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The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this vibrant and historic city.

Explore the historic heart of Buda on Castle Hill, take a dip in one of the city's thermal baths or shop till you drop along Váci Street's market stalls: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Budapest with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out city map, help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Budapest, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Neo-Gothic Parliament, striking Hungarian State Opera, imposing Gellért Hotel and Baths and more
- Colour photographs of Budapest's historic sights, incredible architecture, beautiful baths, pretty parks

and gardens, and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about this city's fascinating

history and culture, traditional festivals and events, local food and drink, shops and markets, folk and

classical music, theatre and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Castle District, Gellért Hill and Tabán, Parliament, Central

Pest, Városliget and beyond
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

and visa and health information.

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to Hungary's spectacular capital.

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Published by Read My eBook for FREE!, 2020-02-19 00:09:02

(DK Eyewitness) Travel Guide - Budapest

The ideal travel companion, full of insider advice on what to see and do, plus detailed itineraries and

comprehensive maps for exploring this vibrant and historic city.

Explore the historic heart of Buda on Castle Hill, take a dip in one of the city's thermal baths or shop till you drop along Váci Street's market stalls: everything you need to know is clearly laid out within colour-coded chapters. Discover the best of Budapest with this indispensable travel guide.

Inside DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest:

- Over 25 colour maps, plus a large-scale pull-out city map, help you navigate with ease
- Simple layout makes it easy to find the information you need
- Comprehensive tours and itineraries of Budapest, designed for every interest and budget
- Illustrations and floorplans show the inside of icons such as the Neo-Gothic Parliament, striking Hungarian State Opera, imposing Gellért Hotel and Baths and more
- Colour photographs of Budapest's historic sights, incredible architecture, beautiful baths, pretty parks

and gardens, and more
- Historical and cultural context gives you a richer travel experience: learn about this city's fascinating

history and culture, traditional festivals and events, local food and drink, shops and markets, folk and

classical music, theatre and more
- Detailed chapters, with area maps, cover Castle District, Gellért Hill and Tabán, Parliament, Central

Pest, Városliget and beyond
- Essential travel tips: our expert choices of where to stay, eat, shop and sightsee, plus useful phrases,

and visa and health information.

DK Eyewitness Travel Guide Budapest is a detailed, easy-to-use guide designed to help you get the most from your visit to Hungary's spectacular capital.

gellér t hill and t abán  99

9 Rácz Hotel & w Semmelweis
Thermal Spa Museum of
Rácz szálloda és Gyógyfürdő Medical History
Hadnagy utca 8–10. Map 4 D2 (9 B5). Semmelweis Orvostörténeti
Tel (06 1) 487 03 13. @ 5, 178. Múzeum
v 18, 19. Open 7am–10pm daily.
Apród utca 1–3. Map 4 D1 (9 B4).
Taking their name from the Tel (06 1) 375 35 33. v 18, 19.
Open Mar–Oct: 10:30am–6pm daily;
Serbian, or Rác, people who Nov–Feb 10:30am–4pm. & 8 ^
once lived here, the baths date ∑ semmelweismuseum.hu
back to the Turkish era (see
pp28–9). This is not clear from This museum is located in the
the outside, as the baths were 18th-century house where
redeveloped in 1869 to a Dr Ignáz Semmelweis was born
design by Miklós Ybl. Inside, Tabán Parish Church, with its Neo-Baroque in 1818. He is renowned for
however, original Ottoman domed tower his discovery of an antiseptic-
features include an octagonal based prevention for puerperal
pool and cupola. The hotel 12th-century carving entitled fever, a fatal condition
complex includes 21 treatment Christ of Tabán; the original common among women
rooms, 13 pools, a relaxation is now in the collection of the who had recently given birth.
area and saunas. Budapest History Museum The history of medicine from
(see p76). The altar, pulpit and ancient Egypt onwards is por-
several paintings adorning trayed, and there is a replica
the walls of the church all date 19th-century pharmacy. Semmel-
from the 19th century. weis’s surgery can also be seen
with its original furniture. In the
courtyard is a monument called
Motherhood by Miklós Borsos.
q Miklós Ybl
Square e Golden Stag
Ybl Miklós Tér
House
Map 4 D1 (9 C4). v 19.
Szarvas Ház
It is no coincidence that the Szarvas tér 1. Map 3 C1 (9 B4).
important architect Miklós Ybl Tel (06 1) 375 64 51. v 18, 19.
Interior of the Rácz Hotel & Thermal Spa (see p123) is commemorated by ∑ aranyszarvas.hu
a statue in this square, close to
many of his buildings. Among Standing at the foot of Castle
0 Tabán Parish Ybl’s most monumen tal projects Hill is this distinctive early
Church were the State Opera House 19th-century house. It received
Tabáni Plébániatemplom (see pp122–3), St Stephen’s its name from the inn that
Basilica (see pp120–21) and also opened here called “Under
Attila út 11. Map 4 D1 (9 C5). a large-scale rebuilding of the the Golden Stag” – above the
Tel (06 1) 375 54 91. v 18, 19.
Royal Palace (see pp74–5). entrance you will see a bas-
A temple is thought to have The Várkert Kiosk, on the relief depicting a golden stag
stood on this site even in the square, was also built by Ybl. pursued by two hunting
reign of Prince Árpád. In the Initially it pumped water up to dogs. The building still accom-
Middle Ages a church was built the Royal Palace, but in 1903 modates a restaurant of that
here, which was conver ted into it was converted into a café. It is name, Aranyszarvas (see p197),
a mosque by the Turks and now used as an event venue offering international cuisine,
subsequently des troyed. In available for hire. and some game dishes.
1728–36, after the Habsburgs
had taken control of the city,
a second church was erected
to a design by Keresztély
Obergruber. Mátyás Nepauer
added the tower in the mid-
18th century. In 1881 the
façade was extended and the
tower crowned by a Neo-
Baroque dome.
Inside the church, on the
right-hand side under the choir
gallery, is a copy of a Bas-relief above the entrance to Golden Stag House




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100-101_EW_Budapest.indd 100 05/09/2014 15:37

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  101

NORTH OF THE
CASTLE DISTRICT


Between Castle Hill and the western bank of Víziváros create a wonderful vista
of the Danube, extending north from the along the western bank of the Danube.
Chain Bridge towards Margit körút, is the In the Middle Ages and during the 150
area known as Víziváros or Water Town. years of Turkish occupation this area north of
This area gained its name in the Middle Castle Hill was forti fied by a system of walls.
Ages due to constant flooding. It was A short section of these walls still exists by
origi nally an area inhabited by artisans No. 66 Margit körút, and is commemorated
and fishermen who, due to this flooding, by a plaque. The tomb of Gül Baba, a Turkish
remained poorer than their neighbours dervish, is in the north of the area. It is one
on Castle Hill. Today, the church towers of the few surviving Ottoman monuments.

Sights at a Glance ZSIGMOND U.
Churches Restaurants pp197–8
2 Capuchin Church 1 Arany Kaviár Étterem FEJEDELEM U. ÁRPÁD
3 Calvinist Church 2 Arriba GÜLBABA U. ÜSTŐKÖS U.
4 St Anne’s Church 3 Carne di Hall APOSTOL U.
MECSET U.
pp106–7 4 Csalogány utca 26 TÖRÖK U. Margit híd
6 St Francis’s Wounds 5 Dunaparti Matróz Kocsma MARGIT U.
Church 6 Gusto Café
7 Horgásztanya Vendéglő M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T
Historic Buildings 8 Kacsa Vendéglő FRANKEL LEÓ UT LIPTHAY
and Monuments 9 Mandragóra HENGER U.
1 Tunnel 10 Nagyi Palacsintázója TÖLGYFA U. FEKETE SAS U.
8 Tomb of Gül Baba 11 Pavillion de Paris BEM J.
TÉR
12 Róma Ételbár BEM J. U.
Squares 13 Trófea Grill
5 Batthyány Square 14 Vigadó Söröző GANZ U.
Baths KAPÁS U. HORVÁT U. FŐ U.
7 Király Baths M A R G I T K Ö R Ú T ERŐD U. KÁROLY U. SZÁSZ KACSA U. ANGELS ROTTA RAKPART
9 Lukács Baths JURÁNYI U. VARSÁNYI IRÉN U.
KAPÁS U. FAZEKAS U. MEDVE U. VITÉZ U. GYORSKOCSI U. NAGY BEM RAKPART D a n u b e
IMRE
TÉR
SZÉNA CSALOGÁNY U.
TÉR HATTYÚ U. CSALOGÁNY U.
VÉRMEZŐ ÚT OSTROM U. FIÁTH JÁNOS U. TOLDY FERENC U. MÁRIA MÁLNA U. Batthyány
BATTHYÁNY U.
TÉR
tér
Széll Kálmán VÁRFOK U. SZABÓ ILONKA U. VÍZIVÁROS
tér MARKOVITS U.
MÁTRAY U.
FRANKLIN U. FŐ U.
VÁM U.
ISKOLA U.
SZILÁGYI
TÉR
DONÁ TI U.
TOLDY FERENC U.
SZABÓ ILONKA U.
0 metres 300 CORVIN
TÉR
0 yards 300 HALÁSZ U.
SZALAG U. PONTY U. STEHLO GÁBOR RAKPART
PALA U.
FARKAS BÍRÓ U.
FŐ U.
See also Street Finder CLARK ÁDÁM
maps 1 & 9 TÉR
The Calvinist Church with its roof of colourful ceramic tiles For keys to symbols see back flap

100-101_EW_Budapest.indd 101 21/10/2016 17:10

102  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Víziváros

Fő utca, the main street of Víziváros
(Water Town), runs the length of
the neighbour hood. Numerous
cafés and restaurants, spectacular
Baroque monuments, and a
promenade along the Danube give
this area a charming atmosphere. B A T T H Y Á N Y
T É R
A fine array of churches, in an
interes ting assortment of
architectural styles, reflect the
history of the area as far back as
the Middle Ages. From the Danube
pro menade the panorama of 6. St Francis’s Wounds
Pest opposite, with Parliament Church
The Baroque pulpit in this church
(see pp112–13) in the foreground, was carved by the Franciscans, for
can best be viewed. whom the church was built in the
mid-18th century.
F
Ő

The Hikisch House U
was built on top of T
C
medieval walls. The A
façade, dating from 1795,
features bas-reliefs of
cherubs carrying out
different tasks. Other
reliefs depict allegories
of the four seasons.

The White Cross Inn,
one of Budapest’s
earliest inns, was
est ablished in 1770.
Its asymmetrical façade
was created by joining
two houses together.
Among those reputed
to have stayed here
are Emperor Joseph II
and also Casanova.

5 . Batthyány Square
A monument to Ferenc Kölcsey
(1790–1838) overlooks this square.
He was a literary critic and political
commentator of the early
19th century, and also wrote
the prayer Lord, Bless Hungary,
which is used as the lyrics for the
0 metres 100 Hungarian national anthem.
0 yards 100


Key
Suggested route




102-103_EW_Budapest.indd 102 15/09/16 10:33 am
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

NOR TH OF THE C ASTLE DISTRIC T  103


4 . St Anne’s Church
Characteristic of the
late Baroque period, the
interior of this church is
NORTH OF THE
quite stun ning. The main CASTLE DISTRICT
portal is decorated with
allegorical sculptures of CASTLE CENTRAL
Faith, Hope and Charity. DISTRICT PEST
B A T T H Y Á N Y Locator Map
T É R
See Street Finder, maps 1 & 9
3 Calvinist Church
The roof of this church, built in
1893–6, is covered with colourful
S
ceramic tiles from the Zsolnay
T
factory (see p58). They are an
E
attractive focal point in the
H
L
panorama of Buda.
O
Á B
G
O
R
A
R
F
Ő
T C K R
U
P A
T
A
A Monument to Samu Pecz
stands beside one of his most
important buildings, the Calvinist
Church. Pecz was a follower of
the Neo-Gothic movement and
constructed many other impor tant
buildings in the city.
2 Capuchin Church
In its original medieval
form, this church underwent
conversion into a mosque
at the hands of the Turks.
Many Gothic elements have
survived, however. Its present
structure dates from 1854–6.
To Clark Ádám tér and
F
Ő
the Chain Bridge

U
T
C
A
Kapisztory House, at
No. 20 Fő utca, was
built in 1811 for the
Greek merchant,
Joseph Kapisztory.
Its unusual turretted
cylindrical window is
an attractive fea ture
of this street.
102-103_EW_Budapest.indd 103 15/09/16 10:33 am

104  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


also interesting to note that
Pecz used this traditional
design of medieval Catholic
churches for a Calvinist
church, which has very
different liturgical and
ecclesiastical needs.

4 St Anne’s Church
See pp106–7.


The imposing entrance to the Tunnel on Clark Ádám tér 5 Batthyány Square
Batthyány Tér
1 Tunnel the doorway on the south ern Map 1 C3 (9 B1). £ H5. @ 11. v 19.
Alagút façade, have remained. Between q Batthyány tér.
1703–15 the church was
Clark Ádám tér. Map 1 C5 (9 B3). rebuilt, follow ing a Baroque Batthyány Square is one of
@ 16, 105, 116.
design created by one of the the most interesting squares
The Scottish engineer Adam Capuchin Fathers. on the Danube’s west ern bank.
Clark settled in Hungary after In 1856 the church was again Beautiful views of Parliament
completing the Chain Bridge restyled, by Ferenc Reitter and Pest on the op posite
(see p66). One of his later pro jects, and Pál Zsumrák, who linked bank unfold from here.
in 1853–7, was building the the differently styled façades In 1905, the square was
Tunnel that runs right through har moniously together. renamed after Count Lajos
Castle Hill, from Clark Ádám tér The statue of St Elizabeth on Batthyány, the prime minister
to Krisztin aváros. The Tunnel is the mid-19th-century Romantic during the Hungarian uprising
350 m (1,150 ft) long, 9 m (30 ft) façade also dates from 1856. of 1848–9 (see pp32–3), who was
wide and 11 m (36 ft) in height. shot by the Austrian army.
The entrance on Clark Ádám The square features
tér is flanked by two pairs of buildings in many different
Doric columns. This square is styles. The Hikisch House, at
the city’s official centre because No. 3, dating from the late
of the location here of the 18th century, is late Baroque.
Zero Kilometre Stone, from It is notable for the bas-reliefs
which all distances from on its façade depicting the
Budapest are calculated. four seasons. The White Cross
The Tunnel’s western entrance Inn, at No. 4, also late Baroque,
was originally orna mented features Rococo decoration.
with Egyptian motifs. However, On the western side of the
it was rebuilt with out these square is the first covered
details after it was damaged market in Buda, dating from
in World War II. 1902. Though damaged
in World War II, it is now
The altar of the Capuchin Church fully restored.
2 Capuchin Church
Kapucinus Templom
3 Calvinist Church
Fő utca 32. Map 1 C4 (9 B2). Tel (06 1)
201 47 25. 8 by arrangement. Református Templom
Szilágyi Dezső tér 3. Map 1 C4 (9 B2).
The origins of this church date Tel (06 1) 457 01 09.
from the 14th century, when
the mother of Louis I, Queen One of Budapest’s more
Elizabeth, decided to establish unusual churches, the Calvinist
a church here. Frag ments of Church was built by Samu
walls on the northern façade Pecz between 1893–6 on the
survive from this time. site of a former medieval
During the Turkish occupa tion mar ket. It is one of the major
(see pp28–9), the church was ex amples of his work.
converted into a mosque. Despite the use of modern
Features from this period, such tiles on the roof, the church The Hikisch House, with bas-reliefs
as the window openings and is Neo-Gothic in style. It is representing the four seasons




104-105_EW_Budapest.indd 104 15/09/16 10:30 am

NOR TH OF THE C ASTLE DISTRIC T  105

6 St Francis’s 9 Lukács Baths
Wounds Church Lukács Gyógyfürdő
Szent Ferenc sebei-templom Frankel Leo út 25–9. Map 1 C1.
Fő utca 41–43. Map 1 C3 (9 B1). Tel (06 1) 326 16 95. Open 6am–
Tel (06 1) 201 80 91. £ H5. @ 11. 10pm daily. & v 17, 19, 41.
v 19. q Batthyány tér. ∑ budapestspas.hu
Veli Bej Baths: Árpád Fejedelem útja 7.
In 1731–57 a church was built Tel (06 1) 438 8641. Open 6am–noon,
for the Franciscan order on the 3–9pm daily (admission to over 14s
ruins of a former mosque, to a only; proof by ID or passport required).
design by Hans Jakab. In 1785,
after he had dissolved the This famous spa is named after
Franciscan order, Emperor St Luke. Although the Neo-
Joseph II gave the church to Classical complex was established
St Elizabeth’s Convent. Tiles on the Tomb of Gül Baba in 1894, the baths are one of a
The Baroque interior is number still operating in the
ad orned with late 19th-century 8 Tomb of Gül Baba city (see pp52–5) that date back
frescoes, including one of St Gül Baba Türbéje to the period of Turkish rule.
Florian protecting Christians Mecset utca 14. Map 1 B1. @ 91. Set in peaceful surroundings,
from a fire in 1810. Their reso- Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm daily; the complex comprises two
nance is due to their skilful Nov–Feb: 10am–4pm daily. & outdoor swimming pools. Natural
restoration. The original pulpit hot springs keep these pools
and pews have remained intact. Gül Baba was a Muslim dervish, heated all year round; bathing is
In the early 19th century, a who died in 1541, just after comfortable even in winter.
hospital and hostel were built the capture of Buda. He was It is also worth entering
adjacent to the church. These one of the few Turks who was the overgrown courtyard to
were run by the Elizabeth Sisters. respected and revered by the see a statue of St Luke, dating
people of Hungary. His remains from 1760, and the plaques
now lie in a tomb built between inscribed with thanks by
7 Király Baths 1543 and 1598. bathers from around the
Király Gyógyfürdő According to legend, it was world who bene fited from
Gül Baba who introduced roses the healing waters.
Fő utca 84. Map 1 C2. Tel (06 1) 202 36 to Budapest. From this came Nearby, the Veli Bej thermal
88. q Batthyány tér. Open 9am–9pm
daily. & ∑ budapestspas.hu both the name of this area, baths, built in 1574–5, are the
Rózsadomb, meaning Rose oldest Turkish baths in Budapest
The Ottoman Király Baths are Hill, and Gül Baba’s own name, and also some of the most
one of the city’s four remain ing which means Father of Roses. beautiful. The baths have
Turkish baths (see pp52–5). Built Fittingly, his tomb is surrounded been fully renovated by the
from 1566–70, with 19th- by a lovely rose garden. Ordo Hospitalarius (Brothers
century Neo-Classical addi tions, A 400-year-old dome covers Hospitallers of St John of God)
they retain many original fea- the octagonal tomb, which is as part of their hospital, but are
tures, the most beautiful being adorned with reli gious items also open to the public. Visitors
the central cupola hall with its and rugs. It is a well-known can enjoy bathing in four pools
octagonal pool. From here place of pilgrimage for Muslims. of different temperatures.
radiate out the smaller pools
of different temperatures, the
steam rooms and saunas. The
baths are now open to men
and women.
At the end of Fő utca, in the
square that bears his name is
the monument to the Polish
general József Bem. The hero
of the 1848–9 uprisings, he is
depicted with his arm in a sling.
It was in this state, in the front
line of the Battle of Pisk, that he
inspired the Hungarian troops
to attack the bridge and achieve
victory over the Habsburg
armies. Memorable words,
which he uttered dur ing the
battle, are engraved on the
base of the monument. One of the thermal pools at Lukács Baths




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106  Bud apest area B y area

4 St Anne’s Church
Szent Anna Templom

Budapest is home to many churches, but the
twin-towered parish church of Víziváros is one
of its most beautiful Baroque examples. Initially
a Jesuit church, the architect who first designed
it is unknown. Building was begun in 1740 by
Kristóf Hámon and completed after his death
by Mátyás Máté Nepauer. In 1763 an earthquake
seriously damaged the building and the
dissolution of the Jesuit order ten years later
further delayed the completion of the church.
thus it remained unconsecrated until 1805.
The twin towers are
crowned by magnificent
Baroque spires.












Façade
Buda’s coat of arms appears in the centre of the
tympanum. The symbol of the Trinity is above this,
between two kneeling angels.
. Pulpit
This magnificent, late
Baroque pulpit was created
by Károly Bebó in 1773.
It features gilded details
and angels that embody
theological virtues.
The reliefs were
added at a later date.


Main entrance








Organ
The organ case from a former
Carmelite church on Castle Hill was
transferred to St Anne’s Church in the
late 18th century, after the dissolution
of the order by Emperor Joseph II.




106-107_EW_Budapest.indd 106 05/09/2014 15:37
Eyewitness Travel LAYERS PRINTED:
Starsight template “UK” LAYER
(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

nor th of the c astle distric t  107

. Painted Ceiling ViSitorS’ CHeCkliSt
The painted ceiling
in the cupola of the Practical Information
chancel depicts the Holy Batthyány tér 7. Map 1 C3 (9 B1).
Trinity. It was painted in tel (06 1) 201 63 64. open Only
1771 by Gergely Vogl. for services. 5 daily. Angelika
There are also Neo- café: tel (06 1) 225 16 53.
Baroque frescoes in the open 9am–11pm daily.
nave dating from 1938.
Transport
£ H5. @ 11. v 19, 41.
q Batthyány tér.

. High Altar
The sculptures depict
Mary, as a child, being
brought into the Temple
of Jerusalem by St Anne,
her mother. Completed in
1773, it is regarded as one
of the most beautiful
works of Károly Bebó.
















Church Pew
The choir pews are decorated with
intricately carved wooden panels, which
feature figurative scenes.





Baptismal Font
Concealed behind a
pillar, this baptismal
font has a carved
pedestal and a simply,
but beautifully,
decorated cover.
Side Altar
This late Baroque altar of
St Francis the Saviour, like
the altar of St Cross on
the opposite side of the
church, is the work of
Antal Eberhardt and
dates from 1768. The
picture in the centre was,
however, executed by
Franz Wagenschön.




106-107_EW_Budapest.indd 107 05/09/2014 15:37

Sights at a Glance
Historic Buildings and Palaces
1 Parliament pp112–13
3 Ministry of Agriculture
5 Post Office Savings Bank
6 Central European University
8 Gresham Palace
9 Hungarian Academy of Sciences
w Drechsler Palace
e Radisson Blu Béke Hotel,
Budapest
Museums
2 Museum of Ethnography
Squares
4 Liberty Square
7 Széchenyi István Square
Theatres
q Hungarian State Opera pp122–3
r Budapest Operetta Theatre
Churches
0 St Stephen’s Basilica pp120–21

Restaurants pp198–200
1 Alexandra Book Café
2 Ape Regina Budapest
Restaurant & Bar
3 Belvárosi Lugas Vendéglő
4 Bombay Curry Bar
5 Borkonyha
6 Budapest Bisztró
7 Café Bouchon
8 Café Jubilee
9 Café Kör
10 Európa Kávéház
11 First Strudel House of Pest
12 Ganga Vega Café
13 Govinda Étterem
14 Gresham Restaurant
15 Hummus Bar
16 Hungarikum Bisztro
17 Iguana
18 Kispiac Bisztró
19 KNRDY Steakhouse
20 Marquis de Salade
21 Momotaro Ramen
22 Okay Italia
23 La Pampa Steakhouse
24 La Plaza Étterem
25 Pomo D’oro
26 Rézkakas Bistro
27 Ristorante Krízia
28 Sir Lancelot Lovagi Étterem
29 Szeráj Török Étterem
30 Tigris








The ornately decorated Chamber of Congress
in Hungary’s Parliament



108-109_EW_Budapest.indd 108 15/09/16 10:30 am

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  109

AROUND PARLIAMENT

Towards the end of the 18th and throughout limits were crossed as the area was gradually
the 19th century Pest underwent a series of urbanized. This period produced a number
huge changes. In 1838 a flood destroyed of the most important buildings in Hungary,
most of the rural dwellings that had occupied including St Stephen’s Basilica, Parliament
the area until that time. The unification of and the Hungarian Academy of Sciences,
Budapest in 1873 and the 1,000-year which were built in a variety of revivalist
anniversary, in 1896, of the Magyar conquest styles. Many Neo-Classical residences were
also boosted the city’s development. The also built, particularly on Nádor utca,
medieval walls that originally marked Pest’s Akadémia utca and Október 6 utca.










See also Street Finder
maps 2, 5 & 10
KATONA JÓZSEF U.
JÁSZAI
MARI TÉR SZENT ISTVÁN KÖRÚT VISEGRÁDI U.
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART Ú J P E S T I U . BALASSI BÁLINT U. FALK MIKSA U. BALATON U. KÁDÁR U. VÁCI ÚT



Nyugati
HONVÉD
Pu.
TÉR
TÉR
SZEMERE U. STOLLÁR B. U. BIHARI J. U. NYUGATI PODMANICZKY UTCA
MARKÓ U.
NAGY IGNÁC U.
MARKÓ U.
SZALAY U.
A L K O T M Á N Y U . VI SZONDI U. EÖTVÖS U.
VAJKAY U.
KOSSUTH LIPÓTVÁROS WEINER LEÓ U. T E R É Z K Ö R Ú T
LAJOS JÓKAI U.
TÉR KOZMAF. U. K Á L M Á N I M R E U . LOVAG U. ARADI U.
D a n u b e Kossuth VÉRTANÚK H O N V É D U . B ÁT H O R Y U . BAJCSY-ZSILINSZK NAGYMEZŐ U. DESSEWFFY U. Ó U. Oktogon
ZICHY JENŐ U.
TERE
Lajos tér
GARIBALDI U. VADÁSH U. JÓKAI
MOZSÁR U.
TÉR
J. U. DESSEWFFY U. TERÉZVÁROS
ZOLTÁN U. N Á D O R U . NAGYSÁNDOR Y ÚT
KISS E.
V U. HOLD U. ZICHY JENŐ U. HAJÓS U.
STEINDL I. SZABADSÁG
TÉR
B A N K U . PODMANICZKY
TÉR Opera
SZÉCHENYI U. Arany J. u. Ó U.
A R A N Y J Á N O S U . HERCEGPRÍMÁS LÁZÁR U.
A K A D É M I A U .
U.
TÜKÖRY
RÉVAY U.
SZÉCHENYI RAKPART
VIGYÁZÓ F .U. NÁDOR U. SAS U. A N D R Á S S Y Ú T
SZENT
ISTVÁN
Z R ÍNY I U. TÉR
SZÉCHENYI
ISTVÁN
OKTÓBER 6 U.
TÉR Bajcsy-Zs. út
MÉRLEG U. 5 •26 0 metres 500
J Ó Z S E F AT T I L A U . 0 yards 500
The ornately decorated Chamber of Congress
in Hungary’s Parliament For keys to symbols see back flap
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110  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Kossuth Square

This square expresses well the pomp and 2 . Museum of Ethnography
pride with which Pest was developed during Among 250,000 exhibits amassed
in the museum’s collection is a
the 19th and early 20th centuries. Parliament captivating collection of folk
dominates the square on the Danube side, costumes representing the
but equally imposing are the Ministry various nationalities and
of Agriculture and the Museum of ethnic groups in Hungary.
Ethnography on the opposite side. Several
monuments commemorate nationalist
leaders and provide a visual record of
Hungary’s political history.


1 . Parliament B A
This building has L
A
become the recog­ S
nized symbol of S I S Z A L A Y U
democracy in B
Hungary, despite the Á
dome being crowned L I
by a red star during N T
the Communist
U
period. Anchored in
the Danube in front
of the building is
SMS Leitha, a warship
originally launched
in 1871, that has been
restored and is now
a floating museum.
Attila József was a radical L A K O
poet whose work sensi­ J S
tively explored the human O S S U
condition. In 1937 he T T
committed suicide, É H
aged 32. This statue R
by László Marton
dates from 1980.









Lajos Kossuth (1802–94) G A R I B A L D I U T C A
The popularity of Lajos Kossuth among
the Hungarian people is immense. He led
the 1848–9 uprising against Austrian rule
(see pp32–3), and was one of the most
outstanding political figures in Hungary.
He was a member of the first democratic
government during the uprising, and briefly
became its leader before being ex iled after Shoes on the Danube
the revolt was quashed in 1849. Bank, a memorial
honouring the Jews
Stained-glass window depicting Lajos Kossuth shot into the river
during World War II




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AROUND P ARLIA MENT  111

Ferenc II Rákóczi, the prince of
Transylvania, led one of the earliest
revolts for independence against
the Habsburgs in 1703–11. This
bronze equestrian monument can
AROUND
be seen in front of Parliament. PARLIAMENT
It was completed by János
Pásztor in 1937.
CENTRAL
PEST
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 2 & 10






S Z A L A Y U



3 Ministry of Agriculture
A massive Corinthian colonnade,
supporting an entablature, lends this Neo-
Classical building a dignified character.
This monument to
Imre Nagy symbolizes
the insurgent prime
minister’s 1956 defect ion
from the side of
Communism to the side
of the people – a protest
L
K
A
O
that cost him his life.
J
S
O
S
S
U
T
T
É
H
R
V E C S E Y U T C A
G A R I B A L D I U T C A historic landmark. This building,
The Exchange Palace is a
designed in the Late Eclectic style
by Ignác Alpár, was constructed
in 1905 and it origi nally housed
the Stock Exchange.
0 metres 150
0 yards 150
Plaque commemorating Brigadier Key
Woroniecki, hero of the uprising Suggested route
of 1848–9



110-111_EW_Budapest.indd 111 15/09/16 10:30 am

112  B ud AP e S t A re A B y A re A

1 Parliament
Országház

Hungary’s Parliament is the country’s
largest building and has become a symbol
of Budapest. A competition was held to
choose its design, the winner being Imre
Steindl’s rich Neo-Gothic masterpiece built
between 1885–1902. Based on the Houses
of Parliament in London, com pleted by Exterior
Charles Barry in 1835–6, it is 268 m The magnificent dome marks the central point
of the Parliament building. Although the façade
(880 ft) long and 96 m (315 ft) high, and is elaborately Neo-Gothic, the ground plan follows
comprises 691 rooms. Baroque conventions.

. Domed Hall
Adorning the massive pillars that
support Parliament’s central dome
are figures of some of the rulers
of Hungary.














. Deputy Council
Chamber
Formerly the lower house,
this hall is now where the
National Assembly
convenes. Two paintings
by Zsigmond Vajda hang on
either side of the Speaker’s
lectern. These were
especially commissioned
for the building.








Gables
Almost every corner of the Parliament
building features gables with pinnacles
based on Gothic sculptures.

Lobby
Lobbies, the venues for political discus sions,
are to be found along the corri dors beneath
stained-glass windows.




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around p arlia ment  113

Dome
The ceiling of the 96-m VISITORS’ CHECKlIST
(315-ft) high dome is
covered in an intricate Practical Information
design of Neo-Gothic Kossuth Lajos tér. Map 2 D3 (9 C1).
gilding combined with Tel (06 1) 441 49 04. 8 English
heraldic decoration. 10am, noon, 1pm, 2pm, 3pm.
Limited tickets available on door;
book tickets in advance online.
& half-price adm with EU
passport. 7 ∑ parlament.hu
Transport
@ 70, 78. v 2. q Kossuth tér.









Gobelin Hall
This hall is deco-
rated with a Gobelin
tapestry illustrating
Prince Árpád, with
seven Magyar leaders
under his command,
signing a peace treaty
and blood oath.














Old Upper House Hall
International conferences are
now held in the Old Upper
House Hall. It is virtually a
mirror image of the National
Assembly Hall.
The main
entrance on
Kossuth Lajos tér
KEY
1 South wing
Main Staircase
2 Danube façade The best contemporary artists
3 North wing were invited to decorate the
4 The Royal Insignia, excluding interior. The sumptuous main
the Coronation Mantle (see p136), are staircase features ceiling
kept in the Domed Hall. frescoes by Károly Lotz and
sculptures by György Kiss.




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114  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


centuries. A map from 1909 The two sculptures in front
shows the settlement of the of the building are by Árpád
various communities who came Somogyi. The Reaper Lad dates
to Hungary. Ethnic items relating from 1956 and the Female
to these com munities, as well as Agronomist from 1954.
aboriginal objects from North The bullets on the wall of the
and South America, Africa, Asia Ministry of Agriculture building
and Australia, can also be seen are a memorial to the civilian
through the programme of victims of the shooting at
temporary exhibitions. Kossuth tér on 25 October
The museum’s permanent 1956, when a peaceful
exhibition presents the demonstration during the
Traditional Culture of the revolution turned violent.
Hungarian Nation.
4 Liberty Square
The magnificent façade of the Museum 3 Ministry of Szabadság Tér
of Ethnography Agriculture
Map 2 E4 (10 D1). q Kossuth Lajos
2 Museum of Földművelésügyi Minisztérium tér, Arany János utca.
Ethnography Kossuth Lajos tér 11. Map 2 D3 (9 C1). After the enormous Neuge
v 2. q Kossuth Lajos tér.
Néprajzi Múzeum bäude Barracks were demolished
On the southeast side of in 1886, Liberty Square was laid
Kossuth Lajos tér 12. Map 2 D3 (9 C1).
Tel (06 1) 473 24 00. v 2. q Kossuth Kossuth Square is this huge out in its place. The barracks,
Lajos tér. Closed for renovation. & building, bordered by streets built for the Austrian troops,
8 - ∑ neprajz.hu on all its four sides. It was built once dominated the southern
for the Ministry of Agriculture part of Lipótváros (Leopold
This building, designed by by Gyula Bukovics at the end Town). It was here that
Alajos Hauszmann and con­ of the 19th century. Hungary’s first independent
structed between 1893 and The façade is designed in prime minister, Count Lajos
1896, was built as the Palace of a manner typical of late Batthyány was executed on
Justice and, until 1945, served Historicism, drawing heavily 6 October 1849. Since 1926,
as the Supreme Court. on Neo­Classical motifs. The an eternal flame (see p33) has
The building’s design links columns of the colonnade are been burning at the corner of
elements of Renaissance, echoed in the fenestration Aulich utca, Hold utca and
Baroque and Classicism. above the well­proportioned Báthory utca to honour all those
The façade is dominated by a pedimented windows. executed during the uprising.
vast portico crowned by two On the wall to the right of the Two particularly impressive
tow ers. It also features a gable building two commemo rative buildings by Ignác Alpár are
topped by the figure of the plaques can be seen. The first is on opposite sides of the square.
Roman goddess of justice in a dedicated to the commanding The Exchange Palace, which was
chariot drawn by three horses, officer of the Polish Legion, who the former home of the Stock
by Károly Senyei. The grand was also a hero of the 1848–9 Exchange, dates from 1905 and
hall inside the main entrance uprising (see p32–3). Brigadier M shows the influence of the
features a marvellous staircase Woroniecki, who was renown ed Secession style. The Hungarian
and frescoes by Károly Lotz. for his bravery, was shot here by National Bank (Magyar Nem zeti
The building was first used the Austrians in 1849. The second Bank) is decorated in a pastiche
as a museum in 1957, housing plaque honours Endre Ságvári, of Historicist styles and also dates
the Hungarian National Gallery a Hungarian hero of the from 1905. An obelisk by Károly
(see pp78–81), which was later resistance, who died in 1944. Antal stands at the northern end
transferred to the Royal Palace.
The Museum of Ethnography
has been here since 1973.
The museum’s collection
was established in 1872 in the
De partment of Ethnography
at the Hungarian National
Museum (see pp134–7).
There are now around 240,000
exhibits, although most are
not on display. The collection
includes artifacts reflecting the
rural folk culture of Hungary
between the 18th and 20th Bas-reliefs on the former Stock Exchange




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AROUND P ARLIA MENT  115


tendrils and icons taken from
nature. The bees climbing up
the gable walls represent the
bank’s activity and the pinna cles,
which look like hives, re present
the accumulation of savings.
These features were intended
to help make the function of
the building accessible to the
people who banked here.
The building is not officially
open to the public, but it is
possible to see the Cashiers’ Hall
during office hours.
6 Central European
University
Közép-Európai Egyetem
Nádor utca 9. Map 2 E5 (10 D2).
Tel (06 1) 327 30 00. q Kossuth Lajos
tér. ∑ ceu.hu
This Neo-Classical palace on
Nádor utca, in the direction of
Széchenyi Square, was built in
1826 by Mihály Pollack for
Beautiful Secession interior of the Post Office Savings Bank Prince Antal Festetics. Since
1993 it has housed the Central
of the square commem orating Approaching the Post Office European University (CEU).
the Red Army soldiers who died Savings Bank, one can see Founded by financier and
during the siege of Budapest in glimpses of the details that philanthropist George Soros,
1944–5. A second statue is to the have made this building one of who was born in Budapest,
US general Harry Hill Bandholtz. Pest’s most unusual sights. The CEU is a global institution of
He led the allied forces that construction methods, interior graduate education in the social
thwarted the Romanian troops design and exterior detailing sciences, the humanities, law,
looting the Hungarian National of the building are remarkable. management, environmental
Museum. Also on the square is Lechner commis sioned the tiles studies, government and public
the Ronald Reagan Statue by used in the design, including policy, with students from over
István Máté, which was errected the vibrant roof tiles, from the 100 countries, and a faculty
on the day of the former US Zsolnay factory (see p58). The drawn from major universities
president’s 100th birthday to façades are decorated with floral across the world.
honour the important role the
Reagan administration played in
the collapse of Communism. The American Embassy
This beautiful house, at No. 12 Liberty
Square, was designed by Aladár
5 Post Office Kálmán and Gyula Ullmann and built
Savings Bank between 1899–1901. The façade is
decorated with bas-reliefs featuring
Postatakarék Pénztár motifs typical of the Secession style.
Hold utca 4. Map 2 E4 (10 D1). By the entrance to the embassy
q Kossuth Lajos tér. is a plaque with an image of the
Catholic Primate, Cardinal Joseph Plaque commemorating
A masterpiece by Ödön Mindszenty, who was part of the Joseph Mindszenty
Lechner, the former Post Office movement seeking to liberate
Savings Bank was built between Hungary from the Communists after World War II. He was
1900–1901. Chiefly a Secession imprisoned by the regime in 1949 and was mistreated for
architect, Lechner (see p58) many years. Released during the 1956 uprising, he asked for
combined the curvi linear motifs political asylum in the embassy. He lived here for 15 years
of that style with motifs from in internal exile until, in 1971, the Vatican finally convinced
Hungarian folk art to produce a him to leave Hungary.
unique visual style for his work.




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116  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Széchenyi István Square

In 1867, a cermonial mound was made of earth from all over
the country to celebrate the coronation of Franz Joseph as king
of Hungary. At the head of the Chain Bridge on the eastern
bank of the Danube, it features many of Pest’s most beautiful
buildings, such as the Hungarian Academy of Sciences and
Gresham Palace. The square was named after American
president Franklin D Roosevelt from 1947 until 2011, when
it was renamed after the 19th-century political and social
reformer István Széchenyi (1791–1860).
No. 1 Akadémia utca was
built in the Neo-Classical
style by Mátyás Zitterbarth
the younger, in 1835.
A plaque shows that in
November 1848 General
József Bem (see p105) stayed 8 . Gresham Palace
here when it was the Prince One of the most expressive
Stephen Hotel. examples of Secession archi-
tecture in Budapest, now a Four
Seasons hotel.





House designed
by József Hild
in 1836

Z R I N Y I U T C A

N Á D O R U T C A
9 . Hungarian Academy
of Sciences
The debating hall of the Hun garian A K A D É M I A U T C A
Academy of Sciences is decorated
with sculp tures by Miklós Izsó and
ceiling paintings by Károly Lotz.








The Chain Bridge S Z É C H E N Y I
I S T V Á N
T É R
(see p66) was built
between 1839–49
and was the city’s
first permanent river
crossing. It was
destroyed by the
German forces in
World War II and was
reopened in 1949,
100 years after it
was first finished.


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AROUND P ARLIA MENT  117

The Pichler House is an unusual
building. It was completed by Ferenc
Wieser between 1853–7 in the style
of a Venetian Gothic palace.
AROUND
PARLIAMENT
CENTRAL
PEST
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 2 & 10
0 . St Stephen’s Basilica
The interior of this church
was decorated by leading
Hungarian artists, such as
Alajos Stróbl and Károly
Lotz. It was seriously
damaged in World
War II, and renovation
began in the 1980s.





H E R C E G P R í M Á S U
SZENT
ISTV Á N
TÉR
S A S U T C A



Z R I N Y I U T C A O C T ó B E









No. 7 Nádor utca is a Neo-
Classical building completed in
R 6 U T C A
1830. It has a modest but well-
balanced façade accented
by pilasters with decorative
capitals, and the large first-floor
windows are crowned with
elegant arches.


0 metres 100
No. 8 József Attila utca, an 0 yards 100
impressive five-floor office
building, was erected in 1898 by
Key Artúr Meinig. It is an attractive
example of the use of the
Suggested route Secession style (see pp56–9).




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118  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


8 Gresham Palace re garded as one of the most
Gresham Palota splendid examples of design
from the Secession era. Inside
Széchenyi István tér 5–7. Map 2 D5
(9 C3). Tel (06 1) 268 60 00. the building, the second floor
@ 105, 116. v 2. ∑ fourseasons. of the Kossuth stairway has a
com/budapest stained­glass window by Miksa
Róth, featuring a portrait of
This Secession palace aroused Lajos Kossuth (see p110).
both controversy and praise In 2004 the palace opened as
from the moment it was built. a Four Seasons Hotel, the second
One of Budapest’s most dis­ in Central Europe, and the first in
tinctive pieces of architecture, Hungary. Visitors can wander in
it was commissioned by the and admire its many splendours.
London­based Gresham Life
Assurance Company from
Zsigmond Quittner and the
Monument to Ferenc Deák in Széchenyi brothers József and László Vágó,
István Square and completed in 1907.
This enormous edifice enjoys
7 Széchenyi István an imposing location directly
Square opposite the Chain Bridge. The
Széchenyi István Tér façade features char acteristic
Secession motifs (see pp56–9),
Map 2 D5 (9 C3). @ 105, 116. v 2.
such as curvi linear forms and
Previously, Széchenyi István organic themes. The ornately
Square was known by several carved window surrounds
differ ent names – Franz Joseph appear as though they are
Square, Unloading Square and projecting from the walls,
Roosevelt Square among others blending seamlessly with the
– but it received its current title architec ture. The bust by Ede
in 2010, named after the leading Telcs, at the top of the façade,
social and political reformer. is of Sir Thomas Gresham. He
It is located at the head of was the founder of the Royal Miklós Izsó’s sculptures inside the
the Pest side of the Chain Exchange in London and of Hungarian Academy of Sciences
Bridge, and is home to many Gresham’s Law: “bad money
important buildings. drives out good”. 9 Hungarian
At the beginning of the 20th On the ground floor of the Academy of
century the square was lined palace there is a T­shaped Sciences
with various hotels, the Diana arcade, covered by a multi­ Magyar Tudományos Akadémia
Baths and the Lloyd Palace. The coloured glazed roof. The
only building from the pre vious entrance to the arcade is Széchenyi István tér 9. Map 2 D4 (9
century still standing today is marked by a beautiful wrought­ C2). Tel (06 1) 411 61 00. @ 16, 105,
116. v 2. Open 9am–4pm Mon–Fri.
the Hungarian Academy of iron gate with peacock motifs. 8 by appointment. ∑ mta.hu
Sciences. The other buildings Still the original gate, it is widely
were demo lished and replaced Built between 1862–4, this
by the Gresham Palace and the Neo­Renaissance building was
Bank of Hungary, on the corner designed by the architect
of Attila József utca. Two large Friedrich August Stüler.
modern hotels, the Sofitel The statues adorning the
Budapest Chain Bridge (see façade represent six disciplines
p188) and the Inter­Continental of knowledge – law, history,
Budapest, stand on the south ern mathematics, sciences, philos­
side of the square. ophy and linguistics – and are
There is a statue to Baron the works of Emil Wolf and
József Eötvös (1813–71) a Miklós Izsó. On the Danube
re former of public education, in side are allegories of poetry,
front of the Inter­Continental. astronomy and archeology, and
In the centre of the square there on the corners of the building
are monuments to Count István are statues of renowned think ers
Széchenyi, and Ferenc Deák, including Newton, Des cartes
who was in strumental in and Révay. Inside are more
the Compromise of 1867, statues and the library, which
which resulted in the Dual Bust of Sir Thomas Gresham on the façade has a priceless collection of
Monachy (see p34). of the Gresham Palace academic books.




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r Budapest
Operetta Theatre
Budapesti Operett Színház
Nagymező utca 17. Map 2 F4 (10 F1).
Tel (06 1) 472 20 30 or 312 48 66 (box
office). v 4, 6. q Oktogon, Opera.
∑ operettszinhaz.hu
Budapest has a good reputation
for musical entertainment, and
its operetta scene (see p216) is
over 100 years old. Operettas
were first staged on this site in
The Neo-Renaissance façade of the Drechsler Palace the Orfeum Theatre, designed
in the Neo-Baroque style by the
0 St Stephen’s the Turks in the 16th century, Viennese architects Fellner and
Basilica was added to the façade at Helmer, in 1898. The project
this time. was financed by the impres sario
See pp120–21. In 1978 the hotel was taken Károly Singer-Somossy.
over by the Radisson group, In 1922, the American
q Hungarian State which restored the rich inter iors. entrepreneur Ben Blumenthal
Opera Notable features are the redeveloped the building and
opened the Capital Operetta
stained-glass windows in the
See pp122–3. Szondi Restaurant, by Jenő Theatre, which then specialized
Haranghy, illustrating the works in the genre. After 1936, this
of Richard Wagner. The Romeo theatre became the only venue
w Drechsler Palace and Juliet conference room for operetta in Budapest.
Drechsler Palota and the Shakespeare Res taurant The repertoire of the theatre
are named after the murals includes the works of both
Andrássy út 25. Map 2 F4 (10 E2). that decorate them. The café international and Hungarian
q Opera. serves cake and coffee on composers of this genre,
porcelain from the Pécs factory in cluding Imre Kálmán, Ferenc
Formerly the State Ballet (see p58). Lehár and Pál Ábrahám.
Institute, the Drechsler Palace
was originally built as Neo-
Renaissance apartments for
the Hungarian Railways Pension
Fund in 1883. It was designed
by Gyula Pártos and Ödön
Lechner to harmonize with the
façade of the Hungarian State
Opera (see pp122–3).
Its name derives from the
Drechsler Café, which occupied
the ground floor in the 1890s
and early 1900s.
e Radisson Blu
Béke Hotel,
Budapest
Radisson Blu Béke Hotel, Budapest
Teréz körút 43. Map 2 F3.
Tel (06 1) 889 39 00. v 4, 6.
q Oktogon. ∑ radissonblu.com
This elegant hotel was built
in 1896 as an apartment
building, and in 1912 was
restyled by Béla Málnai as the
Hotel Britannia. A mosaic of
György Szondi, a Hungarian
captain who fought against Entrance to the Budapest Operetta Theatre on Nagymező utca




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120  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

0 St Stephen’s Basilica
Szent István Bazilika

Dedicated to St Stephen, or István, the first Hungarian
Christian king (see p24), this church was designed by József
Hild in the Classical style, using a Greek cross floor plan.
Construction began in 1851 and was taken over in 1867
by Miklós Ybl (see p123), who added the Neo-Renaissance
dome after the original one collapsed in 1868. József Kauser
completed the church in 1905. It received the title of Basilica
Minor in 1931, the 900th anniversary of St Emeric’s death.


St Matthew
St Matthew is one of
the four Evangelists
represented in the niches Dome
on the exterior of the Reaching 96 m (315 ft),
dome. They are all the the dome is visible
work of the sculptor from all over Budapest.
Leó Feszler.













Tower
A bell, weighing 9,250 kg
(9.25 tons) is housed in this
tower. It was funded by
German Catholics to
com pensate for the
original bell, which
was looted by the
Nazis in 1944.















Main Portal
The oak wood door is
decorated with carvings
depicting the heads of
the 12 Apostles.




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AROUND P ARLIA MENT  121


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Szent István tér. Map 2 E4 (10 D2).
Tel (06 1) 338 21 51. Treasury:
Open 9am–5pm Mon–Fri (to 1pm
Sat), 1–5pm Sun. & 8 10am–
3pm Mon–Sat (book in advance).
7 ∑ en.bazilika.biz
Mosaics Transport
The dome is decorated q Deák Ferenc tér.
with mosaics designed by
Károly Lotz. Other mosaics
designed by Gyula Benczúr
feature in the sanctuary. . Main Altar
In the centre of the altar there is a
marble statue of St István by Alajos
Stróbl. Scenes from the king’s life
are depicted behind the altar.



. Holy Right Hand
Hungary’s most unusual relic is
the mummified forearm of King
István. It is kept in the Chapel of
the Holy Right Hand.










St Gellért and
St Emeric
This portrayal of St
Gellért and his pupil,
St Emeric, son of
St István, is the work
of Alajos Stróbl.









KEY
1 Observation point
. Painting by 2 The basilica’s lookout terrace
Gyula Benczúr (accessed by 304 steps or an
This image shows King elevator) offers a beautiful panoramic
István, left without an heir, view of the city.
dedicating Hungary to 3 Figures of the 12 Apostles,
the Virgin Mary, who by Leó Feszler, crown the exterior
became Patrona Hungariae, colonnade at the back of the church.
the country’s patron.




120-121_EW_Budapest.indd 121 15/09/16 10:30 am

122  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

q Hungarian State Opera
Magyar Állami Operaház

Opened in September 1884, the Hungarian
State Opera in Budapest was built to rival
those of Paris, Vienna and Dresden. Its
beautiful architecture and inter iors were
the life’s work of the great Hungarian
archi tect, Miklós Ybl. The interior also
features ornamentation by Hungarian
artists, includ ing Alajos Stróbl and Károly
Lotz. During its lifetime the Hungarian
State Opera has seen some influential
music directors, including Ferenc Erkel, Façade
The decoration of the symmetrical façade follows a
composer of the Hungarian opera Bánk musical theme. In niches on either side of the main
Bán, Gustav Mahler and Otto Klemperer. entrance there are figures of two of Hungary’s most
prominent com posers, Ferenc Erkel and Franz Liszt
(see p148). Both were sculpted by Alajos Stróbl.



Murals
The vaulted ceiling of
the foyer is covered in
magnificent murals by
Bertalan Székely and
Mór Than. They depict
the nine Muses.
. Foyer
The foyer, with its marble
columns, gilded vaulted
ceiling, murals and
chandeliers, gives the
opera house a feeling of
opulence and grandeur.







Main entrance
Wrought-iron lamps
illuminate the wide
stone staircase and
the main entrance.


. Main Staircase
Going to the opera was a
great social occasion in
the 19th century. A vast,
sweeping staircase was an
important element of the
opera house as it allowed
ladies to show off their
new gowns.




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around p arlia ment  123

Chandelier
The main hall is decorated with ViSiToRS’ CheCkliST
a bronze chandelier that weighs
over 2,000 kg (2 tons). It illumi- Practical Information
nates a fresco, by Károly Lotz, Andrássy út 22. Map 2 F4 (10 E2).
of the Greek gods on Olympus. Tel (06 1) 332 81 97 or 353 01 70
(box office). & ^ during
performances. 7 = 8 3pm &
4pm. ∑ opera.hu; operavisit.hu
Transport
q Opera.













Central Stage
This proscenium arch stage employed
the most modern technology of the
time. It featured a revolving stage
and metal hydraulic machinery.












The side entrance has
a loggia that reflects
the design of the
main entrance.


. Royal Box
The royal box is located
Miklós Ybl (1814–91) centrally in the three-storey
circle. It is decorated with
The most prominent Hungarian architect of the sculptures symbolizing the
second half of the 19th century, Miklós Ybl had four operatic voices – soprano,
an enormous influence on the development of alto, tenor and bass.
Budapest. He was a practitioner of Historicism,
and tended to use Neo-Renaissance forms.
The Hungarian State Opera and the
dome of St Stephen’s Basilica are
examples of his work. Ybl also built
apartment buildings and palaces for
the aristocracy in this style. A statue
of the architect stands on the western
bank of the Danube, in Miklós Ybl
Square (see p99). Bust of Miklós Ybl





122-123_EW_Budapest.indd 123 05/09/2014 15:36

Oktogon
ANDRÁSSY ÚT.


Opera
KIRÁLY U. ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
ANDRÁSSY ÚT. VASVÁRY P. U. KIS DIÓFA U. CSÁNYI U. KERTÉSZ U.
PAULAY EDE U.
TÉR
Bajcsy- KAZINCZY U. KLAUZÁL
Zs.út KIRÁLY U. DOB U.
Széchenyi JÓZSEF ATTILA U. HOLLÓ U. ERZSÉBETVÁROS
The ornate façade of a building in Váci Street, a pedestrian shopping area in central Pest lánchíd EÖTVÖS ERZSÉBET
TÉR
TÉR Deák AKÁCFA U.
Ferenc tér NAGY DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U.
Blaha
Sights at a Glance Danube Vörösmarty HARMINCAD U. RUMBACH S. U. DOB U. WESSELÉNYI U. Lujza Tér
tér
LUJZA
Churches 5 Váci Street 31 Il Terzo Cerchio KÁROLY KÖRÚT SÍP U. DOHÁNY U. BLAHA
TÉR
1 Inner City Parish Church pp128–9 y Jewish Quarter 32 Kádár Étkezde DEÁK FERENC U. GERLÓCZY U.
0 Servite Church o Mihály Pollack Square 33 Kaltenberg Sörház és Étterem JANE HANING RAKPART R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T. STÁHLY U.
q Lutheran Church 34 Károlyi Étterem és Kávéház VÁCI U. VÁROSHÁZ U. VAS U. GYULAI PÁL U. SOMOGYI BÉLA U. JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
u Great Synagogue 35 Kárpátia Étterem APÁCZAI U. RÉGIPOSTA U.
i Chapel of St Roch Restaurants pp200–204 36 Két Szerecsen PETÕFI S. U. Astoria SZENTKIRÁLYI U.
s Calvinist Church 1 Araz 37 Király Cukrászda KOSSUTH L. U. PUSKIN U.
h Serbian Church 2 Astoria Kávéház 38 Klassz PESTI B. U. GUTENBERG
TÉR
k University Church 3 Auguszt Cukrászda 39 Kőleves Vendéglő SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT. MÚZEUM KÖRÚT BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér
x Franciscan Church 4 Babel Étterem 40 Komédiás Kávéház Ferenciek FERENCZY I. U.
tere
5 BARbár Café 41 Lou Lou
Museums 6 Bohémtanya 42 Macesz Bisztró DUNA U. KÁROLYI U. MAGYAR U. HORÁNSZKY U. MÁRIA U.
p Hungarian National Museum 7 Borbiróság 43 Magdalena Merlo Erzsébet VERES PÁLNÉ U.
híd
pp134–7 8 Bors GasztroBár 44 Marie Kristensen Sandwich Bar BELVÁROS MÚZEUM U. KRÚDY U.
d Museum of Applied Arts pp140–41 9 Borssó Bistro 45 Menza SZERB U.
Historic Buildings 10 Buena Vista Étterem 46 Művész Kávéház MOLNÁR U. KIRÁLYI PÁL U. KÁLVIN Kálvin BAROSS U.
TÉR
and Monuments 11 Carmel Étterem 47 Múzeum Cukrászda VÁCI U. tér
6 Klotild Palaces 12 Central kávéház 48 Múzeum Kávéház es Étterem JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
7 Pest County Hall 13 Chess 49 New York Kávéház FÕVAM VÁMHÁZ KRT ÜLLÕI ÚT
8 Municipal Council Offices 14 Comme Chez Soi 50 Nobu Fővám TÉR IX
9 Turkish Bank 15 Costes 51 Onyx tér LÓNYAY U . RÁDAY U.
w Danube Fountain 16 Cucina 52 Paris-Budapest Restaurant
e New Theatre 17 Cyrano and Bar Corvin
r Liszt Academy of Music 18 Desszert.Neked 53 Pata Negra Negyed
t New York Palace 19 Dionysos Taverna 54 La Pizza di Mamma Sophia KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
a Ervin Szabó Library 20 Drum Café 55 Sahara KÖZRAKTÁR U.
f Central Market Hall 21 Fakanál 56 Shalimar D a n u b e
g City Council Chamber 22 Fausto’s 57 Soul Café RÁDAY U.
58 Spinoza
j Loránd Eötvös University 23 Fresh Factory 59 Stradivari Restaurant LÓ N YAY U .
l Károlyi Palace 24 Frici Papa 60 Sugar! FERENC KÖRÚT
z University Library 25 Frőhlich Kóser Cukrászda 61 Trattoria Toscana
26 Fruccola
Streets and Squares 27 Fülemüle Étterem 62 VakVarjú Étterem
2 Vigadó Square 28 Gerbeaud Cukrászda 63 Vapiano
3 József Nádor Square 29 Gerlóczy Kávéház 64 Vörös Postakocsi Étterem
4 Vörösmarty Square 30 Gotti Étterem 65 W35
124-125_EW_Budapest.indd 124 21/10/2016 17:10

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  125
CENTRAL PEST


At the end of the 17th century much with shops and cafés, as well as secu lar
of Pest was in ruins and few residents and municipal build ings. Perhaps the
remained. Within the next few decades, most prominent example of this work is
how ever, new residential districts the Hungarian National Museum. At this
were established, which are today’s time Pest surpassed Buda as a centre for
mid-town suburbs. In the 19th century, trade and in dustry. This was partly due to
redevelopment schemes introduced the area’s Jewish community, who played
grand houses and apartment blocks, some an active role in its development.

Oktogon
ANDRÁSSY ÚT.


Opera
KIRÁLY U. ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
ANDRÁSSY ÚT. VASVÁRY P. U. KIS DIÓFA U. CSÁNYI U. KERTÉSZ U.
PAULAY EDE U.
TÉR
Bajcsy- KAZINCZY U. KLAUZÁL
Zs.út KIRÁLY U. DOB U.
Széchenyi JÓZSEF ATTILA U. ERZSÉBET HOLLÓ U. ERZSÉBETVÁROS
lánchíd
EÖTVÖS
TÉR TÉR Deák AKÁCFA U.
Ferenc tér NAGY DIÓFA U. KLAUZÁL U.
Vörösmarty HARMINCAD U. RUMBACH S. U. DOB U. Blaha
tér KÁROLY KÖRÚT WESSELÉNYI U. BLAHA Lujza Tér
DOHÁNY U.
LUJZA
DEÁK FERENC U. VÁROSHÁZ U. GERLÓCZY U. SÍP U. R Á K Ó C Z I Ú T. STÁHLY U. TÉR JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
Danube
RÉGIPOSTA U. PETÕFI S. U. KOSSUTH L. U. Astoria SZENTKIRÁLYI U. VAS U. GYULAI PÁL U. SOMOGYI BÉLA U.
VÁCI U.
APÁCZAI U.
JANE HANING RAKPART
PESTI B. U. MÚZEUM KÖRÚT PUSKIN U. GUTENBERG
TÉR
SZABAD SAJTÓ ÚT. tere FERENCZY I. U. BRÓDY SÁNDOR U. Rákóczi tér
Ferenciek
Erzsébet DUNA U. VERES PÁLNÉ U. KÁROLYI U. MAGYAR U. HORÁNSZKY U. MÁRIA U.
híd
BELVÁROS MÚZEUM U. KRÚDY U.
SZERB U. KÁLVIN
TÉR
Kálvin BAROSS U.
MOLNÁR U.
tér
KIRÁLYI PÁL U.
VÁCI U.
FÕVAM VÁMHÁZ KRT ÜLLÕI ÚT JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
TÉR IX
Fővám
tér LÓNYAY U . RÁDAY U.
Corvin
Negyed
KINIZSI U. KNÉZITS U.
KÖZRAKTÁR U.
D a n u b e
FERENC KÖRÚT
RÁDAY U.
LÓN YAY U .
0 metres 400
0 yards 400
See also Street Finder
maps 4, 7 & 10
For keys to symbols see back flap
124-125_EW_Budapest.indd 125 21/10/2016 17:10

126  bud apest area b y area

Street-by-Street: Around Váci Street

Váci street has been budapest’s fashionable area for walking,
meeting in cafés and shopping in elegant boutiques since the
early 19th cen tury. Its attractive promenade is an enjoyable
place for an evening stroll, when it is stylishly illuminated. Gerbeaud Cukrászda,
located opposite
Vörösmarty tér metro
station, is one of
the best and most
Vigadó concert hall, traditional patisseries
a superb example of in town. The grand
Historicist architecture interiors feature
(see p51). chandeliers and wood
panelling (see p201).

D O R O T T Y A U

V I G A D ó U

D E á K F E R E N C U V á C I U T C A










R é G I P O S T A U





4 Vörösmarty Square
A Carrara marble monument to
the poet Mihály Vörösmarty stands
in this square. It was created by
Ede Telcs and sym bolizes the
Hungarian nation united in the
poets’s words: “Your homeland,
Hungary, serve unwaveringly”.

Thonet House was built in
1888–90 by Ödön Lechner
(see p58) and Gyula Pártos.
It stands today in its original P E S T I U
form, featuring Zsolnay
ceramics from Pécs.

Péterffy Palace is Pest’s only Remains of Contra
Baroque house. It was built by Aquincum (see p23)
András Meyerhoffer in 1755 for
the magistrate, János Péterffy.
Above the gateway there is a Key
beautiful balcony supported
by atlantes. Suggested route




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centr al pest  127


0Servite Church AROUND
Holy figures adorn PARLIAMENT
the 19th-century façade
of this Baroque church.
CENTRAL
PEST
GELLÉRT
HILL AND
TABÁN
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 2, 4, 10









5. Váci Street
Budapest’s most elegant
promenade and shopping
area is lined with fashion
boutiques, cafés, fountains
and statues. Off the street
there are old courtyards
and shopping arcades.






U

I
S
Z
I
R
A
P
K I G Y ó U 6. Klotild Palaces
This beautifully decorated block
consists of two symmetrical
build ings, which together form
a magnificent gateway to the
Elizabeth Bridge.









1. Inner City
Parish Church
This white limestone and
red marble tabernacle,
Key 0 metres 50
in the church, dates from
Suggested route the early 16th century. 0 yards 50



126-127_EW_Budapest.indd 127 05/09/2014 15:36

128  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

1 Inner City Parish Church
Belvárosi Plébánia Templom

This church is the oldest building in Pest.
It was first established during the reign of
St István, the first king of Hungary (see pp24–5),
on the burial site of the martyred St Gellért.
In the 14th century, a large Gothic church
was built, which was used as a mosque
under the Turks. Damaged by the Great
Fire of 1723, the church was partly rebuilt
in the Baroque style by György Pauer in
1725–39. The interior also features Neo-
Classical elements by János Hild, as well
as some 20th-century works. The church
was reopened in 2016 after extensive
renovation work.


. Pulpit
This Neo-Gothic
pulpit is beau tifully
carved from wood.
It was produced in
1808 by Fülöp
Ungradt.










Main Portal
The late Baroque
portal is crowned
by a sculpture of the
Holy Trinity, inlaid
with gold.


KEY
1 A fragment of a wall from the
Romanesque church is visible in
the lower section of the façade.
2 The south tower includes
one of the surviving walls of the
Romanesque church.
3 Reconstructed Gothic
Nave tabernacle
The interior of the church 4 The Turkish Prayer Niche,
reflects the Gothic and or mihrab, which indicates the
Baroque periods in which direction of Mecca, is one of the
it was built. The nave, in few remnants of the Turkish
the western section of the occupation (see pp28–9).
church, is Baroque in design.




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CENTR AL PEST  129


. Fresco VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
This fragment of a
15th-century Italianate fresco
depicts the crucifixion of Practical Information
Christ. It was transferred from Március 15 tér 2. Map 4 E1
the cloister to its cur rent location (10 D5). Tel (06 1) 318 31 08.
in the choir. Open 9am–7pm daily. 5 daily.
Transport
v 2. q Ferenciek tere.















Main Altar
The original altar was destroyed in World War II, and
the current one, by Károly Antal and Pál C Molnár,
dates from 1948.














. Gothic Chapel
This vaulted chapel
is entered through
a painted archway.
It features recreated
tracery windows.




Historical Floorplan
of the Church
Nothing remains of the first church:
the oldest sections date from the
12th-century Romanesque church.
Crest of Pest Key
The crest of Pest adorns the pede stal Romanesque church
of a Renaissance tabernacle, which was
commissioned by Pest’s city council in Gothic church
1507. It is the work of a 16th-century Baroque church
Italian artist.




128-129_EW_Budapest.indd 129 15/09/16 10:33 am

130  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


Herend company (see p212).
Its fac tory has produced
world-renowned porcelain
for almost 200 years.

4 Vörösmarty
Square
Vörösmarty Tér
Map 2 E5 (10 D3). q Vörösmarty tér.
In the middle of the square
The opulent façade of the Vigadó concert hall, decorated with figures and busts of stands a monument depicting
statesmen, leaders and other prominent Hungarians the poet Mihály Vörösmarty
(1800–55). Unveiled in 1908, it is
2 Vigadó Square Habsburgs sympathetic to the work of Ede Telcs. Behind the
Vigadó Tér the Hungarian people, he was monument, on the eastern side
instrumental in the devel opment of the square, is the former Luxus
Map 4 D1 (10 D4). v 2. Tel (06 1) 328 of Buda and Pest and, in 1808, depart ment store, which
33 25. Open 10am–7pm Tue–Sun. 8
by prior arrangement. ∑ vigado.hu he initi ated the Embellishment used to be one of the rare
Commission (see p32). places in the Socialist era
The Vigadó concert hall, A statue of Archduke where you could buy
incorporating a cultural centre József, by Johann fashionable clothes.
and gallery, dominates the Halbig, stands in the On the northern
square with its mix of eclectic middle of the square. side of the square
forms. It was built by Frigyes It was erected in 1869. there is a renowned
Feszl in 1859–64 to replace a Some of the houses pâtisserie, opened
predecessor de stroyed by fire on the square are by Henrik Kugler in
during the up rising of 1848–9 worth individual 1858. It was taken
(see pp32–3). The façade includes mention. The Neo- over by the Swiss
features such as folk motifs and Classical Gross Palace patis sière Emil
busts of former monarchs, rulers at No. 1 (see p50) was built Gerbeaud, who was
and other Hungarian personali- in 1824 by József Hild. It responsible for the richly
ties. An old Hungarian coat of now houses a bank. The decorated inter ior which
arms is also visible in the centre. building at Nos. 5–6, Sculpture in survives to this day. A
The concert hall is run by the which overlooks the Vigadó Square tempting selection of
Hungarian Academy of Arts. southern end of the coffee, cakes, pastries and
The Budapest Marriott Hotel square, dates from 1859 and desserts are on offer. In summer,
(see p188), located on one side was built by Hugó Máltás. these can be taken on a terrace
of the square, was designed At No. 11 is a shop run by the overlooking the square.
by József Finta in 1969. It was
one of the first modern hotels
to be built in Budapest.
On the Danube promenade
is a statue of a childlike figure
on the railings: Little Princess
(see p69), by László Marton.
The square also has craft stalls,
cafés and restaurants.
3 József Nádor
Square
József Nádor Tér
Map 2 E5 (10 D3). @105.
q Vörösmarty tér.
Archduke József, after whom
this square is named, was
appointed as the emperor’s
Palatine for Hungary in 1796
at the age of 20. He ruled the
country for 51 years until his
death in 1847. One of the few The elegant interior of the Gerbeaud pâtisserie, on Vörösmarty Square




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CENTR AL PEST  131


at No. 16, was built in 1984. Hotel (see p187), while the
Outside the store there is a left side houses a restaurant
bronze fountain with a fig ure and a café.
of Hermes, dating from the
mid-19th century.
The Nádor Hotel once stood 7 Pest County
at No. 20 and featured a statue Hall
of Archduke Palatine József in Pest Megyei Önkormányzat
front of the entrance. Today Városház utca 7. Map 4 F1 (10 E4).
the Mercure Hotel (see p188), Tel (06 1) 233 68 00. q Ferenciek tere.
designed by József Finta and Open 8am–4:30pm Mon–Thu,
opened in 1987, stands here. 8am–2pm Fri.
In a side street off Váci Street,
at No. 13 Régiposta utca, is a Built in several stages, this is
building from the Modernist one of Pest’s most beautiful,
period. An unusual sight in monumental Neo-Classical civic
Pest, this Bauhaus-influenced buildings. It was erected during
Thonet House, decorated with Zsolnay tiles, building dates from 1937 the 19th century, as part of the
at No. 11 Váci Street and is by Lajos Kozma. plan for the city drawn up by
the Embellishment Commission.
5 Váci Street A seat of the Council of Pest
Váci Utca 6 Klotild Palaces has existed on this site since the
Map 4 E1–F2 (10 E5). Klotild Paloták end of the 17th century. By
q Ferenciek tere. Váci utca 34. Map 4 E1 (10 E5). 1811, however, the building
q Ferenciek tere. included two conference halls,
Once two separate streets, a prison and a prison chapel.
which were joined at the Flanking Szabadsajtó utca, on In 1829–32, a wing designed
beginning of the 18th century, the approach to the Elizabeth by József Hofrichter was ad ded
Váci Street still has two distinct Bridge, stand two massive on Semmelweis utca, which
characters; the northern section apart ment blocks built in 1902. was used to accom modate
is more of an elegant shopping The buildings were commis- council employees.
street with luxury stores, the sioned by the daughter-in-law In 1838 another redevelop-
southern part has more of Palatine József, Archduchess ment programme was begun,
restaurants and small shops. Klotild, after whom they this time employing designs by
Most of the buildings lining were named. Mátyás Zitterbarth Jr, a highly
the street date from the They were designed by regarded exponent of Neo-
19th and early 20th centuries. Flóris Korb and Kálmán Giergl Classical architecture.
More recently, however, in the Historicist style, with Completed in 1842, it included
modern department stores, elements of Rococo decoration. an impressive façade, which
banks and shopping arcades The Palace to the right houses overlooks Városház utca. This
have sprung up among the apartments and the Buddha Bar features a portico with six
older original buildings. Corinthian columns support ing
Philantia, a Secession style a prominent tympanum.
florist’s shop opened in 1905, Pest County Hall was de -
now occupies part of the Neo- stroyed in the course of World
Classical block at No. 9, built in War II. During post-war re -
1840 by József Hild. No. 9 also building it was enlarged, with
houses the Pesti Theatre, where the addition of three internal
classic plays by Anton Chekhov, courtyards, the first of which is
among others, are staged. The surrounded by atmospheric
building was once occupied cloisters. Due to the excellent
by the Inn of the Seven Electors, acoustics, concerts are often
which had a large ballroom- held here during the summer.
cum-concert hall. It was here Between Pest County Hall and
that a 12-year-old Franz the Municipal Council Offices
Liszt performed. building (see p132), in the small
Thonet House, at No. 11, is Kamermayer Károly tér, there is
most notable for the Zsolnay a monument to the first mayor
tiles (see p58) from Pécs, which of Budapest. Károly Kamermayer
decorate its façade. No. 13 is (1829–97) took office in 1873
the oldest building on Váci after the unification of Óbuda,
Street and was built in 1805. One of the twin Klotild Palaces, from Buda and Pest. The aluminium
In contrast, the post modern 1902, by the approach to the Elizabeth mon ument was designed in
Fontana department store Bridge (see p67) 1942 by Béla Szabados.




130-131_EW_Budapest.indd 131 15/09/16 10:33 am

132  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

8 Municipal
Council Offices
Fővárosi Önkormányzat
Városház utca 9–11. Map 4 E1 & F1 (10
E4). Tel (06 1) 327 10 00. q Ferenciek
tere. Open 8am–4:30pm Mon–Thu,
8am–12:30pm Fri. ∑ budapest.hu
The largest Baroque building
in Budapest, this edifice was
completed in 1735 to a design
by the architect Anton Erhard
Martinelli. It was originally a
hospital for veterans of the war
between the Christians and
Turks at the end of the 17th
century (see pp28–9).
In 1894 the city authorities
bought the building in order
to convert it into council
offices. Ármin Hegedűs was
commissioned to refurbish Glory to Hungary, the mosaic on the façade of the Turkish Bank
the building.
Most notable are the bas- 0 Servite Church The church’s simplicity is typical
reliefs decorating the gates on Szervita Templom of early Neo-Classicism. It also
the Városház utca side of the Szervita tér 7. Map 4 E1 (10 D4). reflects the notion of minimal
building. The scenes depicted in q Deák Ferenc tér. church decoration, which was
the bas-reliefs commemorate a upheld by this branch of
victory of Charles III (see p21) and This Baroque church was built Protestantism. Above the modest
Prince Eugene of Savoy’s role in between 1725–32 to a design main altar is a copy of Raphael’s
the war against the Turks (see p75). by János Hölbling and György Transfiguration by Franz Sales
These are thought to be the Pauer. In 1871, the fa çade was Lochbihler, made in 1811. Organ
work of the Viennese sculp tor rebuilt and the tower was recitals are held in the church.
Johann Christoph Mader. covered with a new roof, Another Neo-Classical build-
designed by József Diescher. ing by Mihály Pollack adjoins
Above the doorway there are the church. Constructed as a
9 Turkish Bank figures of St Peregrin and St Lutheran school, it is now the
Török Bankház Anne, and above them sit St National Lutheran Museum. The
Philip and St Augustine. To the museum illustrates the history
Szervita tér 3. Map 4 E1 (10 D4).
q Deák Ferenc tér. right of the entrance there is a of the Reformation in Hungary,
bas-relief by János Istók, dating and the most inter esting exhibit
Dating from 1906 and designed from 1930. It is dedi cated to the is a copy of Martin Luther’s last
by Henrik Böhm and Ármin heroes of the VIIth Wilhelm will and testament. The original
Hegedűs, the building that Hussar Regiment who gave docu ment, dating from 1542,
formerly housed the Turkish their lives in World War I. is held in the Lutheran Archives.
Bank is a wonderful example
of the Secession style.
The exterior used modern q Lutheran Church
construction methods to create Evangélikus Templom
the glass façade, which is set in Deák tér 4. Map 2 E5 (10 E3). Tel (06 1)
reinforced concrete. Above the 317 34 13. q Deák Ferenc tér.
fenestration, in the gable, is a 7 National Lutheran Museum:
magnificent colourful mo saic Tel (06 1) 483 21 50. Closed for
by Miksa Róth. Entitled Glory to renovation until early 2017; check
Hungary, it depicts Hungary website for times. & 8 by arrange-
paying homage to the Virgin ment. ∑ evangelikusmuzeum.hu
Mary, or Patrona Hungariae
(see p121). Angels and shepherds Mihály Pollack designed this
surround the Virgin, along with Neo-Classical church, built
figures of Hungarian political between 1799 –1808. A portico,
heroes, such as Prince Ferenc which features a tym panum
Rákóczi (see p30), István supported by Doric columns,
Széchenyi (see pp32–3) and was added to the façade in Neo-Classical main altar in the
Lajos Kossuth (see p110). 1856 by József Hild. Lutheran Church




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r Liszt Academy t New York Palace
of Music New York Palota
Zeneakadémia Erzsébet körút 9–11. Map 7 B2. Tel (06
Liszt Ferenc tér 8. Map 7 A1 (10 F2). 1) 886 61 11. v 4, 6. q Blaha Lujza
Tel (06 1) 321 06 90. v 4, 6 to Király tér. 0 - ∑ boscolohotels.com
utca. 8 by arrange ment.
∑ lisztacademy.hu Built between 1891–5 to a
design by the architect Alajos
The academy is housed in a Hauszmann, the building was
late Historicist palace, built initially the offices of an
between 1904–7 by Kálmán American insurance firm.
Giergl and Flóris Korb. Above This five­floor edifice displays
the main entrance there is a an eclectic mix of Neo­Baroque
The Danube Fountain, built in 1880–83 statue of Franz Liszt, by Alajos and Secession motifs. The sculp­
by Miklós Ybl Stróbl. The six bas­reliefs above tures that animate the façade
its base are by Ede Telcs, and are the work of Károly Senyei.
w Danube Fountain depict the history of music. On the ground floor is the
Danubius Kút Designed in a unique renowned New York Café
represent ation of Art Nouveau (see p204). The beautiful, richly
Erzsébet tér. Map 2 E5 (10 D3).
q Deák Ferenc tér. style, the building has regained gilded Neo­Baroque interior,
its original splendour and has with its chandeliers and marble
This fountain, which once stood been outfitted with 21st­century pillars, now attracts tourists, just
in Kálvin tér, was de signed and technology. The jewel of the as it once attracted the literary
built by Miklós Ybl (see p98) in academy is the ornate 860­seat and artistic circles in its heyday.
1880–83. It is decorated with Grand Hall, which is a world­ The Boscolo Budapest hotel
copies by Dezső Győri of original famous concert venue. The (see p187), occupies the rest
sculp tures by Béla Brestyánszky building also houses the 300­ of the building and a luxurious
and Leó Feszler, which were seat Sir George Solti Chamber spa, and a restau rant serving
damaged in World War II. Hall, where operas are staged. inter national haute cuisine.
The figure at the top of the
fountain is Danubius, repre sent­
ing the Danube. The three
female figures below symbolize
Hungary’s three principal riv ers
after the Danube: the Tisza, the
Dráva and the Száva.

e New Theatre
Új Színház
Paulay Ede utca 35. Map 2 F4 (10 E2).
Tel (06 1) 269 60 21 or 351 14 06 (box
office). q Opera. ∑ ujszinhaz.hu
Originally completed in 1909, this
building has undergone many
transformations. It was designed
by Béla Lajta in the Secession
style, and, as the home of the
cabaret troupe Parisian Mulató,
became a shrine to frivolity.
In 1921 it was completely
restyled by László Vágó, who
turned it into a theatre. After
World War II, the theatre gain ed
a glass­and­steel façade, and a
children’s theatre com pany
was based here.
Between 1988–90 the build­
ing was returned to its original
form using Lajta’s plans. Now,
gild ing, stained glass and
marble once more adorn this
unusual building. The magnificent Grand Hall at the Liszt Academy of Music




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134  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

p Hungarian National Museum
Nemzeti Múzeum

The Hungarian National Museum is the
country’s richest source of art and artifacts
relating to its own turbulent history. Founded
in 1802, the museum owes its existence to
Count Ferenc Széchényi, who offered his
collection of coins, books and documents
to the nation. The museum’s constantly Placing the Cornerstone (1864)
expanding collection of art and documents This painting by Miklós Barabás shows
is exhibited in an impressive Neo-Classical the ceremony that marked the begin ning
building built by Mihály Pollack. of construction of the Chain Bridge
(see p66) in 1842.

Campaign Chest
This carved Baroque cam paign
chest features the prince regent’s
decoration and the Hungarian crest.
It dates from the insurrection led by
Ferenc II Rákóczi (see p30).





Armchair
Adorned with multi­
coloured fruit and floral
ornamentation, this
armchair dates
from the early
18th century. It is
the work of Ferenc II
Rákóczi, who learnt
carpentry during his
exile in Turkey.









. Coronation Mantle
This textile masterpiece, made
of Byzantine silk, was donated
to the church in Székesfehérvár
by St Stephen in 1031. It became
the coronation mantle in the
12th century.
Key Museum Guide
Coronation mantle On the first floor is the coronation
mantle and the archaeological
Archaeological exhibition
exhibition. Second floor exhibits
11th–17th­Century exhibition comprise Hungarian artifacts from Main
18th–19th­Century exhibition 11th–20th centuries. The Roman entrance
20th­Century exhibition Lapidarium is found in the basement.



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CENTR AL PEST  135


VISITORS’ CHECKLIST
Practical Information
Múzeum körút 14–16. Map 7 A4
(10 F5). Tel (06 1) 338 21 22 (327
77 73 for guided tours in English).
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun.
& 8 - =
∑ mnm.hu
. Funeral Crown
This magnificent 13th-century golden crown was Transport
found in the ruins of the Dominican Church @ 9, 15. v 47, 49.
and Convent on Margaret Island in the River q Kálvin tér, Astória.
Danube (see pp176–7).

Second
floor












Pelisse
This short jacket is typical of
Hungarian national costume.
It belonged to Gábor Bethlen, a
prince of Transylvania, and dates
from around 1620.

Gothic Well
These recon structed fragments
are part of a well from the
Royal Palace at Visegrád
(see p169). The well
dates from the
14th-century rule of
the Angevin dynasty.

First
floor










. Golden Stag
This hand-forged Iron Age figure dates from
the 6th century BC. It was originally part of a
Scythian prince’s shield.




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136  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Exploring the Museum’s Collection by the American forces during
World War II, they were removed
The steps of the Hungarian National Museum were the scene and stored in Fort Knox before
of a major event in Hungary’s history. According to tradi tion, being returned to Hungary
it was from these steps that, in 1848, the poet Sándor Petőfi in 1978.
first read his National Song, which sparked the upris ing In 2000, these other treasures
against Habsburg rule (see pp32–3). This day is com memo­ of the royal insignia were trans­
ferred to the Domed Hall of
rated each year on 15 March, when the museum is decorated Parliament (see pp112–13),
in the national colours and a re­enactment is performed. where they can also be visited.
Items from the museum’s rich collection, including works of
art, hist orical documents and photographs, vividly illustrate Archaeological Exhibition
this and other events from Hungary’s fascinating past.
The archaeological display was
opened in 2002 to celebrate
the 200th anniversary of the
museum’s foundation. The
visitor is taken through a display
of Hungary’s heritage, spanning
the period between 400 BC
and AD 804, from the first
inhabitants of the country at
Vértesszölős until the end of
the Early Medieval period,
immediately preceeding the
Hungarian Conquest.
The exhibition presents some
of the latest and important
archaeological finds, and
abounds in authentic recon­
structions of the past.
11th–17th-Century
Exhibition
The exhibition begins in
Monument to poet János Arany in front of the Neo-Classical façade the Árpád era and features
one of the museum’s most
1893 and is by Alajos Stróbl. val uable exhibits, the crown
Museum Building
The notable features of the of Constantine IX Monomachus,
Built between 1837–47, interior include the magnificent decorated with enamel work.
according to a design by Mihály paintings by Mór Than and Also on display in this section
Pollack, this imposing Neo­ Károly Lotz in the main staircase. are the funeral decorations
Classical building is one of the of Béla III, Romanesque
finest manifestations of that sacred vessels, weapons
architectural epoch. Coronation Mantle and an interesting collection
The façade is preceded by One of the most important of coins and minting tools.
a monumental portico, which Hungarian treasures, the
is crowned by a tympanum coronation mantle (see pp24–5),
designed by Raffael Ponti. The is currently on display in a
composition depicts the figure separate hall of its own in the
of Pannonia (see p22) among museum. Made of Byzantine
personifications of the arts silk, it was originally donated
and sciences. to the church by St Stephen in
In the gardens surrounding 1031. The magnificent gown
the museum there are a num­ was then refashioned in the
ber of statues of prominent 13th century. The now much
figures from the spheres of faded cloth features an intricate
literature, science and art. A embroidered design of fine gold
monument to the poet János thread and pearls. Remarkably,
Arany, author of the Toldi Trilogy, the royal insignia, which includes
stands in front of the main a sceptre and golden crown,
entrance. This bronze and have survived Hungary’s Carved base of a chalice dating from
limestone work dates from dramatic history. Discovered the 15th century




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CENTR AL PEST  137


The period of Angevin rule
(see p20) coincided with the
birth of the Gothic style, which
is represented here by some
excellent examples of gold
work. The next two halls explore
the reign of Sigismund of
Luxembourg (see p26) and
the achievements of János
Hunyadi (see p26). On display
here are copies of portraits of
King Sigismund by Albrecht
Dürer and a richly decorated
ceremonial saddle. There are
also several platinum and gold
pieces, illuminated manu scripts
and documents. The lifestyle
of peasants from this era is
illustrated, as well as the history
of the royal court.
The reign of Mátyás Corvinus Printing press used in 1848 to print nationalist propaganda
(see pp26–7) and the Jagiellonian
dynasty (see p20) marks the de­ important documents and
cline of the Gothic period and 18th–19th-Century memoirs from that time.
Exhibition
the birth of the Renaissance. The central section, dedi cated
Exhibits from this era include a This part of the museum covers to the uprising of 1848–9 (see
15th­century glass goblet be­ Habsburg rule, a period of pp32–3), features a printing
longing to King Mátyás, late great civil unrest. The exhibition press on which were printed
Gothic pews from a church in begins with arti facts connected leaflets outlining the 12
Bártfa, armour and weapons, as to the Rákóczi insurrection of demands in Hungary’s fight for
well as a 16th­century dress 1703–11 (see pp30–31). Weapons, independence from Austria.
belonging to Maria Habsburg. as well as furniture from Ferenc The exhibits from the second
Magnificent exam ples of II Rákóczi’s palace, are exhibited half of the 19th century include
sculpture, art and artifacts here. One item of part­ collections of masonic items,
from the 16th and 17th icular interest is the official decorations, coins and
centuries follow. Of arm chair pro duced historic manuscripts. Items
interest are items that by Rákóczi himself. relating to the coronation of
survived the Turkish The next hall is Franz Joseph in 1867 and the
occupation (see dedicated to 18th­ Millennium Celebrations of
pp28–9), especially century Hungarian 1896 are also displayed here.
the every day objects art and culture.
and weapons. Brooch from the The following
A separate hall is 18th-century rooms portray the
dedicated to the Hungarian history of 20th-Century Exhibition
Transylvanian principality and the first half of the 19th century. Reflecting the technical
the important historical role Artworks, including magnifi cent developments of this century,
that it played. Exhibited here portraits and historic paintings, Hungary’s recent history is
are vessels and jewellery such as Placing the Cornerstone presented in a documentary
elaborately crafted in gold, of the Chain Bridge, are style. Photographs, and docu­
17th­century costumes, and assembled along with ments are widely used to
original ceramics produced by illustrate this period. Artifacts
the people of Haban, who relating to World War I and the
settled there in the early 17th era of revolution between the
century. This last section of the wars, and shocking docu ments
exhibition ends in 1686, at the from World War II can be found
time of the liberation of Buda here. The post­war history of
by the Christian armies after Hungary is depicted mainly
the Turkish occupation. In this from a political per spective.
part of the museum there are Emphasis is placed on
also portraits of influential significant episodes, such
Hungarians from the period, as the uprising of 1956 and
and an interesting exhibition the events of 1989, which
of jewellery dating from the Guild chest from the sig nalled the end of Communism
17th century. 17th century in Eastern Europe (see p37).




136-137_EW_Budapest.indd 137 15/09/16 10:33 am

138  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

y Jewish Quarter
Zsidó Negyed Holocaust Memorial
Király utca, Rumbach Sebestyén utca, This sculpture of a weeping willow, designed by Imre Varga, was
Dohány utca & Akácfa utca. Map 2 F5 unveiled in 1991 in memory of the 600,000 Hungarian Jews killed
& 7 A2 (10 F3). v 47, 49. q Deák by the Nazis in World War II. It was partly funded by the Hungarian-
Ferenc tér, Astoria. American actor Tony Curtis.
Jews first came to Hungary in
the 13th century and settled in
Buda and Óbuda. In the 19th
century, a larger Jewish
community was established
outside the Pest city boundary,
in a small area of Erzsébetváros.
In 1251, King Béla IV gave the
Jews of Buda certain privil iges,
including freedom of religion.

The Jewish comm unity 600,000 Hungarian Jews were
became well integrated into victims of the Holocaust. This
Hungarian society, until in persecution is commemorated
1941, a series of Nazi anti- by a plaque at the Orthodox
Semitic laws were passed and Synagogue on Rumbach utca.
the wearing of the Star of In the late 19th century,
David was made com pulsory. three synagogues were built
In 1944, a ghetto was created and many Jewish shops and
in Pest and the deport ation of work shops were established.
thousands of Jews to camps, Kosher establishments, such
including Auschwitz, was imp- as the butcher at No. 41
lemented. After heavy fighting Kazinczy utca, were a common
between the Russian and feature. Shops are now being
German armies, the Soviet reconstructed to recreate
Red Army liberated the ghetto the pre-ghetto char ac ter
Window of the Orthodox Synagogue on 18 January 1945. In total, of the Jewish Quarter.

u Great Synagogue established; a vast collection of has been assembled. It includes
Zsinagóga historical relics, Judaic devotional the book of Chevra Kadisha from
items and everday objects, from 1792. There is also a moving
Dohány utca 2. Map 4 F1 (10 F4). ancient Rome to the present day, Holocaust Memorial Room.
Tel (06 1) 462 04 77. q Astoria. Jewish
Museum: Open Mar–Oct: 10am–6pm
Sun–Thu, 10am–4:30pm Fri; Nov–Feb:
10am–4pm Sun–Thu, 10am–2pm Fri. A large rose window is the A Hebrew inscription from the
Closed Sat & Jewish hols. & 8 façade’s main ornamentation. second book of Moses is situated
It is located between two richly under the rose window.
This synagogue is the largest decorated towers crowned with
in Europe. It was built in a distinctive onion domes.
Byzantine-Moorish style by the
Viennese architect Ludwig
Förster between 1854–9. It has The façade is composed
three naves and, following of white and red brick and
orthodox tradition, separate intricately designed
galleries for women. Together ceramic friezes.
the naves and galleries can
accommo date up to 3,000
worshippers. Some features,
such as the position of the
reading plat form, reflect
elements of Judaic reform. The
interior has valuable decorative
fittings, particularly those on
the Ark of the Law, by Frigyes
Feszl. In 1931, a museum was




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CENTR AL PEST  139

i Chapel of St Roch
Szent Rókus Kápolna
Gyulai Pál u 2. Map 7 A3. Tel (06 1) 338
35 15. @ 7. v 4, 6. q Blaha Lujza tér.
Pest town council built this
chapel in what was then an
uninhabited area. It was dedi­
cated to St Roch and St Rosalie,
who were believed to provide
protection against the plague,
which afflicted Pest in 1711.
In 1740 the chapel was ex ­
tended to its present size, and
a tower was added in 1797.
The façade is decorated with
Baroque figures of saints,
although the originals were
replaced with copies in 1908.
Inside, on the right­hand wall
of the chapel’s nave, is a paint­ Magnificent staircase inside the Festetics Palace on Mihály Pollack Square
ing of the Virgin Mary from
1740. A painting by Jakab p Hungarian Gyula Jungfer. Also worth
Warsch, depicting the Great National Museum particular attention are the
Flood of 1838, is in the oratory. richly gilded salons on the first
See pp134–7. floor, as well as the dome above
o Mihály Pollack an oval panel of reliefs.
In 1926, the city council
Square a Ervin Szabó acquired the building and
Pollack Mihály Tér Library converted it into a public
Map 7 A4 (10 F5). q Kálvin tér. Szabó Ervin Könyvtàr lending library, whose collec­
Festetics Palace: Tel (06 1) 266 31 01. Szabó Ervin tér 1. Map 7 A4 (10 F5). tion focuses on the city itself
8 by prior arrangement. Tel (06 1) 411 50 00. q Kálvin tér. and the social sciences.
Open 10am–8pm Mon–Fri, 10am– The Ervin Szabó Library was
At the rear of the Hungarian 4pm Sat. ∑ fszek.hu named after the politician and
National Museum (see pp134–7) social reformer Ervin Szabó
is a square named after Mihály In 1887, the wealthy industrialist (1877–1918), who was the
Pollack, the architect of several Wenckheim family commis­ library’s first director. It has over
Neo­Classical buildings such sioned the architect Artur Meinig a hundred branches throughout
as the museum and Sándor to build a Neo­Baroque and Budapest and some three
Palace (see p77). Rococo style palace. The result million books.
In the late 19th century, three was the former Wenckheim
palaces were built side by side Palace, regarded as one of
on this square for the aristo­ the most beautiful palaces in s Calvinist Church
cratic elite of Hungary: Prince Budapest. The magnificent Református Templom
Festetics, Prince Eszterházy and wrought­iron gates, dating Kálvin tér 7. Map 4 F2. Tel (06 1) 217
Count Károlyi. The beautiful from 1897, are the work of 67 69. q Kálvin tér. Open 6pm Thu;
façades makes this one of the 10am, 11:30am, 6pm Sun.
city’s most captivating squares.
Miklós Ybl (see p98) built the This single nave church was
French­Renaissance style palace designed by József Hofrichter
at No. 6 for Lajos Károlyi, in and built between 1816–30.
1863–5. The façade is decorated In 1848 József Hild designed
with sculptures by Károly Schaffer. the four­pillared façade and
There is also a covered driveway tympanum, and a spire was
for carri ages. Next door, at No. 8, added in 1859. Inside the
is a small palace, which was church, the pulpit and choir
built in 1865 for the Eszterházy gallery were designed by Hild
family by Alajos Baumgarten. At in 1831 and 1854 respectively.
No. 10 is the palace built for the The stained­glass windows are
Festetics family in 1862, again the work of Miksa Róth. Sacred
by Miklós Ybl. The interior, artifacts from the 17th and
especially the Neo­Baroque Spiral staircase in one of the rooms of 18th centuries are kept in the
staircase, is splendid. the Ervin Szabó Library church treasury.




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140  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

d Museum of Applied Arts
Iparművészeti Múzeum

Opened in 1896 by Emperor Franz Joseph for the
Millennium Celebrations, this collection is housed not
within a Neo-Classical building, but in an outstanding
Secession building designed by Gyula Pártos and
Ödön Lechner (see p58). The exterior in corporated
elements inspired by the Orient as well as the Zsolnay
ceramics character istic of Lechner’s work. Damaged
in 1945 and again in 1956, the building has now
regained its original magnificence. The collection, 18th-Century Perfumer
founded in 1872, includes many examples of arts The base of this decorative
perfumer comes from Paris, the
and crafts workmanship. porcelain figure from Meissen
in Germany.










Inner Courtyard
This courtyard, covered by a glazed roof, is
sur rounded by cloisters with arcades designed
in an Indian-Oriental style.
Ground floor












Main Entrance
The walls of the entrance are
covered by Zsolnay ceramics.


Museum Guide
The museum is home to various
temporary exhibitions. Pieces from
the permanent collections, which
include furniture, textiles, precious
metals, ceramics and glassware, are
illustrated here. The major exhibitions
change each year, while the smaller
national and foreign displays change Key
monthly. The library is located on the
first floor and contains around 50,000 Library
books. The second floor houses a Temporary exhibitions
permanent exhibition on Islamic art. Permanent collections




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CENTR AL PEST  141

Renaissance Tile ViSiToRS’ CHeCkliST
This tile, which dates from
around 1530, depicts Practical Information
Queen Anne, wife of Űllői út 33–37. Map 7 B5.
Ferdinand I.
Tel (06 1) 456 51 07. open
10am–6pm Tue–Sun (closure for
renovations is planned so phone
ahead). & = - ∑ imm.hu
Transport
£ 4, 6. q Corvin-Negyed.
First floor



Seahorses
Part of the Goldsmiths’
Collection, two
trident-wielding
sea satyrs ride
seahorses in this
fanciful piece
from Germany,
circa 1590.
























Astronomical Clock
Medieval craftsmanship
distinguishes this ornate
astron omical clock from
1566, which displays the
Holics Dish relative positions
Animal and plant-shaped kitchen of the sun, moon and
ceramics in the Holics style were constellations.
manu factured in Hungary in the
mid-18th century.



Devotional Tablet
This csóktábla or “kiss tablet” was
crafted in Limoges, France, at the
beginning of the 16th century.




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142  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


f Central Market
Hall
Központi Vásárcsarnok
Vámház körút 1-3. Map 4 F3. Tel (06 1)
366 33 00. v 2, 47, 49. q Fővám tér.
Open 6am–5pm Mon, 6am–6pm
Tue–Fri, 6am–3pm Sat. Closed Sun.
Rebuilt in 1999, Budapest’s main
produce market is a great place
to find local delicacies such as
spicy kolbász salami and sheep’s
cheese. There are numerous
farmers’ stalls selling meat,
sausage, fruit, vegetables and Sausages for sale at the Central Market Hall
fish. The upper floor has a dozen
or so food booths and souvenir features cast-iron Neo-Gothic section by a partition, and the
stalls selling paprika, caviar, motifs. The Great Debating Hall division is further emphasized
Hungarian dolls, T-shirts and is decorated with mosa ics by the floor, which has been
chessboards. The basement designed by Károly Lotz. lowered by 30 cm (1 ft). The
level has a small grocery store Many antiquarian bookshops choir gallery is enclosed by an
selling imported delicacies. and galleries can be found iconostasis that divides it from
around here. Fashion able bars, the sanctuary. This iconostasis
restaurants and cafés, and dates from around 1850. The
pedestrian ization of the streets, carving is by Serb sculptor
make this a charming area. Miahai Janic; Renaissance-
influenced paint ings are by
Greek artist Károly Sterio.
h Serbian Church
Szerb Templom j Loránd Eötvös
Szerb utca 2–4. Map 4 F2 (10 E5).
q Kálvin tér, Ferenciek tere. University
Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. Eötvös Loránd Tudományegyetem
Egyetem tér 1–3. Map 4 F2 (10 E5).
Serbs settled in the now large ly q Ferenciek tere, Kálvin tér.
residential area around the Tel (06 1) 411 65 00. ∑ elte.hu
church as early as the 16th
century. The end of the 17th In 1635, Cardinal Péter Pázmány,
century brought a new wave the leader of the Counter-
of Serb immigrants, and by the Reformation, establish ed a
early 19th century Serbs com- university in Nagyszombat (now
prised almost 25 per cent of Trnava in Slovakia). It moved to
Decorative element on the façade of the Pest’s home-owners. Buda in 1777, nearly a century
City Council Chamber In 1698, the Serb commun ity af ter the end of the Turkish
replaced an earlier church on occupation (see pp28–9), during
g City Council the site with this Baroque the reign of Maria Theresa.
Chamber one. The church Emperor Joseph II
Új Városháza gained its final trans ferred the
appearance after a university to Pest,
Váci utca 62–64. Map 4 F2 (10 E5).
q Deák tér. Tel (06 1) 235 17 00. rebuilding project to the environs of
Open 8am–noon Fri. 8 compulsory that lasted until the the Pauline Church,
mid-18th century, now called the
This three-floor edifice was probably undertaken University Church.
built between 1870–75 as by András It was not until
offices for the newly unified Meyerhoffer. 1889 that the
city of Budapest (see p34). Its The interior university was
architect, Imre Steindl, was also of the church endowed with
responsible for designing is arranged Ceramic tile from the a permanent
Parliament (see pp112–13). acc ording to Greek Serbian Church home. This Neo-
The building is a mix of Orthodox practice. Baroque building,
styles. The exterior is a Neo- A section of the nave, which now the Law Faculty, was
Renaissance design in brick, is entered from the vestibule, designed by architects
with grotesques between the is reserved for women. This including Sándor Baumgarten
windows, while the interior area is divided from the men’s and Fülöp Herzog.




142-143_EW_Budapest.indd 142 15/09/16 10:33 am
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CENTR AL PEST  143


The university is named after
the noted physicist Lóránd
Eötvös (1848–1919).

k University
Church
Egyetemi Templom
(Kisboldogasszony-Templom) Tympanum adorning the façade of the University Library
Papnövelde utca 5–7. Map 4 F2 l Károlyi Palace z University Library
(10 E5). Tel (06 1) 318 05 55. q Kálvin
tér. Open 7am–6pm Mon–Sat, Károlyi Palota Egyetemi Könyvtár
8am–7:30pm Sun. Károlyi utca 16. Map 4 F2 (10 E5). Ferenciek tere 6. Map 4 F1 (10 E5).
Tel (06 1) 317 36 11. q Ferenciek Tel (06 1) 411 67 38. q Ferenciek tere.
This single-nave church is tere, Kálvin tér. Petőfi Exhibition: Open 9am–8pm Mon–Fri.
con sidered one of the most Open 10am–6pm Tue–Sun. 8 (06 1)
impressive Baroque churches 317 36 11. ∑ pim.hu This Neo-Renaissance Edifice,
in the city. It was built for by Antal Szkalniczyky and
the Pauline Order in 1725–42, In 1696 there was a small Henrik Koch, was built from
and was probably designed Baroque palace on this site, 1873–6. It is distinguished by
by András Meyerhoffer. The which was extended by András the dome on the corner tower.
tower was added in 1771. Mayerhoffer between 1759–68. The library’s two million works
The Pauline Order, founded Subsequent rebuilding, which include 11 Corviniani (see p76)
in 1263 by Canon Euzsbius, gave the palace a Neo-Classical and 160 medieval manuscripts
was the only religious order appearance, was undertaken and miniatures. The reading
to be founded in Hungary. between 1832–41 by Anton room has sgraffiti by Mór Than
The magnificent exterior Riegl. It is named after Mihály and frescoes by Károly Lotz.
features a tympanum and a Károlyi, leader of the 1918–19
row of pilasters that divide the Hungarian Republic (see p36),
façade. Figures of St Paul and who was born here in 1875. x Franciscan
St Anthony flank the emblem The palace now houses the Church
of the Pauline Order, which Hungarian Museum of Literat- Belvárosi Ferences Templom
crowns the exterior. The ure and the Petőfi Exhibition, Ferenciek tere 9. Map 4 F1 (10 E4).
carved-wood interior of the dedicated to the poet Sándor Tel (06 1) 317 33 22. q Ferenciek tere.
main vestibule is also worth Petőfi (see p33). Other poets Open 7am–noon, 4–8pm daily.
particular mention. remembered are Atilla József,
Inside the church a row of Endre Ady and Mór Jókai. A Franciscan church and
side chapels stand behind monastery have stood on this
un usual marble pilasters. site, beyond the old city walls,
In 1776 Johann Bergl painted since the 13th century. In 1541
the vaulted ceiling with the Turks rebuilt the church
frescoes depicting as the Mosque of Sinan, but
scenes from the life of after the liberation (see pp28–9)
Mary. Sadly, these the monks re gained the
frescoes are now building. Between 1727–43
in poor condition. they remodelled the church
The main altar in the Baroque style, which it
dates from 1746, and the still retains today.
carved statues behind it are The façade features a mag-
the work of József Hebenstreit. nificent portal incorporating
Above it, a copy of the sculptures of Franciscan saints,
painting The Black Madonna and the Franciscan emblem
of Czestochowa, is thought crowned by a figure of Mary
to date from 1720. Much of being adored by angels.
the Baroque interior detail The interior of the church is
of the church is the decorated with frescoes, dating
work of the Pauline from 1894–5, by Károly Lotz
monks, such as the and paintings by Viktor Tardos
balustrade of the organ Krenner, from 1925–6. The jewel
loft and the carved pulpit of this church is the Baroque
on the right. main altar with sculp tures that
date from 1741 and 1851. The
Sculptures decorating the pulpit in side altars and the pulpit date
the University Church from 1851–2.




142-143_EW_Budapest.indd 143 15/09/16 10:33 am

VÁGÁNY U. VARANNÓ
U.
ÁLLATKERTI KÖRÚT
KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY HUNGÁRIA KÖ
Széchenyi
fürdő
HOSÖK H E R M I N A Ú T
TERE
DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
MIMÓZA RÚT
ANDRÁSSY ÚT Hosök
Városliget
tere
Bajza utca XIV
HERMINA ÚT
Kodály BENCZÚR U. JÁVOR U.
körönd VÁROSLIGETI FASOR DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT A J T Ó S I D Ü R E R S O R
ANDRÁSSY ÚT ERDŐSOR DAMJANICH U. ABONYI U. TH Ö KÖLY ÚT
STEFÁNIA ÚT
ZICHY GÉZA U.
FELSŐ
Vörösmarty SZÍV U. BAJZA U.
utca RÓZSA U. HERNÁD U. SZABÓ J.
MAREK JÓZSEF U.
VII DEMBINSZKY U. CHÁZÁR ANDRÁS U.
U.
MURÁNYI U.
K I R Á LY U . DOB U.
U. JÓSIKA U. BETHLEN GÁBOR U. NEFELEJCS U. ISTVÁN ÚT CSERHÁT U. SAJÓ U.
Oktogon EÖTVÖS U.
CSENGERY
HEVESI S.
TÉR ALPÁR U.
BETHLEN
GÁBOR PÉTERFY SÁNDOR U.
TÉR
DOB U. ROTTENBILLER U. GARAY U. JOBBÁGY U.
RÓZSA U.
WESSELÉNYI U. ALMÁSSY U. DOHÁNY U. T H Ö K Ö LY Ú T
VÖRÖSMARTY U.
IZABELLA U.
CSENGERY U.
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
Keleti
MUNKÁS U.
KEREPESI
ALSÓ U.
ÚT
RÁKÓCZI ÚT FIUMEI ÚT Pályaudvar
HÁRSFA U.
Blaha L. BEZERÉDJ U. BERZSENYI D. U.
JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
tér KISS JÓZSEF U.
II. JÁNOS PÁL
PÁPA TÉR DOLOGHÁZ U.
LUTHER U.
NÉPSZÍNHÁZ U.
Il. János Pál
pápa tér
144-145_EW_Budapest.indd 144 15/09/16 10:30 am

BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA  145

AROUND VÁROSLIGET

Városliget, or City Park, was once an area chosen as the focus of the Millennium
of marshland, which served as a royal Celebrations in 1896 (see p146), which
hunting ground. Leopold I gave the land marked the 1,000-year anniversary of
to the town of Pest, but it was in the mid- the conquest of the Carpathian basin
18th century, under Maria Theresa, that by the Magyars. A massive building
the area was drained and planted. Today’s programme was undertaken, which
park was designed towards the end of the included the Museum of Fine Arts,
19th century in the English style, which Vajdahunyad Castle and the impressive
was the fashion of the day. Városliget was monument in Heroes’ Square.
Sights at a Glance
Museums Restaurants pp204–5 10 Napfényes Étterem
1 House of Terror Museum 1 Bagolyvár Étterem 11 Olimpia Étterem
2 Franz Liszt Museum 2 Bock Bisztró 12 Paprika Vendéglő
4 Kodály Memorial Museum 3 Ecocafe 13 La Perle Noire
6 Postal Museum 4 Grundel Étterem 14 Platán Étterem
7 Millennium Underground 5 Haxen Király Étterem 15 Rákóczi Grillház
Railway & Museum 6 Himalaya Nepáli Étterem 16 Regős Vendéglő
9 Műcsarnok Art Gallery 7 Kogart Étterem 17 Robinson
0 Museum of Fine Arts pp150–51 8 Millennium da Pippo 18 Széchenyi Kertvendéglő
9 Montenegrói Gurman 19 Zeller Bistro
Parks and Zoos
w Zoo
Streets and Monuments
5 Városligeti Avenue VÁGÁNY U. VARANNÓ 0 metres 400
8 Millennium Monument U.
ÁLLATKERTI KÖRÚT
r Hermina Street 0 yards 400
Historic Buildings Széchenyi
fürdő
3 University of Fine Art KÓS KÁROLY SÉTÁNY HUNGÁRIA KÖ
q Vajdahunyad Castle DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT
e Széchenyi Baths HOSÖK H E R M I N A Ú T
t Erkel Theatre TERE
MIMÓZA RÚT
ANDRÁSSY ÚT Hosök
Városliget
tere
Bajza utca XIV
HERMINA ÚT
Kodály
körönd BENCZÚR U. VÁROSLIGETI FASOR DÓZSA GYÖRGY ÚT A J T Ó S I D Ü R E R S O R STEFÁNIA ÚT
JÁVOR U.
ANDRÁSSY ÚT ERDŐSOR DAMJANICH U. ABONYI U. THÖK ÖLY ÚT
ZICHY GÉZA U.
FELSŐ
Vörösmarty SZÍV U. BAJZA U.
utca RÓZSA U. HERNÁD U. SZABÓ J.
MAREK JÓZSEF U.
VII DEMBINSZKY U. CHÁZÁR ANDRÁS U.
U.
MURÁNYI U.
K I R Á LY U . DOB U.
U. JÓSIKA U. BETHLEN GÁBOR U. ISTVÁN ÚT CSERHÁT U. SAJÓ U.
Oktogon EÖTVÖS U.
CSENGERY
HEVESI S.
NEFELEJCS U.
TÉR ALPÁR U.
BETHLEN
GÁBOR PÉTERFY SÁNDOR U.
TÉR
RÓZSA U.
DOB U. ROTTENBILLER U. GARAY U. JOBBÁGY U.
WESSELÉNYI U. ALMÁSSY U. DOHÁNY U. T H Ö K Ö LY Ú T
VÖRÖSMARTY U.
IZABELLA U.
CSENGERY U.
ERZSÉBET KÖRÚT
Keleti
MUNKÁS U.
KEREPESI
ALSÓ U.
ÚT
RÁKÓCZI ÚT FIUMEI ÚT Pályaudvar
HÁRSFA U.
JÓZSEF KÖRÚT
Blaha L. BEZERÉDJ U. BERZSENYI D. U.
tér KISS JÓZSEF U.
II. JÁNOS PÁL
PÁPA TÉR DOLOGHÁZ U. See also Street Finder
LUTHER U.
Il. János Pál maps 5, 6, 7 & 8
NÉPSZÍNHÁZ U.
pápa tér
One of the outdoor pools at Széchenyi Baths For keys to symbols see back flap
144-145_EW_Budapest.indd 145 15/09/16 10:30 am

146  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA

Street-by-Street: Around Heroes’ Square

Heroes’ Square is a relic of a proud era in
Hungary’s history. It was here that the Millennium
Celebrations opened in 1896. A striking exam ple
of this national pride is the Millennium Monument.
Its colonnades feature statues of renowned Hungar­
ian leaders and politicians, and the grand central
column is crowned by a figure of the Archangel
Gabriel. Vajdahunyad Castle was built in Városliget,
or City Park, adjacent to the square. Probably the 0 . Museum of Fine Arts
most flamboyant expression of the celebrations, it is This monumental museum building has an
eight-pillared portico supporting a tympanum.
composed of elements of the finest architectural
works found throughout Hungary.






Entrance to
the Zoo







Millennium Monument Dominating
Heroes’ Square, this monu ment includes
a sculpted chariot representing war by
György Zala.





9 Műcsarnok
Art Gallery
The crest of Hungary
decorates the façade
of this building –
the country’s largest
venue for artistic
exhibitions.


The Hungarian Millennium
Celebrations
The Millennium Celebrations in 1896 marked a high City Park Boating
point in the development of Budapest and in the Lake and Ice Rink
history of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy. The city
underwent modernization on a scale unknown in
Europe at that time. Hundreds of houses, palaces
and civic build ings were constructed, gas lighting
was introduced and continental Europe’s first Archangel
underground transport system was opened. Gabriel Key
Suggested route




146-147_EW_Budapest.indd 146 05/09/2014 15:35
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(Source v2.7)
Date 24th April 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm

AROUND V ÁROSLIGE T  147

e .Széchenyi Baths
This is the largest complex
of spa baths in Europe. Its
hot springs, discovered in
1876, bubble up from a depth AROUND
of 970 m (3,180 ft) and are VÁROSLIGET
reputed to have considerable
healing properties.
CENTRAL
PEST
Locator Map
See Street Finder, maps 5 & 6
Városliget



Ják Church This church
faithfully reproduces the
portal of a Benedictine
church, dating from 1214,
which can be found in
the area of Ják, near
the border with
Austria. It is part of
the Vajdahunyad
Castle complex.























Statue of Anonymous
Completed in 1903 by Miklós
Ligeti, this is one of Budapest’s
most famous monuments.









q . Vajdahunyad Castle 0 metres 200
This Baroque section of the 0 yards 200
castle houses the Museum
of Agriculture.




146-147_EW_Budapest.indd 147 05/09/2014 15:35

148  BUD APEST AREA B Y AREA


and Franz Liszt himself. Liszt not 4 Kodály Memorial
only lived in this house, but also Museum
established an Academy of Kodály Zoltán Emlékmúzeum
Music in the city (see p133).
In 1986, 100 years after Liszt’s Andrássy út 89. Map 5 B5. Tel (06 1)
death, a mus eum was estab- 352 71 06. q Kodály Körönd. Open
10am–noon & 2–4:30pm Wed–Fri (by
lished in his house. Various appointment only). Closed Mon, Tue,
items were assembled here, Sat & Sun. & ^ ∑ kodaly.hu
including documents, furn iture
The former headquarters of the secret and two pianos on which he Zoltán Kodály (1881–1967) was
police on Andrássy Avenue composed and practised. one of the greatest Hungarian
composers of the 20th century.
1 House of Terror His profound knowledge of
Museum 3 University of Hungarian folk music allowed
Teror Háza Múzeum Fine Art him to use elements of it in his
Andrássy út 60. Map 2 F5 (10 E2). Képzőművészeti Egyetem compos itions, which reflected
the fashion for Impressionism
Tel (06 1) 374 26 00. v 4, 6 to Oktogon. Andrássy út 69–71. Map 5 A5.
q Vörösmarty utca. Open 10am–6pm Tel (06 1) 342 17 38. q Vörösmarty and Neo-Romanticism in music.
Tue–Sun. & ∑ terrorhaza.hu utca. Barcsay Gallery: Open 10am– This museum was estab lished
6pm Mon–Fri, 10am–1pm Sat in 1990 and occupies the house
The museum is located in the (seasonal). & ∑ mke.hu where he lived and worked
former headquarters of the from 1924 until his death in
secret police of both the Nazi The university began as 1967. A plaque set into
and Communist governments. a drawing school, later one of the walls of
It records the grim events becoming a Higher the house bears
and practices of the “double School of Art. Since testimony to this
occupation” of Hungary at the 1876, it has occupied fact. The museum
end of World War II. these adjacent consists of three
buildings on rooms that have
been preserved in
2 Franz Liszt Andrássy Street. their original style,
The two-floor Neo-
Museum Renaissance building at and a fourth room that
Liszt Ferenc Emlékmúzeum No. 71 was designed in Sgrafitto by Robert is used for exhibitions.
1875, by Lajos Rauscher. Scholtz An archive has also
Vörösmarty utca 35. Map 5 A5. Its façade is decorated been created here,
Tel (06 1) 322 98 04. q Vörösmarty with sgrafitti by Robert Scholtz. for the composer’s valuable
utca. Open 10am–6pm Mon–Fri, The Italianate Renaissance handwritten music scores
9am–5pm Sat. & 8
∑ lisztmuseum.hu exterior of No. 69, designed by and correspondence.
Adolf Lang from 1875–7, is Worthy of attention are
This Neo-Renaissance corner distinguished by Corinthian the composer’s piano in the
house was designed in 1877 by pilasters and a full-length salon and a number of folklore
Adolf Lang. Above the windows balcony. The entrance hall and cer amics which Kodály
of the second floor are bas-reliefs first-floor corridor feature collected in the course of his
depicting famous composers – frescoes by Károly Lotz. Only ethno graphical studies. Portraits
J S Bach, Wolfgang Amadeus the Barcsay Gallery is open to and busts of Kodály by Lajos
Mozart, Joseph Haydn, Ferenc visitors, but the interior can Petri can also be viewed.
Erkel, Ludwig van Beethoven, be glimpsed from here.
5 Városligeti
Avenue
Városligeti Fasor
Map 5 C5. q Hosök tere.
This beautiful street, lined with
plane trees, leads from Lövölde
tér to Városliget.
At the beginning of the
avenue is Városliget Calvinist
church built in 1912–13 by
Aladár Árkay. This stark edifice
is virtually bereft of any architec-
tural features. However, stylized,
geometric folk motifs have
Original furnishings in the salon at the Franz Liszt Museum been used as ornamentation




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Date 1st October 2013
Size 125mm x 217mm


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