(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest

BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  49

Hungarian Academy of Science
The façade of the academy is
adorned with statues by Emil Wolf
and Miklós Izsó, symbolizing
major fields of knowledge: law,
natural history, mathematics,
philos ophy, linguistics and history.


0 metres 800
0 yards 800



Gresham Palace
Now housing a Four Seasons
Hotel, this splendid example
KÓS KÁROLY HUNGÁR IA K ÖR Ú T of Secession design was
SÉTÁNY
built in 1905–7 by
Zsigmond Quittner.
Margit híd
A N DRÁ SS Y Ú T
SZENT
ISTVÁN KRT
NORTH OF
MA R GIT K Ö RÚT THE CASTLE PARLIAMENT D ÓZ S A GY ÖRGY Ú T
DISTRICT
AROUND
BÁTHORY U.
D
AROUND
F Ő U .
CASTLE a ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T VÁROSLIGET
n
DISTRICT u ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT
b
JÓZSEF
e
ATTILA U.
Széchenyi RÁ KÓCZI ÚT
lánchíd
ATTI LA Ú T
CENTRAL
PEST RÁKÓCZI Ú T
Pallavicini Palace
Gustáv Petschacher built
this Neo-Renaissance mansion
JANE HANING R.
K R IS ZTINA KÖRÚ T
on Kodály körönd in 1882.
Erzsébet The inner court yard was
MÚZEUM KRT
J ÓZ SEF KÖ R ÚT
HEGYALJA ÚT híd copied from the Palazzo
Marini in Milan.
VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
GELLÉRT HILL
AND TABÁN
Ervin Szabó Library
BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT palace that now houses this
The grand, Neo-Baroque
library was originally built in
1887 for the Wenckheims, a
family of rich industrialists.
Péterffy Palace
This plaque, commemorating a
flood of 1838, was placed on one
of the few Baroque mansions that
remain in Pest. The house was
built in 1756.
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50  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Exploring the Palaces
and Historic Buildings
Little more than fragments remain of Budapest’s Gothic and
Renaissance past. However, some Baroque buildings have
survived in Buda’s Castle District and Víziváros. Neo-Classicism,
on the other hand, has a much wider presence; there are many
apartment buildings, palaces and secular monuments built in
this style, especially around the old fortification walls of Pest
on the eastern side of the Danube. Historicism dominated the
architecture of the second half of the 19th century. It played a
vital role in the enlargement of the city as it expressed and
celebrated the optimism of the era.
Façade of the Gross Palace, built by
Trinitarian Monastery, now József Hild in 1824
Baroque Palaces and the Kiscelli Museum, stand as
Buildings
significant models of the style.
Many buildings in the Castle There are only two Baroque Neo-Classical Palaces
District and neighbouring monuments remaining in Pest. and Buildings
Víziváros, around Fő utca, have The Péterffy Palace, a mansion Neo-Classicism, influenced
retained their original Baroque that stands below the current by ancient Greco-Roman design,
façades. The main entrance of street level, dates from 1755. was popular in the first half of
the Hilton Hotel, formerly a Pest’s other Baroque edifice was, the 19th century as it reflected
17th-century Jesuit college, however, the first to be built in the confidence of this period of
is a fine example. either Buda or Pest. The huge national awakening and social
Other outstanding instances complex of the Municipal reform. Many monu mental
of this style are the four houses Council Offices, formerly a Neo-Classical structures were
on Vienna Gate Square, the hospital for veterans of the produced, including the Chain
Batthyány Palace on Parade Turkish wars, was constructed Bridge, built in 1839–49. The
Square and the Erdődy Palace by the Italian master Anton leading Neo-Classical architect
on Mihály Táncsics Street, now Erhard Martinelli. It was greatly was Mihály Pollack, who built the
the Museum of Musical History. admired by Empress Maria Hungarian National Museum.
The Zichy Palace in Óbuda is Theresa, who declared it to Two stunning Neo-Classical
a splendid Baroque edifice, and be more beautiful than the palaces deserve particular
the buildings of the former Schönbrunn Palace in Vienna. mention – Sándor Palace in
Buda and Károlyi Palace in Pest.
The first stands on Castle Hill, by
the top of the funicular railway,
and impresses visitors with its
harmonious elegance. The
second, now housing the Petőfi
Literary Museum, gained its
present form in 1834 after
considerable reconstruction.
A group of particularly attractive
Neo-Classical houses is situated
on József Nádor Square. Some of
their fea tures, such as the pillars,
projections and tympanums,
merit individual attention.
In 1808, the Embellishment
Commission was set up by the
Austrian architect János Hild to
develop Pest. He and his son,
József Hild, who built the Gross
Palace in 1824, were both
involved in the general
restoration of the city. Having
studied architecture in Rome,
they created many splendid
The outstanding Baroque façade of Erdődy Palace, Museum of Musical History Italianate buildings.




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BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  51


Frigyes Schulek’s Fishermen’s
Historicist Palaces Bastion features Neo-Gothic and
and Buildings Neo-Romanesque designs.
In the second half of the 19th The Vigadó, a concert hall built
century, Historicism took by Frigyes Feszl between 1859
precedence over Neo- and 1864, is often thought of as
Classicism. After the unification of the most magnificent Historicist
Buda, Óbuda and Pest in 1873, building, with its façade richly
Historicism had a significant decorated with relief
influence on the city’s sculptures and busts of
architectural the great Hungarians.
development. In this However, the complex
period Budapest of three French-style,
gained an eclectic mix Neo-Renaissance
of new apart ment palaces, Festetics, Károly
buildings and palaces, and Esterházy, in Mihály Beautiful Neo-Baroque interior of the
as Historicist architects Pollack Square, is also New York Palace
sourced different genres con sidered by many to
for inspiration. Miklós be a fine example. the Klotild Palaces incorporate
Ybl, whose work The Drechsler Palace Spanish-Baroque motifs and can
includes the Hungarian Sculptures on the in Andrássy út is a be admired near the Elizabeth
State Opera and the Vigadó façade marvellous model of Bridge. Perhaps one of the most
expansion of the Neo-Renaissance extra vagant exam ples of
Royal Palace, looked design, while Páris Nagyáház Historicism is the Neo-Baroque
to the Renaissance, while Imre (Paris depart ment store) features New York Palace by Alajos
Steindl designed a Neo-Gothic Lotz’s Hall, decor ated with Hauszmann, which has a
Parliament (to which a Neo- paintings and gold. The twin luxurious interior of marble
Renaissance dome was added). apartment buildings known as columns and rich colour.

Decorative Features Where to Find the
The façades of many palaces features, such as borders and Palaces and Historic
and buildings still display the tympanums, are visible on many
rich sculptural decoration buildings from the first half of Buildings
characteristic of the various the 19th century. Batthyány Palace p84
styles of architecture prevalent Chain Bridge pp66–7
in the city. These features include Drechsler Palace p119
coves, cartouches, finials, relief Erdődy Palace p85
sculptures and ornamental Ervin Szabó Library p139
window frames. Fishermen’s Bastion p84
Regrettably, almost no Gellért Hotel pp94–5
original Gothic detail remains in Golden Stag House p99
Budapest, but niches or pointed Gresham Palace p118
arches decorating old apartment Gross Palace p130
buildings can be spotted in A finial with cartouche on the Neo-Classical Hilton Hotel p85
the Old Town. Károlyi Palace Hungarian Academy of
Baroque elements are still Sciences p118
evident in fine buildings such as Hungarian National Museum
the Zichy Palace and the Erdődy pp134–7
Palace. Decorative Neo-Classical Hungarian State Opera pp122–3
József Nádor Square p130
Károlyi Palace p143
Klotild Palaces p131
Mihály Pollack Square p139
Relief on the Hungarian National
Bank (1905) Municipal County Offices p132
New York Palace p133
Parliament pp112–13
Péterffy Palace p126
Royal Palace pp74–5
Sándor Palace p77
Várkert Kiosk, Miklós Ybl Square p99
Cove detail on the Vienna Gate Square p88
façade of the Zichy Palace p175
Staffenberg House Ornate window frame adorning the house at 21 József Nádor utca



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52  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Budapest’s Best: Baths and Pools

Budapest is one of the great spa cities of Palatinus Strand Árpád híd
Europe. Numerous natural hot springs With ten swimming pools,
hot springs, water slides
pour out over 80 million litres (18 million gal) and a restful location on
of richly mineralized water every day. The Margaret Island, this
greatest concentrations of natural springs spa is perhaps the most
are situated in Óbuda, near Gellért Hill, on beautiful in Europe. N É PF ÜRD Ő U TC A
the Buda embank ment near Margaret VÁ C I Ú T
Bridge and on Margaret Island itself. Baths
have ex isted here since Roman times, but
it was the Turks who best exploited
Budapest’s natural resources. Today there Margaret
is a wide choice of therapeutic and ÁRPÁD FEJEDELEM ÚTJA Island LEH E L UTCA
recreational baths and pools.
KÓS KÁROLY
SÉTÁNY
Hajós Olympic Pool
The pool was designed by
Alfréd Hajós, who won Hungary’s
first Olympic gold medal for ANDR Á SS Y ÚT
swimming in 1896, and on the VÁ C I Ú T D ÓZ S A G YÖ R G Y Ú T
walls of the swimming hall hang Margit híd THÖ KÖLY ÚT
SZENT
gold-engraved marble plaques ISTVÁN KRT
citing Hungary’s numerous AROUND
Olympic champions. VÁROSLIGET
D
AROUND
a
MA R GIT K Ö RÚ T FŐ U . u BÁTHORY U. A N D RÁ SSY Ú T
PARLIAMENT
n
b
e
NORTH OF
THE CASTLE ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. E R Z SÉ BET K Ö R Ú T
DISTRICT
JÓZSEF
ATTILA U.
CASTLE Széchenyi CENTRAL RÁKÓ C Z I Ú T
DISTRICT lánchíd PETŐFI S. U. PEST
AT T I LA Ú T
Lukács Baths JANE HANING R.
These 19th-century J Ó ZSE F K ÖRÚ T
thermal pools are open KR ISZ TINA KÖRÚ T KÁROLYI M. U.
all year round, and
attract both tourists and Erzsébet híd
the locals of Budapest. M ÉSZÁROS U .
HEGYALJA ÚT
GELLÉRT
HILL AND KÖZRAKTÁR U.
Király Baths TABÁN
Dating from 1566, these
baths were built by the Turks
and have many authentic
Ottoman features. BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT


0 metres 900
0 yards 900






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BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  53

Dagály Strand
Half a century ago, it was discovered that
the water in a pond on this site was beneficial
Árpád híd
to health. Now a huge open-air complex
of swimming pools, children’s pools
and a hydrotherapy and fitness centre is
located here. The complex will remain
N É PF ÜRD Ő U TC A VÁ C I Ú T World Aquatics Championships.
closed in 2017, while it hosts the




LEH E L UTCA
Margaret
Island
KÓS KÁROLY
SÉTÁNY
ÁRPÁD FEJEDELEM ÚTJA
Széchenyi Baths
This spa has the deepest
thermal baths in Budapest
VÁ C I Ú T ANDR Á SS Y ÚT D Ó Z S A GY ÖR GY Ú T and the added attraction of
magnificent Neo-Baroque
Margit híd SZENT THÖ KÖLY ÚT architecture. The warmth of
AROUND the water is such that these
ISTVÁN KRT
VÁROSLIGET baths are popular even
during the winter season.
AROUND
D
a
MA R GIT K Ö RÚ T FŐ U . u e BÁTHORY U. A N D RÁ SSY Ú T
PARLIAMENT
n
b
NORTH OF
THE CASTLE ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. E R Z SÉ BET K Ö R Ú T
DISTRICT
JÓZSEF
ATTILA U.
CASTLE Széchenyi CENTRAL RÁ KÓCZI ÚT
DISTRICT lánchíd PETŐFI S. U. PEST
AT T I LA Ú T
Rudas Baths
JANE HANING R.
The most famous
of the Turkish baths were constructed
Erzsébet híd have an orig inal Ottoman cupola and
KÁROLYI M. U.
KR ISZ TINA KÖRÚ T
dur ing the 16th century. They still
J Ó ZSE F K ÖRÚ T
HEGYALJA ÚT octagonal pool.
M ÉSZÁROS U .
GELLÉRT
HILL AND KÖZRAKTÁR U.
TABÁN
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
Gellért Baths
The main indoor swim ming pool of
this popular Buda spa delights
bathers with its beautiful Secession
interior, marble columns and
colourful mosaics.




052-053_EW_Budapest.indd 53 15/09/16 10:30 am

54  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Exploring Budapest’s Baths up the biggest bathing complex
and Pools in Europe. In addition to the
usual indoor thermal pools, they
also boast outdoor thermal and
Heated deep inside the earth, the waters of the mineral- swimming pools, complete with
rich hot springs which bubble up through fractures in sun terraces. Among the hottest
the rocky hills of Buda and Óbuda have given the city a spa-waters in the city, the
Turkish-influenced bathing culture which has survived outdoor thermal pool is popular
even the rigours of Communism. A total of 31 spa-water even in the depths of winter.
As well as the thermal pools,
pools and thermal baths, including both indoor and Budapest’s bathing establish-
outdoor options, make taking the waters an unmissable ments also include a steam
treat for visitors to Budapest. room and sauna. Professional
massages are almost always
available for a small fee. Some
Veli Bej Bath is right next to places offer medicinal mud
The Turkish Influence the Lukács Baths complex baths. You will be invited to
Although the ruins of Roman (see below). take a shower, and indulge in
thermal baths dating from the Many of the city’s newer a short nap in the rest room
2nd century AD have been baths and almost all the Turkish before you leave.
found in Óbuda, it was only baths are for both men and
under the Ottoman occupation women. The Rudas Baths are
of the 16th–17th centuries (see the exception; they are open to
pp28–9), that the bathing culture men only on weekdays, except
really took hold in Budapest. Tuesdays when they accept only
Four stunning Turkish-built women. At weekends they
baths, some of the few are open to both men and
rema ining examples of Ottoman women, when bathing suits
architecture in Budapest, are still are obligatory. On single-sex
in operation. The Rudas, the Rácz days a small apron is provided.
Hotel & Thermal Spa, the Király
and the Veli Bej Bath were all After the Turks
built in the 16th century, and are Swim in style at the Rudas Baths
con structed on a single model. The late 19th and early 20th
A marble staircase leads into century was a new golden
a chamber containing a dome- age for Budapest (see pp34–5), Spa Hotels
topped, octagonal thermal and saw the building of a Nestling at the foot of Gellért
pool, which is surrounded by number of splendid baths. Hill, the beautiful Gellért Hotel
smaller dome-covered pools at Many have spring-water and Baths Complex is the
temperatures ranging from icily swim ming pools attached. oldest and most famous of a
cold to roastingly hot. The most Opened in 1894 the Neo- handful of luxury hotels in
beautiful are almost certainly the Classical Lukács Baths offer two Budapest offering swimming
Rudas Baths, followed closely by outdoor swimming pools as and thermal pools, steam
the Király Baths. The Rácz Baths well as the 16th-century Császár rooms, sauna and massage. The
have been extended and facilities thermal pool. The Széchenyi renowned Gellért Baths were
improved to include a thermal Baths, opened 20 years later on opened to the general public
spa and hotel complex. The the Pest side of the river, make in 1918, and include a fabulous,
marble-columned indoor
swimming pool, a labyrinth
of thermal baths that can be
used by both sexes, single-sex
nudist sun-bathing areas and
an outdoor wave pool. A hugely
popular wave machine is
switched on in the latter for
10 minutes in every hour.
A second wave of spa-hotels
were built in the 1970s and
‘80s. Set on Margaret Island,
the modern, squeaky-clean
and extremely luxurious
Danubius Health Spa Resort
Margitsziget, is linked by an
Outdoor pool at the Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex underground passage to the




054-055_EW_Budapest.indd 54 15/09/16 10:32 am

BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  55


older Danubius Grand Hotel
Margitsziget. In addition to
the usual range of baths and
pools, treatments include
manicure, pedicure and a
solarium. The late 1980s saw
the arrival of two new spa
hotels, the Danubius Health
Spa Resort Helia not far
from the Pest riverbank and,
on the Buda side, the Aquincum
Hotel. Both hotels offer a huge
range of fitness and wellness
facilities, including gym
equipment, pools, steam baths
and a sauna, as well as a wide Széchenyi Baths, the biggest bathing complex in Europe
variety of treatments.
outdoor pools, some thermal and
Swimming as Sport
The Healing Waters some for swimming, complete
Many Hungarians are excellent with water slides and wave
The citizens of Budapest swimmers, and the country machines. Just east of the Pest
are great believers in the has achieved great success river bank is the vast, modern
social, psychological and in competitive water Dagály Strand complex.
medical benefits of the sports. In addition to Built after World War II, it
thermal baths. Office Budapest’s many includes 12 pools, with
workers will often visit the recreational pools, sports space for up to 12,000 people.
public baths as early as 6am, pools include the Hajós Dagály Strand will remain
to prepare for the day. Others Olympic Pool complex on closed in 2017 while it
like to visit at the end of Margaret Island. The hosts the World Aqua tics
the day, at 6pm, to relax,
recharge and work up an complex consists of three Championships. Others
appetite. Most of the baths sports pools, two outdoor, worth visiting include
employ staff who can including one at full Római Strand in Óbuda in
offer advice on the most Olympic size, and one the north of the city. Three
appropriate pools and special indoor. The pools are pools have been carefully
treatments for a particular used for professional rebuilt here, on the site
ailment. The warm, mineral- training, but are also of some Roman baths,
rich spa waters are extremely open to the public. Sculpture at together with a not-so-
good for general relaxation. Together with the the Római Strand Roman water chute. To
They can also be helpful in Komjádi Béla Swimming the north of the city at
the relief of a number of Stadium on Árpád Fejedelem Csillaghegy on the hév suburban
specific complaints, including útja, the Hajós Olympic Pool train line, Csillaghegy Strand
post-traumatic stress, joint is the place to go to see consists of three pools set in
and muscle damage, professional swim ming, picturesque grounds.
rheumatism and menstrual diving or water polo.
pain. Prices vary greatly at
Budapest’s public baths and Where to Find the
are no longer subsidised. A Day at the Strand Baths and Pools
Admission is usually around
3,000–6,000 forints, and a Designed as a complete bathing Aquincum Hotel p187
15-minute massage costs day out, the strands of Budapest Danubius Grand Hotel
about the same. All baths are a phenomenon not to be Margitsziget p177
employ expert masseurs. missed. The presence of about a Danubius Health Spa Resort Helia
dozen strands in the city testifies p188
to their popularity. Outdoor Danubius Health Spa Resort
swim ming and thermal pools are Margitszieget p177, p188
surrounded by grassy sun-bathing Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex
areas. Outdoor fitness facilities, pp94–5
tennis courts plus ping-pong and Hajós Olympic Pool p176
pool tables offer a change from Király Baths p105
the water, while ice creams, beers Lukács Baths p105
and hot dogs add to the Palatinus Strand p176
An ornamental tap, typical of the summer-holiday atmosphere. Rudas Baths p97
architectural detail found in The lovely Palatinus Strand, Széchenyi Baths p155
Budapest’s historic baths set in a large area of parkland Veli Bej Baths p105
on Margaret Island, boasts ten




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56  introducing bud apest

Budapest’s Best: the Secession

Visitors to budapest are often impressed by
its wonderful late 19th and early 20th century
buildings. the majority of these are found in
central pest and around Városliget; buda was
already developed at this stage and so boasts
few examples. the movement started among
groups of avant-garde artists in paris and Vienna,
from where the term secession comes. in budapest,
the secession style was also the inspiration for The School on Rose Hill
the development of the Hungarian national style. Dezső Zrumeczky , a student of the
renowned architect Károly Kós, used
Further details are given on pages 58–9. motifs from village houses in Transylvania
to give this building on Áldás utca
its character. HUNG Á RIA K RT

Woman with a
SÉTÁNY
Birdcage (1892) KÓS KÁROLY
This painting by József
Rippl-Rónai has an
Margit híd
atmosphere of mystery
and in timacy typical of SZENT ISTVÁN KRT
Hungarian art of the
period. It hangs in the A NDRÁSS Y Ú T D ÓZ S A G Y Ö R G Y ÚT
Hungarian National MAR GI T KÖ RÚT
NORTH OF
Gallery (see p81) today. THE CASTLE T ER É Z K ÖRÚ T
DISTRICT
AROUND AROUND
PARLIAMENT VÁROSLIGET
D
CASTLE a ROT TE NB ILLER U.
AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT TH Ö K ÖLY ÚT
F Ő U .
DISTRICT n ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R.
u
b
e
Széchenyi RÁ KÓCZI Ú T
lánchíd
CENTRAL
PEST RÁ K ÓCZI ÚT
AT T ILA ÚT
K RIS Z T I N A K ÖR ÚT
JANE HANING R.
Erzsébet KÁROLYI M. U. MÚZEUM KRT J ÓZ S E F K Ö RÚT
híd
HEGYALJA ÚT
GELLÉRT HILL VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
AND TABÁN
Ironwork Gates of Gresham Palace
Two peacocks, a classic Secession motif,
decorate the wrought-iron gates of the Four
Seasons Gresham Palace hotel. The building
was built by Zsigmond Quittner and the BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
Vágó brothers between 1905–6.
Lechner House on Bartók Béla út
Ödön Lechner was the leading exponent of
the Hungarian National Style. He built this
apartment block for his brother Gyula, with a 0 metres 800
studio for himself on the fourth floor, in 1899. 800
The block is at 40 Bartók Béla út. 0 yards




056-057_EW_Budapest.indd 56 05/09/2014 15:49
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Flashmap template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

bud apest a t a glance  57

Post Office Savings Bank
The main staircase of this
building by Ödön Lechner
is embellished by fine fretted
balusters, rounded lamps and
decorative windows.


Entrance to the Zoo
Kornél Neuschloss made
ingenious use of elements of
Hindu architecture when he
created this amusing gate
guarded by two elephants.




H UN G ÁRI A KRT
KÓS KÁROLY
SÉTÁNY
Margit híd SZENT ISTVÁN KRT

MAR GI T KÖ RÚT NORTH OF A N DRÁ SS Y Ú T D ÓZ S A G Y ÖR G Y ÚT

THE CASTLE
DISTRICT T ER É Z K ÖRÚ T
AROUND AROUND Sipeky Balázs Villa
PARLIAMENT VÁROSLIGET Built between 1905–6, this
fanciful villa is perhaps the
D
CASTLE a R O T T E N B I L LE R U . most representative example
AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT TH ÖK ÖLY ÚT It was designed by Ödön Lechner.
F Ő U .
DISTRICT n ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. of the Secession style in Budapest.
u
b
e
Széchenyi RÁ K ÓCZI Ú T Philanthia Florist’s
lánchíd
CENTRAL This extraordinary
PEST R ÁK Ó C ZI ÚT florist’s is on Váci utca.
AT T ILA ÚT
The interior of the shop
K RIS Z T I N A K ÖR ÚT
is in the Secession style,
JANE HANING R.
while the building itself
is Neo-Classical.
Erzsébet KÁROLYI M. U. J ÓZ S E F K Ö RÚT
híd
MÚZEUM KRT
HEGYALJA ÚT
GELLÉRT HILL VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
AND TABÁN
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT

Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex
Supported by flattened arches, a glass roof
adds to the tranquil appeal of this hall in the
famous spa at the Gellért Hotel. The Secession
interiors created here are among the most
splendid to be found in Budapest.




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58  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Exploring Secession Budapest

The Secession movement crossed artistic boundaries,
influencing painting and the decorative arts as well as
architecture. Colourful, sometimes fantastical designs
are instantly recognizable hallmarks of the style. The
Hungarian National Style drew heavily on this general
trend, incorporating motifs from old Hungarian
architecture, particularly that of Transylvania, folk
art and even oriental features.

German and English art. His
finest pictures, which in clude Vase designed by István Sovának,
Golden Age and the mysterious in the Museum of Applied Arts
Adam and Eve, can be admired
in the Hungarian National brickyard in Pécs in southern
Gallery. Lajos Gulácsy was Hungary, not only to cover roofs
influenced by the Pre-Raphaelite but also as a decorative element.
and expressionist movements The owner of this brickyard,
and his pictures are often Vilmos Zsolnay, discovered an
symbolic. Many of his paintings, innovative method of glaz ing
too, can now be viewed in the tiles and ceramics. This proved
Hungarian National Gallery. so successful that the brickyard
The artists’ colony based at was turned into a factory
Gödöllő was an important specializing in their production.
centre for painters working Zsolnay’s factory eventually
in the new Secession style. made most of the vivid and
Its founder, Aladár Körösfői- distinctive pyrogranite ceramic
Kriesch, created numerous tiles covering the Secession
works, including a fresco buildings in the city.
entitled The Fount of Youth Zsolnay also employed
which decorates the Liszt leading designers to create
Academy of Music. ranges of dinner services, vases
and candlesticks. For these he
was awarded the Gold Medal
Decorative Arts
of the Legion of Honour at
New ideas in the decorative arts the World Fair in Paris. And
at this time were closely related at an exhibition organized in
József Rippl-Rónai’s Woman in White- to architectural developments. 1896, to mark the millennial
Spotted Dress (1889), in the Hungarian Ödön Lechner began to make anniversary of the Hungarian
National Gallery use of colour ful ceramic tiles, Kingdom, the factory introduced
acquired from his father-in-law’s its most beautiful pieces.
Paintings and Drawings
Ödön Lechner (1845–1914)
The main exponents of
Secession art in Hungary were The most influential architect of the Hungarian Secession,
József Rippl-Rónai, János Ödön Lechner trained in Berlin before completing his
Vaszary and Lajos Gulácsy. apprenticeship by working in both Italy and France. His quest
Rippl-Rónai spent many years was to create an iden tifiable Hungarian National Style, by
in Paris, at the time when the combining Secession motifs with
Art Nouveau movement was elements from Hungarian folk art
beginning to flourish. Lady in and Hindu designs. The colour ful
Red, which he painted in 1899, ceramics that he often used became
was the first Hungarian painting his signature. Among the buildings
in the Secession style. Many of that Budapest owes to him are the
Rippl-Rónai’s works are on show Museum of Applied Arts, the Post
in the Hungarian National Office Savings Bank and the Institute
Gallery. There is also a tapestry of Geology. Behind the ingenious and
version of Lady in Red in the fantastical exteriors, Lechner’s
Museum of Applied Arts. buildings have wonderfully simple,
The work of János Vaszary Portrait of Lechner functional and superbly lit interiors.
was heavily influenced by both




058-059_EW_Budapest.indd 58 15/09/16 11:58 am

BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  59


Gresham Palace and the Gellért Building, with its distinctive
Hotel and Baths Complex, geometrical ornamentation,
built in the Art Nouveau on Szervita tér. Also among
style, are among the many his buildings is the extra-
buildings in the city that are ordinary former Jewish Old
embellished by ornamental People’s Home, at Nos. 53–5
wrought-iron gates, gratings Amerikai út. With sophisticated
and banisters that incorporate ornamental details based on
Secession motifs. folk designs, Városliget
Calvinist Church was the
creation of Aladár Árkay.
Interior Decoration
Károly Kós was a highly
Among the interiors of the era, original member of this set.
those of the New York Palace Fascinated by the traditional
are a real jewel. Decked out in architecture of Transylvania,
the best materials, including he trawled the whole of that
bronze and marble, they retain region, making drawings of the
the splendour of their original, village churches and manor
Neo-Baroque form. houses he encountered. Motifs
Also worth visiting are the from these buildings were later
Hungarian National Bank and Window created by Miksa Róth, at the transferred to the aviary at
the Post Office Savings Bank, Hungarian National Bank Budapest’s Zoo and the
with their furnished secure houses of the Wekerle Estate.
rooms and ornate door and Exhibitions of attractive Secession
window frames. The interior of furniture are a fea ture of both
Philanthia Florist’s, is another the Museum of Applied Arts
wonderfully preserved example and also the Nagytétényi Palace.
of decor from the Secession.
Architecture
Frieze on the Rózsavölgyi Building
Hungarian architecture of the
fin de siècle is charac terized Where to Find
not only by decorative forms
using glazed ceramics, but, Secession Budapest
more fundamentally, by the Gellért Hotel and Baths
implementation of modern Complex pp94–5
technical solutions. Reinforced Gresham Palace p118
concrete, steel and glass were Hungarian National Bank, Liberty
used together, and large, Square p114
light-filled interiors were often Hungarian National Gallery
achieved. The central hall of pp78–81
the Museum of Applied Arts Institute of Geology p158
is a fine example of this. Liszt Academy of Music p133
Aside from Ödön Lechner, Museum of Applied Arts pp140–41
the most important of the Nagytétényi Palace p165
Hungarian Secession archi tects, New York Palace p133
others who contributed Philanthia Florist’s p57
significant buildings in the Post Office Savings Bank p115
prevailing style included Béla Turkish Bank p132
Lajta, Aladár Árkay, Károly Kós Városliget Calvinist Church p148
and István Medgyaszay. Béla Wekerle Estate p161
A Secession cabinet, displayed in the Lajta, a pupil of Lechner, Zoo p154
Museum of Applied Arts designed the Rózsavölgyi

Decorative Motifs Sunflower motif adorning the
Stylized folk motifs derived from Post Office Savings Bank
embroidery and also oriental
patterns were often employed
in Budapest’s decorative arts
during this period. Secession
motifs such as feline forms,
based on Viennese and Parisian Secession lettering on the sign of Colourful mosaic at No. 3
examples, also feature. Philanthia Florist’s Aulich utca




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62  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

BUDAPEST THROUGH THE YEAR

Set in the middle of Hungary, Budapest the Spring Festival, an international
enjoys a continental climate with sharply celebration of classical music and ballet,
defined seasons, each of which brings its and the Budapest Autumn Festival,
own attractions, from traditional feast days devoted to contem porary classical arts.
to cultural and sporting events. Historically Many hotels and tourist offices provide
a centre of cultural, and especially musical, a programme of the events taking place
activity, Budapest continues the tradition in the city, as do the festivals’ websites
with many musical events including which are usually available in English.


over the city. The emphasis
Spring of the festival is on the classical
Spring makes a welcome return tradition, but also in evidence
to the city in March, with are folk music and dance,
sunshine and fresh, warm days. as well as pop and jazz.
Budapest turns green and the (www.festivalcity.hu)
Spring Festival sees the arrival of Festival Celebrating the
some of the year’s first tourists. Day of Dance (end Apr).
The National Dance Theatre
March and the Association of
The Spring Uprising (15 Mar). Hungarian Dance Artists
A public holiday marks the day Parade in the Castle District during the organize this festival every
in 1848 when the youth of Pest, Spring Festival year, with participation from
led by the poet Sándor Petőfi, top Hungarian dance groups
rebelled against the Habsburg service is well worth attending and foreign guest artists.
occupation of Hungary in one of the city’s many (www.nemzetitancszinhaz.hu)
(see pp32–3). Thou sands of churches. On the morning of Horse Racing (Sun, Apr–Oct).
people take to the streets to Easter Monday young men April sees the beginning of the
lay wreaths and light eternal spray their female friends and flat-racing season. Place your
flames, wearing the national relatives with perfume or water, bets at the busy and charmingly
colours of red, white and green. a ritual which is said to keep the down-at-heel Kincsem Park
There are speeches and street recipients beautiful until the race course on Albertirsai út.
theatre, especially in front of following year. Painted eggs Budapest International
the Hungarian National are given in return. Book Festival. Organized in
Museum (see pp134–5). Spring Festival (early–mid-Apr). co-operation with the Frankfurt
Top national and international Book Fair, this festival is the
April musicians gather for several most important event in
Easter is an important religious weeks of music and dance in Hungary’s publishing year,
event in Hungary and the Easter churches and concert halls all both for the publishing
industry and for the general
public. There are book stalls
as well as readings and
discussions. It is held at
a modern venue in the
spacious Millenáris Park.
(www.bookfestival.hu)
May
May Day (1 May). No longer
a compulsory display of
patriotism, May Day cele-
brations take place in public
parks all over the city and
involve craft markets, street
performers and sausage
and beer tents. A dip in
the local thermal bath or
swimming pool (see pp52–5)
is another popular May
Springtime magnolia blossom on Margaret Island Day activity.
Folk dancers at the Budapest Wine Festival



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BUD APEST THROUGH THE Y EAR  63


Average Daily Hours of Sunshine
Sunshine Chart
Hours Budapest enjoys some
12 of the sunniest weather
in Europe, with an average
9 of 8 hours of sunshine
each day from April to
6 September. During the
sticky months of high
3 summer (June, July and
August), the Buda hills
provide a welcome refuge
0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec from the heat of the city.
Summer
The long hot days of summer
are made for relaxing on
Margaret Island or sun-bathing
and swimming at the city’s
open-air pools.
June
Budapest Summer Festival
(Jun–Aug). Margaret Island
provides one of the major
venues for this summer-long,
open-air festival. The Margaret Formula One racing in the Hungarian Grand Prix
Island open-air theatre is the
largest in Budapest and hosts July city’s largest church
excel lent Hungarian and interna- Hungarian Formula One (see pp120–21) provide a
tional performances of grand Grand Prix (end Jul). The perfect opportunity to study
operas, ballets and concerts. biggest event in the Hungarian the lav ish interior decoration
(www.eng.szabadter.hu) sporting calendar takes place of this extraordinary building.
Danube Carnival at Mogyoród. The Vajdahunyad Castle
Inter national Multicultural (www.hungaroring.hu) Summer Music Festival (mid-
Festival Various venues host Concerts in St Stephen’s Jul–Aug). This open-air festival
music and dance events. Basilica (Jul–Aug). Organ features excellent classical as
(www.dunakarneval.hu) and choir concerts in the well as jazz, ragtime and gypsy
music. (www.vajdahunyad.hu)
August
St István’s Day (20 Aug).
St István, the patron saint of
Hungary, is celebrated with
mass in St Stephen’s Basilica
followed by a huge procession.
The day ends with fireworks
along the Danube.
Festival of Folk Arts (around
20 Aug). Masters of Hungarian
folk art set up at Buda Castle,
offering workshops and selling
their crafted items.
(http://mestersegekunnepe.hu)
Sziget Festival (Aug). Several
stages and a camp site are set
up on Óbuda Island for this
popular week-long festival
of rock, folk and jazz, which
features top bands such as
The Kooks and Iron Maiden.
Fireworks to celebrate St István’s Day (www.sziget.hu)




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64  INTRODUCING BUD APEST


Average Monthly Rainfall Rainfall Chart
Typically, it rains very
mm Inches heavily for two days or
100 4 so in Budapest, then is
dry for several weeks.
75 3 June is the wettest
month, with May, July,
50 2 August and Novem-
ber only slightly dryer.
25 1 Autumn is usually the
dryest season, while
there is some snowfall
0 0
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec in the winter months.
Budapest Wine Festival
Autumn (2nd week of Sep). Wine makers
Budapest becomes an array set up stalls for wine tastings
of colour in Autumn and the and folk dancing on Buda’s
summer crowds leave the city. Castle Hill (see p73).
Fruit and vegetable markets have (www.aborfesztival.hu)
vast displays of jewel-coloured Nemzeti Vágta (National
produce and several festivals and Gallop) (mid-Sep). This horse
events take place. Highlights of race is held annually on a
the season include the Wine and special course built around
Autumn Festivals. Heroes’ Square for the event.
September October
Jewish Summer Cultural Budapest International
Festival (end Aug–beg Sep). This Marathon and Running A colourful food stall in one of Budapest’s
multicultural festival includes a Festival (Oct). There is a covered markets
Jewish book fair, an Israeli film mara thon, a relay race, a mini-
festival, art exhibitions, and marathon and a family running Autumn Festival (mid-Oct).
cuisine presentations. competition. Concerts and Contemporary film, dance and
(www.zsidonyarifesztival.hu) events are held for spectators. theatre at venues across the city.
Győr-Budapest Ultramaraton
Competition. The 142-km-
(88-mile-) race goes through
several scenic towns and
villages between the cities of
Győr and Budapest. It is open
to everyone, from runners and
cyclists, to wheelchair-riders
and roller-skaters, and can be
completed over several days.
Remembrance Day (23 Oct).
This is a national day of mourning
to remember the 1956 Uprising,
when 2,500 people were killed
by Soviet tanks and 200,000 fled
the country. Wreaths are laid in
Municipal Cemetery (see pp162–
3), on the grave of the executed
leader Imre Nagy (see p36).
November
Budapest Christmas Fair
(26 Nov–24 Dec). The Budapest
Christmas Market transforms
Vörösmarty Square into a festive
marketplace, where Hungarian
artisans display their work and
national dishes are served.
Performers take part in the Open-Air Theatre Festival (www.budapestinfo.hu)




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BUD APEST THROUGH THE Y EAR  65


Average Monthly Temperature Temperature Chart
Seasons in Budapest are
°C °F sharply defined. Day time
25 80 temperatures rise rapidly
from March onwards. By
20 70
June, the thermometer
15 60 often reaches 30°C (90°F)
10 50 and more. September
sees cooler weather,
5 40
with temper atures
0 30 falling rapidly to lows
of well below freezing
-5 20
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec in January.
The climax of the season is
Winter the spectacular Opera Ball and
Despite the cold weather, a masked procession, on the
winter can be an exciting time last Saturday and Sunday
to visit Budapest. Open-air before Lent, respectively.
ice-skating takes place from (www.operabal.com)
November, roast-chestnut
sel lers appear on the streets
and a Christmas tree is erected
in Vörösmarty Square.
December
Budapest Christmas Fair
(26 Nov–24 Dec) continues.
Silver and Gold Sunday
(2nd-to-last Sunday before
Christmas). All the city’s shops
stay open for this Sunday of
serious Christmas shopping.
Mikulás (6 Dec). On Mikulás, or Traditionally decorated Christmas tree in
St Nicholas Day, children leave Vörösmarty Square
their shoes on the win dow sill
for Santa Claus to fill. Szilveszter (31 Dec). Budapest
Christmas (24–26 Dec). celebrates in style on New Year’s
The city shuts down for three Eve, with music in Vörösmarty
days on 24 Dec. Although it is and Nyugati Squares until Winter ice skating in City Park
not an official public holiday, dawn, street parties, and
shops and offices close early. fireworks. Public transport Public Holidays
For the majority of Hungarians, runs all through the night.
the most important and sacred Public holidays mainly
event is the family meal on the January follow the Christian calen dar.
evening of 24 Dec. This is also New Year’s Gala Concert Two days mark cata clysmic
when Christmas presents are (1 Jan). This occasion is an events in Magyar history.
brought by Little Jesus. excellent way to start the
new year. Out standing New Year (1 Jan)
Hungarian and foreign Spring Uprising (15 Mar)
artists perform excerpts from Easter Sunday (Mar/Apr)
European opera and musicals,
providing a lively evening Easter Monday (Mar/Apr)
of music at the Hungarian Whit Monday (May/Jun)
State Opera.
May Day (1 May)
February St István’s Day (20 Aug)
Masked-Ball Season (Feb). Remembrance Day (23 Oct)
Budapest forgets the cold
weather to welcome the All Saints’ Day (1 Nov)
coming of spring, and the Christmas Day (25 Dec)
Seeing in the New Year, a stylish affair arrival of the farsang, or fancy Boxing Day (26 Dec)
in Budapest dress masked-ball season.




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66  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Margaret Bridge to Elizabeth Bridge

A trip on a river boat along the Danube Centenary Monument
provides a unique panorama of the city. This monument was erected
Most major cities have a river at their heart, in 1973 to commemorate
the centenary of the joining
but historically the Danube played an of Buda, Óbuda and Pest
interesting role in this case, for centuries as Budapest. It stands
dividing the separate towns of Buda and on Margaret Island
Pest. Today, several road bridges link the (see pp176–7), close
to Margaret Bridge.
two halves of the mo dern city; they were
M A R G I T H Í D
all reconstructed after being destroyed
by the retreating Nazi army towards
the end of World War II.

St Francis’s Wounds Church
This Baroque church, built for
an order of nuns, has its front
facing away from the Danube.
The hospital and shelter
run by the sisters face
the river (see p105).
D anube
BATTHYÁNY
TÉR

Mátyás Church
With medieval origins, the tower of this
church has been rebuilt several times.
It overlooks the Hilton Hotel and the
Fishermen’s Bastion (see pp86–7).







St Anne’s Church can be
recognized by its twin, L Á N C H Í D
slender Baroque towers.



Chain Bridge was built between
1839–49 at the inititiative of Count
István Széchenyi (see p33). It was
designed by Englishman William
Tierney Clark and built by the
(unrelated) Scot, Adam Clark. The
bridge extends for 380 m (1,250 ft),
supported by two towers – a major
feat of engineering for the time.
E R Z S É B E T H Í D


0 metres 500
0 yards 500




066-067_EW_Budapest.indd 66 21/10/2016 17:10
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

A RIVER VIE W OF BUD APEST  67

Margaret Bridge was built by the French engineer
Ernest Gouin, at the point where the Danube be comes
a single body once more after dividing to flow around
Margaret Island. The bridge is distin guished by its
unusual chevron shape. It was erected in 1872–6, and
between 1899–1900 access from the bridge onto the
island was added. Sculptures by Adolphe Thabart
decorate its columns.



M A R G I T H í D



Parliament
The magnificent, high dome of the
Parliament building is visible from
every point along the Danube in
central Budapest (see pp112–13).


Much of the eastern bank
of the river is characterized
by fairly uniform architecture.
D anube Vari ation is provided here by the
dome and towers of St Stephen’s
Basilica (see pp120–21).







Hungarian
Academy of
Sciences




L á N C H í D Elizabeth Bridge, constructed
in 1897–1903, was at that time
the longest suspension bridge The bridgehead of Chain Bridge is guarded
in the world. Destroyed in
1945, it was rebuilt in its by two vast stone lions sculpted by János
VÖRÖSMARTY current form by Pál Sávolya. Marschalkó. According to an anecdote János
TÉR was heartbroken because he forgot to give
the lions any tongues, so he drowned himself
in the river. In fact the lions do have tongues,
but they are not easy to see.



FERENCIEK
TERE Piers, from which
passenger cruises
E R Z S É B E T H í D summer, are spaced
operate daily in
fre quently along
the Danube in
central Budapest.
For keys to symbols see back flap


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68  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Elizabeth Bridge to Rákóczi Bridge

Like Paris, Budapest has fully exploited the
opportunities given by its river. The most VÖRÖSMARTY
important and beautiful buildings of Buda TÉR
and Pest crowd along the banks of the
Danube. These include the Royal Palace,
churches, historic palaces and the Gellért
Hotel and Baths Complex.



E R Z S É B E T H í D FERENCIEK TERE









Royal Palace D anube
The monumental Habsburg Royal Palace that once occupied this
spot was destroyed during World War II, then reconstructed to
reveal defensive walls and royal chambers that date from the S Z A B A D S á G H í D
Middle Ages (see pp74–5) .

Inner City Parish Church
This church (see pp128–9) SZENT GELLÉRT TÉR
was built in the 12th century
on the ruins of Roman Contra
Aquincum’s walls. The spot was,
from early times, an important
place for crossing the river.


0 metres 500
0 yards 500






Gellért Hotel
and Baths Complex
The architects of this hotel
maximized its river façade
to make it as imposing as
possible (see pp94–5).



Technical University
The university campus (see
p161) occupies almost the
entire space between Liberty
Bridge (Szabadság híd) and
Lágymányosi híd.
For keys to symbols see back flap


068-069_EW_Budapest.indd 68 05/09/2014 15:39

A RIVER VIE W OF BUD APEST  69

The embankment walk near Petőfi
Bridge extends along the length of the
Danube on the Pest side. It is a favourite
place to meet or to go for a stroll, and is
lined by smart hotels and restaurants.








Little Princess (1989), perched by
the tram rails on the Pest side of
FERENCIEK TERE the Danube, was so liked by
Charles, Prince of Wales, on his
visit here that he invited its
designer, László Marton, to
exhibit in London.


D anube
FőVáM TÉR
S Z A B A D S á G H í D Liberty Bridge was built between 1894–9
by Hungarian engineer János Feketeházy.
Opened by Emperor Franz Joseph, it initially
took his name. All its original features were
retained when it was rebuilt after World
War II: on top of the bridge there are legend-
ary Hungarian turul birds and royal crests.








P E T ő F I H í D Corvinus University

Formerly a customs’ headquarters, this build ing
has an elegant façade decorated with ten
allegorical figures. These are the work of
German sculptor August Sommer.











Rákóczi Bridge
Budapest’s most modern and
R á K Ó C Z I H í D
southernmost bridge was built in
1995 for a planned world exhibition
that never happened. It carries traffic on
a ring road bypassing the city centre.
Interior of St Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest


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BUDAPEST


AREA BY AREA





Castle District 72–89

Gellért Hill and Tabán 90–99
North of the Castle District 100–107
Around Parliament 108–123
Central Pest 124–143
Around Városliget 144–155
Further Afield 156–167
Excursions from Budapest 168–171
Three Guided Walks 172–179







































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BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  73
CASTLE DISTRICT


The hill town of Buda grew up around its evolution of Buda, but it suffered neg lect
castle and Mátyás Church from the 13th under Turkish rule during the next century
century onwards. At 60 m (197 ft) above and was then destroyed by Christian
the Danube, the hill’s good strategic troops. The town was reborn, however, and
position and natural resources made it assumed an important role during the 18th
a prize site for its earliest inhabitants. and 19th centuries under the Habsburgs.
In the 13th century, a large settlement By the end of World War II, the Old Town
arose when, after a Tartar invasion, King had been almost completely des troyed
Béla IV decided to build his own defensive and the Royal Palace burnt to the ground.
castle and establish his capital here. The Since the war the Royal Palace and Old
reign of King Mátyás Corvinus in the 15th Town have been reconstructed, restoring
century was an important period in the the original appeal of this part of the city.
Sights at a Glance
Churches p Museum of Military History Palaces, Historic Buildings
q Mátyás Church pp86–7 s Labyrinth and Monuments
u Buda Lutheran Church Historic Streets and Squares 3 Mátyás Fountain
i Church of St Mary Magdalene 5 Parade Square 6 Sándor Palace
Museums and Galleries 9 Holy Trinity Square 7 Court Theatre of Buda
1 Budapest History Museum r András Hess Square w Fishermen’s Bastion
e Hilton Hotel
2 National Széchényi Library
4 Hungarian National t Mihály Táncsics Street Restaurants p196
Gallery pp78–81 y Vienna Gate Square 1 21 – Magyar Vendéglő
8 Golden Eagle Pharmacy o Parliament Street 2 Alabárdos
Museum a Lords’ Street 3 Café Miró
0 Hospital in the Rock Nuclear 4 Café Pierrot
Bunker Museum 5 Fekete Holló Vendéglő
6 Halászbástya
SZABÓ ILONKA U. 7 Pest-Buda Bistro
MÁTRAY U. LOVAS ÚT HUNFALVY U. 8 Rivalda Café & Restaurant
9 Ruszwurm Cukrászda
10 Vár: a Speiz Étterem
11 Zóna Budapest
BABITS M.
SÉTANY
KARD U.
KAPISZTRÁN T ÁNCSICS M. U.
TÉR FORTUNA U. GIMN ÁZ I U M U . SZABÓ ILONKA U.
LOGODI U.
LOVAS ÚT
FORTUNA K. HESS A.
TÉR
ÚRI U.
KORLÁT U.
ORSZÁGH
DÁRDA U. ÁZ U.
SZENTHÁROMSÁG
TÉR HUNYADI JÁNO S Ú T
TÓTH ÁRPÁD SÉTÁNY
LOVAS ÚT
VÁ R TÁRNOK U.
ÚRI U.
LOGODI U.
DÍSZ
TÉR
PALOTA ÚT
TÉR
SZT.GYÖRGY U.
SZT. GYÖRGY Sikló
TÉR CLARK ÁDÁM FRIEDRICH BORN R.
See also Street Finder LÁNCHÍD U.
D a n u b e
maps 1, 3 & 9
0 metres 400 PALOTA ÚT
0 yards 400
Ornate architectural details of the Mátyás Church in Budapest’s Castle District For keys to symbols see back flap
072-073_EW_Budapest.indd 73 15/09/16 11:27 am

74  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: The Royal Palace

The Royal Palace has borne many incarnations during
its long life. Even now it is not known exactly where
King Béla IV began building his castle, though it is S
thought to be nearer the site of Mátyás Church Z Í N
(see pp86–7). The Holy Roman Emperor Sigismund H
of Luxembourg built a Gothic palace on the present Á
Z

site, from which today’s castle began to evolve. In the U
18th century, the Habsburgs built their monumental
palace here. The current form dates from the S
rebuilding of the 19th-century palace after its Z T

destruc tion in February 1945. During this G
work, remains of the 15th-century Gothic Y Ö
palace were uncovered. Hungarian archeologists R G
decided to reveal the recovered defensive walls Y U
and royal chambers in the reconstruction.
An ornamental gateway,
dating from 1903, leads
from the Habsburg Steps to
the Royal Palace. Near by, a
bronze sculpture of the
mythical turul bird guards
the palace. This statue
marks the millen nium
anniversary of the Magyar
conquest in 896.


3 . Mátyás Fountain
In the northwest courtyard of the Royal Palace
stands the Mátyás Fountain. It was designed by
Alajos Stróbl in 1904 and depicts King Mátyás
Corvinus and his beloved Ilonka.





Lion Gate, leading to a
rear courtyard of the Royal
Palace, gets its name from
the four lions that watch
over it. These sculptures
were designed by János
Fadrusz in 1901.

1255 First written c.1400 Sigismund of 1541 After capturing 1719 The building of 1881 Miklós Ybl
document, a letter Luxembourg builds Buda, the Turks use a small palace begins (see p123) begins
by King Béla IV, an ambit ious Gothic the Royal Palace to on the ruins of the programme to re ­
refers to building pal ace on this site stable horses and old palace, to a design build and expand
a fortified castle store gunpowder by Hölbling and the Royal Palace
Fortunato de Prati
1200 1400 1600 1800
Turul
c.1356 Louis I builds 1686 The assault by 1849 Royal bird
a royal castle on the Christian soldiers leaves the Palace is
southern slopes of palace completely razed to destroyed again,
Castle Hill the ground during an un ­
successful attack
1458 A Renaissance palace evolves 1749 Maria Theresa builds a vast by Hungarian
under King Mátyás palace comprising 203 chambers insurgents


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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  75


The dome of the Royal Palace
NORTH OF THE
was rebuilt in the Neo-Classical CASTLE DISTRICT
style after the Neo-Baroque
dome, designed by Alajos DISTRICT
CASTLE
Hauszmann, was ruined in
the razing of the palace in
World War II.
GELLÉRT HILL
AND TABÁN
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 1, 3 & 9




A statue of Prince Eugene of Savoy,
by József Róna, was unveiled in
1900. It commemorates the
battle of Zenta in 1697, victory
at which was a turning point
in the Turkish war. The bas-
reliefs on the base depict
scenes from the battle. Two
Turkish prisoners cower by
the feet of the prince.













4 . Hungarian National Gallery
Artworks depicting Hungary’s turbulent history are
displayed here. Periods of both foreign domination
and patriotic home rule are brought to life through
the gallery’s extensive collection.


Key
Suggested route


Building the Royal Palace
In the 15th century, a Gothic Royal Palace was built
on the site, but it was rebuilt in the Renaissance
style by King Mátyás in 1458. After the Turkish
occupation it was razed and reborn on a smaller
scale. Maria Theresa further developed the palace
and it was completed in 1905. It was rebuilt after
0 metres 50 World War II to its 1905 design.
0 yards 50
15th century 1749
1719 1905





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76  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


graphs and sheet music is
housed in wing F of the Royal
Palace, built in 1890–1902 by
Alajos Hauszmann and Miklós
Ybl (see p123). Previously, the
library was part of the Hungarian
National Museum (see pp134–7).
Among the library’s most
precious treasures are 35 pieces
from the Bibliotheca Corviniana,
a collection of ancient books
and manuscripts that originally
belonged to King Mátyás
Corvinus (see pp26–7). Also of
importance are the earliest
surviving records in the
Hungarian language, dating
from the early 13th century.
The library was established
Renaissance majolica floor from the 15th century, uncovered during excavations on Castle by Count Ferenc Széchényi in
Hill and displayed at the Budapest History Museum 1802. He endowed it with 15,000
books and 2,000 manu scripts.
1 Budapest History On the first floor, the permanent The collection now comprises
Museum exhibition “Budapest – Light nine million items. The library
Budapesti Történeti Múzeum and Shadow: The 1,000­year runs events and exhibitions that
History of a Capital” leads draw on its rich collection.
Szent György tér 2. Map 3 C1 (9 B4). visitors through the millennium
Tel (06 1) 487 88 00. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, that formed the Hungarian
178. v 56. Open Mar–Oct: 10am– capital, from the Roman
6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm settlement of Aquincum
Tue–Sun. & 7 ∑ btm.hu
(see pp166–7) to the political
Since the unification of Budapest change in 1989 (see p36).
in 1873, historic artifacts relating
to Hungary’s capital have 2 National
been collected. Many are
now on show at the Budapest Széchényi Library
History Museum. Országos Széchényi Könyvtár
During the rebuilding that Szent György tér 6. Map 3 C1 (9 B4).
followed the destruction suffered Tel (06 1) 224 37 00. @ 5, 16, 16A,
in World War II, chambers 116, 178. v 56. Open 9am–8pm
dating from the Middle Ages Tue–Sat. ∑ oszk.hu Crest on the Lion Gate in a courtyard
were uncovered in the south at the Royal Palace
wing (wing E) of the Royal A magnificent collection of
Palace. They provide an insight books, manuscripts, maps, 3 Mátyás Fountain
into the character of a much engravings, posters, photo­ Mátyás Kút
earlier castle within today’s Royal Palace. Map 1 C5 (9 B3).
Habsburg reconstruction. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 56.
These chambers, including a
tiny prison cell and a chapel, The ornate fountain in the
were recreated in the basement northwest courtyard of the
of the palace. They now house Royal Palace (situated between
an exhibition, the Royal Palace wings A and C) was designed
in Medieval Buda, which dis­ by Alajos Stróbl in 1904. The
plays authentic weapons, seals, statue is dedicated to the great
tiles and other early artifacts. Renaissance king, Mátyás, about
On the ground and first floors whom there are many popular
of the museum, exhibits trace legends and fables.
the history of Buda Castle from The Romantic design of the
1686 to the present. Also on the bronze sculptures takes its
ground floor are Gothic Statues theme from a 19th­century
from the Royal Palace and a ballad by the poet Mihály
tapestry with the Hungarian­ Vörösmarty. According to the
Angevin coat­of­arms dating Corvinian illuminated manuscript in the tale, King Mátyás, while on a
from the 14th and 15th centuries. National Széchényi Library hunting expedition, meets




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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  77


a beautiful peasant girl, Ilonka,
who falls in love with him. This
representation shows King
Mátyás disguised as a hunter,
standing proudly with his kill.
He is accompanied by his chief
hunter and several hunting
dogs in the central part of the
fountain. Beneath the left-hand
columns sits Galeotto Marzio, an
Italian court poet, and the figure
of the young Ilonka is beneath
the columns on the right.
In keeping with the romantic
reputation of King Mátyás, a
new tradition has grown up
concerning this statue. The
be lief is that anyone wishing to The western elevation of the Neo-Classical Sándor Palace
revisit Budapest should throw
some coins into the fountain The house at No. 3 was built when it was severely damaged
to ensure their safe return. between 1743–8, by József in World War II. The building has
Giessl. This two-floor Baroque been completely restored, and
palace was the home of the it is now the official residence of
4 Hungarian Batthyány family until 1945. the President of Hungary.
National Gallery Although the building has
been frequently remodelled, 7 Court Theatre
See pp78–81. the façade remains intact.
A few houses on Parade of Buda
Square incorporate medieval Várszínház
remains. Such houses can be Színház utca 1–3. Map 1 C5 (9 A3).
seen at Nos. 4–5 and No. 11, @ 16, 16A, 116. Closed for renovation.
built by Venerio Ceresola. The
former has seat niches dating An unlikely assortment of
from the 13th century. institutions have stood on
this site. The church of St John
the Evangelist, founded by
6 Sándor Palace King Béla IV, stood here in the
Sándor Palota 13th century. This church was
then used as a mosque under
Szent György tér 1–3. Map 1 C5 (9 A3).
@ 16, 16A, 116. Closed to the public. Ottoman rule, and in 1686 it
∑ keh.hu was demolished by the
Christian armies that retook
By the top of the cog-wheel the city. In 1725 the Carmelite
railway stands the grand Neo- order built a Baroque church
Classical mansion, Sándor in its place and this building
Palace. It was commissioned in was first converted into a
1806 by Count Vincent Sándor theatre in 1786, during the
from architects Mihály Pollack reign of Emperor Joseph II.
Batthyány Palace on Parade Square retains and Johann Aman. Farkas Kempelen, a famous
its original Baroque façade The bas-reliefs that decorate Hung arian designer added a
the palace are the work of Rococo façade and seats for
5 Parade Square Richárd Török, Miklós Melocco 1,200 spectators. The first plays
Dísz Tér and Tamás Körössényi. The were in German and it was not
decoration on the western ele- until 1790 that any work was
Map 1 B5 (9 A3). @ 16, 16A, 116.
vation depicts Greek gods on staged in Hungarian. Beethoven’s
Parade Square is named after the Mount Olympus. The southern concert of 1800 is com-
military parades that were held elevation shows Count Sándor memorated by a plaque.
here in the 19th century. At the being knighted and the north- The building was damaged in
northern end of the square is the ern elevation features a 1934 World War II and restored in 1978,
Honvéd Monument, built in 1893 sculpture of Saint George by after which it regularly hosted
by György Zala. It honours and Zsigmond Kisfaludi Stróbl. performances by the National
commemorates those who died Sándor Palace functioned Dance Theatre. The theatre is
during the recapture of Buda from as the prime minister’s official currently closed due to
Austria in the 1848 revolution. residence from 1867 to 1944, extensive renovation work.




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78  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

4 Hungarian National Gallery
Magyar Nemzeti Galéria St Anne Altarpiece
(c.1520)
Established in 1957, the Hungarian National Gallery Elaborately decorated,
houses a compre hensive collection of Hungarian art this folding altarpiece
from medieval times to the 20th cen tury. Gathered from Kisszeben is one
of the Gothic high lights
by various groups and institutions since 1839, in the gallery.
these works had previously been exhibited at the
Hungarian National Museum (see pp134–7) and the
Museum of Fine Arts (see pp150–53). The collection
was moved to the Royal Palace in 1975 and today
occupies four wings. There are now six permanent
exhibitions, presenting the most valuable and
critically acclaimed Hungarian art in the world.

Madonna of Toporc (c. 1420)
This is a captivating example of
medieval wood sculpture in the
Gothic style. It was originally
crafted for a church in
Spiz (now part of Slovakia).



First floor












Madonna of Bártfa
(1465–70)
This painting of a Madonna
and Child is from a church
in Bártfa (now in Slovakia).
It is thought to have been
painted in Cracow, Poland.



Wing D Ground floor Wing C
Main entrance
Key
Stone sculptures and artifacts
Gothic works
. The Visitation (1506)
This painting by Master MS Late-Gothic altarpieces
is a delightful example of Renaissance and Baroque works
late Gothic Hungarian art. It 19th-Century works
is a fragment of a folding 20th-Century works
altarpiece from a church
in Selmecbánya in Hungarian works post 1945
modern-day Slovakia. Temporary exhibitions




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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  79

Luischen (1884)
One of the earliest works by the sculptor Alajos VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Stróbl is this marble bust of Luischen on display
on the first floor. Practical Information
A, B, C and D wings in the Royal
Palace. Map 3 C1 (9 B4).
Tel (06 1) 201 90 82, (06 20) 439 73
25 or (06 20) 439 73 31. Open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 8 to
arrange for an English-speaking
guide call (06 1) 201 90 82. =
- ∑ mng.hu
Second
floor Transport
@ 16, 16A, 116.
Woman Bathing (1901)
This painting by Károly Lotz is the best
example of Neo-Classical painting in
Hungary. It reflects his fascination for
the work of the French painter, Ingres.

Gallery Guide
The gallery’s permanent exhibitions
are housed in wings B, C and D. Early
stone and Gothic exhibits are on the
ground floor. Late Gothic, Renaissance
and Baroque works and 19th-century
works share the first floor. Works from
the 20th century are on the second
floor, and Hungarian works post 1945
are on the top floor. Temporary
exhibits are displayed in wing A, as
well as on the ground floor of wing C
Third floor
and the third floors of wings C and D.













Churning Woman (1872–73)
This painting is by Mihály Munkácsy,
Hungary’s most internationally celebrated
artist. The tiredness of the woman’s features
with her worn hands show the reality of a
life of poverty.



. Picnic in May (1873)
The captivating colours of this
landscape scene were painted
by Pál Szinyei Merse. He was
Wing B influenced by two works of
Edouard Manet and Claude Monet,
Wing A both entitled Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe.




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80  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the Hungarian The Visitation, a magnif icent
National Gallery late Gothic work by Master
MS, is, in fact, only the main
section of an altar; the other
The works are displayed in six permanent exhibitions and give pieces are now in the city of
a thorough insight into Hungarian art from the early Middle Esztergom (see p168).
Ages to the present day. Although one-and-a-half centuries
of Turkish occupation and wartime destruction interrupted the Renaissance and
development of Hungarian art, the birth of national pride in Baroque Works
the 19th century allowed a new indigenous style to develop. The exhibition begins with
Among the most interesting exhibits are the Hungarian a still life by Jakab Bogdány
paintings of the late 19th century, when a greater diversity of (1660–1724) and portraits by
styles came to the fore. The collection of 20th-century works Ádám Mányoki (1673–1757)
includes paintings, prints, drawings and sculptures. (see p28), who actually settled
outside Hungary. As a result
of the powerful influence
of the Habsburgs during this
pe riod (see pp30–31), Baroque
art was overwhelmingly
domin ated by Austrian artists.
Painters such as Joseph
Dorfmeister and Franz Anton
Maulbertsch and sculptors
Georg Raphael Donner
and Philipp Jakob Straub
were the acknow ledged
masters of the style. Jan
Kupetzky’s portraits are also
The Habsburg Crypt, with the sarcophagus of Palatine Archduke Joseph exemplary models of this era.
The wooden sculptures
by Donner and the sacred
The Lapidarium Gothic Works paintings of Dorfmeister
On the ground floor, to the left of A superb collection of painted conclude this section of
the main en trance, is a display panels, sculptures and fragments the gallery.
of stone objects dis cov ered of altar decoration is opposite
during the reconstruc tion of the the Lapida rium. Note, however,
Royal Palace (see p74). Situated the image of the Madonna of Late-Gothic Altarpieces
on the ground floor, under the Bártfa, which is a rare complete One of the star exhibits
south ern yard of the main build­ example from the Gothic period. of this collection is the
ing is the Lapidarium, which The sculptures of the “Beautiful imposing late Gothic altarpiece.
includes sculp tures and frag­ Mado nnas” are executed in the Arranged in the Great Throne
ments of architectural features, Soft Style. This style is character­ Room, the majority of these
such as balu strades and ized, as its name suggests, by the vast altarpieces date from
windows, that decorated the sentimental and gentle imagery the 15th and early 16th
royal chambers during the of the Madonna playing with centuries. Architecturally these
Angevin and Jagiełło eras the Christ child. altarpieces are pure Gothic,
(see p20). It also dis plays
Renaissance relics. The most
valuable exhibit, however, is a
sculpture of King Béla III’s head,
which dates from around 1200.
Also in this first section are
two marble bas­reliefs of King
Matthias and his wife Beatrice,
by an unknown Renaissance
master from Lombardy.
The second section exhibits
late Gothic and Renaissance
artifacts from other palaces in
Hungary. There are pillars and
balustrades from the palace at
Visegrád and bas­reliefs from
a chapel in Esztergom. The Great Throne Room, displaying the collection of folding altarpieces




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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  81


while adorned with sculptures
and paintings revealing a
Renaissance influ ence. This is
evident in the altars of St Anne
and St John the Baptist from
a church in Kisszeben (now
Sabinov in Slovakia), which date
from 1510–16. The most recent
altarpiece dates from 1643
and is from the church of Our
Lady Mary in Csíkmenaság.





Christmas (1903) by Jόzsef Rippl-Rόnai, a leading Hungarian artist
of László Paál and Mihály by Pablo Picasso. One of his
Munkácsy, the latter being paintings in particular, the Ruins
widely regarded as the country’s of the Greek Amphitheatre in
greatest artist. Paintings by Taormina (1905), captures
Munkácsy which deserve his abstract interpretation
particular attention are The of the world.
Yawning Apprentice (1869), Dusty The Eight, a group of
Road (1874), the still life Flowers artists who set up the first
Bertalan Székely’s Women of Eger (1867), (1881), and – most notably – Hungarian avant-garde school,
depicting the Turkish wars Woman Carrying Brushwood were active between the two
(1870), which was painted at world wars. Notable examples
the zenith of his career. of their work are Young Girl with
19th-Century Works It is also worth spending a a Bow by Béla Czóbel, Woman
The wonderful collection of few moments seeing the paint- Playing a Doublebass by Róbert
works from this period reflects ings of the Neo-Classical artists. Berény, The Oarsmen by Ödön
the rise of fine art in Hungary The work of Károly Lotz, who is Marffy, Landscape by Lajos
in the 19th century. perhaps better known for his Tihanyi and Riders at the Edge
Historicist art developed frescoes that can be seen on by Károly Kernstok.
during this period. Among walls and ceilings around The best works of Hungarian
those distinguishing them selves Budapest, is exhibited here. Expressionism can be seen in
in particular were Gyula Benczúr the paintings Along the Tracks,
and Bertalan Székely, who 20th-Century Works For Bread and Generations, by
produced the epic works The Gyula Derkovits.
Recapture of Buda in 1686 Examples of work from the Among the sculptures on
(1896) and Women of Eger Secession era through to display, the most interesting are
(1867) respectively. The latter Expressionism and Surrealism, Raising Oneself and The Sower,
depicts the women of the and even contemporary art are by Ferenc Medgyessy, and
town defending the Castle exhibited here. They provide Standing Girl, by Béni Ferenczy.
of Eger against the Turks. a comprehensive review of The exhibition is completed
Viktor Madarász’s work The 20th-century Hungarian art. by a section featuring contemp-
Mourning of László Hunyadi József Rippl-Rónai studied orary artists.
(1859) refers to the execution in France with Gaugin and
of László Hunyadi by the Toulouse-Lautrec. His work
Habsburgs in 1457. It alludes, shows the influence of the
too, to the execution of many Secession style in The Palace in
Hungarians after the crushing Körtyvélyes and Woman with a
of the uprising against Austria Birdcage. But one of the most
in 1849 (see pp32–3). engaging artists from the early-
European developments in 20th century is Károly Ferenczy
fine art can also be seen in whose The Paintress (1903)
Hungarian painting from the exemplifies the serene qualities
late-19th century. The influence of his work.
of Impressionism, for example, is Tivadar Kosztka Csontváry is
best seen in Pál Szinyei Merse’s an artist whose work did not
Picnic in May (1873). Hungarian follow any conventional style The Paintress by Károly Ferenczy (1903),
Realism is express ed in the work but was greatly admired, even a typically peaceful work




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82  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: the Old Town

Buda’s old town has been a barometer of Hungary’s
changing fortunes. It developed, to the north of the Royal
Palace, from the 13th century. Under kings such as
Sigismund, it flourished, and wealthy German merchants set
up shops in Lords’ Street (Úri utca) to supply the court. The
area was later destroyed by the Turks and again by their
evictors, the Holy League army formed of European t Mihály Táncsics Street
Christians. It was rebuilt after World War II, but genuine During the Middle Ages, this street
relics can be hunted out in its cobbled streets and squares. was inhabited by Jews. A museum
at No. 26, on the site of an old
synagogue, displays finds such
as tombstones.





B É CSI
K APU
T É R

T Á
N
C
S
I
The State Archive of Historic C S
Documents, located in a Neo- F O R T U N A U T C A M
Romanesque building, houses
items that were transferred to U
Buda in 1785 from the former Ú R I U T C A T C
capital of Hungary, Bratislava. O R S Z Á G H Á Z U T C A A







Defensive walls











i Church of St Mary Magdalene
The reconstructed Baroque tower is all that a . Lords’ Street
remains of the 13th-century Church of St Once the homes of
Mary Magdalene, where Emperor Francis I aristocrats and mer-
was crowned King of Hungary in 1792. chants, the houses on
Úri utca have medi eval
Key foundations. Many have
Gothic details and
Suggested route peaceful courtyards.




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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  83


q . Mátyás Church
Although with much earlier NORTH OF THE
parts, this church is mainly CASTLE DISTRICT
a Neo-Gothic reconstruction
dating from 1874–96. CASTLE
A pictur esque vestibule on DISTRICT
the church’s southern façade
covers an original Gothic
portal dating from the GELLÉRT HILL
AND TABÁN
14th century.
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 1 & 9




This statue of St
Stephen, or István, the
first crowned king of w Fishermen’s Bastion
Hungary (see pp24–5), was Designed by Frigyes Schulek
erected in 1906. Its in 1895, this fantastical
pedestal includes a bas- structure never had
relief showing scenes the role of a defensive
from the king’s life. building, despite its
name. It serves instead
T Á
N
as a viewing terrace.
C
The conical towers
S
I
are an allusion to the
C
S
tribal tents of the
early Magyars.
M
U T C
F O R T U N A U T C A
A
9 Holy Trinity Square
In 1713, after overcoming
an epidemic of the plague,
a column represent ing the
Holy Trinity was raised in
this square.
0 metres 50
0 yards 50







T Á R N O K U T C A
8 Golden Eagle
Pharmacy Museum
From the 18th century
a pharmacy called
“Under the Golden Eagle”
traded in this medieval
house, now a museum.



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84  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

8 Golden Eagle two courtyards, was also built on q Mátyás Church
Pharmacy Museum the square at the beginning of See pp86–7.
Aranysas Patikamúzeum the 18th century. It was designed
by the imperial court architect,
Tárnok utca 18. Map 1 B5 (9 A2). Venerio Ceresola, whose
Tel (06 1) 375 97 72. @ 16, 16A, 116. architectural scheme incorporated
Open Mar–Oct: 10am–5:30pm the remains of medieval houses.
Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–3:30pm
Tue–Fri, 10am–5:30pm Sat, Sun. In 1770–74 an east wing was built,
∑ semmelweismuseum.hu and bay windows and a stone
balustrade with Rococo urns, by
This pharmacy was opened in Mátyás Nepauer, were added. The
1688 by Ferenc Ignác Bösinger corner niche, opposite Mátyás
and traded under the name the Church, houses a small statue by
“Golden Eagle” from 1740. It Carlo Adami of Pallas Athene.
moved to this originally Gothic
building, with its Bar oque interior
and Neo­Classical façade, in the 0 Hospital in the
18th century. The museum Rock Nuclear
opened here in 1974. It displays Bunker Museum
pharma ceuti cal items from the
Renaissance and Baroque eras. Sziklakórház Atombunker Múzeum A statue of St István stands in front of the
Lovas út 4/c. Map 1 A4. Tel (06 70) 701 Fishermen’s Bastion
9 Holy Trinity 01 01. @ 16, 16A, 116. Open 10am– w Fishermen’s
8pm daily (last entry 7pm). Closed
Square 1 Nov, 24, 25 & 31 Dec. & 8 Bastion
Szentháromság Tér ∑ sziklakorhaz.eu Halászbástya
Map 1 B4 (9 A3). @ 16, 16A, 116.
The huge system of natural caves Szentháromsag tér. Map 1 B4 (9 A2).
This square is the central point of and cellars under Buda Castle @ 16, 16A, 116. Open mid­Mar–Apr:
the Old Town. It takes its name served as a shelter for thousands 9am–7pm daily; May–mid­Oct: 9am–
from the Baroque Holy Trinity of people during World War II. 8pm daily. &
Column, originally sculpted by An emergency surgery also
Philipp Ungleich in 1710–13, and operated here from 1944–5, Frigyes Schulek designed this
re stored in 1967. The column saving thousands of lives. After Neo­Romanesque monument
commemo rates the dead of two the war, the Communist govern­ to the Guild of Fishermen in 1895.
out breaks of the plague, which ment classified the institution as It occupies the site of Buda’s old
struck the inhabitants of Buda top secret, and extended the defensive walls and a medieval
in 1691 and 1709. hospital with a new ward and square where fish was once
The pedestal of the column additional equipment. It sold. The bastion is a purely
is decorated with bas­reliefs by became a secret nuclear aesthetic addition to Castle Hill
Anton Hörger. Further up are bunker by 1962. and boasts beautiful views of
statues of holy figures and at Visitors can now the Danube and Pest. In front
the summit is a magnificent tour the eerie of it stands a statue of St István,
composition of the figures of operating rooms the king who introduced
the Holy Trinity. The central and wards peopled Christianity
section of the column is by wax figures. to Hungary.
decorated with angelic figures
surrounded by clouds.
Buda’s Old Town Hall,
a large Baroque
building with












Buda’s Old Town Hall, its clocktower crowned with an onion-shaped dome, on Holy Trinity Square




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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  85

r András Hess the leading architect of the day.
Square It features outstand ing Baroque
Hess András Tér façades. Like many houses on
this street, it was erected on the
Map 1 B4 (9 A2). @ 16, 16A, 116.
ruins of medieval houses.
This square is named after the In 1800, Ludwig van
Italian-trained printer who Beethoven, who was then
printed the first Hungarian giving concerts in Budapest,
book, Chronica Hungarorum, in resided here for a short period.
a printing works at No. 4 in 1473. The palace now houses the
The house was rebuilt at the Museum of Musical History
end of the 17th century as an and the Béla Bartók archives. A
amalgamation of three med ieval permanent exhibition illustrates
houses, with quadruple seat musical life in Budapest from
niches, barrel-vaulted cellars the 18th to 20th centuries, and
and ornamental gates. includes the oldest surviving
The former inn at No. 3 Hungarian musical instruments.
was named the Red The Royal Mint
Hedgehog in 1696. stood on the site
This one-floor of No. 9 during the
building has sur- Middle Ages, and,
viving Gothic and in 1810, the Joseph
Baroque elements. Barracks were
The square also Hedgehog on the façade of No. 3 built here. These
Bas-relief depicting King Mátyás on the features a statue by András Hess Square were later used by
façade of the Hilton Hotel József Damkó of the Habsburgs to
Pope Innocent XI, who was im prison leaders of the 1848–9
e Hilton Hotel involved in organizing the uprising, including Mihály
Hilton Szálló armies who recaptured Buda Táncsics himself.
from the Turks. It was built to An original mural has surviv ed
Hess András tér 1–2. Map 1 B4 (9 A2). mark the 250th anniver sary of on the façade of the house at
Tel (06 1) 889 66 00. @ 16, 16A, 116.
7 ∑ hilton.com the liberation, in 1936. No. 16, which dates from around
1700. It depicts Christ and the
Built in 1976, the Hilton Hotel t Mihály Táncsics Virgin Mary surround ed by
is a rare example of modern Street saints. The bas-reliefs on the
architecture in the Old Town. gateway are, however, from a
Controversial from the outset, Táncsics Mihály Utca Venetian church.
the design by the Hungarian Map 1 B4 (9 A2). @ 16, 16A, 116. Relics of Buda’s Jewish heritage
architect Béla Pintér combines Museum of Musical History: Tel (06 1) can be found at Nos. 23 and 26.
the historic remains of the site 214 67 70. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. The remains of a 15th-century
with contemporary materials ∑ zti.hu/museum synagogue stand in the garden
and methods. of the mansion at No. 23. During
From 1254 a Dominican Standing at No. 7 is Erdődy archeological excavations, tombs
church, to which a tower was Palace, built in 1750–69 for the and reli gious items were also
later added, stood on this site, Erdődy family by Mátyás Nepauer, found in the courtyard of No. 26.
followed by a late-Baroque Jesuit
monastery. The remains of both
these buildings are in corporated
into the design. For example, the
remains of the medieval church,
uncovered during excavations in
1902, form part of the Dominican
Courtyard, where concerts and
operettas are staged during the
summer season.
The main façade comprises
part of the façade of the Jesuit
monastery. To the left of the
entrance is St Nicholas’s Tower.
In 1930, a replica of the
15th-century German bas-relief
of King Mátyás, considered to
be his most authentic likeness,
was added to this tower. The Museum of Musical History on Mihály Táncsics Street




084-085_EW_Budapest.indd 85 15/09/16 10:32 am

86  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

q Mátyás Church
Mátyás-templom

The Parish Church of Our Lady Mary was
built on this site between the 13th and 15th
centuries. Some of the existing architectural
style dates from the reign of Sigismund of
Luxembourg, but its name refers to King
Mátyás Corvinus, who greatly enlarged and
embellished the church. Much of the original
detail was lost when the Turks converted the Rose Window
church into the Great Mosque in 1541. After Frigyes Schulek faithfully repro duced
the liberation of Buda in 1686, Jesuit fathers the medieval stained-glass window
modified the building in the Baroque style. The that was in this position during the
early Gothic era.
church sustained more damage in 1723, and
was restored in the Neo-Gothic style by Frigyes
Schulek in 1873–96. The gallery rooms house
the Museum of Ecclesiastical Art.

Béla Tower
This tower is named after the
church’s founder, King Béla IV.
It has retained several of its
original Gothic features.











. Baroque Madonna
According to legend, the original statue
was set into a wall of the church during
the Turkish occupa tion. When this wall
was destroyed in 1686, the Madonna
made a miraculous appearance. The Turks
took this as an omen of defeat.





Main Portal
Above the arched
west entrance is a
19th-century bas-relief KEY
of the Madonna and
Child, seated between 1 The roof is decorated with
two angels. The relief multicoloured glazed tiles.
is made of pyrogranite 2 The main altar was created
ceramics produced in by Frigyes Schulek and based on
Pécs at the Zsolnay Gothic triptychs.
factory (see p58).




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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  87


. Tomb of King Béla III and Anne VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
de Châtillon
The remains of this royal couple were Practical Information
transferred from Székesfehérvár Szentháromság tér 2. Map 1 B4.
Cathedral to Mátyás Church in 1860. Tel (06 1) 355 56 57. Open 9am–
They lie beneath an ornamental stone 5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun (times
canopy in the Trinity Chapel.
vary). 7 8 & Museum:
Open same hours as the church.
Transport
@ 16, 16A, 116.
Pulpit
The richly decorated
pulpit includes the carved
stone figures of the four
Fathers of the Church and
the four Evangelists.















Stained-Glass Windows
Three arched windows on
the south elevation have
19th-century stained glass.
They were design ed by
Frigyes Schulek, Bertalan
Székely and Károly Lotz.


. Mary Portal
This depiction of the Assumption of
the Blessed Virgin Mary is the most
magnificent example of Gothic stone
carving in Hungary. Frigyes Schulek
reconstructed the portal
from fragments.


1370 Church 1476 Wedding of King 1686 After liberation Holy figures on
construction Mátyás to Beatrice of Aragon of Buda, Jesuits the pulpit
works started (aka Beatrice of Naples) converted the church
under the reign 1541 Turks in Baroque style 2004–2014 Full
of Anjou Louis convert church reconstruction
the Great into a mosque of the building
1250 1350 1450 1550 1650 1750 1850 1950 2050
1309 Coronation 1526 Cathedral 1896 Frigyes Schulek completes
of the Angevin burnt in the first the recon struction of the church
king Charles Robert attack by Turks in the Neo-Gothic style
1255 Church originally 1470 Mátyás Tower 1970 Final details are
founded by King Béla IV is completed after 1945 Church is severely damaged by completed in post-war
after the Mongol invasion its collapse in 1384 German and Russian armies rebuilding programme




086-087_EW_Budapest.indd 87 15/09/16 10:32 am

88  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


took possession and added
a Baroque church and tower.
After World War II, all but
the tower and the gate
were pulled down. These
now stand in a garden, together
with the reconstructed
Gothic window.

o Parliament Street
Országház Utca
Map 1 A4 & 1 B4.
Vienna Gate, rebuilt in 1936, commemorating the liberation of Buda
This street was once inhabited
y Vienna Gate u Buda Lutheran by the Florentine artisans and
Square Church craftsmen who were working
on King Mátyás’ Royal Palace
Bécsi Kapu Tér Budavári Evangélikus Templom (see pp74–5), and it was
known for a time as Italian
Map 1 B4. @ 16, 16A, 116. Bécsi kapu tér. Map 1 B4. Tel (06 1) 356
97 36. @ 16, 16A, 116. 7 Street. Its present name
The square takes its name from comes from the building at
the gate that once led from the Facing the Vienna Gate is the No. 28, where the Hungarian
walled town of Buda towards Neo-Classical Lutheran church, parliament met from 1790–
Vienna. After being damaged built in 1896 by Mór Kallina. 1807. This building was
several times, the old gate was A plaque commem orates pastor designed in the 18th century
demolished in 1896. The current Gábor Sztehlo, who saved 2,000 by the architect Franz Anton
gate, based on a historic design, children during World War II. Hillebrandt as a convent for
was erected in 1936 on the At one time, a painting by the Poor Clares. However,
250th anniversary of the Bertalan Székely, called Christ Emperor Joseph II dissolved
liberation of Buda from the Turks. Blessing the Bread, adorned the the order before the building
The square has a number altar, but it was unfortunately was completed.
of interesting houses. Those destroyed during the war. Numerous houses on
at Nos. 5, 6, 7 and 8 were built Parliament Street have retained
on the ruins of medieval dwel- i Church of St attractive Gothic and Baroque
lings. They are Baroque and features. No. 2, now with a
Rococo in design and feature Mary Magdalene Neo-Classical façade, is the
sculptures and bas-reliefs. The Mária Magdolna Templom Tornya site of the Alabárdos (see p196),
façade of No. 7 has medallions but its history dates back to
with the portraits of Classical Kapisztrán tér 6. Map 1 A4. the late 13th century. In the
@ 16, 16A, 116.
philosophers and poets; 15th cen tury, Sigismund of
Thomas Mann, the German Now in ruins, this church Luxembourg built a Gothic
novelist, lodged here between was built in the mid- mansion here and some
1935–6. No. 8, meanwhile, is 13th century. During details, such as the colonnade
differentiated by its bay win- the Middle Ages, Hungarian around the courtyard and
dows, attics and the restored Christians worshipped the murals on the second
medieval murals on its façade. here because Mátyás floor, have survived
On the left-hand side of Church was only for use until the present day.
the square is a vast Neo- by the town’s German The entrance to No. 9
Romanesque building with a population. The church features the Gothic
beautiful multicoloured roof, did not become a traceried seat niches
built in 1913–20 by Samu mosque until the that were popular in
Pecz. This building houses the second half of the Buda at this time.
National Archive, which holds Turkish occupation, In front of the Neo-
documents dating from before but it was severely Classical house at
the battle of Mohács in 1526 damaged in No. 21 is a statue of
and others connected with the 1686, during Márton Lendvay
Rákóczi uprising and the 1848 the liberation (1807–58), who
rebellion (see pp27, 30 and 32–3). of Buda from was a famous
Behind the Vienna Gate the Turks. Hungarian
Square is a monument built in An order actor and
honour of Mihály Táncsics, the of Franciscan member of
leader of the Autumn Uprising. monks The reconstructed Baroque tower of the the National
It was unveiled in 1970. subsequently Church of St Mary Magdalene Theatre.




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C ASTLE DISTRIC T  89

p Museum of led by Ignác Martinovics, were
Military History imprisoned here; a plaque
Hadtörténeti Múzeum records this event. A well feat-
uring a copy of a sculpture of
Tóth Árpád sétány 40. Map 1 A4. Artemis, the Greek goddess of
Tel (06 1) 325 16 00. @ 16, 16A, 116. hunting, by Praxiteles, was set
Open Apr–Sep: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun; in front of the house in 1873.
Oct–Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. 8
There are two museums on
The museum is located in a Lords’ Street. The Telephony
wing of the former Palatine Museum, at No. 49, is a former
barracks. It houses a wide telephone exchange and
range of military items relating one of the most fun and
to the skirmishes and wars that interactive museums in the
have afflicted Budapest from city. At No. 9 is the entrance
before the Turkish occu pation to the Laby rinth, one of the
to the 20th century. Uniforms, seven under ground wonders One of many caves in the ancient,
flags, weapons, maps and of the world. subterranean Labyrinth
ammunition from as far back
as the 11th century give an Hungarian King Matthias
insight into the long, turbulent s Labyrinth captured Vlad Tepes, also known
history of Budapest. Labirintus as Dracula, in Transylvania in
Of particular interest is the Úri utca 9. Map 1 B5. Tel (06 1) 212 02 1462 and had him taken to
exhibit concerning the 1956 07. @ 16, 16A, 116. Open 10am–7pm Buda, where he was sentenced
Uprising. Photographs illustrate daily. ∑ labirintus.eu to ten years in the Labyrinth’s
the 13 days of demonstrations prison. In its current incarnation
that ended in a Soviet invasion. The haunt of prehistoric man (replacing the attraction that
and a huge civilian death toll. some half a million years ago, closed in 2011), the Labyrinth
the Labyrinth comprises a focuses on Dracula’s internment
1,200-metre (1,000-yard) section with mannequins of his victims
a Lords’ Street of the impressive complex of appearing alongside the torture
Úri Utca caves, cellars, dungeons and chamber, red marmor tomb-
springs that run beneath Castle stone and medieval handcuffs.
Map 1 A4, 1 B4 and 1 B5 (9 A2). Hill at about 10–15 metres From 6pm, oil lamps are lit.
Tel (06 1) 201 88 57. @ 16, 16A, 116.
Telephony Museum: Open 10am– (33–50 ft) below ground level. Visitors can then tour the caves
4pm Tue–Sun. ∑ postamuzeum.hu The complex has been used by the eerie light of lanterns.
variously as wine vaults, torture In the “Maze of Darkness”
The buildings in Lords’ chambers, a prison, a hideaway section, there is complete
Street were destroyed first and also served as a shelter darkness and only a thread
in 1686 and again in 1944. during World War II. The to hold on to.
Reconstruction in 1950–60
restored much of their original
medieval character. Almost
all have some remnant of a
Gothic gateway or hall, while
the façade is Baroque or
Neo-Classical.
An excellent example of a
Gothic façade can be seen
on Hölbling House at No. 31.
Enough of its original features
survived the various wars and
renovations to enable architects
to reconstruct the façade in
considerable detail. The first-
floor window is a particularly
splendid Gothic feature. The
houses opposite are also exam-
ples of this restoration work.
The building at No. 53 was
rebuilt between 1701–22 as a
Franciscan monastery, but in
1789 it was restyled for use
by Emperor Joseph II. In
1795, Hungarian Jacobites, Lords’ Street, which runs the full length of the Old Town




088-089_EW_Budapest.indd 89 15/09/16 10:32 am

A L K O TÁ S U . LOGODI U.


AT T I L A Ú T
VÉRMEZŐ LOGODI U.
Déli pu.
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
MIKÓ U.
KRISZTINAVÁROS
ALAGÚT U.
KRISZTINA
TÉR
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
PÁLYA U. XII TIGRIS U. SARLÓ U.
GYZŐ U.
RÓKA U. FENYŐ U. ORVOS U. DÓZSA LÁNCHÍD U.
AVAR ÚT
ATTILA ÚT
NAPHEGY FÉM U. TÉR
TÉR
NAPHEGY NAPHEGY U. KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
TIBOR U. TIGRIS U. DEZSŐ U. LISZNYAI U. TABÁN DÖBRENTEI U.
DERÉK U. KERESZT U.
GROZA PÉTER R.
ZSOLT U.
Erzsébet
HEGYALJA ÚT
CZAKÓ U.
ALADÁR U. híd
HEGYALJA ÚT SÁNC OROM U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
AVAR U.
ALSÓHEGY U. BERÉNYI U. MIHÁLY U ÚT BÉRC U . SZIRTES U RAOUL WALLENBERG RAKPART
.
D a n u b e
GYULA U. SZÁM A DÓ U. KOCSÁNY U .
XI KELENHEGYI ÚT GELLÉRT Szabadság
HEGY hid
SOMLÓI ÚT
GOMBROCZ Z. U.
IGLÓ I U.
BAKATOR U. KELENHEGYI ÚT R EZ E D A U. PIPACS U. KEMENES U. Szent
MÉNESI U.
Gellért tér
GELLÉRT MI N ERVA U . KELE NHEGYI ÚT ORLAY U.
BALOGH T. U. SOMLÓI Ú T KELENHEGYI MÁNYO KI ÚT BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
MÉNESI U. LÉPCS Ő
XI HIMFY U.
B ALOGH T LEJTŐ
FADRUSZ U. VILLÁNYI ÚT Móricz
Zsigmond körtér
300m
090-091_EW_Budapest.indd 90 15/09/16 10:30 am

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  91

GELLÉRT HILL AND TABÁN

Rising steeply beside the Danube, Gellért threw a sealed barrel containing Bishop
Hill is one of the city’s most attractive areas. Gellért, who was trying to convert them
From the top, at a height of 140 m (460 ft), to Christianity, from the hill to his death.
a beautiful view of the whole of Budapest After wards, the hill was named after this
unfolds. The Celtic Eravi, who preceded the martyr. Gellért Hill bulges out slightly into
Romans, formed their settlement on the hill’s the Danube, which narrows at this point.
northern slope (see p98). Once called simply This made the base of the hill a favoured
Old Hill, many superstitions and tales are crossing place, and the settlement of Tabán
connected with it. In 1046, heathen cit izens evolved as a result.
Sights at a Glance
Museums Districts, Squares and
w Semmelweis Museum of Monuments
Medical History 3 Liberation Monument
Churches 5 Statue of St Gellért
2 Cave Church 7 Queen Elizabeth Monument
8 Tabán
0 Tabán Parish Church
A L K O TÁ S U . AT T I L A Ú T Historic Buildings q Miklós Ybl Square
LOGODI U.
Restaurants pp196–7
4 Citadel
e Golden Stag House
9 Várkert Bazár 1 Aranyszarvas Vendéglő
2 Búsuló Juhász Étterem
VÉRMEZŐ LOGODI U.
Hotels and Baths 3 Café Déryné
Déli pu. 1 Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex 4 Gellért Espressó
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
MIKÓ U. pp94–5 5 Hadik Kávéház Café
KRISZTINAVÁROS 6 Rudas Baths 6 Hemingway
7 János Étterem
ALAGÚT U. 8 Locavore Restaurant & Café
KRISZTINA
TÉR 9 Marcello
KOSCIUSZKO T. U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
PÁLYA U. XII TIGRIS U. SARLÓ U. 10 Márványmenyasszony Étterem
GYZŐ U.
11 Szeged Vendéglő
RÓKA U. FENYŐ U. ORVOS U. DÓZSA LÁNCHÍD U. 12 Tabani Gösser Restaurant
ATTILA ÚT
AVAR ÚT
NAPHEGY FÉM U. TÉR
TÉR
NAPHEGY NAPHEGY U. KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
TIBOR U. TIGRIS U. DEZSŐ U. LISZNYAI U. TABÁN DÖBRENTEI U.
DERÉK U. KERESZT U.
GROZA PÉTER R.
ZSOLT U.
Erzsébet
HEGYALJA ÚT
ALADÁR U. híd
CZAKÓ U.
HEGYALJA ÚT SÁNC OROM U.
MÉSZÁROS U.
AVAR U.
ALSÓHEGY U. BERÉNYI U. MIHÁLY U ÚT BÉRC U . SZIRTES U RAOUL WALLENBERG RAKPART
.
D a n u b e
GYULA U. SZÁM A DÓ U. KOCSÁNY U .
XI KELENHEGYI ÚT GELLÉRT Szabadság
HEGY hid
SOMLÓI ÚT
GOMBROCZ Z. U.
IGLÓ I U.
BAKATOR U. KELENHEGYI ÚT R EZ E D A U. PIPACS U. KEMENES U. Szent
MÉNESI U.
Gellért tér
GELLÉRT MI N ERVA U . KELE NHEGYI ÚT ORLAY U.
BALOGH T. U. SOMLÓI Ú T KELENHEGYI MÁNYO KI ÚT BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
MÉNESI U. LÉPCS Ő
XI HIMFY U.
B ALOGH T LEJTŐ
FADRUSZ U. VILLÁNYI ÚT Móricz 0 metres 300
Zsigmond körtér
See also Street Finder 0 yards 300
maps 1, 3, 4, 9 & 10 300m
Fountain with an intricate mosaic background, Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex For keys to symbols see back flap
090-091_EW_Budapest.indd 91 15/09/16 10:30 am

92  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Gellért Hill

The hill to the south of Castle Hill was long regarded as a
notorious spot. In the 11th century, Prince Vata, brother of
King István, incited a heathen rebellion here that resulted
in the death of Bishop Gellért. During the Middle Ages,
witches were reputed to celebrate their sabbath
here. Under the Turks, a small strong hold was first
built on the hill to protect Buda. In 1851, the Austrians
placed their own bleak and intimidating Citadel at
the summit. Not until the end of the 19th century
did the popular image of Gellért Hill begin to
change, when it became a venue for picnicking
parties. In 1967, the area around the Citadel 7 Queen Elizabeth Monument
was made into an attractive park. Close to the entrance to Elizabeth Bridge
stands this statue of Emperor Franz Joseph’s
wife, who was popular with the Hungarians.
5 . Statue of
St Gellért
Blessing the city with
his uplifted cross,
the mar tyred Bishop
Gellért is regarded
as the patron saint
of Budapest. H E G Y A L J A Ú T


















4 Citadel
Once a place to inspire terror, visitors now
come to the Citadel to explore the old
defensive walls and enjoy the fantastic
view of the city.




Key
Suggested route


3 Liberation Monument 0 metres 500
At the foot of the Liberation
Monument, towering above 0 yards 500
the city, are two sculp­
tures, one representing
the battle with evil.




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gellér t HI ll AND t A bá N  93


6 Rudas Baths castle
These famous Turkish baths, which date from district
the 16th century, have a characteristic
Ottoman cupola. central
pest
GellÉrt hill
and tabÁn

Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 3, 4 & 9




The Reservoir
The observation terraces on Gellért Hill provide those In 1978, a reservoir for drinking
who climb up to them with a beautiful panorama over the water was estab lished close
southern part of Buda and the whole of Pest. to the Uránia Observatory
on Gellért Hill. The surface of
the reservoir is covered over
and provides a point from
which to observe the Royal
Palace (see pp74–5) to the
north. A sculp ture by Márta
Lessenyei, representing the
union of Buda and Pest,
decorates the structure.





2 . Cave Church
This church was established in 1926 in a
holy grotto. Under the Communists,
the Pauline order of monks was forced
to abandon the church, but it was
reopened in 1989.
Márta Lessenyei’s sculpture on
Gellért Hill’s reservoir






S Z E N T G E L L É R T R A K P A R T







1 Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex
One of a number of bath complexes built
at the beginning of the 20th century, this
magnificent spa hotel was erected here to
exploit the natural hot springs.







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94  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

1 Gellért Hotel and Baths Complex
Gellért Szálló és Fürdő

Between 1912–18, this hotel and spa was built in the
modernist Secession style (see pp56–9) at the foot of
Gellért Hill. The earliest re ference to the existence of
healing waters at this spot dates from the 13th century,
during the reign of King András II, and in the Middle
Ages a hospital stood on the site. Baths built here by
the Ottomans were referred to by the renowned Turkish
travel writer of the day, Evliya Çelebi. The architects of the
hotel were Ármin Hegedűs, Artúr Sebestyén and Izidor Outdoor Wave Pool
Sterk. It was destroyed in 1945, but then rebuilt and An early swimming pool with a wave
modernized. The hotel has several restaurants and cafés. mechanism, built in 1927, is situated
The baths include an institute of water therapy, set at the back of the complex, looking
within Secession interiors, but with modern facilities. towards Gellért Hill behind.

. Baths
Two separate baths, one for
men and one for women, are
identically arranged. In each
there are three plunge pools,
with water at different
temperatures, a sauna
and a steam bath.


























Balconies
The balconies fronting the hotel’s rooms have
fanciful Secession balustrades that are decorated
with lyre and bird motifs.


. Entrance Hall
The interiors of the hotel, like the baths, have kept their
original Secession decor, with elaborate mosaics,
stained-glass windows and statues.




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G E LLÉR T HILL AND T ABÁN  95

Sun Terraces
Situated in the sunniest VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
spot, these terraces are a
popu lar place for drying Practical Information
off in the summer. Szent Gellért tér. Map 4 E3.
Tel (06 1) 466 61 66. 7 -
0 = Baths: Kelenhegyi út 4.
Open 6am–8pm daily. & ^
7 ∑ spabudapest.hu
Transport
@ 7. v 19, 47, 49, 56, 56A.
q Szent Gellért tér.
Hot pool with
medicinal spa water
Eastern-Style Towers
The architects who designed the
hotel gave its towers and turrets
a characteristically oriental,
cylindrical form.







Main Staircase
The landings of the main
staircase have stained-glass
windows by Bózó Stanisits,
added in 1933. They illustrate an
ancient Hungarian legend about
a magic stag, recorded in the
poetry of János Arany.













Restaurant Terrace
From this first-floor terrace, diners can
appreciate a fine view of Budapest.
On the ground and first floors of the
hotel there are a total of four cafés
and restaurants.





. Main Façade
Behind the hotel’s imposing façade are attractive recreational
facilities and a health spa that is also open to non-guests.
The entrance to the baths is around to the right from the
main entrance, on Kelenhegyi út.




094-095_EW_Budapest.indd 95 15/09/16 10:32 am

96  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


2 Cave Church first Hungarian king and
Sziklatemplom founder of Christianity in the
country. Inside the Chapel of
Gellért rakpart 1a. Map 4 E3. Tel (06 20) St István, it is worth pausing
775 24 72. Open 9:30am–7:30pm to look at the exquisite wood
Mon–Sat. @ 7. v 19, 47, 49, 56, 56A.
q Szent Gellért tér. carvings by Béla Ferencz. The
Cave Church can be reached
On the southern slope of through the Pauline Welcome
Gellért Hill, the entrance to this Center in the outer cave. The
grotto church is a short walk entrance fee includes an audio
from the Gellért Hotel and guide and a short film. The
Baths Complex. Based on the monastery is closed to tourists.
shrine at Lourdes, the church,
designed by Kálmán Lux, was 3 Liberation
established in 1926. The Liberation Monument, standing at the
The church was intended Monument top of Gellért Hill
for the Pauline order of monks, Felszabadulási Emlékmű
which was founded in the Map 4 D3. @ 27. base of the monument there
13th century by Eusebius of are two allegorical composi­
Esztergom. In 1934, 150 years Positioned high on Gellért tions, representing progress
after Joseph II had dissolved Hill, this imposing monument and the battle with evil.
the order in Hungary,15 friars towers over the rest of the The arrival of the Russians in
arrived back in the city from city. It was designed by the Budapest was a liberation but
exile in Poland. However, their outstanding Hungarian also the beginning of Soviet
residence lasted only until sculptor Zsigmond Kisfaludi rule. After Communism’s fall, a
the late 1950s, when the Stróbl and set up here to figure of a Russian soldier was
Communist authorities sus­ commemorate the liberation removed from the monument
pended the activities of the of Budapest by the Russian to Statue Park (see p164).
church, accusing the monks army in 1945 (see p36). The
of treasonable acts, and sealed monument was originally
the entrance to the grotto. intended to honour the 4 Citadel
The church and adjoining memory of István, son of the Citadella
monastery were reopened in Hungarian Regent Miklós
1989, when a papal blessing was Horthy, who disappeared in Map 4 D3. @ 27. Citadel: Open daily.
&
conferred on its beautiful new 1943 on the eastern front.
altar, designed by Győző Sikota. However, after the liberation After the suppression of
To the left within the grotto is a of the city by Russian troops, the uprising of 1848–9
copy of the Black Madonna of Marshal Kliment Voroshilov (see pp32–3), the Habsburgs
Czestochowa and a depiction of spotted it in the sculptor’s decided to build a fortification
a Polish eagle. Visitors will also workshop and reassigned it on this strategically important
see a painting of St Kolbe, a to this purpose. site. Constructed in 1850–54,
Polish monk who gave his life The central figure on the the Citadel housed 60 cannons,
to protect other inmates at monument is a woman holding which could, in theory, fire
Auschwitz concentration camp. aloft a palm leaf. Standing on on the city at any time. In
At the entrance to the church its pedestal, this reaches a reality, from its very inception
stands a statue of St István, the height of 14 m (46 ft). At the the Citadel did not fulfil any
real military requirements,
but served rather as a means
of intimidating the population.
The Citadel is some 220 m
(720 ft) long by 60 m (200 ft)
wide, and has walls 4 m
(12 ft) high. After peace was
agreed with the Habsburgs,
Hungarian society continually
demanded the destruction
of the Citadel, but it was not
until 1897 that the Austrian
soldiers left their barracks
here. A section of its entrance
gateway was then symbolically
ripped out.
After much discussion in
Entrance to the Cave Church, run by the Pauline order of monks the early 1960s, the Citadel




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gell É r t hill and t abán  97


was converted into a leisure
com plex. Although the complex
is currently closed due to a legal
dispute, the Citadel and the
path to the Liberation
Monument remain open to
the public. From the old
defensive walls of the Citadel
there is a spec tacular panorama
of the city below.

5 Statue of
St Gellért
Szent Gellért Emlékmű
The main plunge pool at the Rudas Baths, covered by a Turkish cupola
Map 4 D2. @ 27. (And a long walk.
Go via the steps by Elizabeth Bridge.)
and a Hungarian convert to 6 Rudas Baths
In 1904 a vast monument Christianity kneels at his feet. Rudas Gyógyfürdő
was established on the The statue was designed by Döbrentei tér 9. Map 4 D2 (9 C5).
spot where Bishop Gellért Gyula Jankovits; the semi- v 18, 19. Tel (06 1) 356 13 22.
was supposedly murdered in circular collonade behind it is Spa Baths: Open 6am–8pm daily,
the 11th century. It is said by Imre Francsek. A spring that 10pm–4am Fri & Sat. Swimming pool:
the bishop was thrown into bubbles up here was used to Open 6am–6pm Mon–Wed, 6am–
the Danube in a barrel, by a create the fountain. 8pm Thu & Sun, 10pm–4am Fri & Sat.
mob opposed to the adoption Overlooking the Elizabeth ∑ budapestspas.hu
of Christianity. St Gellért holds a Bridge, the monument can be
cross in his outstretched hand seen from throughout the city. Dating originally from 1550,
these baths were extended in
1566 by Sokoli Mustafa, an
Ottoman pasha. The main part
of the baths, dating from this
period, have an octagonal
plunge pool and four small
corner pools with water of
varying temperatures.
The baths now include a
mixed swimming pool. The spa
pools are mixed on weekends,
but Tuesdays are reserved for
women and the rest of the
week for men.

7 Queen Elizabeth
Monument
Erzsébet Királyné Szobra
Döbrentei tér. Map 4 D2 (9 C5).
This monument to Queen
Elizabeth, wife of Habsburg
Emperor Franz Joseph, was
created by György Zala.
The statue was erected in its
present location in 1986. It
stands close to the Elizabeth
Bridge (see p67), which was also
named after the empress, who
showed great friendship to the
Hungarians. The statue stood
on the opposite side of the river
from 1932 until 1947, when
the Communists ordered it
The landmark Gellért Monument overlooking the Elizabeth Bridge to be taken down.




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98  bUD apest area b y area

8 Tabán chose to live. The Celtic Eravi In the late 17th century, a large
were the first to make a number of Serbs, referred to in
Map 3 C1, C2, C3 (9B5). @ 5, 112, 178.
v 18, 19. settlement here, while the Hungarian as Rács, moved into
Romans later built a watch tower the Tabán after fleeing from
The Tabán now consists of from which they could observe the Turks. They were joined by
a pleasant park and a few people using a nearby crossing Greeks and Gypsies. Many of the
historic buildings, but was point over the river. The first inhabi tants of the Tabán at this
once very different. In the reference to bathing in thermal stage were tanners or made
early 20th century this district, waters in Tabán dates from the their living on the river. On the
nestling in between Castle 15th century. The Turks took hillside above grapevines were
Hill and Gellért Hill, was a slum advantage of this natural asset cultivated. By the early 20th
which was cleared as part of and built two magnificent baths century, though pictur esque,
a programme to improve the here, the Rácz Baths and the the district was still without
city. Only a few buildings, Rudas Baths (see pp 53 and 97), proper sanitation.
in cluding Tabán Parish Church, around which a blossoming The old, decaying Tabán, with
escaped the demolition. town was estab lished. Apart from its numerous bars and gambling
Natural conditions ensured the baths, virtually every thing dens, was demo lished and the
that this was one of the first was des troyed in the recapture present green space established
places in the area where people of Buda in 1686 (see p28). in its place.
A statue of Miklós Ybl, the
19th-century architect, was
erected here in 1894. It was
designed by Ede Mayer.









Y
B
L

Gardens with terraces, M I F
deco rative stairways and arcades K R
designed by Miklós Ybl were L I E
established here to connect the S D
Ó
Royal Palace (see pp74–5) with R I
T
the banks of the Danube. é c h
R
B O
R
N
R A K
D
Ö
A B R E T P A R T
Á R P Á D u T c E I u T A
N

c

Golden Stag
House
Several Ottoman tombstones
stand here. They are the rem nants
of a cemetery in which the Turks 0 metres 150
who died defending Buda in 1686 0 yards 150
were buried.




098-099_EW_Budapest.indd 98 05/09/2014 15:37
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm