(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest

WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  199

Budapest Bisztró 
Modern Hungarian Map 2 E3
Vécsey utca 3
Tel (06 1) 783 07 88
This Hungarian bistro, with a view
of the kitchen, and a state-of-
the-art walk-in wine cellar, offers
creative dishes ranging from
classic to molecular gastronomy.
One of the restaurant’s favourite
classics is their goulash soup.
DK Choice
Café Bouchon 
French Map 2 F3
Zichy Jenő utca 33
Tel (06 1) 353 40 94 Closed Sun
There’s an outstanding
combination of French and Gresham Restaurant at the magificent Four Seasons Gresham Palace Hotel
Hungarian flavours on offer at
this welcoming little neigh- Marquis de Salade  Ristorante Krízia 
bour hood restaurant. It is also International Map 2 F4 Italian Map 2 F4
well-stocked with some of Hajós utca 43 Mozsár utca 12
the country’s finest wines. Tel (06 1) 302 40 86 Tel (06 1) 331 87 11 Closed Sun
The lovely Art Deco furnishings Dishes from Azerbaijan and This pretty restaurant showcases
and impeccable service round Georgia feature strongly in this some fabulous Italian cuisine; the
things off beautifully. beautifully decorated establish- home-made pastas and noodles
ment – check out the Persian are superb, and there’s a truffle
rugs downstairs. menu too.
Café Jubilee 
Italian Map 2 E2 Okay Italia  Sir Lancelot Lovagi
Szent István körút 13 Italian Map 2 E2 Étterem 
Tel (06 1) 789 33 57 Szent István körút 20 International Map 2 F3
As well as being a buzzy place to Tel (06 1) 349 29 91 Podmaniczky utca 14
drink, this is a good breakfast/ Despite the noisy location and Tel (06 1) 302 44 56
brunch and lunch option. slightly overpriced menu, this Hefty portions of Renaissance-
lively joint is worth venturing inspired dishes are brought to the
Café Kör  to for its refreshingly creative table by waiters in period costume,
Modern Hungarian Map 2 E4 Italian dishes. with Renaissance music.
Sas utca 17
Tel (06 1) 311 00 53 Pomo D’oro  DK Choice
This café is popular for serving Italian Map 2 D4
grilled meat dishes and salads. Arany János utca 9 Borkonyha 
Fine wine too. Tel (06 1) 302 64 73 International Map 2 E5
Thin-crust pizzas prepared in Sas utca 3
Hungarikum Bistro  wood-burning ovens make Tel (06 1) 266 08 35 Closed Sun
Traditional Hungarian Map 2 D4 this trattoria a popular spot; the From the moment you walk
Steindl Imre utca 13 charcoal grill is worth trying too. through the door of the “Wine
Tel (06 1) 797 71 77 Kitchen”, you know you’re in a
Try the best of homestyle cuisine, for a treat at Budapest’s third
such as Grandma's noodles in Michelin-starred restaurant.
onion stew, at this bistro. Beyond the gleaming bar,
stacked high with beautiful
Iguana  bottles of wine, immaculately
Mexican Map 2 D4 laid tables and a fabulous
Zoltán utca 16 menu await. Expect dishes
Tel (06 1) 331 43 52 like rabbit mille-feuille and
The Tex-Mex fare is pretty much as suckling pig carpaccio.
you would expect in this expats’
favourite, but it’s a lot of fun.
Good cocktails too. Gresham Restaurant 
International Map 2 D5
Kispiac Bisztró  Széchenyi István tér 5-6
Modern Hungarian Map 2 E4 Tel (06 1) 268 60 00
Hold utca 13 Pick from an Italian or Hungarian
Tel (06 1) 269 43 21 Closed Sun menu for breakfast, lunch,
Inside the Hold utca market hall, or dinner at this excellent
with a handful of tables, this place restaurant located in the
offers sump tuous dishes, all made magnificent Four Seasons
by the staff themselves, including Gresham Palace Hotel. A
the bread and the marmalade. Welcoming neighbourhood restaurant, great selection of cakes, pastries
The roasted duck is the highlight. Café Bouchon and coffee is also available.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 191
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200  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

KNRDY Steakhouse  Drum Café 
Steakhouse Map 2 E4 Hungarian/Jewish Map 2 F5
Október 6 utca 15 Dob utca 2
Tel (06 1) 788 16 85 Tel (06 20) 540 74 22
Enjoy some of the best steak This quirky little café offers a
meat from around the world large selection of traditional
cooked to perfection, along dishes, such as goulash soup and
with a cocktail from the award- stuffed pancakes. Try their lángos,
winning bartender. Excellent along with a side of calamari.
and attentive service.
Fakanál 
La Pampa Traditional Hungarian Map 4 F3
Steakhouse  Vámház körút 1–3
Steakhouse Map 2 F4 Tel (06 1) 217 78 60 Closed Sun
Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 21 Located upstairs inside the Great
Tel (06 1) 354 14 44 Market Hall, this unpretentious
The decor is eye-catching, if not eatery is perfect for a quick,
slightly over-the-top, while the Auguszt Cukrászda, one of a chain of no-nonsense bite to eat.
steaks here are pretty much elegant patisseries
cooked to perfection. Fresh Factory 
BARbár Café  Light bites Map 4 E1
La Plaza Étterem  Café Map 10 E5 Petőfi Sándor utca 7
Spanish Map 2 E4 Papnövelde utca 3 Tel 06 30 443 60 25
Október 6 utca 26 Tel (06 30) 867 79 87 Closed Sun Omelettes, baguettes, juices,
Tel (06 1) 354 30 50 This enthusiastically-run café is smoothies and much more are
The dazzling restaurant of the renowned, above all, for its array on offer at this sit down and
Iberostar Hotel features gorgeous of chocolate drinks, all made takeaway outlet. Opens early.
dishes like paella with rabbit using imported Belgian chocolate.
and chicken. Frici Papa 
Bors GasztroBár  Traditional Hungarian Map 7 A1
Rézkakas Bistro  Light bites Map 10 F3 Király utca 55
Traditional Hungarian Map 2 E5 Kazinczy utca 10 Tel (06 1) 351 01 97 Closed Sun
Sas utca 3 Tel 06 70 953 32 63 There’s not much that’s classy
Tel (06 1) 318 0038 At this above-average fast food here, but the food is hearty,
The “Golden Cockerel” is a smart joint the soups, in particular, cheap and served with efficiency.
looking venture offering beauti- are delicious, notably the wild Popular with the locals.
fully crafted classic Hungarian mushroom and pumpkin.
dishes. Good Hungarian wine list. Fröhlich Kóser
Great live music. DK Choice Cukrászda Map 2 F5

Kosher Patisserie
Tigris  Central Kávéház  Dob utca 22
Modern Hungarian Map 2 E5 Café Map 4 F1 Tel (06 1) 266 17 33 Closed Sat
Mérleg utca 10 Károlyi utca 9 This warmly decorated kosher
Tel (06 1) 317 3715 Closed Sun Tel (06 1) 266 21 10 patisserie serves layered cakes,
Hungarian cuisine is cooked Budapest was littered with buns and sublime flódni (apple,
here with flare and ingenuity, fabulous literary cafés in the walnut and poppy seed cake).
from house-prepared smoked early 20th century, but the
meats to a special foie gras Central remains the grandest, Fruccola 
menu. Excellent local wine list. not only for its great-looking Light bites Map 4 E1
Knowledgeable, helpful staff. interior and laid-back atmosphere, Kristóf tér 3
but the service is exemplary Tel (06 1) 430 61 25 Closed Sun
and the coffee and pastries – This small but efficient sandwich
if on the slightly expensive side bar and coffee shop serves up
Central Pest – are truly spectacular. great breakfast and brunches.
Plenty of vegetarian options.
Astoria Kávéház 
Café Map 4 F1
Kossuth Lajos utca 19-21
Tel (06 1) 889 60 22
Fill up on sandwiches, cakes and
caffeine at the Astoria Hotel’s
elegant coffee house, which still
retains an abundance of old-
world charm.
Auguszt Cukrászda 
Patisserie Map 4 F1
Kossuth Lajos utca 14–16
Tel (06 1) 337 63 79 Closed Sun
Part of a chain of elegant patisseries
specialising in pies, ice creams
and pastries, this outlet offers
substantial lunch fare as well. Ultra-modern decor at the KNRDY Steakhouse
Key to Price Guide see page 196
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  201

Gerbeaud Cukrászda 
Café Map 2 E5
Vörösmarty tér 7
Tel (06 1) 429 90 00
In operation since the mid-19th
century, this heritage café has been
consistently serving some of the
best coffee and cakes in the city.
Kádár Étkezde 
Hungarian/Jewish Map 7 A2
Klauzál tér 9
Tel (06 1) 321 36 22 Closed Sun
Savour delicious and traditional
home-cooked dishes at this retro
eatery, which has changed very
little over the years.
Király Cukrászda 
Patisserie Map 2 F5
Király utca 19
Tel (06 1) 351 95 32
This famous, age-old bakery
serves the most delicious cream Classic decor at popular coffee house Művész Kávéház
cakes, pastries and ice cream.
Sahara  Bohémtanya 
Komédiás Kávéház  Middle Eastern Map 7 B5 Traditional Hungarian Map 2 F5
Hungarian/Jewish Map 2 F3 József Körút 82 Paulay Ede utca 6
Nagymező utca 26 Tel (06 1) 313 02 57 Tel (06 1) 267 35 04
Tel (06 1) 302 09 01 Known to offer some of the best Customers at the “Bohemian
Located in the heart of Turkish food in Budapest, this Farm” are allocated places in
“Budapest's Broadway”, this bright outlet, with shared tables, wooden cubicles, which are
restaurant is a favourite with serves a range of kebabs and typically shared with others.
celebrities. Enjoy traditional more substantial meals, as well
fare while listening to live as baklava and coffee. DK Choice
piano music.
Sugar!  Borbíróság 
Marie Kristensen Café Map 7 A1 Modern Hungarian Map 4 F3
Sandwich Bar  Paulay Ede utca 48 Csarnok tér 5
Light bites Map 7 A5 Tel (06 1) 321 66 72 Tel (06 1) 219 09 02 Closed Sun
Ráday utca 7 At this mesmerising Across from the Great Market
Tel (06 1) 218 16 73 Closed Sun confectioners-cum-café, you can Hall, this fantastic looking
There’s a great choice of snacks live out all your sweet-toothed restaurant possesses a split-
here, with good vegetarian fantasies at the same time as level interior and small terrace.
options, and a lovely terrace grabbing a coffee. The highlights of a limited
on which to enjoy them. but exceptional menu are
VakVarjú Étterem  the duck carpaccio and duck
Művész Kávéház  Traditional Hungarian Map 10 E3 steak, though there are many
Café Map 2 F4 Paulay Ede utca 7 more appetising dishes, like
Andrássy út 29 Tel (06 1) 268 08 88 tuna and veal with foie gras.
Tel (06 1) 343 35 44 Many patrons visit Vakvarjú for The choice and quality of wine
This very popular coffee house the kenyérlángos (a flat bread is second to none.
is notable as much for its baked in the oven), which can
extravagant Baroque decor only be sampled here. Service is
as for its coffee and cakes. friendly and efficient. Buena Vista Étterem 
International Map 7 A1
Múzeum Cukrászda  Vapiano  Liszt Ferenc tér 4-5
Patisserie Map 4 F1 Italian Map 4 E1 Tel (06 1) 344 63 03
Múzeum körút 10 Bécsi utca 5 At this oasis of peace from the
Tel (06 1) 338 44 15 Tel (06 1) 411 08 64 busy street, carefully prepared
A friendly spot for a cup of Collect a card, place your order dishes are offered alongside
coffee and a pastry, or even a (pizza or pasta) then watch it being an extensive wine list.
full breakfast, this place is open prepared before your eyes.
round the clock. Cucina 
W35  Italian Map 4 E1
La Pizza di Mamma Sophia  Light bites Map 7 A2 Váci utca 20
Pizzeria Map 2 F5 Wesselényi utca 35 Tel (06 1) 266 41 44
Király utca 20 Tel (06 1) 796 53 70 This rustically styled trattoria is
Tel (06 1) 266 04 44 This tiny joint serves what are one of the more appealing
Head to this little outlet for possibly the best burgers in places to eat along the popular
cheap and tasty slices of pizza town, as well as some Mexican tourist street. Their local lager
to eat on the go because there’s dishes. Fans of spicy food should and wine goes surprisingly well
no seating available. try the “Fire in the hole” burger. with the exclusively Italian menu.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 191
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202  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Két Szerecsen 
International Map 2 F4
Nagymező utca 14
Tel (06 1) 343 19 84
At this bright, buzzy place, a
varied tapas menu complements
a strong selection of mains, such
as salmon steamed in white
wine. Try the meat tapas platter.
Good vegetarian options as well.
Klassz 
International Map 7 A1
Andrássy út 41
Tel (06 1) 225 17 02
As much a wine bar as a restaurant,
this small but striking place offers
Inviting terrace seating at Gerlóczy Kávéház a highly accomplished menu. Try
the duck breast dish.
Cyrano  Gotti Étterem 
International Map 4 E1 International Map 7 A5 Kőleves Vendéglő 
Kristóf tér 7 Ráday utca 29 Traditional Hungarian Map 2 F5
Tel (06 1) 266 47 47 Tel (06 1) 783 44 03 Kazinczy utca 37–41
A wide variety of food and flavours This popular modern bar and Tel (06 1) 322 10 11
are on offer at this expertly restaurant in the buzzy café district Jerusalem artichoke cream soup
decorated restaurant. Toasted serves everything from pasta and with roast walnuts is a typical
goat’s cheese with lavender and steak to stuffed pancakes. Live dish in this quaint, rather
honey is their signature dish. music on Friday evenings. idiosyncratic restaurant. The
Open terrace during summers. outside bar area has colourful
Il Terzo Cerchio  tables, chairs and hammocks.
Desszert.Neked  Italian Map 7 A3 Carefully selected wine list.
Patisserie Map 10 E3 Dohány utca 40
Paulay Ede utca 17 Tel (06 1) 354 07 88 Macesz Bisztró 
Tel (06 20) 253 15 19 The go-to Italian of choice for Jewish Bistro Map 7 A2
Choose from enticing French many in Budapest, it serves up Dob utca 26
and Hungarian desserts at this enormous pizzas, though the Tel (06 1) 787 61 64
modern pastry shop. You can seafood pasta dishes are also At this non-kosher Jewish bistro,
also see the cakes, pastries and worth trying. dishes are based on the traditional
other sweet delights being home cooking of Jewish families
made in the bakery. Kaltenberg Sörház és in Budapest. Seasonal menu.
Étterem 
Dionysos Taverna  Bavarian Map 7 A5 Magdalena Merlo 
Greek Map 4 F3 Kinizsi utca 30–36 Traditional Hungarian Map 7 A1
Belgrád rakpart 16 Tel (06 1) 215 97 92 Closed Sun Király utca 59/b
Tel (06 1) 318 12 22 Mammoth portions of sausage Tel (06 1) 322 32 78
At this fairly successful re-creation and cabbage are served at this Solid rather than spectacular,
of a traditional Greek taverna, attractively furnished beer cellar. the food here is a mix of local
with interiors painted a bright Superb list of locally brewed specialities alongside a sprink-
blue and white, you’ll find an Hungarian beer. There’s an on- ling of Italian dishes. Try the
abundance of meze alongside site brewery too. Hungarian steak or baked pork.
authentic main dishes.
Károlyi Étterem és
Fülemüle étterem  Kávéház 
Jewish Map 7 A3 Traditional Hungarian Map 4 F2
Kőfaragó utca 5 Károlyi Mihály utca 16
Tel (06 1) 266 79 47 Tel (06 1) 328 02 40
This homely, old-style family-run At this elegant restaurant in the
restaurant serves typical Jewish lovely courtyard of the Károlyi
meals like sólet, cholent and Palace, the veal paprika stew in a
goose soup with dumplings. potato pancake is a speciality. Sit
Some Hungarian dishes are also outside in the garden in summer.
given a Jewish spin, such as the
popular bean goulash. Kárpátia Étterem 
Traditional Hungarian Map 4 F1
Gerlóczy Kávéház  Ferenciek tere 7–8
Modern Hungarian Map 4 F1 Tel (06 1) 317 35 96
Gerlóczy utca 1 Open since 1877, standards in this
Tel (06 1) 501 40 00 beautifully ornamented establish-
This atmospheric street corner ment remain impeccably high, and
café offers delicious Hungarian the food is usually spot on. Classic
fare. It's also a great place for dishes including goulash soup and
breakfast as it opens much strudel feature on the menu. The Elegantly simple dining room at the
before other joints nearby. live gypsy music is quite popular. French Borssó Bistro
Key to Price Guide see page 196
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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  203

Babel Étterem 
Traditional Hungarian Map 4 E2
Piarista köz 2
Tel 06 70 600 08 00
Babel is a Hungarian-regional
restaurant. Although pricey,
its creative cuisine will satisfy
enthusiasts of fine dining. High-
quality fish and meat dishes.
Good wine list.
Borssó Bistro 
International Map 4 F2
Királyi Pál utca 14
Tel (06 1) 789 09 75 Closed Mon
A charismatic split-level restaurant
tucked away down a side street
serving some intriguing French
cuisine like duck liver terrine with
Traditional dining booths at Kárpátia Étterem pear salad. Four-course tasting
menu available. Friendly service

DK Choice Soul Café Map 7 A5 and live music.
International
Menza  Ráday utca 11–13 Carmel Étterem 
Modern Hungarian Map 7 A1 Tel (06 1) 217 69 86 Jewish Map 10 F3
Liszt Ferenc tér 2 The appeal of this vaguely North Kazinczy utca 31
Tel (06 1) 413 14 82 African themed establishment is Tel (06 1) 342 45 85
If you only eat at one of the the beautifully prepared French This legendary, kosher restau rant
many places on this square, and Moroccan food. For dessert, is invariably crowded with locals
make it this one. Invariably try the crêpe suzettes (a sauce here to enjoy its famed sólet
packed to the gills, the retro made with caramelized sugar, (cholent) with smoked goose.
1970s decor is what makes butter and zest). Book in advance for Friday and
this place such great fun, but Saturday evenings.
the service is terrific and the Spinoza 
food impeccably prepared and Traditional Hungarian Map 2 F5 Chess 
flavourful; sample the roasted Dob utca 15 French/Italian Map 7 A2
duck liver with sour cherry Tel (06 1) 413 74 88 Dob utca 63
sauce, or the house burger While the food is not particularly Tel (06 1) 882 30 80
with smoked cheese. Decent outstanding, many locals visit This small but upscale French,
sized portions and tasty Spinoza to enjoy a meal while Italian and Hungarian bistro
desserts too. The drinks list is listening to the talented pianist. offers a seasonal menu with a
varied and includes green apple Advisable to book ahead. touch of class. The decor is
lemonade. Book in advance. black and white throughout.
Trattoria Toscana 
Italian Map 4 E2 Comme Chez Soi 
Múzeum Kávéház és Belgrád rakpart 13–15 Italian Map 4 E1
Étterem  Tel (06 1) 327 00 45 Aranykéz utca 2
Traditional Hungarian Map 4 F1 Tuck into one of the terrific Tel (06 1) 318 39 43 Closed Sun
Múzeum körút 12 seafood pasta dishes on offer Despite the name, this is essentially
Tel (06 1) 267 03 75 Closed Sun here while admiring the views an Italian restaurant serving fine
This mid-19th century restaurant across the Danube up to food that is elegantly presented.
retains a vaguely distinguished Castle Hill. Also offered is homemade
air, and the food is excellent. Hungarian schnapps and limoncello.
Don’t miss the veil paprikash Vörös Postakocsi Étterem 
served with sour cream. Modern Hungarian Map 7 A5
Ráday utca 15
Pata Negra  Tel (06 1) 217 67 56
Spanish Map 7 A4 The “Red Mail Coach” has been
Kálvin tér 8 around for years, its reputation
Tel (06 1) 215 56 16 built on excellent goose liver
Traditionally prepared Serrano dishes and Mangalica pork.
ham with Manchego cheese, and Don’t miss the baby pork ribs.
an all-Spanish wine list, are two
very good reasons to visit here. Araz 
French Map 7 A3
Shalimar  Dohány utca 42-44
Indian Map 7 A2 Tel (06 1) 815 11 00
Dob utca 53 The mouthwatering French
Tel (06 1) 352 03 05 cuisine on offer here includes
The inviting menu here features such dishes as chicken breast
all the Indian standards, including with creamy kale and spiced
lots of mouthwatering tandoori potatoes. The Sunday brunch is Dining room at modern Hungarian
dishes. Excellent starter platter. good too. restaurant Vörös Postakocsi Étterem
For more information on types of restaurants see page 191
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204  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Costes  Onyx 
International Map 7 A4 International Map 2 E5
Ráday utca 4 Vörösmarty tér 7
Tel (06 1) 219 06 96 Closed Mon & Tel (06 30) 508 0622 Closed Sun &
Tue Mon
One of only four Michelin-starred Budapest’s second Michelin-starred
restaurants in Budapest, you'll be restaurant receives plaudits for its
treated to an unforgettable array exquisite plates of food, like
of colour, flavour and texture blanquette of veal with langoustine.
combinations here.
Paris-Budapest
Fausto’s  Restaurant and Bar 
Italian Map 10 F4 French-Hungarian Map 2 D5
Dohány utca 3 Széchenyi István tér 2
Tel (06 30) 589 1813 Closed Sun Tel (06 1) 235 12 30
This gorgeously understated A fine establishment at the Sofitel,
restaurant remains the best whose patrons know their food,
Italian in Budapest. Try the black which extends to French,
ravioli filled with octopus served Hungarian and international.
in broccoli cream.
Stradivari Restaurant  Stylish bar seating at the Michelin-starred
Lou Lou  Modern Hungarian Map 2 E5 Costes restaurant
French Map 10 E2 Hercegprímás utca 5
Székely Mihály utca 2 Tel (06 1) 445 40 55 Bagolyvár Étterem 
Tel (06 1) 877 62 02 Closed Sun Traditional dishes are given a Traditional Hungarian Map 5 C3
For superb fine dining, head modern twist at this chic bistro- Gundel Károly út 4
to the classy Lou Lou, featuring type restaurant. The ingredients Tel (06 1) 468 31 10
exotic dishes such as halibut with are all sourced from local farms The little sister of Gundel, the
lobster sauce and samphire. and artisans. “Owl Castle” is an enchanting
restaurant offering homely
New York Kávéház  cooking at reasonable prices.
Café Map 7 B2
Erzsébet körút 9 Around Városliget Haxen Király Étterem 
Tel (06 1) 886 61 11 Bavarian Map 7 B1
This is another of Budapest’s Ecocafe  Király utca 100
great literary cafés of yesteryear, Café Map 5 A5 Tel (06 1) 351 67 93
though these days it is even Andrássy út 68 Leather-trouser-wearing gentle-
more exclusive, and very pricey. This cheery café and bakery uses men play accordion music as
The interior is simply stunning. organic and fair trade products waitresses bring enormous plates
Superb food. and serves up a selection of fresh of bratwurst and sauerkraut.
sandwiches, cakes and salads. There is also a huge selection of
Nobu  Good coffee. pálinkas (Hungarian fruit brandy).
Japanese Map 2 E5
Erzsébet tér 7–8 Montenegrói Gurman  Himalaya Nepáli
Tel (06 1) 429 42 42 Light bites Map 7 B2 Étterem 
The global restaurant’s first Rákóczi út 54 Asian Map 7 B1
venue in Central Europe is Tel (06 70) 434 9898 Csengery utca 24
expensive, but the food on This eatery serves Balkan-style fast Tel (06 1) 351 12 89
offer is unquestionably stunning. food, with loads of juicy grilled The chefs from Kathmandu rustle
Wide selection of cocktails meats and oven-baked breads, up a range of dishes to suit all
and an enticing sushi bar. along with Slovenian beer. palates and budgets, including
some fairly spicy ones. Try the
tandoori specialities. Tasty vegan
options available.
Kogart Étterem 
Modern Hungarian Map 5 B4
Andrássy út 112
Tel (06 1) 354 38 20
Quite formal, this place only
serves lunches, but the menu
here is both interesting and
reasonably priced.
Millennium da Pippo 
Italian Map 5 A5
Andrássy út 76
Tel (06 1) 374 08 80
A fun Italian place where the
pasta and pizza dishes are only
outdone by a great range of
steaks in various sauces. There
Neo-Baroque interior at the Michelin-starred Onyx is a pleasant terrace.
Key to Price Guide see page 196

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  205

Napfényes Étterem 
Vegetarian Map 7 C1
Rózsa utca 39
Tel (06 1) 313 55 55
Vegetarian pizzas and vegan
ingredients are on offer at this
atmospheric, brick-vaulted cellar
restaurant. Try the grill platters.
Olimpia Étterem 
International Map 8 E1
Alpár utca 5
Tel (06 1) 321 06 80 Closed Sun &
Mon
This unique venture has a daily
changing menu – it can be
anything from a three-to-six
course meal. All dishes are full
of flavour. Good value.
The magnificent New York Kávéház at the Boscolo Budapest Hotel
Paprika Vendéglő 
Traditional Hungarian Map 6 D5 DK Choice DK Choice
Dózsa György út 72
Tel (06 1) 294 79 44 Bock Bisztró  La Perle Noire 
This restaurant serves traditional Modern Hungarian Map 7 A1 International Map 5 C4
Hungarian food, such as goulash, Erzsébet körút 43–49 Andrássy út 111
Hortobágy pancakes and leg of Tel (06 1) 321 03 40 Tel (06 1) 555 15 45
goose, but done with style. Don’t Named after the eponymous Inside the elegant MaMaison
miss the duck with berry sauce. Hungarian vintner, Bock is a hotel, this restaurant offers
classy establishment, from an exclusive gourmet dining
Platán Étterem  the elegant cork-filled glass experience, with a fantastic
Traditional Hungarian Map 5 C5 tables to the beautifully fusion menu comprising the
Városligeti fasor 46–48 crafted food. Well thought out likes of sweet potato shiitake
Tel (06 1) 322 66 15 tapas dishes complement ravioli, and home-smoked
At the base of a huge sycamore exciting renditions of rich salmon with wasabi yoghurt.
tree is this large dining hall Hungarian offerings like veal The dining area is beautifully
serving à la carte dishes as well paprika. The wine card is one designed, and there’s a pretty
as fast food options. Italian of the finest in Budapest. garden terrace for when the
dishes, including pizza, also weather turns summery. It also
feature on the menu. has a fine selection of local and
Gundel Étterem  international wines, plus a good
Rákóczi Grillház  Traditional Hungarian Map 5 C3 cocktail menu; try the RumBerry
Traditional Hungarian Map 7 C2 Gundel Károly út 4 or Apricot Fizz. Excellent service
Rákóczi út 57/A Tel (06 1) 468 40 40 and lovely atmosphere.
Tel (06 1) 333 13 42 Budapest’s most famous
Choose your ingredients and then restaurant offers innovative
watch them get cooked in front Hungarian and international Robinson 
of you. There's a selection of fish, cuisine in posh surrounds. People International Map 5 C3
meat and vegetables. Enjoyable, flock here for their Sunday brunch. Városligeti Tó
all-you-can-eat buffet-style menu. Tel (06 1) 422 02 22
The price also includes drinks. In an unbeatable location on
the lake, the outdoor terrace
Regős Vendéglő  is a wonderful spot to indulge
Traditional Hungarian Map 5 B5 in some exotic seafood dishes.
Szófia utca 33 Highlights include grilled
Tel (06 1) 321 19 21 pikeperch on a bed of creamy
This cosy brick-cellar restaurant spinach, duck leg served with
offers a lengthy menu of cabbage and gnocchi and the
Hungarian standards but with risottos. Great cocktails as well.
a nod to French influences. Try
the cold cherry soup or the veal Zeller Bistro 
paprikash and dumpling Modern Hungarian Map 7 B1
Izabella utca 38
Széchenyi Tel (06 30) 651 0880 Closed Sun &
Kertvendéglő  Mon
Traditional Hungarian Map 6 D3 This small but utterly charming
Állatkert körút 9–11 restaurant serves outstanding
Tel (06 30) 906 1294 nouvelle-cuisine. The flavourful
A smart restaurant in the building dishes on the weekly changing
complex of the famous spa, menu are made using fresh local
offering delicious traditional produce. You won’t find better
Hungarian cuisine and an Lively, modern dining room at the service anywhere in the city.
extensive wine list. Bock Bisztró Very popular, so book ahead.
For more information on types of restaurants see page 191
196-207_EW_Budapest.indd 205 15/09/16 10:30 am

206  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Normafa Rétes  Firkász Kávéház Étterem 
Patisserie Traditional Hungarian
Normafa Eötvös utca 50 Tátra utca 18
At this hut on the top of the Buda Tel (06 1) 450 11 18
Hills, you can choose from a Appropriately meaning “Scribbler”,
delectable selection of rétes to this restaurant has a quiet,
munch on alongside good coffee. literary atmosphere, with
old news papers and posters
Árnyas Étterem  covering the walls. Serves
Traditional Hungarian superb Hungarian food. Ideal
Diós árok 16 for a sedate dinner.
Tel (06 1) 212 56 81
Despite the trek to get here, this Fuji Étterem 
early 20th-century restaurant is Japanese
delightfully located and the food Csatárka út 54
is generously portioned and Tel (06 1) 325 71 11
tasty. Seasonally changing menu. In a pagoda-style interior, you
Outside seating in summer. can watch the chef at work
Cosy setting at traditional Hungarian while enjoying dishes such as
restaurant Firkász Kávéház Étterem Bajai Halászcsárda  a beauti fully presented selection
Fish of sashimi.
Hollós út 2
Further Afield Tel (06 1) 275 52 45 Kéhli Vendéglő 
Fresh river fish is the order of the Traditional Hungarian
day here, notably the Baja fish Mókus utca 22
DK Choice soup with a huge portion of carp Tel (06 1) 368 06 13
Briós kávézó  fillet on the side. Live traditional Standards at this delightful inn
Café Hungarian music most evenings. have not dropped since Gyula
Pozsonyi út 16 Helpful staff. Krúdy, the great Hungarian
Tel (06 1) 794 62 62 gourmet writer, ate here over
This delightful neighbourhood Dunapark Étterem és a century ago. Don’t miss the
café serves super breakfasts, Kávéház  pikeperch, a speciality here.
including American pancakes International
and filled croissants, French Pozsonyi út 38 Kerék Vendéglő 
toast and fruit skewers. There’s Tel (06 1) 786 10 09 Traditional Hungarian
an appealing lunch menu too, The location is terrific and the Bécsi út 103
including omelettes, sandwiches food is surprisingly varied. Good Tel (06 1) 250 42 61
and salad. The family-friendly breakfasts, delicious cakes, superb Another landmark restaurant
theme of this place extends ice cream and Italian coffee. up in Óbuda, the pretty garden
to a ded icated kids’ menu and Outside seating in summer and here is a lovely place to dine
a small play area upstairs, which live piano music in the evenings. out on the likes of deer stew.
is perfect as you indulge in Excellent soups.
coffee and cake downstairs. Fenyőgyöngye Vendéglő 
Traditional Hungarian Központ Bisztró 
Szépvölgyi út 155 Modern Hungarian/International
Cziniel Cukrászda  Tel (06 1) 325 97 83 Újpest, Szent István tér 1
Patisserie An incredibly popular, casual Tel (06 20) 374 9785
Nánási út 55 restaurant up in the Buda Hills, Situated in the centre of the
Tel (06 1) 240 11 88 this eatery offers traditional district of Újpest, this busy café
Fulfill all your sweet-toothed Hungarian fare made in a lighter, and restaurant has an appealing
fantasies at this large and healthier way. The long menu menu that changes each
popular terrace patisserie-cum- features tasty dishes, including season. The coffee and
café with ice-creams, sundaes soup, salad, fish, meat and poultry. burgers are a speciality.
and cakes galore.
Daubner Cukrászda 
Patisserie
Szépvölgyi út 50
Tel (06 1) 335 22 53
Head here for some of the finest
cakes and confectionery in
Budapest, but there are no seats,
and you will have to queue.
Kőbüfé Söröző 
Traditional Hungarian
Rege út 21
Tel (06 30) 212 6999
This small and welcoming family
restaurant makes for a convenient
pit-stop after an adventure on
the nearby cogwheel railway. Sit
outside on the terrace in summer. Pagoda-style interior at Fuji Étterem Japanese restaurant
Key to Price Guide see page 196

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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  207

Zöld Kapu Vendéglő 
Traditional Hungarian
Szőlő utca 42
Tel (06 1) 387 70 28
The “Green Door” restaurant is
a long-standing favourite, serving
huge portions of hearty food.
There are some tasty vegetarian
options too. The garden area is
particularly lovely with its
wooden green bench seating.
Chez Daniel 
French
Szív utca 32
Tel (06 1) 302 40 39
Choose from the daily specials
chalked up on the blackboard,
kick back and enjoy great
Pretty outside dining area at Remiz food. There’s a superb wine
list too.
Larus Étterem  Premium Café
International & Restaurant  Kisbuda Gyöngye 
Csörsz utca 18/B Traditional Hungarian Traditional Hungarian
Tel (06 1) 799 24 80 Országbíró utca 44–46 Kenyeres utca 34
Located in one of Buda’s most Tel (06 1) 877 76 00 Tel (06 1) 368 64 02
pleasant parks, this restaurant has This elegant restaurant serves This gorgeous restaurant has a
a huge terrace along with a quirky, both well-prepared classic natural, old-time drawing room
creative menu. Try the asparagus dishes, as well as international atmosphere, where guests can
and strawberry salad or the meat cuisine, alongside a stellar choice relax to the background of soft
soup with marrow toast to start. of beverages. piano music. The fish soup and
duck dishes are recommended.
Náncsi Néni Vendéglője  Remiz 
Traditional Hungarian Traditional Hungarian DK Choice
Ördögárok utca 80 Budakeszi út 5
Tel (06 1) 397 27 42 Tel (06 1) 384 18 96 Rosenstein 
This restaurant offers home- An eclectic range of food, Traditional Hungarian
styled interpretations of including Russian red caviar and Mosonyi utca 3
traditional Hungarian dishes. Serbian carp is served up in a Tel (06 1) 333 34 92
The giant túrógombóc (curd largely rustic-themed setting. In an area near Keleti station
cheese dumplings) is a favourite not known for fine dining,
dessert here. Rozmaring Kert this is a true standout; an
Vendéglő  inviting, family-run establish-
Négy Muskétás Étterem  Traditional Hungarian ment offering its guests a
Traditional Hungarian Árpád fejedelem útja 125 sophisticated menu, with
Tétényi út 18 Tel (06 1) 367 13 01 plates such as wild boar ragout
Tel (06 1) 203 14 01 It is the pretty setting on the with forest mushrooms, as
This faintly kitsch restaurant with banks of the Danube, opposite well as some Jewish favourites.
a leafy exterior and wooden Margit-Sziget, that makes this The wine list is similarly of the
interior offers an extensive menu long-standing favourite really highest order.
of heart-warming Hungarian fare, worth trekking to. Consistently
including goose. good food.
Öreghalász Étterem  Tanti 
Fish Modern Hungarian
Árpád út 20–22 Apor Vilmos tér 11–12
Tel (06 1) 231 08 00 Tel (06 20) 243 15 65
The subtle nautical decor gives One of the four Michelin-starred
away the fact that fresh river fish restaurants in Budapest, Tanti
is the speciality. Don’t miss the offers a contemporary take on
fish soup or the spicy fish stew. international food. The daily
Non-fish dishes are also available. lunch menu is pocket-friendly.
Good selection of wines.
Porcellino Grasso 
Italian Ypsilon Café 
Ady Endre utca 19 International
Tel (06 1) 886 78 80 Stefánia út 1
Despite the dull location, this is Tel (06 1) 468 33 57
an authentic Italian eatery, with Located in the Stadium district just
great pizza and pasta, though duck by the Stadionok metro station,
also features prominently. Good this establishment has a choice of
for families, as there’s a children’s local dishes alongside European Terrace overlooking the Danube at
play area next to the terrace. dishes such as BBQ chicken. Rozmaring Kert Vendéglő
For more information on types of restaurants see page 191
196-207_EW_Budapest.indd 207 15/09/16 10:30 am

208  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Pubs, Bars and Nightlife If money is no object, head for
the Bar and Lobby Lounge, in
To sample the true atmosphere of Budapest, it is essential to the magnificent Gresham Palace
visit the smaller, often quirkier, drinking establishments that hotel, or the super cool Blue
are scattered across the city and into the suburbs. Nowhere is Fox Bar in the Kempinski
this more evident than in the proliferation of uber-cool “ruin” Corvinus Hotel. In fact, most
of the top-end hotels have
pubs (also known as kerts or garden bars) – ramshackle bars bars offering a superb, albeit
set up in previously abandoned buildings and courtyards. expensive, selection of cocktails.
There are also a number of superb wine bars, reflecting the
country’s strong, though still little known about, viticultural Pubs and Bars
heritage. Elsewhere, bright neon and loud music reflect the The number, and variety, of
contemporary cultural interests of Budapest’s youth.
places to drink in Budapest has
improved beyond all recognition
Drinking Customs
normally grab a light snack, like thanks in no small part to the
You will find Budapest a very zsiros kenyér, bread and pork evolution of the so-called “ruin”
friendly and informal place to dripping garnished with raw pub. Set up in dilapidated build-
drink; if you sit at an empty table, onion and sprinkled with paprika; ings or the courtyards of ruined
others will probably join you. or pogácsa, a yeast pan-bread, blocks, these idiosyncratic dens
Note that in traditional pubs a served with crackling, cheese, are characterised by colourfully-
waiter will automatically bring caraway seeds or paprika. decorated, graffiti-strewn rooms
more beer as soon as you appear There are an increasing with furnishings seemingly
to be close to finishing your glass, number of more modern and plucked from the rubbish tip.
unless you indicate otherwise. sophisticated equivalents, Most ruin pubs are concentrated
Toasting a fellow drinker in notably Doblo and DiVino. within the boundaries of the
Hungarian is not the easiest task; There is also Drop Shop Wine seventh (Erzsébetváros) and
Egészségedre! (literally “To Your Bar, where you can taste wines eighth (Józsefváros) districts,
Health”) is the standard way to from every region in Hungary. where you’ll find big hitters such
toast (and even trickier to say Then there are the hotel wine as Szimplakert and Instant, the
after a few drinks). Traditionally bars, the best of which is to latter with in excess of a dozen
in Hungary it was not the done be found in the Hilton Hotel themed rooms. Others, like Most
thing to clink beer glasses (see p188), which houses a stylish Kortárs Bisztró and Szóda Cafe,
together with fellow drinkers. wine bar in a medieval cellar. have a slightly more relaxed vibe.
According to a legend, Austrians Moreover, any good Budapest Budapest is not short of
celebrated the execution of restaurant will have a decent conventional pubs and bars
Hungarian generals after the selection of wines on offer. either; there are dozens of hip
uprising of 1848–9 with beer. The places to drink, particularly
taboo has since passed, but don’t around Liszt Ferenc tér and
be offended if some Hungarians Cocktail Bars Ráday utca, whose alfresco bars
may still politely refuse to clink Budapest is alive with trendy do a roaring trade as soon as
beer glasses with you. cocktail bars that buzz from the weather picks up. Pick of the
the early evening onwards bunch here include Paris, Texas
with a young crowd, enjoying Kévézó. On nearby Jókai tér,
Wine Bars after-work drinks in the Italian Kiadó is a more intimate venue,
Unlike in countries such as fashion (aperitivo). conducive to more contem-
Britain or the United States where The trendiest establishments plative drinking. In summer, you
wine drinking is regarded as a tend to be found on Liszt Ferenc can find plenty of outdoor bars
somewhat middle-class pursuit, tér, one of the city’s main social along the banks of the Danube,
in Hungary it has traditionally hubs, particularly in spring and like Spoon, a large venue on the
been considered a workers’ summer when the cafés and river itself with five bars.
pastime. The old ways of drinking bars spill out onto the tree-lined One of the most lively and
wine are still to be found pavements; here you’ll find trendy areas for drinking, eating
underground, in the borozók of Circus Bar which has a or just going out is in and
Budapest, like Várfok Borozó, in repertoire of fancy cocktails and around the Jewish Quarter.
the Castle District, and Grinzingi serves its own branded beer, There are now more than 250
Borozó and Tokaji Borozó, while another nearby favourite places for all tastes. Gozsdu
both in downtown Pest. is the casual Boutiq’Bar. Court is a good place to start.
A traditional borozó is an In Buda, within a stone’s throw This renovated complex of eight
unglamorous, cheap wine cellar of the Castle District, a hip crowd buildings from 1901, with six
with few tables and chairs, and meets every evening at the inner yards connecting Király
where wine is served straight popular Oscar’s American Bar, utca and Dob utca, is full of
from the barrel and sold by the famous for its selection of more indoor and outdoor cafés, bars,
decilitre; here, too, you can than 200 cocktails. pubs, buffets and restaurants.




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WHERE T O EA T AND DRINK  209

Nightclubs and Discos performances. Perhaps the Gay Venues
Nightlife in Budapest is now most popular of the bohemian While not on the scale of most
up there with other European hangouts is Piaf, a decadent dive major European cities, there
capitals and there are stacks of reminiscent of a speakeasy. is an increasingly active gay
clubs scattered throughout the The outskirts of the city are scene in Budapest, with some
city. One big party place is home to some of the city’s terrific nightlife. The most well
Akvárium Klub on central biggest and best clubs, not known of Budapest’s gay bars
Erzsébet tér, with regular live least A38, a concert boat are Action Bar, AlterEgo Club
music, and a terrific terrace to moored just past Petőfi bridge and Coxx, the latter a massive
boot. Similarly, Corvintető, on the on the Buda side of the river. men-only complex with bar,
top floor of a department store on It is a cultural centre with a disco, restaurant, Internet
Blaha Lujza tér, has live music, DJs restaurant, bars and a concert café and gallery – it’s also
and the cities best drum’n’bass hall, and hosts numerous famous for its theme nights,
parties, while Ötkert has a regular national and international anything from fancy dress
roster of superstar DJs. A popular cultural events, exhibitions to no dress at all. For a more
new wave club in the city is Mika and festivals. laid-back vibe, there’s Habroló,
Tivadar Mulató, which is spread Many clubs are often centered a small, friendly place with a
over two floors in a restored 1907 around student venues: Liget neighbourhood atmosphere,
building with a courtyard. This Club and Bar is a massive, and Why Not Café and Bar
colourful cultural venue offers live sweaty joint that is popular with on Belgrád rakpart, which has
music and concerts, as well as art both locals and students alike. outdoor seating in the summers.
DIRECTORY
Wine Bars Bar and Lobby Spoon Ötkert
Lounge Vigadó tér 3. Zrinyi utca 4.
Drop Shop Four Seasons Gresham Map 2 D4. Map 2 D5.
Balassi Bálint 27. Palace Hotel. Széchenyi Tel (06 1) 411 09 33.
Map2 D2. Tel (06 30) 345 István tér 5–6. ∑ spoon.hu Tel (06 70) 330 86 52.
37 39. ∑ dropshop.hu ∑ otkert.hu
Map 2 D5. Szimplakert
DiVino Tel (06 1) 268 51 20. Kazinczy utca 14. Piaf
Szent István tér 3 Map 7 A3. Tel (06 20) 261 Nagymező utca 25.
Map 2 E5. Circus Bar 86 69. ∑ szimpla.hu Map 2 F3.
Tel (06 70) 935 39 80. Liszt Ferenc tér 11. Tel (06 1) 708 31 66.
∑ divinoborbar.hu Map 7 A1. Szóda Cafe
Doblo Tel (06 1) 413 67 64. Wesselényi utca 18. Gay Venues
Map 7 A3. Tel (06 1) 461
Dob utca 20. Oscar’s American Bar 00 07. ∑ szoda.com
Map 2 F5. Ostrom utca 14. Action Bar
Tel (06 20) 398 88 63. Map 1 A3. Nightclubs and Magyar utca 42.
∑ budapestwine.com Discos Map 4 F2.
Tel (06 20) 214 25 25.
Grinzingi Borozó A38 Ship Tel (06 1) 266 91 48.
Veres Pálné utca 10. Pubs and Bars ∑ action.gay.hu
Map 4 F2 (10 E5). Pázmány Péter sétány, AlterEgo Club
Tel (06 1) 317 46 24. Instant moored near the Buda Dessewffy utca 33.
Nagymező utca 38. end of Petőfi Bridge.
Tokaji Borozó Tel (06 1) 464 39 40. Map 2 F4.
Falk Miksa utca 32. Map 2 F3. Tel (06 1) 311 ∑ a38.hu Tel (06 70) 345 43 02.
Map 2 D2. 07 04. ∑ instant.co.hu ∑ alteregoclub.hu
Tel (06 1) 269 31 43. Kiadó Kocsma Akvárium Klub
Erzsébet tér
Várfok Borozó Jókai tér 3 Tel (06 30) 860 33 68. Coxx
Várfok u.10. Map 1 A3. Map 7 A1. ∑ akvariumklub.hu Dohány utca 38.
Tel (06 1) 212 31 80. Tel (06 1) 331 19 55. Map 7 A3.
Corvintető Tel (06 1) 344 48 84.
Cocktail Bars Most Kortárs Bisztró Blaha Lujza tér 1–2. ∑ coxx.hu
Zichy Jenő utca 17. Map 7 B3. Tel (06 20) 772
Blue Fox Bar Map 2 F4. 29 84. ∑ corvinteto.hu Habroló
Kempinski Corvinus Hotel, Tel (06 70) 248 33 22. Szép utca 1.
Erzsébet tér 5–6. Map 2 E5. Liget Club and Bar Map 4 F1. Tel (06 1) 950
Tel (06 1) 429 44 99. Paris, Texas Kévézó Népliget út 2. 66 44. ∑ habrolo.hu
Boutiq’Bar Ráday utca utca 22. Tel (06 70) 527 52 72.
∑ ligetclub.hu
1061 Budapest, Paulay Map 7 A5. Why Not Café and Bar
Ede utca 5. Map 2 F5. Tel (06 1) 218 05 70. Mika Tivadar Mulató Belgrád rakpart 3–4.
Tel (06 30) 554 23 23. ∑ paristexaskavehaz. Kazinczy utca 47. Map 7 Map 2 E2. Tel (06 1) 780
∑ boutiqbar.hu hu A3. Tel (06 20) 965 30 07. 45 45. ∑ whynotcafe.hu


208-209_EW_Budapest.indd 209 15/09/16 10:33 am

210  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS
SHOPS AND MARKETS


Shopping in Budapest has changed where locals come to do their shopping.
dramatically since the more spartan days of For a more tra ditional shopping experience,
Communism. A huge variety of consumer don’t miss a visit to some of Budapest’s
goods, both foreign and home produced, are many markets. These range from stunning
now avail able here. Major shopping streets 19th-century food halls such as the Great
include the pedestrianized and fashionable Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok), to flea
Váci utca (Váci Street, see p131), good for folk markets such as the huge and lively Ecseri
art and Zsolnay porcelain, and the less Flea Market, for everything from bric-a-brac
fashionable, but much cheaper Nagykörút, to furniture and antiques.

Opening Hours
Most shops in Budapest open
from 9am to 5:30 or 6pm Monday
to Friday, and from 9am to 1pm
on Saturday. Greengrocers,
bakeries and supermarkets open
from 7am until 8pm. Shopping
centres, department stores and
plazas are open from 10am to
9pm except Sundays, when
most shops that are not run
by the owners themselves
remain closed. A small number
of shops stay open twenty-
four hours a day.
Westend City Center shopping mall
How to Pay for signs at the entrance), but it VAT Exemption
Credit and debit cards can be is advisable to carry some cash The price of all goods in Hungary
used to pay for goods and in Hungarian forints as smaller includes a value-added tax of
services in many shops (check vendors may not accept cards. 27% (ÁFA). With the exception
of works of art and antiques, it is
possible for non-EU residents to
claim back the value-added tax
on anything costing more than
50,000 forints. However, before
buying expensive goods with
the intention of reclaiming the
VAT, it is advisable to consult
the vendor about whether they
have the necessary VAT-reclaim
form. Then, present your goods
at customs within 90 days of
purchase, along with the VAT-
reclaim form, to receive your
customs certification. You will
need your sales receipt and
currency exchange or credit
card receipt, plus the customs
certification, to apply for your
refund within 183 days of your
return home.

Department Stores
and Malls
On the Buda side of the Danube
is Allee, where one can find
Traditional folk crafts, on sale around Váci utca almost anything ranging from




210-211_EW_Budapest.indd 210 15/09/16 10:33 am

SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  211


clothing to electronics. More of
a mall than a depart ment store,
the Duna Plaza on Váci út is
smart but not centrally located.
Many large stores are
clustered in the old buildings of
Váci utca, such as C&A and Zara,
though most of these brands
can also be found in one place
in the modern shopping centres.
There are than 20 major
shopping malls in the city, which
have proved popular with both
locals and visitors. The most
centrally-located mall is Westend Fruit and vegetable stalls at Central Market Hall
City Center. One of Central
Europe’s largest, it has over 350 The three-level Great Market Hall from tiny cubicles inside the
stores, including Massimo Dutti, (Nagy Vásárcsarnok) known market, serious antique dealers
Gap, Nike and Marks & Spencer, officially as the Central Market sell porcelain, icons, silverware,
in addition to a 14-screen cinema Hall (Központi Vásárcsarnok) jewellery and much more.
and a food court with Hungarian on Fővám tér is the largest of all. It is necessary to obtain
and international fast food options. More than 180 stalls display a permission from Gyula Forster
The huge and stylish huge variety of vegetables, fruit, National Centre for Cultural
Mammut on Széna tér (next to meat and cheese, under a roof Heritage Management, located
Széll Kálmán tér) is frequented of brightly-coloured Zsolnay at Táncsics Mihály utca 1
by the better off inhabitants of tiles. The market opens from (Tel (06 1) 225 4800 or email:
Buda, and is easily accessible for 6am–5pm Mon–Fri and [email protected]),
those who do not have the 6am–2pm Sat (see p142). before you can take antiques
good fortune to live nearby. In many markets you will see out of the country.
More than 200 shops, independent farmers selling Another market well worth
including Mango, Benetton, and fruit and vegetables, as well a visit is the Inner City Market
Gant are housed in the modern as local cheeses, honey and Hall (Belvárosi Piac). Located
Arena Plaza shopping mall. sausages. Some of the best in the middle of the city, it
markets are at Lehel tér (district was built in 1897 and fully
XIII), Bosnyák tér (XIV), Fehérvári renovated in 2014. The market
út (IX) and Fény utca (II). specializes in fruit, vegetables
Delicious hot sausages with and food products, but is more
mustard and fresh bread, or popular for its high-quality
lángos, a flat salty dough fried in street food and buffets.
oil served with or without cream Held every second weekend
or grated cheese, are traditional in two locations depending on
and popular market snacks. the season, the WAMP Design
Beginning at 156 Nagykőrösi Fair gives young Hungarian
út in district XIX, is the Ecseri designers an opportunity to
Flea Market, open on weekends. sell their hand made items,
Outside, a maze of wooden including textiles, jewellery
tables is covered in Communist and kitchenware. There are
artifacts, second-hand clothes also stalls selling homemade
and all sorts of bric-a-brac, while delicacies like artisan sweets.
Delicate lace, an example of traditional
Hungarian folk art
Markets
Markets of all sorts are
an essential part of life in
Budapest, and offer a delight-
fully traditional shop ping
experience to visitors. Perhaps
the most spectacular are the five
cavernous market halls found
around the city. All were built
in the late 19th century and
several are still used as markets. Marks & Spencer, a branch of the British department store




210-211_EW_Budapest.indd 211 15/09/16 10:33 am

212  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

What to Buy in Budapest markets and in delicatessens
like Memories of Hungary.
Despite price rises since the return to a free-market economy, Hungary’s national beverage is
many Hungarian goods are still great bargains. Embroidered wine (see pp194–5) and there are
peasant blouses and wooden carvings make unique souvenirs, various top-quality bottles to
as does the distinctive porcelain produced at the world- look out for. These include fine
dessert wines from the Tokaji
famous Zsolnay and Herend factories. Cheap, good quality region, Muscats from Kiskunhalas
CDs and records are widely available, and Hungarian wines, on the central plain, and
salamis and other foodstuffs can be bought in the city’s many Chardonnays from Mátraalja.
lively markets. Clothes and shoes made to your specifications Also popular are the herbal
represent one of the city’s most luxurious bargains. liqueur Unicum, and the strong,
fiery pálinka, which is made
from plums, cherries or apricots.
Wines and spirits are available in
Folk Art
on many of the city’s notable supermarkets and in specialist
Hungarian folk culture is still alive buildings. Second-hand shops such as Borház and
and well in many parts of rural porcelain can be bought in House of Hungarian Pálinka.
Hungary. You can buy textiles, antiques shops and markets.
ceramics and woodwork from flea Both companies have shops Music
markets (see p211) and from folk selling new pieces.
art and souvenir shops around Hungary’s rich folk and classical
Váci utca and in the Castle District music traditions make low-
(see pp73–89). Folk art shops such Clothes and Shoes priced CDs, tapes and vinyl a
as Tekla Folklór, sell machine- Made-to-measure clothes tempting purchase in Budapest.
made products, and, for genuine and shoes, and ready-made For Hungarian folk music, from
Transylvanian textiles there is the designer clothes offer some traditional Roma (Gypsy) music
Korona Folklór hand-made shop. of the best deals to be had by to recordings of village folk
For the cheapest authentic folk visitors to Budapest. Many music, the old-style Rózsavölgyi
costumes, head for the Central people have clothes made up Zeneműbolt is a good choice.
Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok). in their choice of fabric by a Many record shops now operate
To buy folk, modern art, souvenirs local tailor – who is likely to online only, but most book shops
and Hungarian delicacies, or just be happy to oblige for a fairly and second hand book shops
look at the unique whale-shaped modest fee. At the smart end still sell CDs and music DVDs.
building on the bank of the of the market, there is Náray
Danube, visit Bálna, which has Tamás Atelier, the showcase for Books
several such shops and a market. one of the most famous fashion
designers in Hungary. Orex is For illustrated books and English-
one of the country’s most language guide-books, try the
Antiques
exclusive jewellers. Shoemakers Litea Bookstore and Café,
Dominated by 18th- and in Budapest tend to make only where you can browse while
19th-century pieces in the men’s shoes. Vass will make enjoying coffee and cakes at
Habsburg style, the Budapest a one-off pair of dress shoes tables set among the shelves.
antiques scene is concentrated in about a month for around Bookstation stocks new and
in the Castle District, around 200,000 Hungarian forints. secondhand books, as well as
Falk Miksa utca and on Váci utca many books in English. A range
(Váci Street, see p131). Moró of English-language newspapers,
Antik is a tiny shop specializing Food and Drink magazines and novels are
in 18th-century weapons, while Food and wine in Hungary available at Bestsellers. Írók
the huge Nagyházi Gallery are great value and make Boltja sells art books and some
sells everything from jewellery excellent souvenirs. Sausage English-language books.
to furniture. The Ecseri Flea is a national passion and can Librotrade-Kodex stocks books
Market (see p211) is also a good be bought in shops and in English, French and German.
place for antiques. markets all over the city. Some For antique books, etchings
of the most popular types and maps a good place to
include spicy sausages from try is Központi Antikvárium.
Porcelain Debrecen, smoked sausages Famulus Foreign Language
There are two major porcelain from Gyulai and a whole range Bookshop has English literature
manufacturers in Hungary, of world-famous salamis. Also and books about Hungary, as
Herend and Zsolnay. Herend worth bringing home are dried well as dictionaries and books
enjoys a reputation as the mushrooms, paté de foie gras, for language learners. Libri,
producer of the country’s a string of paprika or some Alexandra and Líra are three
finest porcelain, while Zsolnay’s fresh sheep’s cheese. All these bookstore chains that can be
brightly glazed tiles can be seen can be bought in Budapest’s found in most malls in the city.




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SHOPS AND M ARKE T S  213


DIRECTORY
Department Lehel tér Market Clothes and Books
Stores and Malls Váci út 48 (Lehel tér). Shoes
Map 2 F1. Alexandra Könyvesház
Allee Náray Tamás Atelier
Október huszonharmadika WAMP Design Fair Andrássy út 97. Andrássy út 39. Map 2 F4.
utca. 8–10 Map 2 E5. Late May–early Sep: Map 10 E5. Tel (06 1) 484 80 00.
Tel (06 1) 372 72 08. Erzsébet tér. Map 2 E5. Tel (06 1) 266 24 73.
Open 10am–10pm Mon– Late Sep–early May: Bestsellers
Sat. ∑ allee.hu Millenáris, Kisrókus utca Orex Október 6 utca 11.
16–20. Map 1 A2. Petőfi Sándor utca 6.
Arena Plaza ∑ wamp.hu Map 4 E1. Map 2 E4 (10 D2).
Kerepesi út. Map 8 E2. Tel (06 1) 266 63 04. Tel (06 1) 312 12 95.
Tel (06 1) 880 70 10. Folk Art ∑ bestsellers.hu
Open 10am–10pm Mon– Vass Cipőbolt
Sat. ∑ arenaplaza.hu Bálna Haris köz 2. Map 4 E1. Bookstation
Fővám tér 11–12. Tel (06 1) 318 23 75.
Duna Plaza Map 4 F3. ∑ vass-shoes.hu Katona József utca 13.
Váci út 178. ∑ balnabudapest.hu Map 2 E1.
Tel (06 1) 465 16 66. Food and Drink Tel (06 1) 413 11 58.
∑ dunaplaza.hu Korona Folklór
Szentháromság utca 5. ∑ bookstation.hu
Mammut I–II Mall Map 1 B4. Borház
Lövőház út 3. Map 1 A2. Tel (06 1) 212 76 40. Jókai tér 7. Famulus Foreign
Tel (06 1) 345 80 20. Map 2 F3 (10 F1). Language
Open 10am–10pm Tekla Folklór Tel (06 1) 353 48 49. Bookshop
Mon–Sat. Váci utca 56.
∑ mammut.hu Map 4 E1 (10 D3). House of Ujpesti rakpart 6.
Tel (06 1) 486 00 58. Hungarian Pálinka Tel (06 1) 288 07 71.
Westend City Center Open 9am–9pm daily. Rákóczi út 17.
Váci út 1–3. Map 2 F2. Map 7 A3. ∑ famuluskonyv.hu
Tel (06 1) 238 77 77. Antiques Open 9am–7pm Mon– Írók Boltja
∑ westend.hu
Moró Antik Sat. ∑ magyar Andrássy út 45.
Markets Falk Miksa utca 13. palinkahaza.hu Map 2 F4 (10 E2).
Map 2 D2. Malatinszky Wine Tel (06 1) 322 16 45.
Central Market Tel (06 1) 311 08 14.
Hall (Központi Store Központi
Vásárcsarnok) Nagyházi Gallery József Attila utca 12. Antikvárium
Vámház körút 1–3 Balaton utca 8. Map 2 D2. Map 2 E5 (10 D3). Múzeum Körút 13–15.
(Fővám tér). Map 4 F3. Tel (06 1) 475 60 00. Tel (06 1) 317 59 19.
Tel (06 1) 217 60 67. Porcelain ∑ malatinszky.hu Map 4 F1 (10 E4).
Open 6am–5pm Mon, Memories of Hungary Tel (06 1) 317 35 14.
6am–6pm Tue–Fri, Herend Shops
6am–3pm Sat. József Nádor tér 11. Hercegprímás utca 8. Libri Könyvpalota
Map 2 E5.
Ecseri Flea Market Map 2 E5 (10 D3). Tel (06 1) 780 58 44. Rákóczi út 12. Map 7 A3.
Nagykőrösi út 156. Tel (06 1) 317 26 22. ∑ memoriesof Tel (06 1) 481 36 94.
Tel (06 1) 348 32 00. Szentháromság utca 5. hungary.hu
Open 8am–4pm Mon– Tel (06 1) 225 10 50. Librotrade-Kodex
Fri, 5am–3pm Sat, Andrássy út 16. Music Honvéd utca 5.
8am–1pm Sun. Map 2 F4. Map 7 C3.
Tel (06 1) 374 00 06.
Fehérvári út Market ∑ herend.com Liszt Ferenc Book Tel (06 1) 428 10 10.
Fehérvári út 20. and Music Store
Map 4 D5. Zsolnay Shops Andrássy út 45. Líra Bookshop
József krt. 59–61. Map 2 F5 (10 E2). Múzeum krt. 17. Map 10
Fény utca Market Map 7 B4. Tel (06 1) 322 40 91. F5. Tel (06 1) 317 49 48.
Lövőhás utca 12. Tel (06 1) 318 70 93.
Map 1 A3. Kecskeméti u.14. Rózsavölgyi Litea Bookstore
Tel (06 1) 345 41 12. Zeneműbolt
Map 4 F2. and Café
Inner City Market Hall Tel (06 1) 318 26 43. Szervita tér 5. Hess András tér 4.
(Belvárosi Piac) Hercegprímás utca 8. Map 4 E1 (10 D4). Map 1 B4 (9 A2).
Hold utca 13. Map 2 E5. Tel (06 1) 318 35 00.
Tel (06 1) 353 11 10. Tel (06 1) 780 58 44. Open 10am–10pm Tel (06 1) 375 69 87.
Open Mon–Sat. ∑ zsolnay.hu Mon–Sat. Open 10am–6pm.




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214  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

ENTERTAINMENT IN BUDAPEST

Budapest has been known as a city of enter- Between the wars the city was as famous for
tainment since the late 19th century, when its glittering society balls as for its libertine
people would travel here from Vienna in delights. The half-century of Communist rule
search of a good time. Its nightclubs were dampened the rev elry, but since 1990 the
frequented for their exciting atmo sphere and music scene has flourished and theatres,
the beautiful girls that danced the spirited cabarets, festivals, cinemas and discotheques
csárdás and the cancan. It was said that there are all buzzing again. Budapest continues to
was nowhere else where fiddlers played such offer something for every interest, whether
heartrending music or casinos witnessed you prefer opera to jazz or horse racing to a
such staggering losses as in Budapest. football match.

Entertainment Highlights Új Színház (New Theatre) Unfortunately, entry to
Budapest has two opera houses, (see p217), which puts on Budapest’s museums is not
an orchestral concert hall at the performances in English. free, although perman ent
Liszt Academy of Music (see Film-lovers are spoilt for exhibitions are usually cheaper
p216), several other concert choice, as Budapest boasts than temporary ones.
halls including the city’s largest many cinemas (see p217).
venue, the Béla Bartók National Városliget (see pp146–7)
Concert Hall with Europe’s offers a permanent circus and
largest concert hall organ at a zoo, with bars and beer tents
Müpa Budapest (see p160). Also in the summer.
located there is the Festival A38 Ship is a music club in a
Theatre, which serves as an converted ship and Millenáris
outstanding venue for dance, is a concert venue and cultural
chamber operas, musical and centre with a varied programme,
theatrical perfor mances, and including festivals and exhibi-
concerts. Plus, there is an tions. The Budapest Arena
operetta theatre, numerous holds 12,000 spectators, and
cabarets and more than 50 stages a range of cultural events.
theatres, including the fringe. There are also a few casinos and
The greatest concentration striptease shows to enjoy as
of theatres is in district V, in part of Budapest’s nightlife.
Nagymezö utca, which has
been nicknamed “Budapest’s Lavishly staged opera at the Hungarian
Broadway”. Along this 100-m Free Entertainment State Opera (see p216)
(328-ft) stretch there are It is not difficult to find excellent,
theatres such as the Operetta free entertainment in Budapest. Buying Tickets
Theatre (see p216) and During the summer, there always Tickets for all plays and concerts
seem to be street entertainers can be purchased in advance,
and musicians wandering either at a booking office or by
around the Castle District, often telephoning the venue direct.
in elaborate period costume, Addresses and telephone
playing instruments or acting numbers are listed in the
out scenes from Hungarian directory on pages 216–17.
history. During the Budapesti The most difficult tickets to
Búcsú in June (see p63), all obtain are those for the Liszt
entertainments, from singing Academy of Music concerts,
and dancing to theatre, are as these tend to be sold
staged by the city council for many days in advance; try
free. In July, the Danube Water the website or ticket office.
Carnival offers most of its thrills Similarly, seats at opera and
without charge, and the operetta performances sell
Budapest Summer Festival, out quickly. The best way of
Budapest’s largest summer securing a seat, particularly for
festival, offers a series of events summer performances, is via
every weekend, from mid-July Rózsavölgyi Jegyiroda or
to September. Hungarian Ticket Express, which are
Actors in satirical cabaret performed in culture, handicrafts, music located right in the centre of
many theatres and folklore are celebrated. town, close to Vörösmarty tér.




214-215_EW_Budapest.indd 214 15/09/16 10:33 am

ENTER T AINMENT IN BUD APEST  215


In Budapest, like Hungarian Disabled
anywhere else, you Association (see
can risk it and try p225). Places
buying returned tickets which are equipped
at the last minute. A for disabled visitors
cheap option, but not include the Mátyás
for the weary, is to buy Church (see pp86–7),
a standing-room pass. the Hungarian State
Opera (see pp122–
3) and the Liszt
Late Night Academy of Music
Transport
(see p133). The Dancers of the Hungarian National Ballet
Budapest’s metro (see pedestrianized Liszt Company perform at the State Opera House
p238) runs until just Ferenc tér, with
after 11pm. Night its preponderance of Both port.hu and est.hu list
services (buses plus outdoor cafés and the most popular film, music,
tram 6 on the Grand terraces is also perfect television and theatre
Boulevard) run from for disabled travellers. programme guides, but are
around 11:50pm The bars and pubs only available in Hungarian.
through the night of Central Pest,
until the regular Poster pillar many of which
service resumes at are located in Late-Night Scams
around 4:30am. Night services basements, are not. Note Budapest is generally a very
are numbered 900–999. that many venues (including safe city, but it is not without
Separate schedules for night the State Opera House) its dangers, especially late at
and day buses are posted at the offer small reductions for night. Tourists are seen as easy
relevant stops. A major hub for disabled visitors. prey by fraudsters, and it is
night bus lines is Astoria. The important to stay alert at all
solo night buses are front-door times. Attractive peroxide-
boarding only; on articulated Listings Magazines blondes promenading Váci utca
vehicles ticket inspection is The best Budapest listings and introducing themselves to
carried out at every door. The publication is the bi-weekly single men may appear friendly
stop-request button is situated Funzine, which is published and genuine at first sight,
above the exit door. in Hungarian as well as in but, alas, they are not. If they
English. It is available in bars, insist you join them for a drink
restaurants, hotels and in a bar of their choice, you
Disabled Access shops. Visitors should also should refrain from doing so.
Much work has been done try the Budapest Times, an They are not prostitutes, but
since Hungary joined the English-language weekly “consumption girls”, employed
European Union to make newspaper that lists the best by bars to bring in foreign men
the country’s venues accessi ble current events. Pesti Est, to buy them drinks – which, as
to as wide a range of people although in Hungarian only, will become apparent only
as possible. However, a lot of is also available online. A after the bill arrives, cost tens of
Budapest’s older venues are far useful listings website is thousands of Hungarian forints.
from wheelchair-friendly. It is welovebudapest.com, which Although a number of bars
best to check before visiting has pages in English and an that carry out this practice have
by getting in touch with the extensive list of programmes. been closed by the authorities,
it still goes on. Always check
how much you are paying for
a drink and be wary of instant
female friends.
Late nights are also the
delight of unscrupulous taxi
drivers, eager to make a killing
from tipsy tourists. Never get
into a taxi that does not clearly
state it belongs to a reputable
taxi company, or which does
not display its tariffs on the side
of the driver’s door. Licensed
taxis are painted yellow and
must use the same fixed prices.
Always ask for a rough estimate
The elegant interior of the Liszt Academy of Music (see p216) of the cost before getting in.




214-215_EW_Budapest.indd 215 15/09/16 10:33 am

216  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Music ensemble but also stages
independent concerts. During
Thanks to great composers such as Liszt, Bartók and Kodály July and August the city is
(see p148), and the wealth of its folk tradition, Hungary is visited by folk troupes from all
famous for its music. Hungarians have always been a nation over the country.
of music lovers; in addition to performances by national From October to May, the
city’s dance houses rock to the
artists, Budapest is frequently visited by revered musicians sounds of fiddles and flutes.
from around the world. One of the most renowned is
Fonó Budai Zeneház, which
stages peasant and gypsy bands
Opera and Operetta Sacred Music
from Transylvania. The popular
The standard of opera in Concerts of organ music Marczibányi téri cultural centre
Budapest is high. Perfor man ces are held between March stages folk and gypsy music
are at the Hungarian State and December in the events, and house music, as well
Opera (see pp122–3) or the Erkel magnificent setting of the as playing host to various other
Theatre (see p155). At both there Mátyás Church (see pp86–7). arts events and shows.
is a mainly classical repertoire, Among the composers whose
sung in Italian. The secondary works are featured, Bach is
focus is on Hungarian works. the most popular. St Stephen’s Jazz
The Operetta Theatre (see p119) Basilica (see pp120–21) serves Jazz was very late in reaching
stages Hungarian operettas. sporadically as the venue Hungary. The best known
for concerts of choral music. and revered Hungarian jazz
Between March and October band is the Benkó Dixieland
Classical Music the Musica Sacra Agency Band, which during Spring
The Liszt Academy of Music (see organizes concerts in the Festivals (see p62) plays in
p133) is the leading venue for Great Synagogue (see p138). various theatres and large
classical music. The city’s largest halls. The best place for jazz-
venue is the Béla Bartók lovers to congregate is
National Concert Hall (see p160). Folk and Gypsy Music Columbus Jazz Club, where
Concerts are some times held in Performances of folk and gypsy Hungary’s best players perform
the domed hall of Parliament music are held at the Duna from 8:30pm every evening.
(see pp112–13), which has great Palota and Hungarian Heritage The club boasts views of the
acoustics, and at the Budapest House. Watch out for shows by Danube and it is a good idea
Congress Center (see p164). the Hungarian State Song and to reserve a table. The Cotton
Budapest also has a strong tradition Dance Ensemble and a gypsy Club at the Cotton House hotel
of music festivals, (see pp62–5). band that is part of the (see p186) is also very popular.
DIRECTORY
Tickets Operetta Theatre Sacred Music Fonó Budai Zeneház
Nagymező utca 17. Map 2 Sztregova utca 3.
Rózsavölgyi F3. Tel (06 1) 312 48 66. Great Synagogue Map 2 E5 (10 D3).
Jegyiroda Dohány utca 2–8. Tel (06 1) 206 53 00.
Szervita tér 5. Map 4 E1. Classical Music Map 7 A3.
Tel (06 1) 266 83 37. Tel (06 1) 462 04 77. Hungarian Heritage
Béla Bartók National House
Ticket Express Concert Hall Mátyás Church Corvin tér 8.
Váci út 1 (Westend City Müpa Budapest Szentháromság tér 2. Map 1 C4 (9 A2).
Center mall). Map 10 E2. Map 1 B4 (9 A2). Tel (06 1) 225 60 56.
Tel 0630 303 09 99. Komor Marcell utca 1. Tel (06 1) 355 56 57.
Tel (06 1) 555 30 00.
Dalszinház utca 10. Marczibányi téri
Map 2 F4. ∑ tex.hu Budapest Congress St Stephen’s Basilica Művelődési Központ
Center Szent István tér. Marczibányi tér 5/A.
Opera and Jagelló út 1–3. Map 2 E4 (10 D2). Tel (06 1) 212 28 20.
Operetta Tel (06 1) 372 54 00. Tel (06 70) 407 85 94 Jazz
Erkel Theatre Liszt Academy of (concert ticket bookings).
II. János Pál pápa tér 30. Music Folk and Gypsy Columbus Jazz Club
Map 7 C3. Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 7 Music Vigadó tér, Dock 4.
Tel (06 1) 332 61 50. A1. Tel (06 1) 321 06 90. Map 4 D1.
Hungarian State Parliament Duna Palota Tel (06 1) 266 90 13.
Opera Kossuth Lajos tér. Zrínyi utca 5. Cotton Club
Andrássy út 22. Map 2 F4. Map 2 D3 (9 C1). Map 2 E5 (10 D2). Jókai utca 26. Map 2 F3.
Tel (06 1) 353 01 70. Tel (06 1) 441 40 00. Tel (06 1) 235 55 00. Tel (06 1) 354 08 86.





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Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Practical template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1.7)
Date 5th March 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

ENTER T AINMENT IN BUD APEST  217

Theatre, Cinema and Casinos leaving cinema-goers free to
choose which version they
Budapest has many theatres, which are worth visiting not prefer. Those who do not
only for their impressive repertoires, but also because they understand Hungarian should
are invariably located in beautiful, historic buildings. Cinemas choose the angol nyelvű (English
show the latest films, although few retain the original soundtrack) version of the film.
For films in English with no
soundtrack. For late-night dancing, the city has a wealth subtitles at all, look out for the
of popular clubs to choose from. words, angol nyelvű, felirat nélkül.
Apart from foreign films,
the cinemas also show native
Theatre
which host satirical cabaret Hungarian films. The range
The National Dance Theatre shows. The most prestigious is covers both the latest
regularly hosts performances the József Katona Theatre, releases and vintage films from
at different venues. Other which became famous following a time of Hungarian cinematic
established theatres include perfor man ces in Paris and glory, notably when Miklós
the Madách Theatre, Festival London. The Vígszínház, Jancsó and István Szabó
Theatre, Nemzeti Theatre meaning “comedy theatre”, received international awards
and Pesti Theatre. The Új specializes in musicals for directing. The Moorish style
Színház (New Theatre) also (as does the Madách Theatre). In Uránia Nemzeti Filmszínház
performs in English. Trafó is summer rock-operas are staged film palace has operated as a
an exciting showcase for all on Margaret Island. These shows cinema since 1899.
the contemporary arts. are remarkable both for the All cinema tickets can be
The Budapest Secret Theatre quality of the production and bought a few hours in advance.
produces and shares English the magnificent island setting. Some cinemas will sell tickets
language theatre performances for showings the next day.
in Budapest and Central Europe.
They have no permanent venue Cinema Casinos
or repertoire, but create Many of Budapest’s cinemas
opportunites for the English- were built during the 1920s and Budapest has five well-
speaking community in 1930s and, despite renovations, established casinos. To enter a
Hungary to experience English have been superceded by regular casino you must show
theatre in the original language, modern multiplexes such as a passport or official ID.
and for actors working in those in the shopping malls At the casinos listed below,
Hungary to perform in English. Duna Plaza, Westend City players can try roulette, Black
Visit their website for the latest Center, and Corvin Filmpalota. Jack, poker and the wheel of
information on performances. Most foreign films in Hungary fortune. Both are open 24 hours
Budapest has over 30 are now both dubbed and a day. Casino Tropicana,
drama and cabaret theatres, subtitled into Hungarian, requires evening dress.
DIRECTORY
Theatre National Dance Vígszínház Casinos
Theatre Szent István körút 14.
Budapest Secret Tel (06 1) 201 44 07. Map 2 E1. Casino Tropicana
Theatre ∑ tancszinhaz.hu Tel (06 1) 329 23 40. Vigadó utca 2.
Map 4 D1.
∑ budapestsecret Nemzeti Theatre Cinema Tel (06 1) 266 30 62.
theatre.com Bajor Gizi Park 1.
Map 7 B1. Corvin Filmpalota Las Vegas Casino
Festival Theatre Tel (06 1) 476 68 68. Corvin köz 1. Széchenyi István tér 2
Palace of the Arts, Tel (06 1) 459 50 50. (Sofitel Budapest
Komor Marcell utca 1. Pesti Theatre Palace Duna Plaza Chain Bridge).
Váci utca 9.
Tel (06 1) 555 30 00. Map 4 E1 (10 D4). Váci út 178. Map 2 D5.
Tel (06 1) 266 20 81.
József Katona Tel (06 1) 266 55 57. Tel (06 1) 999 61 61.
Theatre Trafó Palace West End
Petöfi Sándor utca 6. Liliom utca 41. Váci út 1–3.
Map 4 E1 (10 D4). Map 7 B5. Map 2 F2.
Tel (06 1) 317 40 61. Tel (06 1) 215 16 00. Tel (06 1) 999 61 61.
Új Színház Uránia Nemzeti
Madách Theatre (New Theatre) Filmszínház
Erzsébet körút 29–33. Paulay Ede utca 35. Rákóczi út 21.
Map 7 A2. Map 2 F5. Map 7 A3.
Tel (06 1) 478 20 41. Tel (06 1) 269 60 21. Tel (06 1) 486 34 13.




216-217_EW_Budapest.indd 217 15/09/16 10:33 am

218  TR A VELLERS ’ NEEDS

Sports Particularly popular is the
Hajós Olympic Pool on Margaret
Hungarians are fine athletes, as is testified by their consistently Island, which is named after
outstanding performances at competitive events, such as the Hungary’s first Olympic gold
Olympic Games. Budapest’s world-class sports facilities serve winner for swimming, who
as venues for many of these international events, including was also the pool’s architect.
Busy open-air swimming
European and World championships. Sporting opportunities options include Császár
for visitors to the city are both varied and accessible. Komjádi Uszoda and the
neighbouring Lukács Baths
(see p105), both of which can
Spectator Sports Horse Racing and be enjoyed even in winter as
Riding
Most competitive sporting events the hot spring water creates
are held either in the Ferenc As a nation of former nomads, a steamy atmosphere over
Puskás Stadium (see p159), the Hungarians have retained the water’s surface. For the
which currently seats 78,000 a great love of horses. In deepest spa water in the city,
spectators and is planned to be Budapest this passion finds head to the Széchenyi Baths
fully reconstructed by 2017, or its expression in horse racing, (see p155), which is the largest
in the mod ern, indoor Papp which is enormously popular. bathing complex in Europe.
László Budapest Sportaréna. A few hours spent at a racetrack However, the most atmospheric
Football remains the most can be a cheap and fun way and beautiful baths, and also
popular spectator sport, although of soaking up the local the hottest, are undoubtedly
it’s been some time since the atmosphere. Near the Albertirsai the 16th-century Turkish Rudas
national side was highly út is the Trotters’ Racecourse, Baths (see p97).
successful. In the 1950s, for at the Kincsem Park. Cycling is also gaining in
instance, Hungary beat England Those wishing to be rather popularity, particularly since the
6:3 at Wembley. League matches more energetic and ride instead introduction of cycling lanes to
in Budapest attract big crowds. of watch horses, should contact the city’s roads (see p237). If you
The atmos phere is particularly the National Riding School, want to play tennis, there are
electric when local favourites the Petneházy School, or the numerous courts available, but
Ferenc város, FTC, take to the pitch. Aranypatkó Riding Club. these tend to be monopolized
Two of the three great events by local Hungarians. Your best
regularly held in Budapest are the bet for a game is to befriend
Vivicitta Half Marathon and the Sporting Activities a local tennis player, or find a
Budapest Marathon. These are Practising sport for fitness hotel that has its own court.
run mid-April and mid-October, and pleasure is both cheap Despite the moderate climate,
respectively. The third big and popular in Budapest. it is also possible to undertake
sporting event is the Formula 1 Strolling through the city’s winter sports in Budapest.
Hungarian Grand Prix (see p63), parks, particularly on Margaret From December until March the
which takes place in August at Island, you will encounter scores Városliget Lake (see pp146–7)
the Mogyoród racing circuit. of eager joggers, both young is turned into a skating ring and
Hungarians achieve and not so young. The indoor many people take to the ice.
impressive results in boxing, and outdoor swimming pools Sváb Hill (see p165) is generally
canoeing, swimming, water are also full of regular visitors, snow-covered from December
polo and fencing, which are who come here for an hour to March and has several ski
all widely supported. or so of healthy exercise. runs and ski lifts.
DIRECTORY
Spectator Sports Horse Racing Petneházy School Lukács Baths
and Riding Feketefej utca 2–4. Frankel Leó utca 25–29.
Ferenc Puskás Tel (06 1) 397 50 48. Map 1 C1.
Stadium Aranypatkó Riding Tel (06 1) 326 16 95.
Istvánmezei út 3–5. Club Swimming Pools ∑ budapestspas.hu
Map 8 F1. Aranyhegyi út 18.
Tel (06 1) 471 41 00. Tel (06 70) 363 15 53. Császár Komjádi Rudas Baths
∑ magyarfutball.hu Kincsem Park Uszoda Döbrentei tér 9.
Albertirsai út 2–4. Frankel Leó út 55. Map 4 D2.
Papp László Map 1 B1. Tel (06 1) 356 13 22.
Budapest Sportaréna Tel (06 1) 433 05 20. Tel (06 1) 212 27 50.
Stefánia út 2. National Riding Széchenyi Baths
Map 8 F1. School Hajós Olympic Pool Allatkerti körút 11.
Tel (06 1) 422 26 00. Kerepesi út 7. Margitsziget. Map 6 D3.
∑ budapestarena.hu Tel (06 1) 210 26 63. Tel (06 1) 450 42 20. Tel (06 1) 363 32 10.





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ENTER T AINMENT IN BUD APEST  219

Children’s Budapest Indoor Attractions
Budapest Bábszínház and
Visiting Budapest can be made great fun for children. There Kolibri Színház are two of
are several choices of energetic outdoor pursuits, including several puppet theatres that
a funfair, a terrific zoo and, of course, a range of glorious of stage international favourites,
swimming venues. If the weather is poor, the city’s historic such as The Jungle Book,
Cinderella and Snow White,
buildings, museums and art galleries will entertain and inform. as well as Hungarian classics.
In addition, a handful of puppet theatres cater specifically for The shows are all performed
younger audiences, although the shows are in Hungarian. in Hungarian.
Tropicarium Budapest is the
largest sea aquarium in Central
Sightseeing for Kids Swimming Europe. As well as the thousands
Busy Pest is a difficult area The most suitable complex for of colourful fish in the aquariums,
in which to entertain kids, but young families is the seasonal there are exotic birds, squirrel
the Postal Museum(see p149), Palatinus Strand (see p55) on monkeys, alligators and tortoises.
set in an opulent 19th-century Margaret Island, where there are Next to the Tropicarium is the
mansion, is well worth a visit. pools of varying temperatures, Center of Scientific Wonders, a
In Buda’s Royal Palace (see water slides and artificial waves. “physics playhouse” where more
pp74–5) and Castle District (see During the winter season, than 100 interactive games and
pp72–89), the city’s long history the Gellért Hotel and Baths installations help children to
can be appreciated just by Complex (see pp94–5) is a better learn about the laws of physics
wandering round the ancient and alternative. Here, the large swim- in a fun and exciting way.
lovely buildings. The Hungarian ming pool has artificial waves,
National Gallery (see pp78–81) and the paddling pool’s warm
feeds young imaginations, as water is wonderful for toddlers. Scenic Railways
does the fabulous turul, the Aquaworld Budapest, a vast Children love the trip up into
statue of a mythical giant bird indoor water theme park, is a the Buda Hills (see p165). The
that stands in the Palace Court- great place for a family day out. first stage is a ride on the cog-
yard. The magnificently carved wheel railway that runs up
Mátyás Fountain (see pp76–7) Széchényi Hill. At the top, there
is also worth a look. Circus and Zoo is a playground and the start of
In the Old Town, the People of all ages love the the Children’s Railway, which
Labyrinth (see p89) on Lords’ Budapest Zoo (see pp154–5), follows the ridge of the hills to
Street is a bizarre underground which is one of the best in the Hűvös Valley. The way back
exhibition that fascinates Europe. Attractions include a down is on the Libegő chair-lift
kids, and there are displays large sea-water aquarium, a that runs from the top of János
of armour and weapons in the terrarium and an aviary. Hill to Zugliget (linked by bus
Museum of Military History A visit to the Great Capital 291 to Nyugati Railway Station).
(see p89). A final “must” is a ride Circus is an easy way to keep Young railway enthu siasts
on the Budavári Sikló funicular kids occupied. The daily shows also enjoy the Railway History
railway (see p239). often star international artists. Park (see p160).

DIRECTORY
Sightseeing Museum of Military Gellért Hotel and Indoor Attractions
History Baths Complex
Budavári Sikló Tóth Árpád Sétany 40. Kelenhegyi út 4. Map 3 Budapest Bábszínház
Clark Ádám tér, Szent Map 1 A4. C3. Tel (06 1) 466 61 66. Andrássy út 69. Map 5 A5
György tér. Tel (06 1) 356 95 22. (10 E2). Tel (06 1) 321 52 00.
Map 1 C5 (9 B3). Palatinus Strand Center of Scientific
Postal Museum Margitsziget.
Hungarian National Benczúr utca 27. Map 5 Tel (06 1) 340 45 05. Wonders (Csodák
Gallery B5. Tel (06 1) 322 42 40. Palotája)
Szent György tér 2. Circus and Zoo Nagytétényi út 37–43.
Map 3 C5. Royal Palce Tel (06 30) 210 55 69.
∑ csopa.hu
Tel (06 1) 375 55 67. Map 1 5C (9 B4). Great Capital Circus
Állatkerti körút 7.
Labyrinth Swimming Map 5 C3. Kolibri Színház
Jókai tér 10. Map 2 F3 (10
Úri utca 9. Aquaworld Tel (06 1) 343 83 00. F1). Tel (06 1) 311 08 70.
Map 1 A4 (9 A2).
Budapest Zoo Tropicarium Budapest
Mátyás Fountain Íves út 16. Állatkerti körút 6–12. Nagytétényi út 37–43.
Royal Palace. Tel (06 1) 231 37 60. Tel (06 1) 273 49 00. Tel (06 1) 424 30 53.
Map 1 C5 (9 B3). ∑ aqua-world.hu Map 5 C3. ∑ tropicarium.hu


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Survival


Guide





Practical Information 222–231

Getting to Budapest 232–235
Getting Around Budapest 236–241
Street Finder 242–256

















































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222  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Budapest was always famous for its hospitality, words and phrases is a good idea (see pp271–2).
and the Hungarians have been increasingly However, English and German are spoken in
emphasizing tourism as an important part all tourist offices and bigger hotels, and tourist
of the national economy. The biggest problem brochures and pamphlets are now published
in its development has been the formidable in several languages. Budapest is generally
barrier posed by the Hungarian language, safe, but it still has its share of pickpockets.
which hinders access to information. It is therefore wise to take care in the busy
Familiarizing yourself with a few Hungarian shopping centres and on public transport.

When to Go necessary, apply for a visa at their reservations. Official tourist
The best time to visit Budapest is local Hungarian embassy before information centres in Budapest,
between March and the end of travelling. Note that visas for other Budapestinfo, can be found at
June, and from the middle of Schengen countries are also valid a number of locations in the city.
August until October. July and for Hungary. For more information, General tourist info in a variety of
early August are generally hot, see the Hungarian Ministry of languages is provided by these
while the winter months can be Foreign Affairs website. centres. They also sell the Budapest
very cold. Card (see below) as well as sou-
Various festivals and cultural venirs, guide books and maps.
programmes take place Travel Safety Advice Brown tourist signs can be
throughout the year, the biggest Visitors can get up-to-date travel found at all important sights to help
events being the Spring and safety information from the visitors find their way around.
Autumn Festivals and the Sziget Foreign and Commonwealth
Festival (August). The end of the Office in the UK, the State
year is an enjoyable time, when Department in the US and the
visitors can experience the Department of Foreign Affairs
Christmas Fair and the New Year’s and Trade in Australia.
Eve street party (see pp62–5).
Tourist Information
Visas and Passports Prior to your arrival in Budapest
Citizens of the UK, Ireland, the US, it is worth getting in touch with Budapest Card
Canada, Australia and New your nearest Hungarian National
Zealand need only a valid passport Tourist Office, which can supply Budapest Card
to visit Hungary for up to 90 days. useful information and put you in The Budapest Card is
Visitors from any country in the touch with reputable tour operators. designed for tourists visiting
European Economic Area (EEA) Many agencies specialize in the city for two or three days.
and Switzerland can enter with organizing individual trips and It entitles a visitor to use most
just an ID card for a stay of up to tours to Hungary, including city transport – metro, bus,
90 days. Some EEA countries do Great Escapes, Kirker Holidays tram, trolley bus, Danube
not issue ID cards; citizens of these and Page & Moy. They can all public transport boats and
countries require a passport. provide you with detailed info hév – free of charge, as well as
All other visitors should check on itineraries and accommo- providing discounted or free
their visa requirements – and, if dation and help you to make entry to some museums. In
addition, you can also enjoy
two walking tours and visit
the zoo. It also entitles you
to a significant discount on
tickets to selected spas and
restaurants as well as many
cultural events.
The card costs 7,900 forints
for 48 hours and 9,900 forints
for 72 hours. Cards can be
purchased at tourist offices,
hotels, museums and most
large metro stations. Enclosed
with the card is information,
in four languages, which lists
One of several tourist information offices in Budapest where to use the card.
Széchenyi Chain Bridge illuminated at night, with the Parliament building behind



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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  223

Tipping
It is standard practice to tip
when paying for taxis, meals
and drinks (though not for
drinks at a bar counter); 10 per
cent of the total or thereabouts
is acceptable. In restaurants,
check to see whether between
10 and 12 per cent has been
added to the bill – in which
case you don’t have to leave
more. Rather than leaving the
tip on the table, the usual
practice is to include the tip
when you pay – just indicate
the amount you want to pay
and you will be given change
accordingly. If you expect
change back, don’t say
köszönöm (thank you) when
Ludwig Museum of Contemporary Art, Müpa Budapest (see p160) handing over payment, as it
will be assumed that you want
Opening Hours but some can be as much the change to be kept.
Museums and galleries are as 4,000 forints. Students, Note that when visiting baths
generally open year round. school children and seniors are and pools in Hungary it is
Most museums are closed on often entitled to reduc tions. customary to tip the attendant
Monday; one exception is the Opera, concert and other who unlocks your cubicle
Jewish Museum (see p138), tickets can be bought at (100–200 forints is usual).
which is closed on Saturday. ticket agencies (see pp214–17).
Opening times for specific Theatre and opera tickets are Travellers with
venues are given under their also sold at individual box
individual entries. offices, either for shows on the Disabilities
During winter (November to same day or in advance. Ticket Budapest is gradually becoming
March) most museums have prices can vary from 1,500 to more accessible for disabled
shorter opening hours. In sum­ 20,000 forints, depending on visitors. However, it is best to
mer, from April until Octo ber, the type of show. call ahead to the sights or
they tend to stay open a couple obtain specialist infor mation
of hours longer, typically from Social Customs prior to your visit to ensure
10am until 6pm. Most museums it is as hassle­free as possible.
charge an entrance fee, though and Etiquette Newer buses are now equipped
it is worth checking to see if Tradition ally, Hungarians attach for easier boarding and some
there are any discounts. great importance to being metro stations have special lifts.
Shopping centres in Budapest properly dressed when going to For advice and help, contact
are open daily until 8 or 9pm; an opera or concert hall, so the Hungarian Disabled
grocery stores are open from theatre performances, classical Association. Many museums
7am to 6pm and other shops music concerts and operas are and monuments present
from 10am until 6pm Monday smart affairs. Hungarians usually difficulties for the disabled,
to Friday. On Saturdays many wear evening dress or at least a although increas ingly they
shops, except shopping suit when going to any theatre are being renovated to be
centres, close at 1pm. Further or concert hall. Tourists will wheelchair­friendly.
information on the opening therefore feel more comfor table
hours of shops and markets wear ing evening dress too.
in Budapest can be found In Hungary, when intro duced
on pages 210–13. to someone it is customary to
shake hands and say your
name. Hungar ians also shake
Admission Prices hands when meeting people
Tickets to museums and with whom they are already
historical monuments can acquainted, though between
be purchased at the sight. friends kissing on both cheeks
Some may also be bought in is the norm, for men as well as
advance on museum websites. women. Some older men still
Average prices are around bow to kiss a woman’s hand Hungarian State Opera (see pp122–3),
2,500 forints per person, (see also Senior Travellers, p224). a venue with disabled access




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224  SUR VIV AL GUIDE


cent for EU citizens Budapest Time
between the ages of Budapest uses Central
62 and 70, and free European time, in keeping
admission for those with the rest of mainland
aged 70 and over. On Europe, which means it is 2
the public transport hours ahead of Greenwich
system, seniors are Mean Time (GMT) in the
also entitled to summer and 1 hour ahead
reductions on ticket in the winter.
prices of 50 per Examples of the summer
cent, and more time differences between
for monthly and Budapest and other major cities
quarterly passes. are as follows: London: -1 hour;
For EU residents New York: -6 hours; Dallas: -7
A Europride parade on the streets of Budapest over the age of 65, hours; Los Angeles: -9 hours;
travel on the metro, Perth: +6 hours; Sydney: +8
Gay and Lesbian buses and trolley buses is free. hours; Auckland: +10 hours;
Travellers
Tokyo: +7 hours.
While Hungarian society is
largely conservative, Budapest Travelling on a Budget Electrical Appliances
is a cosmopolitan city and its The days when you could live
gay scene is thriving, with like a prince on a pauper’s Hungarian electricity supply
overtly gay clubs now replac ing budget in Hungary are long is 230 V and the plugs needed
the old covert meeting places. gone – today the top hotels and are the standard Continental
This greater prominence is restaurants charge inter national 2 pin type. Adapters can
also reflected in Hungarian law – rates. However, there are still be purchased in most
the age of consent is 14 for plenty of places in the city countries. Since sockets are
homo sexuals and heterosexuals where you can sleep and eat generally earthed, the most
alike. The Budapest gay scene well for a modest cost. commonly used plugs are
is male-dominated, however. For cheap accommodation try the flat type.
The Gay Guide Network has the Top Hostels chain of student
information on hostels, which Public Toilets
gay-friendly has an office by
accommodation, the platforms in There are few public toilets
bars, clubs, Keleti station. in Budapest, and most require
restaurants For cheap places a small fee for their use. It is
and baths. to eat, look for worth carrying some small
Magnum Sauna an önkiszolgáló change for this eventuality.
(for men only) at International Student étterem (a self- Cubicles can be found in
Csepreghy utca 2 is Identity Card service restaurant), some squares and parks and
the largest and one étkezde (lunch time these are usually free. In cafés
of the most popular gay saunas diner), or a főzelék bár (főzelék and restaurants there are toilet
in Budapest. It also has a gym is dish of creamed vegetables). attendants and the price for
and a lounge. More restaurants are now offer- using the facility is usually
It is worth noting that in ing a lunchtime menu – an clearly displayed.
the past, extreme right-wing inex pensive two-course lunch. There are no public toilets
groups, such as Magyar Gárda, There are also many Turkish in metro stations, except for
have attacked Gay Pride kebab restaurants in the city Batthyány tér. Apart from
marches (Europride) – so centre, as well as a number the generally understood
caution is always advised at of cheap Chinese restaurants. picture symbols, the toilets
this annual summer event. Student cards (ISICs) are are signed in Hungarian:
widely accepted in Budapest. Hölgyek (ladies) and Urak
They are useful for obtaining (gentlemen), or Nők (women)
Senior Travellers
discounts at many museums and Férfiak (men).
The older generation in and monuments throughout
Hungary is accorded great the city. If you don’t already
respect. You shouldn’t be have an ISIC card, go to the Vista
surprised if people allow older Travel Office at Andrássy út 1 –
ladies to cut ahead in shop and they should be able to issue you Sign for a ladies’ toilet
post office queues, for instance. with one. If you are travelling as
Senior travellers to Hungary are a family, renting an apartment
also afforded some special can help keep costs down – try
courtesies. Many museums the Internet-based Budapest
offer discounts of up to 50 per Lets (see also pp182–5). Sign for a men’s toilet




224-225_EW_Budapest.indd 224 15/09/16 10:33 am

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  225

Responsible Tourism There are recycling centres To ease the city’s air pollution,
Environmental awareness in every district of the city for Budapest has become more
has been slowly gathering paper, glass and card board, and pedestrian-friendly, with
strength in Hungary. As far many bottles can be return ed greater areas of downtown
back as the 1980s there to shops on a deposit basis. Pest, in particular, blocked
were protests against the There are several organic to traffic. Parks are being
hydroelectric scheme on food outlets in the city. The established in place of former
the Slovakian border which largest organic market is the industrial buildings, and cycling
diverted the Danube. Today, Bio-piac, which takes place on is also increasing in popularity
however, environmental issues Saturday morn ings from 6:30am as the network of cycle lanes
are a low priority for most to noon on Csörsz utca, not far continues to expand.
households struggling to from Déli station. Another A useful organization which
meet daily costs. Never theless, option is the Bioritmus Csarnok, has a website packed with
some attention is paid to located inside Cédrus Piac green facilities in Budapest is
green matters. market Hall on Fehér út. Green Map.
DIRECTORY
Tourist Offices Open 10am–10pm. United States Gay and Lesbian
Abroad 3910 Shoemakers Street Travellers
City Centre Liszt NW, Washington D.C.
Hungarian National Ferenc tér 20008. Gay Guide Network
Tourist Office (UK) 1061 Budapest, Liszt Tel 202 362 6730. ∑ gayguide.net
46 Eaton Place, Ferenc tér 11. ∑ huembwas.org
London SW1X 8AL, Open 10am–8pm. Travelling on
United Kingdom. City Centre Sütő u. Foreign Embassies a Budget
Tel 0207 823 1055. 1052 Budapest, and Consulates
∑ gotohungary.co.uk Budapest Lets
Sütő u. 2. in Budapest
Hungarian National Open 8am–10pm. ∑ budapestlets.com
Tourist Office (US) Canada Top Hostels
447 Broadway, Travel Agents Ganz utca. 12–14. ∑ mellowmood.hu
Fifth Floor, Manhattan, Abroad Map 1 B2.
New York, NY 10013. Tel (06 1) 392 33 60. Responsible
Tel 212 695 12 21. Great Escapes ∑ canadainter Tourism
∑ gotohungary.com Cutter House 1560 Parkway, national.gc.ca
Solent Business Park, Green Map
Travel Safety Fareham, Hampshire, South Africa ∑ zoldterkep.hu
Advice PO15 7AG, United Gárdonyi Géza út 17.
Kingdom. Tel (06 1) 392 09 99. Useful Websites
Australia Tel 0845 330 2084.
Department of Foreign ∑ greatescapes.co.uk Tel 200 72 77. Budapest Tourism
Affairs and Trade. United Kingdom Office/Tourinform
∑ dfat.gov.au Kirker Holidays Füge utca 5–7. ∑ budapestinfo.hu
∑ smartraveller.gov.au 4 Waterloo Court, 10 Map 1 A1.
Theed St, London SE1 8ST, Hungarian Ministry
United Kingdom United Kingdom. Tel (06 1) 266 28 88. of Foreign Affairs
Foreign and Tel 020 7593 1899. ∑ gov.uk/government/ ∑ mfa.gov.hu
Commonwealth Office. ∑ kirkerholidays.com world/organisations/
∑ gov.uk/foreign- british-embassy-
travel-advice Page & Moy budapest
Compass House,
United States Rockingham Road, Market United States
Department of State. Harborough, Leicestershire Szabadság tér 12.
∑ travel.state.gov
LE16 7QD, United Kingdom. Map 2 E4.
Tourist Offices Tel 0116 217 8005. Tel (06 1) 475 44 00.
in Budapest ∑ pageandmoy.com ∑ hungary.usembassy.
gov
Budapestinfo Points Hungarian
Embassies Travellers with
Airport Terminal 2A Disabilities
Liszt Ferenc Budapest United Kingdom
Airport Terminal 2A. 35 Eaton Place, London Hungarian Disabled
Open 8am–11pm.
SW1X 8BY. Association
Airport Terminal 2B Tel 020 7201 3440. San Marco utca 76.
Liszt Ferenc Budapest ∑ hungary. Tel (06 1) 250 90 13.
Airport Terminal 2B. embassyhomepage.com ∑ meosz.hu


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226  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Personal Security and Health in crowded metro stations, buses
and shopping centres. They
Budapest is safe for visitors as long as common-sense also operate at all the main
precautions are taken to guard your personal safety tourist sights, and on nearby
and possessions. Emergency services are reliable, and public transport. When working
hospitals and medical clinics are clean and efficient. as a group, they may surround
unsus pecting tourists and
Nevertheless, as in any large city, social problems can jostle or distract them. For this
have an impact. Petty crime rates are on the rise, with an reason, it is a good idea to
increase of pickpocketing in particular. Sadly, any visitors have a photocopy of your
to Budapest will also be aware of the growing numbers passport and your travel
of homeless people living on the city’s streets. insurance documents.
It is also worth noting that the
rise of extreme nationalist and
right-wing groups has created
Police Every district has its own police pockets of violence, which it
Budapest is a pleasant city, station, some of which offer is wise to avoid. In the past,
with most neighbourhoods 24-hour tourist assistance. In the violent clashes have taken place
still safe to walk around at event of loss or theft, a report on major national holidays such
night. However, as with any should be made immediately as 15 March (Spring Uprising)
large city, it has its share of to the police. For lost passports, and 23 October (Remembrance
crime so sensible precautions see Lost and Stolen Property. Day), and at Gay Pride marches,
should be taken. so it is wise to keep an eye out
The Hungarian police In an Emergency for trouble.
(rendőrség) are frequently Women should not walk
seen patrolling the streets on The number to call in an unaccompanied late at night
motorbikes, on foot or in cars. emergency is the Central in poorly lit areas and should
Emer gency Number – avoid deserted streets. Rákóczi
112. If you are involved tér and Mátyás tér, in district
in a police case as a VIII, have been infamous for
witness or injured party, their brothels since the 19th
you should ask for century and have a long-
consular assistance. standing tradition as hangouts
For other emergency for prostitutes, although
numbers see the legislation has now made
Directory (opposite). prostitution much less visible
on the streets.
When eating in restaurants
What to Be
Police car make sure that your menu
Aware Of includes prices, as some
Documents and money restaurants may try to take
should be carried in a advantage of tourists. Single
secure inside pocket or men should also beware of
in a money belt. Money predatory females inviting
should be exchanged at them to a bar for a drink
a bank, your hotel or an or meal, which then results
exchange bureau, never in a disproportionately huge
on the black market. bill (see p215). Such scams are
Visitors must carry some most often found in the less
form of ID or a passport appealing places in the centre
on them by law. Driving of Pest.
Ambulance licences work just as
well within city limits.
Do not leave Lost and Stolen Property
valuables in your car. The loss or theft of a passport
If taking a taxi, use should be reported to the
regis tered vehicles, local police station and then
which offer more the appropriate embassy
security and are less immediately (see p225).
likely to overcharge Any items left on public
than unmarked ones transport may be traced at the
(see p239). Pickpockets Lost Property Office, at No. 18
operate during rush Akácfa utca, or by calling BKK
Road policeman on a motorbike hours, targeting people Lost Property.




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PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  227

Hospitals and well-deserved reputation for policy held and the relevant
Pharmacies
good dentistry at very reasonable agreement between Hungary
First aid and ambulance services prices. One popular, centrally and the visitor’s home country.
in Hungary are free for citizens located dental care specialist Most insurance companies
of the UK and most other is Dental Care Budapest. expect policy holders to pay
European countries. Before Budapest’s pharmacies for their treatment as
travelling to Hungary you (gyógyszertár or patika) they receive it and then
should obtain a European are well stocked and, apply for a refund
Health Insurance Card (EHIC), in the case of a minor on their return home.
which allows you to access ailment, the chemist All the relevant bills
state-provided healthcare will be able to and police reports
at a significantly reduced cost. recommend a suitable must be submitted
In the case of an accident or treatment. Some drugs with any insurance
emergency, the largest state require a prescription, Pharmacy sign claim. Remember that
hospital in central Budapest is while others can be sold a report must be made
the Szent János Kórház in the over the counter in pharmacies to the police within seven days
XII district (or call an ambulance). such as Déli Gyógyszertár. of any incident.
There are also a number of If your nearest pharmacy is No special vaccinations are
international clinics, such as the closed, there should be a list required for Hungary and the
First Med Centre and Főnix-Med displayed, on the door or in general standard of hygiene in
Medical Service, with English- the window, of all the local the country is reasonably good.
speaking staff and a high chemists – it will indicate That said, allergy sufferers
standard of care, although these which ones are on 24-hour and people with breathing
are expensive. Hungary has a emergency duty, one of which difficulties should take account
is Teréz Patika. of the air pollution during the
summer months, which is
particularly acute in the
Travel Insurance and crowded streets of Pest. Those
Medical Matters susceptible should consider
When travelling to Hungary it is staying in the Castle District,
highly recommended that visitors from which cars are banned, or
take out travel insurance before retreating to the wooded Buda
leaving home. Foreign nationals Hills or the greenery of
are only entitled to free medical Margaret Island (see p189).
help in emergencies, such as The water in Budapest is of
accidents or a sudden illness good quality. It is generally
requiring immediate medical considered safe to drink water
intervention. Any other medical straight from the tap. The city’s
care, including hospitalization, numerous thermal baths
The shop front of a pharmacy must be paid for. The cost (see pp52–5) have richly
in Budapest depends on the type of insurance mineralized water.
DIRECTORY
In an Emergency Lost Property Teréz Patika First Med Center
Teréz krt. 41. Map 10 F1. Hattyúház 14, 5th floor
Ambulance BKK Lost Property Tel (06 1) 311 44 39. Hattyú utca.
Tel 104. Akácfa utca 18. Open 24 hours daily. Map 1 A5.
Fire Tel (06 1) 258 46 36 Tel (06 1) 224 9090.
Tel 105. (Mon–Fri). International ∑ firstmedcenters.com
Clinics
Central Emergency Hospitals and Főnix-Med Medical
Number Pharmacies Avicenna Medical Service
Váci út 198.
Tel 112. and Dental Tel (06 1) 2000 100.
Szent János Kórház Podmaniczky utca 33,
Police 3rd floor, 8. Map 2 F3. ∑ fonixmed.com
Tel 107. Diósárok utca 1-3. Tel (06 1) 302 5005.
Tel (06 1) 458 4500.
Police Stations with ∑ avicenna-med.hu
24-hour Assistance Déli Gyógyszertár Dental Care Budapest
I district: Pauler utca 13. Alkotás utca1/b. Tel (06 1) SOS Dent Nonstop Clinic,
V district: Szalay utca 355 46 91. Open 8am–8pm Király utca 14. Map 2 F5.
11–13. Mon–Fri, 8am–2pm Sat Tel (06 1) 269 60 10
XI district: Bocskai út 90. (Emergency services 24 (24 hours).
XIII district: Szabolcs utca 36. hours daily). ∑ sosdent.hu



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228  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Local Currency and Banking

The Hungarian banking system is on a par with European
standards. Budapest boasts many modern banks, both
Hungarian and foreign, which are located in smart buildings.
The service is efficient and courteous. There are numerous
automatic cash dispensers and bureaux de change in the
town centre and around the railway stations. An increasing
number of shops and restaurants now accept credit cards, but
it is still more common in Budapest to pay for goods and
services in cash. The official currency of Hungary is the forint
(HUF or Ft). Most banks also advance money on a credit card.
An ATM (cash machine) outside a
Budapest bank
Banks and Bureaux banks are closed on Saturdays Wiring Money
de Change
and Sundays, but the bureaux Wiring is an effective way to
For the best rate of exchange, de change and ATMs remain receive and transfer money
take foreign currency to a open. Exchanging money is abroad. Western Union has
bureau de change such as only permitted in licensed, branches all over Budapest.
Northline or Exclusive designated places. Transactions Look for their logo at foreign
Change; these generally give on the street are illegal, and exchange bureaux, or the
better rates than Hungarian often involve counterfeit money. Intercash symbol (www.
banks. Before changing money, intercash.hu), the Western
check the rates of exchange, ATMS Union agent in Hungary.
as they tend to vary quite Some Western Union offices
widely. The rates quoted by The easiest way of getting also exchange foreign currency,
some exchange offices can be money is from cash machines though they generally offer
misleading as they could apply (ATMs), which have instruct ions poor rates. Since Hungary
only to sums in excess of in various languages (including joined the EU, many shops
200,000 forints, which may be English). These can be found and restaurants accept euros.
stated only in very small print. all over the city. Don’t be Always check the exchange
The least favourable rates put off if a bank machine rate and the money returned.
are in hotels and at the airport, rejects your card; try at another
while the best are offered by bank and it is likely to work. DIRECTORY
the smaller bureaux de change There are also exchange
a little way off the usual tourist machines, which change Banks
tracks. A reasonable, average foreign notes. Budapest Bank
rate can usually be found at Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 5.
Hungarian banks. Map 2 E4 (10 E1).
Branches of the Budapest Credit Cards and Tel (06 1) 477 77 77.
Traveller’s Cheques
Bank are open Monday to
Friday, from 9am until 5pm. Most hotels, shops and K & H Bank
Apáczai Csere János utca 4.
K & H Bank are open Monday restaurants accept credit cards, Map 4 E1.
to Thursday, between 8am but older establishments Tel (06 1) 327 80 80.
and 4pm, and on Friday and some of the more
between 8am and 3pm. Most inexpensive restaurants do Magyar Külkereskedelmi
not. It is therefore wise to carry Bank Rt
some cash with you. Váci utca 38.
The most widely accepted Map 4 E1.
cards are Visa and MasterCard. Tel (06 1) 327 86 00.
American Express and Diners Bureaux de Change
Club have very limited
acceptance. The logos of Exclusive Change
accepted credit cards are Váci utca 12.
usually on display – it is always Map 4 E1.
worth checking before you Tel (06 70) 383 06 54.
order, however. Traveller’s Northline
cheques can be changed at Central Market Hall,
most banks, as well as at some Vámház Körút 1.
hotels. In Hungary, shops Map 4 F3.
Entrance to a branch of the Budapest Bank, never accept traveller’s cheques ∑ northline.hu
on Váci utca as payment.




228-229_EW_Budapest.indd 228 15/09/16 10:30 am

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  229


Hungarian currency
The Hungarian currency unit is the forint
(HUF or Ft). Banknotes are issued in
denominations of 500, 1,000, 2,000, 5,000,
10,000 and 20,000 forints. Both an old and
a new style of some notes are currently
legal tender, but an older version of the
5,000 forint note than the one shown here A
is no longer accepted. T
N
I
M
A
T
N
I 500 HUF
M
A
T
1,000 HUF N
I
M
A
T
N
I
M 2,000 HUF


A
5,000 HUF T
N
I
M
A
T
N
I
M 10,000 HUF

20,000 HUF
Coins
The forint has coin denominations of
5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 forints currently
in circulation. As with Hungarian
banknotes, new coins are gradually
being phased in – the 200 forint coin
with a nickel disc inside a brass ring is
now the only legal version.
10 HUF 5 HUF










20 HUF 50 HUF 100 HUF 200 HUF




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230  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Media and Communications

The prevalence of mobile phones has transformed
communications in Hungary, giving reliable access to the
phone network for many who had struggled with the
relatively inefficient landline telephone operating system.
There remain many telephone boxes throughout the city,
although card-operated telephones are much more
widespread than coin-operated ones. Wi-Fi access is
also available at many places around the city.

Interna tional and Local digits (when combined with
Phone Calls
the city dialling code 06-1
Calling cards (such as Telecard, there are 10 digits). Hungarian
Neophone or Barangoló) are mobile phone numbers consist
the best option for making of 11 digits: they start with
landline calls, and are widely 06-20, 06-30, 06-31 or 06-70,
available from post offices, follow ed by seven digits.
street vendors, fuel stations If you are calling any of these Visitor using a mobile phone
and some newspaper kiosks in numbers from abroad the
a variety of denomi nations. initial 06 is replaced by the your phone. You’ll find pro viders
These cards usually offer better country code, 36. To call the such as Telekom, Telenor,
international rates than when operator dial 11818, or 11824 Voda fone and others in all big
using coins. Alternatively, coin for the international operator, shopping malls.
phone boxes accept 10, 20, 50 but be aware that calls to these
and 100 forint coins and also numbers are usually billed at
€1 and €2 coins; some also high rates. There is little advan- Internet
accept credit or debit cards. tage in using the services of a Cafés and bars offering a wireless
The minimum rate for a hotel operator, and this only connection are now common in
local call is 20 forints, and makes the call more expensive. Budapest. It is easy to find Wi-Fi
100 forints for an international hotspots, plus, more and more
call. To make an international cafés and restaurants are
call dial 00, wait for the Mobile Phones providing free Wi-Fi. These might
diall ing signal and then dial If you plan to bring your mobile be password-protected, but
the country code, followed phone when travel ling, check it never hurts to ask the staff.
by the rest of the number. with your provider about Budapest also has several Internet
You can also phone abroad whether you have a roaming cafés offering coffee and snacks
using a pre-paid international facility, and bring an adaptor while you check your emails, search
phone card such as the and transformer with you to the Internet or play online games.
Barangoló, available at post re charge your phone. US cell It is worth noting that connec-
offices, which offers good rates phones need to be tri-band tion speeds can vary.
to countries around the world. to work in Hungary. In some cafés the keyboards
Budapest telephone Alternatively, you can buy a are laid out according to the
numbers consist of seven Hungarian SIM card to use in Hungarian template, with
extra letters.
Addresses
Budapest is divided into 23
districts, identified by Roman
numerals. A Budapest address is
usually written with the district
number placed first; in addition,
the street number comes after
the street name – for example, V
Kossuth Lajos utca 4. However,
in corres pondence a four-digit
postal code is used in place of
the district number, the middle
two digits indicating the district
Internet café in Vaci utca, a pedestrianized street in Pest (so that 1054 refers to an




230-231_EW_Budapest.indd 230 15/09/16 10:34 am

PR A C TIC AL INFORM A TION  231


address in the fifth district). stamps, all post offices sell
After the street number, an various special issues. Care
additional combination of should be taken when sending
numerals denotes the floor, valuable items, as packages
and the number of individual often go missing.
apartments (eg Kossuth utca On weekdays, most post offices
14.III.24). Confusingly, some old are open from 8am until 5pm.
buildings in Pest are designated They are closed on Saturday
as having a half-floor (félemelet) and Sunday. The branch at
or upper ground floor (magas Keleti station is open till 9pm
földszint) between the ground on weekdays and until 2pm
(földszint) and first floor (első on Saturdays.
emelet) proper. So what the International couriers such as
British would call the second DHL operate in Budapest, but if
floor, and Americans the third, you need to courier something
Hungarians might describe as within the city, local couriers
the first floor. such as Hajtás Pajtás Bicycle A kiosk selling newspapers on a
Messengers are faster and cheaper. Budapest street
Postal Services magazines, including The Budapest
Newspapers, Magazines
Postage stamps cost between Times, Budapest Funzine and
70 and 190 Hungarian forints and Listings Where Budapest (the last two are
for sending a postcard. Always In Budapest all the world’s top free). These provide the most
ask the clerk at the post office newspapers and maga zines are comprehen sive information
as rates depend on the weight easily accessible at hotels. A on local events and full
and even the format of the number of the larger newsstands entertainment guides.
envelope. Apart from ordinary maintain a constant stock of Two useful websites for news
international newspapers and and events in the city are
magazines. The largest number www.xpatloop.com and
of these can be found at the www.budapestbeacon.hu.
under passes near Nyugati and
Keleti stations. There are also TV and Radio
various shops around town
which specialize in English- The city’s larger hotels are
language newspapers, books geared up for the needs of
and maps (see pp212–13). the international traveller and,
Bear in mind that the foreign in addition to the state and
daily news papers on sale tend independent Hungarian
to be yesterday’s editions, but television channels, most offer
even so they often sell out by tens of satellite TV and radio
Red post box for national and lunchtime. For English-speaking channels in English and other
international mail visitors there are also a few European languages.
DIRECTORY
Mobile Phones Internet Postal Services Couriers

Telekom Király Internet Bajcsy-Zsilinszky DHL
Kávézó út 16
Petőfi Sándor utca 12. Király utca 54. Map 10 E1. Szabadság tér 7.
Map 4 E1. Map 7 A1. Open 8am–8pm Mon–Fri. Map 2 E4.
Tel (06 1) 708 17 04. Tel (06 1) 382 34 99.
Tel (06 1) 266 57 23. Fővám tér 5
Törpe Kávézó Map 4 F3 Hajtás Pajtás Bicycle
Telenor XIII Béke út 69. Open 10am–6pm Messengers
Károly korút 3/A. Map 2 E1. Mon–Fri. Vörösmarty utca 20.
Map 10 E3. Tel (06 1) 239 45 73. Map 5 A5.
Open 11am–1am Mon– Pauler utca 3 Tel (06 1) 327 90 00.
Tel (06 20) 960 07 54. Fri, noon–1am Sat & Sun. Map 1 B5.
Open 8am–6pm Mon–Fri.
Vodafone Vist@Net Café
Váci út 1. XIII Váci út 6. Teréz körút 51
Map 2 F2. Map 10 F1.
Map 2 F1. Tel (06 1) 320 43 32. Open 7am–8pm Mon–Fri,
Tel (06 70) 288 3288. Open 24 hours. 8am–6pm Sat.




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232  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

GETTING TO BUDAPEST

Hungarians like to boast that Budapest improvements, making up for decades
is the heart of central Europe – a claim of neglect. Budapest can now be reached
with some justification, as the city acts as by motorway, with the fastest route, via
a major crossroads linking north to south France, Brussels, Germany and Austria,
and west to east. It has excellent rail links taking 17 hours if driving non-stop but
with the whole of Europe and its two for convenience, it is better to make
largest railway stations, Keleti and Nyugati use of the air links Budapest has with
(see pp234–5), are conveniently situated in major cities throughout Europe. A flight
the centre of town. Another main railway from London to Budapest, for example,
station is Déli pályaudvar, which serves the takes just 2 ½ hours. Transfers from the
western part of the city. The country’s airport by taxi or on public transport are
motorway network has undergone quick and efficient.
Arriving by Air other British cities. Seasonally bankrupt, the low-cost airlines
Airlines from around 90 towns there are direct flights from moved to the better equipped
and cities, in 40 different New York, and several airlines terminal 2A which had been
countries, now fly to Budapest. fly from the US and Canada via used solely by Malév. Terminals
The city’s airport receives other European cities. Direct 2A and 2B currently serve all
flights from major international flights from New York take departures and arrivals –
airlines that include Air France, around 8 ½ hours. A direct flights to and from Schengen
British Airways and the service operates between and non-Schengen zone
larger low cost airlines such Beijing and Budapest. countries alike.
as Jet2.com and Wizz Air. All terminals offer good
Between them, British Airways amenities and services. Catering
and the low-cost airlines Budapest Airport facil ities include bars, cafés and
operate over a dozen flights Budapest’s inter national airport restau rants. There are numerous
daily between Budapest and has three terminals, 1, 2A and boutiques and shops, as well
London’s international airports. 2B are 16–20 km (10–12 miles) as tourist offices, currency
In the UK, it is also possible from the city centre. Terminal exchange facilities and desks
to fly to Budapest from 1, the oldest terminal, is of major car rental firms.
Edinburgh and Manchester, currently closed although it may In 2011, Terminal 2 bene-
and there are indirect connec- reopen in the future. When fitted from the opening of
tions from a large number of Malév Hungarian Airlines went Bud:SkyCourt, a centrally
located building, which
links Terminals 2A and 2B.
Bud:SkyCourt has significantly
increased the commercial area
of the terminals and provides a
wide range of retail outlets,
international brands and
dining options for travellers.
Passengers can move through
the terminal building much
faster and the installation of six
security lanes on each side of
the building has made security
screening speedier and
more comfortable.

Package Deals and
Bargains
Low-cost airlines, such as
Easyjet, make getting to
Budapest much more affordable
than in the past. Good deals are
available year round, and the
further in advance you book, the
Passengers inside the Bud:SkyCourt terminal better the chance of a bargain.




232-233_EW_Budapest.indd 232 15/09/16 10:30 am

GE T TING T O BUD APEST  233


Promotional offers from
British Airways frequently
stipulate that journeys include
a Saturday night, and will often
include stays at top hotels in
the city centre. These kinds of
deals are more plentiful during
the low season, between
September and March.
There are also specialist tour
operators, such as Leisure To
Taste, which offer reasonably
priced, all-inclusive itineraries
and special-interest holidays.
If you are booking accom-
modation separately from
your flights, look at travel
websites such as Hotel Room
Finder (hotelroomfinder.co.uk), Airport taxi (FőTaxi) at the Budapest Airport
which searches more than
15 databases for the best The drive into the centre is DIRECTORY
hotel, deals. It also has special usually fairly brisk and a plea-
deals in Budapest and all sant introduction to the city. Airport and Airlines
over Hungary. A cheaper option is the Air France
Airport Minibus Shuttle. For Tel (06 1) 483 88 00.
around 3,200 forints (5,500 ∑ airfrance.com
forints return) the shuttle takes
passengers from both terminals British Airways
Centre for Budapest Transport (BKK) to any address in the city centre Tel (06 1) 777 47 47.
(prices are lower if booked on ∑ britishairways.com
the Internet). Minibuses have Budapest Airport
wheelchair access and can pick Tel (06 1) 296 96 96 (general
up returning passengers – they information).
Airport taxi company logo advise calling 24 hours before Tel (06 1) 296 70 00 (flight
departure to book. information).
Getting to the Centre
Terminal 1 is currently closed, Easyjet
Bus No. 200E runs from Budapest but may reopen in 2017. The ∑ easyjet.com
Airport Terminals 2A and 2B to cheapest and quickest way
Kőbánya-Kispest metro station. to get into the city centre Jet2.com
Tickets cost 350 forints if bought from Terminal 1 is to catch the Tel 44 203 059 8336.
at BKK Customer Service Points main line train to Nyugati railway ∑ jet2.com
in the term inals or 450 forints on station. You will need to walk Wizz Air
the bus. From Kőbánya-Kispest 300 m with your luggage from Tel 06 90 181 181.
station, take the blue M3 metro Terminal 1 to Ferihegy station, ∑ wizzair.com
line into the centre (350 forints). but the fare is reasonable at
The airport taxi, FőTaxi, 300 forints. The trains run as Tour Operator
charges 6,000–8,000 forints, often as three times an hour,
depending on which zone in but only once an hour between Leisure To Taste
Ribáry utca 1, 1022 Budapest.
Budapest you are travelling to. midnight and 6am.
Tel 0800 686 0619 (UK); +36 1
336 1917 (Hungary).
∑ leisuretotaste.com
Airport Minibus
Airport Minibus Shuttle
Tel (06 1) 296 85 55.
∑ airportshuttle.hu
(Phone booking 6am–10pm
daily.)
Airport Taxi
FőTaxi
Tel (06 1) 222 22 22.
Aircraft at Budapest Airport




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234  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Travelling by Car
Eight main roads lead out of
Budapest, four of them motor­
ways, which are marked “M”.
The M1 stretches from Budapest
to the Hegyeshalom border
crossing, where it joins the
Austrian motorway net work.
The M3 links Budapest with
Miskolc and Nyíregyháza to the
north east, the M5 leads south to
Ticket offices at Nyugati Railway Station in Budapest Kecskemét (see p170) and Szeged,
M6 takes you to Pécs, and the
Travelling by Rail Railway Stations
M7 links to the Balaton resorts.
Budapest has direct rail links There are three main railway The M0 is being built as a ring
with 25 other capital cities. Every stations in Budapest – Keleti motorway around Budapest,
day, more than 50 international (East), Nyugati (West) and Déli with only the west section still
trains, many of them express (South) (see opposite). to be completed. Drivers must
services, arrive and depart from The Hungarian for station is purchase an electronic motorway
the city’s three railway stations. pályaudvar, often shortened in sticker for all motor ways and
The modern Hungarian trains writing to pu. Most inter national some other toll roads; these can
used on the mainline services trains run from Keleti station. be bought at petrol stations near
are generally considered to be Some trains to Vienna and one or on the motorway or online.
an efficient means of transport, of the express trains to Croatia Traffic regulations include
although some international (“Maestral”) leave from Déli station, driving with the headlights on,
services suffer occasional delays. as do trains to the Lake Balaton day and night. All car occupants,
Trains from Budapest to resorts, which go almost hourly in the front and back seats, are
Vienna, the main communi­ in high season. Déli pu is on the requir ed by law to wear seat
cation hub for western Europe, red M2 metro. Keleti pu can be belts. Motor cycle drivers and
depart approximately every reached using the red M2, as well passen gers must wear helmets
hour or two from Keleti station. as the green M4 metro lines. For at all times.
The fastest trains run at top Nyugati pu take the blue M3 The speed limits are 50 km/h
speeds of 140–160 km/h (85– metro line, or trams 4 or 6. (30 mph) in built­up areas, 90
100 mph). The travelling time is km/h (60 mph) outside built­up
an efficient 2 hours 50 minutes. areas, 110 km/h (68 mph) on
Detailed information on all Travelling by Boat main roads and 130 km/h
domestic and international Between April and October (80 mph) on motorways.
rail services running to and hydrofoils cruise the Danube In Hungary it is strictly
from Budapest can be obtained from Vienna to Budapest, via forbidden to drive following
from either Keleti station or Bratislava. It is also possible to any alcohol consumption. The
on the MÁV-START (Hungarian take a hydrofoil or pleasure boat slightest trace of alcohol in
Railways) website. along to the Danube bend, to the bloodstream is enough for
It is worth knowing that there towns such as Esztergom and a person to have their driving
are several concession ary fares Visegrád (see pp168–9). See the licence confiscated on the spot,
available. Foreign visitors to timetable at the departure point along with a criminal case and/
Hungary can buy a season at Vigadó tér for details, or or a heavy fine.
ticket that is valid for between contact cruise companies such Visitors coming to Budapest
seven and ten days and offers as AMA Waterways, Legenda by car are obliged to have the
unlimited travel throughout or Mahart Passnave. green insurance card, while
the country. There are also a
number of Europe­wide passes
that allow you to travel cheaply
on trains in Hungary.
Local trains (személyvonat) are
slow and make frequent stops.
The best option if time is tight
is to take modern Intercity
trains, which go to Pécs, Miskolc,
Debrecen, Szeged and all the
larger cities in Hungary in
around 1–3 hours. Seat
reservations are required on
these trains. Reserve in advance
and expect to pay a small fee. The imposing exterior of the Nyugati Railway Station




234-235_EW_Budapest.indd 234 15/09/16 10:30 am

GE T TING T O BUD APEST  235


DIRECTORY
Travelling by Rail
MÁV-START
Tel (06 1) 444 44 99.
∑ mav-start.hu
Travelling by Boat
AMA Waterways
Tel +44 (0) 808 223 5009 (UK).
∑ amawaterways.co.uk
800 626 0126 (US toll free).
A luxury air-conditioned tourist coach
∑ amawaterways.com
those hiring a car need only There are three national coach Legenda
present their driving licences. stations: Népliget (with buses Tel (06 1) 317 22 03. ∑ legenda.hu
Hitchhiking, while not against to western Hungary), Stadionok Mahart Passnave
the law, is not recommended. (to eastern Hungary) and Árpád Tel (06 1) 484 40 13.
Regulations permit the use of Bridge (to northern Hungary ∑ mahartpassnave.hu
mobile phones by drivers only and the Danube bend).
when the car is fitted with a Stadionok station can be Travelling by Car
hands-free system. Otherwise, reached by the M2 metro line, Road and Motorway
it is advisable to pull over and while Árpád Bridge is served by Traffic Information
stop when using your phone. the M3 line. International routes Tel (06 1) 336 24 00. ∑ utinform.hu
are served by luxury coaches,
which have all the usual facilities Toll Road Information
Travelling by Coach such as air-conditioning and Tel (06 36) 587 500 (English
Budapest’s international coach toilets. The domestic and main operator available from
station, Népliget (Üllői út 131) inter national traffic is served by 8am–4pm). ∑ toll-charge.hu
lies 5 km (3 miles) southeast of Volánbusz coaches (Eurolines), Vehicle Assistance
the centre, and is on the blue which operate on routes to Tel (06 1) 266 63 83 or 188.
M3 metro line. the major towns in Hungary.

Nyugati pu
Budapest’s western station serves
mainly international destinations,
a large number by express trains.
Its many destinations include
Transylvania and Bratislava.

Around
North of Városliget
the Castle Around
District
Parliament
Castle
District
Keleti pu
The city’s main train station
Central handles the majority of
Pest international rail traffic.

Gellért Hill
and Tabán Railway Stations
Déli pu Budapest’s three railway
The southern station covers stations handle both
the rail traffic to and from domestic and international
the Balaton resorts, as well as rail traffic. All have good
the express trains to Croatia public transport links
and Vienna. including to the metro.

For keys to symbols see back flap


234-235_EW_Budapest.indd 235 15/09/16 10:30 am

236  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

GETTING AROUND BUDAPEST

Budapest is a sprawling city with many The infrastructure of Budapest is chiefly
suburban districts. However, most of its determined by the körúts (ring roads) and
main tourist attractions are centrally the boulevards that radiate out from the
located and can be easily reached by the city centre and into the city’s suburbs.
city’s public transport system, or on foot. The metro system mainly operates in
The many choices of transport by rail, Pest with some stations in Buda, while
road and even water provide visitors efficient tram and bus networks are easy to
to Budapest with ample opportunity use and extend to all parts of the city. The
to travel through and around the city overland hév trains provide a service from
to reach their chosen destinations. the city centre to the suburbs.

Green Travel and suburban hév lines up to
Budapest has long suffered the city boun daries (see pp238–
from air pollution, and the 41). Daytime services run from
proliferation of cars has made about 4:30am to 11pm, with a
the problem worse. Moreover, good range of night buses
the difficulties of parking in the oper ating across the city every
city make it highly advisable to 15–60 minutes. Timetables for
leave your car outside the centre. buses, trams and trolley buses
A much better option is to are displayed at each stop.
use the excellent public
transport system, which covers
the whole city very well. The Budapest on Foot
preservation of trolley buses Budapest is a city in which every Pedestrians beside the Danube
and the extension of the tram pedestrian will find something
network (see pp240–41) is good of interest. Those who like to railway or bus Nos 20 or 21A
news for environmentalists. stroll through picturesque from Széll Kálmán tér to the
An increase in the number of alleyways should make a point Buda Hills (see p165).
cycle routes and the public of visiting the cobbled streets of When walking in the city it is
bike-sharing system MOL Bubi Buda’s Castle District. Another worth remembering that you
have also resulted in the grow- option might be to wander need to keep an eye on the
ing use of bicycles in Budapest. around the backstreets of traffic. Drivers in Budapest
central Pest. Here, there are expect pedestrians to get out
plenty of opportunities to peer of their way – they will often
Public Transport in into historic courtyards and swerve around you rather than
Budapest admire the wrought-iron stop if you use a zebra crossing.
Budapest has an excellent balconies and exterior
public transport system, which decorative details of Secession
makes it easy to get around the apartment blocks (see pp56–9). Driving in Budapest
city. Organised by the BKK Váci utca (see p131) is fully The large number of one-way
(Centre for Budapest Transport), pedest rianized and has seats streets in Budapest makes it a
it covers the metro, trams, buses, where weary walkers can rest very difficult city for visitors to
trolley buses, cogwheel railway, and watch the bustle. navigate by car. The many
Danube boat The promenade along the changes of direction often
Danube is also a pleasant place result in drivers unfamiliar with
to walk in Budapest. Visitors the city becoming lost. Any
who enjoy rambling along confusion brought about by
leafy trails should take the the complex system of roads is
further aggravated by the heavy
rush-hour traffic. There are also
Pedestrian zone few places to park in the city, so
it is much better to sightsee on
foot or by public transport. Most
road signs follow the European
New street name plate pattern, and people drive on
the right-hand side of the road.
Walk signal at a In towns the use of the horn is
pedestrian legally restricted to cases of
Pedestrian crossing crossing Old street name plate imminent danger.




236-237_EW_Budapest.indd 236 15/09/16 10:34 am

GE T TING AROUND BUD APEST  237

Hiring a Car As well as paying a fine, It consists of nearly 100 docking
Cars can be hired from it costs around 16,000 stations and 1,100 bicycles
the airport on arrival forints (US $70) to found at several locations in the
in Budapest, or from release a car from a city. After buying an initial ticket,
one of several car hire clamp, and around you can use the bikes free for
offices in the city, 20,000 forints (US $90) 30 minutes or for longer periods
such as Avis, Budget Stopping and parking if a car has been towed with modest charges. A deposit
Hungary, Europcar or prohibited away – usually to a car is blocked on your credit card
Hertz. Be prepared to park outside the city. and released a few days after
leave a credit card Parking meters often your ticket has expired.
deposit ranging display the telephone An enjoyable way to spend
between 100,000 number to contact in time in Budapest is to take
forints and 800,000 the event of wheel- a cycling trip around Margaret
forints, and to pay clamping. It is also Island (see pp176–7). There
US$100–240 per day worth asking a car are several bike-hire stalls
for unlimited mileage. park attendant for on the island, and they also
advice. If the car has rent out children’s bikes, thus
Parking Parking of cars allowed been towed away, call enabling family groups to
in this zone for a the Removed Cars explore. The Danube riverbank
There are several maximum of 2 hours Information line (Tel also has dedicated cycle lanes.
multi-storey car parks (06 1) 301 75 00) to find
in the city centre, including at out where it has been taken. DIRECTORY
Nos. 4–6 Aranykéz utca, No. 20
Nyár utca, and Szervita tér. Cycling Public Transport
There are underground car BKK (Centre for Budapest
parks at Szabadság tér and Sas Cycling in Budapest is often Transport)
utca. A lot of the larger hotels difficult and fairly dangerous. Rumbach S. utca 19–21.
also have an underground Cyclists have to be careful of Map 2 F5 (10 E3).
garage. There are attended and the tram rails and the uneven, Tel (06 1) 325 52 55.
unattended car parks situated cobblestoned surfaces of
in other busy parts of the city as some roads. The poor air quality Car Hire
well. In addition, hotels with car is an additional disadvantage.
parks may offer spare parking However, Budapest’s main roads Avis
spaces to non-guests, all of are usually open to cyclists, and Arany János utca 26–28.
Tel (06 1) 296 64 21. ∑ avis.com
which helps to ease the designated cycle lanes are
problem of on-street parking. available on a growing number Budget Hungary
Budapest is split into several of roads. The provision of cycle Hotel Mercure Buda, Krisztina
parking zones that all have routes in Budapest and the körút 41–43. Map 3 C1.
different hourly rates. When opening of one-way streets to Tel (06 1) 214 04 20.
parking on the street, you must contraflow cycling (indicated by ∑ budget.hu
get a ticket from the nearest signs allowing this) have made Europcar
ticket machine to display in the cycling an increasingly popular Erzsébet tér 7–8. Tel (06 1) 505
car, specifying how long you will pastime. Bike-hire shops such as 44 00. ∑ europcar.hu
stay. Parking charges vary from Bikebase, Budapest Bike and Hertz
175 to 600 Hungarian forints per BudaBike Tours are also a good Apáczai Csere János utca 4.
hour. Park ing without a valid source of information about Tel (06 1) 266 43 61. ∑ hertz.hu
ticket or overstaying the bicycle routes in the city.
allocated time can lead to either The MOL Bubi public bike- Bike Hire
a parking fine or wheel-clamping. sharing scheme is another way
Cars parked improperly of cycling around Budapest. Bikebase
may be clamped or Podmaniczky utca 19 (closed in
towed away to a car park winter). Tel (06 70) 625 85 01.
∑ bikebase.hu
outside the centre. Fines
of up to 30,000 forints BudaBike Tours
can also be imposed for Szent István tér 6. Tel (06 70) 242
park ing offences. 5736. ∑ budabike.com
Budapest Bike
Clamping and Wesselényi utca 13. Tel (06 30)
Towing 944 55 33. ∑ budapestbike.hu
MOL Bubi
Wheel-clamping is Tel (06 1) 325 52 55.
growing in Budapest; all ∑ molbubi.bkk.hu
illegally parked vehicles
are subject to clamping. Using one of Budapest’s cycle routes




236-237_EW_Budapest.indd 237 15/09/16 10:34 am

238  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Getting Around by Metro

Budapest has four metro lines (see inside back cover), most easily
distinguished by their colours: yellow, red, blue and green.
Three lines (M1, M2 and M3) intersect at Deák Ferenc tér station,
while the M4 line intersects with M2 at Keleti pályaudvar, and
M3 at Kálvin tér. The oldest line, the yellow M1 line, runs just One-day travel card valid for all forms of
beneath the surface of the city. Built in 1894, it is known as public transport
the Millennium Line after the celebrations that took place
two years later (see p146), but its more common name is the
Földalatti (Underground). Two more lines – the red M2 and
blue M3 lines – were added after 1970. The M4 line opened
in 2014 and has some architecturally remarkable stations.
The modern trains on this line are driverless.
A 72-hour travel card valid for all forms of
escalators or stairs. Smoking and public transport
eating are not permitted on the
trains, and you must use head- Tickets (jegy) can be pur chased
phones to listen to music. Dogs separately or, more econom-
can travel on the metro, but ically, in booklets of 10 for 3,000
Signs for the M2 metro only when muzzled and require forints. Individual tickets cost
an extra ticket or a dog pass. 350 forints if you buy them in
The Metro System
advance at metro stations and
A journey on the World Heritage newspaper kiosks. You can buy
Millennium Line (M1) is an event tickets on board buses and
in itself, with some beautifully some trams for 450 forints (see
tiled late-19th century stations. p241). You can also buy transfer
Three words to remember tickets (Átszállójegy) costing 530
when using the metro system forints, which are valid for two
are: bejárat, meaning entrance; immediately consecutive journeys
kijárat, meaning exit (both are on any form of public transport.
always clearly marked); and felé, Sign over the entrance to the M1 metro line On the metro you can also get
meaning towards (the direction at Oktogon tér station cheaper tickets for journeys of
of trains is indicated by the name three stops (Metró szakaszjegy),
of the station at the end of the Tickets with no transfers. By 2018 an
line). Remember to validate your automated fare collection system
ticket. Valida tion machines are The same types of ticket and will be in place at all metro and
located at the station entrances. pass cover all forms of BKK major suburban railway stations, as
To plan a journey, consult the transport. Single tickets must be well as in trams, trolleys and buses.
map at the back of this guide. validated in a machine at the
A recorded voice message start of your journey: on the Travelcards and Passes
announces when the door is metro they must be validated at
closing and gives the name of the station before boarding; on Travelcards are available for
the next station and transfer buses, trams, trolley buses and 24 hours, 72 hours or one week.
possibilities. The M4 stations are the cog-wheel railway they Passes for 14 or 30 days, or an
accessible by lift, but the other must be validated on board. entire year, are also available.
lines are only accessible by Tickets are checked frequently, There are discounts for students,
and there is a fine of seniors, the disabled and
8,000 forints to be parents with small children, but
paid in cash on the these only apply for periods of
spot for travelling at least two weeks. Make sure
with out a valid ticket. you bring photo graphic ID with
Each time you board you when buying your pass,
a bus or tram, you which can be purchased on the
must validate a new spot. The Budapest Card (see
ticket, but on the p222) entitles the holder to free
metro system you city transport, free guided tours,
can change lines as well as a range of discounts
within one hour, at some museums and
provided you do not restaurants, for periods of
A typical station on the M4 metro line leave the stations. two or three days.




238-239_EW_Budapest.indd 238 15/09/16 10:34 am

GE T TING AROUND BUD APEST  239

Travelling on the Hév

The overland hév railway is an essential means of
transport connecting Budapest with its suburban
districts. It carries residents to and from work and tourists
to attractions located 20–30 km (12–20 miles) away from
the city centre. The standard tickets used on other forms
of transport (see p238) can be used to travel to central
destinations and other places within the city limits, such
as the Roman town of Aquincum, but passengers leaving
the city boundaries by suburban railway have to purchase
an extension ticket at the ticket office, ticket vending A standard hév train carriage
machines or from the conductor on board.
Other Town Transport
Several modes of transport
Suburban Rail Lines
The hév line (H9) runs from Örs operate in the Buda Hills west
The hév line H5 is most vezér tere and terminates in the of the city (see p165). A cog-
commonly used by tourists and village of Csömör just off the wheel railway connects Szilágyi
runs north from Batthyány tér northeast boundary of Budapest. Erzsébet fasor with Széchenyi
(see p104) towards Szentendre A fourth hév line (H6) begins Hill, with its picturesque walking
(see p169), taking in such sights at Közvágóhíd and terminates trails – BKK tickets and passes
as Aquincum (see pp166–7) approximately 40 km (25 miles) are valid right along the line.
along the way. Many of the away at Ráckeve on Csepel The Children’s Railway
trains on this line terminate Island (see p171). Tourists who runs from Széchenyi Hill to
at Békásmegyer rather than make this long journey can Hűvössvölgy (see p11). A chair
running on to Szentendre. You enjoy a visit to the palace of lift, or libegő, descends from
should check the destination Prince Eugene of Savoy. the top of János Hill down on
on the front of the train The fifth hév service (H7) to Zugligeti út.
before boarding. between Boráros tér and In the centre of the city the
Another line (H8) runs from Csepel Island is the shortest, Budavári Sikló is an old funicular
Örs vezér tere (at the eastern extending only 7 km (4 miles). railway which runs between the
terminus of the M2 metro line) Hév trains run regularly Buda end of the Chain Bridge
to Gödöllő, passing the between 4am and 11.30pm. and the top of Castle Hill.
Hungaroring Grand Prix race BKK tickets are valid up to the Buy tickets for all three modes
track (see p63) near Mogyoród city boundary; a supplementary of transport at the ticket offices
en route. ticket is required to go further. before boarding.

Getting Around by Taxi
It has always been easy to find a taxi in Budapest. The
competition was so fierce that some companies used
unfair methods to attract passengers or exploited foreign
visitors, especially those unfamiliar with Budapest. To
reduce this risk, the municipality of Budapest devised taxi
regulations. All licensed taxis have to be yellow, apply the A licensed Budapest taxi
same fares and conform to strict standards, such as having
air conditioning and accepting payment by credit card.
DIRECTORY
Using Taxis Taxi Companies
operators on duty. The total
Taxi ranks can be found fare you will be asked to Budapest Taxi
throughout Budapest and pay is made up of three Tel (06 1) 777 77 77.
are seldom empty. Taxis can parts; a basic charge, a per- ∑ budapesttaxi.hu
also be hailed on the street kilometre charge, and a City Taxi Tel (06 1) 211 11 11.
but to avoid problems it is waiting charge. On getting ∑ citytaxi.hu
often better to book from into the taxi, ensure that Főtaxi Tel (06 1) 222 22 22.
your hotel or by phone. the meter is set at the ∑ fotaxi.hu
All of the companies listed beginning of the journey Taxi 2000 Tel (06 1) 200 00 00.
in the Directory are likely and ask for an estimate of ∑ taxi2000.hu
to have English-speaking what the fare will be.




238-239_EW_Budapest.indd 239 15/09/16 10:34 am

240  SUR VIV AL GUIDE

Getting Around by Tram Travelling with Luggage
Every passenger on all forms
There are more than 30 tram lines in Budapest, which extend of public transport is entitled
to practically every part of the city except the hilly parts of to carry two small pieces of
Buda. Trams are yellow in colour and are a good way of luggage. You can also carry
travelling for sightseeing in the centre. They are easy to one pair of ice skates and one
pair of skis, as well as a child’s
use and an efficient and speedy means of getting around buggy. For transporting a
Budapest, as they avoid traffic and run very frequently. bicycle or a larger item of
Services start early in the morning, from about 4:30am, and luggage, the rack railway or
run regularly throughout the day until 11pm or midnight, the designated carriages of
depending on the route. Night trams operate only on line the hév trains should be used
and an extra ticket is needed.
4, every 10 to 15 minutes. More information on late-night
transport is given on page 215.
Sightseeing by Tram
Trams provide a cheap, pleasant
way to explore the city. Tram 2
runs along the river Danube in
Pest between Közvágóhíd and
Jászai Mari tér. It passes in front
of the Parliament building
and is one of the most beautiful
and famous tramlines in the
world, offering passengers an
unforgettable vista of Buda
Castle across the river. Running
parallel to Tram 2 is Tram 19,
which traverses the Buda side
of the Danube, from Óbuda to
the Kelenföld railway station,
One of the city’s yellow trams, on route No. 2 with equally gorgeous views.
Trams 4 and 6 are also useful
The Tram System
the machine inside the tram. All routes for travelling through
Tickets (see p238) for trams can tram stops display the relevant Central Pest.
be bought at metro stations tram numbers and the timetable. For a nostalgic trip, look out for
and some newspaper kiosks. You Some have electronic displays. the wonderfully restored vintage
can also get them from vending When a tram line is closed for trams that are frequently operated
machines on some tram maintenance, replacement by BKK along the tramline 2 line
platforms. Validate your ticket in buses (potlóbusz) are provided. at weekends.

Useful Bus and Tram Routes Bécsi út / Jászai
Vörösvári út Mari tér Museum of
This map shows the best bus and Fine Arts
tram routes for sightseeing in Széll Nyugati
páyaudvar M
Budapest. The locations of major Kálmán Parliament
sights are marked, as well as the tér M Mátyás State Opera House
nearest useful stop. Sights should Church Duna Oktogon
then only be a short walk away.
Déli Clark St Stephen’s
pályaudvar M Ádám tér Basilica
Key Hungarian Erzsébet tér Blaha Lujza
National Gallery tér M
Deák
Major sight Royal Ferenc tér M
Tram No. 2 Palace Inner City
Tram No. 4 Parish Church Hungarian
National
Tram No. 6 Fővám tér M Kálvin Museum
tér M
Tram No. 49 Szent Gellért tér M
Gellért Hotel &
Tram No. 17 Baths Complex Boráros tér H
Bus No. 16
Tram No. 19 Móricz Zsigmond körtér M
Stop (selected stops only) Kelenföld Újbuda központ M Duna
vasútállomás M Savoya park Vágóhíd
240-241_EW_Budapest.indd 240 15/09/16 10:30 am

GE T TING AROUND BUD APEST  241

Getting Around by Bus It is worth noting that buses
sometimes get caught in heavy
Budapest has about 200 different bus routes, covering the traffic congestion in the centre
whole city. They are a recommended mode of transport for of the city during rush hours,
visitors, except during rush hour. Daytime services run from and their progress at these
about 4:30am to 11pm, with departures on most routes times can be slow. If you are
in a hurry it might be better
every 10–20 minutes. There is a good range of night buses to take a tram or the metro,
operating across the city every 15–60 minutes. Departure or even to walk.
times and a list of destinations are on display at each stop.
All buses are blue – ordinary buses are indicated by black
numbers and halt at every stop. Buses with the letter “E”
follow express routes and omit a number of stops.

The Bus System transport information. Tickets
Budapest’s bus system is must be punched upon
extremely efficient and makes entering the bus. The next stop
exploring the city easy, even is always announced, often
for first-time visitors. Many bus informing passen gers about any Bus stop with a real-time display board
stops now have electronic interchanges. To ensure that the Sightseeing by Bus
displays showing real-time bus stops, you should press the
button located by the door Buses are especially helpful for
before your required stop. exploring the hilly area of Buda.
Remember that Budapest’s bus Bus 16 will take you close to
drivers tend to drive fast and Buda Castle.
that the streets, particularly in Various hop-on/hop-off bus
Buda, can be steep. This tour companies operate in the
combin ation makes it advisable city. These cover the major
to hang on tightly to the hand sights and allow you to explore
Some of Budapest’s modern buses grips when standing on a bus. the city at your own pace.
Getting Around by Trolley Bus runs from Parliament on
Kossuth Lajos tér, past
Trolley buses, which are red, operate only in Pest. It is the City Park to Erzsébet
advisable to hold on tight if you are standing, as they királyné útja.
can accelerate very suddenly. Timetables are displayed
at each stop. Ticket Vending Machine
Tickets are sold at metro
The Trolley Bus System stop, the driver will not stations and the vending
The same rules apply for automatically come to a halt. machines at major transport
travelling on a trolley bus as Trolley buses are numbered junctions. Besides cash (forints),
when travelling on a bus. from 70 upwards and there the new machines also accept
Remember to signal to the are about 15 different routes credit and debit cards, even
driver by pressing the button in Budapest. Tickets must be contactless (PayPass) ones.
located above the door when punched upon boarding.
approaching your stop. A particularly pleasant and
Otherwise, if there are no useful route is taken by
passengers waiting at the trolley bus No. 70, which











A red trolley bus in Budapest Ticket vending machine




240-241_EW_Budapest.indd 241 15/09/16 10:30 am

242  BUD APEST STREE T FINDER

STREET FINDER

The map references for all the sights, together with other use ful information
hotels, bars, restaurants, shops and listed in the key below. As an aid to
entertainment venues described in this navigation, all street names, both on
book refer to the maps in this section. the Street Finder and in the index, are in
A complete index of street names marked Hungarian. Slightly confusing are the
on the maps appears on pages 254–6. terms utca (often abbreviated to u), which
The map below shows the area of means street, and út meaning avenue, a
Budapest covered by the Street Finder term mainly applied to wide, busy roads.
and is colour-coded by area. The Street Other commonly used terms are körút (ring
Finder also includes bus and tram routes, road), tér (square), köz (lane), körtér (circus)
major sights and places of interest and híd (bridge).




V Á C I Ú T. RÓBERT KÁROLY KÖRÚT


Key to Street Finder
Major sight
Place of interest H UNG ÁR IA KÖ RÚ T
Other building
Metro station SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT
Hév station DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
Train station M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T A N D R ÁS SY ÚT Around
North of the
River boat boarding point Castle District Városliget
Main bus stop
Tram stop F Ő U. Around
Funicular station Parliament ROTTEN BILLE R U.
Tourist information point A T TI L A Ú T ID. A NTAL L J Ò ZS E F R . T H ÖK Ö LY ÚT
Hospital with casualty unit ANDRÁSSY Ú T ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
Police station KR ISZ T INA K ÖR ÚT Castle KEREPESI ÚT
Church District RÁKÓCZI ÚT
Synagogue
Central
Railway line JAN E H ANI NG R. Pest
Pedestrianized street D a n u b e
HE GYALJA ÚT K Á R O LY I U. BAROSS U.


Gellért Hill Ü LLŐ I ÚT
Scale of Maps 1–8: 1:12,000 and Tabán
0 metres 200
0 yards 200
B U DAÖR S I Ú T

Scale of Maps 9–10: 1:10,500 BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT
0 metres 200
0 yards 200







242-243_EW_Budapest.indd 242 15/09/16 10:34 am

BUD APEST STREE T FINDER  243












House in the leafy Tabán district (see p98)





Deák Ferenc tér (see p125), named after politician
Ferenc Deák and home to the city’s first ever
public toilet
V Á C I Ú T.
RÓBERT KÁROLY KÖRÚT








M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT A N D R ÁS SY ÚT Városliget H UNG ÁR IA KÖ RÚ T
North of the
Around
Castle District
DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
Around
Parliament RO T T E N B ILLER U .
F Ő U.
ANDRÁSSY Ú T ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT T H ÖK Ö LY ÚT
A T TI L A Ú T
Castle KEREPESI ÚT
ID. A NTAL L J Ò ZS E F R .
District Flag-lined avenue in the Castle District (see pp82–3)
RÁKÓCZI ÚT
KR ISZ T INA K ÖR ÚT
Central
Pest
JAN E H ANI NG R.
D a n u b e
HE GYALJA ÚT K Á R O LY I U. BAROSS U.
Gellért Hill Ü LLŐ I ÚT
and Tabán
0 kilometres 2
0 miles 1
B U DAÖR S I Ú T BARTÓK BÉLA ÚT



Statue of King Ludwig I, part
of the colossal Millennium
Monument on Heroes’ Square
(see p149), which was
completed in 1929




242-243_EW_Budapest.indd 243 15/09/16 10:34 am

BÓ Centenáriumi PANNÓNIA U. VICTOR HUGO U. Lehel
tér
LEVÉL U. LYAI U.
SZEMLÖHEGY U. RÓMER FLÓRIS U. ORGONA U. FRANKEL LEÓ ÚT Lukács ÁRPÁD FEJEDELEM ÚTJA Margitsziget CARL LUTZ RAKPART HOLLÁN ERNŐ U. TÁTRA U. HEGEDÛSGYULA U. KRESZ GÉZA U. LEHEL TÉR
emlékmű
ÁLDAS U.
Gyógyfürdő
ESZTER U.
ÜSTÖKÖS U.
BALZAC U.
CSANÁDY U.
GÜL BABA U.
GERGELY G. U.
RÓZSADOMB APOSTOL U. TURBÁN U. Gül TÛRBE SLACHTA MARGIT RAKPART RADNÓTI MIKLÓS U. XIII VISEGRÁDI U.
TÉR
BARSI U. Baba türbéje . MECSET U TÖRÖK U. ORFI ÚJPESTI U. POZSONYI U. FELKA U. GYÖNGYHAZ U.
ZIVATAR U. KÚT U. MARGIT U. Margit híd Margit híd KATONA JÓZSEF U. ÚJLIPÓTVÁROS BALZAC U. FERDINÁND HÍD
ADY ENDRE U.
RAOUL WALLENBERG U.
FÛGE U.
BUDAY LÁSZLÓ U. RÓMER FLÓRIS U. HENGER U. FRANKEL LEÓ U. LIPTHAY U. BUDAI N. U. TÁTRA U. PANNÓNIA U. HEGEDŰS GYULA U. RADNÓTI MIKLÓS U.
HOLLÁN ERNŐ U.
BIMBÓ U.
Ferencesek
JÁSZAI
templom TÖLGYFA U. u b e MARI TÉR KRESZ GÉZA U. VÁCI ÚT
KITAIBEL PÁL U. II FEKETE SAS U. BEM J. Bem József D a n SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT VISEGRÁDI U. BORBÉLY U. KATONA JÓZSEF U.
TÉR
szobra
KELETI KÁROLY U.
BEM J. U.
FÉNYES E. U. Szt.Flórián ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RAKPART BALATON U. FALK MIKSA U. H O N V É D U. BALATON U. KÁDÁR U. Nyugati
kápolna
GANZ U.
KISRÓKUS U.
MARGIT KÖRÚT SZÁSZ KÁROLY U KAPÁS U. HORVÁT U. KACSA U. Király F Ő U . ANGELO ROTTA RAKPART BALASSI BÁLINT U. HONVÉD STOLLÁR B. U. NYUGATI pályaudvar CSENGERY U.
Gyógyfürdó
TÉR
TÉR
BIHARI J. U.
ERŐD U.
FÉNY U. LÖVŐHÁZ U. JURÁNYI U. VARSÁNYI IRÉN U. . MEDVE U. VITÉZ U. GYORSKOCSI U. NAGY BEM RAKPART MARKÓ U. SZEMERE U. MARKÓ U. JÓKAI U. SZOBI U.
KAPÁS U. FAZEKAS U. IMRE Museum of SZALAY U. NAGY IGNÁC U. EÖTVÖS U.
TÉR
RETEK U. Ethnography SZALAY U. Béke
SZÉNA CSALOGÁNY U. PODMANICZKY U. Radisson
ERŐD U.
Hotel
TÉR CSALOGÁNY U. VAJKAY U. TERÉZ KÖRÚT
HATTYÚ U.
St Francis’s
Országház
Széll Kálmán OSTROM U BATTHYÁNY U. MÁLNA U. Wounds Church Parliament KOSSUTH ALKOTMÁNY U. WE I N E R L E Ó U . LO VA G U. VI
LIPÓTVÁROS
tér
VÉRMEZŐ ÚT VÁRFOK U. FIÁTH JÁNOS U. SZABÓ ILONKA U. KAGYLO U. MÁRIA ISKOLA U. MARKOVITS U. Batthyány Földművelésügyi VÉRTANÚK KOZMA F. U. HONVÉD U. HOLD U. BÁTHORY U. NAGYMEZŐ U. D ES S EWFF Y U . JÓKAI U.
LAJOS
KÁLMÁN IMRE U.
TÉR
TÉR
BATTHYÁNY U. .
TOLDY FERENC U.
tér
ZI C H Y JE N Ő U .
Minisztérium
FŐ U.
Kossuth
Lajos tér
VÍZIVÁROS
MÁTRAY U.
HUNFALVY U.
LOVAS ÚT
Ó U.
TÉR
St Anne’s Church
Hadtörténeti
KAPU
PERCZEL M. U.
Múzeum BÉCSI BABITS M. SÉTANY FRANKLIN U. Szent Anna templom GARIBALDI U. TERE VÉCSEY U. AULICH U. VADÁSZ U. BAJCSY-ZSILINSZKY TERÉZVÁROS MOZSÁR U. JÓKAI
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Buadavári VÁM U. NÁDOR U. NAGYSÁNDOR J. U.
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TÉR GIMNÁZIUM U. ISKOLA U. Református KISS E. U. Operett Szinház
I FORTUNA U. SZABÓ ILONKA U. TOLDY FERENC U. templom V HOLD U. ZIC H Y JENŐ U. HAJÓS U.
LOGODI U.
Mária Magdolna SZILÁGYI STEINDL I. U. Operaház
LOVAS ÚT
templom tornya HESS A. TÉR ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RAKPART BANK U. State Opera House
FORTUNA K. TÉR Hilton Szálló CORVIN Kapucinus templom SZÉCHENYI RAKPART AKADÉMIA U. SZÉCHENYI U. ARANY JÁNOS U. TÉR Arany Ó U. LÁ Z Á R U . DALSZÍNHÁZ U. Opera
KORLÁT U.
ÚRI U.
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Mátyás Church
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pályaudvar Sziklakórház ZRÍNYI U. TÉR
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tér
KRISZTINA
VIGADÓ U. templom
TÉR SÜTŰ U. Evangélikus
244-245_EW_Budapest.indd 244 20/08/2015 16:55
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
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Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

BÓ Centenáriumi PANNÓNIA U. VICTOR HUGO U. Lehel
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PERCZEL M. U.
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Buadavári VÁM U. NÁDOR U. NAGYSÁNDOR J. U.
Evangélikus DONÁTI U. ZOLTÁN U. SZABADSÁG Postatakarék DESSEWFFY U.
KAPISZTRÁN templom TÁNCSICS M. U. TÉR Pénztár Fövárosi
TÉR GIMNÁZIUM U. ISKOLA U. Református KISS E. U. Operett Szinház
I FORTUNA U. SZABÓ ILONKA U. TOLDY FERENC U. templom V HOLD U. ZI C H Y J ENŐ U . HAJÓS U.
LOGODI U.
Mária Magdolna SZILÁGYI STEINDL I. U. Operaház
LOVAS ÚT
templom tornya HESS A. TÉR ID. ANTALL JÓZSEF RAKPART BANK U. State Opera House
FORTUNA K. TÉR Hilton Szálló CORVIN Kapucinus templom SZÉCHENYI RAKPART AKADÉMIA U. SZÉCHENYI U. ARANY JÁNOS U. TÉR Arany Ó U. LÁ Z Á R U . DALSZÍNHÁZ U. Opera
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ÚRI U.
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ALKOTÁS U. BUGÁT U. DÁRDA U. Budavári TÉR Mátyás templom PONTY U. HALÁSZ U. Hungarian Academy ARANY JÁNOS U. S A S U. H E R CE G PRÍM ÁS Szent István Bazilika RÉVAY U. Drechsler
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ORSZÁGHÁZ U.
palota
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Mátyás Church
TÜKÖRY U.
SZENTHÁROMSÁG
Halászbástya
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St Stephen’s Basilica
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VASVÁRI P. U.
PAULAY EDE U.
Európai
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DÍSZ MÉRLEG U. K AZINC ZY U .
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KRISZTINA KÖRÚT
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tér
KRISZTINA
VIGADÓ U. templom
TÉR SÜTŰ U. Evangélikus
244-245_EW_Budapest.indd 245 20/08/2015 16:55

FEHÉR H. U.
MÁRVÁNY U. PA LO TA Ú T VIGADÓ U. DEÁK FERENC U. SZERVITA BÁRCZY I. U. Önkormányzat
Fővárosi
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MÉSZÁROS U.
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TÉR
M A RVÁNY U . PÁLYA U. ÁG U. TIGRIS U. N APHEG Y U. SARLÓ U. Hungarian National Gallery TÉR TÜRR U. Bankház templom VÁROSHÁZ U. GERLÓCZY U. KÁROLY KRT. Zsinagóga
GYŐZŐ U.
Magyar Nemzeti Galèria
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TÉR Szarvas ház Múzeum e Ferences REÁLTANODA U.
G Y Ő R I U . AVAR ÚT TI B OR U . D E Z S Ő U. LISZNYAI U. TA B Á N DÖBRENTEI U. Belvárosi plébánia templom Klotild Palaces KÚRIA U. templom Egyetemi
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MÁRCIUS 15
TI G R I S U .
Könyvtár
TÉR
IRÁNYI U.
K R I S Z T I N A K Ö R Ú T
HENSZLMANN U.
palota
Tabáni
BÁN U. NAPHEGY CZAKÓ U. KERESZT U. plébániatemplom DUNAU. VERES PÁLNÉ U. CUKOR U. KÁROLYI U. Károlyi
V
Sportkórház DERÉK U. HADNAGY U. DÖBRENTEI IRÁNYI U. PAPNÖVELDE U. EGYETEM MAGYAR U.
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TÉR
ALKOTÁS U.
G Y Ő R I U . TÁ LT O S U . ZSOLT U . PIROSKA U. TIGRIS U. CZA KÓ U. HEGYALJA ÚT Rác Erzsébet Királyné Erzsébet híd Angolkisaszonyok NYÁRY PÁL U. Egyetemi ELTE KECSKEMÉTI U.
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E SZÉ K U.
JÁSZÓVÁR U.
246-247_EW_Budapest.indd 246 20/08/2015 16:55
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Streetfinder holder template “UK” LAYER
(Source v1)
Date 13th August 2012
Size 125mm x 217mm

FEHÉR H. U.
MÁRVÁNY U. PA LO TA Ú T VIGADÓ U. DEÁK FERENC U. SZERVITA BÁRCZY I. U. Önkormányzat
Fővárosi
VIGADÓ
MÉSZÁROS U.
Török
TÉR
GYŐZŐ U.
M A RVÁNY U . PÁLYA U. ÁG U. TIGRIS U. N APHEG Y U. SARLÓ U. Hungarian National Gallery TÉR TÜRR U. Bankház templom VÁROSHÁZ U. GERLÓCZY U. KÁROLY KRT. Zsinagóga
Magyar Nemzeti Galèria
Szervita
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RÓKA U. XII LISZNYAI U . O RVOS U . AT T I L FRIEDRICH BORN RKP JANE HANING RAKPART APÁCZAI U . ARANYKÉZ U. VÁCI U. PETŐFI S. U. VÁRMEGYE U. Astoria
TÉR
GYŐRI U.
SEMMELWEIS U.
KISS JÁNOS ALTÁB. U. FE NYŐ U. LÁNCHÍD U. D a RÉGIPOSTA U. PÁRIZSI U. PILVAX KÖZ Önkormányzat
Pest Megyei
DÓZSA A Ú T
YBL. M. n GALAMB U. HARIS KÖZ Ferenciek KOSSUTH L. U.
NYÁRS U. FÉM U. Semmelweis u Görögkeleti MAGYAR U.
TÉR
Ortodox
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TÉR Szarvas ház Múzeum e Ferences REÁLTANODA U.
G Y Ő R I U . AVA R Ú T TI B OR U . D E Z S Ő U. LISZNYAI U. TA B Á N DÖBRENTEI U. Belvárosi plébánia templom Klotild Palaces KÚRIA U. templom Egyetemi
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MÁRCIUS 15
TI G R I S U .
Könyvtár
TÉR
IRÁNYI U.
K R I S Z T I N A K Ö R Ú T
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Tabáni
BÁN U. NAPHEGY CZAKÓ U. KERESZT U. plébániatemplom DUNAU. VERES PÁLNÉ U. CUKOR U. KÁROLYI U. Károlyi
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V I S E G R Á D I U . APÁLY U. GIDÓFALVY L. U. ÜTEG U. CSATA U. KARTÁCS U. GÖMB U. SZEGEDI ÚT SZENT LÁSZLÓ UT TATAI U. SZŐNYI ÚT TENGERSZEM U.
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