(DK Eyewitness) Back Roads Travel Guide - Ireland

DRIVE 14: Dublin’s North Coast 149

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Balbriggan
Balbriggan
Start/finish: Dublin to Ardgillan
Dallyhaysy
Dallyhaysy Demesne.
Rockabill
ARDGILLAN
ARDGILLAN Rockabill
DEMESNE
DEMESNE
Balrothery
Balrothery Red Red Number of days: 2, allowing half a
Island
Island
St Patrick’s
Naul St Patrick’s day to explore Dublin.
Naul
Island
Black Hills SKERRIES Island
Black Hills
SKERRIES
Distance: 72 km (45 miles).
Skerries
Skerries
Shenick’s
Mills
Mills Shenick’s
Island
Island Road conditions: County Dublin
Balcunnin roads are generally good.
Balcunnin
Damastown
Damastown
When to go: Summer is a lovely time
Loughshinny
Ballykea
Ballykea Loughshinny
Collinstown to visit, but busy. Good weather in
Collinstown
spring and autumn. The St Patrick’s Day
weekend is busy, so book ahead.
Ir ish
Ir ish
Lusk Opening times: Most shops and
Lusk
Rush
Rush
Sea
Ballyboghil Sea attractions open 9am–6pm. Shops
Ballyboghil
open Mon–Sat; also 12–6pm on Sun.
Main market days: Dublin: Temple
DUBLIN
DUBLIN Bar, Sat; Powerscourt Townhouse, Sat;
Docklands, Wed; Howth Harbour: Sun
Portrane and public holiday Mon; Malahide:
Portrane
Lambay
Donaba
Batheary
Batheary Donabatete Lambay Sat; Skerries Mills: Sat.
Island
Island
NEWBRIDGE
NEWBRIDGE Major festivals: Dublin: International
DEMESNE
DEMESNE Film Festival, Feb; St Patrick’s Festival,
Broadmeadow
Broadmeadow
Mar; Docklands Summertime Festival,
May; Dublin Theatre Festival, Sep/Oct;
Swords Taste of Dublin Food Festival, Jun;
Swords
MALAHIDE
Ward ard MALAHIDE Howth: Peninsula Festival, Jun/Jul;
W
0 kilometres 3 Malahide: National Piping Festival,
Malahide Jul; Skerries: Traditional Music
Malahide
Castle
Castle
0 miles 3 Weekend, May.
Cloghran
Cloghran
St Margarets
St Margarets
Dublin Portmarnock DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Dublin
Portmarnock
PORTMARNOCK
PORTMARNOCK
BEACH
BEACH History-lovers should explore the
region’s stately homes and gardens; in
summer, families may prefer a day at
Irelands Eye
Irelands Eye
Baldoyle
Baldoyle the seaside, with boat trips and lovely
Santry
Santry Sutton beaches. For full details, see p153.
Sutton
Cross
Finglas
Finglas Cross HOWTH
HOWTH
Below Dublin’s elegant, high-arched Ha’penny
Nose of
Raheny
Raheny Nose of Bridge, spanning the River Liffey, see p151
Howth
Glasnevin
Glasnevin Howth
Drumcondra
Drumcondra
Howth
Howth
Summit
Summit
Phoenix
Phoenix Clontarf Howth Baily
Clontarf
Baily
Howth
Park Head Lighthouse
Park
Head
Lighthouse
Chapelizod
Chapelizod
DUBLIN
DUBLIN
Isle of Man,
Isle of Man,
Dub lin Liverpool, Holyhead
Dub lin
Liverpool, Holyhead
B
B ay ay
Crumlin
Crumlin
Merrion
Merrion
Milltown
Milltown
Bootertown
Bootertown
148-149_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 149 12/09/17 12:32 pm

150 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Dublin
Dublin
Dublin is a compact city and easy to explore on foot, ideal for
wandering around the cobbled streets of Temple Bar or admiring
the grandeur of elegant Georgian squares and parks. From its fine
museums, majestic cathedrals and beautiful university buildings,
redolent of Dublin’s history, to modern art galleries and shopping
arcades, there is plenty to see and do along this walk.

A three-hour walking tour secluded park with grottoes, cascades
Start at the Dublin Tourism office 1 and mazes. Retrace the walk and
in Suffolk Street. Turn right and carry continue along the west side of the
on along Nassau Street. Take the green into Grafton Street 0, the city’s
fourth right into Kildare Street, main, pedestrianized shopping street.
passing Leinster House, seat of the Walk down it and take the little lane
Above Frontage of The Quay’s Bar, a pub in Irish Government and the National beside Bewley’s café on the left to
the lively Temple Bar district Library of Ireland 2 (open Mon–Sat). Powerscourt Townhouse Centre q,
The National Museum of Ireland – which has Irish fashion designer and
Archaeology 3 (open Tue–Sun), further antique shops. Behind this, the
along the street, has more than two George’s Street Arcade w has eclectic
million archaeological artifacts from all stalls in an impressive market building.
Ireland. At the top of the street, turn Back on Grafton Street, at the far
left along Merrion Row and left again end, is the Molly Malone statue e,
into Merrion Street Upper, to reach the which commemorates the legendary
VISITING DUBLIN
National Museum – Natural History Dublin fishmonger. Further along on
4 (open Tue–Sun) and the National the right is the arched entrance to
Parking
For parking near the Dublin Tourism Gallery 5 (open daily), with a fine Trinity College Dublin r (open daily),
office there is a car park at St Stephen’s collection of Irish and European old Ireland’s oldest university, founded
Green Shopping Centre (accessed masters, opposite Georgian Merrion in 1592. Here the Book of Kells is on
from Mercer Street Lower), Drury Square’s 6 charming gardens. Cross display in the Old Library. Walk down
Street car park, Brown Thomas car park
(accessed from Clarendon Street) or the square for a fine view down Mount Dame Street, opposite, passing Bank
Trinity Street car park, or at pay-and- Street Upper to the distinctive looking of Ireland College Green, the former
display spaces on the street. St Stephen’s Church 7, affectionately houses of parliament, on the right.
Tourist Information known as the Pepper Pot Church. Ahead on the left is Dublin Castle t
Visit Dublin Centre, Suffolk Street, Return to Merrion Row and walk (open daily), where it is possible to tour
Dublin 2; 1 850 230 330; www. as far as the large Victorian park, the State Apartments and also visit
visitdublin.com; open daily St Stephen’s Green 8, on the left. the Chester Beatty Library y (open
Walk diagonally across the green to Mar–Oct: daily; Nov–Feb: closed Mon),
Harcourt Street, and up it to Clonmel a gem-like collection of Asian and
WHERE TO STAY IN DUBLIN Street, on the left, at the end of which European manuscripts. Carry on and
is Iveagh Gardens 9 (open daily), a turn right into Werburgh Street, then
Mont Clare Hotel moderate
This is a traditional Dublin hotel with
a great location near the museums, Below Georgian townhouses overlooking the charming gardens of Merrion Square
Trinity College and Grafton Street.
Merrion Square, Dublin 2; 01 607 3800;
www.ocallaghanhotels.com
Merrion Hotel expensive
Experience Georgian grandeur in this
beautifully restored luxury hotel on
Merrion Street in the heart of Georgian
Dublin. It’s also the venue for Ireland’s
only two-Michelin-starred restaurant.
Upper Merrion Street, Dublin 2; 01 603
0600; www.merrionhotel.com
Shelbourne Hotel expensive
This elegant hotel overlooking
St Stephen’s Green is one of the city’s
most famous and distinguished hotels.
Rooms offer unbridled luxury and the
attention to detail is first class.
27 St Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2; 01 663
4500; www.marriott.co.uk
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

150-153_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 150 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 14: Dublin’s North Coast 151



Ha’penny A S T O N Q U A Y O‘Connell Bridge and
Bridge
O R M O N D Q U AY L O W E R FLEET STREET
Liffey
WELLINGTON QUAY BAR WESTMORELAND Dublin Writers Museum
STREET
TEMPLE
TEMPLE LANE SOUTH FOWNES ST COLLEGE Trinity College P E A R S E S T R E E T
WO OD QUAY Bank of
Ireland
ST
Christ Church LORD EDWARD DAME STREET GREEN Dublin
Cathedral Dublin SUFFOLK ST
Dublin Tourism Office Molly Malone
Castle Statue WESTLAND ROW
CHRIST George’s
CHURCH PL STREET WERBURGH S GREAT GEORGE’S S T CASTLE STREET N A S S A U S T R E E T
Street Arcade
MARKET
KILDARE ST
Chester Powerscourt JOHNSON
CT
Beatty Library Townhouse D A W S O N S T R E E T National Library National
NICHOLAS
Centre of Ireland Gallery
BRIDE ST
STREET
House
Whitefriars
St Patrick's Street Church KING ST SOUTH GRAFTON National Museum of Leinster MERRION SQ W MERRION SQUARE N
PATRICK ST Saint Patrick's AUNGIER STREET STREET LOWER ST STEPHEN’S GREEN NORTH National Museum – Merrion
Park
Ireland – Archaeology
Cathedral
Natural History
Square
Marsh's
Library YORK STREET ST STEPHEN’S GREEN WEST MERRION MERRION ST UPPER MERRION SQUARE S
NEW STREET SOUTH CUFFE STREE HARCOURT ST St Stephen’s ST STEPHEN’S GREEN EAST 0 metres 300 FITZWILLIAM ST LOWER St Stephen's
MERCER
KEVIN
BISHOP STREET
ROW
ST PATRICK’S CLOSE ST UPPER
Green
Church
CLONMEL ST STEPHEN’S GREEN SOUTH 0 yards 300
Iveagh Gardens
STREET
The Book of Kells a to explore its arts centres and
The most lavishly decorated of cafés. From here walk up Dame Street
Ireland’s illuminated manuscripts, towards Trinity College; turn right at
containing the four Gospels in Latin, College Green to return to the start.
was written by monks from Kells in To extend the walk, head down
AD 806. The text is in a beautifully Westmoreland Street to cross the
rounded Celtic script, with brightly
ornamented initial letters and O’Connell Bridge over the Liffey into
embellishments of intricate spirals O’Connell Street. Pass the General
as well as animal and human forms. Post Office (GPO), the postal head- EAT AND DRINK IN DUBLIN
quarters and a significant building
during the 1916 Rising. McDaid’s Pub
left to Christ Church Opposite it is the 120-m The old-style character and ambience
Cathedral u, founded here (400-ft) monument, The make this one of Dublin’s best-loved
in 1030. Cross over into Spire. At the end of the pubs. It does not serve food.
3 Harry Street, Dublin 2; 01 679 4395
Nicholas Street, which street is Parnell Square,
becomes Patrick Street, for home to Dublin Writers The Brazen Head inexpensive
Saint Patrick’s Cathedral Museum (open daily), with Ireland’s oldest pub, which dates back
to 1198. Traditional Irish music live in
i, adjacent to the well memorabilia from Irish the bar every night, and classic dishes
where St Patrick baptized writers such as Swift, Shaw, such as Irish stew washed down with
converts. First built in 1191, Wilde, Yeats, Joyce and Guinness in its restaurant.
the present building dates Beckett. A little further 20 Bridge Street Lower, Dublin 8; 01
from 1220. Just behind it A Georgian along Parnell Square north 677 9549; www.brazenhead.com
on St Patrick’s Close is doorway is Dublin City Gallery, The L’Gueuleton moderate
Marsh’s Library o (closed Hugh Lane (closed Mon) with A buzzing, French-style bistro whose
Tue and Sun), Ireland’s first public a large collection of Impressionist dishes, such as foie gras parfait with
spiced pear, are sure-fire winners.
library, founded in 1701. At the end of masterpieces and contemporary art. 1 Fade Street, Dublin 2; 01 675 3708;
the Close is Kevin Street: walk along ª From O’Connell Bridge follow the www.lgueuleton.com
it and cross at the curve into Bishop river east. At the Customs House turn Chapter One Restaurant expensive
Street; at the far end is Aungier Street. left onto R105, signposted Malahide. With a Michelin star, this is one of
Turn left to visit Whitefriars Street Pass through Clontarf, with Dublin port Dublin’s smartest restaurants, with a
Church p, housing the relics of Saint on the right. At Sutton Cross (12 km/ popular pre-theatre menu (moderate).
Valentine, patron of romantic love. 8 miles out of the city), turn right up Be sure to book well in advance.
Basement of Writers’ Museum, 18–19
Carry on down Aungier Street into Carrickbrack Road. Turn right at Summit Parnell Square, Dublin 1; 01 873 2266;
South Great Georges Street and cross Inn, then left up Baily Green Road, past www.chapteronerestaurant.com; open
into the cobbled streets of Temple Bar The Summit. Park at the end of the road. lunch: Tue–Fri; dinner: Tue–Sat
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50
150-153_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 151 13/10/17 1:06 pm

152 BACK ROADS IRELAND


2 Howth 4 Malahide
Co Dublin Co Dublin
The views from Howth Summit Malahide is a pretty heritage town
across Dublin Bay to the city and the with interesting shops and cafés.
Wicklow Mountains are unrivalled in Both this and its large, ultra-modern
the whole county. From the car park marina village are perfect for a stroll.
a cliff walk to the right leads to the For a more thrilling time, take a high-
Baily lighthouse. Return to the main speed trip around the bay in a Rigid
road and turn right down Carrick- Inflatable Boat (www.seasafari.ie). The
brack road to the village. Park in the boat tours also include the chance to
car park at the pier or on the seafront. learn about local history and see a
Dominated by a harbour with a large variety of local birds and wildlife
marina and yacht club, Howth is a including dolphins, puffins and seals.
pretty village with a thriving fishing One of the main attractions of the
industry. Climb its hilly streets to the area lies just outside the village.
abbey ruins for views over the harbour Malahide Castle and Demesne (open
and nearby islands, or take a boat trip daily) was home to the Talbot family
out to Ireland’s Eye, a bird sanctuary from 1185 until 1973. A tour of the
where a colony of puffins nests. castle’s interiors, reveals highlights
ª Leave Howth and follow the coast such as the oak-beamed Great Hall,
road. Turn right at Sutton Cross. a collection of fine 18th-century Irish
Follow the R106 through Baldoyle, furniture and an impressive Portrait
then the coast road through one Collection. The interpretive centre
Above Martello tower near Howth Head roundabout, turning right at the and exhibition of local and Irish
second. After Portmarnock Hotel, turn history give further information.
right for Portmarnock Beach. Within the 100-ha (250-acre)
landscaped grounds of the Demesne
3 Portmarnock Beach are walks and picnic areas as well as
Portmarnock, Co Dublin the Talbot Botanic Gardens, which
Portmarnock Beach, also known as feature a collection of southern
The Velvet Strand, is 5 km (3 miles) hemisphere plants. There is also a
long, backed by sand dunes, with secret garden, a café and craft and
sweeping views of Ireland’s Eye, souvenir shops.
Lambay Island and Howth Head. ª From Malahide Demesne, turn
To the north, a striking limestone right onto Back Road and then right
sculpture of a globe marks Australian onto the R107. At the next junction,
WHERE TO STAY aviator Charles Kingsford Smith’s turn left onto the R106, signed for
departure from the beach to fly the Swords. Turn right onto the R132,
HOWTH
Atlantic in 1930. then right again onto the R126 signed
King Stiric moderate ª Continue along the coast road for Donabate. Turn left at the sign for
A distinctive red-painted building with (R106) to reach Malahide. Newbridge House.
eight smart rooms, all with sea views,
and a highly regarded fish restaurant.
East Pier; 01 832 5235; Below Huge kitchen of Newbridge House, with its magnificent display of historic cooking equipment
www.kingstiric.ie and crockery set out on original antique furnishings
AROUND HOWTH
Clontarf Castle moderate–expensive
This urban castle dates back to 1172.
Its historic exterior conceals a stylish
fusion of ancient and modern.
Castle Avenue, Clontarf, Dublin 3
(follow R105 Howth Road to Clontarf);
01 833 2321; www.clontarfcastle.ie
MALAHIDE
The Grand moderate–expensive
The Grand Hotel, set amid its own
grounds in the pretty seaside village of
Malahide, was built in 1835 but today
offers every modern luxury. With easy
access to the sea and amenities, it’s a
good base for exploring the area.
01 845 0000; www.thegrand.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


150-153_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 152 13/10/17 1:06 pm

DRIVE 14: Dublin’s North Coast 153


6 Skerries
Co Dublin EAT AND DRINK
The fishing town of Skerries, with its
long golden beach on one side and HOWTH
harbour dotted with yachts on the Aqua moderate– expensive
A magnificent waterside location on
other, culminates in the peninsula of Howth’s Old Pier for fresh seafood.
Red Island. Walk up past the Martello 1 West Pier; 01 832 0690; www.aqua.ie
Tower for panoramic views as far as Beshoff’s moderate–expensive
Northern Ireland’s Mountains of Oyster bar, café and market from the
Mourne. A colony of seals resides traditional fishmonger family, the
nearby, and they can often be seen Beshoffs. Buzzing atmosphere.
accompanying fishing boats back to West Pier; 01 839 7555; www.beshoffs.ie
the harbour. King Sitric expensive
Skerries Mills (open daily) comprises The best Howth Harbour’s catch, and
a watermill, a five-sail Great Windmill game dishes with a creative twist.
East Pier; 01 832 5235; www.kingsitric.ie;
Above Thatched and whitewashed cottage in the and a thatched four-sail windmill. All closed Mon & Tue
fishing town of Skerries date from the 16th century and have
been restored to working order. MALAHIDE
5 Newbridge Demesne There is also a millpond, cornfield Fowler’s inexpensive
Donabate, Co Dublin and a museum of industrial heritage. A lively, traditional Irish pub with
The elegant Georgian Newbridge As part of the tour, visitors can try regular music sessions and pub grub.
New Street; 01 845 0960; www.fowlers.ie
House (open Apr–Sep: daily; Oct–Mar: their hands at milling and climb to
Tue–Sun) is set within the 145 ha the top of a mill for spectacular views. Hush Brasserie moderate
(360 acres) of Newbridge Demesne. ª From Skerries Mills, turn right out The place to visit for a range of quality
seafood, meat and pasta dishes.
The tour includes the striking Red of the car park and take second right New Street; 01 806 1928;
Drawing Room, one of the best- onto Sherlock Terrace. Take the first www.hushbrasserie.ie
preserved Georgian rooms in the right and right again, signed for
country; the huge kitchen, full of Ardgillan Castle Demesne.
antique utensils; and a quaint
Museum of Curiosities. 7 Ardgillan Demesne
Outside the house, the cobbled Balbriggan, Co Dublin
courtyard features a museum of The name Ardgillan means “high
country life including an 18th-century wooded area”, and the Demesne
blacksmith’s forge and carpenter’s (open daily) enjoys magnificent views
workshop. Within the Demesne is of Drogheda Bay and the north
a traditional farm with vintage Dublin coastline. Its 78 ha (195 acres)
machinery and rare-breed animals, of parklands, woods and formal
as well as a walled garden sheltering gardens include a rose garden,
traditional Irish apple varieties and walled kitchen garden, haunted yew
two 19th-century glasshouses. walk and Ice House. In the grounds
ª Turn right onto Hearse Road, at the stands Ardgillan Castle (open Jul–Aug:
roundabout take the third exit onto daily; Sep–Jun: Tue–Sun), a large,
R132. Cross the next roundabout. Turn castellated house built in 1738 and
right onto R127. At the next roundabout lovingly restored. The guided tour
take the first exit, drive through Lusk takes visitors through Georgian and
village. At the Skerries Road roundabout Victorian styled rooms. Upstairs is a
take the first exit onto R127. At the next unique collection of maps from the Above Crenellated Ardgillan Castle, set in the
roundabout take the first exit to Skerries. 17th-century Down Survey of Ireland. lovely grounds of its Demesne

DAY TRIP OPTIONS elegant Georgian house. Continue Beside the sea
Dublin is the perfect base to visit the to Ardgillan Demesne 7 for more Start at Howth 2 and walk around
magnificent Demesnes or spend Georgian-styled rooms in the castle. Howth Head to the Baily Lighthouse
the day exploring the coast, perhaps or pretty Howth village. Follow the
ending with a boat trip. From Dublin take the M1 (toll road). Take coast to the beach at Portmarnock
Donabate exit for Newbridge Demesne. 3 and pretty Malahide 4 for a boat
Historic houses
Start with a walk around Georgian Follow R126 back towards motorway trip around the bay.
Dublin 1 before heading out to and turn right on R127 to Balbriggan for Follow driving tour instructions from
Newbridge Demesne 5 with its Ardgillan Demesne. the car park at Howth Head.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


150-153_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 153 11/09/17 11:38 am

BR_IR_154-155_Opener15.indd 154 23/10/09 14:28:30
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

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• Cistercian abbey
Trace the ruins of tranquil Mellifont
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,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ ,JMMBSOFZ
$PSL
$PSL $PSL $PSL $PSL • Seat of the High Kings
Climb the Hill of Tara, a site of
mythical importance as the political
and spiritual centre of Ireland
Mellifont Abbey’s Romanesque ruins include
this octagonal lavabo (washing chamber)
BR_IR_154-155_Opener15.indd 155 23/10/09 14:28:34

156 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Valley of the Kings

The Boyne Valley is considered to be the cradle of Irish
history and civilization. Among the remarkable heritage
sites located in this rolling river valley are the medieval
monastery of Monasterboice; the Boyne battlefield –
setting for the most significant battle in Irish history; the
world-famous Stone Age passage tombs of Newgrange;
the Hill of Slane where St Patrick proclaimed the arrival of
Christianity, and the Hill of Tara where Ireland’s ancient
High Kings were crowned. Important in shaping the
country’s destiny, these ancient sites have become tranquil
beauty spots, where history and legend meet.


Above Oldbridge House tells the dramatic story of the
Virginia
Virginia
Smarmore
Castleranan Battle of the Boyne, see p159 Smarmore Ashville Philipstown
Castleranan
Eighter Eighter Ashville Philipstown
Lough
Barconny Knockatemple Lough Siddan Siddan White White White River Mullary
Knockatemple
Barconny
Ramor
White River
Ramor
Mullary
Mountain
Cloghbally
Bracklorey Cloghbally Mountain Cross Cross Tinure Tinure LOUTH
Bracklorey
LOUTH
Lobinstown
Thomastown
Ryefield Moynalty Thomastown Lobinstown Brownstown Leahby Leahby MONASTERBOICE
Ryefield
Brownstown
Moynalty
MONASTERBOICE
Cross Cross
Kellystown
Castletown Kellystown
Castletown
Castlecar Oldcastle Virginia Togherstown Collon Collon Newtown
Castlecar
Virginia
Oldcastle
Togherstown
Newtown
Monasterboice
Termonfeckin
Loughan
Ballinvally Road Road Loughan Hoardstown Starinagh Monasterboice Termonfeckin
Ballinvally
Hoardstown
Irishford Starinagh
Irishford
Ballymakenny
Mill Brook LOUGHCREW Carnacross Carlanstown Ballymakenny
Carlanstown
LOUGHCREW
Mill Brook
Ballynacree Carnacross Creewood Glassallen Mellifont Tullyeskar
Ballynacree
Tullyeskar
Mellifont
Glassallen
CAIRNS Creewood
CAIRNS
Rathkenny
Tullyallen
Castlekeeran
MELLIFONT ABBEY
Loughcrew Ballinlough Castlekeeran KELLS KELLS Wilkinstown Rathkenny MELLIFONT ABBEY Tullyallen Mell Mell Baltray Baltray
Loughcrew
Wilkinstown
Ballinlough
Springhall Oristown
Springhall
Oristown
BATTLE OF THE BOYNE
Drumone Blackwater Clongill Hill of Slane BATTLE OF THE BOYNE
Drumone
Clongill
Hill of Slane
DROGHEDA
Corballis
Ardglassan Ballally Ballally Corballis Harlinstown SITESITE DROGHEDA
Harlinstown
Ardglassan
Blackwater
Crossakeel Calliaghstown Rossin Rossin Donacarney
Crossakeel
Calliaghstown
SLANE
White White Barfordstown SLANE Donacarney
Kilberry
Roachtown
Lough Lough Ballany Ballany Roachtown Creevagh Barfordstown Donaghpatrick Kilberry Stackallan Knowth Knowth Dowth Dowth Painestown
Creevagh
Stackallan
Donaghpatrick
Painestown
Newgrange
Cross Keys MEA TH Boyne Boyne Newgrange Donore
Cross Keys
Donore
Kilskeer
Fore Fore Kilskeer Piercetown MEA TH
Piercetown
Lough Lough Mullaghard Beau Parc BRÚ NA
Mullaghard
Beau Parc
BRÚ NA
Bare Bare Oldtown
Oldtown
BÓINNE
Glenidan Killacroy Girley Girley Fordstown Windtown Hays Hays Yellow Yellow Lougher BÓINNE Beaumont Julianstown
Fordstown
Glenidan
Julianstown
Beaumont
Lougher
Killacroy
Windtown
Bohermeen
Clonmellon Bohermeen Furze Furze Duleek Duleek
Clonmellon
Jamestown
Archerstown Mooneystown Jamestown Navan Navan Lisdornan
Archerstown
Lisdornan
Mooneystown
Harristown
Collierstown
Ballinlig Neillstown Harristown Collierstown
Ballinlig
Neillstown
Boyerstown
Johnstown
Martinstown Boyerstown Johnstown Sicily Sicily
Martinstown
Carness
Cloran Cloran Tullaghanstown Brownstown Kentstown Carness
Tullaghanstown
Kentstown
Brownstown
Halltown Kilcarn Kilcarn Balrath Balrath
Halltown
Loughanstown Wardstown
Loughanstown
Wardstown
Athboy Walterstown
Athboy
Walterstown
Irishtown
Philpotstown Irishtown
Philpotstown
ACTIVITIES Dunderry Bellinter
Dunderry
Stonestown Bellinter
Stonestown
Rathfeigh
Skryne Hill
Robinstown
Robinstown Skryne Hill Rathfeigh
Shop for crafts in the attractive town of
Drogheda, gateway to the Boyne Stonyford Stonyford Kildalkey Boyne Bective Bective HILL OF
HILL OF
Kildalkey
TRIM TRIM Boyne TARA TARA Tara Tara
Explore the mysterious passage tombs Kilmessan
Kilmessan
at Loughcrew Portanab
Portanab
Teaguestown
Teaguestown
Dunsany
Dunsany
Visit the battle site of the pivotal Battle Walterstown
Walterstown
of the Boyne Laracor Laracor
Follow St Patrick’s footsteps on the
Hill of Slane
Stroll beside the River Boyne at Trim,
taking in the majestic castle and ruined
abbeys on its banks
156-157_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 156 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 15: Valley of the Kings 157

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Drogheda to the Hill
of Tara.
Number of days: 3.
Distance: 137 km (85 miles).
Road conditions: Some surfaces of
minor roads are poor and uneven (for
example, the road to Mellifont Abbey).
When to go: Most of the main sights
on this drive are outdoors, so spring,
Above Trim on the banks of the Boyne. The ruined Belfry Tower on the left-hand side is one of summer or autumn are preferable.
several medieval monuments in the town, see p161 Whatever the season, rain gear and
comfortable walking shoes are a must.
Opening times: Most shops and
0 kilometres 5
attractions open 9 or 10am–5 or 6pm.
Virginia Shops open Mon–Sat; in large towns
Virginia
Smarmore
Castleranan Smarmore Ashville Philipstown 0 miles 5
Castleranan
Eighter Eighter Ashville Philipstown also 12–6pm on Sun. Convenience
Lough
Knockatemple
Barconny Knockatemple Lough Siddan Siddan White White White River Mullary stores in villages open 8am until late.
Barconny
Ramor
Ramor
White River
Mullary
Mountain
Cloghbally
Bracklorey Cloghbally Mountain Cross Cross Tinure Tinure LOUTH Main market days: Drogheda: Sat;
Bracklorey
LOUTH
Lobinstown
Thomastown
Ryefield Moynalty Thomastown Lobinstown Brownstown Leahby Leahby MONASTERBOICE Kells: Farmers’ Market Sat am.
Moynalty
Brownstown
Ryefield
MONASTERBOICE
Cross Cross
Kellystown
Castletown Kellystown
Castletown
Castlecar Oldcastle Virginia Togherstown Collon Collon Newtown Major festivals: Drogheda:
Castlecar
Oldcastle
Togherstown
Virginia
Newtown
Monasterboice
Termonfeckin
Loughan
Ballinvally Road Road Loughan Hoardstown Starinagh Monasterboice Termonfeckin Arts Festival, Apr/May; Irish Maritime
Hoardstown
Ballinvally
Irishford Starinagh
Irishford
Ballymakenny
Carlanstown
Mill Brook LOUGHCREW Carnacross Carlanstown Ballymakenny Festival, Jun; Loughcrew:
LOUGHCREW
Mill Brook
Ballynacree Carnacross Creewood Glassallen Mellifont Tullyeskar
Ballynacree
Glassallen
Mellifont
Tullyeskar
CAIRNS Creewood Opera Festival, May/Jun; Trim:
CAIRNS
Rathkenny
Castlekeeran
Tullyallen
MELLIFONT ABBEY
Loughcrew Ballinlough Castlekeeran KELLS KELLS Wilkinstown Rathkenny MELLIFONT ABBEY Tullyallen Mell Mell Baltray Baltray Swift Festival, Jul.
Loughcrew
Wilkinstown
Ballinlough
Springhall
Springhall Oristown
Oristown
BATTLE OF THE BOYNE
Drumone Blackwater Clongill Hill of Slane BATTLE OF THE BOYNE
Drumone
Clongill
Hill of Slane
DROGHEDA
Corballis
Ardglassan Ballally Ballally Corballis Harlinstown SITESITE DROGHEDA
Harlinstown
Ardglassan
Blackwater
Crossakeel Calliaghstown Rossin Rossin Donacarney DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Crossakeel
Calliaghstown
SLANE
White White Barfordstown SLANE Donacarney
Roachtown
Kilberry
Lough Lough Ballany Ballany Roachtown Creevagh Barfordstown Donaghpatrick Kilberry Stackallan Knowth Knowth Dowth Dowth Painestown
Stackallan
Creevagh
Donaghpatrick
Painestown
Newgrange
Cross Keys MEA TH Boyne Boyne Newgrange Donore Visit three of Ireland’s best historical
Donore
Cross Keys
Kilskeer
Fore Fore Kilskeer Piercetown MEA TH sights, all within a short distance
Piercetown
Lough Lough Mullaghard Beau Parc BRÚ NA
Mullaghard
Beau Parc
BRÚ NA
Bare Bare Oldtown of each other. Those fascinated by
Oldtown
BÓINNE
Glenidan Killacroy Girley Girley Fordstown Windtown Hays Hays Yellow Yellow Lougher BÓINNE Beaumont Julianstown Ireland’s Celtic High Crosses and
Glenidan
Fordstown
Julianstown
Beaumont
Lougher
Killacroy
Windtown
Bohermeen
Clonmellon Bohermeen Furze Furze Duleek Duleek round towers should head for
Clonmellon
Jamestown
Archerstown Mooneystown Jamestown Navan Navan Lisdornan Monasterboice for impressive
Lisdornan
Archerstown
Mooneystown
Collierstown
Harristown
Ballinlig Neillstown Harristown Collierstown examples of both. Romantics can
Ballinlig
Neillstown
Boyerstown
Johnstown
Martinstown Boyerstown Johnstown Sicily Sicily
Martinstown
Carness
Cloran Cloran Tullaghanstown Brownstown Kentstown Carness spend a day exploring the medieval
Tullaghanstown
Brownstown
Kentstown
Halltown Kilcarn Kilcarn Balrath Balrath town of Trim. For full details, see p161.
Halltown
Loughanstown Wardstown
Loughanstown
Wardstown
Athboy Walterstown
Athboy
Walterstown
Irishtown
Philpotstown Irishtown
Philpotstown
Dunderry Bellinter Below The area around Newgrange is dotted with
Dunderry
Stonestown Bellinter underground passage tombs, see p160
Stonestown
Rathfeigh
Skryne Hill
Robinstown Skryne Hill Rathfeigh
Robinstown
Bective Bective
HILL OF
Kildalkey Boyne Boyne HILL OF
Kildalkey
Stonyford
TRIM TRIM TARA TARA Tara Tara
Stonyford
Kilmessan
Kilmessan
Portanab
Portanab
Teaguestown
Teaguestown
Dunsany
Dunsany
Walterstown
Walterstown
Laracor Laracor
KEY
Drive route
156-157_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 157 11/09/17 11:38 am

158 BACK ROADS IRELAND



Corn
Exchange St Peter's Church
of Ireland W I L L I A M S T R E E T St Laurence’s
Highlanes
Gallery
F A I R S T R E E T Gate
L A U R E N C E S T R E E T
St Peter's P E T E R S T R E E T Drogheda CONSTITUTION HILL
Grammar School
Church BACHELORS LN
W E S T S T R E E T
D U K E S T
D O M I N I C K S T R E E T W E S T S T R E E T Thosel S H O P S T R E E T MAYORALTY ST T H E M A L L
The
VISITING DROGHEDA N O R T H Q U A Y
Parking D Y E R S T R E E T
St Mary's
There is on-street pay-and-display B o y n e Bridge
parking throughout town but
especially near the river, on The Mall. N E W S T R E E T J A M E S S T R E E T
Central car parks include Bolton J O H N S T R E E T
Square; O’Reilly’s, off Fair St; King St;
and Abbey and Murdoch’s, both D U L E E K S T
behind the Abbey Shopping Centre.
0 metres 500
Tourist Information Millmount
The Thosel, West Street; 041 987 2843; 0 yards 500
www.drogheda.ie; open Mon–Sat
1 Drogheda
WHERE TO STAY IN DROGHEDA Co Louth
Near the mouth of the River Boyne, Drogheda is one of Ireland’s
The D Hotel inexpensive–moderate
Stylish modern hotel right in the finest medieval towns and the gateway to the Boyne Valley. A mix
centre of Drogheda, on the banks of of old and new, it has abundant history and colour, with quiet lanes
the Boyne and next to the Scotch Hall and busy shopping streets. High on a hill overlooking the town is
shopping complex. The riverside
restaurant and bar are popular local Millmount, a former military complex that is now a museum – there
meeting places. are splendid panoramic views from its Martello tower.
Scotch Hall; 041 987 7700;
www.thedhotel.com
A one-hour walking tour Plunkett, Arch bishop of Armagh. Turn
Scholars Townhouse Hotel moderate
This splendid townhouse, built in Start at the corner of Mayoralty Street right up Duke Street and left onto Fair
1867, has some fine original features as and Bachelor’s Lane 1; turn right Street, site of the old Corn Exchange
well as a superb restaurant. There are into Bachelor’s Lane, then left onto 7. Return along Fair Street and cross
16 modestly sized but comfortable Constitution Hill. At the top is St over Peter Street into William Street.
rooms, most of which have retained
the original furnishings. Laurence’s Gate 2, dating from 1234, St Peter’s Church of Ireland 8 has a
King St; 041 983 5410; the only surviving gate of an original medieval font and ancient grave
www.scholarshotel.com 10. Walk left along Laurence Street stones. From the church, turn left
to Highlanes Gallery 3 (open Mon– down Peter Street, becoming Shop
Below The lively and historic town of Sat), once a Franciscan church and Street, and cross the river at St Mary’s
Drogheda viewed from Millmount now an art gallery with works by Bridge 9 for a view of the impressive
eminent 20th-century Boyne Viaduct (1855), with its 18
Irish artists. Note the arches. Across the road an alley leads
site of old Drogheda up to Millmount 0, the 18th-century
Grammar School 4, military barracks, now a museum (open
attended by the first daily, Sun pm only). The Martello Tower
Duke of Wellington. (1808) is built over a Norman motte.
At the intersection with To return to the start, cross the
Shop Street, The Thosel bridge, turn right for North Quay and
5 is a pretty tower (1770) The Mall, and left to Mayoralty Street.
with a large four-sided ª Leave Drogheda from South Quay,
clock. Cross over and walk turn right for M1/Belfast. Cross the river,
ahead along West Street follow signs for R132. At the roundabout
to Gothic St Peter’s take R132 for Dunleer, follow for 5 km (3
Church 6, containing the miles). At the roundabout turn left, then
preserved head of the after 1 km (half a mile) turn left again to
Irish martyr St Oliver Monasterboice. Park by the round tower.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200

158-161_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 158 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 15: Valley of the Kings 159


2 Monasterboice
Drogheda, Co Louth
Founded by St Buite in the 6th
century, this monastic settlement is
one of Ireland’s most famous religious
sites. It includes two churches and
one of Ireland’s tallest round towers
at 33 m (110 ft) high, but its greatest
treasure is the three 10th-century
Celtic High Crosses. Muiredach’s
Cross, carved with biblical scenes, is
the finest of its kind in Ireland.
ª Turn left from the car park and at
the T-junction turn right. At the R168
turn left and then take the second
right for Mellifont Abbey. Go over the Above left A 12th-century Romanesque arch,
small crossroads and into the car park. 4 Battle of the Boyne site Mellifont Abbey Above The entrance to the
Oldbridge Estate, Drogheda, Co Meath main burial chamber at Newgrange
3 Mellifont Abbey Oldbridge, on the banks of the River
Tullyallen, Drogheda, Co Louth Boyne, is the site of the most iconic
The first Cistercian abbey in Ireland, battle in Irish history– the Battle of
Mellifont (open site) was founded by the Boyne in1690 – between the
St Malachy, Archbishop of Armagh, in Protestant King William of Orange
1142. He introduced the formal style and the deposed Catholic King
of architecture used in Europe, and James II of England, who sought
Mellifont became a model for other to regain his Crown by enlisting
Cistercian centres in Ireland. It is now Catholic support in Ireland. Over SHOPPING IN DROGHEDA
a ruin, but it is possible to trace the 61,000 troops took part. William’s As well as being a light and
original ground plan, including the victory led to Protestant ascendancy contemporary space for Drogheda’s
octagonal lavabo (washing house) with in Ireland and became the source municipal art collection and
four of its Romanesque arches intact. of bitter religious divisions for more temporary exhibitions, Highlanes
The visitor centre (open Jun–Aug: daily) than 300 years. The visitor centre Gallery also houses the Louth
has a display on medieval masonry. (open daily) in Oldbridge House has Craftmark, selling ceramics, jewellery,
leatherware, candles and textiles by
ª Return to the main road, turn right multimedia presentations, and living over 50 craftworkers. Millmount
(signed Newgrange), then turn right at history displays take place at the incorporates a Design Store, which
the end of the road. At the crossroads, weekends in summer. sells the work of a silversmith, knitwear
go straight over, down the hill and ª Turn right on leaving Oldbridge designer, quilter and glass designer
over the main road. Cross the river, and then right again for Donore who have studios in Millmount.
drive alongside the canal and after a village. In Donore, turn right for
small bridge turn right for the Battle Newgrange. After 2 km (1 mile), turn EAT AND DRINK IN DROGHEDA
of the Boyne site at Oldbridge. right for Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre.
Brú Bar Bistro moderate
This contemporary building beside the
River Boyne has a good bistro on the
ground floor and a stylish cocktail bar
on the first floor. Its floor-to-ceiling
windows offer great riverside views.
Unit 8, Haymarket Northbank; 041 987
2784; www.bru.ie
De Lacy’s moderate
The D Hotel’s classy steak and seafood
diner offers a great-value four-course
set menu.
Scotch Hall; 041 987 7700;
www.delacys.ie
Eastern Seaboard Bar & Grill
moderate
This restaurant serves up a mixture
of traditional and modern cuisines.
Dishes include grilled lamb chops, a
wide range of salads and moules frites.
Dublin Road; 041 980 2570;
Above The River Boyne, near the site of the Battle of the Boyne of 1690 www.easternseaboard.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


158-161_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 159 11/09/17 12:30 pm

160 BACK ROADS IRELAND


5 Brú na Bóinne (see pp150–51), but there is a copy in
Donore, Co Meath Kells’ Heritage Centre (open daily, Sun
This incredible archaeological pm only). The monastery also has a
landscape, comprising Newgrange, 25-m (82-ft) high round tower
Dowth and Knowth, is a UNESCO surrounded by carved High Crosses.
World Heritage Site. As well as its Just outside the Heritage Centre is
famous prehistoric passage tombs, the Market Cross, dating from the
it has 49 burial mounds and many 9th century and used as a gallows
other examples of megalithic art. The during the 1798 uprising.
focal point is Newgrange, a passage ª Drive up through the town and
tomb and temple dating back to turn left and then right into Cannon
5000 BC. It is supported by 97 large Street for the round tower. Take the
kerbstones, including an elaborately R163 for Loughcrew (signposted
carved stone in front of the entrance. Oldcastle). After 15 km (9 miles) turn
Inside the mound, a 19-m (60-ft) right for Loughcrew Passage Tombs.
long passage leads to a cross-shaped
chamber that is penetrated by 8 Loughcrew Cairns
sunlight during the winter solstice. Loughcrew, Oldcastle, Co Meath
ª Leaving Brú na Bóinne, turn right. This group of 25 passage tombs,
Above Slane Castle, where Irish rock band U2 After 2 km (1 mile), look to the right for a spread over three hills, dates from
recorded the Unforgettable Fire album view of the outside of the Newgrange around 3000 BC. According to one
mound. At the next Y-junction, turn right legend, they were created by a witch,
VISITING BRÚ NA BÓINNE for Slane/N2, then right again for Slane. hence the Irish name Slieve na
Calliagh (Mountain of the Witch) for
Access to Newgrange and Knowth is 6 Slane the highest hill. To enter Cairn T,
by guided tour only (2 hours), from Co Meath Loughcrew’s largest passage tomb, pick
the Brú na Bóinne Visitor Centre The village of Slane has many up the key from the coffee shop at
(open daily; 041 988 0300; www.
newgrange.com). There is no advance attractive features including a bridge Loughcrew Gardens (open mid-Mar–
booking, so arrive early to be sure of over the River Boyne and fine 18th- Oct: daily; Nov–mid-Mar Sat & Sun; ring in
a place on a tour, especially during the century buildings. Slane Castle (open advance; 049 854 1060; www.loughcrew.
summer. There is no access to Dowth. May–Aug Sun–Thu pm) can be viewed com), 1 km (half a mile) further along
on a guided tour. Highlights include the Oldcastle road. Take a torch and
the Neo-Gothic ballroom, hallway prepare for a steep walk up to the
and bedrooms. Rock concerts are cairns from the car park. The gardens
often staged in the Capability Brown are known for their yew walk.
WHERE TO STAY grounds, where U2 recorded the ª From Loughcrew, drive back along
Unforgettable Fire album. R163 and turn right onto R154, following
SLANE Head up to the Hill of Slane, just signs for Trim through Athboy. In Trim,
Conyngham Arms Hotel moderate north of the village. It was here that park at the visitor centre near the castle.
Attractive 18th-century coaching inn St Patrick, Ireland’s patron saint, is
offering classically styled rooms, and reputed to have lit a Paschal (Easter)
also a stylish restaurant.
Main Street, Slane; 041 988 4444; fire as a challenge to the pagan
www.conynghamarms.ie High King, symbolizing Christianity’s
triumph over paganism.
AROUND LOUGHCREW CAIRNS ª From Slane, drive down the hill and
Hounslow House inexpensive turn right onto the N51. After a few
This large, relaxed farmhouse is around
16 km (10 miles) west of Kells, on the kilometres turn right onto the R163
R195 south of the cairns, and has lovely for Kells and take the next left. At the
views down to the Fore Valley. Visitors junction in Kilberry turn right, then
are greeted with tea and home baking. left to stay on the R163.
Fore, Castlepollard; 044 966 1144;
http://hounslowhouse.com; 7 Kells
open Apr–Sep only
Co Meath
AROUND HILL OF TARA A centre of Christian settlement since
Bellinter House moderate the earliest years of Christianity in
An elegant and comfortable Georgian Ireland, Kells is famous for the Book
country house in extensive grounds a
couple of kilometres (a mile) from the of Kells, an illuminated manuscript
Hill of Tara. Restaurant, pool and spa. produced by the monks of Kells
Bellinter, Navan; 046 903 0900; Monastery in around 800. The Above The round tower and one of several High
www.bellinterhouse.com original is in Trinity College, Dublin Crosses in the grounds of Kells Monastery
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


158-161_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 160 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 15: Valley of the Kings 161



















Above left Cairn T, Loughcrew’s largest cairn
9 Trim Trim Visitor Centre (open Mon–Sat; Sun Above centre View of Trim across the Boyne
Co Meath pm only) is on Castle Street. Nearby St Above right Ruins of 12th-century Bective
This pretty, historical town hugs Patrick’s Cathedral on Loman Street is Abbey, visible on the way to the Hill of Tara
the River Boyne and is dominated built on the site of a medieval church
by Trim Castle (open Easter–Oct daily; reputedly founded by St Patrick. The
Nov–Easter weekends only), Ireland’s stained glass in the west window is
largest Anglo-Norman castle, the first ever designed by Pre-
founded by Hugh de Lacy in 1173. Raphaelite artist Edward Burne-Jones.
Extensively restored, the castle is a ª Take R154 (for Athboy), then turn
breathtaking sight and was used as right onto R161. After 5 km (3 miles),
the set for the 1995 film Braveheart. turn right at crossroads for Bective.
Across the Millennium footbridge About 1 km (half a mile) past the abbey
over the Boyne stands the Belfry turn left, then right after another 5 km EAT AND DRINK
Tower (38 m/125 ft high), which is (3 miles), and left after a further 1 km
also known as the Yellow Steeple. (half a mile). Turn right for the Hill of SLANE
Built in 1368 for the original Tara after 700 m (750 yards). George’s Patisserie inexpensive
Augustinian Abbey, it later served as A terrific spot to rest up with a cup of
a watchtower. Beside the steeple 0 Hill of Tara coffee and slice of sachertorte, or light
is Talbot Castle or St Mary’s Abbey, Co Meath meals of soups and sandwiches.
Chapel Street; 041 982 4493;
built in 1415 over the original abbey. The Hill of Tara (guided tours mid-May– www.georgespatisserie.com
In the 18th century, it became an mid-Sep daily) was, according to
exclusive Protestant school. Sheep tradition, the seat of Ireland’s High TRIM
Gate is the last surviving gateway of Kings, who ruled until the Norman Marcie Regan’s
the medieval town and further east takeover in the 12th century. Some Well-known pub beside one of
the oldest bridges in the country.
along the river are the remains of 142 kings were supposedly crowned Traditional music on Friday evenings.
the 13th-century Gothic cathedral, here. The tour explains the myths and Lackanash Rd, Newtown; 087 310 4304;
Newtown Abbey. legends around the hilltop enclosure open from 9pm, closed Wed
St Peter’s Bridge, thought to be and its Stone of Destiny, said to cry HILL OF TARA
the second oldest bridge in Ireland, out when touched by the new king.
leads to the ruins of the Hospital The hill offers outstanding views and O’Connells Pub
Characterful pub in tiny village.
of St John the Baptist, founded by it is said that on a clear day 23 of Skryne Hill, near Tara; 046 902 5122;
monks in the 13th century. Ireland’s 32 counties can be seen. open from 4pm, Sun also lunch
DAY TRIP OPTIONS St Patrick challenged the High Kings. High Cross: 5.5 m (18 ft) high and
Drogheda is a good base for these richly carved with biblical scenes.
excursions into the Boyne Valley. Take R132, then N51 to the Boyne battle
site. Next follow the drive instructions Follow drive instructions there and back.
Historical trio to Brú na Bóinne, then on to Slane, and Medieval Trim
Combine three sites charting key return to Drogheda on the N51.
periods in Ireland’s history – the Explore Trim’s 9 splendid medieval
churches, castle and monastic hospital.
Battle of the Boyne site 4, the High Crosses and round towers
passage tombs at Brú na Bóinne 5 Monasterboice 2 has one of Ireland’s Take R132 and N51 to Navan, then R161
and the Hill of Slane 6, where tallest round towers and its finest to Trim. Retrace route to Drogheda.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


158-161_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 161 11/09/17 12:30 pm

162-163_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 162 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro

NORTHERN
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
IRELAND
IRELAND
IRELAND
Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
OF IRELAND
OF IRELAND
OF IRELAND
OF IRELAND
Galway
Dublin
Galway
Dublin
Galway
Galway
Galway
Limerick
Limerick
Limerick
Limerick
Limerick
Wexford
Wexford
Wexford
Wexford
Killarney
Cork
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
IRELAND
IRELAND
IRELAND
Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
OF IRELAND
Galway
OF IRELAND
OF IRELAND
OF IRELAND
OF IRELAND
Galway
Dublin
Dublin
Galway
Dublin
Dublin
Galway
Dublin
Galway
Limerick
Limerick
Limerick
Wexford
Wexford
Wexford
Wexford
Killarney
Killarney
Killarney
Cork
Cork
Cork
Cork
Cork
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
NORTHERN
IRELAND
Belfast
IRELAND
Belfast
IRELAND
IRELAND
IRELAND
Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Sligo
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
OF IRELAND
REPUBLIC
Dublin
REPUBLIC
Galway
REPUBLIC
OF IRELAND
Dublin
Galway
OF IRELAND
Dublin
Galway
Dublin
Galway
Galway
Dublin
OF IRELAND
Limerick
Limerick
Limerick
Limerick
Limerick
Wexford
Wexford
Wexford
Wexford
Wexford
Killarney
Killarney
Killarney
Killarney
Killarney
Cork
Cork
Cork
Cork
Cork
DRIVE 16 Cork OF IRELAND Wexford Killarney Limerick OF IRELAND Dundalk Killarney Killarney Cork NORTHERN Dublin Killarney Killarney Cork NORTHERN Dublin Killarney Limerick Cork NORTHERN Dublin
NORTHERN NORTHERN NORTHERN NORTHERN NORTHERN
IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND IRELAND
Belfast Belfast Belfast Belfast Belfast
Sligo Sligo Sligo Sligo Sligo
Dundalk Dundalk Dundalk Dundalk Dundalk
REPUBLIC REPUBLIC REPUBLIC REPUBLIC
Galway Dublin Galway OF IRELAND Dublin Galway OF IRELAND Dublin Galway OF IRELAND Dublin Galway OF IRELAND Dublin
REPUBLIC
OF IRELAND Limerick Limerick Limerick Limerick
Wexford Wexford Wexford Wexford Wexford
Killarney Killarney Killarney Killarney Killarney
Cork Cork Cork Cork Cork
Heart of the
Lakelands
NORTHERN NORTHERN Belfast NORTHERN NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
Athlone to Sligo IRELAND Dundalk Sligo NORTHERN Sligo IRELAND Belfast Sligo Belfast
Belfast
Belfast
IRELAND
Sligo
Dundalk
Dundalk
Dundalk
Strokestown Galway OF IRELAND Dublin Galway OF IRELAND Dublin Galway OF IRELAND Dublin Galway OF IRELAND Dublin
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
REPUBLIC
OF IRELAND
Galway
Dublin
Park House Killarney Limerick Wexford Killarney Limerick Wexford Killarney Limerick Wexford Killarney Limerick Wexford
Limerick
Wexford
Killarney
Cork Cork Cork Cork Cork
Highlights
• Spiritual Clonmacnoise
Experience the ethereal beauty of
this great 6th-century religious site
• Scenic walks
Hike into the foothills and forests
of the Slieve Bloom Mountains in
the south of the region
• Ancient peat bogs
Discover the magic of the bogs, their
flora and fauna and the archaeological
remains preserved within them
• Stately homes and gardens
Explore the grounds of Birr Castle,
Belvedere House and Strokestown
Park House
The round tower at Clonmacnoise,
overlooking the tranquil Shannon
162-163_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 163 11/09/17 12:30 pm

164 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Heart of the Lakelands
Ballygarden
Ballygarden
Kilglass
Kilglass
Cloonart
Though often overlooked by visitors to Ireland, the STROKESTOWN Lough Cloonart
Lough
Forbes
Lakelands has plenty of history, scenery and character, Tulsk STROKESTOWN Scramoge Forbes Newtown
PARK HOUSE
Newtown
PARK HOUSE
Tulsk
Scramoge
Forbes
Cloonmore
its special highlight being the medieval monastic Cloonmore Forbes Argar
Argar
settlement of Clonmacnoise, a European centre of Clashaganny Termonbarry
Clashaganny
Termonbarry
Longford
Slieve
trade and learning founded in 545. It also has bustling Tully Tully Slieve Curraghroe Longford Corboy
Corboy
Curraghroe
Bawn
Bawn
Upper
heritage towns containing age-old whiskey distilleries, Four Mile Aghamuck Shannon Upper
Four Mile
Aghamuck
House
LONGFORD
Norman castles and grand Georgian estates. Its House Shannon Killashee LONGFORD Edgeworthstown
landscapes include ancient boglands, rich in wildlife Ballyclare Killashee Moydow Edgeworthstown
Ballyclare
Ardagh Crossea
and archaeolgical finds, and the Slieve Bloom Ballyleague Lanesborough Moydow Ardagh Crossea Rathowen
Lanesborough
Ballyleague
Mountains, undulating wooded hills crisscrossed Roscommon Turreen Keel Keel Lenaboy Rathowen
Lenaboy
Turreen
Rathaspick
with hiking trails. Roscommon Carrowroe Keenagh Carrickboy Rathaspick Ballinalack Multyfarnham
Ballinalack
Carrowroe
Corlea Keenagh
Carrickboy
Castlecoote
Castlecoote Corlea Inny Multyfarnham
CORLEA TRACKWAY
Ballymurray
Fuerty
Fuerty Ballymurray CORLEA TRACKWAY Colehill Inny Bunbrosna
Bunbrosna
CENTRE
CENTRE
Newtown
Newtown Foygh Colehill Ballynagarrigy Portnashangan
Royal Canal
Knockcroghery
Balrath
Knockcroghery Foygh Royal Canal Ballynagarrigy Balrath Portnashangan
Athleague
Athleague Carrowrory Ballymahon Lough
Lough
Ballymahon
ROSCOMMON
ROSCOMMON Carrowrory Forgney Slane Beg Owel
Owel
Slane Beg
Forgney
Lecarrow
Lackan
Moyvore
Lackan Rahara Lecarrow Moyvore
Tang
Mullingar
Rathconrath
Lough
Mount Talbot
Cloncullen
Mount Talbot Rahara Lough Tang Cloncullen Rathconrath Mullingar
Lough
Lough
Ree
Funshinagh
Hopestown
Funshinagh Ree Hopestown
The Pigeons
The Pigeons Ballymore Loughanavally Lynn
Ballymore
Lynn
Curraghboy
Thomas
BELVEDERE
Thomas Curraghboy Kiltoom Loughanavally BELVEDERE
Killar
Lough
Glasson
Street
Drumraney
Street Kiltoom Glasson Drumraney Killar Lough HOUSE AND
Ennell HOUSE AND
WESTMEA TH
Ennell
GARDENS
GARDENS
Ballykeeran
Corrantotan
Castletown
Brideswell
Mount
Ballyglass
Geoghegan
Ballyglass Brideswell Corrantotan Ballykeeran Mount WESTMEA TH Castletown Dalystown
Geoghegan
Moyroughly
Moyroughly
Temple
Dalystown
Streamstown
Temple
Bealin
Bellanamullia
Bellanamullia Bealin Rosemount Streamstown Rochfortbridge
Killeglan
ATHLONE
Killeglan ATHLONE Rosemount Ballynagore Rochfortbridge
Ballynagore
Dundonnell
Moate
Dundonnell Moate
Horseleap
Fardrum
Fardrum Horseleap
Tyrellspass
Boyanagh
Boyanagh KILBEGGAN Tyrellspass
Tober
Cornafulla
Dooghan
Dooghan Cornafulla Ballynakill Tober KILBEGGAN
Shannon
Attirory
Attirory Shannon Ballynahown Ballynakill
Ballynahown
Kiltober
Clara
Ballinasloe
Ballinasloe Clara Kiltober
Ballaghurt
Kilconfert
Togher
Ballaghurt Togher Kilconfert
CLONMACNOISE
CLONMACNOISE Ballycumber Derrygolan
Ballycumber
Derrygolan
Above The Jealous Wall, a folly with an intriguing history, in the grounds of Belvedere Rashinagh Derrygrogan
Cloonfad
House, see pp168–9 Cloonfad Rashinagh Leabeg Derrygrogan
Suck Leabeg
Rahan
Suck Rahan
Brosna
Grand Canal
TULLAMORE
Shannonbridge
Shannonbridge Ferbane Brosna Grand Canal TULLAMORE
Charleville
Charleville
Bellmount
Bellmount Ferbane Forest Castle Clonmore
Clonmore
OFF AL Y
Forest Castle
ACTIVITIES Laurencetown OFF AL Y Screggan Clonminch
Clonminch
Grand Canal
Laurencetown
Grand Canal
Screggan
Clonony
Clonony
Coolacurn
Coolacurn Blue Ball
Blue Ball
Take a boat trip from Athlone and listen to Cloghan Lough Garbally
Cloghan
Lough
Boora Garbally
Killurin
tales of Nordic valour Eyrecourt Esker Boora Killurin
Eyrecourt
Esker
Mountbolus
Broughal
Broughal Mountbolus
Banagher
Explore seven ruined temples at the ancient Banagher Ballyboy
Kilcormac
monastic complex of Clonmacnoise Taylors Cross Kilcormac Ballyboy Annaghbrack
Annaghbrack
Taylors Cross
Coolaghcross
See the Great Telescope in the grounds of Shannon Little Brosna Coolaghcross Clonaslee
Birr Castle Shannon Rapemills Rath Rath Clonaslee
Rapemills
Little Brosna
Craigue
Cadamstown
Tour haunted corridors at Charleville Forest Craigue Killyon Cadamstown
Killyon
Slieve Bloom
Castle, near Tullamore BIRR
Mountains
Mountains
BIRR Kinnitty
Kinnitty
SLIEVE BLOOM
Riverstown
Taste fine Irish whiskey at Tullamore Dew Riverstown Clareen SLIEVE BLOOM Slieve Bloom
MOUNTAINS
Visitor Centre Clareen MOUNTAINS
Stroll down the longest herbaceous KEY
border in all of Britain and Ireland in the Drive route
grounds of Strokestown Park House
164-165_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 164 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 03rd March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
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DRIVE 16: Heart of the Lakelands 165


PLAN YOUR DRIVE
Ballygarden
Ballygarden
Kilglass
Kilglass Lough Cloonart 0 kilometres 10
Cloonart
Lough
STROKESTOWN
Forbes
STROKESTOWN Forbes Start/finish: Athlone to Strokestown
Park House.
Newtown
PARK HOUSE
Tulsk
Scramoge
Tulsk PARK HOUSE Scramoge Newtown 0 miles 10
Forbes
Cloonmore
Cloonmore Forbes
Argar
Argar Number of days: 2 days.
Clashaganny
Clashaganny Termonbarry Distance: 210 km (130 miles).
Termonbarry
Longford
Slieve
Tully Tully Slieve Curraghroe Longford Corboy
Bawn
Bawn Curraghroe Corboy
Upper
Upper
Four Mile
Four Mile Aghamuck Shannon Road conditions: Some minor roads,
Aghamuck
House
LONGFORD
House Shannon Killashee LONGFORD particularly on the way to
Edgeworthstown
Ballyclare
Ballyclare Killashee Edgeworthstown Clonmacnoise and Keenagh, are
Moydow
Moydow Ardagh Crossea narrow with no road markings.
Ardagh Crossea
Lanesborough
Ballyleague
Ballyleague Lanesborough Rathowen Opening times: Most shops and
Rathowen
Lenaboy
Turreen
Rathaspick
Roscommon
Roscommon Turreen Keel Keel Lenaboy Rathaspick attractions open 9am–6pm. Shops
Ballinalack
Carrowroe
Corlea Keenagh
Carrickboy
Multyfarnham
Castlecoote
Castlecoote Carrowroe Corlea Keenagh Carrickboy Inny Ballinalack Multyfarnham open Mon–Sat, also 12–6pm on Sun.
CORLEA TRACKWAY
Ballymurray
Fuerty
Fuerty Ballymurray CORLEA TRACKWAY Colehill Inny Bunbrosna Convenience stores open 8am–late.
Bunbrosna
CENTRE
CENTRE
Newtown
Newtown Foygh Colehill Ballynagarrigy Portnashangan
Knockcroghery
Royal Canal
Balrath
Knockcroghery Foygh Royal Canal Ballynagarrigy Balrath Portnashangan When to go: Spring through autumn
Athleague
Athleague Carrowrory Ballymahon Lough is best. Roads may be icy in winter.
Lough
Ballymahon
ROSCOMMON
ROSCOMMON Carrowrory Forgney Slane Beg Owel Main market days: Athlone: Farmers’
Owel
Slane Beg
Forgney
Lecarrow
Lackan
Moyvore
Lackan Rahara Lecarrow Moyvore Market, Sat; Tullamore: County Fair
Mullingar
Tang
Lough
Rathconrath
Mount Talbot
Cloncullen
Mount Talbot Rahara Lough Tang Cloncullen Rathconrath Mullingar (food and drink), Sat; Birr: St Brendan’s
Lough
Lough
Ree
Funshinagh
Funshinagh Ree Hopestown Market, Fri pm (Emmet St).
Hopestown
The Pigeons
The Pigeons Ballymore Loughanavally Lynn
Ballymore
Lynn
Curraghboy
Thomas
BELVEDERE
Thomas Curraghboy Kiltoom Loughanavally BELVEDERE Shopping: Buy Tullamore Dew whiskey
Killar
Glasson
Lough
Drumraney
Street
Street Kiltoom Glasson Drumraney Killar Lough HOUSE AND in the distillery where it was first made.
Ennell HOUSE AND
WESTMEA TH
Ennell
GARDENS
GARDENS
Ballykeeran
Corrantotan
Castletown
Brideswell
Mount
Ballyglass
Geoghegan
Ballyglass Brideswell Corrantotan Ballykeeran Mount WESTMEA TH Castletown Dalystown Main festivals: Athlone: Trifest (music,
Geoghegan
sport), Jul; Slieve Bloom Mountains:
Moyroughly
Moyroughly
Dalystown
Temple
Streamstown
Temple
Bealin
Bellanamullia
Bellanamullia Bealin Rosemount Streamstown Rochfortbridge Slieve Bloom Walking Festival, Apr/May.
Killeglan
ATHLONE
Killeglan ATHLONE Rosemount Ballynagore Rochfortbridge
Ballynagore
Dundonnell
Moate
Dundonnell Moate
Horseleap
Fardrum
Fardrum Horseleap
Tyrellspass
Boyanagh
Boyanagh KILBEGGAN Tyrellspass DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Tober
Cornafulla
Dooghan
Dooghan Cornafulla Ballynakill Tober KILBEGGAN
Shannon
Attirory
Attirory Shannon Ballynahown Ballynakill Combine scenery, culture and
Ballynahown
Clara
Kiltober
Ballinasloe
Ballinasloe Clara Kiltober family fun by travelling to
Kilconfert
Ballaghurt
Togher
Ballaghurt Togher Kilconfert
CLONMACNOISE
CLONMACNOISE Ballycumber Derrygolan Clonmacnoise on a Viking boat.
Ballycumber
Derrygolan
Or learn about Ireland’s industrial
Rashinagh
Derrygrogan
Cloonfad
Cloonfad Rashinagh Derrygrogan heritage at Tullamore, then explore
Leabeg
Leabeg
Suck
Rahan
Brosna
Suck Rahan the wooded slopes of the Slieve
Grand Canal
TULLAMORE
Shannonbridge
Shannonbridge Ferbane Brosna Grand Canal TULLAMORE Bloom Mountains and admire
Charleville
Charleville
Bellmount
Bellmount Ferbane OFF AL Y Forest Castle Clonmore Georgian Birr. For full details, see p169.
Clonmore
Forest Castle
Clonminch
Grand Canal
Laurencetown
Grand Canal
Screggan
Laurencetown OFF AL Y Screggan Clonminch
Clonony
Clonony
Coolacurn
Coolacurn Blue Ball Below Birr Castle Gardens, one of Ireland’s
Blue Ball
Cloghan
Cloghan Lough Garbally grandest 18th-century estates, see p166
Lough
Boora Garbally
Killurin
Esker
Eyrecourt
Eyrecourt Esker Boora Killurin
Mountbolus
Broughal
Broughal Mountbolus
Banagher
Banagher Ballyboy
Kilcormac
Annaghbrack
Kilcormac Ballyboy Annaghbrack
Taylors Cross
Taylors Cross
Shannon
Shannon Little Brosna Rapemills Rath Rath Coolaghcross Clonaslee
Coolaghcross
Clonaslee
Rapemills
Little Brosna
Craigue
Cadamstown
Craigue Cadamstown
Killyon
Slieve Bloom
Killyon
Mountains
BIRR
Mountains
BIRR Kinnitty
Kinnitty
SLIEVE BLOOM
Riverstown
Riverstown SLIEVE BLOOM Slieve Bloom
MOUNTAINS
Clareen
Clareen MOUNTAINS
164-165_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 165 11/09/17 12:30 pm

166 BACK ROADS IRELAND


Right The Grand Canal, a tranquil waterway
that crosses County Offaly



WHERE TO STAY
ATHLONE
Bastion Townhouse inexpensive
A former draper’s shop, this charming
townhouse offers simple rooms and
excellent breakfast in the
neighbouring Bastion Kitchen.
2 Bastion St; 090 649 4954;
www.thebastion.net
AROUND ATHLONE 1 Athlone flowing north–south and a glacial
Wineport Lodge moderate–expensive Co Westmeath ridge forming the main road east–
Lodge on Lough Ree with good food, Situated on a ford on the River west, it became a hub of scholarship
lake views and a rooftop hot-tub. From Shannon, Athlone Castle (open and trade, and many kings of Tara
Athlone, take the N55 to Ballykeeran Easter–Sep) was built in 1210 for King and of Connaught were buried here.
and fork left at the Dog & Duck pub.
Glasson, Athlone; 090 643 9010; John of England. An important Plundered by Vikings and Anglo-
www.wineport.ie military barracks, it twice came under Normans, it was finally devastated by
siege from Williamite troops after the the English in 1552.
BIRR Battle of the Boyne (see page 159), The ruins comprise two round
Townsend House inexpensive falling in the second siege of 1691. towers, a cathedral and seven
Guesthouse in a 19th-century
townhouse in the centre of Birr. Athlone is a departure point for churches (temples). Look for the
Townsend St; 057 912 1276; boat trips on the Shannon and carvings of saints Francis, Patrick and
www.townsendhouseguesthouse.com Lough Ree. The company Adventure Dominic above the cathedral’s north
Viking Cruise offers boat trips to doorway, known as the Whispering
AROUND BIRR Clonmacnoise aboard a Viking-style Door on account of its acoustics. The
Charlotte’s Way inexpensive
This restored 17th-century townhouse boat, accompanied by tales of Viking Visitor Centre contains early grave
on Banagher Hill in the Midlands, has battles and buried treasure. slabs and crosses, including the Cross
associations with 19th-century writer ª From Athlone, take the N6 (Dublin) of the Scriptures, a 9th-century high
Charlotte Brontë, who stayed here and road and then the N62 towards Birr. At cross carved with biblical scenes.
whose husband lived here after her Ballynahown, turn right onto the R444 ª Take the R444 to Shannonbridge
death. There are great views of the
surrounding countryside. to Clonmacnoise. and then turn left onto the R357 to
The Hill, Banagher (take R439 from Cloghan. Here, turn right onto the N62
Birr), Co Offaly; 057 915 3864; 2 Clonmacnoise for Birr. The entrance to Birr Castle
www.charlottesway.com Shannonbridge, Co Offaly Gardens is in the centre of Birr.
Founded by St Ciarán in around AD
Below The terraced gardens at Birr Castle 549, this monastic complex (open 3 Birr
Below right Clonmacnoise’s 9th-century daily) lies on an important medieval Co Offaly
round tower on the banks of the Shannon crossroads. With the Shannon This handsome estate town retains
its original Georgian layout and
architectural details. Birr Castle
(gardens open daily), seat of the
Earls of Rosse, is famous for its
landscaped grounds, containing 8 km
(5 miles) of footpaths and thousands
of rare trees and plants. Also in the
grounds are the Great Telescope, the
largest in the world when it was built
in the 1840s, and the Historic Science
Centre, devoted to engineering,
astronomy, botany and photography,
passions of the 19th-century earls.
ª From Birr, take the R440 to
Kinnitty. Drive 3 km (2 miles) beyond
Kinnitty for the entrance to Kinnitty
Forest in the Slieve Bloom Mountains.




166-169_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 166 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
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DRIVE 16: Heart of the Lakelands 167


4 Slieve Bloom Mountains
Co Offaly
The Slieve Bloom Mountains rise unexpectedly from the flat
landscape of Offaly. Crisscrossed with walking trails and dotted with
picnic areas and viewpoints, they include blanket boglands, forests
and farmland, and are rich in wildlife. Kinnitty Forest offers a variety
of signposted walks from the entrance in the northern foothills.

A two- to three-hour walk in woodland, following the blue arrow
Kinnitty Forest and the Slieve Bloom Way.
From the car park 1 at the entrance On reaching a forestry road, turn
to Kinnitty Forest, follow the path into right and after 200 m (656 ft) turn left
the forest. At the Y-junction keep left, at a three-way junction, veering left
following the Glinsk Castle Loop Walk, almost immediately afterwards, still
the trail marked with the blue arrow following the Slieve Bloom Way.
(the green arrow is for the shorter Climb the hill and turn right at the Above Kinnitty Castle, a Gothic Revival
Kinnitty Castle Loop and the yellow track junction. After another 600 m mansion in Kinnitty Forest
arrow marks the Slieve Bloom Way, (1,968 ft) leave the Slieve Bloom Way
an 84-km/52-mile and turn right onto a
loop). After about 1 km woodland trail leading
(half a mile), the trail to Glinsk Castle 3,
reaches a three-way now little more than
junction with a wooden stone pillars and walls.
gate to the left. Pass Follow the trail
through the gate and through the pillars and
into the grounds of over the hill, and keep
Kinnitty Castle 2, a on downhill through
Gothic Revival castle in the trees, rejoining the
extensive parkland, Slieve Bloom Way at a
for a long time run forest track. Turn right
as a luxury hotel. The stables at here and, after a short
Returning to the Kinnitty Castle distance, turn left onto
gate, follow the trail a forestry trail. Follow VISITING ATHLONE
right, walking uphill the track downhill,
along a forest track for 1 km (half a through mature trees, and cross Parking
mile) to a right bend and then to a two forestry tracks back to the Plentiful pay-and-display on-street
parking is available.
Y-junction. Keep right, following the starting point. Tourist Information
green and blue arrows. ª Return to Kinnitty and turn right Athlone Castle; 090 649 4630; open
Turn left after a short distance onto the R421 for Tullamore, passing Easter–Oct
heading uphill through mature through Cadamstown. River Cruises
Viking Ship Cruises, The Quay; 086 262
0 metres 500 1136; www.vikingtoursireland.ie
0 yards 500
Kinnitty
Castle
EAT AND DRINK IN ATHLONE
Sean’s Bar inexpensive
Glinsk Castle
Dating back to 900 AD, this is the
oldest pub in Ireland. It has a cosy
atmosphere and lots of interesting
features, including a sloping floor in
case of flooding from the river.
13 Main St; 090 649 2358;
www.seansbar.ie
Left Bank Bistro moderate
Sophisticated restaurant on the banks
of the Shannon near the Athlone lock.
Forest Loads of great seafood alongside
Entrance
some Asian-influenced dishes.
Fry Place; 090 649 4446; www.
leftbankbistro.com; closed Sun & Mon
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50
166-169_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 167 11/09/17 12:30 pm

168 BACK ROADS IRELAND


6 Kilbeggan
Co Westmeath
Established in 1757, Kilbeggan
Distillery (open daily) is thought to be
the oldest pot-still distillery in the
world. Harnessing local resources –
pure water, grain and turf (used for
power), it produced malt whiskey for
200 years until, unable to compete
with Scottish whisky manufacturers,
it went bankrupt in 1954. The aroma
of whiskey – the small percentage
that evaporates from the barrels as it
matures and is known as the angels’
share – hung around for years. The
distillery museum now offers guided
tours of the grain grinding and casking
equipment and the steam engine and
waterwheel that powered the mill.
ª Take the M6 towards Mullingar. At
Above left Iron-studded portal, Charleville Tyrellspass, turn left onto the N52 for
Forest Castle Above right Gothic-style 5 Tullamore Mullingar. Belvedere House is on the
crenellations, Charleville Forest Castle Co Offaly left, 5 km (3 miles) before Mullingar.
On the outskirts of Tullamore, a gate
lodge on the left marks the entrance 7 Belvedere House and
to Charleville Forest Castle, a Gothic- Gardens
style mansion that is said to be Mullingar, Co Westmeath
haunted. Ring the bell for guided The Palladian villa (open daily), built in
tours (on the hour in summer; pre-book 1740 by Richard Castle for the Earl of
by email the rest of the year: info@ Belvedere, is set in extensive grounds
charlevillecastle.com). beside Lough Ennell. The interior is
This Midlands town is also the known for its Rococo plasterwork,
birthplace of Tullamore Dew Irish
whiskey. The Tullamore Dew Visitor Peat Bogs
Centre (open daily) on Bury Quay (in The Lakelands has an abundance
the centre of town) offers guided of peat bogs, formed up to 10,000
tours and tastings in the old distillery years ago from compressed
WHERE TO STAY AROUND buildings. It also explains the role vegetation in waterlogged ground.
STROKESTOWN PARK HOUSE played by the Grand Canal, running Some have yielded amazing
archaeological finds such as the
alongside the distillery and Corlea Trackway. Long harvested
Gleesons Townhouse moderate
Pretty 19th-century townhouse in the connecting Tullamore with Dublin. for fuel, some are now protected
centre of Roscommon, with a popular ª Take the N52 north to Kilbeggan. habitats for flora and fauna.
restaurant and café. Situated 20 km Kilbeggan Distillery is in the centre.
(12 miles) south of Strokestown (take
the R368 south and turn left at the
junction with the N61).
Market Square, Roscommon; 090 662
6954; www.gleesonstownhouse.com
Castlecoote House
moderate–expensive
Romantic and luxurious Georgian
house with four-poster beds, roll-top
baths, tennis courts, a croquet lawn
and an orchard. Situated 28 km
(17 miles) southwest of Strokestown.
Castlecoote, Co Roscommon; 090 666
3794; www.castlecootehouse.com;
closed Nov–mid-Apr
Right Copper pot-still at Kilbeggan
Distillery, Kilbeggan, established in 1757
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


166-169_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 168 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
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DRIVE 16: Heart of the Lakelands 169


















Above left Pergola over the long herbaceous
while exterior highlights include a 9 Strokestown Park House border in Strokestown Park Gardens Above
Victorian walled garden and the Strokestown, Co Roscommon Strokestown Park House, the finest Palladian
Jealous Wall folly – built to block the The splendid Palladian mansion mansion in County Roscommon
view of a more opulent mansion of Strokestown Park House (open
belonging to the Earl’s brother. mid-Mar–Oct), the finest in County
The Earl believed his brother was Roscommon, was built in the 1730s.
conducting an affair with his wife, The original furnishings can be seen
whom he punished by imprisoning on guided tours of the interior, while
her in her own home for 31 years. the stable block houses the Famine
ª From Belvedere, take the R400 Museum, telling the story of the
to Mullingar and then the R392 to 1840s Great Famine through
Ballymahon. Corlea is 6 km (4 miles) documents of the time. The Garden
after Ballymahon. The Corlea includes the longest herbaceous
Trackway Centre is to the right. border in Britain and Ireland and a
Georgian fruit and vegetable garden.
8 Corlea Trackway Centre
Keenagh, Co Longford EAT AND DRINK AROUND
STROKESTOWN PARK HOUSE
An Iron Age timber bog road
believed to have been constructed Keenans moderate
in 148 BC, the Corlea Trackway is the Modern restaurant built onto a
largest example of its kind to be traditional bar in the tiny village of
uncovered in Europe. Its remarkable Termonbarry on the River Shannon,
state of preservation is due to the 13 km (8 miles) along the N5 east of
Strokestown. Serves good modern
anaerobic conditions of the bog in European dishes.
which it eventually sank. The Centre Termonbarry, Co Roscommon;
(open Apr–Sep) has an 18-m (60-ft) 043 332 6098; www.keenans.ie
stretch of road on display. The Purple Onion moderate
ª From Corlea, turn right onto the Good food using locally sourced
R392, taking the R371 for Strokestown ingredients, and cosy booths for
after Lanesborough and then turning discreet dining. There is also an art
gallery above the bar. In Termonbarry,
left at the N5. At the roundabout take 13 km (8 miles) east of Strokestown.
the third exit onto Bawn Street and Above The gently rolling parkland Termonbarry, Co Roscommon; 043 335
drive into Strokestown Park House. surrounding Belvedere House 9919; www.purpleonion.ie
DAY TRIP OPTIONS churches. One of the nicest ways of then drive to Kinnitty for a walk in
Athlone is an ideal base from which getting there is on a Viking-style the Slieve Bloom Mountains 4. Next,
to visit the religious and historic sites boat. Trips depart from Athlone. head to Georgian Birr 3 and Birr
of the Lakelands. Castle Gardens with its Historic
Take a boat from Athlone or follow the
The Shannon river drive instructions. Science Centre and Great Telescope.
From Athlone 1, follow the Look and learn From Athlone, take the M6/N52 to
Shannon to Clonmacnoise 2, an Find out about the industrial history Tullamore, then the R421 to the Slieve
important monastic site, bristling of the Lakelands in Tullamore 5, Bloom Mountains. Take the R440 to
with crosses, a round tower and Birr, returning to Athlone on the N62.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


166-169_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 169 11/09/17 12:30 pm

BR_IR_170-171_Opener17.indd 170 23/10/09 14:29:33
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
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Connemara
and its Loughs
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Highlights
• Bustling Clifden
Stroll around the delightful harbour
town and “capital” of Connemara
• Coastal beauty
Explore the glorious coastline and
take a boat out to Inishbofin Island
• Mountain valleys
Experience the magical atmosphere
and sublime beauty of empty valleys
and mountain passes
• Lakeland splendour
Drive round, swim in or picnic on the
shores of the some the largest and
most spectacular loughs in Ireland
View across the vast expanse of Lough Mask
from Mauntrasna
BR_IR_170-171_Opener17.indd 171 23/10/09 14:29:36

172 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Connemara and its Loughs

It is said that “for every star God put in the sky, he laid a million stones on
Connemara”. An exaggeration, yes, but this rocky, mostly treeless terrain is Islandeady
Islandeady
Lough
part of what makes up the enigmatic beauty of the region. This drive takes Carrahelly Drumneen Lough Cloonkeen
Carrahelly
Drumneen
Cloonkeen
on several facets of Connemara: the bog-mantled moorland and sea-bitten Westport
Westport
Bay
Bay
Westport
Ballyhean
western coastline around Clifden; the dramatic, mountainous landscapes of Killadangan Westport Killadeer Ballyhean
Killadeer
Killadangan
the north; and, to the southeast, a place of tranquil, watery vistas – for all Leckanvy BALLINTUBBER
BALLINTUBBER
Leckanvy
Claureen
ABBEY
this wild and hilly terrain drains into some of the most beautiful and Croagh Patrick Knappagh Aghagower Claureen ABBEY
Knappagh
Croagh Patrick
Aghagower
765m
765m
Killavally
majestic loughs in Ireland. Killavally Clogher
Clogher
Mullagh
Mullagh
Owenwee
Owenwee
Ballintubber
Liscarney Ballintubber
Liscarney
Carrownisky
Carrownisky Cordarragh
Cordarragh
Derrynamuck
Carrownacon
Lough Derrynamuck Carrownacon
Lough
Drummin
Killeen
Killeen Drummin Moher Bohaun
Moher
Bohaun
MA YO
Leenavesta
Leenavesta
Inishturk Cregganbaun MA YO Partry
Inishturk
Cregganbaun
Partry
Srah
Cuilmore
Cuilmore (An tSraith) Srah
(An tSraith)
Lough
Glennagashleeny
Ballygarries
Kinnadoohy Glennagashleeny Lough Ballygarries
Kinnadoohy
(Gleann na gCaislíní)
Inishdalla Famine Walk (Gleann na gCaislíní) Carra
Inishdalla
Famine Walk
S he eff r y
Carra
P a r t r y M o u n t a i n s
Memorial S he eff r y
Memorial
TAWNYARD
Dooaghtry DOOLOUGH
Toormakeady
Dooaghtry DOOLOUGH H i l l s H i l l s TAWNYARD Toormakeady Black Black
PASS
Knockglass
(Tuar Mhic Éadaigh)
INISHBOFIN
INISHBOFIN Mweelrea PASS (Tuar Mhic Éadaigh) Knockglass
Tawnyard
Mweelrea
ISLAND
ISLAND Davillaun DELPHI VALLEY Tawnyard P a r t r y M o u n t a i n s Lough Levally
Levally
Lough
Davillaun
Lough
Lough
DELPHI VALLEY
Bengorm
Mauntrasna
702m Bengorm Mauntrasna
702m
Mask Ballinrobe
Carrowmore
Bofin Bofin Aasleagh 673m 673m Mask Ballinrobe Carrowmore
Aasleagh
Bundorragh
Inishlyon
Inishlyon Bundorragh
Renvyle
Inishark Renvyle Gowlaun Plains of Eller tr in
Inishark
Plains of Eller tr in
Gowlaun
Ballinchalla
Mauntrasna
Mauntrasna
KILLARY HARBOUR
Cashleen KILLARY HARBOUR (Mám Trasna) LOUGHS MASK Ballinchalla
Cashleen
(Mám Trasna)
LOUGHS MASK
Ballylassa
& LEENANE Leenane
Tully Cross Lough & LEENANE Leenane Cullin Beg & NAFOOEY Ballylassa
Tully Cross
& NAFOOEY
Lough
KYLEMORE
KYLEMORE Fee Fee Cullin Beg Lough Finny Finny Barna Neale Kilmaine
Barna
Neale
Kilmaine
(Fionnaithe)
(Fionnaithe)
Lough
ABBEY
ABBEY Nafooey
Cleggan
Emlagh
Emlagh Cleggan Letterfrack Nafooey
Letterfrack
Kildun
Clonbur
Al Dubh Pass
Bohaun
Kylemore
Aughrus More
Knockroe
Aughrus More Kylemore Al Dubh Pass Bohaun Clonbur Kildun Cross Knockroe
(An Fhairche)
(An Fhairche)
Inagh
(Bothán)
(Bothán)
Inagh
Cross
Claddaghduff
Moyard CONNEMARA
Letterbreckanu
OMEY ISLAND
Mount Gable
OMEY ISLAND Claddaghduff Moyard CONNEMARA Letterbreckanu 669m Mount Gable
669m
CONG
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARK Benbaun Maumturk Mountains Kilmeelicken 418m 418m CONG
Benbaun
Kilmeelicken
MAUM
Brodullagh
Shrule
SKY ROAD 730m 730m (Béal Átha na MAUM Brodullagh Shrule
(Béal Átha na
SKY ROAD
Lough
mBreac)
(An Mám)
Streamstown The Twelve Bens Lough mBreac) (An Mám) Ballynalty
Ballynalty
Inagh
Inagh
Inishturk
Cornamona
Inishturk Kingstown Streamstown C o n n e m a r a Cornamona LOUGH
Kingstown
The Twelve Bens
LOUGH
Doolaun
(Corr na Móna)
(Corr na Móna) CORRIB Inish- Black Black Doolaun
Inish-
CORRIB
C o n n e m a r a
Maumturk Mountains
micatreer
CLIFDEN
CLIFDEN Claggan micatreer
Claggan
GAL W A Y
Errislannan
Errislannan Lettershea GAL W A Y (An Cloigeann) Farravaun Inchagoil
Lettershea
(An Cloigeann)
Inchagoil
Headford
Shanbally
Lough
Curhownagh Ballynahinch Maam Cross Farravaun Lough Shanbally Headford
Curhownagh
Maam Cross
Ballynahinch
Recess
(An Teach Dóite)
Lough
Ballinaboy
Ballinaboy Lough Recess (An Teach Dóite)
Corrib
Ballina
(Sraith Saileach)
Ballina (Sraith Saileach) Corrib Curraghmore
Curraghmore
Lough
Lough
Shindilla
Toombeola
Toombeola Shindilla
Ballyconneely
Oughterard
Ballyconneely Cushatrower Oughterard
Cushatrower
Cashel
Cashel
(An Caiseal)
(An Caiseal)
ACTIVITIES Below River valley at Delphi, named after Grecian Delphi by the Marquis of Sligo, see p177
Try some of the finest seafood in
the vibrant fishing port of Clifden
Take an exhilarating drive along
the Sky Road to the western tip of
Connemara
Walk round lovely Diamond Hill in
the Connemara National Park
Go on a boat trip out into fjord-like
Killary Harbour, or to Inishbofin Island,
a centre for traditional Irish music
Picnic, swim, walk or drive along
the shores of any of the region’s
lovely loughs
172-173_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 172 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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Date 03rd March 2009
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DRIVE 17: Connemara and its Loughs 173

PLAN YOUR DRIVE
KEY
Drive route Start/finish: Clifden to Cong.
Islandeady
Islandeady Number of days: 3–4.
Lough
Lough
Carrahelly
Carrahelly Drumneen Cloonkeen
Drumneen
Cloonkeen
Westport
Westport Distance: 220 km (137 miles).
Bay Bay Westport Ballyhean
Westport
Ballyhean
Killadeer
Killadangan
Killadangan Killadeer Road conditions: Roads are generally
BALLINTUBBER
Leckanvy
Leckanvy Claureen BALLINTUBBER in good condition, well paved and
Claureen
ABBEY
Knappagh
Croagh Patrick
Croagh Patrick Knappagh Aghagower ABBEY signposted. Mountain passes are
Aghagower
765m 765m steep and winding, so take extra care.
Killavally Clogher
Killavally
Clogher
Mullagh
Mullagh
Owenwee
Owenwee
Ballintubber
Liscarney Ballintubber When to go: March to October is the
Liscarney
Carrownisky Cordarragh best time for good weather on the
Carrownisky
Cordarragh
Derrynamuck
Carrownacon
Lough Derrynamuck Carrownacon
Lough
Drummin
Killeen
Bohaun
Moher
Killeen Drummin Moher Bohaun coast and lakes, and in the mountains.
MA YO
Leenavesta
Leenavesta
Inishturk Cregganbaun MA YO Partry Opening times: Most shops and
Inishturk
Cregganbaun
Partry
Srah
Cuilmore
Cuilmore (An tSraith) Srah
(An tSraith)
Lough
Ballygarries
Glennagashleeny
Kinnadoohy
Kinnadoohy Glennagashleeny Lough Ballygarries attractions open 9 or 10am–5 or 6pm.
(Gleann na gCaislíní)
Inishdalla Famine Walk (Gleann na gCaislíní) Carra
Inishdalla
Famine Walk
S he eff r y
Carra
P a r t r y M o u n t a i n s
Memorial S he eff r y Shops open Mon–Sat; in large towns
Memorial
TAWNYARD
Dooaghtry DOOLOUGH
Toormakeady
Dooaghtry DOOLOUGH H i l l s H i l l s TAWNYARD Toormakeady Black Black also 12–6pm on Sun. Convenience
stores in villages open 8am until late.
PASS
Knockglass
(Tuar Mhic Éadaigh)
INISHBOFIN
INISHBOFIN Mweelrea PASS (Tuar Mhic Éadaigh) Knockglass
Tawnyard
Mweelrea
ISLAND
ISLAND Davillaun DELPHI VALLEY Tawnyard P a r t r y M o u n t a i n s Lough Levally Main market days: Inishbofin:
Levally
Lough
Lough
Davillaun
Lough
DELPHI VALLEY
Bengorm
Mauntrasna
702m Bengorm Mauntrasna Farmers’ Market, Mon pm.
702m
Mask Ballinrobe
Carrowmore
Bofin Bofin Aasleagh 673m 673m Mask Ballinrobe Carrowmore
Aasleagh
Bundorragh
Inishlyon
Inishlyon Bundorragh
Renvyle
Inishark Renvyle Gowlaun Plains of Eller tr in Shopping: Connemara is famous for
Inishark
Plains of Eller tr in
Gowlaun
Mauntrasna
KILLARY HARBOUR
Ballinchalla
Mauntrasna
Cashleen KILLARY HARBOUR (Mám Trasna) LOUGHS MASK Ballinchalla its fine tweed and green marble.
Cashleen
(Mám Trasna)
LOUGHS MASK
& LEENANE Leenane
Ballylassa
Tully Cross
Tully Cross Lough & LEENANE Leenane Cullin Beg & NAFOOEY Ballylassa
& NAFOOEY
Lough
KYLEMORE
Neale
Barna
KYLEMORE Fee Fee Cullin Beg Lough Finny Finny Barna Neale Kilmaine Major festivals: Clifden: Arts Week, Sep;
Kilmaine
(Fionnaithe)
(Fionnaithe)
Lough
ABBEY
ABBEY Nafooey
Emlagh Cleggan Letterfrack Nafooey Connemara Pony Show, Aug; Omey
Cleggan
Emlagh
Letterfrack
Clonbur
Kildun
Bohaun
Al Dubh Pass
Kylemore
Knockroe
Aughrus More
Aughrus More Kylemore Al Dubh Pass Bohaun Clonbur Kildun Cross Knockroe Island: Omey Races, Jul/Aug; Inishbofin:
(An Fhairche)
(An Fhairche)
(Bothán)
(Bothán)
Inagh
Inagh
Cross
Moyard CONNEMARA
Claddaghduff
Letterbreckanu
OMEY ISLAND
Mount Gable
OMEY ISLAND Claddaghduff Moyard CONNEMARA Letterbreckanu 669m Mount Gable Arts Festival, Apr; Around Connemara:
CONG
669m
NATIONAL PARK
NATIONAL PARK Benbaun Maumturk Mountains Kilmeelicken 418m 418m CONG Connemara Walking Festival, Mar;
Kilmeelicken
Benbaun
MAUM
SKY ROAD 730m 730m (Béal Átha na MAUM Brodullagh Shrule Leenane: Curragh Racing, Jun.
Shrule
Brodullagh
SKY ROAD
(Béal Átha na
Lough
(An Mám)
mBreac)
Streamstown The Twelve Bens Lough mBreac) (An Mám) Ballynalty
Ballynalty
Inagh
Inagh
Inishturk
Inishturk Kingstown Streamstown C o n n e m a r a Cornamona LOUGH
The Twelve Bens
Cornamona
Kingstown
LOUGH
Doolaun
(Corr na Móna)
(Corr na Móna) CORRIB Inish- Black Black Doolaun
Inish-
CORRIB
C o n n e m a r a
Maumturk Mountains
micatreer
CLIFDEN
CLIFDEN Claggan micatreer DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Claggan
GAL W A Y
Errislannan Lettershea GAL W A Y (An Cloigeann) Farravaun Inchagoil
Errislannan
(An Cloigeann)
Lettershea
Inchagoil
Headford
Shanbally
Lough
Curhownagh Ballynahinch Maam Cross Farravaun Lough Shanbally Headford For a taste of traditional Irish life visit
Curhownagh
Maam Cross
Ballynahinch
(An Teach Dóite)
Recess
Lough
Ballinaboy
Ballinaboy Lough Recess (An Teach Dóite) Inishbofin Island, or to explore Irish
Corrib
Ballina
(Sraith Saileach)
Ballina (Sraith Saileach) Corrib Curraghmore
Curraghmore
Lough
Lough history visit the poignant Doolough
Shindilla
Toombeola Shindilla
Toombeola
Ballyconneely
Oughterard
Ballyconneely Cushatrower Oughterard and Delphi valleys. To experience the
Cushatrower
Cashel
Cashel Connemara lakelands, spend a day
(An Caiseal)
(An Caiseal) driving along the shores of four
loughs. For full details, see p179.
0 kilometres 6 Below left Stately Ashford Castle in Cong, on the
shores of Lough Corrib, see p179 Below Lough
0 miles 6
Corrib, as seen from Cornamona, see p179
172-173_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 173 11/09/17 12:30 pm

174 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Clifden
Co Galway
Situated on a hillside between the Twelve Bens mountain range
and the Atlantic, and nestling at the head of a broad bay, Clifden
(An Clochán) is blessed with a wonderful setting. Compact and
picturesque, it is Connemara’s largest town and effectively its capital.
It was founded in the early 19th century by John D’Arcy, a Galway
sheriff, and still retains much of its Georgian architecture. Boasting a
healthy number of good restaurants, pubs and shops, and a bustling
atmosphere, this vibrant town deserves more than a cursory glance.
A one-hour walking tour Return by the same route until
Begin the walk at the Tourist Office reaching a right turn down Church
1. Turn uphill on Galway Road and Street to Main St and Market Square.
then right into Westport Road and Mullarkey’s Bar 6, at the back of
right again, where Clifden’s Catholic Foyle’s on the square, often has
Church of St Joseph 2 can be seen. evening open mic sessions with an
It is from the site of this church that eclectic range of music, from Irish
Above Clifden, nestled below the imposing Clifden derives its name, built as it traditional to modern folk. From
Twelve Bens range was upon the site of an early Market Square, follow Beach Road
Christian monastic beehive hut or down to the pretty Harbour 7 –
VISITING CLIFDEN
cloghan. Turn left up Church Hill and, one of Ireland’s safest. Look back for
Parking a little further up on the left, the a good view of the town and its twin
There is a free public car park Protestant Christ Church 3, built in spires. Return to Market Square and
immediately behind the Tourist Office. 1820, holds a silver replica of the turn right down Market Street, lined
Tourist Information Cross of Cong (see p179) and has with interesting shops, restaurants,
Galway Road; 095 21163; www. better views than St Joseph’s. Carry bars and pubs including Lowry’s 8,
connemara.net; open Mar–Oct: Mon–Sat on along Church Hill, which another great place to catch a live
Shopping becomes the beginning of the Sky music session. Turn left into Bridge
Whitethorn Gallery on Galway Road Road 4. From this vantage point Street and then right back into
showcases local artists. O’Dalaigh visitors can look down and fully Galway Road. Next to the Tourist Office,
Jewellers on Main Street (www. appreciate Clifden’s majestic setting, don’t miss the Station House Museum
celticimpressions.com) sells Celtic-
inspired jewellery. Millars on Main with the lofty spires of its churches 9 (open May–Oct: Mon–Sat) whose
Street stocks Irish fashion designers. elegantly set against the looming exhibitions tell the tale of aviators
presence of the Twelve Bens. Alcock and Brown – who ended their
VISITING INISHBOFIN ISLAND Continue on Sky Road past the transatlantic flight near here in 1919 –
Abbeyglen Castle. A path to the left and the Connemara pony.
Inishbofin Island Discovery makes
the 30-minute crossing from Cleggan is the start of a steep, 15-minute ª From the tourist office car park,
at least once daily all year (095 45819; climb up to the D’Arcy Monument turn right up Wesport Road, left up
www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com). 5, which offers spectacular views. Church Hill and follow Sky Road signs.
WHERE TO STAY IN CLIFDEN
Below View across the green countryside of the Sky Road towards Cleggan
Foyle’s Hotel inexpensive
Old-fashioned, quirky hotel run by the
Foyle family for generations. Attached is
Marconi’s seafood restaurant.
Main St; 095 21801;
www.foyleshotel.com
Abbeyglen Castle Hotel moderate
A 10-minute walk from the centre of
town. Views over the Bay and Twelve
Bens Mountains and gourmet dining
at the hotel restaurant.
Sky Road; 095 21201; www.abbeyglen.ie
The Quay House moderate
A charming, award-winning guest-
house with views across the water.
Once the harbour master’s residence,
this is the oldest building in Clifden.
Clifden Harbour; 095 21369;
www.thequayhouse.com
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


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0 metres 500
0 yards 500 W E S T P O R T ROAD



C H U RC H H I LL Church of
St Joseph
Christ
Church Tourist
GALWAY RD Office
S K Y R O A D
Mullarkey’s Bar
MARKET Lowry’s Station
House
SQUARE MAI N S T B R I D G E S T R E E T Museum
B E ACH R O A D MA R K E T S T R E E T
D‘Arcy
Monument
Harbour
Above Ferry to Inishbofin Island from Cleggan
2 Sky Road eye on the time, though, in order not Harbour near Claddaghduff
Co Galway to misjudge the tide, which would
A rollercoaster of a drive skirting the mean an enforced wait of six hours.
northern flank of Streamstown Bay, ª From Claddaghduff it is a 1-km (half-
at its summit the Sky Road reaches mile) drive north to Cleggan Harbour for
a height of 152 m (500 ft), affording ferries to Inishbofin Island.
breathtaking sea views across the
islands of Turbot and Inishturk. 4 Inishbofin Island EAT AND DRINK
At the top there is a lay-by ideal for Co Galway
pausing to take in the sweeping Inishbofin is a small island with cliffs CLIFDEN
views. Follow the road back to and sandy beaches, blessed with Cullens Café Bistro inexpensive
the N59 and turn left, crystal-clear waters great Simple dishes prepared extremely
then take the next left, for swimming, snorkelling well. This is a lovely restaurant with a
cosy, welcoming ambience, offering
signposted Claddaghduff. and excellent shore angling. very good value.
Having safely descended At the island’s centre is Market Street
again to sea level at this peaceful Lough Boffin, home Connemara Hamper moderate
little village, there may be to a range of wading and This deli is perfect when stocking up
time to unwind with a migrant birds; on its western for a picnic, with a superb range of
drink while waiting for the side are rocky outcrops cheeses and cold meats. It specializes
tide to recede, making it known as “The Stags”, with in local produce such as Connemara
smoked salmon and artisan chocolates.
possible to cross the impressive sea stacks and Main Street, Clifden; 095 21054; closed
causeway to Omey Island. blow-holes. Sun; www.connemarahamper.com
ª Drive across the short, Roller coaster Inishbofin (“island of the Mitchell’s Restaurant moderate
sandy causeway via Star of Sky Road white cow”) is also a centre Clifden’s premier eating-place; a great
the Sea Church at low tide, for traditional Irish music. As dining experience with beautifully
following the markers with great care. well as having its own famous ceilidh presented food. The menu is especially
band, the island plays host to visiting strong on seafood dishes. Good value
3 Omey Island musicians and artists. The shell of a lunchtime menu.
Market Street; 095 21867;
Co Galway 14th-century chapel – the last vestiges www.mitchellsrestaurantclifden.com
For one day each year, in August, this of a monastic settlement established
peaceful spot becomes the centre of by St Colman in the 7th century – and AROUND INISHBOFIN ISLAND
attention, for the Omey Races, and the remains of a Cromwellian barracks, Oliver’s on Cleggan Pier
the beach makes a spectacular used to house captured Catholic inexpensive–moderate
Overlooking the harbour in Cleggan,
setting for a horse race. The rest of clergy from all over the country, can Oliver’s is a handy spot for a quick bite
the year, the most important site is a be visited too. Near the pier is the while waiting for the ferry to Inishbofin.
6th-century monastic graveyard and small but interesting Heritage Museum, Unsurprisingly, it specializes in fish and
a holy well and chapel dedicated to dedicated to island history and life. seafood – particularly flatfish,
St Fechin. In the centre of the island ª From Cleggan, drive southeast Connemara smoked salmon and
Cleggan scallops. The bar serves local
is the reedy Fahy Lough, around on the R379 to the N59. Turn left onto oysters. Also has six ensuite rooms.
which there are good walking and the N59 to Letterfrack for access to the Cleggan Harbour; 095 44640;
birdwatching opportunities. Keep an Connemara National Park. www.oliversonclegganspier.ie
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


174-179_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 175 11/09/17 12:30 pm

176 BACK ROADS IRELAND


5 Connemara National Park Built in the 19th century, since 1922
Co Galway the abbey has been home to a semi-
This protected parkland spreads over enclosed order of Benedictine nuns
3,000 ha (6,000 acres) of mountains, who, until recently, ran a boarding
bogs, heaths and grasslands. The school for girls. Part of the abbey is
19th-century Quaker-founded open to visitors, who can view the
village of Letterfrack offers the best dining rooms, library and main hall.
access to the park, and is a good The visitor centre recounts the
opportunity for visitors to leave the history of the building and the order,
car for a while and experience at and the craft shop sells delicious jams
first hand the unique terrain of made by the nuns, as well as local
Connemara. The excellent Visitor pottery. But perhaps the biggest
Centre (open Mar–Oct) provides attraction here is the walled garden
general information on fauna and (open mid-Mar–Oct), originally laid out
wildlife in the park, and maps of in 1860 with no fewer than 21 glass-
the walking trails. One of the best houses. There is a shuttle bus to the
is the circular Diamond Hill Walk gardens from the abbey.
Above Diamond Hill, in Connemara National which offers rewarding views of ª Leaving the abbey, turn left onto
Park, seen from the Visitor Centre Kylemore Abbey and its surrounding the N59 to Leenane for Killary Harbour.
bays and mountains. It is a looped
VISITING CONNEMARA walk taking about 2–3 hours. For
NATIONAL PARK something less strenuous and
shorter, there are also three less-
Parking demanding trails that skirt the lower
Park at the National Park Visitor Centre.
slopes of Diamond Hill. All routes are
National Park Visitor Centre clearly signposted. Along the way,
Letterfrack, Co Galway; 095 41054;
www.connemaranationalpark.ie; walkers may well glimpse red deer
open Mar–Oct daily and Connemara ponies, and hear a
wide variety of songbirds.
Shopping
Cottage Handcrafts at Moyard by ª From Letterfrack continue east on
park entrance stocks green marble, the N59, along the shores of Lake
tweeds and knits. Pollacappull, to Kylemore Abbey.
VISITING KILLARY HARBOUR 6 Kylemore Abbey
AND LEENANE Co Galway Above A scenic view of the lovely winding fjord
One of the most photographed vistas of Killary Harbour
Killary Harbour Boat Trips in Connemara is from the shores of
Cruises up the fjord depart several 7 Killary Harbour
times daily Apr–Oct. Lake Pollacappull. Across this tranquil
Leenane, Co Galway; 091 566 736; stretch of water, nestling at the foot and Leenane
www.killaryfjord.com of Duchruach Hill, is the castellated Co Galway
form of Kylemore Abbey (open daily). Killary Harbour is Ireland’s only fjord
WHERE TO STAY and the small, picturesque village of
Below Spectacular Kylemore Abbey, perched on Leenane sits at its head. The best
KILLARY HARBOUR AND LEENANE the shoreline of Lake Pollacappull view of the fjord is a little way before
Leenane Hotel moderate
A former coaching station, this family-
run hotel offers beautiful views over
Killary Harbour. Now refurbished,
it retains its old-world character and
has a warm, welcoming ambience.
Clifden Road; closed mid-Nov to mid-
Mar; 095 42249; www.leenanehotel.com
DELPHI VALLEY
Delphi Lodge expensive
Set in a beautiful secluded location on
the shores of Lough Finny and facing
the graceful slopes of the Mweelrea
mountains, the lodge also offers
superb dining in the evening around
a communal table.
Delphi Valley; closed mid-Oct to mid-
Feb; 095 42222; www.delphilodge.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


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DRIVE 17: Connemara and its Loughs 177


the village, to the left, as the N59
slopes down towards it. There are
several off-road viewpoints for
exhilarating panoramas of the glacial
valley and, on the opposite shore, the
vertiginous dark slopes of Mweelrea
mountain plunging into the blue
waters. From Leenane, a 90-minute
cruise sails the length of the 14-km
(9-mile) fjord, offering excellent
views. As the waters of the harbour
are exceptionally calm, it is rare for
passengers to suffer seasickness.
ª Head northeast on the N59. At Above View over the surrounding hills from the
Aasleagh turn left onto the R335, Nestled in the midst of the Murrisk Tawnyard Pass
through the Doolough Pass between Mountains, its enigmatic beauty is
the Sheeffry Hills and Mweelrea to the further enhanced by the total peace
Delphi Valley. and solitude of its setting. Even in
high summer, visitors are few. At the
8 Delphi Valley far end of the lake, the small stone
Co Mayo Famine Walk Memorial, inscribed
The Delphi Valley was given its name with a quote from Bishop Desmond
by the Marquis of Sligo who, on his Tutu, is on the right. The view back
return from Delphi in Greece in the across the lake and the surrounding
1830s, built his country hills is sublime. For some,
home, Delphi Lodge, on the terrible event that
the shores of beautiful took place in this valley
Lough Finny, opposite in March 1849 to this day
the lower slopes of reverberates in its
Mweelrea. It is said that sombre beauty.
the Grecian landscape ª Retrace the route
reminded him so much back to the Delphi side
of home that he pined of the lake. At the first
for this corner of Mayo. junction, turn left up the
ª Follow the R335 hill, signed Liscarney and
to Doolough and the Traditional local Drummin, to reach the
Famine Walk Memorial. road signs Tawnyard Pass.
The Famine Walk 0 Tawnyard Pass
During the Great Famine in Ireland Co Mayo
(1845–51) a million people died This mountain road cuts through a
and a further million emigrated. In remote forested area of the Sheefry.
March 1849, hundreds of starving Park at the sign for Tawnyard Forests EAT AND DRINK IN KILLARY
people walked over the Doolough for superb views over Tawnyard HARBOUR AND LEENANE
Pass from Louisburg to Delphi
House, where a party of famine Lough and its surrounding hills as Gaynor’s inexpensive
relief commissioners were staying, well as the Ben Gorm and Mweelrea This pub’s claim to fame is that many
hoping to get food for their families. mountains. A walking trail leads scenes in Jim Sheridan’s movie The
They were made to wait overnight down to the lough. Once it has Field, starring Richard Harris, were shot
in harsh conditions before being reached the head of the pass, the here. It’s a very popular and friendly
turned away. Around 400 people road hairpins down to a stone bridge place, serving a good range of food,
died on the trek back. A memorial well prepared. They will also make up
stone on the shores of Doolough and levels out on the flatter, fertile a packed lunch on request.
commemorates the tragedy. plains of South Mayo. At the start of Leenane, 095 42261
this descent is a small lay-by where, Blackberry Cafe moderate
on a clear day, the peak of Croagh This family-run restaurant serves
9 Doolough Patrick, Ireland’s holiest mountain, reliably good food and takes pride in
Co Mayo can be seen (see p195). all its dishes being freshly cooked.
Beyond the Delphi Valley, the road ª Stay on this road as far as the Delicious home-made soups and
chowders, fish cakes and mussels.
skirts the lake of Doolough (“Black junction with the R330, turning right Leenane, 095 42240;
Lake” in Irish), reputed to be the onto it. At Killavally, turn left for www.blackberryrestaurant.ie;
second deepest lake in Ireland. Ballintubber Abbey. closed Oct–Mar
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


174-179_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 177 11/09/17 12:30 pm

178 BACK ROADS IRELAND


q Ballintubber Abbey marks the start of the Gaeltacht.
Co Mayo From here, the road veers away from
Founded in 1216 by Cathal O’Conner, the lough and climbs upwards. Stop
the King of Connaught, Ballintubber and look back for a fabulous view.
Abbey (open daily) is often spoken of Soon the road dips down into the
as “the abbey that refused to die”. valley of Lough Nafooey. At the end
Remarkably, it is the only church in of the lough is a secluded, sandy
Ireland where, for coming up to beach, from where long-abandoned
800 years, Mass has been celebrated cultivation ridges called “lazy beds”,
without a break and today is still a used for growing potatoes until the
place of daily worship. Famine of 1845–51, can be seen.
An audiovisual display takes visitors ª Follow the road up over Al Dubh
on a journey through Cromwellian Pass to join the R336, turning left
burnings, religious persecution, and towards Maum.
the actitivies of the notorious “priest
hunter” Sean na Sagart (“John of the The Galway Gaeltacht
Priests”) who is actually buried in the The Gaeltacht are regions where
graveyard. His body was laid facing the Irish language still holds sway.
north instead of the usual practice of They are found mainly in the more
burying the dead facing the rising remote communities of western
sun. Every year, hundreds of people Ireland. The Galway Gaeltacht in
Connemara is the most extensive
Above One of the many little islands that dot walk Tochar Phadraig (“Pilgrim’s Path”) in Ireland, and even the road signs
the tranquil surface of Lough Corrib from the abbey to Croagh Patrick, here may be in Irish only. The
and up to the summit of the holy government actively supports and
mountain (see p195). promotes its continued use, and
ª Join the N84 at Ballintubber and schoolchildren from other areas
drive south towards Partry. Turn right often holiday in the Gaeltacht to
improve their Irish.
onto the R330 (signposted Lough
Mask Drive) and then left for the tiny
hamlet of Srah (An tSraith). Veer left e Maum (An Mám)
and follow the road that hugs the Co Galway
WHERE TO STAY northern shore of Lough Mask. The Irish-speaking area around
Maum is known for the venerable
AROUND BALLINTUBBER ABBEY w Loughs Mask and Nafooey local Joyce family – it is often referred
Moher House inexpensive Co Mayo to as “Joyce Country”. The village itself
This homely bed and breakfast is in Lough Mask is a vast limestone lake, makes a pleasant stop, with Keane’s,
the capable hands of owner Marian etched by rain and river water out of an ivy-clad pub, opposite the small
O’Malley, who ensures all guests are
given a warm welcome. Open peat the porous rock, and one of the best bridge spanning the River Joyce.
fires and views of Croagh Patrick and spots in Ireland for brown-trout From the bridge there are fine views
Moher Lake add to the friendly, open angling. For almost its whole length of the Maumturk Mountains.
ambience. Wide choice of breakfasts, the road hugs the shoreline, offering ª Continue east, taking the R345
and evening meals by arrangement.
Near village of Drummin on the main lovely lake vistas. The little town of along Lough Corrib towards Clonbur
Leenane–Westport Road (N59); 098 Tourmakeady (Tuar Mhic Éadaigh) and Cong.
21360; www.moherhousewestport.com;
closed Nov–Feb Below Regional architecture of a stone farmhouse on Lough Mask
LOUGH CORRIB
Fairhill House Hotel moderate
This refurbished Victorian hotel offers
simple but very comfortable country-
style accommodation.
Main Street, Clonbur; 094 954 6176;
www.fairhillhouse.com
CONG
Ashford Castle Hotel
moderate–expensive
For those who want a truly memorable
stay, this charming and dignified hotel
is one of Ireland’s plushest addresses.
Regularly hosting dignitaries, it even
has its own falconry school.
095 9544 6003; www.ashford.ie
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


174-179_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 178 11/09/17 12:30 pm
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DRIVE 17: Connemara and its Loughs 179


r Lough Corrib
Co Mayo and Co Galway
The largest lake in the Republic of
Ireland, Lough Corrib is reputed to
have an island for every day of the
year. One of the largest is Inchagoil,
which has an important monastic
settlement (see p186). Many are
wooded, and the dawn chorus in
early spring on Lough Corrib is a
spectacular natural event.
From Maum to Clonbur there are
almost uninterrupted views of this
beautiful, island-studded lake. There
is a viewing point just before
Cornamona (Corr Na Mona). From Above Magnificent mountain scenery
here it is possible to make a detour t Cong between Loughs Mask and Nafooey
onto a tiny peninsula that affords Co Mayo
closer views of the Isle of Inchagoil. Cong was the location for John Ford’s EAT AND DRINK
Clonbur (An Fhaírche) is a picturesque 1951 film The Quiet Man, starring John
village on the broad neck of land Wayne. Movie buffs should head for the LOUGHS MASK AND NAFOOEY
between Loughs Mask and Corrib. Quiet Man Museum (open Easter–mid- Maire Lukes inexpensive
There are forest and lakeside walks Oct daily). Nearby, ruined Cong Abbey From the garden at the rear of this
in the vicinity and Clonbur Woods was founded in the 7th century and landmark pub there are sweeping
are renowned for the variety of rebuilt in the 12th and 13th by the last views of Lough Mask. It serves good
light lunches, and helpful staff are
butterflies found there. kings of Connaught: knowledgeable about the area.
The upper-floor balcony Turlough, Rory and Cathal Toormakeady, Lough Mask; 094 954
of Burke’s pub-restaurant O’Connor. The splendid, 4080
has great views of ornamented 12th-century LOUGH CORRIB
Mount Gable and the Cross of Cong once Burke’s inexpensive
landscape. Its owners resided here (it is now in This family-run pub and restaurant
also provide maps and the National Museum of offers wonderful views of Mount Gable
advice on local walking Ireland in Dublin, see p150). as well as a good variety of meat and
trails. One is to the top Behind the abbey, a path fish dishes for hungry walkers.
of Mount Gable, from leads to Ashford Castle, Clonbur; 094 954 6175;
www.burkes-clonbur.com
where the whole of once the home of Arthur
Connemara is spread Guinness, founder of the CONG
out below. It is a 3-hour Cong Abbey’s 12th-century Guinness stout brewery Hungry Monk Café inexpensive
return trek, but it is also arched doorway in 1756, and now one of A great place to indulge in freshly
possible to drive to Ireland’s most luxurious ground coffee and home-made
within 40 minutes’ walk of hotels. Take tea here to enjoy the desserts and cakes.
Abbey Street, Cong; 094 954 5842;
the summit (ask at Burke’s). lovely ornamental gardens that sweep www.hungrymonkcong.com;
ª Take the R346 east to Cong. down to the shores of Lough Corrib. closed Sun
DAY TRIP OPTIONS History trail Connemara’s lakelands
Clifden, Killary Harbour and Cong From lovely Killary Harbour 7, the From either Clonbur or Cong t four
are all good bases from which to spectacular, steep and winding route lovely loughs – Carra, Mask, Nafooey
explore the coastline, history and over Bengorm Pass leads to poignant w and Corrib r – can be linked in
loughs of Connemara. Delphi Valley 8 and Doolough 9, a delightful day’s driving tour that
also runs through Irish-speaking
Island life the site of a moving monument to Joyce Country around Maum e.
From picturesque Clifden 1 take the Ireland’s tragic Famine Trail.
lovely drive out on the Sky Road 2 Follow the drive instructions over the Head north to Barna, Ballinchalla and
to Cleggan for the ferry to Inishbofin pass and through the valley along the Ballinrobe, then turn left onto the N84
Island 4, where traditional Irish lough, continuing to the end of the to the shores of Lough Carra. Continue
on the N84 up to Partry, then turn left
music and crafts are still a way of life. descent from Tawnyard Pass 0. When onto the R300 to Srah, and from there
Follow the drive instructions out to the road reaches the N59, turn right to follow the drive instructions back to
Cleggan for the ferry to the island. return to Killary Harbour/Leenane. Clonbur or Cong.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


174-179_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 179 11/09/17 12:30 pm

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Highlights
$PSL $PSL $PSL $PSL $PSL
• Vibrant Galway
Join in the “craic” in this fun-loving
maritime city
• Island-studded lake
Cruise on lovely Lough Corrib,
stopping to visit Inchagoill Island
• The heart of Connemara
Explore two achingly beautiful valleys,
set against the Maumturks and
Twelve Bens mountain ranges
• Dramatic coastline
Be thrilled by the rugged, island-
strewn coast of Connemara
• Outposts of Irish culture
Visit the Aran Islands, Irish bastions,
and experience a unique way of life
The vertiginous Dun Aengus cliffs on
Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands
BR_IR_180-181.indd 181 23/10/09 14:30:10

182 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Connemara’s Coast

When W B Yeats coined the phrase “A terrible beauty” he was describing the whole
of Ireland, but it was probably the “water and the wilds” of Connemara that he had
in his mind’s eye. The name alone conjures up romantic notions of the west of
Ireland – a harsh yet utterly entrancing landscape of blanket bogs, lakes and
mountains, and a deeply indented coastline strewn with small islands. The region is
fringed by the broad sweep of Lough Corrib to the east and the Atlantic to the
west, while its northern boundary is defined by Killary
Harbour. Dominating the landscape and rarely BengormBengorm
out of view are the majestic Twelve Bens Bundorragh 702m702m Aasleagh
Aasleagh
Bundorragh
and Maumturks mountain ranges, Cloonagh Killary Harb our b our Devils MotherDevils Mother
Killary Har
650m650m
Cloonagh
whose looming presence Tully Cross Leenane (Mám Trasna)
Maumtrasna
Maumtrasna
Leenane
(Mám Trasna)
Tully Cross
lends extra drama to LoughLough Cullin Beg LoughLough
Fee Fee
Cullin Beg
Bohaun
this stunningly NafooeyNafooey Bohaun
(Bothán)
(Bothán)
beautiful region. Crockaunroe Letterfrack KylemoreKylemore Kilmeelicken
Letterfrack
Crockaunroe
Kilmeelicken
InaghInagh
(Béal Átha na mBr
Moyard
Moyard LetterbreckanuLetterbreckanu (Béal Átha na mBreac)eac) ClonburClonbur CongCong CrossCross
Teeranea
BenbaunBenbaun 669m669m Teeranea (An Fhairche)(An Fhairche)
(Tír an Fhia)
Streamstown 730m730m Maumturk Mountains (Tír an Fhia)
INAGHINAGH
Streamstown
LoughLough
Kingstown
Kingstown T he Twelve Bens Bens VALLEYVALLEY Maum Maum Cornamona BallynaltyBallynalty
Cornamona
(An Mám)
InaghInagh (An Mám)
T he Twelve
(Corr na Móna)
Inishmicatreer
ClifdenClifden C o n n e m a r a r a (Corr na Móna) Inishmicatreer
C o n n e m a
Ardbear Bay
Ardbear Bay
Inchagoill
Errislannan Lettershea DerryclareDerryclare Farravaun Inchagoill Black Black
Errislannan
Maumturk Mountains
Farravaun
Lettershea
Island
LoughLough MAAM VALLEYMAAM VALLEY Curraun Island HeadfordHeadford
Curraun
Ballinaboy
Alcock and Brown MonumentAlcock and Brown Monument Ballinaboy Inchiquin
Inchiquin
Loughanillaun
Recess
Ballynahinch
ManninMannin Ballynahinch Recess Loughanillaun ShanballyShanbally
(Sraith Salach)
BayBay Ballina (Sraith Salach) L o u g h C o r r i b b
Ballina
DERRIGIMLA
Maam Cross
Maam Cross
Knockalahara
OoridOorid
Doonloughan DERRIGIMLAGHGH Toombeola LoughLough (An Teach Dóite) Knockalahara
Doonloughan
Toombeola
(An Teach Dóite)
LoughLough BOG BOG OUGHTERARDOUGHTERARD
Ballyconneely
Cashel
AnaserdAnaserd Ballyconneely Cushatrower Cashel GAL W A YGAL W A Y Lough Lough Kilgarriff
Kilgarriff
Cushatrower
L o u g h C o r r i
(An Caiseal)
Killarone
Forglass
Buno
Bunowenwen Forglass (An Caiseal) Bofin Bofin Killarone
Eighter
ErrisbegErrisbeg LoughLough Eighter
Knockf
Rusheeny
SlyneSlyne BallyconneelyBallyconneely 300m300m AhaliaAhalia Rusheeny Knockferryerry AnnaghdownAnnaghdown
Derryrush
Glencoh
HeadHead BayBay ROUNDSTONEROUNDSTONE Derryrush Glencoh (Eanach Dhúin)(Eanach Dhúin)
(Doire Ior
(Glinn Cha
BertraghboyBertraghboy (Doire Iorrais)rais) (Glinn Chatha)tha) Rosscahill BRIGIT’S GARDENBRIGIT’S GARDEN
Rosscahill
Lettereraffroe
Dog’sDog’s BayBay Lettereraffroe CloonbooCloonboo
Bay Bay GorteenGorteen Glinsk Glinsk Lough Lough Coolagh RossRoss Tullokyne (Cluain Bú)(Cluain Bú)
Tullokyne
Bay Bay
(Glinsce)
(Glinsce)
Lough Lough
Coolagh
Ballydotia
(Na Cualacha)
Kilbrickan
Rosmuck
Kilbrickan Rosmuck (Na Cualacha) Ballydotia
Mo
Moyrusyrus (Ros Muc) (Baile Dóite) ClaregalwayClaregalway
(Baile Dóite)
(Ros Muc)
(Cill Bhreacáin)
(Maíros)
(Maíros) (Cill Bhreacáin) CONNEMARACONNEMARA (Baile Chláir)(Baile Chláir)
Moycullen
Kilkieran MARBLE VISITOR CENTREMARBLE VISITOR CENTRE Moycullen
Kilkieran
BERTRAGHBOY BAY
(Maigh Cuilinn)
Kinvarrra
(Cill Chiaráin)
0 kilometres 6 BERTRAGHBOY BAY (Cill Chiaráin) Kinvarrra (Maigh Cuilinn) BallindoolyBallindooly
PEARSE’S COTTAGE
(Cinn Mhara)
(Cinn Mhara)
Killagoola
Carna Carna PEARSE’S COTTAGE Killagoola (Baile an Dúlaigh(Baile an Dúlaigh
(Teach an Phiarsaigh)
Addragool
(Carna) (Teach an Phiarsaigh) (Cill Ogúla) Addragool
(Carna)
(Cill Ogúla)
0 miles 6 St Mac Dara’s IslandSt Mac Dara’s Island (Eadargúil) GalwayGalway
(Eadargúil)
(Oileán Mhic Dara)(Oileán Mhic Dara) KilkieranKilkieran Derrykyle MenloughMenlough
Derrykyle
Laughil
Laughil
Ardmore
(Mionlach)(Mionlach)
(Doire Choill)
Mweenish IslandMweenish Island Ardmore BayBay (Doire Choill) Owenboliska (Leamhchoill) Corrib Corrib
(Leamhchoill)
Costelloe
(An Aird Mhóir)
(Maoinis)(Maoinis) (An Aird Mhóir) Lettermore Costelloe Boliska
Boliska
Lettermore
(Casla) (Casla)
(Leitir Móir)
ACTIVITIES (Leitir Móir) Lough Lough
Owenboliska
GALWAY
Teeranea GALWAY
Teeranea
Rossa
(Tír an Fhia)
(Tír an Fhia) Carraroe Rossaveelveel Knock Knock Lippa Lippa OranmoreOranmore
Carraroe
(Ros an Mhíl)
(Ros an Mhíl)
Wash down Galway Bay prawns or GorumnaGorumna (An Cheathrú Rua) (An Cnoc) (An Lipe) Salthill RinvilleRinville
(An Lipe)
Salthill
(An Cnoc)
(An Cheathrú Rua)
Lettermullan
Lettermullan
oysters with a pint of Guinness in a (Leitir Mealláin) IslandIsland CashlaCashla Inveran Barna Barna
(Leitir Mealláin)
(Bearna)
(Bearna)
Inveran
Loughaunbeg
typical Galway pub (Garmna)(Garmna) BayBay (Indreabhán) Loughaunbeg SPIDDALSPIDDAL ParkmoreParkmore
(Indreabhán)
(An Lochán Beag) (An Spidéal)(An Spidéal) Tawinwin
(An Lochán Beag)
Ta
Island
Island
Wander through wild flower
meadows in Brigit’s Garden N o r t h S o u n d n d
Gal w a yGal w a y
N o r t h S o u
Pack a picnic and hike across the
blanket boglands of Connemara B ayB ay
Onaght
Onaght
(Eoghanacht)
THE ARAN ISLANDS
Climb Errisbeg Mountain in (Eoghanacht) Kilmurvey THE ARAN ISLANDS
Kilmurvey
(Oileáin Árainn)
(Cill Mhuirbhigh)
Roundstone for the loveliest view Dun Dun (Cill Mhuirbhigh) (Oileáin Árainn)
Kilronan
in Connemara AengusAengus Kilronan
(Cill Rónáin)
(Cill Rónáin)
Killeany
Killeany
Watch traditional Galway hookers InishmoreInishmore (Cill Éinne) InishmaanInishmaan
(Cill Éinne)
(sail boats) race across Galway Bay (Inis Mor)(Inis Mor) (Inis Meáin)(Inis Meáin)
KEY Dun Dun
Cycle the coastal road of Inishmore, ChonchúirChonchúir
the largest of the Aran Islands Drive route InisheerInisheer
(Inis Oírr)(Inis Oírr)
182-183_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 182 11/09/17 12:30 pm
Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Tour Map Spread template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 03rd March 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Frutiger Pro, Myriad Pro

DRIVE 18: Connemara’s Coast 183

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Galway to Spiddal (An
Spiddéal).
Number of days: 3–4, allowing one
day on the Aran Islands.
Distance: 240 km (150 miles).
Road conditions: Coastal roads are
often narrow and uneven, and
BengormBengorm signposting can be erratic.
702m702m Aasleagh
Aasleagh
Bundorragh
Bundorragh
Devils MotherDevils Mother When to go: Mar–Oct is preferable.
Killary Har
Killary Harb our b our
Cloonagh
Cloonagh 650m650m Maumtrasna Most festivals take place in summer,
Maumtrasna
Leenane
(Mám Trasna)
Tully Cross Leenane (Mám Trasna) and regional tourist offices are closed
Tully Cross
LoughLough
Fee Fee Nov–early Mar.
Cullin Beg
Cullin Beg LoughLough
Bohaun
NafooeyNafooey Bohaun
(Bothán)
(Bothán)
KylemoreKylemore Above Maze-like drystone walls on Inishmore, the Main market days: Galway: food and
Letterfrack
Crockaunroe
Crockaunroe Letterfrack InaghInagh Kilmeelicken
Kilmeelicken
(Béal Átha na mBr
Moyard
Moyard LetterbreckanuLetterbreckanu (Béal Átha na mBreac)eac) ClonburClonbur CongCong CrossCross most visited of the Aran Islands, see pp188–9 craft market (behind St Nicholas
Teeranea
BenbaunBenbaun 669m669m Teeranea (An Fhairche)(An Fhairche) Church), all day Sat & Sun pm.
(Tír an Fhia)
INAGHINAGH
Streamstown
Streamstown 730m730m Maumturk Mountains (Tír an Fhia)
LoughLough
Kingstown
Kingstown T he Twelve Bens Bens VALLEYVALLEY Maum Maum Cornamona BallynaltyBallynalty Shopping: Buy a genuine hand-
Cornamona
(An Mám)
InaghInagh (An Mám)
T he Twelve
(Corr na Móna)
Inishmicatreer
ClifdenClifden C o n n e m a r a r a (Corr na Móna) Inishmicatreer knitted Aran sweater from the Aran
C o n n e m a
Ardbear Bay
Ardbear Bay
Inchagoill
Errislannan
Errislannan Lettershea DerryclareDerryclare Farravaun Inchagoill Black Black Islands or a traditional Claddagh ring.
Maumturk Mountains
Farravaun
Lettershea
Island
LoughLough MAAM VALLEYMAAM VALLEY Curraun Island HeadfordHeadford
Curraun
Ballinaboy
Alcock and Brown MonumentAlcock and Brown Monument Ballinaboy Inchiquin Major festivals: Galway: International
Inchiquin
Loughanillaun
Recess
ManninMannin Ballynahinch Recess Loughanillaun ShanballyShanbally Arts Festival, Jul; Galway Races, late
Ballynahinch
(Sraith Salach)
BayBay Ballina (Sraith Salach) L o u g h C o r r i b b
Ballina
DERRIGIMLA
Maam Cross
Maam Cross
Knockalahara
OoridOorid
Doonloughan DERRIGIMLAGHGH Toombeola LoughLough (An Teach Dóite) Knockalahara Jul/early Aug; Film Fleadh, early Jul;
Doonloughan
(An Teach Dóite)
Toombeola
LoughLough BOG BOG OUGHTERARDOUGHTERARD Galway Oyster Festival, end Sep.
Ballyconneely
AnaserdAnaserd Ballyconneely Cushatrower Cashel GAL W A YGAL W A Y Lough Lough Kilgarriff
Cashel
Kilgarriff
Cushatrower
L o u g h C o r r i
(An Caiseal)
Killarone
Bunowenwen Forglass (An Caiseal) Bofin Bofin Killarone
Buno
Forglass
Eighter
ErrisbegErrisbeg LoughLough Eighter
Knockf
Rusheeny
SlyneSlyne BallyconneelyBallyconneely 300m300m AhaliaAhalia Rusheeny Knockferryerry AnnaghdownAnnaghdown DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Derryrush
Glencoh
HeadHead BayBay ROUNDSTONEROUNDSTONE Derryrush Glencoh (Eanach Dhúin)(Eanach Dhúin)
(Doire Ior
(Glinn Cha
BertraghboyBertraghboy (Doire Iorrais)rais) (Glinn Chatha)tha) Rosscahill BRIGIT’S GARDENBRIGIT’S GARDEN
Rosscahill
Lettereraffroe
Dog’sDog’s BayBay Lettereraffroe CloonbooCloonboo Have fun in Galway, with its busy
Bay Bay GorteenGorteen Glinsk Glinsk Lough Lough Coolagh RossRoss Tullokyne (Cluain Bú)(Cluain Bú) waterfront, historic pubs and great
Bay Bay
Tullokyne
(Glinsce)
(Glinsce)
Lough Lough
Coolagh
(Na Cualacha)
Ballydotia
Kilbrickan Rosmuck (Na Cualacha) Ballydotia restaurants. For coastal scenery and
Rosmuck
Kilbrickan
Mo
Moyrusyrus (Ros Muc) (Baile Dóite) ClaregalwayClaregalway
(Baile Dóite)
(Ros Muc)
(Cill Bhreacáin)
(Maíros)
(Maíros) (Cill Bhreacáin) CONNEMARACONNEMARA (Baile Chláir)(Baile Chláir) beaches, head for Roundstone and
Kilkieran
Moycullen
Kilkieran Moycullen
BERTRAGHBOY BAY (Cill Chiaráin) Kinvarrra MARBLE VISITOR CENTREMARBLE VISITOR CENTRE (Maigh Cuilinn) BallindoolyBallindooly follow the spectacular drive around
BERTRAGHBOY BAY
(Maigh Cuilinn)
Kinvarrra
(Cill Chiaráin)
PEARSE’S COTTAGE
(Cinn Mhara)
Killagoola
Carna Carna PEARSE’S COTTAGE (Cinn Mhara) Killagoola (Baile an Dúlaigh(Baile an Dúlaigh Betraghboy Bay. Alternatively, leave
(Teach an Phiarsaigh)
Addragool
(Cill Ogúla)
(Carna) (Teach an Phiarsaigh) (Cill Ogúla) Addragool
(Carna)
St Mac Dara’s IslandSt Mac Dara’s Island (Eadargúil) GalwayGalway the car behind and escape to
(Eadargúil)
(Oileán Mhic Dara)(Oileán Mhic Dara) KilkieranKilkieran Derrykyle MenloughMenlough
Derrykyle
Laughil
Laughil
Ardmore
(Mionlach)(Mionlach)
(Doire Choill)
Mweenish IslandMweenish Island Ardmore BayBay (Doire Choill) Owenboliska (Leamhchoill) Corrib Corrib Inishmore, the largest of the Aran
(Leamhchoill)
Costelloe
(An Aird Mhóir)
(Maoinis)(Maoinis) (An Aird Mhóir) Lettermore Costelloe Boliska Islands, and cycle around the coast or
Lettermore
Boliska
(Leitir Móir)
(Leitir Móir) (Casla) (Casla) Lough Lough
Owenboliska
GALWAY take in the sights from a pony and
GALWAY
Teeranea trap. For full details, see p189.
Teeranea
Rossa
(Tír an Fhia) Carraroe Rossaveelveel Knock Knock Lippa Lippa OranmoreOranmore
(Tír an Fhia)
Carraroe
(Ros an Mhíl)
(Ros an Mhíl)
(An Lipe)
(An Cnoc)
Salthill
(An Cheathrú Rua)
(An Cheathrú Rua) (An Cnoc) (An Lipe) Salthill
Lettermullan GorumnaGorumna Barna Barna RinvilleRinville
Lettermullan
(Leitir Mealláin) IslandIsland CashlaCashla Inveran (Bearna) Below A view towards the Twelve Bens across
(Leitir Mealláin)
(Bearna)
Inveran
Loughaunbeg
(Garmna)(Garmna) BayBay Loughaunbeg SPIDDALSPIDDAL ParkmoreParkmore
(Indreabhán)
(Indreabhán)
(An Lochán Beag)
(An Lochán Beag) (An Spidéal)(An Spidéal) Tawinwin Lough Connemara, see p187
Ta
Island
Island
Gal w a yGal w a y
N o r t h S o u
N o r t h S o u n d n d
B ayB ay
Onaght
Onaght
(Eoghanacht)
(Eoghanacht)
THE ARAN ISLANDS
Kilmurvey
Kilmurvey THE ARAN ISLANDS
(Oileáin Árainn)
(Cill Mhuirbhigh) (Oileáin Árainn)
(Cill Mhuirbhigh)
Dun Dun
Kilronan
AengusAengus Kilronan
(Cill Rónáin)
(Cill Rónáin)
Killeany
Killeany
InishmoreInishmore (Cill Éinne)
(Cill Éinne)
(Inis Mor)(Inis Mor) InishmaanInishmaan
(Inis Meáin)(Inis Meáin)
Dun Dun
ChonchúirChonchúir
InisheerInisheer
(Inis Oírr)(Inis Oírr)
182-183_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 183 11/09/17 12:30 pm

184 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Galway
Co Galway
Situated on a narrow neck of land between Galway Bay and Lough
Corrib, Galway is the only maritime city in Ireland that actually looks
out across the sea and has a tang of salt about it. Despite being one
of the fastest growing cities in Europe, it has a village atmosphere and
is famous for its summer festivals, thriving arts scene, historic pubs
and painted shopfronts. It is also where Irish is most widely spoken –
a reminder that it is the cultural hub for the broader hinterland of
Connemara and the Aran Islands, Ireland’s largest Gaeltacht. From
Eyre Square, the main drag leads to the riverfront, a Continental-
style promenade where locals come to enjoy the “craic” – fun.

A two-hour walking tour quays, and a reminder of Galway’s
From Eyre Square Centre car park exit once extensive trading links with the
onto Eyre Square 1, a former market rest of Europe. Behind the arch is the
Above Galway’s brightly painted shopfronts square and jousting ground, once glass-fronted Galway City Museum
are a feature of the city Below Swans by the located outside the old city walls, 5 (open Tue–Sat, Sun pm), which has
quayside, Claddagh harbour and now a pleasant exhibitions on Galway
green space. In the themes, an eclectic
fountain in the centre, permanent collection –
VISITING GALWAY Galway’s maritime a Victorian child’s tricycle,
Parking traditions are celebrated an 18th-century reliquary
Most of the city centre is pedestrianized, by the sculpture of a of St Ursula – and good
so it is best to park in the Eyre Square hooker – the traditional views over the river.
Centre or Forster Street car park opposite Galway fishing boat, Under the arch is Nimmo’s
St Patrick’s Church. There is also a multi- examples of which can (see right), a good spot
storey car park off Quay Street, next to
Wolfe Tone Bridge. Parking discs for be seen sailing in for lunch. Look across
on-street parking can be bought at Galway’s harbour. Lynch family crest, to the far bank of the
shops, newsagents and the tourist office. Leaving the square, Lynch Castle River Corrib at this point
Tourist Information stroll down William Street to see Claddagh, the
Aras Failte, Forster St; 091 537 700; and Shop Street, Galway’s main drag. oldest fishing village in Galway,
www.discoverireland.ie/galway; On the right is Lynch’s Castle 2, the which gives its name to the
open Mon–Sat home of one of Galway’s ruling Claddagh ring (see right).
families in the 16th century. Further From the Spanish Arch, follow
WHERE TO STAY IN GALWAY down Shop Street, fork left for High Fishery Walk 6 – the wooden
Heron’s Rest moderate Street. On the corner of Cross and walkway is clearly marked –
The owner of this boutique B&B near Quay streets is Dillon’s Jewellers 3, upstream. Continue past Wolfe Tone
the Spanish Arch has brought the which has a quaint museum (open Bridge towards the Salmon Weir
village to the city with her careful daily; pm only Sun) dedicated to the Bridge, following the river as it
attention to detail, individually styled history of the Claddagh ring (see box). curves right onto Waterside. On the
rooms and gourmet breakfasts. She is
also a mine of information on events Continue down to the river and turn opposite bank is the Roman Catholic
in Galway and its history. left to the Spanish Arch 4, the Cathedral of St Nicholas, an imposing
16a The Longwalk, Spanish Arch; 091 remnants of the city wall extension modern structure built of local
539 574; www.theheronsrest.com; (1584), built to protect the river limestone and Connemara marble,
open Apr–Oct
The House Hotel moderate
Fashionable boutique hotel. Rooms
are beautifully appointed and have all
the comforts of a top-range hotel.
Great location in the Latin Quarter.
Lower Merchants Rd; 091 538 900;
www.thehousehotel.ie
The Meyrick moderate
Formerly a traditional Victorian railway
hotel, the Meyrick has been given a
contemporary facelift but retains its
large, graceful bedrooms. The Oyster
Bar is well worth a visit.
Eyre Square; 091 564 041;
www.hotelmeyrick.ie




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DRIVE 18: Connemara’s Coast 185


Lynch’s Window 9,
0 metres 250 EAT AND DRINK IN GALWAY
carved with a skull
and crossbones, Corrib House Tea Rooms &
0 yards
250
ST VINCE NT ’S AVE from which James Guesthouse inexpensive
Salmon Weir Lynch, nobleman This charmingly restored Georgian
Bridge ST FRANCIS ST EYRE STREET and mayor, reputedly townhouse with views over the river
Eyre hanged his own son, offers breakfast and lunch, as well as
Cathedral Square teas and coffees. The weekend
of St Nicholas Lynch, for
Nicholas MARY ST EGLINTON ST murdering a Spanish brunches are superb.
3 Waterside, Woodquay; 091 446 753;
River Corrib
BOWLING GREEN WILLIAM ST jealousy. The official
Fishery UPPER ABBEYGATE ST guest in a pique of www.corribhouse.com
Lynch’s
Walk Window Lynch's Castle executioner had Goya’s inexpensive
Great place for coffee and cakes.
LOMBARD ST the deed, no doubt
M E R C H A N T S R O A D
2–3 Kirwan’s Lane; 091 567 010;
Nora Barnacle SHOP ST refused to carry out Vibrant and friendly atmosphere.
House Collegiate Church LOWER ABBEYGATE ST heeding the people’s www.goyas.ie; closed Sun
of St Nicholas
HIGH ST MIDDLE ST ST AUGUSTINE ST pleas for clemency. McDonaghs Seafood House
inexpensive
Galwegians claim
BRIDGE ST CROSS ST
QUAY ST Dillon’s Jewellers Q U E E N S T R E E T this event gave Busy eatery on Quay Street. Famed for
its chowders – the measure of a good
FLO OD ST rise to the term restaurant on the western seaboard –
Wolfe Tone NEW DOCK ‘“lynching”. From it is everything from a take-away fish
Bridge SPANISH
STREET
here return to the bar to a boulevard seafood café.
Spanish 22 Quay St; 091 565 001;
PARADE
Arch Galway City main drag of Shop
Museum Street and turn left www.mcdonaghs.net
back to Eyre Square. Tigh Neachtain inexpensive
ª Leaving Galway, A landmark pub, reputed to be
Galway’s oldest (the interior has
and beyond that the spires of Galway cross Wolfe Tone Bridge and follow barely changed since 1890). Open
University, which has an 1849 Gothic the signs for Salthill, a resort suburb fires create a warm, inviting
Revival quad. In summer, look out for 1 km (half a mile) southwest. With atmosphere, and there are often
salmon ascending to their Galway Bay on the left, follow the impromptu music sessions.
spawning grounds upstream. promenade. Just before the Quay St; 091 568 820;
www.tighneachtain.com
At Waterside, the River Black Rock diving board,
Corrib, opens out into turn right at a mini Ard Bia moderate
Lough Corrib – the roundabout. Drive up Top-drawer cooking and great
atmosphere. Popular with local
largest lake in the the hill and through a foodies. Particular favourites are the
Republic of Ireland. series of roundabouts, Galway mussels and haddock
Beyond the weir are Traditional Claddagh eventually descending chowder. More informal dining
the remaining stanchions wedding ring to the N59. Turn left here available downstairs in the daytime.
of the Galway–Clifden onto it. After 10 km Spanish Arch; 091 561 114;
www.ardbia.com
railway bridge. (6 miles), turn right to the Connemara
Just past a slipway on Waterside, Marble Visitor Centre in Moycullen. Below A currach, or traditional sailing
turn right down St Francis Street and boat, in Galway City Museum
walk back towards the centre. At the The Claddagh Ring
junction with Eglinton Street, turn
right and follow Mary Street into A traditional wedding ring featuring
two hands holding a heart with a
Bowling Green. Here is Nora Barnacle crown on top, the Claddagh ring
House (open summer for guided tours) takes its name from the oldest
7, the family home of Nora Barnacle, fishing village in Galway, on the
muse and long-suffering spouse of west bank of the River Corrib. It is
the writer James Joyce, who visited said to have been designed in the
Nora here. Now a museum, it houses 1730s by goldsmith Richard Joyce,
who presented it to William III as a
Joycean memorabilia and holds mark of gratitude for securing his
readings of Joyce’s work. release from Moorish pirates. If
Around the corner, on Lombard the heart on the ring is pointing
Street, is the Collegiate Church of towards the body, it means the
St Nicholas 8. Founded in 1320, it wearer’s heart is taken; if it points
is the largest functioning medieval outwards, the heart is open.
Internationally famous, the
church in Ireland. Legend has it that Claddagh ring has been worn by
Christopher Columbus prayed here such diverse figures as John Wayne
prior to his voyage to the New World. and Queen Victoria.
Behind the church, in Church Lane, is
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50
184-189_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 185 11/09/17 12:30 pm

186 BACK ROADS IRELAND


















Above Fishing boat on lovely Lough Corrib
Above right Brigit’s Celtic-inspired garden 2 Connemara Marble In spring, when the mayflies hatch,
Visitor Centre Oughterard becomes a magnet for
Moycullen, Co Galway trout fishermen. The best way to see
WHERE TO STAY Connemara is famous for its marble. the lake is to take a boat trip with
AROUND OUGHTERARD Sometimes referred to as Irish jade, Corrib Cruises, who operate boats
year-round (www.corribcruises.com).
it is valued for its subtle shades of
Camillaun Lodge and Angling
Centre inexpensive green, the result of large copper The boat drops passengers on
Family-run guesthouse on the banks deposits in the area. The process beautiful Inchagoill Island, the site
of the River Owenriff, with direct of turning it into jewellery, ashtrays of a ruined monastery and
access to Lough Corrib. Facilities and chess sets can be seen at the Romanesque church.
include a garden hot tub. Connemara Marble Visitor Centre For information on fishing, call by
Oughterard (turn right down Camp
Street at the Boat Inn); 091 552 678; (open May–Oct: daily; Nov–Apr: Mon–Fri). Thomas Tuck’s tackle shop on Main
www.camillaun.com; closed Nov–Jan Items can be bought in the showroom. Street. Next door is the Yew Tree
ª Take Chapel Road out of Moycullen Bakery and Café, a good place to
Currarevagh House moderate
Country house from 1842, set in and turn right onto the N59 towards stock up for a picnic.
beautiful woodland. Good restaurant Oughterard. After 7 km (4 miles), turn ª From Oughterard, continue north
(open to non-residents for dinner). right at a sign pointing to Brigit’s along the N59, and turn right onto the
Oughterard (7 km/4 miles outside the Garden (2 km/1 mile off the N59). R336 at Maam Cross.
town on the Glann road); 091 552 312;
www.currarevagh.com; closed Nov–Feb
3 Brigit’s Garden 5 Maam Valley
AROUND INAGH VALLEY Rosscahill, Co Galway Co Galway
Ballynahinch Castle Hotel expensive This is a contemporary garden (open This scenic drive along the R336
Sumptuous 4-star hotel in extensive mid-Feb–Sep) dedicated to the four through the Maam Valley is an
woodland. Lunch is available to non- seasonal Celtic festivals. Cynics might opportunity to enjoy the splendours
residents in the bar.
Recess (on the R341 to Toombeola); 095 find it a bit new-agey but there is a of Connemara in relative isolation.
31006; www.ballynahinch-castle.com real sense of wonderment here and The blanket bog (thinner and flatter
children generally love it. The large than the raised bog of the Midlands)
Lough Inagh Lodge expensive
This former hunting lodge with a grounds feature sculptures, standing imbues the area with a desolate
lakeside setting is a perfect retreat. stones, ring forts, nature trails and beauty, and if the light is right the
Recess (on the R344 towards Leenane pools, and the excellent café uses vivid yellow gorse and pale green
and Letterfrack); 095 34706; produce from the garden. Particularly reeds yield a rich palette of colours. It
www.loughinaghlodgehotel.ie;
closed mid-Dec–mid-Mar attractive are the ancient woodland is worth stopping the car for a closer
and wild flower meadows. look and a walk. Eventually the road
AROUND DERRIGIMLAGH BOG ª Return to the N59, turn right and skirts the billowing curves of the
Ardagh Hotel moderate continue northwest to Oughterard Maumturk Mountains and enters the
Family-run hotel overlooking Ardbear (7 km/4 miles). There is a large car park village of Leenane. Follow the road
Bay. The restaurant specializes in on the right on the way into town. uphill onto the N59 west to Clifden.
locally caught seafood. Look out for splendid views of Killary
Ballyconneely Rd, Clifden (just south of
town); 095 21384; www.ardaghhotel.com 4 Oughterard Harbour (see pp176–7) on the right.
Co Galway ª Continue on the N59 towards
ROUNDSTONE The gateway to Connemara, this is a Clifden. Just before Kylemore Abbey
St Josephs B&B inexpensive lively town and an important angling turn left onto the R344, signposted
Cosy and welcoming with good centre. Its main attraction is Lough Recess (Sraith Salach; 16 km/10 miles)
breakfasts, in the heart of the village.
Roundstone; 095 35865; Corrib, Ireland’s second largest lake, The signpost is tucked in tight on a
www.roundstonebandb.com 2 km (1 mile) north of the town itself. sharp corner, so be careful not to miss it.
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200
184-189_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 186 13/10/17 1:06 pm
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DRIVE 18: Connemara’s Coast 187


6 Inagh Valley ª Return to the R341 and cut straight
Co Galway across onto a narrow well-paved road.
This stretch of the route passes Drive up the hill and pull into the car
through one of the most scenic park (1 km/half a mile). Below is the
valleys in Connemara, with broad official Alcock and Brown Monument.
swaths of blanket bogland on There are also wonderful views across
either side of the road. It eventually the broad sweep of Mannin Bay.
squeezes through the Maumturk Return to the R341, turn right,
and Twelve Bens mountains. There following the signs for Ballyconneely
are wonderful views of Lough Inagh and Roundstone.
to the right.
ª Regaining the N59, turn right and 8 Roundstone
drive into Clifden (21 km/13 miles). Co Galway
Entering Clifden (see p174), turn left Eventually the coast road loops
onto the R341 coast road, signposted around to Roundstone (Cloch na
Ballinaboy and Ballyconneely. In Ron – “Seal Rock”). Perched high above
Ballinaboy, ignore the left turn for the fishing harbour and looking out
Toombeola and instead take the next across island-studded Bertraghboy Above A Connemara pony, a sturdy breed
left, a narrow road leading through Bay, this is the most picturesque suited to the rugged landscape
Derrigimlagh Bog for 2 km (1 mile) village on the Connemara coast. In
and ending in a cul de sac. the distance, framing the expanse EAT AND DRINK
of water, are the Twelve Bens and
Maumturks; behind the village, OUGHTERARD
Errisbeg (300 m/984 ft), a 2-hour hike Breathnach’s Bar inexpensive
(follow the road past O’Dowd’s pub), Country pub with good home
cooking and live music sessions.
affords some of the finest views in Camp St; 091 552 2818;
all Connemara. www.breathnachs.com
Culturally vibrant, Roundstone has
become a magnet for craftsmen and AROUND DERRIGIMLAGH BOG
artists, and in summer holds a regatta Keoghs Bar moderate
of traditional Galway hookers. It Popular family-run bar/restaurant.
Wide range of dishes from sirloin steak
also has a couple of good bars and to warm crab claws with lemon butter.
restaurants, including O’Dowd’s On the R341 south of Clifden.
(see right). Three kilometres (2 miles) Ballyconneely; 095 23522
southwest of town, off the R341, ROUNDSTONE
the beautiful white sandy coves of O’Dowd’s inexpensive–moderate
Gorteen Bay and Dog’s Bay, lie back- In business since 1906, this
to-back on a headland. harbourfront pub has superb food,
ª Follow the R341 coastal road to wood-panelled walls and open fires.
Above The pretty fishing village of Toombeola (7 km/4 miles) and turn Harbour; 095 35809;
www.odowdsseafoodbar.com
Roundstone, clustered around its harbour right onto the R342. Continue past
Cashel and take the first right onto the
7 Derrigimlagh Bog R340, signposted Glinsce and Carna, Below Gorteen Bay, one of two idyllic
Co Galway skirting Bertraghboy Bay. beaches near Roundstone
This area of bogland on the western
fringes of Europe was once at the
forefront of modern technology,
for it is the site of the world’s first
transatlantic radio station, built by
Guglielmo Marconi and opened with
a staff of 150 in 1907. The concrete
block and rusty chain by the small
lough at the end of the road are the
remains. Nearby, a white cairn marks
another historic event. On 15 June
1919 John Alcock and Arthur
Whitten Brown crash-landed their
Vickers Vimy bomber biplane here
after completing the first non-stop
flight across the Atlantic.




184-189_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 187 13/10/17 1:06 pm

188 BACK ROADS IRELAND


9 Bertraghboy Bay unfree shall never be at peace”
Co Galway became the rallying cry for many
Rugged and windswept, and littered Irish patriots. The cottage contains
with tiny islands, Betraghboy Bay is mementos of Pearse’s life.
breathtakingly beautiful. On the far While here, it is worth exploring
side of the bay is Carna, an important the Rosmuck Peninsula on foot to
lobster fishing centre, from where it appreciate the fabulous setting.
is a short hop of 5 km (3 miles) to ª Drive back to the R340 and
Mweenish (Maoinis), an island linked continue east. Around 5 km (3 miles)
by bridge to the mainland and with past Glencoh turn right onto the R336
beautiful sandy beaches. Due west for Rossaveel (signposted Rós an
of Maoinis is isolated St Mac Dara’s Mhíl), the main port for the Aran
Island (Oileán Mhic Dara), one of the Islands. Cars cannot be taken onto
many uninhabited islands in this the islands, so park in the port.
area. It has the remains of a church
and the bed (grave) of St Mac Dara.
Above Pearse’s Cottage, the summer home of The island is so sacred that fishermen
the revolutionary Pádraig Pearse used to dip their sails three times as
a mark of respect when passing.
ª From Carna turn right onto the
coastal R340 and follow it around the
headland, with views of Kilkieran Bay
on the right. Pass through the village
of Kilkieran and just before Glinn
WHERE TO STAY
Chatha turn right, following the sign
for Ros Muc and Pearse’s Cottage.
THE ARAN ISLANDS (OILEÁIN
ARANN) 0 Pearse’s Cottage (Teach Above Traditional red-sailed Galway hookers
An Dún Guest House inexpensive an Phiarsaigh) catch the breeze in Galway Bay
Welcoming guesthouse at the foot of
Connor’s Fort on Inishmaan. Five en Rosmuck Peninsula, Co Galway q The Aran Islands (Oileáin
suite rooms with lovely views, and Located just off the R340, Pearse’s Arann)
dinner available too. Cottage (open daily) was the summer Co Galway
Inishmaan; 099 73047; www.inismeain residence of the Dublin school This trio of islands on the western
accommodation.ie; Mar–Nov only
teacher, revolutionary and writer fringes of Europe – Inishmore (Inis Mor;
Kilmurvey House inexpensive Pádraig Pearse (1879–1916). Great Island), Inishmaan (Inis Meáin;
Situated between Kilronan and Bun Following the collapse of the 1916 Middle Island) and Inisheer (Inis Oírr;
Gowla on the west side of the island,
at the foot of Dun Aengus, this 150- Uprising, Pearse and 14 other leaders Eastern Island) – are a continuation of
year-old stone house has en suite were executed, thus becoming the limestone base of the Burren in
bedrooms with fine views. Dinner martyrs to the cause. Pearse used this North Clare (see p127). Far out in
served in summer. cottage to run a summer school for Galway Bay, they act as a bulwark,
Kilmurvey, Inishmore; 099 61218;
www.aranislands.ie his students. It was also where he helping to protect the city of Galway
penned his graveside oration for from the driving force of the Atlantic.
Man of Aran Cottage inexpensive the nationalist hero Jeremiah For many Irish people, the islands
Delightful cottage offering limited
but good accommodation beside O’ Donovan Rossa in 1915. The symbolize a Celtic Eden, where Irish
Kilmurvey beach on the west side of closing words of the speech, “Ireland traditions, from language to dress, as
Inishmore. Only one room is en suite.
Evening meals available on request.
Kilmurvey, Inishmore; 099 61301;
Mar–Oct only
SPIDDAL (AN SPIDÉAL)
An Cruiscin Lan Hotel and
Restaurant inexpensive
Popular, modern hotel in the middle
of Spiddal. Rooms are spacious and
en suite. Restaurant attached.
Spiddal; 091 553148;
www.cruiscin.ie
Right The blanket bogland of Connemara,
long harvested for peat




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DRIVE 18: Connemara’s Coast 189














Above left Looking over the cliff edge at Dun
well as farming and fishing methods, pre-Christian fort, and Synge’s Aengus, Inishmore Above centre A jaunting
persist. The playwright J M Synge Cottage, where the playwright car on the Aran Islands Above right
(1871–1909) put the islands on the stayed during his time here. Kilmurvey Beach, Inishmore
map with the publication of Playboy of Sights on the smallest of the three
the Western World in 1907. A fraught islands, Inisheer, include the ruined
tale of love and murder, it was inspired Church of St Gobnait and the 15th-
by time he spent on Inishmaan. century O’Brien’s Castle.
The largest island, Inishmore is the ª From Rossaveel, continue along VISITING THE ARAN ISLANDS
(OILEÁIN ARANN)
most visited. Boats arrive at Kilronan the R336 to Spiddal.
(Cill Rónáin), where bicycles can be Tourist Information
hired and jaunting cars (pony and Aran Sweaters For information on accommodation,
traps) wait to give island tours. The These thick woollen jumpers with which is very limited and needs to be
Aran Heritage Centre (Apr–Oct) in elaborate patterns on the front are booked, contact the tourist board.
Kilronan; 099 61263; open daily
Kilronan is worth a visit. traditionally worn by Aran Island
Inishmore’s main attraction is Dun fishermen. Knitted from unscoured Aran Heritage Centre
Aengus (Dun Aonghasa), an Iron Age wool that retains its natural lanolin, Kilronan; 099 61355;
www.visitaranislands.com;
they protected the fishermen from
promontory fort, thrillingly located the worst of the elements. Each open Apr–Oct
on the edge of soaring granite cliffs. pattern was unique to a family or Aran Island Ferries
It has four concentric stone walls and village, and would help identify the Aran Island Ferries operates a year-
is protected by a chevaux de frise, a wearer in case of a fatality at sea. round passenger service to the Aran
ring of razor-sharp stone stakes. Islands (cars are not allowed), with
Further along the coast, Dún several boats a day. The crossing takes
Duchathair, known as the Black w Spiddal (An Spidéal) about 40 minutes.
4 Forster St, Galway (main office);
Fort, has dry-stone ramparts. Co Galway Rossaveel (ferry terminal); 091 568 903;
Other sights include Teampall This long coastal village marks the www.aranislandferries.com
Chiaráin, a ruined 12th-century end of the Gaeltacht region. It has
church with striking doorways, and a Blue Flag beach (Silver Strand),
Na Seacht d’Teampaill, the “Seven and curragh races along the shore EAT AND DRINK ON THE ARAN
Churches”, a monastery built in summer. Next to the beach, the ISLANDS (OILEÁIN ARANN)
between the 9th and 15th centuries. Spiddal Craft Village (open year-round),
Inishmaan is the chief bastion of a complex of small craft studios, Joe Watty’s inexpensive
Lively music pub with a lovely, shaded
Aran culture and is much quieter sells high quality textiles, musical beer garden and good food too.
than the other islands. Among its instruments, ceramics, jewellery Kironan, Inishmore; 086 049 4509;
main sights are Dún Chonchúir, a and leatherwork. www.joewattys.com
DAY TRIP OPTIONS of Ireland, including the N6 (linking Celtic Eden
Spend a day in Galway, drive around with M4 from Dublin and N18 from Take a ferry to the Aran Islands q.
island-studded Betraghboy Bay or Shannon) and the N17 from the north. At 13 km (8 miles) long and 3 km
escape to the Aran Islands. (2 miles) wide, Inishmore is easy to
Island-studded Betraghboy Bay explore by bike or jaunting car.
Vibrant Galway Stroll around the picturesque village
Galway 1 is a great place to spend of Roundstone 8, then head for Rossaveel is 32 km (20 miles) west
a day. Stroll on the waterfront, visit rugged Betraghboy Bay 9 to of Galway along the R336/R372.
Nora Barnacle’s House and sample experience the outstanding beauty The ferry companies operate
some of Ireland’s best pubs. of coastal Connemara. shuttle buses between Galway
and Rossaveel to coincide with
Galway is easily reached from the rest Follow the drive instructions.
ferry crossings.
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive, over €50


184-189_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 189 13/10/17 1:06 pm

BR_IR_190-191-Opener19.indd 190 23/10/09 14:30:43
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Highlights
• Georgian elegance
Browse the galleries and bookshops
of “pretty little” Westport
• A holy mountain
Trek to the summit of Croagh Patrick
and be rewarded by stupendous
views over Clew Bay
• Rugged coastline
Head along the south coast of Achill
Island and be thrilled by dramatic
headlands lashed by crashing waves
• Sandy beaches
Escape to one of the county’s many
idyllic beaches for crystal-clear seas,
white sand and water sports
View over the many islands of Clew Bay from
Croagh Patrick
BR_IR_190-191-Opener19.indd 191 23/10/09 14:30:46

192 BACK ROADS IRELAND

Mayo’s Coastal Splendour

Mayo lies in the far west of Connaught. Gloriously beautiful, it has never had
it easy. The land here can be grudging and the wild seas unforgiving.
During the Great Famine the county experienced the highest levels of
emigration and its sense of isolation is a legacy of this. Many visitors bypass
Mayo, drawn by the rugged beauty of Connemara or the romance of Sligo.
They miss much – heather-mantled bog lands, majestic mountains
and a stunning coastline. If you could eat scenery, a local saying
goes, Mayo would be the richest county on earth. Srahnamanragh
Srahnamanragh
Bridge
Kinrovar
Nowhere is this wealth more evident than in the Kinrovar Bridge
broad sweep around Clew Bay – Doona Knockmoyleen
Doona
Knockmoyleen
from Westport to Achill Island. Ridge Fahy Fahy
Ridge
Drumsleed
Lough
Point Lough Drumsleed
Point
Door
DOOGORT Valley Dooreeleel
DOOGORT
Valley
Ballycroy
Ballycroy
Saddle Ballycroy Ballycroy N N
Saddle
Slievemore
Head
Head Slievemore Pier Pier e e
672m
672m
p p
THE DESERTED
THE DESERTED Bellagarvaun h h
Bellagarvaun
VILLAGE Inishbiggle Srahduggaun
VILLAGE
Srahduggaun
Inishbiggle
Bulls
Keel Keel Bulls
Mouth
Lough
Croaghaun
Croaghaun Lough Mouth
DOOAGH
Achill Head 669m DOOAGH KEEL Bunacurry Drumgollagh i n B e g R a n g e e
Achill Head
Bunacurry
KEEL
669m
Drumgollagh
Annagh
Closhreid
Closhreid (Bun an Churraigh) Annagh
(Bun an Churraigh)
Island
Island
KEEM BAY Keel Keel
KEEM BAY
i n B e g R a n g
Cashel
Stra
Keemem Strandnd Dookinelly Cashel Cushcamcarragh
Dookinelly
Ke
Cushcamcarragh
(An Caiseal)
Strandnd (An Caiseal) 714m
Stra
714m
MINAUN HEIGHTS Tonregee
MINAUN HEIGHTS
Tonregee
Salia Salia (Tóin re Gaoth)
(Tóin re Gaoth)
(Sáile)
Mweelin (Sáile)
Mweelin
466m
466m
ACHILL SOUND
ACHILL SOUND Lough
Lough
(Gob an Choire)
(Gob an Choire)
Feeagh
Pollranny Feeagh
Pollranny
MA YO
(Poll Raithní)
Dooega
Dooega (Poll Raithní) MA YO
Achill Island
Head
Head Achill Island Belfarsad Furnace
Furnace
(Acail
Dooega (Acaill)l) Belfarsad
Dooega
(Béal Feirste)
(Dumha Éige)
(Dumha Éige) (Béal Feirste) Maryland Furnace
Furnace
Maryland
Curraun
Curraun
Lough
Lough
Letterlough
Knockbreaga
Portnahally or A c h il l So un d A c h il l So un d Peninsula Knockbreaga Letterlough
Peninsula
Portnahally or
Mallaranny
Ashleam Bay
Ashleam Bay Corraun Hill Mallaranny Rosturk Carrowbeg Derrykill
Rosturk
Corraun Hill
Derrykill
Carrowbeg
525m
ATLANTIC DRIVE 525m
ATLANTIC DRIVE
Newport
Monish
Dooghbeg
Carrick Kildavnet Dooghbeg Monish Newport
Carrick Kildavnet
More
More
(An Dumhach Bheag)
(An Dumhach Bheag)
Cloghmore
Cloghmore
Newpor
(An Chloich Mhóir) Newpor t t
(An Chloich Mhóir)
Bolinglanna
Bolinglanna Bay ay
B
Achillbeg Island (Buaile an Ghleanna) Brockagh
Achillbeg Island
(Buaile an Ghleanna)
Brockagh
(Acaill Bheag)
(Acaill Bheag)
Kilmeena
Kilmeena
Drumhuskert
Above The Atlantic Drive through spectacular coastal Island ROSSCAHILL Drumhuskert
ROSSCAHILL
Island
Clogher
More
scenery, on Achill Island, see p196 More PIER PIER Clogher
Collan
Cle w Ba y y Collan Drumgarve
Cle w Ba
More
More
Drumgarve
Clare
Clare
ACTIVITIES Island Ballytoohy Maum Carrownaclea
Ballytoohy
Island
Carrownaclea
Maum
Carrahelly
Carrahelly
Explore the hundreds of islands Kinnahooey Westport
Kinnahooey
Westport
Westport
WESTPORT
Quay
in Clew Bay by kayak Toormore Bartrawaw Westport Quay WESTPORT
Toormore
Bartr
Bay Bay
See the fortified towers built by a Old Head Leckanvy Murriskisk
Leckanvy
Old Head
Murr
16th-century pirate queen Kilsallagh CROAGH Killadangan
Kilsallagh
CROAGH
Killadangan
PATRICK
PATRICK
Louisbur
Stroll along the sands of Keel beach Carrowmore Louisburghgh
Carrowmore
Croagh Patr
framed against the dramatic backdrop Roonah Quay Croagh Patrickick Knappagh
Roonah Quay
Knappagh
765m
765m
of Minaun Heights
Mullagh Teevenarroaghy
Teevenarroaghy
Mullagh
Liscarney
Lough
Lough Liscarney
Visit the Deserted Village at the foot Nacorra
Nacorra
of the Slievemore Mountains
KEY
Drive route
192-193_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 192 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 19: Mayo’s Coastal Splendour 193

PLAN YOUR DRIVE

Start/finish: Westport to Doogort.
Number of days: 2–3, allowing one
day on Clew Bay and two on Achill
Island.
Distance: 84 km (51 miles).
Road conditions: Well paved and
signposted. Some steep terrain with
Srahnamanragh
Srahnamanragh
Bridge
Kinrovar
Kinrovar Bridge hairpin bends.
When to go: The best time to visit is
Doona Knockmoyleen
Knockmoyleen
Doona
March to early November. Many
Ridge Fahy Fahy
Ridge
Drumsleed
Point Lough Drumsleed tourist facilities are closed in winter.
Point
Lough
Door
DOOGORT Valley Dooreeleel Above The white sandy beach at Keel, backed by the Opening times: Most shops and
DOOGORT
Valley
Ballycroy
Ballycroy
Saddle Ballycroy Ballycroy N N soaring sea cliffs of Minaun Heights, see p196 attractions are open from 9 or
Saddle
Slievemore
Head Slievemore Pier Pier e e
Head
672m
672m 10am to 5 or 6pm. Shops are usually
p p
THE DESERTED
THE DESERTED Bellagarvaun h h open from Mon to Sat, however
Bellagarvaun
VILLAGE
VILLAGE Inishbiggle Srahduggaun
Srahduggaun
Inishbiggle
Bulls
Keel Keel Bulls in large towns and shopping centres,
Mouth
Lough
Croaghaun
Croaghaun Lough Mouth shops usually stay open late one
DOOAGH
Achill Head
Achill Head 669m DOOAGH KEEL Bunacurry Drumgollagh i n B e g R a n g e e
669m
Bunacurry
KEEL
Drumgollagh
Annagh
Closhreid (Bun an Churraigh) Annagh night, usually Thu or Fri, and also open
Closhreid
(Bun an Churraigh)
Island
Island
KEEM BAY
KEEM BAY Keel Keel from 12 to 6pm on Sun. In most
i n B e g R a n g
Cashel
Keemem Strandnd Dookinelly Cashel Cushcamcarragh villages there are small convenience
Ke
Dookinelly
Stra
Cushcamcarragh
(An Caiseal)
Strandnd (An Caiseal) 714m
Stra
714m
MINAUN HEIGHTS
Tonregee
MINAUN HEIGHTS Tonregee stores which open from 7 or 8am until
Salia Salia (Tóin re Gaoth)
(Tóin re Gaoth)
(Sáile)
Mweelin (Sáile) late in the evening.
Mweelin
466m
466m
ACHILL SOUND
ACHILL SOUND Lough
Lough
(Gob an Choire) Main market days: Westport: Sat,
(Gob an Choire)
Feeagh
Pollranny
Pollranny Feeagh food and crafts; Thu, Country Market
MA YO
(Poll Raithní)
Dooega
Dooega (Poll Raithní) MA YO
Achill Island
Head Achill Island Belfarsad Furnace (food).
Head
Furnace
(Acail
Dooega
Dooega (Acaill)l) Belfarsad
(Béal Feirste)
(Dumha Éige)
(Dumha Éige) (Béal Feirste) Maryland Furnace Shopping: Westport has a couple of
Furnace
Maryland
Curraun
Curraun
Lough
Lough
Knockbreaga
Letterlough
Portnahally or A c h il l So un d A c h il l So un d Peninsula Knockbreaga Letterlough good bookshops, craft shops and
Peninsula
Portnahally or
Mallaranny
Ashleam Bay
Ashleam Bay Corraun Hill Mallaranny Rosturk Carrowbeg Derrykill galleries selling books and prints on
Rosturk
Corraun Hill
Derrykill
Carrowbeg
525m
ATLANTIC DRIVE
ATLANTIC DRIVE 525m Irish themes.
Newport
Monish
Dooghbeg
Carrick Kildavnet Dooghbeg Monish Newport Major festivals: Westport: Croagh
Carrick Kildavnet
More
More
(An Dumhach Bheag)
(An Dumhach Bheag)
Cloghmore
Cloghmore Patrick Pilgrimage, last Sun in July;
Newpor
(An Chloich Mhóir) Newpor t t
(An Chloich Mhóir)
Bolinglanna
Bolinglanna Bay ay Arts Festival, Sep/Oct; Achill Island:
B
Achillbeg Island
Achillbeg Island (Buaile an Ghleanna) Brockagh Walking Festival, Mar/Apr; Heinrich
(Buaile an Ghleanna)
Brockagh
(Acaill Bheag)
(Acaill Bheag)
Böll Weekend, early May; Yawl Sailing
Kilmeena Drumhuskert
Kilmeena
Drumhuskert
ROSSCAHILL
Island
Island ROSSCAHILL Festival, Jul/Aug.
More Clogher
More
Clogher
PIER PIER
Collan
Cle w Ba y y Collan Drumgarve
Cle w Ba
More
More
Drumgarve
Clare
Clare
Ballytoohy
Island Ballytoohy Maum Carrownaclea
Island
Carrownaclea
Maum
Carrahelly
Carrahelly DAY TRIP OPTIONS
Kinnahooey
Kinnahooey Westport
Westport
Westport
Westport Quay
WESTPORT
Quay
Toormore
Toormore Bartrawaw WESTPORT
Bartr
Bay Bay For a day of gentle pottering,
Leckanvy
Old Head Leckanvy spend the morning browsing the
Old Head
Murriskisk
Murr
Kilsallagh CROAGH Killadangan bookshops and galleries of
Kilsallagh
CROAGH
Killadangan
PATRICK
PATRICK Westport, before an invigorating
Louisburghgh
Louisbur
Carrowmore
Carrowmore hike up Croagh Patrick for the
Croagh Patr
Roonah Quay
Roonah Quay Croagh Patrickick Knappagh
Knappagh
765m
765m outstanding views. For beach-lovers,
Teevenarroaghy
Mullagh
Mullagh Teevenarroaghy Achill Island is the highlight of Mayo.
Liscarney
Lough
Lough Liscarney Follow Atlantic Drive around its
Nacorra
Nacorra
southern tip to the beaches at
Dooega and Keel. End either day
0 kilometres 5
with a music session, in Westport
0 miles 5 or Dooagh. For full details, see p197.
192-193_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 193 11/09/17 11:38 am

194 BACK ROADS IRELAND

1 Westport
Co Mayo
Set on the shores of Clew Bay, Westport is one of the prettiest and
most congenial towns in Ireland, with an understated Georgian
elegance. The English satirist William Thackeray, visiting in 1842,
wrote in his book Irish Sketch Book: “Nature has done much for the
pretty little town of Westport; and after Nature, the traveller ought to
be thankful to Lord Sligo, who has done a great deal too.” This is a fair
appraisal. Sligo commissioned planners and the English architect
James Wyatt to design his mansion, its grounds and the town
bordering his estate in the 1770s.
A two-hour walking tour the church onto New Road to the
Westport is one of a handful of Linen Mill 3, which sells homeware
planned towns in Ireland, its carefully made in the adjoining 1960s
arranged streets forming a neat weaving factory. Trace your steps
square. From the Mall, walk down back to the turn for the North Mall
James Street to the Octagon 1 for and head down it, taking in the
the start of the walk. The town’s Anglican church. Cross back over the
Above Westport House, the home of Lord oldest buildings are arranged around bridge and walk up Bridge Street, the
Sligo, who planned the town of Westport this striking octagonal main square. town’s other main thoroughfare, with
In the middle, perched several good restaurants.
on a lofty plinth, is a Halfway up the street is
statue of St Patrick, Matt Molloy’s 4, owned
under whose benign by the Chieftains’ flautist,
gaze the town sits. Matt Molloy, and the
From the Octagon, best place for a
walk back down James traditional Irish music
VISITING WESTPORT Street towards the Mall. session. Westport’s
Look out on the right music scene really
Parking for the Sea Sky Shore comes alive every year
All parking in Westport is metered. You Gallery 2, featuring during its 10-day Arts
can park in most streets for free for up
to 1 hour. The best place to park is on local artists’ work. Beer barrels stacked Festival (late Sep/early
the Mall at the end of James Street. The Mall, a popular up outside a pub Oct; www.westportarts
Tourist Information promenade, flanks the festival.com). Walk back
Bridge St, Westport. Co Mayo; 098 Carrowbeg River, its two sides, South down Bridge Street, to South Mall
25711; www.discoverireland.ie/west Mall and North Mall, linked by a and the car park.
series of bridges – Wyatt changed To get to the town’s main attraction,
KAYAKING the course of the river in order to Georgian Westport House and
accommodate his grand designs for Gardens, drive down James Street to
Ireland West Sea Kayaking the town. Cross the river at James the Octagon, forking right up Quay
Explore the islands of Clew Bay by Street and take the second left by Hill, off Peter Street, for 2 km (1 mile).
kayak. Small excursions set out from
Westport regularly in summer.
086 173 3610; 0 metres 150 Linen Mill
www.irelandwestseakayaking.com
0 yards 150
WHERE TO STAY IN WESTPORT Carrowbeg CASTLEBAR ST
Clew Bay Hotel inexpensive J A M E S S T R E E T S O U T H M A L L River
N O R T H M A L L
Family-run hotel on James Street. Sea Sky Shore
Well-appointed rooms and helpful Gallery
staff. Guests have free access to the
leisure centre next door. Matt Molloy’s
James St; 098 28088; B R I D G E S T R E E T
www.clewbayhotel.com Octagon
Wyatt Hotel inexpensive
Small, stylish hotel with an unbeatable PE TER ST
location on the Octagon. Q U AY S T R E E T S H O P S T R E E T
Octagon; 098 25027; Westport House M I L L S T R E E T
www.wyatthotel.com and Gardens
Where to Stay: inexpensive, under €100; moderate, €100–€200; expensive, over €200


194-197_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 194 13/10/17 1:06 pm

DRIVE 19: Mayo’s Coastal Splendour 195














Above left Matt Molloy’s in Westport Above
The former home of the Earls of Patrick Information Centre at the centre Statue of St Patrick at the foot of
Altamont (open mid-Feb–Oct: daily) has base of the mountain to make the Croagh Patrick overlooking Clew Bay Above
a sweeping marble staircase and is ascent, which takes about two hours, Madonna and Child icon on Croagh Patrick
adorned with family portraits. It has followed by a 90-minute descent.
embraced tourism, with swan At the foot of Croagh Patrick, on EAT AND DRINK
pedalos on the lake, a petting zoo, the other side of the R335, is the
and a minature railway. The gardens National Famine Memorial, a WESTPORT
are peaceful and worth a wander. harrowing depiction of one of the McCormack’s at the Andrew Stone
The harbourfront near the entrance so-called “coffin ships” that carried Gallery inexpensive
has restaurants, pubs and craft shops. Irish emigrants to North America as Above McCormack’s butcher shop. The
ª Turn right onto Quay Road, sign­ they fled the Great Famine (1845– menu includes quiches, cakes, bacon
and cabbage, soups and Irish stew.
posted Louisborough, then R335. Drive 52). The terrible conditions on the Bridge St; 098 25619
8 km (5 miles) west to Murrisk. Park by ships often led to death and disease. An Port Mór moderate
the Croagh Patrick Information Centre. ª Return along the R335 towards Classy food at affordable prices made
Westport. Just before Westport, turn by a French-trained patron/chef.
Mayo’s Pirate Queen left onto the N59 (north). A few Brewery Place; 098 26730;
In the 16th century, a pirate called kilometres (miles) after Westport www.anportmor.com
Grace O’ Malley, or “Granuaile”, look for a sign pointing left to The Pantry & Corkscrew moderate
pretty much ruled the roost from Rosscahill Pier (7 km/4 miles). Run by a husband-and-wife team, with
her power base on Clare Island. scrummy food; try Irish fish tempura.
With her fleet of 20 ships, she 3 Rosscahill Pier Peter Street, The Octagon; 098 26977;
belligerently defied Elizabethan Co Mayo www.thepantryandcorkscrew.com
forces, eventually gaining the A narrow but well-paved road leads CROAGH PATRICK
respect of Elizabeth I herself. The
remains of her strongholds can be to an inlet on Clew Bay. Across the The Tavern Bar and Restaurant
seen around Clew Bay and on Achill tranquil stretch of water is one of inexpensive–moderate
Island. She died in Newport in 1603. the best views of Croagh Patrick – Family-run restaurant at the foot of
Croagh Patrick. Seafood is the speciality.
magical on a clear summer’s evening. Murrisk; 098 64060;
ª Return to the N59 and continue www.tavernmurrisk.com
2 Croagh Patrick north to Mallaranny. Keep left on the
Co Mayo R319 signposted Achill, passing Below View across Clew Bay towards Clare
Ireland’s most sacred mountain, through Polranny to Achill Sound. Island from Atlantic Drive
Croagh Patrick occupies a peculiar
place in the Irish psyche. St Patrick,
who is credited with bringing
Christianity to Ireland in the 5th
century, is said to have fasted and
prayed on its summit for 40 days.
Every year on the last Sunday in July
– known as Reek Sunday – up to
40,000 pilgrims trek up its rocky
slopes, many in bare feet.
The ascent to the 765-m (2,510-ft)
summit is steep, with a scramble
over loose, shifting scree on the
upper half. However, the sweeping
view over Clew Bay, with its confetti
of islands, is ample reward. Pick up a
stout walking stick from the Croagh
Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive over €50


194-197_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 195 13/10/17 1:06 pm

196 BACK ROADS IRELAND


4 Achill Sound steadily to a viewing bay overlooking
(Gob an Choire) Ashlean Bay and north to Achill
Co Mayo Head, then descends into a series of
Islands in the west of Ireland have a hairpin bends, looping around the
special allure for the Irish. Often seen as small pebbly beach of Portnahally
the repository of a lost way of life, they before climbing the other side of the
remain potent symbols of the past. valley. At the next T-junction, turn left
Achill Island is no exception. Ireland’s to continue along Atlantic Drive and
largest island at 24 km (15 miles) long into Dooega, a picturesque, fishing
and 19 km (12 miles) wide, it is village with a Blue Flag beach.
connected to the mainland by a ª Minaun Heights loom large above
causeway. It has sandy beaches, Dooega – to drive to the top, turn left
dramatic cliffs, boglands and heathery immediately after Mickey’s Pub.
slopes. Over the years it has inspired
Above Keem Bay, beneath the Croaghaun artists and writers, including German 6 Minaun Heights
Heights on the west side of Achill Island writer Heinrich Böll, American painter Achill Island, Co Mayo
Robert Henri and painter Paul Henry. The road to Minaun Heights climbs
VISITING ACHILL ISLAND
The road bridge spans the narrow, steadily. Pass a school, take the next
Tourist Information winding strait at Achill Sound – a left and follow the road as it swings
Cashel; 098 47353; good place to stock up. Facilities here right over a small bridge, skirting the
www.achilltourism.com include an ATM, Internet access, a slopes of Mweelin Hill. Turn left at the
supermarket, hotels and restaurants. junction and drive up for views of
WHERE TO STAY ª On the island side of Achill Sound, Clare Island to the south west and
proceed for about 500 m (500 yards), Black Sod Bay to the north.
ACHILL SOUND then turn left off the R319, following ª Return to junction, turn left and go
Achill Island Hotel inexpensive signs for Atlantic Drive and Cois na along Mweelin road to R319. Follow it
Just before the causeway for Achill Farraige (“Road by the Sea”). to Cashel and Keel 3 km (2 miles) on.
Sound. Rooms have good views.
Achill Sound; 098 45138;
www.achillislandhotel.com 5 Atlantic Drive 7 Keel
Achill Island, Co Mayo Achill Island, Co Mayo
ATLANTIC DRIVE After 6 km (4 miles) the road skirts Keel is known for its white sandy
Lavelle’s Seaside House inexpensive the southern tip of the island and beach, framed by the soaring sea
Good-value B&B. Mickey’s, the bar next
door, serves sublime crab claws. the remains of an 18th-century cliffs of Minaun Heights, and is
Dooega; 098 45116; church and holy well, named after backed by a large lake, popular for
www.lavellesseasidehouse.com St Damhnait, an early Christian saint. water sports.
The graveyard looks across to Little ª Continue west on the R319 for a
KEEL Achill Island (Achill Beg). Nearby is couple of kilometres (miles) to Dooagh.
Achill Cliff House Hotel moderate Carrick Kildavnet, an almost intact
Family-run hotel with sweeping views
and a good restaurant. example of a 15th-century tower 8 Dooagh
Keel; 098 43400; www.achillcliff.com house, built by the O’ Malley clan Achill Island, Co Mayo
(see p195). From the pier there are fine Just west of Keel is the tiny village of
Bervie moderate
Guesthouse in the former coastguard views across the sound to Corraun Hill. Dooagh, which has a nice beach and
station. Has direct access to the beach. At Cloughmore, as the still waters several good cafés. Gielty’s, a popular
Keel; 098 43114; www.bervieachill.com of Achill Sound give way to Atlantic pub at the west end of the village,
breakers, some of Ireland’s most hosts traditional music sessions.
Below Stopping the traffic on the Slievemore spectacular coastal scenery unfolds. ª Continue on the R319 to Keem Bay
Mountain Below right The Deserted Village For 6 km (4 miles) the road rises (3 km/2 miles).


















194-197_Back_Roads_Ireland.indd 196 11/09/17 11:38 am

DRIVE 19: Mayo’s Coastal Splendour 197


Left Carrick Kildavnet, a 15th-century base of
the pirate Grace O’Malley

OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES
Achill Outdoor Activity Centre
provides an extensive programme of
outdoor activities and water sports,
with a strong emphasis on education.
It caters for small and large groups,
and also provides accommodation
(Cashel-Bunacurry; 098 47253;
www.achilloutdoor.com). Blackfield
Surf School rents out surfboards,
wetsuits and equipment, and offers
9 Keem Bay 0 The Deserted Village surfing instruction at all levels (Keel
Beach; 087 249 5175; www.blackfield.
Achill Island, Co Mayo Achill Island, Co Mayo com). For individuals, Keel’s seasonal
After Dooagh the road rises This is an eerie village, strung along tourist information office, by the
dramatically. At the peak is a lay-by the southern slopes of the beach, can provide information on
with views of the pincer-shaped Slievemore Mountain. The Great lake water sports as well as scuba
beach at Keem Bay, nestling at the Famine almost certainly played a diving, pony trekking and sea
kayaking (contact details as for Cashel
foot of the Croaghaun Heights, and part in its abandonment, which was tourist information office, see left).
across to Achill Head. Descend to the hastened when grants for fishing
blissfully unspoiled sandy beach – boats became available at the end
the furthest west you can drive on of the 19th century, and its villagers
the island. Bring provisions. were enticed away from the land
ª Retrace the R319 to Keel. In the to the sea.
village is Minaun View Bar and petrol ª Retrace the route to the bridge EAT AND DRINK
station. Fork left just before here and and turn left. Keeping the slopes of
then left again. Continue for 3 km Slievemore to the left, follow signs to KEEL
(2 miles) to the Deserted Village. Doogort (4 km/2 miles). Beehive Café inexpensive
Informal café-cum-craft shop in Keel.
q Doogort Menu includes home-made soups,
Achill Island, Co Mayo sandwiches and seafood. Full licence.
Nestling in the shadow of Slievemore Keel; 098 43134; open Mar–Nov
Mountain, the island’s highest point, DOOAGH
this tiny village overlooks another fine Gielty’s Coffee Shop inexpensive
Blue Flag beach. Opposite the As the road rises up towards Keem
Cottage Coffee Shop, the Red Fox Strand, this is the last opportunity for
Press sells hand-printed books and refreshments. The busy, family-run
prints of Achill Island. Seals can be restaurant is part of Gielty’s pub and
offers a variety of dishes.
spotted in the waters around the Dooagh; 098 43119; www.gieltys.com
northern tip of Achill, while amethyst
is found in the mountains here. From DOOGORT
Doogort, follow signs for Bunacurry The Cottage Coffee Shop
but turn left for Bulls Mouth 3 km inexpensive
Just opposite the beach in Doogort,
(2 miles) before it for a secluded this excellent, family-run café provides
Above The secluded Golden Strand at Bulls beach. From Bunacurry, the R319 inexpensive home cooking.
Mouth, between Doogort and Bunacurry leads back to Achill Sound. Doogort; 098 43966; open Easter–Sep
DAY TRIP OPTIONS Westport 1, where it is easy to Beach Life
For a gentle day laced with books, art while away a morning browsing in From Achill Sound 4, take Atlantic
and music, spend some time in and bookshops and galleries. After lunch, Drive 5 to the beach at Dooega,
around Westport. To make the most drive west for an afternoon hike up carrying on via Minaun Heights 6
of Mayo’s beaches, spend a day on Croagh Patrick 2 for views over the to Keel 7 and its beach, ending up
Achill Island, starting at Achill Sound. bay. Return to Westport for a drink at Dooagh for drinking and music.
and a traditional music session.
Culture and Conviction Follow the drive route from Achill
Spend a day exploring the perimeter Follow the drive route from Westport to Sound, taking the R319 along the spine
of island-dotted Clew Bay. Start at Croagh Patrick and back again. of the island for a direct route back.

Eat and Drink: inexpensive, under €25; moderate, €25–€50; expensive over €50


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Back Roads LAYERS PRINTED:
Section opener template “UK” LAYER
(OpenType)
Date 29th April 2009
Size 145mm x 217mm
Font Myriad Pro