Volume 6 - Kitchen Manual

MODERNIST
CUISINE

6 · Kitchen Manual



MODERNIST
CUISINE

The Art and Science of Cooking

Nathan Myhrvold
with Chris Young
and Maxime Bilet

Photography by

Ryan Matthevv Smith
and Nathan Myhrvold

Modernist Cuisine

The Art and Science of Cooking

Volume 6

Kitchen
Manual

The Cooking Lab

Copyright© 2011 by The Cooking Lab, LLC

All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part
of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by
any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written
permission of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective
owners.

The Cooking Lab
3150 139th Ave SE
Bellevue, WA 98005
www.modernistcuisine.com

ISBN: 978-0-9827610-0-7
First edition, 2011

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request

Printed in China

ABLE OF CONTENTS Best Bets for Extracts ............................................................ 27
House Bitters ................................ ............. ............................ 27
CHAPTER 8: COOKING IN MODERN OVENS 2 Fines Herbs Extract ................................ ............................... 27
Best Bets for Infused Fats ................ ............. ........................ 28
How to Make Bacon and Eggs in a Combi Oven ................. 2 Shellfish Butter ...................................................................... 29
Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil .................................................. 29
Cantonese Fried Rice .............................................................. 2 Spiced Chili Oil ..................................................................... 29
Molasses Butter................... ................ ................. .................. 29
How to Roast a Chicken in a Combi Oven ............. .. ........... .3 Curry Oil ......................................................................... ....... 30
Crab Oil .................................................................................. 30
Combi Oven Roast Chicken .. ....... .......................................... 3 Malaysian Aromatic Oil.. ...................................................... 30
Additives to Preserve the Color and Flavor
Combi Oven Rib Eye............................................................... 4 ofFreshJuice .... ................. ....................... ............... ............ .. . 31
Meyer Lemonade ................................................................... 31
Roast Pigeon Crown................................................................ 4 Melon Water ........................................................................... 31
Pen Shell Clam, Pluot, Myoga, Scallop Mochi ................... 32
Combi Oven-Steamed Broccoli ............................................ 5 Sous Vide BerryJuice ............................................................ 32
Strawberry Consomme ......................................................... 32
CHAPTER 10: THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 6 Green Asparagus and Morels with Asparagus Jus ............. 33
Strawberry Gazpacho .............. .............................................. 33
Best Bets for Stocks ................................................................. 6 Best Bets for Jus .......................................................... ........... 34
Jus de Ia Presse ....................................................................... 34
Best Bets for Stock Aromatics ................................................ 8 Root VegetableJus ................................................................. 36
Sous Vide Vegetable Jus ................................................... .. ... 36
Spiced Shellfish Stock ............................................................. 9 Clam Juice ............................................. ................................. 36
Lamb Garlic Jus in aJar ........ .............. .................................. 37
Paella Stock ............... ............................ .......... ......................... 9 MushroomJus ........................................................................ 37
Sous Vide Mussel Juice ................................................... ...... 37
Triple Dungeness Crab and Pork Stock Infusion ............... lO Toasted OatJus ......... ............................................................. 38
Banyuls Glaze ... ..................... .. .......................... ..... ............... 38
Brown Beef Stock ...................... ............ .. .............................. 10 Tagine Base ..................... .............. ........... .............................. 39
Squash Glaze ..................... ............................... ........ .............. 39
Brown Veal Stock................................................................... 11 Sous Vide PrawnJus ....................................... ............... .. ...... 39
Sous Vide Rare BeefJus ........................................................40
Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock ............................. 11 Sous Vide BeefJuice ....................................................... .... ..-40
Centrifuged Carotene Butter ...............................................40
Onion Stock ........................................................................... 11 Tomato Water................... .......................... ........................... -40
Centrifuged Pea Juice ........................................................... 41
How to Make Stock Sous Vide ............ ................................. 12 Centrifuged Roasted-Hazelnut Oil ..................................... 41
Banana Yogurt ................................ ....................................... 41
Sous Vide Fish Stock ............................................................. 12 Best Bets for Consomme.. .................................................... -42
Oyster Consomme.... .......................... ................................... 42
Sous Vide Vegetable Stock.......................... ............... ........... l3 C larifying a Consomme...... ..................................... ............. 43
Apple Cider Consomme........................................................ 43
Best Bets for Broths ............................................................... 14 Spring Garlic Consomme .....................................................44
Bagna Cauda Consomme ................... ...... .. ............... ..... ....... 44
Borscht Broth ......................................................................... 14 Pistachio Consomme ........................................................ ....44
Pot-au-Feu Consomme ...... ................................................... 45
Hon Dashi ......... ..................................................................... 15 Oxtail Consomme ............... .................................................. 46
Red Coleslaw.......................................................................... 46
Ham Broth.............................................................. ................ 16 How to Distill with a Rotavap ..............................................47
Buddha's Hand Vodka ............... ............................................ 47
Oxtail Pho Broth ................................................................... 16 Vacuum-Concentrated Apple and Cabbage Juice ..............47
Mock Turtle Soup .................................................................. 48
Duck Broth with Vanilla and Bay Lea£.. .............................. 16 Indies Spice Blend ................................................................. 48
Quatre Epices ......................................................................... 48
Laksa Broth ............................................................................ 17 Chili Tomato Spice Blend .................................................... -49

Bouillabaisse Broth ................... ........................... ................. 17 Page references of the form 4-381 refer to volume 4, page 381. Selected component
recipes from the plated-dish recipes in volume 5 have been reprinted here. Each
Bacon Dashi .............................................................. ... .......... 18
appears in the chapter for which it is most relevant.
Tom Yum Broth ..................................................................... 18

Cured Ham Broth ........................ .............. ............................ 18

Baked Potato Broth ............................................................... 19

Goulash Broth ............ ............................... ................... .......... 19

Mushroom Broth ................................................................... 19

Best Bets for Infused Liquids ...................... ...... ...................20

Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers ............. 21

Sous Vide Ponzu ........................ ............. ... ......... ........... ........ 22

Best Bets for Lowering pH .......... ......................................... 22

Typical Acid Concentrations ............................................... 23

Seaweed Vinegar.................................................................... 23

Elder Flower Vinegar ............................................................ 23

Passion Fruit-White Soy Sauce Vinaigrette....................... 23

Constructed Red Wine Glaze ...................... .... .................... 24

Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol .......................... 24

Clove Oil ..................................... .............................. ............. 25

Cinnamon-Scented PeaJuice .................. .... ......................... 25

Condrieu Butter..................................... ................................ 25

Glazed Carrot ........................................................................ 25

Marinated Spaghetti Squash .............. .................................. 26

How to Wash Citrus Oil... ............................... .......... ........... .26

Extracting Flavor with Alcohol... ......................................... 26

Brown Butter Fumet.. ............................................................ 26

Hazelnut Oil Extract ......... ...................... .. .............. .. ............ 26

MODERNIST CUIS I NE v

Memphis Rub .. ......................... ......... ..................................... 49 Ling Cod with Bergamot-Infused Milk ......... ..................... 75
Kansas Rub .............................................................................49 Escolar with Red Wine Butter.............................................. 75
Chaat Masala........................................... .. ..... .......... .............. 50 Turbot with Onion and Marrow Broth ............................... 76
Sweet Spice Blend .................................................................. 50 Black Cod ............................................................................... 76
Passion Fruit Granita ............ ................................................ 50 Steelhead Trout Confit with Fennel Salad ......................... 77
Fish Spice Mix........................................................................ 51 Sous Vide Monkfish Pave ....... .. ............................................ 77
Pain d'Epices Powder......... ....... ................... ......................... 51 Sous Vide Snapper ................................................................. 78
Citrus Spice ............................................................................ 52 Sous Vide Salmon .................................................................. 78
Licorice Powder ..................................................................... 52 Skate Pave with Bread Crust ................................................ 78
Ras el Hanout......................................................................... 52 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Shellfish Sous Vide ............ 79
Exotic Spice Mixture ............................................................. 53 Sous Vide Mussels ................................................................. 79
Pacojet Pea Soup .................................................................... 53 19th-Century-Style Lobster with Sherry and Cocoa ........ 80
Mozzarella Powder .................................................... ,........... 53 Shrimp Cocktail ................................ .................................... 80
Frozen Cheddar-Cheese Powder ......................................... 53 Oyster Escabeche .................................................................. 81
How to Mill a Creamy Nut Butter ....................................... 54 Steamed Live Spot Prawn ..................................................... 81
Frozen Creme-Fralche and Pine-Nut Cream ..................... 54 Poached Lobster Tail ............................................................ 81
Sour Rhubarb Sorbet.. ............................... ............................ 54 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry ................................. 82
Romesco Sauce ...................................................... ,. ......... ..... 54 Sous Vide Duck Confit Pave ................................................ 82
Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees ............................ 55 Sous Vide Guinea Hen ...... ...................................... .............. 83
Broccoli and Hazelnut-Oil Puree ........................................ 56 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Shellfish ............................... 83
Creamed Watercress ........................................................... ... 56 Sous Vide Braised Snails ....................................................... 83
Pistachio Puree ...................................................................... 57 Squid Sicilian Lifeguard-Style ............................................. 84
Black Truffle Concentrate ...... .............................................. 57 Abalone and Foie Gras Shabu-Shabu with Yuba and Enoki .. 84
Celery Root Mousseline ....................................................... 57 Razor Clam with Sauce Verte.......................................... ..... 85
Best Bets for Freeze-Drying ................................................. 58 Sous Vide Octopus ................................................................ 85
How to Use a Spray Dryer .................................................... 59 Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts ...................................... 86
Spray-Dried Buttermilk ........................................................ 59 Suckling Pig Shoulder with Shallot and Orange Sauce ..... 87
Spray-Dried Blood Orange Juice.......................................... 59 Crispy Duck Tongues ................... ................................... ...... 87
Prefreezing Temperatures for Freeze-Dried Foods ........... 59 Beef Shank Rillette................................................................ 87
Freeze-Dried Beef Gravy Granules .....................................60 Sous Vide Pork Belly ............................................... .............. 88
Salted, Freeze-Dried Lobster ............................................... 60 Braised Lamb Shoulder......................................................... 88
Ramen Vegetables.................................................................. 61 Beef Brisket ......................................... ................ ... ................ 88
Ramen Stock Powder ............................................................ 61 Pork Ribs .. ............. ....... ...... .. ............. ....................... .. .. .......... 88
How to Carbonate Fruit with Dry Ice ................................. 62 Pulled Pork Shoulder ............................................................ 89
Strawberry Milk Shake ..................................... .................... 62 Braised Veal Foreshank............................................. ....... ..... 89
Orange Soda .......... .... ......................................... ...... .............. 62 American Wagyu BeefCheek............................................... 89
Carbonated Golden Raisins ................................................. 63 Rare Flatiron Steak ............................................................... 89
Shigoku Oyster with Fizzy Grapes, Fresh Wasabi, Braised Short Ribs ................................................................. 90
and Miso Powder ................................................................... 63 Sous Vide Veal Tongue .................. ....................................... 90
Beef Short Ribs ...................................................................... 90
CHAPTER 11: MEAT AND SEAFOOD 64 Glazed Oxtail ......... ................. .............. ...... ..................... ...... 90
How to Pressure -Cook Tough Cuts for Quick Results ..... 91
Best Bets for Tartares ............................................................ 64 Sous Vide and Pressure-Cooked Veal Breast
with Bulbous Vegetables ....................................................... 91
Hanger Steak Tartare ............................. .................... ........... 65 Pressure-Cooked Carnitas ................................................... 92
Microwaved Tilapia with Scallions and Ginger ................. 92
Beef and Oyster Tartare........................................................ 65 How to Puff the Skin on a Pork Roast................................. 93
Ultracrisp Chicken Crown ................ ...................... .. ........... 93
Scallop Tartare....................................................................... 66 Pork Loin Roast .................................................... .. ...............94
Puffed Cockscomb ................................................................ 94
Salmon Tartare Cornets ....................................................... 67 Monkfish with Constructed Skin ...... .................................. 95
Puffed Salmon Skin Pillows ................................................. 95
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats Sous Vide ................. 68 Puffed Chicken Feet.......... ........................................ ............ 95
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Offal Sous Vide ................... 96
Rack of Lamb .................................. ................................. ...... 68 Best Bets for Cooking Tender Organ Meats Sous Vide..... 96
Sous Vide Foie Gras .............................................................. 96
Pork Tenderloin with Juniper............................................... 69 Ankimo Torchon ................................................................... 97
Sweetbreads with Sour Mango Powder and Shiitake ........ 97
Venison Loin Rossini .................................... ........................ 69

Rib Eye with Cherry Mustard Marmalade and Porcini .... 70

Sous Vide Rabbit Loin ...................... .. .................... .... .......... 70

Best Bets for Cooking Tender Red Poultry Sous Vide ...... 71

Best Bets for Cooking Tender White Poultry Sous Vide .. 71

Poulet au Feu d 'Enfer............................................................ 72

Pigeon with Shellfish Butter ............................ .................... 72

Quail with Apple-Vinegar Emulsion and Water Chestnuts... 73

Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide .... ............................. 74

vi VOLUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUAL

Foie Gras and Button Mushroom Tart................................ 98 Saucisson Sec .................................................................... ... 134
So us Vide Pigeon Offal ......................................................... 98 Fermented Shrimp Sheets ................. ................. ................ 134
Foie Gras Soup with Bomba Rice and Sea Lettuce ............ 99 Fast-Cured Pepperoni ......................................................... 135
Sous Vide Veal Sweetbreads ................................................. 99 Coarse Fat-Gel Sausage ..................... ................................. 136
Crispy Sweetbreads ............................................................. 100 Emulsified Sausage with Fat Gel ....................................... 136
Best Bets for Brines ............................................................. 101 Low-Fat Chicken Sausage ................. ..... .. ........................... 136
Best Bets for Wet Cures ...................................................... 102 Rare Beef Sausage .......................... ...... ..... ...... ....... .. ............ 137
Best Bets for Dry Rubs ........................................................ 102 Fried Chicken Sausage ........................................................ 137
Best Bets for Brining ....................................... .......... .......... 103
Best Bets for Curing ............................................................ 103 CHAPTER 12: PLANT FOODS 138
Foie Gras Torchon ............................................................... 104
Foie Gras Parfait .................................................................. 104 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide Until Tender..... 138
Bacon Chip ........................................................................... 104
Shaved Foie Gras ................................................................. 105 Sous Vide Baby Beet Salad ................................................. 138
Duck Leg Confit with Pommes Sarladaises...................... 10S
Confit Cure Mix .................................................................. 106 Sous Vide Glazed Pearl Onion ................................... ........ 138
Miso-Cured Black Cod ....................................................... 106
Grapefruit-Cured Salmon................................................... 107 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide
House-Cured Bacon ................ ....... ........ ................ .. ........... 107
Microwaved Beef]erky ....................................................... 108 Until Tender ......................................................................... 139
Crispy Beef Strands ................................. ............................ 108
Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad .................. .......................... 108 Sous Vide Turnip .................................... ............... .............. 139
Juniper Brine ........................................... ........ .. ...... ............. 109
Sous Vide Duck Ham .......................................................... 109 Glazed White Carrot ........................................................... 139
Foie Gras and Hazelnut Ganache ...................................... 109
Fluke Cured in Kombu .................. ........... ...................... .... 110 Braised Turnips with Saffron ............................................. 140
Blackstrap Molasses Country Ham ................................... 110
Cured Beef Tenderloin "Bresaola Style" ........................... 111 Glazed Pearl Onion ............................................................. 140
Sea Urchin Bottarga ............................................................ 111
Salted Halibut .............................................................. ........ 112 Potato Salad ................................................... ........ ........... ... 140
Halibut Brandade ................................................................ 112
Seafood Paper ...................................................................... 113 Fresh Bean Salad......................... ......................................... 141
Bacon Chips with Butterscotch, Apple, and Thyme ....... 113
Kalbi Flank Steak ................................................................ 114 Sweet-and-Sour Cipolline Onion ................ ........ ............ .. 141
Lutefisk ................................................................................. 114
Yakitori ................................................................................. 115 Carrot and Dill Fricassee ................. ..................... ........ .... .. 141
Tuna Ribbons with Ginger Marinade ............................ ... 116
Fluke Ceviche ................................................ .... .................. 117 Sous Vide Lentils ................................................................. 142
Chicken Tikka Mas ala ........................................................ 118
Gong Bao Chicken............................................................... 119 Sous Vide Green Asparagus ............................................... 142
Beet Juice-Fed Oysters ....................................................... 119
Best Bets for Smoking Meats ..................................... ......... 120 Sous Vide Artichoke ............................................................ 142
Russian Smoked Salmon ..................................................... 121
Beef Cheek Pastrami ........................................................... 121 Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables So us Vide with Fat
Hay-Smoked Chicken Crown............................................. 122
Smoked Pork Cheek .............................. .............. ................ 122 Until Tender ................................ ...... ........................ ........... 143
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon ................................................. 122
Smoked Octopus .................................................................. 123 Chestnut Confit ....... .... ... .................................................. ... 143
Best Bets for Burgers .................. ......................... ................ 123
Best Bets for Coarse-Ground Sausages ............................. 124 Salsify Fondant ........ ...................... ....... .. ....... .... .... ....... ....... 143
Farce Royale .... ....................................... ........................... ... 126
Toulousain Garlic Sausage ................................................. 126 Sweet Potato Fondant ......................................................... 144
Green Garlic and Pork Sausage .......................................... 127
Best Bets for Emulsion-Style Sausages.............................. 128 Lobster Mushroom Confit ................................................. 144
Italian Sausage .......................................................... ......... .. 130
Frankfurter....... .. .......... ...... ........ .. ....................... ............ .. ... 130 Best Bets for Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide
Boudin Blanc .............................................................. .......... 131
Best Bets for Fermented Sausages ..................................... 132 for Purees.............................................................................. 144

Salted Caramel Apple Puree .............................................. 145

Tamarind Paste ............................................ .................. ...... 145

Date Puree ............................................................................ 14S

Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup

Until Tender ......................................................................... 146

Pink Grapefruit Confit ....................................................... 146

Best Bets for Warming Vegetables So us Vide ................... 147

Red Wine Cabbage ........ ....................... .......................... ..... 147

Best Bets for Potato Purees ................................................ 148

Potato Puree ......................................................................... 148

Best Bets for Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods ................... 149

Baked Beans ......................................................................... 149

Pressure-Cooked Tarbais Beans ........................................ 149

Caramelized Carrot Soup ................................................... 1SO

Autoclaved Onion Soup ...................................................... 1SO

Potato Puree ......................................................................... 151

Crispy Boiled Peanuts ......................................................... 151

Pressure-Cooked Sesame Seeds ............... ......................... 151

Best Bets for Risotto ........................................................... 152

Steamed Sticky Rice ............. ............................................... 152

Risotto Milanese ................................................................. 153

Paella Rice ............................................................................ 153

Sous Vide Clam and Oat Risotto ....................................... 154

Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Risotto ................................. 154

MODERNIST CUISINE vii

Braised Pine Nuts with Winter Squash ............................. 155 Green Papaya Pickle ........ .................................................... 180
Ragout of Grains ................................... .............. ................ .156 Pickled Butternut Squash .............................. ..................... 180
Root Vegetable Risotto ....................................................... 156 Crispy Dosa .............................................. ............................ 181
Best Bets for Microwaving Vegetables .............................. 157 Yuzu and Kumquat Marmalade ......................................... 181
Microwave-Fried Parsley ..................... .. ............................. 157 Enzyme-Treated Pink Grapefruit ...................................... 182
Tomato Powder ................ ....................... ................ ............. 157 Best Bets for Preservation .................................................. 182
Artichoke and Potato Chaat...................... ......................... 158 Best Bets for Heat-Treated Fruit ........................................ 183
Sichuan Bok Choy ....................... .. ................ .. .................... 158 Best Bets for Smoked Plant Foods ..................................... 183
Best Bets for Naked Frying ............ .. .................................. 159 Smoked Potatoes with VinJaune Sabayon........................ 184
Toasted Garlic Chips.......................... ............ .............. ....... 159 Smoked Potato Confit ......................................................... 184
Deep-Fried Brussels Sprouts .............................................. 159 Best Bets for Dehydration................................................... 185
Pommes Pont-Neuf .......... ..................... .......... .................. .. 160 Garlic Nougatine .............. ................... ............ .. .................. 185
Pectinase-Steeped Fries ......................... .. ............... ............ 160 Formulas for Dehydrating Produce ...... ............................. 186
Stir-Fried Fiddlehead Ferns ............................... ................ 160 Green Pea Wafer .................................................................. 186
Starch-Infused Fries ............................................................ 161 Crystallized Rose Petals ..................................................... 187
Ultrasonic Fries ................................................................... 161 Spinach Paper.................. ..................................................... 187
Starch-Infused Ultrasonic Fries ........................................ 161 Mandarin Leather......................................................... ....... 187
Best Bets for Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips ................ .162 Pineapple Glass ................................................ ... .......... ....... 187
Watermelon Chips .. ................................. .... ........................ 162 Best Bets for Freeze-Drying Plant Foods ......................... 188
Restructured Potato Chips................................................. 162 Onion Sable .......................................................................... 188
Best Bets for Batters ......................................... ................... 163 Seared Strawberry ............. ................... ............................... 189
Spot Prawn and Lotus Root Tempura Caesar Salad ......................................................................... 189
with Smoked White Soy Sauce ........................................... 164 Freeze-Dried Onion Powder .............................................. 189
Fried Pickles....................... ............... ... ................................ 164 Shrimp and Grits ................................................................ .190
Crispy Halibut Cheek ......................................................... 165 Best Bets for Pasta Doughs ................................................. 191
The Colonel 's Fried Chicken ............................................. 165 Herb-Embedded Pasta Vei1 ............................................ .... 191
Modernist Fried Chicken ................ .. ........................... .. .... 166 Spaghetti Carbonara ......................................... ............... ... 192
Oyster Beignet ......... .. .......................... ............ ...... .............. 166 Mac and Cheese ................... ................................................ 192
Breading ..................................... .......................................... 167 Pad Thai ................................................ ........... .................... 193
Crispy Okra ................ .......................................................... 167 Pasta Marinara ........... .. ....... .......................................... ....... 193
Cromesquis .............................................. .. .............. .. ......... . 168 Cocoa Tajarin......... ... ............ ........... .................................... 194
Fried Green Tomatoes .......... .... ............ .. ............... .. ........... 168 Ramen Noodles ................. .... ............................ .................. 194
Corn Croquetta ................. ........ .......................................... 169 Buckwheat Dough ................................ ............. .................. 194
Pork Trotter Beignet ........................................................... 169 Semolina Pasta ... ............................................ .. .................... 195
Onion Rings ......................... .. .............................................. 170 Best Bets for Compressing or Impregnating Produce ..... 195
Razor Clam "Takoyaki" ...................................................... 171 Smoked Lettuce ................ ................. ............................. ..... 195
Crispy Corn Pudd ing .......................................................... 172 Curry- Impregnated Apple .............. .... ................... ............. 196
Salting, Pickling, and Fermenting .............. .. ............. ........ 173 Compressed Muscat Grapes ............................................... 196
Preserved Pear in Mustard Oil........................................... 173 Compressed Melon Terrine ................................................ 196
Preserved Lemons ............................................................... 174 Waterme lon Meat ....... .............................. ... ....................... . 197
Pickled Garlic.................................................... ................... 174 Vegetable Coals........................ ........................... ................. 197
Pickled Tapioca Pearl. ........ .. ............................................... 174 Pulled Mushroom ............................................ .................... 197
Kimchi ...... .. ................................ .......................................... 175 Squid-Ink Bean-Sprout Risotto .................................... ..... 198
Watermelon Rind Kimchi ................................................... 175 Frozen White "Truffle" ................................. .. ................... 198
N u kazuke............................ ............................. ..................... 175 Clay Potatoes ....................................................................... 199
Sous Vide Cucumber Pickles ............................................. 176 Fossilized Salsify Branch .................................................... 199
Garlic Confit ........................................................................ 176
Aromatic Alsatian Mus tard ................................................ 176 CHAPTER 13:THICKENERS 200
Sauerkraut .................................... ... ..................................... 177
Braised Sauerkraut .................................. .. .......................... 177 Best Bets for Thickening with Natural Starch ................ 200
Pickled Figs ................................. ......................................... 177
Compressed Dill-Pickled Vegetables ................................ 178 Pregelatinized Starch Paste ............................................... 200
Pickled Jerusalem Artichokes ............................................ 178
Pickled Ramps ............................... ................ ...................... 178 Best Bets for Thickening with Modified Starch .............. 201
Pickled Lemon ..................................................................... 179
Pickled Celery Root ............................................................ 179 Avocado Puree ................ ..................................................... 201
Tomato Confit ................ .. ................................................... 179
Pickled Bing Cherry ............... .. ......... .................................. 180 Modernist Bechamel ...........................................................202

Jerusalem Artichoke Pudding ............................................202

Steamed Cod with Cod Roe Veloute.. ...............................203

Smoked Pepper Puree ............ .. ........................................ .. .203

Caramelized Creme Fraiche ...............................................203

Pomegranate and GarumJus ............................................. 204

viii VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL

Turkey Wing........................................................................ 204 Toasted Almond Milk .........................................................228
Thanksgiving Turkey Gravy ............................................. 204 Horchata (Chufa Milk) ........... ............................................228
Heather-Smoked Sturgeon Rillettes .................................205 Lemon Strips ........................................................................228
Crispy Goat's Milk Ricotta Dumpling ..............................205 Best Bets for Edible Films .................................................. 229
Marcona Almond Butter Paste...........................................205 Crispy Cream Cheese................. ......................................... 229
Malt Vinegar Powder ......................................................... 206 Spiced Honey Glass .....................................................:.... ...230
Bacon Powder Squares ....................................................... 206 Dried Cherry and Hazelnut Nougatine ............................230
Parmesan Nuggets ...................................................... ........ 206 Edible Wrappers ............................... ................................ ...230
Spiced Ash ........................................................................... 206 Onion Arlette .............................. ......................................... 231
Vanilla Olive Oil Powder ................................................... 207 BBQCaramels ..................................................................... 231
Cashew Halvah ................................................................... 207
Almond Polenta .................................................................. 207 CHAPTER 14: GELS 232
Edible Earth ......................................................... ................208
Corn Pebbles ....................................................................... 209 Best Bets for Cooking Whole Eggs ....................................232
Best Bets for Thickening Hot Liquids .............................. 210
Best Bets for Thickening Cold Liquids ............................. 211 Liquid Center Duck Egg .....................................................232
Ham Consomme with Melon Beads .................................. 211
Tomato Whey Broth ............................................................ 212 Egg Blossom ......................................................................... 232
Truffle Jus ..................... ............... ........... ..... ........................ 212
Beef Tenderloin with Jus de Roti.. ...... .. .............. .. ............. 212 Deviled Eggs ........................................................................233
Olive Oil Spread ..................................................... ............. 213
White Grape Syrup ...................................... ........................ 213 Custard Textures ............... ..................................................233
XO Sauce .............................................................................. 213
Caramelized Coconut Cream............................................. 214 Best Bets for Pickled and Preserved Eggs ........................ 234
Pressure-Cooked Polenta with Strawberry Marinara ..... 214
Creamed Spinach........................... ............................ .. .. ...... 215 Century Egg ........................................................................ 234
Warm Potato and Pistachio Pesto Salad ........................... 215
Aged Rare BeefJus .............................................................. 216 Pickled Quail Eggs ............................................................. 234
Shiitake Marmalade ..................... ................ ....................... 216
Maple Vinegar Gas trique .................................................... 216 Best Bets for Separated Egg Gels .......................................235
Mushroom Ketchup ............................................................ 217
Apricot and Jasmine Puree ................................................. 217 Cauliflower Creme Anglaise ................................ ..............235
Seaweed Tapenade............................................................... 218
Tamarind Puree ................................................ ................... 218 Eggs Benedict.............................................................. .........236
South Carolina Barbecue Sauce ......................................... 219
Kentucky Barbecue Sauce .................................................. 219 Miso-Cured Egg Sheets ......................................................236
North Carolina (Lexington-Style)
Barbecue Sauce ................................. .............. .............. .. ..... 219 Parmesan Creme Briilee .....................................................237
House Barbecue Sauce ........................................................220
Kansas City Barbec ue Sauce ....................... .. .....................220 Sauce Allemande .................................................................237
Memphis Barbecue Sauce ..................... .... ............ .............. 221
North Carolina (Eastern Region) Egg Salad Sandwich ... .................................... .....................238
Barbecue Sauce .................................................................... 221
East Texas Barbecue Sauce ..................................... ............ 221 Best Bets for Blended Egg Gels ..........................................239
Mughal Curry Sauce................................ ............................222
Pea Vine Salad............. .........................................................222 Boudin Noir Custard......................... ........... .......................239
Muslim Curry Sauce............................................................223
Green Mango and Cashew Salad .......................................223 French Scrambled Eggs...................................................... 240
Goan Curry Sauce .............................................................. 224
Kerala Curry Sauce............................................................. 224 Ham and Cheese Omelet................................................... 240
Masala Curry Sauce .................................................. .. .........225
Red-Eye Gravy ........................................................... ..........225 Asparagus Royale ... ...... ....... ................ ........... ................ ..... 241
Best Bets for Making Milks and Creams ..........................226
Low-Fat "Cream" ..................................... ............................226 Dashimaki Tamago ............................................................. 241
Instant Creme Fraiche ........................................................227
Herbed Cheese Spread ........................................................ 227 Pressure-Cooked Egg Toast ............................................... 241
Soy Milk................................................................................ 227
Toasted Rice Milk ...............................................................228 Chawanmushi ......................................................................242

Boudin Noir Bread Pudding.................................... .. .........242

Chorizo French Toast .........................................................243

Olive Marmalade ......................................... ........................243

Omelet Base .........................................................................243

Best Bets for Smoking Dairy and Eggs ............................. 244

Smoked Egg Creme Caramel............................................. 244

Pecorino with Truffle Honey on Cedar ........................... 244

Best Bets for Protein Curds ................................................245

Cocoa Nib Curd .................................................................. 246

Goat Cheese Dumplings .................................................... 246

Silken Tofu .......................................................................... 246

Fresh Cheese Curds............................................................ .247

Modernist Burrata ................... ............................................247

Goat Milk Ricotta............................................................... 248

Firm Tofu ............................ ............... ................................. 248

Mozzarella Balloons ........... .................................... .. .......... 249

Green Pea Yuba ................................................................... 249

Milk Skin with Grilled Salsify and Truffle Puree ...........250

Best Bets for Gelling with Transglutaminase (Activa) ... 252

Sour Cream Spaetzle ............ ............................................... 252

Salmon Custard ................................................................... 253

Edamame Sheets, King Crab, Cinnamon Dashi ..............254

Flourless Gnocchi.. ..............................................................254

MODERNI ST CUI SINE ix

Deep-Fried Custard.................. ...........................................255 Confit Egg Yolk Puree.........................................................288
Burmese Chickpea Tofu Laksa ..........................................255 Umami Seasoning Fluid Gel ..............................................289
Corn Bread ................................ ...........................................256 Fizzy Grape Fluid Gel .........................................................289
Corn Custard ............ ....... ....... .............................................256 Best Bets for Spherification................................................290
Peanut "Tofu"................. ...................... ................................ 257 Carbonated Mojito Spheres................... ... .... ............. ......... 291
Idiazabal Gnocchi..... ...........................................................258 Melon Caviar........................................................................ 291
Everything Bagel Broth ......................................................258 "Poached" Egg .................. ....................... ............................292
Dill Spheres ..................................... ..................................... 259 Tomato Spheres with Basil Oil........................................... 292
Squid Ink Fluid Gel...................................... ....................... 259 Gruyere Spheres................................................................... 293
Best Bets for Cold Gels ...................................................... 260 Caper Droplets ......... ............................................ ....... ......... 293
Salt Gel ................................................................................. 261 Mussels in Mussel Juice Spheres ........................................ 294
Two-Meter Parmesan Spaghetto .......................................262 Liquid Pimento Olive ............ .................. ....................... .....294
Long Island Iced Tea Gel Shot ...........................................262 Prosciutto and Melon "Raw Egg" ...................................... 295
Spiced Walnut Vinegar Gel ................................................262
Cauliflower Panna Cotta .................... ......... ....... ................263 CHAPTER 15: EMULSIONS 296
Knot Foie ............................................................................. 264
Madeira Gelee .............. ....................................................... 264 Ultrastable Beurre Blanc ....................................................296
Chili Pearls ............... ........................... ................... ..............265
Guinness "Pate de Fruit" ....................................................265 Poached Lobster ..................................................................296
Olive Oil Noodles............................................................... 266
Sea Urchin Tofu, Tokyo Negi, Sesame, Ponzu ................ 266 Beet Flexicurd ....................... ...............................................296
Olive Oil GummyWorms ...................................................267
Sherry Gel Cube ..................................................................267 Sea Urchin Butter .. ............. ............................. ....................297
Sunny-Side Up "Eggs" ........................................................ 268
Best Bets for Firm Coating Gels ........................................269 Oyster Butter Emulsion .................. ....................................297
Foie Gras Parfait Spheres.................................................... 270
Halibut Cheek Gel Base ............................... ....................... 270 Black Butter Emulsion ........................................................297
Foie Gras Cherries .......... .......... ..... ...... ..... ........... .. ..... .. ....... 270
Crimini in Amber .................... ............................................ 271 Broiled Tuna Belly with Montpellier Butter .................... 298
Salmon Poached in Licorice ............................................... 272
Foie Gras Torchon with Beet and Hibiscus Glaze ...........272 Blood Pudding Custard ...................................................... 298
Halibut in Verbena Bubble ........................ .. ....................... 273
Best Bets for Hot Gels .. ........................ ............................... 274 Best Bets for Constructed Cheeses ...................................299
Agar Carbonara ................................................................... 275
Gruyere Custard .................................................................. 275 Constructed Veal Cream ................................................... 300
Shellfish Custard ............................... ...................... ............ 276
Bone Marrow Custard ......................................................... 276 The American Cheese Slice .................................. ............ 300
Boeuf en Gelee .....................................................................277
Fruit and Vegetable Acidities ............................................. 278 Cheese in a Tube ................................................................. 300
Best Bets for Hot Fruit Gels .................. ............................. 279
Hot Orange Gel ..... .... ............ .............................................. 279 Cheesy Whip ...... .............. .................................................... 301
Hot Banana Gel ......... ................ .................................. ....... 280
Hot Green Apple Gel... ....................................................... 280 Cheddar Soup ...................................................................... 301
Hot Quince Gel.. ................................................................. 280
Quinoa and Idiazabal with Bonito Stock Veil .................. 281 Remoulade Sauce.................................................................302
Dungeness Crab and Apple Roulade ................................. 281
Best Bets for Methylcellulose Gels ....................................282 White Coleslaw ......................... ...........................................302
Properties and Applications of Cellulose Gums ..............282
Instant Tofu Noodles ................... .... ........................ ...........283 Sea Urchin Tartar Sauce .....................................................303
Potato Beignets with Caviar...............................................283
Sweet Pea Clusters................. ...................... .......... .. ........... 284 Basic Mayonnaise ................................................................303
Mackerel with Spicy Tomato Skin ................ .................... 284
Best Bets for Fluid Gels ......................................................285 Hot Egg Mayonnaise ...........................................................303
Passion Fruit Brown Butter Fluid Gel... ............................286
Hot and Cold Tea.................................................................286 Soft-Boiled Egg and Garlic Emulsion ............................... 304
Passion FruitJelly................................................................287
Popcorn Pudding .................................................................287 So us Vide Lemon Curd .................................... .................. 304
Lemon Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel .......... .......................................287
Parmesan "Polenta" ......................... ....................................288 Bacon Jam ......... ................. ....... ................................. .......... 304
Onion Fluid Gel .......................................... .........................288
Deep-Fried Hollandaise ..................................................... 305

Sous Vide Instant Hollandaise...........................................305

Black Olive Puree ....................... ...................................... ...306

Thickened Oil ......................................................................306

Invincible Vinaigrette .... .......... ...........................................306

Spot Prawns with Foie Gras Nage .....................................307

Eggless Citrus Curd ............................................................307

Mustard Vinaigrette ............................................................308

Sauce VinJaune ...................................................................308

Eggless Mayonnaise ........ ........... .........................................309

Spice Mix Emulsion......... ............. .......................................309

Olive Oil "Margarine".........................................................309

Pistachio Gelato ............................................ .................. .... 310

Hazelnut "Cream" ...... ......................................................... 310

Jus Gras ................................. ................................................ 310

Chilled Chicken-Noodle Soup........................................... 311

Ginger Cola ........... ................. ............. ...... ............. ............. .311

CHAPTER 16: FOAMS 312

Best Bets for Airs, Bubbles, and Froths ................ ........ .. ... 312

Citrus Air.. .............. ........................................... ...... ............. 312

Oysters with Mignonette Air ............................................. 313

Parsley Foam ........................................................................ 313

X VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

Kanpachi Sashimi with Citrus Foam ................................ 313 Pommes Soufflees ............................................................... 342
Geoduck with Seawater Foam ............................................ 314 Tapioca Starch Cracker ............ .. ................................... .... .. 343
Edible Soap Bar with Honey Bubbles ................................ 314 Black Sesame Rice Crisps ...................................................343
Saffron Honey Foam ........................................................... 314 Rice Crisp .............................................................................343
Lychee and Lime Soda ........................................................ 315 Puffed Chickpeas .................................. ............................. 344
Tomato Vinegar Foam ........................................................ 315 Puffed Crab Cracker........................................................... 344
Cappuccino Foam................................................................ 315 Cheese Puffs........................................................................ 344
Best Bets for Light Foams ................................................... 316 Soccarat Tuile ...................................................................... 345
Horchata Foam .................................................................... 316 Candied Puffed Oats ........................................................... 345
Whipped Cheese........................ .. ............ ....... .......... ........... 317 Scallop Mochi ...................................................................... 345
Blood Orange Foam ............................................................ 317 Gremolata Crisp ................................................................. 346
Milk Foam ............................................................................ 317 Aerated Mango Sorbet ........................................................ 347
Lemon Verbena and Peach Froth ....................................... 318 Edible Prune Coals .............................................................. 347
Corn Foam .......... .................... .. .................. ... .... .................. 318 Aerated Foie Gras ............................................................... 348
Blood Orange Sabayon ...................... .................................. 318 Aerated Gruyere ......................... .. ...... ................. ............... 348
Sous Vide Sole with Bergamot Sabayon ............................ 319 Aerated Coffee Ice Cream ..................................................349
Coconut-Lobster Emulsion .................................. .............. 319 Aerated Chocolate ...............................................................349
Mushroom and Bacon Cappuccino ...................................320
Poached Apple with Pecorino Foam ............ ....... .. ............320 CHAPTER18:COFFEE 350
Grapefruit and Black Pepper .............................................. 321
Best Bets for Thick, Fine-Textured Foams ....................... 322 Coffee Butter............................................ ............................ 350
Chocolate Chantilly ....................... ..................................... 322
Instant Swiss Meringue .................................................. .... 323 Stable Latte Foam .............. ... ................ .. ............................. 350
Eggplant Foam .... ............ ....... .... ........... ...............................324
Baked Potato Foam .............................................................324 REFERENCE TABLES 352
Hot Butter Foam ..................................................................324
Coconut Chutney Foam........................................ .............. 325 Converting Temperature ..................... ......... ...................... 352
Suet Mousseline (Thick) .................................................... 325
Dairy-Free Whipped Cream...............................................326 Converting Grams to Volume for Common Ingredients ... 354
Cauliflower Foam................................................................326
Fried Egg Foam ....................................................................326 Converting Weights ............................................................354
Horseradish Foam ........................ ....................................... 327
Oysters with Cava Foam................................... ...... ............ 327 Common Conversion Factors .. ...... .................................... 356
Barbecued Eel with Whipped Caramel............................. 327
Uni with Whipped Tofu and Tapioca ................................328 Converting Volume Measures ............................................ 357
Chestnut Cream...................................................................328
Whipped Butter ............. .. ...................................... .... .......... 329 Water Content of Typical Foods ........................................ 358
Yogurt Foam and Sweet Potato Chips ............................... 329
Best Bets for Set Foams.......................................................330 Fat Content of Typical Foods ........ ..................................... 361
Passion Fruit Marshmallow with Chorizo Powder.......... 332
Cryopoached Green Tea Sour ............................................ 332 Volumetric Equivalents for Amounts of Typical Foods.... 362
Whipped Yogurt Crisps ......................................................333
Green Tea Cake ...................................................................333
Microwaved Pistachio Sponge Cake ................................. 333
Hot Apricot Marshmallow .................................................334
Hamburger Bun ...................................................................334
Beet Meringue ......................... ..... ......................... .. ............335
Steamed Blancmange ........................................................ ..335
Chestnut Puffs ................. .................................................... 336
Buttermilk Biscuits .............................................................336
Rye Bread.............................................................................. 337
Moroccan Batbout Flatbread ........ ...... ...............................338

Siphoned Souffle aIa Lorraine...........................................338

Green Olive Meringue ........................................................ 339
Soy Sauce Cloud .................................................................. 339
Freeze-Dried Carrot Foam ..................... ................ ........... 340
Gruyere Souffle .................................................................. 340
Zucchini Blossom Beignets ................................................ 341

Pate aChoux ........................................................................ 341

Best Bets for Puffed Snacks .. ..............................................342

MODERNIST CUISINE xi

HOW TO MAKE BACON AND EGGS IN A COMBI OVEN

FOR THE BACON: FOR THE EGGS:

CD Assemble two sheet trays and two sili cone mats for each batch CD Butter several10 em I 4 in baking rings and place them on a very flat

of bacon. baking sheet lin ed with a sil icon mat. Alternatively, use the Rational
baking tray designed for cooking eggs (see page 2·166).
0 Sl ice the bacon to lYz mm I% in thick. Partially freezing the bacon before
0 Place one egg wh ite in each buttered ring, reserving yolks.
slicing may make this step easier and more precise. ® Cook the egg whites in a preheated combi oven at 79 •c I 174 ' Fand

® Arrange the sliced bacon on the trays in an even layer. Place a second 90% humidity for15 min.
silicon mat on top of the bacon and top it with a second baking sheet
to hold the sl ices flat. 0 Reduce the oven temperature to 63 ' C I 145 ' F. You may need to leave

0 Cook in a combi oven at160 ' C I 320 ' Fand 0% humidity until the bacon the door open a bit to cool the oven down. Check oven temperature
(via temperature probe or by pressing the temperature-control button)
is brown and crisp, 20-30 min. If you prefer really dry bacon, remove the to verify that it is at the proper temperature before going on to the
next step.
top tray and silicon mat, reduce the heat to 79 ' C I 174 ' F, and then
® Place a single egg yolk in the center of each egg white and cook
dehydrate for another 20- 30 min. The exact cooking time depends on for25 min.
the moisture content of the bacon. A sugar-based bacon cure browns
quicker and needs a lower temperature. ® Unmold the "fried " eggs and serve.

CANTONESE FRIED RICE Yields 1.2 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
56g 7%
Chicken fat, rendered, 10% CD Preheat oven to 245 ' C I 475 ' F.
see page 3·116 10% 0 Add fat to nonstick roasting pan, and let heat.
100%
Shiitake mushroom, thinly 80g ® Add mushrooms, followed by sausage, and oven-fry until mushrooms soften and
sliced 80g 10% sausages blister, about 5 min.
Chinese sausage, thinly sliced 5%
0.25% 0 Add, stir to evenly distribute other ingredients into rice.
jasmine rice, cooked 800g 10%
and cooled ® Oven-fryfor3 min.
20% ® Add, stir to distribute evenly, and oven-fry for about30 s.
Garlic chives, cut into 80g
40g 4% 0 Fold into rice and oven-fry for about 2 min.
5 em I 2 in lengths 2g
80g 3% ® Remove rice mixture from oven, leaving heat on.
Scallions, white only, fine 1.5% ® Make a well in the middle of the fried rice.
julienne 0.4%
@ Return rice mixture to 245 •c I 475 ' Foven to heat.
Red Thai chili, seeded and @ Add egg, and allow to cook until just coagu lated, about 1Yz min.
cut in fine julienne
@ Remove fried rice from oven.
English peas, shucked and @ Comb in e liquids and stir into fried rice evenly to season.
blanched (frozen peas work) @ Check season ing and serve.

Duck egg, beaten 160g
(four eggs)

White soy sauce 32 g

Dark soy sauce 24g
Mushroom soy sauce 12g
Toasted sesame oil 1.5g
from page 2·176

Note that this recipe can be made in a CVap oven ju st as well. Be sure to
vent heat from the oven in step 4, and wait until the temperature stabi li zes,
about 5-10 min.

2 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

HOW TO ROAST A CHICKEN IN A COMBI OVEN

CD Make b rin es. Whisk together 200 g of water with 16 g of sa lt until 0 Remove from the oven, and hang at room temperature for 45 min. Resting

disso lved to make 8% brin e. Repeat with 200 g of water and 10 g of salt to will help the meat reta in its juices when it is cut (for details, see page 3·84).
make a 5% brin e. Rese rve.
® Brush chi cke n eve nl y with clarified butter or neutral frying oil.
0 Separate th e skin from the meat . W ea ring gloves, work your fingers under
® Cook at 296 "C I 565 "Fand 0% humidity until t he skin is brown and cri sp,
the sk in to detach it from the surface of the meat over the entire body of
the chicke n. Be very careful not to tear the sk in. about7min.

® Inj ect the breast meat with an 8% sa lt brine. @ As an altern at ive to air-drying in a refrigerato r for three days, put th e
chi cke n in a blast chill er for 2-4 h on the chi ll (not freeze) settin g. The
0 Fill t he syringe with brine eq ual to 10% of the weight of the bird. For a 1 kg air-dry ing step ca n also be omitted-the first cook ing step may take a bit
longer, and the skin will not be quite as crispy, but it will still be much
bird, for examp le, use 100 g of brine. crispier than when roasted conve nti onal ly.

® Hang the chi cken by its legs in th e refrigerator for 48 h. Th e brine will @ Holding the core temperature of the bird at 55 - 60 "CI 130-140 "Ffor
diffuse fully, and the skin will dry out. just before cook ing, inj ect the
breast aga in, this tim e with the 5% salt brine. Use an amount of brin e about 2 h effect ive ly pa ste urizes the meat. For more on pasteurization
eq ual to 5% of the weight of th e bird. times fo r poultry, see page 1·181.

® Cook at 64 "C I 147 "Fand 0% humidity until the co re temperature of the
breast meat is 60 "C I 140 "F, about 4 h. Cook the bird hanging in th e oven

above a drip tray.

COMBI OVEN ROAST CHICKEN Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Whole chicken 2.0 kg 100%
Water 200g 10%
Salt 16g 0 .8%
Water 200g 10%
Salt lOg 0.5%

Frying oil or clarified unsalted butter as need ed
from page 2·178

PROGRAM HUMIDITY COMMAND
0%
STAGE TEMPERATURE CD Preheat oven to 62 "C I 144 "F
0% 0 Roast to core temp erature
2 62 "Cil 44 "F
of 60 "C I 140 "F, about 3 h.
3
4 300 "CI 575 "F ® Remove chicken, and let rest 45 min .

0 Brush chicken with oil.

® When oven has reached temperature,
place chicken in oven, and sea r fo r 7 min.

COOK IN G IN MODERN OVENS

COMBI OVEN RIB EYE Yields900g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beef rib eye, bone in 900g 100%
Unsalted butter, melted as neede d CD Brush rib eye w ith butter.
Salt to taste 0 Place meat on perforated rack, This cooki ng program uses 25 min
of drying to prepare the surface for
and begin program. searing. During the drying steps, the
tempe rature is in creased, but the
® After stage 5, brush with more butter. humidity is decreased so that the
wet-bulb temperature does not exceed
from page 2·180 the cook ing temperature. The tempera-
ture is increased in stages to give the oven
PROGRAM time to get rid of the extra humidity.

STAGE TEMP HUMIDITY COMMAND The temperatures at left are for what we
55 ' C I 131 ' F judge to be a medium-rare steak. The
2 55 ' C I 131 ' F 100% @) Preheat the oven to 54 ' C I 131 ' Fin steam mode temperatures can be adjusted for other
3 55 ' C I 131 ' F levels of doneness by using the table
4 58 ' CI136 ' F 100% ® Steam until co re temperature reaches 54 'C I 129 ' F, about 1 h. below.
5 61 ' CI 142 ' F
6 0% ® Dry for 5 min .
7 300 ' C I 575 ' F 0% 0 Dry for 5 min.
8 300 ' C I 575 ' F
0% ® Dry for15 min.

® Remove steak from oven.

0% @ Preheat oven until it reaches temperature, about 10 min.

0 % @ Searfor 2 min.
@ Turn a nd sea r another 2 min .

STAGE RARE MEDIUM RARE MEDIUM

51 ' C I 124 ' Fwith 100% humidity 55 ' C I 131 ' Fwith 100% humidity 60 ' CI 140 ' Fwith 100% humidity
to co re of 50 ' C I 122 ' F to core of 54 ' CI 129 ' F to core of 58 ' C I 136 ' F
2 51 ' C I 124 ' Fwith 0% humidity for 5 min 55 ' C I 131 ' Fwith 0 % humidity for 5 min 60 ' C I 140 ' Fwith 0% humidity for 5 min
3 53 ' C I 127 ' Fwith 0% humidity for 5 min 58 ' C I 136 ' Fwith 0% humidity for 5 min 63 ' CI 145 ' Fwith 0% humidity for 5 min

4 56 ' C 1 133 ' Fwith 0% humidity for15 min 61 ' CI 142 ' Fwith 0% humidity for15 min 66 ' C1 151 ' Fwith 0 % humidityfor15 min

ROAST PIGEON CROWN Yields800g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pigeon crown 600g 100%
27% CD Remove skin in one piece, making sure to remove skin around arm a nd shoulder.
farce royale 200g 0 Cut out shape from still- co ld skin to fit over crown, using actual crown as template.
see page 126 as needed 27%
® Dust farce sheet with Activa, and place over crown.
Activa RM or GS
@) Pull skin over crown.
Duck fat as needed ® Wrap crown tightly in plastic wrap, and vacuum seal.
Salt to taste
® Pl ace on small baking sheet in vacuum machine, and pull full vacuum to collapse a ny residual
Toasted oat jus, warmed 200 g
see page38 air pockets.

from page 5·132 0 Refrigerate for 6 h to allow e nzyme to bind proteins.

® Sear prepa red pigeo n crown in dry, hot nonstick pan, rotating and applying pressure to brown
evenly, a bout 5 min.

® Brush with duck fat, and season with salt.

@ Bake in 65 ' C I 150 ' Foven for40 min.
@ Carve breasts off crown, and cut into slices 1 em I :Y, in thick.

@ Serve with jus.

4 VOlUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUAl

COMBI OVEN-STEAMED BROCCOLI Yields 1.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Rice vinegar 100g 10%
Sherry vinegar 100g 10% CD Whisk together to make pick ling brine.
Water 64g 6.4% 0 Bring to simmer.
Sugar 28g 2.8%
Salt 3g 0.3% ® Reserve.
Broccoli stems, peeled 40g 4%
and thinly sli ced 0 Combine.
Shallots, thinly sliced 28g 2 .8% ® Pour warm brine over broccoli-stem mixture to pickle.
Currants 18g 1.8% ® Cool comp letely.
100%
Broccoli florets 1 kg 0 Reserve.
20%
Broccoli, small florets 200g 5% ® Arrange florets in one layer in combi oven steam basket.
Frying oil 50g
5% ® Steam at 90 •c I 195 "F and 100% humidity for 8 min, or until desired texture is achieved.
Salt to taste 3%
to taste @ Toss smal l florets in oil, and place on baking sheet.
Pickling brine,
from above 50g @ Oven fry in combi oven at 270 •c I 520 "F and 0 % humidity for 4 min.
30g
Toasted pumpkin seeds @ Drain.
100 g @ Season steamed and fried broccoli.
Chili oil @ Strain reserved pickled mixture, reserving brine.
seepage29 @ Toss steamed and fried broccoli with pickles, brine, pumpkin seeds, and ch ili oil.
Salted lardo, frozen a nd
very thinly sliced 10% @ Drape over warm broccoli mix, a nd serve.

from page 2·181

COOKING IN MODERN OVENS

STOCKS

0 Weigh cold water. Scale all other ingredients relative to the water weight. VARIATION: WHITE STOCK

For every 1 kg of water, for example, use 200 g of chicken wings and 750 g 0 Follow steps1 and 2 at left.
of ground chicken meat for chicken stock. Although the amount of water 0 Blanch bones. Cover the bones in cold water, and bring to a boil.
used is the biggest factor in the yield, the moisture of the ingredients 0 Sweat stock ingredients and aromatics in fat. See the Best Bets for Stocks
used, the cooking time, and the cooking method all affect the yield.
table below for recommended ingredients.
0 Mix vegetables and aromatics. See Best Bets for Stock Aromatics on page 8
0 Follow steps 3-5 at left.
for our recommendations.

0 Add stock ingredients and water. See the Best Bets for Stocks table below

for our recommendations. You can use more or less water than indicated
depending on the purpose ofyour stock.

Cook. The table lists suggested cooking methods, times, and
temperatures. If pressure-cooking, set the pressure shown on the gauge

to 1 bar I 15 psi. Vacuum seal ingredients before cooking so us vide.
0 Rest until pressure cooker has depressurized, about 20 min. Strain.

Best Bets for Stocks

Stock Fat (scaling) Bone (scaling) Meat (scaling) Liquid (scaling)

chicken, duck, frying oil 8% wings 40% ground chicken 75% water 100%
or pigeon

beef suet 5% calf's foot, split 20% ground beef 80% water 100%

red wine 10%

(for brown stock

only)

veal frying oil 5% veal knuckle 50% ground veal 25% water 100%

Madeira 15%

lamb frying oil 5% lamb shoulder 35% ground lamb 100% water 100%
and neck

pork frying oil 7.5% pork ribs 50% ground pork 50% water 100%

white port (dry) 8%

shellfish clarified 5% lobster, shrimp, 65% squid or scallop 20% water 100%
unsalted meat (optional) dry vermouth 15%
butter or crab shells and heads

vegetable vegetable oil 5% n/a n/a water 100%

fish olive oil 10% fish bones 100% n/a water 100%
white wine 10%
Chinese banquet pork ribs 20% cured ham, 10% water 100%
duck wings 20% thinly sliced Shaoxing wine 5%
Chinese chicken wings 15%
everyday chicken carcass 30% ground pork 40% water 100%
Japanese water 100%
chicken carcass 24% ground pork 8%
Thai chicken feet 6% shoulder
from page 2·296 pork trotter 12%
chicken wings 20% ground pork 35% water 100%
pork ribs 12%
coconut water 40%

6 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

VARIATION: SHEllFISH STOCK VARIATION: RICH BROWN STOCK

CD Fol low steps 1and 2 in Stocks, previous page. CD Weigh water.
0 Saute she llfi sh, aromatics, and tomato paste in fat on stove top . See the 0 Roast meat, bones, and vegetables. Cook at 190 oc I 375 °Ffor the tim e

table below for recomme nded ingredients. indi cated in the table at left. Add tomato paste if desired.
® Follow steps 3- 5 in Stocks. ® Deglaze roast ing pan. Use wine or water.

0 Combine aromatics with roasted ingredients.

® Follow steps 3-5 in Stocks, previous page.

Preparation (brown stock only) (h) Cook (h) (oc) (oF)
roast meat and bones
Yz pressure-cook 1Yz n/ a n/ a
roast meat and bones
1 pressure-cook 2Yz n/ a n/ a

roast meat }4 pressure-cook 2Yz n/ a n/ a
1Yz n/ a n/ a
roast meat 1 pressure-cook 2 n/ a n/ a
}4 88 190
roast meat a nd bones 1 pressure-cook
3 85 185
fry she lls with tomato paste 10 cook so us vide Jl/4 88 190
until golden brown min 2 n/ a n/ a

saute sliced vegetables 1 cook so us vide
until golden brown
ro ast bones 20 cook so us vide
min

pressure-cook

pressure-cook 11/4 n/a n/a
coo k so us vide 11/4 90 194

pressure-cook lYz n/a n/a

THE MODERN I ST KI TC HEN 7

Best Bets for Stock Aromatics

Stock Vegetable (sca ling)* Herb (sca ling)* Spice (scaling )*
vegetable onion 33% parsl ey 0 .75% black peppercorns 0 .1%
carrot 25% bay leaf 0 .01 % coriand e r seed 0 .2%
poultry lee k 8% thyme 0 .10% sta r a ni se 0 .2%
meat, beef tomato, peeled and seeded 8% chive 1.00%
game, lamb celery 5% 0 .1%
shellfish mushroom 5% 0 .50 % bl ack peppercorns 1%
onion 6% parsley ga rlic
fish carrot 5% 0 .05%
leek 5% 0.8% sta r a nise 1%
Chinese banquet onion 10% thyme 0 .15% garli c
Chinese everyday carrot 10% rose mary 1.5%
japanese celery 2% 0.01 % star anise 2%
Thai tomato paste (for brown stock) 5% 1.00% garli c 0 .2%
from page 2·298 onion 7% bay leaf 0.20% black peppe rcorns 0 .01 %
carrot 7% thyme 0 .25% fenn el see d 0.005%
celery 2% sage 0 .10% saffron
carrot 5% pa rsley 0.20% 2%
onion 5% thyme 0 .3%
leek 2% bas il n/ a garlic 0.2%
fennel 2% n/ a coriander seed
button mushroom 2% star anise 0.4%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5% 0.01 %
carrot 33 % ginger 0.05%
onion 26% white peppercorns 1%
leek 13% cinnamon sticks 0.4%
fennel 13% ginger 0.75%
tomato paste (for brown stock) 5% ginge r 0 .1%
sca llion 0 .2% garlic 5%
kombu 0.4%
scallion 1.2% n/ a bonito flakes 0.5%
onion 3.5 % n/ a ginger
carrot 3.5% garlic
scallion 1%

scallion 1% cilantro stalks 0 .20%
cabbage 1% Thai basil 0.30%
fried shallot 4% makrud lime leaf 0.40%
*(set weight ofwater to 700%)

8 VOlU M E 6 ·K I TC HEN MA NU Al

SPICED SHELLFISH STOCK Yields 800g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
33% CD Roasttogeth e r in 230 oc I 450 °Foven until uniformly
Chicken wings, chopped 500g 33%
100% go lden brown, about 25 min, a nd reserve .
Ground pork 500g
10 % 0 Crush crab she ll s and meat into sma ll er pieces.
Dungeness crab (whole) 1.5 kg 1.7%
(about 17% ® Fry in bottom of pressure cooker in oi ls until go lden,
three medium) 13.5% about8 min.

Grapeseed oil 150g 10% @ Remove crab pieces from oi l, and reserve crab pieces
and imbued oil.
Coconut oil 25g 10%
3.5% ®Fry prepared vegetables together with reserved crab
Leeks, thinly sliced 250g 100% oil in pressure cooker until golden.
7%
Carrots, peeled and 200g ® Add tomato paste.
thinly sliced 5.5%
0.12% 0 Continue frying unti l mixture is amber and cooked
Green onions, 150g 0.05%
thinly sliced 0.04% tomato flavor deve lops, about 3 min .
0.03%
Shallots, thinly sliced 150g 0.02% ® Deglaze pressure cooker.

Tomato paste 50g ® Combine, and place in sachet.
@ Combine reserved pork and chicken mixture,
Water 1.5 kg
vegetabl e mixture, a nd crab pieces in pressure
Carrot juice 100g cooker.
(from 250 g @ Add sachet, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
carrots)
1 bar I 15 psi for 1 h.
Shaoxing wine 82.5g
@Strain, and refrigerate unti l use.
Star anise 1.8g

Black peppercorns 0.8g

Grains of paradise 0.6g

Coriander seeds 0.4 g

Cardamom pod 0.3g

from page 5·186

PAELLA STOCK Yields 750 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Rabbit trimmings 350 g 35%
Rabbit carcass 335 g 34% CD Brown in 190 oc I 375 °Foven until golden, about
Yellow onions, 125g
thinly sliced 12% 25 min.
Grapeseed o il 100g
Tomatoes, peeled 100g 0 Sweat onions unti l trans luce nt, about 5 min.
and seeded
Carrots, thinly sliced 75g 10 % ® Add to onions, and saute vegeta ble mixture until
Leeks, thinly sliced 60g 10 % go lden, about 7 min.
Fennel, thinly sliced 55g
Piquillo peppers, 40g 7.5%
thinly sliced 6%
Pimenton de Ia Vera 6g 5.5%
(sweet) 4%
2.25g
Thyme 1 kg 0.6%
Wate r 550 g
White chicken stock 0.2% @ Combine in press ure cooker with brown e d rabbit
see page 11 pieces and vegetab le mixture .
100%
55% ® Pressure-cook at gauge press ure of1 bar 1 15 psi
for1 h.

® Cool.

0 Strain through fine sieve.

® Refrigerate until use .

from page 5·240

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 9

TRIPLE DUNGENESS CRAB AND PORK STOCK INFUSION Yields850 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
135%
Dungeness crab, chopped 1.35 kg 100% 0 Panfry until golden brown, about 15 min.
0 Remove from pan, and reserve.
Chicken wings, 1 kg
finely chopped

Ground pork 650g 65%
31.5%
Grapeseed oil 315 g 40%
28%
Scallions, thinly sliced 400g ® Add to pan used for meat, and saute vegetables until lightly browned.

Carrots, peeled and thinly 280g
sliced

Leeks, thinly sliced 280g 28%
24.6%
Fennel, thinly sliced 246g 13.5%
5%
Shallots, thinly sliced 135 g

Tomato paste 50g @ Add to vegetables, and continue to saute until mixture is golden brown, about 4 min.

Sake lOg 1% ® Deglaze pan of vegetable mixture with sake.
Water
1 kg 100% ® Add water and reserved browned crab, chicken, and pork mixture.

0 Pressure-coo k mixture at gauge pressure ofl bar 1 15 psi forl h.

® Cool, and then strain through fine sieve, yielding about 850 g of stock.

Star anise, lightly crushed lg 0.1% ® Bring stock to boil, and remove from heat.
Cinnamon stick 0.4g 0 .04%
Black peppercorns 0.3g 0.03% @ Add spices, and steep for 1 min.
Sugar 3g 0.3% @ Strain through fine sieve.
@ Whisk sugar into stock infusion until dissolved.
@ Cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5·254

BROWN BEEF STOCK Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
40%
Beef chuck, finely ground 200 g 0 Vacuum seal.
100% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 ' C1 194 ' Fbath until juices are released, about 1 h.
Oxtail, thinly sliced 500g
on a band saw 15% ® Strain, reservingjuice; discard meat.
Rendered beefsuet 75 g 100% @ Cool beefjuice, and reserve.
500g 10%
Water lOOg 10% ® Roast oxtail with suet in 190 ' CI 375 ' Foven until oxtail is brown, about 30 min.
Red wine (full-bodied) 50g 10%
4% ® Discard excess fat .
Carrots, peeled and 50g 4%
thinly sliced 4% 0 Cool and reserve.
Yellow onions, peeled 20g 2%
and thinly sliced 0.2% ® Combine in pressure cooker with beef juice and oxtail.
Celery, peeled and 20g 0.1%
thinly sliced ® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar I 15 psi for 21/> h.
Leeks, whites only, 20g
thinly sliced lOg @ Strain.
Red port (dry) 1g @ Cool.
0.5g @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
Parsley leaves
Thyme

Bay leaf

from page 2·301

10 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

BROWN VEAL STOCK Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
SOOg 50%
Veal knuckle and neck bones, CD Cover with water.
7.5% 0 Bring to boil, skimming often.
sawed into 5 em I 2 in pieces,
50% ® Drain, discarding water.
if possible 5%
0 Coat bones with oil.
Neutral oil 7Sg 1.5% ® Roast in 190 ' CI 375 ' Foven until golden brown, about 30 min.
5%
Veal trimmings, finely ground SOOg 2.5% ® Reserve bones, and discard excess oil.
2.5%
Neutral oil SOg 4% 0 Combine on nonstick baking sheet.
® Roast in 190 ' C I 375 ' Foven until evenly brown, about 20 min.
Unsalted butter 1Sg 100%
Sweet onions, peeled SOg 2% ® Strain, and reserve meat.
and thinly sliced 0.3% @ Melt butter in pressure cooker.
Carrots, peeled and thinly 25g 0.1% @ Add vegetables to pressure cooker.
sliced @ Cook uncovered, stirring frequently, until moisture has evaporated and vegetables
Leek, thinly sliced 25g
Tomato confit 40g are tender, about 7 min.
see page 179
1 kg @ Add to pressure cooker, and increase heat to high.
Water 20g @ Saute vegetables and con fit uncovered, stirring constantly until brown, about 4 min.
Vodka 3g @ Add to pressure cooker with bones and meat.
Parsley leaves 1g
Black peppercorns, crushed @ Pressure-coo k mixture at gauge pressure of 1 bar I 15 psi for 2Y, h.

@ Cool.
@ Strain .
@ Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

from page 2·300

PRESSURE-COOKED WHITE CHICKEN STOCK Yields400 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
350g 70%
Chicken wing meat and bones, CD Cover with cold water.
chopped 100% 0 Bring to boil, and then drain chicken
70%
Water SOOg 10% immediate ly. Alternatively, for brown stock,
roast wings and bones, and fry ground
Chicken thigh meat, finely ground 350g 5% chicken until golden brown.
5%
Sweet onions, peeled and SOg 1% ® Combine with blanched chicken in pressure
thinly sliced 0 .2% cooker.

Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 25g 0 Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I

Leeks, thinly sliced 25g 15 psi for1Y2 h.

Garlic, thinly sliced Sg ® Stra in through fine sieve.

® Cool.

0 Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

Parsley leaves and stems 1g

Black peppercorns O.Sg 0.1 %

from page 2·301

ONION STOCK Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 400 g 12.5% CD Saute onions over medium-high heat, stirring
125%
Clarified unsalted butter 50 g 7.5% frequently until golden, about 15 min.

Water SOOg 0 Simmer with sauteed onions for1 h.

Vermouth (dry) 30g ® Strain.

0 Cool, and refrigerate until use.

from page 5·264

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 11

HOW TO MAKE STOCK SOUS VIDE 0 Cavitate in ultrasonic cleaning bath for 30 min (optional). If the ultrasonic

CD Prepare ingredients. Grind meat finely, and slice vegetables thinly. bath has a temperature setting, put it at the highest degree available,

Use ratios recommended in the table of Best Bets for Stocks on page 6. typically 60 oc I 140 °F,
Roast bones.
® Refrigerate for 12 h, and then strain.
0 Vacuum seal ingredients together.
® Cook so us vide in 85 oc I 185 °F bath for 3 h. ® Vacuum seal again, and refrigerate or freeze until needed.

SOUS VIDE FISH STOCK Yields 1.5 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fish bones, cleaned and rinsed 2 kg 133%
Neutral oil 50g 3% CD Panfry bones until golden.
Vermouth 350g 23%
White wine (dry) 200g 13% 0 Deglaze bones.
Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced 500g 33%
Onions, peeled and thinly sliced 400g 27% ® Cool mixture completely, and reserve.
Fennel, thinly sliced 200g 13%
Leeks, thinly sliced 200g 13% 0 Prepare vegetables as noted.
Garlic cloves, thinly sliced 30 g 2%
Neutral oil 20g 1.5% ® Combine, and cook until soft.
Water 1.5 kg 100% ® Cool completely.
Coriander seeds 5g 0.3%
Star anise 2.5g 0.17% 0 Combine with bones and vegetables.

® Vacuum seal.

® Cook so us vide in 80 oc I 176 °F bath for 1Y, h.

@ Strain.
@ Cool.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.

from page 2·303

12 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl

SOUS VIDE VEGETABLE STOCK Yields350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE

Water 500g 100% CD Prepare vegetables as noted.

Onions, peeled and 280g 56% ® Comb in e .
thinly sliced ® Vacuum seal.

Carrots, peeled and 200 g 40% 0 Cook so us vid e in 85 oc / 185 °Fbath for 3 h.
thinly sliced
® Transfer to ultrasonic cleaning bath, and cavitate for 30 min to improve extraction.
Celery, peeled and 100g 20% If unavailable, proceed with remaining steps.
thinly sliced
® Cool, and refrigerate forl2 h.
Leeks, whites only, lOOg 20%
thinly sliced 0 Strain.

Button mushrooms, SOg 10% ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
thinly sliced

Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, SOg 10%
and chopped

Chives lOg 2%

Parsley lOg 2%

Coriander seeds l.Sg 0.3%

Black peppercorns 1g 0.2%

Thyme 1 g 0.2%

Bay leaf O.Sg 0.1%

Star anise 0.5g 0.1%

from page 2·303

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 13

BROTH Best Bets for Broths

CD Select a broth from the table. Broth Stock (scaling) Meat (scaling)
0 Prepare and scale the liquid, meat, 30%
pot-au-feu white beef stock* 100% oxtail, chopped 20%
vegetables, and aromatics. Weights in
the table are proportional to the liquid vegetable stock* 50% short rib meat, ground 62.5%
scaled to 100%. For example, to make 25%
dashi, for every 100 g of water used, madeira 4% 25%
add 5.2 g of bonito flakes and 2.5 g of 50%
kombu. ham broth water 100% prosciutto, thinly sliced 12%
25% ham, thinly sliced 10%
® Pressure-cook (set to 1 bar / 15 psi), madeira 19% Ibe rico ham, thinly sliced
or vacuum seal and cook so us vide.
Recommended cooking methods, fino sherry
temperatures, and times are given
in the table. game broth brown chicken stock* 100% venison, ground, roasted

@ Sieve. gin 10% pigeon wings, roasted

red wine 10% pheasant trimmings,
blanched

capon broth white chicken stock* 100% capon meat, ground 30%

wh ite wine (dry) 25%

When making dashi, the bonito flakes salt cod broth water 100% salt cod skins, soaked for 20%
are added only after the kombu has 12 h in cold water
been cooked so us vide. dashi water 100% bonito flakes 5.2%
pho broth water 100% beef knuckles, roasted 44%

Chinese ginger Chinese fish stock** 100% n/ a n/ a
soy fish broth Shaoxing wine 1.5% n/ a n/a
light soy sauce 1.5%
"Marmite broth"
adapted from red wine 750%**
Heston Blumenthal water 100%

from page 2·304 *(see page 6) **(reduced to 250%)

BORSCHT BROTH vields4oog

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Red beet juice 200g 100%
Water 110g 55% CD Vacuum seal together.
White fish stock 90g 45% 0 Cook so us vide in 85 oc I 185 °F bath for 30 min.
see page 6
Rhubarb juice 16g ® Pass through fine sieve.
Red wine vinegar 8g
Caraway seeds, finely to taste 8%
ground 4%
Salt to taste
@ Warm borscht broth, and season.

from page 5·235

14 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl

Vegetable (sca ling) Aromatic 0.01% Method Cook (oF) See page
carrot 10% clove 0.05% pressure-cook (h) (ac) n/ a next page
turnip, thinly sliced 10% bay leaf 2 n/ a 72
onion, thinly sliced 8%
shallot, thinly sliced 25% black pepper 2.50% pressure-cook 1'/2 n/ a n/a below, 241
garlic, thinly sliced 12.5% sherry vinegar to taste 16

whole onion 5% juniper berries, 0.2% pressure-cook 1 n/a n/ a
carrot, thinly sliced
celery, thinly sliced 5% crushed

shallot, thinly sliced 2% sage, thinly sliced 0.1%

onion, thinly sliced 15% Parmesan, grated 10% cook so us vide 2 88 192
garlic, thinly sliced cinnamon extract 3%
kombu 20% (see page 27)
whole onion, charred 10% sage, thinly sliced 0.15% cook so us vide 3 90 196
ginger, charred 2.5% thyme 0.2%
24%
scallion 5% n/a 0.04% cook so us vide 1 60 140
ginger black pepper 0.02% pressure-cook 1'/2 n/ a n/ a
chili 3% star anise 0 .02%
leek, thinly sliced 2% cinnamon 0.01% cook so us vide 35 min 80 176
carrot, thinly sliced 0.05% allspice cook sous vide 45 min 80 176
onion, thinly sliced 1,000% Szechuan pepper 0.05%
500% rice vinegar to taste
1,000% honey to taste
black pepper
Marmite to taste
sherry vinegar to taste
to taste

HON DASHI ADAPTED FROM YOSHIHIRO MURATA Yields360 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 475g 100%
Rishiri kombu, or best quality 12g 2.5% CD Vacuum seal together.
seaweed available (brown kelp) 0 Cook so us vide in 60 oc I 140 °Fbath for1 h.
5.3% The kombu flavor can be increased
Bonito flakes (katsuobushi) 25g ® Cool, and refrigerate for 2 h. by extending the refrigerator time
from 2 h to as long as 12 h. The
@ Strain . longer the time, the stronger
the flavor.
® Heat broth to 85 oc I 185 °F.

® Add bonito flakes, and steep forlO s.

0 Strain.

® Cool.
® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.

from page 2·306

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 15

Any cured meat can be used here HAM BROTH QUANTITY SCALING Yields 535 g
instead of ham. 500g 100% PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT 250 g 50%
The sachet is a pouch made of Water 100 g 20% CD Pre pare ingredients as noted.
cheesecloth that keeps th e spice Prosciutto e nds, thinly sli ced 0 Comb in e in pressure cooker.
mixture together in mu ch th e same Cooked white ham, 100 g 20%
way that a tea bag holds tea leaves. thinly sliced 100 g 20% ® Press ure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi
The broth can be made without the jam6n Ibe ri co, thinly sliced 100 g 20%
sachet, but then you will have to Madeira 75 g 15% for1Y2 h.
filter out the loose spice mi x to get Shallots, thinly sliced 50 g 10% @ Strain.
a perfectly cl ea r broth. Fino sherry 10 g 2% ® Coo l comp lete ly.
Garlic, thinly sliced 500g 100% ® Measure 500 g.
Bl ac k peppercorns, crushed 4g 0.8%
Ha m broth, from a bove 0.75g 0.15% 0 Disperse ge lat in and gum in cold broth.
160 Bloom gelatin
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, to taste ® Heat broth just e no ugh to dissolve gelatin .
CP Kelco brand) to taste
Salt ® Season and coo l.
Sherry vinegar @ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
fro m page 2·306

OXTAil PHO BROTH Yi e lds 4.75 kg
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Black pe ppe rcorns 2g 0.04% CD Co mbin e.
Cinnamon stick 1g 0.02% 0 Toast spice mix.
Star anise, ground 1g 0.02%
Allspice 0.5 g 0.01 % ® Place in sachet made of cheesecloth.
Water 5 kg 100%
Beef knuckles, blanched 2.2 kg 44% @ Combine in pressure cooker.
White onions, whole, unpeeled, 1.2 kg 24% ® Add sachet.
and charred
Oxtail, jointed and seared 900g 18% ® Press ure-cook broth at 1 bar I 15 ps i
Ginger, halved and charred 250g 5%
Fish sauce to taste fo r 3 h.
Salt to taste
Sugar to taste 0 Disca rd sachet.
from page 2·307
® Season and coo l.
® Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate until needed.

DUCK BROTH WITH VANillA AND BAY lEAF Yields500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
400%
Duck meat, finely ground 400g 100% CD Brown together lightly in press ure cooker,
30%
Duck wings, chopped 100 g 125% about10 min.
75%
Duck fat 30g 150 % 0 Add to duck parts, and cook until translu ce nt.
150 %
Shallots, thinly sliced 125 g 700% ® Add to du ck parts, and reduce to 225 g.
1.5%
Leeks, thinly sliced 75g 0.5% @ Place with duck redu ction in pressure cooker, and

White port (dry) 150 g press ure -cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi

White wine 150g for1V2 h.
® Stra in through fine sieve.
Water 700g ® Seaso n a nd serve broth, or cool a nd refrige rate until

Vanilla bean seeds 1.5g use.

Bay leaf 0 .5g

Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5·110

1 6 VOlUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUA l

LAKSA BROTH QUANTITY SCALING Yields500 g Laksa is one of the great dishes
100g 2B% of the Peranakan culture that
INGREDIENT 40g 11 % PROCEDURE merges Chinese and Malay
Onions, peeled and chopped 30g B.3% traditions. Many fee l that the best
Lemongrass, finely minced 20g 5.5% 0 Prepare ingredients as noted. laksa is found in the food-hawking
Cand lenuts, roasted and grated 5g 1.4% 0 Blend together in food processor. centers of Singapore.
Shrimp paste 5g 1.4%
Dried chili 0.7 g 0 .2% ® Measure 2B g of paste, reserving the rest.
Galangal, peeled and chopped
Turmeric (fresh), peeled 2Bg 7.B% 0 Saute until go ld en and very fragrant,
and chopped 20g 5.5%
Laksa paste, from above 360g 100 % about3 min.
Neutral o il
White fish stock 100g 2B% ® Transfer paste to large pot, and w hi sk
see page 6 in stock and cream.
Caramelized coconut cream to taste SCALING
see page214 to taste 13% ® Simmer broth for 5 min.
Fish sauce
Lime juice 13% 0 Season and coo l.
from page 2·307 11 %
9.5% ® Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate until needed .
9%
BOUILLABAISSE BROTH B% Yields 750 g
5.5%
INGREDIENT QUANTITY 3% PROCEDURE
Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, 120 g 7%
and diced 0 Prepare vegetab les as noted.
White onions, thinly sliced 115g B9%
Fennel, thinly sliced 100g B% ® Comb in e.
Shallots, thinly sliced B5g ® Cook over low heat until tender and go ld e n,
Leeks, thinly sliced BOg 100%
Carrots, thinly sliced 75g 22% about25 min.
Olive oil 50g 5.5%
Garlic, thinly slice d 25g 0.33% 0 Add, and in c rease heat to medium high .
Tomato co nfit, pureed 60g 0.1%
(or tomato paste) 0 .06% ® Saute until browned, abo ut 5 min, a nd
see page 179 0.003% reserve.

Fish bon es and head BOOg 2% ® Coat bones in o il.
Neutral oil 75g 1.4%
0.1% 0 Bake in 1BO ' CI 325 ' Foven until golden,
Water 900g
White wine (dry) 200g about45 min.
Pastis 50g
Thyme 3g ® Cool.
Black peppercorns, crushed 1g ® Combine with vegetable mixture and fish
Bay leaf 0.6g
Saffron threads 0.3g parts.
@ Vacuum sea l.
Blood orange juice 17 g
Red miso paste 13g @ Cook so us vide in BO' CI 175 ' Fbath
Blood orange zest, finely grated 1g
Salt to taste for1 '/l h.
fro m page 2·30B @ Strain.

@ Cool.
@ Skim fat from surface.
@ Season.
@ Cool.
@ Vacuum seal, a nd refrigerate until need e d.

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 17

BACON DASHIINSPIRED BY DAVID CHANG Yields 800 g

The quality of the bacon used INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
determines the quality of the final Water 1 kg 100%
dashi. Kombu 25g 2.5% 0 Vacuum seal together.
0 Cook so us vide in 60 'C/ 140 ' Fbath forl h.
Bacon, thinly sliced 250g 25% 0 Strain out kombu.
0 Vacuum seal with kombu-infused water.

Sake (dry), flamed off 30g 3% ® Cook so us vide in 85 ' C / 185 ' Fbath forl h 30 min.

® Strain out bacon.

Mirin lOg 1% 0 Combine.

Soy sauce lOg 1% ® Adjust seasoning as needed.

Sake 6g 0.6%

Sugar 1.4 g 0.14%

from page 2·308

TOM YUM BROTH Yields 750 g
Yields3sog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
32%
Shallots, chopped 160g 15.6% 0 Prepare ingredients as noted .
0 Combine in blender.
Lemongrass, bruised and 78g 12 % 0 Puree.
sliced thinly 12 % 0 Measure 100 g of paste.
10%
Palm sugar 60g 9% ® Saute paste until dry and very fragrant, about 5 min .
® Whisk into sauteed paste in large pot, and bring to simmer.
Tamarind paste 60 g 8% 0 Season.
® Cool.
Garlic, chopped 50 g 8% ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until needed.
2%
Ginger, peeled and cut 45 g 1.6%
into coin shapes 1%

Cilantro stems, washed 40 g 100%
and chopped
4%
Galangal, peeled and chopped 40 g 1.4%
0.4%
Belacan shrimp paste 10 g

Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf, bruised 8 g

Bird's Thai chili, chopped 5g

Neutral oil as needed

Shrimp stock (or vegetable stock) 500 g
see page 6

Palm sugar 20g
Fish sauce 7g
Salt 2g
Lime juice to taste
from page 2·309

CURED HAM BROTH

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
16.7%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced SOg 8 .3% 0 Saute onions and leeks in oil until translucent.
7%
Olive oil 25 g 16.7% 0 Add to onion and leek mixture, and saute for 5 min.

Leeks, thinly sliced 21 g

Dry-cured ham, thinly SOg
sliced

Garlic, thinly sliced 5.5 g 1.8%
100%
Brown pork stock 300g 0 Combine with sauteed mixture.
see page 6 0.4% 0 Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar I 15 psi forl h.
0 .1%
Salt 1.2g ® Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
® Season, and serve or refrigerate until use.
Thyme 0.3g

from page 5·84

18 VOLUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUAL

BAKED POTATO BROTH Yields300 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Russet potato skins 100g 100% 0 Coat skins with oil.
Frying oil 20g 20% 0 Bake in 95 oc / 200 °Foven for 7 h, until golden a nd completely desiccated.

Russet potatoes, peeled and 75g 75% ® Cool.
thinly sliced @ Pa nfry over me dium-high heat until deep golden, about 15 min on eac h side.
Clarified unsalted butter 15g 15% ® Cool.
Potato juice, d ecanted from 300g 300%
starch residue (from 700 g ® Vacuum seal with coo ked potato skins and slices.
of potatoes) 300%
Water 300g 0 Cooksous vide in 80 oc / 176 °Fbath for1Y, h.
Salt to taste
® Strain.

® Season and cool.
@ Vacuum seal, a nd refrigerate until needed.

from page 2·309

GOULASH BROTH Yields1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomato confit 100g 17%
see page179 0 Pan fry con fit with oil, stirring constantly to prevent
50g 8.5%
Grapeseed oil burning, until dark, a bout10 min.
Red bell pepper juice 120g 20%
0 Deglaze pan .
(from 300 g
® Scrape away and discard any bits on bottom of pan.
red bell peppers) @ Measure 250 g of mi xture, and reserve.
® Cook onions slowly in suet until deep amber and dry,
Red onions, thinly sliced 600g 100%
17% about 45 min. If pan becomes too dry, add small
Rendered suet 100g amount of water to preve nt onions from becoming
too dark.
Brown beef stock 800g 133 % ® Combine all ingredients with both reserved tomato
see page 10 con fit mixture and reduced onions.
Caraway seeds, toasted 3.5g 0.6%
Black peppercorns, 3g 0.5% 0 Vacuum seal.
toasted ® Cook so us vide in 85 oc / 185 °Fbath for 2Yz h.
Sweet paprika 2g 0.3%
Hot paprika 1.25g 0.2% ® Strain through fin e sieve.
Black cumin seeds, 0.5g 0.08% @ Clarify with centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h.
toasted @ Refrigerate until chilled.
Cumin seeds, toasted 0 .5g 0.08% @ Measure 25 g offat from surface of broth; reserve fat
Sherry vinegar 45g 7.5%
Sugar 6g 1% and broth separately.
Salt to taste
from page 5·56 @ Season broth.

MUSHROOM BROTH Yields250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
25%
Shallots, thinly sliced 37g 6% 0 Saute until golden, about15 min.
180%
Olive oil 8.5g 100%

Water 250g 0 Pressure-cook with sha ll ots at gauge pressure of

Crimini mushrooms, 140g 1.4 bar / 21 psi for 45 min.
thinly sliced
® Stra in and cool.

from page 5·14

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 19

INFUSING FLAVOR INTO A LIQUID

@ Combine ingredient with cold liquid. Quantities in the table Best Bets for Infused
liquids below are proportional to the weight of the liquid. For example, to infuse rice
vinegar with lemongrass, add 10 g of crushed lemongrass for every100 g of vinegar.

0 Vacuum seal (optional), and cook. Recommended cooking methods, temperatures,

and times are given in the table. Sieve.

Best Bets for Infused Liquids

Ingredient (scaling)* Method (oC) Infusion Example use See page
cured bacon, thinly sliced (of) (h) bacon water 248
black pepper, crushed 30% cook sous vide 85 185 2
chili, dried 3 37 12 Chinese broth 318
cinnamon, finely crushed 0.50% infuse sous vide 3 37 12 cinnamon dashi 320
coffee, ground 3 37 12 beefjus 315
ginger, thinly sliced 2% infuse so us vide 3 37 12 Chinese broth 319
juniper, crushed 3 37 12 game broth
lemon zest, grated 3% infuse so us vide 70 148 15 min broth for pasta 5·109
lemongrass, thinly sliced 3 37 12 Thai or Vietnamese broth
lemon verbena 7% infuse so us vide 85 185 20 min lemon verbena sponge
licorice root, grated 3 37 12 broth for foie gras
mushroom, dried 120% blend, infuse 3 37 12 mushroom cappuccino
nutmeg, grated 60 140 20 min
Parmesan cheese, grated 7% cook so us vide 3 37 12 Parmesan water
prosciutto, thinly sliced 85 185 12 prosciutto water
saffron threads 10% infuse so us vide 80 176 2 tomato vinegar
star anise, crushed 3 37 24
tarragon 50% cook so us vide 3 37 12 beurre blanc, fish broth
tea, black 3 37 12 bergamot sabayon
tea, green 30% infuse sous vide 85 185 Smin
tea, white 3 37 12 goulash
paprika, finely ground 5% infuse so us vide 70 158 7min citrus seafood broth
young pine buds 3 37 3 broth for foie gras
vanilla 6% cook so us vide 3 37 12
from page 2·310 3 37 24
0.2% infuse so us vide

80% cook so us vide

30% cook so us vide

1.5% infuse so us vide

3% infuse so us vide

20% infuse sous vide

3% ultrasonic bath

2% infuse sous vide

4% cook so us vide

2% infuse sous vide

8% boil and refrigerate

1.5% infuse so us vide

*(set weight ofliquid to 700%)

20 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers

When cooks judge the flavor balance and seasoning of besides sprinkling salt crystals over your food: anchovies,
a dish, salt is typically checked first. Get the salt level wrong, dried scallops, and shrimp paste all layer on tastes of the
and diners will quickly be distracted from their enjoyment sea and the shore. Ingredients such as bacons, hams, and
of the food. Table salt enhances our perception of flavor, cheeses carry hints of the country, barnyard, and some-
and so do nucleotides and monosodium glutamate (MSG), times smoke. Soy sauce, fish sauce, miso, and natto are
which are savory salts that trigger different taste receptors all fermented seasoning agents, and each has a certain
than salt does. You can enhance flavor in many ways tanginess and vegetal quality.

Salts Taste Aroma (sca ling)* Note

salt defines salty none 0.5%-2.0% most useful flavor enhancer in the kitchen; most
people find 0.75-1% best for savory foods

monosodium defines umami none 0.1%-2.0% found naturally in all high-protein foods; some
glutamate (also called savory) none people find >1% harsh and metallic-tasting

5' savory 0.02% found naturally in most foods; boosts existing
ribonucleotides savory flavors

Seasonings salty, sharp, acidic, varies greatly 3%-10% hard cheeses like Parmesan contain both salt and
aged cheese strongly savory 0.2%-0.8% glutamate
salty and oily fishy; roasted scent when
anchovy cooked used as a seasoning since the time of Imperial Rome
salty smoky, fried, meaty
bacon salty, slightly bitter mustard oil, hint of thyme 3%-15% can quickly overwhelm a dish
capers and astringent 2% add at the last moment; high heat degrades aromas
(salt-packed) salty, strongly savory,
cured meats slightly sweet varies greatly; often nutty, 5%-15% use with moderation; combination of salt, sugar, fat,
slightly sweet fruity, and floral 3%-5% and Maillard flavors with smoke aromas is powerful
dried scallops salty, strongly savory, pungent, slightly fishy, cured 2%-10%
fish sauce slightly sweet pungent, slightly fishy 1%-7% used primarily in Asian cooking
pungent, slightly
garlic sweet, enhances sulfurous 0 . 3 % -1.5 % adds depth and savory flavor; tastes better
savory than it smells; a favorite in ancient Rome
Marmite or salty, strongly savory yeasty, meaty, malted
Vegemite when garlic is crushed and raw or lightly cooked,
miso, red slightly sweet, savory its allicin compounds trigger pain and temperature
miso, white receptors in the mouth, thereby enhancing flavors
natto salty, savory
adds meat-like flavors to vegetarian dishes
shallots pungent, slightly
sweet, enhances strong, roasted, hint of cocoa 1%-8% includes all three primary salts listed above;
shrimp paste savory 1%-8% pungency varies with degree offermentation
salty, slightly sweet, mild, caramel, toasty 1%
soy, dark savory pungent, fermented, roasted, similar to garlic but does not cause onion breath
salty, slightly sweet, cheesy 5%-30% because sulfurous compounds do not enter
soy, white mildly astringent sulfurous bloodstream
tomato used primarily in Southeast Asian cooking
sweet, acidic, savory pungent, slightly fishy, cured 1%-3 %

strong, fermented, roasted, 2%-5% tastes and aromas vary greatly among styles and
molasses brands
mellow, slightly sweet, floral
fruity, musky, sometimes 2%-5%
floral
Worcestershire salty, sweet, savory, 5%-9% rich source of sugars, acids, and salts when ripe;
sauce acidic, slightly spicy fermented, roasted, 2%-5% enhances roasted aromas when browned with
molasses, spicy, vinegary meats
from page 2·312
has many applications; underused as a seasoning;
a distant relative of Roman fish sauce (gorum)

*(set weight affaod being seasoned to 100%)

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 21

sous VIDE PONZU ADAPTED FROM KYLE CONNAUGHTON Yields 1.95 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yuzu 17%
120g CD Grate zest, and juice flesh.
(about
four whole)

Sudachi (optional) 35g 5% 0 Combine in pan, and simmer until reduced to As it does for vegetable stocks,
Mirin 700g 100% putting a broth in an ultrasonic bath
Sake 65g 9.5% about 80% of original volume. for 30 minutes improves flavor
extraction. This should be done
Kombu (Rishiri if available) 15g 2% ® Toast over open flame on all sides. after the so us vide cooking step.
Tamari soy sauce 550g
Red rice vinegar (yusen) 525g 79% 0 Combine with citrus zest and juice, kombu, and
Shoyusoysauce(usu-kuchi llOg
shoyu) 75% reduced mirin-sake mixture.
Bonito flakes (katsuobushi) lOg 16% ® Vacuum seal.

® Refrigerate for 3 weeks.

1.4% (j) Strain.

® Use immediately, or vacuum seal and
refrigerate until needed .

from page 2·313

Best Bets for Lowering pH

Ingredient Typical pH Flavor profile Example uses

Vinegar (pH 2.4-3.4)

cider vinegar 2.4 sharp, apple salad dressing, marinade, coagulation

malt vinegar 2.4 bittersweet, hops, caramel sauce, marinade

red wine vinegar 2.4 currant, tannic dressing

rice vinegar 2.8 sweet, subtle, toasty salad dressing, marinade, coagulation

sherry vinegar 3.4 sweet, oak, cherry, earthy salad dressing, finishing meat sauce

white wine vinegar 2.8 clean, bright, green grape salad dressing, fish broth, butter sauce

Citrus (pH 1.8-3.9)

grapefruit juice 3.7 floral, light citrus, coffee finishing sauces, seasoning seafood dishes

lemon juice 2.3 bright, perfumed dressing, sauce, balancing oil

lime juice 1.8-2 sharp, coconut, pine sour broth, finishing fruit and vegetable water

orange juice 3.9 sweet, neroli mellows other acids

Pure acids (diluted 1:10 with water; pH 2.4-2.9)

acetic acid (vinegar) 2.9 pungent wine sauce, dressing

ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 2.9 crisp color preservative

citric acid (citrus) 2.4 sharp, citrus fruity sauce for fish

lactic acid (dairy) 2.6 buttermilk, sour cream dairy applications, enhancing fermented flavors
for quick kim chi and sauerkraut

malic acid (apple, cherry) 2.4 tangy with Iight fruit notes finishing glaze, sauce, raw fruit sauce, and water

tartaric acid (grape) 2.4 heavy acidity, light flavor reduction, wine sauce, fruit sauce

Tart fruit (pH 2.5-4.2)

red currant 3.1 tannic, bitter, berry glaze or sauce for red meat, game

rhubarb juice 3.4 astringent, herbal, mellows when cooked sauce or broth for fish, foie gras

tamarind paste 3.7 sour, caramel, pungent sauce, sweets, dressing, broth

tomato juice 4.2 earthy, complex, vegetable vegetable broth, dressing

verjus 2.7 tannic, grape must finishing sauce (best used raw)

gooseberry juice 2.6 bitter, sour, floral dressing for shellfish and oysters

from page 2·314

2 2 VO LU ME 6 ·K I TC HE N MA NUA L

Typical Acid Concentrations

Acid type For seasoning For souring For vinaigrettes For pickles
(pH 5.5-6.5) (pH 4.0-4.5) (pH 3.0-3.8) (pH 2.3-3.0)
5%-10%
kitchen acids 0.2%-0.5% 1%-3% 3%-6% 65%-100%
65%-100%
citrus jui ce 1%-3% 5%-15% 10%-100% 50 %-100%

astrin ge nt fruit 3%-10% 10%-5 0% 10 % - 6 0 %

vinegar 1%-5% 25%-75% 30%-100%

from page 2·315 Kitchen acid s in clude ascorbic, acetic, citri c, lactic, malic, and tartaric acids. Note that the wide
ranges in this table are due to variations in the ini tia l pH and in the buffering capaci ty of the food.

SEAWEED VINEGAR Yields250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE ja panese flavor comb in ations often
Cider vinegar 200g 100% @ Combine. inclu de multiple variatio ns o n the
Muscovado sugar 26g 13% umami fl avor theme. In this recipe,
Pa lm sugar 16g 8% 0 Bring to simm e r. different soy sauces and kombu
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 1% provide um a mi notes, wh ich are
and crushed ® Stir mixture un ti l sugar is dissolved, a nd rese rve balanced by the bright yuzu c itrus
Kombu, shredded, soaked 30g 15% warm. flavors.
for45 min in warm water,
and dra ined 3g 1.5% 0 Combine, and add to vinegar mixture.
Ginger, grated 5%
® Vacuum sea l and steep at room temperature
Whiskey lO g forl2 h.
Salt to taste
from page 2·315 ® Strain.

0 Whisk into strain ed vin egar.

® Season.

ELDER FLOWER VINEGAR Yields700g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Many foods have compou nd s in
100% them that wi ll react with any ac id
White wine vinegar 500g 34% 0 Whisk together. yo u add, which tends to neutralize
Elder blossoms, 170g 0 Vacuum sea l. the ac id. Chem ists ca ll this prop-
thoroughly washed 20% erty buffering. A food w ith a high
Ma lt vinegar lOO g 20% ® In fuse refrigerated for at least 1 wee k. buffering capacity requires more
13% acid to be added to reach a given
Ri ce vinegar lOO g 0.4% 0 St rain. leve l of final acidity th an one with
a low buffering ca pac ity. Because
® Use to dress sa lads or as cond im en t for raw she llfish. this capaci ty varies from food to
food, it is ha rd to give precise
Sugar 65g numbers on how mu ch acid to
Ma lic aci d 2g add. A pH mete r is the best way
to achi eve consistency.
from page 2·315

PASSION FRUIT-WHITE SOY SAUCE VINAIGRETTE Yie lds 70 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Passion fruit juice 55 g 100%
White soy sauce 10.5 g 19% 0 Mix together until malic acid is fully dissolved.
Lim e juice 7g 13% 0 Refrigerate until use.
ja la peno, brunoise 3g 5.5%
Malic acid 1g 1.8%
from page 5·183

THE MOD ERNI ST KI TC HEN 23

CONSTRUCTED RED WINE GLAZE Yields 65 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Blackberries (fresh) lOOg 100%
Blueberries (fresh) 50g 50% 0 Vacuum seal.
®Cook so us vide in 65 oc I 149 °F bath for1 h.
Verjuice (store-bought) 50g 50%
2 .0 % ®Cooland puree.
Kalamata olive brine (from store-bought olives) 2 g 1.5%
1.0 % 0 Pass through fine sieve.
Tannin powder(Obipektin brand Enocianin-A) 1.5 g 0.5 %
0.25% ®B lend well with 50 g of berry puree.
Tartaric acid 1g 0.2 % ®Vacuum seal, and refrigerate.
5%
Fructose 0.5g 0 Warm wine glaze, and whisk in cold butter unti l fully emulsified . Check

Oak chips, grated 0.25g salt and acidity; add salt if needed.

Ma lic acid 0.2g

Unsalted butter, cold 5g

Salt to taste

from page 5·221

Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol

Broth Sauce See
page
Ingredient (scaling)* (scaling)* Characteristic aromas Alcohol content Example uses
high
aquavit 2%-7% 10%-30% caraway, fennel high finishing raw, cold items

Armagnac 1%-5% 10%-30 % smoke, oak low glaze, sauce, adding body 347
and subtle flavors
high
beer orale 10%-20% 15%-40% malt, barley, bitter meat sauce, glaze, adding grain 42
high
flavors and bitterness
low to moderate
Cognac 2%-6% 10%-30% smoke, oak, tobacco glaze, sauce, adding body 109

and subtle flavors

gin 1%-5% 10%-3 0 % juniper, pine, cassia marinade and game sauce, adding 109

spice

Madeira 5%-10% 20% pepper, plum sauce with dairy or mushrooms,

adding

sweetness and fruit flavors

p a s t is 1%-5% 1%-5% anise, licorice, sugar moderate seafood broth, soup
port, red 10%-20% 15%-40% cherry, berry, oak low to moderate
port, white 15%-40% 15%-100% pear, sour grape low to moderate broth and sauce 212
sake 5%-16% 25%-75% light pepper, honeydew low
broth, sauce, adding sweetness 16

fish broth, adding sweetness and a 5·197

little spice

Shaoxing 3%-15% 10%-30 % sweet rice, floral low to moderate pork, fish sauce, adding 5·167

acidity and sweetness

sherry, dry 3%-8% 15%- 40% almond, hazelnut low to moderate shellfish broth, adding body and 5·31

tannins

sherry, sweet 5%-10% 5%-20% cherry, currant moderate glaze broth, adding sweetness and

complexity

vermouth 5%-20% 15%- 40% chamomile, cardamom moderate to high fish broth, sauce, enhancing flavors 5·233
vin jaune 2%-20% 25%-74% walnut, almond, melon low to moderate
broth, sauce, adding acidity and 5·113

body

whiskey 7%-10% 20%-60% smoke, leather, vanilla, high glaze, adding sweet 5·66
wine, red 7%-15% 25%-100% char, peat low to moderate
tannin, berry, oak and smoky flavors

glaze, meat sauce, adding 34

complexity and fruit flavors

wine, white 7%-15% 25%-100% apple, pear, floral low to moderate broth and sauce, adding acidity 76

and complexity

from page 2·317 *(set weight ofbroth or sauce to 700%)

24 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

CLOVE OIL Yields100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Grapeseed oil 100g 100%
Clove essential oil O.Sg 0.5% <D Combine and reserve.
from page 5·52

CINNAMON-SCENTED PEAJUICE Yields210 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet peas, frozen and 200g 100%
juiced <D Whisk together.
Cinnamon essential oil O.OSg 0.025% 0 Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h.
(optional) 0 Strain.
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste @) Season broth.
from page 5·275 ® Refrigerate until use.

CONDRIEU BUTTER Yields340 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
500%
Condrieu wine 750g 40% <D Vacuum reduce to 150 g, and reserve.
33% 0 Saute until tender, about10 min.
Shallots, thinly sliced 60g 67%
0 Deglaze shallots.
Clarified unsalted butter so g 100%
@) Remove from heat.
Lychee juice (fresh) 100g ® Strain.
® Whisk into deglazed shallots.
Condrieu reduction, 150g
from above 50% 0 Warm Condrieu butter base, and blend in cold butter
Unsalted butter, 75g
cold and cubed 10% until fully emulsified.
1Sg 0.03%
Osmanthus vinegar O.OSg ® Season.
Orange blossom
essential oil O.OSg 0.03%
Rose essential oil to taste
Salt
from page 5·172

GLAZED CARROT Yields120 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Young carrots (preferably 100 g <D Vacuum seal together.
Thumbelina), peeled 20% 0 Cook so us vide in 80 "CI 176 "Fbath for 40 min .
0 Cool, remove carrots from bag, and reserve.
Carotene butter (or 20g
regular butter)

see page 40

Mandarin juice 48g 48% @) Vacuum reduce (or reduce over heat) to glaze, about
45% 7min.
Valencia orange juice 4Sg 5%
0.1% ® Season glaze.
Honey Sg
® Stir in carrots and warm through.
Mandarin essential oil 0.1 g

Salt to taste

from page 5·186

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 25

MARINATED SPAGHETTI SQUASH YieldslSO g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Spaghetti squash 130g 100%
CD Steam until tender, abo ut 15 min.
Orange juice 24g 18 .5 % 0 Shred strands while sti ll hot.
8.5%
Honey vinegar 11 g 6.2% ®Cool and reserve refrigerated.
1.5%
0 Combine to make dressing.

® Marinate squash in dressingforlO min.

Extra virgin olive oil 8g

Sichuan peppercorns, 2g
coarsely ground

Orange zest, finely grated O.Sg 0.4%
0.01%
Acetaldehyde 0.015 g

Salt to taste

from page 5·149

HOW TO WASH CITRUS OIL EXTRACTING FLAVOR WITH ALCOHOL

CD Combine the ingredients in a separatory funnel with the stopcock CD Select and prepare ingred ient. The table Best Bets for Extracts on the next

closed. Use 10 parts essent ial oil, 40 parts distilled water, and 50 page suggests a number ofgood options.
parts pure alcoho l (either ethanol or Everclear), or use a high-proof
vodka that has been run through a water filter a few times in place of 0 Vacuum seal ingredient with neutral vodka . Quantities indicated in the table
both the water and the ethano l.
are proportional to the weight of the vodka. For examp le, use 25 g of chili for
0 Stopper the funnel and shake until the mixture becomes cloudy. everylOO gofalcohol.

® Let stand undisturbed until the mixture separates. The oil rises to the ® Infu se. Recommended infusing temperatures and times are listed in the
top. When the liquid is clear-after a day or even a week of resting- table. Some preparations benefit from cooking; for others, infusion at
the essence is ready. Longer time will yield a more intense extraction . refrigerator temperatures does a better job of capturing their delicate flavors.

0 Remove the stopper, open the stopcock, and drain the flavored 0 Sieve. Res eal, and refrigerate until needed.

water through a coffee filter. The filter will remove any waxes and ® Add recommended concentration of alcoho l extract to broth or sauce. For
impuriti es. Close the stopcock just before the oil starts to emerge. examp le add 4 g of brown butter extract for every 100 g of broth or sauce.
Adding more than 5% will make the alcoho l flavor perceptible.

BROWN BUTTER FUMET YieldslSO g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Brown fish stock 200g 100% CD Simmer together until reduced to 200 g.

see page 6 lSOg 75% @ Cool.
SOg 25%
Sake lOg 5% ® Whiskin.
Vermouth (dry) 8g 4%
Rice vinegar
Brown butter extract 0.3g 0.15%

see page 4-213 to taste 0 Season and se rve, or refrigerate until use.

Xanthan gum (Keltrol T,
CP Kelco brand)
Salt

from page 5·158

HAZELNUT OIL EXTRACT Yields300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
300g 100%
Roasted hazelnut oil CD Combine in separatory funnel.
300g 100% 0 Shake vigorously for 2 min.
see page 41 (or store-bought)
® Allow oil and alcohol to separate overnight.
Vodka
0 Decant alcohol from bottom offunnel.

® Use haze lnut oil-infused alcohol to season broths or sauces without adding fat.

from page 2·321

26 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

Best Bets for Extracts (scaling)* Infuse Example See page
1% concentration** Example use 46
Ingredient 100% (OC) nl (h) 42,297
bay leaf, fresh 100% 14
brown butter, melted 25% 60 140 4 5% fish sauce, broth 5·101
butter, melted 5%
chili (dry), crushed 27% 65 149 5 4% vegetable broth 46
cinnamon stick, crushed 20%
citrus zest, finely grated 20% 65 149 3 4% popcorn broth
coffee bean, ground 5% refrigerate 24
corianderseed,crushed 25% 2% Sichuan-style broth
fennel seed 100%
ginger, thinly sliced 7% 60 140 4 3%-4% meat sauce
roasted hazelnut oil 10%
nutmeg, grated 1% so 122 3 3% fish sauce, broth
rosemary
saffron threads 5% refrigerate 12 3% meat sauce, red-eye gravy
star anise, crushed 10%
thyme leaf 5% 60 140 3 5% seafood sauce
vanilla bean, split
3 37 24 3%-4% pork broth, Parmesan jus

60 140 4 3% Chinese broth

65 149 3 8% root vegetable broth
refrigerate 24
2%-3% guinea fowl consomme

refrigerate 24 1.5%-2.5% lamb broth, lamb jus

refrigerate 24 0.6% cream sauce

60 140 4 4% oxtail consomme
60 140 4
refrigerate 24 3%-4% beurre blanc

3% sauce or broth of foie gras
or lean fish

from page 2·326 *(set weight ofvodka to 700%) **(set weight ofbroth or sauce to 700%)

HOUSE BITTERS Yields500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Vodka 500g 100%
Kumquat, thinly sliced 40g 8% CD Combine.
Burdock root 12g 2.4% 0 Seal in glass bottle with airtight lid.
Vanilla beans, halved 12g 2.4%
Orange zest lOg 2% ® Shake bottle twice a week for 4 wk.
Gentian flowers 6g 1.2%
Cinnamon 5g 1% 0 Pour mixture through fine sieve into sterilized bottle.
Cloves 3g 0.6%
Heather tips 2g 0.4%
Anise seeds 1.5g 0.3%
from page 2·327

FINES HERBS EXTRACT YieldslOO g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Vodka lOOg 100%
Chervil, thinly sliced 33g 33% CD Combine and vacuum seal.
Chives 33 g 33% 0 Refrigerate for 24 h to steep.
Parsley leaves, whole 33 g 33%
Tarragon, crushed 15g 15% ® Strain through fine filter.
from page 2·327
0 Add 2%-5% of extract to season broth or sauce, or

reseal and refrigerate until use.

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 27

INFUSING FLAVOR INTO A FAT

@ Wash and dry all produce thoroughly to prevent contamination of the fat. 0 Place food in bag into an ultrasonic bath for15 min to 1 h (optional).

0 Vacuum seal ingredient with fat. The table Best Bets for Infused Fats Ultrasonic treatment enhances extraction and should be done while the
food is still hot. Use the same bath temperature used for infusion or the
below lists many good combinations. Quantities are proportional to the highest setting possible. Or use a so us vide bath that has ultrasonic
weight of the fat. When making coffee butter, for example, add 55 g of capability to do the infusion.
coffee beans for every 100 g of butter.
® Sieve, and then refrigerate. Do not sieve truffle or other infusions in which
® Cook so us vide to infuse the fat. Recommended temperatures and times the flavorful flecks are desirable.
are given in the table.

Best Bets for Infused Fats This recipe works with crab, crawfish, shrimp, prawn,
and lobster of all varieties. It is a culinary classic that
dates to traditional French cuisine.

Ingredient (scaling)* Fat Cook sous vide, Example use See page
cured ham, thinly sliced 40% peanut oil or infuse cold add to XO sauce, season fresh melon next page
dried chili, crushed 3% sunflower oil poach fish , season sauteed broccoli 350
cocoa nib, crushed 40% sunflower oil 70 158 8 garnish sashimi 5 ·211
coffee beans, whole 55% unsalted 70 158 24 garnish sea urchin, shellfish, lemon risotto
butter 65 149 6 next page
garlic, thinly sliced 50% olive oil 70 158 12
fresh ginger, thinly sliced 45% sunflower oil
90 194 4 garnish pizza, roasted potatoes
lberico ham fat, thinly 75% olive oil
sliced puree until smooth garnish steamed fish
langoustine (or other 125% unsalted
shellfish) shell, crushed to butter 70 158 3
a fine paste and roasted 20%
thyme leaves 90 194 20 min serve warm, blend into ham broth, garnish
grilled peaches or watermelon

88 154 5 poach shellfish, blend into shellfish sauces

grapeseed oil 55 131 45min season cooked fish and shellfish, finish lemon
risotto

lemon zest, finely grated 45% grapeseed oil 60 140 2 garnish salads and fish
makrud (kaffir) lime leaf, 15% grapeseed oil 3 37 24 drizzle over grilled fish, brush on pork cutlets next page
sliced
16% olive oil 80 176 1 mix into vinaigrette
fresh mint, thinly sliced 50%
molasses unsalted 80 176 20 min fry sweetbreads or foie gras next page
adapted from Michel Bras butter
refrigerate for 4 d
after cooking

dry porcini 50% sunflower oil 70 158 1 blend into game broth
rosemary 10%
rose petal, untreated 80% olive oil 80 176 1 drizzle over roast lamb

truffle, minced 30% sweet apricot 55 131 1',4 make salad dressing, beurre blanc for fish
oil

unsalted 55 131 1 garnish poached scallops or artichokes
butter ultrasonic 15 min
bath

from page 2-329 *(set weight offat to 700%)

28 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL

SHELLFISH BUTTER QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Yields400g
500 g 100% Yi e lds400g
INGREDIENT CD Vacuum seal together.
Crustacean heads, bodies, and shells, 400 g 80% 0 Cook so us vide in 88 oc I 190 °Fbath fo r 5 h.
finely crushed or ground
Clarified unsalted butter ® Remove from bag, a nd coo l at room temperature.

0 Refrigerate for 12 h.

® Heat mixture to me lt.

® Strain; discard heads.

0 Decant butter.

® Vacuum sea l, and refrige rate until use.

from page 2·329

SOUS VIDE LEMON HERB OIL

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Grapeseed oil 400g 100%
Lemongrass, thinly sliced BOg 20% CD Combine.
Lemon thyme leaves 50 g 12.5% 0 Vacuum sea l.
Lemon balm leaves 20g 5%
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaves 20g 5% ® Cook so us vide in 60 oc l 140 °Fbath for 1V2 h.

0 Chill and refrigerate for 12 h.

® Strain.

® Refrigerate until use.

from page 2·330

SPICED CHILl OIL ADAPTED FROM JEAN -GEORGES VONGERICHTEN Yields1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Grapeseed oil or other neutral oil 1 kg 18% CD Vacuum sea l together.
3% 0 Cook so us vide in 70 oc I 158 °Fbath for 24 h.
Chipotle chilies, thinly sliced 180 g 3%
3% ® Cool and refrigerate for12 h.
Coriander seeds, toasted and crushed 30 g 3%
2% @ Strain.
Mace, crushed 30 g 1.2% ® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

Dry red chilies, crushed 30 g

Star anise, crushed 30 g

Cinnamon sticks, toasted and crushed 20 g

Fennel seeds, toasted and crushed 12g

from page 2·330

MOLASSES BUTTER ADAPTED FROM MICHEL BRAS Yields200 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Unsalted butter, melted 200g 200%
Molasses 100g 100% CD Blend together.
0 Transfer mixture to mason jar, and seal.
® Place sea led mason jar in 85 oc I 185 °Fbath for 30 min.
0 Remove jar from bath, and take off lid.

® Rest in jar at room temperatu re for 30 min to allow butte r and molasses to separate.

® Pour butter into sealable container, and discard molasses.

0 Se al, and refrigerate infused butterfor4 d.

® Decant butter, and refrigerate for use.

from page 2·331

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 29

CURRY OIL ADAPTED FROM THOMAS KELLER Yields 1 kg

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
9%
Coriander seeds, 90g CD Toast separate ly in sma ll pans until just fragrant.
toasted and crushed 3.5% 0 Remove from heat.

Cinnamon stick, crushed 35 g

Canolaoil 1 kg 100% ® Blend fully with toasted sp ices.
or other neutral oil @) Vacuum seal.
140 g 14%
Chaat masala ® Cook so us vide in 90 ' C I 194 ' Fbath for 1 h.
see page 50 30g 3%
15g 1.5% ® Refrigerate for12 h.
Cayenne pepper
0 Strain.
Mace
® Repackage, and refrigerate until use.

from page 2·331

CRAB OIL QUANTITY SCALING Yields400g
400g 200% PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT 200g 100%
Frying oil CD Deep-fry crab parts in 175 ' C I 350 ' Foil for 1 h to
Crab shell and liver
infuse.
from page 5·190
0 Stra in through fine sieve.

® Cool, and reserve in dry place.

MALAYSIAN AROMATIC OIL Yields500 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Grapeseed oil 350g 40% CD Combine, and simmer until oil is deep red and heavily

Tomatoes, peeled and 140g 21.5% saturated with a rom atics, about 45 min .
seeded 19 % @ Cool.
11.5% ® Vacuum seal.
Red shallots, thinly sli ced 75g @) Refrigerate for12 h to finish infusion.
3% ® Strain through fine sieve.
Sweet onions, sliced 65g 3%
2%
Sichuan chilies, seeded 40g 0 .7%
and crushed

Garlic, pounded to paste lOg

Shrimp paste (be lacan) lOg

Ginger, grated 7.5 g

Redbird's eye chili, 2.5 g
thinly sliced

from page 5·168

30 VOlUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUAl

Additives to Preserve the Color and Flavor of Fresh Juice

Function Ingredient (scaling) Note
ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 0.1%-0.3% works best with citric acid
inhibits citric acid 0.5%-2.0% these fruit acids interfere with browning enzymes directly and by lowering
browning, malic acid pH; they work best in conjunction with ascorbic acid
preserves color tartaric acid 10% or more
oxalic acid 0.05%-0.1 % high concentratio ns have preservative effects
honey use only for foods with a pH :5 4.5; maximum permitted quantity is 0.1 %;
sodium benzoate slows both browning and bacterial and fungal growth
most effective at 0.03%; unpleasant flavor above 0.05%
restores or sodium metabisulfite 0.01%-0.05%
preserves flavor (Campden tablets) 5%-10% add just-squeezed juice before serving to produce fresh volatile aromatics
fresh juice 0.001%-1% that refres h the flavor in some juices
add a few drops of the appropriate citrus esse ntial oil just before serving to
essential oil replenish natural oils from the peel and restore fresh flavor
antioxidants such as vitamin C and vitamin Ehelp protect aromas from the
alpha tocopherol (vitamin E) 0.025%- ravages of oxidation
0.05%

from page 2·339

MEYER LEMONADE Yields325g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Meyer lemon juice
300g 100% 0 Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h.
0 Decant juice and strain through fine sieve.
Fructose 30g 10% Always add the essential oil just
Citric acid 1.5g 0.5% ® Whisk into clarified juice until dissolved and before serving. The acidity of the
Gum arabic 5g 1.7% reserve. juice will destroy the essence. This
Water 2g 1% is why the best quality citrus oils are
l emo n essential oil 0.12g 0.04% 0 Blend together until fully emuls ified. made by removing the peel before
(seven drops) co ld pressing so there is no chance
® Add 1.5 g of emulsion to sweetened juice. for the acid ic fruit juice to damage
® Hand-blend until smooth. the peel oil.

0 Strain through fine sieve.

® Chill before serving.

from page 2·340

MELON WATER QUANTITY SCALING Yields100 g The flavor of melon is created by
lOOg 100% enzymatic reactions duringjuicing.
INGREDIENT (from 200 g of PROCEDURE The fresh flavor can be reinvigo-
Melon juice melon) 5% rated by adding a small amount of
2.5% 0 Whisk together and season to taste. fresh melon juice to the batch just
Fructose 5g 0.5% 0 Centrifuge at 27,500g forl h. before to serving.
lime juice 2.5g
Tartaric acid 0.5g ® Decant only clear juice.
Salt to taste
from page 2·340 0 Vacuum seal, a nd refrige rate until use.

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 31

PEN SHELL CLAM, PLUOT, MYOGA, SCALLOP MOCHI Yields 650 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pluots (or red plums) 400g 200%
CD Juice.
Malic acid 2g 1% 0 Clarify juice using preferred method.

White soy sauce to taste ® Measure 200 g.

Pen shell clams, shucked 200g 100% 0 Season juice.

Scallop mochi 60 g (four pieces, ® Refrigerate.
see page345 15 g each) ® Measure and refrigerate.

Freeze-dried scallop 28g 14% 0 Measure and reserve indi vidually.
powder
(optional, see page 58) ® Dust pen shell clams w ith scallop powder, if using, and then sear in oil over high heat for1 min.
® Season, and allow to rest at room temperature.
Frying oil as needed
@ Deep-fry scallop mochi in 190 oc I 375 °Foil until puffed, about 2 min, and then optionally,
Ginger oil 20g 10%
see page 20 season w ith scallop powder.
@ Toss pluot and myoga with small amount of seasoned pluot juice.
Salt to taste @ Arrange pen shell clams and pluot slices on each plate.
@ Garnish with scallop mochi.
Dinosaur Pluot (or red 20g 10%
plum), thinly sliced 12g 6%

Myoga, fine julienne

@ Pour additional pluot juice at table.

from page 5·202

SOUS VIDE BERRY JUICE Yields 50 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Blackberries (fresh) 100g 7% CD Comb in e.
5% 0 Vacuum seal sweetened berry mixture.
Sugar 7g ® Cook so us vid e in 65 oc I 149 oF bath for1 h.
0 Remove from bag, and cool at room
This process works equally well for Iso malt 5g
blueberries, raspberries, and temperature.
strawberries.
® Stra in through fine sieve; discard pulp.

® Chill before serving.

from page 2·340

STRAWBERRY CONSOMME Yields 265 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Strawberry juice 100%
250g 0 Centrifuge at 27,500gfor1 h.
Fructose (from about 6%
Malic acid 400g 0.5% 0 Season, and refrigerate until use.
strawberries)

15.5 g

1.25 g

from page 5·278

32 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

GREEN ASPARAGUS AND MORELS WITH ASPARAGUS JUS Yi e lds 650 g (four portions)

ADAPTED FROM JEAN- GEORGES VONGERICHTEN

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pencil gree n aspa ragus, unp ee led 200g 80%
0 juice w ith Champ ion -style juicer.
0 Measure 50 g for recipe.

Asparagus juice, from above SOg 20% ® Whisk asco rbi c acid imm ediately into fresh juice to prevent browning.
Ascorbic acid 0.4g
0.16% 0 Vacuum sea l.
(0.8%)*
® Refrigerate.

jumbo gree n aspa ragus, stalks peeled 250g 100% ® Saute for 3 min on a ll sid es until just tende r and go ld en.
Clarified unsa lted butter see page 4·213 (e ight stalks) 10%
0 Remove from heat, and reserve.
25g

jumbo green aspa ragus, stalks peeled 250 g 100% ® Vacuum seal.
(e ight sta lks) ® Cook so us vid e in 85 oc / 185 oFbath for 12 min, imm ed iate ly remove from bag,
Clarified unsalted butter 10%
Morels, thoroughly washed 25g 48% and reserve.
120g @ Meanwh il e, sweat together for 5 min un til te nd er and just cooked through.

Unsalted butter SOg 20%

Shallot, fin e ly minced 30 g 12%

Vin jaune (o r Fino she rry) 25g 10% @ Add to morels, and cook for 3 min.

Heavy cream lSg 6%
BOg
Instant holl anda ise 32% @ Warm to 65 oc I 149 °F.
see page305
@ Dispense from sip ho n, and fo ld in to morels.

@ Set aside, and keep wa rm.

Asparagus puree SOg 20% @ Warm prepared asparagus juice over medium heat.
see page 55 @ W hi sk in puree.

Unsalted butter lOg 4% @ W hi sk in to warm thickened jus until fu ll y em ul sifi ed.

Lim e juice to taste @ Season jus.

Salt to taste

Flaky sea salt to taste @ Reheat reserved asparagus sta lks.

® Season.

@ Place two so us vide cooked stalks and two pan fr ied sta lks in center.

Chive blossoms (or finely minced chives) 10 g 4% @ Ga rni sh w ith warm morels a nd b lossoms.

@ Pour jus around plates at table.

from page 2·341 *(% oftotal weight ofasparagus juice)

STRAWBERRY GAZPACHO Yields850 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
100% CD Prepare ingredients as noted, blanching on io ns if
Strawberri es, sli ced 560g 25 % Preparing gazpacho in
needed, to remove sulfurous notes.
Cucumb er, peeled, 140g 20.5% aadvance? Create Ia
seeded, a nd sli ced 0 Vacuum seal together.
20.5% minute flavor with this
Red bell pepper, steamed forlO min, llSg 9% ® Macerate in refrigeratorfor12 h. trick from Heston
peeled, a nd thinly sli ced 3.5% Blumenthal. At the last
2 .5% 0 Blend to fine puree. minute, juice a sma ll
Sweet onions, thi nl y sli ced 115g 0.5% amount of the principle
12% ® Pass gazpacho through fine sieve. ingred ient-whether red
Extra virgin olive o il 50g cabbage, tomatoes, or
2.7% ® Add to gazpacho. strawberries-then add it
Wh ite balsamic vi nega r 20 g 0.7% to the existing gazpac ho.
0.4% 0 Serve, or vacuum seal and refrigerate until use. Enzymes already present
Balsamic vinegar 13g in the so up attack com-
ponents ofthe added
Garlic clove, crushed 2g juice and rapidly regener-
ate some ofthe aromas
Strawberry consomme 65g lost over time. The fresh
see page 32 flavor comes right back.

Lime juice 15g

Wh ite balsam ic vinegar 4g

Malic acid 2g

Black pepper to taste

Salt to taste

from page 5·278

THE MO DER NI ST KITCHEN 33

MAKING JUS

Best Bets for Jus

Recipe liquid (scaling) Protein (scaling) Aromatic (scaling)
beefjuice ground beef 100% not applicable
beefjus not applicable ground beef 35% carrot, thinly sliced 12%
chicken juice oxtail, jointed 15% onion, thinly sliced 10%
brown chicken jus brown beef stock 100% ground chicken 100% not applicable
ground chicken wing 15% shallot, thinly sliced 20%
mushroom jus red wine 30% chicken foot 8% dried morel 5.0%

mussel jus not applicable not applicable
pork and Banyuls
roasting jus brown chicken stock 100%
rare beefjus
rare salmon jus chicken juice (from 40%
shellfish jus above)

vegetable jus fino sherry 20% thyme 0.1%
crimini mushroom, thinly 75%
from page 2·344 mushroom stock 100% sliced
shallot, thinly sliced 20%
fino sherry 20% mussels 100% white miso 7.0%
white port 10% thyme 0.1%
tamari 1% 75% shallot 10%
white wine 10% 10% bay leaf 0.01%
sweet onion, thinly sliced 8%
brown pork stock 100% ground pork shoulder carrot, thinly sliced 7%
Banyuls wine 25% ground pork trotter skin
and meat
water 5% beef, cubed 100% not applicable
salmon fillet, cubed 100% not applicable
water 5% shellfish heads 100% tarragon extract
white pepper
shellfish stock 40% not applicable 1.5%
to taste
white wine 38%

vermouth 13%

onion juice, clarified 100% not applicab le

carrot juice, clarified 80%

celery juice, clarified 55%

leek juice, clarified 30%

JUS DE LA PRESSE INSPIRED BY ALAIN DUCASSE Yields350 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lobster heads
600g 100% CD Saute until shells are golden and very aromatic, about 10 min.
Clarified unsalted butter 0 Baste constantly with butter to cook through .
(about four heads)
White wine (dry) ® Place heads in basket of wine press.
Lobster stock 60g 10%
see page 6 0 Extract juices by crushing shells complete ly with wine press.
Cognac 200g 33%
Lobster roe 120g 20% ® Combine with extracted lobster juices.
Unsalted butter ® Reduce lobster juice by half.
O live oil 30g 5%
Lemon juice 80g 13% 0 Blend with warm reduction until fully emulsified.
Salt 80g 13%
from page 2·347 35 g 6% ® Season.
to taste
to taste

34 VO LUME 6 ·K ITCHE N MAN UAL

Method Cook (psi) (oC) (oF) (h) See page CD Select a recipe from Best Bets for jus.
cook so us vide (bar) 40 0 If cooking so us vide, vacuum seal the liquids, proteins, and
pressure cook 90 194 Jl/2
15 Jl/2 aromatics together. Otherwise combine ingredients in a
pressure cooker. Quantities are proportional to whichever
cook so us vide 90 194 ingredient (usually the protein or the stock) is set to 100%. For
brown meat and bones, 15 example, use 38 g of wine and 13 g of vermouth for every 100 g
pressure cook of heads when making shellfish jus.

pressure cook 15 25 37 ® Cook. Recommended cooking methods, temperatures, and
min times are indicated in the table. Pressures given are gauge
pressures.

0 Press, strain, or sieve.

® Season. For seasoning options, see Best Bets for Lowering pH on
page 22, Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor Enhancers on
page 21, and Best Bets for Adding Flavor with Alcohol on
page24.

cook sous vide 100 212 4 min 294

brown meat and bones, 15 Jl/2 5·17
pressure cook
53 127 4 40
cook so us vide 5·161
cook so us vide so 122
cook sous vide
88 190 Jl/2
cook sous vide
85 185 3

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 35

ROOT VEGETABLE JUS Yields350 g
Yields 750 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Salmon belly, trimmed 200g 200%
0 Vacuum seal.
Turnip juice 270g 270% 0 Cook so us vide in 43 •c I 109 ' Fbath forl h.
(from400g
Rutabaga juice turnips) ® Strain through fine sieve, and measure 100 g of salmon juice.
@ Refrigerate.
Celery root juice 115g 115% ® Vacuum seal together.
(from 300 g
Sweet onion juice rutabagas) ®Cook so us vide in 85 •c I 185 ' F bath for 3 h.
Leek juice
Parsnip juice 75 g 75% 0 Strain through fine sieve.
(from 150 g ce lery
Strained salmon juice, root) ® Redu ce to 200 g.
from above
Cold-smoked butter SOg 50% ® Stir into vegetable juice reduction.
(from 120 g onions) @ Blend in smoked butter until fully emulsified.
see page244 @ Season with lim e jui ce a nd salt.
30g 30%
Lime juice (from 90 g leeks)
Sa lt
from page 5·163 15g 15%
(from 65 g
pars nips)

lOOg 100%

70g 70%

to taste
to taste

SOUS VIDE VEGETABLE JUS

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Yellow onions, thinly sliced 400g 67.5% 0 Prepare vegetables as noted .
0 Combine, and vacuum seal.
Carrot, peeled and 270g 40% ® Cook so us vide in 85 ·c I 185 ' F bath for 3 h.
thinly sliced 30%
@ Strain through fine sieve, and cool.
Water 160g 30%
® To serve, heat stock to 85 ' C I 185 ' F.
Celery, peeled and 120g 11 %
thin ly sliced ® Blend in butter until fully emu lsified.

Leek, white only, 120g 0 Season.
thinly sliced (from 275 g peeled lee ks)

Unsalted butter, cubed 45g

Lemon juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 2·347

CLAM JUICE QUANTITY SCALING Yields 175 g
475g 100%
INGREDIENT PROCEDURE
Clams, rinsed and lOg 2%
soaked to remove sand 0.3g 0.06% 0 Combine.
Shallots, minced 0 .1 g 0.02% 0 Vacuum seal.
Thym e
Bay leaf ® Steam or boil for 3 min until clams have just released
their juices.

@ Cool.
® Strain juices and reserve. Solids can a lso be reserved

for another use.

from page 5·230

36 VO LU ME 6 ·K I TC HEN MAN UAL

LAMB GARLIC JUS IN AJAR Yields300 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Lamb trim, ground 1 kg 9% 0 Pan fry ground lamb until go ld en.
30% 0 Reserve meat and 10 g of rendered fat.
Frying oil 90g
20% ® Prepare vegetables as noted.
Carrots, peeled and thinly 300g 15%
sl iced 12.5% 0 Saute together in saucepan with reserved lamb fat, until tender.
5%
Shallots, thinly sliced 200g 5%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 150g 2.5%
0 .3%
Fennel, thinly sliced 125 g 50%
20%
Garlic, peeled and thinly sliced 50 g 0.5%
0.2%
Red bell pepper, thinly sliced SOg

Tomato paste 25 g ® Add to vegetab les, and increase heat to high.
® Stir mixture continuous ly until golden brown and fragrant, about 3 min.
Star anise, crushed 3g
0 Deglaze pot, and stir in browned meat.
Water SOOg
® Remove from heat.
White wine 200g
® Divide mixture equally between two mason jars.
Thyme Sg
@ Seal jars, and place on rack in pressure cooker.
Bay leaf 2g
@ Fill cooker with water to cover bottom 2.5 em I 1 in of jars.
Lemon juice to taste @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar I 15 psi for 1'/2 h.
Salt to taste
from page 2·348 @ Remove jars from cooker, remove lids, and cool jus to room temperature.
@ Strain stock.
@ Reduce strained stock until thickened, about 12 min, and season .

MUSHROOM JUS QUANTITY SCALING Yields270 g
150g 60% PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT
Crimini mushrooms, 40g 16% 0 Saute mushrooms and shal lots together in butter until deep golden brown, about
thinly sliced 25g 10%
Shallots, thinly sliced 200g 80% 12 min.
Clarified unsalted butter 16%
Mushroom stock 40g 8% 0 Combine with cooked mushroom mixture in pressure cooker.
see page 6 20g 100% ® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for 25 min .
Fino sherry 5.6% 0 Strain through fine sieve, and discard solids.
White port (dry) 0.8%
0.8% ® Measure 250 g of mushroom jus.
Mushroom jus, from above 250g 0.3% ® Blend together until dissolved.
White miso 14g
Tamari soy sauce 2g SCALING 0 Strain.
Thyme 2g 100%
Konjacgum 0.75g ® Season.
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
from page 2·348

SOUS VIDE MUSSEL JUICE Yields100 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY PROCEDURE Mussel juice is classically used to
accentuate the flavor of seafood
Mussels, rinsed thoroughly 1 kg 0 Vacuum sea l in one even layer. broths and sauces. This so us vide
with beards removed 0 Steam for 4 min. method extracts the juices from
the mussels without overcooking
® Shock in ice-water bath. them so the meat can be used as
a garn ish for cooked fish (see page
0 Shuck, and reserve meat for another use. 5·151). Inspect mussels carefu ll y and
discard any dead or sandy she llfi sh.
® Strain rendered mussel juices from bag and These can spoil the juice.
shells.

® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.

from page 2·346

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 37

TOASTED OAT JUS Yields250g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
87%
Pigeon carcass 650g 27% CD Roast in 175 oc I 350 oFoven until golden, about 35 min.
40%
Pigeon wings 200g 6% 0 Saute onions until translucent.

Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300g 1.3% ® Add garlic, and saute for 5 min.

Grapeseed oil 45g 100% 0 Combine with roasted carcass, wings, and onion mixture.

Garlic, thinly sliced lOg 40% ® Bring mixture to simmer.
8.7% ® Skim surface.
Brown pigeon stock 750g 6.7%
300g 4% 0 Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar 1 15 psi for1 Y2 h.
see page 6
® Strain, and reduce to 250 g.
Red wine (dry)

Rendered foie gras fat 65g

Cognac 50g

Steel-cut oats, rinsed to 30g
remove surface starch

Sherry vinegar 20g 2.7%
1.7%
Sugar 13g 0.25%
100%
Black peppercorns 2g
10 %
Reduced oat jus, 250g 3% ® Combine.
from above 2% @ Simmer for 25 min.
1% @ Season.
Pancetta 25g 0.1% ® Strain through fine sieve, and serve or refrigerate until use.

Cognac 7.5 g

Sherry vinegar 5g

Salt 2.5g

Black peppercorns 0.25g

from page 5·133

BANYULS GLAZE Yields300 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
100% CD Coat meats with oil.
Ground pork 2.25 kg 22% 0 Roast in 190 oc I 375 °Foven until golden brown, stirring frequently to ensure even browning.

Pork trotter, bone in, 500g 10% ® Remove browned meat from pan, reserving fat.
finely ground 22%
0 Sweat vegetables in pressure cooker with reserved fat until tender.
Frying oil 225g

Sweet onions, peeled 500g
and thinly sliced

Carrots peeled, 450g 20%
thinly sliced

Water 1.2 kg 50% ® Deglaze vegetables.
18%
Brown pork stock 400g
16%
see page 6

Banyuls wine (or other 350g
semisweet red wine)

Bay leaf(fresh) 4.5g 0.2% ® Add with browned meat to vegetables in cooker.

Banyuls vinegar (or other 50 g 2% 0 Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1.4 bar I 21 psi for 1Y2 h.
semisweet red vinegar) 2%
® Cool and strain.
® Reduce to glaze.
@ Blend in butter and vinegar until fully emulsified.
@ Season.

Unsalted butter 50 g

Salt to taste

from page 5·19

38 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL

TAGINE BASE Yields150 g
39
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced lOOg 25% CD Saute onions until translucent.
325% 0 Add to onions, and bring mixture to simmer.
Neutral oil 25g
21 % ® Reduce by half, about 20 min.
Brown chicken stock 325g 10%
see page6 9% 0 Whisk into reduction and adjust seasoning.
9%
Ginger juice 21 g 5% ® Serve or cool, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
3.5%
Water lOg 1%
8.5%
Garlic, thinly sliced 9g

Lemon juice 9g

Clear honey 5g

Salt 3.5 g

Cinnamon, freshly ground lg

Preserved lemon peel, 8.5g
brunoise
see page 174

Pickled fig, small dice 6g 6%
see page177

Saffron threads lg 1%

from page 5·137

SQUASH GLAZE Yields150 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Butternut squash juice lOOg 17%
(from 400 g CD Combine.
Sweet onion juice squash) 17% 0 Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
lOOg
Carrot juice (from200g ® Strain through fine sieve to clarify.
onions)
White veal stock 50g 8.5%
seepage6 (from 200 g
Shank cookingjuices carrots) 100% 0 Combine with strained vegetable juice, and blend
see page 276 600g 17%
Tomato confit 1.2% until smooth.
see page 179 lOOg 4% ® Reduce to 150 g.
Unsalted butter, cubed 2.5%
Extra virgin olive oil 7g ® Blend in butter and oil until fully emulsified.
Lemon juice
Salt 25g 0 Season glaze.
from page 5·63 15g
to taste
to taste

SOUS VIDE PRAWN JUS Yields250 g

INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Prawn heads 400g 100%
160g 40% CD Combine.
Shellfish stock 20% 0 Grind coarsely in food processor.
see page 6 80 g
Vermouth (dry) 1.5% ® Vacuum seal.

Tarragon extract 6g 0 Cook so us vide in 88 ' C I 190 ' Fbath for1Y2 h.
see page27
to taste ® Strain through fine sieve.
Salt to taste @ Whiskin.
Wh ite pepper
from page 2·347 0 Season.

THE MODERNIST KITCHEN