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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this vibrant and historic city.

Explore the historic heart of Buda on Castle Hill, take a dip in one of the city's thermal baths or shop till you drop along Váci Street's market stalls: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Budapest with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out city map, help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Budapest, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Neo-Gothic Parliament, striking Hungarian State Opera, imposing Gellért Hotel and Baths and more
- Colour photographs of Budapest's historic sights, incredible architecture, beautiful baths, pretty parks

and gardens, and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about this city's fascinating

history and culture, traditional festivals and events, local food and drink, shops and markets, folk and

classical music, theatre and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Castle District, Gellért Hill and Tabán, Parliament, Central

Pest, Városliget and beyond
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

and visa and health information.

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to Hungary's spectacular capital.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-19 00:09:02

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this vibrant and historic city.

Explore the historic heart of Buda on Castle Hill, take a dip in one of the city's thermal baths or shop till you drop along Váci Street's market stalls: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Budapest with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out city map, help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Budapest, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Neo-Gothic Parliament, striking Hungarian State Opera, imposing Gellért Hotel and Baths and more
- Colour photographs of Budapest's historic sights, incredible architecture, beautiful baths, pretty parks

and gardens, and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about this city's fascinating

history and culture, traditional festivals and events, local food and drink, shops and markets, folk and

classical music, theatre and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Castle District, Gellért Hill and Tabán, Parliament, Central

Pest, Városliget and beyond
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

and visa and health information.

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to Hungary's spectacular capital.

eyewitness travel








BUDAPEST





























































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eyewitness travel








BUDAPEST





























































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eyewitness travel








BUDAPEST






Main Contributors Barbara Olszańska,
Tadeusz Olszański






















































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Contents


Produced by Wydawnictwo Wiedza i Życie, Warsaw How to Use This Guide 6
Series Editor Ewa Szwagrzyk
Consultants András Hadik, Małgorzata Omilanowska, Katalin Szokolay
Editors Joanna Egert, Anna Kożurno-Królikowska, Bożena Leszkowicz
Designer Paweł Pasternak
Dorling Kindersley Ltd
Project Editor Jane Oliver
Editors Felicity Crowe, Nancy Jones
Translators Magda Hannay, Anna Johnson, Ian Wisniewski
Photographers Gábor Barka, Dorota and Mariusz Jarymowiczowie
Illustrators Paweł Mistewicz, Piotr Zubrzycki
Printed and bound in China
Statue in Batthyány Square (see p104)
First published in the UK in 1999
by Dorling Kindersley Limited
Introducing
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK
Budapest
16 17 18 19 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Great Days in
Reprinted with revisions 2000, 2001, 2004,
Budapest 10
2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, 2015, 2017
Copyright 1999, 2017 © Dorling Kindersley Limited, London Putting Budapest
on the Map 14
A Penguin Random House Company
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be The History of
reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form Budapest 18
or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording
or otherwise, without the prior written permission Budapest at a Glance 38
of the copyright owner.
Budapest Through
A CIP catalogue record is available from the British Library.
the Year 62
ISBN: 978-0-24126-319-8
A River View of
Floors are referred to throughout in accordance with British usage;
Budapest 66
ie the “first floor” is the floor above ground level.





The information in this
DK Eyewitness Travel Guide is checked regularly.
Every effort has been made to ensure that this book is as up-to-date as possible
at the time of going to press. Some details, however, are liable to change.
The publishers cannot accept responsibility for any consequences arising from the
use of this book, nor for any material on third party websites, and cannot
guarantee that any website address in this book will be a suitable source of travel
information. We value the views and suggestions of our readers very highly.
Please write to: Publisher, DK Eyewitness Travel Guides, Dorling Kindersley,
80 Strand, London WC2R 0RL, UK, or email: [email protected].
Hungarian crest adorning a wall close to
Front cover main image: The Hungarian Parliament, seen from across the Danube the Tunnel (see p104)
Hungary’s Neo-Gothic Parliament building, with the central point marked by a dome


004-005_EW_Budapest.indd 4 15/09/16 10:32 am

Budapest
Area by Area

Castle District 72

Gellért Hill
and Tabán 90

North of the
Castle District 100
The Hungarian National Gallery (see pp78–81), in the former Royal Palace
Around
Parliament 108
Further Afield Getting Around
156 Budapest 236

Three Guided Street Finder 242
Walks 172

Travellers’ Needs

Where to Stay 182
Where to Eat
and Drink 190
Shops and The elaborate exterior of the Parliament
Markets 210 building (see pp112–13)

Entertainment General Index 257
in Budapest
214 Acknowledgments 269

Barrel-organ player in the historic Castle Survival Guide Phrase Book 271
District (see pp72–89)
Practical
Central Pest 124 Information 222
Around Getting to
Városliget 144 Budapest 232 Porcelain in the Museum of
Applied Arts (see pp140–41)













The landmark domes and towers of four of Budapest’s most striking places of worship




004-005_EW_Budapest.indd 5 15/09/16 10:32 am

6  HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE

HOW TO USE THIS GUIDE

This Eyewitness Travel Guide helps you get important sights, with photo graphs, maps
the most from your stay in Budapest with and illustrations. It also includes day trips
the minimum of difficulty. The opening from Budapest and three walks around the
section, Introducing Budapest, locates the city. Information about hotels, restaurants,
city geo graphically, sets modern Budapest shops and markets, entertainment and
in its historical context and de scribes events sports is found in Travellers’ Needs. The
through the entire year. Budapest at a Glance Survival Guide has advice on everything
is an overview of the city’s main attrac tions. from using the postal service and telephones
Budapest Area by Area is the main sight­ to Budapest’s public trans port system
seeing section and covers all of the and medical services.


Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section
Each of the six sightseeing areas in Budapest is illustrating typical parts of that area. Finding
colour-coded for easy reference. Every chapter your way around the chapter is made simple
opens with an introduction to the area of the by the numbering system used throughout.
city it covers, describing its history and charac ter, The most important sights are covered in
and has one or two Street-by-Street maps detail in two or more full pages.


Introduction to the area
BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  145
AROUND VÁROSLIGET 1For easy reference, the sights in each
Városliget, or City Park, was once an area chosen as the focus of the Millennium
of marshland, which served as a royal Celebrations in 1896 (see p146), which area are numbered and plotted on an
hunting ground. Leopold I gave the land marked the 1,000-year anniversary of
to the town of Pest, but it was in the mid- the conquest of the Carpathian basin
18th century, under Maria Theresa, that by the Magyars. A massive building area map. To help the visitor, this map
the area was drained and planted. Today’s programme was undertaken, which
park was designed towards the end of the included the Museum of Fine Arts,
19th century in the English style, which Vajdahunyad Castle and the impressive also shows underground stations,
was the fashion of the day. Városliget was monument in Heroes’ Square.
Sights at a Glance main bus and tram stops, and parking
Museums Restaurants pp204–5 10 Napfényes Étterem
1 House of Terror Museum 1 Bagolyvár Étterem 11 Olimpia Étterem
2 Franz Liszt Museum 2 Bock Bisztró 12 Paprika Vendéglő areas. The area’s key sights are listed
4 Kodály Memorial Museum 3 Ecocafe 13 La Perle Noire
6 Postal Museum 4 Grundel Étterem 14 Platán Étterem
7 Millennium Underground 5 Haxen Király Étterem 15 Rákóczi Grillház
Railway & Museum 6 Himalaya Nepáli Étterem 16 Regős Vendéglő
9 Műcsarnok Art Gallery 7 Kogart Étterem 17 Robinson by category: Museums and Galleries;
0 Museum of Fine Arts pp150–51 8 Millennium da Pippo 18 Széchenyi Kertvendéglő
9 Montenegrói Gurman 19 Zeller Bistro
Parks and Zoos Churches; Historic Streets and Squares;
w Zoo
Streets and Monuments
5 Városligeti Avenue VÁGÁNY U. VARANNÓ 0 metres 400 Palaces and Historic Buildings; Hotels
8 Millennium Monument U. 0 yards 400
r Hermina Street ÁLLATKERTI KÖRÚT
Historic Buildings Széchenyi fürdő and Baths; and Parks and Gardens.
3 University of Fine Art KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY H UNG ÁRIA K
q Vajdahunyad Castle DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
e Széchenyi Baths HOSÖK TERE H E R M I N A Ú T
t Erkel Theatre MIMÓZA ÖR ÚT
ANDRÁSSY ÚT Hosök tere Városliget
Bajza utca XIV HERMINA ÚT
Kodály
körönd BENCZÚR U. VÁROSLIGETI FASOR DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT A J T Ó S I D Ü R E R S O R STEFÁNIA ÚT JÁVOR U.
ANDRÁSSY ÚT ERDŐSOR FELSŐ DAMJANICH U. ZICHY GÉZA U.
Vörösmarty SZÍV U. BAJZA U. ABONYI U. TH Ö K ÖLY ÚT A locator map
utca RÓZSA U. VII HERNÁD U. DEMBINSZKY U. MAREK JÓZSEF U. CHÁZÁR ANDRÁS U. SZABÓ J. U.
MURÁNYI U.
U. CSENGERY K I R Á LY U . JÓSIKA U. BETHLEN GÁBOR U. NEFELEJCS U. ISTVÁN ÚT CSERHÁT U. SAJÓ U. shows where you
Oktogon EÖTVÖS U. HEVESI S. DOB U.
TÉR
GÁBOR BETHLEN ALPÁR U.
TÉR PÉTERFY SÁNDOR U. are in relation to
RÓZSA U.
WESSELÉNYI U. ALMÁSSY U. DOHÁNY U. Keleti the other areas
VÖRÖSMARTY U.
DOB U. CSENGERY U. R O T TENBI L LE R U . GARAY U. THÖKÖLY ÚT JOBBÁGY U.
IZABELLA U.
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
ALSÓ U.
HÁRSFA U. RÁKÓCZI ÚT MUNKÁS U. KEREPESI ÚT Pályaudvar
in the city centre.
FIUMEI ÚT
Blaha L. BEZERÉDJ U. BERZSENYI D. U.
JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
tér II. JÁNOS PÁL
PÁPA TÉR DOLOGHÁZ U.
KISS JÓZSEF U.
Il. János Pál See also Street Finder
NÉPSZÍNHÁZ U.
LUTHER U.
pápa tér maps 5, 6, 7 & 8
One of the outdoor pools at Széchenyi Baths For keys to symbols see back flap
Street-by-Street map 82  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T  83
2This gives a bird’s-eye view of interesting Street-by-Street: the Old Town q . Mátyás Church NORTH OF THE
Although with much earlier
CASTLE DISTRICT
and important parts of each sightseeing Buda’s old town has been a barometer of Hungary’s parts, this church is mainly CASTLE DISTRICT
a Neo-Gothic reconstruction
changing fortunes. It developed, to the north of the Royal
dating from 1874–96.
A pictur esque vestibule on
Palace, from the 13th century. Under kings such as
area. The num bering of the sights ties Sigismund, it flourished, and wealthy German merchants set the church’s southern façade Locator Map GELLÉRT HILL
covers an original Gothic
up shops in Lords’ Street (Úri utca) to supply the court. The
portal dating from the
area was later destroyed by the Turks and again by their
AND TABÁN
14th century.
evictors, the Holy League army formed of European
up with the area map and the fuller Christians. It was rebuilt after World War II, but genuine t Mihály Táncsics Street See Street Finder, maps 1 & 9
During the Middle Ages, this street
was inhabited by Jews. A museum
relics can be hunted out in its cobbled streets and squares.
at No. 26, on the site of an old
de scription on the pages that follow. synagogue, displays finds such
as tombstones.
This statue of St
Stephen, or István, the
first crowned king of
B É CSI Hungary (see pp24–5), was w Fishermen’s Bastion
K APU erected in 1906. Its Designed by Frigyes Schulek
T É R in 1895, this fantastical
pedestal includes a bas- structure never had
relief showing scenes the role of a defensive
from the king’s life. building, despite its
name. It serves instead
as a viewing terrace.
The conical towers
The State Archive of Historic F O R T U N A U T C A T Á N C S I C S M U T C A are an allusion to the
Each area has colour- Documents, located in a Neo- Ú R I U T C A tribal tents of the
early Magyars.
Romanesque building, houses
items that were transferred to
coded thumb tabs. Buda in 1785 from the former O R S Z Á G H Á Z U T C A 9 Holy Trinity Square
capital of Hungary, Bratislava.
In 1713, after overcoming
an epidemic of the plague,
a column represent ing the
Holy Trinity was raised in
this square.
Defensive walls
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
i Church of St Mary Magdalene T Á R N O K U T C A
The reconstructed Baroque tower is all that a . Lords’ Street
A suggested route takes in some remains of the 13th-century Church of St Once the homes of Pharmacy Museum
Mary Magdalene, where Emperor Francis I
aristocrats and mer-
8 Golden Eagle
chants, the houses on
was crowned King of Hungary in 1792.
From the 18th century
of the most interesting and Key Suggested route Úri utca have medi eval “Under the Golden Eagle”
foundations. Many have
a pharmacy called
Gothic details and
traded in this medieval
peaceful courtyards.
attractive streets in the area. house, now a museum.
006-007_EW_Budapest.indd 6 15/09/16 10:30 am

HOW T O USE THIS GUIDE  7

Budapest Area Map
The coloured areas shown on this map Budapest Area by Area
(see inside front cover) are the six main
sightseeing areas used in this guide. KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY H U N G Á R IA K Ö R ÚT
Each is covered in a full chapter in Margit híd
Around Parliament
Budapest Area by Area (pp70–171). North of the M AR GI T K ÖR ÚT NORTH OF AROUND TER É Z KÖRÚT AND RÁS S Y Ú T T HÖKÖ LY ÚT
Pages 108–123
SZENT ISTVÁN KRT
Castle District
THE CASTLE
They are highlighted on other maps Pages 100–107 DISTRICT PARLIAMENT BAJC SY-Z SI LI N SZ K Y Ú T VÁROSLIGET
AROUND
BÁTHORY U.
throughout the book. In Budapest at DISTRICT B EM RA KPA RT D a n u b e ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T ER ZS ÉB ET KÖR ÚT T H Ö K Ö LY ÚT
CASTLE
a Glance, for example, they help you Széchenyi lánchíd JÓZSEF ATTILA U. CENTRAL PEST RÁK Ó CZ I Ú T
locate the top sights. They are also KR I SZ T INA KÖ R ÚT AT T I L A ÚT JANE HANING R. RÁKÓ C ZI ÚT
used to help you find the position H E G YAL J A Ú T Erzsébet híd J ÓZ SE F K ÖR ÚT
of the three walks (pp172–9). Castle District GELLÉRT HILL VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü L LŐI Ú T B A R OSS U .
Pages 72–89
AND TABÁN
BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT Around Városliget
Pages 144–155
Central Pest
Pages 124–143
0 metres 500
0 yards 500 Gellért Hill and Tabán
Pages 90–99
Finding Your Way Around the Sightseeing Section
Detailed information
76  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T  77
3on each sight
graphs and sheet music is a beautiful peasant girl, Ilonka,
housed in wing F of the Royal who falls in love with him. This
Palace, built in 1890–1902 by representation shows King
Alajos Hauszmann and Miklós Mátyás disguised as a hunter, All the important sights in Budapest are
Ybl (see p123). Previously, the standing proudly with his kill.
library was part of the Hungarian He is accompanied by his chief
National Museum (see pp134–7). hunter and several hunting described individually. They are listed in
Among the library’s most dogs in the central part of the
precious treasures are 35 pieces fountain. Beneath the left­hand
from the Bibliotheca Corviniana, columns sits Galeotto Marzio, an
a collection of ancient books Italian court poet, and the figure order following the numbering on the
and manuscripts that originally of the young Ilonka is beneath
belonged to King Mátyás the columns on the right.
Corvinus (see pp26–7). Also of In keeping with the romantic
importance are the earliest reputation of King Mátyás, a area map at the start of the section.
surviving records in the new tradition has grown up
Hungarian language, dating concerning this statue. The
from the early 13th century. be lief is that anyone wishing to The western elevation of the Neo-Classical Sándor Palace
The library was established revisit Budapest should throw Practical information includes a map
Renaissance majolica floor from the 15th century, uncovered during excavations on Castle by Count Ferenc Széchényi in some coins into the fountain The house at No. 3 was built when it was severely damaged
Hill and displayed at the Budapest History Museum 1802. He endowed it with 15,000 to ensure their safe return. between 1743–8, by József in World War II. The building has
1 Budapest History On the first floor, the permanent books and 2,000 manu scripts. Giessl. This two­floor Baroque been completely restored, and reference, opening hours, telephone
palace was the home of the
it is now the official residence of
The collection now comprises
Museum exhibition “Budapest – Light nine million items. The library 4 Hungarian Batthyány family until 1945. the President of Hungary.
Budapesti Történeti Múzeum and Shadow: The 1,000­year runs events and exhibitions that National Gallery Although the building has
History of a Capital” leads
draw on its rich collection.
been frequently remodelled,
Szent György tér 2. Map 3 C1 (9 B4). visitors through the millennium See pp78–81. the façade remains intact. 7 Court Theatre numbers and admission charges. The key
Tel (06 1) 487 88 00. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, that formed the Hungarian A few houses on Parade of Buda
178. v 56. Open Mar–Oct: 10am– capital, from the Roman Square incorporate medieval Várszínház
6pm Tue–Sun; Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm settlement of Aquincum remains. Such houses can be to the symbols used is on the back flap.
Tue–Sun. & 7 ∑ btm.hu (see pp166–7) to the political seen at Nos. 4–5 and No. 11, Színház utca 1–3. Map 1 C5 (9 A3).
@ 16, 16A, 116. Closed for renovation.
Since the unification of Budapest change in 1989 (see p36). built by Venerio Ceresola. The
in 1873, historic artifacts relating former has seat niches dating An unlikely assortment of
to Hungary’s capital have from the 13th century. institutions have stood on
been collected. Many are 2 National this site. The church of St John
now on show at the Budapest Széchényi Library the Evangelist, founded by
History Museum. Országos Széchényi Könyvtár 6 Sándor Palace King Béla IV, stood here in the
During the rebuilding that Szent György tér 6. Map 3 C1 (9 B4). Sándor Palota 13th century. This church was
followed the destruction suffered Tel (06 1) 224 37 00. @ 5, 16, 16A, Szent György tér 1–3. Map 1 C5 (9 A3). then used as a mosque under
in World War II, chambers 116, 178. v 56. Open 9am–8pm @ 16, 16A, 116. Closed to the public. Ottoman rule, and in 1686 it
dating from the Middle Ages Tue–Sat. ∑ oszk.hu Crest on the Lion Gate in a courtyard ∑ keh.hu was demolished by the Façades of important buildings
were uncovered in the south at the Royal Palace Christian armies that retook
wing (wing E) of the Royal A magnificent collection of By the top of the cog­wheel the city. In 1725 the Carmelite
Palace. They provide an insight books, manuscripts, maps, 3 Mátyás Fountain railway stands the grand Neo­ order built a Baroque church are often shown to help you
into the character of a much engravings, posters, photo­ Mátyás Kút Classical mansion, Sándor in its place and this building
earlier castle within today’s Royal Palace. Map 1 C5 (9 B3). Palace. It was commissioned in was first converted into a
Habsburg reconstruction. @ 5, 16, 16A, 116, 178. v 56. 1806 by Count Vincent Sándor theatre in 1786, during the recognize them quickly.
These chambers, including a from architects Mihály Pollack reign of Emperor Joseph II.
tiny prison cell and a chapel, The ornate fountain in the Batthyány Palace on Parade Square retains and Johann Aman. Farkas Kempelen, a famous
were recreated in the basement northwest courtyard of the its original Baroque façade The bas­reliefs that decorate Hung arian designer added a
of the palace. They now house Royal Palace (situated between the palace are the work of Rococo façade and seats for
an exhibition, the Royal Palace wings A and C) was designed 5 Parade Square Richárd Török, Miklós Melocco 1,200 spectators. The first plays
in Medieval Buda, which dis­ by Alajos Stróbl in 1904. The Dísz Tér and Tamás Körössényi. The were in German and it was not
plays authentic weapons, seals, statue is dedicated to the great Map 1 B5 (9 A3). @ 16, 16A, 116. decoration on the western ele­ until 1790 that any work was
tiles and other early artifacts. Renaissance king, Mátyás, about vation depicts Greek gods on staged in Hungarian. Beethoven’s
On the ground and first floors whom there are many popular Parade Square is named after the Mount Olympus. The southern concert of 1800 is com­
of the museum, exhibits trace legends and fables. military parades that were held elevation shows Count Sándor memorated by a plaque. Numbers refer to each sight’s
the history of Buda Castle from The Romantic design of the here in the 19th century. At the being knighted and the north­ The building was damaged in
1686 to the present. Also on the bronze sculptures takes its northern end of the square is the ern elevation features a 1934 World War II and restored in 1978,
ground floor are Gothic Statues theme from a 19th­century Honvéd Monument, built in 1893 sculpture of Saint George by after which it regularly hosted
from the Royal Palace and a ballad by the poet Mihály by György Zala. It honours and Zsigmond Kisfaludi Stróbl. performances by the National position on the area map and
tapestry with the Hungarian­ Vörösmarty. According to the commemorates those who died Sándor Palace functioned Dance Theatre. The theatre is
Angevin coat­of­arms dating Corvinian illuminated manuscript in the tale, King Mátyás, while on a during the recapture of Buda from as the prime minister’s official currently closed due to
from the 14th and 15th centuries. National Széchényi Library hunting expedition, meets Austria in the 1848 revolution. residence from 1867 to 1944, extensive renovation work. its place in the chapter.
Practical information provides everything
you need to know to visit each sight. Map
references pinpoint the sight’s location on
the Street Finder maps (pp242–53). 86  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T  87
q Mátyás Church . Tomb of King Béla III and Anne VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
de Châtillon
Mátyás-templom The remains of this royal couple were Practical Information
transferred from Székesfehérvár
The Parish Church of Our Lady Mary was Cathedral to Mátyás Church in 1860. Szentháromság tér 2. Map 1 B4.
Tel (06 1) 355 56 57. Open 9am–
built on this site between the 13th and 15th They lie beneath an ornamental stone 5pm Mon–Sat, 1–5pm Sun (times
canopy in the Trinity Chapel.
centuries. Some of the existing architectural vary). 7 8 & Museum:
style dates from the reign of Sigismund of Open same hours as the church.
Luxembourg, but its name refers to King Transport
Mátyás Corvinus, who greatly enlarged and @ 16, 16A, 116.
embellished the church. Much of the original
detail was lost when the Turks converted the Rose Window Pulpit
church into the Great Mosque in 1541. After Frigyes Schulek faithfully repro duced The richly decorated
pulpit includes the carved
the medieval stained-glass window
Budapest’s major sights the liberation of Buda in 1686, Jesuit fathers that was in this position during the stone figures of the four
modified the building in the Baroque style. The
Fathers of the Church and
early Gothic era.
82  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA C ASTLE DISTRIC T  83 church sustained more damage in 1723, and the four Evangelists.
was restored in the Neo-Gothic style by Frigyes
Street-by-Street: the Old Town q . Mátyás Church NORTH OF THE 4Historic buildings are dissected Schulek in 1873–96. The gallery rooms house
the Museum of Ecclesiastical Art.
Although with much earlier CASTLE DISTRICT
Buda’s old town has been a barometer of Hungary’s parts, this church is mainly
changing fortunes. It developed, to the north of the Royal a Neo-Gothic reconstruction CASTLE to reveal their interiors; Béla Tower
dating from 1874–96.
Palace, from the 13th century. Under kings such as A pictur esque vestibule on DISTRICT This tower is named after the
Sigismund, it flourished, and wealthy German merchants set the church’s southern façade church’s founder, King Béla IV.
It has retained several of its
up shops in Lords’ Street (Úri utca) to supply the court. The covers an original Gothic GELLÉRT HILL museums and galleries have original Gothic features.
area was later destroyed by the Turks and again by their portal dating from the AND TABÁN
14th century.
evictors, the Holy League army formed of European t Mihály Táncsics Street Locator Map
Christians. It was rebuilt after World War II, but genuine During the Middle Ages, this street See Street Finder, maps 1 & 9 colour-coded floorplans to help
relics can be hunted out in its cobbled streets and squares. was inhabited by Jews. A museum
at No. 26, on the site of an old
synagogue, displays finds such Stained-Glass Windows
as tombstones. you find important exhibits. Three arched windows on
the south elevation have
They were design ed by
Frigyes Schulek, Bertalan
This statue of St 19th-century stained glass.
Stephen, or István, the Székely and Károly Lotz.
first crowned king of
B É CSI Hungary (see pp24–5), was w Fishermen’s Bastion . Baroque Madonna
K APU erected in 1906. Its Designed by Frigyes Schulek According to legend, the original statue
T É R in 1895, this fantastical
pedestal includes a bas- structure never had was set into a wall of the church during . Mary Portal
relief showing scenes the role of a defensive the Turkish occupa tion. When this wall This depiction of the Assumption of
from the king’s life. building, despite its was destroyed in 1686, the Madonna the Blessed Virgin Mary is the most
name. It serves instead made a miraculous appearance. The Turks magnificent example of Gothic stone
took this as an omen of defeat.
as a viewing terrace. carving in Hungary. Frigyes Schulek
The conical towers reconstructed the portal
The State Archive of Historic F O R T U N A U T C A T Á N C S I C S M U T C A are an allusion to the from fragments.
Documents, located in a Neo- tribal tents of the
Romanesque building, houses early Magyars.
items that were transferred to Ú R I U T C A 1370 Church 1476 Wedding of King 1686 After liberation Holy figures on
Buda in 1785 from the former construction Mátyás to Beatrice of Aragon of Buda, Jesuits the pulpit
capital of Hungary, Bratislava. O R S Z Á G H Á Z U T C A Main Portal works started (aka Beatrice of Naples) converted the church
9 Holy Trinity Square Above the arched under the reign 1541 Turks in Baroque style 2004–2014 Full
of Anjou Louis
convert church
reconstruction
In 1713, after overcoming west entrance is a the Great into a mosque of the building
an epidemic of the plague, 19th-century bas-relief KEY 1250 1350 1450 1550 1650 1750 1850 1950 2050
a column represent ing the Stars indicate the of the Madonna and
Holy Trinity was raised in Child, seated between 1 The roof is decorated with 1309 Coronation 1526 Cathedral 1896 Frigyes Schulek completes
burnt in the first
of the Angevin
this square. two angels. The relief multicoloured glazed tiles. king Charles Robert attack by Turks the recon struction of the church
features no visitor is made of pyrogranite 2 The main altar was created 1255 Church originally 1470 Mátyás Tower 1945 Church is severely damaged by 1970 Final details are
in the Neo-Gothic style
ceramics produced in
completed in post-war
is completed after
founded by King Béla IV
by Frigyes Schulek and based on
factory (see p58).
Defensive walls should miss. Pécs at the Zsolnay Gothic triptychs. after the Mongol invasion its collapse in 1384 German and Russian armies rebuilding programme
0 metres 50
0 yards 50
A timeline The visitors’
i Church of St Mary Magdalene charts the key checklist provides
T Á R N O K U T C A
The reconstructed Baroque tower is all that a . Lords’ Street
remains of the 13th-century Church of St Once the homes of
Mary Magdalene, where Emperor Francis I aristocrats and mer- 8 Golden Eagle events in the all the practical
was crowned King of Hungary in 1792. chants, the houses on Pharmacy Museum
Úri utca have medi eval From the 18th century
Key foundations. Many have a pharmacy called
peaceful courtyards.
traded in this medieval
Suggested route Gothic details and “Under the Golden Eagle” history of the information needed
house, now a museum.
building. to plan your visit.
006-007_EW_Budapest.indd 7 15/09/16 10:30 am

008-009_EW_Budapest.indd 8 05/09/2014 15:41
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Date 15th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

INTRODUCING


BUDAPEST





Great Days in Budapest 10–13

Putting Budapest on the Map 14–17
The History of Budapest 18–37
Budapest at a Glance 38–59
Budapest Through the Year 62–65
A River View of Budapest 66–69













































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10  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

GREAT DAYS IN BUDAPEST

This historic, sprawling city has so much to and then by length of stay. Sightseers should
offer it can be difficult to decide how best to manage everything on these itineraries, but
spend your time. Whether you are here for the selections can also be dipped into for
several days, or just wanting a flavour of this ideas. All routes are reachable by public
great city, you’ll find itineraries for some of transport. Price guides on pages 10 and
the best of Budapest’s attractions on the 11 are for two adults or for a family of two
following pages, arranged first under themes adults and two children, including lunch.

Afternoon The Finer Side of Life
A short walk along Tárnok utca
into central Buda, past myriad
souvenir shops, leads to Two adults allow at least
Fishermen’s Bastion (see p84). 35,000 HUF
From here there are glorious • A morning at the spa baths
views of Pest, especially • The Museum of Fine Arts
Parliament (see pp112–13) and
Chain Bridge (see p66), almost • A walk to the Opera
directly below. Do not fail to House
visit ancient Mátyás Church • Dinner at Gresham
(see pp86–7) – where there are Kávéház
organ concerts some summer
evenings – before walking along
the wonderfully preserved streets Morning
Passengers ride the antique Sikló funicular of Buda’s Old Town. Follow Start with coffee in Gerbeaud
railway up Castle Hill Fortuna utca round to Kapisztrán (see p201), the city’s most
tér and the lone, ruined tower of famous café. Then ride
St Mary Magdalene (see p88). the beautifully preserved
A Day on Castle Hill Peerless Lords’ Street (see Millennium Line (see p238)
p89), with its Gothic details and to Széchenyi Baths (see p155),
Two adults allow 25,000– peaceful courtyards, leads to and spend at least three hours
30,000 HUF the bizarre subterranean indulging in bathing, sauna,
• Art at the Royal Palace Labyrinth (see p89). Nearby massage and other treatments
Alabárdos (see p196) is the in glor ious imperial surround-
• Lunch in a Castle
courtyard perfect place for an early ings. Stop for lunch at Gundel
dinner in a medieval setting. Étterem (see p205).
• Concert at Mátyás Church
• A subterranean Labyrinth

Morning
Buda’s Castle District (see pp72–
89) towers over Pest. Winding
paths lead up Castle Hill from
Clark Adám tér, but the
traditional way up is by the
Sikló (see p239), a funicular
railway that opened in 1870.
Start the day with a tour of the
grounds of the Royal Palace
(see pp74–5). Take time to admire
the Romantic design of Mátyás
Fountain (see pp76–7), and to
visit the wonderful collection
of 19th-century Hungarian
paintings at the National Gallery
(see pp78–81). Leave the Palace
area through the ornamental
Habsburg Gate, then stop at
Rivalda (see p196) for a splendid
al fresco lunch. One of three outdoor pools at Széchenyi Baths, the deepest in Budapest
The coronation of Franz Joseph I by Ede Heinrich (1819–1885)



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GREA T D A Y S IN BUD APEST  11


Afternoon
Walk off the effects of lunch
in the Museum of Fine Arts
(see pp150–53), which houses
Hungary’s finest collection of
foreign art in a monumental
building facing Heroes’
Square (see pp146–7).
On leaving the museum,
walk past the Millennium
Monument (see p149) and
down Andrássy út – a superb
avenue of embassies and
consulates, giving way to
restaurants and shops – and
stop at one of the many cafés Children relax at Budakeszi Wildlife Park in the Buda Hills
on Liszt Ferenc tér (see pp202–
203). The highlight of Andrássy Afternoon the Jewish Museum. The
út is No. 22, the Hungarian A well-marked path runs from Holocaust Memorial is found
State Opera (see pp122–3), which the café to Budakeszi Wildlife behind the synagogue’s
offers guided tours in the late Park (open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri, courtyard. The rest of the
afternoon. From here, walk 9am–6pm Sat & Sun; Tel (06 1) 23 quarter is known for its gift
along lower Andrássy út, over 451 783). The park is set over shops and book stores, and the
Erzsébet tér, to the Gresham 3 sq km (1 sq mile) and contains less ostentatious syna gogues
Palace hotel (see p118), facing a wide variety of animals, from on Rumbach S. utca and
Chain Bridge. Finally, spend the wild boar (which also roam the Kazinczy utca. On the same
evening dining at the informal surrounding country side), to street, stop for a kosher lunch
Gresham Restaurant (see p199), wolves. There is a separate reserve at Carmel Étterem (see p203).
famous for its “Three Foie Gras”, for plants and flora. A walking
a Hungarian speciality. safari tours the best of both areas. Afternoon
The on-site restaurant is a great Váci utca (see p131) offers great
Family Fun al Fresco place for supper, and offers folk shopping at its northern end –
music after 6pm. At going-home for souvenirs, fashion and fine
time the Children’s Railway will Hungarian porcelain at Goda
Family of 4 allow at least be closed, but buses 22A and (No. 9). Visit the Inner City
30,000 HUF 222 take you back to the Széll Parish Church (see pp128–9),
• A tour of the Buda Hills Kálmán tér metro station. then cross Kossuth Lajos út,
on the Children’s Railway and head south past the Klotild
• A walking safari round History and Shopping Palaces (see p131) and more
Budakeszi Wildlife Park shops, to Fövám tér. Rest here
in a café. Across the road is
• Supper and folk music Two adults allow at least the final retail challenge of the
20,000 HUF (plus shopping) day – the huge food market at
• The surviving monuments Central Market Hall (see p211).
Morning of the Jewish Quarter
Head for the Buda Hills • A traditional Jewish lunch
(see p165) by means of the • Shopping on Váci utca and
Széchenyi Hill cog railway
(5am–11pm; Tel (06 1) 355 41 67), in Central Market
which begins at Szilágyi
Erzsébet fasor, just north of
Széll Kálmán tér metro station. Morning
At the top, a short walk leads Start at the Hungarian National
to the TV tower (closed) and Museum (see pp134–7), where
the terminus of the Children’s Sándor Petőfi read his National
Railway (open May–Aug: Song in 1848 (see p33). Spend
10am–5pm). The steam engine an hour amongst the treasures
departs on the hour and of Hungary’s turbulent past,
meanders through the Buda then go to another historic
hills to Hűvösvölgy, passing location – the Jewish Quarter
the Erzsébet Look-Out Tower. (see p138). The Great Synagogue
Disembark at Szép Juhászné (see p138) on Dohány utca is
station for lunch at the a splendid Byzantine-style One of the many busy terrace cafés that
outdoor café. building, attached to which is line Váci utca




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12  INTRODUCING BUD APEST CITY ITINERARY


2 Days in Budapest Afternoon Resume with a
leisurely walk down touristy,
but entertaining, Váci utca (see
• Explore Castle Hill, the p131). Eventually you’ll reach the
historic heart of Buda elegantly designed Central
• Hop aboard the city’s Market Hall (see p211), where
century-old funicular you can enjoy the dazzling array
of fresh produce and other
• Browse amongst the
colourful food stalls at edible goodies. A host of
the Central Market Hall marvellous treasures can then
be admired at the Hungarian
National Museum (see pp134–7).
Day 1
Morning Explore the historic 3 Days in Budapest
heart of Buda, Castle Hill (see Boating lake at Városliget, Budapest’s
pp72–89). Admire the fine 13th- largest city park
century Mátyás Church (see • Take a dip in Budapest’s
pp86–7) before taking in the most historic bath house couple of relaxing hours at the
superlative views across the • Marvel at the Great magnificent Gellért Hotel and
Danube from the Fishermen’s Synagogue, the largest Baths Complex (see pp94–5).
Bastion (see p84). Enjoy lunch in in Europe
one of the area’s classy restaurants. • Stretch your legs in Day 2
Városliget before tucking Morning Immerse yourself in
Afternoon Carry on down to into a lakeside lunch the Jewish Quarter (see p138),
the Royal Palace (see pp74–5), dominated by the Great
which houses the engrossing Synagogue (see p138), the
Hungarian National Gallery Day 1 largest in Europe, before moving
(see pp78–81). Then jump aboard Morning Begin the day in style on to the Hungarian National
the Sikló (see p239), the funicular by hopping aboard the antique Museum (see pp134–7), which is
that transports you down to the Sikló funicular railway (see p239) packed with terrific art and
majestic Chain Bridge (see p66). up to Castle Hill (see pp72–89), artifacts. As the morning ends,
End the day by taking a stroll where the Royal Palace (see treat yourself to a few goodies
along the banks of the Danube pp74–5), housing the wonderful at the Central Market Hall (see
through the Víziváros district Hungarian National Gallery p211). You can even lunch here.
(see pp102–103), perhaps ending (see pp78–81) and National
the day in a local café. Széchényi Library (see p76), awaits. Afternoon Hop aboard the
Walk along Fishermen’s Bastion scenic no. 2 tram along the Pest
Day 2 (see p84) for unrivalled river views. embankment up to Parliament
Morning Devote the morning (see pp112–13) for a tour of the
to discovering the historic Afternoon Admire the city’s landmark building. From
Parliament (see pp112–13), beautifully asymmetrical, here, it’s a pleasant walk down
with its iconic red dome, and diamond-patterned roofs of to St Stephen’s Basilica (see
then St Stephen’s Basilica (see the Mátyás Church (see pp86–7), pp120–21), Budapest’s most
pp120–21), in which the Holy followed by a gentle wander important ecclesiastical building.
Right Hand of the eponymous through the area’s ancient Have a peek inside the opulent
saint resides. Enjoy lunch in the cobbled streets, notably Lords’ Gresham Palace Hotel (see
buzzy area of Vörösmarty tér Street (see p89), awash with p118), before enjoying refresh-
(see p130). Gothic details. Wallow for a ments in one of the many grand
coffee houses hereabouts.
Day 3
Morning Walk up Andrássy
út to view the opulent
Hungarian State Opera (see
pp122–3) and the striking eight-
sided Oktogon square, beyond
which lies the absorbing, if
sobering, House of Terror
Museum (see p148). Continue
along the upper stretch of
Andrássy út to Pest’s green
oasis, the Városliget or City
Park (see p145), and take lunch
Széhenyi Chain Bridge with Buda Castle in the background at one of the park’s restaurants.




012-013_EW_Budapest.indd 12 15/09/16 10:32 am
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Size 125mm x 217mm

CITY ITINERARY
GREA T D A Y S IN BUD APEST  13


at the Millennium Monument
(see p149) before visiting the
Museum of Fine Arts (see
pp150–53), housing Hungary’s
finest collection of foreign art.
Enjoy lunch at a restaurant in
Városliget (see p145).
Afternoon Take a stroll through
the park to Vajdahunyad Castle
(see p154), where you can visit
the Museum of Hungarian
Agriculture (see p154) and,
across the way, the beautiful
One of the stone lions on Széchenyi Chain Bridge with the Fishermen’s Bastion behind little Ják Church (see p147).
Amble between the lakes to
Afternoon Head to Budapest Day 2 Budapest Zoo (see pp154–5),
Zoo (see pp154–5), as famous for Morning Jump aboard the whose animal enclosures are
its fantastic Secessionist enclosures Sikló funicular (see p239) for perhaps the most striking
as its animals – don’t miss the splendid views of the iconic feature of the entire complex.
beautifully designed Elephant Chain Bridge (see p66). Once on
House. Make your way round to Castle Hill (see pp72–89), head Day 5
the opposite side of the park for to the Royal Palace (see pp74–5) Morning Catch the no. 2 tram
a nose around the fairytale where you can spend the along the Pest embankment to
Vajdahunyad Castle (see p154), morning poring over native view the peerless Parliament
then, if there’s time, round the masters like Csontváry and (see pp112–13). Continue north
day off with a leisurely boat ride. Munkácsy inside the Hungarian to Margaret Island (see pp176–
National Gallery (see pp78–81). 7), walking from the Centenary
5 Days in Budapest Monument at its southern tip,
Afternoon After a glimpse inside past the Franciscan ruins and
the Mátyás Church (see pp86–7) Water Tower, before reaching
• Make a beeline for the and a short ramble along the Grand Hotel Margitsziget
shops and stalls on Fishermen’s Bastion (see p84), (see p177) for refreshment.
bustling Váci utca wander across to Gellért Hill
• Enjoy great views from (see pp92–3), crowned by the Afternoon Now on the Buda
the Buda Hills formidable bulk of the Citadel side, take the hév train to
(see p92) and the imposing Aquincum (see pp166–7), the
• Explore Margaret Island,
Liberation Monument (see p92). old Roman town, where you
the city’s green lungs
can explore the extensive
Day 3 remains, including ancient
Day 1 Morning Stimulate your senses streets, temples, baths and
Morning Start the day by at the Central Market Hall (see houses. Return to the heart
delving into the country’s p211), before enjoying close-up of Buda for a bite to eat.
turbulent past at the Hungarian views of the Danube with a walk
National Museum (see pp134–7). across Liberty Bridge (see p69).
Then head to another historic Now on the Buda side, round off
location – the Jewish Quarter the morning with a soak at the
(see p138), taking in the Byzantine- historic Gellért Hotel and Baths
inspired Great Synagogue Complex (see pp94–5).
(see p138) and the striking
Holocaust Memorial (see p138). Afternoon Head for the Buda
Hills (see p165) by means of the
Afternoon Peruse the souvenir Cogwheel Railway (see p165), a
and fashion shops along 3km- (2-mile) long stretch of track
pedestrian ized Váci utca (see built in 1874. Take in the views
p131), before making a beeline before returning to Víziváros
for Andrássy út and a backstage (see pp102–103), the old fisher-
tour of the Miklós Ybl-designed men’s district, for a light drink.
Hungarian State Opera
(see pp122–3). Further along Day 4
Andrássy út, visit the House Morning Ride the beautifully
of Terror Museum (see p148), preserved Millennium Line
which powerfully documents (see p238) to Heroes’ Square Guests enjoying one of the indoor pools at
previous terror regimes. (see pp146–7), pausing to look the Géllert Hotel and Baths Complex




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14  in T r ODucing B u D a PE s T

Putting Budapest on the Map Vlkolínec Poprad Levoča
Prešov Nyzhni
The capital of Hungary, Budapest has over 1.8 million Vorota
inhabitants, a fifth of the country’s total population. The city Banská SLOVAKIA
is situated on the Danube and covers an area of 525 sq km Bystrica Košice
(200 sq miles). One third of the city is taken up by hilly Buda Košice Airport Užhorod UKRAINE
and Óbuda, on the western bank of the Danube, and the Zvolen Sena
remaining two thirds by flat Pest, on the eastern bank. Mukacheve
Budapest has a pivotal location at the heart of central Europe. Lučenec Záhony
From here one can easily reach other major cities such as
Vienna, Zagreb, Bratislava, Belgrade, Bucharest and Prague.
Encs
Šahy
Salgótarján Miskolc
Hron
Tisa (Tisza)
Mátészalka
Nyíregyháza
Eger
Wiener Neusiedler Danube (Duna) Vác
Neustadt See Gyöngyös
Sopron Győr Satu
Tisa (Tisza)
Mare
Tatabánya Gödöllő
AUSTRIA BUDAPEST Jászberény Debrecen
Rába See inset Debrecen
map below Airport
Hartberg Szombathely Püspökladány
Székesfehérvár Pilis
Szolnok
HUNGAR Y
Veszprém
Zalaegerszeg Lake Kecskemét
Balaton Siofók Előszállás Solt
Körös
Hévíz-Balaton Balatonlelle
SLOVENIA Airport Békéscsaba
Maribor
Nagykanizsa
Vése
Kaposvár Szekszárd
Varaždin
Szeged
CROATIA Arad
Pécs Baja Subotica
Szigetvár ROMANIA
Europe NORWAY Tisa
Nor th SWEDEN ESTONIA
Sea LATVIA Drava
DENMARK LITHUANIA
REP. OF UNITED BELARUS
IRELAND KINGDOM NETH. POLAND Osijek
GERMANY SERBIA
BELGIUM CZECH
REPUBLIC UKRAINE
SLOVAKIA
AUSTRIA Budapest CROA TIA
Atlantic SWITZ. SLOV. Danube (Duna) Zrenjanin
Ocean FRANCE CROATIA ROMANIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
HERZ. Novi Sad
ITALY MONTEN. KOS. BULGARIA
MAC.
SP AIN ALBANIA
PORTUGAL GREECE
Belgrade
ALGERIA Belgrade Nikola Pančevo
MOROCCO TUNISIA
Tesla
Šabac
014-015_EW_Budapest.indd 14 05/09/2014 15:41
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Date 6th November 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

put ting bud apest on the m ap  15

Poprad
Vlkolínec Levoča
Prešov
Nyzhni
Vorota
Banská SLOVAKIA
Bystrica Košice
Košice Airport Užhorod UKRAINE
Zvolen Sena
Mukacheve
Lučenec Záhony

Encs
Šahy
Salgótarján Miskolc
Hron
Tisa (Tisza)
Mátészalka
Nyíregyháza
Eger
Wiener Neusiedler Danube (Duna) Vác
Neustadt See Gyöngyös
Sopron Győr Satu
Tisa (Tisza)
Mare
Tatabánya Gödöllő
AUSTRIA BUDAPEST Jászberény Debrecen
Rába See inset Debrecen
map below Airport
Hartberg Szombathely Püspökladány
Székesfehérvár Pilis
Szolnok
HUNGAR Y
Veszprém
Zalaegerszeg Lake Kecskemét Key
Balaton Siofók Előszállás Solt
Körös Motorway
Hévíz-Balaton Balatonlelle Major road
SLOVENIA Airport Békéscsaba Motorway under construction
Maribor Railway
Nagykanizsa
Country boundary
Vése
Kaposvár Szekszárd
Varaždin
0 km 50
Szeged
CROATIA Arad 0 miles 25
Pécs Baja Subotica
Szigetvár ROMANIA
Budapest and
Tisa
Újpest
Environs
Óbuda Újpalota
Drava
Angyalföld Árpádföld
Osijek See next Zugló Sashalom
SERBIA Zugliget page
Mátyásföld
Sasad
CROA TIA
Zrenjanin Budaörs
Kelenföld Erzsébettelep
Danube (Duna)
Novi Sad Albertfalva Budapest
Kispest
Ferenc Liszt
Danube Csepel
Budafok Pesterzsébet Airport
Belgrade Budatétény Királyerdó 0 km 4
Belgrade Nikola Pančevo 0 miles 4
Tesla
Šabac
For keys to symbols see back flap
014-015_EW_Budapest.indd 15 05/09/2014 15:41

16  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Central Budapest

The centre of town includes Castle Hill (district I), parts of districts II and XI on the
western bank of the Danube and districts V, VI, VII, VIII and IX of Pest on the
river’s eastern bank, bounded by the city’s original tram line. VÁGÁN Y U.
The Roman numerals denote the official administrative
KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY
districts. For the purposes of this guide, the centre is ÁLL AT K E RTI KÖRÚT
divided into six areas. Each area has its own Széchenyi
fürdő
chapter containing a selection of sights that Szépművészeti Múzeum HE RM INA ÚT
convey its character and history. Sights on the Margit híd Museum of Fine Arts
outskirts of the city, and suggested day trips and Hősök tere
HUNGÁRIA KÖRÚT
MARGIT KÖRÚT ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RAKPART BALASSI BÁLINT U. VÁN KÖRÚT Nyugati pu. ANDRÁSSY ÚT Bajza utca DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
walks, are covered in separate chapters. SZENT IST Városliget
HONVÉD U.
AROUND
NORTH OF THE FŐ U. Országház BAJC Kodály Körönd VÁROSLIGETI FASOR AJTÓSI DÜRER SOR STEFÁNIA ÚT
Széll Kálmán CASTLE DISTRICT Parliament TERÉZ KÖRÚT Vörösmarty VÁROSLIGET
tér Batthyány AROUND utca D A M JANICH U . DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT.
VÉRMEZŐ ÚT Szt. Anna templom tér Kossuth tér N ÁD O R U . ALKOTMÁNY U. SY- ZSI State Opera Oktogon KIRÁLY U. D O B U. ROTTENBILLER U. ISTVÁN ÚT THÖKÖLY ÚT
D EM B I N SZKY U .
PARLIAMENT
St Anne’s Church
Operaház
ALKOTÁS U. Vérmező CASTLE Danube JÁNOS U. Szent István ANDRÁSSY ÚT. ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT W E S SE LÉ N Y I U . Keleti pu. THÖKÖLY ÚT
Bazilika
ARANY
St Stephen's
D OHÁNY U.
NEFELEJCS U.
Basilica
Arany J. u. LINSZKY ÚT.
DISTRICT
Déli pu.
Parliament ATTILA ÚT Széchenyi Bajcsy-Zs. út Opera C S Á N Y I U .
This magnificent building hosts the lánchíd Keleti pu.
Mátyás
sessions of the National Assembly. It is KRISZTINA KÖRÚT templom JÓZSEF ATTILA U. KIRÁLY U.
also the location of Hungary’s most Mátyas Deák tér DOB U. K LAUZ ÁL U . FIUMEI ÚT
important government offices, including Church W E S S E L ÉN Y I U . Blaha Lujza tér
ALAGÚT U. Royal Palace JANE HANING RAKPART tér CENTRAL RÁ KÓ C Z I ÚT NÉPSZÍNHÁZ U. II. János Pál pápa tér
those of the prime minister (see pp112–13). Budavári palota LÁNCHÍD U. Vörösmarty D OHÁN Y U .
KÁROLY KRT
Belvàrosi PEST Astoria J Ó Z S E F
SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT
Plèbánia-
GELLÉRT templom BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér
HILL AND Erzsébet Inner City KECS
Royal Palace MÉSZÁROS U. TABÁN ATTILA ÚT híd Parish Ferenciek KEMÉTI U. Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum
tere
The Royal Palace has been AVAR Ú T Church Hungarian National Museum
destroyed and pains takingly HEGYA LJA ÚT VÁ C I U . SZ ER B U . Kálvin tér
rebuilt many times. It was VÁMHÁZ
last meticulously recon­ SZI RTES U. KÖRÚT Ü LLŐI Ú T K Ö R Ú T
structed after World War II, S Á N C ÚT Gellért
to the form that the hegy Szabadság híd Fővám R Á D AY U .
tér
Habsburgs had given
it (see pp74–5). LÓNYAY U.
Szent Gellért tér KÖZRAKTAR U.
Gellért Szálló és Fürdő
S O MLÓ I ÚT
Gellért Hotel and
Baths Complex D a n u b e
BARTÓK BÉ LA ÚT
Móricz
Zsigmond
körtér
Liberation Monument
This statue of a woman hold ing
aloft the palm of victory was
created by the Hungarian
sculptor Zsigmond Kisfaludi Calvinist Church
Stróbl. Situated in a park on Situated close to the
Gellért Hill, the monument is Danube, this church is
visible from all over the city. It distinguished by its eye­
is now one of the symbols of catching, poly chromatic
Budapest (see p96). roof (see p104).
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PUT TING BUD APEST ON THE M AP  17






VÁ G Á N Y U .
ÁLL AT K E RTI KÖRÚT
KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY
Széchenyi
fürdő
Szépművészeti Múzeum H E R M I NA Ú T
Margit híd Museum of Fine Arts Hősök tere
MARGIT KÖRÚT ID. ANTALL SZENT IST HONVÉD U. VÁN KÖRÚT Nyugati pu. ANDRÁSSY ÚT Bajza utca DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT Városliget
HUNGÁRIA KÖRÚT
JÓZSEF RAKPART
BALASSI BÁLINT U.


AROUND
NORTH OF THE FŐ U. Országház BAJC Kodály Körönd VÁROSLIGETI FASOR AJTÓSI DÜRER SOR STEFÁNIA ÚT
Széll Kálmán CASTLE DISTRICT Parliament TERÉZ KÖRÚT Vörösmarty VÁROSLIGET
tér Batthyány AROUND utca D AMJA N I CH U . DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT.
VÉRMEZŐ ÚT Szt. Anna templom tér Kossuth tér N ÁD O R U . ALKOTMÁNY U. SY- ZSI State Opera Oktogon KIRÁLY U. D O B U. ROTTENBILLER U. ISTVÁN ÚT THÖKÖLY ÚT
D EM B I N SZ KY U .
PARLIAMENT
St Anne’s Church
Operaház
ANDRÁSSY ÚT.
ALKOTÁS U. Vérmező ATTILA ÚT CASTLE Danube JÁNOS U. Szent István Bajcsy-Zs. út Opera C S Á N Y I U . W E SSE LÉN YI U. Keleti pu. Keleti pu. THÖKÖLY ÚT
Bazilika
ARANY
St Stephen's
DO H Á N Y U .
NEFELEJCS U.
Basilica
Arany J. u. LINSZKY ÚT.
Déli pu.
DISTRICT
Széchenyi
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
Mátyás
templom lánchíd JÓZSEF ATTILA U. Deák tér KIRÁLY U. K LAUZ ÁL U.
Mátyas DOB U. FIUMEI ÚT
Church W E S S E L ÉN Y I U . Blaha Lujza tér
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
D O HÁ NY U.
ALAGÚT U. Budavári palota LÁNCHÍD U. JANE HANING RAKPART Vörösmarty KÁROLY KRT R Á KÓ C ZI ÚT NÉPSZÍNHÁZ U. II. János Pál pápa tér
tér
Royal Palace
CENTRAL
Belvàrosi PEST Astoria J Ó Z S E F
SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT
Plèbánia-
GELLÉRT templom BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér
HILL AND ATTILA ÚT Erzsébet Inner City KECS
híd
tere
TABÁN Church Ferenciek KEMÉTI U. Magyar Nemzeti Múzeum 0 metres 500
Parish
HEGYA LJA ÚT VÁ C I U . SZE R B U. VÁMHÁZ Kálvin tér 0 yards 500
Hungarian National Museum
MÉSZÁROS U.
AVAR Ú T
SZIRTES U. KÖRÚT ÜL LŐ I Ú T K Ö R Ú T
Gellért Szabadság Fővám R Á D AY U .
S Á N C ÚT
hegy híd tér Key
Major sight
Szent Gellért tér

LÓ NYAY U .
Gellért Szálló és Fürdő
S O MLÓI ÚT
Gellért Hotel and
KÖZRAKTAR U.
Baths Complex Danu b e
BARTÓK BÉ LA ÚT
Móricz
Zsigmond
körtér
Váci Street
This pedestrianized street
is a banking centre as well as
a shopping venue with
souvenir shops, cafés and
pubs (see p131).
For keys to symbols see back flap
016-017_EW_Budapest.indd 17 15/09/16 11:51 am

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INTRODUCING BUD APEST  19

HISTORY OF BUDAPEST



As early as the Palaeolithic era, there Liberation by the Christian armies resulted
were settlements in the area of Budapest: in the submission of the coun try as a
the narrowing of the Danube made the whole to the Habsburgs. They suppressed
crossing of the river easy at this particular all nationalist rebellions, but at the same
spot. In around AD 100, the Romans time took care of eco nomic development.
established the town of Aquincum here. Empress Maria Theresa and Archduke
Their rule lasted until the early 5th century Joseph, the emperor’s governor, made
AD, when the region fell to Attila the Hun. particular contributions to the modern­
It was subsequently ruled by the Goths, ization of both Buda and Pest. Yet, the slow
the Longobards and, for nearly 300 years, pace of reforms led to an uprising in 1848,
by the Avars. which was brutally crushed by Franz Joseph
The ancestors of modern Hungarians, I. Compromise in 1867 and the creation of
the Magyars, mig rated from the Urals and an Austro­Hungarian Empire stimulated
arrived in the Budapest region in 896. economic and cultural life once more. Soon
They were led by Prince Árpád, whose after, in 1873, Buda and Pest were united to
dynasty ruled until the 13th century. At create the city of Budapest.
the turn of the first millennium, St István, Following World War I, the monarchy
whose heathen name was Vajk, accepted fell and Hungary lost two thirds of its
Christianity for the Hungarians. As their territory. The desire to regain this
first crowned king, István I also laid the contributed to its support of Germany
basis of the modern Hungarian state. in World War II. However, Budapest was
It was Béla IV who, in 1247, after the taken by Soviet troops in 1945 and became
Mongol invasion, moved the capital to a territory within the Soviet sphere of
Buda. Much of the expansion of Buda took interest. Under the subsequent Communist
place under kings from the dynasty of the rule, the popular uprising of 1956 was
Angevins. Buda reached a zenith during ruthlessly suppressed by Soviet tanks but it
the reign of Mátyás Corvinus in the 15th initiated a crisis that shook the regime. Free
century, but further development was elections took place in 1990, resulting in the
hindered by the advancing Turks, who took victory of the democratic opposition, and
the region and ruled Buda for 150 years. the emergence of a new bourgeoisie.





















Dating from 1686, when the Turks were expelled, this map shows the fortified towns of Pest and Buda
Gyula Benczúr’s The Baptism of Vajk, displayed in the Hungarian National Gallery (see pp78–81)



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20  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

The City’s Rulers

In the 13th century, Béla IV built a castle in Buda and
designated the town as his new capital. Until that time, the
Árpád dynasty, the first family of Hungarian kings, had ruled
their domain from elsewhere. When, at the beginning of
the 14th century, there were no male heirs to the Árpád
throne, Hungary began a long period during which it was
mainly ruled by foreign kings including the French Angevins
and the Polish Jagiellonian dynasty. Under Mátyás Corvinus,
a great Hungarian king, Buda became one of Europe’s most
impressive cities. The Habsburgs, while suppressing national 1440–44 Władysław (Ulászló) I
in surrections, rebuilt Buda and Pest after the devastation of Poland
left by the Turks, adding fine pieces of architecture. 1637–57
Ferdinand III
1301–5
Wenceslas II of Bohemia 1541–66 Sultan
Süleyman, “the
Magnificient”
1385–6
Charles II
of Durazzo
1608–19
1386–95 1490–1516 Mátyás II
Maria Władysław
(crowned) (Ulászló) II
1272–90 Ladislas IV, 1526–64
“the Cuman” Ferdinand I
1437–9
1270–72 Albert of
István V 1307–42 Charles Austria
I Robert of Anjou
1200 1300 1400 1500 1600
Árpáds Angevins Jagiellonians Ottomans
1200 1300 1400 1500 1600
1445–57
1290–1301
András III Ladislaus
1382–5 Maria (László) V,
(un-crowned) “Posthumus”
1235–70
Béla IV
1458–90 Mátyás I,
“Corvinus”
1516–26
Louis II

1526–40 János I
1342–82 Szapolyai
Louis I (Lajos),
“the Great”
1564–76
Maximilian I
1576–1608
Rudolf I
1305–7
Otto Wittelsbach 1387–1437 Sigismund of
of Bavaria Luxembourg (initially as 1619–37
Maria’s consort) Ferdinand II




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THE HIST OR Y OF BUD APEST  21












2005–10
President
László Sólyom

1740–80
1637–57 Maria Theresa
Ferdinand III






1919–44 Admiral
Miklós Horthy
2010–12
1790–92 1848–9 Pál Schmitt
Leopold II Lajos Kossuth
1950–56
1918–19
President Secretary 2012
1705–11 1835–48 Mihály Károlyi Mátyás János Áder
Joseph I Ferdinand V Rákosi
1700 1800 1900 2000
Habsburgs Heads of State
1700 1800 1900 2000
1711–40 1916–18
Charles III 1792–1835 Franz I Charles IV
1946–8
1657–1705 President
Leopold I Zoltán Tildy 2000–05
President
1948–50 Ferenc Mádl
President
Árpád
Szakasits
1990–2000
President Árpád Gőncz











1957–89
1780–90 Joseph II Secretary János Kádár
1848–1916
Franz Joseph I




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22  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Early Settlers

Traces of settlements in the region by the Scythians and the
Celtic Eravi date from around 400 BC onwards. In the 1st
century AD, the Romans conquered the area as their province
of Pannonia and soon estab lished Aquincum (see pp166–7)
within the limits of the modern city. Little evi dence remains
of the next rulers, the Huns, who were followed by the Goths
and the Longobards. For nearly three centuries, starting in Extent of the City
around AD 600, the Avars were pre-eminent. In 896, the AD 300 Today
Magyars swept into the region and laid claim to what
would later become the Hungarian state.


Bronze Decorations
In the 2nd century AD, Roman carts
were often decorated with bronze
plaques. This example depicts
(from left): a satyr, Bacchus,
god of wine and Pan, god
of shepherds, under a
palm frond. It was found
in Somodor.







Workshops and
shops, known as
tabernae, were
enclosed and faced
onto the street.



The Sun God Mithras
The Persian god Mithras was
adopted by the Eravi and his Reconstruction of
cult survived into the Roman the Macellum
period. This bronze image dates
from 2nd–3rd centuries AD. This solidly built, square market
hall was the focus for trade in the
Roman town of Aquincum. At its
centre was a courtyard with stalls,
shops and workshops built around.

10,000 BC Remains
dating from the Silver Celtic coin dating c. 50 BC Celtic Eravi settlement c. AD 100 The
Palaeolithic era indicate from the 4th century BC on Gellért Hill (see pp92–3) town of
the existence of a 400 BC Aquincum is
settlement in the 800 BC Tombs with Iron Age Scythians in the established by
Remeda Cave in Buda urns at Pünkösdfürdő region the Romans
10,000 5000 1000 AD 1
5000 BC Stone Age AD 89 Romans establish a
settlements in Talxina and permanent army camp in
along the Danube modern-day Óbuda
Scythian ornamental AD 106 Aquincum becomes the capital of the
gold stag Roman province of Lower Pannonia




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THE HIST OR Y OF BUD APEST  23

Sacrificial Altar
This altar, decorated with Where to See the
rams’ heads, dates from Early City
the Neolithic era. It was
found in Szeged. Some quite considerable relics
of the Roman legions that
were once stationed here can
be seen in modern Óbuda. The
remains of an amphitheatre are
near an un usual underground
museum (see p174), while
magnificent mosaics adorn the
Shell Necklace Hercules Villa (p175). Further up
Dating from the Neolithic the Danube are the ruins of
era, some 5,000 years ago, Aquincum itself (pp166–7).
this necklace was found in Here visitors can wander
Kisköre. It provides evidence around the remains of vari ous
of the early migration of buildings and enter a museum.
tribes and their developed On the Pest side of the river,
trade activities. just to the north of the Inner
City Parish Church, there is a
Butchers’ stalls small, open­air sec tion of
faced onto the The rotunda housed remains from Contra
courtyard. the weights and Aquincum (p126).
measures.







This Roman amphitheatre,
one of two in Aquincum, indi­
cates the status of the town.









The mosaic of Hercules
and Diana, which survives
Silver Augur’s Rod at the Hercules Villa, was
This instrument was used by probably im ported from
Roman priests for divination Alexandria during the 2nd
purposes. This one was found or 3rd century AD.
near Komárom, the site of a
3rd­century Roman town.


c. 140–60 Two 409 The Huns, c. 600–896 The Avars
amphitheatres are built under Attila, rule the region
to serve Aquincum’s conquer Ornate earring from
growing population Aquincum
the 7th century AD
200 400 600 800
294 Contra Aquincum is
194 Aquincum founded on the eastern 896 Magyar
is promoted to bank of the Danube Carving of the Sun (Hungarian) tribes
the status of a God Mithras take over Pannonia
AD 106 Aquincum becomes the capital of the Roman colony 453 Collapse of the
Roman province of Lower Pannonia Huns’ domination




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24  Introduc I ng bud apest

The Árpád Dynasty

after a long journey beginning in the urals region in russia,
nomadic tribes of Magyars eventually settled in pannonia in
ad 896. Following a period of internal disputes, the tribes
made a blood-bonded alliance and chose one leader, Árpád.
While géza the grand prince of the Hungarians made contact
with missionaries, it was his son, István I, who accepted
chris tianity for his people. their first crowned king, István Extent of the City
organized the state according to the european, feudal model. 1300 Today
Initially under the Árpáds, esztergom (see p168) was the
country’s capital and later székesfehérvár. the development
of buda, pest and Óbuda began in the second half of the 12th
century, but was interrupted by the Mongol invasion of 1241.
Christ is depicted twice in
Figures of the middle section of the
the Apostles coat; in each case he is larger
than the surrounding figures.









Trinity of Hungarian Saints
The figures of three saints, King
István, his son Imre and Bishop
Gellért, are presented on this
colourful triptych in the Chapel
of St Imre in Mátyás Church
(see pp86–7).






King Géza I Coronation Mantle
Géza I (1074–77), the
father of Kálmán the This silk coronation coat was made in
Book-Lover, is 1031 for the Árpád kings. It has a pearl-
represented on an beaded collar and is embroi dered with
enamel plaque on the the figures of Christ, Mary, the Apostles
Crown of the Árpáds. and the Prophets.

c.900 Árpád settles on Csepel
Island (in modern-day
Budapest) and his brother
Kurszán in Óbuda
Coronation sword
850 900 950 1000 1050
973 Prince Géza 1046 Revolt by
invites missionaries pagans and the
into the region martyr’s death of
Sculpture of King István I 1001 Coronation of Bishop Gellért,
by Imre Varga István (Stephen) I thrown in a barrel
into the Danube




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the hist or y of bud apest  25


Crown of the Árpáds
This gold crown, ornamented with Where to See the
jewels, pearls and enamel, was created Medieval City
by joining two existing crowns. The
lower, Byzantine one was known as Only a few monuments
the “Greek crown” and the upper sur vive from the Middle Ages.
one as the “Latin crown”. Among the notable ones that
still remain are the crypts in
Mátyás Church (see pp86–7),
and the elevations and cellars
of some historic houses in the
Castle District (a few of which
are now converted into wine
bars). The reconstructed lower
chambers of the Royal Palace
Bone artifacts (pp74–5) and parts of its
Bone items such as fortifications also date from
shepherds’ staffs often had the medieval era.
carved handles.


Figures of the Prophets









King István’s coin This 19th-century copy
The first Hungarian coin, of the Romanesque Ják
the denar, was produced Church (see p147) reveals
soon after AD 1000, during how the Árpáds adopted
King István’s reign. European styles.









Gothic niches can be
Tympanum seen by the entrances to
This 11th-century church tympanum, from many houses in the Old
Gyulafehérvár in modern Romania, is in the Town (see pp82–3).
Hungarian National Gallery (see pp78–81).

1222 “Golden Bull” grants nobility 1247 Béla IV builds castle in Buda,
privileges including tax exemption which becomes capital of Hungary
1241
1188 Béla III moves his headquarters to Óbuda and sets Mongol 1267 Béla IV announces
out on Frederick Barbarossa’s crusade invasion new “Golden Bull”
1100 1150 1200 1250 1300
1244 The citizens of Pest
are granted civic rights 1301 Death of King
András III, last king of
Magyar belt buckle dating 1255 The citizens of the Árpád dynasty
from the 10th century Buda get civic rights





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26  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Gothic and Renaissance Eras

As a result of the efforts of the Angevins and Sigismund
of Luxembourg, the Gothic style reached Buda in the 14th
century. Buda’s palace and the summer palace in Visegrád
were both extensively rebuilt. Shortly after defeat by the
Turks at Varna, Hungary regained control of Belgrade and,
for a while at least, halted their invasion. Mátyás Corvinus,
the son of General János Hunyadi, the victor of Belgrade, Extent of the City
became king. Under Mátyás’s rule Hungary was turned into c. 1480 Today
the greatest monarchy of Middle Europe, and, as a result of
his marriage to Beatrice, a Neapolitan princess, the
Renaissance began to blossom in the country. Castellan Ferenc Sárffy
was the commander of
Győr Castle.
Illuminated letter from the
Philostratus Codex
This letter depicts the son of
King Mátyás I, Johannus
Corvinus, after he took Vienna. It
is housed in the National
Széchényi Library (see p76). Hungarian soldier













Royal Medallion
An unknown master from
Lombardy commemorated King
Mátyás I in this marble silhouette
dating from the 1480s.



Gold Seal Ulrik Czettrich, an officer of
This gold seal, which belonged to the royal household,
King Mátyás I, is indicative of the discovered the body of
affluence enjoyed by Hungary Louis II on the marshy bank
while he was on the throne. of the Csele river.

1355 Óbuda’s citizens 1370 Louis I enters 1385 Sigismund of Luxembourg
gain civic rights a politi cal union marries Maria
and becomes king
Ciborium dating from of Poland 1395 University established
the 14th century in Óbuda
1350 1375 1400 1425
1342 Louis I, “the Great”, becomes king 1387–1437 Rule of Sigismund of Luxembourg.
He enlarges the Royal Palace (see pp74–5)
1335 Treaty on co-operation and succession
signed by the kings of Hungary, Poland and 1382 After death of Louis I, one daughter, Maria,
Bohemia in Visegrád becomes queen of Hungary and another, Jadwiga,
queen of Poland




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THE HIST OR Y OF BUD APEST  27

Wine Cups
This pair of elaborate Where to See
Renaissance wine cups, the Gothic and
dating from the 16th
century, is designed to Renaissance City
fit together to form a The full bloom of the Gothic
covered receptacle. period took place in Hungary
in the 14th century. Mátyás
Church (see pp86–7) has
portals that survive from this
era. Renaissance art reached
Hungary thanks to Italian
masters brought by Mátyás’s
Crest of King Mátyás second wife, Beatrice. Both the
Corvinus Royal Palace (pp74–5) and the
Inscribed with the date 1470, summer palace at Visegrád
this crest com memorates (p168) were out standing
the building of significant pieces of Renaissance
addi tions to Mátyás Church architecture. Since the storm­
(see pp86–7), which was then ing of Buda by the Turks, only
renamed after the king. a few remnants of the former
splendour have remained.
Hungarian
King Louis II
knight






A chapel of the Royal Palace
from the period of Angevin
rule can be seen in the
basement of the Budapest
History Museum (see p76).









The Discovery of Louis II’s Body This portal of Mátyás
At the Battle of Mohács, on 29 August 1526, King Louis II lost his Church dates from the 14th
life together with thousands of Hungarian and Polish knights. century. In the 19th century,
The tragic scene of the finding of his body was recreated by a Neo­Gothic porch was built
Bertalan Székely in 1859. around it.

1440 Władysław III of Poland 1473 Chronica Ulászló I II
is Ulászló I of Hungary Hungarorum, the first 1514 Peasant (ruled 1490–1516)
book to be published revolt under
1456 Victory over
Turks at the Battle in Hungary, is printed György Dózsa
of Belgrade by András Hess
1450 1475 1500 1525 1550
1458–1490 Reign 1478 Law is passed 1526 Defeat by the Turks at the
of Mátyás Corvinus threatening landlords Battle of Mohács. King Louis II
who fail to maintain perishes during the fighting
1444 Ulászló I I is killed their buildings with
during the Battle of Varna dispossession Shield of soldier in the army
of Mátyás Corvinus




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28  introducing bud apest

The Turkish Occupation

after the battle of Mohács, the turks razed buda, but they
temporarily turned their attention elsewhere and did not
return to occupy it until 1541. When they then moved into
the royal palace (see pp74–5), buda became the capital of
ottoman Hungary, while eastern Hungary and transylvania
were feudal suzerains. the ottomans soon converted the
city’s churches, including Mátyás church, into mosques Extent of the City
and also built numerous turkish baths (see pp52–5). the 1630 Today
Habsburgs tried relentlessly to recover buda during this
period. their sieges destroyed the city progressively and
when, in 1686, the christian armies eventually recovered The Rudas and
it the scene was one of devastation. Turkish fortress Rác Baths
on Gellért Hill









The Liberation of Buda in 1686
After a bloody siege, the Christian army,
led by Prince Charles of Lorraine, entered
Buda and liberated it from the Turks. This
painting by Gyula Benczúr, dating from 1896,
depicts the event.










Ottoman
Tombstones
A few inscribed
Ottoman tomb­ Pest and Buda in 1617
stones, topped by Georgius Hurnagel’s copperplate print shows
distinctive turbans, the heavily-fortified towns of Pest and Buda in
remain to this day in a period when much of Hungary was firmly
Tabán (see p98). under Turkish rule.

1526–41 Turks conquer 1541–66 Reign of Sultan Süleyman I, 1602–3 Austrians, led by
Buda on three occasions
“the Magnificent”, who considered General Herman Russworm,
1529 János I Szapolyai, the himself the Turkish king of Hungary fail in attempts to storm
Hungarian monarch, pays Pest and Buda
homage to Sultan Süleyman I
1525 1545 1565 1585 1605
1530–40 János I 1594 Bálint Balassi, Hungary’s first
Szapolyai great lyric poet, is killed taking
rebuilds Buda part in a battle against the Turks
at Esztergom (see p168)
1542 The Austrians
lay siege to Buda Austrian siege of Buda




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the hist or y of Bud apest  29

Campaign Tent
This Turkish leader’s tent, Where to See the
decorated with appliqué work, Turkish City
was used during the siege
of Vienna in 1683. Almost all Turkish buildings
were razed by their succes sors,
the Habsburgs, during or
after the recapture of the city.
Churches which the Turks
had used as mosques were
converted back again,
although some mihrabs,
the niches pointing towards
Mecca, were left. These can be
seen in the Inner City Parish
Church (see pp128–9) and in
the Capuchin Church (p104).
Among the few won derful
Mátyás Church (see pp86–7)
was converted into a mosque. examples of classical Ottoman
architecture to survive are the
Rudas, Rácz (p99) and Király
Baths, and the Tomb of Gül
Baba, a Turkish dervish (p105).






Ottoman Coat
This 16th-century The Király Baths, built in
leather coat was the 16th century by Arshlan
supposedly taken Pasha, remain an impressive
from the battlefield Ottoman monument
of Mohács (see p27). (see p105).










Ottoman Jug
Dating from the 17th century, this The Rudas Baths, dating
copper vessel was found in Buda from 1550, have an original
during the reconstruction of the Turkish dome covering their
Royal Palace (see pp74–5). central chamber (see p97).

1634 György I Rákóczi, 1684 Start of ultimately Viennese sword
prince of Transylvania, joins successful siege of Buda dating from the
Ottoman an anti-Habsburg alliance by the Austrians 17th century
tablet with with France and Sweden
calligraphy
1625 1645 1665 1685
1648 Death of
1624 Signing György I Rákóczi 1686 Christian troops
of the Treaty enter Buda. The end of
of Vienna Gold five-ducat coin from Turkish rule in Hungary
1603, showing the prince
of Transylvania’s crest




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30  introducing bud apest

Habsburg Rule

in order to gain control of Hungary, the Habsburgs
encouraged foreign settlers, particularly germans, to move
into the country. this policy led to a national uprising in
1703–11, led by the prince of transylvania, Ferenc ii rákóczi.
only in the second half of the 18th cen tury, particularly under
empress Maria theresa, did the reconstruction of buda,
Óbuda and pest begin in earnest. this was accompanied Extent of the City
by economic development and a further increase in the 1770 Today
country’s population. the university at nagyszombat
(now trnava in the slovak republic) moved to buda in 1777,
and subsequently to pest in 1784, and was an important Maria Theresa holds
factor in their expansion. the infant Joseph, the
successor to her throne.













The Return of the Crown to Buda (1790)
A vast ceremonial procession of commis-
sioners marked the arrival in Hungary of royal
insignias from Vienna, a sign of peace
between the two countries.







Ferenc II Rákóczi
This fine portrait by Ádám “Vitam et Sanguinem”
Mányoki depicts Ferenc
II Rákóczi, the leader of In 1741, the Hungarian states swore
the national uprising of on “life and blood” their loyalty to the
1703–11 and a figure Habsburg Empress Maria Theresa. This
much loved by the copperplate print by Joseph Szentpétery
Hungarian people. depicts the scene of the oath-taking.

1687 Under Austrian pressure, 1702 The Jesuits open a college and theological seminary 1745–71 Building of the
the Hungarian parliament gives Habsburg Royal Palace
up its right to elect a king and 1703 The Prince of Transylvania, Ferenc II 1729 The start of
accedes to the inheritance of the Rákóczi, leads a rebellion by the the reconstruction
throne by the Habsburgs Hungarians against the Habsburgs of Pest’s suburbs
1690 1705 1720 1735
1689 Bubonic plague devastates 1711 Suppression of 1724 The population of
the population of Buda and Pest Rákóczi’s rebellion; a Buda and Pest reaches
second bubonic plague 12,000 people
1705 First Hungarian news- decimates the city
paper, Mercurius Hungaricus, 1723 Great Fire of Buda 1746–57 Construction of the Zichy
is printed in Latin Palace in Óbuda (see p175)




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the hist or y of bud apest  31


Triple-jug of the Andrássy family
These silver jugs are joined by a miniature Where to See the
of the castle belonging to the Andrássy Habsburg City
family, at what is now Krásna Hôrka
in the Slovak Republic. Having taken Buda and Pest
from the Turks in the late 17th
century, the Habsburgs set
about rebuilding them in
the 18th century, mainly
in the Baroque style. Famous
buildings from this era
in clude the Municipal Council
Offices, St Anne’s Church
(see pp106–7), St Elizabeth’s
Hungarian aristocrats swear Church (p105) and the
on their lives to pro tect Maria University Church (p143).
Theresa’s throne.






Dress (c. 1750)
This dress, typical of St Anne’s Church, which was
Hungarian style with built between 1740–1805,
its corset which was astonishes visitors with its
tightened by golden cords, magnificent Baroque interior.
was worn by a lady from
the noble Majtényi family.















Ferenc II Rákóczi’s Chair The Municipal Council
Richly upholstered, this Offices in the heart of Pest
graceful 18th-century chair have a portico decorated with
from Regéc Castle is typical allegori cal figures by Johann
of the style of the period. Christoph Mader (see p131).

1745–71 Building of the The magnificent Habsburg 1780 Magyar Hírmondó, the first A hussar,
Habsburg Royal Palace Royal Palace Hungarian language newspaper, or soldier
1778 Roman remains begins printing
are discovered
in Óbuda
1750 1765 1780 1795
1752 A regular postal 1766 A floating bridge 1792 Convoca tion of
service operates between links Buda and Pest parliament and the
Buda and Vienna coro nation of Franz I
1777 University moves from
1746–57 Construction of the Zichy Nagyszombat to Buda; later 1784 Establishment of Ferenc
Palace in Óbuda (see p175) relocates to Pest Goldberger’s textile factory in Óbuda




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32  Introduc I ng bud apest

National Revival and the
“Springtime of Revolutions”

the dynamic economic development of buda and pest began
at the start of the 19th century. pest, in particular, benefited
from favourable circumstances for the grain trade and
became, in the napoleonic Wars, an important centre for
the Habsburg mon archy. a national revival and rekindling Extent of the City
of cultural life took place after the napoleonic Wars. the 1848 Today
Hungarian national Museum and many other public and
private buildings were built at this time. Yet, Hungarian
reformers were hampered by the Viennese royal court and
an uprising erupted in the spring of 1848. this re bellion was Count György Andrássy,
suppressed by the Habsburgs, with the help of the russian offered 10,000 forints towards
army, and a period of absolutism followed. the building of the Hungarian
Academy of Sciences.











The Advance of the Hussars
In this watercolour, painted in 1850,
Mór Than depicts fighting in the Battle
of Tápióbicske of 1849. The Hungarian
side was led by a Polish general,
Henryk Dembiński.


The Founding of the Academy
In 1825, István Széchenyi put up 60,000
forints towards the building of Hungarian
Academy of Sciences (see p118), a move
The Great Flood which led to a national effort to collect
This bas-relief, made funds for it. Barnabás Holló created this
by Barnabás Holló in bas-relief depicting the major donors.
1905, shows a heroic
rescue by Count Miklós
Wesselényi during the
Great Flood of 1838.

1802 Count Ferenc Széchényi donates 1809 Royal court moves from Vienna to 1817 First steamboat sails
collections which will form the basis for Buda as Napoleon advances. Despite his on Danube in the environs
National Széchényi Library (see p76) and offer of Hungarian independence, the of Buda and Pest
Hungarian National Museum (see pp134–7) Hungarians back the Habsburgs

1800 1805 1810 1815 1820
1808 Establishment of the
Embellishment Commission, led by
Governor Archduke Joseph
Boats on
the Danube




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The h is T or y of bud apes T  33


Lajos Batthyány
Eternal Flame Where to See the
This lamp, de signed Neo-Classical City
by Móric Pogány, has
burnt since 1926 In the early 19th century, the
in Liberty Square Embellishment Commission,
(see p114). It was there set up by Archduke Joseph
that the Austrians shot and led by architect József
Lajos Batthyány, the first Hild, prepared a plan for the
prime minister of development of Pest in which
liberated Hungary, its centre was redesigned on a
on 6 October 1849. National Song pattern of concentric streets.
The 1848 uprising was Monumental Neo-Classical
sparked on 15 March buildings were built here and
when Sándor Petőfi to this day they form the heart
recited his poem, and the character of this area.
Nemzeti Dal Structures to look for in par-
(National Song), ticular include the Hungarian
Count István Széchenyi, an out side the Hungarian National Museum, the Chain
energetic force for change, is National Museum. Bridge and several houses
regarded as the one of the located on József Nádor
greatest Hungarians. Square (see p130).
György
Károlyi








The Hungarian National
Museum, which was built
in 1837, is among Hungary’s
finest examples of Neo-
Classical architecture
(see pp134–5).








The Chain Bridge, the first
Buda and Pest in 1838 permanent bridge over the
Seen here in the year before the construction of the Chain Bridge, Danube, was built by Adam
the Danube was an important means of transport. Clark in 1839–49 (see p67).

1825–48 Period of major Poet Sándor Petőfi (1823–49) 15 March 1848
projects: establishment of Uprising begins
the Hungarian Academy of 1836 Language Act:
Sciences, Hungarian National Hungarian becomes an 1847 Death of Archduke
Museum and National Theatre official language Joseph, emperor’s governor
1825 1830 1835 1840 1845
1830 István Széchenyi publishes his book, 1846 First railway line in the
On Credit. It is seen as the mani festo for the city, linking Pest and Vác
fight for modern Hungary
1849 After stout resistance, the Russian
The Great 1838 Catastrophic Great Flood results in army, under the command of General
Flood destruction of half of Pest’s buildings Ivan Paskevich, suppresses uprising




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34  introducing bud apest

Compromise and the
Unification of Budapest

after suffering a defeat by prussia in 1866, the Habsburgs
realized the necessity of reaching an agreement with Hungary
and the compromise brokered in 1867 proved to be of
tremendous importance for the future of buda, Óbuda and
pest, as it created political stability and prosperity and marked Extent of the City
the beginning of rapid industrialization in the country. the 1873 Today
option of uniting the three cities had been considered since
the opening of the chain bridge in 1849. it eventually came
about in 1873 and budapest soon found itself among europe’s
fastest growing metropolises. in 1896, Városliget was the focal
point for Hungary’s Millennium celebrations (see p146). The Citadel (see p96) on
Gellért Hill
Castle District
Hungarian Wine Cup
This 19th-century wine cup is
embellished with the Hungarian
crest, which incorporates the
Crown of the Árpáds (see p25).







Today’s Boráros tér, where
goods were once traded.



Ferenc Deák (1803–76)
A great statesman, Deák
was an advo cate of
moderate reforms. He
argued persuasively in
favour of accepting the
Compromise reached with
the Habsburgs in 1867.
Decorative Pipe (1896)
Made in the year of Hungary’s
Millennium Celebrations, this
pipe of “heavenly peace” includes
figures of the Árpád kings and Emperor
Franz Joseph.

1854 Martial 1857 Tunnel built by 1875 Opening of the Franz
law ends five Adam Clark under Liszt Academy of Music
years after Castle Hill opened (see p133), with the
1848–9 Entrance to composer as its principal
uprising the Tunnel
1850 1860 1870 1880
1859 Synagogue on 1873 The unification of Buda,
Dohány utca (see p138) Óbuda and Pest as one city, with
completed a total of 300,000 inhabitants
1867 Compromise with Austria, giving Hungary indepen-
dence in its internal affairs. Creation of the Dual Monarchy;
Emperor Franz Joseph accepts the Hungarian crown




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the hist or y of bud apest  35


Monument to Hungarian Soldiers
Killed in World War I Where to See the
This bas-relief, by János Istók, Historicist City
commemorates the dead of World
War I, in which Hungary fought on Historicism had a profound
the German side. It is located next influence on the form of the
to the main entrance to the Servite rapidly developing metropolis
Church (see p132). at this time. A wonderful
example of the style is the
Hungarian Academy of
Sciences. Among others are
Parliament (see pp112–13), St
Stephen’s Basilica (pp120–21),
the Museum of Fine Arts
(pp150–51), the New York
“Handcuff” Bracelet
Following the defeat of the Palace (p133) and many of the
national uprising of 1848–9, buildings that stand on
Hungarians sought to symbolize Andrássy Street (p148).
their oppression even in
pieces of jewellery.







The Hungarian Academy of
Sciences is housed in this fine
Neo-Renaissance palace built
between 1862–5 (see p118).











Trading on the Pest Embankment
Completed in 1887, this painting by Antal Ligeti shows the St Stephen’s Basilica was built
Pest embankment at a time when the city was booming. over a period of 60 years by
Manufactured goods and grain were sent along the three architects. It was finished
Danube for sale in Germany and the Balkans. in 1905 (see pp120–21).



1894 Body of Lajos Kossuth Old Upper House Hall in Parliament
(see p110) is returned from Turin
1916 Franz Joseph dies
1904 Grand opening of and Charles IV becomes
Parliament (see pp112–13) king of Hungary
1890 1900 1910 1920
1896 First metro 1909 Airport opened in
line and several Rákos, now Kőbánya 1914 Hungary 1918 Abdication
museums opened enters World of Charles IV marks
1900 With a population of War I on the end of the Austro-
1897 Opening of the Great 773,000, Budapest is Europe’s German side Hungarian Empire
Market Hall (see p211) fastest growing city




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36  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Modern Budapest

Hungary paid a high price for its one-state union with Austria
and its later alliance with Nazi Germany. Following defeat in
both World Wars, the country had lost a large portion of its
territory. As a result of the Yalta Agreement of 1945, it then
found itself within the Soviet-controlled zone of Europe.
Stalinism took on a particularly ruthless form here and led to
the 1956 Uprising, which was brutally put down by Soviet tanks 1970 Opening of a new metro line
on the streets of Budapest. Efforts towards reform, undertaken
by János Kádár, brought some changes but political opposition 1960–66 Rebuilding
of Castle District
was not tolerated. In 1989, the Communists were ousted and (see pp72–89), including
Hungary at last regained control of its own affairs. Royal Palace, and the
Danube bridges



1919 Communists 1941 Hungary enters 1945 After a siege lasting six weeks,
take over government World War II on the Soviet army takes Budapest
and declare the Germany’s side
Hungarian Soviet 1946 Proclamation of Republic
Republic of Hungary. Smallholders’ Party
1939 Hungary
neutral at wins election
beginning of
World War II.
Accepts re fugees 1949 Stalinist terror
after capitulation prevails. Cardinal
of Poland Mindszenty (see p115)
goes on trial. László Rajk,
1928 Budapest 1937 Sixth and last secret police chief, sen-
is a free port on visit of author tenced to death by
Danube Thomas Mann Moscow loyalists
1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970
1920 1930 1940 1950 1960 1970
1933–6 Tabán (see p98) 1953 The
levelled (it was turned national
into a park in the 1960s) 1938 Eucharistic football team
World Congress beats England
1925 Radio 6–3 at
Budapest Wembley
broadcasts
its first 1958 The leader of the
programme 1956 Uprising, Prime
Minister Imre Nagy,
1945–1 August 1946 Banknotes is executed
valued at one billion pengő are 1948 Mátyás Rákosi leads
printed during rampant inflation. Hungarian Workers’ Party,
1919 Admiral Miklós Horthy There is not enough room for all run by Communists
enters Budapest; many killed the zeros on the notes. As part
in the period of “White Terror”. of monetary reform, the new 1964 The Elizabeth Bridge
Horthy becomes regent currency, Forint was introduced (see p67) reopens, having
been totally rebuilt
1944 Efforts to withdraw from World
War II end with German troops enter-
1918 Democratic revolution; ing the country. A ghetto is established
Hungary declared a republic. in Budapest and the extermination of
Mihály Károlyi selected as the Hungarian Jews begins 1947 After
country’s first president falsification of
election results,
Communists control
the whole country 1968 Intro duction of new
economic system popularly
known as “goulash-Communism”



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THE HIST OR Y OF BUD APEST  37












1970 Opening of a new metro line
1990 Hungarian coat of
arms, adopted on
October 1989 Republic 3 July 1990
of Hungary is
proclaimed once more. 1991 Warsaw Pact is dissolved.
The national emblem Russian army leaves Hungary
is changed
1994 Election won by the
Hungarian Socialist Party
2010 Fidesz party wins
1998 Election won landslide majority in
by the centre-right Fidesz elections. Viktor Orbán
party, first premiership of is elected prime minister
Viktor Orbán for his second term
2002 Election
won by the 2012 New Constitution
1981 Director adopted. The official
István Szabó Hungarian name of the country
receives an Oscar Socialist Party. is shortened to
for his film Mephisto Imre Kertész Magyarország (Hungary)
receives the
Nobel prize for
Literature 2014 Fidesz is re-elected
February 1989 with a landslide majority
Round-table talks 2007 Hungary
between opposition joins the
parties and ruling Schengen
socialist government
open-borders
agreement
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1970 1980 1990 2000 2010 2020
1993 Pope John Paul II
1987 UNESCO places the historic visits Hungary
Castle District and the Banks of
the Danube on its list of world
heritage sights
2005 László Sólyom becomes
president of Hungary
June 1989 Ceremonial funeral for
Imre Nagy and rehabilitation for
other leaders of 1956 Uprising 2004 Hungary
becomes a
September 1989 member of
Hungary opens its the EU
borders to allow refu-
gees to flee from East
Germany to the West
1990 The Democratic Hungarian
Forum wins free elections. József
Antall becomes the first prime
minister to be elected in a
democratic process; Árpád Göncz
is elected president
1991 Václav Havel, József Antall and Lech Walesa sign
an agreement in Visegrád (see p168) between
Czechoslovakia, Hungary and Poland




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introducing bud apest  39

BUDAPEST AT A GLANCE

often described as the “Little paris of Middle the Area by Area section of the book.
europe”, budapest is famous not only for the However, to help you make the most of your
monuments reflecting its own 1,000-year-old stay, the following 20 pages are a guide to
culture, but also for the relics of others who the best budapest has to offer. Museums and
settled here. remains from both roman galleries, churches and synagogues, palaces
occuption, and, much later, rule by the turks and historic buildings, baths and pools are
can still be seen in the city. after turkish rule, presented, together with the influence of
union with austria had a partic ular influence secession in the city. each sight is cross-
on the city’s form and style. descriptions of referenced to its main entry. below are the
nearly 150 places of interest can be found in sights not to be missed.

Budapest’s Top Ten Sights










Gellért Monument Gellért Baths
See p97. See pp94–5.



Váci Street
See p131.




Parliament
See pp112–13.









National Museum Hungarian State Opera Margaret Island
See pp134–7. See pp122–3. See pp176–7.










Danube and Chain Bridge Mátyás Church National Gallery
See p66. See pp86–7. See pp78–81.
Statues of the guardians in the walls of Buda



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40  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Budapest’s Best: Museums and Galleries

Unlike many other European cities – such as Paris
with the Louvre and Madrid with the Prado – Budapest
does not have a museum founded from a royal treasury
because Hungary was for so long ruled by foreign
powers. In the early 19th century, however, the modern
aristocracy, backed by an increasingly affluent middle
class, began to take an interest in pre serving historic
objects for the nation. Today, there are over 60 museums
and galleries in Budapest, ranging from those with Museum of Military History
collections of international significance to others of This museum has interesting
much more local interest. For more information on displays illustrating the history
museums and galleries see pages 42–3. of Hungarian weaponry. HUNGÁR IA K ÖR Ú T
KÓS KÁROLY
Hungarian National SÉTÁNY
Gallery
The Hungarian art
displayed here dates
Margit híd
from the Middle Ages
right through to the SZENT ISTVÁN KRT A NDRÁSS Y Ú T
20th century. The Yawning
Apprentice (1868), by the
great Mihály Munkácsy, MAR GI T KÖ RÚT AROUND D ÓZ S A GY ÖR GY Ú T
is among the highlights NORTH OF THE PARLIAMENT T H ÖKÖ LY Ú T
of the collection. T ERÉ Z KÖ RÚT
CASTLE DISTRICT
AROUND
BÁTHORY U. B A J CS Y- Z SI LI N SZKY ÚT VÁROSLIGET
CASTLE F Ő U . D
a
DISTRICT n ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT ROT TE NB ILLER U. TH Ö K ÖLY ÚT
u
JÓZSEF
e
Budapest History Museum b ATTILA U.
This Gothic work is one of the ATTI LA Ú T Széchenyi CENTRAL R ÁKÓC ZI Ú T
medieval treasures of the KRISZTINA KÖRÚT lánchíd PEST
Budapest History Museum.
The oldest ex hibits are R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T
located in the original,
lower-floor rooms of the JANE HANING R. J Ó Z S EF KÖ R ÚT
Renais sance Royal Palace. MÚZEUM KRT
Erzsébet
híd
HEGYALJA ÚT B A R OSS U .
VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
GELLÉRT HILL
AND TABÁN
BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT




Museum of Ethnography
Among the exhibits at this
Semmelweis Museum of Medical History museum illustrating the material
Doctor Ignác Semmelweis, famous for his culture of the Hungarians, including
discovery of how to prevent puerperal fever, textiles, ceramics, artifacts and
was born in 1818 in the house where the furniture, is this jug, dating from 1864,
museum is now situated. made by György Mantl.




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BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  41

Museum of Fine Arts
The wonderful Portrait of
a Man (c.1565), by Paolo
Veronese, is one of many
Old Masters in this splendid
collection of paintings
and sculpture.



Jewish Museum
Located in several
rooms beside the
Great Synagogue, this
museum covers the
Holocaust in this
country and displays
KÓS KÁROLY religious objects.
SÉTÁNY
HUNGÁR IA K ÖR Ú T

Margit híd
A N DRÁ SS Y Ú T
SZENT ISTVÁN KRT
MAR GI T KÖ RÚT PARLIAMENT D ÓZ S A GY ÖRGY Ú T
AROUND
NORTH OF THE
CASTLE DISTRICT T ERÉ Z KÖ RÚT T H ÖKÖ LY Ú T
AROUND
BÁTHORY U. B A J CS Y- Z SI LI N SZKY ÚT VÁROSLIGET
CASTLE F Ő U . D
a
DISTRICT n ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT R O T T E N B I L LE R U. TH ÖK ÖLY ÚT
u
b
JÓZSEF
e
ATTILA U. CENTRAL
Széchenyi PEST RÁKÓCZI ÚT
lánchíd
ATTI LA Ú T
RÁKÓCZI Ú T Hungarian National
KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
Museum
Beautiful frescoes by Károly
Lotz and Mór Than decorate
the elegant staircase of
J Ó Z S EF KÖ R ÚT
JANE HANING R.
Erzsébet Hungary’s oldest museum.
MÚZEUM KRT
híd
HEGYALJA ÚT B A R OSS U .
VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
GELLÉRT HILL 0 metres 800
AND TABÁN
0 yards 800
BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT


Museum of Applied Arts
Precious ceramics, porcelain and
furnishings are housed in a building
that is itself a work of art, surmounted
by a magni ficent, oriental-style dome.




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42  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Exploring the Museums and Galleries
European Paintings
Most of the city’s museums and galleries are located in and Sculpture
historic buildings. These include the spacious chambers of Masterpieces by the finest
the restored Royal Palace, which in the 1970s and 1980s European artists, from medieval
were designated as the premises of several museums, times to the modern day, are
also divided between two
including the Hungarian National Gallery. Many museums museums in Budapest.
– including the Hungarian National Museum and Budapest The Museum of Fine Arts
History Museum – also stage temporary exhi bitions that has a magnificent collection of
are popular with both locals and tourists. Italian paintings, dating from the
14th century up to the Baroque
period, by mas ters such as
Titian, Antonio da Correggio,
Paolo Veronese, Giambattista
Tiepolo and Jacopo Tintoretto.
However, it is the Esterházy
Madonna (1508) by Raphael,
that is the jewel of the Italian
collection. Equally splendid is the
exhi bition of Spanish paintings,
which is one of the largest in the
world. Works by Goya in clude
The Water Carrier (c.1810). There
are seven can vases by El Greco
and others by Francisco de
Zurbarán and Bartolomé Esteban
Murillo. Other galleries within
the museum represent artists
of the Netherlands and Germany,
as well as British, French and
Flemish masters. The museum
also owns more than 100,000
drawings and engravings by
the Old Masters, while its
Sculpture of Imre Varga at the gallery named after him (see p175) modern art collection includes
some notable works.
Hungarian National Gallery. Modern European paintings
Hungarian Paintings In the 19th century, Hungarian can also be viewed in the
and Sculpture
painting developed and Ludwig Museum of Contem­
There are two important venues flourished, at the same time porary Art. All the canvases
that should be on the itinerary reflecting all the major belong to the Peter Ludwig
of anyone interested in viewing international modern art Foundation of Germany. Highly
the finest examples of movements. The Hungarian prized works here include two
Hungarian art. style can be seen particularly in paintings by Pablo Picasso,
At the Hungarian National the works of Pál Szinyei­Merse, Mother and Child and Musketeer.
Gallery, seven chronological Mihály Munkácsy and László
sections present paintings and Paál. For sculpture, meanwhile,
sculpture dating from the the main names to look out for
Middle Ages up until modern are István Ferenczy, Zsigmond
times. The sequence begins in Kisfaludi Stróbl and Imre Varga.
the Lapidarium, where frag­ It is portraits, rather than
ments of recovered medieval paintings and sculpture, that
stone sculptures from the are shown at the Hungarian
castles of the first Hungarian National Museum. These
kings are exhibited. provide a fascinating insight
As a rule, very few examples into the country’s history.
of Gothic and Renaissance art The Vasarely Museum has
survive in Budapest because of a collection of 300 works by
the pillage inflicted by the Turks Hungarian­born artist Victor
during their rule. How ever, a Vasarely. He moved to Paris in
fine collection of altar retables 1930 and became famous as
from the 15th and 16th one of the main exponents of Pablo Picasso’s Musketeer (1967), in the
centuries are on display in the the Op Art movement. Ludwig Collection




042-043_EW_Budapest.indd 42 15/09/16 10:32 am

BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  43


scores and photographs. A Art Nouveau (see pp56–9) is
more general view of Hungarian striking. The museum’s perman­
music is on offer at the Museum ent collection was founded in
of Musical History, located 1872. Major exhibitions tend to
in a Baroque palace on Mihály change each year, while smaller
Táncsics Street. Displays national and foreign displays
feature the development of change monthly.
instruments and music in the
18th and 19th centuries; a
special section is dedicated Specialist Museums
to Béla Bartók. The Semmelweis Museum of
Medical History explores the
work of a doctor called Ignác
Ethnography and Semmelweis, who discovered
Oriental Crafts how to prevent puerperal fever.
Lavish folk costumes, as well as This affliction had previously
The Jewish Museum, located many other everyday items that been a serious threat for women
beside the Great Synagogue belonged to the people of the who had recently given birth.
region, can be viewed in the The Golden Eagle Pharmacy
beautiful interiors of the Museum Museum is situated in a building
History of Ethnography. Ethnic items that first opened as a pharmacy
The history of Budapest, and from North and South America, in 1681. Many original fixtures
that of Hungary as a whole, is Africa, Asia and Australia can also are intact and pharmaceutical
illustrated in several museums. be seen here. exhibits are displayed.
Relics from the Roman era can Chinese and Japanese artworks, Railway enthusiasts of all ages
be found at the Aquincum porcelain, ceramics and textiles will appreciate the Transport
Museum and at a handful of are displayed alongside pieces Museum on Hermina Street,
museums, including the Roman from Indonesia, India and Tibet with its enormous collection
Baths Museum, in Óbuda. at the Ferenc Hopp Museum of model trains and exhibits on
The most important national of Asiatic Arts (run by the the evolution of air, sea, road
historic treasures are housed Museum of Fine Arts) and the and rail transport.
in the Hungarian National Ráth György Museum (run
Museum. The Coronation by the Museum of Applied
Mantle, dating back to the Arts). The latter is housed in an Where to Find the
11th century, is included in Art Nouveau building and is Museums and
this collection. also home to a workshop Galleries
Medieval seals and Gothic for art conservation.
statuary are among the exhi bits Aquincum Museum pp166–7
at Budapest History Museum. Budapest History Museum p76
At the Museum of Military Decorative Arts Franz Liszt Museum p148
History, displays chart various Housed in an extraordinary Golden Eagle Pharmacy
Hungarian strug gles for building designed by Ödön Museum p84
liberty, including the 1956 Lechner (see p58), the Museum House of Terror Museum p148
Uprising (see p36). of Applied Arts gives an Hungarian National
The Jewish Museum has a impressive overview of the Gallery pp78–81
room covering the Holocaust, development of crafts from the Hungarian National Museum
as well as many ritual objects. Middle Ages onwards. Meissen pp134–7
The collection of the Lutheran porcelain is exhibited alongside Jewish Museum p138
Museum, situated next to the oriental carpets and Hungarian Ludwig Museum of Contemporary
Lutheran Church, includes a pieces. The display relating to Art (Müpa Budapest) p160
copy of Martin Luther’s will. Lutheran Museum p132
Müpa Budapest p160
Museum of Applied Arts pp140–41
Music
Museum of Ethnography p114
Two of the museums featured Museum of Fine Arts pp150–51
in this book, the Franz Liszt Museum of Military History p89
Museum and the Zoltán Kodály Museum of Musical History p85
Museum, are dedicated to Ráth György Museum p149
internationally renowned Semmelweis Museum of
composers. In each case, Medical History p99
the setting is the apartment Transport Museum p155
where the composer lived and Vasarely Museum p175
worked, and on display are the Stained-glass window at the Museum of Zoltán Kodály Museum p148
instruments they played, musical Applied Arts




042-043_EW_Budapest.indd 43 15/09/16 10:32 am

44  introducing bud apest

Budapest’s Best: Churches and Synagogues

there are very few medieval and Capuchin Church
renaissance churches still standing in Two Turkish windows
budapest. this is mainly due to the fact remain from the time
that the turks, during their 150-year rule, when this church was
turned all churches into mosques, which used as a mosque,
alongside fragments
were later destroyed or converted by of its medieval walls.
the christians. the reconstruction of
old churches and the building of new
ones started in the late 17th century,
hence the prevalence of baroque and
neo-classical styles.
KÓS KÁROLY
SÉTÁNY

St Anne’s Church Margit híd HUNGÁR IA K ÖR Ú T
Built in the mid-18th century,
this is one of the most ISTVÁN KRT
SZENT
beautiful Baroque A NDRÁSS Y Ú T
churches in the city. The D ÓZ S A GY ÖR GY Ú T
NORTH OF
joined figures of St Anne MAR GI T KÖ RÚT T ER ÉZ KRT
and Mary decorate the THE CASTLE T H ÖKÖ LY Ú T
centre of its façade. DISTRICT AROUND PARLIAMENT
AROUND
VÁROSLIGET
CASTLE a AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T
D
F Ő U .
DISTRICT n ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT ROT TE NB ILLER U. TH Ö K ÖLY ÚT
u
b
e
Széchenyi CENTRAL R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T
lánchíd
PEST
AT TI LA ÚT
RÁ K ÓCZI ÚT
PETŐFI S. U.
JANE HANING R.
K R ISZ T IN A KÖRÚ T
Erzsébet KÁROLYI M. U. JÓ ZSEF KÖ R Ú T
HEGYALJA ÚT híd
VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
Mátyás Church GELLÉRT HILL
Romanesque and Gothic AND TABÁN
styles are both evident in
the coro nation church of
the Hungarian kings. The
Neo-Gothic altar dates
from the 19th century.
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
Cave Church
In the rocky interior of St
Ivan’s Cave, on the south
side of Gellért Hill, the
priests of the Pauline order
established a church in 1926.
It was designed to imitate the 0 metres 800
holy grotto at Lourdes.
0 yards 800






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bud apest a t a glance  45







St Stephen’s Basilica
A bas-relief by Leó Feszler, representing the Virgin
Mary surrounded by Hungarian saints, decorates
the main tympanum of St Stephen’s Basilica. This
imposing church was built between 1851–1905.

Lutheran Church
This Neo-Classical church was
completed by Mihály Pollack in
1808. The impressive façade
KÓS KÁROLY was added half a century
SÉTÁNY
later by József Hild.
Margit híd SZENT HUNGÁR IA K ÖR Ú T

MAR GI T KÖ RÚT ISTVÁN KRT T ER ÉZ KRT A N DRÁ SS Y Ú T D ÓZ S A GY ÖRGY Ú T
NORTH OF
THE CASTLE
DISTRICT AROUND PARLIAMENT T H ÖKÖ LY Ú T
AROUND
VÁROSLIGET
D
CASTLE a AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T
F Ő U .
DISTRICT n ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT R O T TENB I L LE R U . TH ÖK ÖLY ÚT
u
b
e
Széchenyi CENTRAL R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T
lánchíd
PEST
AT TI LA ÚT
R ÁK Ó C ZI ÚT Great Synagogue
Two Moorish-style
PETŐFI S. U.
minarets, each topped by
JANE HANING R.
K R ISZ T IN A KÖRÚ T
an onion-shaped dome,
dominate the
Erzsébet exterior of the largest
KÁROLYI M. U.
JÓ ZSEF KÖ R Ú T
HEGYALJA ÚT híd synagogue in Europe.
VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
GELLÉRT HILL
AND TABÁN
Franciscan Church
The magnificent 19th-century
paintings that decorate the
interior of this Baroque
church are by Károly Lotz.
BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
Inner City Parish Church
Dating from 1046, this church is Pest’s oldest
building. A figure of St Florian, the patron saint
of fire fighters, was placed on the wall beside
the altar after the church survived the great
fire of 1723.




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46  INTRODUCING BUD APEST


Exploring the Churches by an Italian architect, Donato
and Synagogues Allio. Under Habsburg rule, the
leading architects working in
the city, András Meyerhoffer,
Most of the city’s churches are found around the centres of Mátyás Nepauer and Kristóf
Buda and Pest. Only a few sacred buildings of architectural Hamon, often chose to follow
interest are situated on the outskirts of the city. The greatest Austrian examples.
period of construction took place in the 18th century, after University Church and
the final expulsion of the Turks. Another phase occurred in the St Anne’s Church are gene rally
considered to be the most
second half of the 19th century, producing two of Budapest’s beautiful buildings in the city
grandest places of worship: St Stephen’s Basilica and the Great dating from this era. The former
Synagogue. Religious buildings were neglected after World astonishes visitors with its
War II, but thanks to resto ration some have now regained beautifully carved stalls and
their former splendour. pulpit, and with the paintings
by Johann Bergl adorning its
vaults. St Anne’s Church has a
a Baroque interior by the Jesuits magnificent Baroque façade
who had at that time taken it and reveals the influence of
over. Finally, the church was southern German Baroque in its
returned to a likeness of its oval floor plan. Inside, there is a
medieval character between lavish altar and pulpit de signed
1874–96, when all Baroque by Károly Bebó.
elements were systematically The Franciscan Church,
removed and it was given a which is situated in the centre
Neo-Gothic shape. of Budapest and dates from
The Church of St Mary 1758, has a wide Baroque nave
Magdalene, built in 1274 in and a main altar created by
the Gothic style, was almost Antal Grassalkovich.
completely destroyed in 1945.
All that remains intact today is
the 15th-century tower with its
two chapels. A Gothic win dow
has also been rebuilt.
St Michael’s Church, founded
Reconstructed Gothic window of the in the 12th century on Margaret
Church of St Mary Magdalene Island, was completely destroyed
by the Turks. However, in 1932 it
was reconstructed from its
Medieval
original Romanesque plans.
Both Mátyás Church and the
Inner City Parish Church date Baroque
originally from the reign of Béla
IV in the 13th century. Glimpses In the 18th century, 17 churches
of their original Romanesque were built in Pest, Buda and
style can be seen, although Óbuda, all of them in the
each church was subsequently Baroque style. The influence of
rebuilt in the Gothic style. After the Italian archi tectural school is
being sacked by the Turks in visible in many of them, although The interior of the Servite Church (1725),
1526, Mátyás Church was given only University Church was built with its Baroque altar
Neo-Gothic spire of
Spires and Domes Gothic spire the Calvinist Church
The Gothic spire belonging to the of the Church Baroque
Church of St Mary Magdalene and of St Mary towers of St
the Neo-Gothic spire of Mátyás Magdalene Anne’s Church
Church are among Budapest’s
main landmarks. The twin Baroque
towers of St Anne’s Church and the
soaring spire of the Calvinist Church
rise above the Danube in Buda.
On the Pest side, the dome of St
Stephen’s Basilica and the minarets
of the Great Synagogue dominate.




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BUD APEST A T A GLANCE  47


dome at one point, meant
Neo-Classical and that the realization of the ori­
Historicist ginal design was impossible.
In 1781, Joseph II passed an Following Hild’s death in 1867,
edict permitting the building Miklós Ybl continued the project.
of Protestant churches. The city He departed from Hild’s plan,
already had many Catholic incorporating Renaissance­style
churches and Protestant com­ features. The Basilica was finally
munities now started to build com pleted by a third architect,
their own places of worship in József Kauser, in 1905.
the prevailing style of the time,
Neo­Classicism. Late 19th- and
One of the first to go up was
the Lutheran Church, on Deák 20th-Century
Ferenc tér, completed in 1808 The two most stunning
by Mihály Pollack, a gifted synagogues in Budapest The Byzantine-Moorish interior of the
master of Neo­Classical were designed by Viennese Great Synagogue
architecture. The white, ascetic architects in the second half
interior of the church, with its of the 19th century. 1913. These two churches
two­floor gallery, was ideally Ludwig Förster constructed the display a striking combination
suited to the nature of this place Great Synagogue in Byzantine­ of colourful ceramics, Eastern­
of worship. The majesty and Moorish style in 1859 and Otto style ornamentation and also
simplicity of the Neo­Classical Wagner, an important Secession Neo­Gothic elements.
style corresponded with the architect (see pp56–9), realized
more austere nature one of his first projects Where to Find the
of Protestant belief. in 1872. This was the Churches and
József Hild, another Orthodox Syna-
master of the style, gogue on Synagogues
later extended the Rumbach utca, Buda Lutheran Church p88
church. He added which also Calvinist Church p104
the portico with its incorporated Capuchin Church p104
Doric columns, Moorish ideas. Cave Church p96
linking the church with Closely linked to the Chapel of St Roch p139
the presbytery and a Secession style is the Church of St Mary
school. The complex as a Hungarian National Magdalene p89
whole is one of the best Style, based on an idio­ Cistercian Church of
exam ples of Neo­Classical syncratic combination St Imre p161
architecture in Budapest. of ethnic motifs and Franciscan Church p143
On a more modest elements from folk Great Synagogue
pp138–9
scale is the Calvinist art. This style is most Inner City Parish Church
Church, built in the visi ble in two pp128–9
Neo­Gothic style Baptismal font at the churches by Józsefváros Parish Church
between 1893–6. Lutheran Church Hungarian archi tects. p159
When plans for it Ödön Lechner, the Kőbánya Parish Church
were drawn up by József Hild originator of the Hungarian p160
in 1845, St Stephen’s Basilica National Style, completed Lutheran Church p132
was intended to be the pinnacle Kőbánya Parish Church, on the Mátyás Church pp86–7
of Neo­Classical architecture. outskirts of Budapest, in 1900. Orthodox Synagogue,
However, several delays, Meanwhile, Aladár Árkay built Jewish Quarter p138
including the collapse of its Városliget Calvinist Church in St Anne’s Church
pp106–107
St Elizabeth’s Church p105
Dome of the St Michael’s Church,
eclectic St Margaret Island p177
Moorish-
style towers Stephen’s Basilica St Stephen’s Basilica
pp120–21
of the Great Serbian Church p142
Synagogue
Servite Church p132
Tabán Parish Church p99
Újlak Parish Church
p158
University Church p143
Városliget Calvinist Church,
Városligeti Avenue p148



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48  INTRODUCING BUD APEST

Budapest’s Best: Palaces and Historic Buildings

Budapest boasts historic buildings and Royal Palace
palaces in a broad range of architectural This palace has a
turbulent history dating
styles. The majority represent the Neo- back to the 13th century.
Classicism, Historicism and Secession Its pres ent form, however,
of the 19th and early 20th centuries, reflects the opulence
when a dynamic development of the of the 19th century.
Today the palace
capital took place. All but a few Gothic houses two of the
and Renaissance details were lost in city’s finest museums.
the destruction of Buda and Pest by
Christian troops in 1686, but some
examples of its Baroque heritage remain.
This map gives some highlights, with
a more detailed look on pages 50–51. HUNGÁR IA K ÖR Ú T
KÓS KÁROLY
SÉTÁNY
Margit híd
A NDRÁSS Y Ú T
SZENT
ISTVÁN KRT
NORTH OF
MA R GIT K Ö RÚT THE CASTLE PARLIAMENT D ÓZ S A GY ÖR GY Ú T
DISTRICT
AROUND
BÁTHORY U.
D
AROUND
F Ő U .
CASTLE a ID. ANTALL JÒZSEF R. AN D R ÁSS Y Ú T VÁROSLIGET
n
Houses on Vienna Gate Square DISTRICT u ER Z S ÉBET KÖ R ÚT
This charming row of four houses was built in the b
late 18th and early 19th centuries on the ruins of e JÓZSEF
medieval dwellings. The houses are adorned with ATTI LA Ú T ATTILA U. R ÁKÓC ZI ÚT
decorative motifs in the Baroque, Rococo and Széchenyi
lánchíd
Neo-Classical styles. CENTRAL
PEST R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T
JANE HANING R.
K R IS ZTINA KÖRÚ T
Erzsébet MÚZEUM KRT J ÓZ SEF KÖ R ÚT
HEGYALJA ÚT híd
VÁMHÁZ KRT Ü LLŐI ÚT
GELLÉRT HILL
AND TABÁN
Sándor Palace
The original friezes that decorated this 19th-century
palace were recreated by Hungarian artists as part BA RTÓK BÉLA ÚT
of its restoration. The palace is now the
headquarters of the President of Hungary.





Várkert Kiosk
This Neo-Renaissance pavilion was built
by Miklós Ybl (see p123) as a pump house
for the Royal Palace. It now operates
as a venue for events.




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