBallydugan the area’s natural splendour and
CloughClough BallyhornanBallyhornan
DiamondDiamond BallywardBallyward diverse wildlife by hiring a canoe
BallyroneyBallyroney
on Strangford Lough, or hiking
CastlewellanCastlewellan through the Tollymore Forest Park
Beech HillBeech Hill RathfrilandRathfriland DundrumDundrum ArdglassArdglass in the foothills of the Mountains
SquareSquare
KilloughKillough of Mourne. Families with children
KilcooKilcoo TollymoreTollymore
Forest ParkForest Park Dundr umDundr um will enjoy visiting the Exploris Aquarium
HilltownHilltown NEWCASTLENEWCASTLE B ayB ay St John’sSt John’s in Portaferry. For full details, see p249.
PointPoint
MayoMayo
BridgeBridge
M o u r n e M o u n t a i n s i n s 852m 852m Drive route Below Newcastle, a 19th-century resort beneath
NewryNewry SpelgaSpelga Slieve Donard KEY Below left Belfast’s Crown Bar, see p246
M o u r n e M o u n t a
Slieve Donard
DamDam
Slieve Slieve
the Mourne Mountains, see p249
Binnian
744m 744m
BurrenBurren Binnian GlasdrummanGlasdrumman
MOUNTAINSMOUNTAINS SilentSilent
OF MOURNEOF MOURNE ValleyValley
ReservoirReservoir
AtticalAttical AnnalongAnnalong
WarrenpointWarrenpoint RostrevorRostrevor MoyadMoyad
KillowenKillowen BallymartinBallymartin
LisnacreeLisnacree
KilkeelKilkeel
CarlingfordCarlingford
GreencastleGreencastle
GreenoreGreenore
Carlingford Lough
Carlingford Lough
CranfieldCranfield
PointPoint
244-245_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 245 11/09/17 11:38 am

246 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Belfast
Co Antrim
A bustling trading port in the 18th and 19th centuries, Belfast has a
rich heritage. The city built and launched the RMS Titanic in 1912,
making it a global centre for ship-building; it is also famous for its
linen and tobacco industries. However, the Troubles, from the 1960s
to the 1990s, led to decline. Regeneration projects in the wake of
the peace process have helped the economy recover and there is
a buzz about the city, especially in the arty Cathedral Quarter,
Queen’s Quarter (around Queen’s University) and the Gaeltacht
Quarter, which promotes Irish language and culture.
Two-hour walking tour
Above The Big Fish sculpture on Belfast’s Start at City Hall on Donegall
regenerated waterfront Square 1, a classical masterpiece
completed in 1906. Take a look inside
at the palatial marbled entrance.
VISITING BELFAST
From the north side of the square
Parking walk along Donegall Place and
There are several car parks close to City continue before turning right into
Hall, including Bedford Street, Dublin Castle Lane, taking one of the narrow
Road and Great Victoria Street, and “Entries” to join High Street. Turn right
metered parking around Ulster Hall. here to see Albert Clock 2, a curious
Tourist Information tower, built in 1867 as a memorial to
Belfast Welcome Centre, 9 Donegall Prince Albert. Turn left along Victoria Above Political mural, West Belfast, the frontline
Square North, BT1 5AD; 028 9024 6609;
www.visitbelfast.com; open Sun Street, left into Waring Street and of the sectarian conflict known as the Troubles
11am–4pm; Jun–Sep: Mon–Sat right into Donegall Street to reach
9am–7pm; Oct–May 9am–5:30pm. the period Cathedral Quarter and public entry limited during services
St Anne’s Cathedral 3 (open Mon–Fri; on Sun). Work began in 1899 on
St Anne’s, which contains
WHERE TO STAY some beautiful mosaics
St Anne's
Cathedral of St Patrick. From the
BELFAST DONEGALL ST DONEGALL QUAY cathedral, turn left at Royal
Ten Square moderate WARING STREET Avenue, then right into
Boutique luxury hotel with 23 stylish ROYAL AVENUE Castle Street and left into
bedrooms and a superb, central H I G H S T R E E T Albert
Clock
location on Donegall Square. CASTLE STREET THE Fountain Street. At No. 52
10 Donegall Square South, BT1 5JD; PLACE CASTLE ENTRIES is Belfast’s oldest library –
028 9024 1001; www.tensquare.co.uk Linen Hall DONEGALL LANE VICTORIA ST the Linen Hall Library 4
Library CHICHESTER ST
Malmaison moderate–expensive Donegall (open Mon–Sat), with
Funky and stylish hotel in an old seed SQUARE COLLEGE Square MAY S TR EE T superb archives on Irish
warehouse. Period features mix with HOWARD ST history and culture. Walk
contemporary decor. Grand STREET BEDFORD along Wellington Place,
Opera
34–8 Victoria St, BT1 3GH; 028 9022 House AL FRED ST RE E T
0200; www.malmaison.com Crown Bar turn left at the end onto
College Square and
The Merchant Hotel expensive continue along Great
Set in a historic listed building in G R E AT V I C T O R I A S T
the Cathedral Quarter, and elegantly D U B L I N R O A D OR M E AU AV E Victoria Street. On the right
decorated with antiques. is the Grand Opera House
35–9 Waring St, BT1 2DY; 028 9023 5, a handsome building
4888; www.themerchanthotel.com SHAFTESBURY dating from 1895. No. 46
SQUARE
AROUND THE ULSTER FOLK AND BOTANIC AVENUE O R M E A U R O A D Lagan is Belfast’s most famous
TRANSPORT MUSEUM L I S B U R N R O A D pub – the Crown Bar 6 –
The Old Inn moderate U N I V E R S I T Y R O A D U N I V E R S I T Y S T R E E T with its fabulous high
Charming hotel that offers an old- Victorian interior. Continue
fashioned welcome with open fires UNIVERSITY to University Road and the
SQUARE
and beamed ceilings. Queen's COLLEGE PARK AVENUE University Quarter around
University
15 Main Street, Crawfordsburn, BT19 prestigious Queen’s
1JH (15 km/9 miles after the Ulster Folk Botanic 0 metres 500
Ulster
Museum on the A2, turn left on B20, Museum Gardens University 7, founded in
signposted Crawfordsburn); 028 9185 0 yards 500 1845. The Visitor Centre
3255; www.theoldinn.com (www.qub.ac.uk; 028 9097
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £100; moderate, £100–£200; expensive, over £200
246-249_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 246 13/10/17 1:06 pm

DRIVE 24: The Land of St Patrick 247


















Above left The wrought-iron and glass palm
5252) holds exhibitions and can and take the B20 (Ballyrobert Road) house in Belfast’s Botanic Gardens Above An
arrange guided tours of the campus. for Bangor and then the A21 to old-fashioned picture house recreated at the
From University Square, turn right Newtownards. Take the A20 for Ulster Folk Museum
onto College Park and continue Portaferry, driving beside Strangford
to Botanic Avenue and the Ulster Lough, and turn left for Mount Stewart
Museum 8 (www.nmni.com; open after 8 km (5 miles).
Tue–Sun), which has a fine collection
of art, craftwork and archaeological 3 Mount Stewart House
finds. Next door are the Botanic and Gardens
Gardens 9 (open daily), opened in Portaferry Rd, Newtownards,
1827. The early Victorian wrought- BT22 2AD; Co Down
iron and glass palm house was Created by Lady Londonderry in the
added soon after. To return to City 1920s, these gardens contain a vast
Hall, follow Botanic Avenue onto range of plants and trees, set off by
Dublin Road and Bedford Street. architectural features such as the
ª From Donegall Quay, take Victoria octagonal Temple of the Winds and
Street leading to A2 for Bangor, crossing outstanding views across Strangford
Queen Elizabeth Bridge. Continue on A2 Lough. Highlights include the Italian
to Holywood, following the signs for the and Spanish Gardens, the Shamrock
museum (11 km/7 miles from Belfast). Garden and the Sunken Garden. The
house has an eclectic collection of EAT AND DRINK IN BELFAST
Taxi and Boat Tours furniture and artwork – including a The Crown Bar inexpensive
To see West Belfast’s political painting of the celebrated racehorse The interior of Belfast’s most famous
murals, symbols of the city’s past Hambleton by George Stubbs – and pub, built in 1895, is ornately tiled,
and present sectarian divisions, information about the statesmen with etched glass, polished brass
take a Black Taxi tour from City Hall. who have lived or stayed here. and cosy snugs. The menu includes
Or tour the Titanic Quarter by boat, ª Leaving Mount Stewart, turn left baguettes and burgers plus traditional
visiting landmarks connected with onto the A20. Greyabbey is just over Irish stew and beef and Guinness pie.
the building of the RMS Titanic. 3 km (2 miles) from Mount Stewart. 46 Great Victoria St, BT2 7BA; 028 9024
Tours leave from the Lagan 3187; www.nicholsonspubs.co.uk
Lookout on Donegall Quay. The Cellar Restaurant moderate
This is one of the city’s best-kept
secrets. Set on the slopes of Cave Hill,
2 Ulster Folk and Transport it has great views over the city.
Museum Expect dishes such as venison, guinea
Cultra, Holywood, BT18 OEU; Co Down fowl, pan-fried salmon, lamb and one
or two vegetarian options.
This outdoor museum-village (open Belfast Castle, Antrim Rd,
Tue–Sun) has a collection of early BT15 5GR; 028 9077 6925;
20th-century buildings from all over www.belfastcastle.co.uk
Ulster, reconstructed here. A Deane’s expensive
transport section commemorates Award-winning eatery, run by chef
local ship- and aircraft-building, and Michael Deane, known for its high-
a miniature railway runs on Saturday quality cuisine using locally sourced
produce. Sleek, modern decor.
afternoons, weather permitting. 36–40 Howard St, BT1 6PF; 028 9033
ª Rejoin the A2 in the direction of Above The Neo-Classical façade of Mount Stewart 1134; www.michaeldeane.co.uk;
Bangor. Leave it at Crawfordsburn House, with a grand stairway leading to its gardens open Tue–Sat
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under £25; moderate, £25–50; expensive, over £50


246-249_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 247 13/10/17 1:06 pm

248 BACK ROADS IRELAND

VISITING STRANGFORD LOUGH
Tourist Information
Portaferry: The Stables, Castle Street,
BT22 1NZ; 028 4272 9882; www.
visitardsandnorthdown.com; open
Easter–end Sep
Boat Trips
From Portaferry to Strangford, ferries
run at quarter past and quarter to the
hour. Boat trips on the lough from
Portaferry can be arranged through
Ards Boat Tours, 028 9182 6846
WALKING IN THE MOUNTAINS
OF MOURNE Above Kilkeel Harbour, a major fishing port Above right Gothic arches of Cistercian Grey Abbey, founded in 1193
Route cards with ten Mourne 4 Greyabbey 6 Castle Ward
Mountains walks can be bought from Co Down Strangford, Downpatrick,
Mourne Heritage Trust, 87 Central The attractive village of Greyabbey BT30 7LS; Co Down
Promenade, Newcastle; 028 4372 4059;
www.mournelive.com. Guided walks takes its name from Grey Abbey, a The Strangford Lough Wildlife
are also available (028 4372 5143; Cistercian abbey founded in 1193. Information Centre (028 4488 1411) is
www.walksinthemournes.co.uk). The remains of its Gothic buttresses actually in the grounds of this stately
and arches nestle in parkland on the home (grounds open daily; house
north of the village. A museum in Jul–Aug: daily pm only; other times:
the gatehouse documents its history. weekends only; closed Nov–mid-Feb).
ª Return to the A20 and drive south Built in the1760s, it famously
to Portaferry, following the signs to combines two contrary architectural
WHERE TO STAY
the Strangford Ferry (see left). styles. The front of the house is Neo-
STRANGFORD LOUGH Classical, while the rear, overlooking
The Cuan Inn inexpensive 5 Strangford Lough Strangford Lough, is Neo-Gothic.
This small, friendly family-run hotel in Strangford, Downpatrick, Inside, the decor is similarly mixed.
Strangford village has an intimate feel. BT30 7LS; Co Down An extensive walled area surrounds
The Square, Strangford, BT30 7ND; 028 This Area of Outstanding Natural the house, with woodland trails and
4488 1222; www.thecuan.com Beauty forms the UK’s largest sea lovely views of the lough.
DOWNPATRICK inlet and is rich in wildlife. It is almost ª Turn right, taking the A25 to
The Mill at Ballydugan landlocked except for a gap between Downpatrick, 13 km (8 miles) away.
inexpensive–moderate Portaferry and Strangford known as In the town, follow signs for the Saint
Just outside Downpatrick, this 18th- the “Narrows”. The lough can be Patrick Centre and park opposite it.
century flour mill has been turned into accessed from either side. Arrange a
a small hotel, bistro and restaurant. canoe trip or take a boat tour around 7 Downpatrick
Drumcullen Road, Ballydugan,
BT30 8HZ; 028 4461 3654; its waters from Portaferry (see left). Co Down
www.ballyduganmill.com ª From Strangford, take the A25 St Patrick (c.AD 390–461), Ireland’s
towards Downpatrick for 2 km patron saint, landed in Strangford
NEWCASTLE (1 mile). At the crossroads there is a Lough in around AD 428. He is
Harbour House inexpensive sign for the entrance to Castle Ward strongly linked with Downpatrick.
Bright, simply furnished rooms in this
welcoming guesthouse south of town, pointing to the right. The Saint Patrick Centre (open
which also has a decent restaurant.
4 South Promenade, BT33 0EX;
028 4372 3445;
www.harbourhousenewcastle.com
Slieve Donard Resort & Spa
expensive
Built as a luxury Victorian hotel and still
oozing class in its unrivalled setting.
Downs Road, BT33 OAH; 028 4372
1066; www.hastingshotels.com
AROUND NEWCASTLE
Burrendale Hotel moderate
A relaxed hotel and country club on
the A50 just outside Newcastle, with a
cosy bar, two restaurants and pool.
51 Castlewellan Road, BT33 OJY;
028 4372 2599; www.burrendale.com Above The Neo-Classical front of Castle Ward, which gives no clue to its Neo-Gothic rear
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under £100; moderate, £100–£200; expensive, over £200


246-249_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 248 13/10/17 1:06 pm