SOUS VIDE RARE BEEF JUS Yields350 g
Rare beef jus created this way INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
can be used for many purposes. Beef (prefera bly a tough cut) 1 kg 100%
Tougher meats may req uire more Brom e la in powder (optional, 2g 0.2% CD Cut in to 1 em I y, in cubes.
tim e to re lease their juice. NOW brand) 0 Comb in e meat and bromelain (optio na l)
5%
Water 50g ® Cook so us vid e in 53 "CI 128 "Fbath for 4 h.
Salt to taste 0 Strain rendered juices through fin e sieve, and
Sherry vinegar to taste
measure 300 g ofjuice.
from page 2·349
® Comb in e w ith juice.
® Season.
0 Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate. Do not reheat
above 53 "C I 127 "F, or jus will coagulate.
SOUS VIDE BEEF JUICE Yie lds300 g
This process ca n be a ppl ie d to a ll INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
typ es of meats. Using th e resulting 100%
juice, a lth o ugh more costly than Ground lea n beef 1 kg CD Vacuum sea l.
water, is a more fl avorfu l a lte rn ative 0 Cook so us vide in 90 "C I 194 "Fbath for1'/2 h.
t ha n using water to ma ke broths
and sauces. ® Strain juice, and discard meat.
0 Cool juice complete ly.
® Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate until us e.
fro m page 2·349
CENTRIFUGED CAROTENE BUTTER Yields 1.4 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Carrot juice 100%
see page 2·336 2.2 kg CD Brin g 1.4 kg of carrot jui ce to simmer.
(from 3.5 kg of 64% 0 Blend in butter, and simmer for 30 min.
Unsalted butter, cubed carrots)
® Bl e nd in remaining 800 g of carrot juice.
1.4 kg
0 Divid e mixture eq ua ll y (check weight) amo ng centrifuge bottles.
® Centrifuge bottles at 27,500g for 1 h.
® Refrigerate bottles until butterfat has so lidifi ed, about 2 h.
0 Pi erce co ngealed b utterfat on top of each bottle.
® Pour out clarified carrot juice, a nd set as id e for a noth er use.
® Warm bottles in wate r bath, o r mi crowave to melt butter.
@ Decan t clear, melted butter, a nd disca rd accumu lated so lids from bottoms of bottles.
@ Vacuum seal a nd refrige rate until use.
from page 2·365
TOMATO WATER QUANTITY SCALING Yield s 1.2 kg
2 kg 100%
INGREDIENT PROCEDURE
Vacuum filters, wine filters, a nd Tomatoes, peeled, seeded, to taste
e nzyme clarification a re good and chopped CD Process with Champion-styl e juicer.
a lte rn atives to ce ntrifug ing when 0 Measure eve nly among ce ntrifuge bottles.
making tomato water. Salt
from page 2·366 ® Centrifu ge at27,500g for 1 h, a nd decant.
0 Season juice, an d refrigerate until use.
40 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
CENTRIFUGED PEA JUICE Yields 325 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Frozen sweet peas, thawed 700g 100% 0 Blend to fine puree.
Water 70g 10% 0 Divide evenly among centrifuge bottles, ensuring filled bottles are of equal weight.
® Centrifuge bottles at27,500g for1 h.
@ Decant juice, and filter, to obtain about 325 g.
® Skim off and reserve layer of surface fat, about 50 g.
from page 2·367
CENTRIFUGED ROASTED-HAZELNUT OIL Yields150 g
INSPIRED BY NILS NOREN AND DAVE ARNOLD
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Hazelnuts
400g 100% 0 Roast in 160 oc I 325 °Foven for 25 min.
0 Transfer while warm to food processor.
® Blend to form smooth butter. The sugar syrup dramatically
improves the yield of the product
Sugar 40g 10% @ Comb ine, and bring to boil to make syrup by helping to force a cleaner
separation between the layers.
Water 40g 10% ® Remove from heat. It also sweetens the result,
however. Use plain water to boost
® Blend syrup with hazelnut butter. yield without adding sweetness.
0 Divide mixture evenly among centrifuge
bottles.
® Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h.
® Decant oil on top, and refrigerate until use.
from page 2·367
BANANA YOGURT Yields150 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Bananas, unpeeled 500g 500% 0 Cook so us vide in 88 oc I 190 °Fbath for12 min.
0 Peel, puree, and measure 100 g.
Banana puree, from above 100 g 100% Adding 0.2% of Pectinex Smash XXL
Banana juice, from above 40 g 40% ® Centrifuge 400 g of puree at 27,500g for1 h. enzyme to fruit and vegetable
Creme fraiche 30 g 30% @ Decant juice, and reserve 40 g. purees and juices before centri-
Salt to taste ® Puree until smooth . fuging can both speed the
separation process and increase
® Season yogurt. the yield by up to a factor of
two-see page 43.
0 Refrigerate until use.
from page 5·98
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 41
Best Bets for Consomme
Recipe Liquid (sc aling) Flavoring (scaling) Aromatics (sc a l i n g )
bacon consomme white pork stock
lager 100% bacon, thinly sliced 50% sweet onions, thinly sliced 25.0%
8%
bl ack pepper 3.5%
maple syrup 5.0%
brown butter white chicken stock 100% brown butter extract 5% star anise 0 .3%
consomme butternut squash juice 20% see page 4·213 saffron 0.1 %
vodka 5%
chocolate water water 100% dark chocolate (80% cocoa) 24% cocoa nib 10.5%
adapted from Sam Mason cocoa powder 10.0%
consomme madrilene white chicken stock 100% ground chicken, browned 30% coriander seed 0 .5%
tomato water 100% tomato, peeled and seeded 15% star anise 0.1 %
see page 40
kimchi consomme vermouth 5% kimchi, pureed 6% fish sauce to taste
ramen stock 100% lime juice to taste
Parmesan cheese, grated 100%
Parmesan water water 100% cinnamon essential oil to taste lime juice 0.01 %
pea consomme pea juice 100% (optional)
white soy sauce 12% lime juice 2.5 %
rhubarb water rhubarb juice 100% fructose to taste
lobster bodies 30% onion, thinly sliced 4%
shellfish consomme shellfish stock 100% crab knuckles 20% carrot, thinly sliced 4%
shrimp shells 12% tomato paste 1%
from page 2·374
OYSTER CONSOMME Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
95%
Clarified unsalted butter 95 g 20% 0 Saute prepared vegetables together until fragrant and
11 %
Scallions, thinly sliced 20 g scallions are translucent, about 7 min.
Ginger, peeled and thinly 11 g
sliced
Galangal, peeled and 9g 9%
thinly sliced
White vegetable stock 425g 425% 0 Add to scallion mixture, and mix together.
see page 6
100% ® Reduce to 300 g, about 15 min.
Roasted coconut juice 100g
(store-bought) 150% 0 Strain.
Clam juice 150g 110% ® Cool.
see page 36 20%
5% ® Add to strained liquid.
Sake (dry) 110g 2%
50% 0 Steep in refrigerator for 2 h.
lemongrass, thinly sliced 20g
® Strain infused liquid, and season.
Cilantro leaves and stems Sg ® Clarify with vacuum filter.
Makrud (kaffir) lime leaf 2g @ Refrigerate until use.
Oyster juice SOg
lime juice to taste
Salt to taste
from page 5·206
42 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
Method Cook (h) Clarify CLARIFYING A CONSOMME
cook so us vide (OC) (oF) 2 freeze filtration
CD Select a recipe. See the table at left for suggestions.
88 190 0 Combine the liquids, flavoring agents, and aromatics.
cook so us vide 80 176 vacuum filtration Quantities given in the table are proportional to the weight
of the principal liquid. For example, use 8 g of lager for
cook on stove top 90 194 10min centrifugation every 100 g of stock when making bacon consomme.
cook sous vide 80 176 methylcellulose fining ® Cook (if applicable). Recommended cooking methods,
temperatures, and times are indicated in the table. If
infuse so us vide refrigerated 24 agar filtration cooking so us vide, vacuum seal all ingredients together.
freeze filtration 0 Clarify. See Strategies for Filtering Liquids and Clarifying
centrifugation
Consommes on page 2·352 for more details on the clari-
fication methods suggested in the table; alternative
strategies may work as well.
® Season. For season ing options, see Best Bets for Lowering
pH on page 22, Seasoning with Salt and Other Flavor
Enhancers on page 21, and Best Bets for Adding Flavor with
Alcohol on page 24.
cook so us vide 88 190 1h
n/ a
n/ a Buon Vi no wine filter or Buchner
funnel with Whatman 597 paper
fry shells, cool, 88 190
cook so us vide centrifuge
APPLE CIDER CONSOMME Yields 850 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sugar 40g 8%
Water 20g CD Cook over high heat; allow caramel to become dark.
White miso paste lOg
Water 40g 4%
2%
8% 0 Deglaze caramel.
®Wh isk until dissolved.
@Cool.
Apple cider SOOg 100% ®Comb in e with caramel water.
Green apple juice 250g
Cider vinegar lOg 50% ® Vacuum seal.
Malic acid 6g
Salt 6g 2% 0 Refrigerate for4 h to in fuse.
Thyme leaves 6g
Pectinex Smash XXL 1.6g 1.2% ®Stra in.
(Novozymes)
1.2%
1.2%
0.32% ®Wh isk into juice.
(0.2%)* @ Pour into tal l, clear container, and refrigerate for 24 h to clarify.
@ Decant clarified liquid without disturbing solids settled at bottom.
@Check seasoning.
@Serve with grilled mackerel or raw foie gras dressed in walnut oil.
from page 2·377 *(%oftotal combined weightafapple cider, green applejuice, and cider vinegar)
During the clarification process, the enzyme will force solids to the bottom of the
container. See page 2-352 for more clarification methods.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 43
SPRING GARLIC CONSOMME Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
40%
Carrots, thinly sliced BOg 40% CD Saute together until onions are translucent.
12.5%
White onions, thinly sliced BOg 175% 0 Combine with carrots and onions.
100%
Unsalted butter 25 g 0.1% ® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure ofl bar / 15 psi forl h.
Duck meat, ground 350g 0 Strain through fine sieve.
Water 200g
Black peppercorns 0.2g
Green garlic spears 200g 100% ® Centrifuge at 27,500g forl h.
® Strain, measure 100 g of consomme, and reserve.
0 Blanch for 3 min.
® Puree.
® Centrifuge at 27,500g forl h.
@ Measure 20 g of resulting clear juice, and whisk into consomme.
Lime juice to taste @ Season a nd serve, or vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Salt to taste
from page 5·B6
BAGNA CAUDA CONSOMME Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
52 %
Garlic cloves, green BOg CD Saute ga rlic in o il until go ld en, and reserve.
52 %
removed and thinly sliced 4B% 0 Saute onions in butter and oil until translucent.
32%
Grapeseed oil BOg 16%
100%
Sweet onions, sliced 75g
100%
Unsalted butter 50 g 32%
17.5%
Olive oil 25g
16%
Clam juice 155 g 1.3% ® Add reserved garlic and remaining ingredients to onions, and simmer for 20 min.
see page 36 0.6% @ Cool.
® Process in centrifuge at 27,500g forl h, or use alternative clarification method.
Water 155 g ® Refrigerate until use. Serve hot or cold.
White wine (dry) 50g
Garlicconfit 27g
see page 176
Anchovy, chopped 25g
Chives, minced 2g
Thyme, minced lg
from page 5·230
PISTACHIO CONSOMME YieldsBog
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE The rema inin g nut so lid s in the
Raw pistachios, shelled lOOg 100% centrifu ge bottles are not used
Sugar 15g 15% CD Combine. for anyth ing in this recipe or these
Grapeseed oil lOg 10% 0 Roast in 190 oc I 375 °Foven until very dark and sugar volumes, but they're a delicious
Water 300g 100% snack for the c hef.
Pistachio oil 20g 20% has caramelized, about 20 min.
Salt to taste ® Puree with roasted pistachios until smooth .
from page 2-376
0 Vacuum seal.
® Refrigerate for12 h.
® Centrifuge at 27,500g forl h.
0 Decant clear liquid through fine sieve, and discard
remaining so lid s.
® Season.
® Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate until needed.
44 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
POT-AU-FEU CONSOMME Yields200 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Oxtail 300g 40% CD Cut through center of bone and joints to release marrow.
Ground beefshank 750 g 100% 0 Coat oxtai l and ground beef shank with o il.
Neutral oil 75 g 10% ® Roast in 190 ' CI 375 ' Foven, stirring often to ensure even browning, until go ld en brown,
Sweet onions, cut in half 280 g 37.3% about15 min.
26.6%
Turnips, peeled and thinly 200 g 0 Prepare vegetables as noted.
sliced 22.6%
13.3% ® Sear onions, cut side down, until dark brown.
Leeks, thinly sliced 170g ® Sweat vegetables and garli c in suet until tender.
9.3%
Celery root, peeled and 100g 6.6% 0 Combine with roasted meats and vegetables.
thinly sliced 106.6% ® Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of1 bar I 15 psi for 2 h.
46.6%
Garlic head, halved 70g ® Strain, discarding so lid s.
24% @) Clari fy liquid with preferred method.
Rendered beefsuet 50g @ Reduce to 200 g.
0.15%
White beefstock 800g 0.13% @ Add to consomme.
0.07% @ Infuse at room temperature to desired flavor, a bout 5- 7 min.
see page 6
@ Season.
Carrot juice 350g
(from about
550 g carrots)
Parsnip juice 180g
(from about
650 g parsnips)
Black peppercorns l.lg
Cloves, whole 1g
Allspice berries 0.55g
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
from page 5·52
TH E MOD ERNIS T KITC HEN 45
OXTAIL CONSOMME INSPIRED BY DAVID BOULEY Yields 2.5 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Spanish onions, peeled and halved 25%
500g CD Sear cut side down until light golden, about 8 min.
(two large
onions) @ Cool.
Water 50g 2.5% ® Vacuum seal with seared onions.
0 Cook so us vide in 85 oc I 185 °F bath for 7 h.
® Transfer mixture from bag to bowl, and cool.
® Strain, discarding onion solids.
(!) Measure 250 g of onion jus, and reserve.
Oxtail, jointed 1.5 kg 75% ® Brown oxtail over high heat on all sides until golden, about15 min.
Neutral oil 30g 1.5%
Brown beef stock 2 kg 100% ® Combine with browned oxtail in pressure cooker.
see pagelO
Onion jus, from above 250g 12.5% @ Pressure-cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar I 15 psi for 2 h.
Gin 250g 12.5%
Veal marrow 250g 12.5% @ Strain, discarding solids.
@ Measure 2 kg of oxtail broth.
Button mushrooms, thinly sliced 150g 7.5%
Carrots, peeled and thinly sliced lOOg 5%
Celery stalk, peeled and thinly sliced 30g 1.5%
Oxtail broth, from above 2 kg 100% @ Mix 200 g of broth with super methylcellulose.
Ground beef 300g 15% @ Whisk into ground beef to make paste.
Super methylcellulose SGA 150 2g 0.1% @ Mix paste into remaining oxtail broth for conso mme .
(Dow brand)
@ Simmer consomme on low until clarified, about 45 min .
@ Strain.
Bay leaf extract to taste @ Season.
see page 27
to taste For photos of the steps involving methyl-
Lovage leaves, fine julienne to taste cellulose, see page 2·359.
Salt
Star anise extract to taste
see page 27
from page 2·376
RED COLESLAW Yields300 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
267%
Green apple juice, 400g CD Combine.
clarified 267% 0 Vacuum concentrate, using vacuum reduction
Red cabbage juice, 400g
clarified equipment, to 150 g, about 2 h.
Red wine vinegar 400g
30g 267% ® Season juice reduction.
Honey 0.4g 7.5%
Black peppercorns, 0 .1%
finely crushed to taste
150g 100% 0 Mix with juice reduction, and serve imme diately.
Salt lOg 6.5%
Red cabbage, julienne
Pickled mustard seeds
see page 3-348
from page 5·72
46 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
HOW TO DISTILL WITH A ROTAVAP
0 Place the zest-vodka mixture in the evaporation flask of a rotary Boiling Point vs Vacuum Pressure
evaporator. To set your rotary evaporator, choose a temperature
appropriate for the boiling point of the solvent or
0 Set the target vacuum to 50 mbar I 38 torr and the bath temperature to material you want to distill, and then adjust vacuum
35 ' C I 95 ' F. Set the condenser chilling water temperature to 1 ' C I 34 ' F pressure accordingly.
if you are using a helical condenser. If you are using a cold-trap-style Boiling point Water Ethanol
condenser, fill it with ice water, and prepare a salt brine (see page 2·260).
You may have to use a higher bath temperature if the rate of d istillation is (OC) nl (mbar) (torr) (mbar) (torr)
too slow.
20 68 23 17 58 44
® Distill. The time required depends the size of the batch and many other
factors. Check the condensation coil periodically; if the condensation 30 86 42 32 102 77
line rises more than three-quarters of the way up the coil, or if you can
smell what is being distilled, too many volatiles are escaping. There are 40 104 72 54 167 125
several ways to correct this problem. You can decrease the condenser 120 90 289 217
chilling water temperature, increase the flow, or do both. Or you so 122
can decrease the bath temperature, but in that case, you must also
decrease the vacuum . Release the vacuum when distillation is 60 140 194 145 463 347
complete.
Because we start this recipe with One can also extract citrus essen-
0 Separate the oil from the solvent. Pipette the thin layer of oil floating vodka and end up diluting the tial oil mechanically, instead of
result to 40% (80 proof) alcohol, distilling it. Commercially, this is
on top of the receiving flask into a separatory funnel. Allow the oil to no concentration ofalcohol occurs. done by pressing; the result is
separate overnight, or use a centrifuge (see page 2·360) to separate the We are simply using alcohol as a called a pressed essential oil.
components more quickly. solvent for the citrus essential oils. You can make your own by homog-
enizing citrus zest and alcohol as
® Drain any solvent from the funnel, and then drain the essential oils into a in step 1 (preferably by treating the
separate vessel. mixture in an ultrasonic bath).
Then use a centrifuge to separate
® Keep the essential oil refrigerated in an airtight container. the oil. It will have a different
aromatic quality than the oil
produced by distillation.
BUDDHNSHANDVODKA Yields 1.5 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Vodka 1.5 kg 100%
Buddha's hand citron zest 400 g 27% 0 Blend together for 3 min . Optionally, infuse in so us vide bag or jar placed in an ultrasonic
Distilled water as needed bath for 1 h (see page 2·302).
from page 2·389
0 Place liquid in rotary vacuum distiller for 3 h with vacuum pressure at 50 mbar I 38 torr and
bath temperature at 35 ' CI 95 ' F. Set condenser chilling water to 1 oc I 34 °F.
® Distill .
0 Dilute distillate to 40% alcohol. Use hydrometer to measure ethanol concentration.
VACUUM-CONCENTRATED APPLE AND CABBAGE JUICE Yields180 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Green apple juice, centrifuged 400g 267%
Red cabbage juice, centrifuged 400g 267% @ Combine.
Red wine vinegar 400g 267%
0 Set bath temperature to 50 °CI 122 ' F, condenserchillingwaterto 5 oc l 41 ' Fand
juice concentrate, from above 150g 100% target pressure to 50 mbar I 38 torr.
Honey 30g 7.5%
Black peppercorns, finely crushed 0.4g 0.27% ® Distill.
Salt to taste
from page 2·389 0 Reserve concentrated source liquid.
® Season.
Because we discard the solvent, the concentra-
tion can be done by using a vacuum evaporator
instead ofa rotary evaporator.
THE MODERNI ST KITCHEN 47
MOCK TURTLE SOUP ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields 4 kg (about 90 servings)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Brown beefstock 1 kg 200%
see page 10 24% CD Gently warm stock until no lon ge r ge ll ed but still coo l.
Cherry tomatoes, quartered 120g 58% 0 Add c herry tomatoes, a nd infus e at ro o m tempe rature fo r 20 min. Strain, and reserve
290g 32%
Mushroom jus 26% infu sed stock.
see page37 165g
Fino sherry 133 g 100% ® Co mbin e, a nd mi x with infuse d sto ck. Vacuum sea l, and freeze.
White soy sauce 12%
0 When froze n, remove from bag, and place on perforated tray lin e d with double layer
Freeze-concentrated stock, 500g
from above 60g of cheesecloth.
Gelatin, 160 Bloom ® Refrigerate, w hil e freeze-fi ltering for 72 h (see page 2·370).
Gold leaf sheets as needed ® Vacuum seal filtered stock, and freeze.
0 Transfer froze n stock to food processor; pulse until coarse ly crus hed.
® Drain crushed, frozen stock over fine sieve lin ed w ith double layer of cheesecloth .
® Co ll ect thawed, concentrated stock, and discard remaining ice.
® Transfer concentrated stock to Genevac Rocket bottles, and reduce by ha lf at 8 mbar I
6 to rr, heating temperature of 50 "CI 122 "F, and co nd enser at 1 "CI 34 "F.
@ Reserve 500 g of reduced stock.
@ Comb in e, and vacuum sea l.
@ Cook in 60 "C I 140 "Fbath until a ll ge latin dissolves, about 5 min.
@ Transfer to depositing fu nn el, a nd dispense 6 g in to each pocketwatch sili cone mold.
@ Refrigerate, and a ll ow to set comp lete ly, about 4 h.
@ Remove ge ll ed stock from molds, and place flat side down on corner of gold leaf sheet.
Use tweezers to ge ntly fold go ld leaf over top of each gell ed stock portion; use fine
brush to tuck gold leaf under bottom edges.
@ Refrigerate until needed.
@ To serve, place eac h stock portion in bottom of teacup; pour 40 g of hot water over
stock. Stir until ge ll ed stock dissolves.
from page 2·394
INDIES SPICE BLEND ADAPTED FROM OLIVIER ROELLINGER Yields20 g
Most Indi an recipes start w ith INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
toasting sp ices in a dry frying pan Coriander seeds 2.1 g 28%
to develop the flavor. A better way Black peppercorns 1. 7 g 22.7% CD Comb in e and toast in fryi ng pan until fragrant .
to toast spices is to put them in a Caraway seeds 1.5g 20% 0 Remove from heat, and cool.
sha ll ow pan in a comb i oven or Cinnamon stick, grated 1g 13.3%
Mace 1g 13.3% ® Combine in coffee grind er w it h toasted
convection oven at 170 "C I 338 "F Sichuan peppercorns 1g 13.3% sp ice blend.
Star anise 0.4g 5.3%
until fragrant. This avoids sco rch in g Clove 0.2g 2.7% 0 Grind to fine powder.
th e spi ces. Turmeric powder 7.5g 100%
Orange peel, grated 2.5g 33.3% ® Store in airtight container until needed.
To make the van ill a seed-pod Vanilla seeds and pulp l.Sg 20%
scrap ings, sp lit a van ill a bean Cayenne pepper 0.5g 6.7%
lengthwise w ith a kn ife then from page 2-403
scrape the seeds and the residue
surround ing them from the QUATRE EPICES Yields420 g
seed pod.
INGREDIENT PROCEDURE
Black peppercorns QUANTITY SCALING
Cinnamon, grou nd 200g 100% CD Toast sp ices in dry ski ll et until fragrant.
Nutmeg 100 g 50% 0 Comb in e in coffee grind er and grin d to
Cloves 80g 40%
from page 2·403 40g 20% fine powder.
® Store in a irtight container until needed.
48 VOLUME 6 ·K ITCHE N MA NU AL
CHILl TOMATO SPICE BLEND Yields 70 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Freeze-dried tomatoes 30g CD Grind together to fine powder.
see page 188 83% 0 Store in airtight conta in er until needed.
Freeze-dried piquillo pepper 25 g 16.7%
see page 188 16.7%
6 .7%
Coriander seeds, toasted and ground 5g 3.3%
3.3%
Sweet paprika powder 5g 2%
1.7%
Controne hot pepper, finely ground 2g
Hot-smoked paprika powder 1g
Saffron threads 1g
Fennel seeds, toasted and ground 0.6g
Ajowan seeds, toasted and ground 0.5g
from page 2-403
MEMPHIS RUB Yields 32.5 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE For our friends who think barbecu-
100% ing is throwing a piece of meat on a
Sweet Hungarian paprika 12 .5g 60% CD Grind finely, and sieve. flaming-hot grill: it's not. That's grill-
24% ing. Barbecuing is done low a nd
Salt 7.5g 20% slow, with lots of smoke (see
Smoking, page 2·132). In some
Garlic powder 3g places, you'd be laughed out of
town or worse for suggesting
Chili powder 2.5 g otherwise.
(McCormick brand)
Yields 60 g
Onion powder 2.5 g 20%
20% Dry rubs are usually put on 12 hours
Sweet paprika 2.5 g 16% before cooking. However, we also
use them as a spice mix added at
Black peppercorns 2g the end.
from page 5·68
KANSAS RUB QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
50g 100%
INGREDIENT 4g 8% CD Grind finely, and sieve.
Brown sugar 3.5 g 7%
Salt 2.5 g 5%
Black pepper, ground
Chili powder 2.5 g 5%
(McCormick brand) 1.5g 3%
Sweet paprika 1g 2%
Garlic powder 1g 2%
Onion powder
Red chili, minced
from page 5·68
THE MODERNIST KITCHE N 49
CHAAT MASALA Yields 70 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
Coriander seeds 19g 76 % CD Combine, and roast in 175 •c / 350 •Foven until
Cumin seeds 15g 60%
Ajowan 3g 12% golden, about 7 min.
Black peppercorns 3g 12%
Dried chilies 1g 4% 0 Combine roasted spice mix with remaining
Salt 25g 100%
Dried green mango 8g 32% ingredients.
powder (amchoor) ® Grind mixture to powder.
Dry pomegranate seeds 4g 16% @) Pass through fine sieve, and vacuum seal and
(anardana)
refrigerate until use .
from page 5·282
SWEET SPICE BLEND Yields25g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Star anise, toasted lOg CD Mix together.
and ground 40% 0 Vacuum seal and reserve until use .
40%
Dried ginger, ground 4g
Vanilla bean seeds and 4g
pulp
Black pepper, ground 3g 30%
30%
Cinnamon, toasted 3g
and ground
Nutmeg, ground 1.5 g 15%
from page 5·212
PASSION FRUIT GRAN ITA Yieldsl80 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Passion fruit juice 150 g 100%
Sugar 20g 13.5% CD Combine.
lime juice lOg 6.5% 0 Transfer to Pacojet beaker, and freeze. Alternatively,
Salt 1.5g 1%
freeze mixture in container, and break it up with fork
into flakes periodically as it freezes. Reserve frozen.
® Pacotize once to serve.
from page 5·177
50 VOlUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
FISH SPICE MIX Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Hazelnuts, peeled, 24g CD Prepare ingredients as noted. This spice mixture is incredibly
roasted, and coarsely 92% 0 Combine in food processor or mortar. versatile. We highly recommend it
ground 25% 0 Grind to coarse powder. for sole, turbot, or any similar fish
22% 0 Vacuum seal to preserve aroma. simply panfried in butter.
Sesame seeds, toasted 22g
® Refrigerate until use.
Coriander seeds, toasted 6g
White poppy seeds, 5g
toasted
Dried ginger, ground 2g 8.5%
6.5%
Salt 1.6g 0.5%
Dried chamomile, ground 1.2 g
from page 5·154
PAIN D'EPICES POWDER Yields300 g
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
3.3% CD Toast spices together in 170 oc I 340 of oven.
Cinnamon stick 8g 1.3% 0 Grind spices to fine powder.
1%
Star anise 3.2g 0.8% 0 Blend into toasted spice powder.
0.8%
Cloves 2.5g 100%
Aniseeds 2g
Coriander seeds 2g
Spray-dried honey 240g
powder (store-bought)
Salt 12g 5%
1.3%
Ginger powder 3g 1.3%
0 .6%
Nutmeg, grated 3g 0.5%
Mace blade 1.5 g
Orange zest, grated 1.2 g
from page 5·22
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 51
CITRUS SPICE ADAPTED FROM HESTON BLUMENTHAL Yields30 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Orange zest, finely grated
11 g 100% CD Combine.
Lemon zest, finely grated (from two oranges) 0 Spread on si licone baking mat.
Lime zest, finely grated 9g B2% ® Dehydrate at SO oc I 120 oFuntil completely dried, abo ut 35 min .
(from two le mons)
Licorice root, finely ground @) Combine with dried zest and grind to fine powder.
Vanilla seeds and pulp 3g 27% ® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
Coffee beans, roasted and (from two lim es)
finely ground
Coriander seeds, deeply toasted 3g 27%
and finely ground
Mint leaves, freeze-dried l.Sg 13.6%
see page 188
from page 2-404 1g 9%
1g 9%
1g 9%
(20 leaves)
LICORICE POWDER ADAPTED FROM MICHEL BRAS Yields280 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Black olives, pitted 400g 250%
CD Arrange on nonstick baking sheet in one even laye r.
0 Dehydrate in BO oc I 175 °Foven for 8-12 h until co mpl etely dried.
® Measure 160 g of dried olives.
Dried black olives, from above 160g 100% @) Grind together to fine powder (N-Zorbit M will prevent powder from turning
20g 12.5% into paste), and reserve.
N-ZorbitM
(National Starch brand)
Almond powder (meal) 80g 50% ® Mix together, an d spread on nonstick ba king sheet.
Demerara sugar lOg 6.25%
® Bake in 135 oc I 275 °Foven until light golden, about 35 min, and cool.
0 Blend into olive powder.
Licorice root, finely ground 5g 3.1% ® Stir into powder.
Salt 5g 3.1%
Tonka beans, finely ground 1g 0.625%
from page 2·405
RAS EL HANOUT Yields155 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Ginger powder 40g 75% CD Dry-bl end together.
Turmeric powder 30g 62.5% 0 Vacuum sea l, and refrigerate until us e.
37.5%
Black peppercorns, finely ground 2Sg
15g 30%
Coriander seeds, finely ground,
toasted 12g 13.75%
13.75%
Grains of paradise, finely ground, 13.5%
toasted 12 .5%
10%
Cinnamon stick, finely ground 5.5g 9%
Star anise, finely ground, toasted 5.Sg 5%
5%
Dried chili, finely ground 5.4g
Dried rosebuds, finely ground Sg
Allspice, finely ground 4g
Cubeb pepper, finely ground, toasted 3.6g
Clove, finely ground 2g
Nutmeg, finely ground 2g
from page 2-405
52 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
EXOTIC SPICE MIXTURE INSPIRED BY OLIVIER ROELLINGER Yi e lds 90 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sesame seeds SOg 100% 0 Combine, and toast in frying pan until go ld en.
Cumin seeds 8.2g 16 .4%
Sumac 18 g 36% 0 Cool comp lete ly, and rese rve.
Ajowan seeds 6.5g 13%
Dried oregano 2.9 g 5.8% ® Grind togethe r in spice grind e r.
Cardamom seeds 2g 4% @ Add sesa me and cumin blend, a nd grind to fine powder.
Ground cinnamon 2g 4% ® Store in a irti ght conta in er until needed.
Nutmeg, freshly ground l.Sg 3%
from page 2-405
PACOJET PEA SOUP Yields 660 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100% 0 Combine and transfer to Pacojet beaker.
Green peas, frozen 300 g 67% This soup is best served when at
50% 0 Freeze to at least -20 oc I -4 °F.
Heavy cream 200g or below 60 °C I 140 °F, so that it
® Pacot ize once.
Pea juice 150g @ Optionally, freeze and Pacot ize once more for reta ins its sweetness. At higher
(from 500 g of temperatures, the peas will taste
see page 41 peas) smoother texture. cooked and less sweet.
(o r white vegetable stock, page 6) ® Transfer soup to pot, and warm until just melted
Salt 6g 2% and velvety.
Mint leaves, fine julie nn e 3g 1% ® Season.
from page 2-410
MOZZARELLA POWDER Yields450 g
Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Buffalo mozzare ll a 250g 100%
Buffalo mozzare lla brin e 100 g 40% 0 Cut into 2.5 em I 1 in cubes.
Glucose syrup DE 40 100 g 40% 0 Dissol ve glu cose into whey.
® Blend whey mixture with mozza re ll a cub es until smooth.
@ Tra nsfe r mixture to Pacoj et beaker and freeze to at least -20 oc I -4 °F.
® Pacotize once without venting.
® Serve powder imm ed iate ly, or store frozen for up to 1 h.
from page 2-411
FROZEN CHEDDAR-CHEESE POWDER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water, cold 250g 100%
Agar 2g 0.8% 0 Combine.
Sodium citrate 8g 3.2% 0 Bring to boil, and hold for 1 min to fully hydrate.
Cheddar cheese, finely grated 150 g 60% ® Blend over ice-water bath to create fluid ge l.
Salt 2.5 g 1%
@ Disperse into fluid ge l.
® Bring mixture to simmer.
® In corporate slowly into simmering mixture until fu ll y melted.
0 Transfer mixture to Pacojet beaker, and freeze to -30 oc I -22 °F.
® Pacotize once, a nd refreeze to -60 oc I -76 °F.
® Pacotize agai n once more to make very fine powder.
@ Serve immed iate ly or store frozen for up to 1 h.
from page 2-411
THE MODERNIST KITC HEN 53
HOW TO Mill A CREAMY NUT BUTTER
0 Place the nuts in the feed funnel of the mill. Any tree nuts or peanuts will work.
0 Run nuts through the machine. Repeat as many times as necessary to achieve the desired texture, tightening the
collar for each success ive pass. In using our machine, we have found that four passes yields a silky-smooth butter.
FROZEN CREME-FRAJCHE AND PINE-NUT CREAM Yieldsl kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 500g 500%
Glucose syrup DE 40 135 g 135% 0 Blend together.
Creme fraiche lOOg 100% 0 Place in Pacojet beaker, and freeze to at least -20 oc I -4 °F.
Pine-nut butter lOOg 100% 0 Pacotize once.
0 Serve frozen cream immediately, or freeze.
see above 79 g 79%
60g 60%
Skim milk powder lOg 10%
lsomalt lOg 10%
Salt 2g 2%
Sugar
Guargum
from page 2·411
SOUR RHUBARB SORBET Yields 780 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Rhubarb, thinly sliced 500g 26% 0 Vacuum seal.
6% 0 Cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 °Fbath for 2 h.
Glucose syrup DE 40 130g 40% 0 Pass through fine sieve.
0 Blend with cooked rhubarb.
Sugar 30 g 1.8%
® Adjust acidity to taste.
Rhubarb juice 200g 0.6% ® Freeze in Pacojet container. Alternatively, churn in ice cream machine, and store in freezer.
(from 350 g
rhubarb) 0 To serve, Pacotize or temper churned sorbet.
White balsamic vinegar 9g
(or other semisweet white
vinegar)
Malic acid 3g
from page 5·279
ROMESCO SAUCE QUANTITY SCALING Yields 950 g
150g 60% PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT 20g 8%
Water 0 Soak peppers at room temperature for 2 h.
Smoked Hungarian paprika 250 g 100% 0 Remove peppers from water, and blend into paste.
peppers, dried 250g 100% 0 Press through fine sieve.
150g 60% 0 Combine with paste.
Olive oil 150g 60%
Pine nuts, toasted ® Process mixture 3- 4 times through colloid mill, using increasingly fine settings until
Hazelnuts, peeled and toasted 90g 36% desired texture is achieved.
Piquillo peppers (store-bought 19.5g 7.8%
in jar, seeded) 9.5g 3.8% ® Season.
Red wine vinegar 8g 3.2%
Garlic cloves, blanched
Paprika to taste
Pomegranate molasses
(store-bought)
Salt
from page 2-419
5 4 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAl
MAKING A SMOOTH PUREE
0 Prepare the vegetables by cutting into evenly shaped, small pieces, as ® Combine vegetable with th e liquid or seasoning indicated in th e table.
Set the weight of the produce to 100%. For exampl e, use 12 g of butter for
indicated in th e tabl e below. every 100 g of mushrooms.
0 Cook as indicated . Suggested methods, temperatures, and times are 0 Puree by using the tool indicated, and pass through a fine sieve.
listed in the table. Optionall y, process with rotor-stator homogenizer, ultra high pressure
homogenizer, or ultrasonic homogenizer for finer texture. For large
quantities, a colloid mill is an ideal tool.
Best Bets for Vegetable and Fruit Purees
Ingredient Prep Method Cook (m in) Liquid (scaling)* Tool See page
apple (oC) (of) 2h h 5·17
peeled, quartered so us vide 90 194 commercial 33
blender
next page
asparagus thinly sliced saute high heat 10 vegetab le stock 25% commercial 150
unsalted butter 15% blender 5·281
5·101
artichoke hearts, thinly sl iced so us vide 80 176 45 vegetable stock 50% commercial 57
blender
olive oi l 5% 57
next
beet peeled, thinly sous vide 80 176 1 h cooked beet 50% commercial
sliced juice blender 53
144, 148, 151
unsalted butter 15%
5·60
broccoli stems, peeled saute medium heat 12 neutral oil 3% commercial
and sliced blender
carrot florets, sliced boil
cauliflower peeled, sa ute high heat 4 hazelnut oil 10%
thinly sliced
saute medium-low heat 30 carrot juice 50% commercial
florets, sli ced blender
carotene butter 15%
medium-low heat 1h h vegetable stock 50% commercial
unsalted butter 15% blender
corn kernels so us vide 85 185 1 h corn juice 25% commercial
blender
90 194 lY2 h unsalted butter 15%
celery root peeled, so us vide skim milk 34% commercial
thin ly sliced saute blender
jerusalem unsalted butter 15%
artichoke thinly sliced
medium 45 whole milk 25 % commercial
heat blender
unsalted butter 15%
mushroom thin ly sliced saute medium- 30 water 50% commercia l
high heat 35 blender
oven roast 175 345 unsalted butter 12%
onion peeled so us vide whole milk 12 .5% commercial
sous vide blender
parsley leaves freeze and 90 194 7 water to cover Pacojet
parsnip peeled, thaw 90 194 45
thinly sliced sous vid e unsalted butter 25% commercial
pea who le blender
saute
n/ a pea juice 50% Pacojet
blanch
so us vide heavy cream 10%
potato peeled, 100 212 35 unsalted butter 50% food mill or ricer
thinly sliced
heavy cream 30%
shallot peeled, medium heat 30 unsalted butter 25% commercia l
thinly sliced blender
spinach leaves
winter peeled, 90 194 7 water 15% Pacojet
squash thinly sliced 90 194 45
from page 2-425 commercia l
blender
*(set weight ofprepared vegetable to 700%)
THE MODE RNI ST KI TC HE N 55
BROCCOLI AND HAZELNUT-OIL PUREE INSPIRED BY JACQUES MAXIMIN Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Broccoli florets 300g 100%
0 Blanch florets in 2% saline water for 3 min.
Broccoli stalks, 220g 73% 0 Rinse in ice wate r.
peeled and sliced
Neutral oil ® Saute stalks unti l golden and tender, about 4 min. Cool.
Roasted hazelnut oil
(Walnut oil or other nut lOg 3% @ Combine with florets and stalks.
oils can also be used for 30 g 10% ® Puree in blender on high power until smooth.
this recipe) ® Transfer puree to beaker.
to taste
Salt 0 Process with rotor-stator homogeni zer at 4,000 rpm until extremely silky, about 3 min.
from page 2-426 ® Season and drizzle with more hazelnut oil if desired.
® Warm through or refrigerate until use.
CREAMED WATERCRESS Yields 700 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
450 g 150%
Watercress, 0 Cook so us vid e in 90 oc 1 194 °Fbath for 7 min.
large branch es removed 42% 0 Shock in ice water, and then remove from bag.
2.3%
Water 125g (7.2%)* ® Puree.
0.7% @ Pass through fine sieve.
Low-acy l gellan (Kelcogel 7g (0.35%)* ® Measure 30 0 g of puree for rec ipe, and reserve.
F, CP Kelco brand) 100% ® Dry-blend gellan and sodium citrate, and disperse in water.
Sodium citrate 2g 20% 0 Vacuum seal solution.
17% ® Hydrate so us vide in 85 oc I 185 oFbath for 5 min.
Watercress puree, from 300 g
above ® Refrigerate gel stock until set.
@ Comb in e with gel stock.
@ Puree.
Glucose syrup DE 40 60g
White onion, thinly sli ced 51 g
and blanched
Water 21 g 7%
17% @ Combine with puree.
Olive oil 51 g 9% @ Pour into Pacojet b ea ker.
Maltod extrin DE 19 27g 8% @ Freeze to at least - 20 oc I - 4 °F.
Egg white 24g 7% @ To serve, Pacotize once and serve cold as garnish for roast beef, or warm and use as sauce for
roasted fish.
Garlic, thinly sliced and 20g
blanched once 5%
3%
Capers 15g
*(%oftotal combined weight ofthe puree and subsequent ingredients)
Salt 9g
from page 2-426
56 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
PISTACHIO PUREE ADAPTED FROM ALEX STUPAK Yields445 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sicilian pistachios, she ll ed 200 g 100% CD Soak pistachios in waterfo r1 2 h, refrigerate d.
Water 125 g 62.5%
37.5%
Pistachio oil 75 g 20% 0 Puree together pistachios and soak ing water, oil, A colloid mill works superbly for
2% making pi stac hi o puree, as shown
Glucose syrup DE40 40g and glucose. on page 54. A blender or Pacojet
1.25% also works.
Salt 4g (0.6%)* ® Pass through fine sieve.
N-Zorbit M (National 2.5 g @) Season with sa lt.
Starch brand)
0 Whisk into puree to thi cken .
fro m page 2-427
® Vacuum seal and refrigerate until use.
*(%oftotal combined weight offirstfouringredients)
BLACK TRUFFLE CONCENTRATE Yields325g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Black winter truffles, scrubbe d lOOg 100% CD Comb in e and p uree in blender or with rotor- Th is puree is quite ex pe nsive
thoroughly and thinly sliced an d a small a moun t can go a lon g
stator homoge ni zer. way. Use it sparin gly as a seaso ning
Brown chicke n jus 25g 25% for sauces and dressings. To make
see page34 0 Vacuum seal puree. a more d ilu ted puree that can be
® Cook so us vid e in 80 •c I 176 "Fbath for1 h. served as a garn ish, use more
Red wine (dry) 15g 15% li q uid, and then thicken with a fluid
@) Transfer sea led puree to ultrasonic bath ge l (see page 4 ·176) or blend into a
Po rtobe llo mushroom gills lOg 10% if ava il ab le (see page 2·415), and process for mushroom puree (see page 5·216).
30 min . If bath is un avai lab le, proceed w ith
Tawny port (med ium dry) lOg 10% re ma ining steps. European summer and autumn
truffles, Oregon truffles, and
0 Refrigerate sea led p uree for late r use, or Austral ian truffles are all accept-
ab le substitutes.
prepare to serve.
Black truffle oil (store-bought) 7 g 3.5%
® To serve, warm sealed puree in 80 •c I 176 "F
bath for10 min.
0 Remove from bag, a nd blend until co mpl ete ly
smooth.
® Season, and serve imm ed iately.
Champagne vin egar to taste
Salt to taste
from page 2-427
CELERY ROOT MOUSSELINE YieldsSOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Sugar 30g 10%
CD Heat to 190 •c I 375 "Fto make carame l.
Ce le ry roots, pee led and 300g 100% 0 Coo l comp lete ly.
thinly sli ced
33% ® Break into sma ll pieces.
Skim milk 100g 15% @) Vacuum seal w ith carame l.
Unsa lte d butte r 45g
10% 0 Cook so us vid e in 90 •c I 195 •Fbath for1Y2 h.
Roasted peanut oil 30g
Salt to taste ® Com bin e, and bring to simmer.
from page 2-427
0 Add celery roots, and puree to fine cons istency.
® Pass through fin e sieve.
® Season puree.
@ Serve or cool and refrigerate until use.
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 57
FREEZE-DRYING temperature of the food is within 1 oc I 2 °Fof the shelf temperature.
CD Prepare the ingredients. Cut the food into bite-size pieces or thin slices Because of the physics of freeze-drying, the core temperature of the food
may fall at first. This is not unusual. But if the core temperature of the
to greatly reduce drying times. Arrange the food in a single layer on food fai ls to increase within a few hours, increase the shelf temperature
conductive trays that fit in your dryer. Aerate liquids and purees before
freezing or grind them into sma ll pieces after freezing. by 5 oc I 10 °Fto supp ly more energy.
0 Prefreeze the food to be low the critical temperature. See the table ® In crease the she lf temperature to 5 °CI 40 °F. When the core
Prefreezing Temperatures for Freeze-Dried Foods on the next page for temperature of the food exceeds 0 oc I 32 °F, preliminary drying
suggested temperatures. Faster freezing will yield better texture but will
slow sub limati on . Some foods have criti ca l temperatures so low that is comp lete.
liquid nitrogen or a laboratory freezer is needed to reach them.
® Begin secondary drying. Set the condenser to the co ld est temperature
® Set the freeze dryer temperatures. Set the shelf temperature to 20 oc I ava il able and increase the shelf temperature to the temperature
36 °Fabove the critica l temperature of the prefrozen food. Set the recommended in the table on the next page, or 20-60 oc I 70-140 °F
condenser to 20 oc I 36 oF below the critica l temperature. (as warm as the food will tolerate without damage). When the core
0 Freeze-dry the food. Insert a fine temperature probe into the core of temperature of the food reaches the shelf temperature, freeze-drying
is complete.
the frozen food. Engage the vacuum pump, and run it until the core
Best Bets for Freeze-Drying
Drying temperatures
Primary Secondary Total
Condenser drying
Dimension Shelf Shelf time
Ingredient Prep (em) (in) (oc) (oF) (oc) (oF) (oc) (oF) (h) Example use
beef raw, sliced 30 86 8 grind to a fine powder, and use to form a meaty
1 'Ya - 20 - 4 - 45 - 49 crust on steaks and hamburgers
break into "carpaccio chips," and dust with
beef raw, pounded paper-thin - 20 -4 -45 - 49 30 86 4 olive oil, grated Parmesan, and arugula powder
tenderloin -35 - 31 -60 - 76 Astronaut Ramen
-40 -40 - 65 - 85
eggs cooked, peeled sliced or 60 140 12 enjoy whole; use in cereal or as a garn ish or
fruits sliced quartered - 30 -22 -55 - 67 seasoning
-25 -13 - 50 - 58 30 86 4
0.1 'A2 -10 14 - 35 - 31 8 sold commercially as astronaut ice cream
40 104 64 Caesar Salad (see page 189)
pureed 1 :Ys 40 104 96
chunks 2 :y.. 12 reconstitute in melted butter; grind to a
powder, and use as a seasoning
ice cream sliced 2.5 1 Astronaut Ramen
lettuce and leaves whole grind to a fine powder, and use as a seasoning
tender greens break into panko-like slivers, and use as a
breading or garnish
lobster raw, whole, shelled 20 68 120 instant bouillon, breading; use to enrich soups
and sauces
noodles cooked 0.1 'A2 - 15 5 - 40 -40 70 158 12 Astronaut Ramen, breading, onion tart, instant
pork belly 0.5 y.. - 20 - 4 - 45 - 49 30 86 6 potato flakes
cooked or raw,
thinly sliced - 45 - 49
- 35 - 31
pork shoulder cooked tender, shredded - 20 - 4 30 86 12
20 68 8
scallops raw, pureed - 10 14 48
whole
stocks, broths, cubed 2 3,4 -15 5 -40 -40 70 158 36
40 104 8
and sauces ground 1 'Ya 4
4
vegetables fine julienne - 25 -13 - 50 - 58 4
24
minced 8
sliced 0.1 'A2
mushroom caps whole
1 :Ys
pureed
from page 2-451
58 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
HOW TO USE A SPRAY DRYER
CD Prepare the liquid . Add a bulking agent and any flavoring as needed. @ Begin spray-dry ing. The powder will collect in a receptacle at the bottom
of the machine. If the liquid is too wet and sticky, or if it clumps, increase
Place the liquid into the intake system of the spray dryer. the amount of bulking agent, and set the inlet and outlet temperatures
5-10 °CI 10-20 °Fhigher.
0 Set the temperature of the liquid spray. Use the dial at the top of the
Evaporative coo ling keeps the juice much cooler as it dries than the outlet
machine to set the spray or inlet-control temperature. We have found temperature would suggest.
70 oc 1160 °Fto be a good starting point for kitchen-scale machines.
®Set the air temperature or outlet temperature. The control is at the base
of the machine. Start at 50 oc I 120 °F.
SPRAY-DRIED BUTTERMILK Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Buttermilk 2 kg 100%
Dextrose DE 36 20g 1% CD Blend together thoroughly.
Microcrystalline cellulose 20g 1% 0 Set spray dryer's inlet temperature to 90 oc 1 194 °F. The out let temperature
(AviceI CG 200, FMC
Biopolymer brand) 0 .4g 0.04% should read about 57 oc I 135 °F.
Lactic acid
® Spray-dry at full pressure until liquid is fully processed, about 2 h.
from page 2-443 @ Store powder in airtight container.
SPRAY-DRIED BLOOD ORANGE JUICE Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Blood orange juice, clarified 2 kg 100%
Maltodextrin DE 9 100g 5% CD Blend together thoroughly.
Citric acid 20g 1% 0 Set spray dryer's inlet temperature to 100 oc I 212 °F. The outlet temperature
shou ld read approximately 65 oc I 149 °F.
® Spray-dry at full pressure until liquid is fully processed, about 2 h.
@ Al low spray-dried juice to cool completely. If powder clumps, grind in coffee grinder,
and try adding more maltodextrin and using higher drying temperature for the next
batch.
® Store powder in an airtight container.
from page 2·443
Prefreezing Temperatures
for Freeze-Dried Foods
Freeze to below
Ingredient (oc) (of)
fruit - 45 - 49
eggs -40 -40
ice cream - 35 -31
vegetables - -30 - 22
meat -25 - 13
pastas, grains, and legumes -20 -4 When freeze-drying liquids such as stocks, grind
the frozen liquid before spreading it out as a thin
stocks, broths, and sauces -20 -4 layer for much faster drying. A Pacojet does a
good job on the grinding.
seafood - 15 5
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 59
FREEZE-DRIED BEEF GRAVY GRANULES Yields200 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beefshank, ground 1.2 kg 160%
Neutral oil 100g 13.3% CD Panfry; brown until dark.
0 Remove beeffrom pan, and reserve.
Carrots, thinly sliced 150g 20%
Button mushrooms, thinly sliced 100g 13.3% ® Measure 50 g of rendered suet an d reserve.
Leeks, thinly sliced 100g 13.3% @) Prepare vegetab les as noted.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 100g 13 .3% ® Brown vegetables together in suet until deep amber.
Turnips, thinly sliced 100g 13.3%
Garlic heads, split 7Sg 10% ® Deglaze vegetables.
Rendered suet, from above SOg 6.7% 0 Add browned beef.
Redwine 150g 20%
Brandy SOg 6.7% ® Transfer beef and vegetable mixture to pressure cooker.
1 kg 133%
White beefstock ® Add stock, and pressure-cook at 1 bar I 15 psi for1 h.
see page 6
@ Strain through fine sieve.
Centrifuged beefstock, from above 750 g 100% @ Pour strained stock into centrifuge bottles.
1% @ Centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h, and strain through fine sieve.
160 Bloom ge latin 7.5 g @ Measure 750 g ofstock, and cool.
@ Disperse gelatin into cold stock, and warm to dissolve ge latin .
For rehydration: 12g 1.6%
Freeze-dried beef gravy granules 8g 1.1 % @ Pour stock into 30.5 em by 20 em I 12 in by Bin hotel pan, and freeze completely.
Ultra-Sperse A 2g 0.3%
Salt 120g 16% @ Wrap frozen stock sheet in cheesecloth .
Water, boiling
@ Place perforated hotel pan (30.5 em by 20 em I 12 in by 8 in) onto another hotel
pan that is same size but deeper.
@ Lay wrapped frozen stock sheet flat on perforated pan; a llow thawing stock to
drip down into deeper pan below it.
@ Freeze-dry clarified broth for 12 h, by using table on page 58.
@ Mix together.
@ Whisk into dry blend.
@ Divide gravy into four servings.
from page 2-454
SALTED, FREEZE-DRIED lOBSTER Yields20 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 100g 167%
Salt 7g 12% CD Mix until dissolved.
Lobster tail 60g 100%
0 Brine, refrigerated , for12 h. Cook so us vide in 57 •c I 135 •Fbath for 20 min.
from page 2-454
® Freeze dry for12 h, by using the table on page 58.
@) To use as seasoning, grate the dried lobster over food.
60 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
RAMEN VEGETABLES Yields 50 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Mirin 205g 205%
Water 205g 205% 0 Comb ine, vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 80 ' CI 176 ' Fbath for 2 h.
Soy sauce 105g 105%
Bamboo shoots 100g 100% @ C o ol.
Sugar 50g 50% ® Strain; discard liquid .
100%
Carrots, fine julienne lOOg 0 Sl ice bamboo shoots 1 mm I y,. in thin.
40%
Young ginger, minced 40g ® Freeze-dry by us ing the table on page 58.
100% ® Blanch for 30 s.
Hon-shimeji mushrooms, tops 100g 100%
Scallions, greens only, 100g 0 Shock in ice-water bath .
fine ju lienne
from page 2·455 ® Freeze-dry as above.
® Vacuum seal a nd cook so us vide in 90 'C I 194 ' F bath for1 h.
@ Freeze-dry as above.
@ Freeze-dry as above.
RAMEN STOCK POWDER Yields 38 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE For more on how to assemble these components to
100% make Astronaut Ramen, see page 5·247.
japanese stock 300g 0 Combine and vacuum seal.
see page 6 83% 0 Cook so us vide in 60 ' C I 140 ' Fbath for 1 h.
Chinese everyday stock 250g 3.3% ® Strain.
see page 6
2% 0 Heat broth to 85 ' C I 185 ' F.
Scallions, whites only, lOg 2%
thinly sliced 1.7% ® Add to simmering broth.
1.3% ® Steep for10 s.
Kombu 6g 0.7%
0 Strain.
Smithfield ham, thinly sliced 6g
® Season.
Garlic, finely minced 5g ® Freeze-dry by us ing the table on page 58.
@ Grind into powder.
Dried scallop (store-bought) 4g
Bonito flakes (katsuobush i) 2g
White soy sauce to taste
from page 2·455
THE MODERNIST KITCHEN 61
HOW TO CARBONATE FRUIT WITH DRY ICE
CD Put a layer of crushed dry ice in the bottom of a plastic, sealable 0 Seal container. The lid may pop off a coup le of times due to a buildup
container. Remember to use all safety procedures when handling dry ice. of air pressure. That's fine. Just put the lid back on.
0 Place an insulating layer of paper towels or a clean, dry tea towel on ® Let the fruit carbonate. This will take only 30 min for smal l fruits like
grapes and overnight for larger, who le fruits like app les and oranges.
the ice layer. This protects the fruit from the extreme temperature of Longer carbonation times require refrigeration .
the dry ice.
® Put the cold fruit on the insulating layer. Let the dry ice and fruit settle a
few minutes so that the "s team " pushes out the oxygen in the container.
STRAWBERRY MILK SHAKE ADAPTED FROM JUAN MARl ARZAK Yields 1.2 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Strawberries, 1 kg 167%
washed and trimmed CD Arrange in one layer, and dust w ith fr"uctose.
Fructose 400g 67% 0 Freeze.
® Thaw at room temperature.
0 Puree.
® Strain through fine sieve and reserve 600 g of strawberry juice.
Skim milk 600g 100% ® Disperse powders in milk.
Sweet whey powder 12g
2% 0 Bring to simmer, and remove from heat.
(7% )*
® Cool.
0 .2%
Locust bean gum 1.2 g (0.7%)*
(Tic Gums brand)
Strawberry juice, from above 600g 100% ® Blend cooled milk into reserved juice.
100g
Dry ice 16 .7% @ Crush dry ice in blender to fine powder.
® Divide even ly among four glasses.
@ Pour 200 g of mi lk shake into each glass. Wait 10 s; milk shakes wi ll bubb le over.
® Serve alongside our Mushroom Swiss Burger (see page 5·11).
from page 2·473 *(% ofthe total weight ofthe strawberryjuice and milk)
ORANGE SODA Yields340 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Navel orange juice
see page 2-352 300 g (from 100% CD Centrifuge at 27,500g for1 h.
Fructose 0 Strain through fine sieve.
Phosphoric acid 700 g of oranges)
Gum arabic ® Combine with juice, and reserve.
Water 30g 10% For other methods of clarifying juice,
Orange essential oil 2g 0.67% see page 2·352.
1.67%
from page 2-472 5g 0.67% 0 Blend together until smooth.
2g 0.04%
0.12g ® Add 1.5 g of emulsion to sweetened juice, and
(about refrigerate remain ing emulsion for later use.
seven drops)
® Hand-blend juice until smooth.
0 Strain through fine sieve.
® Transfer to soda siphon, and charge w ith two
carbon dioxide cartridges.
® Refrigerate soda in siphons for at least 2 h
before serving.
62 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
CARBONATED GOLDEN RAISINS YieldslOO g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Verjuice (store-bought) 125 g 250%
Golden raisins SO g 100% 0 Combine.
Water lOg 20% 0 Refrigerate for 2 h to hydrate.
® Transfer to carbonating siphon, and charge with three
carbon dioxide cartridges forlY2 h before serving.
from page 5·159
SHIGOKU OYSTER WITH FIZZY GRAPES, Yields300 g
FRESH WASABI, AND MISO POWDER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Shiro miso lSOg 125%
0 Dehydrate at 45 ·c I 113 •Fforl2 h.
Shigoku oysters (or 120g 0 Grind to fine powder, and reserve.
Kumamoto) (12 oysters)
100% ® Shuck, reservingjuice.
@ Clean thoroughly.
® Refrigerate oysters.
Muscat grapes 120g 100% ® Strain juice, and measure 40 g.
0 Blanch for 10 s.
® Shock in ice water.
® Peel, and halve through stem end.
Verjuice (store-bought) SOg 42% @ Combine.
Rice wine vinegar Sg
Salt lg 4% @ Pour over peeled grapes.
0 .8% @ Place grapes and juice into siphon .
@ Charge with two cartridges of carbon dioxide for at
least 5 h before serv ice, and refrigerate.
Wasabi (fresh) 8g 6% @ Grate finely, and reserve.
Oyster juice, from above 40g 33% @ Combine.
Verjuice 30 g 25% @ Blend until smooth.
Sucrose esters (Sucro, 0.7g 0.58% @ Remove carbonated grapes from siphon, and place
Texturas brand) (7%)*
sy, pieces at bottom of each bowl.
@ Top each bowl with one shucked oyster.
@ Garnish with miso powder and wasabi.
@ Whip foam until frothy with handheld foaming wand.
@ Dress bowls with oyster-Verjuice foam.
from page 5·200 *(% oftotal weight ofoysterjuice and sourgrapejuice)
T HE M ODER NI ST KI TCH EN 63
Best Bets for Tartares
Meat Recipe Texture Seasoning Note
coarse
beef traditional French steak tartare raw shallot, raw egg yolk, the classic tartare
ketchup, capers, parsley, mustard,
Worcestershire, Tabasco sauce
Syrian kafta nayyeh fine mint, hot mustard, allspice,
raw onion, olive oil
Ethiopian kitfo fine chili powder, niter kibbeh traditionally served with injera or
kocho
Wylie Dufresne's hanger steak coarse Bearnaise ice cream, scallion, hanger steak is tenderized so us vide
tartare fine pickled Asian pear, amaro (see page 2·244)
fine
lamb Lebanese kibbeh bulgur wheat, raw garlic, cinnamon young lamb is best
moderately
langoustine Pierre Gagnaire's langoustine coarse green mango, thyme nougatine use only extremely fresh
fine paste
and poppy seed tartare langoustines
fine
mackerel horse mackerel (aji) tartare young ginger, shiso, sansho pepper
coarse
with ginger
musk ox Rene Redzepi 's musk ox tartare oxalis, juniper, tarragon musk ox is dry-aged for 48 days
with oxalis and tarragon cream
oyster David Kinch's oyster and beef mustard, horseradish, hot sauce
tartare
salmon salmon tartare with citrus makrud lime, sesame oil, chili, do not add citrus until just before
yuzu serving; otherwise, it will cook
scallop Alain Passard 's scallop and small cubes surface of fish
truffle tartare truffle, artichoke, hazelnut oil, sear quickly over high heat before
tuna belly Heston Blumenthal's scallop fine lemon, tarragon chopping to develop sweetness
tuna loin and white chocolate tartare preserved lemon, white chocolate,
Nobu Matsuhisa's toro fine paste caviar
and caviar tartare soy sauce, caviar
Hawaiian poke medium
cubes ogo, candlenut, sweet onion,
venison cured venison tartare small cubes toasted-sesame oil
blackberry, fennel, coffee,
with coffee smoked salt
from page 3·63
64 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
HANGER STEAK TARTARE ADAPTED FROM WYLIE DUFRESNE Yields 650 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Cha mpagne vinegar 500g 125%
White wine 400g 100% CD Co mbin e, and red uce until syrupy.
Shallots, diced 290g 72.5 %
Tarragon stems five ste ms 0 Strain.
W ater 260g
Sugar 140 g 0 Measure 45 g, and reserve.
Glucose 60g
Egg yolks 625g 65% @) Comb in e in sma ll pot.
35 % ® Heat while whisk ing until sugar has dissolved comp lete ly.
Bearnaise redu ctio n, 45g 15% ® Remove from heat, and coo l syrup slightly.
from above 155% 0 Temper w ith warm sy rup.
Salt Sg ® Hand-blend.
Hanger steak 400g 11.25% ® Add to egg mixture, to taste.
@ Blend mixture.
Extra-virgin olive oil 6g 1. 25 % @ Freeze in Pacojet co ntain ers, or churn in ice cream maker.
100%
Salt 4g @ Vacuum seal, and cook so us vide in 50 •c / 122 •Fbath for 3 h.
Tarrago n, minced 3g 1. 5%
Tabasco sauce l.S g @ Coo l quickly in ice -water bath, and refrigerate.
Black pepper 0 .75g 1% @ Sear one sid e of stea k.
from page 3·65 0.8% @ Coo l complete ly, and dice finely.
0.4% @ Season steak tartare.
0.2 % @ Pacotize ice cream, if using Pacoj et.
@ Spoon steak onto plates, and garn ish with spoonful of ice crea m.
BEEF AND OYSTER TARTARE ADAPTED FROM DAVID KINCH Yields 680 g (fourto eight portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
American Wagyu beef 400g 100%
bavette or rib eye CD Trim offfat.
BOg 20%
Pemaquid oysters 0 Dice finely.
15%
Ketchup (Heinz brand) 60g 10% 0 Shuck, reserving jui ces.
4 .5%
Extra-virgin olive oil 40g 2% @) Kee p refrigerated.
1.25% ® Combine.
Orleans mustard 18 g 0.75% ® Adjust ketchup mi xtu re to taste.
30%
Hot sauce (Crystal brand) 8g 0 Whiptostiffpeaks.
25% ® Refrigerate.
Worcestersh ire sauce Sg ® Soften with paddle mixer until silky.
Lemon juice 3g
Whipping cream 120 g
Cream cheese 100 g 10% @ Fo ld in to cream cheese.
(Ph iladelphia brand) @ Fold crea m cheese mi xture ca refu lly into cold whipped cream.
Ho rseradish root, 40g @ Season wh ipped horse radi sh cream carefull y to taste; chill.
finely grated @ Mince raw oysters, and comb ine with reserved oyster juices.
to taste @ Fold oysters into diced raw beef, and seaso n with ketchup mi xture as desired.
Rice vinegar to taste @ Pl ace spoonful of beef and oyster tartare on each plate, and garnish with spoon fu l of
Lime juice to taste
Salt horseradish cream.
from page 3·66
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 65
SCALLOP TARTARE INSPIRED BY ALAIN PASSARO Yields300g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
30 g
Mayonnaise (Kewpie or other good 15% CD Whisk to form truffle mayonnaise.
quality brand)
Black truffle concentrate 20g 10%
see page 57
Black truffle, minced lOg 5% 0 Fold into truffle mayonnaise.
Lime juice 3g 1.5%
Roasted-hazelnut oil 3g 1.5%
Lime zest lg 0.5%
Sea scallop (sushi quality), minced 200g 100%
Fuji apple, peeled and minced 40g 20%
Chives, minced 0.75g 0.4%
Lime juice to taste ® Season scallop mixture generously.
Salt to taste @) Ch ill.
Brioche, frozen and sliced lOg 5% ® Dust brioche slices with powder.
8g 4%
2 mm I X6 in thick
Freeze-dried scallop powder
see page 58
Clarified unsalted butter 25 g 12.5% @ Panfry brioche until gold en.
0 Drain on paper towels.
® Cut into desired shapes .
Chive blossoms as desired ® Spoon scallop tartare into serving bowls.
@ Garnish with brioche and chive blossoms.
from page 3·67
66 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN MANUAL
SALMON TARTARE CORNETS ADAPTED FROM THOMAS KELLER Yields 400 g (24 cornets)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
For the cornets: 65g 4.5% CD Combine and reserve.
All-purpose flour
Sugar 20g 13.5%
2.5%
Salt 4g 77%
Unsalted butter, softened 115g 0 Whisk until comp lete ly smooth and texture resembles mayonnaise.
but still cool to touch
Egg whites, co ld 90g 60% ® Beat egg whites into flour mixture until smooth.
@) Whisk in softened butter by thirds until batter is creamy.
® Place circular stencil, 10 em I 4 in. in diameter, on sili cone mat.
® Spread some batter evenly inside stenc il.
0 Lift stencil off sheet, and repeat process to make 24 circl es.
Black sesame seeds 20 g 13.5% ® Sprinkle over each batter circl e.
® Bake in 205 oc I 400 °Foven until batter is set and rippling, 4-6 min.
@ Transfer sheet with circl es to open oven door to keep warm.
@ Flip one circle over, sesame seed side down; place an 11.5 em I 4Y2in cornet mold (s ize #35) at
bottom of circle.
@ If you are right-handed, place pointed end of mold to your left and op en end to your right.
Tip of mold shou ld touch lower left edge of circl e. Reverse if left-handed.
@ Fold bottom of circle up and around mold.
@ Roll carefu lly upward and to left to wrap circle tightly around mold. Leave circle wrapped
around its mold.
@ Repeat cornet molding process for remaining circles .
@ Arrange cornets seam side down and leaning against each other.
@ Bake in 205 oc I 400 oFoven until gold en brown, another 3- 4 min, to set seams.
@ Take out of oven, and coo l slightly for 30 s. Remove from molds.
@ Store in airtight container for 48 h maximum.
For the salmon tartare:
Salmon fillet, preferably 150g 100% @ Remove skin and pin bones.
belly @ Mince finely.
Shallot, finely minced 7g 4.5% @ Add to minced salmon.
Chives, finely minced 5g 3.5 % @ Fold in to comb in e.
Extra-virgin olive oil 2g 1.5% @ Adjust for seasoning, if necessary.
Kosher salt 2g 1.5% @ Cover salmon tartare, and refrigerate for at lea st 30 min.
Lemon zest 1.6 g 1%
White pepper, to taste
freshly ground
For the red-o nion cream:
Red onion, finely minced 9g 6% @ Rinse onion in strainer under co ld water, and dry.
Creme fraiche 115g 77% @ Whisk until soft peaks form .
@ Fold onions in.
Salt to taste @ Season.
White pepper, to taste @ Transfer onion cream to pastry bag.
freshly ground @ Refrigerate for at least 1 h to firm up.
Chive tips, 24 tips ® Pipe onion cream into each cornet.
2Y2 em 11 in long @ Spoon 3 g of salmon tartare over cream.
@ Garn ish with single chive tip .
from page 3·68
ME AT AND SEAFOOD 67
TENDER MEATS SOUS VIDE
CD Select a n ingred ient and target temperature. The table below provides 0 Cook so us vide until th e co re temperature of the meat reac hes the target.
final co re temperatures for many popular tender cuts; our preferences Use a digital probe th ermomete r, as described on page 2·243.
are highli gh ted in bold.
® Optio nall y, sear the meat by using whichever method yo u prefer.
0 Set so us vide bath to 1"CI 1.8 "Fabove the target temperature se lected. For options, see page 2·270.
® Vacuum seal the meat with any flavorings, fats, or liqu ids desired. ® Seaso n as des ired.
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Meats So us Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Rare Medium rare Pink Medium
Ingredient 50 122 53 127 56 133 62 144 Note See page
beef, filet mignon 54 129 56 133 59 138 62 144 144
beef, flank c ut thinly against the g ra in for maximum
tenderness, or us e ka lbi marinade 5·5
beef, hanger 51 124 54 129 58 136 60 140 287
beef loin (rib eye) 54 129 56 133 58 136 60 140 dry aged is id ea l 68
beef, strip steak 52 126 54 129 58 136 62 144 69
lamb, leg 54 129 57 135 60 140 65 149 hi g h e nzy mat ic activity ca n ca use mushin ess;
lamb loin (rack) 54 129 57 135 59 138 62 144 cook ing to a hotte r-th a n- co re temperature is 94
veal loin 52 126 54 129 56 133 60 140 recommended; use the sa me te mpe ratures 69
venison loin 50 122 53 127 58 136 60 140 for simi lar game 89
70
pork loin n/ a 58 136 60 140 62 144 see page 3-48 for specifi c c uts
pork tenderloin n/ a 56 133 59 138 61 142
pork, shoulder blade n/ a 58 136 60 140 64 147 cook in 72 "CI 162 "F bath to co re
rabbit loin n/ a 56 133 59 138 62 144
temperatures to prevent mushiness
suckling pig loin n/ a 56 133 58 136 60 140
from page 3·96 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
RACK OF LAMB Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Rack of lamb, eight ribs, 600g 100%
frenched to loi n CD Wrap rosemary sprigs aro un d bone to prevent them from being pressed into meat.
Rosemary sp rigs lOg
Olive oil lOOg 1.75% 0 Vacuum seal rack with oil.
Ne utral oil as needed 16.5%
to taste ® Cook lamb so us vide in 62 "C/ 144 "F bath to core temperature of57 "C/ 135 "F, abo ut40 min,
Salt and then rest at room temperature for10 min .
0 Sear lamb, fat side dow n, until go ld e n. Sl ice between ribs into individual chops.
® Season with salt.
from page 529
68 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
PORK TENDERLOIN WITH JUNIPER Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Pork tenderloin, tendon 500 g 100%
and silverskin removed 0 Vacu um seal together.
juniper brine 200 g 40% 0 Refrigerate for12 h.
see page 109
Water, cold 100 g ® Drain, and refrigerate for 24 h.
160 Bloom gelatin 10 g
20% 0 Disperse gelatin in water, and warm until fully dissolved.
2% ® Reserve.
(7%)*
Leeks 300 g 60% ® Peel away first layer, and discard.
ActivaRM 5g
0 Pee l away next four layers, and cut into large sheets.
from page 5·36
® Vacuum sea l leek sheets with gelatin mixture.
® Steam for 4 min, shock in ice-water bath, and pat dry.
1% @ Arrange sheets on plastic wrap to make single large sheet, overlapp ing sheets every
1cm /% in.
@ Dust sheets even ly with Activa .
@ Roll brined pork in leek sheets, twisting ends of plastic w rap tightly to form ro ll.
@ Vacuum seal.
@ Refrigerate for 12 h to ensure le ek wrapper adheres to pork.
@ Cook pork tenderloin so us vide in 60 oc / 140 °F bath to core temperature of 59 oc / 138 °F,
about 50 min.
@ Slice to desired thickness, and serve with mushroom jus or red-eye gravy (see pages 37
or 225).
*(%oftotal weight oftenderloin, juniper brine, water, and leeks)
VENISON LOIN ROSSINI ADAPTED FROM YANNICK ALLENO Yields 1.1 kg (fo ur portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Venison rack (first four 600 g 7.5% 0 Vacuum sea l together.
ribs on ly), bones frenched 33% 0 Cook so us vide in 65 oc / 149 °F bath to core temperature of 56 oc / 133 °F, about 25 min.
Olive oil 45 g 25% ® Let rest at room temperature for 10 min.
Duck foie gras, sl iced 200g 0 Reserve.
2.5cm / 1 in thick
® Vacuum sea l.
Truffle jus 150g
see page 212 ® Cook so us vide in 55 oc / 131 °F bath to core temperature of 54 oc / 129 °F, about 20 min.
0 Hold for further 20 min at temperature to pasteurize (o ptional).
® Heat jus until just warmed.
Game broth or brown 100 g 16.5% ® Simmer pasta she ll s in game broth and mushroom ju s until al dente.
chi cken stock
see page 14 or page 6
Semolina pasta she lls 50g 8.5%
5%
Mushroom jus 30g
see page 37 4%
Heavy cream, warmed 25g @ Fold into pasta.
and whipped
@ Slice venison into individual rib chops.
Salt to taste @ Cover top of each loin portion with truffle sli ces, if using.
Summer truffle, peeled, as desired @ Slice foie gras into sections 1 em /3/s in thick .
thinly sliced and ring cut @ Season ven ison, foie gras, and pasta.
@ Arrange eve nly amo ng plates, and garn ish with truffle jus.
into 1.25 em I Y2 in circles
(optional)
from page 3·98
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 69
RIB EYE WITH CHERRY MUSTARD MARMALADE AND PORCINI
ADAPTED FROM ALAIN DUCASSE Yields 1 kg (four portions)
Flaky sea salt is a great way to finish INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
a cooked piece of meat or fish. It 800g 100%
adds crunchy bursts ofsaltiness. Beef rib eye, bone in, 0 Vacuum seal together.
The only problem is that the salt 40g 5% 0 Cook so us vide in 54 oc 1 129 °F bath to core
tends to dissolve into the natural 5 em I 2 in thick
juices by the time the dish reaches 6% temperature of 53 oc I 127 °F, about 1]4 h.
the table. Herve This came up with Unsalted butter 3%
a solution: toss the salt crystals with 1.5% ® Sear surfaces with blowtorch.
oil or fat. A thin layer of oil then Shallots, finely minced 50g 19% @ Sweat until shallots are tender but not browned.
separates the flakes from the cook-
ingjuices and prevents the salt from Fennel, finely minced 25g 6% ® Add to shallot mixture.
dissolving. 5% ® Reduce to 100 g to form cherry marmalade.
Neutral oil 12.5 g 0.05%
Pickled cherry brine 150g
see page 180
Red wine vinegar 50g
Red wine (Pi not Nair) 40g
Quatre epices 0.5g
see page 48
Black peppercorns, 0.4 g 0.05%
crushed
Juniper berries, finely 0.4 g 0.05%
ground
Coriander seeds, finely 0.15g 0.02%
ground 12.5%
Pickled cherries, finely lOOg 0 Whisk into marmalade.
minced
see page180
Grain mustard 40g 5%
4.5%
Morello cherry puree 35 g 1%
Pressure-cooked mustard 8 g
seeds
see page 151
Porcini (fresh) lOOg 12.5% ® Slice porcini very thinly, and quickly saute until golden
and cooked through.
Neutral oil as needed
® Slice meat to desired thickness.
Salt to taste @ Season meat, marmalade, and mushrooms, and
arrange on plates.
from page 3·97
SOUS VIDE RABBIT LOIN Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Rabbit loins, trimmed 450 g 2.2% 0 Dust rabbit loins evenly with Activa.
and silver skin removed 10 g 0 Position opposing loins, tapered sides together, to
11%
Activa RM orGS 2.2% form even cylinders 3 em 1 1]4 in . in diameter.
Extra virgin olive oil 50g ® Wrap each pair of loins tightly in plastic wrap, and
vacuum seal.
Freeze-dried piquillo lOg
pepper powder to taste @ Refrigerate for at least 6 h to allow enzyme to bind
see page 188 loins.
Salt ® Vacuum seal loins with oil.
from page 5·242 ® Cook so us vide in 57 oc I 135 oF bath to core
temperature of 56 oc I 133 °F, about 25 min.
0 Dust rabbit loin with piquillo pepper powder, and
then slice on bias, 1 em I% in thick.
® Season.
70 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
TENDER POUlTRY SOUS VIDE
<D Select a n ingred ie nt a nd target temperature. Th e table below provides ® Pasteurize (o ptio nal). Hold at cooki ng temperature for the amo unt of
time indi cated in th e table to ach ieve full pasteurization.
final core temperatures for ma ny kinds of poultry, both red (top table) a nd
white (bottom table). We prefer the temperatures in bold . ® Optionally, sear the meat. See page 2·270 for seari ng methods.
0 Set so us vide bath to 1 oc / 1.8 °Fabove the target core temperature. 0 Season as des ired.
® Vacuum sea l the poultry w ith a ny flavorings, fats, or liquids. "T im e to pasteurize" is th e a mount of time to hold after the core reaches the
specifie d te mp e rature, if the bath is 1 °C / 1. 8 °Fabove core temperature.
0 Cook so us vide until the core temperatu re of the meat reaches the target.
Use a di gita l probe thermometer, as described o n pages 2·202 a nd 2·243.
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Red Poultry So us Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Rare Hold to pasteurize Medium rare Hold to pasteurize Pink Hold to pasteurize
Ingredient (oC) (oF) (h) (oC) (oF) (h) (oC) (oF) (min ) See page
duck breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 5·121
goose breast 50 122 n/ a 52 126 5 h 15 min 55 151 40
grouse breast 50 122 n/ a 52 126 5 h 15 min 58 136 30
ostrich fillet 50 122 n/ a 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30
pigeon breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 5·1 25
from page 3·99 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
Best Bets for Cooking Tender White Poultry So us Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Medium rare Hold to Hold to Hold to
(slightly pink) pasteurize Medium pasteurize Medium well pasteurize
Ingredient ( 0 C) (°F) (min) (°C) (°F) (min) (°C) (°F) (min) Note See page
5·113
chicken breast 58 136 30 61 142 13 65 149 2
5·135
chicken "oyster" 61 142 15 65 149 2 68 154 '/2
73
guinea hen breast 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 best tenderized with a 101
yog hurt- or e nzy me-
pheasant breast 56 133 35 54 129 2 h 17 min 58 136 30 enriched marinade
quail breast 50 122 12 h 52 126 5 h 15 min 54 129 2 h 17 min
turkey breast 54 129 2 h 17 min 56 133 35 58 136 30 brine
from page 3·99 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 71
POULET AU FEU D'ENFER ADAPTED FROM FERNA ND POINT Yields 1.1 kg (four to eight portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Chicken breasts, skin on 500g 100%
Chicken thighs, bone in 500 g 100% 0 Season chi cken pieces.
and skin on 0 Vacuum seal individu ally.
Salt to taste 50% ® Cook breasts so us vide in 60 ' C I 140 ' F bath to co re temperature of 59 ' C I 138 ' F, abo ut
Chicken wings, w.hole, 250g 35min.
finely chopped
@ Hold for add itional20 min to pasteurize (optional).
® Cook thighs so us vide in 65 ' C I 149 ' F bath for1Y2 h.
® Saute until golden, about 12 min.
Shallots, thinly sliced 100g 20%
6%
Unsalted butter 30g 4%
40%
Garlic, thinly sliced 20g
18%
Brown chicken stock 200g 16% 0 Degl aze wings.
see page 6 10%
® Redu ce liquid by two-thirds until syrupy, aboutlO min.
White wine (dry) 90g ® Strain sauce.
Red wine vinegar 80g @ Season vinegar sa uce.
Heavy cream 50g
Black pepper, coarsely to taste
ground
Salt to taste
Clarified unsalted butter as needed @ Heat thin film of butter over high heat in two separate pans.
@ Saute chanterelles until just cooked through, and season with salt.
Chanterelles, washed 200g 40% @ Sear cooked chicken pieces, sk in sid e down only, until sk in is just crisped, about 2 min .
thoroughly 6% @ Slice, and divid e even ly among plates.
@ Garnish with vin egar sauce, chante rell es, and chives.
Chives, finely minced 30g
(or chive blossoms)
from page 3·100
PIGEON WITH SHELLFISH BUTTER ADAPTED FROM ALAIN CHAPEL Yields 550 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
240 g 100%
Pigeon breast roulade (two roulades) 33% 0 Vacuum seal together.
see page 3·254 80g 0 Cook so us vide in 55 ' C I 131 ' F bath to core temperature of 54 ' C I 129 ' F, about 25 min.
75%
Shellfish butter ® Hold for add itiona12 Y' h to pasteurize (optional).
see page29 33% @ Remove roul ades from bag, and let rest for 5 min.
5% ® Reserve infused shellfish butter in warm place.
Spot prawn tails, peeled 180g 4% ® Vacuum seal tails.
(12 tails,
15 g eac h) 0 Cook so us vide in 50 ' C I 122 ' F bath to co re temperature of 49 ' C I 120 ' F, about 12 min.
Oyster mushrooms, small 80g ® Saute mushrooms until just cooked through.
Unsalted butter 12g ® Season mushrooms, pigeon, and prawns.
@ Slice each roulad e into six pieces, discard ends, and divide among four plates.
Salt to taste @ Garnish eve nly with prawn tails, shellfish butter, mushrooms, and cand ied ginger.
Crystallized ginger, small lOg
dice
from page 3·100
72 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
QUAIL WITH APPLE-VINEGAR EMULSION AND WATER CHESTNUTS Yields350 g
ADAPTED FROM CHARLIE TROTTER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Quail, whole, semi- 400g 15% CD Pack cure evenly onto quails.
boneless (fo ur whole) 0 Vacuum seal together.
60g 50% ® Refrigerate for 2 h.
Con fit cure mix 0 Rinse off cu re, and vacuum seal quails indi vidua ll y.
seepage lOG
® Cook so us vide in 55 ' C I 131 ' Fbath to core temperature of 54 ' C I 129 ' F, about 25 min.
Brown chi cken stock 200g @ Ho ld at 54 ' C I 129 ' Ffor another 2 h 17 min to pasteurize (optiona l).
see page 6 0 Remove from bags, and a ll ow to rest for 15 min.
® Reduce over high heat to 100 g, and strain.
App le cider (fres h) 125g 31 %
12.5 %
Apple cider vinegar 50g 12.5%
Shallots, thinly sli ced 7.5%
so g
1.25%
Unsalted butter 30g 10% ® Blend into reduction until fu ll y emu lsified.
10% @ Season.
Salt to taste @ Wh isk into app le-vinegar emu lsion, and reserve warm .
@ Saute water chestnuts and p ick led apples in butter until just wa rmed through, about 2 min, to
Che rvil Sg
make topping.
Unsalted butter, cubed 40g
Water chestnuts, peeled, 40 g
finely diced, and blanched
in boilingwaterfor2 min
Sweet pickled app les, 30 g 7.5%
brunoise
see page 3·348 0.5%
25%
Salt to taste 5% @ Season topping.
@ Fold into pickled app le and water chestnut topping, and reserve .
Tarragon, thinly sli ced 2 g @ Dry blend powders.
@ Dredge cooked quails, and shake off excess coatin g.
Crisp Coat UC or potato 100 g
st a rc h @ Deep-fry quai ls in 230 ' C I 450 ' Foil for 35 s.
(Nation al Starch brand)
@ Place in center of plates.
Quatre e pi ces 20g @ Garnish with apple a nd water chestnut topping, and apple-vin egar emulsion .
see page 48 @ Dust with add itiona l quatre ep ices, if desired.
Frying oi l as needed
Quatre ep ices as needed
see page48
fro m page 3·101
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 73
FISH AND SHELLFISH SOUS VIDE
CD Select an ingredient and target temperature. The table below provides 0 Optionally, sear the food by using whichever method you prefer.
final core temperatures for many kinds offish. We prefer the temperatures See page 2·270 for searing options.
in bold.
® Season as desired.
0 Vacuum seal the fish or shellfish with any flavorings, fats, or liquids.
0 Cook so us vide until the core temperature of the food reaches the target.
Use a digital probe thermometer, as described on page 2·243.
The times and temperatures given for "barely cooked" and "tender," and
some of the those for "firm," will not pasteurize the fish. See page J.l90 for
more food safety information.
Best Bets for Cooking Fish Sous Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Barely Tender Firm Flaky
cooked
Ingredient (°C) (°F) (°C) (°F) (°C) (°F) (°C) (°F) Note See page
use same temperatures for cooking ling cod 76
black cod 40 104 45 113 48 118 52 126 use same temperatures for monkfish and cod cheeks next
cod* 38 100 41 112 45 114 49 122 if cooking to less than 46 oc I 115 oF, brine before cooking next
eel nl a nl a 54 129 59 138 if cooking to 54 °( I 129 °F, brine in 4% saline solution, 112
escolar 38 100 41 112 122 165
hake* 44 111 46 115 so 129 refrigerated, for 3 h before cooking 5·147
halibut nl a 42 108 122
40 104 so 122 54 284
77
45 113 so
78
halibut cheek nl a 45 ll3 48 118 52 126
5·175
hamachi 34 93 38 100 40 108 46 115 78
John Dory 78
nl a 45 ll3 48 118 so 122 319
mackerel 40 104 42 108 46 115 48 118 77
monkfish*
42 108 45 ll3 48 118 so 122 76
rockfish nl a 44 lll 48 118 52 126
salmon• 38 100 41 ll2 43 109 46 115
sardine 34 93 38 100 42 108 46 115
sea bass
nl a 45 113 48 118 so 124
skate nla 48 118 52 126 54 129
snapper nl a 48 118 50 122 52 126
sole
nl a 42 108 45 ll3 so 122
sturgeon* nl a 46 115 50 122 54 129
trout 37 99 40 104 46 115 48 118
tuna loin* 38 100 42 108 45 113 48 118
tuna belly* 54 129
38 100 43 109 48 118 so 122
turbot nl a 44 111 49 120 52 126
from page 3·102
*(Many stocks ofthese species are considered overharvested and are protected in several parts ofthe world. We recommend always
checking the status offish before purchasing. For updates and more details, see the Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch web site
at www.mantereybayaquarium.org/cr/seafoodwatch.aspx. Temperatures in bold are those that we prefer.)
74 VO LU ME 6 ·K ITCHE N MAN UAL
LING COD WITH BERGAMOT-INFUSED MILK Yields 700 g (fo ur portions)
ADAPTED FROM MARTIN BERASATEGUJ
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Verjuice (store-bought) SOg 12.5% (i) Vacuum sea l together.
Golden raisins 30g 7.5%
0 Cook so us vide in BO ' CI 176 ' Fbath for 20 min.
Milk 525g 130%
Heavy cream 25g 6.25% ® Cool co mpl ete ly.
Bergamot zest, thinly sliced 60g 15%
0 Drain plumped raisins, and reserve for garnish.
Salt to taste 100%
Ling cod fillet, skin on 400g 20% ® Combine.
Extra-virgin olive oil BOg ® Bring to boil, and then remove from heat.
Salt to taste 0 Add to hot milk.
from page 3·103 ® Steep, covered, forlO min, and then stra in.
® Season in fused milk, and rese rve.
@ Divid e eve nly into four 100 g portions.
@ Vacuum sea l individuall y, with 20 g of oil each.
@ Cook so us vide in 41 ' C I 106 ' Fbath to core temperature of40 ' CI 104 ' F, about 25 min.
@ Season fish .
@ Arrange one portion in each of four bowls.
@ Garnish w ith plumped raisins and infused milk.
If fresh bergamot is unavailable, use bergamot essent ial oil, page 2·310.
ESCOLAR WITH RED WINE BUTTER ADA PTED FROM ERIC RIPERT Yields 500 g (fo ur portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled 150 g 50%
(one potato) (i) Deep-fry in 150 ' C I 30 0 ' Foil until crisp and go ld en brown.
and sliced 1 mm I y,, in thick as needed 33% 0 Drain on paper towels.
to taste 15%
Neutral oil 3.3% ® Season chips.
Salt 100g 0.7%
Red wine (dry) 45g 0.3% 0 Reserve.
Red wine vinegar lOg 0.17%
Shallot, minced 2g 10% ® Combine.
Tarragon 1g ® Reduce to 30 g.
Black peppercorns O.Sg
Thyme 30g 0 Blend into reduction until fully emulsified.
Red wine reduction,
from above O.Sg 0.17% ® Blend into reduction .
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, (7.7%)* ® Strain red wine butter through fine sieve into sma ll saucepa n.
CP Kelco brand) 40g 13.3%
Unsalted butter 30g 10% @ Seaso n red wine butter.
Brown butter to taste @ Reserve, keeping warm.
see page 4 ·213 100% @ Cut fillet into four 75 g portions.
Salt 300g 27% @ Vacuum sea l individu ally with 20 g of o li ve oil each.
BOg
Escolar fillet 1% @ Cook so us vide in 39 ' C I 102' Fbath to core temperature of 3B ' C I 100 ' F, about
Extra-virgin olive oil to taste 0.3%
20 min.
Salt 3g @ Season fillets.
lg @ Slice, and arra nge in ce nter of serving plates.
Shallot, minced to taste @ Comb in e.
Tarragon leaves, thinly sliced 4-5 beans @ Garnish center of fish sli ces.
Black pepper, coarsely ground ® Drizzle warm red w in e butter around plates.
Sea beans, cut into @ Top fis h sli ces with potato crisps and sea beans.
5 em I 2 in lengths *(%oftotal weight ofred wine reduction)
from page 3·104
MEAT AND SE AFOO D 75
TURBOT WITH ONION AND MARROW BROTH Yields 800 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM DAVID KINCH
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
250 %
White onions, peeled and 1.5 kg CD Place in bottom of deep rectangular baking pan, and
halved widthwise
cover with foil.
0 Bake in 230 oc l 450 °Foven for1 h.
® Lower oven temperature to 90 oc I 200 °F, and bake
for 8 h until most of the juice has rendered and
collected in bottom of pan.
0 Pass roasted onion juice through fine sieve.
David Kinch recommends aging ® Measure 250 g.
very fresh turbot or sole for three
to four days to develop flavor and Veal marrow bones, cut 1.5 kg 250% ® Reserve cold .
make the flesh more tender. Ask
your fishmonger when the fish into 7.5 em I 3 in lengths 0 Bake in 175 oc I 350 °Foven for 30 min to render fat, or
was caught to make the proper
adjustment. rend er another way (see page 3·145).
® Strain through fine sieve, and measure 50 g of
rendered marrow fat.
Turbot, on bone 600 g 100% ® Cut into four equal portions.
Unsalted butter 40 g
6.5% @ Vacuum seal individually with 10 g of butter each.
@ Cook so us vide in 50 oc I 122 °Fbath to core
temperature of 49 oc I 120 °F, about 25 min.
Roasted onion juice, from 250 g 42 % @ Blend gums into onion jus until fully dispersed.
above
@ Bring to simmer.
Propylene glycol alginate 0.2 g 0.03%
(FMC BioPolymer brand) (0.08%)*
Xanthan gum (Keltrol T, 0.2 g 0.03%
CP Kelco brand) (0.08 %)*
Rendered veal marrow fat, 50 g 8.5% @ Blend into warm onion jus until emulsified.
from above
@ Reserve warm.
Amaranth leaves lOOg 17% @ Saute leaves until just wilted.
Olive oil lOg
Salt to taste 1.5%
@ Season jus, amaranth leaves, and turbot.
@ Arrange equally in four shallow bowls.
from page 3·105 *(%oftotal weight ofonionjus)
BLACK COD QUANTITY SCALING YieldsSOO g
SOOg 100%
INGREDIENT 7g 1.4% PROCEDURE
Black cod fillet 3g 0 .6%
Salt CD Cut fillet into four equal portions.
Sugar 30% 0 Combine with salt and sugar.
Condrieu wine (optional) as needed ® Vacuum seal portions individually, and refrigerate
for1 h to cure.
Condrieu butter 150g
see page25 0 Remove cured fish from bags.
from page 5·173 ® Rinse and pat dry.
® To cook fish with Girardet method, place fish portions in shallow pan and pour wine around
to submerge fish, leaving its skin exposed .
0 Place fish under hot broiler and cook until wine reaches 55 oc 1 131 °F, and skin has darkened
and crisped, 6-10 min.
® Remove pan from under broiler and wait for core temperature offish to reach 52 oc I 125 °F,
aboutS min.
® Remove fish from pan and rest for 5 min at room temp.
@ Alternatively, vacuum seal fish and cook so us vide in 53 oc I 127 °Fbath to core temperature
of 52 oc l 125 oF, about 25 min.
@ Serve with warm butter.
76 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
STEELHEAD TROUT CON FIT WITH FENNEL SALAD Yields 560 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM TETSUYA WAKUDA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Steelhead tro ut fillet 400g 100%
CD Remove sk in.
Garlic-infused olive oil 100 g 25% 0 Divide fillet into four 100 g porti ons, and reserve.
see page28
0.1 g 0.025% ® Whisk together.
Thym e essential oil O.OSg 0 .013% @) Vacuum seal each fish portion individu all y w ith 15 g of oil.
Rosemary esse ntial oil ® Reserve remaining 40 g of garlic oi l for garn ish.
@ Refrigerate portions for 2 h to marinate.
0 Cook so us vide in 43 oc I 109 °Fbath to core temperature of42 oc I 10B °F, about 25 min.
Fennel b ulb BOg 20% ® Shave very thin on mandolin e.
Black pepper, finely to taste ® Season fenne l shavings.
crush ed
l emon jui ce to taste 2% @ Place portion offish on each plate.
lemon-sce nted olive o il to taste 7.5% @ Dress each portion w ith fennel sa lad and kombu chips.
see page 28 @ Season w ith flaky sa lt, and drizzle ga rli c oil around plates.
to taste @ Garn ish fish eve nl y, and serve.
Salt Bg
Kombu chips, fin ely
chopp ed (store bought) to taste
Flaky sa lt
Steelhead trout caviar 30g
from page 3·106
SOUS VIDE MONKFISH PAVE Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Salt 2Bg 7%
l emon zest, grated 0.4 g 0 .1% CD Comb in e to make cure.
Monkfish fill et 400g 100%
0 Dust cure eve nly over all surfaces of fillet.
Extra virgin olive oil as needed 50%
200g 20% ® Vacuum seal, and refrigerate for 45 min .
Baby zucc hini, sliced BOg 25%
@) Rinse fill et, and pat dry.
1 mm I Y,G in thick ® Cut cured monkfish into four sq uares of100 g each.
@ Brush top surface of each sq uare with ol ive o il.
Extra virgin olive oil
0 l ay zucchini sli ces neatly and in ove rlapp ing fas hi on, on top surface of each sq uare to
Spice mix emulsion 100 g
see page309 resemble fish sca les.
® Vacuum sea l each squa re individu ally with 20 g of olive oil.
from page 5·155
® Cook m onkfish so us vid e in 4B oc I 119 °Fbath to core te mperatu re of 47 oc I 117 °F, abo ut
25 min.
@ Pour wa rm em ulsi on arou nd fis h.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 77
SOUS VIDE SNAPPER Yields350 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
28%
Sambal badjak 70g 6% CD Combine.
(store-bought) 4% 0 Pass through fine sieve, and reserve .
100%
Kejap man is (store-bought) 15 g
10%
Shaoxingwine 10 g
Snapper, filleted 250 g 0 Cut snapper into four 60 g portions.
and skinned 0 Brush sieved mixture in layer 1 mm I y,, in thick, onto snapper portions.
Salt to taste ® Season.
Malaysian aromatic oil 25 g ® Cook snapper portions so us vide in 52 oc I 125 °Fbath to core temperature of 51 oc I 123 °F,
see page 30 four pieces
about 20 min.
Crispy snapper skin
see page 5·168 0 Garnish.
from page 5·169
SOUS VIDE SALMON Yields400g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 150g 37.5%
Salt 9g 2.3% CD Whisk together until sugar is fully dissolved to make brine.
Sugar 5g 1.25%
Salmon fillet 400g 100% 0 Cut fillet into four 100 g portions.
(preferably wild king) 0 Soak in brine for 7 h. For more delicate texture, reduce amount of salt to 5.5 g (1 .35%), and
20%
Extra virgin olive oil 80g brine for 24 h.
35%
Root vegetable jus, 140g @ Drain.
warmed
see page 36 ® Vacuum seal each salmon portion with 30 g of oil.
from page 5·162 ® Refrigerate for 2 h for brine to permeate salmon.
0 Cook salmon so us vide in 41 °C I 106 °Fbath to core temperature of40 oc 1 104 °F, about
25 min .
® Serve with warm jus.
SKATE PAVE WITH BREAD CRUST Yields480 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Skate wings
600g 100% CD Dust evenly with Act iva, ensuring grain of all wings faces same direction.
Activa RM 0 Stack wings, alternating thick and thin ends, and vacuum seal.
(four 125 g wings) 0 Refrigerate for at least 6 h for proteins to bond.
0 Remove from bag, and cut into 100 g squares.
as needed
® Vacuum seal individually, and refrigerate.
White bread, crustless 80g 13%
and cut into four slices, ® Cut bread slices into squares slightly larger than skate squares, and reserve.
3 mm I Ya in thick
Clarified unsalted butter as needed 0 Cook skate so us vide in 52 oc 1 126 °Fbath to core temperature of 51 oc I 124 °F, about 25 min.
see page 4·213
® Remove skate portions from bags, pat dry on paper towels, and place slice of bread on each.
Salt to taste ® Sear, bread sides down, in clarified butter until bread is crisp and golden.
@ Season.
from page 5·159
7 8 VOLUME 6 · KITCHEN M ANUAL
VARIATION: Cooking Shellfish Sous Vide
CD Select an ingredient and target temperature from the tab le below. shucking. Use a clean bag when vacuum sea ling the shellfish again for
cooking.
0 Prep as indicated, and then vacuum sea l as in step 2 on page 74. Blanch
® Fol low steps 3-5 on page 74.
cockles, clams, mussels, and razor clams by vacuum sea ling them while
in the shel l and imm ersing the bag in boiling water for 2 min, and then
Best Bets for Cooking Tender Shellfish So us Vide
Core temperature for doneness
Barely cooked Tender Firm
Ingredient Prep (°C) (°F) (min) (oC) (oF) (min) (°C) (°F) (min) Note See page
cockles or blanched and shucked* 48 118 10 56 133 8 65 149 5 cook in its own juice 36, 5·229
clams
next, 81
langoustine shelled 48 118 15 56 133 12 70 158 6 sear quickly after
cooking below
lobster claws shelled 54 129 to core 60 140 to core 65 149 to core best cooked in butter 81
85, 171
lobster tails shelled 46 115 to core 54 129 to core 59 138 to core best cooked in butter next, 81
50 122 to core
mussels blanched and shucked* 62 144 10 65 149 10 68 154 7 cook in its own juice
oysters shucked 45 113 10 48 118 10 52 126 7 cook in its own juice
60 140 10 65 149 5 siphon only
razor clams blanched and shucked* 45 113 10
scallops whole 42 108 to core 50 122 to core 54 129 to core
shrimp peeled 48 118 to core 60 140 7 80 176 4
(prawns)
54 129 to core
from page 3·103 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
SOUS VIDE MUSSELS Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
250g 100%
Live mussels, rinsed CD Vacuum seal.
and beards removed 28% 0 Cook in boiling water for 3 min.
20%
Shallots, thinly sliced 70g 20% ® Chil l in ice-water bath.
50g 2% @ Shuck, reserving mussels and juice.
Fennel, thinly sliced 50g 1% ® Strain juice, and reserve.
White wine (dry) 5g ® Combin e mussels with reserved juice and remaining ingredients.
Pastis (or Ouzo) 2g
0 Vacuum seal.
Preserved lemon zest, 0 .5 g
minced ® Cook mussels so us vide in 65 oc / 149 °Fbath for12 min.
see page 174 ® Serve warm with toasted garlic bread .
Bay leaf 0.2 %
from page 5·154
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 79
19TH-CENTURY-STYLE LOBSTER WITH SHERRY AND COCOA Yields 450 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM OL IVIER ROELLINGER
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
17%
Lobster shells and 50 g CD Saute together until golden, about 7 min.
trimmings 17%
0 Deglaze pan w ith shells.
Shallot, minced 50 g B.5%
® Reduce stock mixture to 90 g, and remove from heat.
Neutral oil 25 g 50% @ Wh isk into stock reduction.
25% ® Cover, and steep forlO min .
Shellfish stock 150g 0.3% ® Stra in.
see page6 0 .25%
0.15% 0 Warm infused reduction, and blend butter in until fully emu lsified .
Amontillado sherry 75g 0.1%
0.05% ® Season sauce, and reserve warm.
Chervil tips lg 0.03%
® Vacuum seal individually with 20 g of butter each.
Coriander seeds, toasted O.B g 6 .7%
@ Cook so us vide in 51 oc I 124 oF bath to core temperature of 50 oc l 122 °F, about 20 min.
Annatto powder 0.5g 100%
@ Season.
Tarragon leaves 0 .3g 27% @ Garnish with mango and sauce.
Vanilla seeds and pulp 0 .2g 27%
Unsweetened cocoa 0.1 g
powder
Unsalted butter, cubed 20g
Lime juice to taste
Lime zest to taste
Salt to taste
Sherry vinegar to taste
Lobster tails, shelled 300g
(four 75 g tails)
Unsalted butter BOg
Salt to taste
Green mango, brunoise BOg
from page 5·154
SHRIMP COCKTAIL INSPIRED BY GRANT ACHATZ Yields 280 g (four portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
300g 100%
Raspberry gazpacho CD Disperse gelatin into 75 g of gazpacho.
see page33 6g 2% 0 Bring to boil to fully hydrate, and whisk into remainder of gazpacho base.
® Cast onto nonstick baking sheet, 2 mm I 1/16 in th ick .
160 Bloom gelatin 67%
@ Freeze completely, and cut into 3.75 em l lY2 in rectangles. Reserve frozen until use .
Spot prawn tails, peeled 200g 10% ® Vacuum seal together, and cook in 60 oc I 140 °Fbath for 7 min.
(about B) 1% ® Cool completely and remove from bag.
0.7%
Extra-virgin olive oil 30g 2% 0 Reserve refrigerated until use.
2%
Garlic clove, crushed 3g 2% ® Align two prawns down center of each p late .
® Season w ith salt, and garnish with celery, piquillo, o lives, and horseradish as des ired.
Tarragon sprigs 2g @ Lay frozen sheet over prawns and garnish, and allow to thaw and drape over other
Celery, peeled, brunoise 6g components of dish, about 5 min, before serving.
Piquillo pepper, brunoise 6g
Green olives, thinly sliced 6g
Horseradish, fine ly grated to taste
Salt to taste
from page 3·107)
8 0 VOLU ME 6 ·K I TC HE N MAN UAL
OYSTER ESCABECHE Yields 12 pieces
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
12 oysters
Virginica oysters, 100% CD Shuck and clean oysters well.
or similar 53% 0 Vacuum seal oysters, and then poach so us vide in
27%
Extra virgin olive oil 45g 45 "CI 113 "Fbath for 10 min.
lime juice 24g
Sweet onions, finely 12g ® Cool in ice-water bath, and refrigerate.
minced
White wine vinegar 6g @) Combine to make escabeche.
Bird's eye chil i, thinly 0.8g ® Marinate oysters in esca beche, refrigerated, for
sliced
Bay leaf, julienne 0.2g 45 min.
Salt to taste
from page 5·206 13%
1.8%
0.4%
STEAMED LIVE SPOT PRAWN Yields 12 prawns
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
live spot prawns 12 prawns
CD Steam at 90 "CI 195 "Fwith 100% relative humidity
for 3 min. Alternat ively, vacuum seal in singl e even
layer, and cook so us vide in 45 "CI 114 "Fbath for
20 min.
0 Shock in ice-water bath.
® Peel a nd refrigerate until use.
from page 5·183
POACHED LOBSTER TAIL Yields240 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Lobster tails 240 g (four tails) 100% CD Vacuum seal together.
Carotene butter or 0 Cook so us vide in 52 "C1 125 "Fbath to core
unsalted butter 100 g 42%
temperature of 51 "C I 123 "F, abo ut10 min.
see page40 ® Rest cooked lobster for 2 min, and then sear each side
Salt to taste for 10 s to tighten fl es h.
100g @) Cut each ta il into three equal me d a llions, and season.
Coconut-lobster,
emulsion, warmed ® Season meda llions, and serve with em ulsion.
see page 319 42 %
from page 5·187
M EAT A ND SEA FO OD 81
TOUGH MEATS, POULTRY, AND SHELLFISH
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Poultry
Pressure-cook
- - - - -C-oo-k s-o u-s v-ide- - - - - at1 bar /15 psi
Tender and juicy (gauge)
Ingredient (°C) (°F) (h) (°C) (h) (min) Note See page
119, 5·113
chicken leg and thigh 64 147 ll/2 68 154 3 15
below,
62 144 15 105
5·81
chicken wing 62 144 12 72 162 8 next
duck leg 60 140 48 62 144 18 35 best cured before cooking 5·125, 72
62 144 12 68 154 8 3·174
204,103
duck tongue 88 190 5 n/a 25 make sure to debone while still hot
guinea hen leg 60 140 4 n/a best marinated in yogurt or other
tenderizing solution before cooking
pigeon leg 65 149 3 68 154 7 cure with confit mix 2 h before cooking
quail leg 60 140 12 68 154 3
turkey leg 62 144 8 65 149 2 inject with 10% by weight of7% brine
turkey wing 58 136 12 62 144 18 brine before cooking
from page 3·108 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
SOUS VIDE DUCK CONFIT PAVE Yields 850 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Salt 200g 24.5% [) Combine.
Allspice berries lOg 1.2%
Thyme 8g 1% 0 Grind coarsely to form rub.
Garlic, thinly sliced 5g 0.6%
Star anise 1.9g 0.23% ® Coat duck legs with rub .
Rosemary lg 0.12% @ Cure in refrigerator for 6 h.
Bay leaves 0 .9 g 0.11%
Black pepper 0.8g 0.1% ® Rinse legs, and pat dry on paper towel-lined tray.
Coriander seeds 0 .8 g 0.1% ® Dust meat side of cured duck legs with Act iva.
0 range zest, grated 0 .1 g 0.01% 0 Pack together, with skin sides facing out, in mold, 10 em by 20 em I 4 in by 8 in, and 5 em I 2 in
Duck legs, boneless 825g 100%
deep.
Activa RM 8g 1%
(7%)*
from page 5·82 ® Vacuum seal.
® Cook sous vide in 60 oc I 140 °Fbath for 48 h.
@ Pan fry duck con fit (or use griddle), skin sides only, until golden and crisp.
@ Carve into slices 1.5 em I 3,4 in thick.
*(%oftotal weight ofcured duck legs)
82 VOLUME 6 ·KITCH EN MANUAL
SOUS VIDE GUINEA HEN Yields250 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
50 g 33% @ Combine.
Live culture Greek-style 16 .5%
strained yogurt 25 g 100% 0 Vacuum seal25 g of yogurt mixture with breasts.
150 g 100%
Garlic, thinly sliced ® Vacuum seal remaining 25 g of yogurt mixture with thighs.
150 g 67%
Guinea hen breasts, 0 Marinate breasts and thighs, refrigerated, for 5 h.
boneless and skinless ® Cook thighs so us vide in 62 ·c I 144 "Fbath for 5 h.
® Cook breasts sous vide in 55 ·c 1 131 "F bath to core temperature of 54 ·c 1 129 "F, about
Guinea hen thighs,
boneless and skinless 30 min. Hold breasts at temperature for12 min to ensure proper pas teurization.
Tagine base, warmed lOOg 0 Slice guinea hen into pieces 1 em I% in thick.
see page 39 ® Serve with guinea hen.
from page 5·137
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Shellfish
Cook sous vide Pressure-cook
at1 bar / 15 psi
Barely cooked Firm Tender braised (gauge)
Ingredient (•c) (• F) (min) (•c) ("F) (min) (•c) (• F) (h) (min) Note See page
abalone next
octopus 45 113 15 88 190 8 h 100 212 12 35 85
nl a 80 176 3h 85 185 4 25 freezing and thawing before 314
cooking can increase
5·239
tenderness next
geoduck 50 122 30 65 149 7 65 15 the siphon is quite firm; the
belly meat is far more tender
snail n/ a 65 149 15 68 154 5 20
squid and 50 122 10 65 149 5 65 149 4
cuttlefish 30 apply same temperatures for
from page 3·108 cooking sea cucumbers
(temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
The times and temperatures given for "barely
cooked" will not paste urize the food; other time-
temperature comb in ations indicated will. See page
1-190 for more food safety information.
SOUS VIDE BRAISED SNAILS YieldsSSO g
83
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
150%
White chicken stock 600g 0 Vacuum seal together.
100% 0 Cook so us vide in 68 •c 1 154 "Fbath for 5 h.
see page 11
50% ® Drain, and reserve juices.
Burgundy snails 400g
(canned), cleaned 45% 0 Pick out snail meat, and discard vegetables and aromatics.
3.75%
Carrots, peeled and thinly 200g 0 .4% ® Vacuum seal snails with reserved juices, and refrigerate until use.
sliced 0.1 %
37.5% ® To serve, reheat snails in 58 •c I 136 "Fbath for about 20 min.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 180g
0 Melt in pot over low heat and stir in snails.
Salt 15g
Thyme l.Sg
Bay leaf 0.4g
Montpellier butter 150g
(optional)
see page 298
from page 5·243
MEAT AND SEAFOOD
SQUID SICILIAN LIFEGUARD-STYLE INSPIRED BY MARIO BATALI Yields550 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Garlic, thinly sliced 10 g 5%
Salt 4g 2% CD Co mbin e to make c ure.
Le mon zest 3g 1. 5%
Squid tubes, cut vertically 200 g 100% 0 Spread cure over surface of sq uid sheets.
to make sheets and surface membranes peele d
5% ® Vacuum seal, a nd refrigerate forl5 min.
Extra-virgin olive oil lOg 37.5%
Tomato co nfit, pureed 0 Brush off cure, a nd cut sheets into thin strips.
see page 179 75g 30%
Israe li couscous, boiled in 2% brin e ® Vacuum sea l strips with oil, a nd reserve.
until al dente, a nd then coo le d 60g ® Combine, and heat until just warmed through.
Pine nuts, toasted
Dry currants 18 g 0 Reserve tomato con fit mixture.
Caper berries, thinly sliced 15g ® Cook sq uid st rips so us vide in 65 oc I 149 oF bath for 4 min.
Tomato water lO g
see page 40 150g 9% ® Season tomato water ge nerous ly.
Red wine vinegar 7.5%
Salt to taste 5%
Scallions, whites only, fine julienne to taste 75%
Chili o il JOg
see page29 20g 15% @ Spoon reserved warm tomato con fit mixture into bottom of bowls.
10 % @ Top with squid strips, and garn ish w ith sca lli ons and ch ili oi l.
from page 3·113 @ Pour seasoned tomato water around each portion.
ABALONE AND FOIE GRAS SHABU-SHABU WITH YUBA AND ENOKI Yields 900 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Abalone 120 g 100%
CD Steam at 100 oc I 212 °Fforl2 h. Alternative ly, vacuum sea l and cook so us vide in 90 oc I 194 °F
Raw foie gras 120 g 100%
bath fo rl 6 h.
Soy yuba 120g 100%
see page249 50% 0 Reserve.
66.6% ® Cut into sl ices 3 mm I Ya in thick.
Enoki mushroom 60g 250% 0 Refrigerate.
58%
Pea vines BOg 292% ® Measure and reserve.
Sweet onions, thinly sliced 300 g 100% ® Cut from stem into individual mushrooms.
41. 7%
Re nd e red foie gras fat 70 g 20% 0 Select tender leaves and tips, and refrigerate.
17%
Hon dashi 350 g 66.7% ® Sweat onio ns unti l very tender, about 30 min .
see page 15
® Deglaze o ni ons, and simmer for 30 min to make shabu shabu broth.
Soy sauce 120g @ Strain.
Mirin 50g @ Centrifuge at 27,500g for 1 h.
Agave syrup 24g @ Cool a nd refrigerate.
Ri ce vinegar 20g @ Combine to make tosazu (dipp ing sauce).
Foie gras fat or unsalted BOg @ Refrigerate.
butter
@ Bring broth to boi l, and maintain at simmer in shabu shabu pot over portable gas or e lectric
stove.
@ Warm tosazu (dipping sa uce), and blend in fo ie gras fat to form loose e mulsi o n.
® Serve emu lsion on sid e, and invite guests to dip raw ingred ients into warm broth for desired
doneness and then briefly into tosazu.
® Broth is shared among diners after raw ingredients have been eaten.
from page 5·203
84 VO LUM E 6 ·KITC HE N MAN UAL
RAZOR CLAM WITH SAUCE VERTE INSPIRED BY AL I CE WATERS Yields 550 g (eight portions)
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Ramp bulbs lOOg 20%
(or scallion whites) CD Vacuum seal.
150g 30% 0 Cook in boiling water until tender, about 5 min.
Ramp greens
(or scallion greens) 5g 1% ® Coo l in so us vide bag placed in ice-water bath.
Chives 4g 0.8%
Chervil 3.5 g 0.7% 0 Drain and reserve.
Basil 2 .2g 0.4%
Mint 28g 5.5% ® Blanch greens indi vidua lly in boiling water until te nd e r.
Caper berries 25g 5% ® Shock in ice water.
Olive oil lOg 2%
Dijon mustard lO g 2% 0 Pat dry, a nd reserve.
White wine vinegar to taste
Salt 10% ® Puree with bu lbs and blanched greens unt il smooth, to make sauce verte.
Marcon a a lm o nds, so g
toasted ® Season sauce verte, and reserve in refrigerator.
Razor clams @ Pul se in food processor to crumb-size particles, and reserve.
White wine (dry)
Borage blossoms SOOg 100% @ Vacuum sea l together.
(option al) 40g 8%
as needed @ Steam or boil at 100 oc I 212 oFfor 3 min .
from page 3·112
@ Chill, in bag, in ice-water bath.
@ Remove from bag, and strain clam cook ing juices through fine sieve lined with coffee filter,
reservingjuices.
@ Remove clams fro m she ll s.
@ Clean meat, and vacuum sea l w ith reserved juices.
@ Cook sous vide in 60 oc l 140 °Fbath for 10 min .
@ Chi ll so us vide bag in ice-wate r bath .
@ To serve, drain, reserving clams and juice separately.
@ Sli ce clams thinly.
® W hi sk some reserved jui ce into sa uce verte, to taste.
@ Garn ish clams w ith sauce verte and a lm ond crumbs.
SOUS VIDE OCTOPUS Yields450 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Octopus legs 100%
SOOg CD Blanch for 30 s to remove slime.
(eight legs) 10% 0 Coo l in ice-water bath.
Extra virgin ol ive oi l 50g ® Vacuum sea l individually.
Salt to taste
0 Coo k so us vide in 85 oc I 185 °Fbath for 4 h.
® Coo l in bag, in ice-water bath.
® Peel sk in off four octopus legs, leaving sk in s on remaining fo ur legs.
0 Vacuum sea l peeled octopus legs with 25 g of o il.
® Reserve remaining 25 g of oil.
® Warm pee led octopus in bag, in 60 °Ci l40 °Fbath, forl5 min.
@ Brush reserved o il o nto skins of unpeeled octopus legs.
@ Grill unpeeled octopus legs on gridd le or over coals until deeply charred, about 2 min. Season
a ll legs w ith sa lt.
from page 5·194
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 85
COOKING TOUGH CUTS 0 Cook so us vide for the time indicated.
CD Se lect an ingredient and target temperature from the table below. ® Serve immediately, or chil l, and then refrigerate until needed. Reheat in a
0 If cooking so us vide, set a water bath to the temperature indicated for the bath set to the cooking temperature.
desired texture. If pressure cooking, set the gauge pressure to 1 bar I ® Optionally, sear the food . See see page 2·270 for searing methods.
15 psi, and cook for the time indicated, and then skip to step 5. 0 Season as des ired.
® Vacuum sea l the food together with any flavorings, fats, or liquids.
Best Bets for Cooking Tough Cuts
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -C-o-o-k-s-o-u-s -v-i d-e- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Pressure- a r 1
cook at 1 b
Firm, steak-like Tender, yielding Tender, flaky Very flaky 15 psi (gauge)
See
Ingredient (•C) (• F) (h) (•c) (•F) (h) (•c) (• F) (h) (•c) (•F) (h) (min) Note page
5·55
beef cheek 58 136 72 62 144 72 68 154 36 80 176 12 60 remove connective tissue 5·42
88
beef short 56 133 72 58 136 72 60 140 72 88 190 7 50 texture is best when 5-49
rib, bone in carved just before serving
5·49
beef brisket 58 136 72 60 140 72 63 145 72 70 158 72 use the fattier, thick end of 5·89
the brisket called the nose 88
beef flatiron 52 126 24 55 131 12 62 144 48 88 190 5 remove central muscle 5·101
55 131 48 sheath, then apply Activa 89
flank steak 50 122 3 55 131 12 62 144 36 88 190 7 122
88
beef hanger 50 122 2 55 131 12 62 144 36 88 190 6 169
steak 55 131 48
3·216
oxtail n/ a 60 140 100 65 149 48 70 158 24 70
5·60
lamb shank 58 136 48 62 144 48 85 185 5 88 190 5 60
lamb 56 133 48 62 144 48 65 149 24 85 185 5 40 coat meat with 5.0% olive
shoulder oil and 0.1% thyme to
prevent stronger lamb
notes from developing
pork belly 60 140 72 65 149 36 70 158 18 88 190 8 50 for firm texture, cure with
pink brine before cooking
pork 54 129 48 60 140 72 65 149 36 84 183 4 60 many individual muscles
can be treated like tender
shoulder or cuts
fresh ham
pork cheek, n/a 65 149 38 68 154 48 85 185 5 35
fat cap on
pork ribs n/a 60 140 48 65 149 48 75 167 7
pork trotter n/ a n/ a n/a 85 185 12 120
and hock
suckling pig n/ a 60 140 36 65 149 24 80 176 8 60
shoulder
and leg
rabbit n/ a 60 140 4 66 151 1 85 185 1 hotter-than-core cooking
shoulder may be required for
younge r an im als
veal breast 54 129 to core 62 144 5 68 154 24 85 185 6 75 for steak-l ike texture, use
individual breast muscles;
remove fat and sinew
veal shank n/ a 60 140 72 62 144 72 85 185 8 90 cook veal shanks whole
from page 3·1 09 (temperatures in bold are those that we prefer)
86 VOLUME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
SUCKLING PIG SHOULDER WITH SHALLOT AND ORANGE SAUCE Yields 750 g (four portions)
ADAPTED FROM JOAN ROCA
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Suckling pig shoulders 500g 100%
(one shoulder) CD Vacuum seal individually.
Extra-virgin olive oil 60g 12 % 0 Cook so us vide in 65 ' C I 149 ' Fbath for 24 h.
Sugar 20g 4% 0 Cook in small pot until dark caramel forms .
Brown pork stock 150g 30%
see page 6 ® Deglaze caramel.
Orange juice, freshly 150g 30% ® Reduce to 150 g.
squeezed and strained
Shallots, peeled and 400g 80% ® Add to orange sauce.
halved (about eight 2%
small ha lves) 0 Simmer until tender, about 30 min .
Red wine vinegar
Cloves, finely ground lOg ® Season orange sauce and shallots.
Salt to taste
Frying oil to taste ® De bone warm pork shoulders, leaving skins on and keeping structures intact.
as needed
Elderflowers eight small tufts @ Fry, skin side down only, in thin film of oil, until skin is crisp, about 4 min.
@ Cut each shoulder in half.
@ Distribute among four plates.
Flaky sea salt to taste @ Garnish with shallots, orange sauce, and elderflower tufts.
from page 3·110) @ Season pork shoulder and shallots.
CRISPY DUCK TONGUES Yields 65 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Water 250g 167%
Duck tongues 150 g 100% CD Vacuum seal.
Salt 5g 3% 0 Cook so us vide in 88 ' C1 190 ' Fbath for 5 h.
0 Remove from bag, and pull out central bone from each tongue while warm .
Frying oil as needed
® Dehydrate tongues in 50 ' C1 120 ' Foven until completely dry, about 2 h.
® Heat oil for duck tongues to 205 ' CI 400 ' F.
® Deep-fry duck tongues until crispy and puffed, about 1 min.
0 Drain on paper towels, and season with salt.
from page 5·84
BEEF SHANK RILLETTE Yields 365 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Beef shank, boneless 200g 100%
CD Cook so us vide in 85 ' C I 185 ' Fbath for 5 h.
White beefstock, cold 125 g 62.5% 0 Cool quickly in ice-water bath. Shred meat.
see page 6 1.5g 0 Disperse agar and gelatin into stock.
160 Bloom gelatin 0.75% ® Boil for 3 min to fully hydrate.
(7.2%)* ® Refrigerate until firmly set.
Agar 1.15g ® Puree until fluid.
0 .58%
Rendered beefsuet 40g (0.7%)* 0 Heat fat until liquid is warm, but not hot.
20%
® Blend into stock fluid gel until fully emulsified.
® Fold in shredded meat .
Black pepper to taste @ Season meat mixture generously, and vacuum seal.
Salt to taste
from page 5·52 @ Reheat in 50 ' CI 122 ' Fbath for 20 min, or refrigerate until use .
*(%oftotal weightofbeefstock and beefsuet)
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 87
SOUS VIDE PORK BELLY Yields 1.6 kg
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
100%
Whole pork belly, on bone 2.4 kg 10 % CD Inject brine in amount equal to 10% of pork belly weight.
0 Vacuum sea l in remaining brine for 3d.
Pink brine 480g 33%
see page lOl ® Drain brine from bag, and reseal pork belly.
Water 800g 0 Refrigerate for 2 d before cooking to diffuse sa lt through meat.
Frying oil as needed ® Remove meat from bag, and drain.
from page 5·102 ® Vacuum sea l pork belly with water.
0 Cook so us vide in 62 •c I 144 ' Fbath for 40 h.
® Chill in ice-water bath until firm.
® Remove belly from bag, and discard gell ed cooking juices.
@ Carve belly from ribs, and remove skin. Discard bones and skin.
@ Portion belly in to square blocks of 150 g each.
@ Vacuum seal each portion individual ly.
@ Refrigerate.
@ To serve, reheat bagged pork belly portions in 62 •c I 144 ' F bath, abo ut 15 min.
@ Remove pork be ll y portions from bag, and sear, fat side on ly, until go ld en, about 2 min.
BRAISED LAMB SHOULDER Yieldssoog
PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING
100% CD Vacuum seal.
Lamb shoulder, boneless SOOg 20% 0 Cook so us vide in 56 •c I 133 ' F bath for 48 h.
Brown lamb stock 100g 10% ® Slice or shred as desired, or coo l bagged shoulder in ice-water bath and refrigerate until use.
see page 6 1.8%
0.08% 0 Season.
Rendered duck fat 50g
Garlic, thinly sliced 9g
Thyme 0.4g
Salt to taste
from page 5·83
BEEF BRISKET QUANTITY SCALING YieldsSOO g
700g 100%
INGREDIENT PROCEDURE
Beef brisket 100g 14%
CD Smoke at 65 •c I 149 ' Fwith 65% relative humidity (wet-bulb temperature should be 55 •c I
Kansas City barbecue
sauce 131 ' F) for 7 h.
see page220
from page 5·79 0 Vacuum seal.
® Cook so us vide in 63 •c I 146 ' F bath for 72 h.
0 Trim off extra fat.
® Slice meat to serve.
® Brush on sli ced meat.
PORK RIBS QUANTITY SCALING YieldsSOO g
1.2 kg 100%
INGREDIENT PROCEDURE
Pork spare ribs, 30g 2.5%
membrane removed CD Smoke at 65 ' CI149 ' Fwith 60% relative humidity (wet-bulb temperature 55 ' C I 131 ' F) for7 h.
0 Vacuum seal.
Dry rub,
from above ® Cook so us vide in 60 •c I 140 ' Fbath for 48 h.
from page 5·78 0 Rub onto ribs just before serv ing.
® Flash with blowtorch, or brown lightly if desired.
88 VO LU ME 6 ·KITCHEN MANUAL
PULLED PORK SHOULDER Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
300g 100%
Pork sho uld er, skin on, CD Smoke at 65 'C 1 149 ' Fw ith 60% relative humidi ty (wet-bu lb temperature at 55 'CI 131 ' F)
boneless
for 7 h.
Barbecue sauce 300g 100%
0 Vacuum sea l.
see page 4·49 ® Cook so us vide in 65 ' CI 150 ' F bath for 72 h.
0 Pull meat apart with two forks, a nd discard pieces offat.
from page 5·78
® Mix into p ull ed meat.
BRAISED VEAL FORESHANK Yields500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Veal fores ha nk
Water 1 kg (o ne w ho le) 100% CD Vacuum sea l togethe r.
0 Coo k so us vid e in 62 ' CI 144 ' F bath for 72 h.
125 g 12.5%
® Remove foreshank fro m bag, and coo l in ice-wate r bath for 30 min .
Squash glaze 100 g 12.5%
to taste 0 Div ide foreshank into four e qual portions, rese rving cook ing jui ces and bones separate ly.
see page 39
® Vacuum sea l meat portions indi vidu a lly, and refrige rate.
Flaky sea sa lt ® Refri gerate cooki ng jui ces for making glaze, and reserve bones for making custa rd.
from page 5·62 0 Reheat meat portions in 62 ' CI 144 ' F bath for 25 min.
® Brush with glaze, a nd seaso n w ith sea sa lt.
AMERICAN WAGYU BEEF CHEEK vields450g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
500g 100%
Wagyu beef cheeks, CD Vacuum sea l together.
trimmed of sinew and 75 g 15% 0 Coo k so us vid e in 62 ' CI 144 ' F bath for 72 h.
silve rsk in 25 g 5%
® Reduce to 75 g to make glaze, and reserve warm.
Goulash broth,
0 Remove beef cheeks from bag a nd cut into sli ces 1 em I V2 in th ick.
see page19
® Brush sli ces with wa rm glaze .
Neutral o il ® Season a nd serve.
Goulash broth, 400 g 80%
see page 19
Flaky sa lt to taste
fro m page 5·57
RARE FLATIRON STEAK Yi e lds 500 g
INGREDIENT QUANTITY SCALING PROCEDURE
Flatiron stea k 500g 100%
Activa RM or GS as needed CD Butterfly steak to remove tendon .
0 Dust eac h piece evenly with thin layer of Activa.
Ne utra l oil as needed
Salt to taste ® Fo ld steak closed.
from page 5·50
0 Vacuum seal together.
® Refrigerate for at least 6 h to e nsure bo nding.
® Cook so us vid e in 55 ' CI 131 ' Fbath for12 h.
0 Sear stea k until just go ld en, abo ut 30 s. Slice into portions 1em I% in thi ck, a nd season with
sa lt.
MEAT AND SEAFOOD 89
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Volume 6 - Kitchen Manual
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