BRAISED TURNIPS WITH SAFFRON Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Turnips, peeled and cut to 250 g CD Vacuum seal together.
0 Cook so us vide in 85 oc I 185 °Fbath for 35 min.
slices 5 mm I Y.. in thick
® Serve, or refrigerate until use.
Water 100g 40%
Saffron threads 2g 0.8%
Salt 2g 0.8%
from page 5·123
GLAZED PEARL ONION Yields230 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pearl onions, blanched 100g 111 %
and peeled CD Prepare onions as directed.
Water 90g 100% 0 Vacuum seal onions w ith other ingredients.
Champagne vinegar 30 g 33% ® Cook so us vid e in 85 oc I 185 °Fbath for1 h.
Honey 7g 8%
Salt 3g 3.5% @ Cool in ice-water bath.
Neutral oil as needed ® Refrigerate until use .
® To serve, drain pea rl onions, cut in half through stem ends, and pat dry.
0 Sear pearl onions in oil, cut sides only, until surfaces a re golden and onions are just warmed,
about3 min.
from page 5·263
POTATO SALAD Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fingerling potatoes 400g 100%
Salt Sg 1.25% CD Toss together.
0 Cook so us vide in 88 oc 1 190 oFbath for about 30 min. (Cooking time wil l depend on size of
Creme frakhe SOg 12.5%
5% potatoes.)
Muscat vinegar 20g 3.75% ® Cool in ice-water bath.
1% @ Cut into halves or quarters, depending on size, and reserve.
® Whisk together.
® Mix gently with cut potatoes.
Walnut oil 1Sg
French whole-grain 4g
mustard
Salt 2g 0.5%
0.5 %
Sugar 2g 20%
Egg yolk, cooked so us vide, BOg 0 Fold gently into potato sa lad .
at 68 oc I 154 °Ffor 35 min,
cooled and quartered
Pickled pearl onions, petals 48 g 12%
see page 182 0.75%
0.5%
Celery leaves, thinly sl iced 3 g
10%
Coriander seeds, toasted 2 g
and crushed 50%
3.75%
Scallions, 40g ® Saute sca lli ons over medium heat until tender.
whites only (four pieces) ® Arrange on potato sa lad.
@ Toss potato skins with starch.
Potato skins 200g
Potato starch 1Sg @ Fry in 180 oc I 360 °Foil until golden and crisp, about 3 min.
Frying oil as needed
Salt to taste @ Toss with salt.
from page 5·73 @ Serve with potato salad.
140 VOLUME 6 ·KITCH EN MANUAL
FRESH BEAN SALAD Yields1oog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Yields80 g
100%* Yieldsl2Sg
Fava beans, shelled and 2Sg CD Vacuum seal peas and each type of bean individually.
peeled 0 Cook so us vide in 88 oc I 190 °Fbath for 20 min, or to desired doneness.
English peas, shelled and 20g ® Cool in ice-water bath.
peeled
@ Cut beans crossw ise into 2.5 em I 1 in pieces.
Romano beans, trimmed lSg
® Combine.
Green beans, trimmed 14g
® Refrigerate until use.
Yellow wax beans, 14g
trimmed
Purslane leaves 7g 8% 0 Measure ingredients individually.
8%
Roasted hazelnut o il 7g 5 .7 % ® Toss with cold beans and peas.
Vermouth vinegar(or Sg
other sem isweet
wh ite vinegar)
Scallion, thinly sliced 4g 4.5%
3.4%
Lime juice 3g
Black pepper to taste ® Season sa lad.
Salt to taste
from page 5·87 *(700% is the total weight ofall beans used)
SWEET-AND-SOUR CIPOLLINE ONION
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cipolline onion, peeled lOOg 100%
White wine vinegar 55 g 55% CD Vacuum seal together.
Chestnut honey 29 g 29% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 °Fbath forl h 50 min .
Neutral oil 2Sg 25%
Water lOg 10% ® Remove from bag and drain.
Salt l.Sg 1.5%
Neutra l oil as needed @ Cut onions in half horizontally, and sear until golden.
from page5·19
CARROT AND DILL FRICASSEE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Carrots, peeled llOg 100%
Extra virgin olive oil lOg 9% CD Halve carrots lengthwise, and core.
0 Cut into half-moons 5 mm I V. in thick.
Unsalted butter lOg 9%
1.8% ® Vacuum seal with oil.
Ajowan seeds 2g 1.8%
1.8% @ Cook so us vide in 85 oc I 185 °Fbath for 40 min.
® Combine remaining ingredients, and warm through in small pot.
® Stir in cooked carrots and season.
Dill 2g
Semisweet vinegar 2g
(honey or white balsamic)
Salt to taste
from page 5·1 64
PLANT FOODS 141
SOUS VIDE LENTILS Yields 650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
34%
Carrots, thinly sliced 120g 34% 0 Prepare vegetables as noted.
23% 0 Place vegetables and aromatics together in sachet.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 120g 20%
14% 0 Combine, add sachet, and cook so us vide in 90 ' C I 194 ' Fbath for1 h 15 min.
Shallots, thinly sliced 80g 7% 0 Discard sachet, and rest lentils at room temperature for 30 min.
0.8%
Leeks, thinly sliced 70g 0.6% ® Cool in ice-water bath, and refrigerate until use.
0.6% ® To serve, fold into cooked lentil s.
Celery, thinly sliced 50g 286%
100%
Garlic, thinly sliced 25g
4.8%
Thyme sprig 3g 1.5%
Bay leaf 2g
Black peppercorns 2g
Distilled water lkg
French green le ntils, 350g
soaked in cold water for 2 h
Salt 17g
Cherry vinaigrette 5g
see page 5·270
Green hazelnuts, thinly 90g 26% 0 Garnish dressed lent il s.
sliced
Black radish, small dice 15g 4%
4%
Chervil tops 15g 4%
1.5%
Frisee tops 15g
Chamomile blossoms 5g
(fresh)
from page 5·271
SOUS VIDE GREEN ASPARAGUS Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Green asparagus, 200 g 0 Vacuum sea l a ll ingred ients together.
0 Cook so us vide in 85 ' C 1 185 ' F bath forlO min.
stalks peeled
(about1.5 em I o/o in thick)
Water 20g 10%
5%
Extra virgin olive oil lOg 1%
Salt 2g
from page 5·149
SOUS VIDE ARTICHOKE Yields1oog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
200%
Water 200g 100% 0 Vacuum seal together.
0 Cook so us vide in 90 ' C I 194 ' F bath fo r 45 min.
Baby artichokes, peeled, 100g 0 Slice artichokes and serve, or cool and refrigerate until use.
and chokes and tough (four pieces)
leaves discarded
Yellow onion, thinly sliced 25g 25 %
15%
Carrot, peeled a nd thinly 15g
sli ced
Lemon peel 5.5 g 5.5%
2.5%
Salt 2.5g 1%
1%
Ascorbic acid 1g 0.5%
0.5%
Thyme 1g 0.2%
Black coriander seeds 0.5g
Black peppercorns 0.5g
Bay leaf 0.2g
from page 5·244
142 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
VARIATION: Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat
CD Select and prep. See the table below for suggestions and prep steps. ® Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
table below.
0 Add fat, and vacuum seal. The fat co lumn in the table indicates the kind
and quantity that work best. Proportions are relative to the weight of the
vegetable. For examp le, add 20 g of olive oil to the so us vide bag for
every100 goftrimmed artichokes.
Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables Sous Vide with Fat Until Tender
Ingredient Cut to Fat (scaling)* (oc) Cook See page
(em) (in) (oF) (min) 142
5·172
artichokes, baby whole olive oil 20% 85 185 1 h
artichokes, mature half olive oil 20% 143
85 185 lY2 h
5·35
carrots, large 7.5 3 butter 30% 83 181 45
184
chestnuts, peeled whole lard 15% 90 194 12 h
crosnes (Chinese artichokes) whole clarified butter 20% 85 185 35
Japanese yams 7.5 3 butter 20% 95 203 45
garlic whole cloves olive oil 40% 88 190 7h
potatoes 7.5 3 butter 30% 85 185 45
shallots whole neutral oil 15% 85 185 1 h 25 min
squash, kabocha 7.5 3 olive oil 15% 90 194 1 h
sweet potatoes 7.5 3 clarified butter 10% 90 194 40
turnips 7.5 3 butter 10% 85 185 15
from page 3·292 *(set weight ofvegetable to 700%)
CHESTNUT CON FIT Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Italian chestnuts 180g 100%
CD Cut X into stem side of each chestnut.
Rendered pork fat 90g 50% 0 Blanch for 30 s.
Salt 2g 1%
® Peel off receded skins and shell ca refully.
from page 5·18
0 Vacuum seal chestnuts with fat and salt.
® Cook so us vide in 90 °CI 194 °Fbath for12 h.
® Serve, or coo l to room temperature and refrigerate.
SALSIFY FONDANT Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Salsify, peeled and cut 100 g 100%
CD Vacuum seal together.
into 5 em I 2 in lengths 20g 20% 0 Cook sousvide in 95 oc I 203 °Fbath for1 h.
1Sg 15%
Extra virgin olive oil l.Sg 1.5% ® Serve, or cool and refrigerate.
Water 1g 1%
Lim e juice
Salt
from page 5·18
PLANT FOODS 143
SWEET POTATO FONDANT Yi elds200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White sweet potatoes 175 g
(satsuma imo), peeled 100 % CD Use ring cutte r to cut potatoes into tubes 4 em I 1Y2 in thic k and 6 em I 20 in . in dia meter.
Wat e r 125 g
Unsa lted butte r, melted 27.5 g 71.4% 0 Vacuum seal togethe r with potatoes.
Sa lt 4.5 g 15.7%
2.6% ® Cook so us vid e in 95 °CI 203 °F bath for 45 mi n.
fro m page 5·39 @ Serve, o r coo l and refrige rate.
LOBSTER MUSHROOM CON FIT Yi elds 200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lobste r mu shroom 20 0 g 10 0%
Ca rote ne bu tte r (o r 100g 50% CD Vacuum seal togethe r.
unsalted bu tte r) 0 Cook so us vide in 80 oc I 176 °F bath fo r 40 min .
Sa lt 4g 2%
from page 5·187 ® Se rve, or refri gerate unt il use.
VARIATION: Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide for Puree
CD Select and pre p ingre di e nts. See the tab le be low fo r recom me ndations. ® Cook. Reco mm e nded cook ing te mpe ratu res and tim es appea r in the
tab le be low, alo ng with references to recip es elsewhere in the book .
Peel, ste m, or pi t the prod uce to re move coarse or bitte r co mp one nts and
to simp li fy hand ling after cook ing. Cut even ly. @ Puree unt il smooth. Use a blender or food processo r, and then pass
through a fine sieve, ricer, or foo d mi ll. See page 2-424 for more deta ils.
0 Vacuu m sea l. See chapter 9 on Cooking So us Vide, page 2·192, for detail s.
Best Bets for Cooking Fruits or Vegetables So us Vide for Purees
Cut to Cook
(of) (h)
Ingredient (e m) (i n) (oC) 190 2 See page
190 12 min 145
apples, pee le d q ua rte rs, cored 88 149 1 41
176 2 145
bananas, p eel on w ho le 88 19 0
19 0 1V2 148, 15 1
blackberri e s wh o le 65 167 20 min
194 1 39
dates, pitted w hol e 80 194 2 56
203 lOm in
garlic cl oves, p ee le d 88 190 2
190 1'/2
kohlra bi 7.5 3 88 21 2 35 min
190
mangoes 5 2 75 185 2
19 4 7 min
mushroom s, dried w ho le 90 194 4 5 min
185 25 min
mushroom s, fre sh w ho le 90 185 30m in
194 10min
nettles leaves 95
onions and shallots 7.5 3 88
pears, p e ele d ha lves, core d 88
potato es, peeled 7.5 3 10 0
rhubarb 7.5 3 88
rutabagas 7.5 3 85
spinach leaves 90
squash, winte r va rieties (Hokkaido, kabocha, Kuri) 7.5 3 9 0
tomatoes, peeled and seeded q uarte rs, co red 85
turnips 7.5 3 85
w atercress leaves 90
fro m page 3-290
144 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
SALTED CARAMEL APPLE PUREE Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Yields300 g
Sugar 40g 27% Yields400 g
80g 52% CD Cook to dark caramel, about 4 min.
Apple cider 0 Deglaze caramel.
(store-bought)
® Cool syrup to room temperature.
Apples (firm and tart), 150g 100% 0 Vacuum sealtogether with syrup.
peeled, cored, and ® Cook so us vide in 90 ' C I 194 ' Fbath for 2Yz h.
quartered 2 .5 g 1.7%
2g 1.3% ® Transfer from vacuum bag to small pan.
lemon juice 1g 0.7%
Clarified brown butter 0.3g 0.2% 0 Reduce juice, basting apple constantly, to thick syrup, about 5 min.
Salt ® Puree with apples and syrup to smooth consistency.
Xanthan gum ® Pass through fine sieve.
@ Refrigerate.
from page 5·20
TAMARIND PASTE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tamarind, pulp 350g 100%
with seeds and fibers CD Vacuum seal together.
Water 125g 36% 0 Cook so us vide in 80 •c I 170 ' F bath for 30 min.
from page 5·99 ® Press through fine sieve to form fine paste, and refrigerate until use.
DATE PUREE QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
300g 100%
INGREDIENT 90g 30% CD Vacuum seal together.
Dates, pitted 9g 3% 0 Cook so us vid e in 80 ' C I 176 ' F bath for 2 h.
Water 1.2g 0.4%
Ginger juice 1g 0.3% ® Blend fully.
Salt
Black pepper, finely 0 Press through fine sieve.
ground
Cardamom pods ® Discard pulp, and refrigerate puree until use.
from page 5·122
0.2g 0.1%
PLANT FOODS 145
VARIATION: Cooking Fruits or Vegetables Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup
CD Make the syrup. Use equal amounts of water and sugar (sucrose or ® Add syrup, and vacuum seal. The syrup co lumn in the table below
indicates the quantity to use relative to the weight of the fruit. For
other, less sweet sugars such as isomalt or glucose syrup), or adjust the example, add 20 g of syrup to the so us vide bag for every 100 g of dried
sweetness to accommodate your taste and the sweetness of the fruit. apr icot.
Fully dissolve the sugar in the water.
@) Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the
0 Select and prep ingredients. The table below offers some good options. table below, along with references to recipes elsewhere in th is book.
For easy handling after cooking, peel away tough skins, remove pits, and
cut evenly.
Best Bets for Cooking Fruits Sous Vide in Sugar Syrup Until Tender
Syrup Cook
Ingredient Prep (scaling)* (oc) (oF) (h) See page
apples peeled, halved, cored
apricots, dry whole 50% 90 194 3
chestnuts peeled, whole
citrus fruits whole 20% 80 176 1 217
(oranges, limes, lemons, segments
mandarins, kumquats) quarters 100% 90 194 12
whole
cranberries whole, peeled 100% 90 194 4
grapes peels with pith only
grapefruits cut in to fingers 30% 88 190 40min
Buddha's hand lemons peeled, halved, cored
quinces 40% 88 190 12
from page 3·291
10% 88 190 45 min
10% 83 181 8min
200% 90 194 5 146
100% 75 167 2
100% 95 203 8
*(setweightoffruitto 700%)
PINK GRAPEFRUIT CON FIT Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Pink grapefruit peel 200 g CD Cut grapefruit peel into e ight equa l pieces.
225% 0 Blanch three times, starting from co ld water each time.
with pith from one 30%
® Combine water and salt, and bring to boil.
grapefruit, pulp reserved @) Add peel pieces, and simmer for 8 min.
® Drain, rinse, and coo l.
for garn ish ® Reserve.
Water 450 g 0 Stir together to make syrup.
Salt 60 g ® Add blanched peel pieces to syrup.
Fructose 210 g 105% ® Cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 °F bath for4 h.
Water 210g 105%
lsomalt 92g 46% @ Cool in ice-water bath, remove peel pieces from bag, and reserve syrup.
Citric acid 4.5 g 2.25% @ Dice chil led peel pieces finely, and return to syrup.
@ Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
from page 5·226
146 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
VARIATION: Cooking Heat-Sensitive Vegetables Sous Vide
0 Select and prep ingredients. Best Bets for Warming Vegetables So us Vide
0 Vacuum seal. See chapter 9 on Cooking So us Vide, page 2·192, for details.
Vegetable Prep Warm See page
® Cook. Recommended cooking temperatures and times appear in the asparagus whole, stalks peeled (oC) (oF) (min)
table at right.
70 158 5
corn cobb 60 140 15
70 158 15
fava beans pee led 75 167 25 256
green whole 75 167 20
chickpeas 75 167 20
70 158 18
kohlrabi thinly sliced 70 158 15
peas pee led 75 167 45 256
spring quartered 75 167 20
turnips
young whole, peeled
carrots
zucchini thinly sliced
from page 3·292
RED WINE CABBAGE Yields 37S g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Red cabbage leaves 100g 100%
0 Vacuum seal.
Red wine (dry) 200g 200% 0 Blanch so us vide in 90 •c / 194 • F bath for4 min.
Red cabbage juice 180g 180% ® Cool in ice-water bath, and remove from bag immediately.
@ Trim off and discard larger ribs; julienne leaves finely.
(from about ® Reserve.
® Combine, and reduce to 200 g.
300 g cabbage)
0 Add julienned cabbage leaves, and finish cooking through, about1 min.
Pineapple juice (fresh) 6Sg 65%
(from about ® Season cabbage mixture.
100 g pineapp le) ® Warm cabbage and fold in rema ining ingredients.
Red wine vinegar SOg 50%
Red onion ju ice 40g 40%
(from about
100 g onions)
Lime juice 1.2g 1.2%
Salt to taste
Unsalted butter 40g 40%
Pineapple, small dice 35g 35%
Coriander seeds, toasted 2g 2%
and coarsely crushed
Lime zest, finely grated O.Sg 0.5%
from page 5·105
PLANT FOODS 147
Best Bets for Potato Purees
Recipe Potato solid Liquid Fat Other ingredients See page
whole milk 25% unsalted butter 50% salt 2.0%
Robuchon Ratte or 100% creme fralche 6%
whole milk 20%
pommes puree fingerling whole milk 15%
Blumenthal puree Charlotte 100% unsalted butter 30% sa lt 2.0%
unsalted butter 15% salt 1.5%
fluffy mash Russet 100%
potato foam Yukon Gold 100% vegetable 60% olive oil 14% salt 1.5% 324
broth or milk
heavy cream 50%
pommes aligot Belle de 100% creme fralche 25% Cantal or 80% salt 1.5%
Fonte nay or Gruyere cheese,
Yukon Gold grated
roasted potato Yukon Gold 100% Yukon Gold 65% unsalted butter 10% sa lt 2.5% 5·5
puree dried potato 10% potato juice unsalted butter 73% Ultra-Sperse 3 1.0%
flakes
from page 3-297
POTATO PUREE Yields700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled 375 g 250%
CD juice potatoes in vegetable juicer.
Potato juice, from above 150g 100% 0 Centrifuge juice at 27,500g for 1 h.
Clarified unsalted butter 37.5 g 25% ® Decant juice through fine sieve.
Instant potato flakes 37.5 g 25% 0 Vacuum seal.
Unsalted butter, melted 200g 133% ® Cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 °Fbath for 20 min.
216 %
Yukon Gold potatoes 325 g ® Pass through fine sieve, and reserve 150 g.
283%
Potato juice-butter mixture, 425g 186% 0 Warm butter over low heat.
from above 2.3%
20% ® Add potato flakes and toast, stirring constantly, until go ld en brown, about 7 min.
Sieved potatoes, from above 280g ® Add potato juice, bring to boil, and remove from heat.
@ Fold butter in gently until melted.
Ultra-Sperse A (National Starch brand) 3.5 g @ Reserve 425 g.
Grain mustard, optional 30g @ Bake in 200 oc I 400 °Foven for 1 h.
@ Cut potatoes in half, and scoop out hot flesh.
@ Pass through fine-mesh drum sieve.
@ Reserve 280 g of sieved potatoes.
@ Whisk Ultra-Sperse into potato juice-butter mixture over low heat until warm.
@ Whisk in sieved, baked potatoes slowl y.
@ Season and stir in mustard, if desired.
Salt to taste
from page 5·8
148 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
COOKING PLANT FOODS UNDER PRESSURE
Best Bets for Pressure-Cooking Plant Foods Advantage See page
develops flavors and colors 280
Ingredient 214
Quince, pears browns 5·138
Caramelized coconut milk, onion soup accelerates softening 3·304
Chickpeas, white beans, other legumes softens
Steel-cut oatmeal, pearl barley, other grains 151
Whole citrus fruits, fresh coconut, nuts, other tough plant foods
Seeds, including mustard, sesame, sunflower
from page 3·300
BAKED BEANS Yields 700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Dry navy beans 200g 100%
CD Soak in water, refrige rated, for 8 h.
Brown pork stock 300g 150% 0 Rinse beans.
see page6 32.5%
Sweet onions, finely minced 65g 20% ® Place in fresh wate r, and pressure-cook at gauge
Grade Bmaple syrup 40g 15%
Pomegranate molasses (store-bought) 30g 15% pressure ofl bar I 15 psi for 25 min.
Tomato con fit 30g
see page 179 @ Cool in cooking water.
Bourbon (Wild Turkey brand) 20g
Worcestershire sauce 18g ® Combine to make sauce.
Dijon mustard 15g
Smoked Hungarian pepper, hydrated, and sieved 8g ® Bring to boil.
Smoked ham hock meat, finely minced 60g
Salt to taste 0 Skim, and reduce to 250 g, or150 g for thicker sauce.
Sherry vinegar to taste
from page 5·77 ® Vacuum seal sauce with coo led beans.
® Cook so us vide in 80 ·c I 176 •r bath for 1 h.
10% @ Add to cooked beans.
9% @ Season.
7.5%
4%
30%
PRESSURE-COOKED TARSAlS BEANS Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 40g 27%
Bacon, thinly sliced 30g 20% CD Sweat together in pressure cooker until onions are translucent.
Rendered duck fat lOg 7%
Garlic, thinly sliced 5.5 g 3.7% 0 Deglaze pressure cooker.
Thyme 0.5g 0.3%
Black pepper, cracked 0.2g 0.13%
Brown pork stock 400g 267%
see page 6
Dry tarbais beans (or navy beans) 150 g 100% ® Add to pressure cooker.
Calcium chloride lg 0.67% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar 1 15 psi for45 min.
Salt to taste ® Season.
from page 5·83
PLANT FOODS 1 49
CARAMELIZED CARROT SOUP Yields1kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
Young carrots, peeled SOOg 100%
and cored 16% CD Cut into 1.5 em I% in pieces.
Unsalted butter BOg 1.5%
Salt 7.5g 0.5% 0 Melt butter in pressure cooker.
Baking soda 2.5 g
127% ® Add carrot sli ces, salt, and baking soda.
Carrot juice, brought to 635 g
boil and centrifuged (from 1.4 kg of 12% 0 Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar 1 15 psi for 50 min to caramelize.
carrots)
see page 2·360 1.25% ® Pour cold water over cooker to depressurize quickly.
0.5% ® Blend mixture to smooth puree, and press through fine sieve.
Water as needed 0.1 %
0.1 % 0 Blend with puree, and bring to simmer.
Carotene butter (or 60g
unsalted butter) ® Blend into soup to achieve desired viscosity.
® Blend into soup.
optional, see page 40
@ Remove from heat, and season with more sa lt, if desired.
Young ginger, finely diced 4g @ Garnish .
Tarragon, finely minced 2.5g
Ajowain seed, lightly O.Sg
crushed
Licorice powder, optional O.Sg
from page 3·301
AUTOCLAVED ONION SOUP Yields700g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
Sweet onions 1 kg 500%
CD juice 500 g of onions, and reserve 200 g of resulting
Onion juice, from above 200g 100%
20% juice.
Red port (dry) 40g 17.5%
6% 0 Slice remaining 500 g of onions thinly.
Unsalted butter, cubed 35g 0.75%
0.5% ® Pack sliced onions in to two 475 ml 1 1 pt canning jars,
Sugar 12g and reserve. The combination of pressure-
0.25% cooking and baking soda can also
Baking soda l.Sg @ Combine. be applied to make a baked-potato
14% ® Pour mixture over packed onions, and seal jars. Do consomme. Roast 100 g of russet
Black peppercorns 1g potato skins until golden, combine
(whole) B% not overtighten, or jars may exp lode. w ith 400 g russet potato juice and
1.6 g of baking soda, and then
Thyme O.Sg ® Cook in 130 •c I 265 •Fautoclave for 20 min. pressure-cook as described in
step 6.
Salt to taste Alternat ive ly, pressure-cook in canner or pressure
cooker at gauge pressure of1 bar 1 15 psi for 40 min.
Sherry vinegar to taste
0 Season soup.
Clarified unsalted butter, 2Bg
melted (or rendered veal ® Portion evenly among four bowls.
marrow fat) ® Spoon thin layer of melted butter over each portion to
Cheese foam BOg prevent any cloudin ess caused by cheese foam.
optional, see page 317 @ Siphon onto soup.
from page 3·302
150 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
CRISPY BOILED PEANUTS Yields120 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 200g 200%
Raw peanuts, shelled 100g 100% 0 Combine, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for 25 min.
0 Transfer boiled peanuts to dehydrator tray.
Water 100g 100% ® Dehydrate at 60 oc I 140 °Ffor 12 h.
Dried laver (seaweed) 20g 20% 0 Deep-fry in 190 oc I 375 °Fo il for1 min.
Sugar 20g 20%
Salt 2g 2% ® Drain on paper towels, coo l, and reserve.
Monosodium glutamate 1g 1%
(MSG), optional ® Combine; let seaweed soak for 30 min at room temperature.
Demerara sugar 2g
Chili powder 1g 0 Strain to remove excess liquid from seaweed.
Salt O.Sg
from page 3·303 ® Dehydrate seaweed at 60 oc l 140 °Ffor12 h.
® Deep-fry in 190 oc /375 °Foi l for about 1 min.
@ Drain on paper towe ls, cool, and measure 25 g.
2.6% @ Grind together.
1% @ Toss with cooled peanuts and reserved seaweed.
0.5%
PRESSURE-COOKED SESAME SEEDS Yields125g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE The same procedure used to
Water 250g 500% pressure-cook the sesame seeds
Raw sesame seeds SOg 100% 0 Boil seeds in water for 2 min to remove bitterness. can also be app li ed to cook
0 Place blanched seeds and water in pressure cooker. mustard seeds. Simply rep lace
Toasted sesame oil 40g 80% ® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for the toasted sesame oi l with
Salt to taste good-quality o live o il or mustard-
from page 3·303 JY, h. seed o il.
0 Remove mixture from cooker, and cool at room
temperature.
® Strain seeds, and reserve.
® Comb in e .
0 Toss oil with cooled seeds, and season.
POTATO PUREE Yields1 kg
INSPIRED BY JOEL ROBUCHON,
JEFFREY STEINGARTEN, AND HESTON BLUMENTHAL
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING Flavors can be infused into the liquid s prior to
Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and skins reserved SOOg 100% using them; for instructions, see page 2·310. You
Water 2 kg 400% can also use meat or vegetable stocks as liquids.
Sugar 20g 4% If using fat-free liquids, supplement with a fat
Unsalted butter, cubed 250g 50% such as butterfat (one of our favorites), rendered
Whole milk 125 g 25% chicken fat, or olive oil.
Creme fraiche 30g 6%
Salt to taste
from page 3-296
0 Peel and cut potatoes even ly, saving peels, and then rinse the potatoes. 0 Pass potatoes through a sieve for a smoother texture. Robuchon's silky
0 Vacuum seal potatoes with peelings and water (and sugar, if any), and then
potatoes recipe, for example, calls for three passes through the sieve. We
cook so us vide in a 70 oc I 158 °Fbath for 35 min. See the table on page 148 find that one pass through a very fine sieve is enough . At this point, the
puree can be refrigerated for later use.
for recommended liquids and quantities, which are expressed as a
percentage of the weight of the potatoes after cook ing. You can subst itu te ® Warm the liquid (including skin infusion, if prepared), and whisk into the
the liquid from the bag for liquids in the recipe. potato mixture to the desired consistency. Add pureed potato flakes if
made in step 4.
® Remove potatoes from bag, drain, and coo l complete ly.
® Season w ith sa lt, and gent ly fo ld in Ultra-Sperse 3 or any other starch
0 Optionally, saute instant potato flakes in butter until go ld en. Puree them cal led for in the recipe.
using a mortar a nd pestle, and reserve for use as a flavor enhancer. @ Optionally, add cheese, and stir until fully melted and in corporated.
® Boil potatoes until tender. Cooking times vary with the variety of potatoes @ Serve warm.
and thickness of cut, but 15-25 min is typical.
® Drain, a nd then press potatoes through ri ce r or food mill directly over
cubed butter. Then fold the potatoes with the butter.
PLANT FOODS 151
RISOTTOS
PARBOILING RISOTTO VARIATION: PRESSURE-COOKING RISOTTO
CD Freeze a sheet tray, and bring a pan of water to a boil. CD Fre eze a sheet tray.
0 Parboil the grains. See the table below for recommended times. 0 Combine grains with twice their weight in water in pressure cooker.
® Drain with a fine sieve. Parcook for time recommended in the table below.
0 Spread the gra ins even ly in a thin laye r on the chilled tray to cool. ® Follow steps 3-7 at left.
® Cover tightly with plastic wrap or vacuum seal. Refrigerate until needed, VARIATION: COOKING RISOTTO SOUS VIDE
but for no more than one week. CD Preheat the water bath to 90 °C I 194 °F.
0 Vacuum seal the grains with twice their weight in liquid.
® Finish cooking for the time recommended in the tab le. Follow steps 8-10
on page 153. ® Parcook. See the cook so us vide column in the table below for
recommended times.
0 Season. If using a non-starchy gra in you may need to thicken
0 Chill in an ice-water bath. Refrigerate in the bag until needed.
(see page 156).
® Follow steps 6 and 7 at left.
Best Bets for Risotto
Parcooking time Finish on stove top
(choose one method)
Pressure- Cook For For pressure- For
Boil cook sous vide
Yield after (min) (min) sous vide boiled cooked
cooking*
Crain (min) (min) (min) (min) Sauce or finish See page
amaranth, rinsed well 190% 13 4 17 1h 2 2 thicken 156
bomba rice 240% 84 n/ a 4h 3 n/ a mantecato
brown rice 225% 12 6 30 6 5 4 mantecato 153
forbidden rice 150% 17 7 23 3 3 3 integral sauce
pearl barley 185% 18 12 25 4 4 5 thicken 156
pine nuts 110% 97 25 1 Y2 2 thicke n 155
quinoa 235% 72 10 2 3 2 mantecato 156
risotto rices 200% 63 n/a 3 3 n/a mantecato 153
(Arborio, carnaroli)
short-grain Japanese rice 210% 4 2Y2 n/ a 3 2 n/ a thicken
spelt, soaked overnight 150% 15 12 25 3 4 3 integral sauce 156
steel-cut oats, rinsed 185% 75 9 2V2 2 2 thicken 154
wild rice 150% 30 25 45 2Y2 2 4 mantecato
from page 3·305 *lfinal cooked weight ofeach grain-for example, every 700 g ofdry bomba rice yields 240 g when cooked)
STEAMED STICKY RICE Yields150g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
White chicken stock or 60g CD Hand-bl e nd together.
water 0 Reserve refrigerated .
see page 6
Coconut milk 40g 67%
20%
Clarified unsalted butter, 12g
warmed
Salt 2g 3.5%
800%
Water 480g 100% ® Combine.
Sticky rice 60g 0 Refrigerate for 12 h to soak rice.
® Drain ri ce. Spread on cheesecloth-lined perforated tray.
® Steam rice for 30 min. Allow to rest, uncovered, for 5 min.
0 Warm reserved stock and coco nut milk mixture, and fold into cooked rice.
from page 5·119
152 VOLUME 6 ·KI TCHEN MANUAL
RISOTTO MILANESE INSPIRED BY GUALT I ERO MARCHESI Yields250 g
SCALING
0 Freeze a sheet tray to use for cool ing the rice. INGREDIENT QUANTITY 267%
0 Bring stock to bo il. So us vide vegetable stock 400g
0 Sa ute onions and sha ll ots. When trans lu cent, add rice, and continu e
see pagel3 45g 30%
saute ing until a lso translucent, about 5 min. 50g 33%
Olive oil lO g 6 .5%
@) Deglaze pan with wine. Yellow onions, finely mince d 150g 100%
Shallots, fin e ly mince d 100g 67%
® Ladle 100 g of stock into pan, and parcook over high heat. Add Carnaroli rice 57g 38%
two more 100 g ladlefuls o f stock, allowing each amount to be fully Ita lia n white wi ne (dry)
absorbed before adding another. Parcook for exactly 6 min. Parmigiano Reggia no cheese, 30g 20%
finely grated 0.4g 0.25%
® Drain with a fine sieve, reserving any li quid. Unsalted butter, cubed to taste
Saffron threads to taste
0 Spread t he risotto in a th in layer on the chill ed tray, and cover tray tightly Black pepper, finely ground fo ur sheets
Salt
with plastic wrap. Refrigerate until needed. Up to t hi s point, you can Gold leaf
substitute othe r pa rcook ing techniques such as so us vi de or pressure from page 3·306
cook ing (see previous page).
® To finish cooking, put coo led, parcooked risotto in pan, a nd add
rema ining stock. Cook for a nother 3 min for a! dente or un til desired
texture is ach ieved.
® Remove from heat, and fo ld in cheese, butter, saffro n, and pepper.
Season with sa lt.
@ Spoon one portion of risotto onto center of plate or bowl. Garnish with
gold leaf.
PAELLA RICE Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
25g
Spa ni sh onions, finely 20g 20% 0 Saute together in pressure cooker until tender and translucent, about 7 min.
minced 20g
15g 16%
Olive oil 125g 16%
Piquillo pepper, finely 325 g 12%
minced 35 g
100% 0 Add rice to onion mixture, and cook until translucent, about 2 min.
Sweet pimento pepper,
fi ne ly minced 260% 0 Add wine a nd 150 g of stock to rice and on ion mixture, and pressure-cook at gauge pressure of
28%
Smoked bomba rice (or 1 bar I 15 psi for 3 min .
regular bomba ri ce) 1. 6%
see page 183 @) Run cold water over sea led pressure cooker.
Paella stock ® Drain rice, discarding liquid.
see page 9
® Spread rice on chi ll e d baking sheet to speed coo ling.
Spa nish white wine
(dry and fruity) 0 Transfer to conta in er, and refrigerate rice and remaining175 g of paella stock separate ly until
Saffron threads 2g use.
Salt to taste ® Finish cooking pae ll a ri ce by simmering, while add ing remaining stock a little at a time, until
from page 5·241 rice is a! dente, abo ut 5 min.
® Remove from heat, add saffron, and season w ith sa lt.
PlANT FOODS 153
SOUS VIDE CLAM AND OAT RISOTTO Yields585 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 150g 150%
Steel-cut oats, rinsed lOOg 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
with warm water to 0 Cook so us vide in 90 °C1 194 °Fbath for10 min .
remove starch SOg 50%
Mussel jus lOOg ® Strain, and reserve liquid.
see page37
Geoduck clams, 100g @ Cool oats, and reserve.
belly meat only
to taste 100% ® Vacuum seal.
Montpellier butter 2Sg
see page 298 15g 100% ® Cook so us vide in 50 °CI 122 °Fbath for 30 min.
1Sg
Salt 25 % 0 Slice thinly, and reserve.
Wild arugula 15g 15%
Extra, virgin olive oil lOg 15% ® Melt in pan and then add cooled oats.
Leeks, whites only, 7.5g 15% ® Stir until warmed through, and then add reserved cooking liquid as necessary to ach ieve
fine julienne 10%
Radishes, fine julienne 7.5% desired consistency.
Champagne vinegar @ Season oats, and reserve warm .
Young ginger, fine @ Combine in small bowl, and toss to coat evenly.
julienne @ Spoon oats in thin layers in warmed bowls.
from page 3·308 @ Top each portion with geoduck belly.
@ Garnish with salad.
PRESSURE-COOKED VEGETABLE RISOTTO Yields600g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, minced 40g 20%
Vegetable oil 20g 10 % CD Saute shallots in uncovered pressure cooker until tra nslucent.
Carnaroli rice 200g 100% 0 Add to shallots, and saute until slightly toasted and tra nsluce nt, about 2 min.
White vegetable stock 180g 90%
see page 6 ® Stir liquids into rice mixture.
Carrot juice llOg 55%
Celery juice llOg 55% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for sy, min.
Vermouth SOg 25%
Aged Gouda cheese, 100g 50% ® Pour cold water over pressure cooker to quickly depressurize.
finely grated
Unsalted butter, cubed 12g 6% ® Mix into hot ri sotto.
Salt to taste
from page 3·308 0 Season risotto.
154 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
BRAISED PINE NUTS WITH WINTER SQUASH YieldsSOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
White veal stock 250g 250% CD Puree until smooth, and reserve.
see page 6
Tomato con fit lOg 10%
seepage179
Kabocha squash juice 1 kg 1,000% 0 Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
(from 4 kg
squash) ® Strain through fine sieve to clarify, and reserve.
White wine (dry) 75 g 75% @ Reduce to 50 g, about 5 min, and reserve.
25% ® Saute until tender.
Olive oil 25g 25%
100% ® Add to shallots, and deglaze with w in e reduction .
Shallots, finely minced 25 g
100% 0 Add stock mixture and kabocha squash juice.
Pine nuts, lightly toasted lOOg 10% ® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar I 15 psi for 7 min.
100%
Kuri squash, peeled and lOO g 15% ® Cool.
cut into large dice lOg 12 % @ Drain, reserving pine nuts and liquid separate ly.
® Reduce liquid to form glaze.
Extra virgin olive oil @ Fold glaze into reserved pine nuts, and cool.
@ Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate.
Salt to taste @ Vacuum seal.
Pickled butternut squas h, lOOg @ Cook so us vide in 90 •c I 194 "Fbath for 1\4 h.
drained, from above
@ Pass through fine sieve.
® Season kuri squash puree, and measure 80 g.
@ Reheat reserved pine nuts, and fold into kuri squash puree.
@ Fold in pickled butternut squash, olive o il, and cheese.
Extra virgin olive oil lSg
Parmigiano-Reggiano 12g
cheese, grated
Saffron threads 0.1 g 0.1 % @) Season squash mixture.
Black pepper, freshly to taste
ground and sifted
Orange zest, grated to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5·65
PLANT FOODS 155
RAGOUT OF GRAINS Yields280 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Button mushrooms, peeled 2 kg 2,000%
Grapeseed oil 100 g 100% 0 Coat mushrooms in oil.
Water 800g 800% ® Roast in 175 ' C I 350 ' Foven until go ld en, about 30 min .
Spelt, soaked for 12 h 35 g 35% ® Place with roasted mushrooms in pot, and simmerfo r1 h.
@ Stra in.
Pearl barley, rinsed 40g 40% ® Measure and reserve 1 kg of mushroom stock, divided into four portions
Quinoa 35 g 35% of250 g each.
® Measure and reserve 25 g more of mushroom stock for use during
Sprouted brown rice 35 g 35%
finishing.
Raw foie gras, brought to room temperature 20g 20%
Unsalted butter, cubed, brought to room 20g 20% 0 Combine w ith 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
temperature lOOg 100%
Shiitake mushrooms, 75% pressure of1 bar 1 15 psi for12 min.
finely minced 75 g 40% ® Drain, coo l, and refrigerate.
Shallots, finely minced 45%
Seasonal wild mushrooms, finely minced 40g 25% ® Combine with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
Rendered duck fat 45g pressure of1 bar 1 15 psi for12 min.
Brown chicken jus 25 g
see page 34 @) Drain, cool, and refrigerate.
Mushroom stock, from above
lemon juice @ Comb in e with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
Salt
from page 5·129 pressure of 1 bar I 15 psi for 2 min.
@ Drain, cool, and refrigerate.
@ Comb in e with 250 g mushroom stock and pressure-cook at gauge
pressureof 1 bar l 15psifor6min.
@ Stra in, cool, and reserve.
@ Drain.
@ Pass through fine sieve, and whisk with butter.
@ Vacuum seal foie gras butter, and refrigerate.
@ Saute mushrooms in duck fat until light go ld en and tender, about 10 min.
@ Add cooked grains, and warm through.
@) Finish w ith reserved foie gras butte r, brown chicken jus, and mushroom
stock.
25 g 25%
to taste
to taste ® Season ragout.
ROOT VEGETABLE RISOTTO Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shallots, finely minced 60g 50%
Olive oil 48g 40% 0 Saute sha ll ots until tender.
White wine 160g 133%
Carrots, cut like rice 120g 100% ® Deglaze shal lots, a nd reduce until dry.
Potatoes, cut like rice 120g 100% ® Add to sha ll ots.
Turn ips, cut like rice l20g 100% @ Cook together until vegetab les areal dente, about 7 min.
Vegetable stock 40g 33%
see page 6 ® Whisk together in bowl.
Ultra-Sperse 5 2 .4 g 2% ® St ir into cooked vegetables.
(NationalStarch brand)
Squash puree, warmed 60g 50% 0 Bring mixture to simmer, and remove immediately from heat.
see page 55
30g 25 % ® Stir into risotto.
Unsalted butter, cubed 24g 20%
® Fold into risotto until creamy.
Parmesan cheese, to taste
finely grated @) Season.
Salt
from page 3·309
156 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
MICROWAVED VEGETABLES ® Evenly arrange them on a microwave-safe dish, or seal as specified.
@ Microwave at the prescribed power level.
0 Select a technique. The table below lists our recommendations.
0 Prepare your ingredients in a uniform size.
Best Bets for Microwaving Vegetables
Technique Best Bets Prep Procedure Time Power
cooking root vegetables baby beet, carrot, celery root, whole vacuum seal (min) (W)
potato, turnip 3-7 800
cooking leafy greens bok choy, broccoli, cabbage whole
place in 2 mm I X6 in of water in microwave- 3-5 800
600
safe dish, and cover with plastic wrap
cooking bulbs artichoke, cardoon, celery, whole vacuum seal 2-5
and fibrous vegetables fennel, leek, on ion, scallions
frying herbs
basil, carrot top, Italian parsley, leaves arrange on oiled plastic wrap 3-4 600
dehydrating raw vegetable sage
purees into powders
from page 3·311 beet, carrot, mushroom, puree spread raw puree thinly onto 12-20 200
parsnip, spinach microwave-safe dish
MICROWAVE-FRIED PARSLEY ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 8 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Frying oil as needed 100%
0 Stretch plastic wrap over microwave-safe plate, ensuring that it is flush with bottom of plate
Flat-leaf Italian parsley, 30g
and adheres tightly to p late's edges.
leaves only
0 Brush plastic wrap with th in film of oil.
Salt to taste
® Lay parsley across plastic wrap, leaving approximately 2 em I :Y., in between leaves.
@ Brush tops of leaves thinly with oil.
® Microwave at 600 W (75% power) for 4 min or until crisp, checking leaves every 1Y2 min
to prevent burning.
® Transfer fried parsley to paper towel-lined tray.
0 Season.
® Reserve in airtight container, preferably lined with silica gel desiccant.
from page 3·312
TOMATO POWDER ADAPTED FROM THOMAS KELLER Yields 15 g
INGRED IENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Tomato pulp, peeled, 200g 0 Squeeze tightly in towel to extract excess moisture.
seeded, and finely 0 Spread in thin, even layer on microwave tray lined
chopped Inexpensive PVC-based cling film
with parchment paper. should not be used for this tech-
nique because it poses health
® Microwave on low power for 30-40 min, or until pulp hazards. Use polyethylene-based
has dried comp letely but stil l retains its color. fi lms instead.
@ Cool to room temperature. Microwave ovens can be used for
dehydrating fruits, vegetables, a nd
® Grind in coffee or spice grinder until as fine as herbs in the same manner as this
possible. recipe. Of course, conventional
methods of dehydration could also
® If some pieces do not break up during grinding, sift be used (see page 2-428).
powder through fine mesh strainer while stirring w ith
spoon.
0 Store in covered plastic container.
from page 3·312
PLANT FOODS 157
ARTICHOKE AND POTATO CHAAT Yields 600 g (4 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Artichoke hearts, cleaned 200 g 50% CD Combine and vacuum seal.
20% 0 Microwave at 800 W (full power) for 3 min, and then coo l for 2 min in bag.
Water lOOg 16%
100% ® Remove art ichokes very carefully from bag (steam will escape), and cool comp lete ly.
Extra, virgin olive oil 40g @ Cut into small dice, and reserve.
20% ® Combine and vacuum seal.
Unsalted butter 32g ® Microwave at 800 W for 3 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.
12.5%
Fingerling potatoes 200g 0.05% 0 Remove potatoes very carefully from bag, and cool completely.
(whole) 15%
® Cut into small dice, and reserve.
Brown butter 40g
see page 4 ·213 ® Toss with diced artichokes and potatoes.
Water 25 g
Saffron threads 0.1 g
Masala Sev (chickpea 30 g
flour noodles),
store-bought
Cashews, coarsely lOg 5%
crushed 5%
5%
Cilantro leaves (small) lO g 2.5%
Dates, thinly sliced lOg 50%
20%
Mint, fine julienne 5g
lime juice to taste @ Season chaat, and divide into equa l portions.
@ Garnish chaat generously.
Salt to taste
Yogurt foam lOOg
see page329
Tamarind paste 40g
see page 145
Chaat masala to taste
see page 50
from page 3·313
SICHUAN BOK CHOY Yields 350 g (4 portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
10 %
Hoisin sauce (store- 20g CD Combine, and bring to simmer.
bought) 7.5% 0 Cool and reserve.
Fermented black bean 15g
and chili paste (store-
bought)
Shaoxingwine 8g 4%
2.5%
Soy sauce 5g 0.5%
50%
Toasted-sesame oil lg
50%
Shiitake mushroom caps lOOg 25% ® Blanch in boiling water for 2 min.
(smallest possible) 12 .5% @ Transfer to bowl, and reserve.
1.5% ® Whisk together until fully d issolved.
Rice wine vinegar lOOg 100% ® Bring brine to simmer, an d remove from heat.
Water 50g
Sugar 25g 25% 0 Pour warm brine over blanched mushrooms.
Salt 3g 25%
Baby bok choy, cleaned 200g ® Cool completely to pickle mushrooms, and reserve.
and cut in half 5% ® Vacuum seal together.
Water 50g @ Microwave at 800 W (full power) for 2 min, and then cool for 2 min in bag.
@ Re move bok choy from bag, and serve immediate ly.
Pressure-cooked sesame 50g @ Garnish bok choy with spicy sauce, pickl e d mushrooms, sesame seeds, and chili oil.
seeds @ Serve with steamed rice.
see page 151
Dried chili oil lOg
see page28
from page 3-313
15 8 VOLU ME 6 ·K I TC HEN MANUAL
Best Bets for Naked Frying CD Prep. Preheat fry ing oi l to 190 oc I 375 °F, and cut vegetables to dim ensions indicated.
Ingredient Prep Deep-fry The dried sh iitake must be hydrated with warm water for at least 30 min before frying.
(e m ) (in) (m in)
0 Fry for th e tim e in dicated in the table. The vegetab les typica ll y turn very dark brown and look
artichokes, baby quartered 3
alm ost ove rcooked.
asparagus, green who le 3
and white ® Drain, and transfer fried vegetab les to a tray lin ed with paper towe ls. Season w ith sa lt.
bok choy qu art ered 4
broccoli, florets 2.5 1 3 TOASTED GARLIC CHIPS Yields 24 pieces
Brusse ls sprouts halved 5 INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
cauliflower, florets 2.5 4 Garlic cloves 50g 100% CD Slice 1mm I ){6 in thick.
cucumber 2.5 1 4 Milk, cold as needed 0 Cover garlic slices w ith milk, heat to 70 oc I 158 °F,
daikon radish 1.25 0. 5 8 and drain.
eggplant 2.5 5 ® Repeat two more times.
green beans w hole
scallions whole 3 Frying oil as needed 0 Deep-fry garli c slices in 160 oc I 320 °Foil until
2
golden and crisp, about 5 min.
Salt to taste ® Season .
shiitake, fresh whole 4 ® Serve or store in cool, dry place.
shiitake, dried whole 2 from page 5·9
squash, autumn 2.5 3
sunchoke 1.25 0.5 3
zucchini 1.25 0 .5 1Y2
from page 3·320
DEEP-FRIED BRUSSELS SPROUTS Yields 350 g (fo ur portion s)
ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Fi sh sa uce 130g 26%
70g 14% CD Whisk together unti l sugar dissolves.
Lim e jui ce 60g 12% 0 Reserve sauce.
Sugar 55g 11 %
Water 25g 5% ® Measure individu all y, and reserve for garn ish .
Ri ce wine vinegar 5g 1%
Garlic clove, minced 3g 0 .6%
Bird 's eye chili, minced 0.53g 0.1 %
Xanth an gum (Keltrol T, (0.75%)*
CP Kelco brand) 20g 4%
Rice puffs lO g 2%
Cilantro ste ms,
4g 0.8%
1em I 'Is in long 500g
100% 0 Peel off tough outer leaves until only cores remain, about 2 em I :Y., in each in diameter.
Small mint leaves
Brusse lsspro uts
Frying oil as needed ® Slice in half.
® Deep-fry sp routs in 180 oc I 355 °F oil until tend er and very dark, abo ut 5 min .
0 Drain on paper towels .
® Toss with sauce, arrange o n plates, an d garnish.
from page 3·321 *(%oftotal weightoffirstfive ingredients)
PLANT FOODS 15 9
POMMES PONT-NEUF INSPIRED BY HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Russet potatoes 500g 100%
Water 500g 100% 0 Cut into batons 1.5 em I% in thick by 1.5 em I% in ta ll.
Sugar 15g 3% 0 Whisk sugar, salt, and bak ing soda into water.
Salt 7.5 g 1.5%
Baking soda 0.75g 0.25% ® Add potatoes and water mixture to pot, and bo il for about 20 min until very tender
and nearly fall ing apart.
from page 3·323
@) Drain, and place warm potatoes on wire rack in vacuum chamber.
® Pull vacuum until surfaces of chips are dry and chips feel coo l, 3- 4 min.
® Optiona ll y, vacuum -coo l again, or air-coo l in single layer.
0 Blanch in 150 ' CI 300 ' Foi l until chips are mostly cooked but st ill pale, about 7 min.
® Deep-fry in 220 ' CI 430 ' Foil until crisp, about 2 min .
® Drain on paper towels.
A vacuum treatment both coo ls PECTINASE-STEEPED FRIES Yields350 g
and dries the exterio r of t he fries.
Heston Blumenthal fou nd that ADAPTED FROM NILS NOREN AND DAVE ARNOLD
th is process produces a thicker,
crunchier crust. He does the INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
vacuum cooling and drying step Russet potatoes 500g 100%
tw ice: first after boiling, and again 0 Cut into batonsl .5 em /% in thick byl.5 em / % in tall.
after parcooking. Water 500g 100% 0 Rinse thorough ly to remove surface starch.
Pectinex Ultra SP-L 2g 0.4%
Air-cooling the chips after the (Novozymes brand) ® Combine w ith rinsed potatoes.
boi ling step yields a th inn er, more Water @) Soak forl h, and drain.
deli cate crust. To air- cool the fries, Salt
place them in a single layer on a 500g 100% ® Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
w ire rack. You ca n use a hou se hold lO g 2%
fan to speed t he process. ® Steam at 100 ' CI 212 ' Ffor 15 min.
0 Drain and coo l.
We find that vacuum coo ling and ® Bl anch in 170 ' CI 340 ' Foil for 3 min, and cool.
drying after parfrying produces a ® Deep-fry in 190 ' CI 375 ' Fo il until crisp, about 3 min.
chip that is too dry for o ur tastes.
We prefer to vacuum coo l after @ Drain on paper towe ls.
boiling, but to air cool after
parfrying. from page 3·324
STIR-FRIED FIDDLEHEAD FERNS Yieldsl55 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
120g 100%
Fidd lehead ferns 40g 33% 0 Stir-fry fidd leheads in very hot oi l for 2 min, moving them constantly to ensure blistering
White ch icken stock or
water 20g without burning. Douse with stock or water, a little at a time, until cooked through.
see page ll 20g
16.7% 0 Add garnishes and continue stir-frying for 20 s.
Frying oil lOg 16.7%
A lsatian bacon, 6g ® Season garnished fiddleheads, and arrange on plates.
sma ll dice 8.3%
Scallions, fine julienne 2.5 g 5%
Garlic, germ removed to taste 2%
and finely minced
Black peppercorns,
coarsely ground
Salt
from page 5·11 9
160 VOLUM E 6 ·K I TCHEN MANUA L
STARCH-INFUSED FRIES Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Russet potatoes 500g 100%
CD Cut into batons 1.5 em I% in t hi ck by 1.5 em I% in tall , and rinse thoroughly to remove surface
Water lOOg 20%
Potato starch 50g 10% starch.
Water 500g 100% 0 Combine with rinsed potatoes.
Salt lOg 2%
® Vacuum seal.
@) Refrigerate for 30 min, and drain.
® Vacuum sea l with potatoes in one even layer.
® Steam at 100 ' C I 212 ' Ffor 15 min.
0 Drain.
® Place hot fries on wire rack in vacuum chamber.
® Pull vacuum until surfaces of fries are dry.
@ Blanch in 170 ' C I 340 ' Foil for 3 min, and cool.
@ Deep-fry in 190 ' C I 375 ' Foil un til crisp, about 3 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
from page 3·325
ULTRASONIC FRIES Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Russet potatoes 500g 100%
CD Cut into batons 1.5 em I% in thick byl .5 em I% in tall, and rinse thoroughly to remove surface
Water 500g 100%
Salt lOg 2% starch .
0 Vacuum seal with potatoes in one even layer.
® Cook atlOO ' C I 212 ' Fforl5 min.
@) Transfer to ultrasonic bath, and cavitate for 45 min.
® Flip bag, and cav itate in ultrasonic bath for another 45 min.
® Drain.
0 Place hot fries in singl e laye r on wire rack.
® Coo l at room temperature, with or without fan.
® Blanch in 170 ' C I 340 ' Foil for 3 min, and cool.
@ Deep-fry in 190 ' C I 375 ' Foil until golden and very crisp, about 5 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
from page 3·325
STARCH-INFUSED ULTRASONIC FRIES Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE The chips must be cooled and dried
Russet potatoes 500g 100% both after the boiling step and after
Water CD Cut into batons 1.5 em 1% in thick byl .5 em 1% in tall, parfrying. Vacuum cooling and
Salt 500g 100% air cool ing both work, but yield
Water lOg 2% and rinse thoroughly to remove surface starch. different textures- see page 3·322.
Potato starch
lOOg 20% 0 Vacuum seal together with potatoes. We use a 21 I I 5Y2 gal Branson 8150
from page 3·325 50g 10%
® Cook atlOO ' C I 212 ' Fforl5 min. ultra sonic bath set at a frequency
@) Drain. Cool, and reserve. of 40kHz for making these fries.
® Whisk togeth er.
® Vacuum seal carefu lly with cooked potatoes.
0 Cavitate in ultrasonic bath for 45 min.
® Flip and cavitate in ultrasonic bath for another 45 min.
® Drain.
@ Place hot fries on wire rack in vacuum chamber.
@ Pull vacuum until surfaces of fries are dry.
@ Blanch in 170 ' CI 340 ' Foil for 3 min, and cool.
@ Deep-fry in 190 ' C I 375 ' Foi l until crisp, for 3 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
PLANT FOODS 161
FRUIT AND VEGETABLE CHIPS
Best Bets for Fried Fruit and Vegetable Chips
Slice Deep-fry
Ingredient (mm) (in) (oC) (oF) (s) G) Slice evenly. See the table at left for suggested ingredients and
thicknesses. Use a meat slicer, if available, to produce slices of
apple %2 165 330 105 uniform thickness.
Asian pear %2 190 375 100
carrot y32 190 375 40 0 Mix Crisp Coat UC or potato starch with water to make a slurry.
celery root 1-3 YJrYa 165 330 60 Optionally, add Methocel K100M to the slurry to reduce oil.
%rYa 165 330 15-25
cucumber (and pickles)* 1-3 Ya 165 330 90 ® Dip sli ces in starch slurry, and arrange them in one layer in a so us
Ya 165 330 15 vide bag. Vacuum seal. A full vacuum impregnates the sli ces with
eggplant* 3 %2-Ya 190 375 15-25 starch, yie lding a texture similar to that of a thin potato chip.
y32 165 330 105
jalapeno* 3 y32 165 330 120 0 Remove sl ices from bag, and pat dry.
lotus root 1-3 ® Dehydrate (optional). For delicate fruits and vegetables such as
tomatoes, cucumbers, and jalapenos, dehydrate the starch-coated
melon
slices at 50 oc I 122 °F until complete ly dry, up to 2 h.
pineapple 1
® Deep-fry until crisp and golden. See the table for a re co mmended
potato 1-3 Y32-Ya 190 375 35 oil temperature and frying time.
strawberry* 3 Ya 165 330 40
tomato* 3 Ya 165 330 15 0 Drain on absorbent paper towels, and season with salt.
watermelon
%2 165 330 105
from page 3·328 *(dehydroteat60 °C/ 140 °Fjar 1h beforefrying)
WATERMELON CHIPS Yields100 g
SCALING
INGREDIENT QUANTITY 100%
Seedless watermelon flesh, skin 200g 50% Adding 0.5% of Methocel K100M by weight of slurry can reduce the oil
and pith removed (from one whole) 25% uptake of the chips after frying by up to 20 %. For regular potato ch ips,
simply compress the potato slices with a stock so luti on of100% water and
Water 100 g 0.5% Methocel K100M before fry in g for simi lar results. The film-forming
properties of methylcellulose prevent the vacuoles from absorb in g as much
Crisp Coat UC (National Starch brand) 50 g oil upon coo lin g.
or raw potato starch
Salt to taste
Neutral oil as needed
from page 3·328
RESTRUCTURED POTATO CHIPS Yields 100 g CD Comb in e a ll ingredients.
0 Blend (optiona l). For puffed chips on ly, puree with hand blender or
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Water 200g 400% blender until smooth, about 1 min .
Instant potato flakes 50 g 100%
Raw potato starc h (or Ultra-Crisp CS 18.5 g 37% ® Cast mixture into circu lar template, 2 mm I :Y" in thick and 7.5 em I 3 in.
or Crisp Coat UC for puffed chips)
Neutral oil 15 g 30% in diameter.
Salt 1.5 g 3%
from page 3·330 0 Bake in 175 °( I 350 °F oven on tray lin ed with silicone mat until golden
and crisp, about 9 min.
® Turn over (optiona l). For puffed chips only, flip and bake another 2-3 min
to e nsure they are comp letely baked through .
To make puffed chips, use Ultra-Crisp CS or Crisp Coat UC rather than raw
potato starch, and include step 5. For a great flavor add ition, replace the
water with cheese-infused water (see page 20).
162 VOLUME 6 ·K ITCHEN MANUAL
BATTER-FRYING Batter Textures Crunchy Extra crispy
crispy tempura
0 Select a batte r. Use the Batter Textures ta bl e at right to choose a n option Crisp egg yolk
airy tempura, whole egg cornmeal
that yie ld s the texture you desire. lacy yeast
thin cid e r
0 Mix flou rs or starches with season in gs. Ingre di e nts a nd proportions a re rich
dense beignet
li sted in the table below. from page 3·332
® Blend liquid with rising age nts.
@ Whisk liquid into dry mi xture.
® Pour batter into sip hon (for siphon ed batters only). Cha rge siphon with
the gas li sted in the sca ling co lumn .
® Coat food with a n ad hesive (optio na l). Batters cling better to low-
moi sture fo ods if yo u first dip the food in milk, eggs, or a noth e r sticky
s ubsta n ce.
0 Coat even ly in dry starc h (see page 162). Shake off a ny excess.
® Dispense batter into bowl, a nd coat th e food eve nly.
® Fry. For recommended frying temperatures a nd times, see individual
recipes.
@ Pat dry, and seaso n. Salt is app ropri ate for most food s.
Best Bets for Batters
Batter Flour or starch (sca ling) Seasoning (scaling) liquid (scaling) Rising agent (sca lin g) See
page
tempura fl o ur 67% n/ a sake 100% baking powder 2% 5·197
rice flour 67% vodka 75% siphon* two c harges 164
of C02
malt syrup 8% 0.6% 166
whole sweet- potato starch 37.5% salt 2% blonde ale 100% dry yeast two charges
egg ofN,O
flour 37.5% egg 15% siphon*
yeast Trisol (Texturas 90% salt 1% water 100% fresh yeast 2%
brand)
flour 65%
crispy flour 28.5% salt 3% water 100.0% baking powder 0.5%
tempura cornstarch 12.5%
Ultra Crisp CS 10.0% vodka 12.5% siphon* two charges
(National Starch
brand) ofN,O
cider tapioca starch 35% n/ a ha rd cider 100% baking soda 0.75%
flour 25% siphon* two charges
xanthan gum 0 .15% ofN,O
egg yolk potato starch 50% salt 2.5% ice water 100% thermal shock
flour 35% 1.0% malt vinegar 30%
glutinous rice flour 15% Old Bay
salt egg yolk 8%
beignet flour 33 .0% salt 2% carbonated 100% baking soda 1.5%
tapioca starch 33. 0 % water
trehalose 16.5% vodka 11 %
cornmeal co rnm eal 40.0% salt 1.5% buttermilk 100% Methoce l SGA 150 1.25%
flour 17.5% cayenne p e ppe r 0 .5% baking powder 0.60%
from page 3·333 *(we use 7l siphons;fill siphon at least halffull, and adjust quantity ofcharges as needed)
PLANT FOODS 163
SPOT PRAWN AND LOTUS ROOT Yields 600 g
TEMPURA WITH SMOKED WHITE SOY SAUCE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
75%
Shrimp meat 150g 7.5% 0 Combine, and blend to fine paste.
5%
Lard 15g 4% 0 Fill cavities of lotu s root slices with shrimp paste.
3.5% 0 Refrigerate until firm, about30 min.
Japanese potato starch lOg 3.5% 0 Peel.
3.5%
Egg yolk 8g 1% ® Refrige rate.
1% ® Combine flour, rice flour, and baking powder for tempura batter.
Egg white 7g 45%
0 Blend flour mixture with sake, vodka, and malt syrup until well incorporated.
Sake 7g 100%
® Transfer batter to siphon, and charge with two nitrous ox id e cartridges. Siphon batter into
White soy sauce 7g 75% bowl.
56%
Ginger, mas hed to paste 2g 50% ® Dip lotus root slices into batter to coat even ly.
50%
Salt 2g 6% @ Deep-fry lotus root slices and spot prawns in 190 oc 1 375 °Fo il until crisp and golden, about
1.5%
Young lotus roots, peeled 90 g 2 min.
50% @ Arrange on plates, and serve with smoked white soy sauce for dipping.
and sliced 1 em I :Y. in thick
Live spot prawns 200g
(four prawns)
Sake, cold 150g
Vodka 112g
All-purpose flour 100g
Rice flour 100g
Malt syrup 12g
Baking powder 3g
Smoked white soy sauce lOOg
see page 183
from page 5·201
FRIED PICKLES Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 200g 80%
All-purpose flour 130g 52% 0 Mix to make batter.
Trisol (Texturas brand) 180g 0 Allow to rest at room temperature for 30 min .
72%
(55%)*
Yeast (fresh) 4g 1.6%
(0.8%)**
Salt 2g 0 Season batter, and reserve.
Pickling cucumbers 250g 0.8% 0 Cut into slices 6 mm I \4 in thick, and reserve .
White wine vinegar 200g 100%
Water 150g
Sugar 125g 80 g ® Combine to make brine, and let coo l.
Salt 12.5 g
Garlic, thinly sliced 6.5g 60%
Celery seeds 0.5g
Chili flakes O.lg 50%
Dill 2g
5%
2.5%
0.3%
0.05%
0.8% ® Vacuum seal with cucumber sli ces and cooled brine.
0 Refrigerate for at least 12 h.
Frying oil as needed ® Dip pickle slices in batter.
® Deep-fry in 200 oc 1 390 °Foil for 2 min .
@ Drain on paper towels.
from page 5·75 *(% oftotal weight ofwater andflour usedfor holler)
**( % oftotal weight offirst three ingredients)
164 VOLUME 6 · KI TC HEN M ANUAL
CRISPY HALIBUT CHEEK ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields800g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
All-purpose wheat flour 200 g 50%
Rice flour 200g 50% 0 Sifttogether, and reserve.
Salt 4g 1%
Baking powd er 3g 0 .75% 0 Bl end.
Vodka 350g 87.5%
Water 200g 50% ® Wh isk into dry mixture until com pl ete ly incorporated.
Malt sy rup 12 g 3%
0 Pour in to 1 I siphon, and cha rge with o ne cartridge of nitrous oxide.
Halibut cheeks, clean ed 400g 100%
of co nnective tissue (fou r cheeks) ® Shake vigorously and rese rve siphon refrigerate d.
25% ® Du st Triso l even ly over cheeks.
Trisol (Texturas brand) lOOg
0 Skewer each cheek.
Neutral oil as needed
® Siphon batter into bowl.
® Coat cheeks eve nly with foam batte r.
@) Fry in 200 ' CI 400 ' Fo il.
@ Lift extra batter from bow l with fork, and drizz le onto cheeks to build lacy surfaces.
Make sure to flip cheeks in o il while drizzling batter, to build an eve n crust.
@ Remove each cheek from o il when its co re reaches 50 ' C I 122 ' F, about 6 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
from page 3·334
THE COLONEL'S FRIED CHICKEN INSPIRED BY CO LO NE L H AR L AN SANDERS Yields800 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chicken, drumsticks 800g 100%
Cake flour 200g 25% 0 Clean, pat dry o n paper towels, and rese rve.
All-purpose bleached 160g 20% 0 Combine and reserve.
wheat flour
Whole wheat flour 32 g 4% ® Grind sp ices and herbs finely.
Black peppercorns lO g 1.25%
White peppercorns 8g 1% 0 Combine with flour mi xture.
Paprika 4.5 g 0.56%
Onion powder 4g 0.5% ® Comb in e with seasoned flour mixture, and reserve.
Caraway seeds 2.5g 0.31 %
Nutmeg 1.5 g 0.18%
Sage, rubbed 0.7g 0.0 8%
Allspice, ground 0.5g 0.06%
Thyme 0.5 g 0.06%
Cayenne pepper 0.3g 0.03%
Bay leaf O.lg 0.01 %
Salt 24g 3%
Monosodium glutamate 14g 1.75%
(MSG)
Whole milk 120g 15% ® Blend together until smooth.
Eggs 60g 7.5%
0 Dip chi cken pieces in to egg mixture, and dredge in seaso ned flour mi xture.
® Pressure-fry coated chi cke n in 160 ' C I 325 ' Foil for 7 min. A lte rnative ly, fry in 180 ' C I 360 ' F
oi l until golden and cooked through, about12 min.
from page 3·336
PL AN T FOODS 165
MODERNIST FRIED CHICKEN Yieldsl kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chicken legs with ski n 1 kg (four legs) 100%
Water SOOg 50% <D Remove thigh bones from legs; leave lower leg bones in.
Salt 35 g 3.5% 0 Whisk togeth er until sa lt di sso lves to make brin e.
2%
Chicken skin, from w hole 20g 1% ® Vac uum sea l with prepared ch icken legs.
chicken
5% 0 Brine in refrigerato r for 5 h, or vacu um tumbl e for 30 min (see page 3·152), and th en drain.
Activa RM lO g 0 .5%
45% ® Cut pi eces of sk in to match dim ension s of exposed thigh meat.
Water so g ® Du st Activa over cut sk in pi eces and exposed, bone less thigh meat.
Baking soda 1.5%
Vodka Sg 0.2% 0 Press matc hing skin p ieces to meat so that no sk in rema in s exposed.
450 g 0 .1 %
0 .1 % ® Wrap eac h leg t ightl y w ith pl ast ic wrap, and refrigerate 12 h to let protein s bond.
Spray-dried buttermilk lSg ® Mix until bak ing soda dissolves .
see page 59 o r store-bought
Cayenne pepper 2g @) Mi x with baking sod a so luti on to make brin e.
lg @ Unwrap chi cke n legs, and vacuum sea l indi vidually with eq ual portions of brin e.
Bay leaf, powdered lg @ Brin e, refrigerated, for 3 h, or vacuum tumb le for 30 min.
@ Remove from bag, and pat dry.
Black pepper, coarse ly as needed @ Vacuum sea l dry chi cken legs.
ground
Frying oi l @ Cook so us vide in 64 "C I 147 "Fbath fo r 2 h.
@ Blot dry.
@ Whisk together spice mixture, and rese rve.
@ Fry thighs in 225 "CI 435 ' Foi l for 4 min.
@ Drain on paper towe ls, and du st with spice mi xture.
from page 3-337
OYSTER BEIGNET Yields 12 beignets
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tapioca starch BSg 35%
All-purpose flour 60g 25% <D Mix togeth er.
Baking soda 2g O.BS%
Xanthan gum 0.4g 0.17 % 0 Whisk into dry mixture to form batter.
Hard cider 240g 100%
® Transfe r batter to 1 I whipp ing sip hon.
Kum amoto oysters 12 oysters
Cornstarch as needed 0 Charge batter-filled siphon w ith two nitrou s oxide cartridges and shake vigorously.
Sa lt to taste
® Toss oysters in cornstarc h and skewe r them.
® Di spense batter in to conta iner, and dip oysters in batter to coat fu ll y.
0 Deep-fry oysters briefly in 200 "C I 390 "Fo il unti l crispy, gold en, and just wa rm ed through,
about2 min.
® Remove from skewe rs, dry o n paper towels, and season with salt.
fro m page 5·28
166 VO LUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUA L
BREADING
Breadings Density Texture Oil absorption CD Prep the core ingredient, if required.
moderate 0 Cut into even pieces. If the food pieces differ greatly in size,
Coating heavy crispy moderate
light crunchy some will overcook while others don't cook enough.
bread crumbs to crispy
processed grain (cream ofwheat, ® Dust food evenly with an adhesive coating. The Adhesives
rolled oats, instant polenta, light very crispy high table lists some that we recommend.
pressed rice flakes)
freeze-dried vegetable flakes varies crunchy low @ Dip in a liquid coating, and drain excess. See the Liquids
(carrot, corn, onion, potato) table for suggestions.
puffed snacks
® Roll food in breading to cover. All of the options listed in the
Adhesives Stickiness Flavor Breadings table can work well.
acceptable
Coating good egg @ Refrigerate breaded food until crust is firm, at least 1h.
albumin powder good raw flour
flour very good varies, raw starch 0 Deep-fry until golden. We fried these in 190 oc I 375 °F oil
starch very good neutral
modified starch neutral for about 90s. For other recom mend ed temperatures and
Trisol (Texturas brand) times, see individual recipes.
® Drain on paper towels, and season.
Liquids Film thickness Film flavor
thick egg
Coating medium egg
whole egg medium egg
egg yolk thin neutral
egg white foam thin methylcellulose
slurry oflOO% starch, 30% water
methylcellulose KlOOM, slurry, or
foam (100% water, 0.5% KlOOM)
from page 3·338-339
CRISPY OKRA Yields120 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Okra, cut in half lOOg 100%
lengthwise CD Combine, and let marinate for 5 min.
Lime juice 2g 2% 0 Drain.
Salt 2g 2%
Chili powder 1g 1% ® Coat okra in chickpea flour, and shake off excess.
Chickpea flour 35 g 35% @ Deep-fry okra until crispy and golden, about 3 min.
Frying oil as needed ® Drain on pap er towel-lined tray.
from page 3·338
PLANT FOODS 167
CROMESQUIS INSPIRED BY MARC MENEAU Yields 1.5 kg (50 cromesquis)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Red port, chi lled 450g 129%
160 Bloom gelatin 50g 14.3 % CD Disperse gelatin in port.
Raw duck foie gras 350g 100% 0 Simmer until reduced to 200 g, and reserve warm.
Heavy cream 600g 171 % ® Cut fo ie gras in to cubes.
14.3% @) Sear until exteriors are go ld en but centers are sti ll raw, about 1 min, a nd reserve warm.
® Whisk together and season.
Black truffle juice (store- 50g
bought) or mushroom jus
see page 37
Salt 15g 4.3 %
Black pepper, ground 0.2g 0.05%
Ultra-Sperse 3 6g 1.7% ® Dry blend powders, and disperse into cold cream mixture.
(0.5%)*
(National Starch brand) 0 Bring to simmer while blending to hydrate fully.
0.68%
Iota carrageenan 2.4g (0 .2%)* ® Blend in warm port re duction and foie gras until smooth.
low-acyl gellan 1.8 g 0.51 %
(Ke lcogel F, CP Kelco 30g (0 .75%)*
brand)
8.5% @ Fold into hot puree.
Black truffle, finely
minced ® Cast mixture in nonstick mold in layers 2 em I Y.. in thick.
@ Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
® Cut foie gras gel into 2 .5 em I 1 in cubes.
Trisol (Texturas brand) as needed @ Dredge cubes in Trisol.
Eggs 300g
Egg yolks 75 g 85% @ Blend until smooth .
Fine, dry bread crumbs 150 g
21.4%
43% @ Coat floured cubes in egg mixture, and then dredge in bread crumbs.
@ Refrigerate cubes for 2 h to harden crusts.
Frying oil as needed ® Fry cubes in 190 'C I 375 ' Foil until golden, about 2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
from page 3·340 *(%oftotal weightof.ftrst.ftve ingredients)
FRIED GREEN TOMATOES Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Green tomatoes, cored 300g 100%
CD Blanch for1 min.
Cultured buttermilk 150g 50% 0 Shock in ice-water bath .
Eggs, blended 150g 50%
Cornmea l 100g 35% ® Peel off skins.
Panko 25g 8.5%
Black pepper 0.8 g 0.25% @) Cut slices 8 mm I '}i'G in thick.
Cayenne pepper 0.2g 0.05%
Canolaoil as needed ® Blend to make wash.
Salt to taste ® Mix to make cornmeal breading.
from page 5·74
0 Dredge tomato slices in wash .
® Coat sli ces with cornmeal bread ing.
® Deep-fry in 200 ' C I 390 ' Foil for 2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
@ Season.
168 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
CORN CROQUETTA INSPIRED BY DAVID Kl NCH Yields 3SO g (24 croquettas)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Frozen sweet corn, 200g 67%
thawed CD Combine, and puree until smooth .
Heavy cream 90g 30% 0 Stra in through fine sieve, and reserve 300 g of corn puree.
Salt Sg 1.7%
Cayenne pepper 3g 1%
Vanilla seeds and pulp l.Sg O.S%
(from one
Corn puree, from above vanilla bean) 100% ® Disperse gelatin in 100 g of reserved corn puree.
160 Bloom gelatin 300g 3% ® Warm mixture until gelatin is fully d isso lved.
9g ® Whisk in remaining reserved corn puree.
SO% ® Cast mixture in layer2.S em 1 1 in thick in nonstick mo ld.
Water 100g 0.7S%
Methylcellulose E4M 1.Sg 2 .S% 0 Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
Crisp Coat UC Sg 2S% ® Bring water to simmer.
2S% ® Blend in methylcellulose until fully dissolved, 2-3 min .
(National Starch brand) @Refrigerate at least 4 h to hydrate.
Corn powder, freeze- SOg @ Cut gelled puree into 2.S em I 1 in cubes.
dried
seepagel88 SOg @ Dust cubes evenly with Crisp Coat to coat.
as needed @ Whip hydrated methylcellulose with electric whisk to form stiff and foamy peaks.
Panko @ Coat cubes evenly with whisked methylcellulose, and reserve .
@ M ix to make breading.
Frying oil @ Dredge foam-covered cubes in breading mix.
@ Refrigerate cubes to firm and bind crusts, about 30 min.
Salt to taste
from page 3·341 @ Fry cubes in 190 oc I 37S °Foil until golden, about 1V2 min.
@ Drain on paper towels.
@ Season.
PORK TROTTER BEIGNET Yields400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
600g 120%
Brown pork stock CD Reduce to about 100 g, until glaze is achieved.
see page 6 200% 0 Cool and reserve.
100%
Water 1 kg SO% ® Pressure-cook together at gauge pressure of1 bar I 1S psi for 2V2 h.
Pork trotter SOOg
Pork snout 2SO g 40% ® Remove bones from trotter and sno ut, and separate sk in and collagen from meat.
10% ® Dice skin and meat finely, keep ing them separate.
Shallots, minced 200g 8% ® Combine 120 g of meat and 30 g of skin, and reserve.
Neutral oil
Black trumpet so g 8% 0 Cook together until shallots and mushrooms are
mushrooms, minced 2%
Cured ham, brunoise 40g 0.44% very tender, about 20 min .
Grain mustard 0 .04% ® Remove from heat.
Fine sa lt 40g
Black pepper, coarse ly lOg 0.02% ® Fo ld with cooked pork into shallot mixture.
ground 2.2g 40% @ Wh isk in reserved pork glaze.
Nutmeg, grated 0.2g 20%
Eggs, whisked 6% @ Cast onto silicone mat in layer 1.S em I 3/! in thick.
Dried brioche crumbs 0.1 g
Methocel KlOOM (Dow 200g @ Refrigerate until set, at least 3 h.
brand) 100g @ Cut into cubes.
30g
@ Dredge each beignet cube in Methocel K1 OOM until evenly coated.
@ Roll cubes in egg, and then coat with brioche crumbs.
@ Refrigerate for at least 1 h before frying, to firm crusts .
@ Deep-fry cubes in 190 oc I 37S °Foil for 1 min, and then drain on paper towe ls.
from page S-38
PLANT FOODS 169
ONION RINGS Yields 250 g (about10 onion rings)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Onions, thinly sliced 750g 375%
Unsalted butter 100g 50% CD Saute until light golden, about 10 min and cool.
Water 150g 75% 0 Vacuum sea l cooked onions with water.
Onion stock, cold 45g 22.5% ® Cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 oFbath for 1 h.
see pagell 4g 2% @ Strain and cool onion stock. Measure 245 g for recipe.
Methocel A15C (Dow
brand) 1.5g ® Brin g onion stock to simmer, and disperse Methocel A15C and salt.
Salt 200g
Onion stock, cold, from ® Refrigerate Methocel solution for at least 8 h to hydrate fully, and reserve cold.
above 120g
3g 0.75% (J) Combine and blend all ingredients in food processor to fine, smooth paste.
Tapioca starch 100% ® Vacuum seal.
Salt 60%
1.5% ® Cook so us vid e in 93 oc I 200 oFbath for 20 min.
Yellow onions, thinly 500g
sli ced 50g 250% @ Coo l comp lete ly until hardened, at least 12 h.
25% ® Remove from bag, and grate with Microplane.
Neutral oil @ Dehydrate at 70 ' C I 160 °Funtil hardened, about 3 h.
50% ® Reserve breading in airtight conta in er.
Tapioca starch 100g 25% @ Brown onions over low heat.
Egg, blended 50g @ Deglaze with water as needed until very tender, about 40 min.
Frying oil as needed @ Drain excess oil, and blend to smooth puree.
® Cool comp letely, and measure 100 g.
from page 3·342 @ Blend 100 g of puree w ith Methocel solution, and transfer mixture to pastry bag.
@ Pipe onion ring shapes onto si li cone mat.
@) Freeze.
@ Dredge frozen onion rings in tapioca starch, and shake off excess.
@ Dip rings in egg.
@ Dredge rings in breading until evenly coated, and place on sil icone mat.
@ Deep-fry rings in 190 oc I 375 °Foil for 2 min, ensuring that puree stays inside coating.
@ Drain on paper towe ls.
170 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUA L
RAZOR CLAM "TAKOYAKI" Yields 250 g (10 balls)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Live razor clams 900g 450%
Ginger, thinly sliced Sg 2.5% 0 Vacuum seal together.
Scallions, thinly sliced Sg 2.5% 0 Steam at 100 oc I 212 °Ffor 6 min .
Sake (dry) 30g 15%
® Strain clam juice, and reserve 50 g.
Tokyo negi (Japanese 225 g 112.5%
leek), finely minced 0 Shuck clams, reserving any additionaljuice.
Unsalted butter, cubed 40g 20%
Heavy cream 150g 75 % ® Mince clam meat, and reserve.
Clam juice, from above SOg 25 %
@ Sweat until tender, about 3 min.
Clam cream, from above 200g 100% 0 Add, and bring to simmer.
2%
Salt 4g 0.5% ® Strain, and measure 200 g of clam cream.
® Refrigerate until cold.
Ultra-Sperse 3 1g 0.2% @ Wh isk into cold clam cream , and bring to simmer to hydrate.
0.15 % @ Puree with immersion blender over ice -water bath to form fluid gel.
(National Starch brand) @ Fold in reserved minced clam meat.
25%
Iota carrageenan 0.4 g 0 .1 25% @ Pipe mixture into spherical silicone molds 2 em I :Y. in. in diam e ter.
25% @ Freeze until gel balls are hardened, at least 45 min.
Low-acyl ge ll an (Gellan F, 0.3g
CP Kelco brand)
Water, boiling SOg @ Disperse methylce llul ose into boiling water, blending consta ntl y.
@ Cool and reserve.
Methocel K100M 0 .25g
(Dow brand) @ Dust over balls.
@ Whip methylcellulose mixture into stifffoam.
Batter BindS SOg @ Dip dusted balls into foam to ful ly cover surface.
@ Roll coated balls in panko.
(Natio na l Starch brand) @ Dip breaded ba ll s in methylcellu lose foam and then panko once more.
@ Refrigerate to firm crust, at least 2 h.
Panko, finely ground SOg 25 %
@ To serve, deep-fry takoyaki balls in 190 oc I 375 °Fo il until golden, about 1 min. Set in centers
Mutsu app le, cut into 20g 10%
batons ofsmal l bowls.
Grey mullet bottarga lOg 5% @ Toss together apple and sea beans and place with takoyaki balls.
Sea beans, blanched lOg 5% @ Season bowls with li me juice and salt.
Frying oil as needed @ Garnish with shavings of bottarga.
Lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5·199
PLANT FOODS 171
CRISPY CORN PUDDING Yields 780 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the popcorn puree:
Whole milk 800g 355% 0 Bring milk to boil, and remove from heat.
Popped corn 140g 62% 0 Add corn, cover, and steep for 30 min.
® Puree mixture.
0 Pass through fine sieve .
® Cool.
@ Measure 350 g of popcorn puree, and reserve.
For the corn pudding: 225 g 100% 0 Saute until lightly golden.
Frozen white corn, thawed 20g 9%
Unsalted butter 350g 155% ® Cool and reserve.
Popcorn puree, cold, from ® Disp erse gelatin in popcorn puree.
above 20g 9% @ Bring to simmer to dissolve.
160 Bloom gelatin (5.7%)* @ Remove from heat, and cool.
44.5%
Heavy cream 100g 16% @ Blend until smooth with sauteed white corn and gelled puree.
15% @ Pass through fine sieve.
Egg yolks 36g 3%
1.5% @ Cast in mold in layer 2.5 em I 1 in thick.
Maple syrup (Grade B) 34g 0.004%
® Refrigerate until set, at least 4 h.
Salt 7g @ Cut into cubes.
Cayenne pepper 3g
Thyme essential oil 0.01 g
Forthe corn pudding crust:
Freeze-dried corn 200g 89% @ Combine to make breading, and reserve.
see page 188
Panko 200g 89%
44.5%
All-purpose bleached flour 100g 22% @ Combine.
@ Dredge co rn cub es in starch blend until eve nly coated .
Ultra-Crisp (National Starch SOg
brand)
Eggs, whisked 125 g 56% @ Dip cubes in eggs, and finish by coating with reserved breading. Refrigerate until use.
Frying oil as needed ® Deep-fry corn pudd ing cubes in 190 •c I 375 "Foil until golden, about 1 min. Drain on paper
from page 5·104 towels.
*(%ofweight ofpopcorn puree)
1 72 VOLU M E 6 · KITCHEN MA NU AL
SALTING, PICKLING, AND FERMENTING
0 Select an ingredient and a preservation method. The Best Bets for and sugar preserves, cook all ingredients over low heat until they are very
tender and their surfaces are nearly dry. Keep fermented pickles or
Preservation table on page 182 suggests many good options. sauerkraut unsealed in a dark, cool place for at least two weeks; check
that li quid exuded from the ingredients always covers the solids.
® Mix brine or cure, and combine with aromatics. Use the table below to
determine quantities. Note that weights are scaled in proportion to the 0 Refrigerate (nonferme nted preserves only). After cook ing, cover the
vinegar for vinegar pickles and to the fruit or vegetable for other kinds of
preserves. ingredients comp lete ly with brine or cure, vacuum seal them or place
them in an airtight container, and then refrigerate them to pickle or cure.
® Cook or ferment. For sour or sweet vinegar pickles, bring the brine and
aromat ics to a simmer, and pour over the prepared ingredients. For o il ® Keep brined and cured products refrigerated.
Formulas for Preserving Produce
Product Ingredient (scaling) Aromatics (sca lin g) See page
sour vinegar pickles vinegar 100% garlic 1.5% 176
water 40% black peppercorns 0.5%
salt 4% mustard seeds 0.5%
calcium lactate (opt ional, to firm) 1% red ch ilies (optional) 0.2%
sweet vinegar pickles vin egar 100% coriander seeds 1.00% 178
water 70% star an ise 1.00%
sugar 40% ginger 1.00%
s a lt 5% lemon zest 0.40%
pectin methylesterase enzyme 0.4% white peppercorns 0.25%
(NovoShape brand, optional, to firm)
salt pickles fruit or vegetable 100% n/ a
salt 9%
sugar 9%
fermented pickles fruit or vegetable 100% n/ a 177
salt 1.5%
lactic ac id (optional, to enhance flavor) 0.2%
sugar preserves fruit or vegetable 100% lemo n zest 0.5% 180
sugar 100% vanilla pulp and seeds 0.1%
water 100%
from page 3·348
Note that the table above does not include the preparation steps that should be taken to pasteurize the food. Store any unpasteurized foods in the refrigera-
tor as you would fres h foods. Canning and heat preservation require more intense pasteurization; see Cann ing, page 2·75, for details.
PRESERVED PEAR IN MUSTARD OIL Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Anjou pears 250g 100%
0 Peel and core.
Mustard oil lOg 4%
Yellow mustard seeds lOg 4% ® Scoop 12 spheres with melon bailer, and reserve.
Curry leaves 2g 0.8% ® Toast seeds and curry leaves in oi l until gold en, about 3 min, and reserve.
Water 100g 40%
White wine vinegar 75 g 30% 0 Combine remaining ingred ients, and warm to make syrup.
Glucose syrup DE 40 50g 20%
Sugar 25g 10% ® Add mustard oi l mixture.
® Vacuum sea l pear spheres with syrup.
from page 5-283
0 Refrigerate for at least 2 h before using, and up to 24 h total, after which pear spheres will
become too soft.
PLAN T FOODS 1 73
PRESERVED LEMONS ADAPTED FROM BRADFORD THOMPSON Yields 2 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
lemons (organic)
3 kg 100% CD Cut off one slice, 2.5 em I 1 in thick, from one end of each lemon.
(about 25 large)
0 Cut each lemon as if to quarter, but keep lemon intact by not fully cutting through its flesh and
not cutting through its unsliced end.
Salt 1.5 kg 50% ® Reserve lemons in large bowl.
26 .6%
Sugar 800g 1.6% @) Combine.
0.8%
Black peppercorns SOg ® Place five 11 I 32 fl oz cann ingjars with lids in boiling water to sterilize.
0.8%
Cinnamon sticks, 25g 0.6% @ Air-dry sterilized ja rs and lids on rack.
crushed lightly 0.6%
0.3% 0 Open up each lemon w ithout breaking its unsliced end; lemon should resemble
Coriander seeds 25g
a bloomed flower.
Fennel seeds 20g
® Sprinkle seasoned salt generously inside lemons.
Saffron threads 18g
® Pack lemons into canning jars, five per jar, covering each layer with remaining salt mixture.
Star anise, crushed lightly lOg
@ Seal jars tightly and refrigerate. Preserved lemons can be used after 4 wk but are best after
3- 4 mo. Store refrigerated for up to 1 y.
Black onion seeds Sg 0.2%
from page 3·350
PICKLED GARLIC Yields 75 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Garlic cloves lOOg 100%
CD Blanch for 3 min.
White wine vinegar 200g 200%
Water 75 g 75 % 0 Drain.
Sugar 25g 25 % ® Arrange in single layer in rigid container.
Thyme Sg 5%
Salt 4g 4% 0 Combine, and bring to boil.
from page 5·26
® Pour over garlic cloves.
@ Cool.
0 Refrigerate for at least 12 h before serving.
PICKLED TAPIOCA PEARL Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 200g 200%
Tapioca pearls 100 g 100% CD Combine.
Rice wine vinegar 110g 110% 0 Simmer until pearls are te nder and translucent, about 20 min.
Oyster juice 40g 40%
see page 81 ® Drain.
Sugar lSg 15%
lime juice lOg 10% 0 Combine to make brine.
Salt 3g 3%
from page 5·207 ® Mix together brine and cooked tapioca pearls.
@ Vacuum seal, and refri gerate.
1 7 4 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN M ANU AL
KIMCHI ADAPTED FROM DAVID CHANG Yields650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sugar 75g 9%
Salt 22g 2.6% CD Combine salt with 30 g of sugar.
Napa cabbage head 825 g 100%
with leaves attached 0 Rub mixture thoroughly into leaves while keeping cabbage head intact.
100g 12% 0 Cover, and refrigerate for12 h.
Garlic, finely minced 65g 8%
Fish sauce 62g 7.5% 8) Drain and reserve.
Light soy sauce 48g 6% ® Combine with remaining 45 g of sugar.
Korean chili powder 37g 4.5% ® Rub mixture complete ly into leaves, keeping head intact.
Scallions, minced 35 g 4%
Ginger, finely minced 30 g 4% 0 Cover, and store at 18-24 ' CI 64-75 ' Ffor 24 wk to ferment. Final pH should be less
Carrot, julienne 7g 1%
Dried salted shrimp than 4.0.
from page 3·352 ® To serve, cut individual leaves away from core.
WATERMELON RIND KIMCHI Yields140 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 500g
Salt 35 g 250% CD Whisk together until salt and ac id have fully dissolved, to make pickling brine.
Scallions, thinly sliced 30g
Sugar 25g 17.5%
Ginger, minced 20g
Garlic, minced 8g 15%
Lactic acid 6g
12 .5%
10%
4%
3%
(1.2%)*
Dried shrimp, minced 5g 2.5%
Bird's eye chilies, minced 2g 1% 0 Vacuum seal rind pieces with brine.
100% 0 Refrigerate for12 h.
Watermelon rind, peeled 200g
8) Drain.
and cut into strips 5 em I
2 in wide
® Refrigerate until use.
from page 5·286 *(%oftotal weight ofwater)
NUKAZUKE Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 1 kg 100%
Salt 200g 20% CD Combine.
Rice bran (nuka) 1 kg 100% 0 Stir until salt is completely dissolved.
Ginger, cut into chunks 20g 2% 0 Combine.
Cabbage leaves 15 g 1.5%
8) Add solution from above.
Carrots 200g 20% ® Cover, and leave at room temperature for 2 wk; stir once daily.
Japanese cucumbers 200g 20% ® Discard cabbage leaves and gin ger; reserve rice bran mixture.
(or Persian)
Radishes 100g 10% 0 Rub surfaces of vegetables with salt.
Salt as needed
® Place in deep crock with rice bran mixture; bury vegetab les comp lete ly in mixture.
® Cover top of crock tightly with plastic wrap.
@ Store in dry place at room temperature until desired texture is ach ieved, 4-24 h.
@ To serve, remove vegetables from rice bran mixture, and rinse.
@ Reserve rice bran mixture, refrigerated, for future pickling.
from page 3·354
PLANT FOODS 175
SOUS VIDE CUCUMBER PICKLES Yields3oog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Small pickling cucumbers 300g 100% CD Slice to 4 mm I Y, in thick, and reserve.
White wine vinegar 350g 117% ® Combine, a nd bring to boil.
50% ® Remove brine from heat, and cool.
Water 150g 27%
2.7% 0 Refrigerate to cool completely.
Sugar 80g 0.3%
0.3%
Salt 8g 0.67%
(0.4%)*
Black peppercorns 1g
Caraway seeds 1g
NovoShape PME enzyme 2g
(optional, Novozymes
brand)
Fresh dill sprigs 8g 2.7% ® Add dill and sliced cucumbers to chilled brine.
® Vacuum seal.
0 Refrigerate for1-2 d.
from page 3·353 *(%oftotal weight ofvinegar and water)
GARLIC CONFIT Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE Pressure-cooked garlic con fit has
Olive oil a darker appearance and deeper
Garlic cloves, peeled SOOg 200% CD Place garlic cloves and aro matics in mason jars, an d flavor than so us vide garlic con fit
does. This recipe can also be
Rosemary sprigs 250g 100% cover w ith o il. made with other typical Provenc;al
Thyme sprigs ® Place mason jars in pressure cooker, and pour water aromatics, such as fenn e l seed,
(about 35 cloves) bay leaf, lavender, and sage, instead
halfway up their sides. of-or in add ition to- rosemary and
3g 1.2% thyme.
® Pressure cook at 1 bar I 15 psi (gauge) for 2 h.
3g 1.2% 0 Alternatively, vacuum seal together, and cook so us
vide in 88 •c 1 190 •Fbath for 7 h.
® Se rve, or cool and refrigerate.
from page 3·354
AROMATIC ALSATIAN MU STARD Yields245g
INGREDIENT Q U A N T ITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yellow mustard seeds 75 g 100%
Cider vinegar 190g 253% CD Blanch three times in sca lding water, discarding water each time to remove bitterness.
Fennel, brunoise 2.2g 2.9% ® Combine seeds with vinegar.
2%
Tarragon, finely minced 1.5g 1.6% ® Refrigerate for12 h.
1.33%
Coriander seeds, ground 1.2g 1.1% 0 Combin e with soaked mustard seeds in food processor.
Salt 1 g ® Puree for1 min to coarse texture.
® Vacuum seal mustard.
0 Refrigerate for at least 7 d before use.
Black cardamom seeds, 0.8g
ground
Ground cinnamon 0.7g 0.9%
0.9%
Ground cloves 0.7g 0.7%
0 .3%
Black pepper, ground O.Sg
Bay leaf, finely minced 0.2g
from page 5·37
176 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
SAUERKRAUT Yields 600 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Savoy cabbage (green 2 kg 0 Remove leaves, and cut out and discard their central ribs.
cabbage, red cabbage, 0 Slice leaves into fine ribbons.
rutabaga, or turnips may
be substituted)
Salt 30 g 1.5% ® Toss with cut leaves.
0 Pack salted leaves in crock or other deep, opaque container.
® Cover mouth of container with cheesecloth, and top with clean rock or other heavy, sanitized
object.
® Store at 18-24 oc I 64-75 °Ffor 2-4 wk, or until pH is below 4.0. Cabbage must become fully
submerged in its own juices. This should occur by the third day; if not, add 1%salt brine to
cover.
0 Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate sa uerkraut with brine until need ed .
from page 3-351
BRAISED SAUERKRAUT Yields480 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
60%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 90g 50% 0 Saute together, without a llowing onions to color, until very tender, abo ut 25 min.
20%
Goose fat 75g 100% 0 Add to onion mixture.
Garlic, finely minced 30g 100% ® Cook until cabbage is very tender and liquid is reduced by half, abo ut 30 min.
Cabbage sauerkraut 150g
see recipe above
Vegetable stock 150g
see page 6 and page 13
Riesling (dry) 105g 70 %
66.7%
Rutabaga sauerkraut 100g
see recipe above
Muscat (dry) 50g 33.3%
0.33%
Bay leaf O.Sg 0.13% 0 Comb ine in sachet.
0.1%
Black peppercorns 0.2g 0.07% ® Add sac het to onion and ca bbage mixture, a nd continue to cook until most of liquid has
0.07% evaporated, about 25 min.
juniper berries 0.15g
® Remove sachet.
Cloves 0.1 g
0 Season sauerkraut.
Coriander seeds 0.1 g
Salt to taste
from page 5·39
PICKLED FIGS Yields400 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Red wine vinegar 350g 175%
Dried black figs 200g 100% 0 Vacuum seal together.
Sugar 200g 100% 0 Cook so us vide in 80 oc / 176 °Fbath for 4 h.
White balsamic vinegar 195g 97.5%
Balsamic vinegar 125 g 62.5% ® Cool completely.
Lemon, thinly sliced 20g 10%
Ginger, peeled and 4g 2% 0 Refrige rate until use.
thinly sliced
Cinnamon stick 3.5 g 1.75%
Star anise, crushed 1.5g 0.75%
Cardamom seeds, black O.Sg 0.25%
Black peppercorns 0.2g 0.1%
from page 5·137
PLANT FOODS 177
COMPRESSED DILL-PICKLED VEGETABLES Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Red bell peppers, 100g 33% CD Cut into fine julienne.
seeded and peeled
Cucumbers 175g 58% ® Peel and slice on diagonal1 mm I X• in thick with mandoline. Yield is about 100 g.
33 %
Hon-shimeji mushrooms, 100g ® Bring water and saltto boil.
caps only 33% @ Blanch mushrooms for 2 min.
0.67% ® Shock in ice-water bath.
Water 100g 50% @ Drain and reserve.
Salt 2g 100% 0 Cut in half lengthwise.
50%
Red pearl onions, peeled 150g 16.7% ® Vacuum seal.
2.8%
White wine vinegar 300g 2.5 % ® Blanch in 95 "CI 200 "Fbath for4 min.
Distilled water 150g 0.5%
Sugar 50g 0.5 % @) Separate into petals, and reserve.
Dill 8.5g @ Combine, and bring to boil to ma ke pickling brine.
Salt 7.5g @ Pour approximately 100 g of brine over each vegetable: bell peppers, cucumbers, mushrooms,
Black peppercorns 1.5g
Caraway seeds 1.5g and onions.
from page 5·58 @ Cool vegetables completely.
@ Serve, or vacuum seal separately and refrigerate.
PICKLED JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES Yields280 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Champagne vinegar 150g 100%
30g 20% CD Combine to make pickling brine.
Sugar 5g 3.3 %
100g 67% ® Vacuum seal with brine, and refrigerate.
Salt
Jerusalem artichokes,
peeled and cut into
0.5 em I 1,4 in cubes
from page 5·131
PICKLED RAMPS Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 200g 100%
White wine vinegar 200g 100% CD Combine and bring to simmer.
Sugar 80g 40%
Salt 12g 6% ® Pour wa rm brine over bulbs.
Yellow mustard seeds 3g 1.5% ® Cool mixture.
Black peppercorns 2.5g 1.25% @ Vacuum seal.
Coriander seeds 1.5g 0 .75% ® Refrigerate for at least 12 h.
Bay leaf O.Sg 0.25 %
Ramp bulbs, cleaned 450g 225%
from page 5·118
178 VOlUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAl
PICKLED LEMON Yields125 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lemons 100g 100%
CD Slice 1 mm I X• in thick.
Water lOOg 100% 0 Place in rigid container and reserve.
White wine vinegar SOg 50%
Sugar 25g 25% ® Combine to make brine.
@) Bring to simmer to disso lve sugar.
® Pour warm brine over lemon slices.
® Cool.
0 Vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
from page 5·275
PICKLED CELERY ROOT Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Celery juice, clarified 125g 125% CD Combine to make brine.
(from 250 g
celery)
White wine vinegar lOOg 100%
30%
Sugar JOg 5%
100%
Salt Sg
1%
Celery root, peeled and 100g 0 .5% 0 Vacuum seal with brine.
thinly sliced
® Refrigerate until use.
Black peppercorns 1g
Coriander seeds, toasted 0.5 g
from page 5·133
TOMATO CONFIT ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields150 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Tomatoes 1 kg 100%
CD Core tomatoes.
Glycerol 20g 2% 0 Cut small X in blossom end of each tomato.
Water 20g 2%
Extra virgin olive oil 40g 4% ® Blanch until skin begins to lift at X, about 10 s.
Garlic, thinly sliced 15g 1.5% @) Shock in ice-water bath for 2 min. Peel off skins.
Thyme leaves 4g 0.4% ® Cut in half vertically, and scoop out seeds.
Bay leaves, finely sliced 1g 0.1 % ® Pat dry.
Salt 2g 0.2%
Sugar 2g 0 .2% 0 Place cut side down on baking sheet lined with silicone mat, and reserve.
® Combine.
® Brush evenly on tomatces.
@ Brush evenly on tomatoes.
@ Sprinkle equally and evenly over tomatoes.
® Season tomatoes evenly.
@ Dry in 110 'C I 225 ' Foven for about 1 h.
@ Turn tomatoes over, reduce heat to 95 ' C I 200 ' F, and dry until deep red and shriveled, 3-4 h.
Cool.
@ Discard dried herbs from tomatoes.
@ Vacuum seal tomatoes with their cooking oils.
® Refrigerate until use.
from page 5·62
PLANT FOODS 179
PICKLED BING CHERRY Yields 650 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Bing cherries SOOg 100%
Red wine vinegar 265g 53% CD Arrange in single layer in rigid plastic container that fits in vacuum sealer chamber.
Sour cherry juice 150g 30% 0 Bring remaining ingredients to boil to make brine.
(store-bought)
Sugar 130 g 26% ® Pour brine over cherries, and cool at room temperature.
Water l30g 26%
from page 5·268 0 Pull fu ll vacuum three times on cooled cherries.
® Vacuum sea l and re frigerate until use. Both cherries and their pick ling brine are delicious and
versatile acidifiers for dressings and sauces.
GREEN PAPAYA PICKLE Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Papaya (semiripe), peeled 225 g 90%
Cane vinegar 250g 100% CD julienne a nd reserve.
Red onions, finely minced 75 g 30% 0 Reserve 150 g of vinegar.
Black mustard seeds 25g 10 %
Garlic, finely minced 8g 3% ® Combine 100 g of vinegar with re maining ingredients, and grind to coarse paste.
Ginger, finely minced 8g 3%
Bird's eye chili, 1.5g 0.5%
finely minced
Neutral oil 20g 8% 0 Fry paste over medium heat, stirring constantly, until aromatic but not colored, aboutlO min.
Sugar 40g 16%
Green chili, minced Sg 2% ® Add to cooked paste with reserved 150 g of vinegar.
Salt Sg 2% ® Fold julienned papaya into warm paste.
Turmeric (fresh), grated 4.5g 1.8%
from page 5·97 0 Simmer for 2 min.
® Cool comp letely, vacuum seal, and refrigerate until use.
PICKLED BUTTERNUT SQUASH YieldslOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
3%
Black peppercorns 3g 3% CD Combine in sachet.
3%
Coriander seeds, toasted 3g 2.5% 0 Combine, and bring to boil.
1.5%
Star anise, lightly crushed 3g 0 .1% ® Remove from heat, and ad d sachet.
130%
Orange zest, grated 2 .5 g 80% 0 Infuse for 3 min, discard sachet.
30%
Dried bitter orange peel l.5g 1% ® Place squash in co ntain e r.
100% ® Pour hot brine over squash.
Saffron threads 0.1 g
0 Place open container in vacuum chamber, and pull vacuum several times to infuse squash
White wine vinegar l30g
thoroughly.
Water 80g ® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Sugar 30g
Salt 1g
Butternut squash, 100g
brunoise
from page 5·64
180 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
CRISPY DOSA Yields BOO g (12 dosas)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
jasmine rice 400g 100%
Whole black gram 200g 50% CD Soak together in water at room temperature for about 3 h.
(urad dal) 0 Drain.
Flattened rice flakes 25g
(poha) 6.25%
Water BSOg
Water 100g 212.5% ® Combine with soaked grains and soaking liquid, and grind until smooth and fluffy.
Coconut (fresh), grated 30 g 25%
Salt lOg 7.5 % 0 Add up to 100 g more water, as necessary, to achieve thin pancake-batter consistency.
2.5%
Lactic acid 2.5g 0.63 % ® Measure 500 g of batter, and ferment in covered container at room temperature for 2 h.
as needed Refrigerate remaining batter.
Ghee 20%
see page 4·213 30% ® Add to batter, and continue to ferment for 30 min.
37.5 %
Masala curry sauce BOg 20% 0 Bring nonstick skillet or griddle to medium heat.
see page 225 120 g
150g ® Ladle batter onto skillet. Use an outward spiral motion to spread evenly.
So us vide cooked BOg
potatoes, cubed ® Drizzle 5 ml I 1 tsp of butter around edges of each dosa.
Coconut chutney foam @ Cook until crispy and golden on bottom.
see page325
@ Combine potatoes and masala sauce; warm through.
Puffed lentils
see page342 @ Warm foam in 60 "C I 140 "Fbath for 20 min .
from page 3·355 @ Fill dosas with potatoes, foam, and puffed lentils; serve on side .
YUZU AND KUMQUAT MARMALADE Yields475 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
40%
Fructose 100g 1% CD Dry blend.
High-methoxyl pectin (Brown 2.5 g
Ribbon HV, Obipektin brand)
Salt 1.5 g 0 .6%
22%
Yuzu juice (fresh or bottled) 55 g 0 Reserve 5 g of ju ice.
100%
Kumquats, quartered 250g ® Blend powder mixture with remaining 50 g.
2B %
Mandarin juice, 70g 0 Bring juice to boil to make syrup.
freeze-concentrated
see page 2·337 0.2Bg ® Remove from heat, and cool completely.
Guargum 0.2g ® Blanch once in boiling water, and cool completely.
2g
Xanthan gum Sg 0 Combine with cooled yuzu syrup.
Citric acid ® Vacuum seal together.
Yuzu juice, from above ® Cook so us vide in BO "C 1 176 "F bath until very tender, about 4 h.
from page 3·356 @ Remove from bag to cool completely, and reserve.
@ Combine, and hand-blend until gums are completely incorporated.
@ Fold into cooled marmalade base.
0.11%
(0.2%)*
O.OB%
(0.76%)*
O.B% @ Whisk into marmalade.
2% @ Add to marmalade, and refrigerate.
*(% oftotal weightofyuzu and mandarin juices)
PLANT FOODS 181
ENZYME-TREATED PINK GRAPEFRUIT Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
300g 30%
Pink grapefruit, peeled lkg 100% 0 Separate carefu ll y into segments, leaving membranes intact, and reserve.
2g 0.2% 0 Combine, and transfer to sanitized jar.
Water
1g 0.1% ®Add grapefruit segments.
Pectinex Ultra SP-L
(Novozymes brand) 0 Seal jar.
Pectinex Smash XXL ®Refrigerate for 12 h to soak.
(Novozymes brand)
® Remove treated segments from water.
0 Brush away any undissolved grapefruit membrane.
from page 3·357
Best Bets for Preservation
Ingredient Vinegar pickle Salt pickle Fermented pickle Sugar preserve
apple ./ ./ ./ ./
./
apricot ./ ./
./
bean sprout ./ ./ ./
./
beet ./ ./ ./ ./
./ ./
bell pepper ./ ./ ./ ./
./ ./
cabbage ./
./ ./
carrot ./ ./ ./
./
cauliflower ./ ./
./ ./
cherry ./ ./
./ ./
chili ./ ./ ./
./ ./ ./
citrus ./ ./ ./
./ ./
coconut, young ./ ./
./
cucumber ./ ./ ./
./ ./
eggplant ./ ./
./
fig ./ ./
./
garlic ./ ./ ./ ./
./
grape ./
./
green bean ./ ./
./
lychee ./ ./
./
mango, green ./ ./
./
melon ./ ./
./
mustard seeds ./ ./
mushroom ./
okra ./
olive ./
onion ./
papaya, green ./
peach ./
pear ./
pineapple ./
radish ./
rhubarb ./
rutabaga ./
seaweed ./
tomato ./
turnip ./
zucchini ./
from page 3·348
182 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
HEAT-TREATED FRUIT Best Bets for Heat-Treated Fruit
CD The table at right suggests a numb er offruits for which this process works Warm bath Shelf life, Shelf life after
treatment
well. Make ce rtain the water bath has reached the temperature indi cated Fruit (oc) (oF) (min) untreated 20
before you drop the fruits in whole. 11
blueberry 60 140 h 7
0 Stir gently and submerge the fruits if necessary. If you remove them after 25
citrus, 60 140 20 6 15
the time indicated and dry them thoroughly, you can expecttheirshelf segments 15
life to increase by half or more, as noted in the table. 12
grape 55 131 V2 5 10
melon 12
so 122 60
pear 45 113 40 10
strawberry 60 140 '/4 9
7
tomato 60 140 V2
from page 3·359
SMOKED PLANT FOODS
CD Select and prepare the ingredient. The table below offers a number of ® Set the smoker temperature and relative humidity to the va lu es
indicated. For smokers without temperature or humidity controls, place
good options. a pan of water on the bottom rack of the smoker, and use a wet-bulb
thermometer to monitor the wet-bu lb temperature.
0 Load the wood mixture into the smoker. Do not soak the wood chips
0 Smoke for the time indicated in the table.
first, because that results in acidic smoke (see page 2·140).
Best Bets for Smoked Plant Foods
Smoke
Ingredient Wood Dry-bulb Wet-bulb Relative See page
apple temp. temp. humidity Time
asparagus (scaling) (oC) (oF) (oC) (oF)
corn, on the cob (h) Note or example use
eggplant apple 100% 65 149 46 114 40 24 serve plain, or in tarte tatin
fresh pasta
cherry 100% 7 45 4 39 80 24 saute quickly
olive oil (or other oak 100%
oils and fats) 10 so 3 37 60 24 cook sous vide, and baste with smoked
onion, butter and pimenton
cooked sous vide maple 25%
pecan
pineapple hickory 100% 65 149 46 114 40 6 baba ghanouj, moussaka
oak 100%
pine nut 10 so 3 37 60 24 pasta carbonara
potato,
cooked sous vide nectarine 33% 10 so 3 37 60 12 vinaigrette, brushed on grilled bread
oak 100%
nectarine 33%
oak 100% 65 149 54 129 60 24 cook so us vide, and finish in a roasting 139
pan with bacon-infused butter
maple 25%
apple 100% 65 149 46 114 40 6 briefly roast, and toss with pecan oil, salt
oak 100% 3 37 60
10 so 24 briefly grill, and brush with lim e
and vanilla syrup
maple 25%
hickory 100% 30 86 21 70 60 4 pesto
oak 100% 3 37 60
10 so 24 cook so us vide with 2 g (1% total weight next, 5·193
of potatoes) of high-quality liquid smoke
nectarine 33% mixed into the butter
rice oak 100% 10 so 3 37 60 24 paella valenciana 5·239
nectarine 33% so 122
soy sauce, dark oak 100% 10 so 40 104 60 24 shiro dashi or miso soup
nectarine 33%
soy sauce, white oak 100% 65 149 3 37 60 24 spot prawn tempura 164
nectarine 33%
watermelon hickory 100% 46 114 40 2 dessert for a barbecue
from page 3·362
PLANT FOODS 183
SMOKED POTATOES WITH VIN JAUNE SABAYON Yields 625 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM ALAIN PASSARO
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
100%
Ratte fingerling potatoes, 100 g 100% 0 Vacuum seal together.
peeled 0 Cook so us vide in 90 ' C / 194 ' Fbath for1 h.
50%
Baby Yukon gold 100 g 75% ® Remove potatoes from bag. If smoking is not an option, vacuum
potatoes, peeled 50% seal raw potatoes with a mixture
200% 0 Cold-smoke cooked potatoes at 10 ' C / 50 ' Ffor 24 h, of water and good-quality liquid
Unsalted butter, melted 50g 156% smoke in step 1. Use 2 g of liquid
Vinjaune 75g 40% or hot-smoke in stove-top smoker for 30 min. smoke for every 100 g of water,
Shallots, finely minced 50g 5% and include enough smoke-water
® Cool. mixture to equa l the weight of the
20% potatoes.
20% ® Vacuum seal potatoes with butter.
White vegetable stock 200g
0 Combine vin jaune with sha llots.
see page 6 and page 13 156g
40g ® Reduce to syrup.
Egg yolks 5g ® Strain, and measure 10 g ofvin jaune reduction.
Heavy cream to taste
Lemon juice ® Blend together fully with vin jaune reduction.
Salt @ Cook mixture so us vide in 70 ' C / 158 ' F bath for
Roasted hazelnut oil 20g 35 min.
Toasted hazelnuts, 20 g @ Transfer sabayon to 1 Isiphon, and charge with two
quartered
Ginger, finely diced 7g cartridges of nitrous oxide.
Chives, finely minced to taste @ Keep siphon warm in 62 ' C / 144 ' F bath until ready to
Salt to taste
from page 3·363 use.
@ Warm sealed potatoes in same bath used for sabayon
for 10 min.
@ Remove potatoes from bath and bag; divide equa ll y
among four bowls.
@ Dispense warm sabayon around potatoes.
@ Garnish potatoes.
7%
SMOKED POTATO CONFIT Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCAliNG PROCEDURE
100%
Yukon Gold potatoes, 200g 0 Cut out3 em by 6 em / 1'/t in by 2'/t in cylinders using ring cutter.
hot-smoked (four potatoes) 0 Vacuum seal together.
see page 183 50g 50% ® Heat potatoes in 70 ' C / 15B ' F bath.
1.5g 1.5%
Extra virgin olive oil
Salt
from page 5·195
184 VOLUME 6 ·K I TCHEN MANUAL
DEHYDRATED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
CD Choose a product. Use the table below to se lect the dehydrated form 0 Comb in e sli ces, puree, juice, or foam with other ingred ie nts.
you wish to make, cross-referenced with the kind of produce yo u are Assign a sca ling valu e of100% to the fruit or vegetab le preparation,
using. a nd weigh the othe r ingredi e nts proportionally. For examp le, use 0.8 g
aga r and 2.5 g of glycero l for eve ry 100 g of raspberry puree to make
0 Se lect a texture. The table on the next page presents our a fl ex ibl e raspberry leather.
recommendations for c hips, papers, leathers, glasses, a nd wafers. ® De hydrate by using the temperature a nd time li sted.
® Prepare the fru it or vegetab le as indicated in the tab le .
Best Bets for Dehydration
Ingredient Chips Papers Leathers Glasses Wafers
(thin slices) (purees) (purees) (purees and juices) (purees and juices)
apple ./ ./ ./ ./ ./
./ ./
apricot ./ ./ ./ ./ ./
beet ./ ./ ./ ./ ./
cabbage ./ ./
./
cauliflower ./ ./ ./
./
citrus ./ ./
./
corn ./ ./ ./
flower petals ./ ./
./
leek ./ ./
./
mango ./
mushroom ./
onion ./
passion fruit
pear ./
persimmon ./
pineapple ./
raspberry
spinach ./
squash ./
strawberry ./
from page 3·366
GARLIC NOUGATINE Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Glucose syrup DE 40 lOOg 100% CD Mix together.
100% 0 Spread o nto sil icone bakin g mat in one laye r, 1 mm I y,. in thick.
Iso malt powder 100g 50%
50% ® Cover with second si li co ne bak ing mat.
Unsalted butter, softened 100g
50% 0 Bake in 200 •c I 390 • F oven until go ld en and soft, about 5 min.
Al l-pu rpose flour 50g
4.5% ® Pass rolling pin severa l times over top baking mat, wh il e nougatine is sti ll hot, to make as th in
Garlic, brunoise 50g as possibl e.
a nd blanched
® Wa rm in oven.
Marcona almonds, 50g
brunoise 0 Cut into desired dimensions while sti ll hot.
Salt 4.5g ® Store in ai rtight conta in er, id ea ll y with sili ca ge l packet.
from page 5·29
PLANT FOODS 185
Formulas for Dehydrating Produce
Product Texture Preparation Ingredients Dehydrate
chips very dust over sliced fruit or trehalose or isoma lt, fine (sca ling)* (oc) (oF) (h)
crisp vegetable powder
crisp make syrup and brush isomalt 100% so 120 8
onto slices water
crisp egg white 100% so 120 12
whisk until dissolved, gum arabic 65% so 120 7
rest at room temperature 100%
about 20 min, and brush 50%
mixture onto produce
crisp soak slices for 20 min water 50% 55 130 5
maltodextrin DE19 100%
chewy soak slices for 2 h glycerol 30% 60 140 12
water 40%
sugar or trehalose 100%
papers moist, spread mixture into methylcellulose E4M 1.5% 55 130 6
chewy paper-thin layer (Dow brand)
dry, glucose syrup DE 40 5.0% 55 130 7
flexible low-acyl gellan 0.7%
(Kelcogel F, CP Kelco brand)
dry, N-Zorbit M 20% 55 130 3
brittle (National Starch brand)
leathers tender spread mixture into layer vegetable oil 5% 55 130 8
chewy Ultratex 8 3.0% 60 140 5
1 mm I lf,G in thick (National Starch brand)
xanthan gum 0.3%
chewy agar 0.8% 60 140 5
sorbitol 2.5%
glasses crisp spread mixture into layer g lu cose syrup DE40 2% 60 140 36
10%
1 mm I Y,6 in thick isomalt
icing sugar 18%
brittle simmer mixture for 4 min, Pure Cote B790 12.5% 60 140 15 - 18
wafers crisp and then spread into layer egg white 18% so 130 12
and airy 130 12
1 mm I Y,6 in thick
whip mixture into stiff
foam, and then spread into xanthan gum 1%
0.50%
crunchy layer 3 mm I Vs in thick xanthan gum 55
and airy
160 Bloom gelatin 1.25%
from page 3·367 *(set weight offruit or vegetable to 700%)
GREEN PEA WAFER Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Green pea puree 100%
see page 55 400g CD Blend to fine puree.
(from 750 g 0 Pass through fine sieve.
Egg whites offrozen
Xanthan gum sweet peas) 18.5% ® Whisk together into puree until light and fluffy in texture.
1%
75g 0 Cast puree evenly into nonstick mold in layer 0.5 em I 14 in thick.
4.75g ® Dehydrate at 57 oc I 135 °Funtil crisp, 2 h or longer.
@ Cut into rectangles.
from page 3·371
186 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
CRYSTALLIZED ROSE PETALS Yields30 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Rose petals (organic) SOg 100%
Egg whites SOg 100% CD Separate petals, and reserve.
Gum arab ic 25g 50% 0 Whisk together until gum arab ic is fully disso lved .
Sugar, isomalt, or 100g 200% ® Rest at room temperature until bubbles have dissipated, abo ut 20 min.
trehalose
0 Brush mixture onto each petal to coat complete ly.
® Dredge petals.
® Place on dehydrator tray or parchment paper-lined baking sheet.
0 Dry at 45 oc l 115 °Funtil dry and crisp, for 8-12 h.
from page 3·368
SPINACH PAPER Yields 70 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100g
Spinach puree 100% CD Season puree.
to taste
N-Zorbit, a modified starch (see see page 55 and page 144 20g 20% 0 Whisk into puree.
page 4·34), dries to create a crisp
glassy film . Salt ® Spread mixture thinly on si li cone mat.
N-ZorbitM 0 Dehydrate at 60 oc I 145 °Funtil crisp, 25-45 min.
(National Starch brand)
from page 3·369
MANDARIN LEATHER Yields200 g
The add ition of oil provides INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
tenderness to the leather. Our Mandarins, quartered 200g 100%
favorite texture uses a scaling of3% and seeds re moved CD Combine in pressure cooker.
of the tota l puree weight. You can Water 150g 75% 0 Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for
go up to 4.5% for even more tender- 75 g 37.5%
ness. This recipe can be adapted to Sugar 45 min.
any fruit or vegetable puree.
® Blend fu ll y to puree.
For more on freeze-dried ingredients.
see page 2·444. 0 Strain through fine sieve.
® Cool puree, and measure 300 g.
lime juice 10 g 5% ® Blend together fully w ith puree.
0.5 g
Kosher salt 9g 0.25% 0 Spread seasoned puree in layer 3 mm I Ys in thick on
Grapeseed oil or other 4.5% cel lulose acetate sheet, 15 em by 30 em I 6 in by 12 in.
ne utral oil (3 %)*
® Place sheet on dehydrator tray.
® Dehydrate puree at 35 oc I 95 oFuntil leathery,
about 8 h.
from page 3·369 *(%oftotal mandarin puree weight)
PINEAPPLE GLASS ADAPTED FROM GRANT ACHATZ Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pineapple, juiced 275 g
100% CD Strain through fine sieve.
see page 2·338 7g
2g 2.5% 0 Combine with strained juice.
Fructose 2g 0.7%
Malic acid 0 .25g 0.7% ® Bring to boil over medium heat, and remove imm ediate ly.
Salt 0.1%
Saffron threads 35.Sg 0 Add to warm juice, cover, and steep for 5 min.
13%
Pure-Cote B790 (GPC ® Strain.
brand) ® Blend with juice mixture on high speed for about2 min. Simmer for15 min .
from page 3·370 0 Pour liquid onto center of cellulose acetate sheet.
® Form sheet into U shape, and a ll ow liquid to coat sheet even ly.
® Lay sheet on flat surface, and rest at room temperature until dry, 12-15 h.
@ Peel glass off in single piece.
PLANT FOODS 187
FREEZE-DRIED FRUITS AND VEGETABLES
CD Prepare the ingredients. The table below lists our recommendations.
0 Arrange in a single layer on a tray.
® Freeze-dry for the time indicated. Temperature and pressure settings for prim ary and
secondary drying are given in chapter 10 on The Modernist Kitchen on page 2-450.
Best Bets for Freeze-Drying Plant Foods
Cut Dry
Ingredient Preparation (mm) (in) (h) Typical use See page
apples peeled 2 1/JG 24 whole; grind into a fine powder, and us e to e nhance apple
recipes
bananas p e e le d 3 Vs 48 whole; grind into a fine powder, and add to
Thai spice mix or to mustard base
butternut peeled 2 ).{6 36 grind into a fine powder, and add to fresh butternut squash
squash puree to deepen the flavor and thicke n
carrots peeled and sl iced, 1hz 12 instant ramen 61
then blanched for 30 s
chives, mint, and whole leaves 12 grind into a fine powder for seasoning
other herbs
corn, kernels whole 36 whole; grind into a fine powd e r and us e in Modernist 209
breading, add to corn bread recipes or broths
grapes perforated with needl e whole 48 whole; pickled; add to pastry recipes; infuse into broths 189
lettuce whole leaves 24 caesar salad 5·14
mushrooms })z 12 infuse into stocks and broths; re hydrate to ma ke a puree;
grind into a fine powder for breading
onions cooked until tender 2 1/JG 12 grind into a fine powder, and add to savory pastry 189
piquillo peppers blanched, pee led quartered 36 grind into a fine powder, and add to spice blends 217
raspberries whole
24 whole; grind into a powder, and add to pastry or infuse into
vinegar
strawberries 2 ).{6 24 whole; grind into a fine powder for seasoning a nd breading 33
tomatoes peeled, cored thinly sliced 24 whole; infuse into oils; grind into a fin e powder, and add to 49
sauces and spice blends
from page 3·372
ONION SABLE Yie lds350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Unsa lted butter 500 g 500%
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 200 g 200% CD Simmer over low heat for 2 h to infuse butter with onion fl avo r,
All-purpose flour 112.5 g 112 .5% being careful not to brown onions.
Onion butter, from above 100g 100%
Almond powder 50% 0 Strain butter, and rese rve onions for other us e.
lsomalt so g 50%
Egg yolk, cooked so us vide in 65 oc 1 149 oFbath for so g 25% ® M eas ure 100 g of onion broth for making dough.
7min
Cornstarch 25g 12.5% 0 Mi x to form dough, and rest dough for 20 min at room temp.
Freeze-dried onion powder 8% ® Roll out dough in layer 1 mm I y,. in thick.
see page 189 12.5g
Salt 8g ® Place on nonstick baking sheet.
Heavy cream
Baking powder 0 Bake in 175 oc I 350 oFoven until lightly golden, forll min.
from page 5·263
® Cut into 3 em by 8 em 1 11,4 in by 31,4 in rectangles whi le still warm.
® Cool completely.
@ Reserve in cool, dry place.
4.5g 4.5%
3.3 g 3.3%
l.Sg 1.5%
188 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
SEARED STRAWBERRY Yields100 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Strawberries, halved 60g CD Coat ha lved strawberries with thin dusting of strawberry powder, and then sear in oil over high
lengthwise (two berries) 20%
heat until charred, abo ut 45 s.
Freeze-dried strawberry 12g
powder
see page 188
Grapeseed oil as needed
Oloroso sherry vinegar Sg 8 .5% 0 Season.
Sa lt to taste
from page 5·279
CAESAR SALAD Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Egg yolk powder, freeze- 12 g 24% CD Dry bl e nd powders.
dried
see page 5·250
Acetic acid 7g 14%
14%
Salt 7g 6%
Black peppercorns, 3g 4%
finely ground
40%
An chovy powder, freeze- 2 g (50%)*
dried 80%
100%
N-Zorbit M 20 g 0 Whisk into powder mixture until fully incorporated.
(National Starch bra nd) 40 g 16%
® Toss greens together with dressing.
Extra-virgin o live oil 16%
0 Arrange sa lad on plate.
Romaine lettuce, freeze- 50 g
dried
Basil leaves (small), 8g
microwave-fried
Chives, cut into 1 em I 8g
l-8 in batons and freeze-
dried
Parsley, microwave-fried 4 g 8%
40% ® Garnish salad.
see page l57 32%
24%
Parmesan nuggets 20g *(%ofweight ofolive oil)
see page 206
Salt-cured anchovies, 16g
freeze -dri ed
Brioche, cut into 1 mm I 12 g
y,, in sli ces and dehydrated
from page 3·373
FREEZE-DRIED ONION POWDER Yields40 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sweet onions, thinly 350g 100%
sliced CD Saute in nonsti ck pan over low heat until translucent a nd tender, about15 min.
Neutral oil as needed 28.5%
Water 100g 0 Deglaze as needed to prevent any browning.
® Coolat room temperature.
0 Freeze-dry for12 h.
® Grind into powder.
® Store in cool, dry place.
from page 3-373
PL AN T FOODS 189
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