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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this vibrant and historic city.

Explore the historic heart of Buda on Castle Hill, take a dip in one of the city's thermal baths or shop till you drop along Váci Street's market stalls: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Budapest with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out city map, help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Budapest, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Neo-Gothic Parliament, striking Hungarian State Opera, imposing Gellért Hotel and Baths and more
- Colour photographs of Budapest's historic sights, incredible architecture, beautiful baths, pretty parks

and gardens, and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about this city's fascinating

history and culture, traditional festivals and events, local food and drink, shops and markets, folk and

classical music, theatre and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Castle District, Gellért Hill and Tabán, Parliament, Central

Pest, Városliget and beyond
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

and visa and health information.

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to Hungary's spectacular capital.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-19 00:09:02

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this vibrant and historic city.

Explore the historic heart of Buda on Castle Hill, take a dip in one of the city's thermal baths or shop till you drop along Váci Street's market stalls: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Budapest with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out city map, help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Budapest, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Neo-Gothic Parliament, striking Hungarian State Opera, imposing Gellért Hotel and Baths and more
- Colour photographs of Budapest's historic sights, incredible architecture, beautiful baths, pretty parks

and gardens, and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about this city's fascinating

history and culture, traditional festivals and events, local food and drink, shops and markets, folk and

classical music, theatre and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Castle District, Gellért Hill and Tabán, Parliament, Central

Pest, Városliget and beyond
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

and visa and health information.

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to Hungary's spectacular capital.

AROUND V ÁROSLIGE T  149


museum was opened at Deák
tér, and some of the old stations
were renovated. It is still in
service today, and runs from under
Andrássy út to the Városliget.

8 Millennium
Monument
Millenniumi Emlékmű
Map 5 C4. q Hosök tere.
Post delivery car and bike on display at the Postal Museum This monument was designed
by György Zala and Albert
and harmonize with the interior 1897, with stained-glass windows Schikedanz to commemorate
Secession decoration. crafted by Miksa Róth, a famous Hungary’s Millennium
In front of the church is craftsman of the late 19th Celebrations in 1896, but was
the Ráth György Museum, century. An exhibition on the not completed until 1929.
displaying artifacts from China, history of the Royal Hungarian At the centre of the monu-
Korea and Japan collected in Post Office includes working ment is a 36-m (120-ft) high
the 19th century. telegraphs, telephone exchanges, Corinthian column, upon
Further along the avenue the first post delivery car from which stands the Archangel
is a Lutheran church. It was 1905, and an electric car used Gabriel holding St István’s
constructed between 1903–5 in the 21st century. crown and the apostolic
to a Neo-Gothic design by cross. These objects signify
Samu Pecz, who also designed Hungary’s conversion to
the interior detail. Worthy of 7 Millennium Christianity under King István
note is the painting on the high Underground (see p24). At the base of the
altar, by Gyula Benczúr, enti tled Railway & Museum column there are equestrian
The Adoration of the Magi. statues of Prince Árpád and
Kisföldalatti; Földalatti Vasút Múzeum
six of the conquering
Andrássy ut. Map 5 B4. Tel (06 1) 461 Magyar warriors.
6 Postal Museum 65 00. q Deák tér. Open Underground A stone tile set in front of
Museum: 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
Postamúzeum the column marks the Tomb
Closed 1 Nov. & ∑ bkv.hu/en/ of the Unknown Soldier.
Benczúr utca 27. Map 5 B5. museums/millenium_ The column is embraced by
Tel (06 1) 269 68 38. q Bajza utca. underground_museum two curved colonnades, feat-
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. &
∑ postamuzeum.hu uring allegorical compositions
The Metro 1, officially known as at both ends. Personifications
The Hungarian Postal Museum the Millennium Underground of War and Peace are nearest
is located in the former mansion Railway, is Hungary’s oldest and the column, while Knowledge
of the Egyedi Family. It was built the world’s second-oldest under- and Glory crown the far end of
in Neo-Renaissance style in ground railway. The construction the right-hand colonnade, and
on the line was started in 1894 Labour and Prosperity crown
and was completed just two the far end of the left. Statues
years later, when it went into of great Hungarians, including
operation. In 2002, it was declared statesmen and
a UNESCO World Heritage Site. monarchs, are
To celebrate its existence and arranged within
history, an underground rail the colonnades.











The right-hand colonnade of the Millennium Monument on Heroes’ Square, completed in 1929




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150  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

0 Museum of Fine Arts
Szépművészeti Múzeum

The origins of the Museum of Fine Arts’ First floor
comprehensive collection date from 1870,
when the state bought a magnificent
collection of paintings from the artistocratic
Esterházy fam ily. The museum’s collection
was enriched by donations and acquisitions,
and in 1906 it moved to its present location.
The building, by Fülöp Herzog and Albert
Schickedanz, is Neo-Classical with Italian-
Renaissance influences. It depicts the Battle
of the Centaurs and Lapiths, and is copied The Water Carrier
from the Temple of Zeus at Olympia, Greece. (c. 1810)
La Aquadora demonstrates the
full range of Francisco de Goya’s
artistic talent.

The Fall of Man
(c. 1620)
The Flemish artist, Jacob Jordaens,
worked alongside van Dyck and
was Rubens’ principal associate.










. Esterházy Madonna
(c. 1508)
This unfinished picture
by Raphael is so named
because it became the
property of the Esterházy Lower
family at the beginning ground floor
of the 19th century.




Key
Egyptian artifacts
Classical artifacts
German art
Dutch and Flemish art
European sculpture
St James
Italian art Conquers the Moors
Spanish art (1750)
French and British art Giambattista Tiepolo
portrayed the miracu lous
Drawings and graphic art appearance of the saint
19th- and 20th-century works during a battle at Clavijo
Temporary exhibitions in 844.




150-151_EW_Budapest.indd 150 15/09/16 10:33 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

AROUND V ÁROSLIGE T  151

View of Amsterdam
(c. 1656) VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Jacob van Ruisdael was
a master of Dutch realist Practical Information
landscape painting. He greatly Hősök tere. Map 5 C3.
influenced the development Tel (06 1) 469 71 00.
of European landscape Closed for renovation until
painting in the 19th century. early 2018. & 7 8 =
∑ mfab.hu
Transport
@ 105. v 75, 79.
q Hosök tere.
Second floor


Renaissance
Hall
Two Girls
Embracing
(Two Friends)
(1915)
This piece in water­
colour pencil marks the
influential Austrian artist
Egon Schiele as an early
exponent of Viennese
Expressionism.













Baroque . St John the Baptist’s Sermon (1566)
Hall In this wonderful painting, Pieter Bruegel the Elder, a renowned
observer of daily life, depicts a preacher addressing a group of
peasants from Flanders.
Ground floor




These Women in the Refectory
(1894)
This pastel sketch by the artist
Henri de Toulouse­Lautrec, an
observer and protagonist in the
Parisian demi­monde, depicts
prostitutes in a bar.

Museum Guide
The museum will remain closed for renovation until 2018. However, a
selection of 50–60 artworks from its collections are on display in Wing
C of the Hungarian National Gallery (see pp78–81).




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152  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


Exploring the Museum of Fine Arts Dutch and Flemish Art
The museum’s collection encompasses international art The museum’s Dutch and
dating from antiquity to the 20th century. As well as Flemish collection features
Egyptian, Greek and Roman artifacts, the museum houses works by the finest masters,
galleries dedicated to a variety of modern art. Alongside its including influential landscape
artist, Jacob van Ruisdael, with
interesting collection of sculptures, there are priceless View of Amsterdam (see p151).
drawings and works of graphic art. The museum has been The subtle Nativity by Gerard
undergoing redevelopment over the past few years. It is now David and Pieter Bruegel’s
closed to visitors until the restoration is complete in 2018. In detailed masterpiece St John
the interim, some of the museum’s works are on display in the Baptist’s Sermon (see p151),
the Hungarian National Gallery (see pp78–81). depicting Flemish peasants
listening to the saint’s words,
are exemplary exhibits.
The museum also boasts
canvases attributed to
Egyptian Artifacts
Rembrandt, including St Joseph’s
Egyptian artifacts have been Dream, portraits by Frans Hals
exhibited in the museum and Jan Vermeer’s Portrait of a
since 1939. Principally, they Lady. Not to be missed are the
are the result of 19th-century magnificent 17th-century Dutch
excavations that involved paintings by artists including
Hungarian archaeologists. Adrian van Ostade, Jacob
The rich collection includes Ruisdael, Jan Steen and others.
stone sculptures from each The highlight of the Flemish
historic period, from the Old collection is the 17th-century
Kingdom to the Ptolemy Mucius Scaevola before Porsenna
dynasty. A nobleman’s head by Peter Rubens and his then
of a votive statue dates from assistant, Anthony van Dyck.
the New Kingdom and is a Albrecht Dürer’s simple yet beautiful The latter was respon sible for
particularly beautiful example. Portrait of a Young Man the picture of St John the
Also worthy of note is the Evangelist, also on display.
collection of small bronze figures, The collection of Greek vases Also important is the paint ing
which also date mainly from the ranks as one of the best of its of Adam and Eve in The Fall
New Kingdom, together with kind in Europe. A black-figure of Man by Jacob Jordaens
domestic objects that illustrate amphora by Exekias and a kylix (see p150), who also worked
everyday life. from the studio of the painter as an assistant to Rubens.
Andokides are very fine
examples of this work.
Classical Artifacts Bronze work, which dates Italian Art
The collection of Classical from various epochs, including This valuable collection of
artifacts is rather varied. It the famous Grimani jug from Italian art, which was the
encompasses works of Greek, the 5th century BC, gold jewel- core of the Esterházy family’s
Etruscan, and Roman works. lery, and marble and terracotta collection, is often considered
sculptures are all exquisite the museum’s biggest attrac-
artifacts from this era. tion. All the schools of Italian
painting, from the 13th to the
18th centuries, are on display
German Art
here. The Renaissance period
Among the most valuable is perhaps the best represented.
works in the collection Of particular note is the cap-
are the Portrait of a Young tivating Esterházy Madonna (see
Man, by Albrecht Dürer, and p150), an unfinished painting
the carefully composed by Raphael. Another great work
painting of The Dormition by this outstanding artist is
of Mary, by Hans Holbein. the Portrait of Pietro Bembo.
The work of such masters as There is no shortage of
Hans Baldung Grien and Lucas work by famous 16th-century
Cranach are worth seeing, as Venetian artists among the
is the collection of German paintings collected here.
and Austrian Baroque painting, Important works by Titian,
Detail of a hunting scene on a 3rd-century which includes work by Franz Bonifazio Veronese, Antonio
AD Greek sarcophagus Anton Maulbertsch. Correggio, Jacopo Tintoretto,




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AROUND V ÁROSLIGE T  153


Giorgione and Giovanni 20th-century art. The visitor
Boltraffio are all exhibited European Sculpture can admire works by all the
here. An excellent example The collection encompasses the major painters of the time,
of Baroque art is Giambattista history of European sculpture up including, Henri de Toulouse-
Tiepolo’s vast late 18th-century to the 19th century. Among its Lautrec’s These Women in the
painting, St James Conquers the 600 items are such jewels as the Refectory (see p151), Gustave
Moors (see p150). Man of Sorrows by Verrocchio Courbet’s Wrestlers, Edouard
and a small bronze sculpture by Manet’s Woman with a Fan
Leonardo da Vinci (1452–1519). and Camille Pissarro’s Pont-Neuf.
This is an unusually dynamic Paul Gauguin’s Black Pigs, one
representation of King François of his first Tahitian canvases,
I of France on his horse. Other is also on display here. To
superb examples of Italian complete the collection,
sculpture, by masters such as the likes of Eugène Delacroix,
Andrea Pisano of the Ronni Claude Monet, Pierre Bonnard,
family, can also be seen. The Pierre Renoir and Paul Cézanne
small bronzes from the are also represented.
Renaissance and Baroque Austrian and German
periods are further highlights. 19th- and 20th-century art
The German, Dutch and French is represented with works
Middle Ages are well represented by Waldmüller, Amerling,
El Greco’s The Penance of St Mary Magdelene by various works, including the Lenbach, Leibl and Menzel.
(c. 1576) 14th-century Beautiful Madonnas Outstanding works from the
and wooden sculptures from the collection of 20th-century and
Late Medieval Riemenschneider contemporary art are show-
Spanish Art
workshop. Donner and Messer- cased in the basement-level
The most important features of schmidt represent Austrian Majovszky Halls, which have
this collection are seven paintings Baroque art, the brightest period been converted into a sterile
by El Greco, includ ing The of sculpture in the region, with a white cube. Works from the
Annunciation, Christ in the Garden number of fine works. museum’s holdings are comple-
of Gethsemane and The Penance mented by master pieces of
of St Mary Magdalene, a subtle Drawings and Graphic great value on loan from
though fully expressive work. prominent private collectors,
The dramatic Martyrdom of Art artists and foundations.
St Andrew by Jusepe de Ribera The collection of drawings and Emphasis is given to the
should not be missed, nor the graphic art combines the work of donations made by Victor
work of artists such as Diego old masters, includ ing drawings Vasarely, and works by Marc
Velázquez, Bartolomé Murillo and by Leonard da Vinci, Raphael, Chagall, Corneille, Le Corbusier,
Francisco de Zurbarán. Francisco Albrecht Dürer and Rembrandt, Robert Rauschenberg and
de Goya’s obser vations of daily with pieces from artists of the Timm Ulrichs are also included.
life produced paintings such as 19th and 20th centuries. The There are also pieces such as
The Water Carrier (see p150), which collec tion is one of Europe’s best. Renato Guttuso’s principle work
also deserves special attention. titled Occupation of Uncultivated
Lands of Sicily, Joseph Beuys’
19th- and 20th-Century famous bag object exploring
French and British Art Works the opportunities inherent
Works by French and British French painting makes up in direct democracy, and
artists are not as numerous as the largest constituent of the a lava stone sculpture by
Italian works, for example, but collection of 19th- and Antoni Tàpies.
represent the various styles of
the two countries.
French works include the
well-composed Resting on the
Journey to Egypt by Nicolas
Poussin, the grandly majestic
Finding of Moses, also by
Poussin, and the bucolic
landscape of Villa in the Roman
Countryside by Claude Lorrain.
The collection of British
paintings includes portraits by
artists of the calibre of Joshua
Reynolds, William Hogarth and
Thomas Gainsborough. Paul Cézanne’s still life, The Buffet, dating from 1877




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154  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


design. Each of the pavilions
either uses authentic details
copied from Hungary’s most
impor tant historic build ings
or is a looser interpreta tion of
a style inspired by a specific
architect of that historic period.
The Romanesque complex
features a copy of the portal
from a church in Ják (see p147) as
well as a monastic cloister and
palace. The details on the Gothic
The façade of the Műcsarnok Art Gallery, featuring a six-columned portico pavilion have been taken from
9 Műcsarnok Art q Vajdahunyad castles like those in Vajdahunyad
and Segesvár (both now in
Gallery Castle Romania). The architect Fischer
Műcsarnok Vajdahunyad Vára von Erlach was the inspiration
for the Renaissance and Baroque
Hősök tere. Map 5 C4. Tel (06 1) 460 Városliget. Map 6 D4. Tel (06 1) 422 com plex. The façade copies part
70 00. q Hosök tere. Open 10am– 07 65. q Széchenyi fürdő. Museum
6pm Tue–Sun, noon–8pm Thu. & of Hungarian Agriculture: Tel (06 1) of the Bakócz chapel in the cath­
7 8 ∑ mucsarnok.hu 422 07 65. Open mid­Mar–mid­Nov: edral at Esztergom (see p168).
10am–5pm Tue–Sun; mid­Nov–mid­ The Museum of Hungarian
Situated on the southern side Mar: 10am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–5pm Agriculture is housed in this
of Heroes’ Square, opposite Sat & Sun. & 7 8 ∑ mmgm.hu wonderful building. It has
the Museum of Fine Arts exhibits on animals, forestry,
(see pp150–53), is Hungary’s This fairytale­like building is wine­making, hunting, fishing
largest exhibition space. Temp­ located among the trees at the and horse­racing.
orary exhibitions of mainly edge of the lake in Városliget. Not The entire complex reflects
contemporary painting and a genuine castle but a complex of more than 20 of Hungary’s
sculpture are held here. buildings reflect ing various arch­ most renowned buildings. The
The imposing Neo­Classical itectural styles, it was designed by medieval period, often consid­
building, which was designed Ignác Alpár for the 1896 Millen­ ered to be the most glorious
by Albert Schickedanz and nium Celebrations (see p146). time in Hungary’s history, is
Fülöp Herzog in 1895, is fronted Alpár’s creation illustrated given greatest emphasis, while
by a vast six­columned portico. the history and evolution of the contro versial Habsburg era
The colourful mosaic, depicting architecture in Hungary. Origi­ is pushed into the background.
St István as the patron saint nally intended as temporary
of fine art, was added to the exhibition pavilions, the castle w Zoo
tympanum between 1938–41. proved so popular with the
Behind the portico is a fresco public that, between 1904–6, Fővárosi Állat- és Növénykert
in three parts by Lajos Deák it was rebuilt using brick to Állatkerti körút 6–12. Map 5 C3.
Ébner: The Beginning of Sculpture, create a permanent structure. Tel (06 1) 273 49 00. q Széchenyi fürdő.
The Source of Arts and The Origins The pavilions are grouped in Open daily (times vary; check website).
of Painting. chronological order of style: & Holnemvolt Park Open Mar–Oct:
Roman esque is followed by 9am–5pm Mon–Thu, 9am–6pm Fri–
Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque and Sun; Nov–Feb: 9am–4pm daily.
0 Museum of so on. The individual styles were ∑ zoobudapest.com
Fine Arts linked together to give the Budapest’s zoo is one of the city’s
impression of a great attractions. It was estab­
See pp150–53. single, cohesive lished in 1866 by the Hungarian
Academy of Sciences












View across the lake of the Gothic (left) and Renaissance (right) sections of Vajdahunyad Castle




154-155_EW_Budapest.indd 154 15/09/16 10:33 am
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(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

AROUND V ÁROSLIGE T  155


(see p118). In 1907 it was bought
by the State and totally redeve­
loped, between 1909–11, by
Károly Kós and Dezső Zrumeczky.
The animals are housed in
enclosures, most of which strive
to mimic their natural habitat.
The elephant house, however,
by Kornél Neuschloss­Knüsli, is a
fine example of Secession style.
Károly Kós adopted a folk style
for the aviary, in which a wide
variety of birds fly freely. There One of the outdoor pools at the beautiful Széchenyi Baths
is also a popular children’s zoo.
The Hungarian Fairy Tale Park, The spa, housed in a Neo­Baroque side tower. The villa’s exterior
which is adjacent to the zoo, was building by Győző Cziegler and decoration is inspired by
once a funfair, but now operates Ede Dvorzsák, was constructed national folk art.
as a “Once Upon a Time Park” in 1909–13. In 1926, three open­ Hermina Chapel at No. 23, by
where children and families can air swim ming pools were added. József Hild, was built in 1842–6
meet about 30 different local Nowadays, there is one swimming in memory of Palatine József’s
breeds of animals and let off pool, a thermal pool and an daughter, Hermina Amália,
steam in the playground. Historic adventure pool. Bathing caps are who died in 1842.
features and games from the required in the swimming pool. Backing onto Hermina Street,
funfair have been retained, such at No. 11 Városligeti körút, is
as a carousel and a 1922 wooden the Transport Museum with
roller coaster (one of the few r Hermina Street exhibits on the evolution of
remaining side­friction roller Hermina Út air, sea, road and rail trans port.
coasters in the world). Develop­ Map 6 E3, 6 E4 & 6 F4. v 70. Among the trains, helicopters
ment of the park is on­going so Transport Museum: Tel (06 1) 273 and aeroplanes are some
planned features are still being 38 40. Closed for renovation until pre­World War II right­hand­
added. Zoo tickets include entry 2018. & 7 8 drive cars and the first
to the park, but you can also buy trams in Budapest.
tickets for the park only. This beautiful street is worth
walking along to experience
the romantic atmosphere of the
e Széchenyi Baths historic, elegant villas in this
Széchenyi Strandfürdő area. Particularly notable is the
unusual Secession building at
Állatkerti körút 11. Map 6 D3. No. 47, Sipeky Balázs Villa (see
Tel (06 1) 363 32 10. q Széchenyi
fürdő. Open Thermal Pool: 6am–7pm p57), built in 1905–6 by archi­
daily. Swimming pool and steam tects Ödön Lechner, Marcell
rooms: 6am–10pm daily. & Komor and Dezső Jakab. The
∑ szechenyibath.com asymmetric design of the villa’s
façade includes features such
A statue stands at the main as a domed glass conser vatory,
entrance to the Széchenyi Baths an ironwork porch
depicting geologist Vilmos and a tall, narrow
Zsigmond, who dis covered a Poster for a gala and ballet
hot spring here while drilling performance at the Erkel Theatre
a well in 1879.
The Széchenyi Baths are the t Erkel Theatre
deepest and one of the hottest Erkel Színház
baths in Budapest – the water II. János Pál pápa tér 30. Map 7 C3.
reaches the surface at a Tel (06 1) 332 61 50. q II. János Pál
temperature of 74–5° C pápa tér. ∑ opera.hu/en/erkel
(165° F). The springs, rich
in minerals, are distin­ An alternative venue of the
guished by their alleged National Opera Company, the
healing properties. largest theatre in Hungary seats
They are recommended 2,500 people. Designed in 1911
for treating rheumatism by Marcell Komor, Dezső Jakab
and disorders of and Géza Márkus, its current
the nervous system, A steam train exhibited at the Transport Museum, form dates from the 1950s. It
joints and muscles. just off Hermina Street hosts concerts and operas.




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156-157_EW_Budapest.indd 156 15/09/16 10:33 am

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  157

FURTHER AFIELD

Budapest is a sprawling city and several sights Cemetery, where a host of famous
on its periphery are well worth a visit. North Hungarians are buried. To the south of the
from the centre of Buda are the ruins of city is the Nagytétény Palace, one of the
Aquincum, a town founded by the Romans in most beautiful Baroque palaces in all of
approximately AD 100. To the west, the city is Hungary. The setting for Socialist-era statues,
skirted by wooded hills, which offer walks Memento Park – Statue Park, is not far from
around beautiful nature reserves and exciting the palace. All the sights can be reached
cave visits. Out to the east of Pest is Kerepesi easily using public transport.

Sights at a Glance
Museums and Theatres Parks and Recreation Areas Churches
0 Holocaust Memorial Center 2 Szemlő-hegy and 3 Újlak Parish Church
q Müpa Budapest Pál-völgy Caves 7 Józsefváros Parish Church
y National Theatre 5 Ferenc Puskás Stadium e Kőbánya Parish Church
a Gizi Bajor Actors’ Museum o Cistercian Church of St Imre
j Aquincum pp166–7 8 ELTE Füvészkert Botanical
Garden
Historic Buildings and w Railway History Park
Monuments p Budapest Congress Center Key
1 Raoul Wallenberg s Eagle Hill Nature City centre
Monument Reserve
4 Geological and Geophysical Motorway
Institute of Hungary h Buda Hills Main road
9 Ludovika Academy Cemeteries Railway
u Wekerle Estate
i Technical University 6 Kerepesi Cemetery
d Memento Park – Statue Park r Municipal Cemetery pp162–3
f Törley Mausoleum t Jewish Cemetery 0 kilometres 5
g Nagytétény Palace Museum 0 miles 3



Vác Hatvan
Esztergom Újpest M3
Danube (Duna) M3 Gödöllõ
11
Óbuda 2 M0
Újpalota
Angyalföld
Árpádföld
10
Zugliget Zugló
Nyugati pu. Sashalom
Fogaskerekû Keleti pu. 3 Mátyásföld
Déli-pu. Józsefvárosi
pu. Rákos-patak
31
Sasad
4 Óhegy
Budaörs Jászberény
1
Kelenföld
Gyõr
M7 4
Albertfalva Kispest
Budapest
Pesterzsébet Ferenc Liszt
7 Airport
Budafok
Csepel Ráckevei
Danube (Duna) 510
Budatétény M5
6 Pestszentimre Cegléd
M0
Pécs Kecskemét
A castle in the town of Esztergom, located on the Danube north of Budapest For keys to symbols see back flap
156-157_EW_Budapest.indd 157 15/09/16 10:33 am

158  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


1 Raoul Wallenberg built in 1691 as a memorial to the
city’s earliest plague epidemic.
Monument The Baroque monument was
Raoul Wallenberg szobor moved from central Buda to
Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor. v 56. Újlak in 1712.
Tucked away at the junction
of Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor and 4 Geological
Nagyajtai utca, is this monument and Geophysical
to an heroic but little known Institute of
figure of World War II. Raoul
Wallenberg was a Swedish Hungary
diplomat who used his position Magyar Földtani és Geofizikai
to save over 20,000 Hungarian Intézet
Jews from the extermination Stefánia út 14. Map 8 F1. Tel (06 1)
camps. He set up safe houses 251 09 99. v 75. Museum: Open on
in the city and obtained fake The Baroque interior of Újlak Parish Church, week days by appointment only;
Swedish documents for them. dating from 1756 email: [email protected] at least one
Following the liberation of week ahead. & ∑ mfgi.hu
Budapest by the Soviet army, 3 Újlak Parish
Wallenberg disappeared. It is Church This beautiful and unusual
thought he was arrested by the building, housing the
KGB and sent to a prison camp Újlaki pébániatemplom Geological and Geophysical
where he died. The memorial, Bécsi út 32. £ H5 Szépvölgyi út. Institute of Hungary, dates from
by sculptor Imre Varga, was v 17, 19, 41. 1898–9 and was designed by
erected in 1987. Ödön Lechner (see p58).
Bavarian settlers first built a Lechner’s very individual
small church here early in the Secession style, also known
2 Szemlő-hegy and 18th century. The present as the Hungarian National
Pál-völgy Caves church, designed by Kristóf Style, is on show here including
Szemlő-hegyi-barlang és Hamon and Mátyás Nepauer, motifs drawn from Hungarian
Pál-völgy-cseppköbarlang was finished in 1756. Its tower Renaissance architecture.
was added some years later. Here and there Zsolnay blue-
Szemlő-hegy Cave: Pusztaszeri út 35. In the Baroque interior there is glazed ceramic ornaments adorn
Tel 325 60 01. @ 29, 91, 291. a depiction of the Madonna, the walls and harmo nize with
Open 10am–4pm Wed–Mon; book a gift from the inhabitants of the blue roof tiles. The central
in advance. & 7 8 Pál-völgy Cave: Passau. The main altar, dating pitched roof is topped by four
Szépvölgyi út 162. Tel (06 1) 325 95 05.
@ 65. Open 10am–4pm Tue–Sun; from 1798, also includes human figures bent under the
book in advance. & 8 ∑ caving.hu a painting entitled The weight of a large globe. Inside
Visitation, which was the is a small museum
Thermal water springs have work of Francis Falkoner. with rock and
created a 120-km (75-mile) long Not far away, at mineral exhibits.
system of caves in the Buda Hills, Zsigmond tér, stands Lechner’s
with picturesque formations. Two the Holy Trinity Secession
caves, less than a kilometre (half Column,
a mile) apart, are open to visitors.
Szemlő-hegy Cave features
extraordinary formations called
“cave pearls”, produced when
hot spring waters penetrate
its limestone walls. There are
guided tours every hour, as well
as caving tours for the more
adventurous; book in advance.
In Pál-völgy Cave, strange
formations protruding from the
rock face resemble animals.
Visitors are advised to wear
warm clothes when entering the
caves as they are cold and damp.
Some claim, however, that the
atmosphere in the caves has a
relaxing and therapeutic effect
on the respiratory system. The Geological and Geophysical Institute of Hungary, with its stunning blue ceramic roof




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FUR THER AFIELD  159


interiors have been carefully and com posers are buried close
preserved – the central hall is to great architects. Hungarian
very grand, and can be seen Communists who were
when visiting the museum or sentenced to death in the
with the caretaker’s permission. show trials of 1949, were buried
here. Their funerals inspired
5 Ferenc Puskás a revolutionary spirit which, a
few years later, led to the 1956
Stadium Uprising (see p36).
Puskás Ferenc stadion
Istvánmezei u. 3-5. Map 8 F1. 7 Józsefváros
Tel (06 1) 473 42 21. @ 95, 95A, 130, Parish Church
178. v 1. q Puskás Ferenc Stadion.
Closed for renovation until 2018. Józsefváros plébániatemplom
∑ magyarfutball.hu
Horváth Mihály tér 7. Map 7 C4.
Tel (06 1) 313 63 13. q Rákóczi tér.
Hungary’s biggest sports stadium,
named after the national Building work on this Baroque
football hero and legend church began in 1797, but The late Baroque façade of Józsefváros
Ferenc Puskás, was built it was not completed until 1814. Parish Church
between 1948–53 to a design The main altar is by József Hild.
by Károly Dávid. The roofless A formidable architectural villa is now the administration
structure seats 69,000, but composition, it is based on centre for the garden. It was
generally only fills to capacity a triumphal arch. This frames built in 1802–3, probably to
for major events. The entrance a magnificent painting, The a design by Mihály Pollack.
is at the end of the “Avenue Apotheosis of St Joseph, by The palm house has a huge
of Youth”, which is lined with Leopold Kupelwieser. The collection of tropical plants,
Stalinist-era statues, depicting church also has two beautiful, while in the Victoria House the
various sports, by well-known late Baroque side altars. striking Victoria cruziana flowers
Hungarian sculptors. once a year. The author Ferenc
Molnár (1878–1952) used the
6 Kerepesi 8 ELTE Füvészkert garden as a setting in his novel,
The Paul Street Boys, although
Cemetery Botanical Garden the lake mentioned in the book
Kerepesi temető ELTE Füvészkert no longer exists. Not far away
Illés utca 25. Map 8 D5. Tel (06 1) 314 are Pál utca (Paul Street) and
Fiumei út 16–20. Map 8 E3. @ 24, 37. 05 35 or 210 10 74. q Klinikák. Mária utca, the scene of a battle
v 24, 37.
Open Nov–Mar: 9am–4pm; Apr–Oct: the boys fought.
9am–5pm. & 8
Since 1847, the Kerepesi Cemetery 9 Ludovika
has provided the resting place A garden was first established
for many of Hungary’s most on this 3-ha (8-acre) site by Academy
prominent citizens. Fine the Festetics family. Their Ludovika Akadémia
tombstones mark the graves of modest, early Neo-Classical Ludovika tér 2–6. q Klinikák. Tel (06 1)
some, while others were interred 210 10 85. Open times vary; check
here inside large mausoleums. website for details. Natural History
The mausoleum of the leader Museum: Open 10am–6pm Wed–
of the 1948–9 uprising, Lajos Mon. 8 7 ∑ mttm.hu
Kossuth (see p110) and Lajos
Batthyány, the first prime The huge Ludovika Academy is in
minister of Hungary (see p33) district IX, east of the city centre.
are found here. Ferenc It was designed in the 1830s by
Deák, who formulated the Mihály Pollack, the famous archi-
Compromise with Austria tect of the Hungarian National
(see p34), is buried here. Museum (see pp134–7). A
Also at the cemetery are military academy until 1945,
the graves of poets Endre it is an impressive example
Ady and Attila József (see of Neo-Classical style, with
p110), writers Kálmán many original features
Mikszáth Zsigmond Móricz intact. It is now the city’s
and actors such as Lujza Natural History
Blaha, whose tomb is Museum, with a rich
particularly beautiful. paleontological
Sculptors, painters The tomb of actress Lujza Blaha at Kerepesi Cemetery collection.




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160  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

0 Holocaust w Railway History
Memorial Center Park
Holokauszt Emlékközpont Vasúttörténeti Park
Páva utca 39. @ 4, 6. q Corvin– Tatai út 95. £ Vintage diesel shuttle
Negyed. Tel (06 1) 455 33 33. from Nyugati station 10:20am, 11:20am,
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. & 7 1:20pm. @ 30A from Keleti station.
∑ hdke.hu Tel (06 1) 450 14 97. Open Apr–Oct:
10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Closed Nov–
The Center was founded in Mar. & 7 ∑ vasuttorteneti
order to collect and study park.hu
material relating to the history
of the Holocaust, and to honour This open-air museum of
its victims. The building complex railway history is one of Europe’s
is a mix of classical and modern largest. It boasts around 100
architecture, and its asymmetrical locomotives – most fully
outline and dislocated walls all functioning – dating from the
symbolize the distorted and early days of steam to modern
twisted time of the Holocaust. times. Visitors can drive a steam
A permanent exhibition train, play with a model railway
examines the history of the and ride in a line-inspection car.
suffering of Hungarian Jews Every year, the legendary Orient Gleaming ceramic tiles on the roof
and Roma during the Holocaust. Express makes several visits of Kőbánya Parish Church
here. The park is popular with
families as well as enthusiasts, surviving heavy World War II
and there is a full programme bombing, a number of Miksa
of events for children. Roth’s original stained-glass
windows are still in place.
e Kőbánya Parish
Church r Municipal
Kőbányai Plébániatemplom Cemetery
Szent László tér. @ 9, 17, 32, 62, 185. See pp162–3.
v 37. 7
An industrial suburb on the t Jewish Cemetery
eastern side of Pest, Kőbánya
is the unexpected home of Izraelita Temető
the beautiful Kőbánya Parish Kozma utca. @ 95, 202E.
Church. Designed by Ödön
The impressive open-space interior of Müpa Lechner (see p58) in the 1890s, Next door to the Municipal
Budapest, a cultural hub the church makes magnificent Cemetery is the Jewish
use of the architect’s favourite Cemetery, opened in 1893.
q Müpa Budapest materials, including vibrant The many grand tombs here
MÜPA roof tiles developed and are a vivid reminder of the
produced at the now-famous vigour and success of
Komor Marcell utca 1. v 1, 2, 2A, 24.
Tel (06 1) 555 3000. Open 10am– Zsolnay factory in the town Budapest’s pre-war Jewish
10pm daily. Ticket Office: (all events) of Pécs. Like much of community. At the end of
Open 10am–6pm. ∑ mupa.hu Lechner’s work, including the 19th century, nearly
the Museum of Applied a quarter of the city’s
Formerly known as the Palace Arts (see pp140–41), inhabitants were
of Arts, Müpa Budapest (MÜPA) the church combines Jewish. Tombs to
in the Millennium City Centre, motifs and colours look out for as
located on the Pest side of the from Hungarian you stroll among
Danube between the Lágymányos folk art with the graves
bridge and the National Theatre, Neo-Gothic include that
brings together the different elements. Inside of the Wellisch
branches of the arts under the church, family, designed
one roof. Permanent residents both the altar in 1903 by Arthur
include the Ludwig Museum and the pulpit Wellisch, and
of Contemporary Art, the are superb that of Konrád
National Philharmonic examples of Polnay, which
Orchestra, the Béla Bartók early 20th- was designed
National Concert Hall and century wood Schmidl family tomb at the five years later
the National Dance Theatre. carving. Somehow Jewish Cemetry by Gyula Fodor.




160-161_EW_Budapest.indd 160 15/09/16 10:33 am

FUR THER AFIELD  161


Perhaps the most eye-catching
of all belongs to the Schmidl
family. The startlingly flam-
boyant tomb, designed
in 1903 by Ödön Lechner
and Béla Lajta, is covered in
vivid turquoise ceramic tiles.
The central mosaic in green
and gold tiles represents the
Tree of Life.

y National Theatre
Nemzeti Színház
Bajor Gizi Park 1. Tel 476 68 68.
v 1, 2, 24. ∑ nemzetiszinhaz.hu Façade of the Technical University, as seen from the Danube
Situated at the foot of Rákóczi origi nally known as the Kispest i Technical
Bridge, the National Theatre Workers and Clerks Settlement University
showcases contemporary dance and was built to provide better Budapesti Műszaki Egyetem
and drama. The architect, Mária housing for local workers.
Siklós, designed a Neo-Eclectic Designed by a group of Műegyetem rakpart 3. Map 4 F4.
Tel (06 1) 463 11 11. @ 7, 133.
build ing surrounded by a park young architects, students of v 4, 6, 19, 47, 49, 56. q Szent
con tain ing statues portraying Ödön Lechner, the buildings Gellért tér. ∑ bme.hu
Hungary’s best actors. have a uniquely Hungarian
style. Other key influences Founded in 1857, the city’s
were the English Arts and Crafts Technical University moved to
u Wekerle Estate movement, and early English its present site in 1904. Built
Wekerle Telep new towns such as Hampstead on reclaimed marshland, the
Garden Suburb in London. imposing building overlooks
Kós Károly tér. Tel (06 1) 280 01 14.
q Határ út, then @ 194. Fanning out around Kós the Danube just south of Gellért
Károly tér, 16 types of family Hill (see pp92–3). Extended at
Out in district XIX, the Wekerle house and apartment block the end of World War II, it is now
Estate was built between 1909 are separated by tree-lined the largest higher education
and 1926, and represents a streets. Wooden gables and establishment in Hungary. Former
bold and successful experi ment balconies, and sharply pitched, students include Imre Steindl,
in 20th-century social planning. brightly tiled roofs, contribute the archi tect of the Parliament
Named after Prime Minister to the estate’s lively and building (see pp112–13), and the
Sándor Wekerle, the estate was eclectic atmosphere. richest and most widely known
graduate to date, Ernő Rubik,
inventor of the Rubik Cube.
o Cistercian Church
of St Imre
Cisztercita Szent Imre
Plébániatemplom
Villányi út 25. Map 3 C4. @ 27.
v 17, 61. 7
Not far from the Technical
University is the Cistercian Church
of St Imre. The vast Neo-Baroque
structure with its double tower
was built in 1938 and is typical
of the grand and rather sombre
architecture in vogue in Budapest
during the inter-war years.
Inside the church are relics
of St Imre, canonized at the
end of the 11th century. Other
patron saints of the Cistercian
order are depicted above the
A police station on the early 20th-century Wekerle Estate church’s main entrance.




160-161_EW_Budapest.indd 161 15/09/16 10:33 am

162  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

r Municipal Cemetery
Rákoskeresztúr

A new, historic significance was gained
by the Municipal Cemetery following the
1956 Uprising (see p36). Here, at Budapest’s
southeastern limits, the leaders and victims of
this bloody revolution against the oppressive
Stalinist government were secretly buried in
mass graves. Dur ing the 1970s, the country’s
democratic opposition began placing flowers
on the site, at the far side of the cemetery. Plot 300
In 1990, after the fall of Communism, the Until 1989, the state militia guarded access to a
revolutionary heroes were given a cere monial thicket which covered the communal graves of
the heroes of the 1956 Uprising.
funeral and reburied, and several memorials
were set up to them.













Campanile
A wooden campanile is the type of decoration
often found in old Hungarian cemeteries. It stands in
front of panels listing the names of over 400 victims
of the 1956 Uprising, giving the exact locations Plot 300
of their graves.


Plan of the Cemetery
In 1886, the city authorities opened a vast, new municipal
cemetery in Rákoskeresztúr, on the out skirts of town.
It became the largest cemetery in Budapest, occupying
30 sq km (12 sq miles).











Plots 300 . Transylvanian Gate
and 301 The 1956 Uprising Combatants’
Association erected the carved
Transylvanian Gate which stands at the
beginning of one of the paths leading
Main entrance 0 metres 500 into plot 300. It is inscribed with the
0 yards 500 words: “Only a Hungarian soul may pass
through this gate”.




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FUR THER AFIELD  163

. Imre Nagy’s Grave
A marble slab bears the VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
modest inscription: “Imre
Nagy, Prime Minister of Practical Information
Hungary, 1956”. Arrested Kozma utca 8–10, Kőbánya.
after the uprising, Nagy was Transport
interned and shot dead on @ 95, 202E. q Puskás Ferenc
16 June 1958 in Budapest, Stadion. Plots 300 and 301: 30
following a bogus mins walk from the main gate.
political trial. Fee charged for cars.








Plot 301















Christ the Sorrowful
A figure of Christ the Sorrowful is
traditionally placed in a plot
containing Protestant graves.


. Heroes’ Monument
This simple monu ment
symbolizes the passage
through pur gatory. It was
created by the leading
modern Hungarian
sculptor, György
Jovánovics.













Protestant Graves
The tradition of Hungarian
Protestants is to place a simple
wooden post to mark each grave.




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164  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


d Memento Park –
Statue Park
Memento Park - Szoborpark
Balatoni út & Szabadkai utca.
Tel (06 1) 424 75 00. @ 101, 150.
Open 10am–dusk daily. &
∑ mementopark.hu
In 1991, Budapest’s City Council
decided to gather in one place
Communist monuments which
had for merly occupied prestigious
locations in the city.
The park has been enlarged and
features gigantic monuments of
Viewpoint at Eagle Hill Nature Reserve the Communist regime. Statues of
Karl Marx, Friedrich Engels, VI Lenin
p Budapest exhibitions focus on the history and Hungarian Communist heroes
Congress Center of theatre and contemporary stand side by side, headed by the
theatre in Hungary. The leader of the 1919 revolution in
Budapest Kongresszusi Központ romantic garden features the Hungary (see p36), Béla Kun.
Jagelló út 1–3. Information: Alkotás út busts of several writers, together Stalin’s Tribune is a replica of the
63–67 Tel (06 1) 372 57 00. @ 8, 105, with a number of other cultural original grandstand from which
112. v 61. Open For events. ∑ bcc.hu figures in Hungary's history. Communist leaders greeted the
crowds. Above the tribune stood
Opened in 1985, this large an 8­m (26­ft) high bronze of
arts complex houses a concert s Eagle Hill Nature Stalin, but it was pulled down
hall, conference rooms and a Reserve during the national Uprising in
restaurant. It hosts international 1956 and only the boots remain.
conferences and events such as Sashegy Természetvédelmi Terület The Barakk Museum has
dance performances and gala Tájék utca 26. Tel (06 30) 408 43 70. exhibitions on everyday life under
concerts. The building was @ 8, 105. Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm the Communist regime, and a
designed, with the neigh­ Tue, Fri–Sun. 8 cinema has a screening of the
bouring Novotel Budapest City special methods used by the
Hotel, by the architect József A nature reserve more or less Communist secret services.
Finta. The Tree of Life decorating in the centre of a city of nearly
the main wall of the Congress two million inhabitants is a
Hall is by József Király. remarkable phenomenon.
Access to the summit of this
steep, 266­m (872­ft) high hill
a Gizi Bajor to the west of Gellért Hill (see
Actors' Museum pp92–3) is strictly regulated to
Bajor Gizi Színészmúzeum protect the extremely rare
animal and plant species found
Stromfeld Aurél út 16. Tel (06 1) 225 here. A smart resi dential quarter,
31 61. @102, 105. Open 2–6pm which lies on the lower slope
Wed–Sun. & 8
of Eagle Hill, extends almost
to the fence of the reserve
This museum was opened in and the craggy 30­ha (74­acre)
1952, in a garden villa which once wilderness that it encloses.
belonged to Gizi Bajor, a leading It is well worth taking a
Hungarian actress of her day. guided walk, particularly in
Today it is home to the Hungarian spring or early autumn. Only
Theatre Museum and Institute. here is it possible to see sesleria
The permanent collection sadleriana, also known as
celebrates the birth of theatre Pannonian Bluegrass, a cyan­
performance with exhibits of coloured grass species. The
furniture, portraits, props, reserve is also home to a type
costumes, models, manuscripts, of spider not found anywhere
video recordings and photos, else in the world, as well as
and takes visitors back to the to extraordinary, colourful
world of theatre in the 19th and butterflies and to ablepharus Cubist-style statues of Marx and Engels
early 20th century. Temporary kitaibelii, a rare lizard. in the Memento Park – Statue Park




164-165_EW_Budapest.indd 164 15/09/16 10:33 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Catalogue template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

FUR THER AFIELD  165


15th-century Gothic build ing. galleries. The altars, pulpit and
The work was started by György baptistries also date back to
Száraz and completed by his the mid-18th century.
son-in-law, József Rudnyánszky,
acquiring its final shape in 1766.
Based on the typical Baroque h Buda Hills
layout, it includes a main block Budai-hegység
and side wings. The coping q Széll Kálmán tér, then v 56,
features the Száraz and then cog-wheel railway (tram 60) and
Rudnyánszky family crests. chair lift.
The palace suffered severe
damage during World War II, To the west of the city centre
but the original wall paintings are the wooded Buda Hills
and furnishings survived. In where Budapesters come to
1949, the palace was rebuilt walk and relax.
and turned into an interior The first station of a cog-wheel
The marble Törley Mausoleum design museum. Now it is a railway, built in 1874, is on Szilágyi
department of the Museum Erzsébet fasor. This runs up Sváb
f Törley of Applied Arts (see pp140–41). Hill – named after the Germanic
Mausoleum On display are fine pieces of Swabians, who settled here under
Törley Mauzóleum Hungarian and European the Habsburgs (see p30) – and
furniture from the 15th–18th then Széchenyi Hill.
Sarló utca 6. @ 33. v 47. centuries, early 19th-century From Széchenyi Hill a narrow-
paintings and more functional gauge railway covers a 12-km
Until 1880 Budafok had a items, such as tiled stoves. (7-mile) route to the Hűvös
number of vineyards, but their Standing close to the palace Valley. As in the days of the
cultivation was destroyed in is an 18th-century Baroque Soviet Young Pioneers movement,
that year by a plague of church, built on the remains the railway is en tirely staffed by
phylloxera (American aphid). of a medieval church. Original children, apart from the adult
It was then that József Törley, Gothic features include the train drivers. At the top of János
who had studied wine-making window open ings in its tower Hill stands the Erzsébet Look-Out
in Reims, started to produce and three supports on the outer Tower, designed by Frigyes Schulek
sparkling wine in Budafok using wall of the presbytery. In 1760, in 1910. A chair lift also connects
the French model (see p194). the Austrian artist Johann the summit of János Hill with
His wines sold well abroad Gfall created the painting in the Zugligeti út and is a good way
and he quickly expand ed his dome which features illusory of making the descent.
enterprise, storing the wines
in the local cellars.
József Törley died in 1900
and was laid to rest in this
monumental mausoleum,
constructed in white marble
and designed by Rezső Vilmos
Ray. The Törley Mausoleum is
not open to the public.

g Nagytétényi
Palace Museum
Nagytétényi Kastély Múzeum
Kastélypark utca 9–11. Tel (06 1) 207
00 05. £ from Déli to Kastélypark.
@ 33. Open Mar–Dec: 10am–
6pm Tue–Sun; Jan–Feb: 10am–6pm
Sat & Sun; may close for renovations
so phone or check website before
visit. & 8 In period costume, by
arrangement. ∑ nagytetenyi.hu

This is one of the best known
Baroque palaces in Hungary. It
was built in the mid-18th century,
incorporating the remains of a The Erzsébet Look-Out Tower at the summit of János Hill




164-165_EW_Budapest.indd 165 15/09/16 10:33 am

166  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

j Aquincum
Aquincum

The remains of the Roman town of Aquincum
(see pp22–3) were excavated at the end of the
19th century. Visitors are free to stroll along
its streets, viewing the outlines of temples,
shops, baths and houses, in what was once
the centre of the town. This civilian town was
founded at the beginning of the 2nd century
AD, a couple of decades after a legionary View Towards the Museum
fortress (see pp174–5) was established to its The area opened to visitors
south. In the centre of the site there is a Neo- is only a fragment of
Classical museum building, which was built a much bigger
town.
in 1894. At the south end is a myth-themed
playground. On the other side of the road are the
remains of an amphitheatre, where Aquincum’s
in habitants once sought entertainment.














. Public Baths
The walls of the thermal baths
are immaculately preserved.
Visiting the baths was a social
event for the Romans.





Central Heating System
Archaeologists have here
unearthed the Roman
ver sion of central heating,
an under-floor system in
which hot air was circu-
lated under mosaic floors.





. Macellum
This was the covered mar ket
hall. Having stalls positioned
around a cool inner courtyard
kept the produce fresh and
made shopping comfortable
all year round (see pp22–3).




166-167_EW_Budapest.indd 166 21/10/2016 17:10

FUR THER AFIELD  167


. Museum
This Neo-Classical VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Lapidarium is part of the Practical Information
museum, which houses an
exhibition of objects found at Szentendrei út 135. Tel (06 1) 250 16
Aquincum and at other Roman 50. Park: Open Apr–Oct: 9am–6pm
Tue –Sun; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm
sites nearby. These include
in scribed stone monuments. Tue–Sun. & Museum: Open
10am–4pm Tue–Sun (Apr–Oct: to
6pm). & 8 ∑ aquincum.hu
Transport
£ Aquincum.









Thoroughfare
Paving stones can still be seen on the network of
streets that run across the town at right angles.


Double Baths
Built mainly of stone, the baths
were once richly decorated.
Traces of wall paintings and
mosaics can still be seen in
some places.

















Peristyle House
Surrounded by a colonnade, this courtyard once
stood at the centre of a large town house.


The Painter’s House
This elongated house
is a reconstruction of
the original house built
in the 2nd century AD.
Most rooms were
decorated with wall
paintings and one room
was even heated.




166-167_EW_Budapest.indd 167 15/09/16 10:30 am

168  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Excursions from Budapest

Budapest is ten times bigger than any other Hungarian city.
Sleepy and charming, the towns and villages on these pages
are ideal for day or overnight trips. Coaches (see p235) and
trains (see p239) are cheap and reliable. Esztergom, Visegrád
and Szentendre to the north of the city can all be reached
by boats (see p234), which run throughout the summer along
this beautiful stretch of the Danube. More off the beaten
track, the towns and villages to the south offer a fascinating
glimpse of traditional life.
1 Esztergom on Christmas Day AD 1000.
Almost completely destroyed
46 km (28 miles) NW of Budapest.
* 30,000. £ from Nyugati pu. by the Mongol invasion 250
@ from Árpád híd. 4 from Vigadó years later, the city was Overlooking the Danube, the vast cathedral
tér (summer only), take local buses 1-6 gradually rebuilt in the 18th at Esztergom
and get off at Béke tér stop. n Lőrinc and 19th centuries.
utca Cathedral: Szent István tér 1. Esztergom today is still the of ecclesiastical treasures
Tel (06 33) 41 18 95. Open Daily (times country’s most sacred city, rescued from the ruins of the
vary). 7 Treasury: Tel (06 33) 40 23 54. the seat of the archbishop of 12th-century church that
Open Mar–Oct: 8am–5pm daily; Hungary. Dominating the sky- ex isted on the cathedral site.
Nov–Feb: 8am–4pm Tue–Sun. ^ & line is the huge Catholic Below the cathedral are the
Castle: Tel (06 33) 41 59 86. Open Apr– cathedral, built in the early remains of the 10th-century
Oct: 10am–6pm Tue–Sun (Nov–Apr: to 19th century. By the southern castle, rebuilt several times.
4pm). ^ 7 ∑ esztergom.hu entrance, built by 16th-century It features a 12th-century
Florentine craftsmen, is the chapel. The picturesque old
St István, Hungary’s first red marble Bakócz burial chapel. town is also well worth explor-
Christian King, was baptized in On the northern side is the ing. At its heart is the town
Esztergom and crowned here treasury containing a collec tion square, home to several cafés.

Sights at a Glance Esztergom 12
1 Esztergom 11 Vác 21 Debrecen
2 Visegrád Visegrád 2A Hatvan
3 Szentendre Dorog Szentendre 3
4 Vác 2 M3 32
5 Fót 10 Fót
6 Gödöllő Győr M0 Gödöllő
7 Kecskemét M1 3
8 Kiskunfélegyháza BUDAPEST
9 Ráckeve Biatorbágy Sülysáp Nagykáta
0 Martonvásár M0 31
M7 M0 Monor
Martonvásár
4
M6 Danube (Duna) M5 Albertirsa
6
Székesfehérvár Dabas Cegléd Szolnok
Ráckeve
0 kilometres 20 441
0 miles 20 62 51 Kunszentmiklós
Dunaújváros
Kecskemét
Key 52
M6
Motorway 61 Solt
Main road Izsák 54 M5
Cece
Minor road
Kiskunfélegyháza
Railway Kalocsa


168-169_EW_Budapest.indd 168 15/09/16 12:02 pm
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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(Source v2.7)
Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

FUR THER AFIELD  169

3 Szentendre many galleries exhibiting the
25 km (16 miles) N of Budapest. work of local artists.
* 20,000. £ from Batthyány tér. The Ferenczy Museum has
@ from Árpád híd. g from Vigadó ten different exhibition locations,
tér (summer only). n Dumtsa Jenő including Pajor Manor with its
utca 22. Tel (06 26) 31 79 66. Belgrade three permanent exhibitions on
Cathedral: Pátriárka utca 5. Tel (06 26) 31 the art of Szentendre. Another
23 99. 7 Museum of Serbian Eccles- notable part of the museum is
iastical Art: Pátriárka utca 5. Tel (06 26) the Margit Kovács Ceramics
31 23 99. Open May–Sep: 10am–6pm Museum located at Vastagh
Tue–Sun; Oct–Apr: 10am–4pm Tue– Győrgy út 1.
Sun (Jan & Feb: Fri–Sun). & 8 To the west of town is the
Pajor Manor: Kossuth Lajos utca 5. Hungarian Open Air Museum,
Tel (06 26) 92 09 90. Open 10am–6pm an ethnographical museum,
Tue–Sun. ∑ femuz.hu. Hungarian illustrating the different
Open Air Museum: Sztaravodai u.
Tel (06 26) 50 25 01. Open Mar–Nov: Hungarian regions and their
9am–5pm Tue–Sun. & rural architecture and culture
2 Visegrád ∑ skanzen.hu across the social groups, from
the 18th to the 20th century.
Only 25 km (16 miles) outside
40 km (25 miles) N of Budapest.
* 1,800. @ from Újpest Városkapu. Budapest, Szentendre is a town 4 Vác
g from Vigadó tér (summer only). built and inhabited by a
n Rév utca 15. Tel (06 26) 39 81 60. succession of Serbian refu gees. 40 km (25 miles) N of Budapest.
Castle: Tel (06 26) 39 81 01. Open Mar, Most of Szentendre’s older build- * 36,000. £ from Nyugati pu.
Apr & Oct: 9am–5pm daily; May–Sep: ings date from the 18th-century. @ from Újpest Városkapu. n
9am–6pm daily; end-Oct–Nov: Március 15 tér 17. Tel (06 27) 31 61 60.
9am–4pm daily; Dec–Feb: 10am–4pm
Fri–Sun (25 Dec–10 Jan: 10am–4pm Vác has stood on the eastern
daily). & 7 Mátyás Museum & bank of the Danube since AD
Visegrád Palace: Tel (06 26) 39 80 26. 1000. Destroyed by war in the
Open Mar–Oct: 9am–5pm Tue–Sun; late 17th century, the town was
Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm Tue–Sun. & rebuilt and today its centre, built
8 by arrangement. ∑ visegrad.hu around four squares, dates from
the early 18th century. At its
Set on the narrowest stretch heart is Marcius 15 tér, where the
of the Danube, the village of Town Hall and Fehérek Church
Visegrád is a popular tourist are located. At the northern-
destination, thanks to its most end of the old town, on
spectacular ruined castle. Köztársaság út, is Hungary’s only
A 25-minute walk, or a short Arc de Tri omph. This was built in
bus or taxi ride will take you up Blagovestenska church in Fő tér, 1764, after a visit from the Habs-
to the castle from Visegrád. Built Szentendre’s main square burg Empress, Maria Theresa.
in the 13th century by King Béla The town’s cathedral, built in
IV, this was once one of the finest Orthodox religious tradition lies Classicist late-Baroque style, is
royal palaces ever built in Hungary. at the heart of the town, which the third largest in Hungary.
The massive outer walls are still contains many Orthodox
intact, and offer stunning views churches. The west ern European
over the surrounding countryside. façades hide Slavic interiors
Halfway down the hill, in the filled with in cense, icons
Salamon Tower, is the Mátyás and candlelight.
Museum, a collection of items Blagovestenska Church
excavated from the ruins of the on Fő tér, is just one example.
Visegrád Palace. Built by King Look out for the magnificent
Béla IV at the same time as the iconostasis that separates the
castle, the palace was renovated sanctuary from the nave. Also
two centuries later, in magnificent of interest is Sunday mass at
Renaissance style, by King Belgrade Cathedral.
Mátyás Corvinus (see pp26–7). Next door is a Museum of
Destroyed in the 16th century Serbian Ecclesiastical Art, full
after the Turkish invasion, then of icons and other religious
buried in a mud slide, the ruins artifacts. Since the 1920s,
were not rediscovered until Szentendre has been home to
1934, when the excavations an ever-increasing number of Arc de Triomph in Vác, built in honour
took place here. artists and the town contains of Empress Maria Theresa
For keys to symbols see back flap


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170  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


7 Kecskemét
86km (52 miles) SE of Budapest.
* 110,000. £ Nyugati pu. @
Népliget. n Kossuth tér 1. Tel (06 76)
48 10 65. Town Hall: Kossuth tér 1.
Tel (06 76) 51 35 13. Open 8am–
4:30pm Mon–Thu, 8am– 2pm Fri.
8 by appointment. Cifrapalota:
Rákóczi utca 1. Tel (06 76) 48 07 76.
Open 10am–5pm Tue–Sun.
& 7 8 ∑ kecskemet.hu
Spreading out in a vast sweep
around Budapest is the Great
Hungarian Plain, or Alföld, which Kecskemét Town Hall, designed by
covers nearly half of modern Ödön Lechner
Hungary. For hundreds of years,
Exterior of Fót’s Church of the Immaculate Kecskemét has been the major 8 Kiskunfélegyháza
Conception market town of the central- 110 km (66 miles) SE of Budapest.
southern plain. Distributing and * 40,000. n Szent János tér 2.
5 Fót pro cessing the products of the Tel (06 76) 56 14 20. £ Nyugati pu.
surrounding rich farmland, @ Népliget. House of Nature Visitor
25 km (15 miles) NE of Budapest.
* 16,000. £ Nyugati pu. @ Újpest Kecskemét grew affluent, par- Centre: Liszt Ferenc u. 19, Kecskemét
Városkapu. n Vörösmarty tér 3. ticularly towards the end of (for information on Kiskunsági Park).
Tel (06 76) 50 15 96. Open May–mid-
Károlyi Palace Open by appt. Tel (06 the 19th century. As a result, Oct: 8am–4pm Tue–Fri, 10am–2pm
27) 36 13 39. & 7 ground floor only. the town today boasts many
8 obligatory. Park: Open Apr–Sep: gracious squares and splendid Sat; mid-Oct–Apr: 8am–4pm Mon–Fri.
8am–8pm daily; Oct–Mar: 8am–6pm 19th and early 20th century ∑ knp.hu& Kiskun Museum:
Dr Holló Lajos utca 9. Tel (06 76) 46
daily. Church of the Immaculate buildings. The most famous is 14 68. Open Mar–Nov: 9am–4pm Tue–
Conception: Vörösmarty út 2. 8 Ödön Lechner’s massive Town Fri (to 5pm Sat); Dec–Feb: 8am–4pm
Hall. Built between 1893–6, the Tue–Thu (to 1pm Fri); Sat & Sun by
Just outside Budapest is the building is a combination of both appt. & 8 ∑ kiskunmuzeum.hu
small town of Fót. Its main Renaissance and Middle-Eastern
attraction is the Károlyi Palace, influences. The flamboyant Much of the Great Hungarian Plain
birthplace of the country’s first Cifrapalota (Ornamental Palace), is used to grow maize and vines.
president, Mihály Károlyi (see built as a casino in 1902, is a Small areas, however, have been
p36). The palace was built in uniquely Hungarian vari ation preserved as national parks.
the 1830s, with a pavilion added of the Secession style About 15 km (9 miles)
on each side a decade later. (see pp56–9). to the west of
Also worth a visit is the town’s
attractive 19th-century Church
of the Immaculate Conception.
6 Gödöllő
30 km (18 miles) NE of Budapest.
£ Hév from Örs vezér tere.
Grassalkovich Mansion: Tel (06 28) 41
01 24. Open Apr–Oct: 10am–6pm
daily; Nov–Mar: 10am–4pm Mon–Thu,
10am–5pm Fri–Sun. Closed Jan.
& 7 8 ∑ kiralyikastely.hu
Gödöllő is most famous for its
restored Baroque palace, the
Grassalkovich Mansion. Built
in 1741, it was the favourite
residence of Queen Elizabeth,
wife of Franz Joseph. The
permanent exhibition in the
Royal Museum incorporates the
Ceremonial Hall and royal suites,
and details the life of the
Austro-Hungarian monarchy. Detail of the ornate Town Hall façade at Kiskunfélegyháza




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FUR THER AFIELD  171


Kiskunfélegyháza is the Kiskunsági
National Park. Visitors can explore
nature trails (information is avail-
able from the Visitors’ Centre in
Kecskemét), and see rare animals
and birds, as well as the traditional
way of life of the plains herdsman.
The poet Sándor Petőfi was
born in Kiskunfélegyháza, and
his childhood home is now part
of the Kiskun Museum. The
Town Hall combines influences
of the Secession style (see pp56–
9) with motifs from folk art.
9 Ráckeve
43 km (26 miles) SW of Budapest.
* 8,500. £ Eötvös utca 11; H6 from
Budapest, Közvágóhíd. @ Népliget.
n Kossuth Lajos út 51. Tel (06 24) 42
97 47. ∑ tourinform.rackeve.hu
The village of Ráckeve is built
on Csepel Island, which extends
54 km (34 miles) south along
the middle of the Danube from Well-preserved frescoes in the Orthodox church at Ráckeve
Budapest. Ráckeve (Rác means
Serb in Hungarian) was founded 0 Martonvásár style. Little evidence of the
in the 15th century by Serbs 30 km (18 miles) SW of Budapest. original palace remains today,
from Keve, who fled Serbia after * 4,900. n Buda út 13. Tel (06 22) among the flamboyant turrets
the Turkish invasion (see pp28–9). 56 95 00. £ Déli pu. Brunswick Palace: and pinnacles. The magnificent
The oldest building in the Brunszvik utca 2. Open summer: parklands, however, are open
village is the Orthodox church, 8am–5pm; winter: 8am–4pm (park to the public and are much
built by some of the first of the only). & Beethoven Museum: as they always have been.
Serbian refugees. Dating back Open 10am–noon, 2–4pm Tue–Fri, The estate’s church, built in
to 1487, this is the oldest 10am–noon & 2–5pm Sat & Sun 1775, also remains largely
Orthodox church in Hungary. (Nov–Mar: to 4pm Sat & Sun). & 8 unaltered. The interior of the
Its walls are covered in well- church is decorated with
preserved frescos, the first The village of Martonvásár has well-preserved frescoes.
telling the story of the Nativity existed here since medieval times, Ludwig van Beethoven was
and the last showing the but its prin cipal tourist attraction a regular visitor to the original
Resurrection. The church has a is now the Brunswick Palace. palace. He gave music lessons
beautiful iconostasis separating Towards the end of the 18th to the daughters of the house,
the sanctuary from the nave. century the whole village was Therèse and Josephine, with
Ráckeve’s peaceful and bought by the German Brunswick whom he is said to have
convenient situation made family, and the original palace fallen in love. Some of the
it the country home of one was built for Anton Brunswick palace rooms have been
of Europe’s greatest military in grand Baroque style. A converted into a Beethoven
strategists, Prince Eugene century later, in 1875, the Museum. The Beethoven
of Savoy. Credited with the palace was totally rebuilt, festival is held in the gardens
expulsion of the Turks from this time in the Neo-Gothic during the summer.
Hungary at the end of
the 17th century, Prince
Eugene built himself a
country mansion on
Kossuth Lajos utca. Now
used as a hotel, the
interior of the house
has been modernized,
but the façade has been
preserved. The formal
gardens can be seen
from the river. The Neo-Gothic Brunswick Palace at Martonvásár




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172-173_EW_Budapest.indd 172 15/09/16 10:33 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Single-page city intros template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.3)
Date 5th December 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  173

THREE GUIDED WALKS

Budapest is a city made for exploring on across Chain Bridge and into Pest.
foot. From Turkish bathhouses to Baroque Óbuda has yielded some of the oldest
palaces, evidence of the city’s past is visible archeological finds in Hungary. This walk
at every turn. These guided walks take you takes in the ruins of a Roman amphitheatre,
through three fascinating areas: Óbuda and more modern attractions. The walk
to the north of the city centre, once the around car-free Margaret Island includes
site of a Roman garrison and now a an exotic landscaped garden. The third
residential district; Margaret Island, a park excursion encompasses the old buildings
in the middle of the Danube; and the of Buda’s Castle District and Pest’s lively
historic stretch that extends from Buda Central Market.









A Three-Hour Walk Around Óbuda
(see pp174–5)







Wedding car parked outside Fő tér
Palace (see p175)

A 90-Minute Walk
from Buda to Pest
A Two-Hour Walk (see pp178–9)
Around Margaret Island
(see pp176–7)















0 kilometres 2
0 miles 1


Key Central Market, the largest in the city
Walk route (see p179)
Sculpture on Margaret Island, a haven of greenery in the middle of the Danube



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174  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

A Three-Hour Walk around Óbuda

At first glance Óbuda today seems little more than a concrete
jungle of tower blocks and flyovers. Behind the grey façade,
however, there is a strong local identity and clues to the area’s
long and colourful past abound. Arriving here in AD 89, the
Romans built a garrison in this district shortly before founding
the civilian town of Aquincum (see pp166–7) to the north.
After the depar ture of the Romans in the 5th century AD,
successive waves of invaders, including the Magyars (see pp24–5)
all left their mark on Óbuda (literally “Old Buda”). By the end
of the 16th century, Óbuda was a thriving market town,
eventually forming part of the city of Budapest in 1873.

Old Óbuda Synagogue
to Flórián Tér 1 A section of Óbuda’s
From the amphitheatre, impressive Roman amphitheatre
continue along Pacsirtamező út
HERKULES U.
and turn down Perc utca left the popular novelist, bon MEGGYFA
up Mókus utca and Jós utca, viveur and local character, UTCA e
turning left into Lajos utca. Gyula Krúdy once lived 4.
At No. 163 is the Óbuda Writing in the early 20th
Synagogue 2. Built in the century, much of Krúdy’s SZÉL UTCA
0 The elegant, Neo-Baroque Fő tér Palace early 1820s to serve the area’s work looks back at an S Z E N T E N D R EI Ú T
with its sentry box growing Jewish commu nity, idealized rural Hungary
this is a Neo-Classical building and is extremely popular
The Roman Amphitheatre with a six-columned portico. in his country. This now VIHAR UTCA RAKTÁR U.
Begin the walk at the corner of The synagogue once served houses the Hungarian
Bécsi út and Pacsirtamező út, as a television studio, but in Museum of Trade and
which is dominated by the 2010 Hungarian Television Tourism. The museum’s KERÉK U.
remains of a very fine Roman handed over the building to the collection includes SZÉL UTCA LAKTANYA UTCA
amphitheatre 1. The Romans Jewish community and it once tools, scales MIKLÓS U. GRÓF ESZTERHÁZY JÁNOS
arrived in the region soon after again became a functioning
the time of Christ, building this synagogue. Some restoration w
impressive amphitheatre in the work has already taken place, VÖRÖSVÁRI ÚT VŐRŐSKERESZT U.
middle of the 2nd century AD, but the building requires further KORHÁZ U.
by which time Aquincum was renovation. Also on Lajos utca, TESZÁRSZ K. U. SOLYMÁR U. 0 q
the thriving capital of the at No. 168, is Óbuda Parish SZÕLÕ U. FŐ 9
TÉR
province of Lower Pannonia Church 3. Constructed in 7 TAVASZ UTCA
(see pp22–3). Originally used by 1744–9 on the site of the Roman FÖLD U. FLÓRIÁN 8
the Roman soldiers from the military camp, the church has TÉR SZENTLÉLEK
nearby garrison, it became a survived since then largely 6 TÉR Árpád híd
fortress in the 9th century for unchanged. The interior SAN MARCO U. KÁLVIN KŐZ 5 TANULÓ U.
the invading Mag yar army. Not includes a magnifi cently carved KISCELLI U. 4 Árpád híd
much remains of its once huge pulpit showing the Good ÓBUDAI
UTCA 3
walls, but the scale of the Shepherd and Mary Magdalene. ZÁPOR U. KIS KORONA U.
theatre, which was designed to Turning left up Óbudai utca, KENYERES U.
seat 14,000, is still awe inspiring. you will pass the house where UTCA 2
MÓKUS U.
JÓS
SELMECI U. SZÕLÕ U. PERC U. LAJOS U.
PACSIRTAMEZŐ UTCA
SZOMOLNOK U. BESZTERCE U.
TÍMÁR U. TÍMÁR U. SLACHTA MARGIT RAKPART
Tímár u.
VIADOR U.
BÉCSI ÚT
LAJOS U.
1
4 The former home of novelist and colourful local figure, Gyula Krúdy




174-175_EW_Budapest.indd 174 21/10/2016 17:10

THREE GUIDED W ALKS  175


and samples of the industry’s
products. From here, turn right
along Tanuló utca and pass
the ruins of the 14th-cen tury
St Clare’s Nunnery 5. Then turn
left towards Flórián tér. As you
pass Kálvin köz, on the left
at No. 2 is the 18th-cen tury
Óbuda Calvinist Church 6.
Key
9 Zichy Palace, built in the 18th century for an aristocratic family
Walk route

Next door is the presbytery, itself was built for the Zichy
built in 1909 to a design by family in 1757.
0 metres 400
Károly Kós, better known for Continue north up to Fő tér,
0 yards 400 his work on the Wekerle Estate one of the few areas of 18th-
(see p161). No. 4 is home to a and 19th-century architecture
collec tion of folk crafts. Walk remaining in Óbuda. On one
back up to busy Flórián tér, side of the square stands the
HERKULES U.
where in 1778 Roman thermal Neo-Baroque Fő tér Palace 0,
e baths were discovered. Hidden its entrance still guarded by
MEGGYFA
UTCA
in the underpasses beneath an 18th-century sentry box.
SZÉL UTCA S Z E N T E N D R EI Ú T the square are the Roman Imre Varga Gallery to
Baths Museum and the Roman
Settlement Museum 7.
the Hercules Villa
VIHAR UTCA RAKTÁR U. Szentlélek Tér and Fő Tér From Fő tér Palace walk up
Laktanya utca, where there is
Tavasz utca, off to the right
a group of statues, Women with
Umbrellas, by contemporary
from north of Flórián tér, leads
KERÉK U. to Szentlélek tér. In the south sculptor Imre Varga q. At No. 7
wing of the Zichy Palace, on
Laktanya utca is the Imre Varga
SZÉL UTCA MIKLÓS U. LAKTANYA UTCA GRÓF ESZTERHÁZY JÁNOS Szentlélek tér, is the Vasarely Gallery w, where fur ther
Museum 8. The 20th-century
examples of the sculptor’s work
artist Victor Vasarely is can be seen. Finally, make your
remembered as the founder way up to Szenten drei út and
w
of the Op-Art movement, cross it at an underpass. Turn
VŐRŐSKERESZT U.
producing work full of bright right into Kerék utca (if you miss
0 q colours and optical illusions. this, take the next right up Szél
VÖRÖSVÁRI ÚT
KORHÁZ U.

TÉR 9 The crumbling Zichy Palace 9 utca), then left into Herkules
SOLYMÁR U.
TESZÁRSZ K. U.
7 TAVASZ UTCA utca then onto Meggyfa utca
SZÕLÕ U.
FÖLD U. FLÓRIÁN 8 to finish the walk at No. 21, the
TÉR
SZENTLÉLEK Árpád híd ruins of the Hercules Villa e.
TÉR
6 5 Once a lavish Roman home,
KISCELLI U. KÁLVIN KŐZ 4 TANULÓ U. Árpád híd it takes its name from some
stunning mosaics (see p23).
KIS KORONA U. ÓBUDAI The villa is open only by
SAN MARCO U.
UTCA 3
arrange ment (Tel (06 1) 430
ZÁPOR U.
KENYERES U. JÓS 2 1081). Near the villa are the
remains of the cella trichora, an
MÓKUS U. UTCA early Christian chapel dating
SELMECI U. SZÕLÕ U. PERC U. LAJOS U. from the 4th century AD.
PACSIRTAMEZŐ UTCA
SZOMOLNOK U. BESZTERCE U. Tips for Walkers
TÍMÁR U. TÍMÁR U. SLACHTA MARGIT RAKPART Starting point: Pacsirtamező utca.
Getting there: Bus 109, hév H5
Tímár u.
VIADOR U. or tram 1.
Length: 3 km (1.8 miles).
BÉCSI ÚT
LAJOS U. Stops: Kéhli Vendéglö (see p206)
on Mókus utca, or the Új Sipos
1 Étterem on Fő tér for traditional
q One of several Women with Umbrellas Hungarian dishes.
by Imre Varga
For keys to symbols see back flap
174-175_EW_Budapest.indd 175 15/09/16 10:33 am

176  bud apest area b y area

A Two-Hour Walk around Margaret Island

Historically inaccessible in the middle of the danube,
Margaret Island was a retreat for religious contem plation from
at least the 11th century onwards. relics of the island’s past Árpád híd
include the remains of two monastic churches and also the
ruins of the convent home of princess Margit, daughter of
King béla IV, who gave the island its name. Opened to the w
public in 1869, Margaret Island is today budapest’s most
beautiful park, a car-free haven of greenery in the middle of
the city and the ideal location for a peaceful stroll. On the D a n u b e
western shore, the palatinus strand bathing complex makes q
use of the mineral-rich hot springs rising on the island. 0

He won gold medals in 9
swimming events in the 1896
Olympic Games and was also 5 The Water Tower
a member of the Hungarian
football team. Turn right and
then left to continue north­
wards, there is a rose garden 8
8 A relief of Archangel Michael on to the right before the ruins
St Michael’s Church of the early 14th­century 5 7
Franciscan Church 3 come into
Centenary Monument to view. Constructed in the Gothic 6
Palatinus Strand style of the time, the church 4
The walk begins amid the peace was originally attached to a
and greenery of the southern tip monastery. Visible in the west
of Margaret Island. Proceeding wall is the doorway which
to the north, the first landmark once led to the organ loft, as
is the Centenary Monument 1 well as a spiral staircase and
(see p66), which stands in front of fine arched window. Further
a sizable fountain. Designed by on is the busy Palatinus
István Kiss, the monument was Strand 4 (see p55). In front HAJÓS ALFRÉD SÉTÁNY 3
made in 1973, to commemorate of the entrance to its
the centenary of the unification pools stands a statue
of the towns of Buda, Óbuda by French sculptor
and Pest (see p34). At night the Emile Guilleaume.
fountain is dramatically illum­
inated. You can also rent four­ Water Tower
wheel family bikes here called to St Michael’s
Bringóhintó. Taking a left turn Church
ahead, the Hajós Olympic Pool Clearly visible to the
Complex 2 (see p55) is soon northeast of Palatinus
reached. Built in 1930, the Strand, is the 57­m (187­
complex was designed by the ft) high Water Tower 5. 2
multi­talented Alfréd Hajós. Built in 1911 and now
protected by UNESCO,
this graceful tower is
currently used as an
exhibition space for a
variety of previously
unexhibited modern
crafts and artworks, D a n u b e 1
ranging from puppets D a n u b e
to paintings. At the foot
of the Water Tower is the
Summer Theatre, a large
modern amphi theatre
seating 3,500 people, which
3 Ruins of the 14th-century hosts a summer season of
Franciscan Church musical performances. To the Margit híd
Margit híd
250 metres / 300 yards


176-177_EW_Budapest.indd 176 05/09/2014 15:48

three guided w alks  177


south east of the
Water Tower are
the ruins of a
13th-century
Dominican Church
and Convent 6.
Árpád híd
The latter was once
home to Princess
w Margit, after whom
the island is named.
King Béla IV (see p25)
D a n u b e succeeded in
swore that if he
q repelling the Mongol
0 invasion of 1241 that
he would offer his q Stepped pathway through the lush foliage of the Japanese Garden
9 daughter to God. He
kept his oath, building built by members of the and streams crossed by rustic
the church and convent, Premonstratensian Order, this is bridges all add to the garden’s
to which the 9-year-old the oldest building on the island. atmosphere. The final stopping
Princess Margit was sent In addition, the foundations of point on the walk is an unusual
in 1251. She led a godly an 11th-century chapel have musical well, known as the
8 and ascetic life and died been excavated inside the 12th Bodor Well w. The original well
here at the age of 29. Nearly century church. Destroyed by was designed and constructed
5 7 300 years later, in 1541, the the invading Turks in 1541, the by Transylvanian Péter Bodor in
nuns of the convent fled church was eventually reconstru- 1820 and stood in the town of
6 to Pozsony (now Bratislava, cted in the 1930s, using materials Marosvásárhely (modern-day
4 capital of the Slovak Republic) from the original building. In the Tirgu Mures, in Romania), which
in the face of the Turkish bell tower hangs a bell which, was then part of the Austro-
invasion, (see pp28–9), leaving unusually, survived the Turkish Hungarian Empire. In 1936 this
the church and the convent invasion. Probably buried by copy was built on Margaret
to be destroyed. Severe floods the monks at the time of the Island. Continuing past the well,
in 1838 led to the discovery invasion, the bell dates from at the northern tip of Margaret
HAJÓS ALFRÉD SÉTÁNY 3 its underground vaults. when its walnut-tree hiding another link from the island
Island the Árpád Bridge provides
the early 15th cen tury.
of the ruined church and
It was discovered in 1914
The tomb of the now-
back to the city.
canonized Margit was
place was uprooted dur-
also excavated here
ing a violent storm.
20 years later. Just
to the north of the Grand Hotel
Dominican Church Margitsziget
and Convent, near to Árpád Bridge
to the Water Tower, The Grand Hotel
is the beginning of Margitsziget 9 was
Artists’ Avenue 7. designed in 1872 by
A collection of 7 Bust of Zsigmond Miklós Ybl (see p123).
contemporary busts Móricz on Artists’ Avenue For many years it was
2 of Hungarian writers, the most fashion able
painters and musicians lines hotel in Budapest, known simply w The musical Bodor Well
this promenade leading up to as “The Grand”. After World War
the Grand Hotel Margitsziget. II, the hotel was modernized Tips for Walkers
A little way before the hotel is and called the Danubius Grand,
St Michael’s Church 8. Originally and in the 1970s the luxurious Starting point: Southern end
Danubius Health Spa Resort of Margaret Island, reached from
Margitsziget 0 was built nearby. Margaret Bridge (híd.
D a n u b e Walk route an underground walkway and Length: 3.3 km (2 miles).
1 Key The two hotels are joined by Getting there: Bus 26. Tram 4, 6.
Stops: There are numerous take-
D a n u b e
offer thermal baths and a variety away kiosks and cafés on the
of spa treatments (see p54).
Heading west from the latter island, selling drinks, snacks and
ice creams. The Danubius Grand
hotel, the final stretch of the
0 metres 500 Hotel and Danubius Health Spa
walk passes beside the Japanese Resort Margitsziget 0 also have
0 yards 500 Garden q. A variety of exotic
Margit híd plants, a rock garden, waterfalls restaurants and cafés.
Margit híd
250 metres / 300 yards
For keys to symbols see back flap
176-177_EW_Budapest.indd 177 05/09/2014 15:48

178  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

A 90-Minute Walk from Buda to Pest

Buda and Pest were unified in 1873, an act made possible by measured. Walk to the centre
the construction of the monumental Chain Bridge some 20 of Chain Bridge 8 (see p66 and
years earlier. Before that, the two areas had shared a relatively p116) and look back towards
common history, but they always retained separate identities. the Castle District. On a clear
Even today, Buda remains more regal and relaxed than day there are glorious views
of the Royal Palace and the
commercial, dynamic Pest. This walk reveals such differences, unmistakable Neo­Gothic
while highlighting the bond that makes Budapest’s whole silhouette of Mátyás Church.
greater even than the sum of its sublime parts.
SZILÁGYI
TÉR
souvenir shops, Széll Kálmán tér SZAL A G U.
before arriving 1 km (0.5 mile)
at Dísz tér and FŐ U.
the Honvéd 1
Monument 2 J PONTY U. S T E H LO G Á B O R R A K P A R T
3 (see p77). TÁRNOK U. FARKAS BÍRÓ U. NÁDOR U.
The monu­ ÚRI U. PALA U. ZRÍNYI U. OKTÓBER 6 U.
ment was HUNYA DI JÁNOS ÚT SZÉCHENYI
raised in DÍSZ ISTVÁN 9 MÉRLEG U.
TÉR
honour of those TÉR 3 FŐ U. J8
who died in the PAL OTA ÚT ÁDÁM TÉR J JÓZSEF ATTILA U.
CLARK
Hungarian revolution S ZT. GÖRGY U. SZÍNHÁZ U. 7 Széchenyi JÓZSEF
lánchíd
of 1848–9. 4 6 DOROTTYA U. NÁDOR BÉCSI U.
TÉR
SZT.
Head south out of GYÖRGY APÁCZAI U. HARMINCAD U.
the square, along stately TÉR 5 SZENDE PÁL U. Vörösmarty
Szinház utca to Sándor J tér
Palace 4 (see p77), one of PALOTA ÚT L Á N C H Í D U .
DEÁK FERENC U.
Buda’s finest buildings and F R I E D R I C H B O R N R A K P A R T 0 w FEHÉR H. U.
2 The terrace and conical towers of the residence of the Hungarian q VIGADÓ SZERVITA
TÉR
Fishermen’s Bastion president. Past the terminus e TÜRR U. VÁCI U. TÉR
of the Sikló, the funicular that Roosevelt APÁCZAI U.
The Castle District links the Royal Palace to the tér to JANE PETŐFI S. U.
The walk begins at the 13th­ embank ment below, an Váci utca RÉGIPOSTA U. PÁRIZSI U.
century Mátyás Church 1 extravagantly ornamental Facing the Pest YBL. M. D a n u b e HANING
TÉR
(see pp86–7), one of the oldest gateway 5 (see p74) leads side of the river PESTI B. U. KÍGYÓ U. ÚT Ferenciek
tere
buildings in Buda, and coro­ from the Habsurg Steps to there are rewarding DÖ B RE NTE I U . r y SAJTÓ
t
nation church of the Hungarian the Royal Palace. A wide vistas too: of Budapest’s RAKPART SZABAD
kings. Directly behind are the path meanders in front of the peerless Parliament VÁCI U. VERES KÁROLYI U.
ramparts of Fishermen’s Bastion palace and offers more fine building (see pp112–13); and DUNA U. CUKOR U.
2 (see p84), from where there views of Pest. of the city’s grandest hotel, DÖBRENTEI IRÁNYI U. PÁLNÉ U. PAPNÖVELDE
u
are famous views across the the Four Seasons Gresham TÉR Erzsébet híd i PÁL U. U.
Danube to Pest. Return past the Across the Danube into Pest Palace 9 (see p118), on the far NYÁRY
main portal of Mátyás Church The path leads down through side of Roosevelt tér. The hotel’s SZERB U. KIRÁLYI PÁL U.
and onto Tárnok utca, running well­kept terraces to Clark astonishingly opulent foyer MOLNÁR U. FEJÉR G. U.
the gauntlet of its myriad Ádam tér, named after the is well worth a visit.
Scottish engineer From Széchenyi István tér, a SALKAHÁZI SÁRA RAKPAR T V ER ES PÁ LNÉ U. BÁSTYA U.
Adam Clark, who walkway runs south next to the R AO U L HAVAS U. VÁCI U.
built the awe­ tram lines on Belgrád Rakpart. SÓ U. K Ö R Ú T
inspiring Chain FŐVAM
TÉR
Bridge and the Tips for Walkers W A L L E N B E R G Fővam V Á M H Á Z o PIPA U.
Neo­Classical Alagút tér SÓHÁZ U.
tunnel 6 (see p104), Starting point: Mátyás Church,
which channels Széll Kálmán tér. R A K P A R T
traffic underneath Getting there: buses 16 and 16A Szabadság hid
the Royal Palace. from Széll Kálmán tér, or tram 2r.
In the centre of the Length: 3.8 km (2 miles). SZENT Szent
Gellért tér
square is the Zero Stops: Gresham Palace Kávéház GELLÉRT
TÉR
Kilometre Stone 7, on Széchenyi István tér, Corso
from which all of Étterem at Vigadó tér 2, or 1000
Hungary’s road Tea at Váci utca 65.
View from Buda to the Parliament Building in Pest distances are
178-179_EW_Budapest.indd 178 15/09/16 10:33 am

THREE GUIDED W ALKS  179


right turn onto Apáczai utca
leads to the Roman remains
of Contra Aquincum r
(see p126), and the Inner City
Parish Church t (see pp128–9),
now sadly hemmed in by the
approach to the Elizabeth
Bridge. Turn right at the
church, and, with the Danube
at your back, head towards
Váci utca to the point where
it crosses the busy Szabadsajtó
SZILÁGYI
TÉR út. Here, the Klotild Palaces
Széll Kálmán tér y (see p131), massive twin
1 km (0.5 mile) SZAL A G U. FŐ U. w The striking architecture of Vigadó Concert Hall on Vigadó tér apartment blocks built on
1 After a short walk, László either side of the road,
provide a splendid gateway
2 J PONTY U. S T E H LO G Á B O R R A K P A R T Marton’s charming sculpture to the bridge.
of a little girl, entitled Little
PALA U. FARKAS BÍRÓ U. ZRÍNYI U. OKTÓBER 6 U. Princess 0 is perched on the Cafés and the Central
NÁDOR U.
TÁRNOK U.
ÚRI U.
SZÉCHENYI railings on the right. Passing Market Hall
ISTVÁN
TÉR 9 the small pier at Vigadó tér q The southern part of Váci
DÍSZ MÉRLEG U.
TÉR FŐ U. J8 (see p130), you cannot miss utca u (see p131) is less
HUNYA DI JÁNOS ÚT
3
CLARK JÓZSEF ATTILA U. the eclectic archi tecture of charming and more
ÁDÁM TÉR Széchenyi J
PAL OTA ÚT
7 lánchíd JÓZSEF Vigadó Concert Hall w on commercial than its northern
SZÍNHÁZ U.
4 6 DOROTTYA U. NÁDOR BÉCSI U. the square’s eastern side. counterpart, but on summer
TÉR
S ZT. GÖRGY U. SZT.
GYÖRGY APÁCZAI U. Nearby, the Budapest Marriott afternoons it is thronged with
TÉR HARMINCAD U.
5 SZENDE PÁL U. Vörösmarty hotel e, a modernist people, many of whom stop
J tér masterpiece, appears to enjoy coffee or something
stronger on its many terraces.
on the left.
0 w DEÁK FERENC U. FEHÉR H. U. Continuing along Halfway along on the right is
PALOTA ÚT
VIGADÓ
q TÉR TÜRR U. SZERVITA the embankment, the hapless St Michael City
L Á N C H Í D U .
TÉR
e VÁCI U. take a left turn Church i, built around 1230,
just before devastated by the Turks in
RÉGIPOSTA U. PÁRIZSI U. Petőfi tér onto 1541, rebuilt in 1701, and finally
F R I E D R I C H B O R N R A K P A R T
APÁCZAI U.
completely renovated from
Régiposta
PETŐFI S. U.
YBL. M. utca. Next, 1964-8. Its unimpressive
TÉR D a n u b e
PESTI B. U. KÍGYÓ U. Ferenciek a sharp exterior belies a rich interior.
SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT bars lead along a widening
tere
r y From here, more cafés and
t
DÖ BRENTEI U .
JANE HANING RAKPART
DUNA U. VÁCI U. IRÁNYI U. CUKOR U. KÁROLYI U. street to Central Market Hall
o (see p211). The largest
VERES PÁLNÉ U.
DÖBRENTEI u market in the city, its stalls
Erzsébet híd i U. sell fruit and vegetables, fish,
TÉR PAPNÖVELDE
NYÁRY PÁL U.
meat and cheese, and
SZERB U. FEJÉR G. U. KIRÁLYI PÁL U. Hungarian crafts.
MOLNÁR U.
BÁSTYA U.
HAVAS U. VÁCI U. SÓ U.
V Á M H Á Z K Ö R Ú T
V ER E S PÁ L N É U .
FŐVAM
SALKAHÁZI SÁRA RAKPAR T
Fővam TÉR o PIPA U.
tér SÓHÁZ U.
Szabadság hid
R AO U L W A L L E N B E R G R A K P A R T
Szent
SZENT Gellért tér
GELLÉRT
TÉR
Key 0 metres 400 u The shops and busy terrace cafés
Walk route 0 yards 400 of Váci utca
For keys to symbols see back flap
178-179_EW_Budapest.indd 179 15/09/16 10:33 am

180-181_EW_Budapest.indd 180 05/09/2014 15:34
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Date 15th November 2012
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Travellers’


needs





Where to Stay 182–189

Where to Eat and Drink 190–209
Shops and Markets 210–213
Entertainment in Budapest 214–219

















































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182  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO STAY

Budapest’s stock of accommodation is vast, (see p185) can provide details on places to
and it’s possible to find something to suit all stay. The hotels on pages 186–9 include a
tastes and budgets. Luxury and design hotels selection of the best luxury, design, historic,
lead the way, though in this city of thermal spa, pension and business accommodation
springs, spa hotels are also plentiful. Cheaper in Budapest, listed by area and in order of
accommodation can be found in hotels price category to help you choose the right
outside the city centre, as well as in the hotel. Some entries are highlighted as DK
growing number of pensions and hostels. Choice, which are establishments that offer
Travel agents and tourist information offices a truly memorable stay.

Hotel and Pension
Classification
Hotels are classified in five
categories from one to
five stars.
At the luxury end of the
scale – the five­star and four­
star hotels – all rooms have a
bathroom, a telephone, a TV,
a radio and a refrigerator, air
conditioning and Wi­Fi. The
majority of these hotels offer
24­hour service, including
meals that can be brought to
the room, as well as business
and fitness facilities. Three­star
hotels usually have at least one
Impressive façade of the Four Seasons Gresham Palace (see p187) restaurant and one bar, and
staff are expected to speak at
Where to Look Hotels located further out least one foreign language,
When deciding on accommo­ of town are usually an easy though both English and
dation, first choose the general journey from the city centre, German are common. Two­
location: Buda or Pest, or maybe particularly since they are thirds of the rooms in two­star
even the picturesque suburbs often situated close to hotels have their own shower
further afield. The greatest metro stations. or bath, while rooms in one­
concentration of accommo­ Budapestinfo (see p185) is star hotels simply have wash­
dation is in low­lying Pest, a chain of tourist offices that basins with hot and cold
where many hotels are literally provide information (in several running water.
only a few steps away from languages) on accommodation Accommodation in pensions
most of the major tourist and places to eat, as well as on is generally clean and simple,
attractions. Many luxury hotels tourist and cultural events. though usually very homely,
are sited here, such as the Sofitel Maps can be found on sale with all the necessary services
Budapest Chain Bridge (see p188), here, as well as free booklets and amenities provided by
set along the eastern bank of and pamphlets. friendly and helpful staff.
the Danube, while others, such
as the Marriott (see p188) or the
Kempinski Corvinus (see p188) are
situated nearer to the centre of
Pest, close to the theatres and
shops. You’ll also find most of
the city’s hostels in Pest.
There is a decent selection
of hotels across the Danube
on the Buda side, with many
possessing spa facilities.
Pensions abound here too,
particularly up in the hills, where
visitors can enjoy cool, fresh air
and quiet surroundings. Spacious twin room at the Hilton Budapest Hotel (see p188)
Atrium and lobby at the luxurious New York Palace, Budapest



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WHERE T O ST A Y  183


making international telephone
calls from your room.
Most hotels have their own
car parks. Some, such as the
Sofitel Budapest Chain Bridge
(see p188) or the Victoria Hotel
(see p186), offer off-street or
garage parking, for which a
modest fee may be charged.

How to Book
The Budapest tourist season
starts in the middle of June and
lasts until the end of September.
Opulent guest room at the Buddha-Bar Hotel Budapest Klotild Palace (see p187) During this period, but part-
icularly around New Year
Hotel Prices
Prices in Budapest’s hotels and and the Formula 1 Hungarian
Room tariffs reflect the hotel pensions are usually quoted in Grand Prix weekend (see p63),
classification, though with online euros, but you can pay in forints. hotels can be booked months
booking now prevalent, there in advance. Otherwise, it is
are some great deals to be had if Hidden Extras advisable to book at least two
you book far enough in advance, weeks ahead. Nearly all hotels
even amongst the luxury hotels. Both VAT and resort tax are accept bookings made via
Generally speaking, however, included in the price of the online booking systems.
a centrally located, higher room (resort tax is charged It is possible to find
category hotel will be much because Budapest is classed as accommodation without
more expensive than in an out- a health resort), but there are booking in advance, but rooms
of-town, lower category hotel. often hidden surcharges that may be harder to come by,
Relatively cheap rooms can be can greatly increase the overall especially in high season.
found in pensions, and even cost of a stay. Avoid, for Bookings can be made in the
cheaper ones in hostels, many of example, hotel currency tourist offices at the airport or
which now offer double rooms. exchange desks, which offer at any of the Tourist Information
Hotel prices usually include a poor rate of exchange, and offices located in the city centre.
breakfast, which in hotels with
three stars or more typically
means a self-service buffet.
Pensions also offer good value
meals. Hostels may charge extra
for breakfast.
Many luxury hotels offer
substantial weekend reductions
in the low season (mid-
September to mid-March).
During this period a three-night
stay would cost the same as a
two-night stay during the high
season. Guests can also stay an
extra night free of charge.
In spa hotels, such as the
Danubius Hotel Gellért (see
p187), which offer hydrotherapy,
the fee for using the pools and
sauna is included in the room
price. However, any treatments,
such as massage, will incur an
extra charge. Check these details
with the hotel in advance.
Note that prices are often
ramped up massively over the
Christmas and New Year period,
as well as around the time of
the Formula 1 Hungarian Grand
Prix and the Sziget Festival. Stained-glass window in the Danubius Hotel Gellért (see p187)




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184  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Staying in Private
Rooms and Apartments
Accommodation in a private
room usually consists of a
separate bedroom and use
of a kitchen and bathroom.
The price depends on the
facilities and the area, and varies
from 6,000–12,000 Hungarian
forints (€20-€40) per day for a
double room and upwards of
6,000 forints (€20) for a single.
IBUSZ is the most reputable
agency through which this
type of accommodation can
be booked.
Renting an apartment is
economical for longer stays.
As well as using agencies to find
Stylish reception area at the La Prima Fashion Hotel (see p186) private apart ments, it is worth
checking the albérlet (to rent)
Travelling with Children
There are also some speci ally advert isements in newspapers
Most hotels welcome children converted buildings that consist such as Expressz and Hirdetés
and offer free accommodation solely of self-catering apartments. and on the Internet.
to those up to the age of four The Charles Apartment Hotel is
travelling with their parents. a good example of this type of Camping
Additional beds can often be accommodation; the apartments
provided for older children in the are spacious and well-equipped. Camping is only permitted at
parents’ room for a small extra designated campsites, of which
charge. Many higher-end hotels Hostels there are several on the outskirts
also offer a child-minding service. of Budapest, such as Zugligeti
Budapest possesses a huge Niche Camping. The biggest
number of hostels, and for and most picturesque is Római
Disabled Travellers
visitors on a tight budget, these Camping, which is located on
Budapest has been slow to provide good, if basic, low-cost the road leading from Óbuda to
acknowledge the needs of accommodation. As well as Szentendre. Campsites are open,
the disabled traveller, though dormitories, many offer single, in general, from May until the
specialist facilities are gradually double and family rooms, often end of October. Some operations,
being introduced throughout with en-suite facilities. Marco such as Haller Camping,
the city. Nearly all new hotels Polo Hostel and the Citadella, are open only from May to
now have rooms for disabled which is situated in the Citadel September, while others remain
guests, while some of the older on Gellért Hill (see pp96–7), are open throughout the year.
ones continue to adapt their just two examples. Most hostels
existing facilities. Further are open all year, though
information is best obtained during the summer vacation
directly from the hotel before in July and August, many
making your booking. students’ halls of residence
are turned into hostels, adding
approximately 4,000 beds to
Self-Catering
Budapest’s accommodation
A few hotels in Budapest, list and providing tourists with
especially those in the embassy a convenient and inexpensive
district, offer accommodation place to stay.
in suites with kitchenettes. Given their popularity, it is
This type of accommodation advisable to book a hostel
is particularly good for families room in advance. This is best
as it gives them the option of done online via the Mellow
eating “at home”, rather than Mood Travel Agency or hostel
eating every meal at a restaurant. booking companies such as
An other advantage is, of course, www.hostels.com or www.
the extra space, which allows hostelworld.com. International
greater freedom of movement; Youth Hostels Organisation
often hotel suites in Budapest members get a discount on Stunning light installation in the lobby of
are equal in size to an apartment. rates with a membership card. the Hilton Budapest City (see p188)




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WHERE T O ST A Y  185

Recommended Hotels which is also where the majority be it distinguished rooms,
The accommodation on of business and chain hotels cutting­edge amenities,
pages 186–9 is listed under are situated. fantastic views or first­class
six categories: Luxury, Design, Any establishment high­ service, though it is typically
Historic, Spa, Pension and lighted as a DK Choice offers a a combination of some or all
Business/Chain. Budapest is singularly unique experience, of these aspects.
home to an abundance of
luxury hotels, all of which offer
a supreme level of comfort
as well as comprehensive
facilities. Thanks to Budapest’s
wealth of grand architecture,
historic accommodation
is also plentiful, and there
is a proliferation of brilliantly
conceived design hotels
throughout the city. Spa hotels
are big business in Budapest,
which is not surprising given
that the city sits on more than
a hundred springs. More
affordable are the plethora of
pensions located in the Buda
Hills and around the city fringes, Swimming pool and spa at the Boscolo Budapest (see p187)
DIRECTORY
Information City Centre Sütő u. Hostels Private Rooms
1052 Budapest, Sütő u. 2. and Apartments
Hungarian National Open 8am–10pm. Back Pack
Tourist Office (UK) Guesthouse IBUSZ Travel
Embassy of the Republic Agencies XI, Takács Menyhért 1051 Budapest, József
of Hungary, 46 Eaton utca 33. Attila utca 20.
Place, London SW1X 8AL. IBUSZ Travel Agency Map 3 B5.
Map 2 E5.
Tel 020 7823 1055. 1053 Budapest, Tel (06 1) 385 89 46. Tel (06 1) 501 49 10/11.
∑ gotohungary.co.uk Ferenciek tere 2. ∑ backpackbudapest.
∑ ibusz.hu
Hungarian National Map 2 E5. hu
Tourist Office (US) Tel (06 1) 501 49 13. Boat Hostel Fortuna Camping
447 Broadway, Fifth Floor, ∑ ibusz.hu 1137 Szent István Park,
Manhattan, New York, NY Alsó rakpart. Haller Camping
Mellow Mood
10013. Tel 212 695 1221. Travel Agency Map 2 D1. 1096 Budapest,
∑ gotohungary.com Tel (06 1) 288 81 00. Haller utca 27.
1077 Budapest, ∑ fortunahajo.hu Tel (06 1) 476 34 18.
Budapestinfo Points Baross tér 15.
Airport Terminal 2A Map 7 C2. Citadella ∑ hallercamping.hu
Liszt Ferenc Budapest Tel (06 1) 343 07 48. 1118 Budapest, Római Camping
Airport Terminal 2A. Citadella sétány. 1031 Budapest,
∑ hostels.hu
Open 8am–10pm. Map 4 D3. Szentendrei út 189.
Airport Terminal 2B Self-Catering Tel (06 1) 466 57 94. Tel (06 1) 388 71 67.
Liszt Ferenc Budapest ∑ citadella.hu ∑ romaicamping.hu
Charles Apartment
Airport Terminal 2B. Marco Polo Hostel
Open 10am–10pm. Hotel 1072 Budapest, Zugligeti Niche
1016 Budapest, Camping
City Centre Liszt Nyár utca 6.
Ferenc tér Hegyalja út 23. Map 7 A3. 1121 Budapest,
1061 Budapest, Liszt Map 3 B2 (9 B5). Tel (06 1) 413 25 55. Zugligeti útca 101.
Ferenc tér 11. Tel (06 1) 212 91 69. ∑ marcopolohostel. Tel (06 1) 200 83 46.
Open noon–8pm. ∑ charleshotel.hu com ∑ campingniche.hu





184-185_EW_Budapest.indd 185 15/09/16 10:33 am

186  Tr a vellers ’ Needs

Where to Stay

Cotton House  Price Guide
Design Jókai utca 26 Prices are based on one night’s stay in
Castle District Tel (06 1) 354 2600 Map 2 F3 high season for a standard double room,
inclusive of service charges and taxes.
∑ cottonhouse.hu
Baltazár  With some of the best and most  up to 25,000 forints
Országház utca 31 thoughtfully decorated rooms  25,000–50,000 forints
Tel (06 1) 300 7051 Map 1 A4 anywhere in the capital, all  over 50,000 forints
∑ baltazarbudapest.com named after famous people, this
Artful rooms inspired by the likes hotel is full of character.
of Warhol and Westwood, with Gerlóczy 
clever extras like music systems Home Made Hostel  Gerlóczy utca 1
that link into your smartphone. Teréz körút 22 Tel (06 1) 501 4000 Map 4 F1
Tel (06 1) 302 2103 Map 2 F3 ∑ gerloczy.hu
DK Choice ∑ homemadehostel.com Spread over three floors, the
Superbly conceived, rustically
variously coloured rooms (red,
Buda Castle Fashion styled hostel with bags of charm green and grey) feature beautifully
Hotel  and first-rate facilities including designed fixtures and fittings.
Úri utca 39 a fabulous kitchen.
Tel (06 1) 224 7900 Map 1 B4 La Prima Fashion Hotel 
∑ budacastlehotelbudapest.com Piarista utca 6
This sublime 15th-century Central Pest Tel (06 1) 799 0088 Map 4 E1
merchant’s house has been ∑ laprimahotelbudapest.com
converted into one of the city’s Bohem Art Hotel  An effortlessly stylish hotel with
leading hotels, presenting a mix Molnár utca 35 plush rooms equipped with a
of spacious rooms and luxurious Tel (06 1) 327 9020 Map 4 E2 host of mod cons.
mini-suites, all smartly furnished; ∑ bohemarthotel.hu
the highlight, though, is taking Former factory, now a high-class Zara Boutique 
breakfast in the impeccably boutique hotel offering compact, Só utca 6
manicured garden courtyard. creatively designed rooms. Great Tel (06 1) 577 0700 Map 4 F2
location and friendly staff. ∑ boutiquehotelbudapest.com
Rooms are modestly sized but
Lánchíd 19  Cosmo City Hotel  impressively turned out at this
Lánchíd utca 19 Váci utca 77 understatedly cool, and very
Tel (06 1) 419 1900 Map 1 C5 Tel (06 1) 799 0077 Map 4 F2 central, hotel.
∑ lanchid19hotel.hu ∑ cosmohotelbudapest.com
A superb waterside location, with At this brilliantly central hotel the Continental Hotel Zara 
suspended glass walkways and warm and amply sized rooms are Dohány utca 42-44
colourful rooms. a riot of bold colours. Tel (06 1) 815 1000 Map 7 A3
∑ continentalhotelbudapest.com
Estilo Fashion Hotel  An Art Deco inspired hotel with a
North of the Váci utca 83 huge range of amenities, includ-
Castle District Tel (06 1) 799 7170 Map 4 F2 ing a beautiful rooftop garden.
∑ estilohotelbudapest.com
art’otel  Rooms at this enchanting hotel Soho 
Bem rakpart 16–19 are lively, fresh and modern, if a Dohány utca 64
Tel (06 1) 487 9487 Map 1 C4 little on the small side. Tel (06 1) 872 8292 Map 7 B2
∑ artotels.com ∑ sohoboutiquehotel.com
From the artwork decorating the A spectacular Pop Art lobby leads
walls, to the carpets and china- to funky rooms with bamboo
ware, the individually designed covered walls and Swedish
rooms are extremely tasteful. hardwood floors.
Victoria Hotel  Around Városliget
Bem rakpart 11
Tel (06 1) 457 8080 Map 1 C4 Atrium Fashion Hotel 
∑ victoria.hu Csokonai utca 14
Small hotel with big rooms, many Tel (06 1) 299 0777 Map 7 B3
with superlative river views from ∑ atriumhotelbudapest.com
the floor-to-ceiling windows. This cleverly conceived hotel
offers bright rooms arrayed
Around Parliament around a high glass atrium.
Aventura Boutique Hostel  Royal Park Boutique Hotel 
Visegrádi utca 12 Nefelejcs utca 6
Tel (06 1) 239 0782 Map 2 E2 Tel (06 1) 872 8888 Map 7 C1
∑ aventurahostelbudapest.com ∑ royalparkboutiquehotel.hu
There are four fantastic loft rooms An imposing glass and brick
at this agreeable, family-run building awash with style and
hostel, each one reflecting a Stunning atrium at the Four Seasons colour, from the dazzling lobby
different country or culture. Gresham Palace to the accomplished rooms.
186-189_EW_Budapest.indd 186 05/09/2014 15:47

Where t o S t AY  187

Mirage Fashion Hotel 
Dózsa György út 88
Tel (06 1) 462 7070 Map 5 C4
∑ miragehotelbudapest.com
This grand19th-century villa
overlooking Heroes’ Square offers
sophisticated rooms.

Historic
Castle District
St George’s Residence
Hotel 
Fortuna utca 4
Tel (06 1) 393 5700 Map 1 B4
∑ stgeorgehotel.hu
A medieval inn accommodating The piano room at the beautifully furnished Brody House
a stunning selection of suites
furnished in Grand Empire style. DK Choice Spa
Brody House 
North of the Bródy Sándor utca 10 Gellért Hill and Tabán
Castle District Tel (06 1) 266 1211 Map 7 A4 Danubius Hotel Flamenco 
∑ brodyhouse.com Tas vezér utca 3-7
Antique Hostel  Named after the eponymous Tel (06 1) 889 5600 Map 3 C5
Iskola utca 31 Hungarian writer, this unique ∑ danubiushotels.com
Tel (06 1) 580 0056 Map 1 C3 residence has been fashioned This good value hotel offers
∑ antiquehostel.eu into a super-cool retreat. smart rooms and a terrific
A splendid late 18th-century It offers eight wonder fully breakfast served in the Bolero
house that is now a lively idiosyncratic, artistically restaurant. Indoor swimming
hostel with doubles, multi and themed rooms, each one pool with sauna and solarium.
family rooms. named after the artist whose
studio it once was. Danubius Hotel Gellért 
Around Parliament Szent Gellért tér 1 Map 4 D2
Tel (06 1) 889 5500
Casati Budapest Hotel  ∑ danubiushotels.com
DK Choice Paulay Ede utca 31 Map 2 F4 Legendary spa hotel with indoor
and outdoor pools, and an array
Tel (06 1) 343 1198
Four Seasons ∑ casatibudapesthotel.com of treatments. The rooms are a bit
Gresham Palace  In this eighteenth-century dated, but this adds to their charm.
Széchenyi István tér 5-6 apartment block with stripped-
Tel (06 1) 268 6000 Map 2 D5 back walls, good-looking rooms
∑ fourseasons.com overlook a pretty courtyard. Central Pest
Following extensive restoration,
this magnificent building is Hotel Palazzo Zichy  DK Choice
now one of the finest hotels in Lőrinc pap tér 2
Central Europe. The rooms are Tel (06 1) 235 4000 Map 7 B4 Boscolo Budapest 
complete, unbridled luxury, the ∑ hotel-palazzo-zichy.hu Erzsébet körút 9
staff are impeccable and the A flamboyant hotel in the one- Tel (06 1) 886 6111 Map 7 B2
whole place is a real treat. Don’t time residence of the ∑ budapest.boscolohotels.com
miss the Kavehaz Restaurant. eponymous Count. Stylish rooms. Built in 1894 and now
magnifi cently restored, the
Buddha-Bar Hotel rooms are the height of
Central Pest Budapest Klotild Palace  luxury, while the main hall is
something to marvel at. Once
Váci utca 34
Danubius Astoria Hotel  Tel (06 1) 799 7300 Map 4 E1 a hub of literary life, the gilded
Kossuth Lajos utca 19 ∑ buddhabarhotelbudapest.com domes of the Coffee House
Tel (06 1) 889 6000 Map 4 F1 Occupying the magnificent make for the perfect spot to
∑ danubiushotels.com former palace, this place is almost while away an hour or so.
A grand, Secessionist-style hotel overwhelming in its opulence.
with atmospheric rooms and a
Neo-Baroque breakfast room.
Around Városliget Further Afield
Nemzeti  Three Corners Hotel Bristol  The Aquincum Hotel 
József körút 4 Kenyérmező utca 4 Árpád fejedelem útja 94
Tel (06 1) 477 2001 Map 7 B3 Tel (06 1) 799 1100 Map 7 C2 Tel (06 1) 436 4100
∑ accorhotels.com ∑ threecorners.com ∑ aquincumhotel.com
Concealed behind the powder While the rooms aren’t quite as A massive hotel with a host of
blue façade lies a grand staircase impressive as the façade, this is great facilities, including pools,
leading to sumptuous rooms. still a decent option with good fitness and steam baths. Rooms
Friendly and helpful staff. transport links to the city centre. are tastefully decorated.
For more information on types of hotels see page 185
186-189_EW_Budapest.indd 187 05/09/2014 15:47

188  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Danubius Health Spa Hotel Parlament  Around Városliget
Resort Helia  Kálmán Imre utca 19 Mamaison Hotel
Kárpát utca 62-64 Tel (06 1) 374 60 00 Map 2 E3 Andrassy 
Tel (06 1) 889 58 00 ∑ parlament-hotel.hu Andrássy út 111
∑ danubiushotels.com Posh but not pompous, the Tel (06 1) 462 21 00 Map 5 B4
Situated on the bank of the Danube, first-rate facilities here include a ∑ mamaison.com
the resort offers a full range of wellness centre, library room and Elegance and charm abound at
health and beauty facilities. lounge bar. Chic, stylish rooms. this tasteful hotel. The rooms are
spacious and comfy. Free Wi-Fi.
Danubius Health Spa K&K Hotel Opera 
Resort Margitsziget  Révay utca 24
Margitsziget Tel (06 1) 269 02 22 Map 2F4
Tel (06 1) 889 47 00 ∑ kkhotels.com Business/Chain
∑ danubiushotels.com Behind the splendid façade, the Gellért Hill and Tabán
Hosting one of Europe’s largest rooms are modern, immaculately
wellness centres, this island turned out and spacious. Best Western Orion 
hotel sits atop a natural spring. Döbrentei utca 13
All rooms have balconies. Sofitel Budapest Tel (06 1) 356 85 83 Map 4 D1
Chain Bridge  ∑ bestwestern.com
Ramada Resort Aquaworld  Széchenyi tér 2 This secluded hotel offers clean,
Íves út 16 Tel (06 1) 266 12 34 Map 2 D5 plainly decorated rooms, as well
Tel (06 1) 231 36 00 ∑ sofitel.com as a good, small restaurant.
∑ ramadaresortbudapest.hu Most of the rooms here have
Facilities here include a large outstanding views of Castle Hill. Mercure Budapest Buda 
indoor water park, an oriental- There are several elegant Krisztina körút 41–43
style fitness and wellness centre restaurants on site. Tel (06 1) 488 81 00 Map 1 A5
and a large playground for kids. ∑ accorhotels.com
Central Pest Neat, clean rooms come with all
the necessary amenities and the
Queens Court Hotel  location is terrific. Friendly staff.
Luxury Dob utca 63
Castle District Tel (06 1) 882 30 00 Map 7 A2 North of the
∑ queenscourthotelbudapest.
Hilton Budapest Hotel  com Castle District
Hess András tér 1–3 A range of high class suites and
Tel (06 1) 889 66 00 Map 1 B4 serviced apartments are available, Hotel Regnum
∑ budapest.hilton.com all with attendant amenities. Residence 
This remarkable new-old Ganz utca 8
building, perched high above Corinthia Grand Hotel  Tel (06 1) 265 50 90 Map 1 C2
the Danube, offers superb views Erzsébet körút 43 ∑ regnumresidence.hu
from the rooms. Tel (06 1) 479 40 00 Map 7 A2 Rooms and suites with floor-to-
∑ corinthia.com ceiling windows and plush furn-
From the distinguished façade ishings are on offer at this hotel.
Around Parliament and glittering lobby to the
Iberostar Grand Hotel  mahogany-furnished rooms,
Október 6 utca 26 the Corinthia oozes class. Around Parliament
Tel (06 1) 354 30 50 Map 2 E4 City Hotel 
∑ iberostar.com Kempinski Corvinus  Szent István körút 22
The supremely luxurious rooms Erzsébet tér 7–8 Tel (06 1) 340 54 50 Map 7 A1
here feature huge bathrooms, Tel (06 1) 429 33 77 Map 2 E5 ∑ cityhotel.hu
high ceilings and large windows. ∑ kempinski.com The modern, comfortable rooms
This grand, classy hotel is a at this hotel are matched by a
favourite with the rich and famous, cheerful and obliging staff.
who are drawn to its large and
expensively furnished rooms. Hilton Budapest City 
Váci út 1–3
Marriott  (inside WestEnd City Center)
Apáczai Csere János utca 4 Tel (06 1) 288 55 00 Map 2 F2
Tel (06 1) 486 50 00 Map 4 E1 ∑ budapestcity.hilton.com
∑ marriottbudapest.com Next to the hubbub of the
Banqueting rooms, three restau- shopping mall, this oasis of calm
rants and a fitness centre are all offers the usual Hilton mix of
features here. Rooms offer lovely modernity and service.
river views.
Radisson Blu Béke 
Zenit Budapest Teréz körút 43
Palace  Tel (06 1) 889 39 00 Map 2 F3
Apáczai Csere János utca 7 ∑ radissonblu.com
Tel (06 1) 799 84 00 Map 4 E1 The rooms at this magnificently
∑ budapest.zenithoteles.com restored hotel come equipped
This grandly titled hotel features with the latest facilities. Check
Striking modern exterior of the slick immac ulate rooms decked out in out the exterior mosaic of St
Expo Congress Hotel a beige and grey colour scheme. George and the Dragon.
Key to Price Guide see page 186
186-189_EW_Budapest.indd 188 21/10/2016 17:10

WHERE T O ST A Y  189

Further Afield
Alfréd Panzió 
Vasút sor 20
Tel (06 1) 436 93 16
∑ alfredpanzio.hu
Situated on a residential street
close to the Széchenyi Baths, this
cosy guesthouse is well-connected
to the art town of Szentendre.
DK Choice
Beatrix Panzió 
Széher út 3
Tel (06 1) 275 05 50
∑ beatrixhotel.hu
A warm welcome is assured
One of the oppulent guest rooms at Boscolo Budapest (see p187) at this homely pension in the
peaceful and leafy villa district.
Central Pest city landmark. The tasteful rooms The rooms are spacious and
Budapest Museum Central  have stunning views of the tastefully decorated. There are
1053 Budapest Muzeum korut 39 nearby Buda Castle. Sauna and regular grill and goulash parties
Tel (06 1) 266 78 68 Map 4 F2 free Wi-Fi available. held in the pretty, landscaped
∑ budapestmuseumcentral.com garden. Breakfast can be
This restored 19th-century building enjoyed on the terrace in
with well-equipped, pleasant summer. Good transport links
rooms, all featuring high ceilings, Pension to the city centre.
is located in the heart of the city.
Castle District
Mercure Museum  Budavár Panzió  Buda Villa Panzió 
Trefort utca 2 Szabó Ilonka utca 15 Kiss Áron utca 6
Tel (06 1) 485 10 80 Map 7 A3 Tel (06 1) 201 56 86 Map 1 B4 Tel (06 1) 275 00 91
∑ accorhotels.com ∑ budavar-pension.com ∑ budapansio.hu
The older, Italian-influenced half At this bright little pension in A delightful lounge bar and well-
of this welcoming hotel is comple- the heart of Buda, the rooms all presented tidy rooms, but the best
mented by a sleeker modern part. feature balconies that offer super aspect is the wonderful garden.
river views.
Around Városliget Hotel Manzard Panzió 
Bláthy Ottó utca 21
Best Western Hotel Hungaria  Gellért Hill and Tabán Tel (06 1) 210 41 41
Rákóczi út 90 Ábel Panzió  ∑ manzardpanzio.com
Tel (06 1) 889 44 00 Map 7 C2 Ábel Jenő utca 9 Located in a pleasant neighbour-
∑ danubiushotels.com Tel (06 1) 209 25 37 Map 3 B4 hood, this laid-back pension
For small but comfortable rooms ∑ abelpanzio.hu sports pine furnished rooms
at a reasonable price, this vibrant This early-1900s villa boasts ten and a great outdoor pool.
hotel offers a range of facilites. rooms of considerable charm,
Minibar and free Wi-Fi. as well as a drawing room and Hotel Pension Helios 
a garden terrace. The decor is Lidérc utca 5
Hotel Ibis Heroes Square  casual, and beautiful Hungarian Tel (06 1) 246 46 58
Dózsa György út 106 artwork can be found in the rooms. ∑ heliospanzio.hu
Tel (06 1) 269 53 00 Map 5 C3 Most of the rooms in this orderly
∑ accorhotels.com Central Pest pension have unbeatable views.
This bright, modern hotel offers In a picturesque spot elevated
pleasant rooms, a sauna, solarium Leo Panzió  above the city in a quiet area.
and rent-a-bike. Buffet breakfast. Kossuth Lajos utca 2/a Great breakfast, excellent staff.
Tel (06 1) 266 90 41 Map 4 F1
∑ leopanzio.hu Mohácsi Panzió 
Further Afield Facilities such as TVs, private Bimbó út 25a
Expo Congress Hotel  bathrooms and air conditioning Tel (06 1) 326 77 41
Expo tér 2 make this a charming little ∑ hotelmohacsipanzio.hu
Tel (06 1) 263 68 00 pension. A complimentary buffet This small, pleasant and
∑ expohotelbudapest.com breakfast is included. inexpensive pension offers well-
The rooftop spa and Sky Bar at equipped rooms, the pick of
this slick hotel more than make up Around Városliget which are on the upper floor.
for the drab location. The rooms
are decorated in warm colours. Dominik Panzió  Vadvirág Panzió 
Cházár András utca 3 Nagybányai út 18
Hotel Budapest  Tel (06 1) 460 94 28 Map 8 E1 Tel (06 1) 275 02 00
Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor 47 ∑ centralhotel21.hu ∑ hotelvadviragpanzio.hu
Tel (06 1) 889 42 00 Set over three floors, the private, At this neat, family-owned
∑ danubiushotels.com dormitory-style rooms are clean pension in a quiet, green district,
Distinguished by its cylindrical and simple. Bathrooms and some rooms have balconies.
shape, this venerable hotel is a toilets are shared. There’s a terrace and sauna, too.
For more information on types of hotels see page 185
186-189_EW_Budapest.indd 189 21/10/2016 17:10

190  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Following a visit to Budapest, the Nobel Prize- the present day, and allied to the fact that
winning Latin American writer Miguel Ángel Hungary now produces some of central
Asturias said that “the exquisite taste of Europe’s finest wines, it’s not difficult to
Hungarian cuisine is a language understood see why Budapest has become a serious
by all”. While classic traditional Hungarian foodie destination.
cooking can still be found all over the city, The most typical examples of traditional
it has been the evolution of contemporary Hungarian cooking can be seen on pages
Hungarian, as well as international, cooking 192–3, while information on what to drink
that has really transformed Budapest’s is given on pages 194–5. A detailed guide
culinary landscape. A clutch of younger, to the city’s best restaurants is provided
more dynamic Hungarian chefs have on pages 196–207. Pubs, bars and nightlife
brought age-old dishes and recipes into can be found on pages 208–9.
Where to Look The best places for al fresco What to Order
There are large numbers of dining are Liszt Ferenc tér, Ordering a Hungarian meal may
superb eating establishments all which runs off Andrássy út, not be as simple as it may first
over the city and the surrounding not far from Oktogon metro seem. There are many different
suburbs. Central Pest has by far station; Ráday utca, which varieties of Hungarian soups,
the greatest concentration of starts at Kálvin tér; and Gozsdu some of which are a meal in
places to eat, though central udvar (Gozsdu Court) which themselves. Bogrács,
Buda, and in particular the is in the heart of the Jewish which is often served
Castle District, has its fair share disctrict. All these areas in a kettle, and
of decent restaurants. The city’s are full of cosy bean soups are
main tourist areas, like Váci utca restaurants, bars and the heartiest and
(see p131), are well off for places cafés, and attract a would normally be
to eat and drink, but often these youthful clientele. followed by a light
do not equate to particularly dish or pancakes.
good value for money. The rather Hungarian fish soup is
annoying practice of touting for Types of a particular speciality
Restaurants,
business is also very prominent and owes its red colour
here. Other wise, it is often worth Cafés and Bars Lantern to paprika. This should
looking off the main roads or The differences outside the be followed by delicate
away from popular areas to find between the types of Gerbeaud homemade pasta served
establish ments frequented by establishments can be Cukrászda with crackling, cheese
local Budapest residents. For real subtle, but they break and cream. There are also
high-end dining, you can’t beat down roughly into the many light soups, or small
the top hotels, like the Gresham following types: Étterem simply portions of the more substantial
Palace or Le Meridien. means restaurant, in which any soups, which can be eaten as a
type of cuisine may be served. starter, thus leaving room for
A csárda comes in various the main course.
forms, though most are folksy The archetypal Hungarian
restaurants typically offering main dish is goulash soup
interesting local specialities – a (gulyás leves) and there are
halászcsárda, meanwhile, will several versions of the basic
offer mainly fish dishes and thick meat stew. Another
soups. There are two types of Hungarian speciality is pörkölt
inn, a vendéglő, which has an (a paprika stew very similar to
informal, typically rustic goulash). This stew is made with
ambience, and a kisvendéglő, all sorts of meat, typically veal,
(literally a “small inn”), which is pork, poultry and game. Often,
similar to a cosy pub. Cafés meals are eaten with bread; the
range from a kávéház (coffee white wheat variety is the most
house), which include Budapest’s popular amongst Hungarians
great literary coffee houses of and it is particularly delicious.
the early twentieth century, to a Food served in bars or
cukrászda (patisserie). Types of bought from butchers’ shops
bars include a borozó, a söröző typically involves spicy
Luxurious banquette seating at La Pampa and an eszpresszó – though sausages, liberally seasoned
Steakhouse (see p200) these often serve food too. with paprika and garlic, grilled




190-191_EW_Budapest.indd 190 15/09/16 10:33 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.8)
Date 15th May 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  191

Tipping
chicken or various smoked
meats. Another alternative is In some restaurants, a service
the delicious lángos charge is included in the final
(pronounced “langosh”), a flat, bill, in others it is customary to
salty, fried yeast dough. It is tip. If a service charge is added,
traditionally eaten with garlic this should be stated on either
oil or sour cream and cheese. the menu or the bill; this could
For more detailed be up to 15 per cent. However,
information on the types of if there is any doubt, it is always
food available in the city, courteous to leave a tip. In
including local dishes and general, an acceptable tip is
specialities, see The Flavours of between 10–15 per cent of the
Budapest on pages 192–3. cost of the meal.
Vegetarian Food Dining on the deck overlooking a lake at Children
Although vegetarian cuisine Hemingway (see p196) Children are welcomed in most
per se is not found in abundance Menus and Prices restaurants without exception,
in Budapest, there are a growing though the higher-end
number of vegetarian Most Hungarian restaurants establishments might be a little
restaurants scattered around display a menu by the entrance, sniffy at their presence. If
the city. Moreover, meat-free and it is usually translated into children’s portions do not appear
dishes can be found on most English or German. The name of on the menu, the chef will
Hungarian menus. Főzelék is a the dish is generally followed by prepare suitable dishes to order.
vegetable dish that you can a brief description. The day’s These are usually charged at
order on its own, or optionally “specials” – a set meal consisting about 70 per cent of the price.
with a slice of meat, a sausage of a soup, a main course and a The only exception is dessert,
or an egg. Lecsó, a type of dessert – are listed at the head but this can often be shared.
ragout, is another popular of the menu. Set menus are However, the desserts are so
vegetable side dish that makes often very good value and delicious that most children will
a substantial meal by itself. provide an ideal opportunity for happily eat a whole portion.
There are also many sweet and visitors to sample several
savoury palacsinta (pancakes). Hungarian specialities.
The prices should also be Recommended
Restaurants
displayed, but if they are not,
Reserving a Table
go elsewhere or at least ask to The restaurants in this guide are
It is really only necessary to see the prices, including any divided into seven geographical
book in advance at Budapest’s surcharges, before ordering areas: Castle District, North of
more exclusive restaurants. the meal. In most Hungarian the Castle District, Gellért and
Interestingly, it is also still the restaurants the waiters tend Tabán, Around Parliament,
custom in some cheaper to round up the bill, particularly Central Pest, Around Városliget,
establishments to be asked to when serving foreign customers. and Further Afield. Our listings
join other diners at a table, Expect prices to be displayed in include a selection of the best
especially during the busy forints, as well as in euros in restaurants from across the city,
lunchtime period. some places. and while traditional Hungarian
cuisine is still heartily embraced
amongst locals and visitors alike,
we’ve also listed dozens more
restaurants that reflect the
changing, and more innovative,
trends in Magyar cooking. The
number, and quality, of ethnic
eateries has also improved no
end, with Italian, French, and
Asian restaurants particularly to
the fore, and this too is reflected
in many of the establishments
listed here. The highlighted
restaurants, marked as DK
Choice, have been chosen
because they offer a unique
experience – typically a
combination of superb cuisine
Al fresco dining at Café Pierrot (see p196) and a truly special atmosphere.




190-191_EW_Budapest.indd 191 15/09/16 10:33 am

192  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS


The Flavours of Budapest

The fusion of Magyar, Turkish, Austrian, Balkan and even
French influences has made Hungarian cuisine one of the
most interesting and flavourful in central Europe. Hungary
is a country where cooking know-how has always been a
key aspect of the national culture. The improvised stews of
nomadic Asiatic settlers survive as a delicacy to this day.
Noted for its game, foie gras and rich meaty preparations,
such as goulash and the legendary Debrecziner sausages,
it is also a good place to enjoy freshwater fish and an
array of delicious cakes and pastries. Hungarian peppers
Poultry and Game
increasingly popular too.
Steak is widely dished up, Geese are an important
often with a rich sauce as in farmyard animal in Hungary,
Bélszín Budapest módra which is the world’s second
(Budapest tenderloin biggest producer of foie gras
medallions). Beef is also used (after France). Foie gras is almost
to make the many different the national dish, usually cooked
types of goulash, although this in its own fat and served cold. It
dish, as well as gulyásleves is also found in pâtés and confits.
(goulash soup) can also be Libatepertő (goose skin) is widely
made from pork or venison. enjoyed too, fried in its own fat
Puncs Krémes Túrós-
Sausages and cured meats on sale in the Rigó torta Eszterházy torta barackos pite
Central Market Jancsi
Meat
Pork is a popular meat in
Hungary, while financial
constraints mean that beef is
more of an expensive delicacy.
Pork is found in a wide range of
stews and sausages, and is
eaten as bacon. Cuts of beef
do feature on tables and
menus, especially in Budapest,
and veal is becoming Selection of typical Hungarian cakes and pastries


Local Dishes and Specialities
Despite strong foreign influences, the
classic dishes of Hungary dominate daily
menus in the restaurants and cafés of
Budapest. Many show their roots in one of
the country’s three historical regions. Goulash
and its many variants, for example, is a dish of
the Great Plain, the traditional method of
cooking it in a kettle reflecting the nomadic
past of the Plain’s inhabitants. Foie gras may
have been introduced into the country by the
Austrian Habsburgs, but has become so
popular that it is key to the cuisine of eastern
White asparagus Hungary, where most geese are now bred.
The centre of the country, and the area around Budapest, has Lángos Crisp and golden, these
deep-fried potato cakes make a
always had the sweetest tooth and nearly all the nation’s popular, filling snack, served
favourite cakes and desserts originate from here. with soured cream.






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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  193


The Flavours of Budapest Paprika peppers are a culinary
staple and many types are
grown. They are either cooked
as part of a dish – töltött paprika
(peppers stuffed with meat
and rice) are served up every-
where – or dried and ground up
to be used as a spice. There are
hundreds of different types of
ground paprika, which vary in
flavour and strength. Although
paprika is the emblematic spice
of Hungary, it was not always
Market stall, laden with root vegetables and strings of dried peppers so. During the 19th century
national resistance movements,
Vegetables
and served with pickles. Duck is Hungarian cooks started the
another regular on Hungarian Potatoes, tomatoes and cabbage excessive use of paprika powder
menus, often roasted with are usually the main vegetables. to differentiate Hungarian and
chestnuts or berries and served But from May to July, fine white Austrian gastronomy.
with red cabbage. Pheasant may asparagus appears on market
also be on offer, normally in a rich stalls, with many restaurants Best Local Snacks
soup. Venison is common, and serving spárgaleves, a rich
usually served as a spicy pörkölt creamy soup made from Sausages Most buffets and
(goulash) or in a vegetable asparagus and veal stock. butcher’s shops offer the lightly
sauce with bread. smoked Debrecziner sausage,
made from beef, pork, paprika
and garlic. It is generally eaten
Fish with bread and mustard.
Traditional Hungarian dishes Chestnuts In winter, Budapest
are made from freshwater is crammed with stalls selling
fish, with carp the most freshly roasted chestnuts.
widely eaten, although catfish, Pancakes, fritters and
zander, bream and trout can doughnuts Snack bars all over
also be found on most menus. the country serve tasty, fried,
A popular soup is halászlé, doughy snacks all day long. Try a
made with carp or catfish and salty lángos with garlic oil or sour
seasoned with a generous cream and cheese.
dash of paprika. Another Gingerbread Shops devoted
favourite is harcsapaprikás, a to selling gingerbread are every-
goulash-style fish stew with where. At Christmas it is highly
sour cream and served with Roasting chestnuts, a common sight on decorated and given as a gift.
galuska, a type of noodle. Budapest’s winter streets
















Gulyásleves A type of goulash, Csirkepaprikás Chicken ragout Dobos torta Fine slices of
this soup made of pork or beef in a creamy sauce made from sponge cake are layered with
with vegetables is flavoured with paprika and sour cream. Usually chocolate cream and topped
onion, caraway and paprika. served with Hungarian noodles. with glossy caramel.






192-193_EW_Budapest.indd 193 15/09/16 10:30 am

194  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Drink in Budapest

Hungary is famous for its excellent wines and, although
it is not a big country, it has as many as 22 wine regions.
These regions produce all the characteristic wine styles,
from pezsgő (sparkling wine) and light whites that come
from Mátra, near Lake Balaton, to dry reds from Villány
or Eger, as well as Tokaji Aszú, a distinctive sweet dessert
wine from the slopes of Tokaj. Many wines from different
vineyards are matured in a maze of underground cellars in
Budafok. They are all widely available in Budapest’s many
restau rants, wine bars and wine shops. As well as being a
prominent wine producer, Hungary also makes beer, Light Hungarian beers
pálinka (a drink distilled from orchard fruits), several types Hungarian Beers
of brandy and a bitter herb liqueur called Unicum.
Hungarians are turning increas-
ingly to beer as their chosen
Pálinka
drink, as its thirst-quenching
Kecskemét is the largest quality goes well with many
region that produces the traditional, paprika-flavoured
alco holic drink pálinka, which Hungarian dishes, goulash
is distilled from fruit grown in among them. There are some
the orchards situated popular Hungarian beer brands
on the Great Hungarian worth trying, most notably
Plain, some 100 km Soproni, Borsodi and Dreher.
(60 miles) southeast The large Dreher factory in the
of Budapest. Pálinka Kőbánya district of Budapest
is a spirit native to was founded in 1854 and now
Hungary and comes offers pre-arranged beer-
in a variety of flavours sampling events at their
including barack Pezsgö by Törley and Hungaria museum (www.dreherrt.hu).
(apri cot) and The number of small artisan
cseresznye (cherry). first production plant in Budafok breweries is also growing, with
The best of them, in 1882, which continues to their beers on offer at festivals
however, is szilva produce excellent sparkling and some pubs and restaurants.
(plum) which comes wines and has an international
from the Szatmár reputation. Today, Hungary
district and is much has several other factories Hungarian Wines
favoured by the producing pezsgő, mainly The choice of good wine
Hungarians. concentrated around Budapest, available in Hungary has
Pálinka is not the Pécs and Balatonboglár. As well increased dramatically over the
Barack only spirit indigen ous as Törley, Hungaria is another past few years. This is thanks to
pálinka to Hungary. Other good label to look out for. the ever-improving wines being
examples include
Törköly, a spirit distilled from
grape residues left over from
winemaking, which
posses ses a very delicate
flavour, and Vilmos, a brandy
made from Williams pears.

Sparkling Wines
Sparkling wine, called pezsgő
(the Hungarian word for
“sparkling”), enjoys a good
reputation in Hungary. The
classic method of producing
these wines was introduced
to Hungary from France by
József Törley, in 1881. It was
Törley (see p165) who built the One of Budafok’s cellars, where wines are aged in barrels




194-195_EW_Budapest.indd 194 05/09/2014 15:33
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
What to Drink template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.2)
Date 7th January 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

where t o ea t and drink  195


Egri Bikavér, “Bulls’ Blood”, A dry white wine
a full-bodied red wine from the Badacsony Spritzers
vineyards On hot days, Hungarians
enjoy drinking refreshing
spritzers. The various types
are differentiated by the
proportion of white wine
to soda water:
Quantity Quantity
of wine of water
Small spritzer (Kisfröccs)
10 cl 10 cl
Large spritzer (Nagyfröccs)
20 cl 10 cl
Long step (Hosszúlépés)
10 cl 20 cl
Tokaji Janitor (Házmester)
matured in private cellars. 30 cl 20 cl
The styles currently favoured The dessert wine Tokaji has a
by the producers include dry very different style. Its bouquet Unicum
white Chardonnay and Riesling, and flavour come from a mould
medium-dry Zöldszilváni, that grows only in the fork of Originally, Unicum was
Hárslevelű and Szürkebarát, the Bodrog and Tisza rivers and prescribed in 1790 as a remedy
medium-sweet Tramini and the the volcanic soil in which the for the king by the court
aromatic Muskotály, which is vines grow. phys ician, who was himself
produced in Badacsony, Tokaji ranges from sweet to a mem ber of the Zwack
Balatonboglár, Csopak and Somló. dry and is full-bodied and rich. family. Since then, a blend
Among red wines, the dry Particularly worth samp ling is of more than 40 Hungarian
Kékfrankos, Burgundi, Oportó, Aszú, which is made with the herbs has been used to
Cabernet and Pinot Noir are addition of over-ripe grapes create Unicum. The herbs,
popular, as is the medium-dry harvested after the first which are gathered in
Merlot, which is produced in frost. The proportion three separate areas,
Siklós, Sopron, Szekszárd, of these grapes are combined to
Tihany and Villány. added to the must produce this bitter
Another vine-growing dis trict (grape ice) deter- liqueur. Unicum can
is Eger, which is famous for its mines the wine’s body be drunk either as an
aromatic, robust red Egri Leányka and sweetness. The apéritif before a meal
and the dry red Egri Bikavér, or more of these grapes Unicum herb liqueur or afterwards as a
“Bulls’ Blood”, which is produced used, the sweeter and digestif with coffee.
from a combination of three grape richer the Aszú. The recipe
varieties. Other Hungarian wines Although cheap vari eties has been held by the Zwack
take their names from their place of Tokaji do exist, they do family, and remained a secret,
of origin or the variety of grape not share the quality of the since the reign of Franz I
from which they are produced. genuine article. (see p21).
















Sweet Tokaji Dry Tokaji Tokaji Aszú, a renowned golden Pear-flavoured Vilmos
Szamorodni Szamorodni dessert wine liqueur




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196  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Where to Eat and Drink

Rivalda Café & Restaurant  Price Guide
Castle District International Map 1 C5 Prices are based on a three-course meal
Színház utca 5–9 per person, with a half-bottle of house
Café Miró  Tel (06 1) 489 02 36 wine, including tax and service.
Café Map 1 B4 The cuisine is contemporary with a  up to 6,000 forints
Úri utca 30 seasonal menu, which uses mostly  6,000–12,000 forints
Tel (06 1) 201 23 75 local produce. Jazz evenings too.  over 12,000 forints
A popular and hip hangout, Café
Miró has a Mediterranean vibe. Vár: a Speiz Étterem 
Enjoy an appealing range of International Map 1 B4 Gellért and Tabán
salads and snacks on the Hess András tér 6
gorgeous summer terrace. Tel (06 1) 488 74 16 Gellért Espressó 
This cultured restaurant offers the Café Map 4 E3
Ruszwurm Cukrászda  likes of foie gras with Tokaj. In the Szent Gellért tér 1
Patisserie Map 1 B4 adjoining Ham and Wine Bar, you Tel (06 1) 889 55 58
Szentháromság utca 7 can sample a superb range of Situated on the ground floor
Tel (06 1) 375 52 84 meats from all over Europe. of the Gellért Hotel, this sublime
Budapest’s oldest patisserie offers re-creation of a Habsburg-era
plenty of calorific strudels (rétes) Alabárdos  coffee house serves up good
and some delicious coffees. Modern Hungarian Map 1 B4 coffee and excellent cakes.
Országház utca 2

DK Choice Tel (06 1) 356 08 51 Closed Sun Hadik Kávéház Café Map 4 E5
Set in a Gothic building, this
Café
21 Magyar Vendéglő  restaurant offers Hungarian Bartók Béla út 36
Modern Hungarian Map 1 B4 specialities of pre-paprika times Tel (06 1) 279 02 90
Fortuna utca 21 made to please today’s taste buds. The classic interior here
Tel (06 1) 202 21 13 combines with a pleasant
This super stylish restaurant Halászbástya  atmosphere, making for a
strives to create traditional International Map 1 B4 good coffee stop. The lunch
Magyar cuisine in a thoroughly Szentháromság tér 5 menu is worth trying too.
contemporary setting. Brick Tel (06 1) 201 69 35
walls, wooden floors and The Neo-Romanesque interior Marcello 
subdued lighting create the here is impressive, however it is Italian Map 4 E4
perfect atmosphere in which the knockout views from the Bartók Béla út 40
to enjoy the first-rate foie gras terrace that really make this Tel (06 1) 466 62 31
and other classic dishes like place something special. Housed in a cellar accessed by a
chicken paprika with buttered low staircase, Marcello is famed
dumplings. The wine list is Zóna Budapest  for its pasta and salad bar, with
particularly inspired. International Map 1 C5 a good choice for vegetarians.
Lánchíd utca 7–9
Tel (06 1) 422 59 81 Café Déryné 
Café Pierrot  The breathtaking concept food International Map 1 B5
International Map 1 B4 here fuses modern Hungarian Krisztina tér 3
Fortuna utca 14 cuisine with a touch of the orient. Tel (06 1) 225 14 07
Tel (06 1) 375 69 71 Splendid views of the Danube. In the atmosphere of a grand-
This refined yet comfortable Fantastic Hungarian wines as well. scale dining room, the classic
and relaxed, friendly restaurant brasserie menu on offer here
is located in a 13th - century features simple local and
bakery house with a gorgeous French favourites.
secret garden.
Hemingway 
Fekete Holló Vendéglő  Modern Hungarian Map 3 C5
Traditional Hungarian Map 1 B4 Kosztolányi Dezső tér 2
Országház utca 10 Tel (06 1) 381 05 22
Tel (06 1) 356 23 67 The spread out, island resort feel
This eatery offers excellent of this lively, al fresco venue
traditional food, although it would have appealed to the
might be a little too touristy for famous writer. There’s a weekly
some. The kitsch medieval decor changing menu and a superb
only adds to the experience. brunch buffet on Sundays.
Pest-Buda Bistro  János Étterem 
Traditional Hungarian Map 1 B4 Modern Hungarian Map 3 B2
Fortuna utca 3 Hegyalja út 23
Tel (06 1) 225 03 77 Tel (06 1) 202 34 14
This simple Hungarian bistro The house restaurant of
offers home-cooked food made the Charles Hotel offers an
with fresh ingredients. The interesting take on Hungarian
atmosphere is traditional yet The stylish dining room opening onto the classics, such as goose liver pie
friendly and casual. garden at Café Pierrot with Tokaj-wine mousse.
196-207_EW_Budapest.indd 196 15/09/16 10:30 am

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  197

Locavore Restaurant
and Café 
Traditional Hungarian Map 3 C2
Naphegy utca 67
Tel (06 1) 799 04 01
Choose from a variety of
traditional dishes made with
local ingredients and a wide
selection of wines at this stylish
restaurant. The terrace offers
breathtaking views of the city.
Márványmenyasszony
Étterem 
Traditional Hungarian Map 3 A1
Márvány utca 6
Tel (06 1) 487 30 90
This old-style Hungarian outfit
has long offered fine food, great Brick walls and wooden floors combine in the stylish dining room at 21 Magyar Vendéglő
prices and a relaxed atmosphere.
Cracking gypsy music too. The Trófea Grill 
menu changes weekly. North of the International Map 1 C1
Castle District Margit körút 2
Szeged Vendéglő  Tel (06 1) 438 90 90
Fish Map 4 E3 Gusto Café  For a fixed price, you can eat as
Bartók Béla út 1 Café Map 1 C2 much as you want from the self-
Tel (06 1) 209 16 68 Frankel Leó út 12 service buffet, and that includes
River fish is the reason to come Tel (06 1) 316 39 70 wine and champagne.
here, the Szeged halászlé (fish This extremely popular but small
soup) being the one to go for. café is always filled with patrons, Arriba 
A lively gypsy band plays in and offers light snacks, main Mexican Map 1 A3
the evenings. meals, drinks and wonderful Széna tér 1/a
desserts. Their Italian coffee is Tel (06 1) 201 33 95
Tabáni Gösser Restaurant  highly recommended. Arriba serves burritos, quesadillas
Traditional Hungarian Map 3 C1 and other delicious Mexican fast
Attila út 19 Nagyi Palacsintázója  food. Excellent location, with
Tel (06 1) 375 94 82 Light bites Map 1 C3 charming hand-painted murals.
This authentic Hungarian Batthyány tér 5
restaurant has a variety of juicy Drop in here for a prolific menu Carne di Hall 
steaks on offer, each of them of sweet and sour pancakes, International Map 1 C4
prepared differently. from sour cream and cheese to Bem rakpart 20
chocolate and whipped cream. Tel (06 1) 201 81 37
DK Choice Róma Ételbár  This spot offers some of the more
intriguing dishes this side of the
Aranyszarvas Traditional Hungarian Map 1 B3 Danube, such as catfish mousse
Vendéglő  Fazekas utca 4 with prawns.
International Map 3 C1 Tel (06 1) 201 45 45 Closed Sun
Szarvas tér 1 This fun 1970s style place is a Dunaparti Matróz Kocsma 
Tel (06 1) 375 64 51 good bet for a cheap, homemade- International Map 1 C4
Despite the unalluring location, style, no fuss lunchtime meal, Halász utca 1
the handsome "Golden Deer" be it goose or goulash. Tel (06 1) 225 16 73
is a gem of a place, with a menu An extensive meat-heavy menu
the envy of many restaurants coupled with a terrific selection
in the capital; here you can of Belgian beers makes this
sample wild boar tenderloin restaurant a meat-lover's favourite.
with white bean purée or duck
breast with orange carrot and Horgásztanya Vendéglő 
pok choi. The wine list is no Fish Map 1 C4
less commendable, and there’s Fő utca 27
an intriguing selection of Tel (06 1) 212 37 80
palinkas to choose from. This long-standing, enjoyable
maritime-themed restaurant offers
generous portions of fish soup,
Búsuló Juhász roasted trout and other fish treats.
Étterem 
Traditional Hungarian Map 3 C3 Mandragóra 
Kelenhegyi út 58 International Map 1 C2
Tel (06 1) 209 16 49 Kacsa utca 22
Sited on the slopes of Gellért Tel (06 1) 202 21 65 Closed Sun
Hill, Búsuló Juhász is well worth A small restaurant close to the
visiting as much for the views as Buda banks of the Danube,
the food, which is beautifully Dining terrace at the handsome Mandragóra has a particularly
prepared. Seasonal menu. Aranyszarvas Vendéglő atmospheric shaded terrace.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 191
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198  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Európa Kávéház 
Café Map 2 E2
Szent István krt 7–9
Tel (06 1) 312 23 62
This large, bustling café is
invariably packed to the gills
with locals filling up on coffee
and generously portioned slices
of excellent cake.
First Strudel House of Pest 
Café Map 2 E4
Október 6 utca 22
Tel (06 1) 428 01 35
Set in a building dating back to
1812, come here to watch the
many types of strudel – sweet
Traditionally-styled dining room at the First Strudel House of Pest and sour – being made before
your eyes.
Pavillon de Paris 
French Map 1 C4 Around Parliament Ganga Vega Café 
Fő utca 20 Vegetarian Map 2 F4
Tel (06 1) 509 34 30 Closed Sun Alexandra Book Café  Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 25
The sophisticated French food on Café Map 2 F4 Tel 06 70 633 89 81
offer is complemented by the Andrássy út 39 This unfussy eatery has just a few
tastefully decorated dining room Tel (06 1) 461 58 30 tables, but the well thought out
and efficient service. There’s also Set inside an elegant, historic veggie food is undeniably tasty.
a lovely garden with a pavilion. bookstore, one can enjoy a cup
of fine coffee and cake here while Govinda Étterem 
Vigadó Söröző  browsing through the bookshelves. Vegetarian Map 2 D4
Traditional Hungarian Map 1 C3 Vigyázó Ferenc utca 4
Markovits Iván utca 4 Ape Regina Restaurant Tel (06 1) 473 13 10 Closed Sun
Tel (06 1) 214 94 69 & Café  This fast-food style joint serves
The interior is a little staid, but the Italian individual portions as well as set
food is good, with steak and fish Podmaniczky utca 18 Map 2 F3 meals, in addition to an all-you-
the mainstays of a long menu. Tel (06 30) 779 75 45 can-eat menu.
An all-you-can-eat restaurant
Arany Kaviár Étterem  that includes drinks in the price, Hummus Bar 
Fish Map 1 A3 Ape Regina offers a variety of Vegetarian Map 2 E4
Ostrom utca 19 traditional, southern Italian and Október 6 utca 19
Tel (06 1) 201 67 37 Sicilian specialities. Rustic interior. Tel (06 1) 354 01 08
At this fine Russian restaurant, This is one of a growing chain
dishes are mostly based around Bombay Curry Bar  of veggie hangouts across the
fish, though there are some Indian Map 2 F4 city, typically serving wrap
native specialities, such as Andrássy út 28 sandwiches, salads and falafel.
pelmenyi (Russian ravioli). Tel (06 1) 332 83 63
This self-service fast food Indian Momotaro Ramen 
DK Choice joint is popular for its lunchtime Asian Map 2 D4
Express Menu and takeaway.
Széchenyi utca 16
Csalogány 26  Favourites include tandoori chicken, Tel (06 1) 269 38 02 Closed Mon
Modern Hungarian Map 1 A3 chicken korma and tikka masala. Pocket-friendly, Momotaro Ramen
Csalogány utca 26 serves some of the best Chinese
Tel (06 1) 201 78 92 in the city. Try the dumplings and
Closed Sun & Mon steamed sea bass.
The rather low-key location
disguises a highly distinguished Szeráj Török Étterem 
restaurant/café with a bright Turkish Map 2 E2
and breezy Mediter ranean Szent István körút 13
interior. Excellent poultry, fish Tel (06 1) 311 66 90
and meat dishes are grilled on There’s much more than kebabs
lava stones for a real burst of available at this Turkish fast food
flavour. There are also some restaurant where diners eat at
decent vegetarian options. simple wooden tables.
Belvárosi Lugas
Kacsa Vendéglő  Vendéglő 
International Map 1 C2 Traditional Hungarian Map 2 E4
Fő utca 75 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 15/A
Tel (06 1) 201 99 92 Tel (06 1) 302 53 93
The service is as ostentatious as Well-made, hearty dishes are on
the food is splendid, with dishes offer in a simple, appealing
presented under silver serving One of several eclectic dining rooms at atmosphere, with daily specials
domes. Set lunch menu available. the Pomo D’Oro chalked up on a blackboard.
Key to Price Guide see page 196
196-207_EW_Budapest.indd 198 15/09/16 10:30 am


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